Brazzil - Year 8 - Number 127 - July 1996

MUSIC: CENTENNIAL BRINGS BACK TIMELESS PIXINGUINHA

LANGUA FRENCH GETS THE PINK SLIP

ECONOMY: EASIER CREDIT OPENS: THE GATE OF CONSUMERIS

I. SER ALF

HAcA: LOWLY LIQUOR NOW GETS RESPECT

OLYMPIC

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News from Brazil is dead. Long live Brazzil.

Our need for a new identity is not new but it became more acute with the arrival of the Internet and our June '95 entry into the WEB as an on-line publication. We wanted a name that would be short, easy to remember and that at the same time would convey our interest for everything Brazilian.

8

Brazzil? We wanted a moniker with fizz, one that would have pizzazz and the rhythm ofjazz, a whizz-bang name with razzmatazz buzzing with energyl and good vibrations. We sought a title abuzz with evocation, musicality, as an instrument that could be played pizzicato and might at times be bedazzling.

Brazzil is our new name. That's the way the telephone will be answered from now on in our offices, the word to place on your envelope when sending us a letter, the name checks should be made to, that's our E-mail address: brazzil@brazzil.com and the address

CONTENTS

WON

http://www.brazzil.com http://home.earthlink.net/-brazzil where you will find us on the WEB. The complete address for the on-line version of Brazzil is http:// www.brazzil.com, but it's enough to write brazzil since Netscape will fill up the empty fields automatically.

In brief, we wanted a name with two zees that would be as melodious, tender, lovely and unforgettable as my six-year-old daughter Lazzuly.

R.M.

29

Cover

Short story

Brazil: doing better than you think

Machado de Assis's "0 Alienista" - Part III

16

35

Language

Travel

French gets dethroned

Minas's historical towns

19

Economy

Everyone is buying on credit

20

Cover by Aylan Mello

39

Music

DEPARTMENTS

Pixinguinha: still an inspiration

Olympics

The Brazilian invasion of Atlanta

23

Culture

Silvia's hard work of art

25

Behavior

Cachaca' s new status

6 Rapid inhas 14 Letters 46 The Cultural Pulse 47 Por ai 49 Classifieds 50 " U.S.A. Calendar 52 That's Brazilian

43

Music

Olodum, the sound of Bahia

54 Special

The media, the music and the arts TIME TO RENEW?

Sorry, we don't send Send mail to: P.O. Box 42536 - Los Angeles, CA 90050-053 • reminders. Look at the Ads/Editorial: (213) 255-8062 - Subscrip.: (213) 255-4953 label to know when your Fax: (213) 257-3487 - WEB page: http://www.brazzil.com subscription ends.

E-mail: brazzil@brazzitcom & brazilnews@aol.com Publisher and Editor: Rodney Mello / Editorial Assistant: Graciela Castellanos / Entertainment Editors: Sam & Harriet Robbins / Book Review: Bondo Wyszpolski / Music Editor: Bruce Gilman / Representatives: MIAMI : Nosso Guia (305) 972-3427 - WASHINGTON, DC: Wilson Velloso (Correspondent) (301) 585-6549 - BRAZIL: Celso Sawaia (011) 885-9288 EH mail: csawaiaŠbr.homeshopping.com.br BRAZZIL is published monthly by Brazzil -2039 N. Ave. 52, Los Angeles, CA, 90042-1024. Application to mail at periodicals postage rate is pending at Los Angeles, CA. Single copy sold for $2. One year subscription for 12 issues is $3 (three dollars) in the U.S., $15 in Canada and Mexico, and $18 (surface mail) in all other countries. No back issues sold. Allow 5 to 7 weeks to receive your first issue. You may quote from or reprint any of the contents with proper copyright credit. Editorial submissions are welcome. Include a SASE (self addressed and stamped envelope) if you want your material mailed back. Brazzi/ assumes no responsibility for any claims made by its advertisers.

POST MASTER : Please, send address changes to: BRAZZIL - P.O. Bo3 42536 - Los Angeles, CA - 90050-0536 BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

5

Navolta Pereira (Going Coming Returning Pereira). t Natal Carnaval, Virgula Comma), arid one unforgettable: lAtimo Frazer do Casal Almeida (Last Pleasure of the Couple ./ Almeida).

Who are they gonna call?

Sao Paulo's city council looking for a paranormal to help the legislators find ou about alleged ghosts who have been spooking the downtown Camara Municipal building. For years now cleaning workers have complained of screams and sounds of dragging chains and the appearance of dead people in the elevators during the night. The stories gained a fresh credibility since councilman Faria Lima, a respected legislator, revealed his own encounter with the unknown a night he stayed until midnight in the building for some overtime. He swears that he heard people disputing in a strange language in a room next to his own cabinet. When he summoned the security personnel, however, they couldn't find anyone. Faria Lima himself had accused the workers of wild imagination. "Now. I am not sure anymore," he said.

Barring a better explanation, ghost experts credit the phenomenon to the fact that the building was erected in a place that once housed slaves many of whom were flogged to death. sj

Name calling "How not to call your child'? would be an appropriate name for a still-untitled book authored by anthropologist Mario Souto Maior, 76, from the state of Pernambuco. The volume to be published in October promises to bring more than 2,000 names from simply funny to outrageously embarrassing (at least for those so named). The names were culled from phone books, news stories and lists published by newspapers. Among the precious findings there are names such as Naida Navinda

eartrnender

People

The art of unveiling.'

A Cannes Film Festival without a scandal and without starlets doing everything to show off is something else. The 49th edition of the celebrated movie feast wasn't the exception especially because together with the traditional film festival there was a porno movie's fair at the French resort. As expected, Italian porno prima donna Cicciolina was there.

An unknown Brazilian young lady calling herself simply Anna stole the spotlight exposing all of herself to the voracious cameras of dozens of obliging paparazzi. Another Brazilian exhibitionist, Lilian Ramos, has become a TV entertainer and celebrity in Italy after having appeared, during Carnaval, close to former president hamar Franco, flashing to hungry satyr photo journalists her pantyless privies jut covered by a minuscule T-shirt. mg

No baby talk Febem, the Fundacao para o Bem-Estar do Menor (Foundation for the Well-Being of Minors) is a small city with close to 3,000 children spread through its three main institutions.

In these reformatories children have developed their own language with many terms to paint the more sordid side of life.

Acochar — to embrace Bagulho — drug or a robbery's spoils Banca — gang Barraco — room Bobo — (dunce) clock Boi — (ox) bandit Bronca — crime Cao-cao — lie Chico doce—(sweet Chico) nightstick Coro — police district Coruja — (owl) briefs Desandar — to become gay Estar Ben Johnson — to be

on drugs

Fazer — (to do) to steal Goma — house Grinfa — syringe Jega — bed Jumbo — personal bag Lady — woman Ligar-se no que pira— to know what's happening Mocada — homosexuals Pegar o bonde — (to take the' streetcar) to be transferred Truta — buddy Xerife — the leader

Randas Batista, a previously unknown surgeon from Campina Grande do Sul in the state of Parana, is becoming a household name throughout the world. The ew York Tzmes in its June14 edition talked about his work as a revolution in heart surgery. Dr. Batista was also inter% iewed by arbara Walters in the program 20/20 and his accomplishment was cited by magazine Newsweek on ts June 24th edition. What he Brazilian physician has done in the last two years in a surgery that he calls entriculoplastia redtaora.

The technique, which has been applied by him with success to 350 patients, consists in the cut of a piece of the left ventricle, the heart's main pumping chamber. The treatment is indicated for people with circulatory problems caused by heart dilatation. Up to know the only solution was a heart transplant. Another big plus for the new treatment is the price: a transplant can cost as much as $50,000 while Dr. Batista's technique costs a ktt ittf mere $2,000.

A drink and a byte Ipanema, the celebrated Rio's neighborhood that gave us the song of the girl of the same name and the string bikini, is now in the pole position on the information superhighway.

The InternetBar Deli has become the first Brazilian bar to offer on its menu connections to the Internet

BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

Imium and the WEB.If the idea ".works the I)rojeCt should clients hsieseerve aficlrynecimost l*irYifi:g shbneanvconen:hleenelantifra v ue nprazil who foundsa to cheaper way to connect to friends and relatives in their comitri charg . es. The bar es 10 for a h Connection. A half-born call for the same time -me time f art S40 t cost $ anywhere would 6° l'h'''''er yet,rom'' ° promotions such asetscape sandwich a hour (roast /:/eet.) Fltis tileitalfnere $1 at connection cost c.

For th0se willing to reach the Iparietna bar their site address is: httP .// netbar.riosoft.so . fteic.hr i)01 can send E-mail to: r y1 bj riosoft.softex b

Stolen Oscar It was Gazicho (from Rio Grande do Sul) Marco Antonio de Avila who found out that the real Oscar winner for best sound track this year should be Italian Sergio Endrigo and not Argentinean Luis Enrique 'lacalov.Baca lov was . for .e awarded the prize Nout song "Nelle from the film II Postino Mailman) but the (The M .m wasn't w his. The music plagiarism is was revealed b),' the Italian daily 11 Message,. shop Avila, recording° after A r, saw gnaieze'dathe he film and recoow 0 La Voce D soeng,from 11 U mo an gn LP from 975. In °rite the 13 m 1ian showed 11' t razii• o Giancarlo Dotto t ewho s°11g took the case td ma maestro Mario Bortolotto. He ^ b un' eight identical fo measures just at the introduction of the iiielod Six would be enough to E chara.cterifze plagiarism. ndrigo finally went t the movie and he cotiltions'e believe what his former Bacillov, had done. As for Avila he declared, .,,Eladrigo has always been an idol to me he,,has also become a fr` d " BRAZZIL -JULY 1996

Chronicle of a death • foretold ,Theicircumstances surOolimding the death of Paulo Cesar Farias, 50, the only character ever condemned by the Brazilian justice in a play absurd that provoked the impeachment of president Fernando Collor de Mello, can rival the plots by the most seasoned authors of fantastic re•alism novels.

PC Pallas, who •had regained his freedom after a two-year stint in rison for his role4n Collorgate, was planning to open his o newspaper and was scheduled to soon testify in court- abo t corruption during the Collor administration.

In less than one week PC's story had chan ed from the deadly result of a romantic tryst turned sour into intriguing and mysterious scheme that included, spies, tress and maybe political motivation to silence for ever a man ho knew too much for his own good. Rotund PC, who had be ome Brazil's butt of jokes with his bald bead and a comic ustache, was killed in his bedroom at his beachfront house in acei6, state of Alagoas.

The murder happened June 23, a Sunday in mg. A few hours later, Alagoas Justice secretary Rubens nintela announced that the crime had been committed by Farias's girlfriend, Suzana Marcolino da Silva, 28, who after having killed the lover turned the gun against herself.

A few days later the Federal Police took over the case, and a version circulated by weekly newsmagazine /sto E cited witnesses guaranteeing that Suzana had been killed by one of the bodyguards who always accompany Farias. Some people' believe in a theory that the crime was committed by hit men probably paid by former President Collor de Mello. Jeffrey Hoff, an American historian who has been studying the PC case for four years, thinks that this death is part of a bigger plot to eliminate all of those who know too much about Collorgate.

According to another version he was eliminated by a Cuban hitman hired by a group of businessmen because he refused to return the money received from these people. Suzana killed only because she was on thewrong wron place at the wrong time. Other theories see the crime as a f ily feud and there is also the version in which Suzana is seen as the hired pinto do PC in.

Folios was soafraid of being killed that he wouldn't go any place without his bodyguards and kept his bullet-proof jacket even at the beach. As it happens with celebrices who die in Brazil the obituary doesn't seem quite complete efore there is , a couple of jokes about the deceased. PC's bod wasn't quite cold yet when the jokers started their act. Cartoonist • Ziraldo, a guest on "Jo -, Soares Onze e Meia," Bra' zil' s mostpopular nightly TV talk show, recalled a joke he had heard About PC and Dinho, the leader of a very . popular band who recently . died in' a, plane crash: "Do you know what Dinho told PC when he got to heaven? . Nothing. PC didn't go to heaven."

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do thee fact fact hat doesn't have snow, tsail .„ ve one of the b' '-in Br rid,secom world's biggest Profest Iggesa g top-notch skiers.CP13Phrral skier good rtatia' Blanco a1a s.aat the ehattek „ io°n h t osso ,le:r:::' n,„th 409iig Olympics , itt 1,W agane a : Some rtil''''' s N Japan. ,oar ome best instructors While , skyalso , Colorado Braz-'in''' only a ' 4c went ,, zili°.:;:,,' thiow. resorts slippery'1 n'itts 4'' foail3nc.dresoaf°:now 141.

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8

BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

F

rench chronicler Auguste de SaintHilaire didn't like at all what he saw in the south of Brazil while traveling in the area at the beginning of the nineteen century. "It's a town of prostitutes and thieves," he wrote about a little place known as Vila Nossa Senhora da Luz dos Pinhais.

The once despised village has changed its name to Curitiba and has become an appealing post-card for the best that Brazil has to offer. The changes implemented by the city are admired across the globe and administrators from around the world including those from New York have traveled to the capital of the state of Parana to see what makes it tick.

Curitiba is the sixth biggest Brazilian capital.

Frequently, the increase of population makes life harder and sometimes unbearable for the people living in most urban areas, but in Curitiba the opposite has taken place. In 1970 the city had half a million souls. Today, with 1.6 million inhabitants, the region has almost a disproportionate amount of green area per capita, better public transportation, less traffic jams, less pollution, exceptional options for leisure and greater job opportunities. Its residents can enjoy more than 1,000 public squares, 16 large parks, more than 150 libraries, close to 50 art galleries, 45 museums and 56 m2 of green area for each resident, more than three times the size recommended by the World Health Organization. It not only has the best public transportation system in Brazil and in the world, but it also holds the lowest crime rate of any Brazilian big city.

In 1992, Albert Appleton, who was then responsible for New York's environmental protection department, commented, "If there is a model city for the future, this city will have to do what Curitiba is doing now." After visiting the city, Toronto's former mayor, Arthur Eggleton, observed, "Curitiba is one the most pleasant cities I've seen in any part of the world." In an interview with The Wall Street Journal, Michael Cohen, World Bank's head of the Urban Development Department, didn't mask his enthusiasm after visiting Curitiba: "This is a model city for the First World not only for the Third."

Curitiba is just one example of a Brazil that has worked out. Despite the country's worldwide bad image constituted of violence, misery and corruption, Brazil has experienced progress beyond that which can be measured by dollars, roads, factories, and pollution. The nation also got better. Even in the 80's, the so-called lost-decade, the quality of life improved in Brazil. It was during this period that illiteracy was almost cut in half from 20% in 1980 to a little more than 11% in 1993.

A just-released UN report reveals that Brazil is no longer a country divided into two worlds: one small and very wealthy and the other extremely poor. Most interestingly the study shows that 72.6 million Brazilians, basically half of the population, maintain a first-world standard of life. Another 25.4 million constitute a lower middle class on its way to prosperity. As for the poor, their numbers BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

are still huge, 48.9 million, and their conditions are worse than that of other poor people in countries such as Mexico and Argentina.

Brazil has been called -Belindia," a fusion of the words Belgium and India, which implies the contrast between wealth and poverty in the country. Now, according to the new report, a more appropriate denomination would be "Belbulindia," in which 'bur stands for Bulgaria, an ex-Communist country undergoing a rapid process of development. The 185-page research, which lasted a year and a half, talks about a Brazilian "golden age," which, theoretically, is just starting.

The study is based on Human Development Index (HDI) which set Canada in 5th in the world, and the US in 19th. The UN index grades from 0 to 1 (Niger being the last on the rank with 0.116 and Japan, the first, 0.996) and has been used since 1990. It measures life expectancy, adult literacy and Gross National Product per capita. The state of Rio Grande do Sul appears in best shape with a living standard very close to that of Belgium which has a HDI of 0.966 and holds 15th place. The Brazilian India encompasses the nine states of the Northeastern region of the country, plus Acre and Para. In average, Brazil's HDI is 0.797 setting it in 63rd place, similar to most East European countries: Since 1980 the number of Brazilians benefiting from running water and public sewage increased from 50% to 75% of the population. Similarly those accessing electrical power at home expanded from 66% in 1980 to 90% in 1993.

Poverty is still a serious problem and it is believed that clot,e to 17 million Brazilians barely earn enough money to make ends meet, living just above the starvation line. There is also a serious need for over 5 million houses to shelter the homeless. On the other hand, however, Brazil's population isn't growing at a 3% annual rate anymore.

This growth has been cut in half and today is no more than 1.4% a year. While the average childbearing was about six children per woman between 1940 and 1960, it has dropped to a more controllable average of 2.5. All of this leads us to believe that the existing annual per capita income of $3,544 will increase its value much faster in the present rate of development.

The country is also coming of age politically.

Democracy seems to be thriving. Fifty years ago only 16% of the population could vote. This number has inflated to 50% in the most recent presidential election held in 1994. Brazilians themselves seem much happier with their country now that inflation has been reduced in the last two years from around 50% a month to a monthly rate of less than 2%. Asked if they wanted to leave the country in 1992, more than 50% answered positively. The majority now, according to a Vox Populi poll said no and 84% confided that they were proud to be Brazilian.

Going back to Brazil's model city of Curitiba, the green area there grew 100 times in the last 20 years. More than 4% of the city's land is occupied by greenery today. This proliferation of forestation 9

was, in great part, a response to a problem ineffectively tackled by previous administrations: the floods. Instead of building channels, the traditional solution to this problem in most cities throughout the world, Curitiba's administrators opted for the formation of lakes which were in turn populated with ducks and transformed into parks with plenty of trees planted around them. Floods are now history, and the city gained a series of new leisure areas. ecycling has also reached a high in Curitiba. While cities like Montreal in Canada recycles 10% of its trash, likewise in the US, the capital of Parana has a recycling rate of 95%. It has become the world's recycling capital through its 'Garbage That Is Not Garbage program.' Ten percent of Curitiba's population still live in favelas, but even the shanty towns have a thriving recycling program known as 'green exchange.' Items such as plastic, paper and glass can be traded for food, toys, books and school material.

There are more than 20,000 families who participate in this program. The effort has also improved trash removal from the streets, which in turn helps the drainage of water, avoiding city floods. Another benefit from this program is the support it has given to the fight against disease spread by rat waste.

One of the latest inventions from the very creative minds of Curitiba's administrators are the Vilas de Oficios (Jobs' Villages), an ambitious idea which hopes to hit two targets simultaneously: providing job and residency. Initiated a little over a year ago, the Vilas de Oficio integrate in the same , area both house and workshop. These are commercial installations set up close to residential buildings and other areas with considerable pedestrian traffic, planned and managed by Curitiba's Companhia de Habitacdo Popular (Cohab).

A group of experts, including social workers, decide which business should be installed in each area and which family qualifies to reside in the space. Various types of training are available within these locations, as well to those candidates who are

R

10

eligible. Each hub of the Vila de Oficios holds a minimum of six, maximum of 31 units. Currently there are eight hubs and this number should expand to 15 by the end of the year.

Financing for this project is done by Cohab itself, with parcel payments of up to 20 years. The monthly installment is around $150, reduced by 50% in the first two years of the new business. The applicants are simple people like bicycle repairman Wilson Bueno de Morais who after four months at Bairro Novo, the place of his Vila de (Mei°, couldn't be more enthusiastic. In an interview with daily newspaper 0 Estado de Silo Paulo he declared, "Overnight I've become an entrepreneur.

This is the best business spot I've ever had. Here, the person comes to cut his hair, leaves the bicycle to be fixed and still eats a snack."

Morais, who has a wife and two kids, used to sell bicycle parts from door to door. At the new place business picked up so quickly that he was forced to immediately hire an aid as well as a servant to help his wife Rita with the house chores.

Rita herself takes over the bicycle repair shop when her husband has to go out to purchase parts.

Curitiba is also the city of Rua 24 Horas (24 Hour Street), a 120-meter thoroughfare covered with glass in which three dozen stores, including a bookstore, a restaurant, a flower shop and government bureau never close. Known also as Citizenship Streets these areas allow people to do a variety of things like send a letter, open a checking account, pay a utility bill, get a marriage license, file a police report or take a class.

A great deal of merit for the latter days of Curitiba goes to Jayme Lerner, an architect who was chosen to be mayor of the city during the military regime, when mayors of towns considered important for national security, were not elected but chosen by state governors. In this particular case, Parana's governor was looking for a candidate who wouldn't cast a shadow over his own office Over the three terms in which he occupied this position Lerner opened exclusive roads for buses, closed downtown to car traffic and planted thousands of trees. He talked about his philosophy of work in an interview with weekly newsmagazine Veja: "Curitiba's secret is simplicity. The cities of the future will have little to do with Flash Gordon's movies. We have to abandon grandiose solutions."

There were subways or freeways during his tenure.

Lerner has become a worldwide celebrity among urbanists. In 1990, the United Nations awarded him for his Environment Program. Two years later, Washington DC's International Institute for Energy Conservation again honored him with yet another prize, this time because of the fuel resources saved in public transportation, 25% more than cities of the same size all over the world.

One of Lerner's most celebrated creations, the ligeirinho bus (little fast one) was even tested in New York. The system is used by 75% of the population (compare this to Rio — 57% — and Sao Paulo — 45%) and comprises 500 km. of lines. It works just as fast as the subway, yet costs 20 times BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

less to build. People enter the buses through tubular entrances where electronic machines collect the fare. The system proved to be so efficient that 30% of the estimated 500,000 private cars are left home on weekdays. n the counter-current of the philosophy behind the creation of Brasilia, a city entirely divided into areas of interest — shopping zone, residency zone, entertainment zones and school zones — Curitiba mixes a little of everything in each area. Even the standard housing projects were abolished. When housing units are built together they are all different one from the other.

All of this has made the Curitibano a very proud citizen. In a recent poll asked if he would like to move to another city 99% of them responded with a, "no way, under no circumstance." The same question posed to a New York resident revealed that 60% of them wanted to leave town. Curitiba also has become a testing ground for new drama performances. There, almost 5% of the population better off economically (classes A and B, according to the Brazilian classification) regularly attend the theater. That is twice the rate of other areas in the country.

Lerner offers the recipe for those willing to replicate his achievements: "It's not enough to only change downtown's façade. You have to stimulate activities and services which draw people to the region." In the United States, cities like Los Angeles were able to create a new downtown, but this is a space that is entirely abandoned as soon as the offices close for the day. Instead of bringing banks and offices Curitiba encouraged bars, restaurants, movie houses, libraries and theaters to open shop there. And made it attractive for people to live close to all this action.

O

OTHER EXPERIMENTS During the recent Istambul's Habitat 2, an urbanization project for a favela (shanty town) in Diadema was presented as a practical solution for the betterment of living conditions in deteriorating areas.

Diadema, a heavily industrialized town on the outskirts of sao Paulo with approximately 320,000 residents, has set the standard for solving social problems of those living under poverty level. After 14 years under a PT (Partido dos Trabalhadores — Workers' Party) administration the town substantially improved its educational system. Its medical assistance, frequently compared to that of developed countries, draw people from neighboring cities who lie about their address just to be treated in Diadema.

Known by the pompous name of Urbanization Project: a Process of Citizenry Construction, the Diadema plan, has urbanized 88 of the 192 existing favelas in the last four years. City Hall is investing $10 million a year in housing, that is 6% of its budget, Despite all this effort there are still 20,000 families who live in shanties. There is hope, however, since the Conselho Municipal de Habitacao BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

..and the 24 hour Street.

(Municipal Council for Housing) continues to analyze new proposals presented by the favelados themselves, who are represented by the association of residents. The consulting group has a two-year mandate and is formed by four delegates from City Hall, one from City Council plus five elected representatives who belong to popular associations.

The construction is made utilizing the so-called mutirdo system in which neighbors get together to build new houses. This method allows a 30% price reduction when compared to an outside contractor.

Right now there are more than 300 families in temporary shelters waiting for the Jupiter Housing unit to be concluded. There will be sufficient apartments to accommodate that number. In the last two years Diadema has also started a program to canalize heavily polluted water streams which had become a serious sanitary problem.

Helped by the NGO (Non-Governmental Organization) Associacao Comunitaria Monte Azul, the Jardim Monte Azulfavela in the south area of Sao Paulo, not far from Diadema, has become a role model in dealing with lack of resources successfully . The residents themselves have created and manage a theater for 150 people, a recycled paper workshop, a bakery, a medical clinic, and seven child-care facilities with a maximum of 20 children per unit, and also a number of youth centers.

"The secret here is honesty with the money they get," said i an interview with daily Folha de Scio Paulo German art teacher Renate Keller Ignacio, 11

who teaches at Monte Azul. "That's what makes even have access to the 'luxuries' of other middle donors trust our work." More than 80% of the class nationals from wealthier neighborhoods like monthly private donations â&#x20AC;&#x201D; around $12,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a car, telephone lines, or a satellite dish. For others, come from Germany. Other contributors are Brahowever, water and electricity haven't arrived yet. zilian associations and Sao Paulo's city hall. Last In Porto Alegre, capital of Rio Grande do Sul, February, for example, the Monte Azul Associa98% of the population have tap water at home. tion received a little over $93,000 but spent less Public sewage, however, exists only in 75% of the than $85,000. houses, with current effort towards raising this rate The city of Sao Paulo is developing a controto 85% by the end of the year. For six years now versial program of desfavelizaccio known as quality of life has been improving in the city. Most Cingapura (for the city of Singapore where the people have credited these changes to the so-called practice was started) which urbanizes the same participatory budget, a democratic way of deciding area where the favelas are now established, buildwhere the resources should be applied, a strategy ing housing units there. Since Decreated by former mayor Olivio cember 1,904 units have been deDutra and kept by his successor livered. Another 7,875 are being Tarso Genro.

In Sao Paulo built in 54 differentfavelas. When Porto Alegre was divided into moving to the new apartments the 16 regions. Representatives of these residents of a former favelados agree to pay $58 areas get together twice a month to a month for the next 20 years. favela have study proposals and suggest meaAll this work, however, will sures. While the budget used to created and not mean more than a little dent in draw 1,000 people in 1990, today the problem of housing, since it is these meetings attract more than Manage a estimated that in the city of Sao 14,000 citizens. They are the ones Paulo alone 1.9 million people theater for 150 who elected the 86 members of the currently live in favelas or other Participatory Budget Council. people, a substandard housing units, withThanks to this system, 600 miles of out running water or sewer. The pluvial sewers have been built in recycled paper Cingapura project has been a fereight years. Combined, all other tile ground for experiments. In the workshop, a administrations prior, had conNorth Zone's Zachi Narchifavela, structed no more than 700 miles. bakery, a for example, one of the buildings All over the country there are is being heated by a solar energy medical clinic, smaller and bigger miracles. See system. This should lower by half the city of Brusque, in Santa and seven the utility bill that sometimes costs Catarina, for example, which was twice the apartment's monthly inundergoing an economic boom child-care stallment. while the country was going through In Rio, the favela problem was the motions of a recession during nonexistent until 1895. As of that the 80s. It was during this period point, development of shanty towns grew rapidly. that many nouveaux riches appeared mostly through First it was the Morro da Previdencia favela in franchises like Colcci, the biggest apparel franchisor downtown. In 1920, there were 25 of these shanty in the country with more than 200 franchisees. This towns and starting in the 50s, 10 new ones were in turn created jobs which drew at least 10,000 being formed annually. From 1981 to 1990, for people from all over the country. example, 102 new favelas sprung around Rio conPelotas, with 300,000 residents the third most tributing to the total of 570 today. populated city in Rio Grande do Sul has solved In 1991, according to the Census, 941,750 most of its problems by dismissing federal and people (17% of Rio's population) lived in Rio's state programs and assuming the tasks. While people favelas. Since 1993, however, the number of shanin the bigger cities like Sao Paulo have to wait two ties has been decreasing. Twenty three of them are years to get a new telephone line, in Pelotas the in the process of being removed. And 91 others procedure doesn't take more than five days. And should be converted into neighborhoods with all there is no place in Brazil where telephones work public services by the end of 1999 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a move that better. should benefit 610 thousand people.

Another town from Rio Grande do Sul has Rio is spending $670 million on this project solved the problem of unemployment. Even in the (60% from the Interamerican Bank for Developworst of times its 20 shoe factories and agroment and 40% from city hall). The Favela-Bairro industries gave jobs to any one of the 20,000 project alone, coordinated by the Rio's Housing residents able and willing to work. Their yearly per Department, consumes $620 million. It's a giant capita income has jumped to $8,750. And illitereffort. The Jacarezinho favela, for example, has ates are a rarity now. The worst salary in City Hall more than 35,000 residents. The process to inteare those of the trash collectors: $300. Three times grate the city can be very lengthy. Favela Rocinha the minimum wage in other regions of Brazil. has been undergoing changes since 1975. Today it Almost everything here is municipal: the has a bank, two post offices, and 2,000 shops some schools, the health care, the transportation, the which even accept credit cards. Some residents water and sewage service. The city offers one ofthe 12 BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

cheapest waters in the country and 99% of the population is benefited by it.

