The Wittance June 2023

June 2023

The Wittance

The Moray coast, Paolozzi & his world influence, Arbroath Declaration on display.

Baby boxes now, photographs, videos, tales of bravery, history and intrigue.

All inside, all free & all interesting.

Read, listen & watch

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Welcome to th of The W It’s summer and things are heating up in many ways. The weather has been warm with little or no rain and you seem to be taking The Wittance to your heart. Our readership is growing daily and our social media followers are on the increase. Thank You! We try to bring a wide range of article to the magazine and we think we have managed that again this month. We look at the first public exhibition of the 700 year old Arbroath Declaration of Independence in nearly 20 years. In 2017 the Baby Box scheme was introduced in Scotland to help infant mortality rates and give every child the best start. Kate MacRitchie looks at the impact they have made over the last six years.

We have tales of John Law an outlandish Scottish banker who accrued enormous gambling debts, was sentenced to death, was pardoned, revolutionised French banking and died a young man. We have Scottish influences in the US Navy and reveal the oldest tennis court in the world – it’s in Fife.

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he June edition Wittance.

Our pull-out sections take photographic tours around Morayshire and some of Scotland most loved bridges. Our books, music and podcast section have live music videos, book reviews and stories in Doric.

Every month we discuss future content and are always pleased to discover Scotland is so rich in material our biggest problem is what to leave out. It is a problem we enjoy and to add to our dilemma, we would love to hear from you. Your Scottish themed stories, pictures, songs and music are all very welcome.

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Bruce Patterson Editor & compiler

Kate MacRitchie Feature writer & contributor

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What’s Inside

Declaration of Independence A unique chance to view this historic Scottish artefact.

John Law

Banking, Gambling, the Death penalty and invention of paper money

Major General Sir David Stewart

The man responsible for the kilt & tartan as we know it today.

The Scottish Baby Box

The impact of this life changing initiative

King Malcolm 111

Crowned in 1063 the first from the House of Dunkeld

The Moray Coast

An often missed but beautiful part of Scotland

Eduardo Paolozzi

Born in Leith and became a world renowned & influencial artist Join us as we wander along the often missed but beautiful Moray coastline

We have selected some of the bridges from around Scotland & put them together for you in this stand alone pull-out section

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e This Month?

Scots Words With Alice Scots words, how to say and when to use them.

Ruthven Barracks

Seen from the roadside by thousands every day but what was it?

SS Sirius

Built in Leith & once the fastest ship in the world.

A View of Rannoch

A unique chance to view this historic Scottish artefact.

Scottish Influence

From the US Navy to tennis. The Scottish influence is everywhere

Fergus Scottish Festival

A unique chance to view this historic Scottish artefact.

Highland Games

A unique chance to view this historic Scottish artefact.

This month we have a variety of videos showing live music, audio stories and a recording of political proceedings at Holyrood, Scotland’s own parliament.

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Rare Opportunity To See Symbolic Artefact of Scottish Independence

By Kate MacRitchie

One of Scotland’s greatest treasures, The Declaration of Arbroath, is to be seen by the public for the first time in 18 years. The artefact will be on display at the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh from June 3rd to July 2nd — a once-in-adecade opportunity.

Forged 700 years ago in the febrile environment of medieval Scotland, the Declaration of Arbroath has long been held as a national treasure and symbolic of Scots’ thirst for independence.

Written in Latin in 1320 and addressed to the Pope, it declares support for King Robert the Bruce and an independent Scotland. Yellowed with age, frayed and fragile, the document is nevertheless a potent symbol of Scotland’s right to freedom. Blood-red wax seals cling to its tattered edges, affixed by the powerful Scottish barons who resisted English rule.

At the time Scotland was in the papal bad books; Robert the Bruce had disobeyed Pope John XXII’s command for a truce with England. His

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punishment?

Excommunication.

Bruce responded by gathering some 50-strong supporters loyal to him at Arbroath Abbey to create the electrifying declaration which has echoed down history.

Written in Latin, probably

by Bernard of Kilwinning, the Declaration was sealed by eight earls and around 40 barons as an act of diplomacy.

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The document’s most famous line still has the power to raise nape hairs: […] for, as long as but a hundred of us remain alive, never will we on any conditions be brought under English rule. It is in truth not for glory, nor riches, nor honours that we are fighting, but for freedom – for that alone, which no honest man gives up but with life itself.

8 Crucially, the document emphasises the right of the people of Scotland to self-governance and reminds Robert the Bruce that he’s only king insofar as his ability to uphold Scotland’s right to liberty: “Yet if he [Robert the Bruce] should give up what he has begun, seeking to make us or our kingdom subject the King of England or the English, we should exert ourselves at once to drive him out as

our enemy and a subverter of his own right and ours, and make some other man who was well able to defend us our King.”

It’s stirring stuff. As historian John Prebble notes, the Declaration, “sets the will and the wishes of the people above the king”.

Was it this eloquent, heartfelt sentiment that won over the Pope? Or the realisation that the pesky

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Scots had too strong a sense of nationhood to come quietly? Either way, the document worked its magic. The Pope eventually lifted Bruce’s excommunication and issued a papal bull that recognised his right to be crowned King. Another landmark was achieved in May 1328, when King Edward III of England signed the Treaty of Edinburgh-Northampton, which recognised

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Scotland as an independent country and Robert the Bruce and his successors as its rightful rulers.

