Brazzil - Year 13 - Number 184 - June 2001 by Brazzil Magazine

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Year 13 • No. 184 • June 2001

UL1IS: CRUCIFYING IHE

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BRAZZIL •-JUNE JUNE 2001 2001 BRAZZIL

If the Nobel Peace Prize goes to Brazil this year it will be in very good hands. The country's Health Ministry has presented doctor ZildaAms Neumann as its candidate to the Nobel committee. Dr. Ams is #T?::]!c:b#%°{iiis:g:::3;:Sfdoi§j:a;;lie;i::i¥j[tsehifayaft§ the creator and the inspiration behind Pastoral da tchr:acnr;g{°crh?indqsthMei;#§tp;r):tt!fenBbreffiFignpi:Sstt?Lat'ig: Crian~a(Child's Ministry), the Brazilian institution organization was Her organization that most attracts volunteers. Her conceived as a way to decrease child mortality by the way of teaching mothers to care for their kids with diarrhea and dehydration. The institution, which was i¥;:V;%£#da:¥;%r:jti::e::.rio=:e?§##:°:ira#csbh%hfe created in the mid-80s, has has grown grown to to assemble assemble more more than I100,000 volunteers. 00,000 volunteers. Pastoral da Crian~a is just the most visible sign of a new social conscience in Brazil. According to .fapnaesto::lcfaa|::inasnc9i:i:iuisnt:hreazT|?sA::s.irbd:nsjg: a study by Rio's Federal University anthropologist Leilah Landim, 20 million Brazilian adults dedicate i::radhyLb#i£#5emd]PLi::nuEi:::[S££a##trs°g:i?c8:ts: time as volunteers to causes they believe in. This means 22.6 percent of Brazilians past the age of 18 #eEio:ts£#:pfr:i:9;=nt:o;£Cpa#i?i.i#::pu££t]bi!;leg;;i.,:T€:[£ help other Brazilians for free. The number is still low when compared to the situation in the US where 49 percent of the population does some volunteering, #r::nc,o.m#:ef.t:#ae,isjLu3t.i:snsi:iheevu.fuT,he:rr:n4g: catch up. to catch are trying but Brazilians are up. trying to In this that has been chosen by the United Nation[snatshii:h|antt:r¥a?ieoennafhy°::nobfyj#Ej::g,¥ha; tions as the International Year of Volunteers, the committee in charge of the event celebrations in Brazil has adopted the goal of increasing by 50 percentthe number of volunteers in the nation. And this is not just a numbers game. The very notion of volunteerism is changing and the work is being !h;:ji::jij:#ii:id:::::nt;jiiaeih:is;:;;:;i§i§d;i;erjo§:§siirt;:Ilo;§ja§;!f approached in a more efficient and professional way. Charity and assistencialism are not enough anymore and many youngsters are helping to dispel the no:?:arfhty=a?i,o:u:n:;t::r;#s:I:efjgi#onp3eT:g!h:eaphyF#: tion that volunteerism is for retired people. RM CA Los Angeles, CA 50536-- Los Box 50536 P.O..Box to: P.O.. mall to: Send mall Send 90050-0536 90050-0536 Ado/Editorial: 255-8062 (323) 255-8062 Ads/Editorial: (323) 257-3487 (323) 257-3487 Fax: (323) Fax: Brazzi./ http://www.brazzil.com line: http://www.brazzil.com Brazzi/ on line: E-mail: E-mail: brazzil@brazzil.com brazzil@brazzil.com Publisher Mello Rodney Me//a Editor: I?odney andEditor: Publisherand Assistant Bittencourt LedaBi.#encourf Editor:Leda AssistantEditor: Bondo Wyszpo/ski. Review: Bondo Book Review: Wyszpolski Book

Cover Brazilians learn how to be a volunteer Cover by Aylan Mello

Contents

• • • • • • g7

politics of The politics Behavior Behayt.or The of striptease striptease of Antonio fall of The fall Politics The Po/;ti.cs Ant6nio Carlos Carlos Magalh~es Magalhaes 500 the lndy at the all at get itit all Brazilians get Sports Brazilians Indy 500 Sports books of books market of busy market Rio's busy Culture Rio's Cu/luna crisis from the Profiteering from Politics Profiteering Po/jti.cs the crisis crisis for energy blame for to blame Who to energy crisis Economy Who Economy Brazil? in Brazil? invest in Electricity Who E/ecfri.c/.fy Who wants wants to to invest

2 2

Criticism Stool Crt.fi'ci.sin Stooltest: test:just justwhat whatthe the doctor doctor ordered ordered

US the US to the Brazil to Comparing Brazil Analysis Comparing Ana/ys/.s

2 34

Borim Dario Borim by Dario ~gua..."by loucos, aa6gua.„" "Osloucos, Story "Os ShortStory Short

•

our poverty for our Opinion No poverty Opjni.on No excuses excuses for

Travel 7+awe/

Golden Golden towns towns of of Minas Minas Gerais Gerais

Music Andr~ Musi.c Andie Mehmari, Mehmari,24, 24,aamusic musicgenius genius

Frommer Marcelo Frommer for Marcelo Rock isis crying crying for Obituary Rock Ob;fuary

Profile Pro ff/a Vamberto Vamberto Morais, Morais, the the Brazilian Brazilian guru guru

Bahia game inin Bahia race game the race Special Playing Playing the Specfa/

Gilman Bruce Gi./man Editor:BrLice Music Editor: Music Biazll A/vim MartaA/vi.in Chief:Maria BureauChief: Brazil Bureau E-mail: mltdalvim@yahoo.com E-mail: mltdalvim@yahoo.com

6 Rapidinhas Rapidinhas

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wot. BRAZZIL - JUNE 2001

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First there were the caras-pintadas Firsttherewerethecczrcrs-pj.7z/crdas faces), those those students students who who in in (painted faces), (painted 1992 painted their faces, often in the 1992 national flag flag colors, yellow-green national yellow-green colors, to to in the govagainst corruption govprotest protest against corruption in the ernment of ofthen then President President Fernando Fernando ernment Coll or de Mello. Nine years later their CollordeMello.Nineyearslatertheir heirs are are more more irreverent irreverent and and more more heirs they are are the the bw#dos-pe/¢Jas bundas-peladas risqu~: they risque:

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(naked but-ts) who have gon-e to the who have gone to the (naked butts) streets in in Brazil Brazil to to demand demand morality morality streets from politicians. To convey their messages messages they they are are lowering their pants and politicians. To convey their lowering their pants and from and its its mistakes. mistakes. government and mooning government mooning First were the men in Brasilia, who on May23 let their pants down. In the federal FirstwerethemeninBrasilia,whoonMay23lettheirpantsdown.Inthefederal capital, the the bc¢„drs-pe/¢t/as bundas-peladas directed their derrieres to the National Congress Congress capital, I building while congressmen were voting to open a process to expel from the senate buildingwhilecongressmenwerevotingtoopenaprocesstoexpelfromthesenate Antonio Carlos Magalh~es, the once all powerful chief from Bahia state, andJos6 and Jos~ Ant6nioCarlosMagathaes,theonceallpowerfulchieffromBahia Roberto Arruda. Arruda. Both Both ended ended up beforethe the process could move move ahead. ahead. resigning before process could Roberto up resigning The next day, Carla Santos, 21, the president ofUbes (Uniao Brasileira de Estudantes-Brazilian Union of Students) Thenextday,Carlasantos,21,thepresidentofubes(UniaoBrasileiradeEstudantes~Brazilianunionofstudents) went a step further: she left all her clothes on the the round the went the lawn la`un facing facingthe theCongress Congressand, and,naked, naked,entered enteredaamoat moatbuilt builtaaround congress with the purpose to avoid that demonstrations gottoo close to the building. She sang the national anthem, shouted congresswiththepurposetoavoidthatdemonstrationsgottooclosetothebuilding.Shesangthenationalanthem,shoute slogans against the President, and ran on the slogans the lawn. lawn. Over Over Carla's Carla's naked naked body, body, there there were were short short protest protestmessages messages like likeCPI CP (Parliamentary Committee Committee Enquiry) Enquiry) and and Out Out FHC, (Parliamentary FHC, which which is is an an abbreviation abbreviation for for Fernando Femando Henrique Heurique Cardoso. Cardoso. BottomBottomless, she she semicovered semicovered her herbreasts breastswith withaaUbes' Ubes's Her flag. Her s flag. lasted close close to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. exposition lasted Carla has become anovemigivcelebrityafte an overnight celebrity after her naked act. She was having aa hard hard time time to accommodate accommodateall all the the rrect. She for interviews and had to deny several times that she uestsforinterviewsandhadtodenyseveraltimesthat quests had received and accepted an invitation to pose in the nude hadreceivedandacceptedaninvitationtoposeinthermde for Brazilian Playboy. Born in Rio Grande do Sul, the stuforBrazilianP/ap/bay.BominRioGrandedoSul,thestudent leader is is a member member of of the PC do B (Communist Party Party ent leader 8 (Communist of Brazil). Brazil). It's It's been beenaayear andaahalf halfnow now that that she she interinteryearand of last year of high school to dedicate dedicate herself herself year of high school rupted her last exclusively to the activities ofher party and of the students exclusivelytotheactivitiesofherpartyandofthesfudents union she she presides. presides. union Santos explained her disrobing later: "The body is also Santosexplainedherdisrobinglater:"Thebodyisalso form of of expression. Aren'twomen women taking their clothes clothes taking their expression. Aren't aa form off for for other other things? not be be naked naked for for the country?" things? Why Why not country?" off She also guaranteed that she had her family's for family's backing backing for She the bawdy protest: "My of my attitude. They certainly would feel sad ifl if Igot naked to to pose for aa male male "My parents parents approve gotnaked approved of pose for the magazine, but magazine, but for for aa good good cause, cause,the thefight fightfor forthe thecountry, country,there's there'sno noproblem." problem." "The irreverent, be be it it taking taking off off the the clothes clothes or or lighting lightingup upcandles," candles,"says saysJuremar "The idea idea is is to to look look for for something Juremar dde something irreverent, Oliveira, directorofthe Ubes. "What we want is to show our indignation caused by a situation ofincertitude facing young Oliveira,directoroftheUbes."Whatwewantistoshowourindignationcausedbyasituationofincertitudef was an irreverentactthatcalledattentiontoourcriticism. irreverent act that called attention to our criticism." people." For Oliveira, Carla's protestwastherightthingtodo: "Itt was people."Foroliveira,Carla'sprotestwastherichtthingto have been been frequent in Brazil Brazil those those ddays. There's no lack lack of ofcauses. causes. High-school High-school and and college college studen students protests have frequent in here's no Street protests International against the ln ational Monetary Fund intrusion in Brazil, Brazil, against against corrupcorru have been staging marches to demonstrate against tion in government and private private sectors, sectors, against against President President Fernando Femando Henrique Heurique Cardoso, Cardoso, and and more morerecently recentlyagainst againstthe the threat of widespread electrical blackouts in the country. To call attention to their threatofwidespreadelectricalblackoutsinthecountry,Tocallattentiontotheir gripe everything everything is game: to gripe is game: to carry carry effigies effigies of of the the object object of of their their protest, protest, light li candles, dress candles, dress as as clowns, clowns,bare bareititall. all. In Salvador, state of Bahia, Bahia, the the protesters protesters had had to to face faceaa violent violentpolice policewho who didn'tspare bombs and and other other kinds kinds of ofintimidation intimidation to to disperse the students. students. In In spare bombs didn't disperse the other places, had a more places, however, however, like likeRio, Rio,Sao SaoPaulo Pauloand andBrasilia, Brasilia,the thepolice police had a more They didn't didn'treact reacteven even when when students students provoked them in in subdued participation. They provoked them Brasilia throwing water in their direction. The taking-your-clothes off stint isn't Brasfliathrowingwaterintheirdirection.Thetaking-your-clothesoffstintisn't getting too getting too many many converts, converts, however. however. In In aa protest protest in in Sao Sao Paulo Paulo students students limited limited to light up 2,000 candles at Pra~a da S~, in the heart of the capital. No one showed toligivup2,000candlesatpragadase,intheheartofthecapital.Nooneshowed there. privates there. his or her privates

APIDINHAS

BRAZZIL - JUNE 2001

iniaiini Magalh~es steps Once the most powerful man in the country, Antonio Carlos os Magalhaes steps scandals. down amid one of Brazil's most outrageous recent political al scandals. ERNEST BARTELDES

in men in corrupt men and cormpt Brazil has finally gotten rid of one of the most powerful and the country's recent history. After another political scandal threatened to destroy his political career, Bahia state senator Antonio Carlos Magalh~es :egrdete°dd£SFt:g agreed to step down and renounce to his term before a Congressional probe kicked :ed him himoutouta move that would bar his political rights up to 2009, that discovered that It all started when an investigative report by lsto E magazinee discovered onto hacked onto Antonio Carlosdubbed "Mean Tony"by his fellow Baianos-had -had hacked about infonnation about the Senate's computers, and had gained access to confidential itial information this case Luis Est~v~0, the congressmen who booted another senator last yearin thiscaseLuisEstevao, millions drained millions that drained who was caught amidst a huge money laundering scheme eme that of dollars in the state of Sao Paulo. comthe comto the access to According to the Brazilian press, Mean Tony had gotten Often access puter files that recorded who voted for or against Est~v~o's booting, and used the ao'sbooting,andusedthe all, After interests. After voters' list to blackmail other colleagues into his own political _olitical -__'_-_Tr-_-.-_-_.-r' interests. ---'' all ----, or she voted against voters' no representative would like the public to know that heorshevotedagainstvoters' wishes-to have a crook like Estev~o out of Congress inside a prison cell-and Tony knew that. released aa The scandal broke out last February when Brazilian /sto E magazine (http://www.terra.com.br/istoe) released Congressional series of investigative reports on the ways of the former President of Congress. The report led to aa Congressional investigation, and finally the truth started to come out. Celia Peres Borges Last April 19th, former Prodasen (the data processing service for Brazil's senate) director Regina ac6liaperesBorges former after by deposed to the House Committee for Parliamentary Ethics and finally admitted that she was sought after by fomer Congress government leader, senator Jose RobertoArruda(who also resigned his tenn ), who demanded her-using thenCongress declared that President Antonio Carlos Magalh~es's nameto hack into the Senate's electronic voting panel. She alsodeclaredthat she sent senator Arruda a list with the names of the services. voters and their votes on the Estev~o affair, and that Mean Tony had phoned her later to thank for her r services. The loud-mouthed senator, ofcourse, denied everything, but did acknowledge the existence ofa list that he"promptly "promptly destroyed". The national outrage was very vocal, and the public demanded Mean Tony either to leave Congress or to be voted out ofthe House. That, TI:EIEEIZEZSZIE2EIRE.IILIEEE2EEEECEEEE9 of course, was no simple task. After all, they were talking about a man who, with his ways, intimidated even Brazilian President Fernando Henrique Cardoso, and that had always been a key figure in the country's politics for as long as anyone could remember. Although many thought the President would interfere, he didn't-after 0phi Ln@ erreisenpee pniru du po.er ACM ACMataca ataca all, he didn't want his already bad image to get worse than it already was. . ..:: "' FHesenado, FHeSenado, 1, However, everyone knew that Cardoso owed a lot to Tony, including the constitutional amendment that made his 1998 reelection possible. poupa Jader e • poupaJadere - rAt the end, both Magalh~es and Arruda resigned, and avoided a trial Bahia voltaa Bahja voha that would not only throw them out of Congress through the back door, . eaor truncns et L.gr ccc but would also erase them from the nation's politics for a long time. Mean ....4 Tony's resignation might not mean the end. With his resignation, his po--:.£.7·;7 litical rights are intact, and that means that he just might swiftly return ., during the upcoming 2002 Congressional elections. Just a final note: I cooked up the term "Mean Tony" for my first column for the Greenwich Village Gazette almost two years ago, as a free transi ...4 lation for the Portuguese language "Toninho Malvadeza." I went on using the term, and months later I spotted it in the Washington Post. More recently, this alias was again used in an article published by The Week, rd .e e®--Izi-I-tbn --N. tt--===m.-I-.ve.«J ----bli4.4 • which is evidence of this column's steady readership. • f =='-=i=4.l=ll=r'6ell.o • #-~-.I === =..=.L=.

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=. ELtoL-=, Ernest Barteldes is an ESL, GED and Portuguese teacher. In ¥m.: zt EE: .=Ou..-. addition to that, he is a freelance writer who has been contributing to Brazzil since December 2000. His work has also been published by The Greenwich Village Gazette, The Staten Island Advance, The Staten Island Register, The SI Muse, The Villager, GLSSite and other publications. He lives on Staten Island, NY. He can be reached at ebarteldes@nycny.net

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Antonio Carlos Magalh~es's resignation speech in its entirety on line at http://www.brazzil.com. BRAZZIL 2001 JUNE2001 BRAZZIL- -JUNE

Indy 500 ant 5, and B! ad 10 1l rail is 1, and 2Z, and PHILLIP WAGNER

Never in the history of the "Greatest Spectacle in Racing" have Brazilians perfonned as brilliantly as at the 85 running of the Indianapolis 500. Indianapolis hosts, by attendance, the three largest sporting events in the world in the Indianapolis 500, the US Grand Prix and the NASCAR Brickyard 400; all at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway. And, in recent years, Brazilians have become a fixture at the 500, both as participants and as spectators. Brazilian flags have become increasingly recognizable there. In Brazil, of course, Fonnula One is really whatracingis racing is about; but even there Indy car racing isreallywhat has been making inroads, albeit slowly, among the fan base of racing enthusiasts. Five Brazilians, a record, were entered in the 33-car field ofthe 200 I Indianapolis 500, but only Paulistas Gil de Ferran ofthe2001 and H~lio Castroneves appeared to be serious contenders. De andH6lio( Ferran qualified in the 5 starting position, row 2, with a preFerranoua race qualification speed of 224.006 miles per hour (mph). Castroneveswason]vas was only ashade slowerat224.406, placing him Castroneves inrow row4. Reverse the order of those two and you have atatI 11 lth in 4. Re the top two finishers as Castroneves and de Ferran lit up the brickyard with Brazilian fireworks in a thrilling final laps finish that almost no one would have predicted. But even more surprising is the fact that Brazilians also finished 5, LOEdngthr¥OmD: 8 and 10 to provide 5 finishers in the Indy top 10, a feat almost beyond comprehension! almost Perhaps the stage was set when the pole sitter (top qualifier) exited before completing the 1 "lap. Perhaps the weather, credited with contributing to early race struggles that elimireditedwith nated Scott Goodyear, Goodyear, Al Unser Jr. and the heralded young ated Scott woman driver Sarah Fisher, played a role. Race announcers focused on the fact that cold tires made it difficult for anxious drivers to maintain control in the early going. The Brazilians, to a man, showed extraordinary patience and persistence as they moved up the field and avoided elimination by maintaining focus and control of their "rockets on wheels". Well behind de Ferran and Castroneves in qualifications were Bruno Junqueira of Belo Horizonte, Airton Dare of Bauru and Felipe Giaffone, another Paulista. They had qualified for the race race ln in the 20, 30 and 33" (last) positions respectivelyalthough although_ th?ir their qualifying speeds of 224.208, respectively 222.236and and221 221.879 bad underscored the fact that the en222.236 tire field was was competitive. Everyone was expecting a "tight ire field race", although the odds makers were making it clear that a limited number ofdrivers were likely to emerge with any real chance of winning. De Ferran and Castroneves were among the favorites at pre race odds of 6:1 and 7:1, respectively. Junqueira, although only able to qualify at the 20 position was granted 40:l odds. But Dare and Giaffone were coming in at 200:1 and 600:1. De Ferran, in his only previous race at Indianapolis Indianapolis in in 1995, hedfmish had finished 29. Dare was 25 last year. Castroneves, Junqueira and Giaffone were all India500 "rookies". A cousin ofGiaffone, Affonso, was napolis 500 in polis in 1987 and finishednextto last. So what were Indianapolis in1987and the odds, then, that that these five would finish 2, 1, 5, 8 and \+, \r+*+*+l,, +`+-\-, _`_ 10 in that order? oth in that order? The story ofthe day for most Indianapolis racing fans was not that Brazilians finished 1-2, however, or even that Brazilians took 5 places in the top 10.Forreallndy fans the story zilianstock5 of the day was Roger Penske's triumphant return to India-

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as owner owner of of the cars driven driven by by napolis apolis as the cars Castroneves and de de Ferran. Ferran. In In 1995 1995 astroneves and Penske, enske, who who had had previously previously all all but but owned Indianapolis, failed to qualify a driver for the race. A subsequent :¥.8vdeinfd.i::ago.`i:,e:arAefutbosg:3'j£ highly publicized break between between th the Indy Racing League (IRL) and ChamIndyRacingLeague(IRL)andchampionship Auto Racing Teams (CART), pionshipAutoRacingTearns(CART), withwhichpenskeisaffiliated,left with which Penske is affiliated, left Indianapolis largely largely vacated vacated by by CA CART drivers+ Brazilians often make no disdrivers. Brazilians tinction CART and IR tinction between between CART and+:.r.``.',, IRL, .-'' _-.- _. .`.` I .--.which they refertosimplyas"Formula refer to simply as "Formula whiehthey Indy".Junqueira,Iikec Indy". Junqueira, like Castroneves and CART driver. Giaffone de Ferran, Ferran, is a CART and Dare race race in in the the IRL. IRL. But in the United States the CART-IRL debate among racing fans has been heated and the distinction is clearly drawn. The infusion of Brazilian talent into "Formula Indy" racing is becoming more and more apparent. Brazilian drivers are greatly respected and highly competitive. Brazilians may remember Castroneves and Junqueira for having competed in Brazilian Formula Three. De Ferran, who also drove in Formula 3000, competed in Formula Three in Great Britain. The colorful Dare began racing on jet skis and was last year's IRL "rookie of the year". Giaffone got his start in Brazilian Karting, which Junqueira once dominated with six championships. Notably absent from this year's race was Curitiba's Raul Boesel, who has competed in several previous Indianapolis 500s and finished 16 last year. Brazilian drivers, even in the United States, are characteristically, well, Brazilian. Who can forget that EmersonFittipaldi once performed the sacrilegious act of refusing the post victory bottle ofmilk in favor oforange juice, the "milk of Brazil." Castroneves revealed his Brazilianness in a different, but typically Brazilian way; through emotion. H~lio caught Indianapolis race fans completely off guard when he brought his car to a full stop before completing a traditional victory lap. Exiting the car, he leaped onto a chain link fence and exuberantly pumped his fist into the air. Large Brazilian flags could be seen waving among the crowd. Castroneves was signaling his race team to join him in the victory circle. He might just as well have been signaling all Brazil because, like Castroneves and the Roger Penske racing team, Brazil came up a big winner at the 200 I Inianapolis 500 dianapolis 500. The autho author, Phillip Wagner, is The aa resident resident or of lndiampolis Indianapolisand andaa long time contributor contributorto toBra Brazzil long time Visit Phillip's website Magazine. Visit Magazine. Phillip'swebsit athttp: http:Iittp://www.lei.net/ at http://www.iei.net/ ~pwagner/brazi]home.ht ~pwagner/brazilhome.htm

BRAZZIL BRAZZIL -JUNE - JUNE2001 2001

Culture ale

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I¢ to the Book Fair Take Me

It was on an upbeat mood that Cariocas staged from from I17 to crs (Rio (Rio residents) residents) staged 7 to 27 of May its 10 Bienal Intemaci Internacional do do Livro Livro (International (International Biermial Biennial of Books). After the 1999 downturn when the book industry sold 30 percent less Ormtum whenthebookindustrysold30percentless than the previous year, people are starting to go back to bookstores. According ingtogobacktobookstores.According to the Camara Brasileira do Livro (Brazilian of Books) 2000 was aa ilian Chamber of much better year with an increase ofl 2 percent percent in in the the number number of of books books pubpublished and of 15 percent in the amount of of books books sold sold in in Brazil. Brazil. This This meant meant aa revenue growth of 13 percent for Brazilian book publishers. publishers. The Rio Bienal was never so big. There were 808 exhibitors exhibitors (compare this ( compare this re 808 to the 4 54 from the 1999 edition), 1200 new books 120 authors ks were were released released and and 120 authors got in contact with their public. During the 11 days the exposition lasted there were 560,000 visitors, 70% ofeach bought at least a book. The event has become the biggest book fair, losing even to Sao Paulo, which also has its own book biennial. The Sao Paulo event put on last year had 800 exhibitors. The book fair came a long way. The first Rio Bienal happened in 1983. The event held at the Copacabana Palace Hotel had 86 exhibitors. In order to draw public and make the event the cultural event par excellence of the season, the Bienal organizers prepared a full calendar of seminars, conferences, and guaranteed the presence of 13 foreign writers and 107 national authors, among them some ofthe best-known Brazilian writers, including Lygia Fagundes Telles, Carlos Heitor Cony, N~lida Pion, Z~lia Gattai, Ziraldo, Celso Furtado, Luis Fernando Verissimo, Luiz Alfredo Garcia-Roza, Patricia Melo, Tony Bellotto, Antonio Torres, Ana Miranda, Milton Hatoum, Moacyr Scliar, Jo~o Ubaldo Ribeiro, Jos~ Roberto Torero, Marina Colasanti, S~rgio SantAnna, Eric Nepomuceno and poet Ferreira Gullar. Despite the improvement in book sales, reading in Brazil continues to be an activity reserved to a very narrow minority. The country has a 13 percent illiteracy rate among those who are 15 or older and from those who can read only 7 percent have the habit of reading. The high cost of books in Brazil is blamed in part for this situation. Publishers are accused of gouging the public, but they respond that they cannot sell cheaper before they are able to get larger printings. While France and the US, for example, sell in average 10 books a year per capita, a Brazilian buys a mere 1.9 book a year. Jfwe exclude the didactical works, this number falls to 0.9. There are only 2000 bookstores for a population of 168 million people, which means one bookstore for every 84,000 inhabitants. In the United States there are approximately 20,000 bookstores. French historian Roger Chartier, an expert in the history ofreading and book, who with Spanish writer Manuel Vazquez Montalban was the best-known foreign star at the Book Biennial, wasn't impressed with what he saw. "The multiplication of titles," he declared, "it's not necessarily an indication of publishing health. All over the world-and I don't believe Brazil is an exception-there's been a reduction of purchase of books by readers. Not a reduction in the number of books I sold, but in the percentage w. ' of copies bought by a A reader. Publishers have responded by multiplying titles so that they can draw readers for some theme or # author, this way compen'1 duetotothe the sating the losses es due fall of copies sold by title."

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There are 20 million volunteers working throughout throughout Brazil, Brazil, motivated motivatedby byreligious, religious, moral, or moral, or personal personal reasons, reasons, and andimbibed imbibedwith with ' LI •{!' . a /4 " the the spirit spirit of of generosity, generosity,citizenship, citizenship,participaparticipaI' ds tion, and and reciprocity. reciprocity. These These volunteers volunteers are are housewives, liberal housewives, liberalprofessionals, professionals,students, students, businessmen, gardeners, businessmen, gardeners,merchants, merchants,etc. etc.InIn short, they are common folks who have realized short,theyarecommonfolkswhohaverealized that volunteer work is an instrument, which can thatvolunteerworkisaninstrument,whichcan be used to relieve suffering and make this world beusedtorelievesufferingandmakethisworld a better place. Leilah Leilah Landim, Landim, aa professor professor at at the the Federal Federal University University of Rio Rio de deJaneiro, Janeiro,or orUFRJ, UFRJ,did didan an anthropologicalstudywhichdemonstratedthat anthropological study which demonstrated that ms . 1 22.6 22.6percentofBraziliansoverl8yearsoldrepercent of Brazilians over 18 years old rei ` served servedpartoftheirtimetohelp otherpeoplethat people that part oftheir time to help other were not in their immediate family. But But itit is not immediate family. involved that calls only the volume of people involved attention. The outline outline of of the volwork in the country is is unteer work changing. There are more youth actions. engaged in mutual aid actions. Businessmen/entrepreneurs are beginning beginning to stimulate their workers to apply their profesworkers sional abilities in activities the activities of ofthe third sector. At the same time, the thirdsector.Atthesametime,the with the the results results is is preoccupation preoccupation with modern volunvolunincreasing. increasing. The modem merely teer seeks to go beyond merely to a He/She seeks charity. giving giving to a charity. He/She seeks to turn tum the work more efficient and even more professional. "The volunteer "The volunteer work work is is very very is comcomsignificant to Brazil, if itit is pared to pared to other other areas," areas," comments comments 22 anthropologist. Of the 22 Close to 19 million adult the anthropologist. countries countries studied, studied, 28 28 percent percentof of Brazilians have become tired the population on average dedicates themselves to some type of of waiting for government help activity. In In France, France, the the average average activity. and have resolved to work remains aa little little above above that that of Brazil, Brazil, with with an an average average of23.4 of 23.4 themselves for the needy percent. Both, percent. Both, however, however, are are population. Brazilians that give much lower much lower than than that of the United States: 49 49 percent percent of donations without the help of North Americans are volunteers. "But, there there exists exists aa political "But, political assistance entities, is close to culture in which the society pre80 percent of the population. It cedes the state," state," observes observes the the reresearcher. This implies a feeling of searcher.Thisinpliesafeelingof is the poor that are most willing moreresponsibilityforsocialand more responsibility for social and to help. welfare than that in Brazil. public publicwelfarethanthatinBrazil. "During 500 500 years, the citizen "During years, the citizen taxes and transferred to the the paid paid taxes and transferred to KIM RICHARDSON State State the responsibility to take care of of public welfare and social problems," says problems," says Viviane VivianeSenna, Senna, of the Senna Institute. "Now anew Ayrton president type of conpresidentoftheAyrtonsermalnstitute."Nowanewtypeofconscience science is is arising, arising, in in that that civil civilsociety, society,businesses businessesand andState Stateall all feel co-responsible." Indeed, the way way to to establish establishpartnerships partnerships federal, municipal, between the government government ((federal, municipal,and andstate) state)and andthe the civil civil society depends a lot on who who is is in in power. power. In In some some cases, cases, it passes (ONGs) passes to the hands of non-goverrmental non-governmental agencies agencies (ONGs) to do what the government cannot. cannot.

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BRAZZIL BRAZZIL --JUNE JUNE 2001

Thestudyreachedl9,748,390people(overl8 Thestudyreached 19,748,390people(over 18 0,000 and who old) and yrs yrs old) who lived lived in in cities cities with with over over I10,000 inhabitants, that dedicated dedicated themselves themselves to to some some inhabitants, that form fomi of volunteer volunteer work, work, in inabsolute absolutenumbers. numbers.Half Half (21 perof the Brazilian population gives money (21 of cent) or material goods (29 percent). Summing up, cent)ormaterialgoods(29percent).Summingup, Brazilians that give donations without the help help of assistance entities, assistance entities, is is close close to to 80 80 percent percent of of the the population. population.

Adult Volunteers Close to 19 19 million million adult Brazilians have be-

come tired of of waiting for government government help and decided to work themselves for the needy needy popuCancer take do Cancer of the Hospital do lation. Volunteers of courses periodically to bettertheirwork, which will coursesperiodicallytobettertheirwork,whichwill helpthephysiciansbygivingemotionalsupportto help the physicians by giving emotional support to the patients. Edlaine Demucio, Demucio, 26 26years yearsold, old,who who patients. Edlaine of the of her time to the coordination of all of dedicates all dedicates Casa dos dos Meninos, Meninos, in inthe theoutskirts outskirtsof ofSo SaoPaulo, Paulo,states, states,"I"Idodo And the pediatrician want to change this because II want change things." And pediatrician Jocelio years old, old, has has almost almosthalf halfof ofhis hislife lifededidedi50 years Coelho, 50 Joc~lio Coelho, 21 years since he founded been 21 has been volunteerism. ItIt has to volunteerism. cated to with a professional friend the Social Assistance and Spiritual Social and Spiritual Assistance Group, in Santo Santo Antonio Ant6nio do doDescoberto, Descoberto,ininthe thecentral centralstate stateofof where he gives Goi~s, where Goids, gives free check-ups check-ups to to the the community. community. Feminina Against Rede Feminina the Rede of the is the weapon smile is The smile Against weapon of work gains volunteer work of volunteer 55 years of 55 Cancer. The tradition of gains years of modemappearanceswithmoreefficiency.For20yearsMagda modem appearances with more efficiency. For 20 years Magda Eg16eAngeliniJoyce,65yearsold,hasretracedthesameroute: Egl~e Angelini Joyce, 65 years old, has retraced the same route: four the from the the morning in the home in leaves home she leaves week she times aa week four times morning from neighborhood ofBrooklin, south of ofSao sao Paulo, Paulo,and andgoes goes Brooklin, in the south neighborhood of the adult to the Hospital do Cancer, where she she is ishead headof ofthe adult clinic. clinic. She is ready to go to work at 8:30, 8:30, wearing wearing her her pink pink apron apron to to coordinate a team of85 volunteers. With her colleagues, Magda coordinateateamof85volunteers.Withhercolleagues,Magda worksanaverageofeighthoursaday,withoutreceivingasingle works an average ofeight hours a day, without receiving a single cent,inordertomaketheexistenceofthehospitalpatientsless cent, in order to make the existence of the hospital patients less

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to solitary to and help help physicians physiciansfind findtheir theirrecords," records," solitary patients, patients, and Magda activities. DiscourDiscourin explaining about her activities. Magda describes, in agement voher vomake up not make do not words that do up her agement and tiredness are words cabulary. for continue working to continue for the strength ask for working for onJy ask cabulary. "I only strength to alongtime,"shesays,withpride,aboutbeingamemberofone a long time," she says, with pride, about being a member ofone oftheoldestvolunteergroupsinthecountry,theRedeFeminina ofthe oldest volunteer groups in the country, the Rede Feminina de Cancer. ao Cancer. Combate ao de Combate Idealized Carmen Prudente, Prudente, who who founded founded 55 years ago by Carmen Idealized 55 her husband, oncologist Antonio with her Cancer with of cancer the Hospital the Ant6nio Hospital of Pmdente, the Feminina became an essential piece of the Rede Feminina the Rede Prudente, the in Rede in the Rede "Carmen began of the hospital. "Carmen life of building the daily life daily began building 1946. to build build the the 1946. In that era, the object was to raise money money to hospital,inauguratedin1953,"thecurentpresidentoftheRede hospital, inaugurated in 1953 ," the current president ofthe Rede feit eati+a llt^tl i`ji`.i h^i!d Feminina, Maria Carraro Carraro de de Moraes, Moraes,explains. explains. Liana Maria Feminina, Liana With of the thevolunteers volunteershas haschanged. changed.Today, Today, With time, the work of they to emotional support ofeverything. little of do aa little give emotional everything. They they do support to They give the people in inexams, exams,distribute distributecrackcrackthe patient, accompany sick people ers receives. and coffee, and recycle donations that the entity receives. ers and All "Our slogan have aa common mark: a smile. "Our activities have ofthe activities All of slogan is the hospital hospital there therecannot cannotbe besadness," sadness,"explains explains is happiness, in the Magda. Magda. Many do the Hospital entered the she entered since she Many things changed since Hospital do Cancer tine, through friend. invitation from a friend. an invitation Cancer for the first time, through an ``The integration of and the physicians and with the volunteers with the volunteers of the "The integration

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Magdasays. Allof ofthe the volunteers volunteers of ofthe the Hospital do says.All Hospital do proved,"Magda proved," Cancer take courses, periodically, to improve the quality oftheir Cancertakecourses,periodically,toimprovethequalityoftheir work. work. And,ififit on the the plans of of the depends on And, it depends the president of of the the Rede, Rede, 2001 will will be be aa year of new new accomplishments. In February, year of February, aa accomplishments. In 2001 was launched launchedto toincrease increasethe thenumber numberof ofvolunteers volunteers campaignwas campaign in the the Hospital do Cancer, Cancer, with with the the assumption that the the volunvolunHospital do assumption that in teer does not necessarily need to goto an institution, but can work teerdoesnotnecessarilyneedtogotoaninstitution,butcanwork homeor orininhisther his/heroffice. office. atathome Liana explained her idea, idea, in in tune tune enough with the the modem modem explained her enough with Liana ofvoluntary voluntary work, work, which which requires concepts of concepts requires efficiency, efficiency, orgaorganization, and even, a certain dose ofprofessionalization. "Many nization,andeven,acertaindoseofprofessionalization.``Many other things can be done, besides taking care of the sick; people otherthingscanbedone,besidestakingcareofthesick;people can be useful using their professional experience." One example canbeusefulusingtheirprofessionalexperience."Oneexample the most most recent recent public of the the entity, realized with with public campaign entity, realized campaign of isis the volunteerwork workby byprofessionals. professionals. volunteer

Volunteers Religious Volunteers Religious Leilah Landim, Landim, who who in in partnership with Anthropologist Leilah partnership with Anthropologist sociologistMaria MariaCeli CeliScalon Scalonanalyzed analyzedthe theresults resultsof ofthe theIBGE IBGE sociologist Brasileiro de de Geografia BrazilianInIn(lnstituto Brasileiro (Instituto Geografia ee Estatistica Estatistica-Brazilian stitute of ofGeography and Statistics) concluded that that it it is is Geography and Statistics) study, study, concluded stitute the religious institutions and social assistance that monopolizes thereligiousinstitutionsandsocialassistancethalmonopolizes the majority ofthe the volunteers. volunteers. Over Over half majority of half(57 percent) participarticithe (57 percent) in some tied to churches, and other pate activity congregations, pateinsomeactivitytiedtochurches,congregations,andother entities of ofaa religious nature. Other Other 17 17 percent are distributed distributed religious nature. percent are entities in asylums, orphanages, and nurseries. The Pastoral da Crian~a, inasylums,orphanages,andnurseries.Thepasfora/darcrj.cr#fa[, ofthe the Catholic Catholic Church, Church, is is one one of of the the good of the the good examples examples of of ofvolunteer volunteerwork. work. The The dedication dedicationto tosaving thelives lives practice of savingthe practice of child's malnutrition allowed the pastoral to be nominated for ofchild'smalnutritionallowedthepastoraltobenominatedfor the Nobel Nobel Peace Peace Prize Prize in in 2001. 2001. the Still, according according to to the the study, Still, study, the the rest rest of ofthe theBrazilian Brazilianvolunvolunteers dedicate dedicate themselves themselves to teers to the the health health areas, areas, education, education,the the defense ofhuman rights, and community action. But what brings defenseofhumanrights,andcommunityaction.Butwhatbrings so many many people to find find time time and and disposition to do do volunteer volunteer people to disposition to so work? The The study revealed that that instead instead of of money, volunteers study revealed money, volunteers work? found other other forms forms of ofretribution: retribution: found ``It is the the desire desire to to work. work. The The satisfaction "It is satisfaction to to know know that that II can can someone in in need. need. It It is is not not money money that help someone help that pays," pays," guarantees guarantees Queiroz de de Carvalho, Carvalho, 36, Cristhyne Queiroz Cristhyne 36, who who has has worked workedas asaavolvolunteer since childhood. "What me for work is the the pays my unteer since childhood. "What pays me for my work is satisfaction of ofothers." others." "When "When aa person tells of oftheir their situations situations person tells satisfaction having improved, it satisfies me," says librarian Narda Paula hMa:nind%sj,m4Er,°vvoe,:'njtte::tis:'£SA¥:::isri?,Sa'jfroa#hrt¥idvaesp::::

forminto intothe thelargest andmost mostsuccessful successful exanple exampleofofvoluntary voluntary largestand fom service in Brazil. The battalion of 145,000 volunteers counts on serviceinBrazil.Thebattalionofl45,000volunteerscountson the financing of the Ministry of Health and also of the Ministry thefinancingoftheMinistryofHealthandalsooftheMinistry ofEducation.Togiveyouanidea,todayover80percentofthe Education. To give you an idea, today over 80 percent of the of ofthe thePastoral Pastoralcomes comesfrom fromthe thetreasury treasuryof ofthe thefederal federal budgetof budget contributionsfor forthe the Relatively inexpensive inexpensive contributions government. Relatively government. oncethe thearmual annual budget ofthe the entity Union,once budget of entity equates to the cost Union, ofmaintaining functioninghospital for108 108days. days. singlefunctioning hospitalfor maintainingaasingle of "We "Weare areconvinced convincedthat thatthe the public here or or in in whatwhatpublic power, power, here ever place, will not not be be able to reach everyone. place, will ever everyone. For this this reason, reason, suchas asthis thiswith withthe thefederal federalgovernment governmentand andthe the partnershipssuch partnerships Pastoral are are fundamental," fundamental," observes observes Osmar Osmar Terra, Pastoral Terra, executive executive secretary ofthe Active Community ( a program that contributes secretaryoftheActivecomlnunity(aprogramthatcontributes diversesocial socialactions actionsin inthe thepoorer ofthe thecouncounmunicipalitiesof poorermunicipalities diverse with the the participation ofthe the community community and and of of the the try, always participation of always with try, organizations. non-governmental organizations. non-governmental Thefounders foundersof ofthe thePastoral Pastoralalso alsodeserve deservecredit creditfor forthe theway way The their work. work. In In 1983, 1983, amidst amidst critics critics from from within they organized organized their they and from from outside outside the the Church, Church, they they began began the entity taking into and account aa very particular characteristic account characteristic of ofthe theBrazilians-the Brazilians-the forceofthe of theredes redesdedeso/I.dairJ.edade solidariedade (solidarity networks) made made force (solidarity networks) offamily members and friends. Today, 90 percent of of the up of family members up volunteers of ofthe the entity entity live live in in the the pockets ofpoverty ofthe pockets of poverty of volunteers the As strange strange as as that that seems, seems, the disadvantaged populacountry. As country. tionisis more more capable ofhelping thepoor ofthe the country than the the helpingthe poorof capableof country than tion middle or orupper classes. upperclasses. middle to the the study done by 1998, the populastudy done by Ibope lbope in 1998, According to According tionthat that receives receivesbetween betweenone oneand andtwo two minimum minimum salaries salaries gives gives tion 3 .6 percent of their income, compared with 0.8 percent of those 3.6percentoftheirincome,comparedwitho.8percentofthose thatCam earn over 20 minimum salaries. One of the explanations for explanations for that ofthe this altruism altruismisis rightly the redes redesde deso/j.dari.edade. solidariedade. The The friends friends rightlythe this and family members help where they can those in the most need. andfamilymembershelpwheretheycanthoseinthemostneed. As the privation privation is As is more, more, the the demand demandfor forassistance-with assistance-with or services, services, such such as as to help build a house or dig a water money or money water well-isalso alsogreater. greater. well-is Andr~ia Oliveira, 25 years Andr6ia years old, old, aa volunteer volunteer of ofthe thePastoral Pastoral in Brasilia, Brasflia, is is an an example of how being example of in being close close to to the the reality reality of of awakens a social conscience. An inhabitant of poverty poverty awakens a social conscience. An inhabitant of Sul, she she goes once a month month to the Taguatinga Sul, Taguatinga the Ch~cara Chacara Santa Santa Luzia, a squatter area next to the city of Ceil~ndia. She does this Luzia,asquatterareanexttothecityofceilindia.Shedoesthis with four other friends. All ofthem work or study, and two have withfourotherfriends.Allofthemworkorstudy,andtwohave children. They Theyare arefar farfrom from being beingpart ofthe the elite elite of ofthe the capital. partof capital. children. But ... 68 malnutritioned malnutritioned chilchilthey make But. . .they make it it aa point to help the 68 dren who who live live in in the Chacara Ch~cara Santa Santa Luzia., Luzia. dren

Mendes, 44, volunteer from Arco-Iris, a group that gives care

to people infected with with AIDS. AIDS. people infected to Millions of ofpeople suchas asthe thephonoaLjdiologist peoplesuch phonoaudiologist Cristhyne Cristhyne Millions and the the librarian librarian Paula Paula Mendes Mendes find find time time to to donate donate their their time time and and talents to whoever needs it. It is not necessarily people with andtalentstowhoeverneedsit.Itisnotnecessarilypeoplewith more time available that dedicates their time voluntarily. "There moretimeavailablethatdedicatestheirtinevoluntarily."There are busy people that want to contribute. People with a lot of free arebusypeoplethatwanttocontribute.Peoplewithalotoffree time end end up ivia Volker, up doing time doing nothing," nothing," affirms affirms 01 Olivia Volker,the thetechnitechnical head head of of the the Volunteer Volunteer Center Center of ofthe the Federal Federal District. District. cal Ofthe group, the pediatrician Joc~lio Coelho is the only one Ofthegroup,thepedia°tricianJoceliocoelhoistheonlyone that does does not not state state that that he he is is religious. "I am religious. ``1 that amspiritualistic, spiritualistic, only. only. But other have religion," he states. According to the physicians Butotherphysicianshavereligion,"hestates.Accordingtothe study of Ibope, the practitioners of a religion are the most likely studyoflbope,thepractitionersofareligionarethemostlikely to give. Around 53 53 percent ofthe the weekly weekly frequenters frequenters of of some some percent of give. Around to religious cult give donations. The proportion falls to 39 percent religiouscultgivedonations.Theproportionfallsto39percent between those that participate in the meetings a few times a year. betweenthosethatparticipateinthemeetingsafewtimesayear. It is is the the poor that are are most most willing willing to to help. help. Pastoral Pastoral shows shows poor that It the force force of ofthe ofsympathy sympathy and and gives gives example example of of adadplaces of the the places ministration. Who the least, gives the most. M~rio, with gains ministration. Who gains the least, gives the most. Mario, with and S~rgio S~rgio, and Sergio, S5rgio Luiz, Luiz, of ofthe thegroup groupAttitude: Attitude:"What "Whatunites unitesus us is the the love love of of the the cause. cause. Our Our example example should should be be followed." followed." is The Pastoral da Crian~a belongs to the Catholic Church. But Thepastoraldacriancabelongstothecatholicchurch.But not only with the ofreligious did the the entity transcharity did only with entity transnot the spirit spirit of religious charity 12 12

