Moulding Sales Handbook

(Continued from previous page) ance of master craftsmanship, they actually are easy, affordable and creative remodeling projects. o Horizontal running mouldingsFor profiles such as base, crown, chair rail or shoe moulding, measure the length of each wall and round up to the next full foot. Add l07o to the total to determine how much to buy. If base or crown moulding will be used on a wall with outside corners at each end, add the width of the moulding to the length. r Doors & windows - Measure the height and width of each door and window. For doors, add l/8" to the width of the casing to compensate for outside corner miters and the reveal. On windows. also take the width of the moulding into consideration. Add l0%o to the total. o Picture frames - To make picture frames or other special moulding projects, measure the perimeter of each area to get a lineal footage total. Include the additional footage for outside corners.

Chapter 4: "What style mouldings do you need?"

The two main styles of moulding are ranch (simple, contemporary) and colonial (more detailed with classic curves and arcs). The two don't match and should not be applied in the same or adjacent rooms. If the moulding will be installed to meet existing trim, help the customer match or replace the existing profile. If a sample isn't available, ask the customer to measure the width and thickness of moulding and sketch its profile.

Chapter 5: "How will you finish the moulding?"

Customers who want to stain the moulding need to purchase solid lineal moulding. If the customer wants to paint the moulding, fingerjointed material is usually appropriate.

If the moulding will be installed with authentic or simulated wood paneling, recommend clear moulding with a matching stained finish. Stained moulding complements paneling better than paint does.

Chapter 6: "How much moulding do you need?"

To determine how much moulding customers will need. have them list the rooms where the moulding is going to be installed, then list all profiles needed for each room.

Chapter 7: "What length moulding do you need?"

Moulding comes in various lengths from 6'to 16'. Urge customers to use pieces that fit each length of each wall or run, rather than buy long lengths and have to cut them. Shorter lengths are easier to transport and handle, less prone to damage, easier to work with, require less cutting, and save money due to less waste. Selling shorts also improves inventory management.

Chapter 8: "Handle with care."

Since most wood moulding is made from softwoods such as pine and fir, it should be handled with care to keep it from getting dirty or dam- aged. Customers should store moulding in a clean, dry place. Because moulding will expand and contract according to changes in temperature and humidity, it should be acclimated in the room where it will be installed for 24 to 48 hours before installation. During this period, adjust the room temperature to the level at which it will be maintained once the room is finished.

Chapter 9: "HaYe you ever instalted moulding befone?"

Retailers who know the products they sell are far more effective in selling them. Be prepared to answer your customers' installation questions and you will sell a lot more than moulding. The basic installation steps are: o Cutting - Recommend customers practice cutting with scrap material before beginning their projects. If they are building up profiles, recommend using scrap pieces to decide how to stack and space the moulding. To position the moulding, hold it up to the ceiling or against the wall or floor, and mark the position with a pencil. When making a cut, mark the moulding at the longest point of the 45'angle.

Miter cuts include angle cuts (made through the width of a piece of moulding), bevel cuts (made through the thickness of the moulding), square cuts (made perpendicular to the face of the moulding), coped cuts (to join two perpendicular pieces of moulding at an inside corner), and splices (to join two pieces of moulding together on a long wall by overlapping).

Plan-O-Gramming The Moulding Department

Crown (8'& 10')

Bed Mould (8'& 1o',)

Picture Mould (8'& 10)

Colonial Base (8'& 10)

Streamline Base (8'& 10)

Base Shoe (8', & 1o',)

Base Cap (8'& 10)

14Yo

ColonialCasing (7'& 1o',)

ColonialStop (7'& 10)

Streamline Casing (7'& 10')

Streamline Stop (7',& 10',)

Back Band (7'& 10)

Window Stool(8')

Drip Cap (8')

Brick Mould (7')

Chair Rail (8'& 10)

Ply Cap (8'& 10)

Comer Guard (8')

Quailer Round (8)

SmallCove (8')

Panel Mould (8')

Mullion Casing (8)