Still in Rio Grande do Sul, a city that seems transplanted from Europe, Teutonia, is a first world town in a third world country. Here illiteracy and unemployment are zero, there is a car for every three people, infant mortality (2 for 1,000 children up to one year) is 22 times lower than the Brazilian average. The mayor used to complain about the lack of what to do, "The problems we had were all solved and there was very little left for me to accomplish." Here is the paradise of mini-farms and the help-each-other mentality. Most properties have between two and six hectares and are owned by families who produce milk, a staple of the local economy. The residents, however, don't like to boast about their achievements. They are afraid people will start flocking there, destroying their little Garden of Eden.

In another front, Petrolina in the Pernambuco backlands together with Juazeiro in Bahia, have transformed a desert into blooming fields. Through bombs and channels they transport water from the So Francico river, 30 miles inland. The land has become fertile ground and today they export mangos, melons, grapes and acerolas to Europe and the United States. While the average vineyard in the South produces 16 tons per hectare a year, in Juazeiro where there's always sun, this amount jumps to 50 tons. Petrolina has also become a model city with sewers in 75% of the houses compared to the average 16% in that region and its

teachers ma e close to $400 a month, an exceptional numb r when compared to the less than $20 that some te chers receive in the state of Ceara, for example.

Even soiae of the poorest states in Brazil are finding solutions that bode well for the future.

Ceara, the fifth poorest state in the country, has been awarded international prizes for dealing with child mortality and public health. The state has looked for inspiration in China and created an army of more than 7,000 health agents who go from house to house teaching some elementary lesson of hygiene and nutrition.

Despite being the second poorest state, Paraiba has created an education program that virtually guarantees school for every school-age child. Besides that, the program also gives food, books, school material and clothes to these children. In Piaui, the poorest of all states, with an annual per capita income of $600, one third of the Brazilian average, an agriculture program has been a success drawing farmers from other states. The solution was to open roads, install infrastructure and give fiscal incentives to producers willing to plant, mostly soy bean, in the area. While in the South one hectare of land costs $4,000 here they are available for between $100 to $500. The time of working in exchange f r food has ended. Now specialized workers, li e tractor operators, don't make less than $200. P revolution for this region where 83% of the population has to make ends meet with $50 • or less a month.

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13

WICKED AND SHAMEFUL Congratulations on your article in the June issue concerning sex, marriage and prostitution including names of "workers", their qualifications, fees charged and descriptions of "services rendered". After reading it a few more times, I'll take it behind the barn and pass it on to my buddies!

Why is it when readers write decent letters to you asking specific questions or, more importantly, expressing a sincere desire to communicate with others interested in Brazil and its culture you never, ever, respond or print the writer's address?

Yet in the aforementioned piece publish names, addresses, phone numbers and, in at least one case, step-by-step directions on finding a popular place of "employment"? Shame on you.

PS: Ainda assim adoro sua revista. (I spite of that I still adore your magazine.)

Jim Graham Box 831 Chewelah, Washington 99108

THE DEBATE GOES ON I would like to comment on the article

by Iara Morton (No way! May '96). I did notread Ms. Bahiana's bookAmerica de A a Z, except for the excerpts that you published. I had similar experiences in my 28 years living in the US. Does Ms. Morton know that some people living in thefavelas in Brazil are happier than some people living in Newport Beach or Beverly Hills?

No, I don't live in some ghetto in the US. I have lived most of the time in rich folks' neighborhoods, but I prefer to associate myself with the simple people, which usually are nicer. A Ph.D. does not change a person. I do know some illiterate people in Brazil who are very knowledgeable and more pleasant to talk to than some Ph.Ds. I don't know of any Brazilian who expects any privileges here. We, at least the ones I know, like to be treated as equal.

Open boarders to immigrants? Ha, ha, ha!

Maybe Ms. Morton does not watch the news. Do you want to enter the US legally? Go back to your country, apply, then wait forever.

I wonder what Ms. Morton is doing to help improve life for the people in Brazil?

She probably will never return. But if she does, I bet she will join the very corrupt government in that country, which oppresses the people. My conclusion is that Ms. Morton is an "Americanized clown".

I do know a few other like her. Not all are Brazilians.

Geoniora G. Oliveira Fountain Valley, California

THE NITTY-GRITTY

FOREIGN CORRESPONDENT

Over the past two years that I have received your magazine, I have very much appreciated the wide diversity of subjects your articles have covered, the discussion they've generated in your letter section and the variety of viewpoints represented.

For me, the May '96's issue (on the military dictatorship and its far reaching and lasting effects on millions of people) helped deromanticize much of the information I had gotten so far about different well-known Brasileiros going into exile. I didn't have concrete facts about everyday people, 'disappeared' people. torture, etc... I think it's all very important to understand and learn about. Please renew my subscription.

Cheryl Harrison Seattle, Washington

I'd like to introduce myself. Tam working in the Information and Decision Support Center in Egypt and I am willing to send articles to your magazine.

Basem Refaat Egypt - on the Internet

THE DEPTH AND THE LIGHTNESS I truly love the magazine's coverage of issues interesting and humorous and human. I also love when you include recipes — simple, uncomplicated (oxymoron) that I can prepare for my family and friends.

I discovered your magazine in a Brazilian restaurant in Los Angeles where the food and the people were real, during the World Cup. Oh, what a fabulous time! What sweet love between people. I'll never forget! Keep up the good work.

PS: I think Twill wear my soccer T-shirt today. This letter inspired me.

Dolores Del-Rio Davis El Paso, Texas

BUGGING LABEL Oops! I almost forgot to renev my subscription. Glad you keep telling me right on the front cover, when to renew. Thanks a lot for that. Keep up the good work. Believe me.

I can't survive without reading Brazzil.

Otto Raymond Newark, New Jersey

FOREIGN CORRESPONDENT II I loved your magazine and homepage.

I'm a Brazilian journalist with a column on the Internet Site of Agencia Estado, the leading newswire service in Brazil. I would like to write as a freelancer to Brazzil. I have some experience writing in English about businesses.

Rene Sao Paulo, Brazil - on the Internet

LOST IN FRANCE I'm a Portuguese in France and I want to try to contact some people of my family in Brazil, but I don't know how lean do it.

I would appreciate any information like a list of addresses or even a telephone book.

Jotio Braz Halluin, France jbraz@nordmail.nordnet.fr

TRADING INFO I am a reporter for a small newspaper in Milwaukee. Tecumseh Products Co, a company handling contaminated waste in my area, has moved to SI) Carlos, Brazil, after being forbidden to use its equipment here. I would like to touch base with a Brazilian reporter, environmentalist, or government official to learn more or even trade information. This could have an impact on the quality of a community's drinking water in Brazil, so it is important.

Rob Golub Cedarburg, Wisconsin robvantage@aol. corn

SEND IT IN

CRIPPLED TUNE

I just wrote a short story about my infant days in Manhattan as a Brazilian girl. I wonder if you would be interested. I talks about what it was like to live on the upper east side in the early seventies, showing the contrast between Rio and Manhattan.

Karen Shishiptorova Danbury, Connecticut

Hey, who translated the Carmen Miranda's song "Disseram que eu voltei americanizada"? They mutilated the poor song. I love your articles, but you have to get a better translator. If it's not too big I will translate for you for free. Abracos.

Nana nhowton@,academic.csubak.edu

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After being for generations the second language de rigueur for well-bred Brazilians, French has given place to English. Now, in another debacle for the tongue of Descartes and Voltaire, French is not required anymore from those willing to start a diplomatic career.

WILSON VELLOSO Another Brazilian tradition bit the dust: French is no longer a compulsory language in the tough entrance examination at the Itamaraty — a tradition laden and highly rated finishing academy for career diplomats.

The decision does not mean, of course, that French will be altogether shunned. Yet, it is a sad footnote in a development recognizing that money and business are now more important than niceties, subtleties, delicacies, refinements.

Educated Brazilians of my generation — and of many others before ours — must feel a sense of loss, almost like the passing of an old friend. Or at least like the death of a beloved pet. True, such a development was in the cards. In truth, it took longer to come about than many of us feared. Since classical Greek and German were dropped from the senior high school curriculum in the early forties, we knew that Latin would be next. Then the Roman Catholic church, in her eagerness to meet the masses at their own level, discarded all the mystery of its rituals by going folksy and giving Latin its coup de grace.

In Brazil, educational reformers decreed a "mission impossible" the so-called simplification of the Portuguese spelling. Thus an ancient, respected, and respectable lingo, older than Spanish in its separate evolution, morphology, and grammar was to become phonetic. Any term judged foreign was supposed to shed the spelling complications of the source language and be Brazilianized. Even if it meant using a forceps, a sledge hammer, a crowbar, a triphammer, a bulldozer, or all five together. It spawned innumerable words and proper names and a mass display of nationwide ignorance.

So the current fashion is to pretend that Brazilians — "born great polyglots" even those who can hardly read — are entitled to invent new spellings for old words. Words whose pronunciation they have no idea of. Unfortunately, the Brazilian Academy of Letters is a lethargic bunch of superannuated authors. Not at all an ultimate authority on language, as are the Real Academia of Spain, or l'Academie Francaise. So current Brazilian spellings not only look dumb. They generated an attitude of contempt for logic, consistency, etymology, historical grammar, and of respect 16 BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

for other people's languages. It made any show of linguistic wisdom a mark of obsolescence, obduracy, elitism, plutocracy and only God knows what else.

So we now have a thoroughly sub-suburban looking "Nova Iorque," while York is written as before. Traditional Portuguese forms for Moscow, Singapore, Antwerp have been reinvented as Moscou (taken from the French form and sounding "moscoo," Cingapura (an excruciating stupidity) and Antuerpia.

It may be argued, to a degree of truth, that too many French words were already used in Brazil by pedants. Show-offs preferred to say petits-pois and champignons, instead of the more common "ervilhas" (peas) and "cogumelos" (mushrooms).

There were also other terms that seem to be French, but were sheer local fabrications, such as "baton" (lip stick) which of course is called in French rouge a levres; "casse-tetes" (policeman's truncheon) which the French call baton de gendarme.

And "sutia" (bra) that does come from soutien gorge (breast support). In this case, it was English that got it wrong, since bra comes from brassiere, the metallic arm (bras) of a suit of armour, such as worn by knights of yore.

What's going to happen to the high priests and priestesses of the haute cuisine? The very same art of cooking that according to French (who else?) author Blaise Cendrars, is the paramount part of the Triple Culinary Crown — together with Brazilian cooking and Chinese cooking? Are they going to climb down from their pedestal and pressure translators and interpreters to provide them with Brazilian equivalent terms? God forbid!

In any collection of such terms, one must begin with chef de cuisine or chef He's the chief, the leader, the boss, the commander on the bridge of a ship, as a complete kitchen has been compared to.

In America the "democratization" of the term made it lose much of its brilliance. Today, in the trade they never talk about "cook," which has its own dignity and value: in practically every US eatery, all the cooks are called chefs, including single solitary kitchen hands in a sandwich joint that serves potato chips in bags.

The list of French culinary terms is immense. A , quick perusal shows that some are no less than essential. For instance, what will we say instead of hors d'oeuvre or mayonnaise? What dreadful names will make us forget all the wonderful sauces and dressings, such as vinaigrette, hollandaise, marseillaise, nicoise, auvergnat, béarnaise and specially pistou — made with mashed garlic and basil, plus tomato paste cheese, and olive oil?

What new names will such regal soups bear?

What to call the delightful vichyssoise which should be properly honored by Americans — with its proper pronunciation, vee-shee-swah-ze — seen that it was born in New York City in the hands of the great chef Louis Diat, who launched a cold version of the traditional potage Parmentier? Will onion soup satisfy the gentle reader as fully as the soupe a l'oignon, with its rich bread garnishment and the lip-smacking melted cheese? Can a petite bourgeoise onion soup, even when preceded by the adjective French, play the role of a glorious golden key to a Bohemian night at four o'clock in the morning, in the centuries-old market, Les Halles?

BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

Served, hot as the devil, in a brown petite terrine wi the worthy company of a light as breeze Pelu e d'oignon (onion skin) wine or a little more robus Chateauneuf du Pape? Good God ("Bon Dieu' ) just remembering is enough ca suffit to make me cry!

Great owledge and much talent will be required to re ame such dishes as bouillabaisse (ancestor to the New Orleans Jambalaya), the quiches in their sev ral local versions, Nicoise, Lorraine, Dijonnaise, etc., dishes a la grecque (in a rriampr the French believe to be Greek, that is cooked in marinade ard served cold), the dainty and delicate cuisses de renouille (very small and tender frogs' legs), escar ots des vignerons de Bourgogne (snail from Burg dy vineyards), tripes a la mode de Caen (a 13 hour metamorphosis of the lowly tripe into a fabu ous monument to the human palate), filet migno , canetons aux navettes (duck with turnips), all sorts of cassoulets (beef, pork, mutton, lamb stews Also the rads (roasts) of the lean French grassfed beef that o en is larde to become juicy, succulent, and marvel us.Do you want something light and fast. You ay pick an anchoyade, a hot anchovy canapé, or pâté de foie gras, pate de campagne, pâté maiso , spread on pieces of crisp baguettes, vol au vent crudités variees (raw vegetables) and one of seve al hundred cheeses: Roquefort, Brie de Meaux, C embert, Pont l'Eveque, Saint Paulin, Cantal, Sa nte Maure, Belletoile triple crème, Dauphinois Coulomiers, Reblochon, Valencay, St. Marcellin, mite, Beaumont, Boursin triple crème, Mimolette, Munster, Tomme de Savoie, Fromage au marc de raisins, Bleu de Bresse.

Will I are mention desserts? Well, I must, since dess rt is itself a French word. Do you like mousse? C mpote? Profiteroles? Creme caramel?

Fraises so fflies? Not being a cook myself, my knowledge of French kitchen terminology is limited, but he e are some terms I have heard: en bain marie, poc é, grille, bonne femme, au naturel, en croft' te, meuniere, a la mariniere, farci, a la mode (meaning raised, not with ice cream added), gratine, a gratin, a la bordelaise (in the Bordeaux style), a 1 armoricaine (Armorica is the ancient name of B ittany).

For a od measure, a few last French cuisine terms, not in any particular order: pate brisee, fonds de c isine (beef or chicken stock), puree, aux champign ns, bourride (a soul-satisfying fish soup of Proven e with garlic mayonnaise), coquilles Saint Jac ues (scallops), riz de veau (veal sweetbreads), p ule & poulet (hen and chicken, poule also mean a woman of easy virtue, a bimbo, a tart), sauté, rognons (kidneys), cervelle au beurre noir (brains wi burned butter sauce), sauté de lapin au yin blanc sauteed rabbit with white wine), homard (lobster), aubergine (eggplant), tomates, huile d'olive (o ive oil), haricots verts (green beans), cresson ( ater cress), escarole, concombre (cucumber), ornichons (gherkins, small pickled cucumbers).

In the welfth century, when William the Conqueror wi the battle of Hastings and went on to rule the S xons, the French bequeathed the English language fairly large number of household and farm term.. To the Saxon breeder, a swine was a hog, but tt the French courtiers who ate the pigs, it 17

was porc; and that's why today we say and write pork.

The ox, which we now call usually a steer, was boeuf in French, and from that we got beef; shepherds bred and tended sheep but as food comes mutton from the French mouton; similar was the fate of calf, which the French enjoyed at the table with the name of veau, from which we derived our veal.

No write-up about what the Brazilians are being forcibly deprived of in terms of the French language would be complete without mentioning love and sex. Both are fields where the French traditionally excel and have quite a reputation and where the Brazilians endeavor to compete courageously. Let's examine a few of those words and expressions that seem to confirm that "the difference.., between opera and barbershop singing is much smaller than the difference between sex as the last generation came to accept it and sex as it can be."

First and foremost comes the billet doux, if and when one has the time to write a sweet note, a love note. There is science and art in it. And I speak with the authority of one who has lectured singles' groups on how to turn out the most effective ones.

Then comes bidet, a puzzling artifact in America but widely used in Europe (the UK excepted) and Latin America, where it is deemed not only useful, comfortable for many uses and, above all hygienic.

(Once in Rio, when I was showing an apartment I wanted to let, a potential tenant, a lady who worked at the US Consulate General, enquired me why the bathroom included such equipment. "Is it to bathe the babies in?" she mused innocently. I could not resist the opportunity of a low-class pun: No, madam. It is to wash the babies out."

It was the French who coined the expression faire l 'amour, which has one single meaning. In English, oddly enough, "to make love" depends on the preposition. If you make love to G. you probably are limiting yourself to kissing, petting, embracing. But if you make love with, well, you are on the right track, going all the way, having sex with G. Colloquially, the French say baiser (to kiss) when kissing is not the main dish. They mean "to' do it." So, how do they say to kiss? Embrasser (to embrace), sometimes enhanced by the addition of sur la bouche (on the lips).

Cassolette means "perfume box," but not literally. It does not come from being bathed in cologne or expensive perfumes. It is the whole body, the sweet, attractive, irresistible odor of the entire body. A clean smell of well shampooed hair, warm and silky skin, breasts, armpits (preferably unshaven and with the natural fragrance that comes from using good soap and discreet perfumes), the genitals and the clothing she has worn.

Nowadays, all these essential qualities are demanded of the male partner too, although his body is called cassolette only in very special circumstances and with special people. Particular attention should be given to how good les fesses (the butt) smell.

How does one position oneself in relation to one's partner is extremely important, and you all know it. The French, however, have specific names for each. I don't mean pnly soixante-neuf, the very popular sixty-nine, but croupade, a la negresse and

cuissade, three slightly varied kinds of rear entry.

Among the face to face postures, in flanquette the woman and the man lie on their sides, she puts one leg between his, he reciprocates. This is a reverse cuissade and is highly prized by couples who do it well, while riding the partner's leg. There is a variation where both legs of one partner are flanked by the legs of the other.

The "missionary position" is called in French matrimonial. There is nothing wrong with it as many Brazilians — and indeed people of all nationalities — can attest. But it should be part of an amorous repertoire, never a routine. Incidentally, it was the playful Polynesians who set the term "missionary position" in circulation.

Have you heard of ombli (navel) as a venue of delightful jeux d'amour (love games)? Well, even if it isn't usually an erogenous zone, it may become one, with the help of — attention! — whipped cream with a few drops of Amaretto, Grand Manlier or Drambuie. It's better to try it in summer or any season not requiring too much bedlinen.

And, for heaven's sake, don't worry if you make a bit of a mess. I'm assured that it is more comfortable, and enjoyable, than eating crackers in bed, alone, and shedding crumbs around. Use your imagination but first consult your partner. Does he/ she object to vanilla ice cream with bits of nuts, or small pieces of peach, apricot, kiwi, whatever?

What about a strawberry, a cherry, raisins? A drop of mint liqueur, like Crème de Menthe, or Chartreuse, or perhaps Cointreau?

There is absolutely no rule either against sliding this treatment further down, if the bodies are willing no matter what the Itamaraty Diplomatic School may say. Then les grandes levres (big lips) come on their own, enjoy themselves, please the small lips tasting them, and maybe smack them. It might evolve into a feuille de rose (rose leaf), an exquisite "linguistic" exercise covering the whole body and every one of its nooks and crannies.

For this experience to be really successful, though, a pit stop on a bidet is de rigueur. This will be confirmed by any "connoisseur" (an ancient French word, now strictly English. It's pronounced like "cono soor" as in Cono Sur of South America.

The current French word with same meaning has changed to connaisseur as it comes from the verb "connaitre" which replaced "connoitre" about two centuries ago. In this connection, research, if you will, the Japanese-looking French term gamahuche.

To wrap this brief against the decreed demise of the French language in the lowest echelons of the carriere, let's have pattes d'araignie (spider's paws) execute on a welcoming body, ear lobes, upper lip, nipples, inside the arms and legs, groins, armpits, foot soles, nape, temples, belly, lower back, their breezy digital dance at the preferred rhythm, eliciting sighs and cries of maman, mameie, mama, Mutti, mamma.

Finally, please be informed that condoms are called in French capottes anglaises (or capots anglais) honoring Her Britannic Majesty's Dr. Condom, who invented them to protect against V.D. the British soldiers then "touring" Egypt. In a wrongful reprisal for the perceived insult, the English — in a rare lapse of humour — began to call them "French letters." Et la contredanse est finie.

•

18 BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

Hooked on credit Brazilians these days, even the most humble of them, seem always to be stuck in endless installment payments.

The other side of the coin is that modern life's little gadgets are quickly arriving in many more houses than ever.

CARLOS EMMANUEL DA FONSECA BARRETO

In July 1994, the Real Plan controlled an inflation rate that haunted the Brazilian economy for many decades.

The first reaction to this episode was a boost in investments, consumption and sales. But it also changed consumer behavior due to the increase in average purchasing power. Brazil contains a large lower-class population that for a long time has felt deprived of technological advancements. Today, firms are learning to adapt themselves to this new consumer class, creating conditions for purchases and offering new products totally focused on their needs.

In a one-bedroom house irl a Rio slum a family of five might live on a $410 monthly income. The introduction of the real did not help them afford a bigger home, but for sure helped them live a little more comfortably. They no longer need to watch television at their neighbors; they may listen to compact discs; they now cook on a brand new stove; and they keep their clothes inside a recently purchased four-door closet.

None of this was a gift from generous entrepreneurs or politicians. In the new Brazilian economic setting, without inflation, the lower level portion of the population learned how to blidget their earnings and the companies' dis3= covered the consumption power of thii class. The real brought an increase in the average Brazilian standard of living. Day-to-day life is still hard for these people, but they can buy a lot more than in the past.

The rise of the lower classes purchasing potential was recently tested by a survey conducted by the Braillian consulting firm Target. The survey indicated that the â&#x20AC;˘ annual per capita consumption of the social classes, C D and E (families with earnings up to $1,120 monthly) increased almost four fold, from $225 in 1983 to $880 today.

It is important to notice that the lowest class, known as E, was the biggest winner changing from an $8 monthly earning to $252 in the last 13 years. According to Target, in 1983 this new purchasing power represented 11% of BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

the total country's consumption. In the real era, they represent 36% of the national consumption.

This figure encompasses 101 million workers who in 1996 will spend $89 billion. The most important factors contributing to this increase are the price stability, availability of credit and cheaper but better products. Until now, in Brazil a cheap product was synonymous with a bad product. Since 1994, however, companies have been working to change this equation.

Japan's Sanyo, for example, formed a joint venture with the Air erican firm Newtech to produce in Brazil electronic equipment with good quality at lower prices.

They are in esting $10 million to manufacture modern designed products. An important economic theory says that when cansumers raise their incomes, the first thing that they look for is better quality. Contrary to what happens to e e elite, the lower classes know the real value of money. They do not just look for cheaper prices. They may pay a little bit more for a product if they consider it to be of bett r quality.

In foodstuff alone, the classes C, D and E will spend $27 billion during 1996. This means a better diet through the purchase of healthier food. Imported products also contributed to this improvement in eating habits. It created competition forcing prices to decline and quality to increase.

Arthur Sendas, President of a large supermarket chain which carries the name of his family, confirmed that sales increased 15% on average since the adoption of the Real.

According to Sendas, "Families with earnings up to $350 a month experienced an increase in their purchasing power and therefore, they were able to invest in what they e most important: food." consi Target's survey also pointed to an increase in credit. The lower-paid consumer rarely buys with cash. Moreover, for that fact, they are the ones with better credit ratings. Because they need good credit to live. According to Nelson Assad, director of Fininvest Credit, people earning as little as $100 a month are getting credit, while in the past, they weren't considered before they made at least $300 a month. Fininvest manages $340 million in credit today and plans to double this amount by year's end.

Target's research showed that in 1995 credit sales skyrocketed. There were, for example, 830 thousand CD players sold, a 69.9% increase when compared to the previous year. The number of TV sets sold jumped 23% during the same period, representing the sale of 6.1 Million televisions.

Close to 475 thousand air conditioners were also purchased which represented a growth of 83% in this segment.

If the earnings of these sectors of the population are limited, the same cannot be said about their desire to consume. The crucial dilemma is to find a monthly payment that fi s into their budgets.

Cristina Oliveira, a housekeeper in sao Paulo, for example, e ns a salary of $450 from which she reserves $250 to pa her monthly credit bills. Says Oliveira, "As ish paying for one product, I buy another soon as I one," This is hat the market calls bicycle: the habit of m one credit bill ,to another. Moreover, this â&#x20AC;˘ pedaling habit helps reduce bad debts as the need to survive takes a different imension. Even though interest rates are still very high, i is now a secondary problem to borrowers and lenders.

19

Gold rush years of participation in the mpics Brazil never had it so rivate and public resources ing funneled to prepare the s and bring them to Atlanta. ountry is hopeful that it will dd a good collection of new ctals to its modest catch of 30 ne of which are gold). Brazil s to shine, and then take the Games to Rio in 2004.

ALESSANDRA DALEVI Regardless of the result it gets in Atlanta this Summer, the Brazilian Olympic delegation has already made history. With more than 220 athletes participating in 19 of the 33 Olympic categories, this is Brazil's largest delegation ever to partake in the Olympics. Four years ago in Barcelona, Brazil had 198 athletes competing in 18 distinctive divisions. A very different arrangement compared to 1928, for instance, when there was virtually no money available to send the contenders to Amsterdam.

This time the athletes are being officially sponsored by Brahma, a weighty beer company, and Embratel, the state telecommunications monopoly. Six other companies are also contributing in a less significant scale. They are Shering, Icatu, Golden Cross, Kibon, Varig and Reebok.

Their donations combined comes to $10 million. By the end ofJune the Federal Government had already contributed with $2.8 million. The Brazilian Olympics never had this kind of monetary subsidy.

Also, for the first time, the Coin ite Olimpieo Brasileiro (COB) will be using the games to advertise Brazilian sports and tourism. Casa Brasil (Brazil House), located on Peach Tree Street in the affluent Buckhead neighborhood in Atlanta, is a 1920'.s Georgian-style mansion which was rented and renovated into a showcase for Brazil by Paulo Jacobsen and Claudio Bernardes, two renowned Carioca (from Rio) architects. Several Brazilian painters and sculptors will have their work displayed in the twostory house which has been completely painted green. You can see Casa Brazil's work on line at http://www.esportenet.ignet.com.br/ casabr.htm The female soccer team has been in the US

since mid June. First ones to arrive, the players went to Rapid City in South Dakota for practice, but their first interaction in the Olympics will have to wait till the 21st of July, when they play against Norway. One million dollars were invested in their training with eight friendly games set up against international teams. The women won six, had a tie and only lost to the US by 3 to Ze Duarte, the coach, seems confident that the team will get a medal even though Brazil is in a very competitive group. Their adversaries are current world champions Norway, second place Germany and Japan. Only the two best teams will continue into the next phase of the games.

The male soccer team is spending $3.5 million in its 'gold operation.' CBF's (Confederac.jo Brasileira de Futebol â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Brazilian Soccer Confederation) president, Ricardo Teixeira, announced that $1.5 million will be disbursed in prizes alone if the team wins the gold. They are getting the same treatment given the team that won the World Cup in 1994 in the US. CBF is also taking care of extra expenses with security and housing. Instead of utilizing the rooms at the Olympic Village, the soccer aces will be lodged in a hotel where a whole floor will be reserved for the team. Brazil soccer is thirsty for a medal, preferably a gold one. It's the only title the team hasn't gotten yet. Perspectives are good, Nigeria, Brazil's strongest adversary in theory, is going through a series of crises.

The final soccer team was defined late in June. By then the so-called 'foreigners' (Brazilian athletes playing overseas) had already been selected. They were Roberto Carlos, Aldair,

20 BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

in Barcelona. Without any sponsor, his only supJuninho, Ronaldinho and Bebeto. Ronaldinho who port comes from Esporte Clube Pinheiros, the club is now 19, was only 17 during the Word Cup. Tired where he practices and teaches weightlifting. "We of all the controversy around him, contentious hake to end this prejudice against weightlifting. In Romario, the great hero of 1994, gave up any hope Brazil the sport is confused with of making to Atlanta at the bebodybuilding and people think that ginning of June by declaring, "I it is a sport for huge men who have no more time to dream. 1 aren't even able to speak." will be only a fan during the In swimming Fernando Sherer Olympics." and Gustavo Borges are Brazil's In track-and-field Brazil is sparkling stars. Sherer will be combringing 40 athletesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;six women peting in the 50 and 100 meters and 34 men. This is a record numand the 4x100 relay. He came in ber. Ready to compete in 19 second in the 100 meters at the matches, according to the athrecent Charlotte Ultra Swim meet, letes themselves, there is a chance in North Carolina. Gustavo Borto get a medal in at least ten ges, another Brazilian came in first categories. in the same competition. In the Brazil's main hope lies in the 200 meters he beat American Josh marathon, the long jump and in Davis who is currently the favorthe 200, 800 and 1,500 meter ite candidate to win the gold in runs. Names to be observed are Atlanta. For coach Carlos Camargold medalist Joaquim Cruz go, who is part of the national (1,500 and 800 meters), Zequinha delegation technical commission, Barbosa (800), Robson Caetano "Brazil has everything to win the (200) and Luis Antonio dos 100 and 200 meters. Gustavo and Santos (marathon).