Youth Volunteers Volunteers Brasilia has an army ofwell-intentioned youth. The research Brasiliahasanarmyofwell-intentionedyouth.Theresearch ofKanitz and Associates, a consulting firm, reveals that the city's ofKanitzandAssociates,aconsultingfirm,revealsthatthecity's in volunteer volunteer work work is is below below the the national national youth participation participation in youth average, which is 55 percent. percent. In In compensation, compensation, 70 70percent percentof ofthe the adolescents of of the the federal federal capital can dedicate dedicate themthemcapital say say they they can adolescents selves to social action on the weekends. The research research shows shows that that selves the percentage ofyouths in the the country that is is willing to dedidediyouths in country that willing to percentage of the mornings or or Sundays to volunteer volunteer work work is is 68 68 Saturday momings Sundays to cate Saturday That is is an an excellent excellent number, number, since since four percent. That percent. four years years ago ago the the 48 percent. only 48 percent. statistics were only The group Atitude is is one one of ofthe examples of of youth involveinvolvegroup Atitude The ment in the Federal District. Formed three years ago, the project mentintheFederalDistrict.Formedthreeyearsago,theproject is an effort to help disseminate information to prevent the spread isanefforttohelpdisseminateinformationtopreventthespread of AIDS. The group already put this work into action together of least 15,000 with at least 15,000 youths youths enrolled eurolled in in public public schools schools of of the the Federal District. For the people of Atitude, Atitude, volunteerism volunteerism is is to to "People have the impression that volunteer be taken seriously. "People work is something random, sporadic, careless and irresponsible. workissomethingrandom,sporadic,carelessandirresponsible. not: people study But it is not: study and and work work for for this," this," said said Sergio Sergio de de C~ssio, one of the members members of the Cassio, the group group to to daily daily Correio Correj.a BRAZZIL --JUNE JUNE 2001 BRAZZIL

to the third sector. sector. Braziliense. Brazilieuse. the volunteers volunteers become become younger younger and and more more Together, the The three volunteers of Atitude lost track ofhow many times ThethreevolunteersofAtitudelosttrackofhowmanytimes In the of Dora L~cia Breener, opinion presiprofessionalized. In they needed to take from their wallet the money spent on bus professionalized. the opinion of Dora Ldcia Breener, presiBrazilian-Israelite Union ofSocial Well Being (Uniao dentoftheBrazilian-IsraeliteunionofsocialwellBeing(Uniao and work "Many people give aa mountain passes and passes work material. material. "Many people give mountain of of dentofthe Brasileiro-Israelita do Bern Estar Social, or Unibes ), this is good excuses for not being a volunteer. But our example should should be be Brasileiro-IsraelitadoBemEstarsocial,orunibes),thisisgood longer enough to have have good desires followed. What unites us is is the the love love of of the the cause," cause," says says volunvolun- for the third sector. "It is no longer institutions," she she says. "It is is necessarry carry the institutions," says. "It necessary teer Mario Rocha. The group Atitude uses art to conquer their to successfully carry to organize them according to business principles." During three months, the volunteers work in the target. public public target. During three months, the volunteers work in the "It is possible to be a volunteer as far as the imagination "It is possible to be a volunteer as far as the imagination schools and discuss with the youth themes about health and Bruno Ayres, says Bruno Ayres, the behavior. The theater, or or pemits," graffiti, permits," says behavior. The students studentsuse usemusic, music,painting, painting, theater, graffiti, the coordinator coordinatorof ofthe thePortal Portaldo do Voluntario (the internet site) and one of Voluntario of the creators of of the poetry, to poetry, to show show what whatthey theylearned. leaned. RedeVolunt~rios. "People need to be volunteers at home, in their Andtheydoleam.Abouttheirbodies,abouteachother,and And they do learn. About their bodies, about each other, and Redevoluntdrios."Peopleneedtobevolunteersathome,intheir school,ininevery everyplace," place,"says says Milu Vilela, Milu Vilela, neighborhoods, ininschool, even sex education. education. ``Girls "Girls start to learn that they need to touch neighborhoods, the International lnternational Year of of them felt sick about touching of the Volunteer touching them- from the Committee of the their own body. Many of selves. selves. But how can a person learn to use use aa condom condom without in Brazil. knowing themselves?" says says S~rgio S6rgio de de Cassio. Cassio. For For him, him, the the process, there there will will arise arise suspicions suspicions that that the the governgovernIn this process, knowing themselves?" volunteer volunteer work work is is an important to feel feel and and act act like a citizen. ment is stimulating the third sector in order to get out of of their important step step to "It makes me know know my neighborhood, myschool, and my city. own respousfoilities. the people people that that work work in in this this area, area, "It makes me my neighborhood, my school,and my city. responsibilities. Among the however, it is even though though they they can can The return is not financial. What is received in exchange makes however, is increasingly increasingly clear that even feel integrated in my my time," time," he he explains. explains. M~rio Mario Rocha Rocha goes goes provoke me feel in social provoke transformations transformations in social relations, relations, they they do do not not substisubstirole of ofthe State. Viviane Viviane Senna, Serma,president presidentof ofthe Ayrton farther. "What motivates people is anger. It It is disconcerting to tute the role the State. the Ayrton people is see the government unprepared to work with with the the problems problems of Senna Institute, notes notes that, that, while whilethe theinstitutions institutionsthat thatwork workwith with the population." of localized actions, it it falls falls to to the the governgovernvolunteers take care oflocalized The editor of of the Youth Media Media of of the the News Agency of the ment the formulation of Agency of of public politics politics to deal with large social Jovem da da Ag~ncia Ag6ncia de de Noticias dos problems. Childhood RIghts (Midia Jovem Rights (M{dia problems. Dj.re/./as da JarInfancia), /#/Z£#cj.cz), or Andi, Veet Vivarta, afflrms that the In Christmas Christmas of 1997, the shelter shelter Joo Joao Paulo Paulo II, 11,of ofPorto Porto Direitos or Andi, Veet Vivarta, affirms that the In 1997, the doors. Without money money to to continue continue supportsupportactivism is is aa form form of of giving to the the creative creative force force Alegre, youth activism giving space space to Alegre, closed its doors. youth of youth. "The boy stops performing the figurative role or ing its activities, it boysititwas wassheltering shelteringback back to tothe the of the youth. it sent the 33 55boys the work for the actions done by adults. He He receives receives recogni- place place they they had had come come from: from: the the streets. streets. But, But, when when the the commucommution for the actual force and capability to contribute contribute to to the the nity discovered the closing of the the shelter, shelter, the the population population went went solution social problems," problems," she she analyzes. analyzes. to work. Immediately they began to receive donations and the solution to the social work performed performed by by youth youth serves serves following following day, day, the the shelter shelter reopened. reopened. For Vivarta, the volunteer work as an an example example for for the the authorities. authorities."The "Thecountry, country,now, now,has hasaa AmongthepeoplethatwereinterestedinhelpingwasMaria as the people that were interested in helping was Maria Among collection ects that succeeded succeeded and Johannpeter, an idealist idealistand andfounder founderof ofparceiros collection of ofgood good proj and can can very well be Elena Pereira Johann projects Parceiros peter, an implemented," he says. Such Such successful successful actions actions contribute contribute to to Voluntarios, an ONG ONG that that is is dedicated dedicated to to establish establish contact contact Voluntarios, an increasethenumberofyoungstersinterestedininvolvingthemincrease the number of youngsters interested in involving them- between people who want to work voluntarily and institutions volunteer work. According to that need this work. work. Upon Upon analyzing analyzing the thework workof ofthe shelter, she she selves in social causes by way of volunteer the shelter, consultant Stephen Stephen Kanitz, Kanitz, who who perceived the professor and and business business consultant that immediate immediate help was not not enough. was necesneceshelp was enough. ItIt was perceived that activities of the the third third sector sector in in the the country, country, 54 54 percent percent sary to interrupt the cycle of studies activities of successive crises. crises. of IntheopinionofMariaElena,whowasinterviewedbydaily of the youth want to be volunteers. volunteers. In the opinion of Maria Elena, who was interviewed by daily a E§/crdo S. Paulo, Pcrci/o,the theinstitution institutiononly onlywould wouldsurvive survive if if itit 0 Est ado de S. Businesses on specialized specialized volunteers, volunteers, that that would would help help stratestratecould count on gic planning, gic planning, control control the the distribution distribution of ofthe themoneys, moneys,organize organize Today,manybusinesses,mostlythesmallerones,withonly Today, many businesses, mostly the smaller ones, with only good marketing, ininthe good money money drives, drives,take takecare careof ofmarketing, theassistance assistanceofof one to ten workers, contribute in in some some way way to to the the national national children. In the following weeks, one workers, contribute weeks, she she dedicated dedicated herself herself principrinciAnna Peliano, Peliano, researcher researcher for forthe the pally voluntary effort. According to Anna pally to to the the search search of of these these specialists. specialists.Now, Now,three threeyears yearslater, later, (Instituto de de Pesquisas PesquisasEcon~micas Econ6micasAplicadas Aplicadas-Institute Institute the facts prove that she lpea (Instituto she was was right. right. Applied Economic Economic Researches), Researches), the the largest largest part part of of the the iniinithe ghost ghost of of crises, crises, with with the the of Applied The shelter now works without the tiatives of of the businesses (57 percent) attends to some specific help of76 volunteers, who work work in infour fourareas: areas:medical medicalservice, service, need of the the workers workers(giving (givingmedicine, medicine,school schoolmaterial, material,ororother other administrative administrative support, support, sociopedagogical sociopedagogicalsupport, support,and andfund fund of the thecommunity community(snacks (snacksfornurseries, for nurseries,for forexample). example). raising.Justfortheodontologicalneedsthereare13dentistswho stuff), or of raising. Just for the odontological needs there are 13 dentists who Since last last year, year, the the Ilpea about how how many many work with the kids, between 7 and 17 17 years. years. Since pea is doing a survey survey about accordingto toMaria Maria businesses maintain social actions in in Brazil. Brazil. The case of of the Shelter Joao Jo~o Paulo Paulo 11, II, according who for for the the most most part partparticipate participate in in volunvolun- Elena, gives an an idea of the the change change that that is is happening happening in in the the Just like people, who Elena, gives teerworkforreligiousreasons,businessesthatactinsocialareas teer work for religious reasons, businesses that act in social areas country. She states that the volunteer volunteer work is is part of of the Chrisdo so for moral reasons. reasons. Data collected by the lpea I pea show show that tian culture and exists in in Brazil since the arrival of of the Portu23 them, independent independent of ofsize, size,become becomeactive activeininasas- guese. 23 percent of them, "The difference now is the organization, the work to make guese."Thedifferencenowistheorganization,theworktomake they become become aware aware of the the poverty poverty of itmoreefficient,withbetterresultsforthesociety,"sheaffirms. sistance activities when when they it more efficient, with better results for the society," she affirms. "We are going beyond assistencialism, entering the territory of the community or of of certain certain workers. workers. "We are going beyond assistencialism, entering the territory of The number number of professionals willing to contribute their citizenship." knowledge to the institutions is also increasing. Many Internet lnternet sites have have been multiplying, multiplying, which which are are worried worried about about placing placing Kin Kim Richardson Richardson has has an an MA MA in in Latin Latin American American these professionals in in contact contact with the entities that that need need them. History from The The University of of Texas at Austin. In Alegre, the the Non-Governmental Non-Governmental Organization Organization called called He is currently currently working on his his PhD, PhD, In Porto Alegre, He is working on Parceirosvoluntdrios(Volunteerpartners)isgoingbeyondthis: Parceiros Volunt~rios (Volunteer Partners) is going beyond this: and State State Relations Relations in in NineteenthNineteenthresearching Church and Itisabletoobtainthroughagroupofalmostl00businessestrue contacted at It is able to obtain through a group ofalmost I 00 businesses true Century Brazil. Brazil. He He can be contacted "packages,"withprofessionalsofdifferentareas,offeringthem with professionals ofdifferent areas, offering them krichardson@mail.utexas.edu "packages," BRAZZIL BRAZZIL --JUNE JUNE 2001

13 13

sinceI Iwork workatataafast fastfood foodrestaurant. restaurant.They allseem seemmore more Theyall since family oriented, oriented, everyone seems to to encourage encouragepre-marital pre-marital family everyone seems sex(which (which II am the same, same, Sex am against) against) and and everyone everyone dresses dresses the regardlessofofage. age.One Oneofofny myffiends friendsremarked remarkedononthe theodd odd regardless wayAmericans Americansogle ogleher her'sexy" 'sexy'way wayof of dressing, dressing, which which she she way justnormal normal Brazilian Brazilian style. couldn't agree more. says,isisjust style. II couldn't agree more. says,

It's obnoxious obnoxious the the way way men men and and women women react react when when aa It's marriedwoman, woman, ororone onewith with aachild child walks walks down down the the street street married form-fitting clothes clothes that thatmake makeher hermore moreattractive. attractive.AmeriAmeriininform-fitting cansalways alwaysassume assumethat thatI Iam amsome someunmarried unmarried teenage teenage cans mother,while while Brazilians Brazilians think think II am am aa normal normal person and mother, person and havemistaken mistakenme meforforbeing Brazilian.Too Toobad badthe theAmeriAmeribeingBrazilian. have canshaven't haven'tcaught caughtononyet. yet. cans Vialut®rnet Internet Via

I'm not not an anexpert solving bad badsocial socialsituations situationsand and expertininsoMng l'm andhealth healthproblems, problems, but but II see see the thechance chanceinin such such hungerand hunger investmentsinininformatics. informatics.We Wecould couldonly onlyhope hopefor forthat thatnono investments onewill will misuse misusethis this promising whichwill will very very promising program, program,which one hardsince sinceBrazil Brazilisissuch sucha abig bigcountry countrywith with aa lot lot of ofspace space hard and"hands" 'hands' inin which which money moneycan can disappear. That'swhy whyI I disappear.That's and wishall allthe thebest besttotoallallthe thepoor poorand andhungry hungrypeople peopleofofthis this wish beautiful heaven heavenononearth: earth:Brazil. Brazil. beautiful VrabecINira Mira Vrth.c Fobo, Z.gr®, Zagre, Croatia Fcho, Cro.ha

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Congratulations, Brazz/./, Brazzil, you Congratulations, you have have gone gone over over the the 1,000,000 mark mark of of readers/hits readers/hits on on your 1,000,000 your most most awesome awesome web page. am sitting here reflecting the many manytrips trips toto page.I I'am sitting here reflecting the web Brazil..Rio, Amazonas, Amazonas, Nordeste, Brazil...Rio, Nordeste, Parati, Paratj, Belo BeloHorizonte, Horizonte,

havetotothank thankyou! youlI I have havebeen beenlooking looking for for aalist listofof I I have four-letterwords wordsused usedin inBrazil Brazilforfora along longtime. time. I I am am four-letter currently seeing seeing someone someonefrom fromBrazil Brazil and andI I never neverknow know currenfty what toto say say toto make make him him hot hot && steamy steamy inin bed. bed. And, And, what sometimesI Ihave havenonoidea ideawhat whatheheisistelling tellingme. me.So, So,your yourlist list sometimes was all all around around great. great. Thanks. Thanks. was

and so so many vistas, many places, places, people, people, foods, and foods,dance, dance,music, music, vistas, beaches,an an endless endlesslist listofoflife life experience experience in in the the extreme extreme beaches, zone. Brazzi'/ Brazzi/ and and the the music music on on www.connectbrazil.com www.connectbrazil.com zone. are aa great combo for for any any a/as//aphi./e Brasilophile or or saudades saudades greatcombo are Brasileiras. Brasileiras. JayW. M.Tronnoch® Trennoche Jay Kauai, Hawaii Hawaii Kauai,

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am joumalist journalist for for Voice Voice of of America America doing doing feature feature I I am storiesininBrazil Brazilforforone onemonth. month.I would I wouldlike liketotoknow knowififyou you stories couldrecommend recommendananexpert expertononthe thelinguistic/anthropologilinguistic/anthropologicould cal and and historical historical topic topic of ofPortuguese PortugueseininBrazil. Brazil. cal Nico Colomb.nt Colombant Nleo Via Intern.t Internet Vla

Hi from from Croatia! Croatia! Since Since I I visited visited Brazil Brazil last lastyear yearI I was was Hi verysurprised surprisedby bya aterrible terriblesocial socialsituation. situation. There There are are ofof very Los Angeles. CA 90050-0536

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with great great interest interest Phil Phil Mizewski's Mizewski's article article II read read with -Baianos that detailed dctailed the 'Baianos ofof the the World, World, Unite" Unite' that the lack lack of of political and economic power amongst the Afro-Brazilians.

political and economic power amongst the Afro-Brazilians. As an an Afro-American Afro-American II can can certainly certainly relate. relate. However However we we As Afro-Americans are arestill still srfuggling struggling for for economic economicand andpolitipolitiAfro-Americans cal parity hereinInthe the US. US. The The recent recentpresidential election parity here presidentialelection cal the flaws flaws in in the the election election process process and and equiphighlighted the equiphishlighted mentthat thatresulted resultedininperhaps perhapsthousands thousandsofofAfro-American Afro-American ment votes not not being being counted counted that that could could have have changed changed the the votes election outcome. outcome. Economically Economically aa disproportionate disproportionate numnumelection berof of our our children children are are being being raised raisedinin poverty. poverty. Our Our men men are are ber being locked locked up up inin prison an unfair system. prison by being by an unfair justice justice system. Despite all of our troubles I do think that Phil is correct when Despiteallofourtroubles1dothinkthatPhjliscorrectwhen hesays saysthat thatunity unitybetween betweenthe thetwo twogroups groupswould wouldcertainly certainly he be beneficial. beneficial. be myself plan plan on starting aa program program to to educate educateAfroAfroII myself on stardng Americans on on Brazil Brazil and us riave have discrediscreAmericans and Bahia. Bahia. Many Many of of us income that that could could be be used usedtotovisit visitBahia Bahia and andtotohelp help tionary income tionary drive tourism tourism there, there, but but Brazil Brazil remains an unknown unknown land land to drive remains an to most Afro-Americans. Afro-Americans. It's It's not not the perhaps most the homeland homeland but but perhaps the next next best best thing! thing! Lastly, Lastly, II believe believe that that Afro-Brazilians Afro-Brazilians the need to to speak with their their votes votes and and dollars. dollars. For speak with need For example, example, many US US companies companies have have only only responded requestfrom from responded toto request many the Afro-American Afro-American community community after after threats threats of of boycotts boycotts the were made. This i s a very powerful for achieving strategy were made. This js a very powerful strategy for achieving Moneytalks! talks!Also Alsothe theAfro-Brazilians Afro-Brazilians need need empowerment.Money empowement. to vote vote out out politicians politicians that that work work against against their their interest. interest. to

Celebrities need need to to get get onboard onboard and and tak talk the the need need for for Celebrities their interviews interviews and and perhaps music. change inin their perhaps music. change BrianCott®® Coffee Brl\n Via Intorn®l internet VI,

course many many reasons reasonstotogive the money the poorest give the money toto the poorest course families, which which suffer suffer from from hunger. hunger. Now Now you you write write about families, about computers for forthe themasses. masses.Will Will the the big big corporations corporations and and computers companies misuse misusethis thissituation situation for fortheir theirown own egoistic egoistic companies purpose and and profit? profit? The The use use of of PCs PCs and and software softwarewould would purpose only help help to to develop develop aa new new generation generation of of educated people, only educated people, who will will not not be be given given "everything 'everything on on the the plate". plate'. Instead Instead who thesenewcomers newcomerswill willhave havetotoput putsome somereal realeffort effortininjt.it. That That these would actually actually be be to to tlieir their advantage, 'cause the the challenge challenge would advantage, `cause will be be bigger bigger and and of of course coursethey would be bemore moremotivated. motivated. theywould will Here inin Croatia Croatia we we have have aa similar similar situation. situation. On On the the Here world contest contestofofinformatics, informatics, students studentsfrom frommy my country country win win world first place. place. It It isis necessary to mention mention that that these these pupils pupils first necessary to didn't have have the the conditions conditions of of rich rich nations, nations, not not to to mention mention didn't the equipment. equipment. Of Of course, course, some some of of them them have have their their own own the PCs at at home, home, but but they they are much older PCs are much older and and 'weaker" tweaker comparing to the PCs of kids from richest countries. The comparing to the PCs of kids from richest counties. The analogy can can also also be be seen seen in in the the situation situation of of students students analogy coming to to study studyinin bis big cities cities from from their their provinces. provinces. In In most most Coming casesthey theywill will be be more more successful successful students students when when comcomcases pared with with the the city city kids. these pared kids. Probably Probably that's that's because because these studentshave havenothing nothing to to lose lose and andthey they have haveno nochoice choice but but students to study. My example might sound sound trivial, trivial, but but l'm I'm sure study. My example might to sui.e many many would agree agreewith with me, me, `cause 'cause II think human mentalfty mentality would think that that human is the the same, same,no nomatter matterthe theculture cultureororreligion religion or or nationality. nationality. is

aboutit.it. I'm I'm an in Porto Porto Alegre Alegre and and happy about happy an English English teacher teacher in ofstudents studentsand andI I are aredoing doing aaproject projecton on"Informa"Informagroup of aa group tion about Brazil to the world'. The i d ea is to make them tion about Brazil to the world'. The idea is to make them aware ofof the the importance importance ofof leaming learning English English not not only only to to aware

communicate with with people but also also to to be be communicate people of of other other languages languages but able to to show show others otherswho whowe weBrazilians Braziliansare. are. So So far, far, Brazzi./ Brazzi/ able is one one of of the the best best sites sites we've we've found found due due to to its its updated updated and and is real information, information, showing real showing the the Brazil Brazilas as itit really reallyis. is. Besides Besides that isis one oneof ofthe thefew few sites sitesabout aboutBrazil Brazilwith with good good English. English. that can keep keep on on reading reading a/azz/'n Brazzil! CongratuCongratumy students II hope hope my students can lations to to the thestaff staffofofBrazzi'/. Brazzi/. lations Clarissa Rib.fro Ribeiro Chrlse.

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noticed that the trends trends inin behavior behavior you you show show in in II have have noticed that the your articles are very true. I have a lot of Brazilian friends, your articles are very rfue. I have a lot of Brazilian friends, 14 14

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In aa recent recent conversation conversation about about the the current, current, multi-faceted multi-faceted ergy In ergyscene: scene: his his opposition opposition to to the the privatization privatization of of FURNAS, FURNAS, hailed nationalists and supported by the left left quietly by old-style roller coaster ride Brazil finds itself in these days, covering roller coaster ride Brazil finds itself in these days, covering hailedbyold-stylenationalistsandquietlysupportedbythe as aa defense defense of of Brazil's "true "true interests", interests", as from aa serious serious energy crisis to to energy crisis everything from everything is aa major reason why the privatization major reason why the privatization is ofunresolved unresolved corruption corruption growing pile pile of aa growing didn't the distribution get past process a fonner cabinet member and close charges, charges,aformercabinetmemberandclose process didn't get past the distribution system. system. of President Fernando ally political political ally of President Fernando ofall all electricity electricity gengenEighty Eighty percent percent of Cardoso gave gave me me his his assessment assessment Henrique Cardoso Heurique erated in in Brazil Brazil is is still still churned churned out out by by erated ofwhy are the the way way they they are. are. ObviObviwhy things things are of inefficient state-run state-run compacompagenerally inefficient ous enough views to to anyone who's been been anyone who's enough views ous generally nies, which which have have received next to no innies, as they've evolved since since things as they've evolved following things following vestments in in recent bepartbevestments recent years-in years-in part Cardoso first firsttook tookoffice officeinin 1994: 1994: Cardoso "The cause itit was was thought the generating syscause thought the generating sys"The president refused to to draw draw aa line, line, president refused tem would would be be mostly now. mostly privatized bynow. tem privatizedby establish limits limits as as to to what what would would be be negonegoestablish No investments investmentsto to expand caNo expand generating generatingcatiable. He He thought he could could control control things things thought he tiable. Now, with with elections dialogue. Now, through dialogue. The present battle for for power pacity, aa recovering recovering economy economy that grew through elections apappresent battle power pacity, The 44 percent last year, year, and and aa privatization privatization percent last next year, proaching next proaching year, and and no no clear clear limits, limits, and and positions stems stems from from the the process for political reasons, go process delayed delayed for political reasons, go is advancing further and and further, further, advancing further everyone is everyone in explaining Brazil now now long way way in explaining why why Brazil more, usually demanding more, usually because always demanding always because fragmented nature nature of of Brazil's Brazil's aa long fragmented faces blackouts blackouts and and brownouts. brownouts. faces someone else else got more." got more." someone political system, Franco's This pretty well sums sums up how out outin in the the Franco's "resistance" "resistance"went wentwell well bebeup how pretty well This political system, where where parties parties ridiculous: he he actually sent units units of of yond ridiculous: the bartering that surrounds surrounds the the barteringthat actually sent open the open yond devoid of of ideology ideology proliferate, devoid proliferate, his his state's state'sMilitary Police to toFURNAS FURNAS Cardoso government has become, to a point MilitaryPolice Cardosogovemmenthasbecome,toapoint last year when talk talk of ofmoving ahead with with year when moving ahead where allies allies often often behave behave like like enemies, enemies, in in where no clear clear majority is won won at at the the last majority is no its privatization heated up, in a preposteritsprivatizationheatedup,inapreposterof not not being associated with with an an ununbeing associated hopes of hopes polls, and and party party loyalty loyalty isis about polls, about ousattempttoimplythathewasprepared ous attempt to imply that he was prepared when the the 2002 2002 elecelecpopular government government when popular tions come around. Meanwhile, to battle battle the the federal federal government overthe the opponents government over tions come as easy easyto tofind find as as the the extinct extinct to as facility necessary-with bullets to be be sympathetic to the the bulletsthat thatis. is. actually appear sympathetic to facility if ifnecessary-with appear to actually Dodo bird. bird. Dodo Make national cause, Make no no mistake, mistake, this is is politically monational cause, to toavoid avoidbeing beingaccused-as accused-as tivated to to the the hilt. hilt. It's It's always worth reretivated fomenting always worth especially the especially the left left often oftenare-of areutf fomenting membering trouble whenever the chance presents itself. membering that that Franco Franco threw threw the the sucker sucker troublewheneverthechancepresentsitself. ADHEMAR ALTIERl ALTIERI ADHEMAR It all all makes makes for for aa political minefield with with that forced forced Brazil Brazil to to devalue devalue its its political minefield punch that It punch currency in 1999, when he used the magic unpredictable consequences on a variety of .__ ___. currencyinl999,whenheusedthemagic unpredictableconsequencesonavarietyof word "moratorium" "moratorium"and andarmounced announcedhe he word fronts, including outcome of next including the outcome fronts, next would elections. would halt halt payments of state state debt debt to to payments of year's elections. year's Take the the current current energy situation, the federal federal government. No reason reason the energy situation, government. No Take which could could lead lead to to blackouts* blackouts* unless, unless, whyhewouldn'ttakeadvantageofthe why he wouldn't take advantage ofthe which current energy crisis-he has shown in currentenergycrisis-hehasshownin according to ANEEL-the federal elecaccordingtoANEEL-thefederalelecthe trical energy agency-a minimum 20 20 the past that his his personal come past that personal goals goals come trical agency-a minimum first. first. percent reduction is achieved in three of percentreductionisachievedinthreeof FrancoisatthecenterofperfectexBrazil's five regions, including Franco is atthe center ofperfect exBrazil's including the the industrialized Southeast. Southeast. To To of bartering run amok, amok, as deamples deamples of heavily industrialized heavily scribed by that fonnercabinet member scribedbythatformercabinetmember help deal with the crisis, the government helpdealwiththecrisis,thegovemment I1 spoke with. with. Considerthathe Considerthathe recently asked states outside the affected regions recently askedstatesoutsidetheaffectedregions re-joined to also also cut cut back, back, so re-joined the the PMDB, PMDB, and and is is openly openly to so their their energy energy sursurcampaigning could be be channeled channeled to to endanendancampaigning to be the party's party's presipresipluses could pluses areas. While state from dential candidate. At the federal level, dential candidate, At the federal level, governors gered geredareas.Whilestategovemorsfrom the federal federal government-allied the PMDB PMDB is is a government ally, the ally, and and the government-alliedPFLPFLlike Maranhao's Maranh~o's Roseana Samey, the fact fact Franco Franco isis now now one one of ofits memthe its memSamey, and and bers has has been been used used extensively the extensively by by the bers even from from Cardoso's Cardoso's own ownPSDB-like PSDB-like Par's Almir Gabriel, immediately proto win win concessions concessions from from PresiPresiparty to Pafa'sAlmirGabriel,immediatelyproparty tested, the left left wing dent Cardoso. In other words, "keep us dentcardoso.Inotherwords,"keepus tested, wing PT's PT's Governor Governor of of happy happy and and maybe we'll we'll keep Franco keep Franco Rio Grande Grande do do Sul Sulstate, state,Olivio 0livio Dutra, Dutra, out of of the presidential race". race". The The mesmesout He ananmagnanimous. He suddenly turned tuned magnanimous. seems to to be be working: PMDB sage seems nounced his his state state would would not not only only coopcoopworking: aa PMDB nounced member was was named named last last week week to to the the erate, but but strive strive to to cut cut back erate, back at at the the same same vacant Regional Development Minisvacant Development Minis20 percent level imposed for blackoutblackoutimposed for percent level try. try. threatened regions. regions. threatened The The PMDB PMDB isis also also the the party led by In terms terms of of political in" "cashing in" party led political "cashing by In Senator Jader Barbalho, recently Barbalho, the beats the always opporthough, nothing recently though,nothingbeatsthealwaysopporelected Senate Senate President President heaped with tunistic Minas Minas Gerais Gerais Governor Governor and and heaped with tunistic seriouscormptioncharges.Thelistinserious corruption charges. The list informer President, President, Itamar Itamar Franco, former Franco, who who` cludes hisunexplained unexplainednet net worth-r cludes his worth-or said his state-where major federal elecsaidhisstate-wheremajorfederalelecas some media outlets outlets like to say, say, his his trical generating facilities like FURNAS like to tricalgeneratingfacilitieslikeFURNAS "visible" net worthutfR$30 million are located-simply would not not participartici"visible" net worth-ofR$30 million located-simply would in the (about US$14 US$14 million). His salaries salaries promillion). His pate in (about pate the federal federal energy energy rationing rationing proanother gratuitous confrontation confrontation with gram, in gram, in yet yetanothergratuitous with Brasilia. Brasilia.This This from froma alifetime lifetimeininelected electedororappointed appointedpolitical politicalroles rolescouldn't couldn't was not Franco's Franco's first first "contribution" "contribution" to to Brazil's Brazil'stroubled troubledenen- possibly add up to that lofty total, most of it omitted omitted from from his his

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incometax taxreturns. returns.Barbalho Barbalhowon theSenate Senatepresidency part presidencyininpart income won the thanks to to aaquiet alliance with with the the federal federal government, government, which which quietalliance thanks aside its its former former main main ally, the PFL's PFL's Antonio Antonio Carlos Carlos ally, the pushed aside pushed The Barbalho-Magalh~es down-in-the-gutter battle Magalh~es. Magalhaes.TheBarbalho-Magalhaesdown-in-the-gutterbattle overthe theSenate Senate presidency whatbrought mostcorruption corruption broughtmost presidencyisiswhat over Barbalhointo intothe theopen. open. allegations against againstBarbalho allegations The Senate and its aftermath, which includes includes the the dispute The Senate dispute and its aftermath, which recentresignation ofMagalhaes to avoid avoid expulsion, expulsion, provides provides resignation of Magalh~es to recent additionalexamples excessivebackroom backroomgive-and-take. give-and-take. ItIt examplesofofexcessive additional was because the government grew tired of Magalh~es' demands, wasbecausethegovemmentgrewtiredofMagalhaes'demands, and his his willingness to attack attack the the government and President President government and willingness to and Cardoso whenever he didn't his way, that the the publicly get Cardoso publicly whenever he didn't get his way, that switchedsides sidesand andgot gotinto intobed bedwith withBarbalho Barbalhoand and governmentswitched government thePMDB. PMDB. ItItwould wouldnow nowappear thatthe themove moveamounted amountedto toaa appearthat the

Carlos Magalhaes wasn'tmuch much help before resigning, and is is help before resigning, and Magalh~es wasn't Carlos adding to the trouble now: under the partitioning of government addingtothetroublenow:underthepartitioningofgovernment allied parties that characterizes characterizes Brazilian Brazilian politics, politics, the the among allied parties that among hasbeen beenrun runby hisappointees since1994. I 994. Ministryhas byhis appointeessince EnergyMinistry Energy Now without without aa seat, seat, he's he's obviously under no no obligation obligation to to obviously under Now theirincompetence andits itscurrent currentconsequences. Even consequences.Even incompetenceand explaintheir explain foreign events are adding to the problem: the recent collapse of foreigneventsareaddingtotheproblen:therecentcollapseof hall during celebration in in Israel, followed followed by wedding celebration during aa wedding party hall aaparty thearrest arrest of ofthe the building building contractor contractor on on the the very very next next day, and the lastweek's week'sarrest arrestofformer of formerpresident CarlosMenem MenemininArgenArgenpresidentCarlos last have only made Brazilians Brazilians think of of the countless cases tina, have only made tina, cases of impunity involving high officials in similar domestic situations. impunityinvolvinghighofficialsinsimilardomesticsituations. For now, the c I ear and only winner from all ofthis is the leftFornow,theclearandonlywinnerfromallofthisistheleftPT. Its attempt to to launch launch aa parliamentary into wing PT. parliamentary inquiry inquiry into wing

which grabbed government corruption, grabbed headlines fromthe thefrying intothe thefire. fire. Being associatedwith with government fryingpan pan into Beingassociated corruption, which jumpfrom headlines for for months, months, jump aboutyet anothersad sad example oflimitless bargaining. broughtabout yetanother exampleof Barbalho, as damning evidence against him expands by the day, brought limitless bargaining. Barbalho,asdamningevidenceagainsthimexpandsbytheday, Last-minute government concessions "convinced" 20 members is only contributing to speed the downward slide ofthe Cardoso Last-minutegoverrmentconcessions"convinced"20members isonlycontributingtospeedthedownwardslideofthecardoso of to remove remove their their names names from from the inquiry Congress to inquiry request, government's approval ratings. of Congress govemment' s approval ratings. which brought the total number ofsignatures below the required Events since since the the Senate Senate battle battle indicate indicatethat thatsticking with whichbroughtthetotalnumberofsignaturesbelowtherequired stickingwith Events minimum. The inquiry request was thrown out, which made the wassimply notan an option for the the government either. minimum.Theinquiryrequestwasthrownout,whichmadethe Magalh~eswas simplynot option for governmenteither. Magalhaes Cardoso administration administration look guilty elsewould woulditit Once Magalhaes Magalh~es knew knew he he had had been been defeated, defeated, he he met met with with fedfed- Cardoso guilty as as sin-why sin-why else Once work so so hard hard in in the the back back rooms rooms to to avoid avoid being being investigated? investigated? eral prosecutors tosuggest ways inin which which their theirgovernment prosecutors to suggestways government work eral Further proof ofhow how things work in in Brasilia Brasilia isis the the fact factmany things work many investigations might implicate the President-an attemptto get Further proofof investigationsmightimplicatethePresident-anattempttoget back at at Cardoso. Cardoso. During one such such conversation, conversation, which which one one parliamentariansonlyincludedtheirnameonthatrequesttobe During one parliamentarians only included their name on that request to be back able to to "negotiate". From their their perspective, obviously itit was a prosecutor captured on tape, Magalh~es revealed his knowledge able "negotiate". From perspective, obviously prosecutorcapturedontape,Magalhaesrevealedhisknowledge ofthe the outcome outcome of ofaa secret secret Senate Senate vote, vote, in in what what became became known known gooddeal.Inapoliticalatmospherewherepartylinesdon'tcaITy good deal. In a political atmosphere where party lines don't carry of image the as the the "Senate "Senate Panel Panel Scandal" Scandal" (a (areference referenceto to the thevoting votingpanel panel any any weight, weight, what image the government government ended ended up up with, with, and and as that was He and another Senator, the PSDB's Jose whether the violated). left-wing whether the left-wing opposition gained strength for 2002, is that was violated). He and another Senator, the PSDB's Jose Roberto Arruda, Arruda, resigned when itit became became clear clear they would be nottheir theirproblem. resigned when problem..... they would obviouslynot Roberto be obviously The obvious obvious image from this this were were not not lost loston on the the PT PT image gains gains from kicked out out over over the the incident. incident. By By quitting and avoiding an exexquitting and avoiding an The kicked both can run for office in 2002 ... Paulo pulsion, by any analyst, by any means. It's most important economic Sao pulsion, both can run for office in 2002 . . . This ravenous battle for power and positions stems from the congressmanAloizioMercadante,andanotherpartyeconomist, congressmanAloizio Mercadante, and another party economist, Thisravenousbattleforpowerandpositionsstemsfromthe Guido Mantega, are now talking about drawing up a "minimum nature of of Brazil's Brazil's political system, where where parties fragmented nature political system, parties GuidoMantega,arenowtalkingaboutdrawingupa``minimum fragmented devoid of ofideology no clear clear majority is won won at at the ofeconomic economic priorities. Quoted by the daily O Estado ideology proliferate, majority is agenda" of priorities. Quoted proliferate, no a Esfado devoid the agenda" de S. P au/ o, Mantega, who drew up the PT' s economic platform polls, and party loyalty is about as easy to find as the extinct Dodo c/eS.Pcrw/o,Mantega,whodrewupthePT'seconomicplatfom polls,andpartyloyaltyisaboutaseasytofindastheextinctDodo bird. It It all all grows in the 1994 presidential election, said the party must make it clear bird. grows geometrically geometricallyworse worseas aselections electionsapproachapproach- inthel994presidentialelection,saidthepartymustmakeitclear almost aa year and aa half close that that Brazil Brazil will will not not "shut "shut its its doors doors to to foreign This isis aa although they're they're almost year and foreign capital". capital". This although half away, away, that's that's close in Brazilian Brazilian politics for all all sides sides to to shift shift into into high direct reaction to growing concerns abroad about what the future enough in politics for enough high gear, gear, directreactiontogrowingconcemsabroadaboutwhatthefuture which means means pry all you can from from those those in in power while they holds for post-Cardoso Brazil. Concerns that only exist because pry all you can they holdsforpost-CardosoBrazil.Concemsthatonlyexistbecause power while which have any at all. all. the PT' PT'ss President President of of Honor Honor and three-time presidential candiany power power at presidential candithe have Add to to this this explosive mix aa competitive, date, Luiz Luiz lnacio In~cio Lula Lula da Silva, once explosive mix once again again appears appearsas asthe theearly early Add competitive, uncensored uncensored news news date, media, and and the the willingness of those their way front-runner. Nothing new there, there, Lula has has led willingness of get their way to led each each of the the last last media, those who who don't don't get to front-runner. "tell" the end end result result is is aa daily daily parade parade of of threepresidentialracesintheearlygoing.Thedifferenceisthat "tell" on on those those who who do, do, and and the three presidential races in the early going. The difference is that in Brazil Brazil's and charges charges made made public. It's enough to make make most most in exposes and public. It's enough to 's current economic and political context, Lula and the the exposes Brazilians feel feel as as if PT are being given a better shot than ever before at holding that Brazilians if the the country, country, its itsleaders leadersand andinstitutions, institutions,are are PTarebeinggivenabettershotthaneverbeforeatholdingthat lead until until election election day. day. neck-deep in a quagmire of theft and wrongdoing, where among lead neck-deepinaquagmireoftheftandwrongdoing,whereamong those in in positions of power, comes before positions of power, "I" always comes those "I" always before "we". "we". * As Still, numerous numerous prominent As this this article article was was being concluded on on the the evening of prominent analysts being concluded evening of Still, analysts and and political political scientists scientists Brazil is is actually less cormpt now than than at at any other time time argue Brazil actually less any other corrupt now argue in the past. Media exposure, not possible in the old days because inthepast.Mediaexposure,notpossibleintheolddaysbecause of authoritarian authoritarian rule rule and and censorship, censorship, and of and diminishing diminishing "oppor"opportunities" for because of privatization, are supposedly corruption tunities"forcorruptionbecauseofprivatization,aresupposedly what makes makes corruption seem so so much much more more prevalent now. In In prevalent now. corruption seem what other words, words, too too many many are other are doing doing battle battle for for the the few few remaining remaining where one one might spots where spots might filch filch the the public, public, and and that that supposedly supposedly is is what's making seem so making wrongdoers wrongdoers seem what's so prolific prolific and, and, at at the the same same time, easier easier to denounce. time, to denounce. One can only hope the experts are right. The national mood, Onecanonlyhopetheexpertsareright.Thenationalmood, however, says says otherwise. however, otherwise. Public Public opinion opinion is is simply simply exhausted exhausted the mess witnessed, and there is a clear tendency by daily being bythedailymessbeingwitnessed,andthereisacleartendency to consider everything under the same light. Corruption charges toconsidereverythingunderthesamelight.Corruptioncharges Jader Barbalho Barbalho are are associated associated with with the the government against Jader government against which helped him become become Senate Senate President; President; the the energy crisis helped him energy crisis which the country well into into 2002 to many likely to country well according to many likely to plague plague the 2002 according is an experts, is experts, an inescapable inescapable example exampleofbad of badmanagement, management,regardregardless of of the involved; former former ally Antonio political ingredients ingredients involved; ally Antonio less the political BRAZZIL --JUNE JUNE 2001 2001 BRAZZIL

0, aalarge Sunday, June Sunday, June I10, largeportion portionofofSao saoPaulo, Paulo,Brazil's Brazil'slargest largest city, was in the dark. While the news city, news media media described described it as as the the first actual blackout of of the current energy crisis, crisis, officials with with the local local utility utility said said the the problem was caused caused by by aa faulty faulty transtransproblem was the former. Two Two sections sections of ofthe the city were in in the thedark darkfor for31 31 minmincity were former. utes. utes. Adhemar A]tieri Altieri is a veteran with with major news outlets outlets major news Adliemar in Brazil, Canada and the United United States. States. holds aa Master's Degree from NorthNorthDegree in Journalism from He holds western University University in in Evanston, Evanston, Illinois, Illinois,and andspent spentten tenyears years with CBS CBS News from Canada and Brazil. Brazil. Altieri Altieri is is aa with News reporting reporting from Canada and member of Intelligence Community, member of the the Virtual Virtual Intelligence Community, formed formed by by The Green Greenfield for field Consulting Consulting Group Group to to identify identify future future trends for Latin America. America. He He is is also Latin also the the editor editor of lnfoBrazil lnfoBrazil (http:// www.infobrazil.com), an English-language weekly www.infobrazil.com), an English-language weekly e-zine e-zinc with with and opinions on Brazilian Brazilian politics and economy. You politics and economy. You analysis and opinions on analysis can reach the the author author at ateditors@infobrazi].com editors@infobrazil.com can 17 17

Suppose one had not not heard, heard, of oflate, late,of ofBrazil Braziland andits itsimmediate immediate there is still doubt that that even even the the governments governments rationing rationing plan plan will will struggle to create the conditions of its own growth and stability ("or- pass muster. The The 1988 1988 Constitution Constitution also also provides that electricity electricity provides that pass muster. der and progress", as the national motto prays). Then one was told is asubjectof user `'rights'. a subject of user rights ' .Three Threelower lowerfederal federal courts courts have issued (1) Argentina would go through a confidence crisis (2) two impor- restraining the soul soul of of the rationing solution: escaescaagainst the restraining orders against iieff#;:,:c!r:ea!t:T,iscgto:n:dh!3j:gih:a:fon:;Tdn:::cg::r|:age:;;;I;*:y:`£,:i tant Senate leaders would resign under investigation and threat of lating rates and temporarily interrupting service for for users users who who do do interrupting service :aennta3::#;:::£e::nwtot3;derneesr[gFruaTjdoenr£Lngv;s:;g[:tjeof:e:T::tfeea,ta:i certain impeachment (3) energy rationing was in effect as the last not not keep within mandated quotas. The plan has just has been been changed changedjust line of defense against imminent rolling black-outs: (4) (4) all three three days against imminent rolling black-outs: judicial review, days into into operation, operation, specifically specificallytotomeet meetjudicial review,but but conditions at at the the same same time. time. Would Would the the Brazil Brazil one had described also in in an an attempt to be be responsive responsive to to opinion maker concerns concerns opinion maker attempt to for himself expect (1) (1) just mild mild damage like like a point or or two two from from without thought to their their merit. merit. thought to its growth targets (2) 6 percent annual inflation of the the nationalist nationalist arguments arguments implications of The implications (3) a gradual loss of 20 percent against the dolthat the government should return to an electric init3S)gar8ratdhutaairFoes¥|?)26oppeerrcceennttaangnaT£::£Ei:a:loo,I thatthegovernmentshouldretumtoanelectricinlar, theory of of the the lar, all as an evaluative working working theory frastructure administrated administrated by instituby government government institufrastructure effects? The The Real Real Plan Plan has has principal probable probable effects? ought to to worry investors and and good good worry foreign foreign investors tions ought principal made a difference. The Brazil Brazil that that today contoday conalike. With With or or without without IMF IMF loans loans to to neighbors alike. fronts its its particular particular set set of of economic economic and and politipolitiaccounts until until stronger economic stronger economic bridge current accounts cal circumstances is is not not the the Brazil Brazil of of even even two two growth is achieved, there is no way the government growthisachieved,thereisnowaythegovemment years ago. Unlike Argentina, no one in Brazil has both spend to meet meet the the long-term spend enough enough to long-term could both yearsago.UnlikeArgentina,nooneinBrazilhas totalkaboutgettingtheeconomygrowingagain. to talk about getting the economy growing again. increased electric demand assumed by that growth increasedelectricdemandassumedbythatgrowth Instead Brazil finds finds itself itself obsessed obsessed with with asasand avoid fueling massive inflation. Causal explaandavoidfuelingmassiveinflation.Causalexplasigning blame for energy energy crisis effects effects when when nations worth worth their theirsalt salt will will need need to to concentrate concentrate on on nations damageisyetnominal.Itfeelscompelledtosoon damage is yet nominal. It feels compelled to soon why private investment was so slow. Public debate, whyprivateinvestmentwassoslow.Publicdebate, makeimportantpoliticaldecisionsaboutthelate make important political decisions about the late to date at least, conspicuously avoids searching for todateatleast,conspicuouslyavoidssearchingfor 2002 election election slates; slates; its its Chief Justice of of the the that kind kind of of understanding and isis content content to to blame blame understandingand that Supreme Court gives opinions on legality of legality of the coalition coalition for for not not spending never had. had. spendingmoney moneyitit never the Executive Executive branch branch crisis crisis measures measures before before there there isis What the the electorate electorate wants wants to to hear hear isis the the mesmesWhat even one case before any court; court; nationalist, nationalist, perpersage of of the opposition: the message that private opposition: the message isis that private sage sonalized, populist every populist rhetoric colors nearly every are aa necessary condition for for the the electric electric necessary condition funds are report and and opinion. all causal causal explanaopinion. Nearly Nearly all sector all right, but those funds must be under the explanasector the tionsforthecrisisseekasingledescriptivecause, tions for the crisis seek a single descriptive cause, command and control of the government. Such a as though though thinking thinking and and describing could some some conclusion assumes either (1) making government describing could ::nmcTuasT:naans€uc£:tsr:£]t£:rt+Le,gmoavkejTgmgeonvt;Eumc:n: howbesingularandcleansedofmultiplecauses how be singular and cleansed of multiple causes companies so so advantaged advantaged in in the the sector sector that that their their companies andconsiderations.Infactifonecomplainsthat and considerations. In fact if one complains that equity offerings will be irresistible to foreign and certainly some rare rare and and unlikely certainly some unlikely precipitation domestic stock market investments or (2) future precipitation :3uriteyst°i:f::LEES:ii[k::£jnnveesj:#:Let:°o:°(r£)£gf:taunr: conditions had had contributed contributed something to the the something to government controlled controlled generation are to to generation projects projects are government chorus of of refuters refuters crop-up problem, aa chorus crop-up immedibe financed financed with with private strucprivate equity equity placements placements strucbe problem, immediately and everywhere with with the the refrain, refrain, "Not "Not the the Brazil finds finds itself Brazil itself tured on on aa minimum minimum guaranteed hard currency guaranteed hard currency tured lack of rain, but the lack of government government investinvestreturn. Either Either" industrial plan" doubtful so]usoluplan"isis aa doubtful return. "industrial obsessed with tion obsessed with ment". ment". tion for for Brazil's Brazil's continuing ravenous demand demand for for continuingravenous Interpreting the political fallout rhetoric rhetoric Interpreting the political fallout electric energy. Both are are aa certain certain death death for for the the energy. Both electric blame for for advantages assigning blame assigning from Brazil's energy think would think energy crisis, one would advantages of of competitive competitive market market conditions conditions as as there there had had never never been been aa Real Real Plan. Plan. One One would would the Real Real Plan. Plan. The The generation contemplated by by the generation crisis effects effects contemplated energy energy crisis think think that that no executive executive and legislative coalition legislative coalition itself will will no no doubt doubt be be constructed constructedjust as the the elecelecjustas itself the second in Brazil's entire history!) had (only the history!) had torate desires. The state companies will receive pre(only second in Brazil's entire when damage yet toratedesires.Thestatecompanieswillreceiveprewhen damage is yet ever ever enacted enacted or or administered administeredsuch suchan an event. event. The The ferred political treatment. Predictions are the secnominal. The The profound profound i:FneedeE:1;t2coa£:i:f%tnmseonft:npvr:sdt££t::F:;::#:£::: nominal. achievements of of creating reliable fifiprofound achievements creating reliable tor needs $ 20 billions of investment over the next profound nancial governnancial institutions, institutions, fiscally responsible governthree years. Furnas alone, alone, with a balance balance sheet years. Fumas sheet achievements of three achievements of mental the constant constant mental units, a stable currency and the nearly clear of debt (10 percent of assets) plans influx influx of of foreign foreign investment investment necessary to feed feed necessary to responsibility for$ 8 billions. :eesapr:XsC£'be£::t;ffgregt8(]b?,[E::Cs?ntofassets)plans creating reliable creating reliable economic economic growth are now now all all apparently irrelgrowth are apparently irrelThe widespread beliefsthat that `privatizations. widespread beliefs 'privatizations' The evant history. As the president of an industry alone creates creates competitive market conditions conditions and and competitive market financial institutions, financial institutions, aa alone :;:::ohrfesi°t#;£tsa;hke(tphr:;idBF,tt£:]annstjj::tues;:¥ sponsored think tank (the IEDI, the Institute for that `privatizations causedthe thefailure failureof ofthe theReal Real 'privatizations'' caused that Study Development) said said recently, recently, of Industrial Development) Study of_Industrial Planin in the the electric electric sector sectorboth both fuel fuel the the illusion illusion that that stable currency and the plan stablecurrencyandthe "the government doesn't know administration, "the government doesn't know administration, a government controlled market can look to private agovemmentcontrolledmarketcanlooktoprivate constant influx influx of of funding constant but more evident than that, it has refused to create butmoreevidentthanthat,ithasrefusedtocreate to build build needed needed but but non-advantaged funding to non-advantagedgovgovaa national national agenda agenda to to go the debate debate go alongside alongside the ernment generation. Boththese thesefalse falsebeliefs beliefswere were generation.Both ernment investment are are encouraged foreign investment foreign about IMF conditions... During the first hour in aboutlMFconditions...Duringthefirsthourin bythe the actions actions of ofthe the FHC FHC administraadministraencouragedby level administration administration course course one one aa University University level tion to the by explaining privatization population tion by explaining privatization to the population now all now all apparently apparently leams you have have to toplan, plan,operate, operate, learns that that to to manage you as aa fiscal fiscal necessity necessity and and not notalso also as as aa first first step tostep toas intervene; government didn't didn't learn lean intervene; the present government ward aa freer freer domestic domestic market. market. ward irrelevant history. irrelevant history. that that lesson." lesson." But more more importantly, Aneel, But Aneel, the the electric electricsecsecThis This theme theme is is sweet sweet music music to to nationalist nationalistand and tor independent regulating agency, agency, took on independent regulating tor on itself There political hopefuls. hopefuls. There the responsibility of protecting users from from being populist `opposition' 'opposition' political responsibility of protecting users being populist CONPAD CONRAD JOHNSON JOHNSON the ` abused ' by their electric distributors. Aneel is unare four four `opposition' candidates for for the the 2002 2002 are 'abused' by their electric distributors. Aneel is un'opposition' candidates elections. Together, Together, and and still still on on the realisticallyperpetuating perpetuatingaadisguised disguised and and unusual unusual presidential elections. realistically presidential the eve of of rationing, eve 70 percent percent of of rationing, they garner 70 rate structure structureso soas as not not to to contribute contribute`'excessively' rate excessively' intentions to to vote. vote. They, like the to indices indices that that measure measure overall overall price Armed with with the the They, like price stability. stability. Armed present intentions present the industrialists, industrialists ,are arerhetorirhetori- to theReal RealPlan Planon onits itshead: head:` 'the austerity of of the the mysterious mysterious belief belief that that Brazil Brazil isis one one of ofthe the most most attractive attractive places cally standing standingthe cally the fiscal austerity places Fernando Henrique Cardoso government is the cause of the energy in FemandoHenriqueCardosogovemmentisthecauseoftheenergy in the the world world for for electric electric energy energy investment, investment, Aneel has left its alcrisis; IMF IMF conditions conditions rendered rendered the thegovernment governmentpowerless powerless', crisis; ' , or so ready ready cash cash flow flow strapped strapped private private distributor distributorclients clients to to absorb absorbyet yet their causal causal explanations another 25 25 percent percent reduction reduction in in 2001. 2001. This This just on the the account account of of explanations go. go. juston their another The Real Real Plan Plan was was fashioned fashioned within within the the parameters ofaa popuparametersof The loss of of revenues revenues and and other otherrationing popu- loss rationingplan plan expenses. expenses. list 1988 Constitution that mandated strict limits to public investAneel 'protected' consumers have not yet been made awareAneel`protected'consumershavenotyetbeenmadeawarement by making most government expenditures (for example, 'first evenbythepopularopposition-fthepricestnictureintheelecisetn]t9b8y8mca&T::i::js°tngtohvaet##i:exdp:tnric]:jigsEff::epxuab:`pci:?yf:::: even by the popular opposition--of the price structure in the elecworld' world'or orbetter betterpension pensionbenefits benefitsfor formillions millionsof ofpublic tric sector. sector. In In the US, for example publicemployees employees tric example and and on on average, average,industrial industrialusers users and and retirees) retirees) aa matter matter of of strict strict obligation. Infact factas aswe wego to press obligation.In go to pay twice the rate for electricity that residential consumers pay. In press paytwicetherateforelectricitythatresidentialconsumerspay.In

