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Brazzil - Year 7 - Number 121 - January 1996

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Speak Portuguese like a Diplomat!

What sort of people need to learn a foreign language as quickly and effectively as possible? Foreign Service personnel, that's who. Members of the United States diplomatic corps are assigned to embassies abroad, where they must be able to converse fluently in every situation. Now you can learn to speak Brazilian Portuguese just as these diplomatic personnel do — with the Foreign Service Institute's Programmatic Portuguese Course. Tens of thousands of dollars were spent by the United States government in developing this course. It's by far the most effective way to learn Portuguese at your own convenience and at your own pace. The Programmatic Portuguese Course consists of a series of tape cassettes and an accompanying textbook. You simply follow the spoken and written instructions, listening and repeating. By the end of the course, you'll find yourself learning and speaking entirely in Portuguese! This course turns your cassette player into a "teaching machine." With its unique "programmatic" learning method, you set your own pace — testing yourself, correcting errors, reinforcing accurate responses. This Programmatic Course comes in two volumes, each shipped in a handsome library binder. Order either or save 10% by ordering both: O

Basic Portuguese Vol. 1. 16 cassettes (19 hr.), 783-page text, $215.

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auDIa.caum® Suite P623, 96 Broad Street, Guilford, CT 06437 Yes! I want to speak Portuguese like a diplomat. Rush me the course volumes I've checked below. 0 Vol. II: Intermediate O Vol. I: Basic (CT residents add sales tax.) I understand that if I'm not completely satisfied, I may return the course materials within three weeks and receive a full refund. Name Apt.#

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_.•

---MYERS'S RUM Brazil Carnaval '96

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presented by Around The World Travel The 15th Annual Brazilian Mardi Gras Ball

at the Hollywood Palladium, _ This year a salute to -

Salguettro •• •I

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Don't miss this night of colors, balloons, glitter, costume parades, non-stop entertainment and dancing.

one of the most famous Samba schools of Brazil MN.

Come celebrate Carnaval, the ultimate in fun, fantasy, dancing and frolic I!!! With the heart of Brazilian music from all over California:

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Find your valentine at Carnaval 96!!

Sole Mar and

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Entre Nos Band

Floor shows with the stunnin dazzling.. g" .

Use your imagination, create your own costume

the heart of Brazil in San Francisco

Simply Samba Made in Brazil Dancers ( Showgirls

3 TRIPS to BRAZIL!!!

Marvel at the samba magic of the electrifying...

IZA!

And the solo act of the man from Ipanerna...

—VIII? I!

Come savor delicious Brazilian cuisine, quench your thirst with exotic

drinks, and feast your eyes on beautiful costumes and painted faces-. Dance the night away with thousands of samba lovers!!!

February 17, 1996

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THE HEART OF CARNAVAL IN LOS ANGELES

NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

3


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It's been an embarrassment of riches. The present issue has so many articles with cover appeal that it was a tough call to decide for the lighter side of music and choose the ie-i0ie's comeback as our main story. At least three_ other subjects covered inside would deserve the honor. One is the SIVAM (Amazon Radar Defense Network) affair which is boiling with intrigue right now. Tapes leaked to the press have

shown that the one-billion-dollar-plus project given to American Raytheon involved under the table deals and plain bribery. The undertaking was important enough to get the personal attention of Bill Clinton. And Brazilian President Fernando Henrique Cardoso now fears for a fallout from the case that would hurt Brazil's growing credibility in the World. Another article with cover potential is Rio's kidnapping wave. They became so frequent and frightening that produced a little miracle: they united left and right, rich and poor,

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CONTENTS

Cover

who went to the streets to take them oack in a movement called Reage Rio (React, Rio). And then we have the other side •of the Real stunner. The new currency has maintained its strength and seems to have wiped out high inflation from Brazil but it also has created the illusion that the country has now a hard currency. People have lost the notion of prices and Brazil has become one of the world's costliest places to live in. Not bad to start the year. R.M.

29 Poetry

Musical return to the 60's

Joao Cabral de Melo Neto's "Vida e Morte Severina"

16 Amazon

35

The surveillance scandal

Profile Yankee Samba School

18 Kidnapping

Cover by Aylan Mello

Any one can be a victim

DEPARTMENTS

21 Economy

Who can live with these prices?

23 Book

Getnlio Vargas's diary

24 Ead Teen's confessions

MAI

gl

T•A TA

L

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6 Rapidinhas 14 Letters 45 Brazilian Notas 46 The Cultural Pulse 47 Por al 49 Classifieds 50 U.S.A. Calendar 52 That's Brazilian

• 37 Travel

Rio Grande do Sul unveiled

40 Opinion

America earns low marks

54 Special

Crisscrossing the Brazils

TIME TO RENEW? Send mail to: P.O. Box 42536 - Los Angeles, CA 90050-053 • Sorry, we don't send reminders. Look at the Ads: (213) 255-8062 - Subscription: (213) 255,4953 label to know when your Editorial: (213) 255-8062 - Information: (800) 354-4953 subscription ends. Fax: (213) 257-3487 - INTERNET: br,azilneNs@aol.com

Publisher and Editor: Rodney Mello / Editorial Assistant: Graciela Castellanos / Entertain ent Editors: Sam & Harriet Robbins / Book Review: Bondo Wyszpolski / Representatives: MIAMI : Nosso Guia (305) 972-3427 -WASHI GTON, DC: Wilson Velloso (Correspondent) (301)585-6549 - BRAZIL: Celso Sawaia (011)885-9288 E-mail: csawaia©br.homeshopping. om.br NEWS from BRAZIL is published monthly by News from Brazil -2039 N. Ave. 52, Los Angeles, A, 90042-1024. Application to mail at secondclass postage rate is pending at Los Angeles, CA. Single copy sold for $2. One year subscripti n for 12 issues is $3 (three dollars) in the U.S., $15 in Canada and Mexico, and $18 (surface mail) in all other countries. Allow 5 to 7 weeks to eceiv.e your first issue. You may quote from or reprint any of thecontents with proper copyright credit. Editorial submissions are welcome. Include SASE self addressed and stamped envelope), if you want your material mailed back. News from Brazi/assumes no responsibility for any clai s made y its advertisers. Bo 42536 - Los Angeles, CA - 90050-0536 POST MASTER: Please, send address changes to News from Brazil 5 NEWS from BRAZIL -JANUARY 1996


Carnaval Contrary to federal guidelines, in a move to prevent AIDS, the Sao Paulo state Health Department decided to distribute close to 4,000 kits containing two syringes and needles, straws, a plastic spatula a little cup and distille water, everything you need to prepare and inject a dose of cocaine. The straws are to encourage people to sniff the powder in the future. The material comes discreetly inside a box for eyeglasses. Drug addicts will be able to get a new kit a week. In Sao Paulo, 32% of the HIV-positive population got the disease from a contaminated needle Caetano for expor With Un Caballero d Fina Estampa, HBO Brazil intends to give world a taste of Bahiano (from Bahia) singer composer Caeta no Velloso. The 90-minute special, the first one to be entirely produced by the Brazilian HBO, was aired on Christmas night to all of Latin America and this month will be presented in the US. Fina Estampa contains the Rio's Metropolitan show of the same name used to promote Velloso's latest CD. Luxury go-betweens To get an authorization to work in Brazil, today, a foreign executive may have to wait for three months before being allowed in the country. Unless naturally he or his company has some 6

Modeling on the Avenue The director of Samba School Beija-Flor de Nilopolis, Milton Cunha, announced and Naomi Campbell, the model-goddess, confirmed: she will be the main attraction of that Escola de Samba during the upcoming Rio's Carnaval. Campbell's fee for the most trivial of tasks is rarely less than $20,000, but the participation at the Beija-Flor Carnaval parade is for love and, naturally, for free. It's curious this sudden Brazilian passion, since the 25-year Naomi, who is also famous for her fits of anger, in 1994, used her purse to attack a Brazilian photographer who insisted on taking her picture at the airport, soon after she arrived. What's she going to wear during the parade, people have been asking. The norm has been very little or less than that. She has confided to an Italian magazine, "I don't wear intimate clothes when it is hot." And Rio is going to be the hottest place on earth. Beija-Flor's Cunha, however, has already thrown some cold water on those more excited, revealing: "Naomi will be dressed as a jelly-fish, on a plot-samba celebrating life on earth." ntrigue

Romario Jr.? "He is still in my belly and he is already kicking more than the father," says Andrea Oliveira, 21, ready to give birth to a new heir for soccer legend Roma rio. At least, that's what she says. Romario himself is not recognizing the paternity of soon-to-be-called Gabriel Felipe and wants distance from Andrea. She was the model who followed the player around the world, even during the 1994 World Cup in the US, and with whom Romario had a steamy romance. Andrea precipitated the separation between Romario and wife Monica Santoro, the mother of his two children. Andrea, who loves a spotlight, swears She isn't bitter: "Romario doesn't want to believe this is his child. If I said the father is Bill Clinton he would believe me. Anyway I can perfectly raise my child without him. I have enough love to be mother and father at the same time."

disposable income. This situation has contributed o the growth in Brasilia of a gang of middlemen who can charge as much as $30,000 for a sole fast visa. The underworld of bribes and under-theble money represents $20 million a month, cording to documents presented to Brazil's inisterio do Trabalho (Labor Department). ere Comes the bull his February, more than 30 experts in bullfighting.including ncluding renowned torero Manolo Sanchez, will be in Sao Paulo for the First Hispanic.. Brazilian Encounter of Tauromachy. The meeting to happen at the xclusive Maksoud Plaza Hotel will be the first step to introduce in Brazil a practice until now better known in Spain: the toreada. owing that it will be an uphill battle to introduce this bloody sport to Brazil. Spain's consul general in Sao Paulo reminded that the country has a Spanish colony which numbers more than one million. "Besides," he added, "all we want is to spread our culture." Tongue tight pired by the French Parliament, which in 1994 approved a law to protect the French idiom against foreign words, mainly the English ones, a Brazilian congressman also wants to preserve the integrity of the Portuguese spoken in Brazil. Mato Grosso senator Julio Campos is propos ing that foreign words be banned from products, NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996


3= In bed with the President snopprng centers. e)tarnr)re, would immediately bt baptized with a more national eentrct conlerciell. And those ,wito insist on calling 'Golden fork a restauran that,shotild be called arfo 011TO will-have a fine until they the name. exit from writer journalist and politician Fernando Moraes, 'Does& t he have g to do? Bike yourse ottiel)eoplom trust Rip's general -pptilationi Not Rio's has ecidedte place bikes e strategic points: e7 spi t? the beach; so' ep.Wcari just Pick ,up and go pedaling' e sponsors are for the initial :iV)icycieS. TO make the &vehiis hopefully steal, (Ii they , including" L. Are being painted' lit colors

ecent study made In ,Paulo revealed that uts are giving' itional names to their ldren again. The ten stpopular names (Ay s,and five for am all from old Laura; Luisa, a e Mariana i. e favorite monikers omen. For "nen arePedro, tlteus, Colo, Lucas °AP. C9mpOse aria nes fiiiaiave lost appeal e goes for he innd hard to

NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1983

Compulsion to write mode him do. itsays... x-President Jose Sarney about his justpublished 284-page novel 0 Don° do Mar (The ea's Master). Sarney who is a member of the Academia Brasileira de Letras considers hi self a writer by a higher calling and a politician by accident. Even before Sarney' s book appeared in prin ,it has stirred a lot of curiosity. 0 Dono do Mar was the result of ten years of researchith Northeastern fishermen and advance word had that it was filled with erotic underton s. The author himself comments, "To compare the woman genitals to a black seagull is not eroticism, just poetic symbolism. Check for yoilir yourself these excerpts: "But up to this date, after so many years, "Mos ate hoje, depois de tantos anos, t ose panties still burned his mind. The aquela calcinha ainda queimava seu b easts, hidden under the white blouse, were pensarnento. Os seios, escondidosna blusa oily a light outline with its hard little tips. branca, eram so urn leve contorno corn as uertide went to bed and lay still. pontinhas duras. She threw the skirt on her face, CristOrio Quertide deitou-se e ficou quieta. Jogou took off the calico panties and there it was a saia no rosto, Cristorio tirou a calcinha de that part comfortably place between the chita e apareceu aquela parte acomodada entre as coxas, como uma gaivota rnorena, thighs, as a brunette seagull, with a fat reast, perched. de peito gordo, pousada. He touched her lightly as he wished to Passou a mao levemente como se oke her feathers and open her wings for quisesse acariciar suas penas e abrir-lhe as er so she could fly loose and free through asas para que ela voasse solta e livre pelo space of desire (...) espaco do desejo (...) He never thought a woman could have Nunca pensara que mulher pudesse ter uch taste and perfume, something that esse sabor e perfume, coisa que nao era so asn't only to possess, but a feeling of possuir, mas urn sentimento de arnplidao. mplitude. His body was tied up to that of Seu corpo estava amarrado ao de Maria das aria das Aguas, the tide rising and he Aguas, a mare batendo e ele desejando que thing this time would never end. She nunca se acabasse esse tempo. Ela lhe pedia sked him to continue and he asked her not que continuasse e ele pedia que nib o parasse o stop spinning like the Earth." de girar como a Terra."

Publicity

400 breasts and buns Not be outdone by a series of recent ads in Brazil which used from the Hollywood's prostitute Divine Brown to First Lady Hillary Clinton showing her underwear to sell lingerie, Lowe Loducca & Partners conceived a campaign in which 200 girls and guys in different states of undressing are shown through six pages ofmagazines. All ofthis to make the point that any body — big and small, fat and thin and all in between —can fit in one of the 18 models of It's jeans.


Erasmo Carlos, Wanderlea and Roberto Carlos

Forward to c past As predictable and as traditional as New Year's celebrations on Rio's beaches, just-released Roberto Carlos's year-end album is doing brisk business. Even in the worst times, the singer never sold less than one million copies, but last year, 1,8 million were sold, the best result in the last ten years. Simply called Roberto Carlos, the latest effort by the singer has everything to surpass that mark. The romantic singer — who started as a rocker in the 60s — and the Jovem Guarda movement he led are having a revival. Normally very reticent, the crooner has been giving interviews, and even has gone on a tour that has him booked almost every night. While the romantic crowd never abandoned him, the younger generation is discovering and loving his work. BRUCE GILMAN

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NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1998


he Jovem Guarda (Young Guard) movement, led by singer Roberto Carlos and composer Erasmo Carlos, ar rived in Brazil in 1965 when bossa nova had largely turned to social and political themes. At that time, a majority of urban youth cared nothing about droughts in the Northeast or peasants without land. They worried about cars, romance, and clothes. The rock 'n' roll of the Jovem Guarda spoke to their concerns. It translated and adapted rock to Brazil's language and culture. Today a barrage of techno-type music has produced a backlash and re-kindled a desire for music from the 60's. A remarkable technology has at the same time made possible the recording, remastering, re-packaging, reissuing, and promotion of music ranging from a posthumous Beatles reunion to the Tantras of Tibetan Monks. 30 Anos de Jovem Guarda is a remastered five disc collection of seventy hits by the kings of the Jovem Guarda. Its strength is that it preserves the original arrangements. Acting as a barometer for this rebound, the collection sold over 250,000 CDs in the first month after its release. These sales and a slew of spectacular live shows by Avon Guarda artists have brought Brazil's first wave of teenage rock music back from the tombs to reconquer today's teenagers. Despite the fact that many performers have come out of retirement, are gray-haired and in their 50's, they are still enjoying an enthusiastic resurgence of interest similar in intensity to that delivered 30 years prior by the parents of their new audience. A good example is the Blues Band Five. The group is made up of former members of the Jovem Guarda band Os Incriveis. Their glory days behind them, the band attempted a Heavy Metal comeback in 1990 that met with little