Fernando are among the world's To prepare for Atlanta's sumsix best swimmers in this catmer weather, Brazilian athletes _4 egory." spent a week in Manaus in the Since the beginning of April, Amazon, which has similar temBrazil's Olympic hero Ademar kirtt the Brazilian cycling team has preFerreira da Silva won twice (52/56) peratures to the city which is the gold medal in the triple jump. pared itself for Atlanta competing housing the Olympics. With a in various places in Europe: Porlittle help from sponsors, athletes tugal, Italy and France. Barring will be given a small incentive in last-minute changes, the team will have Mauro the form of money prizes. Every gold medal is Ribeiro, Hernandes Quadri Junior, Jamil Suaiden, worth $20,000; a silver one $15,000 and a bronze Marcio May, Daniel Rogelin and Cassio Freitas. $10,000. Just for making the team each athlete is Twice world champion in getting $4,000 to take with yachting, Roberto Scheidt, 23, them to Atlanta. This is a Paulista (from Sao Paulo,) more like a token when Brazili an medals is a strong candidate to a gold compared to the $1 million medal in Atlanta. He leads the offered by the English to Gold Silver Bronze ranking in the laser class. He's whoever breaks the world 4 Yachting been in Savannah, US, where record. But it makes a 3 Judo the Olympic competition will substanticial difference 3 Swimming take place, since mid-June in when compared to other 1 1 Shooting preparation for the games.

Brazilian participants who 1 Volleyball "The biggest problem," he 5 2 3 will have to pay for the trip "[rack & Field 3 Basketball said, "is the temperature. out of their own pocket.

1 13oxing While in sao Paulo it is very San Diego (California)2 Soccer cold, here it is very hot." based Joaquim Cruz who Daniel Glomb, 15, from won a gold medal in Los Parana, is another rising star Angeles and a silver one in in yachting. He will be in a boat with two other Seoul, was forced to train in Brazil due to a strong teammates in he soling category. Glomb started to case of pollen allergy contracted in the US. Robson sail when he was six. Without a sponsor he has been Caetano also has had his share of troubles. He hurt able to progress thanks to his father. His boat cost his right calf and also was very shaken after an around 530,000, plus $1,000 a month in mainteassault by gun-toting robbers who fled with his nance alone.

BMW in Rio de Janeiro. It should be noted howDanielle Zangrando, 16, is another youngster ever, that the car has been found by the police. who has a chance of taking a medal home. The Weightlifter Edmilson, 32, doesn't expect a student, who took a sabbatical from school to medal. For him being able to go to Atlanta alone is practice her judo. is not complaining about the trips sufficient; being among the ten best will exceed and sacrifices. It's worthwhile to struggle for the satisfaction. This is his third participation in the things you believe in, even if this means being far games. He came in 21st place in Seoul and in 18th BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

21

Gold hopefuls Gabrielle in swimming

Ronaldminho in socccer...

.. Pedro Chamulera in track and field 22

from your family and flirtatious encounters." The judo team has still two other teenagers: Cristiane Parmegiano, 17 and Sebastian Pereira, 19.

In the equestrian competition, Rodrigo Pessoa, 21, will be representing Brazil. His father is Brazilian, but he was born in Paris and now lives in Belgium. Pessoa doesn't like to be called French. "My blood is Brazilian from my father's side," he protests. "And that's what counts."

Irrne From the 39 Olympic medals Brazil got in a century of competitions none was won by a woman. But the country has at least two Olympic heroines. One of them, jumper Aida dos Santos, was born and raised in a Rio favela (shantytown). In the Tokyo Games in 1964, the first year of the military regime, she came in fourth in the high jump competition â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the best result ever for a Brazilian female in the Olympics. She competed also in the 100 meters and the javelin. Getting to Japan was a miracle in itself. Aida had no uniform, no coach, no money and not even an adequate pair of running shoes. It was a compassionate Cuban who gave her appropriate shoes to compete.

The other heroine, Maria Lenk, a Paulista swimmer, at age 81 continues to practice the sport, swimming more than one hour every day. She became the first South-American woman to participate in the Olympics. Lenk went to Los Angeles in 1932 and Berlin four years later. In both occasions, however, she wasn't able to classify for the finals.

Among the women who can break the taboo in Atlanta and take the medal home are Jacqueline Silva and Sandra Pires, considered the world's best double in the new Olympic category: beach volleyball.- The female basketball team is also a great favorite being the current world champion and with talents such as Paula and Hortencia. Swimming beauty Gabrielle Rose, 19, with an American father and Brazilian mother is also a strong bet in the 200 meter medley and 100 meter butterfly.

A delicate case is Edinanci Fernandes da Silva, 19, who is a powerful judoist, but has her femininity in doubt. She presents characteristics of both sexes and had an operation at the end of April that eliminated her testicles and repaired her clitoris. The doubt was if the doctors of the Olympic Committee would accept her in the female category.

PREM .

Brazil would like to shine in Atlanta. After all the country is a candidate to host the Olympics in 2004. At the Open House of Casa Brasil in Atlanta in mid-June, Sports Minister Edson Arantes do Nascimento, better known as Pele, together with Carlos Nuzman, Brazilian Olympics Committee's president, lobbied for Rio-2004. They argued that the city is the only among the ten candidates that can promote all the Olympic events on a 13 mile radius.

According to Nuzman, Rio is willing and able to invest the $1.5 billion that will be needed just to build and reform the venues. Pele stated, "If we can do all of this with private money, so much the better." The minister stressed, however, that the municipal, state and federal governments favor the idea and intend to make all the necessary investments to house the 2004 Olympics. By the way you can see Casa Brazil's work on line at http://www.esportenet.ignet.com.bricasabr.htm As for crime in Rio, Pete reminded that Eco-92, the Ecology Summit, was held in that city without a hitch. "Violence and crime," he observed, "are present in every city of the world. The same thing happened to Atlanta. When the city was first mentioned as a host town, everybody was talking about how violent Atlanta was."

BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

Scrap art After having broken the rules in Brazil by successfully participating in an area (engineering) normally dominated by men, Silvia Poloto turned her life upside down. This metamorphosis, however, would only be complete following her journey from Brazil to the Golden Gates of San Francisco.

LIANA ALAGEMOVITS

Even before the 1960's with the rise of the Flower Power era, the picturesque city of San Francisco has been considered unique and often recognized as a cultural haven that welcomed from the wise to the weird. The city of the Golden Gate attracts peopl from all parts of the planet, with their di ferent beliefs and cultures. Many come looki g for liberty in the bohemian cafés found on every corner, others are hopeful of fulfilling creams in a way they would never be able i4 their own town.

A visitor today needs only to be aware in order to be guaranteed an encounter with the unexpected in this magic city. That's what happened to me. My recollection of the exact location is somewhat blurry, but it w s in a very cozy café, during a cold winter's e ening, under a thick blanket of fog.

Among exotic teas, butter cooki s and succulent pies, I met Silvia Poloto, a razilian, and Bill, her husband. (Bill is from Ireland but lived in Brazil for nine years and speaks perfect Portuguese.) It was one of those rare encounters where you fe 1 you have known the people for many ye rs and have so much in common with them.

For one of those serendipities of 1 fe, we happened to share the same table and egan a conversation that has continued until today.

We had so much to say that we deci ed to meet every week. Like the great writer Fernando Sabino we arranged our m etings at the end of the afternoon.

From hundreds of stories we exc anged one in particular comes to mind — the whirlwind meeting of the couple during the height BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

23

of summer on a tropical beach in Bahia, in the northeast of Brazil. Their brief but fateful encounter only allowed for telephone numbers to be exchanged. It wasn't until one year later that they were able to meet again in the city of Sao Paulo, where Silvia lived and developed her career as an engineer. Just like in the movies, the couple fell madly in love and were married within a week. Crazy? Who knows, maybe so. However, some like to call this love at first sight.

Following Silvia's graduation in Engineering from the University of Sao Paulo (USP) and her obtaining a master's degree from the Getalio Vargas Foundation, she enjoyed a calm lifestyle working for a major corporation. This would continue until their move to the US two years after their wedding. "All of a sudden everything changed," recalls Silvia.

"I left my family, my secure employment and my country. Only then, feeling isolated from all familiar things in my life, could I succeed in looking inside of myself and recognizing who I really was. I realized that everything I had done until then was just to please my parents and my big brother whom I had always admired and who is also an engineer. I had also wanted to prove that women can be as good as men â&#x20AC;&#x201D; it didn't matter in what area."

Without playing the 'feminist role', Silvia not only managed to conquer her space as an engineer in Brazil, but was also able to conquer little by little her space as an artist in America.

As always the artists of the world can suffer for their passion. That is where Bill comes in. Having spent some years of his life as a professional musician, he could understand and sympathize with Silvia in her constant struggle for artistic and financial success.

This understanding has allowed Silvia the necessary time to establish herself in the local market, and attain recognition through group and individual exhibitions. "He helped me gain enough confidence to give up a career and merge into the unknown", the artist adds, while embracing her husband who she also considers her best friend.

24

She went through different phases exploring different media, which allowed her to best express her creative self. After producing many works in collage, decoupage and mixed- media, she finally discovered the enlightenment of welded steel. When describing the process of creating her life-size steel sculptures she stirs up so much passion that I knew I had to see her sculptures for myself.

We then went to her loft in the SOMA district (south of Market St.).

Her place is very reminiscent of those New York lofts often seen in Hollywood movies. However, the artist's unique living and working space did not impress me nearly as much as her sculptures did. To say the least, I was shocked. The sculptures standing proud and dynamic, seemed to dance throughout the sunlit and airy space.

Looking at Silvia, who weighs only 110 pounds, I found myself wondering how she managed to weld together these heavy pieces of steel.

She only laughed when I told her this, because for her, heavy work never stopped her from doing anything.

Bill intercedes here to tell me that the most gruesome part is when she goes to the scrap-metal yards to choose her pieces among the mud, giant magnetic cranes and industrial trucks. These pieces of discarded metal, which were once destined for the melting furnaces, are now being transformed into beautiful pieces of art that will give inspiration and pleasure to many.

Silvia's passion for life and art is definitely contagious. I have now become an admirer and friend of this artist. I continue rooting for her, the artist who found enormous satisfaction and magic in the pounding, cutting, grinding and welding of raw steel which she manipulates and molds until it becomes one of the most sacred things in the world: a work of creation.

San Francisco has already recognized Silvia's value as an artist. Following a very successful solo exhibit at 333 Bush Street last October, Alexandra Cefalo, art dealer and curator, has invited Silvia to give another showing at the same location.

BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

W

National spirits After living a low-life existence for generations, cachaca is getting some respect. Brazilians from all walks of life admit of being fan of the strong sugarcane liquor. And even foreigners now are learning to savor what started as a slave beverage.

DIVYA SHUKLA

BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

hat is typically Brazilian? Rio's beaches, Pele, Brasilia's architecture, Carmen Miranda, Romario's soccer style, Xuxa and, without a doubt, cachaca.

Cachaca, an alcoholic beverage made from distilled sugar cane juice, is one of the most consumed drinks in Brazil, second only to beer.

Folklore has it that cachaca was conceived and originally consumed around 400 years ago by slaves who started to drink the liquid that fermented out of the sugar cane plantations. Plantation owners began to serve this liquid to their slaves after noticing its positive effects, such as increased vigor, experienced by the slaves who consumed it.

According to the Brazilian Association of Spirits (ABRABE), Brazil has 4,000 brands of cachaca and the country produces 1 billion liters of the beverage per year. During the last decade cachaca has also gained popularity on an international level. The product is exported to the United States, Japan, Germany, France, Canada, Australia, and several other countries. Exports in 1994 totaled $3.5 million and surpassed exports in 1992 by 33%.

Export markets prefer smaller (unknown) brands instead of domestically popular brands.

Nega Fulo, for example, one of the favorite cachacas overseas, exported $1.4 million in 1993.

The renewed popularity of the product has given rise to pirate activity. There are so many illegal versions selling on the streets of Brazil, that Havana, a popular brand made in the north of Minas Gerais, is about to call it quits. Havana is considered to be one of the best cachacas in Brazil. A large part of Havana's appeal is the fact that it is very rare, due to the limited annual production of 600 thousand liters. Havana's proprietor's intention to stop production is due not only to illegal versions, but also to the high taxes imposed on alcohol.

Cachaca is no longer stigmatized as the drinkof-the-poor-masses. The alcoholic beverage now appeals to a trendy, young and upper-class clientele. It is possible to order various cachaca drinks in any of several fashionable Brazilian bars and nightclubs. Some of these concoctions are the Caipitetra (orange, honey, mint and cachaca) and the Granada Brasileira (passion fruit, cream, sugar and cachaca). Nevertheless, cachaca does continue to be purchased by the lower classes, basically due to the potent combination of high alcoholic content and a cheap price.

The English magazine Drinks International ranks cachaca (primarily the brand Pirassununga 51) among the five most consumed distilled liquors in the world. Pirassununga 51 is produced in Pirassununga in the state of Sdo Paulo.

Pirassununga sold 206 million liters in 1993, and 200 million liters in 1994, whereas the worldwide rum producer Bacardi sold 180 million liters in 1993. A large portion of cachaca sales are made to Brazilians who consume, on average, two billion liters of cachaca per year, what translates into 13 liters for each man, woman and child in the country.

Brazil's metropolitan state of Sao Paulo is the heart of the production, distribution and consumption of cachaca. Two brands, Caninha 51 and Velho Barreiro, dominate the market share of this southern state. Caninha 51 has 27.7% of the national market share whereas Velho Barreiro is 25

slightly lower at 10%.

During 1994, approximately $89 million was spent on advertisement by the major producers and distributors of cachao. The advertisement is very state-specific. Research and development funds are set aside for marketing that is designed to capture the current trends, styles and attitudes accepted and displayed by each of Brazil's states.

For instance, Sao Paulo's brand Caninha 51's advertisement includes billboards which feature the TV comedian and, its spokesperson, Chico Anysio. Movie theater trailer ads show Chico Anysio in the roles of a drunk, a politician and a Don Juan, each enjoying Caninha 51 appropriately (according to the personality of the character).

Caninha 51's movie theater trailer ads are filmed differently for the audiences of smaller Brazilian towns. The ads still feature Chico Anysio, but this time the comedian discusses benefits of the drink, in addition to its taste, such as its practical packaging and the clear color of the liquid.

Walter Guelfi, the VP of Lage &

Recipes: Caipirinha (little peasant girl): 2 fresh limes, grated and squeezed; 2 tablespoons of sugar, 1 cup of cachaca. 1 cup of crushed ice. Combine sugar, grated lime peel and lime juice. Add cachaca and pour into glasses filled with ice.

Raho de Gala (rooster's tail): One of the most popular cachaca recipes. Combine 2/ 3 cachao and 1/3 red Cinzano. Ice is optional.

Macaca's Milk: Combine 1/3 cachao, 1/ 3 coconut milk. 1/3 condensed milk. 1 teaspoon of sugar, and cinnamon. Blend and serve on ice.

Arrastao: 1 shot of cachaca, 1 shot of grape juice, 3 canned peaches. I spoon of sugar, 1 spoon of instant coffee and 1 spoon of egg whites. Blend and serve on ice.

Balalaika: 3/5 cachaca, 2/5 grape juice. 2 spoons of sugar, 1 spoon of instant coffee, 1 spoon of egg whites. Blend and serve on ice.

Al% orada: 2/8 cachaca. 1/8 maraczaa (passion fruit) juice. 2/8 orange juice, 1/8 lemon juice. 2/8 condensed milk. Blend and serve on ice.

Royal Bee: 2/3 cachao, 1/3 Campari. 3 cherries. 1 spoon of honey. Blend, drain and serve on ice.

Spanish: 2/3 cachao, 2/3 melon juice. 1/ 6 pineapple juice, 1/6 lemon juice.] spoon of sugar. Blend and serve on ice.

26

Magy, the agency in charge of the advertisement for Caninha 51, says that the tailor-made-bystate ads have been instrumental in helping Caninha 51 gain and retain market share. The Lage & Magy agency's new advertising campaign is called Agent 51. The Agent 51 ad places employees of the advertisement agency in various bars throughout the state of Parana.

These employees, masquerading as customers, wait for someone to order Caninha 51.

As soon as someone does order the drink, both the customer and the bar owner win prizes. The prizes awarded so far have been bicycles, videocassettes and electronic equipment. Caninha 51's competitor and current mar-

Market Share by brand: Caninha 51 =27.7°/u Pitu = 11.1% Velho 13arreiro = 10% Caninha Oncinha = 6.4% Caninha da Roca = 4.2% Caninha Jamel = 3.4% Others = 37.2% ket leader, in Parana, is Caninha Jamel.

Similarly, the cachao Velho Barreiro also devotes a large portion of revenues to advertisement expense. Velho Barreiro's most popular slogan is an amusing piece called Chama o Velho (call the old man — a word play on the brand name). The ad had its debut on television and later on radio stations in Sao Paulo and in the Northern part of the country.

Carlos Ledo, of the agency Fisher & Justus, prefers to concentrate media advertisement efforts on television advertisements. Fisher & Justus is the agency responsible for the advertisement for Velho Barreiro.

Fisher & Justus is also the agency that was the brainchild of the popular slogan Namero 1 (Number 1) for Brahma during the 1994 soccer World Cup in the US. Velho Barreiro is one of the most sophisticated brands of cachaca and as such one would expect it to appeal to the upper class, but, according to the agency, the advertisements have been effective in reaching the local (neighborhood) bar clientele, which, in Brazil, tends to be

By any name Cachao is known by dozen of names.

Each of Cachaca's synonym can be placed within a regional context as well as a reference to the quality of the Cachaca itself Among the most common names there are: Abrideira (the opener) A-do-6 Agua benta (holy water) Agua que passarinho nao bebe (water that the bird doesn't drink) Aguardente (burning water) • Arrebenta peito (chest smasher) Assovio de cobra (snake's whistle) Birita Branquinha (little white one) Brasa (ember) Brasileira (Brazilian) Capote-de-pobre (poorman's coat) Caxiri Cotreia Danada (damned) Desmancha samba (samba unraveler) Engasga gato (cat choker) Imaculada (immaculate) Já comeca (it already starts) Lindinha (little pretty one) Mata bicho (beast killer) Meu consolo (my consolation) Perigosa (dangerous) Pinga (it drops) Purinha (little pure one) Remedio (medicine) Samba Sete virtudes (seven virtues) Suor de alambique (alembic's sweat) Veneno (poison) Zuninga middle and lower class.

The cachaca brand Caninha da Roca prefers to sponsor radio shows instead of the traditional television advertisement. Jose Luiz de Barros, President of marketing at Caninha da Roca, prefers to advertise in Rio where the firm enjoys a market share of 49.5%. In addition to radio shows, Caninha da Roca advertises in the form of promotions or give-aways such as napkins decorated with the company logo, among several other similar items.

Cachaca might soon have its own special day. The SBC (Sociedade Bras i leira da Cachaca) wants to declare June 12 the International Day of Cachaca because June 12, 1744, Portugal, then colonizer of Brazil, prohibited the production and distribution of cachaca in the country.

Enough of statistics, market data and other general information; I urge you to indulge in a cachaca cocktail prepared in any of the ways mentioned in the recipes section. Although, you might want to start the traditional way, which also happens to be my favorite, with cachaca,lime, ice and sugar. Enjoy!

• BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

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The Alienist The alienist could barely hide his astonishment; he confessed he expected something else, the demolition of the madhouse, his own imprisonment, exile, everything, but...

MACHADO DE ASSIS ...continued from the June issue

VIII As Angtistias do Boticario Vinte c quatro horas depois dos sucessos narrados no capitulo anterior, o barbeiro saiu do palacio do governo. — foi a denominacAo dada A casa da camara, — corn dois ajudantes-de-ordens, e dirigiu-se A residencia de Slink) Bacamarte. Não ignorava etc que era mais decoroso ao governo manda-lo chamar; o receio. porem, de que o alienista nAo obedecesse, obrigou-o a parecer tolerante c moderado.

NA° descrevo o terror do boticario ao ouvir dizer que o barbeiro ia casa do alienista. — Vai prende-lo, pensou etc. E redobraram-se as anenstias. Corn efeito, a tortura moral do boticario naqueles dias de revolucrio excede a toda a descricrlo possivel. Nunca urn homem se achou em mais apertado lance: — a privanca do alienista chamava-o ao lado deste, a viteiria do barbeiro atraia-o ao barbeiro. Já a simples noticia de sublevacrio tinha-lhe sacudido fortemente a alma, porque ele sabia a unanimidade do Odio ao alienista; mas a vitoria final foi tambem o golpe final. A esposa, senhora mascula. amiga particular de D. Evarista. dizia que o lugar dele era ao lado de SimAo Bacamarte: ao passo que o coracAo the bradava que nao, que a causa do alienista estava perdida, e que ninguem, por ato prOprio. se amarra a um cadaver. Fe-lo Catao, C verdade, sed view Catoni. pensava ele, relembrando algumas palestras habituais do padre Lopes: mas Cala° nao se atou a uma causa vencida, etc era a pi:6pda causa vencida, a causa da republica: o seu ato, portant°, foi de egoista, de urn miseravel egoista; minha situacilo é oritra. Insistindo. porem, a mulher, rift° achou Crispim Soares outra saida em tal crise sena° adoecer; declarouse doente e meteu-se na cama.

— La vai o Porfirio a casa do Dr. Bacamarte disse-lhe a mulher no dia seguinte a cabeceira da caina; vai acompanhado de gente.

— Vai prende-lo, pensou o boticario.

Uma ideia traz outra: o boticario imaginou que, uma vez preso o alienista, viriam tambem busca-lo a etc na qualidade de cOmplice. Esta ideia foi o melhor dos vesicatOrios. Crispim Soares ergueu-se, disse que estava born, que ia sair; e. apesar de todos os esforcos e protestos da consorte, vestiu-se e saiu. Os velhos cronistas sao unanimes em dizer que a certeza de que o marido ia colocar-se nobremente ao lado do alienista consolou grandemente a esposa do boticario; e notam corn muita perspicacia o imenso poder moral de uma ilusao; porquanto, o boticario caminhou resolutamente ao palacio do governo e nao a casa do alienista. Ali chegando, mostrou-se admirado de nao ver o barbeiro, a quem ia apresentar os seus protestos de adesiio. nao o tendo feito desde a vespera por en fermo.

E tossia corn algum custo. Os altos funcionarios que the ouviam esta declaracao. sabedores da intimidade do boticario corn o alienista, compreenderam toda a importancia da adesrio nova c trataram a Crispim Soares corn apurado carinho: afirmaram-lhe que o barbeiro nao tardava: Sua Senhoria tinha ido A Casa Verde, a negeicio importante, mas nAo tardava. Deram-lhe cadeira. refrescos, elogios, disseram-lhe que a causa do ilustre Porfirio era a de todos os patriotas; ao que o boticario ia repetindo que sim. que nunca pensara noutra coisa, que isso mesmo mandaria declarar a Sua Majestade.

IX DOIS LINDOS CASOS NA° se demorou o alienista ern receber o barbeiro; declarou-lhe que nao tinha meios de resistir, c portant° estava prestes a obedecer. SO uma BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

29

coisa pedia, é que o nao constrangesse a assistir pessoalmente a destruicao da Casa Verde.

— Engana-se Vossa Senhoria, disse o barbeiro depois de alguma pausa, engana-se em atribuir ao governo intencdes vanddlicas. Corn razao ou sem ela, a opiniao cre que a major parte dos doidos au i metidos estao em seu perfeito juizo, mas o governo reconhece que a questao e puramente cientifica e nao cogita em resolver com posturas as questOes cientificas. Demais, a Casa Verde é uma instituicao pOblica; tal a aceitamos das maos da camara dissolvida. Ha entretanto — por forca que ha de haver um alvitre intermedio que restitua o sossego ao espirito pOblico.

0 alienista mat podia dissimular o assombro; confessou que esperava outra coisa, o arrasamento do hospicio, a prisao dele, o desterro, tudo, menos...

— 0 pasmo de Vossa Senhoria, atalhou gravemente o barbeiro, vem de nao atender a grave responsabilidade do governo. 0 povo, tornado de uma cega piedade que the dá em tat caso legitima indignacao, pode exigir do governo, certa ordem de atos; mas este, corn a responsabilidade que the incumbe, nao os deve praticar, ao menos integralmente, e tat é a nossa situacao. A generosa revolucao que ontem derrubou uma camara vilipendiada e corruta, pediu em altos brados o arrasamento da Casa Verde; mas pode entrar no animo do governo eliminar a loucura? Nao. E se o governo nao a pode eliminar, esta ao menos apto para reconhece-la? Tambem nao; é materia de ciencia. Logo, em assunto tar) melindrosO, o governo nao pode, nao quer dispensar o concurso de Vossa Senhoria. 0 que the pede é que de certa maneira demos alguma satisfacao ao povo. Unamo-nos, e o povo saberd obedecer. Um dos alvitres aceitaveis , se Vossa Senhoria nao indicar outro, seria fazer retirar da Casa Verde aqueles enfermos que estiverem quase curados e bem assim os maniacos de pouca monta, etc. Desse modo, sem grande perigo, mostraremos alguma tolerancia e benignidade.

— Quantos mortos e feridos houve ontem no conflito? perguntou Simao Bacamarte depois de uns tres minutos.

0 barbeiro ficou espantado da pergunta, mas respondeu logo que onze mortos e vinte e cinco feridos.

— Onze mortos e vinte e cinco feridos! repetiu duas ou tres vezes o alienista.

E em seguida declarou que o alvitre the nao parecia born, mas que ele ia catar algum outro, e dentro de poucos dias Ihe daria resposta. E fez-the varias perguntas acerca dos sucessos da vespera, ataque, defesa, adesao dos dragOes, Tesistencia da camara, etc., ao que o barbeiro ia respondendo corn grande abundancia, insistindo principalmente no descredito em que a camara caira. 0 barbeiro confessou que o novo governo nao tinha ainda por si a confianca dos principais da vita, mas o alienista podia fazer muito nesse ponto. 0 governo, concluiu o barbeiro, folgaria se pudesse contar nao ja corn a simpatia senao corn a benevolencia do mais alto espirito de Itaguai e seguramente do reino. Mas nada disso alterava a nobre e austera fisionomia daquele grande homem que ouvia calado, sem desfalecimento nem modestia, mas impassivel como urn deus de pedra.

— Onze mortos e vinte e cinco feridos, repetiu o alienista depois de acompanhar o barbeiro ate A porta. Eis al dois lindos casos de doenca cerebral. Os sintomas de duplicidade e descaramento desse barbeiro sao positivos. Quanto a toleima dos que o aclamaram, nab é preciso outra prova alem dos onze mortos e vinte e cinco feridos. — Dois lindos casos!

— Viva o i lustre Porfirio! bradaram umas trinta pessoas que aguardavam o barbeiro a porta.

0 alienista espiou pela janela e ainda ouviu este resto de uma pequena fala do barbeiro as trinta pessoas que o aclamavam: — porque eu veto, podeis estar certos disso, eu veto pela execucao das vontades do povo. Confiai em mim; e tudo se fard pela melhor maneira. S6 vos recomendo ordem. E ordem, meus amigos, 6 a base do governo.

— Viva o i lustre Porfirio! bradaram as trinta vozes, agitando os chapeus.

— Dois lindos casos! murmurou o alienista.