Since its signing, the Declaration of Arbroath’s evocative language, with its allure of freedom over riches and the will of the common man over crowned kings, has been woven into Scottish identity. From Burn’s ‘A Man’s A Man For A’ That’ to

10 the rousing ballads of 20th century folk-hero Hamish Henderson (not to mention a bid of independence in 2014), the stirring themes of nationhood, social justice, and self-determination evoked in the 700-year-old Declaration continue to shape the character of present-day Scotland.

Due to the document’s age, only 19 of the barons’ seals remain. Its fragility

has kept it under lock and key at the National Records of Scotland for nearly two decades, but this summer its custodians are granting a rare opportunity to see in person the letter that forged the reputation of a country.

Alice Blackwell, a senior curator at the National Museum, said, “We are delighted to have the opportunity to display the

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11 Declaration of Arbroath here at the National Museum of Scotland. It is a hugely significant document and a vital piece of Scotland’s history. We look forward to welcoming many visitors to enjoy the rare opportunity of seeing this iconic document close up.”

Technically, the document is 703 yearsold, but a global pandemic somewhat delayed celebrations.

Culture secretary Angus Robertson expects the historic artefact to attract visitors far and wide: “The Declaration of Arbroath is of great

historic and cultural interest to Scots and people around the world of Scottish descent. The display of this iconic document will give people from across Scotland and further afield a wonderful opportunity to visit the museum and see this important piece of history for themselves.”

After a long wait and much anticipation, the Declaration of Arbroath will finally see the light of day on June 3rd in Edinburgh at the National Museum. To preserve the document’s integrity, it’s only shown rarely so don’t sleep on the chance to see a true Scottish treasure!

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John Law

17th Century Banking, Gambling, The Death Penalty & Paper Money.

John Law was born in 1671 in Edinburgh, Scotland, into a family of bankers and goldsmiths from Fife. At age 14, John left the High School of Edinburgh and joined the family business. He also studied the banking business up until his father died in 1688.

After his father's death, John neglected the firm in

favor of extravagant pursuits and traveled to London, where he lost a lot of his money gambling.

Law was arrested on 9th April 1694 in Bloomsbury Square, London, after he fought a duel with Edward Wilson. He stood trial at the Old Bailey and was found guilty and sentenced to death. Law managed to

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13 with financial problems.

Issues within the French economy presented the opportunity to put his system into practice. He wanted to create a bank for national finance and a state company for commerce to exclude all private revenue.

In turn, this would create a large market of finance and trade run by the state and the profits would pay off the national debt.

escape prison and fled to Amsterdam. Here he studied banking operations.

In 1705, John published a proposal to establish a new banking system and the production of paper money.

He went on to write a book that foreshadowed these ideas. Laws’ propositions were rejected in Scotland, so he left to pursue his ambitions elsewhere.

Law spent many years moving between France and the Netherlands, dealing

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The council considered Law's proposal but eventually ended up rejecting the proposition in 1715. Law stayed in France during this time and hosted and entertained various Parisian nobles to gain popularity. He gained the attention of The Duke of Orleans and became acquainted with him.

After the war in France, the country was in significant debt. There was a shortage of metals, which led to the lack of coins in circulation.

This limited the production of new coins.

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The Duke of Orleans presented Law with the opportunity to display his ideas of using paper money as France’s economy was stagnant and the national debt crippling.

On 1st May 1716, Law convinced the French government to allow him to set up Banque Generale Privee, to develop paper money. Around this time, he also established the Mississippi company.

The Duke of Orleans ‘appointed Law as Controller General of Finances and effectively gave him control

of trade between France and its Louisiana and Canadian colonies.

John Laws authority allowed him to place himself and his representatives in every position of power. He appointed John Baptiste Le Moyne, Sier de Bienville as the governor and commander of the region.

Bienville knew Louisiana well and played a significant role in the early exploration of the area. He started to suspect Laws efforts were an elaborate scheme to portray Louisiana as having material riches that it did not possess.

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15 Bienville repeatedly told his superiors in Paris about the lack of riches in Louisiana and urged the French government to abandon its search and instead focus on the development of agriculture in the rich land of Mississippi Valley. They dismissed Bienville and believed Law's promise of the boundless wealth Louisiana would hold.

Years later in 1721, the share prices crashed as Bienville suspected and Law became the architect of what would be later known as the Mississippi bubble. An event that would begin with merging the trading companies of Louisiana into a single market. The Mississippi company ended with the collapse of his bank and subsequent devaluing of the Mississippi company's shares.

The rush to convert paper money back into coins led to sporadic bank hours and riots. Squatters occupied where he once lived and

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openly attacked the financiers that were in the area. These circumstances led Law to leave Paris and all his substantial property assets in France.

Law spent the next few years moving and gambling around Europe. However, in 1723 Orléans died suddenly, and Law was granted permission to return to London, having been pardoned in 1719.

He lived in London for four years and then moved to Venice, where he contracted pneumonia and died poor in 1729. It is clear Laws ideas of a centralized bank that would deal in a new form of paper money were years ahead of its time.

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Introducing Major General David Stewart At the eastern end of Glen Lyon stands a memorial to a man who helped create the image which we think of today as the traditional Highlander.

Major General David Stewart was a descendant of Robert II of Scotland. He was born in 1772 at Garth Castle in Perthshire, and he died while serving as the governor on the island of St Lucia in the Caribbean. His sword and military decorations are in the National War Museum of Scotland at Edinburgh Castle.

of the Highlanders of Scotland', published in two volumes 1822.