T

NEW f7orn BRAZIL - JANUARY 1995

success. The group's drummer, Chuchu, believes that their current success is due to the disposition of many young people today who are more inclined to the romanticism and simplicity of the 60's. The group was invited to perform in Sao Paulo at the party which celebrated the release of the collection 30 Anos de Jovem Guarda. Blues Band Five now charges $3,000 to perform at dance parties for the upwardly mobile and are again basking in the rays of success. Riding the same wave, the groups Os Vips, The Fevers, and The Jet Blacks have come back to the active scene full force. Accomplishing a calendar of shows that rival the shows of country darlings Leandro & Leonardo, Os V ips over a two week period performed at Domingueiras (Sunday parties) in Salvador (Bahia state), in Belem (state of Para), and in Sao Paulo's elegant mountain resort city, Campos do Jordao. Wherever they perform, the audience is always comprised completely of dancing teenagers who know all the music by heart, sing along, and ask for autographs from idols who played Domingueirus for their parents 30 years ago.. More and more high school students, fans of Bon Jovi, are going out to dance at clubs where bands like Chuchu's are performing. These teens are throbbing to the rhythms of the 60's. Most have personal preferences for their favorite 60's artists and songs. Seventeen year old purist Flavia Brant Martins who favors originals over the numerous cover versions being recorded today says, "I prefer listening to "0 Calharnbeque (Old Heap) sung by Roberto Carlos rather than "E Proibido Fumar" (No Smoking) by the group Skank." As a matter of fact, there is nothing strange about a pop band like Skank drinking at the fountain of the Jovem Guarda. That style was the predecessor of all Brazilian rock. However, in the times of Roberto and his group, the music

9


for young people lacked the arrogance that later audiences encountered. The music of the Jovem Guarda followed Chuck Berry's formula of softening the message. The inventor of rock 'n' roll wanted to cross over into the white-money-market and triumphed by keeping away from risque lyrics and singing about big cars, romance, and school. razil's rock of the '80's started out this way, but as time went by, bands like Titas and Legiao Urbana became increasingly more sophisticated, empfoyed lyrics full of images, and played with (according to some) an edge of arrogance. The CD Rei (King ), which brings several national rock groups together on one CD to reinterpret the music of Roberto Carlos, gives a very precise idea of that sophistication. Brazilian rockers have, from time to time, successfully recorded cover versions of 60's music. Leo Jaime, for instance, covered "Gatinha Manhosa" (Foxy Lady) in the '80s. The group Patife Band (Rascal Band) covered "Tijolinho" (Little Brick) but employed a punk rhythmic feel. The group Nao Religiao (Not Religion) also converted "Coracao de Papel" (Paper Heart) into a punk tune. Even the group Sr. Banana, from the new harvest of rock bands, chose the successful "Ritmo da Chuva" ( Rhythm of the Rain) for their premier effort. By doing cover versions of former hits, newer bands have attempted not only to reach a larger teenage audience but also to snare a hit of their own with a proven success. 30 Anos de Jovem Guarda, Polygram's recently released five disc compilation of Jovem Guarda artists, commemorates the compositions of Roberto and Erasmo Carlos. The collection celebrates the influence their music has had over the last 30 years and contains hits like: "Festa de Arromba" (Wild Party), "Eu Sou Terrivel" (I'm Impossible), "0 Calhambeque," "E Papo Firme" (The Best There Is), and "Splish Splash." The project was generated by a meeting between the leader of Os Vips, Marcio Antonucci, and Max Pierre, director at Polygram. Antonucci has 210 Jovem Guarda hits cataloged on his computer, and Max Pierre's personal record library exceeds 7800 LPs. After generating the five discs, they say that there is still enough material left for two similar compilations. Consultants from the program Globo Reporter have guaranteed the success of the project. The repertoire also includes many heart throbbers like "Nossa Cancao" (Our Song), ."Eu Dana a Minha Vida" (I Would Give My Life), "Eu Sou Terrivel," "Parei na Contramao" (I've Stopped in the Wrong Way), and "Vem Quente Que Eu Estou Fervendo" (Come Hot Because I'm Boiling). Some of the sessions on the collection came out better than the originals. Such was the case with "Filme Triste" (Sad Movie) performed by Trio Esperanca whose singing is much more in tune than the singing on the original. Also coming out better than the original and involving all of the project's artists is the Jovem Guarda's anthem "Quero Que

B

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NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996


Look at what wild party I ended esent p another day inu the local iviv were radio and n There television Movie, all papers Many people, mess couldn't g t in I almost co too b Bteacause the crowd Eh, e Wha Party

was

I notic As soon onnie Car holding a glas Prini Lorez pl st esenting Meire Peva° to veryone Wanderlea laug Cleide gave up Getting a cookie Which didn't get off the plate Eh, eh What a' gas, what a wild party Renato and his Blue Cap s Played in the swimming pool The Clevers in the porch Jet Blacks in the dance fiat>r, The Bels with their long hair Couldn't play Before Rosemery Would stop dancing See who suddenly arrived Roberto Carlos with his new gas gtiz7ler While Tony and Demetrius Smoked in the garden Sergio and Ze Ricardo Did trip over me Outside there was ara h tt From the place's little It was Ed Wilson Who bad just arrived Eli, eh What a gas, Party In the morning, whe already leaving, titer people still arriving: Jordans„ Golden Boys, Trio Esperanca, Rossini Pinta, whew, even Sintonal,-Jor Ben and my friend lair Rodrigues NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

VA Tudo pro Inferno' (I Want All the Rest to Go to Hell). The tune had been a re ly to the more nationalistic critics and musicians who didn' accept any pop mixture that defiled the "purity" of Bragilian music. Although the rep rtoire is huge and will appeal to almost everyone, some sing rs were necessarily left out. Roberto Carlos had been invited to sarticipate, but due to contractual restrictions with Sony coul not be included. Ed Carnes, who in 1966 had a hit with "Esto Feliz" (I am Happy) which sold 160.000 records, said that he was sorry he hadn't been included. Now, a restauran operator in Sao Paulo, he longs to leave the restaurant, return to he artistic life, and take advantage of the current resurgence o interest in music of the Jovem Guarda. The discovery o the Jovem Guarda by the new generation has lead record com anies to develop specific marketing strategies. A large shop iing center in Sao Paulo promoted a retrospective exhibit of t e Jovem Guarda that displayed newspaper clippings, rare recor s, a Gordini automobile (a car of the time), and ornaments of c °thing from the outfits of Jovem Guarda artists. Record store in the area were amazed with the tremendous sales the exhibi generated, mostly to young people from 16 to 22 years old who yearn to bring back the Jovem Guarda. These young peo • le are curious to know why Roberto Carlos is a phenomenon that has endured for so many years. The way o Rei (the King i.e., oberto Carlos) has continued pleasing so many people from •iversified walks of life at different times is still inexplicable. aybe why he is still a hit has to do with his charm or his charisma. • n the other hand, the longevity of the Jovem Guarda is easier o Understand. It was the first movement in Brazitia music that was directed toward youth, and it is still that way a ter thirty years. The Jovem Guarda apparently has not aged 'th time. It was just on ice, frozen in time. The music hasn't aged, just its original audience. For those who remember that time the Jovem Guarda talk resurrection of the Jovem Guarda is like a high school Avid° - (literally: plane) big American reunion. For those who are car arriving now, it is like watchBarra limpa- (clean edge) cool person ing a classic film. Bandideto - (big bandit) nice guy While there is a rebirth of Barra pesada - (heavy edge) troubleBrazil's interest in the music maker of the Jovem Guarda, the King Bicao - (big beak) gate-crasher is planning to take on the Bidu - bigwig world. Roberto Carlos has Bo/ha - (bubble) moron launched a project to become Brasa - (ember) great. an international star. The cover Chato - (castle) house of the thirty-eighth recording Estarporfora- (to be in the outside) to by Roberto Carlos shows a not know picture of the singer bathed in Fogueira - (bonfire) something very blue light, with small details good in white. Gala - (pussy cat) pretty girl The back of the cover Mil genies- (thousand peoples) a crowd shows Roberto in blue jeans Mora - (lives) dig it and wearing a Jean jacket. At Papo firme - (firm gizzard) wortha press conference held to while launch the new album he also Papofitrado- (punctured gizzard) idle wore blue jeans and a blue talk, lie Jean jacket. His blue imprint has on this occasion been extended not only to the new disc' s cover graphics but also to the disc itself. The thousands of fans who expect Roberto to be faithful and without change will not be disappointed. Only for Roberto (o 11


Rei) is the absence anything new, and are the same repetitious arrangements not a sin. This is exactly what stirs his enormous following. It is from this simplicity that the King makes his biggest conquests. He knows romantic ballads strike a chord with his fans and that the Brazilian Christian feeling always comes to the fore with sacred pop songs, such as "Jesus Salvador." In his latest album, the religious tune is "Quando eu Quero Falar corn Deus" (When I Want to Talk to God). oberto also never forgets the common people, the working classes who are the base of his uccess. He paid respect to truck drivers with "Caminhoneiro" on a 1984 release, and more recently, with "0 Taxista," paid homage to taxi drivers. With his constant partner Erasmo Carlos, he has found beauty and contributed to boost the self-esteem of fat and then little women. Now, in "0 Charme de Seus Oculos" (The Charm of Your Glasses), he sings a rock tribute to women wearing eyeglasses. Roberto has also inaugurated his own record label, Amigo Records. His contract renewal with Sony Music is a five record/ disc deal plus two additional discs in Spanish and the opportunity to sing in Japanese. This contract ended the 20 million dollar tugof-war between Sony and Polygram. A top executive at Polygram frustrated with his defeat in the negotiations commented, "At least we inflated the offer Sony had to make." Roberto Carlos, as usual very diplomatic and not very talkative with questions of numbers, gave a conventional explanation, "We decided on a different contract with a joint venture." Cover Illustration 1 -, The King's choice was apparently well worth the time spent in discussions over the recent agreement. Sony Music wants to transform him into a star of world stature (Sony currently distributes Roberto's discs only in Brazil). For this endeavor, the most ambitious of his career, Roberto will be teamed with Argentine producer Beba Silvetti, the man responsible for the mammoth success of Mexican singer Luis Miguel. Together they will record in Spanish with the objective of tapping the immense Spanish language market. Roberto's thirty-three year old manager, Dody Sirena, estimates that the record will sell three million copies, five times more than he currently sells in Spanish language countries. "We are going to be aggressive," says Sirena. "If we need to have Elton John on the

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recording to promote it, we will. It is not going to be a record of songs by Roberto like previous ones. It will include tangos and boleros." Roberto's vision for growth includes tours in Europe and the Orient. To attract potential buyers on the other side of the world, Roberto will be prepared to sing in Japanese. "It will be the great turning point for Roberto. He will be concentrating more than ever on markets outside Brazil," affirms Sirena. At 53 years old, Roberto appears to have the vitality to meet this challenge. By July his tour, which started in March of 1995, will have made 200 performances in Brazil and abroad. Roberto's wavering over the contract, according to his manager, was due to his indecision over the two possible courses for the direction of his career that were being offered by each company. One option paid well but would have transformed him into the Latin Frank Sinatra, stagnant and performing sporadically. The other would lead to the challenge of new markets outside Brazil. Roberto Carlos preferred the road, but at 300 miles an hour. Brazilian rockers recognize the obvious, that Roberto Carlos from the Jovem Guarda was the singer that brought Brazil into the panorama of young peoples' music internationally. However, for three decades they twisted their noses at the idol of Romantic music. They would say that they were promoting the modernization of Brazilian music. The CD Rei brings these same rockers together to perform the music of Roberto Carlos. The CD is a deserved homage to Brazilian rock, :0 the one who is in truth its patriarch and innovator. Comparing the old and the new it is not hard to guess who is going last. It's doubtful that 30 years from now anyone will be recording cover versions of most of these groups' work. Despite his humble beginnings Roberto was the NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996


uerem acaba coring() Roberto and Erasnio Carlos porque 281‘ Ttl arO CS° e:411ig° aCeti Ill N _ Ieint ereeni a bnqUanto Nine.ue Cu LiVer voce, qui M Pnclera ri estruir Q isus(e)reeninnaacabar coMeigdo il d:mixearolhassim rylsoiln -*age° fic°aas mini N Maeo'avbr ce . Pnis eu tive voca enquant0 coin: r Sou nlais ...*. E Para • forte • na0 ha e rig° Voc,„ esti aqui 6....6 E cu estou ,aeOlin - temo ti nb Corn voce etam ng°611 v i ) ,que_oe r t , ET:h9oinraifcad,, cle eti venho uce sabe bent de E no c ito amor -gr sO o Tie,* llteressa ...6-"°•••1' • ' e_mpre aquI Pols a lierdade essa•

_ They want to finish me don't know why While I have you here obody will be able to destroy me. `Tbey-Avant to finish me ThisIn E tnot going to allow ace me in this way Look at me in this way Don't: stay far from me Because while Ibave you with me I am stronger And for rue there will be no danger You are here, An And I am here too h you I am not a- fraid of anybody. You know very well Where I'm coming from In my heart what I have I have a lot of love And this is what counts always here because that is truth NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1998

first Brazilian artist to h ye his career promoted and represented by an agent. He wrote "Broto do Jacare" (Young Girl from Jacare) in 1964. Follow ng Chuck Berry's lead, cars and women were seldom forgotten n his music. The woman was occasionally the girlfriend of a ifriend, and everyone knew the situation had to remain platonic.1 An artist today with the same product and unpretentious imag would be laughed at by record companies. This is one reason that the groups who perform on Rei are not above paying tribu e to The King. The tracks on the di c Rei which are the best are the ones that preserve Roberto's original style. The performers who tried to rephrase and restate Roberto's music, those whose music is generally more sophist ated, missed the target. These tracks are foreign to Roberto's im ge, his working blueprint. Thus the best tracks are the ones perfi rmed by Paulo Miklos, Ballo Vermelho, and Blitz. Paulo Miklo from Titas gave a new vitality to "Sua Estupidez" (Your Stu s idity). The same tune also has a memorable interpretation b Gal Costa. Barao Vermelho (the R&B group that Cazuza pl yed with before going solo) handled , "Quando" (When) in t eir typical first-rate manner. litz (the group created by underground theater ac or Evandro Mesquita and the first rock gri up to play at Rio's most important concert hall Canecao) dec ded on music that had been successfully sung by Erasmo, "Se.n ado a Beira do Caminho" (Sitting at the Edge of the Road). The version contai s some embellishments that were not on the original; neverth less, the tune works nicely. The band Vexame (Shame) decided they would better the King and tried to make a mockery o Him with "Cavalgada" (Rodeo), but the . effort failed. Carlinhos Brown a d Chico Science created interesting versions that border on ex • erimentalism, but reflect more their own styles rather- than the easily assimilated pop characterized by Roberto. Marina, taken by the style of Sade, recorded a too cool version of"Por Isso C rro Demais" (Because of That I Run Too Much) that interwea es a Sade-type treatment but lacks the emotional feeling that he lyrics convey. The CD Rei required an investment of $70,00 I and another $100,000 in promotion. "We intend to sell 250,001 copies in one year," says Jose Eboli, director of marketing It has been one y ar since the directors of Sony Music in Brazil got together to valuate the popularity of Roberto Carlos. It was realized at that ime that of Roberto's one million faithful buyers, 70%,are over thirty-five years old. From these findi gs Sony decided to launch the new program to rejuvenate t e work of Roberto. The intention was to rescue his music from the 60's and bring it to the ears of the 90's. Before promoting th CD Rei, Sony sent early clips of Roberto remixed with a funk roove to MTV. These clips caus d the entire Roberto catalog to jump in monthly sales from ,000 to 70,000. Barring the antics and politics of promoting the Roberto of the Jovem Guarda on CD, the decision should b applauded for the way that it has replaced to his rightful throne the creator and best composer of Brazil's first wave of rock.

g

ruce Gilman plays cuica for samba school Mocidade Independente Los Angeles, has a masters egree from California Institute of the Arts, and teaches English and ESL in Long Beach, California. 13


SPREADING BRAZIL

pensive mail subscription available also. Do many people think your Web address URL has a typographical error because of the double z? I will mail my $3 today and maybe add some gift subscriptions for friends.

It is nice to know that there are people (outside of Brazil) working to divulge the Brazilian culture in the US and in other countries. I can't wait to receive my first issue.

Joana Valenca Nashville, Tennessee

Alan Alan Apurim Houston, Texas

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I was very happy about the article -Catch-up Time- published in the December issue. There wee some cool Internet addresses. I passed this information to my Brazilian professor who teaches Information System classes at the Golden Gate University and we are looking forward to surf the Net. Thank you. I would like to add that I agree with reader Katie Orr. I simply don't like small print on a black background. I can't read. Merry Christmas and keep up the good work.

I am from Recife, Pernambuco (Brazil) and I am living in Eugene, Oregon (USA) temporarily. I was very glad to find out, just recently, about your magazine on the Internet. This is a fast and easy way to be informed about my country. Thank you! I also was surprised about the fact that readers can write too. It's a great idea. But, how does it work? I mean, can we write about anything that has to do with Brazil? I hope to find the answers on the December issue.