X A Restauracao Dentro de cinco dias, o alienista meteu na Casa Verde cerca 30

de cinqnenta aclamadores do novo governo. 0 povo indignouse. 0 governo, atarantado, nao sabia reagir. Joao Pina, outro barbeiro, dizia abertamente nas ruas, que o Porfirio estava "vendido ao ouro de Simao Bacamarte", frase que congregou em tomb de Joao Pina a gente mais resoluta da vita. Porfirio, vendo o antigo rival da navalha a testa da insurreicao, compreendeu que a sua perda era irremedidvel, se nao desse um grande golpe; expediu dois decretos, um abolindo a Casa Verde, outro desterrando o alienista. Joao Pina mostrou claramente corn grandes frases que o ato de Porfirio era urn simples aparato, urn engodo, em que o povo nab devia crer. Duas horas depois caia Porfirio ignominiosamente e Joao Pina assumia a dificil tarefa do governo. Como achasse nas gavetas as minutas da proclamacao, daexposicao ao vice-rei e de outros atos inaugurais do governo anterior, deu-se pressa em os fazer copiar e expedir; acrescentam os cronistas, e alias subentende-se que ele lhes mudou os nomes, e onde o outro barbeiro falara de uma camara corruta, falou este de "urn intruso eivado das mds doutrinas francesas e contrario aos sacrossantos interesses de Sua Majestade", etc.

Nisto entrou na vita uma forca mandada pelo vicerei e restabeleceu a ordem. 0 alienista exigiu desde logo a entrega do barbeiro Porfirio, e bem assim a de uns cinqiienta e tantos ind iv iduos que .declarou mentecaptos; e nao so the deram esses como afiancaram entregar-Ihe mais dezenove sequazes do barbeiro, que convalesciam das feridas apanhadas na primeira revolucao.

Este ponto da crise de Itaguai marca tambem o grau maxim° da influencia de Simao Bacamarte. Tudo quanto quis, deu-se-the; e uma das mais vivas provas do poder do ilustre medico achamo-la na prontidao corn que os vereadores, restituidos a seus lugares, consentiram em que Sebastiao Freitas tambern fosse recolhido ao hospicio. 0 alienista, sabendo da extraordindria inconsistencia das opiniaes desse vereador, entendeu que era urn caso patolOgico, e pediu-o. A mesma coisa aconteceu ao boticario. 0 alienista, desde que the falaram da momentanea adesao de Crispim Soares a rebelido dos Cangicas, comparoua a aprovacao que sempre recebera dele ainda na vespera, e mandou capturd-lo. Crispim Soares nao negou o fato, mas explicou-o dizendo que cedera a um movimento de terror ao ver a rebeliao triunfante, e deu como prova a ausencia de nenhum outro ato seu, acrescentando que voltara logo a cama, doente. Simao Bacamarte nao o contrariou; disse, porem, aos circunstantes que o terror tambem pai da loucura, e que o caso de Crispim Soares the parecia dos mais caracterizados.

Mas aprova mais evidente da influencia de Simao Bacamarte foi a docilidade corn que a camara Ihe entregou o prOprio presidente. Este digno magistrado tinha declarado, em plena sessao, que nao se contentava, para lavd-la da afronta dos Canjicas, corn menos de trinta almudes de sangue: palavra que chegou aos ouvidos do alienista por boca do secretdrio da camara, entusiasmado de tamanha energia. Simao Bacamarte comecou por meter o secretdrio na Casa Verde, e foi dali Camara, a qual declarou que o presidente estava padecendo da "demencia dos touros", urn genero que ele pretendia estudar, corn grande vantagem para os povos. A Camara a principio hesitou, mas acabou cedendo.

Dal em diante foi uma coleta desenfreada. Urn homem nao podia dar nascenca ou curso a mais simples mentira do mundo, ainda daquelas que aproveitam ao inventor ou divulgador, que nao fosse logo metido na Casa Verde. Tudo era loucura. Os cultores de enigmas, os fabricantes de charadas, de anagramas, os maldizentes, os curiosos da vida alheia, os que poem todo o seu cuidado na tafularia, urn ou outro almotace enfunado, ningudm escapava aos emissarios do alienista. Etc respeitava as namoradas e nao poupava as namoradeiras, dizendo que as primeiras cediam a urn impulso natural e as segundas a urn vicio.

Se um homem era avaro ou pr6digo, ia do mesmo modo para a Casa Verde; dai a alegacao de que nao havia regra para a completa sanidade mental. Alguns cronistas creem que Simao Bacamarte nem sempre procedia corn lisura, e citam em abono da afirmacao (que nab sei se pode ser aceita) o fato de ter alcancado da Camara uma postura autorizando o uso de urn and de prata no dedo polegar da mac, esquerda, a toda a pessoa que, sem outra prova documental ou tradicional, declarasse ter nas veias duas ou tres micas de sangue godo. Dizem esses cronistas BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

que o fim secreto da insinuacao a camara foi enriquecer um ourives amigo e compadre dele; mas, conquanto seja certo que o ouvires viu prosperar o negocio depois da nova ordenacao municipal, nao o é menos que essa postura deu a Casa Verde uma multidao de inquilinos; pelo que, nao se pode definir, sem temeridade, o verdadeiro fim do ilustre medico. Quanto a razao determinativa da captura e aposentacao na Casa Verde de todos quantos usaram do anel, e urn dos pontos mais obscuros da histOria de Itaguai; a opiniao mais verossimil é que eles foram recolhidos por andarem a gesticular, a toa, nas ruas, em casa, na igreja. Ninguem ignora que os doidos gesticulam muito. Em todo caso, é uma simples conjetura; de positivo, nada ha.

— Onde d que este homem vai parar? diziam os principais da terra. Ah! se nos tivessemos apoiado os Cangicas...

Urn dia de manha — dia em que a camara devia dar um grande baile, — a vila inteira ficou abalada corn a noticia de que a prOpria esposa do alienista fora metida na Casa Verde. Ninguem acreditou; devia ser invencao de algum gaiata. E !lac) era: era verdade pura. D. Evarista fora recolhida As duas horas da noite.

0 padre Lopes correu ao alienista e interrogou-o discretamente acerca do fato.

— Já ha algum tempo que eu desconfiava, disse gravemente o marido. A modestia corn que ela vivera em ambos os matrimonios nao podia conciliar-se corn o furor das sedas, veludos, rendas e pedras preciosas que manifestou logo que voltou do Rio de Janeiro. Desde entao comecei a observa-la.

Suas conversas eram todas sobre esses objetos; se eu lhe falava das antigas cortes, inquiria logo da forma dos vestidos das damas; se uma senhora a visitava na minha ausencia, antes de me dizer o objeto tla visita, descrevia-me o trajo, aprovando umas coisas e censurando outras. Um dia, creio que Vossa Reverendissima ha de lembrar-se, propos-se a fazer anualmente urn vestido para a imagem de Nossa Senhora da matriz. Tudo isto eram sintomas graves; esta noite, porem, declarou-se a total demencia. Tinha escolhido, preparado, enfeitado o vestuario que levaria ao baile da camara municipal; so hesitava entre um colar de granadas e outro de safira. Anteontem perguntou-me qual deles levaria; respondi-lhe que um ou outro ficava bem.

Ontem repetiu a pergunta ao almoco; pouco depois de jantar fui acha-la calada e pensativa. — Que tern? perguntei-lhe. — Queria levar o colar de granada, mas acho ode safira tao bonito!

— Pois leve o de safira. — Ah! mas onde fica o de granada? — Enfim, passou a tarde sem novidades. Ceamos, e deitamo-nos.

Alta noite, seria hora e meia, acordo e tido a vejo; levanto-me, you ao quarto de vestir, acho-a diante dos doiscolares, ensaiandoos ao espelho, ora urn ora outro. Era evidente a demencia; recolhi-a logo.

0 padre Lopes nao se satisfez corn a resposta, mas nao objetou nada. 0 alienista, porem, percebeu e explicou-lhe que o caso de D. Evarista era de "mania suntuaria", nao incuravel e ern todo caso digno de estudo.

— Conto po-la boa dentro de seis semanas, concluiu ele.

E a abnegacao do ilustre medico deu-lhe grande realce.

Conjeturas, invencOes, desconfiancas, tudo caiu por terra desde que ele nao duvidou recolher a Casa Verde a prepria mulher, a quem amava corn todas as for-gas da alma. Ninguem mais tinha o direito de resistir-lhe — menos ainda ode atribuir-lhe intuitos alheios a ciencia.

Era um grande homem austero, HipOcrates forrado de Catao.

XI 0 Assombro de Itaguai E agora prepare-se o leitor para o mesmo assombro em que ficou a vila ao saber que urn dia os loucos da Casa Verde iam todos ser postos na rua.

—Todos?

— Todos.

— E impossivel; alguns sim, mas todos...

— Todos. Assim o disse ele no oficio que mandou hoje de manila- a Camara.

De fato o alienista oficiara a camara expondo: — I.° que verificara das estatisticas da vila e da Casa Verde que quatro quintos da populacao estavam aposentados naquele estabelecimento; 2.° que esta deslocacao de populacao levara-o a examinar os fundamentos da sua teoria das moldstias cerebrais, teoria que excluia da razao todos os casos em que o equilibrio das faculdades nao fosse perfeito e absoluto; 3.0 que, desse exame e do fato estatistico, resultara para ele a conviccao de que BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

a verdadeira doutrina nao era aquela, mas a oposta, e portanto, que se devia admitir como normal e exemplar o desequilibrio das faculdades como hipoteses patolOgicas todos os casos em que aquele equilibrio fosse ininterrupto; 4.° que a vista disso declarava a Camara que ia dar liberdade aos reclusos da Casa Verde e agasalhar nela as pessoas que se achassem nas condicOes agora expostas; 5. ° que, tratando de descobrir a verdade cientifica, nao se pouparia a esforcos de toda a natureza, esperando da camara igual dedicacao; 6.° que restituia a Camara e aos particulares a soma do estipendio recebido para alojamento dos supostos loueos, descontada a parte efetivamente gasta corn a alimentacao, roupa, etc; o que a camara mandaria verificar nos livros e arcas da Casa Verde.

0 assombro de Itaguai foi grande; nao foi menor a alegria dos parentes e amigos dos reclusos. Jantares, dancas, luminarias, masicas, tudo houve para celebrar tao fausto acontecimento.

Nao descrevo as festas por nao interessarem ao nosso prop6sito; mas foram esplendidas, tocantes e prolongadas.

E vao assim as coisas humanas! No meio do regozijo produzido pelo oficio de Simao Bacamarte, ninguem advertia na frase final do § 4.°; uma frase cheia de experiencias futuras.

XII 0 final do § 4.° Apagaram-se as luminarias, reconstituiram-se as familias, tudo parecia reposto nos antigos eixos. Reinava a ordem, a Camara exercia outra vez o governo sem nenhuma pressao externa; o presidente e o vereador Freitas tornaram a seus lugares. 0 barbeiro Porfirio, ensinado pelos acontecimentos, tendo "provado tudo", como o poeta disse de Napoleao, e mais alguma coisa, porque Napoleao nao provou a Casa Verde, o barbeiro achou preferivel a &Oda obscura da navalha e da tesoura As calamidades brilhantes do poder; foi, e certo, processado; mas a populacao da vila implorou a clemencia de Sua Majestade; dal o perdao. Joao Pina foi absolvido, atendendose a que ele derrocara um rebelde. Os cronistas pensam que deste fato é que nasceu o nosso adagio: — ladrao que furta a ladrao tern cem anos de perdao; — adagio imoral, d verdade, mas grandemente Nao sdo findaram as queixas contra o alienista, mas ate nenhum ressentimento ficou dos atos que ele praticara; acrescendo qu os reclusos da Casa Verde, desde que ele os declarara ple amente ajuizados, sentiram-se tornados de profundo rec nhecimento e fdrvido entusiasmo. Muitos entenderam qu o alienista merecia uma especial manifestacao e deram-lhe ui baile, ao qual se seguiram outros bailes e jantares. Dizerh as cronicas que D. Evarista a principio tivera ideia de separar-se do consorte, mas a dor de perder a companhia de.tao grande homem venceu qualquer ressentimento de amorprOprio e o casal veio a ser ainda mais feliz do que antes.

Nao menos Intima ficou a amizade do alienista e do boticario.

Este concluiu o oficio de Simao Bacamarte que a prudencia a primeira das virtudes em tempos de revolucao e apreciou muito a magnanimidade do alienista, que ao dar-lhe a liberdade estendep-lhe a mao de amigo velho.

— E urn grande homem, disse ele a mulher, referindo-se aquela circunstancia.

Nao C preciso falar do albardeiro, do Costa, do Coelho, do Martim Brito e outros especialmente nomeados neste escrito; basta dizer que puderam exercer livremente os seus habitos anteriores. 0 proprio Martim Brito, recluso por um discurso em que louvara enfaticamente D. Evarista, fez agora outro em honra do insigne medico — "cujo altissimo genio, elevando as asas muito acima do sol, deixou debaixo de si todos os demais espiritos da terra".

— Agradqo as suas palavras, retorquiu-lhe o alienista, e ainda nao me arrependo de o haver restituido A liberdade.

Entretanto,1 a camara, que respondera ao oficio de Simao Bacamarte corn a ressalva de que oportunamente estatuiria em relacao ao final do § 4. 0 , tratou enfim de legislar sobre ele. Foi adotada sem debate uma postura, autorizando o alienista a agasalhar na Casa Verde as pessoas que se achassem no gozo do perfeito equilibrio das faculdades mentais. E porque a experiencia da camara tivesse sido dolorosa, estabeleceu ela a clausula de que a autorizacao era provisoria, limitada a urn ano, para o fim de ser experimentada a nova teoria psicologica, podendo a camara, antes mesmo daquele prazo mandar fechar a Casa Verde, se a isso fosse aconselhada por motivos de ordem 31

pUblica. 0 vereador Freitas prop6s tambem a declaracdo de que, em nenhum caso, fossem os vereadores recolhidos ao asilo dos alienados: cldusula que foi aceita, votada e incluida na postura apesar das reclamaeOes do vereador Galva°. 0 argumento principal deste magistrado e que a Camara, legislando sobre uma experiencia cientifica, tido podia excluir as pessoas dos seus membros das conseqiiencias da lei; a exceed() era odiosa e ridicula. Mal proferira esta duas palavras, romperam os vereadores em altos brados contra a audacia e insensatez do colega; este, porem, ouviu-os e limitou-se a dizer que votava contra a exceed°.

— A vereanca, concluiu ele, ndo nos dá nenhum poder especial nem nos elimina do espirito humano.

Simdo Bacamarte aceitou a postura corn todas as restrieOes. Quanto a exclusdo dos vereadores, declarou que teria profundo sentimento se fosse compelido a recolhe-los A Casa Verde; a clausula porem, era a melhor prova de que ele ndo padeciam do perfeito equilibrio das faculdades mentais. Nao acontecia o mesmo ao vereador Galvdo, cujo acerto na objeedo feita, e cuja moderaedo na resposta dada as invectivas dos colegas mostravam da parte dele um cerebro bem organizado; pelo que rogava A camara que lho entregasse. A Camara, sentindo-se ainda agravada pelo proceder do vereador Galva°, estimou o pedido do alienista e votou unanimemente a entrega.

Compreende-se que, pela teoria nova, ilk) bastava urn fato ou urn dito para recolher alguem A Casa Verde; era preciso urn longo exame, urn vasto inquerito do passado e do presente. 0 padre Lopes, por exemplo, sO foi capturado trinta dias depois da postura, a mulher do boticario quarenta dias. A reclusdo desta senhora encheu o consorte de indignacdo. Crispim Soares saiu de casa espumando de colerae declarando As pessoas a quern encontrava que ia arrancar as orelhas ao tirano. Urn sujeito, adversdrio do alienista, ouvindo na rua essa noticia, esqueceu os motivos da dissidencia, e correu a casa de Simdo Bacamarte a participar-lhe o perigo que corria. Slink) Bacamarte mostrou-se grato ao procedimento do adversdrio, e poucos minutos I he bastaram para conhecer a retiddo dos seus sentunentos, a boa fe, o resperto human°, a generosidade; apertou-lhe muito as mdos e recolheu-o A Casa Verde.

—Urn caso deste é raro, disse ele A'mulher pasmada. Agora esperemos o nosso Crispim.

Crispim Soares entrou. A dor vencera a raiva, o boticario ndo arrancou as orelhas do alienista. Este consolou o seu privado, assegurando-lhe que Lido era caso perdido; talvez a mulher tivesse alguma lesdo cerebral; ia examind-la corn muita atenedo; mas antes disso ndo podia deixd-la na rua. E, parecendolhe vantajoso reuni-los, porque a astiicia e velhacaria do mar.ido poderiam de certo modo curar a beleza moral que ele descobrira na esposa, disse Simdo Bacamarte: —0 senhor trabalhard durante o dia na botica, mas almoeard e jantard corn sua mulher, e cá passard as noites, e os domingos e dias santos.

A proposta colocou o pobre boticario na situaedo do asno de Buridan. Queria viver corn a mulher, mas temia voltar a Casa Verde; e nessa luta esteve algum tempo, ate que D. Evarista o tirou da dificuldade, prometendo que se incumbiria de ver a amiga e transmitiria os recados de urn para outro. Crispim Soares beijou-lhe as mdos agradecido. Este Ultimo rasgo de egoismo pusildnime pareceu sublime ao alienista.

Ao cabo de cinco meses estavam alojadas umas dezoito pessoas; mas Simao Bacamarte ndo afrouxava; ia de rua em rua, de casa ern casa, espreitando, interrogando, estudando; e quando colhia urn enfermo levava-o corn a mesma alegria corn que outrora os arrebanhava As duzias. Essa mesma desproporedo confirmava a teoria nova; achara-se enfim a verdadeira patologia cerebral. Urn dia conseguiu meter na Casa Verde o juiz de fora; mas procedia corn tanto escrOpulo que ndo o fez sendo depois de estudar minuciosamente todos os seus atos e interrogar os principais da vila. Mais de uma vez esteve prestes a recolher pessoas perfeitamente desequilibradas; foi o que se deu corn um advogado, em que reconheceu urn tal conjunto de qualidades morais e mentais que era perigoso deixd-lo na rua. Mandou prende-lo; mas o agente desconfiado, pediu-lhe para fazer uma experiencia; foi ter corn um compadre, demandado por urn testamento falso, e deu-lhe de conselho que tomasse por advogado o Salustiano; era o nome da pessoa ern questa°.

32

— Entdo, parece-lhe...?

— Sem dirvida: vd, confesse tudo, a verdade inteira, seja qual for, e confie-lhe a causa.

0 homem foi ter corn o advogado, confessou ter falsificado o testamento e acabou pedindo que lhe tomasse a causa. Ndo se negou o advogado; estudou os papeis, arrazoou longamente, e provou a todas as luzes que o testamento era mais que verdadeiro.

A inocencia do reu foi solenemente proclamada pelo juiz e a heranea passou-lhe As mdos. 0 distinto jurisconsulto deveu a esta experiencia a liberdade.

Mas nada escapa a urn espirito original e penetrante. Simdo Bacamarte, que desde algum tempo notava o zelo, a sagacidade, paciencia, a moderaedo daquele agente, reconheceu a habilidade e o tino corn que ele levara a cabo uma experiencia tdo melindrosa e complicada, e determinou recolhe-lo imediatamente A Casa Verde; deu-lhe todavia urn dos melhores cubiculos.

Os alienados foram alojados por classes. Fez-se uma galeria de modestos; isto 6, os loucos em quern predominava esta perfeicdo moral; outra de tolerantes, outra de veridicos, outra de simplices, outra de leais, outra de magnanimos, outra de sagazes, outra de sinceros, etc. Naturalmente as familias e os amigos dos reclusos bradavam contra a teoria; e alguns tentaram compelir a camara a cassar a licenca. A Camara, porem, ndo esquecera a linguagem do vereador Galvdo, e se cassasse a licenea, ve-lo-ia na rua e restituido ao lugar; pelo que, recusou.

Simdo Bacamarte oficiou aos vereadores, nao agradecendo, mas felicitando-os por esse ato de vinganea pessoal.

Desenganados da legalidade, lguns principais da vila recorreram secretamente ao barbeiro Porfirio e afianearam-lhe todo o apoio de gente, de dinheiro e influencia na corte, se ele se pusesse A testa de outro movimento contra a cdmara e o alienista. 0 barbeiro respondeu-lhes que nao; que a ambled° o levara da primeiravez atransgredir as leis, mas que ele se emendara, reconhecendo o erro preprio e a pouca consistencia da opinido dos seus mesmos sequazes; que a Camara entendera autorizar a nova experiencia do alienista, por urn ano; cumpria, ou esperar o fim do prazo, ou requerer ao vicerei, caso a mesma camara rejeitasse o pedido. Jamais aconselharia o emprego de um recurso que ele viu falhar em suas mdos e isso a troco de mortes e ferimentos que seriam o seu eterno remorso.

— 0 que é que esta me dizendo? perguntou o alienista quando urn agente secreto Ihe contou a conversaedo do barbeiro corn os principais da vila.

Dois dias depois o barbeiro era recolhido a Casa Verde. — Preso por ter cdo; preso por ndo ter cdo! exclamou o infeliz.

Chegou o fim do prazo, a camara autorizou urn prazo suplementar de seis meses para ensaio dos meios terapeuticos.

0 desfecho deste epis6dio da cronica itaguaiense é de tal ordem, e tdo inesperado, que merecia nada menos de dez capitulos de exposiedo; mas contento-me corn um, que sera o remate da narrativa, e urn dos mais belos exemplos de conviccdo cientifica e abnegaedo humana.

XIII PLUS ULTRA Era a vez da terapeutica. Simdo Bacamarte, ativo e sagaz em descobrir enfermos, excedeu-se ainda na diligencia e penetracdo corn que principiou a tratd-los. Neste ponto todos os cronistas estdo de pleno acordo: o ilustre alienista fez curas pasmosas, que excitaram a mais viva admiracdo em Itaguai.

Corn efeito, era dificil imaginar mais racional sistema terapeutico. Estando os loucos divididos por classes, segundo a perfeicao moral que em cada urn deles excedia As outras, Simdo Bacamarte cuidou de atacar de frente a qualidade predominante.

Suponhamos urn modesto. Ele aplicava a medicacdo que pudesse incutir-lhe o sentimento oposto; e ndo ia logo As doses maximas, — graduava-as, conforme o estado, a idade, o temperamento, a posiedo social do enfermo. As vezes bastava uma casaca, uma fita, uma cabeleira, uma bengala para restituir a razdo ao alienado; em outros casos a molestia era mais rebelde; recorria entdo aos antis de brilhante, As distinc6es honorificas, etc.

Houve urn doente poeta que resistiu a tudo. Simao Bacamarte comeeava a desesperar da cura, quando teve de mandar correr matraca para o fim de o apregoar como urn rival de Garedo e de Pindaro.

BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

— Foi urn santo remedio, contava a mae do infeliz a uma comadre; foi urn santo remedio.

Outro doente, tambem modesto, opOs a mesma rebeldia a medicacao; mas, nao sendo escritor (mal sabia assinar o nome), nao se the podia aplicar o remedio da matraca. Simao Bacamarte lembrou-se de pedir para ele o lugar de secretario na Academia dos Encobertos, estabelecida em Itaguai. Os lugares de presidente e secretarios eram de nomeacao regia, por especial graca do finado rei Dom Joao V, e implicavam o tratamento de Excelencia e o uso de uma placa de ouro no chapeu. 0 governo de Lisboa recusou o diploma; mas representando o alienista que o nao pedia como premio honorifico ou distincao legitima, e somente como urn meio teiapeutico para urn caso dificil, o governo cedeu excepcionalmente a stiplica; e ainda assim nao o fez sem extraordinario esforco do ministro da marinha e ultramar, que vinha a ser primo do alienado. Foi outro santo remedio.

— Realmente, é admiravel! dizia-se nas ruas, ao ver a expressao sadia e enfunada dos dois ex-dementes.

Tal era o sistema. Imagina-se o resto. Cada beleza moral ou mental era atacada no ponto em que a perfeicao parecia mais solida; e o efeito era certo. Nem sempre era certo. Casos houve em que a qualidade predominante resistia a tudo; entao o alienista atacava outra parte, aplicando a terapeutica o metodo da estrategia mi I itar, que toma uma fortaleza por um ponto, se por outro o nao pode conseguir.

No fim de cinco meses estava vazia a Casa Verde; todos curados! 0 vereador Galvao, tao cruelmente afligido de moderacao e eqUidade, teve a facilidade de perder um tio; digo felicidade, porque o tio deixou urn testamento ambiguo e ele obteve uma boa interpretacao corrompendo os juizes e embacando os outros herdeiros. A sinceridade do alienista manifestou-se neste lance; confessou ingenuamente que nao teve parte na cura: foi a simples vis medicatrix da natureza. Nao aconteceu o mesmo corn o padre Lopes. Sabendo o alienista que ele ignorava perfeitamente o hebraico e o grego, incumbiu-o de fazer uma analise critica da versa° dos setenta; o padre aceitou a incumbencia, e em boa hora o fez; ao cabo de dois meses possuia urn livro e a liberdade. Quanto a senhora do boticario, nao ficou muito tempo na celula que lhe coube, e onde alias lhe nao faltaram carinho.

— Por que é que o Crispim nao vem visitar-me? dizia ela todos os dias.

Respondiam-!he ora uma coisa, oura outra; afinal disseramlhe a verdade inteira. A digna matrona nao Ode conter a indignacao e a vergonha. Nas explosOes de colera escaparamlhe expressOes soltas e vagas, como estas: —Tratante!... velhaco !... ingrato!... Um patife que tern feito casas A custas de ungiientos falsificados e podres... Ah! tratante!...

Simao Bacamarte advertiu que, ainda quando nao fosse verdadeira a acusacao contida nestas palavras, bastavam elas para mostrar que a excelente senhora estava enfim restituida ao perfeito desequilibrio das faculdades; e prontamente !he deu alta.

Agora, se imaginais que o alienista ficou radiante ao ver sair o Ultimo hospede da Casa Verde, mostrais com isso que ainda nao conheceis o nosso homem. Plus ultra! era a sua divisa. Nao the bastava ter descoberto a teoria verdadeira da loucura; nao 6 contentava ter estabelecido em Itaguai o reinado da razao. Plus ultra! Nao ficou alegre, ficou preocupado, cogitativo; alguma coisa Ihe dizia que a teoria nova tinha, em si mesma, outra e novissima teoria.

— Vejamos, pensava ele; vejamos se chego enfim A Ultima verdade.

Dizia isto, passeando ao longo da vasta sala, onde fulgurava a mais rica biblioteca dos dominios ultramarinos de Sua Majestade. Urn amplo chambre de damasco, preso A cintura por urn cordao de seda, corn borlas de ouro (presente de uma Universidade) envolvia o corpo majestoso e austero do ilustre alienista. A cabeleira cobria-!he uma extensa e nobre calva adquirida nas cogitacOes quotidianas da ciencia. Os pes, nao delgados e femininos, nao grauclos e mariolas, mas proporcionados ao vulto, eram resguardados por um par de sapatos cuj as fivelas nao passavam de simples e modesto latao.

Vede a diferenca: — s6 se Ihe notava luxo naquilo que era de origem cientifica; o que propriamente vinha dele trazia a cor da moderacao e da singeleza, virtudes tao ajustadas a pessoa de urn sabio.

Era assim que ele ia, o grande alienista, de urn cabo a outro da vasta biblioteca, metido em si mesmo, estranho a todas as coisas que nao fossem o tenebroso problemas da patologia BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

cerebral. Subito, parou. Em pe, diante de uma janela, corn o cotovelo esquerdo apoiado na mao direita, aberta, e o queixo na mao esquerda, fechada, perguntou ele a si: — Mas deveras estariam ele doidos, e foram curados por mim, — ou o que pareceu cura nao foi mais do que a descoberta do perfeito desequilibrio do cerebro?

E cavando por ai abaixo, eis o resultado a que chegou: os cerebros bem organizados que ele acabara de curar, eram desequilibrados como os outros. Sim, dizia ele consigo, eu nao posso ter a pretensao de haver-!her incutido urn sentimento ou uma faculdade nova; uma e outra coisa existiam no estado latente, mas existiam.

Chegado a esta conclusao, o ilustre alienista teve duas sensacOes contrarias, uma de gozo, outra de abatimento. A de gozo foi por ver que, ao cabo de longas e pacientes investigagOes, constantes trabalhos, luta ingente corn o povo, podia afirmar esta verdade: — nao havia loucos em Itaguai; Itaguai nao possuia urn so mentecapto. Mas tao depressa esta ideia !he refrescara a alma, outra apareceu que neutralizou o primeiro efeito; foi a ideia da cluvida. Pois que! Itaguai ndo possuiria urn Calico cerebro concertado? Esta conclusao tao absoluta, nao seria por isso mesmo erronea, e nao vinha, portanto, destruir o largo e majestoso edificio da nova doutrina psicologica?

A aflicao do egregio Simao Bacamarte é definida pelos cronistas itaguaienses como uma das mais medonhas tempestades morais que tern desabado sobre o homem. Mas as tempestades s6 aterram os fracos; os fortes enrijam-se contra elas e fitam o trovao. Vinte minutos depois alumiou-se a fisionomia do alienista de uma suave claridade.

Sim, ha de ser isso, pensou ele.