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Brazil, the situation is reversed. Moreover industry is by far far the the larglargest consumer when compared to commercial and residential use.Until estconsumerwhencomparedtocommercialandresidentialuse.Until ;t;{{\;;::{:a`: 0 E§TAifc BE SB PAU|O *'J'w~#..~` 1990 1990 industry industry used used over over 50 50 percent percent of of all all electricity, electricity, though though now now itit is just over over 40 40 percent. But subsidies haven't stopped. ».+. »-++--om isjust stopped. On June of percent. But this tohfjinyde£:ttSeadr{es:rpeppraonaccyh?ne:W3ete[:aevse::8etfeesi8te[:t£:i;a;:;£nwd#::: year the discrepancy between average residential rates and those Plano tom sobretaxa, bonus e corte de luz of industry are approaching 3 times and the rationing plan will agM|.I:. gravate the discrepancy further. The present average regulated price Metadi`deTi.dng.!~it> cmt'H*ii casa.: di` de2{FT& 20% reduxio cm Desre5poftojicch:.+ditBsrmenengin Desrespeito ~ cota: 3 dias sem energia structure, not considering rationing: $31 per megawatt hour for gtrrauvcattuerteh,endj:ccr:£:jndceyr:#::t.oTnht:g:ess;Tt;:rerfg:;ewg:t,taLeoduEr;3: {iiLsii. iiljmde dc200 ion lw.'h Casto al~m kWh sniff saiti miljf mais i.iini car industry, compared with with $73/mwh $73/mwh residential. residential. Commerce Commerce averages averages STF ea Procon I+ocon contestam confe5tammedidas indidr§ $61 \ , $61 mwh. Most industrial and many commercial users are protected by long-term contracts expiring between 2003 and 2006. ConsumO "i5HEE 5Ez±ti: z::z z2:z. .::z2.:. ers, small small industrial and commercial users are are effectively effectively paying payingthe the . ............ tee. entire `privatization' cost of ofthe the rate rate structures structures necessitated necessitated by by dis'privatization' cost .. ! •-•••••,.•-t�u, .. ,.,.,__., ,,...,, .. tributor concession agreements. The actual legal structure of rates tributorconcessionagreements.Theactuallegalstructureofrateswhat establishes relative prices among different categories categories of of conconsumers wasestablished establishedinin 1986. 1986. Since Since 1995, 1995, the residential sumers-was residential rates rates have increased 108 108 percent percent on on average, average, while while industrial industrial rates rates only only �-,!w,,,., , .. ,.,,. a corresponding 60 percent. ;;.:^~'...\.ùl.1...~.a :.i.a:i:,`,-.TT:i.¥`¥.r.:=° 3 ,'j<*-" :y`.vx~iE:::=° - :rGiven these structural conditions, Aneel has beenreluctantto give Giventhesestructuralconditions,Aneelhasbeenreluctanttogive •iaffi+i¥.4ae=~ri=rty£=£i# <~` LRIat`(L'* the 80 percent privatized distribution distribution system revenue itit needs to system the revenue stayenthusiasticaboutitspresentinvestmentsinBrazil,letalonenew enthusiastic about its present investments in Brazil, let alone new stay onesingeneration.Insteadithasjoinedtheoppositionchorusagainst ones in generation. Instead it has joined the opposition chorus against i:`*'i`:a:i;: :J£RA:i¥-:*,J distributor profits. In the words of ofaa former Brazilian Central Bank profits. In 4ho.~ .+r*~._cO.£` President, Aneel of priorities priorities in inwhich whichconsumconsumAn eel created "a hierarchy of af I i2,,, I, Hs I,{,,2 ers, large large and and small, small, come comefirst, first,followed followedby bydistributors distributorsand andstate state ers, ifgich±,;;ila® generators, and coming in last, generators, and coming in last, private private generation. generation .That Thathierarchy hierarchyby by of the the long long term, term, and and definition benefited the short term at the price of •j "--·-·-�··--·-·-l'} La .0 ZZZC! .- 1· 1% the opening opening for for crisis crisis in in supply, supply, sooner sooner or or later." later." meant the zr=±:z±-.=±E±EE±E:EE; Brcrzz7./ readersshould shouldbe befamiliar familiarwith withHamar ltamar Franco. Franco. On On almost almost Brazzi/ readers in January January 1999, 1999, he he unilaterally unilateral lycalled calledadebt a,debtmoramorahis inaugural day in torium that was a certain causal factor in devaluation of of the real (because misunderstood by international finance finance community); his his state state militia militia has maneuvered to threaten against inas against federal privatization privatization ofFumas ofFurnasproperties andusing Minas propertiesstoring storingand usingM Gerais sovereign water; he ousted AES and Southern Power Power (22 percent owners) from Cemig, Cemig, the the state state electric electric company. company.This Thisex-President ex-Presidentof ofthe theUnion, Union,present present from Governor of Minas Gerais Gerais and and czar czar of of Cemig cemig has recently returned to to the the PMDB, PMDB, the country' country'ss largest political party party and and a key partner in the FHC coalition. On the strength of water is ours" he and his his allies allies have have captured captured state state control of his slogan "the ''the water administration apparatus apparatus for for So Sao Paulo, Paulo, Minas Minas and and Goias Goias states. states. of party party administration real energy energy crisis crisis is is at at hand, hand, he heseems seemsaalikely likelycandidate candidatetotoupset, upset, Now that a real at its national convention, convention, the the party's party's role in the the coalition coalition with with FHC. FHC. its September role in September national He already has over 10 10 percent of voter preferences nationally and and stands to to gain from the the inevitable inevitable hitches hitches in in administering administering 'the `the rationing rationingplan'. plan'. He He is, is, the most most from instead of following the national national plan, plan, instituting instituting his his own own separate separate state staterationing rationing to be be administered administered by by Cemig; plan, plan, to Cemig; threatening threatening to to buy buy both both the the soon soon to to be be privaprivatized State State of of Parana Paran~ electric electric company and the Sao So Paulo Paulo state-owned state-owned company (Copel) and generation complex Cesp Cesp Parana Paran~ that that `the 'the nation' nation'ss water generation complex water not not fall fall into into the the hands hands of of multinationals concerned concerned only only with with profits'. foreign multinationals times runner-up runner-upin inpresidential presidentialelections, elections,Lula Lulaofofthe workers'Party(PT), Party (PT), Three times the Workers' Brazilian government government The Brazilian is the the most most popular popular opposition opposition candidate. He Hejust back from from a two-week short just got got back political economy economy in in China. China. At At home home the the government's govemment's problems have course in political have èmergency plan' to initiated an 'emergency Lula'ss straw pushed pushed Lula' straw poll poll numbers numbers near near 30 30 percent. percent. From From China, China, where where he heallowed allowed no Brazilian press to follow him, he said in a telephone interview, "China is the no Brazilian press to follow him, he said in a telephone interview, "China is the investors 49 natural natural gas gas offer investors receives the the most most foreign foreign investment, investment, all all the the multinationals multinationals are are here here country that receives projects, but but the the State State does does not not open open its its hand hand to to its its sovereignty sovereignty and and with mega mega projects, generation generation plants. plants, Investors Investors did did determines priorities. priorities. Unfortunately Unfortunately Brazil Brazil neither neither plans plans nor nor sets sets priorities." country' s largest union union CUT and and the the PT's PT's principal of the country's Accordingly the leader of not respond enthusiastically. The enthusiastically. The financial support, wants to institute a nationwide movement movement to to stop stop paying paying elecelecfinancial offered discouraged discouraged supply terms offered tric energy He reckons reckons the the cause of of the the energy energy crisis crisis as the bills altogether. He energy bills government's failure to to maintain maintain monopolies in oil oil and and gas and electric. electric. He He bebemonopolies in gas and government's failure investment. lieves a boycott of utility bills would restore priorities. lieves priorities. Industrial users have, as as yet, yet,announced announced no nosuch suchboycott. boycott.Their Theirworries worriesare areconconcentrated on unfair comparative advantages of of North American American industry industry and the JOHNSON CONRAD JOHNSON Free Trade in in the the Americas: Americas: an an 'industrial ìndustrial policy' that follows the inevitability of ofFree logic of policy' . Meanwhile it seems strange not to see that the Real Plan ofaa `trade 'trade policy'. hasindeedmadeadifference.HowmanyyearsbackcouldBrazilhaveeventhought has indeed made a difference. How many years back could Brazil have even thought AES Corporation, outside outside the the Brazilian Brazilian AES Corporation, through an an Argentine Argentine crisis, crisis, the the resignation resignation of of two two important important Senate Senate of growing through is the government, leaders and and an an energy energy crisis, crisis, expecting expecting both both control control of of its its currency currency and and inflation inflation government, is the largest largest investor investor in in the the BraBraleaders zilian electric energy sector. President Dennis and loss loss of aa point point or ortwo twoin inits itsrate rateof ofgrowth-and growth-and all environments and all at at the the same same BckkeannouncedtotheBrazilianpressinmidBakke announced to the Brazilian press in midtime? The other other parts parts are are no no doubt doubt as as well well thought thought through, through, but but one one doubts doubts the the time? The May, while visiting visiting its its Porto Porto Alegre Alegre office office in in May, while political climate to substantively pursue pursue enabling enabling events. events. An An older older discourse discourse still still political climate to substantively reflecting on Southern Brazil and reflecting on the electorate and its opinions; itics follows dutiful ly behind. seems to move the electorate the pol opinions; the politics dutifully company's more than than $6 $6 billion billion stake, stake, "Bra"Braso busy complaining they they can't recognize Brazilians are so recognize their their accomplishments. accomplishments. zil has not been a good experience". experience". with fault, fault, and and not not how howBrazilians Brazilianswant wantelectric electrictotoserve servethem, them, The preoccupation with began liberalizing its its economy economyjust Brazil began just could be a costly costly error. error. fuIA.i``...r,}S5. `.i:`.

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before the 1991 1991 Real RealPlan. Plan. Decades Decades of of politics politics in in Brazil valued

the preferred owner and and operator operator of of economic economic preferred owner government as government as the institutions. The legislative intent that energized the ambitious Real institutions.ThelegislativeintentthatenergizedtheambitiousReal Plan sought to change that. Troublesome sectors were those that Plan

investments budgeted Brazilian thermo investments The Uruguaiana plant was built entirely entirely with company company cash. cash. "We have have not not been "We been able able to to secure secure financing financing because because there there is is no no

that rates will reflect exchange costs incurred in importguarantee guaranteethatrateswillreflectexchangecostsincurredinimporting Argentine gas" says President Dennis Bakke. There is little ophad developed capital-intensive (and heavily indebted) state and ingArgentinegas"saysPresidentDennisBakke.Thereislittleopits production because the South has has federal firms. Both the financial and the telecommunications sec- portunity Feaddef:,v#s:dBC.?!i,t£:-LEI:::ii:%n#hhee,aeY:Icy.i:dine:::g!,;;ant:saencq portunity to to commercialize commercialize its production because the South excess electric energy and the regional excesselectricenergyandtheregional have become become more more effitors have transmission system system is is not ready to cient, better democratized, and cient,betterdemocratized,and deliver to the energy starved Southeast Brazil(at 4,<` deliver to the energy starved southeast (at no no small small cost cost to to the the BrazilCl (So ian tax in the case of ian tax payer the case payer in (Sao Paulo, Paulo, Minas Minas Gerais Gerais and and Rio Rio de de Janeiro). Bakke Bakke calls calls Uruguaiana a banks)populatedbyeconomibanks) populated by economi"financial disaster". It is only the tip of "financial disaster". It is only the tip of cally healthy foreign and dothe disagreements the privaprofound mestic firms. Fedmesticcompetitivefirms.Fedcompetitive tized energy sector has with regulation. tizedenergysectorhaswithregulation. eral government institutions How decisively dollar costs hamstill control 60 percent of of the string the the privatized privatizeddistributors-the distributors-the string market, but only a few bankingmarket,butonlyafew banking likely investment leaders for increases small small and problematic state in generation illustrated in generationcapacity-is capacity-is illustrated banks remain. remain. Both jurisdicmarket conditions. conditions. The The by present market tions are out of of telecommuniSoutheast is highly dependent on the cations, except as as regulators. regulators. cations, except world's largest hydro generator Itaipu. world'slargesthydrogeneratorltaipu. Somehow the reforms ran Itaipu, co-owned co-owned with withParaguay, Paraguay,sells sells Itaipu, out of political steam steam on on the Gover no bauxa pacot~o da energia energy. dollar denominated electric energy. waytocreatingnotjustacomway to creating not just a come anuncia corte de luz por tr~s das Last LastJulywhenanAneelexecutivefirst July when an An eel executive first petitive, para quem n~o reduzn 20% do consumo. petitive, but but aa competent competent marmarEm caso de reinadencia, suspens~o chega through publicly proposed passing passing through in electric electric energy. Alket in publicly proposed a sens dias. Multa pata gasto acma de 200 kWh devaluation costs to consumcurrencydevaluationcoststoconsumcurrency though government compacompapor mes ~ de 50%. Para contas com mais ers for electricity generated burning nies control less less than 20 20 perde 500 kWh, sobretaxa ~ de 200%. S~ fica livre do racionamento e dos cortes the dollar dollar was wasat atabout about1.8 I.8 natural gas, the cent cent of distribution, distribution, over over 80 80 quem usa menos de 100 kWh. rec};.a.(The (Theexecutive executive was was fired). fired). The reais. percent generation and and percent of of generation Presidente Fernando Henrique Cardoso recr/recentlyvariesbetween2.2&2.3. rea/recentlyvaries between 2.2 & 2.3. nearly all all transmission transmission remain foi ~ Tv exphicar as medas With consumer rates only adjusted anin government hands. government hands. Earnnually distributors are hurting. EarnPrivatizationoffederalproperPrivatization offederal properings statements are low indeed. (One ties has virtually halted. Reguearnlatory authority executive pointed out his firm's earnauthority (Aneel) (Aneel) isis in in were comparable to passbook savingswerecomparabletopassbooksavings place as though the sector were placeasthoughthesectorwere ings rates.) Those who have bank and conprivatized: privatized: long long terms terms conbond debt in foreign dollar loans loans (the (the tracts are expiring; the machintractsareexpiring;themachinTurn off Brazil local eryforawholesaletradingisin local 'Fed `Fedrate' rate' for forthe thereal, rea/,the theSelic, Selic, ery for a wholesale trading is in can't seem to stay under 20 percent) are can'tseemtostayunder20percent)are place; by 2003 large users users and and place; by 2003 large 2005 consumers are hurting the most. Worse yet each disin 200 5 all consumers are to be choice of of suppliers But just tributor is is charged a proportional share for for the extra national costs afforded choice ust this tributor proportional share suppliers with free market pricing. Butj month Aneel the previously previously private wholeAn eel has bas assumed control of ofthe of electrifying Brazil's many many remote remote communities. communities. Diesel is is the of sale market. Basic resistance to reforming the system is surfacing preferred preferred fuel, fuel, also also dollar dollar denominated. denominated. twoaccounts, accounts,Itaipu Itaipuand andremote remote electrification-based because itit is is over and an an ununThese two electrification-based publicly hydro generation publicly because over 90 90 percent percent hydro generation and anticipatedandprolongedlackofrainisforcingrationing.Thesecon a distributor distributor association association sponsored sponsoredstudy studyby byA.T. A.T.KearneyKeameyanticipated and prolonged lack ofrain is forcing rationing. The sec- on torasawholeisunderpoliticalstrainbecauseoftimidinvestment. tor as a whole is under political strain because oftimid investment. representcostsabsorbedbydistributioncompaniesandnotpassed represent costs absorbed by distribution companies and not passed Federal generators generators report report record record profits, profits,but butcan't can't invest invest because because through in tariffs such that gross proflt Federal profit margins have decreased decreased 15 15 of mandated government fiscal restraint. restraint. between 1997 distributor of percent between percent 1997 and and 2000 2000 resulting resulting in in reduced reduced distributor èmergency plan' to offer invesThe government initiated an an 'emergency inves- book liquidity of almost almost 50 50 percent. percent. Some Somedistributors, distributors, including including tors 49 natural gas generation plants. Investors did not respond en- Eletropaulo, have won won temporary temporary court court relief relief in in Brasilia Brasilia on onthese these thusiastically.Thesupplytermsofferedbypetrobras(themonopoly "non-managerial" costs. But An Aneel has appealed, appealed, and and thusiastically. The supply terms offered by Petro bras (the monopoly now famous "non-managerial" eel has neverintendedtobedismemberedbytheRealplan)combinedwith never intended to be dismembered by the Real Plan) combined with is is publicly committed to not allowing these rising `currency' 'currency' or "managerial" costs to be passed-through. Eletropaulo president the thepricingofgasandplantmachineryindollarsthatwouldbeampricing of gas and plant machinery in dollars that would be am- "managerial" costs to be passed-through. Eletropaulo president ortized out of of revenues revenues in in local local rea/.a reais discouraged investment. LuizDavidTravessosayswhatAneelclaimsare``managerial"costs Luiz David Travesso says what An eel claims are "managerial" costs Tariffs are adjusted once aa year. Since just January his company last two January this year the amount to $150 million for his company alone over the last recr/ has has devalued devalued 20 20 percent. percent. The The projects projects are difficult at best to real years. years. Dennis Bakke imminent "energy bank finance. finance.ThesearethepatentreasonsthecountryfacesrationDennis Bakke faults faults Aneel Aneel for Brazil's imminent "energy bank These are the patent reasons the country faces rationingandneartermrollingblackouts.Thesectorproblemsgodeeper. and near term rolling blackouts. The sector problems go deeper. disaster". disaster". Aneel "maintains "maintains low low unrealistic prices for consumers". ing economy of of Brazilian Bakke offers that Aneel policies "that don't don't make make clear clear the methDeep enough to bring the whole political economy electric energy into doubt. ods whereby firms will be remunerated" have provoked the investodswherebyfirmswillberemunerated"haveprovokedtheinvestBefore conception of the'èmergency emergency plan,' ofthe plan,' AES AES was wasbuilding building ment freeze in the sector. "We are no longer investing until there a 600 MW natural gas generator in very South Brazil (Uruguaiana) are clear signs of a solution for the regulatory problem". Instead that could be supplied by competitive priced Argentine gas. AES of gfep:fyairnsgi#i:ho.fr:ssiodleuntio.nafg::::figsui'sa:o.?ng::::eumrt'#ss,tiefg partying with President Cardoso, AES is going to court, this time tah6a:%oMu#8:tsuur#jaesd8;;:roai°#jt|:?psr?cuet3R:¥e!:t(i¥emg8aus?£AanEas) award in in 1999 1999 from the US Commerce in in Rio RIo Grande Grande do do Sul, Sul, for for an an 'extraordinary' èxtraordinary' 7.7 7.7 percent percent increase increase 'good citizenship' citizenship' award won a `good in rates to cover a three year 18 18 percent accumulated shortfall in in forgetting theplant runningearly earlyon on diesel diesel to to aid aid Rio in Depatment Departmentfor gettingthe plantrunning "managerial" loses there. loses there. "managerial" Grande do Sul state solve a seasonal seasonal energy shortage. AES bought and operates and operates Tiet~, Tiete, aa large large generation generationproject, project,and andEletropaulo Eletropaulo two articles articles appeared in Portions of these these two in the Metropolitana, large distributor, distributor, both both in inthe thestate stateof ofSao SaoPaulo. Paulo. Metropolitana, aa large Fi."a#ci.a/ Times ri.mcs energy energy division division publication, publication. It has in a Rio de Janeiro distributor and the largest state Financial has interest in I." Latin £afJ.H Amcri.co. Conrad Johnson, theauthor, author, electric Power in America. Conrad Johnson, the company Cemig, in Minas Gerais (where the governor there electriccompanycemig,inMinasGerais(wherethegovemorthere is an an American American attorney, attorney, permanently permanently residing residing is has removed them from management by court action). In addition in.Brazil. to other properties they have budgeted plans for 10 10 more Brazilian in Brazil. He writes for various publications publications on development and legal thermo projects. The Presidents ofBrazil and AES were scheduled on issues in in Latin America. thermoprojects.ThepresidentsofBrazilandAESwerescheduled legal issues to take part in an inaugural ceremony May 21" in Uruguaiana. AES th°atsafnes?egdj:ancj:ii:8:E%'::::=::¥¥nady2u`sstpj:n#g2j3riii.oAnEi: You can can reach liim You him at has instead cancelled the ceremony and suspended $2 billion in conrad@alternativa.com.br

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Just it Brazil begins to discuss the 2002 budgets of federal, state and municipal governments much more concerned in keeping of aa few few privileges of privileges protected by by law law than than protected eeing rights guaranteeing rights still nquered by by the not conquered majority. RISTOVAM BUARQUE CRISTOVAM

BRAZZIL BRAZZIL --JUNE JUNE 2001

"It' sjust stones", the words words of of the thegovernment governmentof of "It's were the just stones", were Afichanistan to to justify j ustifythe thedestruction destruction of of sacred sacred Buddhist Afghanistan thousand years years old. old. With With the the lack lack of sculptures over one thousand of what feeling of those who do not understand the value of is the stones stones sculpted sculpted by by artists, artists, the the Taliban Taliban govgovis behind the ernments do not understand the the historic historic value value of of the the past, past, do not respect religious diversity and commit the crime of of humanity. humanity. destroying cultural heritage of "Just poor", are words thought thought by by the the global elite "Just the words poor", are the global elite of misery scattered all over the world. before the tragedy of With the lack of of feeling of of that who does not understand the suffering of its its equals, equals, the the world world economic economic elite elite does does not consider consider human value in the faces faces of ofthe thepoor, poor,does doesnot not understandthesacrificeofdestructionofhumanbeings`and understand the sacrifice of destruction of human beings and commits the crime of of destroying its its own own humanism. humanism. This is what the inhabitants modern side side of This what the inhabitants of the modern societythinkwhentheypassbesidetheexcludedpoor.This think when they pass beside the excluded poor. This society is what comes to their minds when they see and read news of of misery or when they are informed about the social inindicators of of poverty. It It is is the same when they ask the poor to keep keep them them in in poverty, poverty, fooling fooling themselves themselves for their vote to and the poor into into thinking they are "just poor". Right into st Century,aa into the the 21 Right 21"Century, days ago, ago, the the world world saw saw the the few days voyage of a ship transporting voyage · children for the slave market on television. They They were were sold, sold, at at television. in dollars, dollars, by by parents parents low prices in of misery. Before the desperate of destruction of sacred sacred images inages of destruction of Buddha, two twomonths monthsearlier, earlier,the the Buddha, world manifested its indignaindignaToday, the the world worldjust just tion. Today, watches the tragedy tragedy of watches in in awe awe the this modem slave slave ship. ship. It is serious to consider that there was no way to predict and avoidtheTalibancrimecommitavoid the Taliban crime committed by isolated fanatics of of the the world. However, for for decades decades the thetragedy tragedy of ofglobal globalpoverty povertyhas hasbeen beenpredictable, predictable, world. However, built by economic policies deliberated by the centers centers of of international international power. by the power. happens today today in in Africa Africa is is the the fault fault of ofcorrupt cormpt government governmentofficials, officials,of of What happens unsuccessful national national experiences. experiences. It It is, is, overall, overall, the theresult resultof ofthe theimposition impositionof ofdedevelopment models not adapted to local reality. It It is the consequence of of an attempt toimposeapaththatseekswealthforfewinsteadofseekingtheeradicationofpovto impose a path that seeks wealth for few instead of seeking the eradication of poverty for all. can not not be be avoided even when a few rich proWhat happened in in Afgivanistan Afghanistan can to the sacred ofBuddha pose buy sculptures posetobuythesacredsculpturesofBuddha andtransportthemtomuseumsofthewest. and transport them to museums ofthe West. But the poverty existent in the world could be avoided if if the rich decided to invest a small part of their global income to attend the necessities of of the poor. Only 0.1 0.1 percent of the the world's world's income would be necessary to guarantee Bo/saBolsaEsco/aforall250millionboysandgirlsthat Esco/afor all 250 million boys and girls that are presently obliged to work. They would school, free free from from being being sold sold as as all be in school, slavesbytheirownparents.Only13percent slaves by their own parents. Only 13 percent ofwhatpoorcountriespayasservicetotheir of what poor countries pay as service to their external debts to the rich rich banks banks of ofthe the world wouldbenecessarytoremovechildrenfrom would be necessary to remove children from work and euroll enroll them in in school. 21

But this is not done. done. On On the the contrary, contrary, to to force force these these councountries to pay their external debt, debt, severe measures measures are are imposed imposed thatdeepenpovertyandthrowmillionsintodespairtothepoint that deepen poverty and throw millions into despair to the point where children children are are sold sold as as slaves under under the global via teleeye via global eye vision.Despiteallintemalerrorsofthepast,aconsiderablepart vision. Despite all internal errors ofthe past, a considerable part of of world poverty is caused from the outside into African countries.

This is not the the case case ofBrazil. ofBrazil. Here there are sufficient sufficient funds toeradicatepoverty.Ourpovertyhasnointemationalexcuses, to eradicate poverty. Our poverty has no international excuses, even though our submission worsens our our misery. With With only only aa small portion of of the available resources in in possession of the the possession of

public sector, less than 14 percent, it would be possible to carry publicsector,lessthanl4percent,itwouldbepossibletocarry out programs and public policies that in in aa few few years would policies that years would eradicate poverty within national territory. poverty within territory. However, the country begins begins to to discuss discuss the the 2002 2002 budgets budgets of federal, state and municipal governments of much more more concongovernments much cemedwithproblemsoftherichthanwiththeneedsofthepoor. cerned with problems ofthe rich than with the needs ofthe poor. Moreconcemedinkeepingprivilegesofafewprotectedbylaw More concerned in keeping privileges ofa few protected by law than guaranteeing rights still still not not conquered the majority. by the conquered by majority. Brazil watched astonished astonished the course course of of the the slave slave ship on ship on the other side of see that within within the the of the Atlantic, but does not see of the the budget is aa slave slave ship of budget through through Congress Congress there path of ship of path there is even if if disguised. greater proportions, proportions, even greater disguised. On the pages and numbers of of the budget is the future of of public policies, the picture ofhealth,jobs, school, safety, food, publicpolicies,thepictureofhealth,jobs,school,safety,food, housing, of the Brazilian Brazilian popupopuof water and sewers available for the lation during the next next few few years. This route of ofthe the country tocountry towards the future, future, as as aa nation nation or or as as aa huge hugeslave slaveship, ship,depends depends on the decisions decisions made made now. now. Depends on our representatives to our mobilization of to define define ofrepresentatives a budget to eradicate eradicate poverty before the the budget to increase increase budget to budget to poverty before

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of social debt before other other debts. A budget budget wealth. A budget of ofrights privileges. of rights before privileges. One hundred years ago an anti-slavery movement led BraOnehundredyearsagoananti-slaverymovementledBraofNegroserfdom. serfdom.ItItisistime timefor for aa new new abozil to the abolition ofNegro movement, a movement litionist movement, movement for for aa second second abolition abolition to to eradicate poverty. poverty. waken the country to eradicate for the the first first al)olition abolition to to work, work, itit was was necessarry In order for necessary that free people realize that slaves were not "just slaves", that thatfreepeoplerealizethatslaveswerenot"justslaves",that of them had a soul. soul. Now itit is is necessary the rich rich necessary that the each of realize that that the the poor are not not ``just are "just poor" as the sculptures realize poor are sculptures are 'just stones". They are not "just are our our brothers, brothers,our ourequals, equals,waiting waiting to exercise their rights. As they wait, the life they lead becomes

proofthat the rich have won the world but lost their souls. They ;°ii#iththeenrc#gg;::#e#ofi`idthbe##e[:ToulT#; souls. are "just rich", without souls.

Cavalcanti Buarque was born born on on Buarque was Cristovam Ricardo Cavalcanti 20, 1944, 1944, in February 20, February in Recife, Recife,Pernambuco. Pernambuco.He Hehas hasa adegree degreeinin Mechanical Engineering from the Pernambuco Federal Federal Mechanical received aa PhD PhD in in Economy Paris Economy from Paris University and received University. He He is is a professor at at the the University of Brasilia. Brasilia. University of University. has also also created and and is is the president of the the NCO NGO Buarque lias president of Buarque Mission Child, with the purpose of fighting poverty and social social segregation. His segregaition. His most mostrecent reeeut book, bock, O 0 Admirvel Admirdrel Mundo Mundo Atual Atual PresentWorld» World),jsisbeing released by Ed. A A (BravePresent being released by Geracho Gera~~o Ed Orave voice of the Brazilian left wing, he is respected voice respected is aa member of the the PT 0artido (Partidodue dos Trabalhadores-Worker`s TrabalhadoresWorker'sParty) andwas was the the Party)and PT Federal District District governor governorfrom from 1994 1994 to to 1998. 1998. He is the author author Federal of 18 18 books books and his twice aa month of ltis articles articles are published twine montlt in ih O a Globo, Comefo Correio Braziliense Gtobp, Bnndffaraseand andmany manyother other publications pub]icatious in Brazil. Homepage: Hise-mail: e-mail: Homepage: www.cristovambuarauemro.br www.cristovambuargue.pro.br His Brazil. cbuargue@tba.com.br cbuaroue®tba.com.br

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lay shit

The The stool stool test test shows shows that that our our malefactors malefactors are are daring and daring and trusting.Theyleaveobviousprints,notbecausetheyareincomtrusting. They leave obvious prints, not because they are incom-

Mayshil

petent. No! No! They They have have faith faith in in aa protective protective judicial judicial system system petent. guaranteeing as as their their impunity. impunity. ItIt was was not not aa coincidence coincidence that that guaranteeing the the judges judges granted granted habeas habeas corpus to the the 27 27 thieves of of Sudam, corpus to who who were were already to take take the the powder. already packed packed to powder. The The examination examination of of the the feces feces tells us that, more important than d6ja vu, vu, is is to to expand expand the the than to to denounce denounce poverty, poverty, which which is is d~j~ mechanicsoftheelites-thetruecausesofpauperism.Thebogus mechanics ofthe elites-the true causes of pauperism. The bogus invoices, checks, the the frogs frogsand andbarbalhos, barbalhos,the thefalse false invoices, the forged checks, vouchers,theblankpersonalnotesexplaineverything.Wehave vouchers, the blank personal notes explain everything. We have

he with you

bewithyou Brazil sure needed needed an an urgent urgent stool stool test. test. Brazil

leaned learnedaagreat greatdeal, deal,asasmuch much as as we we were were taught taught by the great P.C. corruption, who who once once P.C. Farias, Farias, the the crowned crowned monarch monarch of corruption,

ARNALDO JABOR JABOR ARNALDO

The frogs, frogs, Osmar's mug, mug, and The and the the rape rape of the the Congress Congress electric scoreboard scoreboard enlighten our lives. lives. enlighten our electric

In his hisbook bookSecre/i.our, Secretions,Ex.cref/.o/7s, Excretions,c7#c7A4lc7cJ#esses, and Madnesses, Rubem In Rubem

explained 10 percent is . . "" Excrement is explained``"10 is for for waiters. waiters ... is useful useful because waseasy easyto to because itit shows shows why, why, during the Collor era, itit was impeach he were impeach him, him, as as if ifhe were the only cheat artist. Now we see that that the the infection infection isis widespread. We thought that by widespread. We thoughtthat by impeachimpeaching ing Collor Collor we we were were absolved. absolved. Now Now we we know know that that Collor Coll or was was the the whole whole Brazil. Brazil. Shit Shit teaches teaches us us that that there there isis no no point point in in holding our noses noses holding our and and dreaming dreamingof ofpurity. purity. You Youcan can only onlyfight shit by the fight shit by entering entering the sewer. Our problems problems are not the big evils. It's the the frogs, frogs, the sewer. Our evils. It's forgedchecks,thedisguisedpettythieveswhoarereallyharmforged checks, the disguised petty thieves who are really harmful, ful, more more noxious noxious than than the great globalization crises. crises. Shit is no no future, future, only only the the present. present. Shit teaches teaches us us that that there there is Utopias Utopias set set us us apart. apart. There such aa thing thing as aa Brazilian Brazilian There is is no such

Fonseca introduced introduced the the new new science science of ofcopromancy at Fonseca copromancy aiming aiming at reading fortunes fortunes by by means means of ofstool stool examinations. examinations. Instead Instead of of reading reading hands, hands, itit reads poop. Our parasites show up poop. Our reading parasites show up in the tests of the the country's country's latest latest diarrhea diarrhea of ofpolitical scandals. political scandals. of There isis something something new new in in the the dung flood. We We are are finding dung flood. There finding out that that there there is is one one real real Brazil Brazil and and an an imaginary Brazil. The The out imaginary Brazil. imaginary one is is honest, imaginary honest, given given to to dreaming, dreaming,almost almostnon-exisnon-existent. The The other other Brazil, Brazil, the real one, isis this tent. thisconconspiracy of of lies and sordid deals, flourishing under spiracy mantle of ofdecency. decency. The The real real one one isismade madeup of I aa mantle upof I0 BRIIsr €ft8ft[mBm"IF**L: quagmires, shit shit pits, The imagipits, stinking stinking sludge. sludge. The imagi- __CORR quagmires, nary nary one one is is the shocked shocked purity purity of ofthe the middle middle class. class. • {w.... ... With all all these humiliations, we all feel feel as victims With victims of of aa nationwide nationwide scam. scam. Brazil Brazil sure sure needed needed aa stool stool :zzsezr. test. And having it done is healthy because it brings :cr----test.Andhavingitdoneishealthybecauseitbrings to with bacbac- �� to light light our dirty reverse side, crawling with teria and and germs. germs. teria We the traditional traditional contradiccontradicWe see that, beyond the tions,classes,underdevelopment,thereisanorigitions, classes, underdevelopment, there is an origi4rs

project. There must be Brazilian projects, by the project.TheremustbeBrazilianprojects,bythe

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clock, political action clock, clean clean as as a whistle. Great political

is has to to be be one one of of is not one of of heroic gestures, it has open its most most open and and detailed detailedmanagement, in its management, in minute minute details. details. A A Fiscal Fiscal Accountability Aetisis Accountability Act more more important important than than aa thousand thousand ideological ideological speeches. speeches.

Shitunmasksusthelanguageofcorruption. Shit unmasks us the language of corruption. Words Words mean mean precisely the contrary: unprecisely the contrary: "my "my un-

blemished past" actually means "undiscovered equals chutzpah. i i sensitivity"=="fear "fearofthe sensitivity" of the cops." cops." Thus are are not sins-they sinstheyare area asystem. system.They are not not exex=r=== Thus we we lean learnthat thattruth truthisisaalie lie and and that that lies lies Theyare are the truth. truth. When WhenArruda, Amda, ACM ACM or orJader Jaderlie, lie, ceptions-they ceptionstheyare arethe thenorm. norm.Our Ourhistorical historical proarethe prode' l thereismoretruthinthemthanwhentheyblow cess there are no no thieves thieves cess wades in shit. shit. Actually, there ismore truth inthem than whenthey blow Actually, there [ their in There are many opportunities called in Brazil. Brazil. There called " their chests chests and voice voice their their "truths." "truths." Shit Shit isis Sudan,Sudene,Finor,andsoon,allbuiltexpressly Sudam, Sudene, Finor, and so on, all built expressly s.z illustrative. The unforgettable face of Jos~ ii c er-#e?,A:s± .±=~_¥~.`^_____T|_____ __.__:__11__1____:___ The unforgettable ___I __I face __ ofJose . .1 •us fro-ee <ng! _ xp`{ ` ' r..s`<q: OsmarBorges,cynicallyboringandcalm,isthe to facilitate facilitate thieving. thieving. It has been proved that that the the S*.a;+F£:.gS it # Osmarillustrative. Borges,cynically boring and calm, is the synthesis does not not need need to to fund fund entrepreneurs. It's synthesis of of Brazilian Brazilian morality. State does morality. entrepreneurs. It's Oligarchies 01 igarchies don't don't want want Brazil Brazil as as an an organized enough that it "balances" the economy so that, that, with with low low interinterorganized country. country. Respect for finances itself. for the the public public res res isis bad bad news news for for those those who who feed feed on on est rates, private enterprise finances itself. State those who who profit profit from from the the country's country's ofour Public interest interest neineiState prostitution areas, areas, those Shit is the raw material of our dreams. Public chaotic has plans not projects. Our tortured tortured progress is made made up chaotic swamp. swamp. The The oligarchies lawless nanaprojects. Our oligarchies great great project ther has project isis aa lawless progress is up tion of crumbs crumbs from from seams. scams. Robbery is is our our fuel. fuel. It paints aa false false tion where democracy democracy is is a screen screen for for predators and the the corcorpredators and of rupted. It would be much easier rupted. It easier to to handle. handle. landscape ofunfinished of unfinished overpasses, overpasses, hospitals hospitalswith withno nobeds, beds,aa Corrupts and holocaust of of frogs. frogs. and oligarchs oligarchs wish wish that that any introduced holocaust any project project introduced could be torpedoed shit, the the NopoliticalchangehasevermanagedtocleanuptheorigiNo political change has ever managed to clean up the origitorpedoed as soon as possible. The systemic shit, fecal is lucrative lucrative feces. Shit outer fecal machinery, the excrement-fueled locomotive is nal feces. Shit will will always always prevail. Each time when the outer as in the the nineteenth nineteenth century, century,to tohamper hampertotothe the of the system system changed, as it was lucrative, lucrative, in appearances of changed, in in substance substance everything everything utmost the abolition of was lucrative lucrative for for the the big big remained the same. We had developmentism with Kubitschek, of slavery, slavery, as it was remainedthesame.WehaddevelopmentismwithKubitschek, shots aa delay with Goulart, delay unanimously unanimously pre-planned. populism with national populism Goulart, the the authoritarianism authoritarianism of the the pre-planned. Thenationwidestooltesthelpsusseethatweshouldrejoice military, the The nationwide stool test helps us see that we should rejoice military, the redemocratization-but redemocratization-but everything in everything stayed stayed in results-not totobebedepressed we fall place, the the intact intact original its results-not withthem. them.Iflfwe fall into into depressedwith place, original poop, poop, the the fecal fecal matter matterleft leftby bythe the with its disenchantment and pessimism use shit shit as as aa way of doing pessimism we we will will be be encouraging the forefathers. Cardoso even tried to use way of encouraging the doing frogs and the hyenas. The only away with "shit is cured cured by want is is our despair. only thing thing they away with it, it, in in aatruly trulyhomeopathic homeopathicstyle style-"shit by they want despair. Cheer The Realpolitik Realpolitik of ofshit. shit. But the accursed fecal pile is Cheer Up! Up! shit.". The pile is Brazil is having a bath. Shit is our salvation. figured. ItIt grows and grows and now now itit threatthreatBrazil is grows and bigger than he figured. grows and him. engulfhim. ens to engulf Translated A hope survives, however. The failure of the the State is is helphelpTranslated by Wilson Velloso Velloso by Wilson This article ful. There isn't isn't much much more more to be be stolen. Conclusion: morality article was was originally originally published published by Rio's daily of low low cash cash flow. flow. daily aOG/obo Globo (http://www.oglobo.com.br/ is a matter of (http://www.oglobo.com.br) nal mess, mess,aaprimal primallayer of excrement that layerof-excrement nal that push-es pushes our lives along. Corruption and political falsehoods ourlivesalong.Corruptionandpoliticalfalsehoods

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P:;Tj:i,ecqhp,?,Si';:C^¥,a!1^¥,T,e.a^nLs.:;::9is¢pcv^e^r.S^q crimes." crimes."``My "My honor" equals chutzpah. "Social "Social

BRAZZIL --JUNE JUNE 2001 2001 BRAZZIL

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never

have

survived long enough to become an industrial giant had it not been for good fortune and the fact that so much of what we have today was forcibly taken from others who owned it. PHILIP MIZEWSKI

Who in the United United States really really understands understands Brazil? Who in in Brazil Brazil dozen trips trips to to Brazil Brazil II really understands Brazil? After more than aa dozen � know what I should already have known from life here; that opinions f Brazil vary even among Brazilians. The United United States States and and Brazil Brazil of are very large countries with large populations ofvarying origins living areverylargecountrieswithlargepopulationsofvaryingoriginsliving environments and and seeing seeing the the world world in in different different ways. ways, But But in different environments about Brazil Brazil and and life life I think we can draw some general conclusions about as we we could could about about the the United United States and our own Brazil,justas in Brazil,just own lives lives here. Brazil seem seem fairly typical here here I have a neighbor whose views on Brazil in Indiana, He can't understand why a country as large ( actually slightly inlndiana.Hecan'tunderstandwhyacountryaslarge(actuallyslightly larger than) the continental United States, larger States, with with such such an anabundance abundanceof of natural resources, can't simply itself up by simply "pull itself natural by its its bootstraps" bootstraps" and and of prosperity we've we've become become accustomed accustomed to to here. here, This This enjoy the kind of view frustrates frustrates me. me. Traveling Traveling in in Brazil Brazil is is often often an an alternately alternately exhilaexhilaexperience, since the wonders rating and depressing experience, wonders of its its grandeur grandeur its colorful culture culture are are so so often often interlaced interlaced with with extreme extreme poverty poverty and its that there there will will be be no no end end to the the misery misery there. Brazil Brazil faces faces and a sense that many challenges, some of which place an enormous strain on the fabric manychallenges,someofwhichplaceanenormousstrainonthefabric of its its society. But But the the conclusions conclusions of ofmy my neighbor neighbor are are as as founded founded in in of and mythologies about who who we we (North (North Americans) Americans) are are assumptions and mythologies about assumptions mythologies about about who who Brazilians Brazilians are are as they are in in assumptions and mythologies how they arrived at at where where they they are are today. today, they arrived and how Brazil and the United United States from a pod", Brazil States aren't "peas from pod", and and the the United States didn't emerge as the leader of the free world through little Unitedstatesdidn'temergeastheleaderofthefreeworldthroughlittle more than grit and determination. determination, Lets Lets view view the the history history of ofthe the United United more moment, as States, for a moment, as though though life life and and society society here here had had been beensubjected subjectedto tothe theinfluences influencesthat that course of ofBrazilian Brazilian history. history, determined the course of immigrants the British British colonies colonies of ofNorth North America America had had not not majority of immigrants to the Suppose that the majority been European. thatthe the"elite" "elite"here herehad hadbeen beena soci.cz/ a social elite, elite, rather ratherthan thanan an/.#fe//ecf«cr/ intellectual European. Imagine Imaginethat been elite, Imagine idealism that that pervaded the thinking ofour our founding fathers (who (who arrived arrived elite. Imagine that the idealism pervaded the thinking of founding fathers here for for different reasons reasons than the the early early immigrants immigrants to Brazil) Brazil) had had been more more or less absent. If If here the course course of ofNorth North American American history had followed followedthat that of ofBrazil Brazil the the majority majority 6f ofits its early early poputhe history had population would would have have been been African African slaves. slaves, Roughly times as as many many were were transported to Brazil Brazil lation Roughly eight eight times transported to as to the the British British colonies colonies of ofNorth North America. America, The balance balance of of social social caste caste was was set set early early in in Brazil Brazil such such that that the the creativity offree free men men in in aa The creativity of free society society would would not not be be unleashed unleashed with with such such energy and impact as occurred occurred later laterin in the the fledgfledgfree energy and impact as ling United United States. States. Similarly, free enterprise did not provide significant momentum momentum for exploling explosive economic growth growth in in Brazil, nor nor much opportunity for the majority of of its (African slave) insive habitants to to elevate elevate themselves themselves and and their their future future generations generations to to aa higher standard of ofliving. Ecohabitants living. Ecohigher standard nomic nomic incentive incentive was was replaced replaced by by the the threat threat of ofsevere severe punishment punishment for for failure failure to to produce. produce. Slave Slave laborers in Brazil were treated as disposable resources far more frequently than here because sugar, laborersinBrazilweretreatedasdisposableresourcesfarmorefrequentlythanherebecausesugar, not trade. not cotton, cotton, was was the driving driving force behind the African slave trade. Sugar intensive to to grow grow and andprocess processthan thancotton, cotton,was wasneeded needed Sugar cane, which is much more labor intensive to supply supply European households with with something something to to negate bitter aspects of of the coffee, tea and to European households negate the bitter cocoa as as they were introduced in the early cocoa early 1500s. 1500s. So, So, in inour ourimagined imaginedrevision revisionofNorth ofNorth American American history,thegreatmajorityofthepopulationwouldhavebeenAfricanslavelaborers.ThoseAfricanhistory, the great majority ofthe population would have been African slave laborers. ThoseAfricanAmericans governed, by by aa very very small smallminority minority Americans would would have have been dominated, rather than merely governed, of wealthy wealthy individuals individuals who who would would have have received received a lion's lion's share share of ofthe the benefit benefit from from all all of ofthe the of in that that society. productive activity activity in society, productive A A primary primary incentive incentive for North American immigrants was land ownership, which provided them them with with the the ability ability to to sustain sustain themselves themselves and and to to generate generate income income above above and and beyond beyond the the sussustenancelevel.Ownershipofpropertyalsomadeitpossibletopassdowntolatergenerationswealth tenance level. Ownership of property also made it possible to pass down to later generations wealth earned and and accumulated accumulated as as aa result result of ofdedication dedication and and hardships overcome, But Butin in our ourimagined earned hardships overcome. imagined revised revised history history that that would would generally not have have been been possible. all land land would would have have been been generally not possible. Virtually Virtuallyall sequestered sequestered in in the the hands hands of ofthe the smallest smallestimaginable imaginableminority. minority. The The great great expanse of Brazil Brazil was apportioned into "captaincies", rather rather than divided into expanse of colonies that that were were further further re-divided re-divided and and subdivided subdivided to to the the point where far far more more people could colonies pointwhere people could secure aa portion to themselves themselves and and their theirfamilies. families.And Andthe theBrazilian Brazilian interior interior was was aafar far more more secure portion to environmentwith with far farless lessarable arableland. land.The Theland landthat thatwcrf was arable arable was was often often far far less less inhospitable inhospitable environment nutrient rich rich and and much much of ofitit was was annually annually alternately alternately baked baked and and flooded flooded by heat nutrient by searing searing tropical tropical heat and torrential torrential rains rains respectively. respectively, So, and So, in jn our our imagined imagined revised revised scenario, scenario, the the environment environment here here would'vebeen been similarly similarly uninviting and punishing. would've uninviting and punishing. Sure, in our actual history, a particularly brutal winter might be fol lowed by sustained months Sure,inouractualhistory,aparticularlybrutalwint6rmightbefollowedbysustainedmonths ofdrought. drought. But, But, in in an an average year, a farmer of farmer had had real real hope hope for foraasuccessful successfulgrowing growingseason. season.This This was was often often not not the the case case in in Brazil, which historically relied relied on large large single product cash crops like sugar cane, cane, rubber rubber and and coffee coffee that that were were particularly particularly suitable suitable to to the land and its climate. Prospersugar ity ity derived derived from from dominating dominating these these markets markets was was vulnerable vulnerable to to climactic climactic extremes extremes and and advances advances in in technology. technology. Development of ofbeet beet sugar sugar and and synthetic synthetic rubber rubber triggered the collapse ofeconomies economies based based Development triggered the collapse of on the the production production of ofsugar cane and and natural natural rubber rubberwith with few fewapparent toreplace them. on sugar cane optionsto apparentoptions replacethem. BRAZZIL -JUNE - JUNE 2001 2001 BRAZZIL

