Salt Fish Cakes

By Laura Thomas & Meuriel Georges-Adams

Throughout the Caribbean, salt fish is a well-loved dish prepared in several ways. In the British Virgin Islands, growing up in my family (like many other families), salt fish was always the meal on Good Friday and one of the dishes prepared for Christmas morning breakfast.

When visiting the British Virgin Islands one of the most sought after native cuisines is saltfish, which has been a staple meal in Caribbean households for generations. Once considered a poor man’s food, saltfish has grown into a local delicacy.

The most common fish used to create saltfish is cod. This popular fish has a long and rich history, and has been an important economic commodity since the Viking period. The Norwegians used dried cod during their travels which became the genesis for a dried cod market in southern Europe. This market has lasted for more than 1,000 years, and still is an important part of the Norwegian fish trade.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, cod became a major commodity, in the New World, especially in Massachusetts and Newfoundland, forming triangular trade networks and cross-cultural exchanges. The triangular trade was developed between New England, Africa and the West Indies. The salted dried cod was shipped to Africa where it was used to purchase slaves, who were then transported to the West Indies where they were sold for commodities such as wine, sugar, rum, molasses and tobacco. These commodities were then shipped back to New England, forming the last leg of the triangle.

Usually found in the Atlantic Ocean, cod is not the most attractive fish, however, it is one of the world’s most popular and nutritious fish. It has a mild flavor, low fat content and a dense white flesh that flakes easily. Cod livers are processed to make cod-liver oil, an important source of Vitamin A, Vitamin D and omega-3 fatty acids. When caught cod are salted and dried as a way of preserving it, stemming from the days before refrigeration. Saltfish, which was brought to the Caribbean by the European colonizers, is called bacalao on the Spanishspeaking islands and Morue on the French-speaking islands.

The different variety of saltfish dishes coupled with traditional African food were created by the slaves. During this period, the slave owners were mandated to provide them with salted meats and fish, hence saltfish. The slaves supplemented their food with ground provisions which they grew. These provisions are ground crops such as, sweet potato, dasheen, tania and yams that are grown in many a garden around Tortola. While many of these provisions are imported today, you can still find local families growing them in their gardens or small plots of farmland. Saltfish Gundy, stew salftish, saltfish in Creole sauce, saltfish in butter sauce, saltfish and rice, saltfish cake and pickup saltfish are the different ways that this versatile dish is prepared. Dumplings, fungi, eggplant and sweet potatoes are just some of the starches and ground provisions that are served with saltfish.Pickup saltfish is probably the more interesting recipe because of its name and the fact that it is prepared raw. Just like the other recipes for saltfish it must be presoaked to remove the salt that was used to preserve it. The cod is then separated by using a fork or by picking it apart with your fingers. A little cooking oil, various herbs and spices and local hot pepper are added to make this delicious dish. Pickup saltfish is usually served as an appetizer.

Ask any Virgin Islander who prepares the best saltfish and you will get a variety of answers. As with politics and sports there are debates over who prepares the best saltfish in the B.V.I. Well-known cooks through out the islands are sought out to prepare this delicacy for a variety of events. While many of these cooks may not reveal their secret ingredients they are willing to offer advice to the novice on how to spice up the dish. Some may even share their recipe with those who are willing to learn. No family outing, beach picnic, party or other social gathering menu here in the Virgin Islands would be complete without some variation of saltfish.

One of the best ways to have salt fish done is as a salt fish cake.

Ingredients

1 cup chopped onions 1 cup flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 egg lightly beaten ½ lb salted fish, cooked and flaked 1 large fresh green and red pepper 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 cups of water

Instructions

Finely chop onion and peppers. Combine wet ingredients in a bowl. Combine dry ingredients in bowl. Combine both mixtures in a bowl and stir well Drop by spoon full into hot oil, 2-3 at a time. Brown and serve.

Today, most restaurants and food delis serve salt fish on their breakfast menu or at least twice out of the week on their lunch menu.