'Sketches' is an in-depth look at the history of Scotland, its customs, culture, people, and military heritage. Most of the two volumes are concerned with

Stewart had a long and distinguished military career as an officer in the Black Watch but he is best remembered as an antiquarian and the author of 'Sketches of the Character, Manners, and Present State

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17 the history of the Scottish regiments, following a request for historical background from the officer leading the 42nd (Royal Highland) Regiment of Foot, whose records had been lost.

Much more importantly, the two books were more responsible than any other source with creating our modern picture of the Scottish Highlander and the clan system. Stewart's detailed work is the foundation for all later studies of the Scottish clans and Highland heritage.

He was made a Fellow of the Royal Society of Edinburgh in 1819 and served as a Companion of the Order of the Bath.

Stewart's birthplace of Garth Castle is about one mile north along the Keltneyburn road from the memorial. After years as a ruin, it has now been restored. The castle is in private hands and is not open to the public.

The books were universally acclaimed, even by critics who thought Stewart showed too much sympathy for the Jacobite cause.

Stewart joined novelist Sir Walter Scott in welcoming George IV on his groundbreaking tour to Scotland in 1822. Stewart helped Scott arrange a reception for the king in Edinburgh and led the Celtic Club in a procession.

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The memorial was paid for by the Stewart Society in 1919 and exhibited at The Exhibition of the Royal

18 Scottish Academy of Painting, Sculpture and Architecture in that year. It was erected at Keltneyburn and unveiled in a public ceremony on 27 June 1925 by the Duke of Atholl, the Lord-Lieutenant of Perthshire. It shows Stewart in the costume of a captain in the Black Watch.

The sculpture was designed by Henry Snell Gamley, RSA, and executed

by Stewart and Company of Aberdeen and Dumfries. It is made of granite from Creetown, near Newton Stewart in Dumfries-shire.

The base of the memorial is inscribed with the following text:

The Stewart Society and other admirers, in memory of a true Highlander.

1925.

Major General

CUIMHNICHIBH NA DAOINE

David Stewart, C.B.

O'N D'THAINIG SIBH.

of Drumachary and Garth Historian of the Highlands and the Highland Regiments 1768 - 1829. erected by

The memorial stands at the bend in the minor road leading off the B846 at Coshieville, signposted to Fortingall and Glen Lyon. It is extremely easy to find, but

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19 much easier to spot while travelling east, toward Coshieville, rather than west towards Fortingall.

Highland dress, 'what's that?'. I vowed to return and find out after visiting Fortingall.

It is on the west bank of Keltney Burn, just over the road bridge and set back slightly at the apex of the curve. There is space for several cars to pull off the road opposite the memorial, though no dedicated parking area.

What is so memorable about the Stewart Memorial is not the statue, though it certainly is striking, but the story of the man behind it. It is fascinating to think that so much of what we consider the prototypical Highlander is down to one man's research and writing. If it were not for Stewart, how much would we know about Highland customs and the clan system?

The first time we saw the Stewart Memorial we were driving west to visit the ancient yew tree in Fortingall a few miles to the west. I remember thinking as we came around the corner in Keltneyburn and spotted the striking statue of a man in

Stewart's 'Sketches' has been reprinted and digitised, and is still an invaluable historical resource today.

Send us your stories, videos, images or audio files.

Scottish? We want to see, hear or read it.

Contact The Wittance Editor@bruhupubishing.com

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Every Child Is Equal: The Impact Of Scotland’s Baby Box

By Kate MacRitchie In 2017 Scotland introduced the country's first ‘baby box’. Designed to give all Scottish children the best start in life, the box contains items that help parents with the cost of a newborn and to establish positive parenting habits. The scheme began as a way to tackle deprivation and inequality, and encourages a society that supports and values all children.

Scotland isn’t the first country to implement a baby box. Finland has been leading the way since the 1930s with its

äitiyspakkaus. The welcome-to-the-world gift contains life-enhancing baby supplies worth $450, which all mothers in Finland receive free of charge. Finland’s baby box was part of an effort to reduce sky-high infant mortality rates, a figure which has now decreased to just 2 deaths in 1,000 live births — one of the world’s lowest.

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However, experts caution that there’s no empirical evidence to link baby boxes and a reduction in infant death.

Statisticians from the National Institute of Health and Welfare in Finland point out that several factors contribute to Finland’s low infant mortality rate, like the shift from home birth to hospital birth and

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widespread pre-natal care.

While lack of tangible evidence might muddy the waters for politicians, first-time Finnish parents are clear on how they feel: the baby box prepares them for parenthood by knowing that all the essentials are taken care of. The äitiyspakkaus is an institution in Finland and

22 has inspired other countries, like Scotland, to similar acts of kindness.

Six years on, what impact have baby boxes made in Scotland? While the scheme is still in its infancy, statistics are positive. For a start, uptake is high at 90%.

With over 250,000 baby boxes delivered since the scheme started, its seems that most new parents welcome the offer of a helping hand.

The Scottish baby box contains over 25 items.

Essentials like warm clothing, blankets, and a digital thermometer are provided alongside a few treats. The idea is that parents are given ways to bond with their baby in a loving, positive way.

Books, for instance, help parents connect with their child and teach them early language skills while the

hooded towel encourages cuddles at bath time.