Best wishes for a wonderful holiday season. Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Thank you for all your wonderful issues during this year and wishing all the best for 1996.

Octavia Moy San Francisco, California SCARY THOUGHT Yes, I read about the "impressive" knowledge the CIA has of Brazil (Rapidinhas — December 95). Capital: Rio de Janeiro, pictures of Buenos Aires. Yeah well, the way I see it, it could be a lot worse. Just imagine, all you out there who love Brazil, if one day you found out they were familiar with terms like "orixa", Zumbi. Isn't that thought frightening? Please print my address. I'd love to hear from others who feel about Brazil as I do.

Kirsten Weinoldt 204 Laurel St; W. Boylston, MA 01583 ONE MORE YEAR I've been enjoying your great magazine for three years now and would like to subscribe to my fourth year. I'd like to see a chat-room like part where we could communicate with other Brazilians through your magazine. In your November issue there is a letter about questions that are not answered and there are times when I would like to communicate with some of the people who write to you and I can't since there aren't any addresses to write to. Keep up your wonderful job and do not raise your price. Although people think it's cheap, it's because of the price that a lot of us subscribe.

Maria Merces Schmidt Phillips, Nebraska ONLY THE BEST I love your magazine. You are the best source of information about contemporary life in Brazil, perhaps better than anything in Brazil as well. Your articles about racism and Afro-Brazilians have been particularly appreciated. Keep up the good work.

Becky Holt Seattle WA You are invited to participate in this dialogue. Write to: Letters to the Publisher P.O.Box 42536 Los Angeles, CA 90050-0536 or send E-mail to: brazilnews(itaol.com Please, include a phone number in the event we need to reach you. Thanks!

Fribio B. Miranda Long Island City, New York VIVE LA DIFFERENCE Sua revista e bem diferente dos pasquins brasileiros que recebo em restaurantes brasileiros. Acho que o caminho 6 este e espero que voces possam conseguir crescer e adicionar cada vez mais artigos de interesse daqueles, brasileiros ou nao, que tenham um motivo para saber das noticias do Brasil. Por isto estou enviando pagamento da assinatura, que e excessivamente barata. Parabens e contem comigo, se precisarem, quem sabe, de informacOes para a revista.

Bernardo Jurema University of Oregon ALL, BUT MY MAGAZINE Please, make the change of address as soon as possible so I can receive my magazine at my new place. I missed last month's issue and I cannot survive without it.

Roberta Heier Alameda, California

Franklin Franca-Pereira Torrance, California

HOW DO YOU WRITE THIS? Thank you very much for the excellent August 95 issue. lam especially grateful for Wilson Velloso's Idiom Idiots. There was a "reform" right after I left Brazil in '73.1 lost count of those "reforms" our language has gone through which so often makes me question my ability to write in my mother tongue. Thank you very much for such a down to earth and entertaining publication. Keep up the good work.

Marina Archibald Vacaville, California BE OUR GUEST lam excited to discover the existence of this publication, from links explored from my own Web page, which has many Brazilian links. With your permission, I will advertise the link to it as follows: http:// www.earth link.net/brazzi 1 - A monthly online magazine about Brazil. Very inex-

25¢ A COPY

NOTHING IS MISSING Li a "short story- o Casarao Amarelo e gostei muito da histOria, mas na sua homepage s6 ha uma parte. Como é que isso funciona? Eu tenho que comprar o artigo?

Leandro Duarte On the Internet WE WILL SIZE IT UP Gostaria de mais informacOes a respeito de como fazer para submeter urn artigo para publicacao em sua revista. No homepage da Web esta escrito que a extensao das materias varia de 800 a 4,000 palavras "depending on the subject." Qual seria o tamanho maximo para urn artigo sobre politica no Brasil? Aproveito para dizer que achei sua revista super-excelente.

Mariano Magalhaes Univ. of Iowa - Iowa City, Iowa

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Jungle bungle Police wire-tap tapes suggested that bribery was used to hasten Brazilian Senate ratification of a radar surveillance system for the Amazon. The affair became the first scandal of Fernando Henrique Cardoso's presidency. Despite the President's opposition a Senate committee called for scrapping the contract with US defense firm Raytheon. President Bill Clinton had applied personal pressure to win the close to $1.5 billion contract for the US. DIVYA SHUKLA

Deforestation, slash-and-burn farming, illegal mining, drug trafficking and pollution are destroying the planet Earth's lungs —the Amazon. Shared by six countries, the Amazon region is the source of 20% of the world's fresh water and it is also the home to half of the Earth's species. A badly needed surveillance system has been conceived, the SIVAM (Sistema de Vigilancia da Amazonia), but not yet implemented. Also called the Amazon Radar Defense Network, the five year contract, was awarded to an American contractor, Raytheon Co. in May, but current allegations of illegal kick-backs inIllivolving Brazilian politicians has not only postponed the realization of this project, but has also cost Brazil, so far, penalty fines worth $7 million in foregone interest payments. With a planned cost of $1.4 billion, the SIVAM project will utilize state-of-the-art technology that will employ radar, satellites and sensors that will cover a span of over 2 million square miles. The Ministry of Space and Technology will oversee the implementation of the project with the aid of three supervision

centers, C‘Vs. The CRVs are located in Manaus, Belem and•Porto Velho. The SISAM, which should be functioning by the year 2000, ivill'employ two million persons due to the immensitypf the Amazon region. In Brazil, nine states comprise the legal boundaries of the Amazon region. These states are: Acre, Amapa, Amazonas, Para, Rondonia, Roraima, Tocantins, Maranhao and Mato Grosso. I The BrErzilian senate is currently conducting hearings to review recorded conversations between the major partiis involved in this case. During the first week of November, newsmagazine 1st° E published transcripts pf a conversation between newly nominated Ambilssador to Mexico, Julio Cesar Gomes dos Santos, andihis friend and Brazilian representative to Raytheon, Jose Afonso Assumpcao. The tratiscript details conversation regarding the SIVAM prOect, specifically the frustration that Assumpcao,felt with Senator Gilberto Miranda who had been sthlling the implementation of the project. The Ambasrador's response, as published is Isto E, is "Why? Yot4ave already paid him off'. This is t1e first scandal of the Cardoso administration. Upon eceiving knowledge of the /sr° t newsbreaking stoky, President Fernando Henrique Cardoso arranged for an emergency meeting to be held at the Palacio do fflanalto (the Brazilian White House). Cardoso ieceived a transcript of the recorded conversation, that happened between September and October, by a division of the Federal Police. The Federal Police had obtained permission from an unnamed judge to conduct the telephone call recordings. The reasons for the initial suspicions that led to the telephone bugging weren't released. The Cabinet's emergency meeting, held on November 17th, involved the following officials: President CardosO, Minister of Foreign Relations Luiz Felipe Lampreia, Minister of Justice Nelson Jobim, Speaker of the House Sergio Amaral and Press •Secretary Ana Tavares. Shortly after the magazine article and the emergency cabinet hearings, Julio Cesar Gomes dos Santos resigned his post of Presidential Aide, but he retained the appointment as Ambassador to Mexico. However, the final approval for all foreign service posts needs to be granted by the Senate. This is Brazilian soap-opera-style politics at its

16 NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996


from November,to the end of December. The military, best. Ministers, Senators and representatives are previhowever, were showing discontent with these maneuous friends and now foes. vers that could mean a postponement of the project for Minister of Space and Technology Mauro Gandra at least one year. and Raytheon's Brazilian representative, Jose Afonso The concept of a surveillance system to monitor the Assumpcdo, have kept a friendship for the past 10 Amazon started three decades ago. In 1972, the Brazilyears. During a three-day stay at Assumpcdo's house ian government created a private agency, Engenharia in Belo Horizonte, Minister Gandra admitted to disde Sistemas die Controle e Automacao S.A. (Esca), to cussing SIVAM. receive technOlogical information from its French partSenator Gilberto Miranda, who had initially voiced ner, the Thompson Company. Esca and Thompson opposition to the SIVAM project, is a special guest at intended to create the System Dacta whose aim would the hearings. Senator Miranda gained knowledge rebe to control forest fires and drug trafgarding surveillance systems ficking. from his tour to Russia and Unfortunately, the idea never mateUcrania and his visit to Rayrialized mainly due to Esca's financial theon's headquarters. WHAT IS SIVAM? difficulties such as its $1 million tax Miranda has kept his priliability. Only during the hamar Franco vate plane and helicopter in • Aerial Traffic Control: capable of administration there was a revival of Lider's hangar for the past four monitoring all flights over the Amathis idea fueled by interest from other years, but is now concerned zon region. The radars presently inworld powers. And Raytheon was one that something might happen stalled in the region are only capable of the first companies to meet with Esca to his planes. Senator Miranof monitoring zones next to major airto discuss a SIVAM-like project. da's publicly voiced concerns ports. An ex-executive of Esca told /sto prompted Assumpcdo, Presi• Surface Area Monitor: will help that when Raytheon first approached dent of Lider, to request for a map the region that is rich in minerals Esca, he was certain that the Brazilian letter from Miranda saying that and consequently patrol the area for government would grant the French if anything happened to the illegal mining activities. partner Thomson the project especially planes Lider couldn't be • Traffic Control: 18 permanent after Thompson had provided Brazil blamed. Miranda said that he radar units will aid aerial traffic conwith some technological improvements. will first wait for the SIVAM trol and clandestine operations and 6 Neither Esca nor Thompson were ordeal to be resolved and then transportable radar units will be availchosen as the contractors for the SIVAM write the disclaimer. able to be installed in areas in need of project. Raytheon was granted the Appointed Ambassador to additional surveillance. Routine checks project on December 1994. Esca was Mexico, Gomes dos Santos, will be provided by five planes which originally chosen and then later distraveled to Miami during the will exclusively patrol the area. qualified by Minister Gandra. There last week of September. From • Weather Station: weather radar was fierce competition provided by Miami he boarded the Learjet system and automated weather station both, the Americans and the French. PT-JAA which belongs to will serve as important source of meThe United States sent Commerce SecRaytheon representative Asteorological data such as rainfall and retary Ron Brown and Vice President sumpcao. Assumpcao and changes in the water level of rivers. Al Gore to discuss SIVAM. Santos traveled to Las Vegas to Three turbo prop-planes equipped with The American visitors alluded that attend an Aviation Convention radars and two hundred collection cenif Raytheon won the nomination, the and then to New York to visit ters will collect data to be used in US would purchase $4 billion worth of the Ambassador's daughter. forecasting and climate studies. The fighter planes used in training from the This plane ride and the wine planes will be equipped with state-ofBrazilian aviation company Embraer. that was served aboard were the-art infrared and optic sensors that The French didn't make any tempting key issues to be discussed. will capture meteorological images. offers, but they did send their ComAs a public official Santos • Environmental Monitor: monitor merce Minister Gerard Longuet on a is aware that he can't accept brush fires, river pollution and general visit to Brazil to discuss the project. this sort of benefits. He claims pollution levels. The Raytheon company did offer that he was on vacation and not • Planning Center: serve as a centhe best financing agreement. The US on official business, therefore tralized communication center to colExport-Import Bank agreed to lend 85% these rules don't apply. Santos lect, analyze and disburse information of the funds with Raytheon and its subsaid that he did "hitchhike" on to various government agencies such contractors financing the rest. the plane ride, but that he paid as the Agency for Agriculture and Raytheon's incentive is that it might all of the other bills with his Environment, the Amazon Region build similar surveillance projects for own credit cards. The receipts Ministry, the federal police, the miliother countries. were turned in along with his tary, the National and Indian FoundaAn unnamed government official letter of resignation. tion and state and local governments. told /sto E magazine that the offers by The fate of SIVAM impleThompson and Raytheon were similar mentation awaits clarification in technical and financial manners but the government of this issue through current Senate hearings. At the seemed tol an towards the Americans. Several months close of this issue there were indications that the later, Com erce Sub Secretary Jeffrey Garten told The contract with Raytheon would die of natural death on New York times that the White House pressured Brazil December 25. The document had been signed continto choose 4aytheon. gent on Senate approval and had its deadline extended NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

17


idnapping for ransom in Brazil is big business. In a ountry that is no longer surprised by most types of criminality, the recent kidnappings for ransom of three young students from wealthy Carioca (from Rio) families, definitely caused social shockwaves. It made rich and poor, right and left join hands and go to the streets of Rio to take part on Reage Rio (React, Rio) at the end of November. The manifestation reunited tens of thou- 1 sands of Cariocas. They were 150,000 according to the march's organizers, and 60,000 according to the police. Within less than a 12-hour period, on October 25, 1995, Eduardo Eugenio Gouvea Vieira Filho, Marcos Fernando Chiesa and Carolina Dias Leite, sons and daughter of the rich and famous, were all kidnapped in various areas of Rio de Janeiro. The operations were done in broad daylight, in the presence of well-paid bodyguards, by heavily armed hoodlums operating in a synchronized militarystyle maneuvers. In fact, one victim was whisked away barely 100 yards from a police station, and another was taken from the doors of an exclusive private school. The political impact of those three kidnappings was felt almost immediately. Rio governor Marcelo Alencar summoned several high-ranking officials for an emergency meeting, amongst them Civil Police chief Hello Luz, and Paulo Roberto Maiato, the recently appointed head ofthe Divisao Anti-Seqiiestros or anti-kidnapping unit. Further complicating matters are the long-standing allegations that many of the kidnappers who are caught, are later subjected to a practice called mineira, which is extorting the proceeds of the kidnappings from the kidnappers themselves. "Most of those kidnappings would not be taking place if it weren't for the practice of mineira," says Police Chief Helio Luz. The practice originated in the state of Minas Gerais, when

REAGE VAS PE,A PA/

Ransom country

18

Kidnapping used to be something rare in Brazil. In 1980, for example, there was a single such episode. But since 1990, the number of abductions has been growing so much that is a rare day in which someone is not kidnapped. In 1990 there were 91 kidnappings. By 1994 this number had grown to 141. And you don't have to be rich anymore to be a victim. CARLOS RAVELO

fazendeiros (cattle owners) contracted off-duty police officers to eliminate cattle rustlers or squatters. The use of mineira has thus also contaminated some sectors ofthe police corps in Rio as well. Even many of those honest police officers who do not themselves practice the mineira, find vicarious justification for this practice by their colleagues. Says one high-ranking official of Rio's police: "Placing a police officer who barely earns $300 a month together with a hoodlum who can bribe him with $30,000, is like placing corn with a rooster." (Or, as is commonly said in English, like putting the fox in charge of the chicken coop.) Further complicating the matter is the fact that this type of crime under color of law is very difficult to prove. Reason? Most of the victims are themselves engaged in illegal activities as well; from kidnapping, to drug trafficking to carjackings and robbery. Surely, once they are hit for cash, it is very improbable that they will file a complaint against whichever officer extorted him, much less so if they know who they are. ' Part of the problem relating to the streak of Carioca kidnappings has to do with the concern held by government authorities that it might scare off new investments in the state, particularly now that the local and national economy has begun to take off, after years of stagnation and hyper-inflation. One case in particular — that of Eduardo Eugenio Gouvea Vieira, had extremely negative connotations. Eduardo is the son of Eduardo Gouvea, president of Federacao das Ind6strias do Rio de Janeiro (FIRJAN), a federation of Rio's industrial complex. The kidnapping put the federation's investment program advertising on hold. The program intended to attract investments of up to $22 billion into Rio state. Projections indicate that close to 400,000 new jobs could be generated by this plan by the year 2000, helping to bolster the local economy. Many in Rio have been fearing — including Gouvea himself — that the recent upsurge in kidnappings and the wide exposure that it has received in local and foreign news media, will hinder the Federation's efforts to promote the city and state as a safe place NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996


to live and invest in. According to Carioca sociologist Rubens Cezar Fernandes, who coordinates the Movimento Viva Rio, which is carrying out a campaign against criminality and violence in the Cidade Maravilhosa, the kidnappings will continue for some time to come.