economically dominant economically dominant as as we we are are today. today. So, So, from from our our revisionist revisionist historical perspective, we would have to assume that less progress historicalperspective,wewouldhavetoassumethatlessprogress area. that area. in that made in been made had been had were no There were There no Brazilian Brazilian ships ships in in Pearl Pearl Harbor, Harbor, and and Germany Germany not was not Brazil was Brazil. Brazil on Brazil. war on declare war idea to the idea set upon not set was not upon the was to declare less was It survival. its to threat direct same the with presented presented with the same direct threat to its survival. It was less aa the motivated the that motivated survive that to survive need to the need than the character than of character matter of matter States to United States United to progress progress so so far, far, so so fast, fast, in in its itsquest questtotobecome becomean an considered of everything effects of And the industrial giant. everything we've giant. And industrial the effects we've considered would history would Brazilian history of Brazilian lines of the lines along the US history in revising history along revising US in cumulative. been cumulative. have been have been have been would have industrially would US to the US of the the ability So the ability of So to grow grow industrially limited in more limited far more far in our our revised revised world, world, eveh evch if ifwe'd we'd still still been been atatrecovered and Japan Harbor. Although Pearl Harbor. at Pearl tacked at Japan recovered Germany and Although Germany tacked from the devastation of war with amazing speed we have to rememfromthedevastationofwarwithamazingspeedwehavetoremember that a national social memory provided much of the knowledge berthatanationalsocialmemoryprovidedmuchoftheknowledge had it Moreover, had for rapid base required rapid reconstruction. required for base reconstruction. Moreover, it not not been been staggering amounts the victors, the leniency for the coupled with leniency of Black Factor The BIack for of the victors, coupled with staggering amounts Latin America have happened. never have could never it could aid, it of foreign foreign aid, of happened. Latin America has has never been the recipient of commensurate amounts of constructive Suppose, as was the case in Brazil, that an end to slavery meant neverbeentherecipientofcommensurateamountsofconstructive Suppose,aswasthecaseinBrazil,thatanendtoslaverymeant US foreign by US social engagement engagement by no social with no society with into society slaves into many slaves as many times as eight times absorb eight to absorb having to having foreign policy. policy. In In fact, fact, quite quite the the oppooppocase. the case. been the has been site has for doing so? Large numbers of slave owners, as reasonable plan plan for reasonable as site been genhas been America has Latin America in Latin intervention in American intervention North American genhappened in Brazil, discarded their former labor as quickly happened quickly as as North often counter-productive. and often covert and limited, frequently counter-productive. frequently covert erally limited, accelerated to replace them immigration could be accelerated immigration them with with Italian, Italian, erally Freely elected Latin American governments were destabilized and German and Japanese laborers. Would you have expected that these FreelyelectedLatinAmericangovemmentsweredestabilizedand GermanandJapaneselaborers.Wouldyouhaveexpectedthatthese American North American to North more sympathetic with governments sympathetic to governments more replaced with overwhelming numbers of displaced Africans and their descendents replaced overwhelmingnumbersofdisplacedAfricansandtheirdescendents this that this suggest that would suggest Some would interests. Some business interests. and/or business been able would have been political and/or would able to to secure secure capital, capital, or or influence, influence,to to avoid avoid political was a necessity during the Cold War. Regardless, the consequences becoming a drain on the economy? Would you have expected them wasanecessityduringthecoldwar.Regardless,theconsequences becomingadrainontheeconomy?Wouldyouhaveexpectedthem economic development, and and economic sociopolitical and retarded sociopolitical included retarded to stop procreating? As their numbers increased the weight ofthem included tostopprocreating?Astheirnumbersincreasedtheweightofthem and were Americans were Latin Americans that Latin unwarranted perception an unwarranted reinforced an society, as happened on society, perception that happened in on in Brazil, Brazil, would would also also have have increased. increased. reinforced that aa assume that to assume have to we have So we themselves. So governing themselves. ofgoverning of incapable by the sweat and blood of built by society built American society The North American incapable of The by foreign activities by covert activities included covert have included would have history would revised history not revised would not we would and we them and fromthem awayfrom turnedaway have tuned would have labor would their labor foreign their economic and economic US sociopolitical undermined US that undermined on governments their presence oftheir factor of the limiting avoid the to avoid able to been able have been sociopolitical and governments that presence on limiting factor have North growl. we North that we imagining that Is anyone growth. Is social growth. and social economic and anyone imagining growth. economic Did you know that the fabulous national highway system here Americans would have been less racist and more thoughtful in our Americanswouldhavebeenlessracistandmorethoughtfulinour Didyouknowthatthefabulousnationalhighwaysystemhere American ofNorth outgrowth of merely aa natural outgrowth not merely US was not the US in the handling of such large numbers of former slaves? Does anyone not in handlingofsuchlargenumbersofformerslaves?Doesanyonenot North American never have never you have mostyou thatmost betthat tobet willingto bewilling I'dbe growth? I'd economic growth? 1960s economic the 1960s ofthe Movementof Rights Movement Civil Rights theCivil untilthe wasn'tuntil that itit wasn't recall that recall even questioned what prompted creation ofso many fine roads that for evenquestionedwhatpromptedcreationofsomanyfineroadsthat some hope realize some truly realize to truly began to firstbegan Americans first African Americans that African hope for that have so effectively served commerce. Those roads weren't always sharing in the American dream? And do we not recognize that, even havesoeffectivelyservedcommerce.Thoseroadsweren'talways sharingintheAmericandream?Anddowenotrecognizethat,even resulted system resulted highway system nationalhighway ournational ofour bulk of The bulk though. The there though. far from establishing parity of opportunity between there are far we are today, we today, from our fear, during the 1950s, that we would end up in a nuclear races? the races? the fromourfear,duringthe1950s,thatwewouldendupinanuc]ear Union. Soviet Union. the Soviet with the war with Suppose that Lincoln had been assassinated three years earlier. war SupposethatLincolnhadbeenassassinatedthreeyearsearlier. Or that Germany had won the First World War? Ifthere hadn't been when II was in grade but when you, but to you, improbable to seems improbable that seems Maybe that OrthatGermanyhadwontheFirstWorldWar?Iftherehadn'tbeen Maybe the preeminent be the States be United States the United would the War would World War Second World preeminent schoolwehadnuclearwardrillsjustasschoolchildrentodayhave school we had nuclear war drills just as school children today have aa Second tornado drills. My grandfather built a bomb shelter and stored root economic and industrial power it is today? Did you know that when tomadodrills.Mygrandfatherbuiltabombshelterandstoredroot economicandindustrialpoweritistoday?Didyouknowthatwhen USArmy theUS ofthe Staffof ofStaff Chiefof McArthur was appointed Army vegetables, appointed Chief Douglas MCArthur water, blankets, Douglas vegetables, water, blankets, batteries batteries and andcanned cannedgoods goodsthere. there. Bombers from Bunker Hill, later renamed Grissom, Air Force base in the 1930s our army ranked 16 in the world behind Portugal and BombersfromBunkerHill,laterrenamedGrissom,AirForcebase inthe1930sourarmyranked16thintheworldbehindPortugaland knickandknickwindowsand rattled windows weapons rattled nuclear weapons carrying nuclear ofcarrying North capable ofNorth explosion of an explosion triggered an war triggered ofwar outbreak of The outbreak Greece? The Greece? capable of Industrialgrowth andproduction. industrialcapacity Americanindustrial growthinin knacks production.Industrial capacityand our ofour Muchof barrier. Much sound barrier. the sound broke the they broke as they housesas ourhouses in our knacksin American evacuation to provide constructedto was constructed networkwas highwaynctwork nationalhighway the US triggered explosive economic growth after the war. And the national theUStriggeredexplosiveeconomicgrowthafterthewar.Andthe provideevacuation road beclogging would be whowould ofpeople millions of the millions for the routes for of routes absence of the absence in the incubated in US incubated the US ofthe growthof economicgrowth cloggingroad peoplewho explosiveeconomic explosive arteries when the bombs fell. What actually happened though was competition. serious competition. serious arterieswhenthebombsfell.Whatactuallyhappenedthoughwas life-blood the life-blood into the oxygen into moreoxygen evenmore breathedeven arteriesbreathed thosearteries thatthose have that wouldhave competitorwould economiccompetitor potential economic serious potential most serious Our most Our carcoastcartocoast coastto fromcoast rolledfrom Trucksrolled commerce.Trucks national commerce. US national ofUS its entire indus- of relocated its had relocated which had Union, which Soviet Union, old Soviet the old been the been toprotect Mountainsto Ural Mountains theUral ofthe sideof farside thefar infrastructuretotothe trialinfrastructure protect rying lower ourlower ofour comersof all comers toall produceto andproduce goodsand manufacturedgoods ryingmanufactured trial since Brazil never "revised" history our "revised" in our Not in states. Not 48 states. German onslaught. But, following the German from the itit from following the the war, war, the the USSR USSR 48 though, since history though, Eastern imagined later for the Eastern and later itself, and for itself, only for goods only produced goods initially produced destructive such destructive with such foe with byaafoe threatenedby directlythreatened itselfdirectly imagineditself initially and weaponry. Americansand NorthAmericans forNorth producedgoods Statesproduced UnitedStates The United Bloc.The weaponry. goodsfor Bloc. the Western World. Different markets meantthatthere was no direct Are you beginning to think ofthe respective situations in Brazil thewestemworld.Differentmarketsmeantthattherewasnodirect AreyoubeginningtothinkoftherespectivesituationsinBrazil dev- andtheUnitedStatesalittledifferentlynow?Ihopeso.Brazilians been devhad been Italian industry & Italian German, Japanese industry had Japanese & competition. German, and the United States a little differently now? I hope so. Brazilians competition. astated. British industry was recovering. Whatever the US produced are workhardworkarehard Braziliansare are. Brazilians weare. thanwe capablethan less capable orless moreor nomore areno astated.Britishindustrywasrecovering.WhatevertheUSproduced Cultural fearing. Cultural Godfearing. extent we the extent creative and-to ing, creative expansion of ing, triggered expansion war-time triggered it's war-time thanks to it's and, thanks selling and, was selling was and-to the we are areutod differences are accounted for by the differing origins oftheir people, was producing industrial capacity, industrial plenty. producing plenty. capacity, itit was differencesareaccountedforbythedifferingoriginsoftheirpeople, and the fact that even this influence has been tempered in different andthefactthateventhisinf]uencehasbeentemperedindifferent Factor War Factor The War deBritishdeandBritish British and PrimarilyBritish experiences. Primarily differentexperiences. by different ways by The ways determoredetermuchmore weremuch Stateswere UnitedStates theUnited ownersininthe slaveowners scendedslave scended rest mined therest thanthe harderthan workedharder US simply theUS weininthe thatwe ideathat Theidea simplyworked practices. religiouspractices. andreligious cultureand Africanculture nativeAfrican eliminatenative toeliminate minedto The The reasons why could spark an entire other discussion. The point that Thereasonswhycouldsparkanentireotherdiscussion.Thepoint ofthat resultof robustasasaaresult androbust victoriousand emergedvictorious andemerged worldand theworld ofthe of hard isthatAfricanslavesandtheirdescendantsinBrazilwerefarmbre arelargely Americans are we Americans sure we For sure founded. For wellfounded. notwell largelyhard is that African slaves and their descendants in Brazil were far more isis not them withthem broughtwith traditionalpractices successfulininpreserving working, God fearing, working,God fearing,people.Butitseemsprobablethathaditnot preservingtraditional people. But it seems probable that had it not successful practicesbrought Africa. WestAfrica. fromWest becomeasas from havebecome nothave wouldnot wewould Warwe WorldWar SecondWorld theSecond forthe been for been Tobacco, tea and cotton picked up some slack but competition was Tobacco,teaandcottonpickedupsomeslackbutcompetitionwas severe. Coffee proved to be another "boom" crop, but over producsevere.Coffeeprovedtobeanother"boom"crop,butoverproducmarkets so tion in good years artificially deflated prices on world markets off predictable that income in lean years was insufficient to ward off economic disaster. So, in our revisionist view ofhistory the United economicdisaster.So,inourrevisionistviewofhistorytheunited States would have, States have, until until only only recently, recently,experienced experiencedthe thesame samedisdiscycles. bust" cycles. & bust" "boom & economic "boom ruptive economic enough to long enough never have survived long States might might never The United States become an industrial giant had it not been for good fortune and the becomeanindustrialgianthaditnotbeenforgoodfortuneandthe from forcibly taken from have today was forcibly of what we have fact that so much of that anymore that history anymore in history study in anyone study Does anyone it. Does others who owned it. Do army? Do invading army? ofan hands of the hands at the burned at once burned our capital was once our an invading War of the Civil War course of the course easily the how easily recount how not recount classes not history classes Gettysburg? at Gettysburg? confederate army army won at might have turned had the confederate Do we stop to consider that the outcome ofthat conflict was a virtual Dowestoptoconsiderthattheoutcomeofthatconflictwasavirtual "pick over? was over? until itit was almost until em" almost "pick em"

2001 • JUNE2001 BRAZZIL -JUNE BRAZZIL

25 2§

Consequently,they'vemadesubstantiallygreatercontributions Consequently, they've made substantially greater contributions descendents in in to Brazilian society than African slaves and their descendents North America America were were able able to to make. make.There Thereexists existsthen, then,ininBrazil, Brazil,aa foundation for personal pride based on known heritage that has been foundationforpersonalpridebasedonknownheritagethathasbeen predenied African Americans. So well have African Brazilians preserved their cultural and religious practices that Africans have been servedtheirculturalandreligiouspracticesthatAfricanshavebeen known to make pilgrimage to Brazil to rediscover lost roots. Infact fact knowntomakepilgrimagetoBraziltorediscoverlostroots.In of African African descent descent in in Brazil Brazil than than in in any any there are more people of Nigeria. country other than Nigeria.

Brazilian Inspiration lf we really want to understand Brazil today it's important Ifwe important to to do so within the the context context of of Brazilian Brazilian history, history, and andit's it's important important to to avoid applying artificial standards that imply inherent superiority last issue issue smacks smacks of ofracism to me. me. What What based on character. This last racism to rationale, than racism, racism, could could account account for for inherent inherentgenetic genetic rationale, other than differences?WouldwebesuggestingthatBraziliansareinherently differences? Would we be suggesting that Brazilians are inherently more lazy or less intelligent? Is Is there any basis other other than racism racism for making such an an assertion? assertion? I find extraordinary inspiration in the dedication of of Brazilian Brazilian worktoredressinequalityandfosteropportunity.Hereintheunited work to redress inequality and foster opportunity. Here in the United States that challenge pales when compared to the majority of other Statesthatchallengepaleswhencomparedtothemajorityofother on earth. earth. But But ifif you you want want grandeur in Brazil Brazil you you can can find find places on grandeur in places that learn in in Brazil. Brazil. Places Places like like Salvador, Salvador, Rio Rio that too. There is much to learn de Janeiro and Recife Recife are treasure troves of of history. But study of of Brazil in in Brazil Brazil is is not supported by by an educational infrastructure infrastructure equal to what we we see seehere herein inthe theUS. us. Since Since the the majority majorityof ofBrazil's Brazil's earlyinhabitantswereslavelaborers,andsofewotherwise,nolarge early inhabitants were slave laborers, and so few otherwise, no large number of of educational educational institutions were were established early early on. on. The The elite elite class class in in society society maintained maintained its its for so so long long that that significant significant impetus impetus position for position for creating a significant significant educational educational infrainfrastructure structure was wasnever nevergenerated. generated.Near Nearwhere where A, II live in Indianapolis alonewe alone wehave haveIndiana Indiana "

University/PurdueuniversityoflndianapoUniversity/Purdue University of Indianapolis, Indianapolis, lis, the the university Universityofof Indianapolis,Butler Butler `...` " University University and and Marian Marian College. Within aa College. Within reasonably reasonably shortdistancearethe short distance are thelndianaand Indiana and `L

Purdue Purdue University main campuses in University main campuses in Bloomington and West respecWest Lafayette, Lafayette, respectively, Depaul University university some somedistance tively, and Depaul distance " tothewestoflndianapolis.InBrazilthereare tothewestoflndianapolis. In Brazil there are far far fewer fewer Universities Universitiesand andColleges than `` Collegesthan here. This been acachere. This would have have to have been counted counted for for in in our our revised revised history history scenario scenario

I:'''',

-1';

`' i I ..I I.

:;¥i3.; as well. A A little little more more food food for for thought thought will will furfurther ther put the us/Brazil US/Brazilcomparison comparisoninto intoperput the per- :.`. spective: spective: We We in in the United United States States are are easily easily tempted tempted to to attribute attribute the the mastery mastery of of our our lands lands to to the the purity ofgreat great leadership early in in US US purity of leadership early history history and romantic romantic notions notions of of pioneers conquering conquering lands lands inhabinhabited founding fathers although ited only by savages. In fact most of our founding although clearly remarkable men, owned owned other other human human beings. "Manifest clearly remarkable beings. ``Manifest Destiny" Destiny" is is often articulated as ajustifiable a justifiable reason reason for for the the then then "inevitable" all "inevitable"westward westwardexpansion thatconsolidated consolidatedUS UShold holdof ofall expansionthat lands lands between between the the Atlantic Atlantic and and Pacific Pacific oceans. oceans. What What would would be be the the perspective perspective of ofnative native North North American American lndiansonthatrationale?AcquisitionofTexasandcalifomia(also Indians on that rationale? Acquisition ofTexas and California(also Arizona Arizona and and New New Mexico Mexico II think) think) was was orchestrated orchestrated in in ways ways that that some have suggested were questionable. The Louisiana Purchase, somehavesuggestedwerequestionable.TheLouisianaPurchase, which which ceded ceded large sections of ofthe the middle middle of ofthe the North North American American large sections continent continent to to us, us, occurred occurred because because France France was in a desperate situation. And And Alaska, Alaska, when when we ation. we purchased purchased it, it, was was thought thoughtto to be beno no bargain at all. all. In In fact, fact, the the man man who championed the effort was bargain at viewedwithcontempt.Hislastnamewassewardandthepurchase viewed with contempt. His last name was Seward and the purchase was was known known as as "Seward's "Seward's folly". folly". ThemajorityofBrazilians,likethemajorityofAustralians,live The majority ofBrazilians, like the majority of Australians, live near the case case in in Australia, Australia,the themost mosthospihospinear the the coast because, as is the table table territory territory isis away away from from the the interior. interior. Slavery Slavery in in the the US US ended ended in in aa great great bloodletting. bloodletting. In In Brazil Brazil itit was was simply decreed to to an an end. end. simply decreed as well.

26 26

In the United States government has has been been more more stable stable and, and, since since the revolution, we have always had representative government with therevolution,wehavealwayshadrepresentativegovemmentwith transition of ofpower from one one administration administration to to the the next. next. power from peaceful transition peaceful did not not embrace embrace our our form form When Brazil declared independence itit did of government;ititembraced embracedaamonarchy monarchy of ofits its own. Ifyou If you rememrememofgovemment; ber how Brazil evolved this will be understandable. Power in in Brazil ber understandable. Power always transitioned has not always transitioned peacefully, peacefully, although although the the nature natureof of differed somewhat somewhat from from military military Brazilian military dictatorships differed America. But that's clearly clearly aa dictatorships elsewhere in Latin America. for another another time. time. subject for subject didn't become become aa "bread "bread basket basket for for the the world" world" simply simply The US didn't working harder or employing by working employing intrinsically intrinsically superior superior farming faming practices. How farming should be practiced depends on the climate practices.Howfarmingshouldbepracticeddependsontheclimate

and the soil. Tropical soils are are generally far less less fertile than than soils soils generally far in temperate regions and North American farming farming practices practices often often in aren't very effective there. there. very effective aren't Ford discovered Henry Ford discovered that when when he he lost untold millions of ofland of dollars trying to grow rubber trees on a parcel of land (the size of that he he purchased purchased in inthe theAmazon. Amazon.After After 14 14 years years Connecticut) that he just and abandoned abandoned the the effort. effort. Daniel Daniel (1924-1938) he gave up up and (1924-1938) just gave Ludwig repeated Ford's errors decades later (1967-1982), Ludwig (1967-1982), except except that he was attempting to grow fruit trees and trees for paper. Ludwig thathewasattemptingtogrowfruittreesandtreesforpaper.Ludwig constructed aa 17-story l7-story pulp mill in in Japan Japan and and had had itit towed towed on on pulpmill even constructed a barge for 17,000 miles across the Indian and Atlantic Ocean's and abargeforl7,000milesacrossthelndianandAtlanticocean'sand then several hundred miles up the Amazon to a private deep-water thenseveralhundredmilesuptheAmazontoaprivatedeep-water port he'd installed there. End result? Ludwig lost more than a bill ion porthe'dinstalledthere.Endresult?Ludwiglostmorethanabillion dollars. dollars.

And the idea thatBrazil, or anyone, should beableto "pull themAndtheideathatBrazil,oranyone,shouldbeableto"pullthemselves up by their bootstraps"? That grew out ofa North American selvesupbytheirbootstraps"?ThatgrewoutofaNorthAmerican

•'1!t\f;i.;" 1++,4

philosophy institutionalized institutionalized in in the the philosophy 1950s. 195 0s. It was was known known as the "Ameri"Ameri-

%asnn¥t%#;hej,:;'f::tdt|::jrisee)nttheadt can Work Ethic" and represented US national belief(atthetime)that we emerged emerged as as the the greatest greatest nation nation we on the the earth earth because because we we simply simply on harder. "Operation d::iB:...Pr_f,„ „>€ „~jul worked worked harder. "OperationBootBootI..-- 1,l.nr.unTJ,..strap", strap", in fact, name in fact, waswas the the name of aofa military Rico I militaryoperation operation in in Puerto puerto Rico -'l:£lrr designed designed to to elevate elevate life life on on that that isisland by infusing our work ethic into #`t,;+tnnn landbyinfusingourworkethicinto society there. The truth, as I already societythere.Thetruth,aslalready noted, is is that North Americans are noted, are (by arid and large) large) truly truly hard hard working working (by people. But "but for the grace of .f§Rd,,wf##`;':k":`r`° Goel' People But "6#f/or JAefortune grace a/ so to to speak our good good speak God" so our fortune mightbe be far far less less than than itit has has come cometo to might be. be. There'sso somuch much to to understand understand There's about Brazil. I haven't even touched aboutBrazil.Ihaven'teventouched on the the large large numbers numbers of ofnon-Afrinon-Afrion can-Brazilians who who are are also also living living can-Brazilians on the the margins of society. Many have been displaced from interior interior margins of displaced from on lands that that technology to gain control technology isis increasingly increasingly finding findingways ways to gain control lands of. Many Many live live in in the thedesert-like desert-likeregions thecac7/i.#gr in Bahia Bahia caatinga in regionsofofthe of. and the the ser/Go sert~o elsewhere in the Northeast. and Northeast. The MST, MST, or or "landless "landless movement" isis aa force force to to be be reckoned reckoned with with in in Brazil Brazil and and peasants movement" peasants is something that every serious studentofBrazil should know about. issomethingthateveryseriousstudentofBrazilshouldknowabout. haven'teven even mentioned mentioned the the Amazon, Amazon, the Pantanal and the great II haven't of Foz de lguapu, energy-producing region of Igua~u, the energy-producing the world's largest. The upside ofBrazilian potential today is more and more being TheupsideofBrazilianpotentialtodayismoreandmorebeing realized. Brazil has realized remarkable progress since the military realized.Brazilhasrealizedremarkableprogresssincethemilitary dic.tatorship ended ended inin 1985. 1985. Brazilians Brazilians frequently this frequently challenge challenge this dictatorship conclusion, perhaps perhaps because because so so many many of of them are still waiting to conclusion, share in in that that progress. progress. But But Brazil Brazil has has become a stable, free entershare prise based, based, society society governed governed by freely elected elected leaders. leaders. by freely prise The Catholic CatholicChurch Churchin in Brazil Brazil was was aa powerful powerful influence influenceon onits its The development and I probably should have contrasted that with what developmentand1probablyshouldhavecontrastedthatwithwhat happened herein the United States. Brazil is just so large and diverse happenedhereintheunitedstates.Brazilisjustsolargeanddiverse and interesting. interesting. Traveling Travelingthere therecan can be be aa special made special experience experiencemade and more special special by by careful careful preparation and study. as preparation and study. Understanding Understandingas more much as as you you can can about about Brazil Brazil before before going going there therewill will allow allowyou much you to really really focus on the journey, then, to the experience. experience. The Thejourney, then, should shouldprove prove to be be all all the the more more memorable, memorable, enjoyable and worthwhile. enjoyable and to BRAZZIL -JUNE - JUNE 2001 2001 BRAZZIL

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amargar", amargar", aa gente costumava reclamar reclamar oo tempo todo no no tempo todo Alfredo Grupo Grupo Escolar Alfredo Galdino, Paraguagu,uma uma Galdino, em Paragua~u, cidade cidade de de quase 10.000 quase 10.000 habitantes habitantes no no sudeste sudeste do do Brasil. Brasil. Pior Pior que que aquele aquele marasmo de de cidade cidade pequena pequena marasmo nos meados mos meados dos dos anos anos 60, 60, s~ s6 28 28

"Thistownjuststinks,"we "This townjuststinks," we

used to to say say ititall allthe thetime time at at used Alfredo Galdino Galdino Elementary Elementary Alfredo School, where, where, in in the School, the midmid1960s, most most ofus of us had had the the same 1960s, about Paraguacu, opinion about Paraguaqu, a opinion town of 10,000 ofapproximately town approximately 10,000 southeasternBrazil Brazil.. peopleinin southeastern people Worsethan than that thatsluggish little sluggish little Worse town, there there was was only one spot town, in the entire entire world: Paraguncu Paragua~u in BRAZZIL -JUNE - JUNE 2001 2001 BRAZZIL

um lugar na face mesmo urn face da da terra: terra: aa pr~pria pr6pria Paragua~u Paragua¢u debaixo de chuva, ja ja que que tinhamos tinhamos que que ficar ficar em emcasa, casa,de depapo papopara paraooar. ar. mas no vergonhoso, mas dizer e~ vergonhoso, tenho aa dizer O que que tenho 0 nao aconteceu aconteceu por por acaso: muitos de n6s, n6s, garotos garotos que que n~o nao sabiam sabiam como como estragar estragar aa inf~ncia diante da TV, ador~vamos infancia adoravamos insultar ee fazer fazer galhofa galhofa dos dos que havia avisado que tinham avisado exc~ntricos da cidade. Os adultos j~ tinham excentricos adultosja se tinham se primos tinham Paragua~u porque porque primos tantos doentes mentais em Paraguacu sobrinhas, etc. com sobrinhas, tios com primas, tios casado com primas, etc. ee tal. tal. lsso Issonao nao sempre est~vamos sempre N~s estavamos n~s. N6s l~ muita coisa para para n6s. significava la Ent~o a gente descontava falta do que fazer. Entao com aa falta aborrecidos com aborrecidos bem com que se davam bern naqueles que naqueles com aamansid~o mansidao geral. geral. Os Osmalucos, malucos, viravam o principal ento, viravam principal alvo de nossa frustra~~o entao, frustragao coletiva. coletiva. na bater na de bater cansavam de se cansavam n~o se nossos pais verdadeque pais nao quenossos iEverdade mesma tecla, lembrando lembrando que que era era rude rude incomodar incomodar qualquer qualquer os inocentes principalmente os pessoa, principalmente pessoa, inocentes que que aparentemente aparentemente um parafuso careciam de urn careciam parafuso ou ou dois dois na moringa. moringa. E E era era perigoso, perigoso, tamb~m, porque os doentes mentais tamb6m, mentais no nao eram eram respons~veis responsaveis por por ~ramos umas pestes e precis~vamos Mas e dai? Ns a~~es. Mas suas ac5es. suas N6s 6ramos precisavamos modo. algum modo. de algum energia de gastar energia gastar era deles era Um deles aluados. Urn de alguns verdade gostavamos alguns aluados. gost~vamos de Na verdade Marechal o Lenhador, um negro de sorriso largo, com cinq~enta MarechaloLenhador,umnegrodesorrisolargo,comcinqtienta achava que idade. Eu pessoalmente achava de idade. anos de tantos anos aquele que aquele ee tantos homem tinha algo de sensacional. homem sensacional. Gostava Gostava do do seu seu cheiro, cheiro, por por causa do charuto barato que morava nas beiras dos lbios, aceso causadochamtobaratoquemoravanasbeirasdoslabios,aceso um certo ou apagado. apagado. De ou De cabelos cabelos grisalhos, grisalhos, ele demonstrava urn nada. de nada. troco de divertia aa troco nos divertia orgulho ee com freq~~ncia orgulho freqti6ncia nos saisse mesmo velho uniforme, como se nunca safsse Empossando oo mesmo Empossando senhor gordinho e tranqtiilo moda, aquele de moda, tranq~ilo fazia brilhar ee aquele senhor de chacoalhar todo tipo de bugiganga, chacoalhar bugiganga, entre entre medalhas medalhas de dementira, mentira, fl~mulas, broches pequenas flamulas, pequenas broches de de material material de deterceira, terceira,e,e, curiosamente, ate mesmo um bracelete de escravo ( de verdade ). curiosamente,atemesmoumbraceletedeescravo(deverdade). mesmo ~e que Bern, o que importa importa mesmo Bern, que oo velho velho adorava contar contar est~rias que pareciam noter mais fim. Voc~ tinha que ter muita est6riasquepareciamnaotermaisfiin.Vocetinhaquetermuita paci~ncia. Ao cumprimentar a todos que encontrava pelas ruas, paciencia.Aocumprimentaratodosqueencontravapelasruas, o Marechal descortinava seu sorriso cativante, ao mesmo tempo oMarechaldescortinavaseusorrisocativante,aomesmotempo Ent~o outrora). Entao de outrora). dentes de dos dentes saudade dos da saudade (apesarda natural (apesar doce ee natural doce logo tentava revelar para fulano e cicrano o seu passado mitico, logotentavarevelarparafulanoecicranooseupas§adomitico, no nunca esquecidas mas nunca envelhecidas mas lorotas envelhecidas de lorotas recheado de recheado esquecidas no dias. nossos dias. dos nossos infantil dos folclore infantil folclore sua da sua eram aqueles mais repetidos enredos mais dos enredos Alguns aqueles da repetidos eram Alguns dos apaixonada pela campanha pela contribui~~o a~ campanha mas infrutifera contribuicao apaixonada mas contava Tamb~m contava 1850. Tambem de 1850. anos de idosanos nosidos escravosnos dosescravos liberdadedos liberdade

Guerra duranteaa Guerra militardurante sua impecavel de sua campanhamilitar impec~vel campanha passagensde passagens do Paraguai, na d~cada segu inte. Cem anos mais tarde ( dava pra doparaguai,nadecadaseguinte.Cemanosmaistarde(davapra estava ele, em Paragua~u: l~ estava acreditar?), la acreditar?), Paraguacu: uns uns biscates biscates no nocorrer correr muita ostentagao dia, ee muita do dia, ostenta~~o pela do pela noite noite afora, afora, por por conta conta da da sua sua lenha das de lenha catador de ex-militar, agora de ex-militar, honra de agora catador desgastada honra desgastada locais. padarias locais. padarias da Ele gostava consci~ncia. Ele muitaconsciencia. tinhamuita notinha A criancada gostava da crianada nao A

de mentiroso de acredit~vamos naquele vezes acreditavamos ~s vezes e n6s as naquele mentiroso gente, e gente, pobre no pobre peas no umas pecas preg~vamos umas tamb~m pregavamos Mas tambem carteirinha. Mas carteirinha. come~aramaa explorar russoscome9aram americanoseerussos osamericanos Quandoos coitado.Quando explorar coitado. velha e garrafa velha uma garrafa Marechal uma ao Marechal demos ao n6s demos sideral, n6s espa~o sideral, oo espaco um liquido de urn suja, liquido amarelado. amarelado. Para Paranosso nossodeleite, deleite, suja, cheia de da mandado agua tinha mandado lhe tinha seu lhe amigo seu um amigo ele que dissemos aa ele ~guada que urn dissemos da cantoda todo canto se gabava homem se que oo homem disso que era disso Lua. EE era Lua. por todo gabava por contribuidopara haviacontribuido desalmados havia de desalmados levade cidade. Aquela Aquela leva cidade. paraoo urina. deurina. amostraquente umaamostra comuma quentede presentecom presente Havia outro pirado na cidade, com quem conviviamos quase Haviaoutropiradonacidade,comquemconviv{amosquase dos faixa dos na faixa idade na com idade Esse companheiro, diariamente. Esse companheiro, com que diariamente. que de combina~~o de estranha combinaeao uma estranha anos, representava vinteee poucos vinte representava uma poucos anos, Como debang-bang. filmesde defilmes bandidode californianoeebandido hippie bang-bang.Como hippiecaliforniano uma roupa vestindo uma ruas vestindo nas ruas aparecia nas tamb~m aparecia eletamb6m Marechal, ele oo Marechal, estilizada. Al em das botas de vaqueiro, com pequenos sinos nos estilizada.Alemdasbotasdevaqueiro,compequenossinosnos um com urn branca com malha branca de malha camiseta de umacamiseta usavauma eleusava calcanhares,ele calcanhares, 2001 - JUNE2001 BRAZZIL -JUNE BRAZZIL

itself, in itself, in the the rain, rain, since sincewe wewould wouldhave havetotostay stayhome, home, breeze. the breeze. shooting the shooting It was It was aa shame, shame, but butnot notby bychance, chance,that thatsosomany manyofof us kids, us kids, who who still still did did not not know know how how to towaste wastechildhood childhood in front in front of of the the TV, TV, took took to to insulting insulting and and playing playingpranks pranks us told us had told streets. the in folks mad the on Grown-ups had on the mad folks in the streets. Grown-ups cousin Paragua~u so many were so there were there many loonies loonies in Paraguacu because because cousins had ins had married married their their cousins, cousins,uncles unclestheir theirnieces, nieces,and and by We were us. We to us. much to mean much not mean did not on. That so on. so That did were bored bored by who those on out it took we so town, in action of lack the the lack of action in town, so we took it out on those who got along with that drowsiness. The lunatics became our gotalongwiththatdrowsiness.Thelunaticsbecameour dearest target. target. dearest our parents never tired. They often reminded true It's It'strueourparentsnevertired.Theyoftenreminded bother anyone, rude to was rude it was that it us that us to bother anyone, especially especially the the their in their loose in screw loose had aa screw that apparently innocent guys apparently had guys that innocent heads. ItIt was heads. was dangerous dangerous too, too, because because the the eccentrics eccentrics cared? who cared? But who did. But what they forwhat weren'tresponsible they did. responsiblefor weren't were naughty, We were naughty, and We and we we needed needed to to do do something something to to going. keep going. keep them ofthem One of loonies. One the loonies. ofthe some of liked some We actually actually liked We black man Marshall, aa black was Marshall, was man of of broad broad smiles, smiles, in inhis hislate late smelled and smelled cool and looked cool he looked thought he fifties. II personally personally thought fifties. great,just because ofthe cut-rate cigar he constantly kept great,justbecauseofthecut-ratecigarheconstantlykept mouth, lighted his mouth, of his corner of either corner in either in lighted or or laid laid out out for for and he was proud, Marshall was proud, and Gray-haired Marshall display. Gray-haired display. he enterenterof charge. free of often, free us quite tained us charge. Wearing quite often, tained Wearing the the same same it were if it uniform, as old uniform, old as if were not not going going out out of of style, style,the the sorts all sorts with all clattered with and clattered shone and man shone mellow man chubby mellow chubby as miniature such as ofjunk, such ofjunk, miniature banners, banners,make-believe make-believemednedeven rather and, brooches, brass als, cheap als, cheap brass brooches, and, rathercuriously, curiously, even real thing). (the real bracelet (the slave bracelet thing). aa slave that the is that matters is what matters Well, what Well, the old old man man loved loved telling telling You had stories. You long stories. long, long long, had to to be be patient. patient. Upon Upon greeting greeting he would streets, he the streets, in the anyone in anyone would unveil unveil an an endearing, endearing, old the good missed the he missed ( evenififhe smile(even natural smile and natural sweet and good old sweet immediwould immediMarshall would Then, Marshall ofyesteryears). teeth of yesteryears). Then, teeth unfold, again to unfold, again and try to ately try ately and again, again, his his mythic mythicpast past imaginary tales, through imaginary through tales, which, which,no nomatter matterhow howold, old, his ofhis Some of folklore. Some our folklore. ofour vital part remain aa vital would remain part of would but passionate but his passionate with his do with to do had to narratives had repetitive narratives repetitive fruitless contribution to the slaves' struggle for freedom, fruitlesscontributiontotheslaves'struggleforfreedom, milihis impeccable of his adventures of the adventures or the 1850s, or the 1850s, in the impeccable miliin denext dethe next in the War, in the Paraguayan in the Paraguayan War, campaign in tary campaign tary believe it?), (would you later (would hundred years One hundred cade. One it?), you believe years later cade. jobs, was, in he was, there he there in Paragua~u: Paraguacu: daytime daytimedoing doingodd oddjobs, as aa status as officerstatus worn-outofficer off his won-out showing off nighttime showing nighttime bakeries. local bakeries. forthe firewoodfor collectedfirewood thatcollected Marshallthat Marshall the local we and we us, and liked us, He liked better. He know better. not know did not kids did We kids We weplayed Butwe liar. But full-time liar. that full-time believed that sometimes believed played sometimes and Americans and When Americans too. When the poor on the tricks on our tricks guytoo. poorguy our we gave outer space, to explore outer started to Russians started space, we Russians with aa yellowish filled with bottle, filled old dirty an old Marshall an yellowish dirty bottle, Marshall that an him that told him we told his delight, Forhis delight, we liquid. For liquid. an old old friend friend of of that's And that's Moon. And the Moon. from the water from some water him some sent him hadsent hishad his town. abouteverywhere boastabout wouldboast Marshallwould whatMarshall everywhereinintown. what little bastards, vile little kids, vile uskids, ofus coursemany Ofcourse many of Of bastards, had had urine. oururine. ofour hottestof thehottest with the the gift in the giftwith chipped in chipped This with. This around with. hungaround wehung guywe also aaguy was also There was There twenty years nearly twenty buddy, nearly buddy, years old, old, stood stood for for aa strange strange tum alsoturn wouldalso Hewould andgangster. combinationofofhippie gangster.He combination hippie and the high Besides the attire. Besides in stylized streets in the streets in the high up in up stylized attire. bells by unusual jingle with unusual boots, with cowboy boots, cowboy jingle bells by the the ankles, ankles, with aahuge T-shirtwith white T-shirt wore aawhite he wore peace-and-love hugepeace-and-love he side. AApurple front side. the upper on the ink on blue ink in blue purple upper front symbol in symbol jeans. Long, his only, tied his waistband tied Long, waistband only, worn-out won-out pair pair of ofjeans. 29 29

enorme simbolo de paz e amor azul na altura do peito. Uma correia

pdrpuraseguravaunsjeansbemdesbotadoseremendados-talvez sua inica calca. Longos cabelos loiros, quase sempre oleosos, as vezes cobriam os olhos azuis grandes, palidos e irrequietos. N6s todos o chamavamos de Bandido da Lua, mas ele nao se importava. 0 Bandido adorava a gente. Nos pap6is de indios, bebados ou

policiais, abriamos fogo uns contra os outros (s6 de brincadeira), e faziamos tudo para que ele, o bandido, sempre nos matasse. 0 pessoal da cidade soltava diferentes est6rias sobre o que causara a doenga mental do Bandido. Alguns diziam que ele tinha caidodebicicletaebatidoacabeganoparalelepipedo;paraoutros, o problema vinha do alcoolismo do seu pai. De qualquer modo, as

pessoas da cidade nao se importavam tanto com a origem dos problemas do Bandido, mas, sim, com as consequencias. Com certeza, o prazer maior de cada dia daquele Bandido era arriscado. Costumava entrar para urn lugar ptlblico, urn bar ou mercearia, por exemplo, cobrindo o rosto com urn lenco vermelho. "Maos ao alto, pessoal", ele gritava, apontando o indicador para diferentes pessoas a cada instante, como se a sua mao direita por si s6 constitufsse urn revolver. Poucos segundos ap6s assustar a todosospresentes,principalmenteaquelesquenuncaouviramfalar da loucura do rapaz, o Bandido da Lua era tomado por urn certo riso encabulado. Em seguida se desculpava: "Sinto muito, gente boa, mas esta tudo bern. Isso aqui foi s6 uma brincadeira". 0 tiro imaginario do Bandido da Lua estava condenado a sair pela culatra urn dia, todo mundo achava. E realmente aconteceu. Foi quando ele pulou para dentro do Banco do Estado de Minas Gerajs e repetiu o esquema tradicional. 0 guarda-de-seguranca tinha mudado de outra cidade. Era jovem e imaturo, e,

provavelmente, bastante nervoso. A cena do Bandido acontecia as suas costas. 0 guarda deu urn giro e urn tiro quase certeiro. A bala atingiu o rapaz fantasiado na orelha direita, despedacando-a. Ela aindalhefraturouumapequenaparteposteriordocranio,masnada mais.

0 Dr. Oscar Gabeira tratou bern da vitima. Afinal de contas, o Bandido nao foi tao azarado. Aquela experiencia quase tragica otransformouemummo9obastantecalmo.Hojeenldiaeledetesta fingir de criminoso, e ele nao tolera qualquer brincadeira de mau gosto. Entre outros excentricos bern conhecidos, havia ainda o baixinho e barulhento Anisio, tambem conhecido como o Anao Desmiolado. Ele nao mora mais em Paraguagu. No verao de 1990 eu o encontrei. N6s dois visitavamos nossa terra natal. Quando lhe perguntei se tinha saudade de Paraguaeu, Ani'sio disse que sin, mas que nao estava interessado em voltar para la. 0 que ouvi de Anisio a seguir me deixou ao mesmo tempo embara¢ado quanto ao seu passado e suspeito quanto ao seu presente. De fato, ele

pareciabememcontroledesuasfaculdades.Soava ben franco, alias. Disse que gostava de Poeos de Caldas, uma cidade turistica de certo charme, ali pelas montanhas do Sul de Minas. Mal escondendo uma desconfortavel onda de vaidade, Anfsio olhou

para o chao e comentou em voz baixa: "Sou urn born porteiro em urn pequeno hotel la. i 6timo. Ninguem me enche a paciencia. Ninguem sabe que eu sou louco". Nao sei por quais transformac6es ele passara, mas sem ddvida percebia que elas o tomaram uma pessoa diferente: bern mais gentil e reservado do que aquele Anao Desmiolado que todos conheciamos de decadas atras. / Nos anos 60 e principios dos anos 70, ele parecia que gastava toda a sua energia juvenil na esfera ptlblica. Para a maioria das 30

curly blonde hair, nearly always greasy, sometimes covered his wobbly, big pale blue eyes. We called him Butt-Head the Gunslinger, but he did not mind. He loved us, since we played battles with him and made sure he, the bandit, always killed us, Indians, drunkards or cops. The townsfolk circulated different rumors about whatcausedButt-Headtobecrazy.Somesaidhehad a bicycle accident and hit the cobblestone with his head; some said his Dad was a terrible alcoholic. Just the same: in reality, Paraguacu people did not care much about the origins of hts problems, but their consequences. ForsuretheGunslinger'sgreatestdailythrillwas risky.He'drunintoapublicplace,likeabaroragroeery store, hiding his face with a red handkerchief. "Hands up everybody," he shouted, pointing out at

different people as if his right hand itself were a revolver. Seconds after scaring everyone, especially those who hadn 't learned about him, the Gunslinger would burst into a self-conscious chuckle. He would then apologize, "Sorry, folks. You're okay. This was

just a joke." Butt-Head the Gunslinger' s tricks were likely to backfire one day, townsfolk often said. And it did. ThatwaswhenhepoppedintotheMinasGeraisstate Bank and repeated the traditional skit. The security

guardh.adrecentlymovedfromoutoftown.Hewas kind of young and silly, and probably very nervous too. The scene was happening behind his back. He tuned around and shot Butt-Head. The bullet hit him intherightear,burstingitintopieces.Itstillchipped the rear of his skull, but nothing else. Dr. Oscar Gabeira took care of him. Gunslinger was not too unfortunate, after all. The nearly tragic experience turned him into a mellow young man. Today he hates acting as an outlaw; he can't stand any foul play. Among the other popular lunatics there was the short and loud Anisio, the guy known as the Crazy Dwarf. He no longer lives in Paraguacu. In the summer of 1990 I met him while both of us visited our hometown. Wrhen I asked him if he missed Paraguacu, he said he did but was not willing to move back. \h/hat Anisio said next made me feel just as awkward about his past as suspicious about his present. He lookedverymuchincontrolofhimself. He sounded quite candid, actually. He said he liked living in

Po¢osdecaldas,aquaintneighboring city in the south of Minas. Barely hiding an uneasy sense of pride, he looked down and commented in low-key: "I'm a good doorman at a small hotel there. It's great. Nobody bugs me. Nobody knows I'm crazy." I did not know what sort of changes Anisio had gone through, but I certainly recognized they had made him quite a differentperson:muchmoregentleandreservedthan BRAZZIL -JUNE 2001

pessoas, acho, ele era tao alegre quanto inconveniente.

0 rapaz era espalhafatoso em quase todo sentido da palavra.Adoravacantarcan¢6esbregasdotipo"Receba as flores que lhe dou / em cada flor urn beijo meu".

Quando nao estava carregando urn autofalante portatil, velhoeenferrujado,elefechavaopunhodireitoelevava a boca, fingindo que se tratava de microfone. Sua voz nao era nada rna, mas desconhecia limites. Comsuavozvolumosanoarpreguigosode Paraguacu, Anl'sio ocasionalmente parava de cantar para se dirigir a qualquer pessoa. na rua, sem se importar se estava interrompendo conversas alheias. 0 Anao Desmiolado era urn cantor desassossegado,porcerto,mastamb6mum animado vendedor ambulante. Subindo e descendo as ladeiras da cidade, ele nao apenasvendiabroasdemilhoqdeguardava em uma cesta de bambu, como tamb6m anunciava a programagao semanal do Cine

`:r#;a;o:zti#:ii:s::dsueas:c[r:°io:s:I;ifd6::P::iaa%::9;:n Reuston e todos aqueles le6es romanos". Em frente a urn de n6s, vinha mais propa-

ganda: "i s6 hoje, queridinho. Vai la e traz la papal e mamae para o Cine iris hoje a noite".

Naqueles anos, as pessoas diziam que apenasduascoisasdeixavamoAnisioainda mais louquinho. Era o time de futebol do Palmeiras (e como gostava de discutir sobre as partidas e os talentos superiores dos seus jogadores!); e era bobagem, a qualquer hora e em qualquer lugar (uma ere¢ao em ptiblico nao parecia incomoda-lo nem urn pOucO!).

Para n6s, o Anao Desmiolado era uma personagem favorita em uma serie de est6rias que escutavamos, inventavamos e espalhavamos sobre certas pessoas da cidade. Nao queriamos causar nenhum mal a ninguem; era s6 uma questao de entreter-mos uns aos outros urn bocadinho. O Anao era especial porque, acima de tudo, mos tinha dado uma experiencia fantastica, o tipo de aventura que virou fofoca e motivo de orgulho para n6s por varios anos. As pessoas mais velhasja tinham dito que o homem era urn "tarado". A gente pensava que ele era mesmo estranho, por cantar e gritar nas ruas, mas a gente nao entendeu direito a advertencia que mos passaram os adultos. Tinhamos que ver para ter uma ideia do que se tratava. E olha que foi coisa do outro mundo. Urn fim de tarde, depois das aulas, cinco de n6s fomos brincar de esconde-esconde no quintal ao lado da loja de meu pai. Era la que as pessoas da roca "estacionavam" seus cavalos para que elas pudessem

comprar roupas e sapatos. Depois de pular o muro, ouvimos urn som estranho, urn tipo de grunhido vindo do outro lado da cerca de bambu, urn espago estreito e cheio de estrume ao fundo do lote. De imediato, todos fixamos o olhar naquela direeao. 0 que vimos mos fez segurar o ar e arregalar os olhos por alguns segundos. Julinho, o mais falador da turma, suspirou que aquilo parecia uma figura do livro de Hist6ria: urn cavalo de duas cabeeas, uma em cada extremidade do bicho. Mas na verdade era o famoso BRAZZIL -JUNE 2001

he had ever been. In the 1960s and early 1970s, though, he would spend all his youthful energy in the public sphere. To most people, I guess, he was just as cheerful as inconvenient.Theguywasboisterousinjustabouteverysense of the word. He loved singing tacky songs through the streets, songs that ran like "Take all these flowers that I want to give you / Through each of them a kiss of mine." When he was not carrying an old, rusty portable loudspeaker, he clenched his right fist, brought it up close to his mouth and pretended to hold a microphone. His voice was not bad at all, but it knew no limits. With his loud music in the lazy air of Paragua¢u, Anisio would

approach people in the streets and did not care a bit if he interrupted their conversations.

The Crazy Dwarf was a busy singer for sure, but also a cheerful peddler. Strolling

up and town the slopes of town, he sold com bread in a bamboo basket and advertised the movies showing at the old and only theater house in Paraguagu: "Don't miss it, folks! It's only tonight. It's

`Bengur,' a great movie with our hero `Shurston Herston' and all those big lions

in Rome." In front of some of us kids, he added, "It's only tonight, my dear. Bring Mama and Papa to Cine Iris, the cool fantasy house in Paraguaeu." ThatwasAnisio,whowouldrepeathimselfoverand over again and pinch and startle any little girl on the cheek, here and there, while saying a long, musical enigma-something like "phe-ee-ee-ka." The initiated knew it was a giddy, distorted rendition of the Portuguese word "//Aj.#focz" (little daughter). Back in the I 960s, people saidjust two things drove Anisio crazy. It was the palmeiras soccer team (and how he loved arguing about games and players!); and it was dirty sex, anytime, anywhere (an erection in public did not seem to bother him at all!).