The box itself is designed to be a comfortable and safe place for babies to sleep.

Each baby box comes with safe sleep guidelines in an effort to reduce the risk of Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS) or “cot death”.

Despite midwives and health visitors placing

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23 value on the box itself as a safe sleeping place, detractors claim that the box isn’t a fit for purpose crib. The Lullaby Trust expressed “reservations about the safety of cardboard baby boxes” and are working with the British Standards Institution to develop better standards for baby boxes.

These concerns are partially reflected in a study conducted by Ipsos MORI. 61% of parents didn’t use the box for sleeping, with many stating it “felt wrong” to put their baby in a cardboard box. However, 84% of parents surveyed found the leaflet on safe sleeping useful. Midwives also praised the scheme for raising awareness of safer sleep practises for newborns, even if parents choose not to use the baby box as a sleep space.

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Perhaps the biggest impact of the baby box has been financial. Valued at £160 the baby box provides low-income families access to costlier items and an equal opportunity to give their child a loving and safe start in life. The Ipsos MORI study found that the digital thermometer was by far the most useful item for parents, allowing them check their baby’s

24 temperature quickly and accurately.

91% of parents who participated in the study agreed that the baby boxed saved them money by providing essential items they needed for their baby. Value also came from items they wouldn’t have bought otherwise.

Other encouraging statistics centred around the widespread benefits of the baby box. 60% of parents felt encouraged to start reading to their child thanks to the books provided and 37% felt they’d learned how to form a deeper bond with their baby.

Despite doubts over the baby box’s true effectiveness in combating infant mortality, feedback from parents and midwives is mostly positive. Across

the world, countries are adopting similar baby bundles and maternity packages.

Ireland is currently trialling a ‘Little Baby Bundle’ with 500 expectant parents and New Jersey is the first American state to offer a baby box scheme in a bid to tackle deaths from SIDS. Scotland’s Baby Box has been showcased in Philadelphia, Boston, and Seattle as an example of what’s possible.

A quick glance at online forum Reddit shows unfiltered enthusiasm for Scotland’s baby box at home and abroad. An ‘unboxing’ on the subreddit / Damnthatsinteresting garnered widespread praise, with many commentors praising the scheme as a beneficial use of taxpayer money. Scots

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25 weighed in with their satisfaction upon receiving their baby box, and Finns waxed lyrical about their country’s original and beloved scheme.

Meanwhile, the rest of the world looked on wistfully: “In America, we get a hospital bill. So there's that,” remarked one wry commenter.

Perhaps this is the crux of the baby box argument. Of course, concerns over infant safety shouldn’t be

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ignored, but amid callous NHS cutbacks and the escalating cost of living crisis, the baby box scheme is a humane glimmer of hope that puts the welfare of future generations first. A simple box of essentials, available to all, promotes kindness and offers every child in Scotland an equal start.

That’s not to say there isn’t room for improvement though. As one Scottish Redditor pointed out, the baby box has a glaring omission: “What, no sgian dubh?”

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Bridges in

Scotland has a l a lot of bridges

This month we take a we There are so man come back to look a

We have picked a few to fea say they are our favourites as the thousand

Some are new, some old b

Use this link to transpo

Scottish Br

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n Scotland

lot of water and s to go with it.

ee look at some of them. ny we will have to at more in the future.

ature this month. We cannot s that would be an injustice to ds of others.

but they are all beautiful.

ort yourself right there;

ridges Tour

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King Malcolm 111 Malcom Canmore

Scottish Kings go back to Kenneth 1 c 843.

This month we have Malcolm 111 who was the first King from the House of Dunkeld.

Malcolm III, otherwise known as Malcolm Canmore, was born in March 1031 in Dunkeld, Scotland, the eldest son of King Duncan.

Duncan had inherited the throne from his father, Crinan Abbot of Dunkeld who founded the House of Dunkeld, which would go onto rule Scotland until

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29 1286.

Duncan, however, proved to be a less capable ruler, and his failure to expand his kingdom in Scotland and a disastrous attack on Durham in England in 1039 tested the loyalty of his most powerful allies. One of these being his cousin Macbeth. In 1040, at the Battle of Bothganow, Duncan was murdered at the hands of Macbeth.

After Duncan's death, Macbeth took over the throne and Malcolm had to seek safety from him. He and his brother Donald fled the country and took refuge in Northumberland in Northern England. Here he was looked after by Sidward, Earl of Northumbria. Sidward also had ambitions to acquire territory in Southern Scotland.

By the time Malcolm had matured, he had met another even more powerful ally, the King of England, Edward the Confessor. The English king saw an opportunity to restore the House of Dunkeld to the

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throne and make Malcolm his puppet ruler. Malcolm remained in exile in England until 1053. This subsequently allowed him to bide his time for revenge on Macbeth.

In 1054, Malcolm, Siward, and Edward the Confessor all joined forces. It was this year when an English army invaded Scotland. Macbeth was defeated at Dunsinane in Perthshire on 27th July and subsequently lost control over Perth and Fife.

In 1057 Malcolm's time had finally arrived. He defeated and killed Macbeth at the Battle of Lumphanan, Aberdeenshire.

Macbeth's stepson Lulach succeeded to the throne, but Malcolm, who now controlled most of Southern Scotland, had Lulach killed in an ambush at Essie in Strathbogie the year after Macbeth died. Lulach’s death meant that Malcolm now became the King of Scotland.