Isso é isto. Simao Bacamarte achou em si os caracteristicos do perfeito equilibrio mental e moral; pareceu-lhe que possuia a sagacidade, a paciencia, a perseveranca, a tolerancia, a veracidade, o vigor moral, a lealdade, todas as qualidades enfim que podem formar um acabado mentecapto. Duvidou logo, é certo, e chegou mesmo a concluir que era ilusao; mas, sendo homem prudente, resolveu convocar urn conselho de amigos, a quem interrogou corn franqueza. A opiniao nao foi afirmativa.

— Nenhum defeito?

— Nenhum, disse em coro a assembldia.

— Nenhum vicio?

— Nada.

— Tudo perfeito?

— Tudo.

— Nao, impossivel, bradou o alienista. Digo que nao sinto em mim esta superioridade que acabo de ver definir com tanto magnificencia. A simpatia é que vos faz falar. Estudo-me e nada acho que justifique os excessos da vossa bondade.

A assembleia insistiu; o alienista resistiu; finalmente o padre Lopes explicou corn este conceito digno de urn observador: — Sabe a razao por que nAo ye as suas elevadas qualidades, que alias todos nos admiramos? E porque tern ainda uma qualidade que realca as outras: — a modestia.

Era decisivo, Simao Bacamarte curvou a cabeca juntamente alegre e triste, e ainda mais alegre do que triste. Ato continuo, recolheu-se a Casa Verde. Em vao a mulher e os amigos lhe disseram que ficasse, que estava perfeitamente sac, e equilibrado: nem rogos nem sugestaes nem lagrimas o detiveram um s6 instante.

— A questao é cientifica, dizia ele; trata-se de uma doutrina nova, cujo primeiro exemplo sou eu. Reimo em mim mesmo a teoria e a pratica.

— Simao! Simao! meu amor! dizia-lhe a esposa corn o rosto favado em lagrimas.

Mas o ilustre medico, com os olhos acesos da conviccao cientifica, trancou os ouvidos a saudade da mulher, e brandamente a repeliu. Fechada a porta da Casa Verde, entregou-se ao estudo e A cura de si mesmo. Dizem os cronistas que ele morreu dali a dezessete meses, no mesmo estado em que entrou, sem ter podido alcancar nada. Alguns chegaram ao ponto de conjeturar que nunca houve outro louco alem dele em Itaguai; mas esta opiniao, fundada em urn boato que correu desde que o alienista expirou, nao tern outra prova senao o boato; e boato duvidoso, pois é atribuido ao padre Lopes, que corn tanto fogo realcara as qualidades do grande homem. Seja como for, efetuou-se o enterro corn muita pompa e rara solenidade.

Third of three parts. 0 Alien ista was originally published in Papeis Avulsos, a collection of short stories by Machado de Assis.

33

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Goldmade towns Saba,* Con_gonhas, Mariana, Sao Joao del Rei, Tiradentes, Diamantina.

The historical cities of Minas Gerais seem endless in their charm and awe-inspiring beauty.

This is the second article in a series of three about Minas Gerais. The first one dealt with Ouro Preto, a historic colonial city.

No one really knows when gold was first discovered in the backwoods of Minas Gerais. But sometime around 1695, bandeirantes, groups of explorers from Sao Paulo in search of Indian slaves and precious metals, saw gold along the banks and in the beds of rivers flowing from Brazil's oldest mountains. The gold deposits were called faisqueiras (sparkles) because the larger pieces were actually visible and all the miner had to do was pick them up.

Soon the word was out. Brazilians flocked to Minas Gerais and Portuguese immigrated to Brazil. The two groups soon fought over land claims in the Guerra dos Emboabas. Slaves were brought from the sugar fields of Bahia and the savannas of Angola, as few Whites did their own mining. Until the last quarter of the 18th century the slaves of Minas Gerais were digging up half the world's gold.

Over 100 years before the Californian and Australian gold rushes, Brazil's gold rush was just as crazy, wild and violent. Disease and famine were rampant. The mine towns were known for their licentiousness, and prostitutes such as the famous Chica da Silva in Diamantina have been immortalized in the cinema.

Merchants and colonial officials became rich as did a few gold miners. Gold siphoned off to Portugal ended up feeding England's Industrial Revolution, and so the only lasting benefits to come to Brazil were the development of Rio de Janeiro, the main port for the gold, and the creation of the beautiful, church-clad mining cities that dot the hills of Minas Gerais. Ouro Preto was the most splendid of these. Vila Rica de Ouro Preto (Rich Town of Black Gold), as it was known, grew to 100,000 people and became the richest city in the New World.

BRAZZIL -JULY 1996

Climate Minas Gerais has two distinct seasons: wet from October to February and dry from March to September.

The rainy season is characterized by almost daily downpours, but they rarely last for long, and although it is warm it is still much cooler than the heat of Rio. The dry season is cdol, and from July to September it can actually get cold. There is often fog during September and October.

Even dtiring the rainy season, travel —with umbrella — is quite practical, with one proviso: from December to February Ouro Preto, Brazil's most splendid colonial city, is deluged by tourists, who can be more of a nuisance than the rain.

Economy Unlike many places, Minas Gerais (General Mines) wears its name well. Minas produces more iron, tin, diamonds, zinc, quartz and phosphates than any other state in Brazil. It has one of the world's largest reserves of iron. The industrial growth rate of the state has been well above the national average over the past few years and the state should soon pass Rio de Janeiro as the second most powerful economy behind Sao Paulo. Belo Horizonte is the site of a large Fiat automobile plant.

Minas is known for its high milk and cheese production. The agriculture sector is diverse and strong, with fruit and cattle as well.

BELO HORIZONTE Belo is the capital of mineral-rich Minas Gerais state.

It's a rapidly industrializing city, founded in 1897 and already the third largest city in the country. A planned city, it's a giant sprawling affair surrounded by hills which lock in the thick, grayblack layers of smog. Belo has nothing of special interest for the visitor, most travelers who stop here are on their way to Ouro Preto or Diamantina, with perhaps the occasional soul heading to Brasilia.

Most travelers, as soon as they hit the historical cities, regret having spent any time at all in Belo Horizonte.

But if you find yourself here with time to spare, there are a couple of museums worth a visit.

Museu de Mineralogia — If you've got rocks on your mind, the 5000 specimens here will really help you get your rocks off. In an appropriately curious gothic building at Rua da Bahia 1149, the displays include replicas of all the world's largest diamonds, meteorites and rough diamonds, and some of the largest crystals you'll ever see.

Museu Historic° Abilio Barreto — In an old colonial farmhouse, this museum is all that remains of the town of Curral del Rey, on which Belo Horizonte was built. It contains a fascinating archive of old photographs as well as other assorted historical bric-a-brac. It's at Rua Bernardo Mascarenhas, in Cidade Jardim.

Pampulha — Fans of Oscar Niemeyer won't want to miss his creations in the suburb of Pampulha, in the north of the city around a large lake. There's the Igreja de Sao Francisco de Assis, built in the 1940s, and the Museu de Arte de Belo Horizonte, among others.

35

Gruta de Maquine — An interesting day trip from Belo Horizonte is to the Gruta de Maquine. The most famous of Minas' many caves, this one is a popular tourist destination.

The seven huge chambers of the cave are well lit for guided tours to pass through.

Historical Towns SABARA Sabard stands on the muddy banks of the Rio das Velhas (Old Ladies' River). It was the first major gold-mining center in the state, and during its peak was one of the world's wealthiest towns. This is reflected in its houses, mansions, churches, statues, water fountains and sacred art. It's now a poor town dominated by a Belgian metal works. In the boom years of the early 1700s, when the Rio das Velhas was 15 times wider, slave boats would sail all the way down the Rio Sao Francisco from Bahia. Sabard produced more gold in one week than the rest of Brazil produced in one year. You can still pan the river bed for gold flakes, but the nuggets are long since gone.

Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Conceicio — The Portuguese Jesuits, cultural ambassadors of the far-flung Portuguese Empire, were among the first Westerners to make contact with the Orient. As a result, the Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Conceiedo (1720) is a fascinating blend of Oriental arts and Portuguese baroque — overwhelming with its gold leaf and red Chinese scrolls.

Restationed in Brazil, the Jesuits brought the Oriental arts to Sabard, as is evident in the pagodas on some of the church door panels by the sanctuary.

There are several other interesting little details in the church. Floorboards cover the graves of early church members. Gold and silver nuggets nailed on these tablets indicate whether the deceased was rich or poor.

On the ceiling of the church is the patron saint of confessors, John Nepomuceno of 14th-century Czechoslovakia, who is shown holding his tongue. King Wenceslau ordered St. Nepomuceno's tongue cut out because the saint refused to reveal whether or not the Moldavian queen was faithful. Nepomuceno died of his wound but became very popular posthumously in Czechoslovakian cult circles and, inexplicably, in Minas Gerais 36

during the gold era. Note the little angel at his side shushing churchgoers with a finger to his lips.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do 6 - Captain Lucas Ribeiro de Almeida survived an attack by his own troops in 1720 and built a chapel in thanks to the Virgin Mary. Like Nossa Senhora da Conceiedo, the chapel has Oriental details, and is just as popular with pregnant women (and those praying for fertility). Plain on the outside, gilded on the inside, the chapel gives no clues as to the meaning of its name, Our Lady of 0.

Only half built, this church on Praca Melo Viana was started and financed by slaves but never got finished. It now stands as a memorial to the abolition of slavery in 1888.

Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo — Aleijadinho had a lot to do with the decoration of this church. His touch is everywhere, especially in the faces of the statues of Sdo Simao and Sao Joao da Cruz. It's on Rua do Carmo.

0 Teatro Imperial — Sabard has an elegant old opera house, 0 Teatro Imperial (1770). The crystal lamps and three tiers of seats in carved wood and bamboo cane are testimony to the wealth of days gone by. On Rua Dom Pedro H. Gold Museum — Housed in an old gold foundry (1730), the Gold Museum, on Rua da Intendencia, contains art and artifacts of Sabard' s glory years, mostly related to the gold-mining industry.

CONGONHAS Little is left of Congonhas' colonial past except the extraordinary Prophets of Aleijadinho at the Basilica do Born Jesus de Matosinhos. While the town is commonplace, these dramatic statues are exceptional. They are Aleijadinho's masterpiece and Brazil's most famed work of art. It's worth taking the trouble to get to Congonhas just to see them. Congonhas is 72 km south of Belo Horizonte, three km off BR-040. The city grew up with the search for gold in the nearby Rio Maranhao and is set in a broad valley. The economy today is dominated by iron mining in the surrounding countryside.

The 12 Prophets — Already an old man, sick and crippled, Aleijadinho sculpted the Prophets from 1800 to 1805. Symmetrically placed in front of the Basilica do Born Jesus de Matosinhos, each of the prophets from the Old Testament was carved out of one or two blocks of soapstone. Each carries a message: six of them are good, six bad, and all are in Latin.

Much has been written about these sculptures: their dynamic quality, the sense of movement (many talk of the appearance they give of a Hindu dance or a ballet), how they complement each other and how their arrangement in front of the church prevents them from being seen in isolation. The poet Carlos Drummond de Andrade wrote that the dramatic faces and gestures are "magnificent, terrible, grave and tender" and commented on "the way the statues, of human size, appear to be larger than life as they look down upon the viewer with the sky behind them."

Before working on the Prophets, Aleijadinho carved or supervised his assistants in carving the wooden statues which were placed in the six little chapels that represent the Passion of Christ: The Last Supper, Calvary, Imprisonment, Flagellation and Coronation, Carrying of the Cross and The Crucifixion.

Some of the figures, like the Roman soldiers, are very crude and clearly done by assistants, while others are finely chiseled. The statues were restored in 1957 by the painter Edson Mota and the gardens were designed by Burle Marx.

Festivals —From 7 to 14 September the Jubileu do Senhor Born Jesus do Matosinhos is one of the great religious festivals in Minas Gerais. Each year, approximately 600,000 pilgrims arrive at the church to make promises and do penitence, receive blessings and give

and receive alms. The Holy Week processions in Congonhas are also famous, especially the dramatizations on Good Friday.

Around Ouro Preto Minas de Passagem — I got a kick out of Minas de Passagem. It is probably the best gold mine to visit in the Ouro Preto region. The immense system of tunnels goes way down deep, then spreads horizontally. Only a fraction of the mine is open to the public, but for most terrestrials it's enough. The descent into the mine is made in an antique, steam-powered cable car (though the guide is quick to assure you that the cable itself is new) that gives you a very good idea of just how dangerous and claustrophobic mining can be.

The mine was opened in 1719. Until the abolition of slavery it was worked by Black slaves, many of whom died (not from the cable car ride as you might think after taking it, but from the job of dynamiting into the rock). My guide, who had been working in the mine as recently as 1985, and was then earning the minimum wage of $35 a month, told us that the life of the 'free' miner was little better than that of the slave.

The mandatory guided tour, led by former miners, is short and quite informative, especially if someone in the group asks the right questions. The mine is between Ouro Preto and Mariana. Take any local bus that runs between the two and ask the driver to let you off at Minas de Passagem.

MARIANA Mariana is a beautiful old mining town with a character unlike its busy neighbor, Ouro Preto. Only 12 km by paved road from Ouro Preto, Mariana is touristed but not overrun.

Founded in 1696, it retains the high-altitude tranquillity of many of the mining towns and is a great place in which to unwind. It's also a good place in which to stay if you want to avoid Ouro Preto by night.

Things to See — There are plenty of interesting sights. The 18th-century churches of Sao Pedro dos Clerigos, Nossa Senhora da Assuncao, Sdo Francisco, and the Catedral Basilica da Se, with its fantastic German organ dating from 1701, are all worth while. The museum at Casa Capitular is also worth a look. While walking through the old part of town, BFtAZZIL -JULY 1996

you'll come across painters and wood sculptors at work in their studios.

SAO JOAO DEL REI One ofMinas Gerais' original gold towns, Sao Joao del Rei is a thriving small city with an old central section with several of Brazil's finest churches.

With hotels and sights all within walking range in the old city center, there's little cause to see the more modern part of town; nevertheless, it's evident that the city hasn't been frozen in time, unlike most of the other historic cities of Minas Gerais.

The old section is protected

by Brazil's Landmarks Commission and police guard the churches at night. The city is cut in half by Rio Lenheiro, which is traversed by two 18thcentury stone bridges. In addition to the Aleijadinho-inspired churches, there are several fine colonial mansions — one of which belonged to the late and still popular Tancredo Neves — a good museum, and a surprising variety of other sites and activities.

The city sits between the Serra de Sao Jose and Serra do Lenheiro, near the southern end of the Serra do Espinhaco. It's hilly country near the Rio das Mortes (River of the Dead), where many prospectors were killed during the gold rush days.

The most famous incident took place in 1708, when a band of Emboabas, recent Portuguese immigrants, surrounded about 50 Paulistas or bandeirantes, natives of Sao Paulo of mixed Portuguese and Indian blood.

The Paulistas were massacred after laying down their arms in surrender. This was the bloodiest atrocity in the near civil war that these two groups fought over control of the mines; the place where it happened is called the Capao da Traicao (Copse of Treason).

Churches—Floodlights illuminate the churches at night and give them a fantastic appearance. Be sure to take a walk at night.

Orientation — The city is sandwiched between two hills, both of which provide excellent views, particularly at sunset. The Cristo Redentor monument, overlooking the city, stands on one hill and the Capelinha do Senhor do Bonfim on the other.

Igreja de Sao Francisco de Assis — This exquisite baroque church, full of curves and carvings, looks out on a palm-tree-lined plaza shaped BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

like a lyre. Begun in 1774, the church was Aleijadinho's first complete project, but much of his plri was not realized. Still, the exterior, with an Aleijadinho sculpture of the Immaculate Virgin and several angels, is one of the finest in Minas. There is some uncertainty about what work Aleijadinho did and did not do on the interior. He probably did the main altar, but his work was completely altered. In the second altar Ito the left there is an image of Sao Joao Evangelista which is the work of Aleijadinho, as is the Santo Antonio. Notice the fine woodwork, particularly in the rear of the church.

Tancredo Neves, the man who led Btazil from military rule, is buried in the graveyard out the back.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo — Begun in 1732, this church was designed by Aleijadinho. He also did the frontispiece and sculpture around the door.

In the second sacristy is a famous unfinished Christ.

The church is open from 4 to 7 pm.

Catedral de Nossa Senhora do Pilar — Begun in 1721, this church has exuberant gold altars. There are also fine Portuguese tiles. The mulata Rapadura orchestra and choir accompany the 7 pm mass here on Wednesday. On Thursday and Friday the Coalhada takes their place.

Catedral de Nossa Senhora do Rosario — This simple church was built in 1719 to honor the protector of the slaves.

TIRADENTES They don't make 'em any prettier than Tiradentes.

Ten km down the valley from Sao Joao dl Rei, its gold-era rival, colonial Tiradentes sits on a lill below a mountain.

With few signs of change over the last two centuries, the town has that magic quality of another age — and for some odd reason that's a very good eeling.

Originally called Arraial da Ponta do Mo ro (Hamlet on a Hilltop), Tiradentes was renamed to honor the martyred hero of the Inconfidencia, who was born at a nearby farm. The town's colonial buildings run up a hillside, where they culminate in the beautiful Igreja Matriz de Santo Antonio. If you stand bettween the church's Aleijadinho-carved frontispiece and famous sundial, there is a colorful view of the terra-cotta-tiled colonial houses, the green valley and the towering wall of stone formed by the Serra sao Jose.

Igreja Matriz de Santo Antonio — In 1710 construction began on this church, which is named after the town's patron saint; it is built on the site of a former church. Restored in 1983, this is one of Brazil's most beautiful churches. There are two bell towers and a frontispiece by Aleijadinho, one of the last that he completed. Leandro Got-waives Chaves made the sundial in front of the church in 1785.

The inside is all gold, and rich in symbols from the Old Testament. There is a painting by Joao Batista showing the miracle of Santo Antonio making a donkey kneel before the pope. There is also a polychrome organ built in Portugal and brought to Tiradentes by donkey in 1798. Ask about performances. , Museu do Padre Toledo — This museuni is dedicated to another hero of the Inconfidencia, Padre Toledo, who lived in this 18-room house where the Inconfidentes first met. The museum features regional antiques and documents from the 18th century.

Igreja da Santissima Trindade — After a short walk on Rua da Santissima Trindade, you arrive at this simple pilgrimage church. Dating from 1810, it was built on the site of a small chapel where Tiradentes chose the triangle, symbolizing the holy trinity, as the flag for the new nation.

Solar da Ponte — This colonial mansion, now an expensive hotel, is impeccably restored and decorated and is well worth walking through. It's the first building on the other side of the little stone bridge and it's

marked by a small sign.

Chafariz de Sao Jose — Constructed by the town council in 1749, this beautiful fountain has three sections, one for drinking, one for washing clothes and one for watering horses. The water comes from Mae d'Agua via an old stone pipeline.

Serra de Sao Jose — This area is one of the remaining untouched segments of Atlantic, rainforest in Minas. Mae d'Agua is at the base of these mountains. Lush with moss and plants, the waters are clear and fresh. A 25-minute walk from Tiradentes, Mde d'Agua can also be reached by car. Other walks include: A Calcada, a stretch of the old road that linked Ouro Preto with Rio de Janeiro, Cachoeiras do Mangue, the falls where you can see an old gold mine on the road made by slaves; and Cachoeira do Born Despacho, a waterfall on the TiradentesSanta Cruz road. All of these take about four or five hours. A seven-hour walk will allow you to cross the range. For guides and information about walks into the mountains, ask at the tourist office.

PRADOS PradOs is a small colonial town with virtually no tourism.

The town has good colonial buildings and the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceicao built in 1711. It's a quiet place with a certain charm, but few important sights.

DIAMANTINA Diamantina is a 5-hour drive north from Belo Horizonte. After passing the town of Curvelo (the geographical center of Minas), the stark landscape of northern Minas, with its rocky outcrops and barren highlands, is a sharp contrast to the lush hills in the south of the state.

One of Brazil's prettiest and less touristed colonial gems, the city boomed when diamonds were discovered in the 1720s after the gold finds in Minas.

The diamonds have petered out, but fine colonial mansions and excellent hiking in the surrounding mountains still draw visitors. Diamantina also happens to be the birthplace of Juscelino Kubitschek, former president and founder of Brasilia.

Because of its isolation, Diamantina is a well-preserved colonial city. The center, apart from the relatively new cathedral and a couple of incongru37

ous traffic lights, hasn't changed for hundreds of years.

Most of the churches and historical houses remain closed, but it doesn't matter much because the exteriors are more interesting anyway.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo — Constructed between 1760 and 1765, the tower of this church was built at the rear because Chica da Silva disliked being awakened by bells.

The church is the most opulent in Diamantina, and it's worth having a look inside. It has an organ made in Diamantina and wrought in gold, as well as rich, golden carvings.

Museu do Diamante — The house of Padre Rolim, one of the Inconfidentes, is now a museum, with furniture, coins, instruments of torture and other relics of the diamond days.

Casa da Chica da Silva — This colonial mansion, on Praca Lobo de Mesquita, was the home of diamond contractor Joao Fernandes de Oliveira and his mistress and former slave, Chica da Silva. It's empty at the moment, but from the outside it's possible to get an idea of the lifestyle of the extrava-

gant mulata. The huge colonial door leads to her private chapel.

Mercado Municipal— Built by the army in 1835 the market, in Praca Barao Guaicui, is still a busy one.

Its wooden arches inspired Niemeyer in his design of the presidential palace in Brasilia. It's an interesting place to watch the local mule drivers picking up supplies.

Casa da Gloria — This consists of two houses on separate sides of the street in Rua da Gloria connected by an enclosed, 2nd-story passageway. Originally the residence of the diamond supervisors and the first bishop of Diamantina, today it's the Institute of Geology.

Casa de Juscelino Kubitschek— This small house at Rua sao Francisco 241 reflects the simple upbringing of the former president, whose grandparents were poor Czech immigrants. Kubitschek himself believed that his early life in Diamantina influenced him greatly.

Walks — While you are here, walk a couple of km down the Caminho dos Escravos (built by the slaves) to the Serra daJacuba. Then walk eight km on the road to sao Goncalo to see the furnas (caverns).

SERRO Dominated by the Igreja de Santa Rita, Serro is a -tranquil cidade histOrica, 90 km from Diamantina.

It's a cold, windy place surrounded by granite hills, which in the past provided refuge for runaway slaves.

It's a city rich in folkloric traditions and is the home of the famous queijoserrano—one of Brazil's finest cheeses.

Colonial Buildings —As well as the Igreja Santa Rita, Serro contains other historic churches, like the Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo, dating from 1781, in Praca Joao Pinheiro and the Igreja Senhor Born

Jesus de Matosinhos in Praca Cristiano Otoni.

Other colonial buildings worth a look are the Casa do Barao de Diamantina — now used as the town hall — with 40 rooms which were to have held Dom Pedro II and his entourage during a visit that never happened, and the Chacara do Barao do Serro, across the valley, which has a small museum.

Festival — The Festa do Rosario, which takes place on the first Sunday in July, features folkloric characters catopes, caboclinhos and marujos - who dance and stage mock fights in the streets.

Excerpts from Bra=i1 A Travel Survival Kit 2nd edition,

by Andrew Draffen, Deanna Swaney and Robert Strauss. For more information call Lonely Planet: (800) 2758555. Copyright l992 Lonely Planet Publications.

Used by permission.

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BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

ril 23, 1998 will bring the centennial of Pixinguinha' s irth. On that same date next year, an installation of his statue at the site of the extinct Gouveia Bar (where Pixinguinha and his friends gathered at the end of the day) will launch the centennial celebrations. As grand as celebration plans are, they will not do justice, can never pay proper homage to the importance of this man. A forefather of samba and a musician's musician, he dedicated himself to choro without ever compromising his standards of excellence. Composer, arranger, virtuoso instrumentalist, conductor, band leader, and teacher; Pixinguinha was Brazilian Music On May 13, 1888 — a quarter of a century after slavery had been abolished in the United States — Princess Isabel, in her father's absence, signed the "Golden Law," freeing all slaves in Brazil without compensation to their owners. A black Brazilian born only a decade later, Alfredo da Rocha Vianna, Jr. (Pixinguinha), was destined to experience discrimination in both his professional and private life, a life that was otherwise highlighted by music and affection.

Known primarily as a virtuoso flautist, Pixinguinha actually recorded more on sax than on flute. He opted for the tenor sax, when in the early 1920s he realized that he needed a bigger sound and greater sonority to play the larger halls in Paris, much bigger than the venues the Oito Batutas (Great Eight) were used to playing in Rio. The group had been taken to Europe

by Arnaldo Guinle (whose family was the "big money" in Rio and were also involved in music and show business as well as the owners of a major hotel in Copacabana). It was on this trip that Pixinguinha acquired a silver Selmer tenor sax and began to develop a sound reminiscent of Johnny Griffin's.

Before the "talkies," pianists and sometimes small orchestras were contracted by the movie houses to accompany action on the screen. The Oito Batutas started this way. Pixinguinha on flute, Ernesto dos Santos (Donga) and Raul Palmieri on violelo, Otavio Viana (China) on violeio and voice, Nelson dos Santos Alves on cavaquinho, Luis Pinto da Silva on bandola and reco-reco, Jacob Palmieri on pandeiro and Jose Alves Lima on bandolim and ganza. The Batutas were the first ensemble to employ (in addition to the traditional flute, viola°, and cavaquinho) instruments like the reco-

Ap

100 years of choro When it was announced in the 1920s that a black musician was going to represent Brazil in Europe, Brazilian newspapers ran articles by writers who were outraged by the idea of a "barbarian and primitive music" representing the country. The barbarian was composer and instrumentalist Pixinguinha and his band who were enthusiastically received in Paris. "Un flautiste d'une virtuosite epatante" (A flautist of tremendous virtuosity) wrote a French daily.

From then on nobody would stop his glorious career which would produce more than 600 compositions.

BRUCE GILMAN

BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

39

Rosa You are divine and gracious Majestic statue of love Sculpted by God And molded with passion From the soul of the most beautiful flower With the most engaging aroma That in this life is -preferred by the hummingbird If God should show me clemency, lear in this atmosphere of light Formed on a screen dazzling and beautiful Your heart will be next to mine. pierced Nailed and crucified on the rosy cross Of your heaving breast.

You are the ideal shape Magisterial statue, Oh Perennial Spirit Of my first love, sublime lo % c You are God's sovereign flower You are (iod's creation Who in every heart burns a love A smile, faith, pain In fragrant sandalwood filled with flavor In oiccs as melancholy as a flowering dream You are a milky star You are the mother of the ro) al You are everything there is of beauty In all the splendor of holy nature.

Forgive me, if I dare confess fhat I will always love )ou Oh flower. my heart cannot w ithstand Oh my God. how Sad is The uncertainty of a love {hat keeps me, in penance. waiting lo lead you one day lo the foot of the altar And swear, at the feet of the Omnipotent In painful moving prayers And receive the unction of) our gratitude After redeeming my desires In clouds of kisses I will envelope you till my suffering I las completely expired.

40

reco, the pandeiro, and the ganza. Their repertoire included maxixes, lundus, modinhas, batuques, and cateretes.

The Batutas, however, were not allowed to play on stage.

They played in the foyer of the theater. The stage was only for prestigious white musicians. Their music, nevertheless, spoke to the Brazilian spirit. There were even those who bought tickets just to listen to Pixinguinha and paid no attention to the films shown. One of their biggest fans was the composer Ernesto Nazare, who at that time was the pianist at the Odeon theater.

In time Pixinguinha became a musical ambassador. When the king and queen of Belgium visited Brazil in 1920, the Oito Batutas played for them, and they went on to delight the European aristocracy when in 1922 Arnaldo Guinld arranged the aforementioned European tour for the group. As soon as news of the European tour broke, newspapers in Rio and even in the Northeast of Brazil ran articles by writers who were outraged by the idea of "arrogant and ridiculous blacks" representing Brazil.

Among those who complained were Gilberto Amado, a writer and politician in the Brazilian House of Representatives and Hermes Fontes a man who had been a friend of the group but who joined the opposition and openly displayed a racist position. The articles charged that the music of the Batutas was too primitive, too barbarian, and too negative to represent Brazil.

With the odds against them, the Oito Batutas made the European journey, caught fire with the French, and conquered Paris. Oito Batutas brought to life the best of Brazilian instrumental music. Intellectuals and music connoisseurs frequented their performances and requested them for their gatherings. Oito Batutas received phenomenal reviews and remained on the marquee in Paris so long that they never completed their European itinerary. On their way back to Brazil, however, they did stop in Buenos Aires, where they recorded for RCA Victor of Argentina, and where the newspaper La Raz6n published a poem about Pixinguinha. Here are the first and last stanzas: Negro, tu tienes dos alas y volando por los nidos recogiste los sonidos en caprichosas escalas Vuela... condor tropical a tu bosque, a tus montafias y devoras esas entrafias con tu flauta colosal Black man, you have two wings And flying through the nests You collect the sounds Of capricious scales tropical condor Fly To your grove, your mountains You devour our innards With your colossal flute.