To us kids, the Crazy Dwarf was a favorite character in a series of stories we heard, invented and re-told a thousand times about the townspeople. We did not meananyharm;wejustamusedoneanother.TheDwarf was special mostly because we once had an awesome experience with him, the sort of stuff we would gossip and brag about for ages in school. The older folks said the man was a "sex maniac." We thought he was bizarre by singing and shouting in the streets for nothing, but we could not quite catch what

they meant when they waned us about him. We sort of had to see it ourselves to have an idea. And it sure was something else! One late afternoon, after school, five of us were going to play hide-and-seek in the backyard right next to my dad's store. That's where the country

people "parked" their horses, so that they could go shopping for shoes and clothes. After hopping in there we heard this strange noise, some kind of groaning coming from beyond the bamboo fence, somewhere on the narrow, manure-filled backside of the lot. We all looked straight towards that end. What we saw made us hold our breath and stare straight ahead for a few seconds. Julinho, the most opinionated of the 31

Anisio. duas sobre duas An~o Desmiolado se encontrava de pe Anisio. O0 Anao p~ sobre

jovem ee satisfeita pilhas de pilhas de tijolos, tijolos, enquanto enquanto penetrava penetrava uma umajovem satisfeita e8ua. ~gua. Born, vou dizer dizer'uma coisa: ooAn~o Anao logo logodescobriu descobriu que quetin tinha ha uma coisa: espi6es e, ento, entao, pirou piroude deverdade. verdade.Acho Achoque quenenhum nenhum atr~s dele e, espi~es atras den6sjamaisti.veraquep6rtantafenaspemas.Istofoisegundos de n6s jamais tivera que p6r tanta f~ nas pemas. Isto foi segundos depois do diabo do Julinho Julinho ter ter aa coragem coragemde degritar, gritar,"Ah, "Ah,mas mas diabo do que vergonha que vergonha senhor senhor Anisio, Anfsio, An~o Anao Desmiolado. Desmiolado. Ent~o Entao oosenhor senhor esta egua! Vou Vou contar contar pra pra cidade cidade inteira, inteira, executando aa pobre da ~gua! est~ executando seu desgracado!" desgra~ado!" Rapidinho garotos j~ ja nos garotos Rapidinho n6s estavamos fugindo daquela cena cena est~vamos fugindo de becado sob oo Moviamos sob rural. Moviamos pecado rural. telhado da loja. baixo ee empenado telhado baixo loja. empenado da Laembaixomeupaifaziadinheiro L~em baixomeu pai fazia dinheiro e pagava era cima era em cima contas; aqui aqui em pagava contas; outra O sobreviv~ncia. O manobra de sobrevivencia. outra manobra as com as lidar com era lidar desafio era pr6ximo desafio proximo enormes teias de aranha tropicais de aranha tropicais grudandonorosto, bra~os e pernas. gmdandonorosto,bra¢osepemas. Engatinhando superficie naquela superficie Engatinhando naquela delajefria,escuraeempoeirada,as de laje fria, escurae empoeirada, ~s vezes as cabea ee as resvalavamos aa cabe€a vezes resvalavamos canelasempregosenfemujados,ou cane las em pre gos enferrujados, ou algo era edificio era parecido. 00 edificio algo parecido. um levando urn acabamos levando grande, ee acabamos grande, tempo atravessa-lo ate at~ tempo para atravess~-lo cairmos Por ruas. Por das ruas. liberdade das na liberdade cairmos na fim, conseguimos. Com aquele aquele fim, conseguimos. Anao Desmiolado na na nossa nossa cola, cola, apressamos apressamosooexpediente, expediente, Ano Desmiolado como edificio um edificio de urn ratos fugindo de ratos por~~o de uma porcao f~ssemos uma se fossemos como se fugindo de em chamas. em chamas.

whispered that group, whispered group, that the the whole whole thing thing looked looked like like aa picture picture in in his history book: a double-headed horse, one head his head on on each each end end short the short Anisio; the famous Anisio; the famous was actually the it was But it animal. But of the of the animal. man was standing on two piles of bricks, while penetrating a poor manwasstandingontwopilesofbricks,whilepenetratingapoor horse. female horse. satisfied female and satisfied young and young Well, I'll tell you what: the Dwarf soon realized he had spies Well,I'lltellyouwhat:theDwarfsoonrealizedhehadspies never had never ofus all of guess all mad. II guess really mad. turned really and turned him and behind him behind us had that after that was right after This was before. This way before. that way our legs legs that had to trust our dam Julinho had the guts guts to to shout, shout, "Huh, "Huh, what whataashame shameSenhor Senhor Dwarf. So Anisio, the Crazy Dwarf. Anisio, Soyou're you're screwing screwing the the poor poor mare! Gonna mare! Gonna tell tell the the whole whole town town about about it, it, son son ofa of a gun." gun." scene the scene from the flee from to flee were trying kids were we kids soon we trying to Pretty soon sin through of rural sin through the of the low, low, creaky, creaky, and anddreadful dreadfulwood wood red-tile the red-tile and the concrete ceiling the concrete between the framework between ceiling and framework made the dad made Down below, my store. Down the store. of the roof of my dad roof the bucks bucks his bills; up to pay his up there, it was enough to was another another attempt attempt to to survive. Next thing we knew was that a whole bunch of tropical cobweb was getting at our faces, arms and legs. :ruor;j`cvae,.cNo:X;et5!#:swgee#negway::rthfi::easyahr°J::::i:g°s: Crawling on that dusty, dark stony surface, we bumped our Crawlingonthatdusty,darkstonysurface,webumpedour and Now and rafters. Now and rafters. beams and rotten beams shins against and shins heads and against rotten heads we got aa scratch then, we then, scratch from from those those dam dam rusty rustynails, nails,or orsomesomeit took us was tough, and it was large. The building large. ItIt was building was thing. The thing. us a while to get to the streets. We finally made it, though. With awhiletogettothestreets.Wefinallymadeit,though.With at our heels, we moved Dwarfat Crazy Dwarf Crazy moved fast, fast, as as fast fastas asaahandhandhouse. old burning an old from an flee from would flee mice would of mice ful of burning house. ful in M.A. degree an M.A. with an storyteller with Borim is a storyteller Dario Borim degree in Dfrio Literature Brazilian Literature Ph.D.inin Brazilian andaaPh.D. Creative Writing Writingand Creative the at the teaches at now teaches He now Minnesota. He of Minnesota. University of the University from the from at him at reach him can reach You can Dartmouth.You Massachusetts Dartmouth. of Massachusetts University of University dborim@umassd.edu. dborim@umassd.edu.

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UNITED 33

HistoricalTowns Towns Historical SABARA SABARA Sabar~stands standson onthe themuddy muddybanks banksofofthe theRio Riodas dasVelhas Velhas Sabara (Old Ladies. Ladies' River). River). ItIt was was the the first first major major gold-mining gold-mining (Old center inin the the state, state, and and during during its its peck peak was the center was one one of of the world's wealthiest wealthiest world's towns. This This isis reretowns. flected in in its its houses, houses, flected mansions, churches, churches, mansions, statues,fountains fountains arid and statues, sacred art. art. Sabara Sabar~ isis sacred now aa poor town poor town now dominated by Belgian dominatedbyBelgian metalworks. In In the the metalworks. boom years years of of the the boom 1700s, when when the the early 1700s, early Rio das das Velhas V elhas was was Rio 15 times times wider, wider, slave slave 15 boats would would sail sail all all boats theway down the theRi Rio way down the S~0 Francisco Francisco fro from Sao Bahia. Sahara Sabar~ proproBahia. duced more more gold gold in in duced oneweek weekthan thanthe therest rest one ofBrazil Brazil produced produced in in of year. You You can can still still aa year. pan the the riverbed riverbed for for pan gold flakes, but the gold flakes, but the nuggets are long since nuggetsarelongsince gone. gone. Orientation & & Orientation Information Information Since it's it's only only 225 Since km and and half half an an hot hour ;eve_," -tr; kin , by bus bus from from Belo Belo by Horizonte, Sabara Sabar~ makes makes an an easy Horizonte, easy and interesting day trip. There's There'san aninformation informationbooth booth at at the the entrance entrance tto trip. town, but it's useless. The major sights are signposted town,butit'suseless.Themajorsights from Prapa Pra~a Santa Santa Rita anyway. from

iegm=:z

Churches Chur€h€s Most of of the the ch churches have small small ent entry fees. hes have Most

littleangel hisside sideshushing churchgoerswith withaafinger angelatathis shushingchurchgoers fingertoto little hislips. Thechurch churchisisopen from88am amtotonoon noonand and22toto66pin openfrom pm lips.The his daily. It's It'son onPrapa Pra~aGettilio Get~lioVargas. Vargas. daily.

deNossa NossaSenl]ot.a Senhora do do lgrejade Igreja 6 After surviving an attack attack by by his his own own troops troops in in 1720, I 720, surviving an After Captain Lucas Lucas Ribeiro Ribeiro de de Almeida Almeida Captain builtaachapel chapelininthanks thankstotothe theVirgin Virgin built Mary. Like Like Nossa Nossa Senhora Senhora de de Mary. Conceig~o, the the chapel chapel has has Oriental Oriental Conceigao, details, and and it's it'sjust just as as popular popular with details, pregnantwomen women(and (andthose thosewho whopray pray pregnant for fertility). It'splain onthe theoutside outside fertility). It's plainon for butgilded onthe theinside. inside. The The chapel gilded on chapel but givesnQ no clues clues as as to to the the meaning meaningof ofits its gives name, Our Our Lady Lady ofO. It'sopen from 88 open from name, ofo. It's am to to noon noon and and 22to to66pin. pm. am Igreja de de Nossa Nossa Senhora Senhora do do Igreja Rosario Rosfrio This half-built half-built church church on on Praca Pra~a This Melo Viana Viana was was started started and and financed financed Melo by slaves slaves but but was was never never finished. finished. ItIt by now stands stands as as aa memorial memorial to to the the aboliabolinow tion of ofslavery slaveryinin 1888. 1888. The The church church isis tion daily from from 88 am am to to noon noon and and 22 to to open daily open 6 pm. 6pm. lgreja Nossa Nossa Senhora Senhora do do Carmo Carmo Igreja Aleijadinhohad hadaalot lotto todo do with with the the Aleijadinho decoradecoration of of tion

1owns

Thwn§

Goll

ITml

built

Hu]lI

t h i s this church on on church Rua Rua

de de

Carmo. Carmo.

His His touch touch is everyis everywhere, eswhere, es-

in peciallyin pecially

the faces faces the ofthe statofthestatues ues of of sao S~o Simao Sim~o and and Sao Sao Joao Jo~o da da

Matriz de Nossa Senhora de de Concei€ Concei~~o Cruz. The Portuguese Portuguese Jesuits, Jesuits, cultural cultural am ambassadors of Cruz. The the far-flung Portuguese Empire, far-flung Portuguese Empire, were the wer among the The finest finest goods from India Indiaand and EnEngoodsfrom The 00 first Westerners Westerners to to make make contact contact with with the orient. As first gland were made available to Curo Preto. Teatro Teatro result, the de Nossa Nossa Senhora Senhora de de Concei~~o aa result> the Matriz Matriz de glandweremadeavailabletoouropreto. Imperial Imperial (1720) is is aa fascinating blend of of Orienta Oriental arts rts and (1720) fascinating blend The gold of baroque baroque The gold bought bought the the services services of Portuguese baroque-overwhelming Sabara Sabar~ Portuguese baroque-overwhelmin with its gold has an leaf and and red red Chinese Chinese scrolls scrolls. has an elelleaf artisans, who who turned turned the the city city into artisans, into an an old egant old Restationed in in Brazil, the Jesuits brought the Restationed Oriental arts arts tQ to Sabar~, as is is evident evident in in the the pagc o p e r a pagodas Opera architectural gem. of the the gem. At architectural At the the height height of Oriental Sabari, as house, on some some of of the the church church door door panels panels by by the the sanctu sanctuary. house, 00 on gold boom boom there there were were 110,000 110,000 people Teatro There are are several several other other interesting interesting little little details details in in th the gold people in in There Imperial church. Floorboards cover the graves of early church church. Floorboards cover the graves of early chure town versus 50,000 in New York. town versus 50,000 in New York, (1770). members, the the gold gold and and silver members, silver nuggets nuggets nailed nailed on on these thes (1770). The cryscrystablets indicating indicating whether whether the the deceased deceased was was Itch rich or tablets tal lamps lamps poor. Poor. and threetiers tiersof ofseats seatsin in carved carvedwood wood and and bamboo bamboo cane cane are are On the the ceiling ceiling oof the is the patro patron saint of andthree aint of he church is On to the the wealth of of days gone by. On testimony to confessors, John of 14th-century 14th-century CzechosloOn Rua Rua Dom Don Pedro slo- testimony confessors, John Nepomuceno Nep uceno of vakia, who who is is shown shown holding his tongue. II, it's holding his King Wenceslau it's open open Tuesday Tuesday to to Sunday Sunday from from 88 am am to to 55 pm. pin, vakia, tongue. King Wenceslau 11. ordered St St Nepomu€eno's Nepomuceno's tongue tongue cut cut out out because the saint ordered refused to to reveal reveal whether whether or or not not the the Mold Moldavian queen was Museu do Ouro ueen was refused Housed in in an an old faithful. Nepomuceno died died of came very Housed old gold gold foundry foundry (1730), ( 1730),the thegold goldmuseum, museum, faithful. of his his wound, worn but became on Rua da Intend~ncia, contains art and artifacts of Sabar's posthumously in Czechoslovakian cult circles and, popular onRuadalntendencia,containsartandartifactsofsabara's popular posthumously in Czechoslovakian cult circles and, glory years, in Minas Minas Gerais inexplicably, in inexplicably, Gerais during during the the gold gold era. era. Note Note the the glory years, mostly mostly related related to to the the gold-mining gold-mining industry. industry. The The 34

BRAZZIL BRAZZIL --JUNE JUNE 2001 2001

museum is is open Tuesday to to Sunday from 88 am am to to 55 pin. pm. Sunday from open Tuesday museum

History History

CONGONHAS CONGONHAS Little is of Congonhas' Congonhas' colonial colonial past past except except the the Little is left of extraordinary PropAerr of Aleijadinho Aleijadinho at at the the Basilica Basilicado do Prophets of extraordinary Born Jesus Jesus de de Matosinhos. Matosinhos. While the the town town isis commoncommonBorn these dramatic dramatic statues statues are are exceptional. They are place, these exceptional. They place, are and Brazil's Brazil'smost mostfamed famedwork work Aleijadinho'smasterpiece masterpieceand Aleijadinho's of art. art. It's It'sworth worth taking the trouble trouble to to get to Congonhas taking the get to of to see see them. them. just to just Set in in aa broad broadvalley; valley; Congonhas 72 km south of Congonhas isis 72 Set Belo Horizonte, Horizonte, three three kin km off offBR-`040. BR-040. The grew up Belo The city city grew with the the search search for for gold in the the nearby nearby Rio Rio MaTanhao, Maranh~o, and gold in with the economy dominated by by iron iron mining in the economy today today isis dominated the surrounding countryside. countryside. surrounding

The 12 12 Propliets Prophets The an old man, man, sick and crippled, Aleijadinho Already an Already sick and sculpted the the Prop*€fs' 1800 to 1805. 1805. Symmetrica Symmetrically Prophets from 1800 sculpted placed in front of the Basilica do Born Jesus de Matos in hos, placedinfrontoftheBasilicadoBomJesusdeMatosinhos each of of the the prophets from the the Old Old Testament Testament was was carve carved prophets from each out of one one or two two blocks blocks of soapstone. Each carries a out of soapstone, six of them are in in Latin. Latin. message: sex message: them are aregood, good, six sixbad, bad,and andall are Much has been been written Much written about about these thesesculptures-their sculptures-their dynamic quality, the the sense of of movement (many talk of the dynamic Hindu dance dance or a ballet), how appearance they give of a Hindu appearance they complement complement each each other other and and how how their their arrangement arrangementin in they front of ofthe the church church prevents them from from being seen in in prevents them beingse`en front isolation. The The poet Carlos Drummond Drummond de de Andrade Andrade wrote wrote poet Carlos isolation. that the the dramatic dramatic faces faces and and gestures are 'magnificent, gestures are that terrible, grave grave and tender' and commented terrible, commented on a 'the way the statues, of of human human size appear to be larger than statues, th life as they look down upon the viewer with the sky sky behind them'. them'. look Before working working on carved Before on the the Prophets, Prop*ets, Aleijadinho carve or supervised his assistants assistantsinincarving carvingthe thewooden woodenstatL]e statues supervised his or which were placed in the six six little little chapels that represen chapels that represent which the Passion Passion of of Christ: The The Last the Last Supper, Supper, Calvary, Calvary,ImprisImprisonment, Flagellation Flagellation and and Cor{ Coronation, Carrying of the onment, Cross and and the the Crucifixion. Crucifixion. Cross Some of the figures, Some figures, such such as a the Roman soldiers are crude and and clearly done by assistants, while others are very cmde clearly done by as very finely chiseled. The statues were restored in 1957 by the painter Edson Mota and the gardens were designed by Burle Marx.

Festivals Held from 7 to 14 September, the Jubileu do Senhor Born Jesus do Matosinhos is one of the great religious festivals in Minas Gerais. Each year, approximately 600,000 pilgrims arrive at the church to make promises and do penance, receive blessings and give and receive alms, The Holy Week processions in Congonhas are also famous, especially the dramatizations on Good Friday. For Places to Stay & Eat read the book

OUROPRETO Ouro Preto is in the remote Serra do Espinha~o range, and the odd-shaped peak of Itacolomy (1752 meters), 18 km out of town, is the first clue that you're approaching Ouro Preto. The first bandeirantes to penetrate the region used it as a reference point. BRAZZIL --JUNE JUNE 2001 2001 BRAZZIL

to the the Jesuit Jesuit Antonil, Antonil, aa mulatto servant in the According to According Antonio Rodrigues Arz~o expedition went to to the the rivulet rivulet Rodrigues Arzao expedition went Ant6nio to quench his thirst thirst and and pocketed few grains grains of ofan an Tripui to quench his pocketed aa few Tripui odd black black metal metal he he found found in in the the stream stream bed. bed. The The little little odd were reported to the governor of Rio and out nuggets were nuggets and turned tuned out to be gold. The exact location of the the river was was forgotten forgotten he exact only the the strange of the the expedition; only strange shape ape Of during the long ng expedition; were remembered. remembered. peaks of Itacolomy olomy were On 24 June 1698, Antonio ediscovered On Ant6nio Dias de Oliveira rediscovered the area, convinced convinced he he had had found found the thepromised El Dorado. Dorado. promisedEI The mines were the the largest largest deposits ofgold gold in in the the western western deposits of a were and the the news news and and gold gold fever fever spread hemisphere, phere, and spread fast. fast. Stories Stories tellI of ofmen men who acquf fabulous wealth wealthfrom fromone oneday dayto to the the acquired red fabulous next, and others others who died died of hunger with their their pockets full pockets full xt, and hu er with of gold. ao V Back in Portugal, Portugal, King KingDO Dom Jo~o V was was quick quick to to claim claim ask in a royal fifth in in tax tax and a chain of posts was established established to to yal fifth n theory, ensure that the the crown was getting getting its its cut. In the theory, all the n was nsure that 'ndencias to was brought theseca£4!s casas de intend~ncias to be be gold was brought toto these gold into bars, bars, and and the the royal weighed and royal fifth set aside. weighed and turned tuned into Tax shii.hers shirkers were were cast cast into into dungeons or exiled exiled toto Africa. Africa. dungeons or Tax One common common technique used to avoid avoid the the tax tax was was to to hide hide One in hollow hollow images of the the saints. saints. Bitter Bitter over over the the gold powder in images of old powder tax, the the P¢#JJ`sJa Paulista miners against the the miners rebelled rebelled unsuccessfully against Two years later, in 1711, 1711, Vila Portuguese. uguese. Two Vila Rica Rica de de Ouro Quro Preto was foun founded. present town's predecessor, predecessor, was reto the present The finest finest goods from India India and and Englan goods from England were made The Ought the available to the the simple mining town. The The gold bought the mining tour. vailable to services of bar who tuned turned tthe city into an baroque artisans, who ervices of ight of architectural gem. gem. At tthe height ofthe the gold gold boom boom in in the the architectural mid-18th century, 110,000people in Ouro Ouro Preto Preto century, there people in mid-18th there were Ilo,000 (the vast vast majority majority .of of whom whom were were slaves) versus 50,000 in ves) versus 50,000 in (the e royal New York York and and about about 20,000 20,000 in de Jane Janeiro. The royal New in Rio de fifth, estimated estimated at 100 100 tons in the the 18th century, fifth, tons of of gold in through the the hands hands Qf of the court, quickly passed Portuguese court, passed through quickly the Portuguese built up Lisbon and and then financed Industrial up Lisbon ced the British Industrial built Revolution. The greed of the Portuguese led to sedition sedition on on uguese led aRica(17 the part of the inhabitants of Vila Rica (1720). As the boom to pay tapered off, the miners found it increasingly difficult pay ficult to ever larger gold taxes. In 1789, poets Claudio da Costa and Tom~s Antonio Gonzaga, Joaquim Jos~ da Silva Xavier (nicknamed Tiradentes, meaning tooth-puller after his dentistry skills) and others whose heads were full of the French revolutionary philosophies hatched the Inconfid~ncia Mineira. This attempt to overthrow the Portuguese was crushed in its early stages by agents of the crown. Gonzaga was exiled to Mozambique, and Costa did time in prison. Tiradentes, the only man not to deny his role in the conspiracy, was abandoned by his friends, jailed for three years without defense, then drawn and quartered. By decree of Emperor Dom Pedro I, Vila Rica, capital of Minas Gerais since 1721, became the Imperial City ofOuro Preto. In 1897, the state capital was shifted from Ouro Preto to Belo Horizonte. This was the decisive move that preserved Ouro Preto' s colonial flavor The former capital assumes the symbolic role of state capital once a year, on 24 June. The 35

city was declared Otherguides guidesinclude includeJo~o JoaoBosco, Bosco,who whospeaks speaksEnglish Englishand and 1933, Other monument inin 1933, national monument Brazilian national declared aa Brazilian and in 1981 1981 UNESCO UNESCO proclaimed proclaimed Ouro OuroPreto Pretoa aWorld World Italian, Italian, Herculiano, who speaks goodEnglish, Affonso, English, andandAffonso, good speaks who Herculiano, Site. Heritagesite. Cultural Heritage Cultural speaks spanish. Beware guides: there there are unofficial guides: ofofunofficjal Beware whowho speaks Spanish. some nasty characters hanging around. Climate tourist office also organizestreks treksinto intothe thesurroundsurroundClimate organizes also office tourist TheThe Thecity The cost cost isis and temperaturesvary sea level,andtemperatures is one km abovesealevel, The city isonekmabove vary ing rides to Itacolomy. horseback rides and horseback hills and ltacolomy. The ing hills 2° C to 28° from 20 28° C. Winters are pretty Jo~o or around $40 for the day. Speak to Joao cold. year all year foggy all and foggy rainy and be rainy can be cold. It can Reinaldo a day before you you go, go, to to give give round, but you can can expect expect daily daily showers showers enough time to get the horses ready. them enough hllijatlimho in December and January. The best time Sao Franchurch of Sao The to visit Minas is between March and Minas is Money August. cmbio is at Rua Brasilcdmb7.a do Brasil The Banco Banco do de Assis, cisco de Assis, the Carmo Carmo S~o Jos~ Sao Jos6 195, 195, and and most mostofofthe thejewelry jewelry church fa~ade, faeade, the Prophets Prapfeefs Orientation stores in town will change cash dollars. do Congonhas of congonhas do Campos and Campos Prapa Tiradentes, a few few blocks blocks down down Praga Tiradentes, innumerable relics in in Mariana, Mariana, from the themain mainroad, road, is is rodoviria ononthe the rodovf.dri.c7 Telephone Post & Te]eplion€ Sabar~, Tiradentes Sabara, Tiradentes and and S~o Sao the town center. Ouro Preto is divided The post office The office is is in in Rua Rua Direita, Direita, into two parishes. If in Pra9a stand in you stand If you Pra~a The fe/a/aHjca telefonica close to Praga Tiradentes. The Joao Jo~o del Rei were all carved Tiradentes Tiradentes facing the Museu da is on the steep Rua calls is long-distance calls for long-distance by Aleijadinho (Antonio FranbyAleijadinho(Ant6nioFranlnconfidencia, ofpilar to the the Pilar is to Inconfid~ncia, the parish of as left the on Flores, das Flores, on as you you walk walk down down cisco Lisboa). Brazil's cisco Brazil's right, Ant6nio Dias Dias to to the the right, the parish parish of Antonio from the the pra~a pra€a the use of Michelangelo lost the left. the age hands and legs his hands legs at the All of Ouro have at streets have Preto's streets Ouro Preto's See to See Things to least two names: the official one and the one and Apart from from Niemeyer's Niemeyer's Grande Grande Howith a hammer of 30 but, with of hammer and and one used by the locals because the other other two and Preto Ouro tel te] Ouro Pt.eto and two other modem chisel strapped to his his arms, arms, he he one is too much Rua of a mouthful. Rua much of monstrosities, no 20th-century 20th-century buildings buildings from in Brazil from advanced art in CondeBobadela,thestreetleadingoffto Conde Bobadela, the street leading off to colonial beautiful colonial stunningly beautiful defile this stunningly of the baroque to the excesses of the right from Praga Tiradentes Tiradentes as you're you're city. Spend a day walking on the cobble-

lleijatinio

facing the Museu Museu da da Inconfid~ncia, lnconfidencia, is is commonly known as Rua Direita. SimiSimilarly, larly, Rua Conselheiro Quintiliano isis

known and Rua Rua Senador senador known as Rua das Lajes and Rocha Lagoa as Rua add To add Flores. To das Flores. Rua das to are rarely rarely to the confusion, the names are

posted. posted.

the town is very hilly hilly and the The town cobblestone streets rain-slicked, cobblestone streets are are exexwalkcomfortable walkBring comfortable steep. Bring tremely steep. tremely tread. good tread. ing shoes with good If in one day only one spend only If you plan to spend day in Ouro it' snot notaaMonday, Monday, Ouro Preto, make sure it's as churches and churches museums and the museums all the almost all as almost are then. closed then. are closed Information Information

Touristofrice Tourist Office

a finer, more more graceful graceful rococo. rococo.

Mineiros have The A/j.#ej.ros The' have reason reason to he proud of Aleijadinho be proud Aleijadinho-he figure of international is a figure the history in the prominence in prominence history of of have Aleijadinho's angels angels have art. Aleijadinho's his stylistic wavy signature: wavy stylistic signature: wide-open eyes hair, wide-open eyesand andbig, big, cheeks. round cheeks. Portuguese The son of aa Portuguese architect and a black black slave, slave, 1730 from 1730 lived from Aleijadinho lived Aleijadinho in the to 1814 1814 and and was was buried buried,in the Matriz da Senhora da Nossa Senhora Matriz Nossa Conceicao, within 50 50 paces paces of of Concei~~o, within defederal desite. By birth site. By federal his birth Patron cree he was declared Patron cree For 1973. For artsinin 1973. Brazilian arts of Brazilian of Costa Manuel da Costa many years Manuel Ataide, from' nearby nearbyMariana, Mariana, with collaborated with successfully collaborated successfully on many Aleijadinho Aleijadinho on would churches. Aleijadinho Aleijadinho would churches. few and aa few exterior and the exterior sculpt the sculpt interior pieces pieces and interior and Ataide, Ataide, the interior panwould paint panpaint the would With his e Is. With els. his secretlysecretlyconcocted vegetable dyes, concocted dyes, of much of out much fleshed out Ataide fleshed Ataide work. Aleijadinho's work. Aleijadinho's

Thetouristoffice,atpraqaTiradentes The tourist office, at Praga Tiradentes 41, pin during during the the from 88 am to 66 pm is open from 41, is weekfrom 88 am and from week and week am to 55 pm pin on weekends. English is ends. is spoken, spoken, and and staff staff give give out leaflet which indicates the opening out a leaflet times they churches; they the museums and churches; ofthe times of also copies of maps ($2) and copies sell good also sell good maps Guia dede Ouro the G%j.ar the O#ro Preto, PreJo, by by Manuel Manuel 10). Passeio in Portuguese Bandeira, in ($ 10). Portuguese ($ Bandeira, P¢sSejo de Machado de Lucia Machado by Lucia Preto by Ouro Prelo ¢a Owro Almeida, has sections Almeida, sections in in English, English,French French the $22. By costs $22. and costs and Porfuguese By the Portuguese and and same author sa,me author is .lsthe theMinas MinosGerais GeraisRoteiro Roteiro Turistico das Cidades Cultural das Turistico Cultural HI.jrft5rj.caf(Embratur-AGGS).I'dliketo Hist~ricas (Embratur-AGGS). I'd like to use to use permission to for permission Embratur for thank Embratur thank this myths the myths discussing the when discussing material when this material Preto. Ouro Preto. ofOuro and legends legends of and of lot of in aa lot to pack want to If you pack in If you want sightseeing ($30 for for sightseeing with little effort, hire an official guide ($30 is aa great Cassio is office. Cdssio tourist office. the tourist at the guide great guide tour) at full-day tour) aa full-day baroque. knows his baroque. really knows He really excellent English. and speaks English. He speaks excellent and 36 36

stone roads around the dark rock walls of its carved fountains the village admiring its statues and crumbling orange-tiled orange-tiled roofs. of bare at a skyline of mist at the mist through the Gaze through green hills, church steeples and gray skies. greenhills,churchsteeplesandgrayskies. itinerary following sightseeing itinerary The following was made keeping the quirky visiting crowded is crowded schedule is The schedule mind. The in mind. hours in for one day, day, but but if ifyou youhustle hustleit's it'spossible possible in the Ant6nio sights in of the sights most of see most to see morning, lunch the morning, in the Dias Parish in lunch in in or or

and spend Tiradentes, and about Pra~a spend the about Prafa Tiradentes, the and Parish and Pilar Parish visiting the afternoon visiting afternoon the Pilar and the Museum and Mineral Museum the Mineral the mind in mind Bear in Museum. Bear Inconfid~ncia Museum. lnconfidencia see the to see days to least two days at least need at that you need that town properly, and more if you you intend intend to to of the nearby historical towns. visit some of visit $1.25 around $1.25 charge around churches charge Most churches Most admission, so person admission, per person per so travelers travelers on on aa and to pick have to budget might pick and might have tight budget

choose. Our favorites are, in rough order: Igreja de S~o Francisco de Assis (if you ;g:e°jsae£:ra:aE::!iecs±sacr:'j:rA°sus¥sh(?;S:rj

one, make visit one, only visit only make sure sure it's it's this this one); one); Pretos, dos Pretos. Efig~nia dos Santa Efigenia de Santa Igreja de Igreja and Pilar and do Pilar Nossa Senhora do de Nossa Matriz d€ Matriz Capela do Padre Faria. Cape]a

Pra~a from Prapa am from 7.30 am about 7.30 at about Start at Start Tiradentes and walk along Rua das Lajes, TiradentesandwalkalongRuadasLajes, the road to Mariana, for a panoramic the panoramic town. oftown. view of view If, after If, after all all this, this, you're you're enthusiastic enthusiastic sell you more, the tourist office can for more, for can sell you to some fine guidebooks-there's plenty to some guidebooks-there' s plenty can see. Tho*se Those after see. aftersomething something strenuous strenuous can takes hike to the Itacolomy; it takes hike the peak peak of ltacolomy; Pra~a from Prapa km from 18 kin the 18 walk the to walk hours to three hours three

easiTiradentes. Parque (the easiItacolomy(the Tiradentes. Parque ltacolomy est est approach approachisisfrom fromMariana) Mariana)isisa apleasant pleasantexcursion-the excursion-the Park Park has has some some good good walking walkingtrails, trails,waterfalls waterfallsand andorchids, orchids, km away. 12 kin and away. only 12 and the the colonial colonial town town of of Mariana Marian isis only 2001 JUNE 2001 BRAZZIL --JUNE BRAZZIL

half-hour. every half-hour. leave every Buses leave Capela do do Padre Faria Work your way downhill off your way the road to this chapel. Padre Faria was one of of the the original original bandeirantes, and bcr#de!.ra#/es, andthe thechapel chapel(built (built is Ouro 1704) is and 1704) 1701 and between 1701 between Preto's worship. of worship. house of oldest house Preto's oldest The chapel chapel isis set behind a triple branched papal cross cross (1756), (1756), the the three branches branches representing representing the material temporal, spiritual and material richest the richest the Pope. of the powers of powers Pope. It's It's the artand artin terms of gold and chapel of gold chapel in work, unfortunately, due due toto work, but unfortunately, poor documentation, poor documentation, the the artists artists are are rang bell rang church bell The church anonymous. The anonymous.

for was body was his body (when his Tiradentes (when for Tiradentes Rio); later, it rang to Rio); taken to taken rang once once again, for again, for the the inauguration inauguration of of Ouro Preto Brasilia. on angel on the angel that the Note that Brasilia. Note the high the high of the side of the right-hand right-hand side to am to from 88 am open from is open church is The church has butterfly altar has wings. The butterfly wings. altar noon. noon.

vira-saia, which vjra-Scrl+a, whichmeans meansturncoat turncoat or or traitor. traitor. gold caravans century, gold 18th century, the l8th the latter In the In latter part part of of the caravans

Portuguese crown were, the Portuguese for the destined for destined were, robbed robbed on on aa cloak shipments measures to cloak despite measures basis, despite regular basis, regular shipments by by long to take long It didn't routes. It and routes, dates and altering dates altering didn't take to surmise surmise that that de Casa de the Casa working inin the Someone working inside job. an inside was an job. Someone itit was the Fundigao for the and for by and 1749by and1749 1742and between 1742 built between was built church was The church The that suspect that would suspect Who would information Who was leaking leaking information Fundiyllo was slave community. black slave community. Santa Efig~nia, black Efigenia, patron patron saint of the Antonio Francisco Alves, Antonio Francisco Alves, aa pillar pillar of the the community, community, upupwas the church, was gentle church, the Queen Queen of of Nubia, Nubia,and andthe thefeatured featuredsaints, saints, standing. standing citizen, citizen, mild-mannered mild-mannered businessman businessman and and gentle and So Nolo and do Nolo Antonio do Santo Ant6nio banVira-Saia banthe Vira-Saia behind the brains behind the brains in reality was in father, was Santo Sao Benedito, Benedito, are are black. black. The The father, reality the that they these images to these slaves prayed images ,that slaves theywouldn't wouldn't be crushed dits-the prayed to government's the govemment's looted the whichlooted outfitwhich sameoutfit verysame dits-thevery in caravan'ss route After aa caravan. caravans? After mines. the mines. in the gold caravans? gold route was was planned, planned, Alves Alves and would gold and ofgold termsof Preto's poorest Ouro Preto's is Ouro church is The church poorestininterms The Nossa ofNossa image of the image turn the and turn oratory and the oratory to the out to steal out would steal is by Aleijadinho's The altar is artwork. The ofartwork. terms of in terms richest in its richest directhe direcface the to face the sanctuary within the Almas within das Almas Senhora das its Aleijadinho's sanctuary to Senhora Javier do Briton. Many Francisco Javier master, Francisco traffic. the gold ofthe tion of master, Many of of the interior tion gold traffic. find can find you can (see ififyou Souza (see de Souza Rabelo de Manuel Rabelo are by by Manuel criminal. thecriminal. ofthe the identity for the was posted reward was A reward identity of posted for panels are A panels and the exterior image of Finally Robinson Crusoe), and ofRobinson the painting Alves' own of Alves' member of the Finally aa member painting of own band, band, Luis Luis Gibut, Gibut, turned turned The him himself. The Aleijadinho himself. by Aleijadinho Ros~rio isis by do Rosario Senhora do Nossa Senhora Nossa with aa love with in love fell in whofell Jesuitwho French Jesuit was aaFrench Gibut was in. Gibut him in. Chico-Rei's beautiful financed by was finance.d church was abandoned the woman, abandoned beautiful woman, church by gold gold extracted extracted from from Chico-Rei's the order, order, and and became became aa church highway Encardideira. Slaves mine, Encardideira. gold mine, highway bandit and, eventually the the turncoat's turncoat's turncoat. gold Slaves contributed contributed to to the the church fonts. This baptismal fonts. in baptismal hairin their gold-flaked cofferby gold-flaked hair washing their by washing teaching for teaching responsible for was responsible Gibut was Luis Gibut same Luis This same coffer fingernails Aleijadinho underfingerl]ails gold powder to smuggle Others managed powderunder smuggle gold managed to artist the artist which the phrases which Latin phrases misspelled Latin the misspelled Others Aleijadinho the to incorporated am to from 88 am openfrom churchisisopen The church cavities. The tooth cavities. inside tooth and inside and works. hisworks. ofhis many of into many incorporated into into dragged off were dragged daughters were his daughters and his wife and his wife Alves, his noon. noon. Alves, off into Duruta, aa good Sra Duruta, fate. Sra their fate. meet their to meet the jungle jungle to the good neighbor, neighbor, for late for too late was too it was but it Alves, but saved Alves, and saved rescue and the rescue to the came to Vira-Saia OratorioVira-Saia Oratorio came 18 century, the 18th ofthe the beginning At the beginning of arm longarm thelong ofthe aheadof stepahead onestep wasone Alveswas kids.Alves and kids. wifeand hiswife At century, there there was was a rash rash of of his the of the law, but he didn't get off soot free. Shortly afterfromthe springfrom wouldspring Phantomswould city. Phantoms thecity. incidentsininthe ghostincidents ghost through town, ;fa:£:,]haew;absu;,::gde{g%'ytagne;t8:::::tair::.vsj::.rs'ay}a:fi+ehr: wing through and wing church and Efig~nia church Santa Efigenia near Santa walls near wards, he was plugged by another unnamed Vira-Saia. The walls would criminal gang continued to do successful robberies without folkwould villagefolk simple village The simple the towns-people. towns-people. The spooking spooking the its first chief. Luis Gibut, ex-Jesuit, traitor and poor speller, powder, which the ;,rsi%ig,a;hgiaeTLc:in§tiniieud,,t:xd.:essuuci:,e,srsa::;::::epr;eos.*:?,oeT: gold powder, of gold their bags and drop faint and bags of drop their faint people isis probably terrorized people The terrorized snatch. The would snatch. bandit-like ghosts ghosts would purgatory. timeininpurgatory. doingtime still doing probably still bandit-like and the oratories, and build oratories, to build for permission the bishop asked the permission to bishop for asked the bay, the spiritsatatbay2 evilspirits keepevil Designed totokeep Dirceu doDir€eu Largodo complied. Designed bishop complied. bishop Largo Igreja the Igreja to the get to beforeyou is next,just Dirceu is do Dirceu saints) ofsaints) imagesof containingimages nichescontaining oratories(glass-encased you get next,justbefore Largo do (glass-encasedniches oratories Largo oratories Matriz many oratories Not many corners. Not street comers. on many built on were built many street This Dias.This AntonioDias. deAnt6nio Conceig~ode daConceieao Senhorada NossaSenhora MatrizNossa were called used (also called Paulistas (also dos Paulistas Rua dos on Rua one on there's one but there's remain but Antonio TomasAnt6nio poetTomas thepoet ofthe hang-outof be aapopular to be used to popularhang-out remain Dias; GQnzaga AntonioI)ias; Rua Ant6nio onRua anotheron and another Vasconcelos) and Bernardo Vasconcelos) figures Marilia. It muse, Marilia. and muse, his girlfriend and his girlfriendand Gonzaga and Bernardo It figures Marilia de Nowa- prominently Vira-Saia.NowaOrat~rioVira-Saia. the Orat6rio all isis the ofall oneof famousone mostfamous themost the prominently inin A/c[rz'/j¢ de Dirceu, Djrcew, the the most most celebrated celebrated evil poem offevil scareoff usedtotoscare areused oratoriesare fewremaining thesefew remainingoratories language. Portugueselanguage. thePortuguese inthe daysthese days poem in Igreja Pretos dos Pretos Efig~nia dos Santa Efigenia de Santa Igreja de towards back towards Faria back Padre Faria do Padre Ladeira do the Ladeira Descending the Descending town,you'llcometothelgrejadesantaEfig6niadospretos. town, you'll come to the Igreja de Santa Efig~nia dos Pretos.

Week. HolyWeek. duringHoly spirits spiritsduring the ofthe bottom of the bottom at the is at Vira-Saia is small oratory of Vira-Saia The small Antonio de Ant6nio Concei~~o de da Concei¢ao Senhora da Nossa Senhora Matriz Nossa The Matriz on the Dies Vira-Saia), on as Vira-Sala), known as (also known SantaEfigenia deSanta Ladeirade Efig~nia (also Around & Around Dias & Ladeira two hastwo 'Vira-saia'has Branco. `Vira-saia' Ouro Branco. do Ouro Bar~odo RuaBarao withRua cornerwith Dias parish, Matriz Nossa Ant~nio Dias the Ant6nio ofthe cathedral of Thecathedral comer The Portuguese the from either it originates by designedby wasdesigned Dias was Antonio de Concei~~o da Senhora meanings: possible Senhora da Conceigao de Ant6nio Dias possible meanings: it either originates from the Portuguese Francisco Lisboa, Manuel Francisco father, Manuel of Aleijadinho's translation of direct translation the direct is the or is sair (depart) andsaz.r virar(turn) Aleijadinho'sfather, (depart) or (turn)and vjrqr Lisboa, and and built built BRAZZIL 2001 - JUNE2cO1 BRAZZIL-JUNE

The Igreja NossaSenhora Senhorado do Carmo Carmo was wasaagroup group lgreja Nossa The effortby the most most important artistsof ofthe thearea. area. Begun importantartists Begun by the effort in 1766 1766 and and completed in 1772, 1772, the church features a in fa~ade by Aleijadinho. It's It'sopen openfrom from88toto 11.30 11.30am am by Aleijadinho. fa€ade and I1 to to 5.30 pin. pm. and

Casa de de Tiradentes Tiradentes Cas8 The home home of of Joaquim Joaquim Jos6 Jos~ da da Silva Silva Xavier Xavier The nearby. After After his his failed failed rebellion rebellion (Tiradentes) isis nearby. (Tiradentes) against the Portuguese, and his against his execution execution in in Rio, Rio, Tiradentes's head head was was paraded paraded around around town. town. His His Tiradentes's house was was demolished, demolished, and and its its grounds grounds were salted so house that nothing nothing would would grow grow there. there. that

Escola de de Minas Minas Escola The Escola Escola de de Minas in the old governor's palace The govemor's palace in Prapa Pra~a Tiradentes Tiradentes has has aa very very fine fine museum museum of ofminerminerin It's from noon noonto to55 pin Monday to to Friday. Friday. alogy. It' open from pm Monday alogy. s open

Ouro Preto

between the years 1727 and 1770. Note the painting of the eagle: its head points downwards, symbolizing the domi::gTe?ei?stE:gdeapr:ii7s2Z.a::i:?do;,:;Lei:;i2iani;t,ifeg::ihi: nation of ofthe the Moors Moors by by the the Christians. Christians. Aleijadinho Aleijadinho isis nation buried by the altar altar of ofBoa BoaMorte. Morte. The Thecathedral cathedral isis open by the open buried from 88 to to 11.30 11.30 am amand and II to to55 pin. pm. from The Museu Museu do do Aleijadinho the'church church and and has has Aleijadinho adjoins adjoinsthe The the same same hours. Nearby the Nearby isis Encardideira, Encardideira, the the abandoned abandoned mine ofchico of ChicoRei Rei(ask (askaround around for for directions). directions). It's It's dangerdangermine ous, full full of of crumbling crumbling secret secret passageways passageways and rumored to ous, to be haunted. haunted. be

Casa de deTomf Tomas Ant~nio Gonzaga Gonzaga Casa s Ant@nio Rua do do Ouvidor Ouvidor 99 is is the address of Tomas Tom~s Ant6nio Antonio Rua house, now now the the seat seat of of the the municipal governGonzaga's house, municipal governGonzaga's ment. Back Back in in 1789, ment. 1789, the the gold gold tax tax and and antimonarchist antimonarchist sentimentin in Minas Minas were were rising This isis where where rising concurrently. concurrently.This sentiment his poet friendClaudio Claudioda daCosta Costa(author Vila Gonzaga, his poetfriend (authorofofyl7c} Gonzaga, Rica), Tiradentes R;.ccz), Tiradentesand andothers othersconspired conspired unsuccessfully unsuccessfully to to

overthrow the the Portuguese The sad sad little little event event Portuguese monarchy. monarchy. The overthrow came to be be known as as the the lnconfidencia Inconfid~ncia Mineir Mineira. came

Casa dos dos Contos Contos Casa The Casa Casa dos dos Contos Contos (Counting (Counting House) House) isis now now aa public public The library and art gallery. Claudio da Costa Costa was was imprisoned imprisoned library here after after participating participatingininthe thelnconfidencia Inconfid~nciaMineira. Mineira.ItIt isis here open from from 12.30 12.30 to to 55 pin. pm. Next door isis the the old old Ponto Ponto do do open Next door Leil~o, where where slaves were taken to be tortured. Leilao, tortured.