S4S Sto* (8)

Screen MouH (8)

Lattice (8')

Hall Rumd (8)

Chamfer Stdp (8)

Shingle MoId (8)

FullRord (8)

21Yo

24o/o

Cown (8)

Bed Mould (8)

Colonial Base (8)

Base Shoe (8)

Colonial Casing c/)

ColonialStop (4

Chair Rail (8)

Comer Guard (8')

Quader Round (8)

SmaX Covt (8)

S4S Slo* (8) o Installing - Measure each dimension of the room and add the necessary amounts for outside corners, windows and doors. Cut and install one piece of moulding at a time, working your way around the room.

Chan fu GcorgiaPacific Cotp.

Finishing ._ Whether finish rs applied before or after the moulding is installed depends on I the type of finish i desired, whether nail holes can be filled before staining or after painting, how accessible the moulding is to finishing after installation, how difficult masking will be, and the type of wall, floor and ceiling finish that surrounds the moulding.

Generally, it's easii er and faster to finish moulding after it has been measured and cut, but before it is installed. Stain, in particular, is much harder to control and repair after the moulding has been installed.

After the moulding pieces have been cut, lay them horizontally and sand smooth any rough edges. Sand with the grain using 150- to 220-grit sandpaper. Wipe the sawdust off with a slightly damp cloth.

To stain the moulding, apply the coats according to the stain manufacturer's instructions. To paint, apply a primer coat and perhaps one coat of paint before the moulding is installed. Use a nail set to completely drive in the nails and putty the holes. Sand after the putty dries and apply another coat of paint.

If painting or staining after the moulding has been installed, first mask around the edges of the moulding with tape or a paint shield. Remove the mask before the finish has completely dried.

Nail the moulding into place. If using finishing nails, blunt the tips with a hammer to prevent splitting the wood. You can also pre-drill pilot holes into the moulding. Drive the nail into the wood. but leave the head of the nail exposed. Use a nail set to drive the head of the nail below the surface of the wood. A nail set can also be used to drive staples below the surface of the wood.

Chapter 10: "Would you like fries with that?"

Go over all the necessary tools and materials, especially if this is a new project for the customer. Asking about additional items not only increases sales, but provides a valuable service to the customer. People prefer to purchase all their materials at one time to avoid unnecessary return trips for items forgotten.

The higher quality the tools, the easier the job will be and the more professional the project will look. Make sure customers have: o Miter box - helps make precise angled cuts. An economy miter box is manufactured from wood or plastic and usually permits three or four angled cuts. Though usually sufficient for most small do-it-yourself projects, most contractors and trim crews use power miter boxes. o Back saw - cuts the moulding in the miter box. A back saw has a flat, approximately 3-l 12" -wide blade topped with a brass or steel strip to keep the blade straight when making angled cuts. o Coping saw - uses a thin blade to sculpt the ends of pieces of moulding to fit against each other when joining them at an inside corner. A 6" or 8" saw is sufficient for most projects. o Hammer o Nails - 3d (I-ll4) or 4d (l-112") finishing nails are suggested, depending on the width of the moulding and the thickness of the wallcovering. Nails must be long enough to go completely through the moulding, wallcovering and penetrate the stud. o Nail set - drives the heads of finishing nails below the surface of the wood without damaging the moulding. o Pneumatic nailer - can be used in place of a hammer and nails. Should be electric; do not suggest springaction staplers. o Tape measure o Chalk line - marks the wall to help produce straight, level lines when installing chair rail, wainscoting or other decorative treatments. o Caulk/adhesive - a water-based wood adhesive glues the joints of two pieces at splices and corners. If the trim will be painted, caulk will conceal gaps at outside corners and along the wall. o Color-matched wood puttyconceals nail heads if the mouldine is stained.

. Stain/paint

. Sandpaper/steel wool o Goggles - protects eyes when sawing, nailing or using power tools.

- This article is based on information provided by Georgia-Pacific Corp. and the Wood Moulding & Millwork Producers Association.