ANTRIM AND BACK

180-mile circuit taking in the antrim coast – alaN DoWDeSWell

Top: Ballintoy Harbour, home to fine views and memorable scones

Below: Torr Head road can be a challenge, but worth it

I’ve been a biker for many years and a long-term resident of Northern Ireland, but I never tire of this, one of my favourite routes. It starts from my home town of Portadown, initially on fairly uninspiring A roads towards Carrickfergus, just a few miles from Belfast. When the Titanic was built, thousands of townspeople watched the ill-fated vessel make its first trip into the Irish Sea. The coast road to Larne is not particularly exciting but at the small town of Whitehead you can divert onto the quiet roads of Island Magee, which on a clear day affords views across the sea towards Port Patrick in Scotland. At present, it’s an island in name only, but rising sea levels may well dictate otherwise.

It’s narrow and not for the faint hearted as it twists, turns, rises and falls along the cliffs. There are places where you can stop and take in the view. Leaving Torr Head the road continues to delight and just before you eventually re-join the main road you see the sign to Murlough Bay. The road down is steep and not wide but the view towards Mull of Kintyre (on a fine day) will take your breath away.

Back on the main road and after Ballycastle there’s another worthwhile diversion, the B15 for Kilbane, its ruined castle and glorious sea views –only accessed via very steep steps however.

By now, like me, you’re probably looking for lunch, and it’s just a few miles further on to Ballintoy Harbour – I can recommend the café for its friendly staff, not to mention the scones with butter, jam and cream.

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Once beyond Larne, the A2 hugs the coast, with sea views just a glance away – some of the views are truly extraordinary, even for me after 50 years of riding this road. Between the small villages and towns, it provides fast flowing and open bends while Glenarm, with its very own castle, is a good stop for a quick coffee and a scone. After more bend swinging there’s a campsite at Cushendall should you decide to stop overnight. If you ride on, you have a choice at Cushendun: stay on the A2 for fast progress or divert onto the Torr Head road, which is the one I normally opt for!

The route to Portrush is straightforward and the road's quite fast with (largely) open bends, which makes for safe riding. You are unlikely to encounter much traffic outside the height of summer, though Portrush has all you’d expect of a holiday destination, and you could do worse than stop here overnight and sample the Guinness.

The best part of the route is now over, but after a quick (metaphorically speaking) run round the NW200 circuit, I head for home, down the western edge of Lough Neagh, the UK’s largest inland body of water. I’ve lived in Northern Ireland all my adult life but truly never tire of the scenery, the people and of course these fine roads.