Matriz d€ de Nossa Nossa Senhora do do Pilar Pilar Matriz The Matriz Matriz de de Nossa Nossa senhQra Senhora do do pilar Pilar is is the second-most second-most The opulent church church in in Brazil Brazil (after (after Salvador's Salvador's ment ment scenes scenes by by opulent Pedro Gomes Gomes Chaes, Pedro Chaes, and and the the hair hair on on Jesus Jesus (the (the real real stuff, stuff, donated by by aa penitent penitent worshipper). worshipper). donated Legend has has itit that the Pilar and and Ant6nio Antonio Dias Dias parishes parishes Legend vied for for the the image image of ofNossa Nossa Senhora Senhora dos dos Passos. Passos. In In order orderto to vied settle the the argument, the the image was loaded onto a horse settle horse standing in in prapa pra~a Tiradentes Tiradentes and and rockets rockets were were fired fired to to scare scare standing the horse; horse; the the idea idea was was that that the the image would belong to the the image would belong to the to which which the the horse horse bolted. bolted. Since Sincethe the horse horse knew knew only only parish to parish one One

path, it galloped straight to the Matriz do Pilar. The church is open from noon to 5 pm. rgftihs'j;e8na¥r°opfdnstor:!tgoht5tp°mt.heMatrizdopilar.The

Teatro Municipal Municipal Teatro de Sao S~o Francisco Francisco de de Assis Assis Igreja de Igreja Built in in 1769 1769 by Built by Jo~o Joao de de Souza Souza Lisboa, Lisboa, the Teatro Across the street street from Gonzaga's houseisis the the lgreja Gonzaga'shouse Igrejade Across de the oldest oldesttheati-e theatre in in Minas Gerais and and perhaps Municipal isis the perhaps S~o Francisco de Assis. Sao Assis. After the the Prophets, Propfoets,ininCongonhas, Congonhas, Municipal all of of Brazil. Brazil. The The theatre theatreisisopen visitorsfrom from1l to to 5.30 5.30 opentotovisitors masterwork, this this is is the the single single most most imporAleijadinho's masterwork, Aleijadinho's impor- all pm. tant of Brazilian colonial art, and it was lovingly Pin. piece tant piece of Brazilian colonial art, lovingly in 1992. restored in 1992. The The entire entire exterior, exterior, aa radical radical departure departure from the military military baroque was carved by Aleijadinho baroque style, style, was from Aleij adinho alone, from from the the soapstone medallion medallion to to the the cannon cannon and the the military military (two-bar) cross. The The interior interior water-spouts and (two-bar) cross. water-spouts by Aleijadinho' painted by Aleijadinho'ss long-term was painted long-t?rm partner, partner, Manuel Manuel da Costa Costa Ataide. Atafde. · da sacristy is said to be be haunted haunted by by the spirit spirit of of an an The sacristy I8th-century woman. 18th-century woman. In Inthe thedead dead of of night, night, her her head head disdis-

Festivals Festivals Ouro Preto's Preto's Semana Semana Santa Santa (Holy (Holy Week) procession, Ouro procession, held on the Thursday Thursday before before Palm Palm Sunday and sporadically Sunday and sporadically held until Easter Easter Sunday, Sunday, is quite a spectacle. The Congado is until is to to Minas what what Candombl€ Candombl~ is is to to Bahia Bahia and and Umbanda Umbanda isis to to Rio: Rio: Minas

the local expression of Afro-Christian syncretism. The major Congado celebrations are for Nossa Senhora do Rosario ;::t°ocna;ax8:ees,%£b°rnat::nAsfi:::€ohrr`ktj;gasg::£eotj£E6TRhoesamrf: 23 to to 25 25 October, October, at (on 23 solves into a skull and she screams, 'I'm dying, call Father (on at the the Capela Capela do do Padre PadreFaria), Faria),for forthe the New Year Year and and for for 13 13 May May (the anniversary of of abolition). abolition). Carlos'. The church and adjoining Aleijadinho museum New %°a]r|:SsjrtT°haes#iic#asnhde::;:?nT:;`£Te#£h:a#:sa:Eemr The Cavalhada held in Amarantina (near Ouro Preto) are open from 8.20 8.20 to to 11.45 11.45 am and I.30 1.30 to to 4.45 4.45 pin. open from pm. are am and during the Festa de S~o Gon~alo, from 17 to 23 September, isn't as grand as the one in Piren6polis, but is impressive fsunr,;;hah::afe:!E£§t:h:Sot:gj#:,:%n3tiij:s,7(:;:2r{3s°§uirp:t:|g§;;r! Pra~a Tiradentes Tiradentes Pra¢a nonetheless. The The Cavalhada Cavalhada is is aa re-enactment re-enactment of of the battles battles Praga Tiradentes is the center of town. It's a good place nonetheless. PragaTiradentesisthecenteroftown.It'sagoodplace between Christians and and Moors Moors in in Iberia. Iberia. to have lunch, catch your your breath breath by bythe thestatue statueofTiradentes, of Tiradentes, between or take in some museums before the churches of of the Pilar Pilar Places to Stay the book. book. For Places Stay and and to Eat, read tlic parish in the afternoon. open parish open in the afternoon. The Museu Museu da Inconfid~ncia, formerly the old The lnconfidencia, formerly old municimunicipal building and jail, is an attractive civic building built Excerpts from Brazil- 1 Travel Survival it between 1784 and 1854. Used as a prison from 1907 until 3:Lb::Ldin798?nfja|i!t5if.auns:graasc;i;:i:ixi:r::i',d;Eg::i!! 3rd edition, by Andrew Draffen, Chris Me Asey, 1937, the museum contains the Tiradentes tomb, docu1937, the museum contains the Tiradentes tomb, docuLeonardo Pinheiro,and Robyn Jones. ments of ments of the the Inconfid~ncia Inconfidencia Mineira, Mineira, torture torture instruments instruments For more information works by by Ataide and Aleijadinho. The The important works and important museum is is open open from from noon noon to to 5.30 5.30 pin. pm. call Loneh Planet: (800) 275-8555. museum

Nossa Senhora do do Carmo lgreja Nossa Igreja 38

Sound

E1cur'sins Fluidly moving from classical to jazz to drum 'n' bass, Andr~ Mehmari stands as a vibrant example of Brazil's artistic eclecticism BRUCE GILMAN

responsibility, but when the reviewer's responsibility, the reviewer's isthe attention is public's attention thepublic's tothe creativity to musical creativity artist's musical an artist's of an fruit of the fruit but when the Bringing the whose exquisite flights musician ry extraordina An one. ajoyful becomes task that Mehmari, Andre as talented as Andre Mehmari, that task becomes a joyful one. An extraordinary musician whose is as talented artist is exquisite flights umentalist;Andre er,andinstr oser,arrang anist,comp emandaspi echnicalgif ndbrilliantt Andre and instrumentalist; arranger, as pianist, constant demand brilliant technical of passion and composer, keep him innconstantd giftstskeephimi ofpassiona in Brazil today. musicians talented most the of one as alike critics and musicians by regarded is old, years old, is regarded by musicians and critics alike as one of the most talented musicians in Brazil today. 24 years Mehmari, at 24 Mehmari, icism, t,theowner ngularartis hmariisasi "Andr6Me aulo,says, ortantdaily rde,animp a new lyricism, owner of ofanewlyr artist, the is a singular Mehmari says, "Andre from Sao Paulo, daily fromSaoP an important Jornal da Tarde, /or#a/d¢ro ehmariindeed ser'smind,M ingacompo gle.Possess humoredan fromawellomanticism etorevisitR himself able to revisit Romanticism from a well-humored angle. Possessing a composer's mind, Mehmari indeed shows himselfabl who whoshows ideas." people's ideas." otherpeople's uponother improvises upon he improvises as he even as composes, even composes, Sinfonica do Orquestra Sinfonica the Orquestra Mantiqueira, the Banda Mantiqueira, by Banda performed by been performed have been ts have ns and do arrangements and arrangemen compositions Mehmari's compositio de Sao Cidade da Cordas de Quarteto the and Sinfonica, Jazz Sinf~nica, and the Quarteto de Cordas da Cidade de Paulo's Jazz SaoPaulo's Orchestra),So StateOrchestra), Paulo State (Sao Paulo Paulo (S~o Sao Paulo So Estado de S~o enius, recociousg ehmariisap says,"Pian deS.Pa%/o auroDias,i Quartet).M auloString is a precocious Andr~ Mehmari "PianististAndreM S. Paulo says, O Estado de Dias, inn0E5/acJo Mauro Paulo genius, String Quartet). (So Paulo Paulo(SaoP popular music as classical training his classical uses his He uses generous imagination and generous to approach training to imagination.. He extraordinary talent of vibrating and approach popular music as an extraordinary making way, creative a rich him, before , have (Gismonti) thethe making way, creative andand a rich in in him, before have (Gismonti), as Luis Egberto great evenEgberto pianists, such andeven Egaand LuisE~a such.as great pianists, hestralsoloistandhashis ursasanorc er."Evenas entoftheoth theenrichm geworkfor soloist and has his as an orchestral Mehmari tours Even as Mehmarito of the other." enrichment work for the one language offonelangua formality formalityo additional accolades. At last him additional t)ring him to bring continue to film continue and film ballet and for ballet scores for his scores ensembles, his classical ensembles, accolades. At last works performed by classical performed by clients Varig, Nestle, his clients among lists and ls commercia televisioncommercials and lists among his 500television over500 forover soundtracksfor writtensoundtracks hadwritten Varig, Nestle, count, Mehmari Mehmari had count, Brasil. Banco and Motors, GeneralMotors, Volkswagen,General Antarctica,Volkswagen, Brasil. dodo Banco and Guarana Antarctica, Peugeot, Guarana Peugeot, lsoattained ilianpopula zzandBraz rainingcolo music has also attained and Brazilian career in jazz Mehmari's'scareerinja all his work,k,Mehmari colorsrsallhiswor classical training hisisclassicalt Althoughh popularrmusichasa Although inatedarranger rammy-nom terJoyce,G er/songwri roeter,sing rRodolfoSt ithproduce hhisworkw itionthroug through his work with producer Rodolfo Stroeter, singer/songwriter Joyce, Grammy-nominated arranger wide widerecogn recognition Moreno. Turty Moreno. percussionist Tutty and percussionist Azevedo, and Nailor "Proveta" Azevedo, virtuoso Nailor and woodwind woodwind virtuoso and was playing with the thatI Iwas concertthat duringaaconcert him met I talent. ing up-and-com great a is Mehmari "Andre playing with the Moreno, "Andre Mehmari is a great up-and-coming talent. I met him during Says, Moreno, Says, cord enthechanc tnotes.Wh fromhisflrs pressedme pianosoloi .Hewasthe came to record me from his first notes. When the chanceecametore and he impressed soloist,st,andheim was the piano Brasileira. He Filarm~nica aBrasileira Filarm6nic reexactlyright. nstinctswe en,andmyi ears-oldth asonly20-y llhim.Hew esitatetoca m,Ididn'th J'4/maalbu album, I didn't hesitate to call him. He was only 20-years-old then, and my instincts were exactly right. For~as d'Alma myFor€"c my music, including popularmusic, Brazilianpopular artistsininBrazilian celebratedartists mostcelebrated themost ofthe someof forsome arrangementsfor written arrangements has written he has time, he Since including that time, Since that clich6s." usual the from free fresh, sounds work his me, To . Nascimento To me, his work sounds fresh, free from the usual clich~s." Milton Nascimento. and Milton Joyce and Joyce age of flve. By twelve, mother with music studying beganstudying Mehmaribegan Janeiro,Mehmari deJaneiro, Riode Niter6i,Rio 1977,ininNiter6i, of five. By twelve, thethe at at hishismother with music in 1977, Born in age Born the Conservatory of at course organ an completed and ns, compositio first his written improvise, to had taught himself to improvise, written his first compositions, and completed an organ course at the Conservatory of he had touted by musical prowesstouted hismusical hadhis andhad interviewedand wasinterviewed hewas teens,he earlyteens, hisearly inhis still in was still he was While he Paulo. While Sao Paulo. Ribeiro Preto, Sao by prowess Ribeirao Preto, magazines. Rev;.de magazines. and Revide Veja and both ye/.cr ntbyforming honehistale ts,Mehmar onalcareer by forming his talent decided to hone Mehmari idecidedto social events, pianist anddorganista career asaspianistan hisprofessi organist at tsocialeven professional Beginning Beginning his closed after a few club the "I)ut Mehmari, says fun," was "It club. onlyjazz Preto's Ribeirao at performing and performing Ribeiro Preto's only jazz club. "It was fun," says Mehmari, "but the club closed after a few trio and a jazz trio ajazz to the city of Sao Paulo moved to Mehmari moved afterward, Mehmari Shorty afterward, city." Shorty small city." such aa small for such weird for too weird was too the city of Sao Paulo months. II guess the music was composition contest. music popular university's the won he year first his in where (USP), University State contest. University (USP), where in his first year he won the university's popular music composition to study at the

Two

later, with an active

and

network already in

Mehmari won the

classical

university's place, arranging performing years is£.j#sa: I;oC,%¥jenh lprjefdo¥inh: :,gar|:gs°:gda j{3ffijnp:eac aect:iyoenp:r first Pr~mio Visa he won the;:enT#:V;:::¥ year,gmy:r:ryh°en The following and piano. for five clarinets his piece nedfi:rfiTv8j with competition music composition j:njtchoamnp :::i?::r#ot:jrt' h

ordacDwit edhimtorec whichallow ularmusicrazilianpop petitioninB pectedcom rtantandres a CD with him to record allowed music-which in Brazilian and respected most important de MPB-the popular competition emostimpo deMPB-th award. the shared he whom with Barros C6lio he shared the award. double bass player C~lio estival,and posdoJord nvitedtotea hmariwasi recorded Canto, wasasrecorded second CD,D,Ca#/a,w and hishissecondC Winter Festival, do Jord~oaoWinterF at the Campos to teachchattheCam was invited 1999, Mehmari In In1999,Me

in his home studio. Mehmari's arrangements and compositions on the CD show a sophistication for musical texture and color that is remarkable in so young a composer. Within this CD's plastic jewel case, there is such a wealth and variety of expression O;'o:nr fii3§n:hugs;i ::e:x:a:thsa::d :i;iic;:ee¥:eep n:ti¥:£Oi:'t:,0 an hour. A£;:e¥|§f;:;¥r;% a little over has been of experience that a lifetime at the end, d¥£e:?:i#::tif one feels,,:yFa::t';:a:c¥ embraced that :£s:t#eoe'%e: simplicity born exposed in:,E:h;:,t;#i'€;: ;Emah:I:sa::¥ BRAZZIL --JUNE 2001 JUNE 2cO1 BRAZZIL

Mehmari I compose both at the piano and at the se-

everytrack. track."Andre "AndreMehmari Mehmariis is sophisticationis isapparent apparentononevery Mehmari-I compose both at the piano and at the seofof sophistication but,ininmy everythingalways always has has to to be be heard myopinion, opinion,everything quencer,but, the most phenomenalyoung talenttotoappear Brazil'smusic music quencer, youngtalent appearononBrazil's heard the most phenomenal firstininthe thecomposer's head.I can I can composer's first head. scene in recent years," says guitar scene in recent years," says guitar oftencompose withoutthe theaid aidofof composewithout virtuosoPau]o PauloBellinati. Bellinati."Besides "Besides often virtuoso anymaterial materialinterface interfacebecause becauseperperany hisamazing technicalfluidity, fluidity,he heisis amazingtechnical his fectpitch allowsme metotohear hearallall pitchallows fect alsoa amature maturepianist, arranger, and and pianist,arranger, also whohas hasa acomplete completegrasp grasp composerwho composer of the contemporary music universe, ofthecontemporarymusicuniverse, from jazz classical.I had I hadthe thepleapleafromjazz toto classical. sureofofplaying playingwith withhim himonly onlyonce, once, sure andI I can can say thatititisisvery veryrare raretoto saythat and

findallallthose thosequalities qualitiestogether togetherinin find sucha ayoung musician." youngmusician." such Mehmarimade madehis hisdebut debutasasa a Mehmari conductorininMay May 2000, 2000, when when his his conductor "Enigmas" forsolo solo double-bass, double-bass, "Enigmas" for winds, and and percussion (commispercussion (commiswinds, sioned the So Paulo State Wind by sioned by the Sao Paulo State Wind waspremiered. Hehas has Symphony)was premiered.He Symphony) recently received a commission from recentlyreceivedacommissionfrom thePorto PortoAlegre AlegreSymphony SymphonyOrchesOrchesthe tra to a work compose celebrating tra to compose a work celebrating thelife life of ofJohann JohannSebastian SebastianBach. Bach. the Andthis thissummer, summer,Mehmari Mehmariwill will bebeAnd gin recording a CD of solo piano

gin recording a CD of solo piano music, which which will will be be produced produced by by music, Egberto Gismonti for his Carmo laEgberto Gismonti for his Carmo label.Truly star,Mehmari Mehmari isis aa Trulyaarising risingstar, bet.

offull a fullscore score innerear. ear. partsofa myinner parts inin my

Sometimes1'11 I'll compose onone oneofof composeon Sometimes the instruments instrumentsthat thatI I play. play. For For the thetwo twocAoros choros on on my my example,the example, Canto CD CD were were composed the composedononthe Cc}#Jo cavaquinho. cavaquinho.

Brazil-Doeselectronic electronicediteditBrazzf./-Does ingoccupy placeinin occupyaasignificant significantplace ing youractual actualcomposing composingprocess? process? your Mehmari Well,I I do do use use Mehmari~Well, Audio software, software, Emagic's Logic Logic Audio Emagic's whichhelps meininsituations situationswhere where helpsme which havetotooverdub overdubparts. Harddisk disk parts.Hard I Jhave andediting flexible recordingand editingisissosoflexible recording thatI I see see no no other other way way of ofdoing doing that whatI I do. do. Trying Trying toto achieve achievethe the what same results results on on aa DAT DAT machine, machine, same forexample, example, would would just be insaninsanjust be for ity. I've I'veused used Logic Logic Audio Audio since since ity. 1995, and and II approach it, not as as an approach it, 1995,

instrument,but butas asaasheet sheet of ofblank blank instrument, young man with style and intensity who can help guide Brazilian staff staff paper. very different different sort sort ofofpaper that suits suits my my paper. AA very paper that young man with style and intensity who can help guide Brazilian musicthrough throughthe thedark darkand andcrooked crookedpassages musicalmediocmedioc- personal ofcomposition. composition. passagesofofmusical personal style style of music rityand andthe thecurrent current"funk" "funk"delirium deliriumthat thatseems seemstotoincrease increaseeach each rity listeners that thatbanalities banalities have have meaning. day, persuading persuading listeners meaning. II spoke spoke Brazil-Haveyou you been been working working more more lately lately as as an an ararB/azzf./-Have day, with Mehmari about his and the Visa or ranger performer? background, composition, ranger or performer? with Mehmari about his background, composition, and the Visa MPB. Mehmari-Ithink thinkit'sit's wellbalanced. balanced.Sometimes Sometimes more more Mehmari-I well MPB. arrangements, II think. think. arrangements, Brazzi!Andr~, can can you you tell tell me me aa little little about about your your parparBrazzi./-Andr6, ents and andthe theroots rootsofofthe the``Mehmari" "Mehmari"family familyname? name? Brazzil-Whenyou haveto towrite write an an arrangement, how youhave arrangement, how Brazzj/-When ents Mehmari My mother is the only musician in the whole do you the task? approach do you approach the task? Mehmari-My mother is the only musician in the whole family, and and she she was was my my first teacher. II grew grew up not Mehmari I'm equally whenI receive I receiveananinvitation invitation up listening happy Mehmari-I'm equally happy when family, first teacher. listening not to Elis and Milton Nascimento but also Bach and only Regina to write for a friend's CD or for an orchestra. I never feel to write for a friend's CD or for an orchestra. I never feel only to Elis Regina and Milton Nascimento but also Bach and Ravel. My My mom mom was was constantly constantly atat the the piano piano playing playing both both obligated obligated oror that that I I must must accept on professional accept aa project project on professional Ravel. Ernesto Nazareth Nazareth and and Chopin, so II grew grew up without making Chopin, so up without making aa grounds grounds because becauseI I love love to to sit sit down down and and put together aa lot lot of of Ernesto put together clear distinction distinction between between classical classical and and popular music. II just popular music. just musical musical ideas ideas and and organize organizethem. them.The Thefirst firstthing thingI I do do isis rereclear called the the music music II liked liked "well-made." "well-made." My My mother mother sings sings and and harmonize harmonizethe thetune. tune. II almost never use use the the original harmonic original harmonic almost never called plays the accordion very well, and although she decided long material. material. Second, Second, IIthink about of form, and then aspects think about aspects of form, and then the the plays the accordion very well, and although she decided long ago not to a professional career in music, she has always orchestration and textural From of view, pursue aspects. my point orchestration and textural aspects. From my point of view, ago not to pursue a professional career in music, she has always encouraged my my musical musical aspirations. aspirations. My My father, father, on on the the other the re-creation re-creation of ofan an arranged so II apply arranging isis the arranged song, song, so apply encouraged other arranging hand, was totally against my decision to become a musician. He compositional techniques like variation and motivic developcompositional techniques like variation and motivic develophand, was totally against my decision to become a musician. He wanted me me to to be be anything but aa musician. musician. Now Now we we are are okay anything but ment to to the the given theme or or to to any any material material in in the the original okay ment given theme original wanted with this, this, and and I've I've come come to to understand,his understand his fear thatI I find find particularly So for for me, me, it it composition that particularly interesting. interesting. So with fear of of this thisdifficult difficult composition and unstable profession. Our family name comes from my becomes an intimate compositional process, except that the becomes an intimate compositional process, except that the and unstable profession. Our family name comes from my Lebanese grandparents. grandparents. II also also have have Italian Italian and and Portuguese theme I'm I'm working with already exists. Portuguese theme working with already exists. Lebanese grandparents from my mother's side, so the many mixtures grandparents fromBrazilian my mother's make this a truly name.side, so the many mixtures Brazzi!-Andr~, you you have have such such aa strong strong classical classical and Brazzi./-Andr6, and make this a truly Brazilian name. jazz background that I'm wondering if traditional samba jazz background that I'm wondering if traditional samba Brazzi!How have have you you managed to balance time de de morro morro is is aa part ofyour musical universe. universe. managed to your time partof yourmusical B/azzl./-How balance your between so many instruments and practicing Mehmarilike to explore and transform traditional composing? manytraditional Mehmari-I like to explore and transform many between practicing so many instruments and composing? Mehmariknow-this I know thismay maysound soundpretentious, but II don't pretentious, but Brazilian genres genres like like cAoro, choro, samba, samba, frevo, /revo, and and maracatu. mcrraca/w. L I Mehmari-I don't Brazilian regularly practice practice any any of of my my instruments, also love love and truly respect them. But But II never them play them and truly respect them. never play regularly instruments, not noteven eventhe thepiano, piano, also first instrument. instrument. I'm lucky that I don't have to spend hours hours traditionally. my first traditionally. II transform the musical musical material material using some using some transform the my I'm lucky that I don't have to spend studying scales and working on things like intonation, phras- form of of my myown ownmusical musical syntax, syntax, or or put put more more simply, simply, my mystyle. style. studying scales and working on things like intonation, phras- fo:rm ing, embouchure, embouchure, and and bowings. ing, bowings. Playing Playing instruments instruments isis just just something that has come easilyfor forme, me,soso II only only pick up my Brazzi!-Do you -social, economic, pick up Br¢zzJ./-Do yousee seeany anybarriers barriers-social, economic,or or something that has come easily my secondary instruments when I'm to record them. J prefer racial-between going racial-betweensamba samba and andBrazilian Brazilian jazz classical jazz oror c]assica] secondary instruments when I'm going to record them. I prefer to use use my my time and composing. That's what what IJ music? composing. That's music? to time improvising improvising and love doing. This has given me into what really gift great insight Mehmari Fortunately,good goodmusic musicisis not not aa social social class Mehmari-Fortunately, class really love doing. This gift has given me great insight into what is physically and musically musically possible possible for for the the performers and thing, physically and performers and The only thing, economically economically speaking. speaking. The only barrier barrier between between the the is ensembles for whom I write and arrange. musician and and his his potential potential audience audience is is the the lack lack of of space space in in the the musician ensembles for whom I write and arrange. mass media that. is is dedicated to good good music. mass media that dedicated exclusively exclusively to music. Brazzil-Are you composing more at the in piano, your about samba, I would say that it is what Specifically Specifically about samba, I would say that it is what unifies unifies Br¢zzz./-Are you composing more at the piano, in your head, or in the our country. our country. The The poor poor and and the the rich, rich,the theblack blackand andthe thewhite, white,the the head, or in the studio? studio? 40 40

BRAZZIL --JUNE JUNE 2001 2001 BRAZZIL

Moreover, his classical young and classical background background allowed me me to to make makeaa religion. young and the the old. old. ItIthas hasno nocolor, color,no norace, race,no noage, age,nono religion. heart put put into music. and Tom Villa-Lobos and of Villa-Lobos music of the music with the connections with lot of connections music. Samba is our big big heart Jobim. Jobim. As Asyou youknow, know,he he isisnow nowproducing producing my myfirst first solo solo piano piano BrazzJ./-You've with singer/songwriter recording Brazzil-You've worked a lot with recording for his Carmo Carmo label, label, with with distribution distribution from from ECM. ECM. Joyce. Can you you talk talk aa little ]itt]eabout aboutarranging arranging and conducting know exactly We exactly what We still still don't don't know what is is going going to to be be recorded, recorded, but but the sessions for her of my some of as some well as as well material as folk material we will certainly use strong folk Bonito? Tudo Bonito? CD Tudo her CD Mehmari-Joyce music by Brazilian popular of Brazilian and singer, terrificcomposer Mehmari by composers like popular music arrangements of singer, and II arrangements composer and Joyceis isa aterrific love working with her to play me to allows me she allows because she her because Chico Buarque, Buarque, and andNelson NelsonCavaquinho. Cavaquinho. play very Milton, Chico freely and not just just accompany. It was was aa lot lot of fun fun to write the accompany. It arrangements Bo#7./osessions, sessions,and andJoyce Joycegave gave me me Tudo Bonito her7-wdo forher arrangementsfor total freedom to what II wanted. II tried to avoid the write what to write traditional "sustained notes" arranging style style that, that, to to my myears, ears,isis so boring. boring. Also, Also, II recorded recorded the the violin, violin,viola, viola,and andcello celloparts parts before editing the course, in inthe thecase case of of conducting conducting score. Of course, the score. the string quartet, my directions were were more more precise precise than than what what my directions some think and II think are the stereotypical gestures, and stereotypical maestro-type gestures, found no no difficulty difficulty communicating communicating my my intentions intentions to the very very competent Guerra Peixe String Quartet. Guerra Peixe Quartet.

BrazzJ./-How CD Moreno's CD sessions for Tutty Moreno's Brazzi/-How were the sessions similar or different? different? Mehmari-During 'Alma, Forr;as dd '4/rna, for Tutty's sessions for thesessions Mehmari Duringthe Tutty's Forfc" II had had aa lot lot more more conductor conductor business business to to take take care care of of because there was that was material that in the material there was such strong syncopation syncopation in it confused that it by the prerecorded by quartet, that prerecorded the jazz jazz quartet, confused the the strong strong beat-oriented beat-oriented string string players.

B/ozzJ./-Many have pointed pointedtotoStravinsky, Stravinsky,Keith Keith Jarrett, Jarrett, Brazzil-Many have and primary ininGismonti as primary Egberto Gismonti and Egberto fluences comWould you music. Would your music. in your fluences in you comment on this? ment on Mehmari-My Strafor StraMehmari My passion passion for vinsky's to difficult to somewhat difficult music isis somewhat vinsky's music explain, just makes my my but his music just explain, but insides with joy. joy. fills my soul with and fills dance and insides dance Actually, anaActually, the first classical score II ana-

lyzed was stralvinsky` The Rite Rite of ofSpring. spring. Stravinsky'ss The II know know that sounds sounds crazy, crazy, but but it's it's the the truth. had had had 13 years old and had was only truth. II was only 13 very orchestral experience. experience. Apvery little orchestral Ap-

the at the task at monumental task was aa monumental proaching itit was proaching time, for that music was so so but my love for time, but strong to how to learn how to learn drove myself that II drove strong that myself to read understand their their and to understand the parts read the parts and interconnections. interconnections. Stravjnsky's Stravinsky's idiosynidiosyncratic familiar to to has become so familiar cratic writing writing has me can feel feel all all his hismetric metric changes, changes, that II can me that

me. excite me. and excite still surprise they still yet they surprise and yet Stravinsky comwas aa multi-faceted comStravinsky was poser, whose poser, whose compositions compositions range range from from to folk songs Russian folk of Russian arrangements songs to arrangements of serial works the works like the music. II especially serial music. especially like

composed o/Spr/.#g and Rite of TheA/./e between7`4€ Spring and composedbetween his a/ Jy/.#d Wind Symphonies of 12-tone period: his 12-tone period: S};wpAo#/.es Instruments, ofPsalms, Psalms,Piano Piano Symphony of Instruments, Symphony Concerto, Concer[o in inD, D,and andmalny, Violin Concerto Concerto, Violin many, many is precious canon is entire canon His entire many others. His precious and II always find new shades me, and to me, to shades and and interesting his to his return to wheneverII return colors whenever interesting colors

CD contains virtually all original first CD Brazzil-Your BrazzJ./-Your first drew you to What drew material. material. What to record record Milton Milton Nascimento's Nascimento's ``Ponta de Areia"? Areia"? ·Ponta de so II music, so Milton's music, ofMilton's airof theair Mehmari Counterpointisisthe Mehmari-Counterpoint of view. from a very polyphonic point of approach his tunes from "Ponta de folk song Brazilian folk like aa Brazilian almost like become almost has become Areia" has de Areia" ·Ponta song of space for re-creations and improviimprovibecause it allows plenty of sation, as II always sation, always prefer. prefer.

Canto the C¢#fo on the "Cais" on Milton's recordedMilton also recorded Youalso Brazzil BrazzJ'/-You 's ``Cais" CD. Can you talk a little CD. Can you little about about the recording? studio home studio recordedentirely wasrecorded Mehmari Cantowas Mehmari~Canto my home entirelyininmy except for the piano and and voice, voice, which were recorded recorded at at my my CD, II play, this CD, On this Barros's studio. On C~lio Barros's friend Celio play,among amongother other drums, instruments, the cello, instruments, the clarinet, clarinet, flute, flute,viola, viola,violin, violin, cello, drums, double bass, guitar, double guitar, accordion, accordion, and and synths. synths.The Thedisc discfeatures features in an expanded "Cais" in as well as my compositions compositions as as Milton's Milton's "Cais" expanded arrangement.

could be Brazil I could Brazzf./-I be wrong, wrong, you used but haven't but haven't you original harmony? Milton's original believe very Mehmari I`believe very Mehmari-I Brazil's is Brazil thatMMilton stronglythat strongly i lton is 's greatest harmonist, greatest harmonist, and and bebeof my one of "Cais" isis one cause "Cais" my facause vorite songs, II retained vorite retained his his My idea for harmony. My original harmony. make to make was to arrangement was that arrangement sound. II movie inin sound. of movie sort of a sort to convey tried to convey aa short tried short history, history, emotion. of images images and emotion. full of It's basically a three-part piece. It'sbasicallyathree-partpiece. II wrote wrote the the middle middle section, section, where II use where use the the non-vibrato non-vibrato when II was strings, when strings, was moved moved deeply by by the war in Bosnia. deeply and tragblood and of blood tragThe scenes of vivid in my memory were vivid memory edy were arit. This when II recorded when recorded it. This arto rangement isis my homage to rangement rethat rein that war in of war victims of the victims the is indeed and is gion and very imagimaggion indeed very mystic. and mystic. istic and istic

Brazzi! What influenced Brazzl./-Whatinfluenced that "mystical" arrangement tliat arrangement "Mul~ Rendera"? of ``Mul6 Rendera"? was one was Mehmari-That one Mehmari-That to second trip after my made after my second trip to made

music. music.

Bahia. II Salvador, Bahia. beautiful Salvador, beautiful

As one of of my my all-time all-time Jarrett, he isis one for Jarrett, As for favorite piahe is aa great piaOh, he musicians. Oh, favorite musicians. nist, isn't he? He has that that beautiful beautiful piano piano He has nist, isn't tone find to find difficult to so difficult and phrasing tone and phrasing so among can anywhat can And what pianists. And jazz pianists. among jazz anyone about said about been said already been hasn't already one say say that hasn't Egberto's and the piano touch atat the colorfu I touch Egberto's colorful piano and the Brazilian the Brazilian is definitely He is his compositions? ofhis the quality compositions? He quality of definitely the musician as him as heard him first heard most.I I first themost. methe influencedme has influenced who has musician who aa teenager, in finding finding my own own me aa lot in music helped his music and his helped me teenager, and

came back to So came S5o Paulo, Paulo, picked picked "baixolo," which my "bo7.xo/6o," up my up which is is an an to similar to bass guitar acoustic bass guitar similar acoustic and without Steve Swallow's, and Steve without

caLandini caand Landini renaissance modal polyphony-viols ture of renaissance ture polyphony-viols and bass 'n' bass that drum `n' with that on rabecas-together dences played played on dences rczbecczs-together with

voice. voice.

groove. They They blend groove. blend beautifully, beautifully, don't don't they? they?

BRAZZIL 2001 JUNE 2001 BRAZZIL --JUNE

thinking, II started thinking, started playing playing "Mule," folk that simple folk "Mul~," that simple

and it and melody. II recorded melody. recorded it weird mixafter, using that weird started overdubbing immediately immediately after, started mix-

41 41

Brazzil-Thetexts textsbybyFernand`o Fernando Pessoa Pessoa and and Manu\el Manuel B/¢zzz./-The Bandeiraadd addaanice nicetouch touchtotoan analmost almostexclusively instruexclusively instruBandeira mental CD. CD. II understand understandthere therehave have been been some some problems problems mental with the the Bandeira Bandeira family family regarding thetexts textsyou've choregardingthe you'vechowith sen. sen. Mehmari-Manuel,Fernando FernandoPessoa, Pessoa, Drummond, Drummond, Cecflia Mehmari-Manuel, Cecilia Meireles, Saramago, Saramago, and Meireles, and Cam~es Cam6es are are my my favorite favorite Portuguese Portuguese writers. And And both both of of the the Manuel Manuel Bandeira Bandeira poems, language writers. poems, language which originally originally appeared on the the disc, disc, fit fit my my musical intenappeared on which musical intentionsperfectly. perfectly. "Valsa "ValsaRomantica" Rom~ntica"allowed allowedme metotowrite writeininan an tions almostmadrigalistic thatconformed conformedbeautifully withthe the madrigalisticstyle stylethat beautifullywith almost text'semotional emotionalcontent. content.The Theproblem withthe theBandeira Bandeirafamfamproblemwith text's ily was was that thatthey theywere wereasking formore moremoney touse usethe thepoems askingfor moneyto poems ily than the the label label could could afford affordtoto pay. As you know this this kind kind of of pay. As you know than music in in Brazil Brazil is is not to sell, was music not easy easy to sell, and and the the label's label's owner owner was afraidthat thatthe thesum sumrequested requestedby bythe thefamily wastoo toohigh highfor forhis his familywas afraid

deringhow how your yourexperience experienceatatBerklee Berkleecompares with the the compareswith dering music program theUniversidade UniversidadededeSao S~oPau]o. Paulo. program atatthe music Mehmari-1only onlystayed stayedinin Boston Boston for for aa week week oror two two Mehmari-I

becauseI`didn't I didn'tfind findthe theinstruction instructionvery veryhelpful. was helpful.Maybe MaybeI Iwas because justunlucky unluckyand and didn't didn'tfind findthe theright or maybe right people, people, or maybe II didn't just didn't have the the nerve nerve to to wait wait ititout outuntil until the themore moreinteresting classes interestingclasses have became available. available. Everything Everything was was painfully basic. FurtherFurtherpainfully basic. became more, II prefer prefer to to use use my my own own writing writing style style rather rather than than learning learning more, onethat thatisis already already being beingused used by thousands of ofmusicians. musicians. by thousands one At USP, USP, on At on the the other other hand, hand, I Ihad, had,for forthe thefirst firsttime timeininmy mylife, life, the opportunity regularly visit visit aa wonderful wonderful music music library opportunity toto regularly library the where II studied studied the complete works where works ofmy of myfavorite favoritecomposercomposerIgor Stravinsky~as Stravinsky-as well well hundreds hundreds of ofI)ther pther "must "must study" study" Igor

classical works works by by Beethoven, classical Beethoven,Mozart. Mozart,Monteverdi, Monteverdi,Gesualdo, Gesualdo, Mahler, Schubert, Schubert, and and Webern. Webern. You You have Mahler, have to remember remember that II was born born in in Niter6i, Niter~i, but but grew grew up up in in the the Ribeirao Ribeir~o Preto Preto suburb suburb was wasaaridiculous ridiculousamount amountthat thatinin essence essence of profitexpectations. expectations.ItItwas ofsao SaoPaulo, Paulo,aamid-sized mid-sizedcity citythat thatisis calmer calmer and and more more laid laid back back profit was their their way saying, "No, "No, you you can't use the way of than the the city city of of Sao So Paulo; Paulo; itit also also has has much much cleaner cleaner air air toto was of saying, can't use the text." text." We We than talked and and talked, to solve this this problem, but as as it it now problem, but breathe. talked talked, trying trying to.solve now breathe. stands, the the track track "0 "OImpossi'vel Impossivel Carinho" Carinho" with with Na N~ Ozzetti Ozzetti will will came from from the the countryside countrysidetoto Sao S~o Paulo Pauloinin 1995. 1995. But But II only only came stands, have to to be be cut cut from from the the album. album. "Valsa was at at USP USP that that II had had an an outstanding outstanding course course inin music musichistory history have "Valsa Rom~ntica," Romantica," however, however, itit was with Tiago will remain. remain. Tiago Pinheiro's singingwill and where where II met met the the conductor conductor Gil Gil Jardim Jardim who who encouraged me encouragedme and with Pinheiro's singing to write write arrangements arrangements for for different different orchestras, orchestras, which which was was aa to Brazzil-Whatare areyour yourfeelings feelingsabout aboutthe the``funk" "funk"movemove- very very important and practical practical part part of ofmy my musical musical education. education. important and Brazzi./-What ment that thatisisgetting so much much attention attention]ate]y? gettingso lately? ment Mehmariguess I guess aboutthat thathorrible horriblemusic music you 're talkingabout Mehmari-I you're talking

thatisisdominating dominatingthe themass massmedia mediahere herein inBrazil. Brazil.Am AmI I right? right? that Hmmm ... When When II heard heard the the first first bregcz-pczgode, brega-pagode, II thought Hmmm... thought could possibly be worse. worse. But But they've they'vedone doneitit(laughs)! nothing could possiblybe (laughs)! nothing It'svery very sad sad that thatwe wehave haveno nochoice choicebut buttoto listen listen to to this this trash trash It's everywhere. everywhere.

Brazzil-Did you have much much opportunity to play or you have play or Brazzz./-Did opportunity to recordinin New New York? York? record Mehmari No,I just I juststayed stayedthere therefor forthree three days. days. But But it's Mehmari-No, it's

becauseaafew fewdays daysafter afterI I returned returnedtotoBrazil, Brazil, II received funny because funny received call from from aa Brazilian Brazilian producer producerasking askingme me to to record record with with New New aa call Yorker Randy Breckeron on his his new new Brazilian Brazilian project. found Randy Brecker project. II found Yorker thisreally ironic.We We recorded recordedhere herein in Sao Sao Paulo Paulo with with Robertinho Robertinho reallyironic. this Brazzil-So many many record labels today, as Silva, Silva, Sizao Siz~o Machado, independents as Machado, Ricardo Ricardo Silveira, Silveira, and and Teco TecoCardoso. Cardoso. B/azzz./-So record labels today, independents well as The disc disc isis going to be be released released soon soon on on the the Rainbow Rainbow Records Records going to we]] as majors, majors,are are recording recordingand andmarketing marketing"funk," "funk,"so soI'm l'm The if there's there's still still an an audience audience for for Brazilian Brazilian instruinstruwondering if wondering mental music? music? mental Mehmari-Too small print.Just Justkidding. kidding.There Thereare aremany many Mehmari-Too small to to print.

label. label.

who love Brazilian instrumental music and buy CD's

Brazil How was was the the recent recentVisa Visa de deMPB MPB competition competition Brazz!./-How different from from the the first? first? different

Brazzil-Howdo do you feel about Eldorado you feel Brazzj./-How about the the distributor distributor Eldorado

was much, much, much much greater It was prize money money was (laughs). It prize greater (laughs). was actually actually about ten ten times times more more than than itit was was for for the the edition edition I1 won won because because about this competition has become become so so important and so so successful competition has important and this successful that VISA VISA has has been been pumping pumpingaalot lotinto into it. it. But But II honestly honestly think think that that the the performance performancestandard standardcould couldhave havebeen been higher. higher. I1 stopped stopped that because II wasn't very happy with the following itit because happy with just following wasn't very the results. results. It Itjust seemed like like aa lot lot of of good good musicians musicians were were out out to to make make space for space for seemed some not-so-good not-so-good musicians. musicians. But But then then again, again, style style is is somesome someor so so they they say. thing personal, personal, or thing say.

people who love Brazilian instrumental music and buy CD's people and go to concerts, concerts, but, go to and but, of of course, course, instrumental instrumentalmusic musicisisnot nota a mass media media thing. thing. Sadly, Sadly, the the big record companies companies are are busy big record mass busy with very very low low quality entertainment. It's It's aa pity pity in in aa country country so so quality entertainment. with full of of good music and and great musicians. good music full great musicians. their doors? doors? closing their closing Mehmari-Well,surviving themarketplace has been been an an survivingininthe marketplace has Mehmari-Well,

for the the small small labels. problem, especially especially for ongoing problem, ongoing labels. And And the the difficulty artists artists have have of offlnding findinglabels labels that that are are open open toto and and difficulty ofnew new projects related to to this this issue. issue. accepting of projects isis related accepting now time time for for all all small small labels labels to to get get I1 think think it's it's now together and and think think of of some some ways ways to to distribute distribute together their product themselves or or via via another another comcomproduct themselves their

Mehmari Well,there therewas wasno noage age limit limit this this time, Mehmari-Well, time, and andthe the

pany. I believe this is a critical time for the small

pany. I believe this is a critical time for the small labels to to join join forces forces so so the the good good music music that that isis labels being created created is is allowed to reach reach aa wider wider audiaudibeing allowed to ence. I've I've heard heard that thatthe the Eldorado Eldorado record record comcomence.

where my first CD, Vencedores do Pr~mio

pany, where my first CD, ye#cecJores cJo PrGw;o pany, Visa was I/jscz was made, made, will will remain remain in in operation. operation. Brazzi!-You've worked worked with with the the group group BrazzJ./-You've

Nouvelle Cuisine. Cuisine. Didn't one of of the group Nouvelle Didn't one the group members own own aa record label? members record label? Mehmari Yes,actually actually two two ofNouvelle's Mehmari-Yes, of Nouvelle's musicians are are the the owners Music (Why (Why musicians owners ofYBrazil ofYBrazil Music the first first soundtrack soundtrack company Brazil), the company for Brazil), for whom whom I1 recorded. recorded. II especially especially like like clarinetist/composer clarinetist/composer

Luca Raele. Raele. He He is is one my favorite Luca one of of my favorite Brazilian Brazilian musicians. musicians.

Brazzil-As part of your your Visa Visa MPB MPB prize prize Brazzi./-As part of visited the United States, and I'm won-

you visited tlie United States, and I'm wonyou 42 42

BRAZZIL - JUNE 2001

iiJlhtlR+

B/azzJ./-One of Heloisa was pianist finalists was the finalists of the Brazzi!-One pianist He]oisa also has also and Paulo Sao from also is who s, who is also from S~o Paulo and who Fermnde who has Fernandes, Jarrett and Keith Jarrett to Keith compared to been Gismonti.. and Egberto been compared Egberto Gismonti on this? Would this? you comment on Would you to went to -Well, she Mehmari sheisisa avery Mebmari-Well, player. II went piano player. good piano verygood

n that n concert that the impressio had the and had concert and elimination semi-finall eliminatio the semi-fina impression arrangement for intro arrangement Her intro work. Her of my work. she has listened to some ofmy for mine to mine close to was very Preto" was Branco ee Preto" em Branco Jobim's Jot)im's "Retrato em very close album, aa Ge##j.#ame#/e Braif7./ejr ``Passarim" from the Genuinamente Brasileiroo album, for "Passarim" 24-bit with 2000 January in recorded Jobim Tom in January 2000 with 24-bit Jobim tribute tribute to connected her more find her s. But digital recording technique more connected But II find techniques. mentioned. you mentioned. the two than the of Eliane Elias music of with the music two you Elias than piano everypiano thatevery saythat silly,totosay bit silly, little bit find itit aalittle Sometimes, Sometimes, II find classical so-called player who connection with the strong connection who has a strong player I'd like Egberto. I'd d by that add that to add like to or Egberto. Keith or influenced is influence tradition is by Keith directly but Jarrett Keith from not Bach studied I case, my in in my case, I studied Bach not from Keith Jarrett but directly pts. from from Bach's manuscri manuscripts.

What are Brazzz./musical greatest musical and your goals and your goals are your Brauil-Wbat your greatest cha]]enges today? challenges Mehmari musician. better musician. beaabetter musicalgoal Myonly Mehmari-My goalisistotobe onlymusical What never 1'11 because goal fitting a that's For me, it. What attain it. me, that's a fitting goal because I'll never attain time II work each time that each II mean one reach one and reach better and and get work and mean isis that get better It's it.It's realizingit. evenrealizing withouteven goal, II automatically nextwithout the next set the automatically set goal, goals My goals off. My farther off. little farther is aa little goal is the goal time the each time reflex, and each a reflex, achieve to achieve strive to as II strive and as reach, and of reach, out of slightly out remain slightly always always remain notch set aa notch gets set bar gets the bar them, the realize them, and ultimately realize them and the all the to put all know? My greatest challenge itit to you know? higher again, you

My greatest challenge

.. Sopra Demais Vento... DemaisooVento. Sopra (Mehmari Femando Pessoa) (Mehmari // Fernando

.. Blows ... Wind Urgently The Wind UrgentlyBIows.

demals o vento Sop fa demais Sopra .. Para eu poder descansar... poderdescansar.

The wind urgently blows rest... So that I can rest... in my There is something in my thought thought That is about to stop... stop...

o "H~nonomeu meupensanent pensamento . . . vai cousa . parar que Qualquer parar. vai que cousa Qualquer

Talvez esta cousa da alma Maybe something in soul the soul in the real... is real„. Ii fe is vida... real aavida. acha real Que . . That finds life Que acha down calm down Talvez esta cousa calma Maybe this thing will calm d... vivida... almavivida. faz aa alma me fag Que me experienced... . . And make my soul experience Que .. Sopra excessivo... vento excessivo. um vento Sopra urn .. depensar. medo de Tenho medo pensar ... 0 meu avivo eu avivo mist~rio eu meu mist6rio 0 Se me perco a meditar.

esquece, Vento que passa ee esquece, .. cai... se ergue Poeira que ergueeecai. que se Ai de mim se eu pudesse .. vai... mimvai. emmim Saber o que que em

An excessive wind blows... wind blows... I'm think... to think... afraid to I'm afraid

lives My mystery lives lf in thoughts. lost in I'm lost If l'm thoughts. forgets, and forgets, passes and that passes Wind Wind that falls ... and falls... Dust that rises and could Alas, Alas, if II could .. whatgoeso Understandwhat in my soul... Understand goes onninmysoul.

put

essential the essential 'allthe ofmy pieces of musical puzzle together, to make all my musical pieces my from my ideas, from ns between connectio and my influences and between my connections my ideas, my influences traditional from traditional and from bass,and `n' bass, drum 'n' to drum love of Baroque music to challenge. greatest challenge. my greatest improvisation. That free improvisation. to free cfroro is my That is choro to

': ...

Definitely Definitely!!

his received his Bruce Gilman, music Brazzil, received for Brozzf./, editor for music editor Institute of California Institute from California music from the of tlie in music degree in Masters degree Brazilian jazz the Brazilian He leads the Arts. He and plays Ax~ and ensemble Axe jazz ensemble plays

can reach sambo MILA. c#/co for esco/a him reach him You can MILA. You escola de samba cuica cuica@interworld.net e-mail: cuica@interworld.net through through his e-mail:

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r------------------, Selected Discography: Artist(s)

Title

Various

Genuinamente Brasileiro: Tom Jobim

Label

Date

a Valsa Rom~ntica Valsa Romantic Manuel Bandeira) (Mehmari (Mehmari // Manuel

Audiophile Records 2000

A tarde agoniza Ao santo acalanto Da noturna brisa. brisa. morro, tamb6mmorro, que tamb~m eu, que E E eu, consolo, sein consolo, Morro Morro sem

Andr~ Hosoi and Group

Andr~ Hosoi andGroup

Falando M~sica

Carmina Juarez

Tenho Saudade

Sesc/Dabilu

1999

RicaAmabis

Sambadelic

YBrazil Music

1999

Elisa! vens, Elisa! n~o Yens, Se nao

Andrc!a Marquee

Zulu

YBrazil Music

1999

Sujeito a Guincho Klarinettemaschine

YBrazil Music

1999

Andr~ Mehmari and C~lio Barros

Odiss~ia

PMC

1999

Ai nem te humaniza 0 tanto 0 pranto que tanto pranto que Nas faces desliza Do amante que pede Suplicantemente Suplicantemente Elisa! Teu amor, Elisa!

Tutty Moreno

For~as d' Alma

MaJandro

1999

GilJardim

Soprador de Vidro N~cleo Contemporaneo 1998

Andr~ Mehmari and C~lio Barros

Winners ofthe Premio Eldorado Visa de MPB

BRAZZIL 2001 JUNE 2cO1 BRAZZIL --JUNE

2000

Romantic Waltz The afternoon dies ln In the blessed breeze. Nocturnal breeze. die, also die, And II also consolation, Without Without consolation, Elisa! you don't come, If you come, Elisa!

even Alas, Alas, even run The tears that run lover of your lover On the face of Won't touch touch you you languishing And I, languishing Elisa! Ask love, Elisa! Ask for your love, And you laugh! laugh!

pisa! desdenha, pisa! Ri, desdenha, Ri,

entanto, noentanto, canto, no Meu canto, Meu diviniza, Mais te diviniza, Mais diferente, Mulher diferente, indiferente, Tao indiferente, To

1998

though, song, though, My My song, Deifies you woman, Different woman, Different So indifferen indifferent,t, So Heartless Elisa! Elisa!

