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The Rocky Mountaineer
Great American Railroads
Great American Railroads
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After an appetizing lunch with wine, Gold Leaf guests relax in comfortable seats and enjoy the scenery on Canada’s Rocky Mountaineer. Photo courtesy Pat Woods.
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Rocky Mountaineer Rail Fulfills Vacation Dream By Pat Woods
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As the Rocky Mountaineer approaches Banff, more snowy peaks become visible.
xcitement rippled through the Vancouver station as smiling passengers arrived to board the highly acclaimed daylight luxury train through Western Canada’s scenic Rocky Mountains. As the guests sipped early morning coffee, tea and juice, a pianist played cheery railroad tunes. When the pianist played his final note, a bagpiper in full Scottish regalia drew everyone’s attention. Rocky Mountaineer officials introduced themselves and showed eager guests to their assigned train cars. As husband Rob and I began the 595-mile journey, the 10 • Byways
Fraser River sparkled in the morning sun. Following the river, the sleek train passed through the fertile agricultural valley, tiny British Columbia towns and the scenic Fraser Canyon. Fir, aspen, maple and other hardwood trees grew a few feet from our window. Crossing the South Thompson River, we caught a glimpse of snow-capped Mount Baker. The sleek eastbound train crossed bridges, passed cascading waterfalls and navigated through scenic canyons and narrow tunnels in five mountain ranges. Annie, our gregarious car hostess, shared fascinating
railroad lore, described people and events that shaped Western Canada’s history and pointed out scenic wonders, archaeological features, flora and fauna. Near Ashcroft -- one of the driest places in BC -- we saw unique hoodoo rock formations. Because Rocky Mountaineer shares tracks with freight trains, the engineer occasionally pulled onto a siding to enable a long freight train to pass. We learned long freight trains can have 100 to 300 cars! The train stopped for photos at the famous Hell’s Gate Canyon, known for its steep gorge and intimidating Fraser River whitewater. We watched as sightseeing gondola cars carried land passengers to the bottom of the steep canyon. Hell’s Gate also has a salmon ladder Gold Leaf lunches provide a delicious dessert finale. that helps the spawning fish reach their destination. urged guests to watch for Bald Eagles in dead trees. Watching the spectacular scenery -- rushing rivers, “Bald eagles can have a 5-foot wingspan,” she said. towering cliffs, and thousands of acres of lush green Along with other Gold Leaf guests, we descended a forests -- was relaxing and refreshing. Bi-level Gold Leaf spiral staircase to dining car tables clad in white linen. dome cars provide panoramic views of rugged canyons, Talented on-board chefs prepared gourmet breakfasts snow-capped mountain peaks, rushing rivers, and lush and lunches using fresh local ingredients. Breakfast mountain meadows where cattle, horses, and sheep began with elegantly presented fruit and bakery, folgraze. lowed by choices of omelets, pancakes, or lighter fare. Amid the splendid scenery, guests were thrilled with We substituted extra fruit for bacon and sausage with our sightings of deer, mountain sheep, beavers, bald eagles, cheese omelets. and osprey and an occasional bear or moose. Annie With the scenery just 3 to 4 feet away, dining car meals are a joy! Photos courtesy Pat Woods.
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The train stopped for photos at the famous Hell’s Gate Canyon, known for its steep gorge and intimidating Fraser River whitewater. Photo courtesy Pat Woods.
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The train passes lush green meadows with grazing cattle, horses and sheep. Photos courtesy Pat Woods
With the scenery as close as four feet, dining car meals are a visual and gastronomical delight. Lunch started with soup or salad followed by delicious meat, fish or vegetarian entrees and finished with a decadent dessert. Seated with a congenial Aussie couple, we compared notes on travel, vacation time and tipping policies in our respective countries. In British Columbia’s beautiful Okanagan Valley, we passed ginseng farms and lavender fields. Throughout the journey, cordial car hostesses served premium B.C. and Alberta wines, spirits, beer, cheese, crackers and scones. The Gold Leaf bar opened at 9:30, and adult beverages flowed freely. Because our May 11 trip was early in the season, our train had 21 cars carrying 327 guests. During the busy summer months, Rocky Mountaineer trains can have up to 40 cars. The first bighorn sheep sighting occurred as we approached Kamloops, a city of 85,000 where highways intersect. Within the next hour, alert guests spotted four more small flocks of sure-footed bighorns eating sagebrush. Annie said the word Kamloops means “Meeting of the waters.” On the First Passage to the West route, guests overnight at Kamloops hotels. Luggage magically appeared in rooms and was collected by the train crew the following morning, eliminating a major hassle. On the second day, Annie pointed out snow sheds that shield the train from avalanches. The Rocky Mountaineer navigated two unique Spiral Tunnels, remarkable feats of engineering. Wildlife sightings and massive snow-covered peaks became more common as we approached Banff. “Bear on the right!” a male Aussie voice shouted as heads swiveled and hands fumbled with cameras and phones. 14 • Byways
Near Lake Louise, we crossed the Continental Divide, the highest point of our journey at 5,332 feet where all rivers to the east flow toward the Atlantic, while rivers to the west make their way to the Pacific. One of many of bridges on the 595mile First Passage to the West route of the Rocky Mountaineer.
The rail portion of our eastbound trip ended in Banff, a pretty mountain town where streets are named after wildlife that roams freely. After saying a reluctant goodbye to our train hosts, we overnighted at the beautiful Timberline Resort. In the morning a Brewster bus drove us to the Calgary airport. From reservations to Calgary airport transfer, every segment of our trip was smoothly orchestrated by seasoned Rocky Mountaineer staffers.