He was crowned at Scone Abbey on 25th April 1058.

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In 1059, Malcolm married his first wife, Ingibjorg, the widow of Earl Thorfinn of Orkney. The marriage helped unify Northern and Southern Scotland. Together they had three children, Duncan, Donald, and Malcolm. When she died, around 1070, Malcolm married Margaret, the great-niece of King Edward the Confessor of England.

She had fled her country following the Norman conquest of England.

Margaret had a strong influence over her husband and even encouraged his children to be given Saxon names; Edward, Edmund, David, and Alexander. She was also a keen supporter of the Catholic Church, and her promotion of it continued the demise of Gaelic Christianity in Scotland.

Malcolm's reign saw an increase in Anglo-Saxon influence in Scotland. He even permitted Saxon to replace Gaelic as the court language.

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31 Margaret was made a saint in 1250 for her efforts to spread Roman Catholicism and charity work for the poor. This is why she is today better known as Saint Margaret of Scotland.

Malcolm, who was still determined to extend his kingdom, took advantage of the upheaval caused by the Norman conquest to invade England. These raids were to lead to his demise.

In 1072, Malcolm was forced by William I of England to sign the Treaty of Abernethy and to become ‘the man’ of the king, give up his first-born, Duncan, as a hostage as security for his future obedience not to raid England.

However, in 1093, Malcolm violated his feudal obligations and made five raids into England. During the last of these invasions, Malcolm was killed by the forces of King William II in a Battle at Alnwick, Northumberland on 13th

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November 1093, aged 62.

His eldest son from his second marriage, Edward, also died of his wounds just a few days later on the 16th.

The same day, the news was brought to Edinburgh Castle so that Margaret could be informed of her husband's and son's passing.

She also died that very same day when she was informed.

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Books, Music

Inside this pull-out section we playing at the HebCelt, Speysou There is a book review of Sha based on the Tam O’Shanter po Our podcasts include stories f Doric language, a tale of rural fa from the Scottish Parliament at Time for the First Minister.

To read more, w & listen to th

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c & Podcasts

e have videos from bands und & Tiree Festivals. anters Legacy, a children’s book oem by Robert Burns. from the North-East told in the arming life and a live recording t Holyrood featuring Question

watch the videos he podcasts

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A Trip Around Must-See Moray

By Kate MacRitchie

If ever there was a hidden gem in Scotland it’s Moray. Nestled in north-east Scotland it’s a unique blend of forest, mountain, and sea. The bonnie Moray Firth coast is a balm for weary souls, dotted with quaint fishing villages, peaceful beaches, and dramatic ruins that echo the craggy cliffs and sea stacks.

Sparkling rivers, refreshing pine forests, shimmering sunsets, magnificent wildlife — and

if that wasn’t enough, Moray is also home to uisge beatha, the water of life. In other words, whisky!

Moray Speyside hosts over half of Scotland’s whisky distilleries, which means you can enjoy its tranquility with a delicious dram in hand.

With so much to explore and discover in this secretive part of Scotland, here’s a handy list of top Moray attractions.

Spey Bay

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Explore Ancient History Historic Elgin Elgin is a historic town full of charm and character. Elgin Cathedral once rivalled St Andrews for religious significance.

Once known as ‘The Lantern of the North’, its remains still contain hidden treasures like a preserved Pictish cross slab and ancient carved gravestones. If you have

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time, take a trip to the nearby Biblical Garden where stories from the Bible are beautifully brought to life with over one hundred different types of plant.

Don’t forget Elgin Museum — built in 1843, it’s one of the oldest museums in Britain. Find it at the top of the High Street and prepare for a journey from dinosaurs to present day.

36 Stone Circles of Ballindalloch Heading towards Ballindalloch Castle, bear witness to 4,000 year-old stone circles and a clutch of Pictish stones, dated at 1,000 years old. A wee detour to Inveravon Parish Church is also worth your time to view the intriguing stones displayed in the Parish Church porch.

The stones are a breathtaking insight into Dark Age Scotland. Carved by the Picts, these decorative monoliths are all that remains of Scotland’s ancient and elusive native inhabitants.

Sueno’s Stone Speaking of stones, Moray is home to the largest surviving Pictish stone. Sueno’s Stone stands 7m high and its ornate carvings depict a bloody battle and what

experts believe to be a royal coronation. There’s a local legend that claims this stone is where Macbeth met the three witches. Take care on your visit, for it’s rumoured that the witches are entombed within the stone, waiting to be released!

Witches Stone Fed up of ancient stones yet? This one marks the grave of three supposed witches who cursed King Duncan in 1040. The plaque above the stone describes how the area’s “witches” were placed in barrels and rolled down Cluny Hill. These weren’t ordinary barrels; they were driven through with razor-sharp nails and designed to mangle the woman inside. When the barrel came to halt it was then burned alongside the “witch’s” bloody remains.

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Ironically, this commemoration to injustice is located next to Forres police station. The stone itself is said to be cursed, and was held responsible for the many forest fires that have raged upon Cluny Hill.

Today it’s crumbled into ruin, though the picturesque setting and well-tended war graves in the adjoining cemetary are worth a visit.

Astoundingly, Kinloss Abbey was founded 1150 and is still used as a burial site today.

Kinloss Abbey Kinloss Abbey is located

by Findhorn Bay, which flows out to the Moray Firth. Due to fishing rights on the River Findhorn granted by Robert the Bruce, Kinloss Abbey became one of the wealthiest in Scotland.