Different strokes — Although the majority of the kidnappings that have taken place until now have been leveled against the socalled heavyweight families of executives and industrialists, many middleclass families and small or mid-level businessmen have also been the targets of the kidnappers. In fact, aside from outright kidnappings, there are also extortion schemes geared towards scaring the wouldbe victims into paying up a smaller amount, as to not be actually kidnapped, sort of a protection bond. Many are simply called by phone and forced to payup, or else. The sums: between $30,000 to $40,000 on average. In the case of Carolina Dias Leite, the quick reaction of an anonymous caller, and the availability of Disque-Denimcia (Inform-a-Call), a new number for placing information on crimes witnessed or suspected, saved the day. The availability of that number has helped police investigations immensely. A caller contacted the Regimento de Policia Montada (Mounted Police) and Carolina was located soon after by the Police. In Carolina's case, the result was a happy ending, but not all endings are happy. Daniel Ferreira Barata, son of a well-known industrialist was found dead, buried in a shallow grave. Barata had been kidnapped at his work site in front of more than 20 employees. A band of eight well-armed bandits forced their way into the company, asked who he was, and NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

At least for some people t Wave of kidnappings has been blessing and this type of crime hes had a positive effect on smc sectors of Rio's econotny. Securi general, for example, and sec related to equipment hai expe naented a phenomenal growt bodyguards, weapons Sales,. sel defense classes, all are part of security-orientedinental pattern tha many of the wealthy people are now., cultivating. z _ - According to Carlos Cure, pr dent of Rio' Security Tramp° tion Industries, the total for security related services in 1995 we _ superior to $1.8 billion. Many o the services that are provided toad sector tif the economy are mile,. out by retired or pensioned pat officers, as,well aspaanywho moonlight on a second job. ereere more than 110 legal established_ settirhy firms in Rio plus another 4.00 or so informal ones Which do not comply with establishT guidelines or have a permit to operate. Other related areas that have mushroomed have been the insur: mice against dppings bulletproof-mg of vehicles, and personal defense classes. A self-defense tech _ nique called "Kray-Maga" whic, _ has been, used extensively by the israeli armed forces since the earl 60s, isheing taught to Rio's elite b an expert called Kobi. Says Mr. Kobit Most of students are executives, -attorneys or doctors. Most of them only go from home to well and hack; hower, even then they wish to know ow to react in any so'n of situation." Some of the kidnapping vieims are held for months-on-end Until their relatives or companies . can raise the money for their release. The list grows: Dm. id Koogan June,Jos-e Zeno in July, Nelson' erezin August, Maria Albergonez ,lin September, eight in October, in!eluding the three on the 25th; ands

19


indicated that all would be shot if he did not come forward and identify himself. He did, for the sake of his employees. Ransom negotiations started almost immediately, but the kidnappers fumbled for 13 days, because the family kept requesting evidence of him being alive. On December 30, 1994, the kidnappers made their final call. At the same time, the police received information that bad odors were coming from an abandoned house in Sdo Goncalo, in the Greater Rio. Neighbors confirmed that they had seen a man handcuffed, going into and out of the same house for several days, but did not want to intervene. On the 30th they heard some screams, and a few days later the worse was confirmed. Daniel had his skull crushed in, apparently because the kidnappers panicked and did not want to risk being caught. In Sao Paulo, the kidnapping problem is somewhat less pressing, averaging about 20 per year in the 80's. Nowadays it is down to about 10. Of those, six have been solved by the Policia Militar and the ROTA units, through preventive enforcement which hinders the setting-up of gangs like the ones that nlonopolize those activities in Rio, where until October, the number of kidnappings had risen to 30. Although being kidnapped is — in and of its own — a terrible situation to be in, some people have been unfortunate enough to have been kidnapped twice, and in one case, three times. A case at hand is Manuel Alves Lavouras, a 63 year old Portuguese national and businessman. Alves Lavouras has a net worth of over 400 million dollars and owns a transportation company. The first time he was abducted, he was able to convince his captors that he was very ill — he suffers from a cardiac condition — and they let him go. The second time, earlier last year, he paid $300,000 in ransom. Just a few weeks ago, after a third abduction, he was let loose by his captors, but almost died. His physical condition was so deplorable that his sons rented a Medevac jet aircraft to fly him to a cardiac center in Sao Paulo. He barely made it. But even people who are not as wealthy as Alves have been pulled in Such was the case of Edevair de Souza Faria. The name would not have meant anything excepting for the fact that he happens to be the father of Brazil's 20

soccer idol Romario. The same thing happened in 1991 to another soccer great, Bebeto. While training, he was approached by a group of five men who told him that his According to the just-released brother had suffered a traffic acciannual report Direitos Monadent. nos no Brasil (Human Rights Bebeto asked to go to a phone, in Brazil) prepared by Unibut ran towards the stadium secuversity of Sao Paulo (USP) rity guards, and escaped the atCenter of Studies of Violence, tempt. Xuxa, the singer and TV most kidnappers are white presenter, is another one who live and College trained. From the in fear of being kidnapped since 144 kidnappers caught by pothere was a botched attempt to do lice between 1987 to 1992 only just this a few years ago. three were black. There were As bad as things might appear, 87 white and 27 were oriental. the worst years for kidnappings And not only men are responwere 1990 (91); 1991 (93); 1992 sible for the abductions. Al(135); 1993 (136) and 1994 (141). most 14% of these kidnappers It seems that the number increased were women. The study Also as hyper-inflation set in. Many beshowed that 84 abductors were lieve that as soon as Rio'sfavelas born in the South or the Southwere occupied by the military, the east of the Country, being 12 crime spree went into the streets of from the Mid-West and 20 Rio proper. from the Northeast. FOLK HERO — Leonardo Pareja is barely 21 years old. He is also a legend and folk hero to many in Brazil, particularly after his last escapade. What did he do to deserve it? Later last year, Pareja, who was born into a wealthy family, went into a crime spree lasting 39 days, in which he robbed, carjacked, extorted and kidnapped. In the end, he says, he turned himself in just because he got bored of taking the police forces of several states for a ride...in the fullest meaning of the word. Pareja developed a Robin Hood type image, basically taking from the rich, and giving money to the poor. Or so he thinks. His latest run in with the law, which started when he was 16 years old, began with a botched gas station robbery in Salvador (Bahia), which turned into a kidnapping. Taken hostage in the process was 13 year old Fernanda Viana. Bright and extremely vain, Pareja is not your run-of-the-mill kidnapper. He has studied English, Spanish and is a computer expert. Leonardo turned himself in, only after being guaranteed that the press and a judge were present to assure he would not be executed "in an exchange of gunfire" with the police. His wishes were granted. When this happened he had already run through 10 cities in three states, had held two hostages and wounded a police officer and a civilian inside a church. He escaped every attempt to corner and arrest him, and chose his time and place of surrender. •

Portrait of a kidnapper

NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996


Real high When Brazilians kissed inflation goodbye last year they have also entered a dangerous level of high prices that only very slowly is coming down. These days, almost everything is more expensive in Brazil than in any other place on earth. Be it a medical consultation, an electronic gadget, a computer software, a pair of jeans or a dozen bananas. CARLOS EMMANUEL DA FONSECA BARRETO

Empty your wallet It's a hold-up Prices in Rio $730 1 bedroom rent Vacuum cleaner $132 $50 Nylon backpack $24,823 Ford Escort GT. $87 Electric mixer $104 Levi's 501 jeans The simplest stove $320 The simplest washer $499 $447 20" color TV $94 Tennis Reebok Sea food spaghetti $23 $21 Steak and fries Daily rental car $75 Blender $57 Movie ticket $8 Compact disc $25 $1,125 Freezer 2 doors $16,188 Ford Fiesta Plumber per hour $70 $50 Hair cut NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

n July 1994, a new currency was estab lished in Brazil, the fourth monetary unit change in 10 years. The Real received a warm welcome from all Brazilians, and was able to lower inflation from a scary 50% a month to a present 2% monthly level. One and a half years later, an optimistic government expects inflation in 19 6 to reach the maximum yearly rate of 15%. Howe er, the dream of the real becoming a hard curr ncy is far from reality. Today, Brazilians are experiencing a nightmare of outrageous prices for some goods and services: like clothing, food, electronic products, plumber, rent and doctors. Even though inflation has dropped, prices have been unbelievably high. The real introduced Brazil into the developed world with dollar linked prices (right now 0.95 reais = $1). While the country has a $ 3,400 per capita income, however, its prices exceed countries with per capita income above $15,000. The discrepancy in prices, in a land where raw materials are abundant, is easily seen in food. The famous feijoada — a national dish made out ofpork and black beans — at the Rubaiyat restaurant in Sdo Paulo, costs 35 reais, a 150 percent price hike compared to last year's 14 reais. There is no sense of value among the population. Thirty five reais is enough to buy two pigs of 30 lbs each and 10 lbs of black beans. The amount ofgoods _ purchased is enough to make feijoada for 25 people. In another example, in the restaurant Arlecchino in Rio de Janeiro, a salt water fish filet dish costs 22 reais, a 975 percent price increase from the time the fish is caught. Now, the entire fish is sold by any fisherman for about 2 reais to supermarkets and the supermarkets sell them for 13 reais to the people. It is amazing when you consider that in Paris, one of the most prestigious restaurants in Montparnasse, the Coupole, offers the "menu du garcon" — a choice between an appetizer and a main dish or a main dish and a dessert — for 20 reais. Another ridiculous case in point is Rio's sophisticated Italian restaurant Da Brambini which increased the price of its most famous dish — tortellini with mushrooms — by 70%, while eggs and flour, the main ingredients in this dish, had their prices lowered by 30%. The only explanation for such exorbitant prices is the inflationary expectation ingrained in every Brazilian.

T

21


After years of dealing with worthless cents, have to pay more for their culture, products and services in Brazilians got used to throw away their coins. Brazil than outside the country. A Brazilian papaya costs $3.40 Some haven't quite grasped the extraneous idea in Paris, but $3.86 in Rio. An imported Brazilian compact disc that a bus ride cost less than one real and that is in New York costs $12.50 and $25 in Sao Paulo, a Brazilian possible to buy a liter of gasoline with 54 movie in Bonn, Germany, can be seen for $5 and for $8.50 in centavos. Prices for goods and services tend to Recife. While a Brazilian dentist in Lisbon charges $38 for a adjust from real to real rather than just a few filling, his Brazilian colleague in Curitiba, Parana, wants $ 94 centavos at a time. for the same job. During periods of high inflation, Brazilians The same phenomenon occurred in other countries while used to sweep coins under the carpet, throw trying to stabilize their economies, among them Argentina, them on the streets and cast coins into lakes, Chile and Israel. There was a time when Buenos Aires was the fountains and in the ocean praying for better most expensive city in the world to live. Today, any major times to come. This habit of neglecting the use Brazilian city can beat the Argentinean capital. of cents is creating a false idea of a hard curThe end to these price discrepancies will only occur when rency. equilibrium is reached between supply and demand. The conIn any civilized commercial center, the cussumption binge that euphoric Brazilians have embarked on due tomer is very important. In Brazil, many busito the false impression that they now have a hard currency will nessmen ignore this fundamental rule. Some have to decline. Moreover, Brazilians will have to learn how to entrepreneurs still believe that the best is to sell bargain and how to buy only what is necessary. • products for the highest price they can get. This practice of high profits annihilates productivity, efficiency and competition. The inflationary mentality plus a closed market to foreign competitors create the perfect environment for high prices. Brazilian entrepreneurs are afraid of working with low profit margins and gaining according to the concept of economy of scale — a high value return due to high quantity sales. They do not understand that the problem is losing customers. The only way out is to open the economy to foreign products and force competition. i489 LIMA Prices on products can be 633 BUENOI AIREI controlled through imports and MONTEVIDEO 649 other mechanisms, but what to do with services? How can a country import doctors, plumb$866 S ETA% N FROM IA0 PAULO ers, car washers? An electrician in Belo Horizonte charges $571 RIO/IAO PAULO (21 DAYI) 150 reais per hour, a dermatologist in Curitiba asks 250 i666 IALVADOR/BRAJILIA reais per visit and religious services in Rio de Janeiro cost 960 BELO HORIZONTE/RECIFE 666 reais. These services experi666 PORTO ALEGRE enced adjustments of 70, 50 and 91 percent respectively within a year. In Sao Paulo, it costs $39 to wash a car, while the same service in Washington DC goes for $7 and for $8 in Paris. RT OPEN RETURN Marisa Monte, a famous Brazilian singer, in a recent concert in Rio de Janeiro PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE charged $42 for tickets while her concert last year in the House of Blues, in Los Angeles, cost only $20. Brazilians

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NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996


For 12 years, between 1930 and 1942, Get6lio Dornelles Vargas, who led Brazil for 18 years— first as President brought by a military coup and then as an elected President — made notes at the end of the day about the main political events, but also about his personal thoughts and extramarital affairs. There was a suspicion that this diary existed, but not even the president's most intimatefriends knew for sure. Darci Vargas, Getillios's wife, died in 1968 without knowing about it. It was only at the end of the 70s that a very close aide to Vargas gave Alzira do Amaral Peixoto, the president's daughter, the collection of notebooks containing the notes handwritten in pencil. Celina Vargas do Amaral Peixoto, a social scientist who is the granddaughter of Getillio and the daughter of Alzira, was the one who decided to publish the material. It took her and a group of experts at the Fundacao Getulio Vargas (FGV) two and a half years to check names and facts and add notes that shed light on events that happened half a century ago. Just published by the Getiflio Vargas Foundation on a co-edition basis with Sic iliano Publishers, this two-volume book, richly illustrated with photographs and containing over 1,200 pages, is an essential contribution to the understanding of Brazilian history in the 20th century. President of Brazil from 1930 to 1945 and from 1951 to 1954, when he inexplicably took his life, Getillio Vargas is identified with the major political, social and economic changes that took place in the country after 1930. In his diary, written between October 3, 1930 and September 27, 1942, this century's most important and influential Brazilian politician expounds, for the first time, his particular view of a 12-year period in contemporary Brazilian history, which was characterized by significant events, from a revolution to the Second World War, passing through a coup d'etat that he led in 1937. Far from being simply a facsimile of the Getialio Vargas' diary, the book has been designed to provide a clear and coherent focus on the memories of a man who has played a strategic and definitive role in Brazil. The project of publishing a book NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

GetCilio's red book Revolutionary leader, dictator, President, Gethlio Vargas is the greatest Brazilian politician of this century. He lead the country through Civil War and changes that shaped modern Brazil. Now, the world has a chance to know what this charismatic character was thinking while building a country by fire and kind words. HORTENSIA LEMOS

EXCERPT If everyday everybody would write down in a notebook their judgements, thoughts, motives for action and the main occurrences in which they took part, many, to whom a singular fate has prevented from this, would be able to equal the marvelous fantasies described in the adventure books from writers with the most rich imaginative fantasy. Real life apparent prosaism is much more interesting than it seems to be. I was reminded that, if I would make daily faithful and sincere notes, like somebody who would write only for himself and not for the public, I would have then a large repository of facts to probe and a continuous lesson of experience to consult. I was reminded of this today, day of the Revolution. All the arrangements made, all the calls made. It certainly will be today at 5 PM. What the uncertain future will reserve for us in this adventurous undertaking.? I had a quiet lunch with my family and went for a ping-pong match with my wife as I usually do every day. At 4 PM I've finished this note. Four thirty. The time comes. I feel peaceful in spirit, as someone who plays a decisive move because he couldn't find another honorable solution. My fate doesn't matter, but it does the responsibility of an act which decides about the fate of the collectivity. Won't I have a big disappointment afterwards? And if we lose? I will be labeled as the responsible afterwards, for spite, for ambition, who knows? I feel that only life's sacrifice can redeem the mistake of a failure. The movement has started. A live volley of rifleshots and machine guns." (Rio de Janeiro, October 3, 1930)

from manuscripts, consisting of 13 papers, began in 1993 and represented a vast, complex and exciting challenge. During thirty months, the project has been conducted by researchers of the FGV Documentation and Research Centre on Brazilian Contemporary History - CPDOC, who carefully organized the unpublished archival material, private documents and recorded oral testimonies. The result is a vivid narrative of individuals, peoples, parties, movements, events, decisions and conflicts that have shaped the political society over those decades. These volumes are both a reference work and a book to be read for enjoyment, helping to understand the dayby-day functioning of a government, who Getalio Vargas really was, his individual consciousness and public trajectory, and all that has come from his pen. Undoubtedly unique, this book reveals many aspects of this yet under-researched period of Brazilian history, develops a framework for understanding the radical changes which have occurred during those years and offers a new perspective on the diversity of historical situations that have arisen in the Brazilian society. To the diary, the editors have added an appendix of 203 pages, with a comprehensive bibliography, extensive biographic references and a subject index containing several hundred suggestions for further reading. Getfilio Vargas: Diario contributes in a remarkable way to the reconstruction of a period, as a testimony to the power both of ideas and of personality in movements of the past. His unexpurgated account will be welcomed by all those interested in Brazilian history. Orders to: Fundacao Gettilio Vargas/ Editora Praia de Botafogo, 190 - 6. andar 22.253-900, Rio de Janeiro, RJ - Brazil Fax: (021) 551-0948 and 551-7801 E-mail: edt@sede.fgvrj.br Price: US$ 100,00, including airmail postage Payment through check made payable to the order of Fundacao Gettilio Vargas or credit card (please inform number and expiration date). 23