++/

was passing was Frommer's after Frommer statement to the press shortly after press shortly statement 's passing confirmed confinned:: "Our Marcelo was for dead. Marcelo is dead. Frommer is Marcelo Frommer brother Marcelo "Our brother

Last June I11th Sao his Sao left his Frommer left I th rock rock guitarist guitarist Marcelo Marcelo Frommer Paulo home to go jogging after itit got little after a little got jogging a dark, at around 6:30 PM. PM. Due Due to to the the energy energy that plague restraints that consumpt consumption plague Brazil, ion restraints Brazil, there there were no public public lights lights on, on, so so visibility visibility was limited. As he attempted to the cross the to cross street, aa speeding speeding motorcycle motorcycle ran ran over over him him

andleftw to offer and left without any helpattempting ithoutatte mptingto offeranyh elp-

fell Frommer fell situation. Frommer hit-and-runn situation. a typical hit-and-ru on curb. on aa curb. head on his head hit his on the floor and hit For thirty minutes, minutes, as as ambulances ambulances rushed rushed through the large city's chaotic rush-hour chaotic rush-hour traffic (where in than in worse than be worse can be traffic can (where traffic New York, believe it it or or not), not), Frommer Frommerlay layon on was finally and was blood and own blood his own ofhis a puddle puddle of finally taken to nearby Hospital Hospital das das Clinicas, Clinicas, where where he went went into into aa deep deep coma coma never never to to wake wake up, up, despite of efforts of the valiant efforts of the of his his doctors, doctors, tried their save the to save who tried their best to the musician's musician's life. life.

to us to for us impossible is impossibl It is of happiness happiness.. It giver of us a permanen permanentt giver e for our in our only in not only had not he had that he the importanc express in words the importancee that his as his Just 'as us. Just of us. one of lives of the lives every one music but also also in in the of every organs organs will will continue continue to to live live in in other other peoples' peoples' bodies, bodies, his his art art in the live in to live continue to will continue win the music music and and in in the the spirit spirit of of the the Titas.„ Titas." him ran him who ran man who the man why the be asking of you might be Many of asking why over fled the scene scene of of the the accident. accident. In In my my opinion, opinion, he he did did so so that In that laws. In traffic laws. unfairtraffic often unfair andoften harshand ofBrazil'sharsh because ofBrazil's country, when country, when there there is is an an accident accident such such as as the the one one that that cost cost the driver life, the Frommer'ss life, Marcelo Frommer' driver is is always always considered considered to it. Even if guilty, regardless guilty, regardless of of the the circumstances circumstances that that lead lead to it. Even if faces imprisonshe faces or she he or victim, he the victim, rescues the one stops and rescues imprisonand prosecution, ment cz#dprose cution, and and that that is is definitely definitely not not encouraging encouraging for drivers to help accidents.. life-threatening in life-threat victims in help victims ening accidents MarceloF the s passingis Marcelo Frommer' passing is the rommer's in scene in second blow to Brazil's pop scene Brazil's pop recent months. months. Earlier Earlier this this year, year,

Farewell to a Titan

Brazil's pop-rock scene suffers a severe blow with the

Pc7rc}/czm leader Herbert doSucessosoleaderH Paralamas asdoswces erbert

Vianna suffered a tragic air accident air accident near Rio de Janeiro that his killed his that killed wife and left him paraplegic Acparaplegic.. Acwebsite, they cording to cording to that that band's website, they but have are back practicing,, but back to practicing have no no to back to will get of when they will idea as of get back business. Ironically Ironically,, the the two two bands bands

Paralamas) and Pcrrc}/c}m (Titas and (7j.f6s arsJ frequently frequently

shared the stage, shared stage, playing playing together together as as

a I11I -piece a -piece band. band. Will I;./Gs Tits go Will go on on without without Frommer? that be that would be Frommer? My My guess would they will, once they they take take enough enough time time only Not only loss. Not to grieve their friend's friend's loss. does their press statement statement indirectly indirectly

continue will continue art will that ("...his to that Two days later he was ("... his art brainpoint to was pronounced pronounced brainpoint tragic death of Marcelo to live in the music and dead, to dead, to the the grief and in grief of in the of millions the spirit millions of spirit of of of Brazilian Brazilian the they the over but the Titas."), fans. He was years Tit~s."), was 39 but over 39 years years old. the years old. As As of they of this this writing, writing, Frommer, who was a member have have survived Sao Paulo police was who was on who clue on no clue has no So survived crucial line-up police has crucial line~up of Tit~s, one of the nation's riding the motorbike that premature changes, such killed prematurely such as as Arnaldo Arnaldo Antunes' Antunes' ly killed themusic defection defection.. In Brazilian press, to the Brazilian the musician. According ian.Accor In the themeantime, meantime,however, dingtothe however, press, biggest rock bands it is Brazilfor Brazilmoment for is indeed a sad moment the biker fled into the fled into the darkness, darkness, and and the the few few ian rock. eyewitne a description to get were unable eyewitnesses sseswere unabletog etadescri ption or a license number. license plate plate number. ERNEST BARTELDES Ernest Barteldes is an Barteldes is Hisband, founded Titans), Tit~s (The His band, The an ESL, ESL, GED TheTitas GED (TheTita ns),found ed and Portuguese In addition teacher. In Portuguese teacher. addition almost almost 20 20 years years ago, ago, isisone oneof ofBrazil's Brazil's most most to that, he freelance writer is aa freelance he is writer who wlio and the eighties .Over the rock groups eighties and groups .Over popular rock popular His 2000. His December 2000. since December Brazzi/ since toBrazzJ./ has been been contributing contributing to hirieties, as such hits, of nineties, they they scored scored an an enormous enormous number number of hits, such as work Village Greenwich TheGrec»wi.c been published alsobeen has also work has by rAe publishedby "Comj.do" (Food, later recorded by diva Marisa h yi.//age Monte), "Comida" (Food, later recorded by diva Marisa Monte), Advance, Gazette, The Ga[zette, TheStaten StatenIsland Island-Ad vance,The TheStaten "Morvj.#", "Go Back" and many others. Their live concerts Staten Island lsla_ndRegister, Pegistf!` "Marvin", "Go Back" and many others. Their live concerts other andand GLSSite The 7focSI S/ Muse, publications. W«sc, The T#cVillager, yi.//agcr, GZ,Ssi./e other publications.He He havealwa generacrosses their popularity out, and theirpopu been sold have always ysbeenso ldout,and laritycrossesgeneralives in in Staten Staten Island, Island, NY. NY. He He can can be be reached reached at at with whogrew includeteenagers fansinclude tional barriers-their grew up teenagerswho up with barriers-their fans ebarteldes@nycny.net ebarteldes@nycny.net the MTV specials (one to albums to of the (one of biggest-selling the band's band's biggest-se lling albums date is their Mry or twenties or their twenties on their MTVC/#p/wgg Unplugged) ed) and and people people on eventhirt since their band everrsincethe theebandeve been following who have thirties even ieswhoha vebeenfo llowingth ir debut single, single, "Sonifera "So#j/ercr Ilha" //too" (something (something like like "Sleepy "Sleepy IsIsland"). and„). death, brainndeath, ofFrommer's the confinnation Uponrece Upon receiving ivingthec onfirmationofFrom mer'sbrai his immediate family looked couraand couralooked beyond beyond their their grief grief and musician's donate the example by geously geously set set an an example by agreeing agreeing to to donate the musician's Tits member former 7l./Gs bandmates, organs. His surviving bandmates plus former , plus member but back but years back few years band aa few the band (who quit Antunes (who Arnaldo Antunes quit the issued aa in compositi them in with them collaborate continues to collabora compositions) te with ons) issued

BRAZZIL - JUNE 2001

hie "B Reluctant Reluc[anl Guru

fiuru The The

story story of of Vamberto Vamberto Morais, an Morais, an MD MDfrom fromRecife, Recife,state state of Pernambuco, Pernambuco, who who went of went to to England to to learn learn how how to to better better England look into into minds minds as as aa psychiapsychialook trist and and got got to to see see so so deeply deeply trist and so so far far ahead ahead into into souls souls that that and he ended ended up up as as an an internationinternationhe ally recognized recognized spiritual spiritual mas. masally ter. ter. WILSON VELLOSO VELLOSO WILSON

Although he said in public that "I should Althoughhesaidinpublicthat"Ishould make itit clear clear that that II am am no no guru," Dr. guru," Dr. make Vamberto Morais Morais discovered discovered that that people people Vamberto who listened listened to to him him and and to to his his teachings teachings who couldnot notbe bestopped when pouring esteem stoppedwhen pouringesteem could on him him and, and, very much against very much on against his his wishes, wishes, admired and and revered revered him him as as aaVenerable Venerable admired Master-which is the meaning ofthe Hindi Master-whichisthemeaningoftheHindi term guru. guru. term Morais was was too too modest, modest, too too respectful respectful Morais ofhis Indian teachers, teachers, the the Swamis Swamis and and Sris Sris of his Indian he came came to to know know and and work work with, with, that that he he he had to reject the notion ofhim being placed hadtorejectthenotionofhimbeingplaced onthe the same same footing withthem them while while he he footingwith on searched for formore more elusive elusive and and profound profound searched truths.He Hefelt feltthat thatthere therewas wasno noreason reasonfor for truths. such honor, honor, as as he he didn't didn't deserve deserve it. it. such The puzzle here was was how how and and why puzzle here why The Morais, aascion scion of ofan an ancient ancient and and illustriillustriMorals, ous family of sugar mill bc7ro#s barons of of family of sugar mill ous Pernambuco, in Northeastern Brazil, born, Pemambuco, in Northeastern Brazil, born, bred, and and reared reared inin the the Roman Roman Catholic Catholic bred, faithand andtradition, tradition,an an honor honor and and awardawardfaith winning student student all all his his life, life, including in including in winning the medical medical school school of ofRecife, Recife, aa medical medical the doctoratat22, 22, had had come come to to aa clean clean break break doctor withthe theChurch Church of ofRome, Rome, to to the the point of point of with JohnPaul Paul11II for for criticizingharshly harshly PopeJohn criticizing Pope his most mostconservative conservative utterances. utterances. But Butno no his wonderthat that Vamberto, Vamberto, thus thus turned into aa wonder tuned into topic of discussion and controversy among topicofdiscussionandcontroversyamong friendswho who considered consideredhim him aaconvert converttoto friends BRAZZIL - JUNE 2001

the path he had had picked. pursued the path he picked. agnosticism, pursued agnosticism, However, itit would would be be too too simplistic to attribute attribute his his abansimplistic to However, abandonment of of an an old old faith faith solely solely to to the the influence influence of ofhis his elder elder don.nent brother Gilberto, Gilberto, as as the the story story goes. The fact goes. The brother fact was was that, that, from froman an Morais had had been early age age Morais early been aa thinker, thinker, aa reasoner, reasoner, and and aaseeker seeker who took took pride his own own conclusions conclusions and and arriving atat his pride inin arriving who decisions. decisions. In addition In addition to to everything everything else, else, his his change change had had not not been been sudden. His mutation involved involved much much more more than than aa flash flash sudden. His mutation realization of ofthe the meaning meaningof ofthe theage-old age-oldSpanish saying: yo Yo Spanishsaying: realization no creo creo en en brlyas, believe inin brujas, pero no pero que que las las hay, hay, hay! hay!(I(Idon't don.tbe\ieve witches, but but they exist!) It It went went much much further further than than they certainly certainly exist!) witches, that. that. When he he was was in in Sao So Paulo, Paulo, during during his his residency residency in in When he heard heard about about aa scholarship scholarship being being offered offered by by the psychiatry, he psychiatry, the British Council Council to to aa Brazilian postBritish Brazilian MD MD desirous desirous of of doing doing postwork in in London. London. Entirely Entirely on on his his own, own, Morais graduate work graduate Morais for the the grant, the required test with grant, passed passed the applied for applied required test with flying flying colors and and inin 1946 1946 traveled traveled to to England. England. colors In London London he he got to know know a human and professional got to professional In environmentcompletely differentfrom fromthe theone onehe he was was familfamilcompletelydifferent environment iar with with in in his his country. the stamina stamina and and the the country. He iar He marveled marveled at at the of the the survivors survivors ofof the the B/j./zfrj.eg, Blitzkrieg, walking spirit of spirit walking in in still still darkened streets streets among bombed buildings and around around bomb bomb among bombed buildings and darkened craters. He shared with with the the British British the the rigors rigors of of aa craters. He also shared and food food rationing that sometimes sometimes alalclothing and rationing that disciplined clothing disciplined lowed each each person an an egg per week, sometimes none. lowed none. In spite spite of all all that, or or because because of of it, of it, he he walked walked into into the the swing swingof ofthings things and fell fell in in love love with and with England, England,no nomatter matterhow howbroken, broken,broke, broke, but holding on on to her centuries-old centuries-old spirit. spirit. impoverished, but impoverished, to her He went to practice He practice in in the the aging, aging, renowned renowned Maudsley Maudsley in Camberwell, Camberwell, South Hospital in Hospital South London. London. And, And, faithful faithfulto tothe the letter of of aa commitment commitment that was was part part and and parcel parcel of of his his letter there he worked mental patients and did patients and scholarship, there scholarship, worked with mental did for five five years. years. psychoanalysis for psychoanalysis Morais believed believed in in what what he he was was doing, and he it well. doing, and Morais he did did it well. So well that he he was was invited invited to to give talks on on psychology and give talks psychology and So the Brazilian Brazilian short-wave short-wave service service of ofthe the British British by the psychiatry by psychiatry (BBC). He He also that he he Broadcasting Corporation Corporation (BBC). Broadcasting also decided decided that to take take advantage of living of ought to advantage of living in ought in such such aa great great center of learning: and learning: and study study more, more, much much more. more. But then then in in 1956 by the the Federal Federal But 1956 he he was was approached by of Pemambuco Pemambuco to to teach teach English and English English and English University of University Literature.· He went back back and and for for seven seven months months lectured lectured in in Literature..He Recife. While While in in Brazil Brazil he he had had the the good fortune fortune of ofmeeting his meeting his Recife. future wife. wife. On future On the the other other hand, hand, however, however,he hesoon soonrealized realizedthat that the structure of University courses, courses, and the contents the of University and the contents of of its its curricula could could be be vastly improved. improved. He He agitated for meaningmeaningagitated for curricula ful changes but soon soon realized realized that that there there was was no no political will changes but political will ful to undertake undertake any any improvement. improvement. to He lost patience with the rigid rigid and and sterile sterile bureaucratic bureaucratic of everything in Brazil, as everything in approach of as installed by by the the legacy legacy of of Get~lio Vargas of"create difficulties to sell facilities". Morais GethlioVargasof"createdifflcultiestosellfacilities".Morais decided to to go back to to London. London. It It was was obvious obvious that that he he was was go back decided much happier in England ofacademic England with the ample climate of happier in academic freedom, open discussion, discussion, give give and and take, take, and andthe thegeneral general climate of was aa milieu milieu in in which which he he felt felt much much easier easier ofliberty. climate liberty. ItIt was to indulge his irmate innate restless search and and expand his humanihumaniexpand his indulge his tarianism. tarianism. before as as So he returned to the BBC where he had worked before free lancer. lancer. He He did all sorts he was was intellectually aa free did all sorts of of jobs jobs he equipped to to do. do. He He reviewed reviewedbooks, books,wrote wroteprograms, programs,adapted adapted stage plays for for radio, radio, produced produced and anddirected directedthem, them,often oftenacted acted in them. them. He in He originated originatedaanumber numberof of programs programs at at the the BBC, BBC, series of of Sunday Chronicles, which Sunday ILondon including aa series o#do# C'Aro#;.c/es, which 46

lasted for for many many years. years. lasted He also also thought ofMaria Mariade deLourdes, Lourdes,£oztrdj.##a!, Lourdinha, thoughtfrequently frequentlyof He the young schoolteacherhe hehad hadmet metininRecife. Recife. ItIt was was obvious obvious the young schoolteacher that she she had had made made aa deep deep impression impression on on Vamberto. Vamberto. For Foralmost almost that two years he corresponded occasionally with with her her and and pondered years he corresponded occasionally pondered two the pros and cons cons of of his his bachelorhood. bachelorhood. At lost lost last, he decided pros and the to take take the the plunge and wrote wrote Lourdinha Lourdinhaproposing plunge and proposingmarriage. marriage. to The chosen lady the unexpected of his his was was The lady felt felt that the unexpected offer of unusual and andtook tookher hersweet sweettime time to to respond withaayes. But quite unusual respondwith yes. But quite there was was aa problem. Her family family insisted insisted on on aa Catholic Catholic wedding problem. Her wedding there while Morais Morais clung to his his well-known well-known anticjericalism. clung to Negotiawhile anticlericalism. Negotiations and and arrangements arrangements were were delicate delicate and and complicated. complicated. AA comcomtions was reached reached at at last last for forthe thegood goodofofall allconcerned. concerned. In In promise was promise addition to to aa civil civil marriage, a church wedding was celebrated in addition Recife with with aa male friend standing in as the bridegroom's standing in proxy. Recife bridegroom's proxy. The real real bridegroom London. bridegroom stayed stayed inin London. The The Morais Morais only met as as man man and and wife wife when when Lourdinha Lourdinha set set only met The foot in in the the United United Kingdom in December December 1958. 1958. Typically, Kingdom in foot did not not deter deter Morais Morais in in his his decision decision to to pursue his marriage did pursue his marriage studies. He He decided decided to lean learn Classical Classical Greek Greek and and otherwise otherwise studies. enroll atatthe the University ofLondon. London. He He dived dived into into prepare totoemoll University of prepare Ancient History History and and became became aa scholar scholaron onthe thesubject. As he he subject. As Ancient worked for for his his Ph.D., he devoted attention to the different worked different Christian approaches betweenthe the Roman Roman and and the the Greek Greek OrthoOrthoChristian approachesbetween dox churches. churches. He also accepted aa full full time time job with the the BBC. BBC. job with dox That notwithstanding, notwithstanding, once more he was persuaded to give That Brazil and Pernambuco learned Brazil Pemambuco another another chance chance of of drafting aa learned man and and professor professor of ofhistory, history, even even ifif for him it meant putting his man doctorate work work on on hold. In In addition to his regular classes, doctorate classes, Morais gave lecturesand andwrote wrotetwo twobooks, books,Wome# Women's Emancigave lectures Morais 's Emar#c/.andhis hiscelebrated celebratedShort ShortHistory HistoryOfAnti-Semitism, pationand ofAnti-Semitism, which pation which was later later printed in America. America. (Years later, it also won the Jos6 Jose printed in was Verissimo award award of of the the Brazilian Brazilian Academy ofLetters.) Letters.) Academy of Verissimo But, if ifanything, But, anything, political political conditions conditions in in Brazil Brazilhad hadworsened worsened of great deal. There were increasingly more believable rumors of aa great movement, aa cowp coup d'~tat military movement, aa military d'e'/cr/against againstthe thefragile, fragile,vulnervulnerable, and able, and inexperienced inexperienced newly-found newly-found Brazilian Brazilian democracy. democracy. Lourdinha was was expecting. V amberto was was increasingly expecting. Vamberto increasingly unhapunhapLourdinha with aa number number of ofun unfilled and with with the the possibility pier with possibility pier filled promises promises and of getting involved in turmoil. Their Their getting unwittingly unwittingly involved political turmoil. of in the political was born born in Recife Recife on 1962. daughter Ariadne was daughterAriadne on September September 29, 29,1962. Every day, political clouds grew darker in Brazil and on on the the small hours hours of April 1964, the small April 1,1,1964, the feared feared coup coup was was staged. staged.The The President was was toppled and an an army took over. over. The The toppled and army general general took President movement, since movement, since then then known known as asthe the"Fool's "Fool's Day Day Revolution," Revolution," shut down down its shut its own own iron iron curtain. curtain.Soon Soonafter afterthat, that,Morais-who Morals-who the very of his in aa veryEngland. thought o.f up in simply hated the simply thought daughter growing up 'dictatorship-left for He would only see his wife and dictatorship-left for England. He would only see his wife and

when they they arrived arrivedinin England 1965. again when EnglandininJanuary January 1965. daughter again daughter when he was first attracted to to the the British British That was the year when de Chardin Chardin Society. Society. No No doubt doubt he he had had read read Julian Julian Teilhard de assessmentofofChardin's Chardin's"/force/o/d as "threefolds}/#/rfeesj.s" synthesis" as Huxley's assessment Huxley's in the the introduction introduction to to Chardin's Chardin's 7lfze The Phenomenon presented in presented PAe#o"e#o# of o/ Man. "The synthesis ofthe the material material and and physical world with with the the synthesis of physical world Wa#. world of of mind and spirit; the synthesis ofthe of the past with the the future; future; pastwith world the synthesis with unity, variety with unity, of and the synthesis of of variety of the the many many with with the the one." For Morais, devoting his mind mind and and heart heart to to the the pursuit pursuit of of such a goal would would become become aa lifetime lifetime passion. passion. fruit of of his enterprise as as an an active broadcaster broadcaster was was The first fruit Brazilian personalities to talk talk personalities willing willing to to take to the microphone Brazilian freely about freedom atall levels. Whatever Dom H~lder Camara, freelyaboutfreedomatalllevels.WhateverDomHeldercamara, of Olinda Olinda and and Recife, Recife, said murders Archbishop of the Archbishop said about about the the murders of political prisoners in Brazil by the "revolutionary prisoners in and tortures of and the the innumerable human rights police," and police," innumerable violations violations of of human rights inincensed the Brazilian Brazilian brass. brass. The The public ofthe the ArchArchtestimony of public testimony BRAZZIL BRAZZIL --JUNE JUNE 2001 2001

feltthat thatI I had had gained gained aa felt newlight andaanew newununlightand new derstanding of ofthe theconconderstanding andthe thepractice for ceptand practicefor cept a good spiritual shape, shape, a. asaaresult resultof ofwhat whatI Iwas was as doing and ofwhat I could doingandofwhatlcould seearound aroundme. me. Suddenly Suddenly see realizedthat thatIIhad hadgone gone II realized on aa fascinatingjoumey fascinating journey on ofdiscovery." discovery." of As aapassionate and passionateand As devout)/ogi., he felt felt he yogi, he devout was called called and and dutydutywas bound to to share share his his bound andwent wenton on knowledge and knowledge and leclecteaching yoga teaching yoga and onits its benefits. benefits.He He turingon turing several yoga joined several yoga joined such as the Patanjali Centre for groups groups such as the Patanjali Centre for Classical Yoga and the the Satchidananda Satchidananda Yoga and mere contortionism. contortionism. He He reasoned reasoned that that Classical mere had to more, and Wholistic Trust. Trust. He He also made made contact contact yoga fecrd yoga fo be be something something more, and Wholistic soon found foundout. out. . . with others others thinkers thinkers who who believed believed that that tary, Don DomHelder H~lderCamara Camara was was just "The soon with tary, just "The the communion communion inherent inherentin in yoga yoga applied applied Red Archbishop." But the the BBC BBC BrazilBrazilHe leaned learnedthat thatthe theword wordyoga comes the Archbishop." But yogacomes He Red ian listeners listeners knew knew itit better. better. They had from from the the Sanskrit Sanskritverb verb);"c/, to equally well to to the the most schools of of westWestyud, meaning They had equallywell meaning to ian become familiar with the link, unite, connect, commune. It is an ern Corporation's Christianity. ern Christianity. link, unite, connect, commune. It is an become familiar with the Corporation's commitmentto totruth. truth.And Andthey they could couldsee see important term, from from His solid anticlericalism of ofyounger important Indo-European lndo-European term, younger His commitment an almost impercepdays gave way, in what was was happening in their their country which derived derived the the Latin Latin verb j.#gore~to iugareto days happening in country which gave way, impercepin an what before their theirvery veryeyes. fast, bind, even to totible tible manner, manner, to to the the search search for for answers. answers. eyes. fast, bind,join, join,conjoin, conjoin,couple, couple, even before all its its figurative senses); and and How How does does the the mind mind work? work? What What isis aa marry (in (in all figurative senses); As aa matter matter of of fact, fact, the the highlight highlight of As of many this very and discreet discreet "defama"defama- the the noun noun j.c!g#m, moral conscience? conscience? What Whatisis and and where where isis iugum, meaning very proper proper and meaning aa yoke yoke that that moral this tion drive," drive," as as the the Brazilian Brazilian military allows a carriage to be pulled, ora traverse the the interface interface between between mind mind and and spirit? military and spirit? tion and allowsacarriagetobepulled,oratraverse their sycophants dubbed it, it, included included aa beam beam to to help (or animals) animals) to to What What is is the the ultimate ultimate role role of ofhuman human bebesycophants dubbed help aa person person (or their radioadaptation of Bernard Shaw's Man carry loads. Actually, our English word ings carry loads. Actually, our English word ings on on the planet? Is there there aa place where adaptationofBernard planet? Is place where radio Shaw' s A4lc7# andSwpermc7#. yoke comes comes from from iugum., which has has sevthe spirit survives after after death? death? Superman. ItItwas featuring yoke iugum., which spirit survives a#d was aa rerun rerun featuring sev- the Vladimir a Brazilian former eral More and more leaders with millions millions Herzog, figurative meanings. More and more leaders with eral figurative meanings. Vladimir Herzog, a Brazilian former member of of the the BBC BBC staff, staff, as as the It is is quite to imagine how yoga, of followers followers were were looking around and and at at easy to imagine how looking around quite easy It yoga, of member the leading leading man. The occasion was a tribute to Herzog meaningunion,linkage,drawingtogether each other and obmeaning union, linkage, drawing together each and seeing seeing that-when that-when obman.TheoccasionwasatributetoHerzog who-afew fewyears afterhis his stint stint at at the the was was applied to the the synthesis and the the served yearsafter applied to synthesis and served with with goodwill goodwill and andinindepth-the depth-the whcLa BBC in in London haddied diedininSao So Paulo Paulo synchronization synchronization of ofbody andspirit. Full Orientalandwestemreligionshadmuch Oriental and W estem religions had much bodyand spirit. Full BBC London-had in very Yoga isis not not aa mere mere system of gymnastics in common. That seemed to be the the system of gymnastics in seemed to in very suspicious suspicious circumstances, circumstances, most most Yoga as aa result result of of torture in ajail a jail of ofthe the with likely as with excellent excellent results results for for the the disciplined thought of of William William Blake Blake and and of ofRainer Rainer disciplined thought likely torture in Second Army. Army. Herzog, Herzog, aa well-known practitioner but but also also aa discipline for the the Maria Maria Rilke and, discipline for and, more more recently, recently, of ofThoThoSecond well-known practitioner and broadcaster, had been mind and, it, for the It is mas Merton, Cistercian monk who through journalist spirit. mas Merton, the who mind and, through it, for the spirit. It is journalist and broadcaster, had been the Brazilian Brazilian as as aa "dangerous by the "dangerous union union with with reality and the the attainment' attainment of of became became famous famous for for his his one-man one-man camcamcharged by reality and charged subversive."The Themilitary militaryran ran aa self-servself-serv- aa deep flow, which which helps the individual the Vietnam Vietnam War. War. Merton Merton deep flow, helps the paign against against the individual paign subversive." bureaucratic procedure procedure to to guide and control control his his emotions emotions and and struggled perfunctory bureaucratic guide and struggled for for peace at last. last. Not Not the the peace ing perfunctory peace at peace ing and claimed that "Vlad" had hanged him- thoughts, that is is just a pause in a war, thoughts, free war, but but the the free himself himself of of anxiety anxiety and and that andclaimedthat"Vlad"hadhangedhimself in in prison. constructive, pervading, depression. constructive, pervading, all-encompassall-encompassself prison. That That was was the the unsupported, unsupported, depression. official "finding" the Morais had had many many teachers teachers both both in in ing, unchallenged official ing, durable peace with which which humanhumanMorais unchallenged "finding" of of the case. A A thorough, above-board and un- books books and and in in person. He also also recognized kind dreams. dreams. thorough, above-board recognized kind person. He case. and unbiased investigation was never never carried carried that that good nutritionand and fast fast were were basic basic investigation was good nutrition Brother Patrick patrick Hart HartOCSO, ocso,' a former former biased out. elements of holistic medicine, the mediMerton secretary, secretary, has Merton has mentioned mentioned that that in in elements of holistic medicine, the mediOut. Morais was was distressed distressed by the Herzog cine that that deals deals with with whole whole human human bebe- his by the his autobiography the Dalai Dalai Lama Lama rereHerzog cine autobiography the Morais case and and vowed vowed to to work work for for aa world world in in ings, not only with carriers that Merton was the first Christian Christian ings, not only with marks that carriers of of disease. disease. case which Chardin's Chardin's /forge/o/cJ threefold s);#/feesj.s synthesis He saw saw the the need need for for discipline to who managed the discipline to managed to to "introduce him him to the He which be a A world of freedom in might reality. develop the mind and attain the wished beauties of the Christianity," during beauties of during the develop the mind and attain the wished might be a reality. A world of freedom in union, justice, for serenity. He discovered discovered that that for for many he had had met met with with serenity. He many three-hour meeting meeting he union, justice, understanding, understanding,compascompas- for sion, goodwill, the discipline people the regular prayer prayer Merton in in Bangkok and "got to most sion, goodwill, peace. peace. At At the the Chardin Chardin people discipline of of regular he heard about the yoga masters gave them calm calm and and repose. one another another at at aa Society gave them repose. Of Society he heard about the yoga masters Of course, course, sincerely appreciate one who were and he he argued, not the level of of empathy." disciples and argued, not empathy." the prayer which which is is aa mere mere very profound level who were gaining gaining lots lots of of disciples converts in in England. He simply to request for favors, England. He request for When the Dalai Lama was honored at favors, privileges privileges and and may may be be converts simply had had to taken as as aa way way to from prais- the Lambeth know and began to read voraciously about taken Lambeth Palace, Palace, the the official official resiresito get get rewards rewards from knowandbegantoreadvoraciouslyabout the deity. ing as a not only a collecof of head yoga Canterbury, philosophy, Archbishop dence ofArchbishop of canterbury, head ing the deity. yoga as a philosophy, not only a collec"A few years years ago," ago," Morais Moraiswrote," wrote, "I I of "A few tion of of the the Anglican Church, the Anglican Church, the Brazilian Brazilian tion of useful useful body bodyexercises exerciseswhich-if which-if and other other personalities, broadbishop and personalities, broadbishop cast by by the the BBC, BBC, was was branded branded as as "Com"Comcast munist slander." slander." To To the the Brazilian Brazilian milimilimunist

BRAZZIL --JUNE JUNE 2001 2001 BRAZZIL

carried to to extremes-might into extremes-mightdevelop developinto carried

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themininbondage virtualslaves, slaves,and and keepingthem bondageasasvirtual keeping them to subhuman conditions of livsubjecting subjecting them to subhuman conditions of livandwork. work. ingand ing VambertoMorais Moraisdied diedAugust 2000,felled felled August2000, Vamberto cerebralhemorrhage while the hemorrhage swimming bybya acerebral while swimming inin the seaininRecife, Recife,his his birthplace. Hewas was78 78 years birthplace. He years sea old.Death Deathcame camewhile whilehehewas wasininthe themiddle middleofof old. oneofofhis hismany cherishedprojects: had manycherished projects:hehehad one advertised in London libraries for of like people advertised in London libraries for people of like mindand andscholarship and scholarshiptotogather gatherinina agroup groupand mind togetherbrush brushup theirNew NewTestament TestamentGreek Greek uptheir together andtotodiscuss discussitsitsmeanings. meanings. and In the newsletter ofthe Westminster Inter Faith InthenewsletterofthewestminsterlnterFaith Society,his hisgreat greatfriend friendSister SisterElisabeth Elisabethwrote: wrote: I Society, "Lourdes, daughter, "Lourdes,his hiswife, wife, and and Ariadne, Ariadne, his his daughter, shouldknow knowhow howgreatly Interfaithpilgrims greatly lnterFaith pilgrims should willmiss missVamberto's Vamberto'svisible visiblecompany the companyalong alongthe will road.Thankfully, weknow knowthat thatthe thevisible visibleisisnot not Thankfully,we road. thewhole wholepicture." picture." the Hewould wouldbebeshocked shockedwith withthe thepresent presentday day He developmentofofyoga andteaching the yogastudy studyand teachingininthe development U.S. For For millions millions ofof Americans, Americans, itit has has now now U.S. become/re#dy trendytotododoyoga kindofofcompetiyogaasasa akind competibecome tivesport, entertainment,ororaapassing fad.. So So for sport,entertainment, passingfad tive for businesspromoters, another gold promoters,yoga yogaisis only only another gold business lodetotobebemined. mined.Morais Moraismost mostprobably would probablywould lode trustthat thatthe thetruth truthand andthe thelight thathave havebeen been lightthat trust from the the East East for for thousands thousands of ofyears shining from years shining shalleventually eventuallyprevail prevaileverywhere. everywhere. shall

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guru was specially invited and introduced to the Buddhist

guru was specially invited and introduced to the Buddhist leader. leader. Pope John Paul II has also been quoted, in reference to the Pope John Paul 11 has also been quoted, in reference to the Dalai Lama, that "there is much more that unites us than that Dalai Lama, that "there is much more that unites us than that separates us." separates us." It was thus that the centuries-old Yogic connection beIt was thus that the centuries-old Yogic cormection between body and mind expanded marvelously into the exploratween body and mind expanded marvelously into the exploration of common ground between faiths. Morais could comforttion of common ground between faiths. Morais could comfortably join the British Interfaith Society. It was not, as Lourdes ablyjoin the British lnterFaith Society. It was not, as Lourdes Morais pointed out, a "conversion back to Catholicism but Morais pointed out, a "conversion back to Catholicism but toward a faith free of the barriers and the limitations reaching reaching toward a faith free of the barriers and the limitations of any one religion." of any one religion." He was deeply faithful to yoga, meditated three times a day He was deeply faithful to yoga, meditated three times a day and continued as a scrupulous vegetarian. He visited ashrams and continued as a scrupulous vegetarian. He visited c7sforc7ms in India. When he visited Brazil he organized yoga retreats and in India. When he visited Brazil he organized yoga retreats and talked friends and co-religionists to participate. He got to talked friends and co-religionists to participate. He got to admire greatly the work of the youthful and progressive admire greatly the work of the youthful and progressive Brazilian clergy, inspired on the so-called "Theology of LibBrazilian clergy, inspired on the so-called "Theology of Liberation." eration." Morais had achieved such a level of spirituality that he Morais had achieved such a level of spirituality that he loved to share with others, giving courses, writing magazine loved to share with others, giving courses, writing magazine articles, cooperating with the Alan Babington Group. In a way, articles, Cooperating with the Alan Babington Group. In a way, he felt like Socrates, the "everlasting student" who "never he felt like Socrates, the "everlasting student" who "never stops learning and keeps forever his ability to wonder." stops leaning and keeps forever his ability to wonder."

An indefatigable man of action, he was much more than a An indefatigable man of action, he was much more than a theoretician. theoretician. He practiced what the Theravada Buddhists call Metta or He practiced what the Theravada Buddhists call Mer/a or kindness, both in his private live and his public activiloving loving kindness, both in his private live and his public activities. He supported energetically the campaign for a more just, ties. He supported energetically the campaign for a more just, humane, and rational treatment of several nations of Amazon humane, and rational treatment of several nations of Amazon Indians, Yanomanos, Macushis, and Tiri~s a drive that made Indians, Yanomanos, Macushis, and Tiri6s-a drive that made waves all over the world. He also denounced the dastardly waves all over the world. He also denounced the dastardly exploitation of Brazilian rural workers by a few international exploitation of Brazilian rural workers by a few international corporations that were "developing" as pastures thousands of corporations that were "developing" as pastures thousands of square miles of virgin forests of the Mato Grosso (Big Woods),

Women's Porto Alegre RS Emancipation (in Alegre RS Wome# 's E"c7#cr.po/j.o# (in Portuguese), Portuguese), Porto Brazil, 1968 Brazil,1968

Short History Jos~ Veriss.rmo Verissimo History Of of Anti-Semitism (Port), ]os6 AA Short Anti-Semitism (Port), Award of ofthe the Brazilian Brazilian Academy of Letters,1971. Letters, 1971. The The EuroEuroAcademy of Award pean Book Diffusion, publishers, Sao Paulo, 1972.

pean Book Diffusion, publishers, Sao Paulo,1972. A Short History ofAnti-Semitism (in English), W. W.Norton 4Sfoor/fJJ.s/oryo/id#/J.-Sem;.rism(inEnglish),W.W.Norton &Co., Co.,New NewYork York 1976. 1976. &

The Contribution Contribution of Modern Life ofYoga Yoga toto Modern (in Engtiist\), Life (in English), The contributed as a of The Nature Man D. chapter byD. of Religious contributed as a chapter of 7lfoe Iva/#re o/Re//.gz.oar A4c}# by B. Fry, the Octagon 1982. Fry, the 8. Octagon Press, Press,London, London,1982. The Mystery Jesus (Port.), (Port.), IBRASA 7lfee rtys/Cry of o/Jesur IBRASA publishers, publishers, Sao Sao Paulo, 1990. Paulo,1990. Meditation Through IBRASA Yoga (Port), publishers, Medj./cz/I.o# 7ldro%gfo yogcz (Port), IB RASA publishers,Sao Sao Paulo, 1991. Paulo,1991. The First First Christian ChristianCommunity andthe the Religion the Communityand Religion Of ofthe The Future (Port), IBRASA So Paulo, 1992. publishers, F#/ore (Port), IBRASA publishers, Sao Paulo,1992. The Meaning 772c Mecz#j.#gofo/Life £7/e (Port). (Port). IBRASA IBRASA publishers, publishers, Sao Sao Paulo, 1993. Paulo,1993.

The Religion Third Millenium Millenium (Port), (Port), TBR`A:SA IBRASA of the The Religion Of the Third S~0 Paulo, 1995. publishers, publishers, Sao Paulo,1995. Parables for Our rl.me Time (Port), Pclrcl6/es /or Oar (Port), IBRASA IBRASA publishers, publishers, So Sao Paulo, 1997. Paulo,1997. The Light Transcendence Light At The At The TheEnd EndOf OfThe TheTunnel-The Tunnel-The Transceydence Paulo, 1998. of Death (Port), o/Dec]/fo (Port),IBRASA lBRASApublishers, publishers,Sao Sao Paulo,1998.

The Return the Goddess printed. 77!e Jig/%r#ofo//foe Goddess(Port)-being (PortLbeing printed. Wilson Velloso Velloso is a veteran veteran /acA Jack a/dr/ tradeswho who has has of allJrade§ Wilson is a several of them in Brazil-where he was born of practiced practiced several of them in Brazil-where he was born of the UK, UK, and Spanish parentage--Argentina, Spanish parentage-Argentina, the and Canada. Canada. He Heisisan an American citizen citizen by since 1955, American by choice choice since 1955, was waschief chiefof ofpress press at at the the ofAmerican American States StatesininWashington DC and and has has Organization of WashingtonDC Organization been writing on and and off offfor forBrozz;/ Brazzi/ since since 1995. He can can be be writing on been l99S. He reached, sometimes, reached, sometimes, at at vewilson@oaks.com vewilson@3oaks.com

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7 Dias em 2000 (Seven Days in 2000)Comedy. A grandmother is caught by surprise by the arrival of her young grand;rof£::iye.T£:g!a::id:f,%;f:rh%:.u:g:h:23g!:snE who was was sent sent away from home away from daughter who daughter were having having money because the parents were troubles after overextending their credit card limits. Written and directed by Jair :ra°r:b!]9ij:s¥e#jYteernexie3diTr8ecttheedfrb;r:gil: Alves, with Alves, with Javert Javert Monteiro, Monteiro, Beatriz BeatrizCamCamand Theodora Theodora Ribeiro. Ribeiro. pos and pos Ovelhas Negras (Black Sheep)-Based in texts written by writer Caio Fernando Abreu t8#warit%£gb'ya;£::%ka,Sohf:rpn)aTdBoaAebdr;a who died died from from AIDS AIDS in in 1996. 1996. The The play play who portrays an artist who finds to be HIV positive. Directed by Pedro Cardillo and Claudia Schapira, with C~sar Guiraro and Eduardo Estrela. iia::;i[::s:E::,r:eg:'e;3;:y:hg8E::o:s#ii:Ha#[

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WHEPIVEPIRE,sGAun WHEREVER YOU ARE IN THIS GALAXY

(818) 986-1295

VOLUNTEERS

e-mail:eqlaw@pacbell.net

PRcOFREADIIG PROOFREADING WR'TINe WRITING VAimuil»IG MAINTAININGVAILiiiG MAILING LlsT LIST a&EVErmiNG EVERYTHINGELSE ELSE

MEMBER. STATE BAR OF CALIFORNIA

no!H NEEDS

NEEDS

VOLUNTEERS FDR FOB

IMMIGRATION MATTERS BUSINESS VISAS DEPORTATION DEFENSE DIVORCES

323-255-8062 323-255-8062

SAN FERNANDO VALLEY, CALIFORNIA

brarzil@brazzil.com brazzil@brazzil.com

YOU CAN CHARGE YOUR AD IN

bail in

RETURN THIS FORM TO:

BRAZZIL • PO BOX 50536 LOS ANGELES, CA 90050 Call (323)255-8062 or E-mail: brazzil@brazzil.com

For Ad, call (323) 255-8062 or E-mail: brazzil@brazzil.com 50

BRAZZIL --JUNE JUNE 2001 BRAZZIL

FEIRA LIVRE

flexible hours. Must have own sewing machine. Some flifeu#iasgrorng#i4i#sue Portuguese preferred. Gail (310) 849-5922 [177]

LISSI1AS brauzil-A0S (323) 255-8062 CANDANGO BOOKS: BOOKS: On-Line Sebo http:// http:// CANDANGO On-Line Sebo www.silvaoxendalebooks.com[184] [184) www.silvaoxendalebooks.com

ISIneSS IppOr\URI!] Home-Based Business - Earn up to $6,000 working from home! www.quickbuilders.com/3146 24 hr info: 212-461-2511[184] ##:-#:fo:Os#20E:e,i.#tsi{J#i3ru||d::stcoo#3i§§

asses English Classes - San Diego, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Salt Lake City - $310 1 month - $675 3 months - $975 6 months, 1-20 provided, International Academy of English, 1-800-789-8068 t!oi!ai,;Sihc9iig:i;ay#Cg3i;:iissD!3F:iLr:g:7:i§hi:jii:7r!i§ PORTUGUESECLASSES CLASSES- -Brazilian Brazilian teacher. teacher. PORTUGUESE

Fast, easy, efficient and pleasant way to learn

Portuguese. (949) 240-8178 [184] 58itdgeuaessy6.iFLC;jn2t48bdt%eitsfan]twaytolearn

Conversational Brazilian Portuguese Method .CSntYjeedTasti:::ra:,B:#':a:?o°Teua:#eBaAMzi[|## • 'I tried several methods to learn BRAZILIAN PORTUGUESE,but butwhen when II started startedlessons lessonswith with PORTUGUESE, NILSON,I I knew knew immediately immediately that thatl'dI'd found found the the NILSON, bestone. one.And Andininjust fewmonths, months,I Iwas wasable abletoto justa afew best communicateonona aoncon-one one-on-one basis.'Individual, Individual, communicate basis." Total Immersion, Corporate Group and SemiPrivate. Phone (310) 379-0738 [181) E3tva!t:rpmheor;:°(n5,8)°3ro7°9r.aot;38G[?#]andsemiPortuguese Courses in Salvador da Bahia, Di~logo, http://www.brazilstudy.com, E-mail: dialogo@brazilstudy.com, fax 01155 71 336-6329 i:art#¥#B:,o#i;£z,£tatj#:ifepfh:a'

ntertainmen Experienced "Brasileiro" Guitarist; Brazilian native Jo~o Junqueira (MFA in Jazz Guitar at CALARTS) is available to play, sing and record, solo or accompanied, his specialty, Authentic Brazilian Music, Originals and Jazz. Please call (818) 716-.9053 or write j_unqueira@yahoo.com [179]

;¥E#Ti:ii#i!j;i;#F:&##i!,rij;: 0

'ere

Procuramosmulheres mulherespara paratrabalhar trabalharC0mo como Procuramos

modelo ex~tico na regi~o do condado de Los Angeles e de Orange. Telefone para 310-21776[5 e deixe mensagem e n~mero de telefone em Ingles, EspanholouPortugu~s. Fale Portugu~es muito {8gi?;°!s:;|ait#:I;ai#:i:df;:,#o:rti;:§°;flo:-±% lentamente entender. para possamos Iehamenie para queque pos'samos entender, [1 [179] Wanted:garment makertotoSew clothing for sewclothing garmentmaker Wanted: individual. Possible 'start-up' business. Part-fimel individual.'Possible'start-up'busjness.Part-time/ BRAZZIL - JUNE 2001 BRAZZIL -JUNE 2001

i0ug

Technical Recruiter (Head Hunter) needed for metallurgical engineer willing to move to Brazil from California. I have experience in nearly all aspects of Foundry Metallurgy, including Quality Control and Testing. Prefer work in a foundry that produces castings for automotive, power generations, or railroad. (This has been the majority of my work in steels, stainless steels, irons, brass, aluminum and a few exotics.) Would also consider work in any other industry where a metallurgist's expertise would be of need. (Power plants for corrosion project, etc). Would appreciate any help in gaining any contacts in Brazil. R~sum~ and references are available by request. i!::a;;;uioir;ki;i}::i§:ii{;r;:;i:it!3;i!#:§§#!ipip;ijz:::ar E-mail me meat: at: acsmeteng@hotmail.coin acsmeteng@hotmail.com [181] Ermajl

erS0Ia3 III

Sagittarlan or Gemini Girl Preferred by a holistic doctor & astrologer from India, 45 years Fg,9s#5j#toorr&G:§TrjoT:;::,frpor:f:nr5fa:£g; old, who is US citizen & well settled in Beverly Hills. Would like to meet a pretty slim female. Call Dr. David 323-936-1449 [183] i¢i,'is|#D:::diik;C!!:8:;£:i;ii#i§#fi#fi:nayrs

Handsome US Citizen, 5'8' tall, 159 lbs, seeks Brazilian or Latino girl, age 30+, friendship first. Fax or call (925) 609-9023. E-mail: petenaji@pacbell.net [183) :£Z#acn£T!!::):gpo:i:'!::2%e3t°[:;f3r;endshlpflrst American Male, 33, engineer, seeks sincere atAmerican Male, 33, engineer, Seeks sincere attractive Brazilian lady 21-35 for friendship and possible relationship. In the Bay Area/San Francisco, California. My interests are soccer, motorcycle, outdoors, travel, and Brazilian cultural enrichment. E-mail: acsmeteng@hotmail.com §ri§C#!e{a:iiiii:niri!P;yi:;;#8g{i;i:;ia;;!i:n!aF?r:i::r: [181] Frances-Americano,45, delga, afraenle, olos Isce Hane0UIS azuis, professor, professor, falo franc~s, ingl~s, espanhol, azuis, falo france-s, ingles, espanhol, Psychic reading by Sabrina. Tell past, present um pouco de portugu~s, procuro brasileira and future, solve all problems, specializing in delgada, 18-38 morando em Los Angeles. Willrelationships, remove evil and bad luck. 100 per- 8#gapd°au,Ct°8.d3%#%rrtaungduoe:hpLr8SuAr:gg,Teas:j'#,e iam (310) 305-2090 [181] cent success rate. Toll Free: 888-225-0893 or jam (310) 305-2090 [181] !e::ff;u£:i:;;ii!.:?y!:ei:vr##:a:d:!i2i::a|pi'i!ee!n: Brazlllan man, I am looking for American person. 305-947-5320[185] [185] Brazilian man,I am looking forAmerican Person 305-947-5320 I am single, I am 28 years old. E-mail: I am _single,I am 28-years old. E-mail Looking for partner to buy or build pousada in lindos@msn.com [178) lindos@msn.com [178] Northeast Brazil. See the Northeast with our 4x4 k::i:nagstf8:apz#:::3eb«yo£[ebau!'(dw#hu:#|Z Brasileiro-Americano, 3636 anos, anos, romantico romantico ee tour, Natal Natal to to Jericoacoara Jericoacoaraon onthe themost mostbeautiful beautiful Brasileiro.Americano, tour, atraente, procurando procurando relacionamento relacionamento com com beaches. E-mail: zo@planetguides.com Phone: atraente, brasileiraououamericana. americana.(818) 344-1881[1[166] (818)344-1881 774-7458 [178) (941) brasileira 66] (¥4aic)h;;4.i-4E§j[[:{73PP]anetguides.comphone: Swedish gentleman, widower, 58, well educated, SIC speaks Port., seeks independent, warmhearted, Learn to play Brazlllan percussion. Videos for educated lady with humor, and good professional sale. Visit us on www.bridgesto.com Demo and status in Brazil, USA or anywhere. Write Bjorn free lesson on the website. [186) f;3iTevs:;#:0:hre#:§[{!%'::s:§]%jo°#.¥:dm8Safn°dr Gunnarson PO Box 17242, Stockholm, 10462 §t8|:n!:i;:!o!aid;}:#bk;i:in:;7§ii!:£jini!e¢o#!eT:ai;!oi!!' Sweden-E-mail:bjom_s@dataphone.se - E-mail:bjorn_s@dataphone.se[1[164] Brazlllan Music in its totality. Samba, bossa Sweden 64] nova, chorinho, bai~o, ax~, and more. Merchant :ore::I:ahnor#:,}Cba',naj:Sal8:a:j#msoarg.ba'erbc°hsasn3 785-2131 Express(954) (954)785-2131 ersona Express Handsome US Citizen, 5'8' tall,159 lbs, seeks

an see\S ma Brazilian bottom, 33 ylo, 5'5, 123lbs, white diariese etodas todasasasprincjpais principaisrevistas, revistas,incluindo incluindo skin, seeks black, young top man who wanna diarios move to Brazil and share a whole life. Valdeckmasculinase femininas. e femininas.Tel. Tel.(954 (954) 785-2131 masculinas :kTi::I;:#:b|a:cFa'!333:rn:::{ow§::fa#e;I:o:',#§it: ) 785-2131 Phone 011 5571 981 1990, valdecka@ Phone 0115571 981 1990, valdecka@ hotmail.com [163] ersona hotmail.com [163] Jornais e revlstas do Brasil. Recebemos jomais JomaisereviStaSdoBrasil.Recebemosjornais

oman see s man Educated DWF mid age +, attractive brunette, green eyes, petite, 128 lbs. Lover of Brazilian music, travel, country living, beach, people, good food, more. Seeking nice gentleman Brazilian or American/Euro. Medium figure, no vices, Christian believer, good sense of humor, outdoor lover. I am an American citizen and financially stable. Write, send picture full body to PO Box 87, Eagle Creek,OR OR97022J)087 97022--0087 (Laura) [185) Creek, (Laura) [185] Sraslielra, 35 anos, morena, atraenle. Falo Portugu~s e Ingles. Procuro brasileiro de ascend~ncia africana em Los Angeles, educado e culto. Enviar foto. E-mail: pmgutier@aol.com (185] [185] Educated,pretty pretty Brazilianlady iso nice semilady iso nice semiretired man. We'll teach English and enjoy beautiful nature in Maceib, Brazil, most of the year. Write to 41 Sutter #1033 San Francisco 94104 £#:nd:;#:e:i!Wu##e#%h3B;:&';hmF.i:!c:##ia8uL(180)

• FEIRA LIVRE RATES 50c a word Phone IS One word • DISCOUNTS For 3times deduct5% foro times deduct 10%

tor 12 times deduct 15%

• POLICY: All ads to be prepaid Ads are accepted at our discretion Your canceled check is your receipt Please include ad dress and phone number which wll be kept confidential • DEADLINE: The 25th of the month Late material will be held or the tollowino month f appropriate ·TOPLACE AD Send ad wth check money order or your Credit Card number (plus yOu name and expiration date) to

BRAZZIL P.O. Box 50536 Los Angeles. CA 90050-0536.

|E#aE±

• kstreta

Brasll Brasil Brasll Brasil CuM Cult. Ctr

(310) (310) 397-3667 397-3667 Modern Lang. Center (310) 839-8427

!3#ELt#,2:eni • ltrut A Art lei

ArtMedla Art Media (310) 826-1443

t.3]#2frrfu

•On1-.. • fists A lascibens

ABFC Bras. da Fl6r. ABFC •. As. As, Bras. da F16r. (407) 354-5200 Cim. Com. Brasil- EUA !4&q:).3c¥L5.2#ae».EUA (305) 579-9030 |3k°k)i7!-#3&on.As. ARARA - Amazon. As. (813) 842-3161 (.81RE61

• fensslrtdo Brasil Consulado Con®ul®dodo Br.ctl

• Legal Berrien

Melojas & Ferraz (310) 360-0901 Pre-Paid Legal Services (562) 437-7807 F5F2r£!d7.t#sowices

#oo,J33ft8r

• Leans Finance Plus Mort. Corp. (310) 585-8911 i#8)n%#3:,tort,Con|.

(305) 285-6200 (*305)285-6200

• lentstr H~dimo de S& S% Hedlmo d® (305) 262-8212 (L¥§).::268a2i[.

Luciano Garcia (954) 424-5868

t+9#24j5fro8fro

• fed t lemrages

•__qu±==±;.`tr%*XpAIIBraz.Imp.&Exp, All Braz. Imp. & Exp. tar

• tett

Fogo e Palxdo (310) 450-4586 [3%?4.5P#x!g

• yietn

NIIson A. A. Santos Santos Nilson (213) 483-3430

t.21ffi°idm • Psychotter/fasad.