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Cruise By Castles Moray is as famous for castles as it is whisky.

Brodie Castle, with its Instagrammable peach hue, is best visited in spring, where the lawns

38 are a riot of yellow daffodils. Duffus Castle, near Lossimouth, boasts a traditional motte and bailey design and strategic views over Laich o’ Moray. Those with quick reflexes might be able to snap a combat jet thundering by - Duffus Castle lies on the flight path of RAF Lossiemouth.

Ballindalloch Castle is the “pearl of the North”, built to an impressive Zplan in 1546. The castle hosts a rare collection of 17th century Spanish paintings and a spectre known as the ‘Green Lady’

haunts the dining room. If ghost hunting is your thing, head to Dunphail Castle, near Forres, where five headless soldiers creak and groan through the rubble. They are Comyn’s beheaded men, captured and decapitated at the command of the Regent Moray, who supposedly yelled, “Here’s beef for yer bannocks” while throwing the heads over the castle walls. It may be nothing more than a grisly tale, but in the 18th century five headless bodies were discovered buried on the castle grounds.

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39 Go Wild In The Great Outdoors Dolphin spotting Moray’s most famous residents are the bottlenosed dolphins that caper up and down the Moray Firth. Chanory Point, Cromarty is one of the best places to spot these extremely intelligent and charismatic creatures. You might also get lucky and see porpoises or a Minke whale.

October, when the moon and stars shine brightest.

It’s a special place indeed, being the most northerly ‘Dark Sky Park’ in the world.

Bask on Bonnie Beaches The Moray coast is peppered with pretty beaches. Findhorn Beach is a firm favourite and part of an 11 mile stretch of sandy coast. Lossiemouth Beach’s silvery sands curve towards Covesea Lighthouse and Cullen Beach offers coastal walks and the possibility of dolphins.

Marvel at the Night Sky Bow Fiddle Rock Southern Moray encompasses Tomintoul, which was awarded Gold Tier status by the Dark Sky Association. Enjoy magical, starry evenings free of light pollution in

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Bow Fiddle Rock is a monstrous rock formation so-called because it resembles the tip of a fiddle bow. Rearing up from the sea at 50ft high, the quartzite rock is a nesting site for hundreds

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of gulls. Pummelled and shaped by the North Sea for centuries, Bow Fiddle Rock is a natural wonder that’s worth braving the sea air to see.

Old Bridge of Livet Moray isn’t all about the sea, it also hosts wonderful woodlands.

Tucked away amongst the trees near Glenlivet distillery is a curious old

pack bridge called the Old Bridge of Livet. It’s undulating shape carpeted in tufted green grass has the look of a fairy bridge, though it dates to the 18th century.

This wee detour outside Glenlivet is an idyllic spot for a picnic, and nature photographers will find artistic inspiration in the beautiful scenery and local wildlife.

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41 War Defenses Lossie Forest Head deeper into pineclad Lossie Forest and you’ll find curious concrete blocks. These anti-tank cubes, alongside pillboxes and a gun emplacement, are unsettling reminders of a time when the UK prepared to defend against invasion in World War II. Thankfully the military defenses were never needed and remain as mere echoes of war.

Drink a Dram — or two!

Exploring Moray’s hidden gems is thirsty work. Luckily Moray’s Speyside region has more whisky disitlleries than any other part of Scotland. Head to The Balvenie, Glenfiddich, to sample whisky made using the ‘five rare crafts’:

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growing barley, malting barley, coppersmithing, coopering, and blending.

Macallan Distillery is also an impressive sight; hewn into the hillside above the River Spey, its architectural magnificence has garnered several awards.

Visit during April to experience the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival 500 events over 5 days offer tours the chance to sample drams of the finest whisky from the region’s 51 working distilleries.

You can see more photographs from along the Moray Coast in this superb supplement.

Moray Coast Tour

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Eduardo Paolozzi Sir Eduardo Paolozzi was a Scottish sculptor and artist. He is considered an influential pioneer to the 60s British pop art movement. Some of his more influential pieces of work were done as large-scale public commissions. These transformed spaces including the British Library courtyard and the London Underground.

As a young boy, he would spend his summers at his grandparents' place in Monte Cassino. In June 1940, when Italy entered World War II, Paolozzi was interned. He spent three months at Saughton Prison.

Eduardo Paolozzi was born on March 7th, 1924, in Leith in North Edinburgh, Scotland. He was the eldest son to Italian immigrants and subsequently spoke both English and Italian. His family was from Viscuso in the Lazio region, and they ran an ice cream shop.

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43 During this time Paolozzi's father, grandfather, and uncle were also interned . They were all on a ship carrying them to Canada when it was hit by a German Uboat. Sadly, they among with 446 other Italians all drowned when the ship was hit.

After being released from internment, Paolozzi was conscripted and served a year in the army before he faked madness to secure a discharge. He went on to pursue his dream and chose to study at Edinburgh College of Arts in 1943, and then at the Slade School of Fine Art at University College of London from 1944 to 1947 before he moved to Paris.

One of the first pieces he made was a collage called ‘I was a rich man's plaything.’ This collage was deemed one of the

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first examples of Pop Art. Paolozzi did not display the work until 1952 when he presented it with over 40 other collages as part on his BUNK series.

This became known as the independent group.