Nobody has been able to explain the explosive success of a teenager's diary that became a play, that became a book, that became a TV series, that's becoming a movie. The nothingspectacular story of an adolescent girl and her girlfriends has become a must see for anyone interested in knowing what's going on in Brazil right now. DIVYA SHUKLA Theater is often aimed at an adult audience. This is not true oft he play Confissoes de Adolescente (Confessions from a Teenager) whose theme and characters involve adolescents and the often misunderstood adolescent years. The play gained wide acceptance by the Brazilian youth and adults alike. Confissoes de Aclolescente is based on Maria Mariana's diaries. The daughter of playwright Domingos Oliveira, Mariana started to document her life at the age of nine and continued to do so until the age of 18. Domingos Oliveira saw potential in his daughter's writing and consequently encouraged Mariana to publish her diaries. Maria Mariana, who is now in her mid-twenties, describes ConfissOes de Adolescente as a guide to the complex world of adolescents; the script allows one to look through the keyhole that opens the door to the lives of teenagers. The book tells the story of four female teenagers, who belong to the 13-16 age group, from the Zona Sul neighborhood of Rio. The characters are Maria Mariana herself, Daniele Valente and their sisters. Confissoes de Aclolescente opened in March of 1992 in Casa da Cultura located in Rio's famous neighborhood of Ipanema. Initially, it cost about $300 (later it went up to $25,000) to produce the play. Since then it has played more than 500 times (watched by more than 200 thousand spectators) and the script has served as the inspiration for a best-seller (with 100 thousand units sold, so far), the first Brazilian audio book and a miniseries broadcast on Sao Paulo's TV Cultura. After its debut in Rio the piece traveled to 50 cities in Brazil. What's the secret of Confissoes de Adolescente's success? Sincerity was the answer supplied by author Mariana to the newspaper 0 Estado de sao Paulo. "It is something that actually happened, it 24

NEWS from BRAZIL-JANUARY 1996


isn't fiction."she added. Mariana's second first time that a Brazilian seand France. The Primeiro Beijo book entitled Cara Me/ode (My Other Half) ries was broadcast in France. (First Kiss) episode, nominated in was released in June. Cara A letade was writSome episodes show the the category Program for Child and ten in conjunction with her husband Galli and characters vacationing in Paris Teen-age Public, ended up losing to the theme is, what else, but marriage. (half of the episodes were two British programs: Channel's 4 Domingos Oliveira believes that Confisfilmed in Rio while the other Wise Up and BBC's Little Lord soes de Adolescente gives its young audience half was shot in Cannes, Fauntleroy. Just the fact that series exactly what they need: the youth returns to France). Eventually the charwas nominated for an award, howsee the play several times as one would to acter Maria Mariana decides ever, was a big thrill to Daniel Filho visit an old friend. Domingo's other projects to study in France and to live and Euclides Marinho, the include Confissoes de Mulheres de Trinta with a French family. A secprogram's producers. (Confessions from Thirty-Year-Old Women), ond series should be produced Confiss5es de Adolescente, the Confissoes de Crianca (Confessions from soon. motion picture, is the next frontier. Children) and Confiss5es de Homem (ConAt the end of last year It should start shooting later this fessions from Men). ConfissOes disputed as a fayear with release scheduled for June. Confissoes changed the lives of at least vorite an International Emmy The film will show the Confissoes's four females from Zona Sul in Rio. Paula Award with TV programs girls during their summer vacation, Leal (age 16), Luiza Fischer (16), Raffaela from England, Japan, Austrawhen "everything can happen", acBongiovanni (14) and Carolina Durao (13) lia, Canada, Sweden, Spain cording to Daniel Filho. have each seen the play more than 50 times. The friends even traveled to Sao Paulo to see it. They are so connected to the play that they have become friends with the actresses. This constant and intimate involvement with •Confissoes led this group to author and star in the play Confiss5es das Fas de Confiss5es (Confessions from the Fans of Confessions). These aren't ordinary fans, each of them identifies with a specific character in the play, so much that in interviews given to the media whenever there are questions regarding a character the one that identifies with the character will answer it. They believe that the play has changed their lives. Luiza said that she doesn't know what she would be doing had she never seen the play, Paula admits that it would probably involve discos and not much else. The play's success inspired a made-for-television series that was broadcast by TV Cultura. The prime-time program was such a hit that it Representing: VASP, VARIG, AMERICAN, soon won the second place LADECO, LAN CHILE, LACSA, for all programs shown at that AEROLINEAS ARGENTINAS, AERO PERU time slot, that on public TV AND UNITED AIRLIN used to very low rating. The 23-episode series will be watched by audiences in Israel, Finland, Greece, France, Portugal and New Zealand. Confiss5es is also in its second year of display in French television. It was the

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28 NEWS from BRAZIL -JANUARY 1996


0 RETIRANTE ENPLICA AO LEITOR QUEM E E A QUE VAI — 0 meu nome é Severino, como nao tenho outro de pia. Como ha muitos Severinos, que é santo de romaria, deram entao de me chamar Severino de Maria; como ha muitos Severinos corn mdes chamadas Maria, fiquei sendo o da Maria do finado Zacarias. Mais isso ainda diz pouco: ha muitos na freguesia, por causa de urn coronel que se chamou Zacarias e que foi o mais antigo senhor desta sesmaria. Como entdo dizer quem falo ora a Vossas Senhorias? Vejamos: é o Severino da Maria do Zacarias, la da serra da Costela, limites da Paraiba. Mas isso ainda diz pouco: se ao menos mais cmco havia corn nome de Severino filhos de tantas Marias mulheres de outros tantos, ja finados, Zacarias, vivendo na mesma serra magra e ossudaem que eu vivia. Somos muitos Severinos iguais ern tudo na vida: na rnesma cabeca grande que a custo é que se equilibra, no mesmo ventre crescido sobre as mesmas pernas finas e iguais tambem porque o sangue, que usamos tern pouca tinta. E se somos Severinos iguais em tudo na vida, morremos de morte igual, mesma morte severina: que é a morte de que se morre de velhice antes dos trinta, de emboscada antes dos vinte de fome urn pouco por dia (de fraqueza e de doenca é que a morte severina ataca em qualquer idade, e ate gente ndo nascida). Somos muitos Severinos iguais em tudo e na sina: a de abrandar estas pedras suando-se muito em cima, a de tentar despertar terra sempre mais extinta, a de querer arrancar alguns rocado da cinza. Mas, para que me conhecam melhor Vossas Senhorias e melhor possam seguir a hist6ria de minha vida, passo a ser o Severino que em vossa presenca emigra. ENCONTRA DOIS HOMENS CARREGANDO UM DEFUNTO NUM A RED_E, AOS GRITOS DE "0 IRMAOS DAS ALMAS! IRMAOS DAS ALMAS! NAO FUI EU QUEM MATEI NAO!" A quern estais carregando, irmaos das almas, embrulhado nessa rede? dizei que eu saiba. A um defunto de nada, irmao das almas, que ha muitas horas viaja NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

Lge Death JOAO CABRAL DE MELO NETO — This hole in which you are, measured in palms, is the smallest share you've got in life — The size is perfect, neither wide nor deep, it's the piece that's yours in this latifundium — It's not a big hole, is a measured hole, it's the land you wanted to see shared — It's a big hole for your little body you'll be more comfortable here than you ever were in the world

h sua morada. E sabeis quern era ele, irmaos das almas, sabeis como ele se chama ou se chamava? Severino Lavrador. irmao das almas, Severino Lavrador, mas já nao lavra. — E de onde que o estais trazendo. irmaos das almas, onde foi que comecou vossa jornada? — Onde a Caatinga é mais seca, irmao das almas, onde uma terra que nao da nem planta brava. — E foi morrida essa morte, irmaos das almas, essa foi morte morrida ou foi matada? — Ate que nao foi morrida, irmao das almas, csta foi morte matada, numa emboscada. — E o que guardava a emboscada, irmao das almas e corn que foi que o mataram, corn faca ou bala? — Este foi morto de bala, irmao das almas, mas garantido é de bala, mais longe vara. —E quem foi que o emboscou, irmaos das almas, quem contra ele soltou essa ave-bala? — Ali é dificil dizer, irmao das almas, sempre ha uma bala voando desocupada. — E o que havia ele feito irmaos das almas, e o que havia ele feito contra a tal passara? — Ter urn hectare de terra, irmao das almas, de pedra e areia lavada que cultivava. — Mas que rocas que ele tinha, irmaos das almas que podia ele plantar na pedra avara? — Nos magros labios de areia, irmao das almas, os intervalos das pedras, plantava palha. — E era grande sua lavoura, irmaos das almas, lavoura de muitas covas, tao cobicada? — Tinha somente dez quadras, irmao das almas, todas nos ombros da serra, nenhuma varzea. — Mas entdo por que o mataram, irmaos das almas, mas entdo por que o mataram corn espingarda? — Queria mais espalhar-se, irmdo das almas, queria voar mais livre essa ave-bala. — E agora o que passara, irmaos das almas, O que é que acontecera contra a espingarda? — Mais campo tern para soltar, irmao das almas, tern mais onde fazer voar as filhas-bala. 29


E onde o levais a enterrar, irmaos das almas, corn a semente do chumbo que tern guardada? Ao cemiterio de Torres, irmao das almas, que hoje se diz Toritama, de madrugada. E poderei ajudar, irmaos das almas? you passar por Toritama, minha estrada. — Bern que poderd ajudar, irmao das almas, é irmao das almas quem ouve nossa chamada. — E um de nos pode voltar, irmao das almas, pode voltar daqui mesmo para sua casa. — Vou eu que a viagem 6 longa, irmaos das almas, é muito longa a viagem e a serra é alta. — Mais sorte tern o defunto irmaos das almas, poisjá nao fard na yolta a caminhada. — Toritama nao cai longe, irmaos das almas, seremos no campo santo de madrugada. — Partamos enquanto é noite irmaos das almas, que é o melhor lencol dos mortos noite fechada. 0 RETIRANTE TEM MEDO DE SE EXTRAVIAR POR SEU GUIA, 0 RIO CAPIBARIBE,

entre essa que escancaradas frente a mim se multiplicam. Mas nAo vejo ahruts aqui, nem almas mortat\netuiv ouco somente a dtâpa o que parece can ri Seri novena de s seri algurn ms-dequem sabe ate se rat. ou uma danca naqrser

sera que quando chegar _o rio da nova invernia urn resto de agua no antigo sobrara nos pocos ainda?) Mas isso depois verei: tempo ha para que decida; - primeiro e precis° achar ' urn trabalho de que viva. Vejo uma mulher na janela, all, qUe se nao e rica,parece remediada • NA CASA A QIEO RETI- ou dona de sua vida: RANTE CHEGA STAID you saber se de trabalho CANTANDO EXCELENCIAS podera me dar noticia. PARA UM bEFUNTO, ENQUANTO UM HOMEM, DO MR10E-SE A MULHER NA LADO DE FORA, VAI PA-- JANELA QUE DEPOIS, DESRODIANDO A PALAVRAS , COBRE TRATAR.-SE DE DOS CANTADORES QUEM SE SABERA

Finado Severino, quando passares on Jordao e o demonios te atalharem perguntando o qua-6 que levas... — Dize que levas bera, capuz e cordao mais a Virgem da Conceicao. — Finado Severino, etc... — Dize que levas somente coisas de nao: fome, sede, privacao. • — Finado Severino, — Dize que coisas de nao, ocas, leves: como o caixao, que ainda deves. Uma excelencia dizendo que a hora C hora. Ajunta os carregadores que o corpo quer ir embora. — Duas excelencias... —...dizendo C a hora da plan-, tacao. — Ajunta os carroclores... —...que a terra vai*olher a mao.

— Antes de sair de casa aprendi a ladainha das vilas que you passar na minha longa descida. CANSADO DA VIAdEM 0 Sei que hd muitas vilas gran- RETIRANTE PENSA INTERdes, ROMPE-LA POR UNS INScidades que elas sao ditas; TANTES E PROCIJRAR TRAsei que hd simples arruados, BALHO AL! ONDE SE ENsei que ha vilas pequeninas, CONTRA. todas formando um rosario cujas contas fossem vilas, — Desde que estou retkando de que a estrada fosse a linha. so a morte vejo ativa, Devo rezar tal rosdrio se a morte.deparei ate o mar onde termina, e is vezes ate festiva; saltando de conta em conta, •s6 a morte tern entontrad passando de vila em vila. quern pensava encoontrar Vejo agora: nao C facil e o pouco que nao foi mo seguir essa ladainha; foi de vida sever* entre uma conta e outra conta, (aquela vida clue 6 menos entre uma e outra ave-maria, vivida que defendida, hd certas paragens brancas, e C ainda mais seVerina de planta-e bicho yazias, para o homem que retira). yams ate de donos. Penso agora: mas por que ,e onde o pe se descaminha. parar aqui eu nao podia Nao desejo emaranhar e como Capibaribe o fib de minha linha interromper minim linha? nem que se enrede no pato ao menos ate que as iguas hirsuto desta caatinga. de uma prOxima invernia Pensei que seguindo o rio me levem direto ao mar eu jamais me perderia: ao refazer sua rotina? ele C o caminho mais certo, Na verdade, por uns tempos, de todos o melhor guia. parar aqui eu bem podia 1Mas como segui-lo agora e retomar a viagem que interrompeu a descida? quando vencesse a fadiga. Vejo que o Capibaribe, Ou sera que aqui cortando como os rios Id de cima, agora minha descida tao pobre que nem sempre ja nao poderei seguir pode cumprir sua sina nunca mais em minha vida? e no verao tambem corta, (seri que a agua destes poeos corn pernas que nao caminham. toda aqui consumida Tenho que saber agora pelas rocas, pelos bichos, qual a yerdadeira via pelo sol com suas iingus

Muito born dia, senhori, que nessa janela esta;' •sabe dizer se C possivg algum trabalho encontrar? ' Trabalho aqui nunca falta •' a quem sabe trabalhar; , o que fazia o compadre na sua terra de la? - Pois fui sempre lavrador, • lavrador de terra ma; nao ha especie de terra qUe eu nao possa cultivar. Isso aqui de nada adianta, pouco waste o que lavrar; mas diga-me, retirante, que mais fazia por la? Tambem la na minha terra - 'de terra mesmo pouco ha; mas ate a calva da pedra sinto-me capaz de arar. — Tambem de pouco adianta, nem pedra ha aqui que amassar; diga-me ainda, compadre, que ma's fazias por Conheco todas as rocas que nesta cha podem dar; o algodao, a mamona, a pita, o milho, o carod. Esses rocados o banco já riao quer financiar; mas diga-me, retirante, o que mais fazia — Melhor do que eu ninguem sei combater, quica, tanta planta de rapina que tenho visto por Essas plums de rapina sio tudo o que a terra di; diga-me arnda, compadre que mais fazia por la? Tirei mandioca de chas que o vento vive a esfolar e de outras escalavras pela seca faca solar. Isto aqui nao C Vitoria nem C Gloria do Goita; •e alem da terra, me diga, que mais sabe trabalhar? Sei tambem tratar de gado, entre urtigas pastorear; gado de corner do chao ou de corner ramas no ar. --- Aqui nao e Surubim nem Limoeiro, oxala! mas diga-me, retirante, que mais fazia por Id? ' —Ern qualquer das cinco tachas de urn bangile sei cozinhar; sei cuidar de uma moenda, de uma casa de purgar. — Corn a vinda das usinas hi poucos engenhos ji; nada mais o retira te aprendeu a fuer 1

—• Ali ninguem aprendeu dutro oficio, ou aprenderi; mas o so!, de sol a sol, bem se aprende a suportar. Mas isso entao seri tudo. em que sabe trabalhar? vamos, diga, retirante, outras coisas saberd. - Deseja mesmo saber o que eu fazia por IV corner quando havia o que e, havendo ou nao, trabalhar. — Essa vida por aqui coisa familiar; mas diga-me retirante,' sabe benditos rezar? sabe cantar excelencias, defuntos encomendar? sabe tirar ladainhas, sabe mortos enterrar? — IA velei muitos defuntos, na serra 6 coisa vulgar; • mas nunca aprendi as rezas, sei somente acompanhar. — Pois se o compadre soubesse rezar ou mesmo cantar, trabalhavamos a meias, que a freguesia bem dd. — Agora se me permite minha vez de perguntar: • como senhora, cornadre, pode manter o seu lar? — Vou explicar rapidamente, logo compreenderi: como aqui a morte tanta, vivo de a morte ajudar. — E ainda se me permite •que volte a perguntar: C aqui uma profissao trab,alho tao singular? - E, shit, uma profissao e a melhor de quantas hi: sou de toda a regiao rezadora titular. - E ainda se me permite mais outra vez indagar: boa essa profissao em que a comadre ora esti? • —De um raio de muitas leguas vem gente aqui me chamar; a verdade C que nao pude queixar-me ainda de azar. — E se pela Ultima vez me permite perguntar: Ira° existe outro trabalho para mim nesse lugar?

NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996


somente au i a distancia aquele bueiro de usina; somente naquela varzea urn bangtie velho em ruina. Por onde andard a gente que tantas canas cultiva? Feriando:'que nesta terra tao tacit, tdo doce e rica, ndo e preciso trabalhar todas as horas do dia, os dias todos do mes, os meses todos da vida. Decerto a gente daqui jamais envelhece aos trinta nem sabe da morte em vida, vida em morte, severina; e aquele cemiterio au, branco de verde colina, decerto pouco funciona e poucas covas aninha. ASSISTE AO ENTERRO DE UM TRABALHADOR DE EITO E OUVE 0 QUE DIZEM DO MORTO OS AMIGOS QVJE 0 LEVARAM AO CEMITERIO — Como aqui a morte é tanta, so é possivel trabalhar nessas profissOes que fazem da morte oficio ou bazar. Imagine que outra gente de profissdo similar, farmaceuticos, coveiros, doutor de anel no anular, remando contra a corrente da gente que baixa ao mar, retirantes as avessas, sobem do mar para cá. SO os rocados da morte compensam aqui cultivar, e cultiva-los é facil: simples questao de plantar; nao se precisa de limpa, de adubar nem de regar; as estiagens e as pragas fazemos mais prosperar; e dab lucro imediato; nem é preciso esperar pela colheita: recebe-se na hora mesma de semear 0 RETIRANTE CHEGA A ZONA DA MATA, QUE 0 FAZ PENSAR, OUTRA VEZ, EM INTERROMPER A VIAGEM. — Bern me diziam que a terra se faz mais branda e macia quando mais do litoral a viagem se aproxima. Agora afinal cheguei nesta terra que diziam. Como ela é uma terra doce para os pes e para a vista. Os rios que correm aqui tern agua vitalicia. Cacimbas por todo lado; cavando o chdo, agua mina. Vejo agora que e verdade o que pensei ser mentira Quern sabe se nesta terra nao plantarei minha sina? Nao tenho medo de terra (cavei pedra toda a vida), e para quern lutou a braco contra a picarra da Caatinga sera facil amansar esta aqui, tao feminina. Mas nao avisto ninguem, so folhas de cane fina; NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

— Essa cova em que estds, corn palmos medida, é a cota menor que,tiraste em vida. — E de born tamanho, nem largo nem fundo, é a parte que te cabe neste latifundio. —NA° é cova grande. é cova medida, é aterra que querias ver ,dividida. — E uma cova grande para teu pouco defunto, mas estaras mais ancho que,estavas no mundo. — E uma cova grande para teu defunto parco, porem mais que no mundo te sentirds largo. — E uma cova grande para tua came pouca, mas a terra dada ndo se abre a boca. — Viveras, e para sempre na terra que aqui aforas: e teras enfim tua roca. — Al ficaras para sempre, livre do sol e da chuva, criando tuas sailvas. — Agora trabalhards so para ti, ndo a meias, como antes em terra alheia. — Trabalharas uma terra da qual, alem de senhor, seras homem de eito e trator. — Trabalhando nessa terra, tu sozinho tudo empreitas: seras semente, adubo, colheita. Trabalhards numa terra que tambem te abriga e te veste: embora corn o brim do Nordeste. — Sera de terra tua derradeira camisa: te veste, como nunca em vida. — Sera de terra a tua melhor camisa: te veste e ninguem cobica. — Teras de terra completo agora o teu fato: e pela primeira vez, sapato. — Como es homem, a terra te dard chapeu: fosses mulher, xale ou veu. — Tua roupa melhor

sera de terra e ndo d fazenda: rid° se rasga nem se remenda. — Tua roupa melhor e te ficara bem cingida: como roupa feita a medida. =Esse chdo tee bem conhecido (bebeu teu suor vendido). — Esse chdo tee bem conhecido (bebeu o moco antigia) — Esse chdo tee bem conhecido (bebeu tua forca de marido). — Desse chdo es bem conhecido (atraves de parentes amigos). — Desse char) es bem onhecido (vive corn tua mu her, teus filhos) —Desse chao es bem onhecido (te espera de ream- ascido). — Ndo tens mais for a contigo: deixa-te semear ao c mprido. — já ndo levas sem nte viva: teu corpo é a prOpri maniva. — Nao levas rebolo de cana: es o rebolo, e ndo d caiana. — Ndo levas semente na mdo: es agora o pr6prio grab. — Ja ndo tens forca na perna: deixa-te semear na coveta. — JA ndo tens forca a mar): deixa-te semear no 1 irao. — Dentro da rede do vinha nada, sO tua espiga debuIhada. — Dentro da rede vmha tudo, sO tua espiga no sabugo. — Dentro da rede coisa vasqueira, s6 a macaroca banguela. — Dentro da rede c isa pouca, tua vida que deu seii soca. — Na mdo direita un rosario, milho negro e resse ado. — Na mdo direita s mente o rosario, seca seme te. — Na mdo direita, a e cinza, o rosario, semente aninha, — Na mao direita o rosario, semente inerte e se salto. — Despido vieste n a caixdo, despido tambem se enterra o grao. —De tanto te despiu a privacdo peito a que escapou de t viracdo. — Tanta coisa despite em vida que fugiu de teu pei o a brisa. — E agora, se abre a chdo e te abriga, lencol que nao tives e em vida. — Se abre o chdo e e fecha, dando-te agora cam e coberta. — Se abre o chao e e envolve, como mulher corn qu se dorme. ESOLVE 0 RETIRANTE APRESSAR OS P SOS PARA CHEGAR LOG M) RECIFE — Nunca esperei m ita coisa, digo a Vossas Senh rias. 0 que me fez retirait ndo foi a grande co ica; o que apenas busquei foi defender minha vida de tat velhice que c ega antes de se inteirar rinta; se na serra vivi vint , se alcancei Id tal m dida, o que pensei, retira do, foi estende-la urn p uco ainda. Mas ndo senti difer nca entre o Agreste e a aatinga, e entre a Caatinga e aqui a Mata

a diferenca é a mais minima. Esta apenas em que a terra é por aqui mais macia; esta apenas no pavio, ou melhor, na lamparina: pois ë igual o querosene que em toda parte ilumina, e quer nesta terra gorda quer na serra, de calica, a vida arde sempre corn a mesma chama mortica. Agora A que compreendo por que em paragens tdo ricas o rio ndo corta em pocos como ele faz na Caatinga: vive a fugir dos remansos a que a paisagem o convida, corn medo de se deter, grande que seja a fadiga. Sim, o melhor A apressar o fim desta ladainha, o fim do rosario de nomes que a linha do rio enfia; chegar logo ao Recife, derradeira ave-maria do rosario, derradeira invocacdo da ladainha, Recife, onde o rio some e esta minha viagem se fina. CHEGANDO AO RECIFE 0 RETIRANTE SENTA-SE, PARA DESCANSAR AO PE DE UM MURO ALTO E CAIADO E OUVE, SEM SERNOTADO, A CONVERSA DE DOIS COVEIROS — 0 dia hoje esta dificil; ndo se r onde vamos parar. Deviam dar urn aumento, ao menos aos deste setor de ca. As avenidas do centro sdo melhores, mas sao para os protegidos: ha sempre menos trabalho e gorjetas pelo servico; e é mais numeroso o pessoal (toma mais tempo enterrar os ricos). — pois eu me daria por contente se me mandassem para ca. Se trabalhasses no de Casa Amarela ndo estarias a reclamar. De trabalhar no de Santo Amaro deve alegrar-se o colega porque parece que a gente que se enterra no de Casa Amarela esta decidida a mudar-se toda para debaixo da terra. — E que o colega ainda nao viu o movimento: ndo A o que se ve. Fique-se por al urn momento e ndo tardardo a aparecer os defuntos que ainda hoje vdo chegar (ou partir, ndo sei). As avenidas do centro, onde se enterram os ricos, sao como o porto do mar; nao A muito all o servico: no maximo urn transatlantic() chega all cada dia, corn muita pompa, protocolo, e ainda mais cenografia. Mas este setor de ca como a estacdo dos trens: diversas vezes por dia chega o comboio de alguem. —Mas se teu setor é comparado estacdo central dos trens, o que dizer de Casa Amarela onde ndo para o vaivern? 31


Pode ser uma estacao mas nao estacao de trem: sera parada de onibus, corn files de mais de cem. — Entao por que nao pedes, já que es de carreira, e antigo, que te mandem para Santo Amaro se achas mais leve o servico? Nao creio que te mandassem para as betas avenidas onde estao os enderecos e o bairro da gente fina: isto 6, para o bairro dos usineiros, dos politicos, dos banqueiros, e no tempo antigo, dos bangtiezeiros (hoje estes se enterram em carneiros); bairro tambem dos industriais, dos membros das associacOes patronais e dos que foram mais horizontais nas profissOes liberais. Dificil é que consigas aquele bairro, logo de saida. — S6 pedi que me mandasse para as urbanizacOes discretas, corn seus quarteiroes apertados, corn suas comodas de pedra. — Esse 6 o bairro dos funciondrios, inclusive extranumerarios, contratados e mensalistas (menos os tarefeiros e diaristas). Para la vao os jornalistas, os escritores, os artistas; ali vao tambem os bancarios, as altas patentes dos cornerciarios, os lojistas, os boticarios, os localizados aeroviarios e os de profissees liberais que no se libertaram jamais. — Tambem urn bairro dessa gente temos no de Casa Amarela: cada urn em seu escaninho, cada urn em sua gaveta, corn o nome aberto na louse quase sempre em tetras pretas. Raras as tetras douradas, raras tambem as gorjetas. — Gorjetas aqui, tambem, s6 dá mesmo a gente rica, em cujo bairro nao se pode trabalhar em mangas de camisa; onde se exige quepe e farda engomada e limpa. — Mas nao foi pelas gorjetas, nao, que vim pedir remocao: é porque tern menos trabalho que quero vir para Santo Amaro; aqui ao menos ha mais gente para atender a freguesia, para botar a caixa cheia dentro da caixa vazia. — E que disse o Administrador, se é que te deu ouvido? — Que quando apareca a ocasiao atendera meu pedido. — E do senhor Administrador isso foi tudo que arrancaste? — No de Casa Amarela me deixou mas me mudou de arrabalde. — E onde vais trabalhar agora, qual o subdrbio que te cabe? — Passo para o dos industriarios,

que tambern é o 'dos ferroviarios, de todos os rodoviarios e pracas-de-pre dos cornerciarios. Passas para o dos operatfos, deixas o dos pobres varios; melhor: irk) sao to contagiosos e saq muito menOs numerosos. — E, deixo o sub6rbio dos indigentes onde se enterra toda essa gnnte que o rio afoga na preamar e sufoca na baixa-mar. — E a gente sem instituto, gente de bracos devolutos; sao os que jamais usam luto e se enterram sem salvocond,uto. — E a gente dos enterros gratuitos e dos defuntos ininterruptos. — E a gente retirante que vem do Sertao de longe. — Desenrolam todo o barbante e chegam aqui na jante. — E que entao, ao chegar, nao tern mais o que esperar. — Nao podem continuer pots tem pela frente o mar. — Nao tern onde trabalhar e muito menos onde morar. — E da maneira em clue este nag) vao ter onde se enterrar. — Eu tambem,antigainente, fui do subdrbio-dos indigentes, e uma coisa notei que jamais entenderei: essa gente do Sertao que desce para o Moral, sem razao, fica vivendo no meio da lama, comendo os sins que apanha; pois bem: quando sua morte chega, temos que enterra-los ern'terra seca. —Na verdade, seriamais rapid° e tambem muito mais beret° que os sacudissern de qualquer ponte dentro do rio e da morte. — 0 rio daria a mortalha e ate um macio caixao de ague; e tambem o acompanhamento que levaria corn passo lento O defunto ao enterro final a ser feito no mar de sat. — E nAo precisava dinheiro, e nAo precisava coveiro, e nao precisava oracao e nao precisava mscricao. — Mas o que se ve no 6 isso: sempre nosso servico crescendo mais cada dia; morre gente que nem vivia. — E esse povo de Id de riba de Pernambuco, da Paraiba, que vem buscar no Recife poder morrer de velhice, encontra se, aqui,chegando, cemiterio esperando. — Nao é viagem o que fazem vindo por essas caatingas, vargens; al esta o seu erro: vem é seguindo seu proprio enterro O RETIRANTE APROXIMASE DE UM DOS CAIS DO CAPIBARIBE — Nunca esperei muita coisa,

preciso que eu repita. Sebia que no rosario de cidade e de vilas, e mestno aqui no, Recife ao acabar nunha eseida, nAo seria difere a vide de cada d que sempre pas enxadas foices de corte e apina, ferros de cove, trovengas o meu braco esp rariam. Mas que se este ao mudasse seu uso de toda ida, esperei, devo di r, que ao menos a entaria na quartinha, a a ua.pouca, dentro da cuia, a fern-the, O algodiozinho da camisa, ao meu aluguel corn a vida. E chegando, aprendo que, nessa viagem que eu fazia, sem saber desde o Sertao, meu proprio enterro eu seguia. S6 que devo ter chegado adiantado de uns dias; o enterro espera na porta: o morto ainda este corn vide. A solucao é apressar a morte a que se decida e pedir a este rio que vem tambe la de cima, que me face aqu e enterro que o coveiro de revia: caixao macio de ma, mortatha macia cotoas de baron a Junto corn flores e aninga,' e aquele acomp harnento defigua.que sem e desfila (que o aqui Recife, nao seca, vat tod a vida). APROXIMA-S DO RETIRANTE 0 MORADOR DE UM DOS MOCAMBOS QUE •EXJ STEM ENTRE 0 CAIS E A AGUA DO RIO — Seu Jose mes e carpina, que habita este I acal, sabes me dizer s o rio a esta altura dá u? sabes me dizer s funda este ague grossa carnal? Severino, reti te, jamais o cruzei a ado; quando a mare e cheia vejo passar muit barcos, bereaves, alvare as, muitas de grande alado. Seu Jose, mes e carpina, para cobrir corp e homem nao é preciso mu o agua: basta que chega abdome, basta que tenha f ndura igual A de sus fo e. Severino, reti nte pois nao sei o qu the conte; sempre que cruzo'este rio costumo tomar a ponte; quanto ao vazio do estamago, se cruza quando se come. Seu Jose, mestre carpina, e quando ponte nao ha? quando os vazios da fome nao se tern corn que cruzar? quando esses rios sem agua sao grandes bravos de mar? — Severino, retirante, o meu amigo 6 bem mop; sei que a miseria e mar largo, nao é como qualqper poco: mas sei que para druza-la vale bem qualquer esforco.