If you go Rocky Mountaineer offers five routes and 45 vacation packages with a plethora of add-on options. Guests can overnight at historic Fairmont Hotels in Seattle, Vancouver, Banff, Lake Louise, Jasper and Calgary. Each conjures up images of a grand era—and provides an indoor pool and spa to relax tired muscles. Rocky Mountaineer journeys originate in Vancouver (eastbound) or Calgary (westbound). Guests can choose overnights and tours in Banff, Lake Louise, and Jasper, Alberta; Victoria, Vancouver and Whistler, British Columbia; and Seattle, Washington. Rocky Mountaineer offers three service levels. Many guests take the Rocky Mountaineer train journey before or after an Alaska cruise.
To plan your trip of a lifetime, call 800-665-7245 or visit www.rockymountaineer.com.
Where to stay Rocky Mountaineer partners with Fairmont Hotels. This upscale hotelier operates three downtown Vancouver locations. All three are within walking distance of each other, and each is distinctively different: the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver honors its railroad roots; Fairmont Waterfront is connected to the cruise ship terminal and is known for its organic rooftop gardens and apiaries; the Fairmont Pacific Rim is new and edgy. www.Fairmonthotels.com. Our pre-train stay on the Gold floor of Fairmont Vancouver Hotel was a joy with a daily deluxe European breakfast, concierge service, daytime snacks, free WIFI. About the Author. A widely published travel writer, Pat Woods is an Arizona-based train aficionado who would love to see train service between Phoenix and West Coast cities. You can see more of her work at: www.clippings.me/users/patwoods
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Rocky Mountains Highs & Lows on the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad By Bill Graves 16 • Byways
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he Cumbres & Toltec was built in 1880 as part of the Rio Grande’s San Juan Extension of the Denver & Rio Grande Western that originally served the silver mines in the mountains of southwestern Colorado. It was built with narrow-gauge track of 3 feet between the rails, instead of the standard-gauge 4 feet, 81⁄2 inches. The main reason was that sharper turns could be laid with the narrower gauge, important when navigating along mountain ridges. After the demand for silver tanked around the turn of the century, the railroad struggled. Good times in the 1920s allowed for the purchase of “modern” steam engines that are still in use here. Except for a respite during World War II, the Cumbres & Toltec never recovered from the Depression. Most narrow-gauge lines in the Rocky Mountains were scrapped in the ’50s. Unfortunately, in 1969 the use of steam locomotives in general freight service ended in this country. Between Chama and Durango, part of the main line’s abandoned track was dismantled. But thanks to those supporters with the enchantment of trains, the scenic portion of the line was saved. In 1970, the states of Colorado and New Mexico jointly bought the track and sideline structures from Antonito to Chama, nine steam locomotives, more than 130 freight and work cars, the yards and maintenance facility, all for $547,120. The following year the new railroad began hauling passengers. 18 • Byways
From sagebrush to the Rocky Mountains on the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad. Photos courtesy Bill Graves.
Today, the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad has four operating coal red and steam-operated locomotives (and they hope to get a fifth one running!) and offers one of the great scenic rides of the Rockies on America’s longest and highest narrow-gauge railroad. Climbing to an elevation of 10,015 feet at one point, passengers are treated to views of steep gorges, sheer cliffs, broad valleys and a few cattle ranches. Around Antonito, the train passes through a pinyon-juniper forest and across desert plains of sagebrush. The trains snake along the Colorado/New Mexico border, moving at 20 to 25 mph. They pass over high trestles across rivers, through tunnels under mountains and make some “whiplash” turns as they loop back on themselves to gain or lose elevation. Each train burns about 4 tons of coal each day. Osier, on the Colorado side at 9,637 feet elevation, is roughly the halfway point. It was once a stagecoach stop and a small railroad town. The trains meet here at lunchtime. In the station’s dining hall hot meals are served upstairs -- it reminded me of a military chow line -- with a salad bar downstairs. Since many of you may have not ridden this train, allow me to suggest the best way to do it. Drive to Chama, it’s 106 miles north of Santa Fe on U.S. Route 84. At 8:30 a.m., take the railroad’s bus, included with your train ticket, to Antonito. Board the train there and ride back to Chama. After six hours of riding the rails, when you get back to Chama, you are “home” and can
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then relax and think back on your day of beautiful For information on the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad: scenery and the grandeur of the Rocky Mountains. 888-CUMBRES (286-2737) Another advantage of taking the westbound train from Chama, New Mexico, Depot: 575-756-2151 Antonito, Antonito is that you are saving the best for last. The high Colorado, Depot: 719-376-5488. www.cumbrestoltec.com mesa country coming out of Antonito has its own spartan beauty. But when you get back on the train after lunch, you are in the mountains with views normally reserved for eagles and mountain goats. At Windy Point, one of the most famous places in American railroading, the rails are laid on a rock shelf, carved from the face of a cliff. The train then begins a 4 percent down grade, accentuated by squeaking brakes, into the Rio Chama valley. Chama is a small mountain town: elevation 7,871 feet, population 1,250. The town is there primarily because of the train, but lumber and outdoor recreation contribute to its economy. During the months the train is running (this year’s schedule is May 28 through October 23), all the shops and eateries in town are open by 7 a.m. for those who want breakfast or to shop before the train or bus leaves. After the morning rush, things are pretty quiet in town the rest of the day, “But when we hear the train whistle as it comes down the grade, the town comes alive again.” said a Chama resident. The train pulls in at 4:40 p.m. By 7 p.m., except for a few restaurants that stay open, the town of Chama is closed up. By the evening, the train has been cleaned and is ready for the next day’s scenic ride. The engine has been turned About the Author. Bill Graves is a California based over to the shop crew who keep it going all night. In travel journalist who also writes the Traveling the those dark hours, the engine groans and moans like a Highways & Byways column in Byways. He can be leashed animal. reached at Roadscribe@aol.com.
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