In 1940 the conductor Leopold Stokowski (1882-1977) asked Villa-Lobos to select a few musicians for a series of recordings that would present the best of Brazilian popular music to a PanAmerican congress of folklore. Among musicians that VillaLobos contracted was a man who sparkled with his own frevos, choros, and maracatus â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Pixinguinha. Two albums on Columbia were released some years ago that documented these historic performances.

Presumably because of financial difficulties in the 1940s Pixinguinha was motivated to join Benedito Lacerda's group with the understanding that he would be playing tenor sax.

Lacerda was a warmhearted man who had amiable relationships

Rosa Tu ĂŠs divina e graciosa Esttitua majestosa do arnOr. Por Deus esculturada E formada corn o ardor Da alma da mais linda for De mais ativo olor Que na vida e preferida pelo beija-flor.

Se Deus me fora tan clemente.

Aqui neste ambientc de lu/ Formada numa Ida. deslumbrante c bela 0 ieu coracao. _junto ao meu, lanceado.

Pregado e crucificado sobre a rosea cm/ Do arfante peito tett.

Tu es forma ideal.

Estatua magistral. Oh! alma perenal Do meu primeiro amor. sublime amor Tu es, de Deus a soberana flor Tu es. de Deus a eriacao.

Que em todo o coracao sepultas o amor.

0 riso. a fe e a dor Em sandalos olentes. cheiros de sabor.

Em vozes tao dolentes como um sonho em nor Es. lactea estrela.

Es mac da realeza.

Es tudo enfim que tem de belo Em todo 0 resplendor da santa natureza.

Perd5o. se ouso eonfessar-te.

Eu hei de sempre amarIC

Oh! nor, met' peito nao resiste.

Oh! mcu Deus quanto e triste A incerteza de um amor Que mais me fat penar. em esperar.

Em conduzir-te um dia Ao pe do altar Jurar, aos pes do Onipotente Em preces comoventes de dor.

E receber a unciio de tua gratido Depois. de cemir. meus desejos Em nuvens de beijos Ilei de te envolver ate meu padeeer.

De todo o fenecer.

BRAZZIL -JULY 1996

Carinhoso Meu coracao.

Nao sei porque.

Rate feliz Quando te ye E Os meus olhos Ficam sorrindo E pelas ruas Vao te seguindo Mas mcsmo assim. loges de mim Ah! se tu soubesses Como cu sou tao carinhoso E o muito e muito Que eu te quero E CO() é sincero 0 meu amor Fu sei que nunca Fugirias mais de mim.

Vein, vein. vem, vem.'

Vem sentir o calor Dos labios meus A procura dos teus Vem matar esta paixao Que me devora o coracao E se assim entao Serei feliz. bem feliz

with all the musicians in this band, a band which worked for RCA Victor. Because Pixinguinha was a superb flautist, joining Lacerda's group on sax might have been construed as an imposition. True or not, both sides gained from the resulting music. With Pixinguinha onboard they attained a pinnacle of performance that untiPthattflne had not been reached in Brazilian popular music. Pixinguinha . did more than just assume a role in the group, hemprovised superb counterpoint on tenor underneath Ben dito's solo flute lines and together they composed such i novative works as "Ingenuo," (Naive) "Urn a zero," ( ne to Zero) and "Segura Ele" (Hold Him).

Two factors contribute to the enduring natiure of Pixinguinha's music. First, his music stemmed from Portuguese and African roots: from the lundu, the choro, the samba de roda, and the maxixe. Through these forms Pixinguinha wove improvisation. Second, Pixinguinha had been exposed to and employed European trends in instrumentation and harmony. He introduced this dance hall instrumentation to Brazil at a time when the Modernist movement, which had started in Sao Paulo in 1922 and spread throughout Brazil, created a commotion in the arts that intellectually assaulted the old patterns in theater, literature, poetry, and especially in music which no onger had to be based on the continental Portuguese model.

The earliest recordings of Pixinguinha's music, "Sofres Porque Queres" (You Suffer Because You Want To) and "Rosa," (Rosa) both from 1917, demonstrate the advanced nature of his arranging and compositional style. i Renowned composer Radames Gnattali called hi a genius. Villa-Lobos referred to him as musician w thout qualification. And more recently, Mauro Senise said that Pixinguinha was a genius in harmony whose works lose nothing as time goes by. Musicologists today see Pixinguinha as the starting point for Brazilian orchestral arrangers. His works provide the student a transparent analysis of the principles. of.Brazilian harmony, counter-

Naquele Tempo: .

Duets with Pixinguinha and Berled•to I acerda recorded between 1946 -1951 ,. (Reviven(:lo) Otto Batutas: The only recording of the group from their tour in Buenos Aires in 1923. (Revivendo Carnavai, Sun Historia Sua Gloria: A 15 CD collection bringing togethe several of Pixinguinha's greatest, -'o;chestr tions of Carnaval music. (Revivend o 0 Cantor das Mult d do SilvaA 3 CD boxs i 6eest* ineludin'g:severa.1 or chestration and t he c ompositions: "Rosa "Carinhoso," and "ginas de:X!or." (Odeon Som Pixinguinha/Gente da Antiga: Two LPs recorded by Pixinguinha in e 1970s. (BMG-Ariola-Two in One series hinguinht;r de Novo.

Carlos PoYares and Aitanion Carrilhn interpret flute music of Pixinguinha. arenS,

Affectionate My heart '1 don't

know why Beats happily When it sees you And my eyes Start to smile And through the streets.

They follow you Even though, You flee from me.

Ah! if you knew How much I care And how much 1 love you And how sincere My love is 1 know that you would never Elude me Come, come, come, conic.

Come and feel the heat Of my lips That look for yours Come and kill this passion That devours my heart And then 1 will be happy, very happy My heart, my heart.

Tquestra Brasilia: ' Arrangements from. 1948 which were covered in: the National Library. Performed the grou— p formed by Henrique Cazes. arup) vendo: Paulot ura o and Clara Svernerinter" Pixinguinha 's greatest hits in arrangements or piano and clarinet. (Sony) ogueira, Andrea Ernest Dias, Larçal, Luciana ltabello, and others preserve

e tradition.(Warner) have found only one reliable source for these ecordings: Brazil CDs —(617) 666 -3747 spei in n hard to find imports. and duet guitar sheet music for better known compositions ("Urn a * SL, ' ani entoS," ,"Rosa," "Carinhoso") is Vailakle frorniGSP (415) 896 -1122. +.4 a im e r era

BRAZZIL -JULY 198

41

point, rhythm, and regional nuances.

When "Carinhoso" (Affectionate) was recorded in 1928, it created some puzzling reactions. The choro appropriately titled had a seductive melodic line but some very unusual harmony for the time.

Some critics classified it "Americanized" because they believed that it had something to do with American jazz.

"Carinhoso" wasn't as Americanized as people thought, although it did represent a change in the structure of the choro. With "Carinhoso," Pixinguinha abandoned the traditional three part form of choro that he had adopted in his first masterworks "Urn a Zero," "Lamentos," and above all, "Ingenuo" and gave it a seemingly simpler structure â&#x20AC;&#x201D; an introduction and two parts. Notwithstanding its simple structure, it was harmonically sophisticated. Almost ten years later when the choro was recorded again

by Orlando Silva with lyrics by Joao de Barro but with the same harmonic structure preserved, the world was ready; no ears found it strange. The orchestrations of Pixinguinha were the vital element for the RCA Victor recordings by Francisco Alves, Mario Reis, Silvio Caldas, Orlando Silva, and Carmen Miranda during the 1930s. He was one of two giants during the Golden Era of Brazilian music (the other being Radames Gnattali).

Many facts have surfaced acknowledging that Pixinguinha was ahead of his time. Interestingly in 1974, at the peek of Scott Joplin's rediscovery, Gunther Schuller transcribed the piano rags of Joplin for small band (trombone, trumpet, clarinet, tuba). Schuller utilized the traditional instruments ofthe small groups in New Orleans and adhered to the syncopated rhythms stylistic of ragtime. But his arrangements had a chamber music quality. In as much as Schuller had never heard Pixinguinha's recordings, and the even greater probability that Pixinguinha would have known nothing about Joplin (dead, buried, and forgotten since 1914), Schuller's results were startling. The orchestral timbre and voicing were identical to those of Pixinguinha's from 20 years earlier.

Pixinguinha's lyrics still deserve a more extensive study. "Carinhoso," "Lamento" (in the singular), as well as "Rosa" evolved and were surprisingly enhanced with the addition of intricate poetry. The prominent "Pagina de Dor" (Page of Pain) by Pixinguinha and Candid° das Neves, which was written on a napkin on the table of a cheap bar, is a 42

prominent example.

A well-known photo showing Pixinguinha at home in his rocking chair wearing pajamas conveys a rather down-home image o the man. Referring to the picture and the image it portrays, Henrique Cazes (an extraordinary cavaquinho player and the person principally responsible for the rediscovery of many of Pixinguinha's orchestral compositions) said that it is time to take the pajamas off Pixinguinha and dress him in conductor's tails. Posterity has not been completely fair to the great maestro.

The photo brings to mind the great American jazz musician, Louis Armstrong (Satchmo). Both of these men had unassuming images that constantly placed their compositions and exceptional playing in the back seat. Satchmo's biographers have tried for years to undue the image of him as simply a folksy clown. Armstrong and Pixinguinha both revealed an early talent on wind instruments, innovated the music of their time, fronted small cutting-edge ensembles, and had nicknames.

The unassuming side of Alfredo da Rocha V ianna, Jr. starts with a nickname that some people unduly attribute to the word "pizindim" which would translate to "good boy" in one African dialect.

Others subscribe to the theory that his nickname stems from "bexiga." Pixinguinha's bout with smallpox as a child left little bladder-like sacks (colloquially called bexigas) on his face and body resulting in the nickname "bexiguinha."

The image also stems from the close bonds he inspired from his family and friends. In 1972 his wife, Beti, entered the hospital suffering from a digestive disorder. Pixinguinha, at the same time, suffered his fourth heart attack and was also hospitalized. But everyday Pixinguinha asked his son to bring roses to him.

Pixinguinha would dress up, and take the roses to Beti, and pretend that he was there visiting her. She never knew that he had had his fourth heart attack. Beti was operated on but never left the hospital.

With her death, Pixinguinha collapsed emotionally and lost all interest in life.

On a hot afternoon in February 1973, Pixinguinha was at Igreja Nossa Senhora da Paz, in Ipanema, waiting for the arrival of his godchild's father so that the child's baptism could begin. Pixinguinha started o feel ill and loosened his belt hoping to relieve his discomfort. Becoming distressed with the delay and hammered by the heat, he was taken to a cooler area in the rear of the church The maestro died inside that church. When he closed his eyes for the last time, heaven wept.

Brice Gilman plays cuica for Mocidade Independente Los Angeles, received his MA from California Enstitute of the Arts, and teaches English and ESL in Long Beach, California.

You can reach him through his E-mail: cuica@interworld.net BRA7_ZIL -JULY 1996

The heartbeat of Bahia Their name is an abbreviation of Olodumare, Yoruba's god of gods. In sixteen years of activities in Bahia, Olodum has become an internationally known musical and cultural phenomenon as well as a drumbeater for Black rights in Brazil.

PRAVINA SHUKLA Picture yourself in Pelourinho, the historic

center of Salvador, the capital of Bahia. The cobblestone streets are lined with multicolored three-story buildings tightly wedged between the hundreds of churches the city boasts of having. It is a Tuesday night, Pelourinho's famous "Terca da Benca" (Tuesday of Blessing), originally designating the day Saint Francis of Assisi would distribute food to the needy. Since the 1970s, the Black community in Salvador chooses to commemorate this day with political, social, cultural and musical events.

On Tuesdays, the historic center is jampacked with people eating, drinking and dancing. In this chaos of bodies one sound is heard: the unmistakable drumming of Olodum. Hundreds stand outside the door of the open courtyard, Praca Tereza Batista, where Olodum holds its yearly Tuesday night rehearsals. Olodum's second weekly rehearsal, this one free of charge, is held every Sunday night atop the slopping hill in front of the church Nossa Senhora do Rosario dos Pretos, built by and for the slaves.

Both rehearsals attract hundreds, even thousands of people, native Salvadorians, Brazilian and international tourists alike to see and hear the most famous Afro band of Bahia. Most people acquainted with Brazilian music will recognize the high-energy drumming ofOlodum, characterized by their vibrant drums, handpainted in the colors of Africa: red, gold, green and black.

The Grupo Cultural Olodum was founded in

BRAZZIL - JULY 1996 43

1996 Olodum Carnaval Songs: Bala A vida é doce como algodao doce desperte pra vida pro mundo adocar (bis) sou o seu nego born o batom da sua boca sou a bala de baleiro pode detonar Olodum é bala bala de baleiro pode detonar Mel, bombom, maink na tua boca (bis) mel bombom vem ca coisinha louca pode vir uma garoa se molhar é coisa boa depois Cu te enxugo toda Vera° Olodum

Candy Life is sweet like cotton candy awaken to life to sweeten the world I am your goOd Black man the lipstick of your mouth I am the candy of candy sellers you can set it off Olodum is candy candy of candy sellers you can set it off Bombom of honey, mother in your mouth bombom of honey come here crazy little thing it can start drizzling if you get wet, that's good later I will wipe you dry

Summer Olodum

F. bonito, é demais o Olodum da Bahia é bonito, é gostoso o seu jeito charmoso (bis)

It's beautiful, it's too much Bahia's Olodum it's beautiful, it's delicious your charming ways

Urn weekend odara corn voce oba, oba um weekend odara coin voce

A delicious weekend with you all right, all right a delicious weekend with you

Por voce, amor, que lindo eu you ao infinito eu quero ë mais estar sempre ao seu lado porque simplesmente voce me satisfaz

For you love so beautiful I'll go until the end what I want most is to always be at your side because quite simply you satisfy me

Aue, auë, aue, aue, aue aue. aue, aue, aue, aue

Aue, aue, au'e, aue, aue, aue, aue, aue, aue, aue,

Nos meus sonhos voce vem surgindo querendo o paraiso Cu dou coin um mar de risos you buscando seu amor

In my dreams you emerge wanting paradise I give it to you with an a ocean of smiles go in search of your love

44

1979 by the dwellers of the Maciel-Pelourinho district of Salvador, for the purpose of providing these citizens with the right and opportunity to participate in Carnaval as an organized group or "bloco" (percussion group). Prior to this, so called "marginals": prostitutes, thieves, and Blacks were not allowed an opportunity to partake in the preLenten festivities. Olodum, in its sixteenth year, has since grown from 800 to over 3,000 participants parading during Carnaval.

The group, from its inception, has served as a backbone for the Black community of Salvador. Its involvement in the "Movimento Negro" (Black Movement) is significant, as they themselves state: "Olodum is an entity that seeks the recovery, value and preservation of the Black culture, having anti-racist struggle as one of its principal goals." The sentiment of this statement is often seen in the lyrics of most of their songs. Its name, "Olodum" is an abbreviation of "Olodumare" the God of all gods in the Nigerian Yoruba religion of Candomble, much alive in the African Diaspora of Bahia.

In order to be able to handle the huge amount of activities, concerts, rehearsals, musicians, Olodum has twenty-six directors, each in charge of one specific area.

Of these, the two-time president Jodo Jorge Santos Rodrigues, spearheads the organization as an incredibly articulate, charismatic, and intelligent man, whose words appear in some of the sleeve jackets of the Olodum compact discs.

Pelourinho district has a few Olodum headquarters, so to speak. The first one, the pink "Casa do Olodum" houses administrative offices, the weekly rehearsal of the "banda show" Olodum, the one that records the albums and tours the world. Downstairs, the Olodum 'house' hosts a bar, complete with music, stacks of the multicolored drums, posters of Malcolm X and adoring fans hovering around.

In fact, on any given day, a passerby is sure to find at least one member of Olodum sitting outside on the steps holding drumsticks, basking in the sunlight. This "Casa do Olodum" can in fact be nicknamed the `Olodum Clubhouse,' since it is here where the members meet to chat, rehearse, play music.

The second most important Olodum headquarters is the "Escola Criativa Olodum," run by the Director of Health Tita Lopes and Director of Education Peter Ledo.

Here the street kids are educated in art, music, language, dance, history. Here also the projects and campaigns against AIDS and cholera are launched, including the campaign for condom distribution by Olodum during Carnaval.

The "Fabrica Olodum," only a few feet away from the School, is where the Carnaval costumes, created by Artistic Director Alberto Pita, are cut and sewn, and where the T-shirts are produced. T-shirts, along with ashtrays, backpacks, vests, even Olodum lipstick are all sold at the "Boutique Olodum," where you are surely to walk away from possessing some object with the insignia of your favorite band from Bahia.

The West's acquaintance with Olodum came with Paul Simon's "The Rhythm of the Saints" CD. and tour, which featured Olodum's drumming. In fact, this past February, Michael Jackson followed heed and recorded the song and part of the video for his "They Don't Really Care About Us" with Olodum in Pelourinho before heading for Rio de Janeiro's shantytowns. Olodum has made several appearances in the US, most notably during the 1994 World Cup soccer final games, in which Brazil was, for the fourth time, victorious.

BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

Olodum has given concerts in eighteen countries of the world, including Cuba, Senegal and Angola. Their most famous song to date is "Requebra," of three Carnavals past, the performance of which still drives the crowds wild. The lyrics of most Olodum songs are inspired by African mythology, the "orixas" (Yoruban gods and goddesses), the history of slavery, the struggle for Black power, Brazilian cultural heroes such as Lampiao and Zumbi.

The lyrics from "Atlantida" epitomize in a nutshell Olodum's uncanny blend of poetry, religion and history: "Da Africa, orixas e inquices aportam no cais de Salvador" (From Africa, "orixas" (Yoruba gods from Nigeria) and "inquices" (power figures from the Kingdom of Kongo, present-day Zaire) came and fell on the shores of Salvador. This line credits Bahian culture back to Africa, names the two predominant African cultural and geographical affiliations of the slaves, and makes explicit the importance of the ocean as the link between Africa and its people in the Diaspora.

On February 10th, 1996, Saturday, I had the good fortune to witness the filming of the Michael Jackson music video which featured Olodum. For about a week before the date Jackson was due to arrive, about two hundred men and women of Olodum would meet nightly to rehearse their drum participation in the song "They Don't Really Care About Us." These rehearsals consisted of band members with drums, tourists and the curious all tightly packed in a narrow dead-end street, facing Neguinho do Samba, Olodum's brilliant "Mestre" (drum master) and creator of what is known as Bahia's "Samba-Reggae."

The day before Jackson's appearance, there was a press conference held in the "Casa do Olodum" with Spike Lee, the director of Jackson's music video. As the last questions were answered by Lee, clad in the Brazilian national soccer team's shirt and Olodum baseball cap, there was a large, Earth-rattling sound hear(' by all: thunderous bellows of about two hundred drums struck outside. Everyone, including Lee, ran to see the spectacle. Two hundred men and women beat their red, gold, green and black drums in the blinding sunlight to welcome Spike Lee to Salvador.

The following day! awoke to the same sound; the drum-beating started at 7:00 am and would go until 11:00 pm. The tireless youths of Salvador which comprise Olodum seemed to have an BFtAZZIL - JULY 1996

infinite amount of energy, ready to share with the most famous person to ever take otice of them, Michael Jackson. He arrived at noon, accompani d by two children, in a car which heralded his coming with a s rinking siren. After two sequences of him dancing 419. R g adoring fans who screamed and fainted, he filmed the last s quence of the day, in which he danced in front as Olodum sto ad behind him, beating their ever so beautiful drums.

Jackson's great dancing, his readily apparent friendliness made all the people 'n Pelourinho smile with pride. Especially proud were the you s of Olodum, to have had the opportunity to showcase their ta ent to the world through Jackson's video.

The video was in f t filmed in the "Largo do Pelourinho," the exact spot where hun reds of years ago slaves were whipped and tortured by their m sters, hence the name "Pelourinho" (the illory). Olodum purposefully heaclquarers in Pelourinho to tap into the negative riergy caused by the shedding of slave load precisely to gain strength for their ight for Black equality and power.

No description of Olodum would be Complete without describing the incredible experience of participating in the bloco's Carnaval parades. This year's theme was 'Os Filhos do Mar" (Sons of the Ocean), d the mission was to recount the tales of e fishermen, divulge the secrets of the yen seas, and express the sentiment of the s ave trade. The costumes were predominately red, symbolizi g the Red Sea. The women wore mock sailor shirts with sho sarong skirts while the men wore similar shirts with Bermuda horts. The band members wore the same clothes, but in yello while the directors' costumes were in The bloco traditionally participates in three of the six nights of Carnaval: Friday, Sunday and Tuesday. Each time Olodum started parading around 11:00 pm only to finish at 6:30 am At the head of the procession was the huge boat-float with seven princesses/mermaids dressed in white with sparkling silver eye shadow. This was followed by hundreds of red-clad participants dancing and singing. Next was the trio eletrico, a converted truck with massive speakers which holds the singers and creates a huge ear-popping sound.

On top of the trio eletrico the Olodum singers looked very dignified wearing all white sailor outfits, including navy caps. Directly behind the trio eletrico were the drummers, sectioned off by heavy cords, a mass of yellow and drums. Behind the drummers was where most of the people pa ding with Olodum were dancing and drinking beer. This ye there were over 3,000 people, happy to have the opportunity to parade with their favorite band.

No visitor to Salva or can miss Olodum. The T-shirts are sold in every street co er, the music is heard in taxi cabs, in record shops, in bars, n festivals and Carnaval. I guess last year's song "Furacao" ( urricane) was right when it stated: "Se tern Olodum, tern festa a Bahia" (if Olodum is present, there is [definitely] a party in B ia)!

Pravina Sh kla is a Ph.D. candidate in Folklore and Mythology at UCLA (University of California, Los Angeles).

Books

Plays Alo? Madame!... -- It all starts when two friends get a phone number that belonged to a palm reader and decide to take the clients for themselves. By Marcelo Saback and Vinicius Marques. In Rio. A Comedia — Complicated and funny love-triangle. Mauricio Lencasttre wrote and directs Viviane Dias, Ludh Raposo and Gabriela Neri star. In Sao Paulo.

Como Encher urn Biquini Selvagem — Written and directed by multitalented Miguel Falabella with Claudia Jimenez.

A story of loneliness in the big city. In Rio. Eu Sei que Vou Te Amar — Only after their separation couple finds out how much they loved each other. Written by Arnaldo Jabor, directed by William Pereira. With Julia Lemertz and Alexandre Borges.

In Rio. Fim de Jogo — Samuel Becket's story about an old blind man, his parents and a servant who wait for death in a little cubicle. Translated by Luis Roberto Benati and directed by Rubens Rusche. In Sao Paulo.

0 Livro de J6 — Inspired by Job's biblical ordeal, the play discusses the divine power.

Adapted by Luis Alberto de Abreu. Directed by Antonio Araftjo. With Maria Lima and Matheus Nachtgaele. In Sao Paulo.

Mary Stuart — By Shiller, directed by Gabriel Villela, with Renata Sorah and Xuxa Lopes.

The dispute between queens Mary Stuart of Scotland and Elizabeth I of England. In Rio. Rasto Atrtis — A family drama during 40 grueling years. By Jorge Andrade. Eduardo Tolentino de Aratijo directs. Interpreted by Grupo Tapas. In sao Paulo.

Todo Mundo Sabe que Todo Mundo Sabe — Another play from prolific and multitalented Miguel Falabella who also directs it. A socialite struggles to avoid economic disaster. In Rio. 46

best-sellers American films just released: Mulholland Falls (0 Preco da Traiccio), How to Make and American Quilt (Colcha de Retalhos), The Juror (A Jurada), Spy Hard (Duro de Espiar), The Nutty Nut (Nut —Nasceu Burro, Não Aprendeu Nada, Esqueceu a Metade), Stolen Hearts (Coraccies Roubados), Rumble in the Bronx (A rrebentando em Nova Iorque), Denise Calls Up (Denise Esta Chamando), Diabolique (Diabolique), Two Much (Quero Dizer que Te Amo), Operation Dumbo Drop (Operaccio Dumb o), Mighty Aphrodite (Poderosa Afrodite), The Truth About Cats and Dogs (Feito Ccies e Gatos) The Horseman on the Roof (0 Cavaleiro do Telhado e a Dama das Sombras) — France — 1995 — An independent French young lady and an adventurous Italian horseman get romantically involved in a repressed and plague-infested 19th century Europe. With Gerard Depardieu and Juliette Binoche. Directed by Jean-Paul Rappeneau.

La Ceremonie (Mulheres Diabolicas) — Claude ChaFrance/Germany — 1995 brol's thriller. The strange relationship between a maid and the woman she works for.

Isabelle Huppert stars with Jacqueline Bisset and Sandrine Bonnaire.

Chongking Senlin (A mores Expressos) Two policeman involved China — 1994 in love-affair complications. Wong Kar-Wai directed.

A Felicidade E... (Happiness Is...) — Brazil (1995) — Divided in four stories: "Sonho", "Bob", "Estrada", "Cruz", directed by A. S. Cecilio Neto, Jorge Furtado, Jos.e Pedro Goulart, and Jose Roberto Torero.

Lamer/ca (America, o Sonho de Chegar) From Gianni Amelia the Italy — 1994 story of two friends looking for their dreamland and a better life.

Post/no (0 Carteiro e o Poeta) — Italy — Poet Pablo Neruda's friendship with 1995 the mailman during the writer's exile in an Italian island. Directed by Michael Radford.

As Meninas (The Girls) — Brazil — 1995 — The story of three inseparable friends living in a for-girls-only boarding house. Based on Lygia Fagundes Telles' s novel. Directed by Emiliano Ribeiro. With Adriana Esteves, Drica Moraes and Claudia Liz. Once Were Warriors (0 Amor e a Ftiria) — New Zealand — 1994 — A group of natives from New Zealand's tribes end up destroying their own cultural past. Directed by Lee Tamahori. With Rena Owen, Temuera Morrinson and Mamaengaroa Kerr-Bell.

The White Baloon (0 Balao Branco) — Iran — 1995 — The dreams of a little girl whose only ambition is to get a red fish as gift. Jafar Pahani is the director.

Fiction 1. A Profecia Celestina James Redfield 2. 0 Mundo de Sofia Jostein Gaarder 3. 0 Xango de Baker Street J6 Soares 4. Comedia da Vida Privada Luis F. Verissimo 5. 0 Carteiro e o Poeta Antonio Skarmeta 6. 0 Dia do Curinga Jostein Gaarder 7. Manhd, Tarde e Noite Sidney Sheldon 8. Um Lugar Chamado Liberdade Ken Follett 9. Rapina Ivan Sant'Anna 10. Desencontros Danielle Steel

Nonfiction 1. Almas Gemeas Monica Buonfiglio 2. A Assustadora Historia da Medicina Richard Gordon 3. Inteligencia Etnocion al Daniel Goleman 4. Anjos Cabalisticos Monica Buonfiglio 5. Frases Paulo Coelho 6. Encontros, Desencontros e Reencontros Maria Helena Matarazzo 7. Minutos da Sabedoria Torres Pastorino 8. Guia New York —Compras , Katia Zero 9. S6 o Amor E Real Brian L. Weiss 10. Para Entender a Arte Robert Cumming According to weekly newsmagazine Veja BRAZZIL -JULY 1996

BRAZILIAN HEARTBREAKER MUSICAL SUMMER A musical tribute to Brazilian composer Moacir Santos will be the headline of the Brazilian Summer Festival '96 to be held in Los Angeles on July 6 and 7. In its third incarnation the annual show has been transformed from a one-day spectacle into a two-day musical affair. On Saturday, "A Day in Rio de Janeiro" there will be presentations by Rique Pantoja and his quintet, singer Claudia Villela, and Josias & Sambrasil. On Sunday, Pantoja will be back and will share the stage with Meia Noite & the Midnight Drums and Lula & Afro-Brazil. The Brazilian Nites Production party to be held at the John Anson Ford Amphitheater will run from 5 PM to 10 PM on both days. For tickets call (213) 466-1767.

NATIVE SOUNDS Mixing Brazilian rhythms with jazz, New-York-based saxophone trailblazer Ivo Perelman is releasing Tapeba Songs, the third album in his trilogy of Brazilian-inspired melodies. The No Problem Productions's CD is a journey to little-known sacred songs of the Tapeba people from northeastern Brazil. Jose Eduardo Nazario (percussion), Lelo Nazario (keyboards) and Paulo Bellinati (guitar) are the Brazilian musicians who play with Perelman.