Elizabeth Almeida, M.A. EIlzabeth Almelda, N.A. (310) 470-0214 (D3,1.°j)£7epTrsq::4si Dr. Jefferson S#

RAZILIAN

Boston

•rm • lees

Plenitude Livraria Plenitude (800) 532-5809 (:Ou)532-5809

• tansirtr

Consulado do Bra8il Brasil Consulado do (617) 542-4000 (.6`ffiJrooo

• lent#st Sylvlo P. Lessa (617) 924-1882

i6y,#2P!-EL • Fed t Products Brasil Brasil Brasll Bracll (617) 561-6094 (617)561-6094 Food Awhizo8 Mestizos (781) 322-4002

(.78RE2 • lstrrte

Sergio & Doris Travel (281) 679-9979 i2¥1g)!37&grD#9§Trave|

Los Angeles •Arm • Airlines

Varig (800) GO VARIG

!8acoLGgELG • Arts 4 Crafts

Ar do BnsH Ar Brasil 473-6482 (310) (310)473-6482 Bakari Studlo Bakarl Art Studio (323) (323) 857-0523 857-0523 Folk Creations Folk Creations (310) 693-2844 Culture Planet !3ul£|::3p-,2a#et (310) 441-9808 t.3fu44ff8

• Art Repair

Cosmo Auto Parts

Approach Student Ctr (617) 787-5401 t6i?;°7#5S4Stou,dentctr Braz. & Amer. Lg. Inst. (617) 787-7716

(323) (323) 259-9818 259-9818 Pit Stop (310) 643-6666

The Brazilian Monthly (617) 566-3651 !6h£7:B:r:6arsi;3£!ijMinth::,de Bossa: Braz. Jazz Guide (617) 262-9997

(213) 688-2996 t.2irfu&2996

:6#ffiLg.Inst. · blirrtiens

`.6`RE • lest«rats C,'6 Bl'®all

Caf~ Brazil 1 7)789-5980 789-5980 (617) lpanema enema (508) 460-6144 08)460-6144 Tropic~lia (617) 567-4422 pEp,:!!ljc*#ascaria Pampas Churrascaria (617) 661-6613 (617)661-6613

Chicago • fansslrt

Consulado G. G. do do Biasll Brasil Consulado

`.3`ffi

(312) 464-0244

• Jaus#ties

Portuguese Lang. Ctr. (312) 276-6683 P3°#ffi8L3ano.Ctr.

aelJ-

Dallas 8 Houston, IX • fibs A Assacities

Brazilian Brazilian Cultural Cultural Center Center (713) 961-3063 Fila Brasileiro Association [i,1.3)8%:i|30|io3A8§oclctlon (817) 447--3868 (.81EL868

• itrtie

Capoeira Golpe Bonito (713) 463-6584

:7:ffioBonlto • lestrants

Boi Brasa Bol na Brasa (817) 329-5514 Fogo de Chio (972) 503-7300 (713) 978-6500 Samba Caf~ (713) 961-7379

i;iti#3-es66 • hauls

Banco do Bra8lI Brasil Banco do

• Bikinis

Verdo Brazll Vero Brazil Blklnis Bikinis 887-1776 (818) (818)887-1776

.",•On" • Cttes

Samba Saml]a Collection Colledion (562) (562) 438-3996 438-3996

• Elis A lssochties

Brazil-Cal. Chbr Chbr Of of Com. Com. Bmzll.Col. (310) 0) 556-7958 556-7958 Brazilian Sociocult. C. C. mzillan Sociocult. (310) 370-0929 £t),:78-u#u2r9aiGaacho Centro Cultural Ga~cho (323) 23) 256-6548 256-6548 LA -- Samba Samba School MILA (310) 202-8091 0) 202-8091 Mov. Mov. Social Socl.I Humanista Humanlctl (310) 281-6652 !3al#8Lt6-peE::.desamba SambaL~ ·Esc. de Samba (562) (562) 438-3996 438-3996

• fanslzs Brazilian Brazilian Consulate Consiilate (323) 651-2664 (.32ffi2664

• lentist

Gilberto Henriques (310) 371-0620 Georgia Maria Ferreira (818) 908-9199

i:#ffLlffidra • ants Prentis

Brazllian Nites Nltos Prod. Prod, Brazilian (818) 566-1111 (R8i:i)rd5%4#1 Ricardo Gehr (818) 343-7099 Sayegh Promotions (562) 863-3463

l#jife8 • Fed rednets

i;iii,ii;;:,h;ii `.7`RE-#

Supermercado Brasil (310) 837-4291

• Imel Agene

Hands of of Care CareMac. Mas. Then. Ther. (323) (323) 937-3835 937-3835

Brazil Brasileiro Bull Brasllctro (972) 594-8894 (972) 594-8894 52

i3u,EL;i%#a8il • lea#tt tress

Tanla Habed{om, Tania Haberkorn, N.A. M.A. (310) 840-5380

I.3`ffi.-,.. - mite t

Br\zzl' Brazzil

(323) 255-8062 t.32ELRE

·leaf btrt

` t

Cent. 21 TAnla Sayegh (562) 462-1564 Solon G. Pereira §5oF:t);42:#:n#rsaaycgh (562) 924-9633

(.56ffilut • lestruts 4 Catts Bossa Bossa Nova Nova

(310) 657-5070 By Brazil (310) 787-7520 !!j,!j#!,:;,::: Caf~ Brasil (310) 0) 837-8957 ee7-8957 Itana Bahia na Bahla (310) 657-6306 Rioo°br6£:-€#u6mscula Braz. Churrascaria (714) 4) 739-2000 Sabor Brazll Brazil (310) 839-9196 £3a`b°!#9196 Zabumba (310) 841-6525 (310)841-6525

• tipping

Key International Group (562) 437-7807

!%ffimup • Irashrtio/hrtrp.

Brazilian Int. lnt. Affairs Affdr. Brazilian (310) 854-5881 (310)854-5881

• Irl/Tars

Brazil Air All Brazil (800) 441-8515 (B8r#)|#-ui:15 Brazil Tours (818) 767-1200 (818)767-1200 Cheviot Hills Travof Travel Ch®vlot Hllle (310) 202-6264 Copacabana Travel !3i9|c¥8;6n2a64T,av®i (800) 471-6333 E8£)v4&7,i##&Tour. Festival Travel & Tours (800) 776-0088 L8.#s).#L#&8Tour. H.I.S. Intemnat. Tours 13)613-0943 (213) 613-0943 South outl` Winds Wlnd. Tr Tr &8 Tours Tour. (800) (800) 533-3423 533-3423

•

Brazil & Production Brazil TV rv & Producoon (562) (562) 439-4830 4394830

Miami - S.Florida • Airlines

Transbra€]l Transbrasil (800) 872-3153 Varig (800) 468-2744 Vasp (800) 732-8277 %a#i732.8277

I:a:i:::;: • Attorney

Joel Slewart Stewart (954) 772-7600 (954) 772-7600

• lats

Banco do Bra.lI Brasil (305) (305) 358-3586 358-3586 B&nco Nacional Naclonal Banco (305) 372-0100 (83.?;!o3#-.il00 Banco Real (305) 358-2433 Banespa (305) 358-9167 (B:a:}%,::::;

`.30:::I;js:;i:a:i

• Psychotherapists

Katja Rego Johnson (954) 255-5715

(213) 207-2770 (213)207-2770

•I

(305) 523-8134 Brazil by Mail (954) 472-7163 Vanya's Sweets (954) 785-0087 Via Brasil (305) 866-7718

#"RE:hnson • Physicians

Ora Henriette Falllace Dra Henr[et(e Falllace (305) 935-2452 Dr. Roberto Shaffer b3r:5R:3&2;5s2haffer (305) (305) 535-1694 535-1694 Dr. Dr, Neri Nell Franzon Franzon (954) 776-1412

t.95ffi4ffi • Pukicrtiens

Florida Rovlow Review (305) (305) 374-5235 374-5235

· utrm al Estrte

t,95ffi4ffi • estrats

Simone Bethencourt Simone Bethencou rt (954) 704-1211

Boteco (954) 566-3190 Brazilian Tropicana (954) 781-1113 li#;"##:o%,clna Porco Porcao (305) (305) 373-2777 373-2777 Steak Na8ters Masters (305) 567-1718

t.3ORE-rfu

• Ire! Agencies

Brazlllan Wave Brazilian (305) 561-3788 (D3,::)o#e`ri7k8iiTours Discover Brazil Tours (800) (800) 524-3666 524-3666 Euroam6rica Euroam~rica (305) 358-3003 International Tours !3!e5L3a:%#iours (800) 822-1318 Luma Travel L8u#)a8T2£-j&18 (305) 374-8635 Monark Travel L3::)#r¥v3e5i (305) 374-5855 L3#)p3:£i%5u5ro New Port Tours (305) 372-5007 Br Online Travel !3r°8)nii7n2e-¥r°a7vct (888) (888) 527-2745 527-2745 Via Brasil Travel Travel VII Bmcll (305) (305) 866-7580 866-7580

New York N. Jersey

-rm • lets

Luso-Brazilian Luso.Brazll lan Books

(800) 727-LUSO `.80#0#7iLEL

The The Br®8lll.n8 Brasilians

(212) 382-1630 (212)382-1630

Brazl lian Volc® Brazilian Voice (201) 955-1137 0CA Magazine (516) 596-1853 Portugal-Brasil News (212) 228-2958 |i#ii[B§!;n8!i|Nevs Samba Newsletter Nevsletter (718) 937-0574

`.7ffi • estrats

Bra81lia Brasilia (212) 869-9200 (212)869-9200 Brazil 2000 Brazil 2000 (212) (212) 877-7730 877-7730 Brazilian Pavillion Brazilian Pavllllon (212) (212) 758-8129 758-8129 Cabana Car]oca Carioca (212) 581-8088 (212) 581 -8088 Indigo Blues 221-0033 (212) {2iiJ°22Bi'.u£833 S.O.B. S.O.B. (212) 243-4940 Tapajbs River (201) 491-9196

i:a!#:EL • Ire! Agencies

Barb Tour Tour Serric® Service (201) (201 ) 313-0996 313-0996 Odyssea Travel Service (212) 826-3019 f2ey2;i3ai:ba,Vgelservice

San Diego

•"

• Art

i:iuffi::ir:; • pert/Epart Brazil Imports •:6##EL ·llnoy letttes (619) 234-3401

Vigo-California (800) 994-1GO

#O,.c#i!#

San Francisco . RARE

• llrllnes

Varig (650) 794-1998 %a#?79"98 Vasp (800) 732-VASP

!8acohavAsp • ltbrey

Laura Basaloco-Lapo (415) 288-6727 ##L:#-a6J:7 Manoel Faria (510) 537-3533 (.51#37-3533

• Ats

N~lson Auto Body (415) 255-6717 Matts Auto Body (415) 565-3560

!tlae#EUEL;y • hearty Alie

Bibbo Blbbo (415) 421-8I80 Carmen's International !4:#:#-P[?e9matlonal (415) 433-9441 Neyde's (415) 681-5355

##s;:i

• Cits t Assoc#tens

Bay Area Brasilian Club (415) 334-0106 Capoeira Institute (510) 655-8207

• fans#rt

Aquarela (510) 548-1310 !5#!g,3;t.3r|&|8e Birds of Paradise (415) 863-3651 Ginga Brasil (510) 428-0698 Samba do Cora~lo i;;:n;g)#;r;#jo:raca° (415) 826-2588

i2#riBfaB#ct!On, • Feed Prent

Amazonia Amazonl. (718) 204-1521 Coisa Nossa !7;,8s)a#sts5a2' (201) 578-2675 Merchant Express (201) 589-5884

li:ffimes · Publicrtiens

Brazzil Brazzll (323) (323) 255-8062 255-8062

:;RE!:8rrict • stretie

Portuguese Lang. Serv. (415) 587-4990

:4o,#e4ffow. • Money lenlttaee

Brazil Express-Vigo (415) 749-0524 a¥!"784:gr:Oi}#.VIgo West Brazil 695-9258 (415) (.4`RE19258

• lisle

C~lia Malheiros Celia Malh®iros (415) (415) 738-2434 738-2434 Fogo na Roupa (510) 464-5999 i5!o,d#Ti#a Voz do Brazil (415) 586-2276

(.41RE6 • Peressini

Emiliano Benevides Benevides Emiliano (415) 648-2441 (415)648-2441

• Arty

• ysick

M. C. Printing (510) 268-8967

i6a#nj;7ffi • Clubs A Assoc#rtiens

(415) 665-1994 (.4`ffi94

• salting

• Fed

Brazil Express (415) 749-0524 Evergreen Market (415) 641-4506 Java Catering (925) 253-7776

Clube Bras. San Diego (619) 295-0842 Sunday Night Cl. Brazil (619) 233-5979

(212) 751-4691 (B2#)I,1:;#o9J.Bureau Brazilian Com. Bureau (212) 916-3200 Brazlllan Trade Bur. !2#)I,i#i:aapdeBur. (212) 224-6280 (£1Z)Z24-62cO

BBJ (Br. Bus. Junction) (212) 768-1545

Natlva Productions Productlon8 Nativa (408) 287-9798 §|%)et28M7L9®|:8 Planet Music (415) 210-0556 (.41#10-0556

Dr. Guilherme Salgado (415) 832-6219

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My mental journey journey into Brazil began on Christmas Eve 1999 when II bought bought aa 2,000 2,000 page page book book called called Africana: the Encyclopedia of the African and AfricanEncyclopedia of American Experience. II had been into studies studies of of the African Diaspora for some time but I never knew anything about Brazi BrazilI except except for forsoccer, soccer,Pele, Pel6,the themovie movie BlameltonRioandbossanova.As1flippedthroughthe Blame It on Rio and bossa nova. As I flipped through the

pages pages of of this this incredible incredible book, book, II became became totally totally amazed amazed at how many articles articles there were were about Brazil and the contributions Afro-Braof Afro-Brazilians to BrazilianstoBrazilian society. When When I discovered that that there were were anywhere from where 70 to I105 million black black people people in in Brazil, Brazil, my my 05 million obsession was official. A country with 2-3 times moreblackpeoplethanAmericaand1neverknew more black people than America and I never knew anything about it. From that point, point, II began began an an endlesssear6hforinformationabout"mypeople" endless search for information about "my people" in this, this, the the largest largest country country in in South South America. America. II found two books by legendary Afro-Brazilian activist Abdias do do Nascimento, Nascimento, read read probably probably more than 1,000 1,000 pages pages of of internet internet articles articles (thank (thank Brazzi!) from hundreds of sources and you, began you, Brazzil) from hundreds of sources and began to invest in in Brazilian LPs LPs and and CDs. CDs. The history of ofAfro-Brazilians Afro-Brazilians sounded sounded all all too familiar. famil iar.Africans Africanscaptured, captured,enslaved enslavedand andbrought brought Meeting Danielle's to the New World and forced to build aa country country while being excluded from full status of of citizencitizenfriend Marli turned out to ship. The similarities between Afro-Brazilians •,,,,, be a preview to an and African-Americans were amazing. Too many to name here, here, but but do do the the research. research. interesting and at times I had read many articles about Brazil written who had .been been there but very few by by people by very few by disturbing view of race in people who of African African descent descent like like mys,elf. myself. II live people of people live in in Brazil. Many of the people Detroit, Michigan, a city citythat thathas hasaadeep deephistory historyofof racial animosity between blacks and whites. Dethat Danielle labeled as troit is one one of ofAmerica's cities, havhavAmerica's "Chocolate" cities, being white- in Salvador 80-90 percent black. My ing a population that is 80-90 percent black. My interactions with whites whites in in Detroit's Detroit's surrounding would not be considered suburbs give white in the US. me enough enough reason reason to believe that at MARK WELLS times, interinterpretations of pretations of societycanbe society can be very different when when comparing black and white white perspectives. For instance, compare how how differently differently blacks blacks OJ Simpson fiasco. and whites viewed the OJ Simpson fiasco. When speaking speaking of of Brazil, many many people people speak speak of of beaches, beautiful women women and and Camaval. Camaval. But But my my reresearch also informed me about about crime, crime, poverty poverty and andracial racial discrimination. decided to to first firstvisit visit Salvador, Salvador,Bahia, Bahia, discrimination. II decided another city with a 80 percent black population and also another of Afro-Brazilian culture. Through determidetermithe center of nation and luck, luck, I made made a few nation few contacts contacts on on the the Internet Internet

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withtwo twopeople whoI Iwill willforever foreverconsider considertotobebemy brother mybrother peoplewho with and sister in Brazil. and sister in Brazil. Without Danielle Danielle and and Marcus Marcus and and Brazzil Brazzi! magazine's magazine's Without own Kirsten Kirsten (thank so much!), voyage to to Brazil Brazil (thank you you so much!), my my voyage own would not have been In the there were as beginning, possible. would not have been possible. In the beginning, there were as as five other who wanted to make the journey many people many as five other people who wanted to make the journey below the equator with me. But as September (the month I was belowtheequatorwithme.Butasseptember(themonthlwas becamethe the"last "lastman man standing". must leaving)approached, standing".II must approached,I Ibecame leaving) admit, the idea of 15 hours on an solo was a little airplane admit, the idea of 15 hours on an airplane solo was a little but in Salvador reassured that would be scary, my people they scary,butmypeopleinSalvadorreassuredthattheywouldbe therefor forme meevery everystep theway. way. stepofofthe there tookme mefrom fromDetroit DetroittotoNew NewYork YorktotoSao SaoPaulo Paulo Myflight flighttook My and to Salvador. On the from New York to Sao finally plane and finally to Salvador. On the plane from New York to Sao Paulo, I noticed that I was one of three black on only people Paulo, I noticed that I was one of only three black people on theairplane, butsoon soonthe thepeople onthe theplane made me me feel feel planemade airplane,but peopleon the comfortable.Many wereBrazilians Braziliansreturning home.The The verycomfortable. Manywere returninghome. very guy sitting in front of me, who I will call Sergio eased my

guy sitting in front of me, who I will call Sergio eased my spirits by telling me stories about his adventures in MassachuspiritsbytellingmestoriesabouthisadventuresinMassachusetts.He Heengaged meininaa conversation conversationabout aboutracial racialpolitics engagedme politicsinin setts. Brazil.I Ihad hadread readabout termssuch suchas asmoreno morenoand andmulatto mulattoand and aboutterms Brazil. the of a "racial and here was assurSergio myth democracy" the myth of a "racial democracy" and here was Sergio assurmethat thathaving darkskin skinininBrazil Brazilwould wouldnot notbe beaaproblem problem ingme havingdark ing forme. me. II thought to myself, myself, "another "another victim victim of ofthe the myth." myth." thought to for

Loneliest Ever Ever Loneliest arrivalininSao SaoPaulo Paulowas wasanother anothershock shocktotomy Myarrival mysystem. system. My I had left New York and was now in Brazil's tothe the just equal I hadjust left New Yolk and was now in Brazil's equal to At JFK I noticed blacks, whites, Asians Big airport, Apple. Big Apple. At JFK airport, I noticed blacks, whites, Asians andLatinos Latinoseverywhere. Theairport airportininSao SaoPaulo Paulowas wasaastark stark everywhere.The and contrastbecause becauseofofitsits lack lackof ofblacks. blacks. AAcity million cityofof1616 million contrast people, a third of which are black, and I saw only two other people, a third of which are black, and I saw only two other black people theentire entireairport andthey WORKEDthere. there. theyWORKED people inin the airportand black Thismust musthave havebeen beenone oneof ofthe the loneliest loneliestfeelings feelingsof ofmy entire myentire This life. life. remember when when the the guy atthe thebaggage check-inasked asked guy at baggagecheck-in II remember me ifl was to Salvador. When I asked him how he knew, going meiflwasgoingtoSalvador.When1askedhimhowheknew, he politely answered that he could tell by "how I was dressed". hepolitelyansweredthathecouldtellby"howlwasdressed". O.K. When When II finally finally arrived arrived in in Salvador, Salvador, II was was greeted by my greeted by my O.K. new Internet "sister" Danielle and her friend Marli. Being new lnternet "sister" Danielle and her friend Marli. Being American, II had had to to adjust to the Brazilian greeting adjust to American, the traditional traditional Brazilian greeting of the kiss on each cheek. Danielle was a pretty, of the kiss on each cheek. Danielle was a pretty, dark-skinned dark-skinned "sista", "sista", but but II couldn't couldn'tquite outwhat whatMarli Marli was. was. She quitefigure figureout lacked the skin tone that most white categorized pinkish lacked the pinkish skin tone that categorized most white by American standards, but she wasn't quite black people people by American standards, but she wasn't quite black either. It out that that her her grandfather grandfather was was black. black. Brazil... Brazil... either. It turned turned out the land of miscegenation. the land of miscegenation. We loaded loaded my into Marli's Marli's tiny blue car car and and started started my bags bags into tiny blue We the drive into the My was nowhere near city. Portuguese the drive into the city. My Portuguese was nowhere near but they were quite impressed with my usage of the perfect, perfect, but they were quite impressed with my usage of the three week week stay, During my my three language. During language. stay, II felt felt aa little little shy shy about about my elementary using my using elementary Portuguese, Portuguese, but but after afterthe the first firstweek, week, Danielle began thatII stop using her her as as aa translator translator began demanding demandingthat stop using Danielle because "voce "voc~ fala fala Portugu6s". After all, all, we we were Portugu~s". After because were communicommunifine and when we weren't, we both carried dictiocating just catingjust fine and when we weren't, we both carried dictionaries. naries. Salvador reminded reminded me had seen seen of of Jamaica, Jamaica, Salvador me of of photos photos II had Cuba and Florida as well as birth state of Georgia. Plenty my Cuba and Florida as well as my birth state of Georgia. Plenty of trees, red dirt and hot weather. It isno secret that there palm ofpalmtrees,reddirtandhotweather.Itisnosecretthatthere are some beautiful African-American women at home, are some beautiful African-American women at home, but but here were were their their beautiful beautiful "sisters". "sisters". Before Before II arrived arrived in in SalvaSalvahere

dor,I Ihad hadseen seenmany ofmy beautiful "sistas" "sistas" in in the the pages pages of of mybeautiful manyof dor, Brasil magazine, and here here they they were; were; walking walking home home Ra~a Brasil magazine, and Raga with bags ofgroceries, standing atat bus-stops bus-stops and and chasing groceries, standing chasing bags of with soccerballs. balls.Like LikeininAmerica, America,the theskin skintones tonesvaried variedfrom from the the soccer thedarkest darkestblue-black. blue-black.But ButI I must mustsay, say, II highest-yellowtotothe highest-yellow havenever neverseen seen soso many many dark-skinned dark-skinnedblack blackwomen womenwith with have hairininmy mylife. life. straightororcurly curlyhair straight It'sa ashame, shame,but butmany blackwomen womenwould would kill kill to to have have manyblack It's this"good" hair.Indoctrination Indoctrinationatatitsitsfinest. finest.The Thewomen womenthat that "good"hair. this don'thave havestraight curlyhair hairwear... wear... you you would would never never straightororcurly don't believe what is a very popular hairstyle in Brazil right now for believewhatisaverypopularhairstyleinBrazilrightnowfor Afro-Brazilian women. women. The The hairstyle hairstyle isis called called an an "Afro "Afro Afro-Brazilian Permanente" but 20 years ago in America, we cal led it a" Jheri Perinanente"but20yearsagoinAmerica,wecalledita"Jheri Curl".Wow, Wow,this thishairstyle hasbeen beenhot hotwith withwomen womenfor foraafew few hairstylehas Curl". hereand andevery nowand andthen thenyou seeaa"brotha" "brotha"with withaa yearshere everynow yousee years fresh, wet, wet, straight out of of aa 1979 1979 Michael Michael Jackson photo straight out fresh, photo album"Jheri"...I "Jheri" .. .Imean mean"Afro "AfroPermanente". Permanente". album Thethree three of ofus us The were trying detrying toto dewere cide upon decent upon aa decent cide hoteland andafter aftervisitvisithotel few, II decided decided ingaafew, ing onaalittle littlehotel hotelon onaa on street called called Rua Rua street Sete de de Setembro. Setembro. Sete The street street was was The namedafter afterthe theBraBranamed zilian day ofindeindeday of zilian 1822.I pendenceinin1822. pendence I

won't mention mention the the won't name of of the the hotel, hotel, name butmy newfriends friends mynew but why I I kept asking asking why kept was staying there.I I stayingthere. was wanted aa hotel hotel wanted where II could could be beinin where the middle middle of of the the the action and and blend blendinin action with the the common common with folk. This place profolk.Thisplace.provided me me with with the the vided view of ofthe the perfect view perfect street and and was was only only street 20-minute walk walk aa 20-minute from the the hishisaway from away toric Pelourinho Pelourinho toric District that that II had had read read so somuch much about. about. District morning II witnessed witnessed hundreds hundreds of ofBaianos walking Every moming Every Baianos walking to their their destinations. destinations. People drive in in Salvador, Salvador, but but II think People drive to think that that 75 percent ofthe the city city catches catchesthe the 6nibus. ~nibus. On On an an probably 75 percent of probably these bus stops are with to 50 people day, packed up average average day, these bus stops are packed with up to 50 people waiting for the bus that will take them to where they are going. waitingforthebusthatwilltakethemtowheretheyaregoing. rode the the bus bus more more times times in in my my three-week three-week stay stay than than II have have II rode since II was was about about 15 15 years old. But But II loved loved it. it. These These buses buses have have years old. since cashiers who will make change for you if you don't have exact cashiers who will make change for you if you don't have exact concept. change. Interesting Interesting concept. change.

Little Pay Pay Little The most popular car in this city was the 1975 Volkswagen Themostpopularcarinthiscitywasthel975Volkswagen Bug. I couldn't couldn'tfigure outwhy this car car and and its its minivan minivan model model figureout whythis

standards. American white by been white have been not have Salvador by America Salvador would not n standard s. Therew descent African of obvious of course There were peopleofobvio many ereofco urseman ypeople usAfricandesce nt and II saw and saw very very few few white white people people in in Salvador, Salvador, excluding excluding the the many the that the read that and Europe. Europe. II had many tourists from America and had read blackpo the total half of was approximately in Brazil wasapp black population pulationinBrazil roximat.elyhalf ofthetot al Brazilian populati the The skin many population. on. The skin complexion complexion of of many of of the be white had the complexto bewhite considered Danielle people that peoplet hatDani ellecons ideredto hadthecomplexions of what America be Hispanic to be consider to would consider Americans Hispanic.. ns would Theywe a light brown because not white were they possessed They renotwh itebecau setheyp ossessedalightbr own in But in hair. But or curly either straight had either skin tone and usually had a Ph.D. curly hair. straight or Salvado white. considered were they Danielle as Salvador, Industrialization Industria explained, opgeographically r, as lization in Danielle in Brazil Brazil happened explaine happened geograp d, they were considered white. hically opSalvador, in Salvado the Brazil- After nearly two weeks in in America. it happened Economically, posite than r, II finally positeth finally met anithapp met my my friend enedinA friend merica.E conomically,theBrazilMarcus, a short South. In American the America to the ian North is equivale lan equivalent short guy guy with with light light skin nt to skinand anddreadlocks, dreadlocks,who n South. whowas In America, America, Marcus, was musician and aa musician during the past 50 years, This guy guy is years, people is aa Capoeira Capoeira master people and master and and families families migrated migrated north north very talented. This to cities cities like like Detroit, to know know everybody. Detroit, Chicago, everybody. Originally Chicago,New Originally from New York Yorkand from Rio, andalso Rio, Marcus alsowest Marcus westtoto and seemed to had moved conversed had We years few a Salvador to moved to south Brazil, like Los ago. migrated people places like to Salvado r a few years places ago. We had Los Angeles. converse Angeles. In d In Brazil, people migrated south to we and we arrived and before II arrived months before six months about six like Rio, cities like cities Rio, Sao Sao Paulo, Paulo, Porte Porte Alegre Alegreand andBelo BeloHorizonte. Horizonte. through e-mail for about of fascinated both fascinat discovered for my me for with me shoes with and shoes suits and II had brought two dress suits my discover history of ed that we were were both ed with with the the history Africa extende African very I don't dress stay in Salvador. extendeddstayinS Diaspora. by extravagantly and the African alvador.Idon'td Diaspora . ressveryextravagantlyby inerican He wanted me to meet the he that he kids that other game. whole other wasaawhole thiswas butthis standards, Americanstandard game. When s, but the neighborhood neighborhood kids When Danielle saw my clothing we So we African history. Saturdayss teaching on Saturday worked with on history. So teaching African clothing,, she she asked asked why why II dressed dressed so so chic. chic. worked was metinth know II was would immedia She told me that people would immediately a 10-minute was about a little Pra~a Onze, met in the park that ePrapaO nze,alit tleparkt hatwasa bouta1O tely know -minute walk jinerica restaurant. a at lunch little a had and hotel, my from articles suit, and shoes becauseeofmyF American from jogging ofmy FILA nbecaus my hotel, and had ILAsho a little lunch at a restaurant. As esandjoggingsuit,articles As we looked at all four years. for four II had been wearing wearing for years. all of the the people people walking walking by, by, Marcus Marcus explained explained Walking the streets, II realized what and II white and called white Danielle called that Danielle what she she meant. meant. The The everyevery- to me that these same people that dayappa In the black also. were as Hispanic/Latino, referred to in the referred of America reminded in Salvador of people day apparel actually toasHis relofpeo panicn,atino,w pleinSa lvadorre ereactua mindedofAmer llyblack also.Int icainthe he 1970s. 1970s. But But once way that once again, that Mexicans Mexicans are again, II loved loved it. are considered considered to it. II was was ecstatic ecstatic to to be be descendents descendents of to get get away away same way of from "Big Wille", Americans, these Wille", "appearance "appearance of these people people were. of money money syndrome" were descendents descendents of syndrome" that of Afrithat Native Americans, Africans, also. black thus, cans, Detroit, In Detroit. might people plagued my thus, black also. plagued my community community in in Detroit. In Detroit, people might He reminde livepayc tell you will tell these people of these all of not all remindedd me that not it. SUV knowwit.SUV never but you would to paycheck, live paycheck you people will hecktop aycheck,butyou wouldn everkno that he When he his point. to prove on to went on and went are black and Roclike names and fashion trucks and prove his Hilfiger, Tommy Coogi, they are point. When fashion names like Coogi, Tommy Hilfiger, Roea-Wear and Air Jordans are asked she race what order our cashier fair-skinned the SalvaIn Detroit. in are everywh taking everywhere fair-skin ned cashier taking our order what race she ere in Detroit. In Salvaconsidered herself, she became became offended considered dor, you dor, you don't don't see see much muchnamenaneoffended as as she she explaine material.. brand material by explained d that she never categorized categorized herself herself by race. America has been notorious Many of racial its racial for its on of these people live on notorious for $150 per negative image but the problems, S150 per month month or or less, problem less, thus thus s, but the negative image of of blackness blackness in in Brazil has been so influential clothingisthefur that the people from is the furthest upon the thing clothing thestthin influential upon gfrom people that manydo are of African that theyareofAf the fact thatthey anxwas anxDanielle was minds. Danielle their minds. accepttthefact many don't n'taccep rican ious to take me to her church. It descent. reasons why main reasons the main descent This is one of It why of the rained in Brazil black mass of lacked any Brazil has in Salvador strong, every has lacked Salvador nearly every any kind kind of strong, mass black moveme the as the same way the same in the movement way as day II was was there, nt for equal rights in there, even even if if only only for for 10 Civil Rights Moveme wars the wars and the America and in America Movement 10 minutes minutes in in aa day, day, the nt in the rain rain always made an appearance of (I the of the countriess of African countrie many African in many of independ independence ence in appearance (I 1960s. understa the is the that Septemb understand September nd that er is rain season). The too was too rain was The rain the strong to brave the elements the Blacks Despit All Despite e All first week II was was there, there, but but we we week. second week. made it in my second The idea of of "enbranq (whitening) "enbranquecimento" uecimento" (whiteni ng) Once again, again, II was was pleasantly pleasantly Brazilian the Brazilian has stripped stripped the democracy" and "racial democra cy" has church Catholicchurch At this catholic surprise surprised. d.Atthis to of unity kind Of ofany color of ofcolor any kind population populati on of unity to protest protest ceremon ceremony, y, people people were were dressed dressed againstt discrimination ofracialdiscrim forceofracial invisible against the heinvisi bleforce ination injeans, a shirts, and slacks in jeans, andplain plain shirts, a that is so obvious in When many country. When this country. in this many of of far cry from from the the $1,000 S I,000 suits suitsthat that these Brazilian of color visit Brazilianss of visit America, America, they they expeexpeseemed unoffian unoffiof an seemed to to be part of rience culture shock in that in discover that they discover when they shock when in many churches cial dress code in churches America America,, they are not not considered considered white. white. It It is is aa These home. These I had attended back home. shame when people are self. II ofself. denial of in denial are in to of GOD the words people take peopleta Marcus and II caught town kethewo caught two buses rdsofGO Dto buses across across town fi;#-a:;;i as they church come heart because they ;-;`the-y -;-oine to to church as they that I would not city that the city ofthe sawparts andI Isaw hourand nexthour thenext partsof duringthe are.are. during I would not MeetingDanielle be a preview out tobeaprev turnedoutto friend Mar Danielle's 'sfriendM arliIituned about people in noticed about Onething otherway. seenany haveseen thingIInoticed way.One anyother iew have people in Brazi I. Salvador in Brazil. view of race times disturbing to an an interesting interestingand andatattimesd isturbingviewofra also very happy. ce in Sa|vador is is that that most most of of them them are are poor, poor, but but also very happy. Many of in Entering white in labeled asasbeing Danielle labeled thatDanielle the people of the beingWhite people that the city, I Entering one one of of the the many many favelas favelas (shantytowns) (shantytowns) in in the city, I mint in mint were in them were how so were so popular and how so many many of of them this manufactures still manufac Brazil still that Brazil learned that Then II learned condition. condition. Then tures this can only Salvadorrcanonl live inSalvado who of the people car. The majorit majorityyofthep car.The eoplew holivein y degree a college hassacolleg day. Danielle a car some dream ofbuying dreamo fbuyingacarsom eday.Da nielleha edegree matter of As aa matter month. As but only earns $300 per month. of fact, fact, 22 of of her her 33 for rarity for (a rarity have college all have brother all sisters sisters and degrees (a college degrees and her brother month. $300-350 between $300-35 earn between all earn but all blacks in Brazil) but blacks per 0 per month. is an Her oldest sister is Degree an English English teacher teacher with with aa Master's Master's Degree onneamin She is working around $18,000 and earnssaround andearn earningg year. .Sheisw $18,000per peryear orkingo

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askedMarcus Marcus ififhe hethought wasdangerous forme metotobebe totally dangerousfor thoughtititwas totallyhooked hookedononBaiano Baianofood. food.I Was I waseating with eatingacaraj6 acaraj~with asked there. He told me that as as I didn't my skin speak, vatap~ and If restaurants are closed can long everyday. vatapa and feijao everyday. If restaurants are closed you can you feij~o there. He told me that as long as I didn't speak, my skin measasaalocal, local,thus thusIIwouldn't wouldn'thave haveany anyproblems. problems. alwaysgetde|iciousBaianodelicaciesjustwalkingthestreets. categorizedme always get delicious Baiano delicacies just walking the streets. categorized Afewhourslater,Marcus, PeopleofofEuropean descentwere weremore moreatat Europeandescent A few hours later, Marcus, People his girlfriend, risk because are obvious outsiders and his anotherfriend friend they girlfriend, another risk because they are obvious outsiders and and I all went to the lle Aiye associated with wealth. We arrived and and I all went to the Ile Aiy¢ finally associated with wealth. We finally arrived and concert. enteredinto intoa ahouse housewhose whosebackyard featureda a concert. The The scene scene atat this this backyardfeatured entered show beautifulview viewofofa alake lakesurrounded surroundedbybypalm palm showwas wassimilar similartotowhat whatI I beautiful had treesand andtropical tropicalscenery. how had seen seen inin "the "the 'hood" 'hood"inin amazinghow scenery.ItItisis amazing trees Salvador has so much natural God-made many black communities inin beauty many black communities Salvador has so much natural God-made beauty America. surroundingsosomuch muchman-made man-madepoverty. America.Hundreds Hundredsofofyoung poverty.InIn young surrounding thishouse houseI Imet metsenior seniorcitizens citizensthat thatreminded reminded I folks having time, folks having aa good good time, this me of my relatives in and drinking. dancing, dancing, eating and drinking. Georgia. eating me of my relatives in Georgia. During Theyspoke spokePortuguese, butI Ifelt feltan an instant instant vacationand andesesDuringmy Portuguese,but myvacation They bondofoffamily. family.The Thehouse housewas wasvery oldbut but veryold bond

possessed a warmth that made me feel right at possessed a warmth that made me feel right at home.After Afterintroducing meto toseveral several people, introducingme people, home. Marcus led me into the where the backyard Marcus led me into the backyard where the rambunctious sounds of several drums being rambunctious sounds of several drums being pounded was also deafening. There were about pounded was also deafening. There were about 20neighborhood neighborhoodkids kidsorganized IleAiyeorganizedininananIle Aiye20 percussion ensemble. When I "kids" styled say styled percussion ensemble. When I say "kids" mean young young adults adultsaged 16-23. The The guy aged 16-23. guy I I mean leadingthis thisensemble ensemblelooked lookedexactly likeNBA NBA exactlylike leading star Penny Penny Hardaway, but with with dreadlocks. dreadlocks. Hardaway, but star They all greeted Marcus and took notice the They all greeted Marcus and took notice ofofthe tall that followed his move. stranger every tall stranger that followed his every move. Needless to say, my video camera was workNeedlesstosay,myvideocamerawasworkovertime that thatday. After aa few few greetings, day. After ing overtime greetings, ing became aware that I was an American. they they became aware that I was an American. AfteraaI I0-minute 0-minute lunch lunch break, break, Marcus Marcus organized the people people organized the After for a short session. I was but two of of prayer filming everything for a short prayer session. I was filming everything but two thegirls insistedthat thatI Ijoin handsininthe thegroup. feltgood joinhands group.ItItfelt goodtoto girlsinsisted the be accepted so quickly. After the short prayer, the group all sat beacceptedsoquickly.Aftertheshortprayer,thegroupallsat on thefloor floorininaacircle circleand andMarcus Marcusbegan talktotothe thegroup. group. begantototalk on the was not to understand what he good enough My Portuguese My Portuguese was not good enough to understand what he wassaying, but II managed to hear hear "Americano" "Americano" and and notice notice all all managed to saying, but was of the eyesturn turnininmy direction. mydirection. of the eyes of the were asking Marcus questions asking Marcus questions Many young people were Many of the young people when he turned to me and said, "Marques, will you when he tuned to me and said, "Marques, will you do do me me aa favor?" He that usually he teaches African history explained favor?" He explained that usually he teaches African history this session, session, but but their their questions questions about about their their AfricanAfricanduring this during American "brother" were so numerous that he wanted to American "brother" were so numerous that he wanted to know if! would in a short interview session. I was participate know if I would participate in a short interview session. I was to accept. my video video camera camera to to one one of ofthe the girls girls obliged to accept. II gave gave my obliged who filmed filmed the the entire entiresession session for forme. me. who As I sat in the middle of the circle, the people began asking As I sat in the middle of the circle, the people began asking all sorts of asked Marcus the in They questions questions. all sorts of questions. They asked Marcus the questions in Marcus in English for me, I answered interpreted Portuguese, Portuguese,MarcusinterpretedinEnglishforme,Ianswered in English, he translated back into Portuguese. They asked in English, he translated back into Portuguese. They asked questions about the difference between racism in America questions about the difference between racism in America and Brazil, what I thought about American Rap artists, AmeriandBrazil,what1thoughtaboutAmericanRapartists,American views of inter-racial marriages ... can views of inter-racial marriages. . . Later on that that night met Marcus's Marcus's girlfriend girlfriend and and also also met met night II met Later on Kirsten and her husband for the second time. You all may Kirsten and her husband for the second time. You all may know Kirsten Kirsten as as aa frequent contributing writer writer for for this this magamagafrequent contributing know zine. Kirsten is a wonderful person who is also fluent in zinc. Kirsten is a wonderful person who is also fluent in We all met at their friend Dani's We apartment. Portuguese. Portuguese. We all met at their friend Dani's apartment. We listened to some great Brazilian Brazilian music music and and ate ate aa pizza made pizza made listened to some great with cream cheese and scrambled eggs. Sounds but it strange, with cream cheese and scrambled eggs. Sounds strange, but it tasted I to mention that after two weeks I was great. forgot tasted great. I forgot to mention that after two weeks I was

thisshow, show, II saw saw aa peciallyatatthis pecially "Copy" of nearly every black

"copy" of nearly every black girl I I had had ever ever dated dated inin girl America. I I saw saw "copies" "copies" ofof America. myselfand andallall ofofmy friends myfriends myself back home. home. ItIt seemed seemed asas ifif back Salvador was was saying me saying toto me Salvador "welcome "welcomehome, home, Marques". Marques". wantedtotofilm filmthis thisevent event I Iwanted butwasn't wasn'tsure surehow howa amusimusibut cal group with CDs CDs on on the the group with cal market would would react react toto me me market filming their concert. The guy filmingtheirconcert.Theguy who led led the the drumming endrumming enwho sembleearlier earlierthat thatday daywas wasaa semble member ofofthe theIle Ile Aiye. Aiy~. He He member talkedtotohis hismusical musical director directorwho whotold told him him ititwas was OK. OK. Soon, Soon, talked "Penny" was leading me through thecrowd crowd offering "Penny" was leading me throughthe offering great great video of the crowd and the on footageof the crowd and the singer singeron stage. stage. video footage couldn'tbelieve believeit,it,atatone onepoint was onstage with the the pointII was onstage with II couldn't singer. II met met the the founder founder of of the the group and most most of of the the group and singer. members in in aabackstage area. At At the the gate, were also also backstage area. gate, people people were members outflyers candidatesininthe theupcoming city passingout flyers endorsing endorsingcandidates upcomingcity passing elections. II had seen photos ofcity council nominee nominee Olivia Olivia photos of city council elections. had seen Santanaall all over overtown townand andhere hereshe shewas wasinin the theflesh. flesh. This Thiswas was Santana willnever neverforget. day II will forget. aa day made several several new new friends friends while while II was was in in Salvador, Salvador, II made Pauloand andAdilson Adilson(why doeseveryone in Salvador Salvador everyonein includingPaulo (whydoes including seem to have the name da Silva, Santos or Rodrigues?). seem to have the name da Silva, Santos or Rodrigues?). II saw Adilson Adilson on on my first day in Salvador. Salvador. He He worked worked actually saw my first day in actually at the the tourist tourist agency where II exchanged my American American dollar dollar agency where exchanged my at for the Brazilian real. At this time in September, my dollar was fortheBrazilianreal.AtthistimeinSeptember,mydollarwas worth I.94 I. 94 real. real. worth Adilson knew knew II was Adilson was American American because, because, as as he he said, said, my my clothes had had hip-`hop hip-hop written clothes written all all over over them, them, and and he he loved loved hiphop. He He especially liked slain American rapper Tupac, or hop. "Tupacy" "Tupacy" as as he he called called him. him. Adilson was was 25 25 and Paulo was was 31. 31. Adilson Adilson was was also also an an Adilson and Paulo important part of my because he he represented the aspirapart of aspiramy trip trip because represented the important tions, confusion, hope and despair of the Afro-Brazilian male. tions,confusion,hopeanddespairoftheAfro-Brazilianmale. He worshipped America America and and dreamed dreamed of ofcoming to America America coming to He some day day and and enjoying life life in in ways he didn't think were were some didn't think possible in Brazil. When he of America, he thought thought possible in Brazil. When he thought of America, he thought of mansions, big cars, of cars, luxurious luxurious clothes clothes and andbeautiful beautifulwomen. women. American culture dominated dominated Brazil Brazil and and itit made made me me sick. sick. But But through television television and and movies, that is is all movies, that through all he he knew knew about about America. America.

II would explain to Adilson everyday that life in America is nowhere as simple as the media would have have him him believe. believe. Yes, there Yes, there are are many many successful successfulAmericans, Americans,but butthere thereisisalso also tremendous poverty in America, even though th.oughsome somelevels levelsof of

in America America would decent by poverty in by Brazilian poverty would be be considered considered decent Brazilian standards. No matter how much II tried tried to toexplain, explain, he hecouldn't couldn 't seem to grasp of poor in America. America. All All he seem grasp the idea of poor people people in wanted to do was come to America America with me. me. Then Then II explained explained of trying to come come to to America. America. to him the reality reality of Adilson did Grau (High (High School) School) and Adilson did not not graduate graduate 2nd 2 Grau earned two minimum salaries per month at his job job ($150). It would would be near impossible at this this point for him him to to come come to to impossible at point for America. An airplane airplane ticket ticket alone alone would would cost cost about about $1,000, $ 1,000, America. An he would would still still need need to to get get aa passport, passport, visa, visa,have havedouble doublethe the spending money equal American dollar rates) and and that money (to equal include lodging for a week or two. still doesn't doesn't include two. The The job lodging for market in America is highly highly competitive competitive for those with a collegedegree.ImaginesomeonetryingtosurviveinAmerica college degree. Imagine someone trying to survive in America from another country when they don't don't speck speak English and have little education. education. Many people wish to people wiish come to to America and just come just America and work for a few months at a place like place like McDonald's MCDonald's is very in very popular (which is (which popular in earn aa couple couple thouthouBrazil), earn sand dollars and come back home. The government of Brazil refuses to do anyanything about the desperation that is and poverty is a daily poverty that daily oflife many Brazilpart part of life for for many Brazilians. Adilson is the product of this society. It is difficult of to try to coerce someone into finishing school when when there are people people with college degrees that earn only 4 minimum minimum wages per month. Everyday month. Everyday II saw middle school aged aged kids walking around in in the walking around Pelourinho either begging for money or trying to sell something for money. Word on the of these kids use the money they get to buy street is that many of crack. I remember many of the the deep deep conversations conversations Danielle and She asked me II had had about about the differences between our people. She if people would look look down down on on her if she came came to America America wearing the plain clothes she wore that were considered normal in Salvador. I Ihated normal in Salvador, hatedtotoadmit admitit,it,but butmany manypeople peopleinin could cause cause damage America are very materialistic and this could damage to. the accustomed to this to. the psyche psyche of of someone someone who who was was not accustomed mentality. There were were times times when when we we went went places places and did mentality. There that Danielle Danielle felt felt the the need need to explain to me me that that she was explain to things things that In the best I could muster, Portuguese poor. poor. In the best Portuguese I could muster, II sincerely sincerely she was was giving me was was explained to her that the experience experience she giving me worth more than any material material possession. possession. We are are all all just just to survive survive in in aa world world full full of of inequality that we we inequality that trying to people trying people over. The value of of her her heart and and soul soul were were have no control over. and money had no no place in our our relationship. priceless and money had place in relationship. priceless

Discussing Race Danielle had taken me almost everywhere. Beaches (look out "sistas" in in America, America, you you have have competition), competition), shopping shopping malls, restaurants, restaurants, etc. etc. ItItseems seemsthat thateverywhere everywhereI went, I went, people people wanted to discuss the issue ofrace. of race. When When II visited visited Danielle's apartment, it was was aa full full house. house. Not Not only onlywere wereher hertwo twosisters, sisters, apartment, it brother and mother who she shared shared the the apartment apartment with with there, there, but also three friends. II met met her her friend friend who who II will will call call Alexis. Alexis. Alexis was tall, tall, pretty, pretty,had hadaalight lightskin skincomplexion complexionand andthick, thick, Alexis was straight, black hair. hair. straight, black When I asked Alexis Alexis why why she she didn't didn 'tconsider considerherself herself black, black, was because because she she didn't have she said it was have the the large derriere that large derriere was associated with most black black women. women. Danielle's Danielle's brother had a fixation with white and light-skinned black black women. Why? Dark-skinned Dark-skinned women women reminded reminded him too too much of his sisters. One of of Danielle's sisters, Fatima had had company, company, a a sisters. One sisters, F~tima German man twice her age who was staying German man with the the family staying with family while he was in in Brazil. Brazil. II have have no no problem problem with with people people of different races genuinely fall fall in in love, love, but butat at times times races who genuinely there are other reasons why people date outside of of their race. Fatima, also alsoa avery verypretty, pretty,chocolate chocolatecolored coloredgirl, girl, race. F~tima, wore a long curly weave because "black guys in Salvador like women only like women with with hair hair like like that". that", Another Danielle's sisters, sisters, Maria, Maria, commented commentedthat that Another of Danielle's if they mine, they they wouldn't wouldn't wear wear they had "good hair" like mine,

or weaves. weaves. Five and perms or oppression and perms Five hundred hundred years years of of oppression hair". black people are still saying "bad hair" and "good "good hair". X when you need him? Where is Malcolm Malcolm X him? Again, Again, this this whole scene scene seems very familiar. Fatima F~tima said said she she was current beau beau because becauseblack blackguys in Salvador Salvador dating her current guys in don't't seem don seem to to notice notice her. her. In In the the black black community community at at home, home, continue to point point to average black many black women continue men as well well as celebrities celebrities and athletes like like Tiger men and athletes Tiger Wood, Wood, Quincy Jones, Quincy Jones, Ving Ving Rhames, Rhames, Kobe Kobe Bryant Bryant and and Cuba Cuba Gooding, Jr as "sell-out" ``sell-out" brothers brothers who who would would do doanything anything to get aa white woman. woman. With With the indoctrination process going strong going strong in in Brazil, Brazil, "sistas" "sistas" in inAmerica Americacan't can't complain. complain. I experienced exper.ienced aa little little bit bit of of everything in my first everything in to Brazil. Brazil. II saw journey to journey saw many many Capoeira Capoeira demonstrations, demonstrations, visited the the famous famous slave slave dungeon dungeon beneath the the Mercado market, and even saw shopping market, and even saw a Candombl~ Candombl6 ritual. ritual. The The remember was was being in the street one one night strangest strangest thing thing II remember being in night on my way back to to the the hotel hotel from the the Pelourinho Pelourinho and being propositioned by one of several prostitutes walking the streets. propositionedbyoneofseveralprostituteswalkingthestreets. Well, maybe it it wasn't wasn't so so strange. strange. Like Like IIsaid, said,this thisseems seemsall alltoo too familiar. first of ofwhat what will will surely be This was a short shortjoumal my first ofmy surely be journalof have aa misconcepmany more visits to Brazil. Many pcople misconceppeople have about Brazil because of oflack lfmore tion al]out lack ofknowledge. of knowledge. If more people took the time to research research these these things, things, they they would would realize realizethat that the pcople of the African African Diaspora are the the same same everywhere. everywhere. people of Diaspora are Whether in Brazil, America, Haiti, Whether inJamaica, Jamaica,Cuba, Cuba, Brazil, America, Martinique, Haiti, Martinique, Puerto Rico or the Dominican Republic, we are are them them and and they they are are uS. us.

I could could write forever about my experiences, experiences, but if you you want to to know know more, more, or or share share

own experiences, your own experiences, feel your feel free free to to write write me meat: at: SDiritualth'ang72@hotmai].com Spiritualthang72@hotmail.com

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