The group was founded by Paolozzi and other artists, including photographer Nigel Henderson and sculptor Richard Hamilton. The group championed the use of

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found objects and popular culture in art.

Paolozzi moved back to London and eventually established his studio in Chelsea. Together with Nigel Henderson, he established Hammer Prints Limited, a design company producing wallpapers, textiles, and ceramics.

Paolozzi continued

working prolifically throughout the 1960s.

He taught sculpture and ceramics at several institutions and continued to develop his Screen printing.

These prints are characterized by pop culture references and technological imagery.

‘As is when,’ a series of prints inspired by the philosopher Ludwig Wittgenstein is one of his most notable pieces of work from this time.

He also began contributing to the literary magazine 'Ambit' during this period, which began a lifelong collaboration with them.

In 1980, the Institute of Chartered Accountants in England and Wales (ICAEW) commissioned a set of three tapestries from Paolozzi to represent ‘present-day and future societies concerning the

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45 role played by ICAEW’ as part of the institute's centenary celebrations.

These still currently hang in The Chartered Accountant's hall.

In 1986, Paolozzi got promoted to the office of Her Majesty's sculptor in Ordinary for Scotland. It was here he completed one of his best-known commissions, the vibrant mosaics at Tottenham Court Road underground

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station.

After his death, there were fears that the mosaics would be permanently removed.

This sparked a public petition demanding the decision to be reversed.

In 1989, Paolozzi was knighted by Queen Elizabeth II as a knight bachelor and by the end of his life was one of the best-known artists.

46 In 1994 Paolozzi gave the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art a large body of his works and much of the content of his studio.

In 1999 the National Galleries of Scotland opened the Dean Gallery to display this collection.

The gallery displays a

recreation of Paolozzi's studio.

In 2001, Paolozzi suffered a near-fatal stroke, which left him wheelchair-bound. In April 2005 he died in a London hospital. His work continues to this day to be influential.

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The Wittance 47

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April 2023

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Get in Touch We would love to hear your Scottish stories. They may be reminiscences, family folklore or history, questions you need answered, photographs, anything that tells a story of Scottishness.

Do you feel Scottish, how do you express your Scottishness? Tell us your tale and how your ancestors got to be where they set roots and how you maintain that link.

Are you planning an event celebrating Scotland or our Celtic links and background send us the details and we can help you tell the wider world.

There is only one Scotland but it belongs to so many people all across the world, let’s tell that story far and wide.

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Scots Words

Scots La

Scots is one of three languages used in Sco English. It is a collection of Doric, Lallans and S Glesca and Shetland.

It has been spoken in Scotland for centurie parts, the Lowlands, Orkney and Shetland.

The Scottish G currently carrying consultation befo Scots Languages B support all Scots can read the cons document here.

Consul Docum

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s With Alice

anguages

otland today alongside Scottish Gaelic and Scotch also known as Buchan, Dundonian,

es particularly in the Eastern and Southern

Government is g out a public ore considering a Bill to help Languages. You sultation

ltation ment

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Ruthven Barracks.

What is it?

As we travel up and down the A9 road which runs through the heart of Scotland, the main artery taking people north and south, Ruthven Barracks can be seen easily from the road in either direction. It sits opposite the bustling town of Kingussie and adds yet another fascinating backdrop to the already splendid showcase of the Cairngorm mountains.

family. The castle knew turbulent times from the beginning. The Comyn family were in dispute with Robert the Bruce and the castle was confiscated in the 1400s, passed into the Stewart family and the Earl of Buchan known as The Wolf of Badenoch. Then it was held by the Earl of Huntly, burned by John MacDonald, Earl of Ross and Lord of the Isles. It was rebuilt in 1459.

There was a castle on this site as early as 1229 which was owned by the Comyn

It was still in use at the time of the Battle of Killiecrankie in 1689. By 1716

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53 the Disarming Act was put in place by the British government.

This disallowed muskets, broadswords or other weapons to be held by Highlanders, the Government also installed four new infantry barracks in the Highlands in an attempt to forestall any further Jacobite activity. Ruthven was an obvious choice due to it’s geographic siting in the main route through the Cairngorms, the others were Bernera near Glenelg, Inversnaid at Loch Lomond and Kiliwhimen (Fort Augustus). The buildings we see today were constructed 1719-21and could house 60 soldiers with

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officers’ accommodation, a bakehouse and a brewery.

Originally intended for infantry, General Wade insisted on Dragoons as they were mounted infantry and so stables were added in 1734.

The British Government troops surrendered control to the Jacobites in a siege after the Battle of Falkirk in 1746.

The buildings were burned leaving only the skeleton we see nowadays. It was used as a rallying point after the defeat at Culloden but to no avail as they later received the order from Prince Charlie “Let every man seek his own safety in the best way he can.”

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SS Sirius 1837

Sirius was a 703-ton steamboat built-in 1837 by the company Menzies & Co. Ltd, the oldest shipbuilders in Leith, Scotland. She measured 178 and four inches long. The hold measured 18 feet, 3 inches in depth, and she had a tonnage of 703 tons.

The two-cylinder steam engine drove two paddle wheels that delivered 380 horsepower and gave a maximum speed of 12 knots.

Although she was originally built for service in the Irish sea, she was instead chartered by the British and American steam navigation company.

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55 The following year she had her first voyage set to sail from Cork, Ireland on the 4th of April to New York with around 45 passengers.