— Seu Jose, mestre carpina, e quando 6 fundo o perau? quando a forca que morreu nem tern onde se enterrar, por que ao puxao das aguas nao é melhor se entregar? — Severino, retirante, o mar de nossa conversa precisa ser combatido, sempre, de qualquer maneira, porque sendo ele alarga e devasta a terra inteira. — Seu Jose, mestre carpina, e em que nos faz diferenca que como frieira se alastre, ou como rio na cheia, se acabamos naufragados num brag° do mar miseria? — Severino, retirante, muita diferenca faz entre lutar corn as maos e abandona-las para tras, porque ao menos esse mar nao pode adiantar-se mais. — Seu Jose, mestre carpina, e que diferenca faz que esse oceano vazio cresca ou ndo seus cabedais se nenhuma ponte mesmo de vence-lo capaz? — Seu Jose, mestre carpina, que the pergunte permita: ha muito no lamacal apodrece a sua vida? e a vida que tern vivido foi sempre comprada a vista? — Severino, retirante, sou de Nazare da Mata, mas tanto la como aqui jamais me fiaram nada: a vida de cada dia cada dia hei de compra-la. — Seu Jose, mestre carpina, e que interesse, me diga, ha nessa vida a retalho que e cada dia adquirida? espera poder urn dia comprd-la em grandes partidas? — Severino, retirante, nao sei bem o que the diga: nao é que espere comprar em grosso tais partidas, mas o que compro a retalho 6, de qualquer forma, vida. — Seu Jose, mestre carpina, que diferenca faria se em vez de continuar tomasse a melhor saida: a de saltar, numa noite,

32 NEWS from BRAZIL -JANUARY 1996


SOAS TRAZENDO pRESENTES PARA 0 RECEM-NASCIDO

"irilt;4, fora da ponte e da vida? UMA MULHER, DA PORTA DE ONDE SAIU 0 HOMEM, ANUNCIA-LHE 0 QUE SE VERA — Compadre Jose, compadre, que na relva estais deitado: conversais e não sabeis que vosso filho e chegado? Estais ai conversando em vossa prosa entretida: ndo sabeis que vosso filho saltou para dentro da vida? Saltou para dento da vida ao dar o primeiro grito; e estais ai conversando; pois sabeis que ele é nascido. APARECEM E SE APROXIMAM DA CASA DO HOMEM VIZINHOS, AMIGOS, DUAS CIGANAS, ETC — Todo o ceu e a terra lhe cantam louvor. Foi por ele que a mare esta noite ndo baixou. — Foi por ele que a mare fez parar o seu motor: a lama ficou coberta e o mau-cheiro nao voou. — E a alfazema do sargaco, acida, desinfetante, veio varrer nossas ruas enviada do mar distante. — E a lingua seca de esponja que tern o vento terral veio enxugar a umidade do encharcado lamacal. — Todo o ceu e a terra the cantam louvor e cada casa se torna num mocambo sedutor. — Cada casebre se torna no mocambo modelar que tanto celebram os sociOlogos do lugar. — E a banda de maruins que toda noite se ouvia por causa dele, esta noite, creio que ndo irradia. — E este rio de agua, cega, ou baca, de corner terra, que jamais espelha o ceu, hoje enfeitou-se de estrelas. COMEcAM A CHEGAR PESNEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

— Minha pobreza tat que ndo trago presente grande: trago para a mde caranguejos pescados por esses mangues; mamando leite de lama conservard nosso sangue. — Minha pobreza tat é que coisa alguma posso ofertar: somente o leite que tenho para meu filho amamentar; aqui todos sdo irmaos, de leite, de lama, de ar. — Minha pobreza tat é que nào tenho presente melhor: trago este papel de jornal para the servir de cobertor; cobrindo-se assim de letras vai urn dia ser doutor. — Minha pobreza tat é que ndo tenho presente caro: como rido posso trazer urn olho d'agua de Lagoa do Cerro, trago aqui agua de Olinda, agua da bica do Rosario. — Minha pobreza tat é que grande coisa ndo trago: trago este candrio da terra que canta sorrindo e de estalo. — Minha pobreza tat é que minha oferta ndo é rica: trago daquela bolacha d'agua que seo ern Paudalho se fabrica. — Minha pobreza tat é que melhor presente tido tern: dou este boneco de barro de Severino de Tracunhaem. — Minha pobreza tat é que pouco tenho o que dar: dou da pitu que o pintor Monteiro fabricava ern Gravatd. — Trago abacaxi de Goiana e de todo o Estado rolete de cana. — Eis ostras chegadas agora, apanhadas no cais da Aurora. — Eis tamarindos da Jaqueira e jaca da Tamarineira. — Mangabas do Cajueiro e cajus da Mangabeira. — Peixe pescado no Passarinho, came de boi dos Peixinhos. — Sins apanhados no lamacal que já no avesso da rua Imperial. — Mangas compradas nos quintais ricos do Espinheiro e dos Aflitos. — Goiamuns dados pela gente pobre da Avenida Sul e da Avenida Norte. FALAM AS DUAS CIGANAS QUE HAVIAM APARECIDO COM OS VIZINHOS — Atencdo peco, senhores, para esta breve leitura: somos ciganas do Egito, lemos a sorte futura. Vou dizer todas as coisas que desde já posso ver na vida desse menino acabado de nascer: aprendera a engatinhar por ai, corn aratus, aprendera a caminhar na lan1a, como goiamuns,

e a correr o ensinardo os anfibios caranguejos, pelo que sera anfibio como a gente daqui mesmo. Cedo aprendera a cacar: primeiro, corn as galinhas, que é catando pelo chdo tudo o que cheira a comida; depois, aprendera corn outras especies de bichos: corn os porcos nos monturos, corn os cachorros no lixo. Vejo-o, uns anos mais tarde, na ilha do Maruim, vestido negro de lama, voltar de pescar sins; e vejo-o, ainda maior, pelo imenso lamardo fazendo dos dedos iscas para pescar camardo. — Atencdo peco, senhores, tambern para minha leitura: tambem venho dos Egitos, you completar a figura. Outras coisas que estou vendo é necessario que eu diga: ndo ficara a pescar de jerere toda a vida. Minha amiga se esqueceu de dizer todas as linhas; Lido pensem que a vida dele ha de ser sempre daninha. Enxergo daqui a planura que e a vida do homem de oficio, bem mais sadia que os mangues, tenha embora precipicios. Ndo o vejo dentro dos mangues, vejo-o dentro de uma fabrica: se esta negro ndo é lama, é graxa de sua maquina, coisa mais limpa que a lama do pescador de mare que vemos aqui vestido de lama da cara ao pd. E mais: para que ndo pensem que em sua vida tudo é triste, vejo coisa que o trabalho talvez ate the conquiste: que e mudar-se destes mangues daqui do Capibaribe para um mocambo melhor nos mangues do Beberibe. FALAM OS VIZINHOS, AMIGOS, PESSOAS QUE VIERAM COM PRESENTES, ETC — De sua formosura ja venho dizer: é um menino magro, de muito peso rid° é, mas tern o peso de homem, de obra de ventre de mulher. — De sua formosura deixai-me que diga: uma crianca palida, uma crianca franzina, mas tern a marca de homem, marca de humana oficina. — Sua formosura deixai-me que cante: é urn menino guenzo como todos os desses mangues, mas a maquina de homem ja bate nele, incessante. — Sua formosura eis aqui descrita: uma crianca pequena, enclenque e setemesinha. mas as maos que criam coisas nas suas ja se adivinha. — De sua formosura deixai-me que diga: é belo como o coqueiro

que vence a areia marinha. — De sua formosura deixai-me que diga: belo como o avelOs contra o Agreste de cinza. — De sua formosura deixai-me que diga: belo como a palmatOria na caatinga sem saliva. — De sua formosura deixai-me que diga: tdo belo como um sim nurna sala negativa. — E tao belo como a soca que o canavial multiplica. — Belo porque e uma porta abrindo-se em mais saidas. — Belo como a ultima onda que,o fim do mar sempre adia. — E CR, belo como as onclas em sua adicdo infinita. — Belo porque tern do novo a surpresa e a alegria. — Belo como a coisa nova na prateleira ate entdo vazia. — Como qualquer coisa nova inaugurando o seu dia. — Ou como o caderno novo quando a gente o principia. — E belo porque o novo todo o velho contagia. — Belo porque corrompe corn sangue novo a anemia. — Infecciona a miseria corn vida nova e sadia. — Corn oasis, o deserto, corn ventos, a calmaria. 0 CARPINA FALA COM 0 RETIRANTE QUE ESTEVE DE FORA, SEM TOMAR PARTE DE NADA — Severino, retirante, deixe agora que the diga: eu ndo sei bem a resposta da pergunta que fazia, se rid° vale mais saltar fora da ponte e da vida; nem conheco essa resposta, se quer mesmo que the diga dificil defender, so corn palavras, a vida, ainda mais quando eta é esta que ye, severina mas se responder ndo pude pergunta que fazia, eta, a vida, a respondeu corn sua presenca viva. E ndo hO melhor resposta que o espetaculo da vida: ve-la desfiar seu fio, que tambem se chama vida, ver a fabrica que eta mesma, teimosamente, se fabrica, ve-la brotar como ha pouco ern nova vida explodida; mesmo quando é assim pequena a explosdo, como a ocorrida; como a de ha pouco, franzina; mesmo quando é a explosdo de uma vida severina. Published originally under the title "Morte e Vida Severina". From the book

Morte e Vida Severina e outros poemas para vozes by Joao Cabral de Melo Neto, Editora Nova Fronteira, Rio de Janeiro 33


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TRAVEL NEWS from BRAZIL -JANUARY 1996


California's Cheremoya Samba School is both an oddity and pleasant surprise: the Escola de Samba in which only the music is Brazilian.: For ten years now, American teacher Lee Cobin has been conducting his dream project, the fruit of his love for Brazilian music. ARIANE DALLA DEA If you are in Southern California and you have been to folkloric shows and festivals, then you must know them. Every year they are one of the main attractions at the traditional Los Angeles Festival of Masks. They have also appeared at the Pasadena's Doodah Parade, a spoof on the worldfamous New Year's Rose Parade. They are the Cheremoya Samba School, a heterogeneous group that reunites 60 people, with ages ranging from 6 to 42 and is intent on divulging the Brazilian music. Not for lack of invitations, there are no Brazilians teaching, no Brazilians participating, no Brazilians period among them. The Samba School, which gets its name from the Cheremoya Elementary School, the place where they rehearse their sound and steps, is the apple of the eye of two Americans who have fallen in love with Brazil. One is Lee Cobin, who started teaching samba to his students 10 years ago. The other is Linda Yudin, a dance ethnologist specialized in Northeastern Brazilian dances, who joined Cobin, three years ago. Linda and Lee do not profit financially from their work promoting Brazil. They do this on their spare time and out of gratitude, as they say, for a culture that enriched them so much. After receiving his bachelor's degree in Spanish and French in 1976. Lee went to Brazil to live mostly mostly in Bahia for two years. To survive he taught English and learned Portuguese. For fun and curiosity he traveled around, visiting Sao Paulo, Minas Gerais, Rio de Janeiro, and Rio Grande do ,Sul. It would take him seven years to return to Brazil. This time, however, he had some plans: like learning more about Brazilian rhythms, mostly those from the Northeast. It was after his second trip to Brazil, in 1984, that Lee, a Bilingual Coordinator at Cheremoya Elementary School in HollyNEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY

Angelique Bermudes


wood since 1980, had the idea to teach Brazilian music, The oldest member of the group is Steve Young, 42, and samba in special, to his kids. Soon the small group who has been playing for two years now. He came to that he had created started to grow. Chcremoya drawn by the appeal of Brazilian northTo learn what he was going to teach he joined a now ea s .-rn music. When he is not with the band he is a defunct Los Angeles samba group called Embrasamba do, or at the UCLA (University of California, Los and started to practice. For the first five years the band, .\a- dies) Medical Center. Steve went to Brazil in 1985 as Lee recalls, "was only a samba group." for a two-week That's when Brazilian sambista Renilde Flores course at the came to teach some dance and the samba Sao Paulo's school was then formed. Escola PauAs for Yudin, she has been involved with lista de MediBrazilian culture for more than 10 years. Her cina and he has interest in Afro-Brazilian music and dance been in love started in 1986 when she had a course on Latin with Brazilian American Dances at the University of Califormusic ever nia, Los Angeles, in which a Brazilian group since. At that called Bahia Magia presented some shows. time, he bouLinda fell in love with Candomble. She says "I ght a berimbau fell in love with the Brazilian culture that night and learned I saw Bahia Magia for the first time." how to play it. Besides teaching regional dances from BraLinda Yudin and LeeCobin Steve met Lee zil, Linda shows her students how the mixture 4h-while taking of the influences and the contributions from PortuBahian rhythm lessons from Meia Noite. guese, African, and Native cultures shaped the Brazil— Victor Garcia, 20, has been with the band almost ian folklore. In her choreography she includes from its beginning. He used to listen to the band since candomble, samba, samba-reggae, maculete, and he was JO. and joined it when he was 11. He is a big fan maracatu. Yudin was so infatuated with the Brazilian of Olodum and Daniela Mercury, and intends to spend culture and rhythms that when an opportunity apsome time in Brazil as soon as he ends his course on peared, she gave up a Fullbright scholarship to study Mechanical Engineering from Cal State University the influence of Egyptian culture in Israel to go to: Northridge. Brazil. Janet Ventura and Fatima Bittencourt, two of the There, although not speaking Portuguese, she met four girls who play in the band, were the first girls to Mestre King, or Raymundo Bispo dos Santos, who join in. Boibh are 15 years old and have been playing for directed her to produce the programs of choreography two years. For Janet, the exciting part is to play the big and projects of dance she now teaches. "Dance and drums. Fatima also says that the rhythm of the drums is music are cultural media to see Brazil as a whole.. what has drawn her to the band. " Mestre King was my main inspiration to teach choreJanet thinks that "girls should get into playing ography to the girls," says Linda. samba. I thought that the guys would feel weird about One of Linda's and Lee's main links to Brazilian r us, but we actually bonded with these people." "We are music is Meia Noite and his Midnight Drums band. like a family here," says Fatima. "Everybody gets Since 1990, Lee plays with the Midnight Drumm, and along well,- adds Janet. The two girls listen to BrazilLinda had a long term relationship with drummer Meia ian music at home, and all around their community Noite. Occasionally Meia Noite shows up at the rebecause it has become popular. While the band is hearsals to give the kids a feel of the real Bahian music. mostly composed of males, the dance group is 100% Duilio Cosenza, Lee's long time friend and mentor, girls, who are currently attending Cheremoya Elemenand who played with such renowned musicians as Jaci5 tary School. do Bandolim, is another musical influence in Lee's Linda believes that "art helps to educate. I like to bloco. From Duilio, Lee learned to play the cavaquinhd, work with children, and this program is a free opportuand inspired by him added the chorinho and sambanity to teach them the Brazilian culture." She says that canctio rhythms to the Cheremoya Samba School's the lack of money has been the main obstacle to repertoire. continue the program. "The Los Angeles Unified School 1 he participants in the Escola de Samba ,:snrn e fp)m District thinks that the program is excellent, but do not many countries, finance us in anyway." Some little but there is no one support they have has been comfrom Brazil. "It ing from Robinsons/May Comdoesn't make too pany and Remo Instruments, and much sense to from the Los Angeles Adminisplay Brazilian tration." "Brazilians like our premusic without sentations but they don't particiBrazilian peopate," says Linda. ple," comments Lee says that the band is alLee. "I'd like to ways getting accolades from those see some Brazilwho see them playing. "They alian kids partiways praise us," he comments, cipating in the "but very few come up with some dancing or musifunds to help us improve. We cal rehearsals, showed the kids and the music to and in the conthe Brazilian Consulate in Los certs. It would Angeles, trying to get some sponbring some true sorship from them, but all in vain." Brazilian colors." There is no fee involved ARhe interested person has to do is to show up. The two-hour , For more information you can talk to Lee rehearsals happen once a week. Cobin at (213) 464-1722. 36

