The journey continues

It’s a long way across the oceans from Basilaki island to Vancouver, London and Berlin. But not for epic voyager Sanakoli John, who’s on a mission to help save the Pacific and its traditional culture.

The fisherman from Milne Bay was lead sailor six years ago on the first recorded circumnavigation of New Guinea in a traditional sailing canoe.

The 6300-kilometre journey boosted interest in PNG’s ancient culture. News of the 13-month expedition spread internationally and prompted the master seafarer to launch Pasana Group, PNG’s first canoe building school.

As co-founder, Sanakoli was invited to join hundreds of scientists, traditional groups and organisations meeting in Vancouver in February to conserve marine biodiversity and protect the Pacific’s natural and cultural heritage.

“I was so excited when I arrived,” he says. “The first night was very cold. In the morning I put on five shirts and a coat.

“However, it was very inspiring to meet other indigenous leaders. I got new tools to run a group and communicate with other organisations. Everyone wants to start reviving their culture.”

How to protect oceans from deep-sea mining was also a main concern in Vancouver at the International Marine Protected Areas Congress (IMPAC).

Ironically, efforts to wean the world off polluting fossil fuels have raised threats to marine environments and cultures. The demand for undersea minerals sought by battery makers and other technology manufacturers has also increased.

“I talked about our traditional connection with the ocean and how canoes can help youth live in a sustainable way,” says Sanakoli.

From the time he could walk, Sanakoli virtually lived in a sailau – the traditional sailing canoe, used for fishing, transport and the ancient kula trade routes that connect the outer islands of Milne Bay.

He ended up travelling much further after a meeting with Danish explorer, adventurer and filmmaker Thor F. Jensen.

With brother Justin John and friend Job Siyae, the four embarked on their historic voyage, powered only by paddle and wind in a nine-metre canoe.

The Tawali Pasana crew faced high seas, treacherous reefs, capsizes, crocodiles, pirate waters, Indonesian security and even testy ‘sea gods’ before returning in triumph to their Milne Bay starting point.

Then COVID-19 hit. Fuel prices skyrocketed in his maritime province and raised dinghy fares. Sanakoli and Justin saw a need for their people to regain knowledge of building and sailing canoes.

“When you have a canoe, you can go fishing and travel for free to the market,” he says. You can support yourself.”

The canoe school’s growing success led to Sanakoli’s invitation to another conference, after he left Vancouver. Hosted by the prestigious National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, he joined a gathering of traditional Pacific navigators, who shared their ancestral voyaging knowledge.

The journey continued in Berlin at the Te Ara Vaka Moana meeting, held as part of a movement to reactivate knowledge of ancient sea-going vessels and routes.

Sanakoli also reunited with his shipmate, Thor, who is distributing a documentary of their New Guinea voyage to film festivals around the world.

The campaign to save the Pacific will continue back home, says Sanakoli.

“From what I’ve seen and heard, I know we are lucky to still have beautiful reefs in PNG. But we must protect them before they disappear.” n

– RICHARD ANDREWS