Around the time Sirius was completed, two other companies were building steamships for transatlantic passenger service. Rival ‘Great Western’ being one of the ships that were built was set to sail around the same time as Sirius. With shipbuilding technologies advancing at a steady pace, there was an unofficial competition among shipping companies to see who would be the first to travel from Europe to New York using steam power alone and subsequently establish the transatlantic route.

Just short of reaching New York, towards the end of an18-day voyage, Sirius’ fuel ran out. Despite this, the captain determined to complete the passage under steam alone refused to stop and instead fed spars and furniture into the furnace.

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Regardless of this problem, Sirius still managed to beat the much larger Great Western ship by just a few hours and was officially the first steamship to cross the Atlantic from east to west, against the flow of the golf stream using only steam power. Her voyage

56 lasted a total of 18 days, 4 hours, and 22 minutes.

The captain, in recognition of his achievements was awarded the freedom of New York, Cork, and London. The ship’s accomplishments captured the public on both continents. Newspapers wrote about it, one article even read ‘Nothing is talked of in New York but about this Sirius’. The New York mayor even visited the ship along with some US army and navy officials to pay their courtesy to it.

The building of the Sirius helped to pave the way for many other ship makers.

After her success, many wanted to take up the challenge of making engines for ships in Leith. The irony would come later, in that the steamship, with its ability to go anywhere at any time, would lead to the eventual demise of the busiest port in Scotland.

Sirius was listed as the first holder of what became known as the Blue Riband,

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57 awarded for the fastest crossing.

She only completed one additional round trip before she was returned to her owners as it was clear she was too small for the Cork New York crossing.

She resumed her regular St George Company service now doing a Cork – Glasgow route. The St George company did bid for a monthly Cork - Halifax service which included Sirius and another for a monthly Cork - Halifax – New York service in 1839 for the British Admiralty.

However, she was rejected, as was Great western, and the contract was finally awarded to Cunard.

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In 1847, Sirius went on a voyage departing from Glasgow, going via Dublin, and ending up in Cork. It was on the voyage where she was wrecked.

She was holding cargo and passengers when she struck rocks during a foggy night in Ballycotton Bay, Ireland. The only lifeboat launched was heavily overloaded and in the rough seas, twenty lives were sadly lost. In response to the loss of Sirius, the need for a lighthouse between Old House Kinsale and Hook Head on Irelands southern coast was recognized.

Over the following years Ballycotten lighthouse, on Ballycotton island was constructed and it was finally lit in 1851.

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Looking over Rannoch

by Robyn Smith

After a 40 minute drive from Pitlochry on one of the most beautiful roads off the A9 we arrived in Kinloch Rannoch.

Parking was simple, in a small car park a couple of yards from the bottom

easily leading us to the starting point, where there is a beautiful waterfall to introduce you to your journey.

You are taken on a track road for around the first mile, it had been a bit wet and we had water flowing down so some areas were a bit muddy.

After coming off road we then followed a stone wall up the hill, a very marshy area, so good foot wear would be essential.

The climb took around 40 minutes and on reaching the top you are presented with an incredible view over Loch Rannoch and the villlage of Kinloch Rannoch. Nearby

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59 we can look over toward Schiehallion but that is a climb for another day.

We had an beautiful hot day so this made for the prefect walk and on a good day like we had with little wind a picnic at the top to enjoy the view would be perfect day out.

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Overall a relatively easy hike until you get to the last couple of metres where it gets slightly steep on the way up. The descent has the same steep areas but is manageable Allow around an hour and a half for full hike depending on how much you enjoy taking in the scenery and exploring.

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Scottish In Oldest Tennis Court in the World

Tennis was introduced to Scotland by the French in the Middle Ages. King James IV played the Spanish ambassador at Stirling Castle in 1498. The game we know now differs greatly from that time which is referred to as Real Tennis. A court was commissioned for James V in 1539 and took 2 years to build.

It is the only open-air Real Tennis court in the world, larger than a lawn tennis court and has 4 walls with two of them featuring penthouses. The court is still used, 483 years after construction and can be viewed at Falkland Palace in Fife.

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nfluences

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Founding of the USA Navy John Paul Jones is famous as the Father of the American Navy. He was born in Abrigland, near Dumfries in Scotland in 1747. His father was a gardener, originally from Fife and worked on the Abrigland Estate.

His life was fast, furious and short as he dying at the age of 45. During that time he worked on slave ships but left as he found it abhorrent, was regarded as a pirate by the British navy, was awarded a golden sword and The Order of Military Merit by Louis XVI, made Rear Admiral of the Russian Fleet fighting in the Black Sea against the Turks.

In 1781 he was given a vote of thanks by the US Congress and awarded a gold medal and advised on the establishment of the US Navy and the training of officers.

He died in Paris 1791.

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Ferg

Scottish F Highland words, pictur

from Anna

Fergus Scottish Festival and Highland Games is the largest, longest running three-day event celebrating, promoting, and honouring Scottish heritage in Canada.

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gus

Festival & dres Games and video

a Ricketts

The Festival offers the four pillars of traditional Scottish culture: Highland Dance, Heavies Competitions, Pipes and Drums, and a bustling

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64 and interactive Clan and heritage village area. In 2023 the Festival is thrilled to be hosting the World Heavy Event Championships!

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Interna Highland Game July 2

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ational es & Gatherings 2023

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Highland Scotland

Games in July 2023

The Wittance You can read, watch and listen to our previous editions here.

April 2023

May 2023