Among the tracks: "Biju" (a bailio-like song), "Sara Mussara" (a chant for ants), "Napurana" (name of a vulturelike bird) and "13randlin" (a samba).

The music of the Tapebas is used as a springing board for Perelman to present his vision of the sounds of Brazil. In the first album of the trilogy, /vo, the inspiration was the melodies of the Portuguese colonizers. Children oflbeji explored the African influence on Brazilian music. To get the CD call (201) 433-3907 or send E-mail to: noprob@delphi.com BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

First this 27-year-old beauty was chosen to host the TV show "Billboard Music World 95," then she had a chance to do a special called a "Day in Hollywood." Now Patricia Mario from Fox network is getting her own weekly program with interviews and music clips that will be called "Oye." What even her fans don't know is that Patricia is a P aid istana, that is, she was born in Sao Paulo, Brazil.

Her Latin pretty face and body have been gracing Miami's magazine pages, billboards and TV sets, as a model advertising products, since she was IS. For some time she also presented a program on the Spanishspeaking Telemundo channel.

Patricia has a dream: to go work in Brazil in a novela (soap opera). "If Globo network invited me 1 would go like that," she says, concluding with a lament: "Nobody has called me though."

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BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

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Attractive, sophisticated economically independent Brazilian lady seeks nice Americano 4560 for serious commitment. Write to Claudice, SQN-308 Bloco -H" Apt. 605 - Brasilia DF 70000 Brazil [124] Sophisticated, attractive lady with Scandinavian art degree seeks professional, attractive 4758 man — non-American, non smoker—for love eventual marriage. (213) 851-2767 [125] Sou Ellen, americana corn coracAo brasileiro, bem educada, que adora a musica, a cultura, a lingua e o povo brasileiros.

Queria conhecer um brasileiro solteiro de 40 anos ou mais, em boa forma, morando em New York City ou pertinho. E-mail: 73160.3237@compuserve.com [130] PERSONAL MAN SEEKS WOMAN

American, male, 44 years old, would like to meet a Brazilian lady. I speak English only. Call (415) 994-8470 (San Francisco) [124] American Plastic Surgeon. Internationally recognized. Attractive. Athletic. Has toured Brazil.

Seeks intelligent, athletic, attractive, non smoking Brasileira who likes skin diving, aerobics, surfing, outdoor photography & cooking. Ages 22-30. Send photos and C.V. to G.M. - 2318 Washington - Great Bend, Kansas, 67530 - U.S.A. Americano, 38 anos, alto, delgado, branco, olhos azuis, professor de Ingles, procura brasileira 18-30 anos. (310) 2895719 William - Ou: 1223 Broadway #143, Santa Monica, CA 90404 [124] Americano, young 44, honest, romantic, seeks brasileira 27-39.

Has toured Brasil. Likes your people, music, soccer. Falo Portugues. Letter/photo to Douglas, 18 Grand Rio Cir., Sacramento, CA 95826 [125] Blue eyes, 6' tall college grad, business owner, traveler near Marina Del Rey, California, seeks a sharing, caring, sensual relationship with a petite, ethnic, Brasileira— Barrett (310) 3902586 [124] Brazilian Gaucho, 32, 5'4" tall, 118, protestant, educated, roman-

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TV & RADIO COAST TO COAST SHORT WAVE RADIO Radio Nacional da Amazonia - Daily, especially on evenings and early morning - 6,180 & 11,780 Khz Radiobras - All universal time - From 12 noon to 1:20 PM, in English and from 1:30 PM to 2:50 PM, in Spanish 15,445 Khz BOSTON Coragao Brasileiro - Every Sunday, 12.00 noon with Dennis Miller - 88.1 FM WMBR CHICAGO The Sounds of Brazil - Every Saturday, 10.00 pm Midnight, 95.5 FM, WNUA with Scott Adams Show Brazil - Every Friday, 8:00 am - 11.00 am, 91.5 FM, WMFO with Edna Moreno Brazilian Style of Music Every Friday, 11:00 am 2:00 pm, 91.5 FM, V\IMFO with Marlon Cate() LOS ANGELES

MONDAY 1 NEWYORK 9:00 PM - Brazil Night with Vanessa Falabella at The Wha? - 115 McDougal St i212) 254-3706

SAN FRANCISCO 8:00 PM - Mishla plays Brazilian Jazz at Expresso - 342 Mason St

TUESDAY 2 SAN FRANCISCO 9:00 PM - Brazilian Rainbow Party at Bahia Cabana

WEDNESDAY 3 LARKSPUR, CAL. 7:00 PM - Liza Silva & Voz do Brasil at Bolero (415) 925-1804

THURSDAY 4 NEW YORK 9:00 PM - Grupo Saveiro at Scala Brazil

BERKELEY; CAL'.

8.30 PM - Adriana & Carlos Oliveira at Nino's

LOS ANGELES 9:30 PM - Constellation Band at Zabumba 10:30 PM - Brazil Gala Club Premiere with Manza Alyno, Constellation Band and MILA at Club Yes — 11620 Wilshire Blvd - (310) 917-1921

FRIDAY 5 FLORIDA POMPAN 8:00 PM - Clauduarte at Rebecca's (954) 785-7766

LOS ANGELES 9:30 PM - MILA Samba School at Café Danssa

ANAHEIM, .CAL. 7:00 PM - Lois & Zelao at Ginga Brazil

SATURDAY 6 NEW YORK 9:00 PM - Julianna Aquino followed by Manhattan Samba Group at SOB

Canal Brasil - Every Sunday, 9:00 pm, Continental Cable, Channel 28 RADIO Sounds of Brazil - Every Thursday, Noon - 2:00 pm, KPFK, 90.7 FM with Sergio Mielniczenko Brazilian Hour - Every Saturday and Sunday, 9:00 am - 10:00 am, KXLU, 88.9 FM with Sergio Mielniczenko MIAMI RADIO Brazilians Love Jazz - Every Sunday, 5.00 pm - 6:00 pm with Gina Martelli -93.9 - Love 94

LOS, ANGELES 5:00 PM to 10:00 PM - Rique Pantoja, Claudia Villela & others in Brazilian Summer Festival '96 at the John Anson Ford Amphiteatre (213) 466-1767 9:30 PM -ULA Samba Band atZabumba

SAN FRANCISCO 10:00 PM - Entre N6s at Bahia Cabana

ANAHEIM; CAL. 7:00 PM - Marcos Santos & Santana at Ginga Brazil

LOS ANGELES 9:30 PM - Constellation Band at Café Danssa

SUNDAY 7 NEW YORK 9:00 PM -Abada Capoeira Fundraising Party with Motivo para Beber, Joanna Nova York, Samba Novo and others at SOB

LOS ANGELES 5:00 PM to 10:00 PM - Rique Pantoja, Meia Noite & The Midnight Drums &

50

others in Brazilian Summer Festival '96 at the John Anson Ford Amphiteatre (213) 466-1767 6:00 PM to 9:00 PM - Axe, the Brazilian Jazz Ensemble at Fine Arts by Nun (213) 936-9144

LONG BEACH, CAL; 7:00 PM - SambaLa Samba School at the Foothill

MONDAY 8 SAN FRANCISCO 8:00 PM - Mishla plays Brazilian Jazz at Expresso - 342 Mason St

TUESDAY 9 SAN FRANCISCO 9:00 PM - Brazilian Rainbow Party at Bahia Cabana

WEDNESDAY 10 LARKSPUR, CAL. 7:00 PM - Liza Silva & Voz do Brasil at Bolero (415) 925-1804

LOS ANGELES 8:30 PM - Axe, the Brazilian Jazz Ensemble at Zabumba

THURSDAY 11 NEW YORK 9:00 PM - Grupo Saveiro at Scala Brazil

BERKELEY, CAL. 8:30 PM - Adriana & Carlos Oliveira at Nino's

LOS ANGELES 9:30 PM - Constellation Band at Zabumba

FRIDAY 12 BERKELEY, CAL. 9:30 PM - Festa Junina with Aquarela & Entre Nos at Ashkenaz

LOS ANGELES 9:30 PM - MILA Samba School at Café Danssa

ANAHEIM, CAL. 7:00 PM - Sergio 2000 at Ginga Brazil

SATURDAY 13 NEW YORK 9:00 PM - Don Juarez & samba group followed

by Manhattan Samba Group at SOB

SACRAMENTO 9:30 PM - Lisa Silva & Voz do Brasil at Red Lion Inn

SAN FRANCISCO 10:00 PM - Entre NOs at Bahia Cabana

ANAHEIM, CAL. 7:00 PM - Lois & Zelao at Ginga Brazil

LOS ANGELES 9:30 PM - ULA Samba Band at Zabumba 9:30 PM - Constellation Band at Cafe Danssa

SUNDAY 14 BERKELEY, CAL. 4:00 PM - Ricardo Peixoto Brazilian Jazz Quartet at Maybeck Recital Hall - 1537 Euclid Ave (510) 848-3228

LOS ANGELES 6:00 PM to 9:00 PM - Axe, the Brazilian Jazz Ensemble at Fine Arts by Nun (213) 936-9144

LONG BEACH, CAL. 7:00 PM - SambaLa s Festa Junina at the Foothill

TUESDAY 16 BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

calendar - july 96 - u.s.a.

SAN FRANCISCO 9:00 PM - Brazilian Rainbow Party at Bahia Cabana

7:00 PM - Liza Silva & Voz do Brasil at Bolero (415) 925-1804

THURSDAY 25 NEW YORK

7:00 PM - Liza Silva & Voz do Brasil at Bolero (415) 925-1804

9:00 PM - Djavan at Blue Note 9:00 PM - Grupo Saveiro at Scala Brazil

TV & RADIO

THURSDAY 18 NEW YORK

BERKELEY, CAL.

TV

9:00 PM - Adriana & Carlos Oliveira at Nino's

WEDNESDAY 17 LARKSPUR, CAL.

9:00 PM - Grupo Saveiro at Scala Brazil

BERKELEY, CAL. 8:30 PM - Adriana & Carlos Oliveira at Nino's

LOS ANGELES

LOS ANGELES 9:00 PM - Lula & Afro Brazil at Zabumba

FRIDAY 26 NEW YORK

9:30 PM - Constellation Band at Zabumba

FRIDAY 19 LOS ANGELES

9:00 PM - Djavan at Blue Note

9:30 PM - MILA Samba School at Café Danssa

ANAHEIM, CAL

LOS ANGELES 9:30 PM - MILA Escola de Samba at Cafe Danssa

ANAHEIM, CAL.

7:00 PM - Sergio 2000 at Ginga Brazil

SATURDAY 20 NEW YORK

7:00 PM - Marcos Santos & Santana at Ginga Brasil

SATURDAY 27 NEW YORK

9:00 PM - Katende & the Viva Brazil Dancers followed by Manhattan Samba Group at SOB

SAN FRANCISCO 10:00 PM - Entre N6s at Bahia Cabana

ANAHEIM, CAL. 7:00 PM - Sergio 2000 at Ginga Brazil

LOS ANGELES 9:30 PM - ULA Samba Band at Zabumba 9:30 PM - Constellation Band at Cafe Danssa 10:00 PM - Meia Noite & The Midnight Drums Band at Luna Park (310) 726-6968

SUNDAY 21 LOS ANGELES 6:00 PM to 9:00 PM - Axe, the Brazilian Jazz Ensemble at Fine Arts by Nun - 7250 Melrose Ave (213) 936-9144

LONG BEACH, CAL. 7:00 PM - SambaLa Samba School at the Foothill

TUESDAY 23 NEW YORK

9:00 PM - Djavan at Blue Note 9:00 PM - Samba Novo followed by Manhattan Samba Group at SOB

SAN FRANCISCO 10:00 PM - Entre N6s at Bahia Cabana

ANAHEIM, CAL

ANAHEIM, CAL. Ginga Brazil - 821 N. Euclid.

(714) 778-0266

BERKELEY Ashkenaz - 1317 San Pablo Ave. (510) 525-5054 Nino's - 1916 Martin L King Jr. (510) 845-9303

LOS ANGELES 14 Below- 1348 14th St., Santa Monica. (310) 451-5040 BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

Brasil com S - Every Saturday, 9:00 PM with Judith King, 88.3 FM - WBGO Brazil Street Samba - Every Friday, 10:00 PM with Leo Costa & Alberto Lopes - 89.9 FM - WKCR Radio Amaz6nia - Every day, 6- 30 PM on short wave - 6.185 MHZ

Brazil Update - Every Saturday, 3:30 PM - Channel 69 Brazilians in America-TV - Every Sunday, 5:30 PM Channel 16

SUNDAY 28 NEW YORK 9:00 PM - Djavan at Blue Note

LOS ANGELES TUESDAY 30 SAN FRANCISCO 9:00 PM - Brazilian Rainbow Party at Bahia Cabana

WEDNESDAY 31 LOS ANGELES 8:30 PM - Axe, the Brazilian Jazz Ensemble at Zabumba

LARKSPUR, CAL.

RADIO

LOS ANGELES 9:30 PM - ULA Samba Band at Zabumba 9:30 PM - Constellation Band at Cafi Danssa

SAN FRANCISCO

9:00 PM - Djavan at Blue Note

NEW YORK

TV

9:00 PM - Djavan at Blue Note

WEDNESDAY 24 NEW YORK

Luqui Corporation -Jornal Bandeirantes - 11:00 pm 1:00 am, Dynamic ch. 20, S. South ch. 41, Gold Coast ch. 44, DCI ch. 45

7:00 PM - Kleber Jorge with Zelao at Ginga Brazil

6:00 PM to 9:00 PM - Axe, the Brazilian Jazz Ensemble at Fine Arts by Nun (213) 936-9144

9:00 PM - Brazilian Rainbow Party at Bahia Cabana

BIN (Brazilian TV Network) - 11:00 pm - 1:00 am, DCI ch. 40, S. South ch. 51, Adelphia ch. 52, Gold Coast ch. 99

Cafe Danssa - 11533 W. Pico 131. West L.A.- (310) 478-7866 Foothill - 1922 Cherry Ave. Long Beach -(310) 983-9190 La Ye Lee - 12514 Ventura Bl. - Studio City - (818) 980-8158 Zabumba -10717 Venice Blvd Culver City - (310) 841-6525

NEW YORK Blue Note - (212) 475-8592 SOB -(212) 307-7171 Supper Club -(212) 977-4414

Scala Brazil - (212) 243-4940

OAKLAND, CAL. Yoshi's -6030 Claremont Ave. (510) 652-9200

SAN DIEGO Café Sevilla - (619) 233-5979

S. FRANCISCO Brasileirinho - Every Wednesday, 9:30 PM, KZSC, 88.1 FM with Renato Frota Brasil Musical - Every Sunday, 1.00 PM - 5:00 PM, Radio Bilingue, 91.5 FM via satellite, with Ricardo and Amarina Pugh - Fresno Canta, Brasil - Every Sunday, 6:00 PM - 8:00 PM KKUP, 91.5 FM, with Xuxu, Maria Jose and David Heyman Programa de Domingo Every Sunday, 1:00 2:00 PM, KSQQ 96.1 FM with Lino Bu_gatti A Taste of Brazil - Every Sunday, 11:00 PM - 12:00 AM, KKSF, 103.7 with Dick Conte Tropicalia Brasiliana - Every Friday, 8:00 PM - 9.00 PM, KUSF, 90.3 with Raimundo Franco

S. FRANCISCO Bahia Cabana - 1600 Market St. (415) 861-4202 Chambord - 152 Kearney St. (415) 434-3688

51

Boston Area Books Livraria Plenitude (800) 532-5809 Consulate Consulado G. do Brasil (617) 617-542-4000 Dentist Sylvio P. Lessa (617) 924-1882 Food & Products Aqui Brazil (617) 787-0758 Brasil Brasil (617) 561-6094 Jerry's Cachaca (617) 666-5410 Instruction Braz. & Amer. Lg. Inst.

(617) 787-7716 Music Brazil CDs (617) 666-3747 Publications The Brazilian Monthly (617) 566-3651 Restaurants Café Brazil (617) 789-5980 Tropicalia (617) 567-4422 Pampas Churrascaria (617) 661-6613

Chicago Consulate Consulado G. do Brasil (312) 464-0244 Translations Portuguese Lang. Ctr. (312) 276-6683

Los Angeles Accountant Sheila Shanker (310) 836-3436 Airlines Varig (800) GO VARIG Vasp (310) 364-0160 Arts & Crafts Bakari Art Studio (213) 938-0523 Folk Creations (310) 693-2844 Uniquely Brazil - Folk (818) 458-1474 Zebi Designs (310) 391-6530 Auto Repair Cosmo Auto Parts (213) 259-9818 Banks Banco do Brasil (213) 688-2996 Catering Joy's Catering (310) 438-3415 Remi Vila Real (818) 280-0061 Clothes Samba (310) 628-9789 Summer Brazil (310) 455-1772 Clubs & Associations Chbr of Corn.

(310) 202-6820 52

Centro Cultural Gaucho (213) 256-6548 Clubinho da Crianca (818) 248-3667 M1LA - Samba School (310) 391-6098 SambaLi -Esc. de Samba (310) 628-9789 Computer Henriques - Maintenance (818) 767-5153 Consulate Brazilian Consulate (213) 651-2664 Dentists Gilberto Henriques (213) 464-0524 Jose Carlos D. Polido (714) 848-9200 Events Promotion Brazilian Nites Prod.

(818) 566-1111 Pegasus - Parties & Ent. (818) 549-0383 Ricardo Gehr (818) 831-0992 Food & Products Brazilian Market (310) 827-9139 I nii)orUE sport Brazil "R" US (310) 607-9771 N & R International (909) 626-3656 Instruction Brasil Brasil Cult. Ctr (310) 397-3667 Modern Lang. Center (310) 839-8427 Legal Services Meiojas & Ferraz (310) 360-0901 Music

Bossa Nova - Georgia (818) 891-0912 Braz. Jazz /All Occasions (310) 839-3788 Jazz - Richard Samuels (818) 798-5424 Physician Paulo Coharte (310) 285-9670 Deem Rangel (310) 828-7454 Ingrid Rodi - Gynec.

(310) 451-8144 Nilson A. Santos (213) 483-3430 Psychother/Counsel.

Elizabeth Almeida M.A. (310) 281-7536 Fatima Castro (310) 822-6770 Dr. Jefferson Se (818) 592-0402 Publications Brazzil (213) 255-4953 Real Estate Cent. 21 - Solon Pereira (310) 633-0787 Cold. Banker-J. Freitas (818) 304-9562 Restaurants & Cafes Bossa Nova (310) 657-5070 Brazilian Tropical (714) 720-1522

By Brazil (310) 787-7520 Café Brasil (310) 837-8957 Ginga Brasil (714) 778-0266 Lulu's Alibi (310) 479-6007 Yolie's Brazilian Steak (714) 251-0722

Zabumba (310) 841-6525 TranslatFin/Inturp

Brazilian Int. Affairs (310) 854-5881 Tocantins Communic.

(818) 248-3667 Travel/Tours Around the World Trl. (800) 471-6333 Brazil Air (800) 441-8515 Brazil Tours (818) 767-1200 Cheviot Hills Travel (310) 202-6264 F & H - Hotel Repres.

(800) 544-5503 IVA C. W. Travel (909) 988-7127

Miami Airlines Transbrasil (800) 872-3153 \Twig (800) 468-2744 Vasp (800) 732-8277 Banks Banco do Brasil (305) 358-3586 Banco Nacional (305) 372-0100 Banco Real (305) 358-2433

Banespa (305) 358-9167 Clubs & Associations

ABFC -As. Bras. da Flor.

(407) 354-5200

Cam. Corn. Brasil- EUA (305) 579-9030 AFtARA - Amazon. As. (813) 842-3161 Consulate Consulado do Brasil (305) 285-6200 Dentists Arnaldo Souza (305) 595-3238 Hedimo de Se (305) 262-8212 Food & Beverages All Braz. Imp. & Exp. (305) 523-8134

Guarani Esteves (305) 345-1540 Via Brasil (305) 866-7718 Physicians Dr. Jorge Macedo (305) 271-7311 Dr. Mario Sanches (305) 541-7819 Dr. Neri Franzen (305) 776-1412 Publications Florida Review (305) 374-5235 Restaurants

Brazilian Tropicana (305) 781-1113 Brazilian Delight (305) 374-0032 Brazilian Pie (305) 866-1001 Cheese Bread House (305) 443-5358 Gula Gula (305) 532-3636 Travel Agenci,

Brazilian Wave (305) 561-3788 Discover Brazil Tours (800) 524-3666 Euroamerica (305) 358-3003

International Tours (800) 822-1318 Luma Travel (305) 374-8635 Monark Travel

San Francisco Area

(305) 374-5855 New Port Tours (305) 372-5007 Venture Travel (305) 379-7678 Via Brasil Travel (305) 866-7580

Varig (415) 986-5737 Vasp (800) 732-VASP Attorney

M. C. Printing (510) 268-8967 Publications

Ralph Baker (510) 444-8100 Auto

Brazzil

Nelson Auto Body r (415)255.6717 Mans Auto Body (415) 565-3560 Beauty Salon

BOO KS

Luso-Brazilian Books (800) 727-LUSO Clubs & Associations Brazilian Ch. of Corn.

(212) 575-9030

Bibbo (415) 421-BIBO Carmen's International (415) 433-9441 Neyde's

Brazilian Corn. Bureau (212) 916-3200

Brazilian Trade Bur. (212) 224-6280 Consulate

(415) 681-5355 Clubs

Brazilian Gen. Cons.

(212) 757-3080

B.A.S.O. (415) 661-2788 Bay Area Brasilian Club (415) 334-0106 Computer Micronet (415) 665-1994 Consulate

Food & Products

Amazonia (718) 204-1521 Cobs Nossa (201) 578-2675 Merchant Express (201) 589-5884 Publications The Brasilians (212) 382-1630

(718) 937-0574 Restaurants

Brazilian Consulate (415) 981-8170 Dance Instruction Aquarela , (510) 548-1310

Brazil Culture & Arts (510) 215-8202 Ginga Brasil '(510) 428-0698 * Escola Nova de Samba t (415) 661-4798 Samba do Coracao (415) 826-2588 Samba, Swing & Suor , (415) 282-7378

I

Brasilia (212) 869-9200 Brazil 2000 (212) 877-7730 Brazilian Pavillion (212) 758-8129 Cabana Carioca (212) 581-8088 Indigo Blues (212) 221-0033 S.O.B. (212) 243-4940 Travel Agencies Barb Tour Service (201) 313-0996

International Sandfly (718) 699-2900 Mystical Destinations (718) 956-1630 Nascente Travel (718) 545-0608 Odyssea Travel Service; (212) 826-3019 Santos Dumont Int. (212) 764-5680

San Diego Attorney

Ivan Porto (800) 314-4826 Clubs & Associations Clubs Bras. San Diego (619) 295-0842

Sunday Night Cl. Brazil (619) 233-5979 Import/Export

Brazil Imports (619) 234-3401 Money Remittance

Vigo-California 619) 479-WOO

Printing

Airlines

New York New Jersey

Brazilian Voice (201) 955-1137 Portugal-Brasil News (212) 228-2958 Samba Newsletter

Musical Instruments Tamborim & Samba (415) 871-2201 Physician Dr. Guilherme Salgado (415) 832-6219

Dental Care Roberto Sales, DDS (510) 451-8315 Food Brazilian Coffee Dist.

(415) 648-5966 California Produce (415) 586-6200

HGC Imp. Wholesale (408) 947-8511 Instruction Portuguese - A. Frame (510) 339-9289 Portuguese Lang. Serv.

(415) 587-4990 Money Remittance Via Brazil (415) 673-0262

Vigo (415) 863-0218 West Brazil (415) 695-9258 Music Fogo na Roupa (510) 464-5999

Marcos Silva (510) 945-0138 Terra Sul (415) 752-9782 Viva Brazil (415) 342-8508 Voz do Brazil (415) 586-2276

Brazil Today (510) 526-1115 (415) 587-4990 Restaur./Night Clubs Bahia Cabana (415) 861-4202 Balboa Braz. Rest.

(415) 387-1118 Café do Brasil (415) 626-6432 Café Mardi Gras (415) 864-6788 Canto do Brasil (415) 626-8727 Colusa Restaurant (415) 526-1500 Joio's Restaurant (408) 244-1299 Little Rio (415) 441-3344 Michelangelo Café (415) 986-4058

Mozzarela Di-Bufala (415) 346-9888 Nino's (510) 845-9303 Stelladoro (415) 928-2662 Taqueria Goyaz (415) 821-4600 Soccer Sunset Soccer Supply (415) 753-2666 Translation Port. Lang. Services (415) 587-4990 Travel Agencies Rio Roma (415) 921-3353 Santini Tours (510) 843-2363 Tropical Travel (510) 655-9904 Tucanos Travel

ashington DC Area Airlines Transbrasil (202) 775-9180 Varig (202) 331-8913 Vasp (202) 822-8277 Banks Banco do Brasil (202) 857-0320 Banco do Est. de S. Paulo (202) 682-1151 Clubs & Associations Braz. Am. Cult. Inst.

(202) 362-8334 Inst of Brazil. Business (202) 994-5205 Embassy Embaixada do Brasil (202) 745-2700 Travel Agencies Intern. Discount Travel (703) 750-0101 Washington Travel (703) 527-6977 BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

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53

An excerpt A nation is not made up merely of geography, history, politics, economics, and society. These help shape its soul — its culture — but they are also shaped by it. Understanding a country's culture becomes even more important when it is little known to the outside world, as is the case with Brazil. Within broad limits a general Hispanic American culture exists into which Brazil only partially fits.

Yet it contributes heavily to an emerging more diverse Latin American culture also containing important Caribbean elements.

Brazil's continuing progress toward achieving a national identity consonant with its increasing integration into the broader international system is profoundly reflected in the cultural realm.

Distinctly Brazilian qualities combined with fuller awareness of global trends are evident in literature, music, architecture, and television; they are significantly present in painting and cinema and slowly emerging in theater. Machado de Assis, Jorge Amado, Villa-Lobos, Oscar Niemeyer, Portinari , di Cavalcanti, and Glauber Rocha are thoroughly Brazilian in themes and styles, in concerns and their expression, at the same time as they are part of the developing great global culture — particularly its Atlantic basin core. Brazil's culture continues to interact with the outside world as it feeds upon internal sources and inspirations.

Although a considerable gap still exists in Brazil between popular culture and fine arts, there is an approximation of folk art and music with the Europeaninfluenced sophisticated tendencies in these fields. Meanwhile literature is reaching the masses through the electronic media and films as well as by means of increased dissemination of books and magazines. As with so many aspects of Brazilian reality, elite culture and that of the masses meet and mingle at the level of the middle classes. Within the realm of communications the electronic media— especially television— have come within a single generation to have an enormous impact, even greater upon the largely unschooled broad bottom of the social pyramid than upon those whose literacy and access to print media expose them to other sources of information and opinion. Prime-time novelas have a hold on the public far beyond that exerted by soaps or prime-time series in the United States. Moreover, political campaigning in Brazil has come to rely more upon television than face-to-face contact with the voters. Despite the blurring caused by the homogenizing media and internal migration, distinctive regional types and cultural variations survive in Brazil Along with other customs and practices heavily affecting economic and political life as well as social relations, these require consideration — as do their reflections in the arts.

Cultural Traits and the Media Racial and religious tendencies discussed in the previous chapter are impor-

54

Chico Buarque de Holanda, the most

WirliiiMaffilleriraWF1

tant aspects of what makes Brazil, Brazil.

The essence of Brasilianidade is elusive, in large part because of the multiple nonBrazilian influences upon Brazilian society and culture. Likely to be cordial, adaptable, and conciliatory (often more in form than in substance), Brazilians are apt to manifest other traits depending upon the socialization process to which they have been subjected. This varies by individual with social origin, as the family is prime agent of socialization for large numbers little affected by the educational system or by organized religion.

Television exercises a fundamentally homogenizing effect in spreading a more national culture to the detriment of once very distinct regional variations.

Types of Brazilians and "Universal" Characteristics

sti ctly prazt Ian alities combined ith fuller-awaieness of gobaI trends ar evident in Iiteratiié, music architecture, ,the and t

Regional types, blurred by internal migration and the effects of the mass media, are still important in Brazil. Indeed, given the lesser impact of formal education and the absence of immigration in comparison to the United States, they are probably more distinctive than the analogous variations (New Yorker, New Englander, Southerner, Texan, Midwesterner, etc.). Thus the prototype Paulista (resident of Sao Paulo) is the country's most pragmatic, materialistic, and hardworking strain — mated to a strong sense of superiority — whereas the Carioca (Rio de Janeiro resident) is more pleasure-seeking, laid back, and perhaps a bit devious (if not a real malandro, or mischievous rascal) behind a facade of openness. Yet there are millions of internal immigrants in these urban states who do not demonstrate the same characteristics as do the lifelong residents of Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.

The stereotype also better fits the Paulistanos, residents of the great metropolis, than the inhabitants of the interior of the premier state.

To the typical Mine iro (from Minas Gerais), Paulistas are pushy and often obnoxiously domineering, and Cariocas are apt to be lazy and unreliable, even shiftless. Mine iros tend to be thoughtful, taciturn, and conciliatory — but also inclined to be moody. Their reputation for being wily and sagacious is, in the eyes of Paulistas and Cariocas, often carried to the point of frustrating inscrutability.

Baianos reflect an Afro-Portuguese synthesis relatively free from other ethnic roots and are considered sensuous and preoccupied with food. In contrast, Gatichos (from Rio Grande do Sul) seem to be displaced Europeans demonstrating traits identified with Mediterranean peoples, particularly Italians. To Mineiros they appear loud, direct to the point of rudeness, and unduly intransigent— veritable "Argentines", For their part Gatichos prefer to interpret what others see as boisterous and belligerent as energetic, active, and productive.

To a high degree, a person in Brazil is important more for his relationships and

3PAZZII JUI 199E

ties than for himself. An observation forcefully portrayed by Roberto da Matta is that individuals without links to a person or institution of prestige in Brazilian society are treated as inferiors. Faced with a situation in which a North American might expect the law to be applied in a straightforward manner, Brazilians will resort to the classic "do you know to whom you are speaking?" This is intended to point out the status the individual wishes to invoke as justification for contending that the law was not intended for a special person such as he or she should be perceived as being. For most Brazilians the law may be appropriate for others, but theirs is an exceptional case to be resolved on a personal basis.

This projects onto the political scene with the famous dictum "for my friends everything; for my enemies the law."

Parentela is a fundamental characteristic of Brazilian life, and understanding it aids comprehending why certain things happen and how many things get done. Essentially this is rooted in the importance of the extended family to Brazilians. As perceptively described by Charles Wagley, this type of kinship group (at times approaching a small clan in extension and inclusiveness) has traditionally been the "most important single institution in Brazil." Involving relatives plus a full array of in-laws, the parentela has on its fringes an assortment of informally adopted individuals and even family retainers. Its range is extended by the importance still given to comadres and compadres (godparents) by afilhados (godchildren) and their families. Even today in traditional areas, parentelas are a critical political factor, much more profound than the conventional North American or European concept of nepotism.

Even among members of modern urban society for whom parentela is less key because of physical distance from the bulk of their kinfolk, family remains crucial. As da Matta has shown, the domain of the home is important for Brazilians at all social levels. There the individual finds love, harmony, tolerance, decency, generosity, and hospitality often lacking in the outside world. Within the home everyone is unique and irreplaceable, enjoying rights and position independent of accomplishment along with a safe haven from the perils and frustrations of life outside its purview. In the dog-eat-dog domain of the street, individuals are unable to control their lives. These two spheres of life interact with the transcendental or supernatural, which calls into play sentiments of universal love, altruism, and collectivism.

This approach holds strong appeal to the poor and unsuccessful, since at its core is the idea that in the world after death they may finally receive the justice and equality denied them in this difficult existence.

Umbanda and popular Catholicism provide these persons with a taste of this reward on earth within them the individual has a chance to rise above his workaday status.

BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

Da Matta stresses that lines of power within the value spheres represented by Carnaval, Holy Week, and Independence Day converge in the recurrent search for the perfect leader/messianic figure. When the complementarity of these domains is not seriously questioned, integration is through personal relationships and patronage; when it is challenged, there is a proclivity to call in the providential man who will unite them in an absolutist manner — an explanation congruent with the non-ideological and largely non-class basis of Brazilian electoral politics.

The brokering, clientelistic nature of the Brazilian political-governmental system reflects the pervasive role of the panelinha, an informal group of a closed nature bound together by common interests and personal ties. Its essence lies in having members in a variety of complementary positions in the s9ciopoliticaleconomic structure, and in its negative manifestations it may give rise to a kin of amoral cronyism.

One ofthe most important of the type of personal links that maintain connec tions among interests, organizations, an agencies, panelinha is difficult to iden tify and trace, since there is no forma record of its existence. Many of the mys-, teries and most of the odd bedfellows of Brazilian politics are not at all mysterious or odd once the intersecting panelinhas and parentelas involved are known.

The famous Brazilian jeitinho (the talent for mixing a good deal of ingenuity with a dash — or more — of bending thei rules) is founded in the deeply felt needi to reconcile a personal problem or convenience with the bothersome impersonality of the laws and rules. Thus in the face of a bureaucratic response that something cannot be done, or at least not at that time or in the way that the solicitant desires, the impasse is broken by invoking some factor that makes the functionary inclined to see this as a special case to be resolved within the spirit of the law rather than its inflexible letter. Pistolelo, resort to influence and connections, may be involved, but the typical jeitinho approach is more likely to involve a common tie that enables the two parties to relate more as equals. A mutual friend, preference for the same soccer team or samba school, or origins in the same state are catalysts often invoked.

Together with the interacting spheres of existence and values, parentela, panelinha, and jeitinho serve as means for reconciling the modern and the traditional, certainly a continuing need for citizens of changing but not yet transformed Brazil. To understand Brazil, it helps to realize that there remains a degree of admiration for the malandro, seeker of the good life through craftiness and sharp dealing with the minimum expenditure of regular or disciplined effort.

This distinctive type — of which a large proportion of Brazilians incorporate at least a few traits — has been enshrined in Brazilian literature.

A Word on the Media Mass media have become very important in Brazil; there are 900 'magazines, 1,650 newspapers (300 dailies), 3,000 radio stations, and 315 television stations. Brazilian homes contain 40 million television sets and twice as many radios. Some $3.35 billion is spent yearly on television advertising — dwarfing the amount for the print media — and nearly half goes to the dominant Globo network. A distant second is SBT, headed by popular master of ceremonies Silvio Santos, with nearly 15 percent of advertising revenues. Whereas SBT concentrates on lower-income groups, Manchete, a network in dire financial straits, aims at the upper strata of "discriminating viewers," and Bandeirantes emphasizes sports.

As television viewing has risen, moviegoing has fallen from 275 million paid tickets in 1975 to but 75 million by 1992, rising with economic recovery to 85 million in 1995 as new movie houses opened.

On the print side, 360 million books are sold annually. The leading newsweekly Veja has a circulation surpassing 1 million, twice that of its chief competitor, IstoE, which is followed by the heavily pictorial Manchete at 130,000.

Sao Paulo-based Folha de S. Paulo leads daily newspapers in circulation at 700,000 rising to 1.7 million on Sundays, followed by Rio de Janeiro's 0 Globo (370,000 and 1 million) and conservative 0 Estado de S. Paulo. As the second of these is part of a media empire including the country's nearly hegemonic television network, it is extremely influential, which makes its owner, octogenarian Roberto Marinho, one of the nation's leading movers and shakers. The Editora Abril group of magazines, with Veja as its flagship, has attributed its inability to break into the electronic media to a close relationship between Marinho and former communications minister and PFL strongman Ant6nio Carlos Magalhaes.

These individuals are part of a panelinha in which lack of change in the vast Bahian hinterlands is a requisite to retaining control of the state. On the other hand, cultural change is crucial to the political projects of other actors on the Brazilian scene, especially those of a progressive inclination.

The Written Word Brazil has developed a rich literary tradition, particularly in fiction, reflective of its complex culture and society.

Indeed, deepened understanding of critical aspects of Brazilian society and politics — class and race relations, regionalism, patronage populism, and co-optative clientelism — emerges from literary works. Hence separation of literature from other published fruits of intellectual endeavor inhibits understanding ofthe country and its people. The writers discussed here are important creative intellectuals who have had lasting influence in the hemisphere, and several are notable on

55

the wider global scene.

The Empire and Old Republic Forebears of the broad and deep body of writings reflecting Brazilian character and concerns developed the themes of Indianism and regionalism. Brazil's first truly great international figure, Joaquim Maria Machado de Assis (18391908), catalyzed the early years of the republic as a period of intellectual explosion and affirmation of Brazilian culture. This upwardly mobile mulatto demonstrated profound insights into human nature in poetry, short stories, and novels. His masterpieces include Memorias P6stumas de Bras Cubas (1881, translated as Epitaph of a Small Winner, 1952); Quincas Borba (1891, in English as Philosopher or Dog? 1953); and Dom Casmurro (1900, in English in 1954).

Set in the Rio de Janeiro of his times, these magnificent novels probe the relationship of individuals to society with a basic pessimism relieved by brilliant flashes of wit and humor tinged with irony.

Brazil's nineteenth-century intellectual life extended beyond literature.

Joaquim Nabuco (1849-1910) was a distinguished politician and diplomat from Pernambuco best remembered as the articulate and fiery advocate of abolition.

Bahia produced the even larger figure of Ruy Barbosa (1849-1923), orator and essayist par excellence, who would nearly be elected president. The opening decades of the twentieth century were graced by Alberto Torres (1865-1917), who laid a foundation for a search for Brazil's identity and destiny. His sociological probings were followed up by Francisco Jose de Oliveira Vianna (18851951), who continued the call for introspection rather than imitation well into the 1930s.

By the 1920s and 1930s Sao Paulo's versatile Mario de Andrade (1895-1945) captained the tardy arrival of Brazil's economic and industrial engine on the literary scene. In 1928 his masterful prose poem Macunaima: 0 Herai sem Nenhum Caroler (Macunaima: Hero Without Any Character) propelled the quest for truly Brazilian themes and more original styles of expression. Deeply steeped in Brazilian folk culture, Andrade created in Macunaima a figure embodying all the strengths and weaknesses of Brazilian character. The first of Brazil's great twentieth-century regionalists was Graciliano Ramos (1892-1953) from the northeastern state of Alagoas, whose most famous work was the highly moving Vidas Secas (1938, translated as Barren Lives, 1965).

The Contemporary Literary Scene There was a greater talent developing in the shadow of Andrade and Ramos — Jorge Amado (b. 1912). In Jubiaba (1935, in English in 1984) Amado demonstrated signs of the great writer he was

soon to become, and Capita-es da Areia (The Beach Waifs, 1937) gave him six novels by the age of twenty-five. These were surpassed in 1943 by his powerful Terras do Sem Fim (translated as The Violent Land in 1945). From this point on political insight was gradually subordinated to a deepening appreciation of human nature and an extraordinary ability to develop memorable characters, as apparent in 1958 with a work destined to become a major international success in three media— Gabriela: Cravo e Canela (Gabriela: Clove and Cinnamon in English in 1962). In 1966 came Dona Flor e Seus Dois Maridos (1966, in English as Dona Flor and Her Two Husbands in 1969). Later came the evocative Tieta do Agreste (English title Tieta: the Goat Girl, 1979) and Tocaia Grande (translated in 1988 as Showdown), followed in 1988 by 0 Sumico da Santa (in English as The War of the Saints in 1993).

Just as Machado de Assis was Brazil's — and possibly the Portuguese-speaking world's — greatest writer of the 1800s, Amado earned this distinction in the rigorous competition of the twentieth century as he developed from a powerful portrayer of social protest to a magnificent purveyor of Bahia' s culture and character, then on to a profound student of human nature. Yet two other major Brazilian novelists managed not to be eclipsed by the Bahia master. Joao Guimaraes Rosa (1908-1967) wrote powerfully and often movingly of life in the vast interior region of southern Bahia and northern Minas Gerais, most notably in his 1956 novel of survival and violence, Grande Sertdo: Veredas (translated in 1963 as The Devil to Pay in the Backlands). The Brazilian south gave rise to Erico Verissimo (1905-1975), whose masterwork was the five-volume 0 Tempo e o Vento (Time and Wind, 1950).

Also overlapping the Amado era were Brazil's first notable female writers. On the strength of novels written in her youth, Ceara's Rachel de Queiroz (b. 1910) would be the first woman elected to the Brazilian Academy of Letters. Clarice Lispector (1920-1977) made her mark in 1961 with A Macti no Escuro (translated in 1967 as The Apple in the Dark). The space left by her untimely death was partially filled by Nelida Pition (b. 1937) best known for her 1984 novel A Repfiblica dos Sonhos (The Dream Republic).

The intellectual tradition of Nabuco, Barbosa, Torres, and Oliveira Vianna remained alive in mid- and late-twentiethcentury Brazil. Gilberto de Mello Freyre (1900-1987) was as faithful to his Pernambuco roots as Amado to Bahian origins. His monumental work on Brazilian social history, enriched by broad anthropological training, includes Casa Grande e Senzala (1933, translated as The Masters and the Slaves in 1946).

Afonso (also spelled Affonso) Arinos de Mello Franco (1905-1990) — statesman, politician, and constitutional lawyer — may well be the greatest intellectual pro-

duced by Minas Gerais. Of most lasting value among his many books is the multivolume Um Estadista da Repfiblica (A Statesman of the Republic, 1955).

The Brazilian social sciences continue to produce a diversity of intellectuals.

Florestan Fernandes (1920-1995), mentor of many Brazilian sociologists, is the radical Left's leading interpreter of Brazilian society. One of his students, Fernando Henrique Cardoso (b. 1931), was a world-renowned sociologist before entering politics and being elected president. Hello Jaguaribe Gomes de Mattos (b. 1923) has authored trenchant contemporary analyses of Brazil's sociopolitical conditions, and Celso Furtado (b. 1920) gained international renown with his ideas on development and dependency.

Music and Theater In the musical realm development of distinctively Brazilian compositions and performing styles came later than in literature. The major achievement is a creative synthesis of the music of Brazilian Indians, African slaves, and that introduced by European immigrants — accompanied by absorption of external influences such as jazz. Although there have been notable Brazilians in the field of classical music — including the hemisphere's most important operatic composer of the nineteenth century and Latin America's greatest composer of this century — popular music has been the sector of greatest relative development, and a talented generation of songwriters and singers rose in the 1960s on the foundations laid by many distinguished precursors. In the theater realm Brazil's tradition is more respectable than distinguished but has established a foundation for notable performance in television and film.

Composers and Performers The first Brazilian in the music field to earn international recognition was operatic composer Antonio Carlos Gomes (1836-1896). His II Guarany was an overnight success in Milan in 1870. Heitor Villa-Lobos (1887-1959) is the towering figure of Brazilian music. With a hundred compositions to his credit, Villa-Lobos played a major role in the modernism movement during the 1920s. Blending technical sophistication, great originality, and typical Brazilian themes, he climbed in the 1920s and 1930s to the pinnacle of international fame and national adulation.

His -Choros" and "Bachianas Brasileiras" —composed between 1930 and 1945 and successfully bringing Bachian procedures to Brazilian folk and popular music — stand out along with his seven operas, dozen symphonies, chamber music, and piano pieces. Villa-Lobos considered composing a "biological necessity," and his prodigious output that reached over a thousand works across well more than half a century did much to put Brazil on the global cultural scene.

In the field of popular music Chiquinha

BRAZZIL - JULY 1996

Gonzaga (Francisca Edwiges Neves Gonzaga, 1847-1935) in 1899 composed "Abre Alas" (Open Wings), a pathbreaker in developing the samba as a song form.

The 1930s and 1940s witnessed further sophistication of the samba at the hands of Ari Evangelista Barroso (1903-1964), composer of the unforgettable "Aquarela do Brasil." Portuguese-born Carmen Miranda (Maria do Carmo Miranda da Cunha, 1909-1955), was a multifaceted performer whose greatest international fame came through Hollywood films. The 1960s were the heyday of the bossa nova and launching pad for many great talents of Brazilian popular music. Dean of this movement was composer-performer Antonio Carlos "Tom" Jobim (19271994), best known for his international hit "A Garota de Ipanema" (The Girl from Ipanema). On his heels came two towering talents: Roberto Carlos (Braga, b. 1943) and Chico Buarque (Francisco Buarque de Holanda, b.1944). The former, Brazil's answer to Elvis Presley, established himself as a star in 1963 with his recording of "Calhambeque" (The Jalopy). He continued into the 1990s with his popularity and earnings undiminished.

Like many other Brazilian entertainers, he has recorded also in Spanish and his following has spread throughout South America.

The most complete Brazilian musical talent of this extraordinary generation is Chico Buarque, a singer of note but more famous as a composer. With a solid musical background gained in Europe, this Sao Paulo resident burst on the Brazilian scene in 1965 with "Pedro Pedreiro" (Pete the Stonemason). He became internationally known the next year for his "A Banda" (The Band). Through the 1970s he was responsible for a large share of the country's musical events — including his 1979 musical "Opera do Malandro" (The Rascal's Opera). Many of his recent compositions fall into the category of socially relevant light opera.

Another extraordinary talent who had a profound impact upon Brazilian popular music from the 1950s through the 1970s was Vinicius de Moraes (Marcus Vinicius da Cruz de Melo Moraes, 19131980). Poet, lyricist, and composer, he used music to reach the masses with his poetic vision and in the process enriched and elevated their literary tastes. In the mid-1950s he had Tom Jobim compose music for his poem "Orfeu do Carnaval," which was filmed by French director Marcel Camus as Orfeu Negro (Black Orpheus); the film won first place at Cannes in 1957 as well as the Oscar for best foreign film — in the process bringing Brazil to the attention of the cinema world. "Vinicius," as he was known, remained at his death Brazil's people's poet, beloved both for his talent and his irrepressible Bohemian lifestyle that embodied the Brazilian lust for life.

The Stage The theater remained essentially de-

BRAZIL - JULY 1996

rivative of Portuguese and other European models even past the intellectual and artistic ferment of the 1920s. The 1940s witnessed the arrival on the scene of Brazil's one truly major author for the theater, Nelson Rodrigues (1913-1980).

Beginning with Vestido de Noiva (The Wedding Dress) in 1943, Rodrigues developed his fascination with sin and guilt, particularly their impact upon the family, in over a dozen plays. Album de Familia (Family Album, 1946) and A Falecida (The Dead Woman, 1953) clearly earned him a place among the hemisphere's leading playwrights. Rodrigues's death left Alfredo Dias Gomes (b. 1923) as Brazil' premier playwright. Author in 1959 of Pagador de Promessas (The Give Word), which as a film won first place at Cannes in 1962, he is best known for 0

To the typical Mineiro (from Minas Gerais), Paulistas are pushy and often obnoxiously domineering, and Cariocas are apt to be lazy and unreliable, even shiftless.

Bern Amado (The Beloved). Written as a play at the beginning of the 1960s, it enjoyed a long television run beginning in 1973. Together with poet-playwright Ferreira Gullar (b. 1930 as Jose Ribamar Ferreira) in 1968 he wrote Dr. GetOio, a greater hit as a musical in 1983 with a score by Chico Buarque and Edu Lobo.

On the acting side, Cacilda Becker (Yaconis, b. 1922), Tonia Carrero (b.

1923), and Fernanda Montenegro (b.

1926) initiated long and distinguished stage careers in the 1940s. Procopio Ferreira (1898-1979), in his prime perhaps Latin American theater's most versatile actor, was followed by a series of major male performers who gained greater prominence through movies and television.

Cinema and Electronic Media Brazil enjoyed a one-generation blossoming in the realm of film and has made great strides in television. Indeed, its novelas, a cross between shows like Dallas or Dynasty and afternoon soap operas but generally better written and acted, are avidly watched in countries as diverse as Italy and China. Because of its greater economic viability, television has become the sustenance of most Brazilian actors and actresses. They can earn a living in the electronic media, doing occasional movies and stagework between stints in novelas or miniseries. Television, much more than film and theater, reaches the vast majority of the Brazilian population — even in interior hamlets — and for better or worse has a cultural impact far beyond that of the print media. Millions of Brazilians are familiar with the country's literary works through their television adaptations and see movies only on television, which has become even a lower-class household necessity.

Film and Filmmakers Brazil's film industry exploded to international attention in the 1950s and 1960s. It first awakened attention abroad in the mid-1950s with Victor Lima Barreto's 0 Cangaceiro (The Bandit, 1953), winner of the 1954 best adventure film award at Cannes, and Nelson Pereira dos Santos's 1955 Rio Quarenta Graus (Rio, Heatwave). The real explosion came in the following decade: Ruy Guerra (b.1931 Ruy Alexandre Guerra Coelho), an immigrant from Mozambique working in Brazil since 1958, directed Os Cafajestes (The Hustlers) in 1961.

Anselmo Duarte (b. 1920) won the best film award at Cannes in 1962 with 0 Pagador de Promessas (The Given Word); the same year Roberto Farias (b.

1932) directed Assalto ao Trem Pagador (The Paytrain Robbery). In 1964 Leon Hirszman (1937-1987) made Nelson Rodrigues's A Falecida into a film, Nelson Pereira dos Santos showed that his earlier triumph was no fluke with a critically acclaimed adaptation of Graciliano Ramos's masterpiece, Vidas Secas. In 1969 Joaquim Pedro de Andrade (1932-1988) pulled off the difficult challenge of bringing Mario de Andrade's Macunaima to the big screen. Brazil's new cinema was well under way.

This impressive forward surge of the Brazilian cinema was soon all but overshadowed by the emergence of the country's true filmmaking genius. Coming out of Bahia, Glauber Rocha (19381981) made an impact upon the international cinematic world before his premature death. In 1964 he unveiled his masterpiece, Deus e o Diabo na Terra do Sol (God and the Devil in the Scorching Land, titled in English Black God, White Devil).

Terra em Transe (Anguished Land) followed in 1966 with the highly controversial Cabecas Cortadas (Severed Heads) in 1970. His production then fell off

57

sharply until his ambitious Idade da Terra (Earth's Age) in 1980. This highly symbolic film did not gain the critical accolades Rocha was expecting — he had won the Cannes best director award in 1969 — and the frustration of being misunderstood added to the emotional travail that preceded his untimely death.

Yet his legacy was more than just his films, as many of his varied writings on films and filmmaking were subsequently brought together in 0 Seculo da Cinema (The Cinema Century, 1983).

Brazilian moviemaking did not die with Rocha. In 1982 Bruno Barreto (b.

1954) brought out Am ado's Gabriela, a follow-up to his 1976 success with Am ado' s Dona Flor. Argentine-born Hector Babenco (b. 1946), in Brazil since 1967, gained international attention for his deeply moving 1980 film of the tragedy of Sao Paulo street urchins, Pixote: A Lei do Mais Fraco (Pixote: Law of the Weakest). This success, which included the New York Film Critics best picture award, enabled him to get William Hurt and Raul Julia to star in Kiss of the Spiderwoman filmed in Sao Paulo in 1983. Its success included an Oscar for Hurt. Alongside Babenco stands the innovative Tizuka Yamasaki (b. 1948), whose 1980 film Gaijin: Os Caminhos da Liberdade (Gaij in: The Ways of Liberty) probed the life of Japanese immigrants in the early 1900s. Her 1983 film Parahyba, Mu/her Macho (Paraiba, Macho Woman) passionately explores the dilemmas of a liberated woman in the male-dominated ferment of the 1920s in Brazil's northeast.

On the performing side, following Carmen Miranda, Sonia Braga (b. 1950) went on to international fame through Dona Flor and Gabriela. Marilia Pera (b.

1943) won the New York Film Critics award in 1981 as the year's best actress for her role in Pixote. Fernanda Torres (b. 1962), daughter of Fernanda Montenegro, emerged in the 1980s as the leading new serious movie actress, winning the Cannes best actress award in 1986 for the title role in Arnaldo Jabor's Eu Sei que Vou Te Amar (I Know That I Am Going to Love You).

Television The television novela has become an integral part of the Brazilian way of life, from the presidential palace and corporate boardrooms down into the urban slums and out to the small towns of the interior. Running six days a week, they dominate prime-time programming; the Globo network — fourth largest in the world behind the US big three — is accustomed to its eight P.M. show being the keystone of Brazil's viewing habits. Creations of proven authors are likely to be stretched out for nine months before winding up the complex affairs of their characters to the public's satisfaction. Often the basic theme is chosen to correspond to topics recently capturing public attention.

58

With television as a serious medium in Brazil, the country's top actors and actresses appear regularly. Established stage and screen stars have found a much wider audience and popular recognition through these vehicles; a new generation made the novelas the foundation of their careers. Then there are other types of television personalities such as megaimpresario Silvio Santos (b. 1930 as Senor Abravanel), owner of the SBT network and the continent's most popular game show host; comedy kings Chico Anisio (b. 1931 Francisco Anisio de Oliveira Paulo Filho) and Jo Soares (b.

1937 Jose Eugenio Soares); and Renato "Didi" Aragao (b. 1935), key to the eternally popular Os Trapalhaes (The Bumblers).

"Xuxa" (Maria da Graca Meneghel, b.1963) is a show-business phenomenon who has progressed from emcee of a wildly popular children's show to international recording star with a $19 million annual gross. In 1993 she moved into the US market.

Art and Architecture Brazil's older cities abound with magnificent churches filled with beautiful sacred art from the colonial period — Portuguese in inspiration in most of the country but profoundly Dutch in Recife and certain other areas of the northeast.

Salvador, Ouro Preto, and Olinda are cities in which colonial architecture has best been preserved, though Rio de Janeiro has its share. Then, too, native arts and handicrafts abound, including marvelous wood carvings, soapstone sculptures, and delicate lacework. There is also a modern European-oriented tradition in the fine arts embracing two great twentieth-century painters and several highly creative architects. Even a quick trip along Rio de Janeiro's Ipanema, Sao Paulo's Avenida Paulista, or Brasilia's central axis will bring this home with great visual impact.

Painting and Sculpture Unlike the boom in Brazilian music, there has not been a resurgence in the present generation to substitute for the disappearance from the scene of the great painters who so advanced Brazil's art world from the 1930s through the 1950s.

In sculpture no one in the last 180 years has remotely compared with Antonio Francisco Lisboa, known as "Aleijadinho" (Little Cripple, c. 1738-1814), who was not only the greatest Brazilian artistic talent of the colonial period but very likely the most important the country has yet produced. Working largely with Brazilian soapstone — particularly after his leprosy forced him to use tools tied to his wrist stumps — he turned out an incredible number of statues, the most famous of which are the strong yet enormously sensitive Twelve Apostles outside the church of Born Jesus de Matosinhos in Congonhas do Campo,

Minas Gerais.

Brazilian painting, the art form most highly developed in the national period, was highly derivative of European styles until well into the twentieth century. Lazar Segall (1891-1957), a Lithuanian immigrant with a solid background of study in Germany, was followed by two artistic talents of unquestioned global significance. Di Cavalcanti (Emiliano Augusto Cavalcanti de Albuquerque Melo, 18971976) is renowned for paintings of people and Brazilian landscapes, and Candid() Torquato Portinari (1903-1962) ranks with the century's great muralists. His War and Peace graces the United Nations in New York, and another stunning work adorns the walls of the Library of Congress in Washington.

Architecture and Landscape Artistry It may be that Aleijadinho's true successors are not to be found in the field of sculpture, though Victor Brecheret (18941956) with his imposing Monument to the Pioneers, carved into a granite block 167 feet long, is of major note. They might better be sought in architecture, the modern era of which began in the 1920s with the visit to Brazil of CharlesEdouard Jeanneret "Le Corbusier" (18871965), who became the high priest of Brazilian architecture. The key figuresof this explosion of new ideas and buildings during the 1930s through the 1960s were Oscar Niemeyer (Soares Filho, b. 1907) and Ldcio Costa (b. 1902, France). The former became famous in the early 1940s for his highly imaginative church and restaurant buildings on the outskirts of Belo Horizonte; Costa built an outstanding reputation in both restoration of old cities and design of modern residences.

In the late 1950s the former as architect and the latter as urban planner collaborated in the design of Brasilia, built in the middle of an interior plateau. Costa's plan of the city as a large airplane with its wings extending along the shores of an artificial lake and its body including governmental buildings blended with Niemeyer's striking architecture — ranging between modern and futuristic — as exemplified in the Congress, presidential palace, and supreme court.

A uniquely Brazilian talent, equal in his own way to Niemeyer and Costa, was Roberto Burle Marx (1909-1994), who was much more than a landscape artist.

As illustrated by his mid- 1991 exhibit at New York's Museum of Modern Art, he can well be considered an artist whose paintings were large, alive, and done with flowers and plants instead of oils and canvas. Colors, textures, materials, levels, and space were all blended by this genius in true manifestations of the Brazilian spirit.

Excerpt from Brazil: Culture and Politics in a New Industrial Powerhouse by Ronald M. Schneider, 256 pp.

Copyright ® 1996 by WestviewPress.

Reprinted by permission of WestviewPress.

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