NEWS from BRAZIL -JANUARY 19%


Porto Alegre, gancho Santa Teresa, six km from capital and Brazil's sixth the city center. This 131biggest city, lies on the eastmeter-high hill provides ern bank of the Rio Guaiba good views of the city and at the point where it empthe Rio Guaiba. ties into the huge Lagoa One real Porto Alegre dos Patos. It's a modern tradition is to have a late city which makes a living afternoon chopp(draft beer) predominantly from its at the Chale da Praca XV freshwater port and comon Praca 15 in front of the merce. Originally settled by market. Constructed in the Portuguese in 1755 to 1885, it's the most tradiWith its traditions, festivals, keep the Spanish out, Porto tional bar-restaurant in the beaches, mountain resorts and Alegre was never a center city, and a great place to forest reserves, Rio Grande do Sul of colonial Brazil and is people watch. is a show apart in culturally and mainly a product ofthe 20th LITORAL GAUCHO natural-resources rich Brazil. century, which is when The Litoral Gaacho many German and Italian makes up a 500-km strip immigrants arrived here. along the state of Rio Although most travelers just pass through Grande do Sul — from Torres in the north until Porto Alegre, it's an easy place in which to Chui at the Uruguayan border. Of all Brazil's spend a few days. There are some interesting coast, this is the least distinguished, the least museums, some impressive neo-classical varied. The beaches are really one long beach buildings and the friendly gaachos uninterrupted by geographical variaand their barbecued meat—the city tions, wide open, with little vegetaabounds in churrascarias. tion and occasional dunes. The sea Don't forget that Porto Alegre here is choppier than in Santa has distinct seasonal weather chanCatarina, the water less translucent. ges: it gets very hot in summer (above In winter, currents from the Ant40°C) and you need a good jacket in arctic bring cold, hard winds to the the winter. City beaches are too polcoast. Bathing suits disappear, as well luted for swimming. as most people. Most hotels shut Museu Historic° Julio de Casdown in March and the summer beach tilhos — Near the cathedral at Rua season doesn't return until NovemDuque de Caxias 1231, this interestber at the earliest, with the arrival of ing museum contains diverse objects the northern winds. concerning the history of the state: The three big resort towns on the things like special moustache cups, a north coast are Torres, Capfto da pair of giant's shoes and a very intriCanoa and Tramandai. Torres, the cate wooden chair. furthest from Porto Alegre, is only Museu de Arte do Rio Grande three hours away by car. All three do Sul — In the Praca da Alfandega, have medium-size airports, luxury this one has a good collection of hotels and upscale nightlife, and they works by gaficho artists. all fill up in the summer with Porto Mercado Ptiblico— Constructed Alegrenses, Uruguayans and Argenin 1869 the market is a lively one and tineans. This is not where you go to lots of stalls sell the unique tea-drinkget away from it all. There are many ing equipment of the gaachos: the campgrounds and cheaper hotels in cuia (gourd) and bomba (silver the towns, but the flavor is much straw). These are good, portable soumore that of well-to-do weekend revenirs. sorts than of fishing villages. Parque Farroupilha — This big, Torres central park is a good place to see Torres is 205 km from Porto gafichos at play. If you're due for Alegre. It is well known for its fine some exercise they have bikes to beaches and the beautiful, basaltic rent. On Sunday mornings, the Brique rock formations along the coast. This da Redencao, a market/fair, fills up a is good country in which to walk and corner of the park with antiques, explore, and if you can get here early leather goods and music. or late in the season, when the crowds Instituto Gaucho de Tradicao e have thinned out, it's especially Folclore — If you're really interworthwhile. There is also an ecoested in the traditions of the gaacho, logical reserve on the Ilha dos LoDona Lilian, the chief archivist at bos. this institution, can show you some Festival — A big drawcard over excellent photographs. They also sell the last few years has been the balbooks (in Portuguese) relating to looning festival, held near the end of every aspect of gaficho life. It's at March. Rua Siqueira Campos 1184, on the Cap° da Canon 5th floor. This is a smaller resort, 140 km Morro Santa Teresa — Porto from Porto Alegre, without the glamAlegre is renowned for its stunning our and glitz of Torres. The best sunsets. The best place to watch one is Morro known beach is Praia de Atlantida, three km

Sirming south

NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

37


from the town. The beach is big and broad, and active windsurfing scene on the lagoons. Tramandai Only 120 km from Porto Alegre, Tramandes permanent population of some 15,000 swells to half a million in January. On summer weekends the beaches are the busiest in the state; they're good, though not as nice as in Torres. Festival — There is a good festival here in late June, the Festa de sao Pedro, with a procession of boats on the sea. PELOTAS If they gave out awards for the most outfageou looking bus station in Brazil, Pelotas would be a major*. contender in the 'Imaginative Uses of Concrete' category3 Pelotas, 251 km south of Porto Alegre, was a major port in the 19th century for the export of dried beef and was home to a sizable British community. The wealtE generated is still reflected in the grand, neo-classical 4 mansions around the main square, Praca General Osorio. Today the town is an important industrial center, and' much of its canned vegetables, fruits and sweets are exported. There's really no reason to stay in Pelotas, but if ! you're waiting at the rodoviaria for a bus connection, and c you have some time to spare, it's worth going into .the center for a look. RIO GRANDE Once an important cattle center, Rio Grande lies near the mouth of the Lagoa dos Patos, Brazil's biggest lagoon. To the north, the coast along the lagoa is lightly inhabited. There's a poor dirt road along this stretch, which is connected with Rio Grande by a small ferry boat. It's an active port city, and while not a great drawcard, it's motC interesting than Pelotas if you want to break your journey in this area. Catedra I de Sao Pedro — This cathedral is the olde church in the state, and was erected by the Portuguese , colonists. In baroque style, it's classified as part of the Patrimonio Histerico. Even if you don't usually look at churches, this is an interesting one. Museu Oceanografico — This museum is the most complete of its type in Latin America. Two km from the center, it has a large shell collection and skeletons of whales and dolphins. , Other Museums — The Museu da Cidade is in the old customs house, which Dom Pedro II ordered built on Rua Riachuelo. Across the road is the Museu do Departaminto Estadual de Portos, Rios e Canais (DEPREC), which houses the machinery used during the construction cif the large breakwater. Sao Jose do Norte — Boats leave from the terminal at ft,. the waterfront every 40 minutes and make the trip across the mouth of the Lagoa dos Patos to the fishing village of Sao Jose do Norte. This is a nice trip to do around sunset. Around Rio Grande Cassino — Twenty-five km south of Rio Grande, 0 reached by local bus from Praca Tamandare, Cassino is a 4. D-grade beach resort popular in summer with Uruguay- ans and Argentineans. If you like littered, windswept beaches, brown sea water and cars zipping up and down the beach, this is the place for you. SERRA GAUCHA North of Porto Alegre, you quickly begin to climljnt the Serra Gaticha. The ride is beautiful, as are the 11)untain towns of Gramado and Canela, 140 km from Porto Alegre. First settled by Germans in 1824 and later by Italians in the 1870s, the region is as close to the Alps ass Brazil gets. It's known as the Regiao das Hortensia0 (Geranium Region). Both towns are popular resorts and are crowded with Porto Alegrenses in all seasons, hut particularly when it's hottest in the big city. There are many hotels and restaurants, particularly in Gramado 38

3 aus defend. In the Indians b orth of San The ails delatia, grew cro re miniature cities eluded libraries, bap ries for the Indian con The missions bee; e and intellect S well as religion. An baroque and native Guarani arts, rill's doped. Indian scholars created a written. form rani and from 1704 published several works ani in one of the earliest printing presse As the missions grew, the e in e more independent of Rome and relatio Vatican became strained. The nation within a nation became an embarrassment to the Iberian kings and finally in 1777 the Portuguese minister Marques de Pomba' convinced Carlos III to expel the Jesuit priests from Spanish lands. Thus ended, in the opinion of many historians, a grand 160-year experiment in socialism, where wealth was equally divided, and religion, intellect and the arts flourished — a utopian island of progress in an age of monarchies and institutionalized slavery. Administration of the mission villages passed into the hands of the colonial government and the communities continued until the early 1800s, when they were destroyed by revolutionary wars of independence and then abandoned. Today, there are 30 ruined Jesuit missions: seven lie in Brazil, in the western part of Rio Grande do Sul. Brazilian Missions -- Sao Miguel das Missoes — This mission, 58 km from Santo A.ngelo, is the most interesting of the Brazilian ones. Every evening at 8 PM there's a sound and light show. Also nearby are the missions of Sao Joao Batista (on the way to Sao Miguel) and Sao Lourenco das Missaes (10 km from Sao Joao Batista by dirt road). NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996


many with a German influence. Prices are high for Brazil. Hikers abound in the mountains here. In the winter there are occasional snowfalls and in the spring the hills are blanketed with flowers. The best spot is the Parque Estadual do Caracol, which is reached by local bus from Canela, eight km away. Gramado This touristy mountain resort is a favorite with wellto-do Argentineans, Uruguayans, Paulistas and gaftchos. It has lots of cosy restaurants, expensive, Swiss-style chalet/hotels and well-manicured gardens. Parks — Well kept parks close to town include the Lago Negro at Rua 25 de Julho 175, which has lots of pine trees and a small lake, and the Parque Knorr at the end of Rua Bela Vista. The latter has lots of flowers and a good view of the spectacular Vale do Quilombo. There's also the Lago Joaquina Rita Bier, a lake surrounded by geraniums, at Rua Leopoldo Rosenfeldt. Festival — Each June Gramado hosts the Brazilian Film Festival. Canela While not as up-market as Gramado, Canela is the best jumping-off point for some great hikes and bike rides in the area. There are cheaper hotels here than in Gramado, so budget travelers should make this their base. Parque Estadual do Caracol —Eight km from Canela, the major attraction of this park is a spectacular waterfall 130 meters high. You don't have to do any hiking to see it as it's very close to the park entrance. On the road to the park, two km from the center of Canela, is a 700-year-old, 42-meter-tall araucaria pine. Ferradura — A seven-km hike from .the park entrance brings you to Ferradura, a stunning 400-meterdeep horseshoe canyon formed by the Rio Santa Cruz. You can camp in here, but you have to bring everything with you. Castelinho --- One of the oldest houses in the area, on the road to the park, Castelinho is a pioneer museum, a German restaurant and chocolate shop. Festival — From 26 to 28 May, 80,000 pilgrims arrive to celebrate the Festa de Nossa Senhora de Caravaggio. There is a six-km procession from the Igreja Matriz to the Parque do Saiqui. PARQUE NACIONAL DE APARADOS DA SERRA This national park is Rio Grande do Sul's most magnificent area and one of Brazil's great natural wonders. It is 70 km north of Sao Francisco de Paula, and 18 km from the town of Cambard do Sul. Things to See — The park preserves one of the country's last araucaria forests (pine-like trees that stand up to 50 meters tall), but the main attraction is the Canyon do Itaimbezinho, a fantastic narrow canyon with sheer 600 to 720-meter parallel escarpments. Two waterfalls drop into this deep incision in the earth, which was formed by the Rio Perdiz' s rush to the sea. Another of the park's attractions is the Canyon da FortaExcerpts from Brazil leza, a 30-km stretch A Travel Survival Kit of escarpment with 2nd edition, 900-meter drops. You by Andrew Draffen, can see the coast from here. Nearby on one Deanna Swaney of the walls of the canand Robert Strauss. For yon is the Pedra do more information call Segredo, a five-meter Lonely Planet: (800) 275monolith with a very 8555. Copyright 1992 small base. It's 23 km Lonely Planet Publications. from Cambard, but unUsed by permission. fortunately in a different direction from Itaimbezinho. NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

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America, the Ugly After almost nine years in the US reporting on Hollywood and the American scene, Brazilian journalist Ana Maria Bahiana has written a book on the places, things and people she has been observing. In dictionary format, America de A a Z (America from A to Z), subtitled Almost everything you need to know to survive the American dream, talks from Aeroporto ("they are all over") to Zebra — surprise — ("There are no zebras in the US."). The book is, as Bahiana confesses on the foreword, an answer to those who ask her every time she goes back to Brazil, "How is life in the US?" MARIA ALVIM For those who may suggest that she, as a foreigner living in the US, has no business criticizing the United States and its institutions, as well as people, she is quick to point out a list of places, people and things — all very much American — that she loves unrestrictedly: blues, jazz and rock'n roll, New York bookstores, Groucho Marx and Martin Scorsese, the colors of New Mexico and the Mississippi Delta, just to name a few. And after 8 1/2 years in Los Angeles, this Carioca (Rio native) calls both cities home, and believes she understands Brazilian and American cultures well enough to appreciate and dislike them both. Ana Maria's critical thinking, sharp and revealing, is in part thg result of a lifelong career dedicated to journalism — mostly covering culture and behavior. In Brazil she has worked for major newspapers (Jornal do Brasil and 0 G 1 oho among others) and maga 40

NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996


zines like the Brazilian Rolling Stone. Today she is an international correspondent and, since 1992, the Los Angeles editor of the Londonbased magazine Screen International. Here, Ana Maria gives News from Brazil readers an insight into America de A a Z. When and why did you decide to write the book? In fact, throughout the years I've always kept some notes about day-to-day life here. Then, while talking with Isa Pessoa, of Editora Objetiva (which published the book), she suggested that I wrote down my notes by using the old almanac style, which allows for the use of several other styles within it: essays, chronicles, dialogues... That's how it happened. In the introduction of America de A a Z you hope the book fulfills Brazilians' curiosity about life in the US. Do you think they have a realistic idea about American culture and way of life? Or are there many myths? I think there are lots of myths, but the essential one is that "here (Brazil) everything is bad; there (US) everything is good. Here nothing works; there everything works." Implicitly there is the notion that "They (Americans) are superior to us (Brazilians); they know things we don't know." That's totally false. What I tried to show in the book is that the human being is the same — with the same needs, idiosyncrasies and desires. The chaos, the confusion is the same, only it's expressed in a different way, following different rituals. In many cases Brazil has found much better solutions than in the United States, and many things work much better in Brazil — others don't. Are Brazilians surprised by what you reveal in the book? Very surprised... AlthoughI've heard many people say they had a vague idea that things were not so perfect, but they refused to believe it. Do you think you share the same perception of American culture with other Brazilians, or with other foreign groups living in the US? I really couldn't say. This book was extremely personal. It's the closest I've come to writing a diary. There are stories in the book that happened to non-American friends of mine. And I guess some of my experiences are similar to others', but I didn't have that in mind when I wrote the book. Have you had any feedback from Americans who have read the book? Only two. One from this guy who reads Portuguese, knows a lot about Brazil and is married to a Brazilian: He loved it. The other was from a journalist (The Miami Herald correspondent in Rio) who was outraged. She wrote an article about the book, in which she just stopped short of demanding that Clinton send 1EVVS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

his troops to Brazil. The core of her article was: "How can someone who is from a country where everything goes wrong dare to criticize the US? In your opinion, could more Americans read Portuguese, how, would they react to America de A a Z? Do Americans have a sense of humor? I think they have. It's kind of funny, a bit aggressive, different from our sense of humor. As for this reaction, I would think that, initially, they would be offended. Americans are not used to being criticized — even if it is in a good-humored or loving way, like in the book. Those who have lived abroad, or who travel a lot tend to have a more open mind and would probably understand that. In Brazil (see excerpt) Americans are depicted as being completely misinformed culturally, geographically and historically. Is that due to arrogance, or are they victims of their own education system that doesn't include geography (and barely touches World History) in its curriculum? I think both things are interconnected. On one hand, the American education system is facing a very serious crisis. But even before that there was this attitude — intrinsically arrogant — of focusing all the knowledge, the education, around what happens in the US. Do you feel this misinformation exists even in the big cities, like Los Angeles and New York, where there's such a great cultural diversity? Absolutely. All those expressions and observations I mentioned were actually said to me, or I read them in newspaper and magazine articles about Brazil. They are not the fruit of my imagination. All I.did was to edit the absurdities I' ye heard throughout the years. Same with the 'Soccer' chapter? Listen, I wrote that chapter during the World Cup. Again, all those ihings I either heard or read about— including this business that hitting he ball with the head prevents norknal growth. There was even a debate about it in the radio, and it went bn for hours. Based on what kind of observations did you write about the 'Race' chapter? (See excerpt) That's something I wrote about not long after I had moved to this country. And it is not so much about racism — which is despicable and exists everywhere, including in Brazil, as it is about the American obsession to classify. David Byrne once told me that the US is no melting pot, that in reality this was a big myth. Instead, he said, the US is like a "TV dinner." That's when I started to understand that by being classified, people are bound to a certain place in the social structure, which is determined by the label they carry. What is incredible is that this divisive mentality is so strong that cultural groups quickly learned that in order to survive and to negotiate in this society, they had to set themselves up as an ethnic group. In Brazil, 41


when we say we're a Latin culture, it means we share a common cultural heritage. In the US, when you say you're Latino, people immediately assume you have dark skin, a certain type of accent, and similar hair color. It becomes a definition of race. That's why when Americans try to argue with me I give Americana (in the State of Sao Paulo) as an example: The city was founded by American refugees fleeing the civil War. To which race, then, belongs the Confederate's granddaughter, who was born and lives in Americana? People don't know how to answer that. Do you understand, now, where all this labeling fails? Tell us briefly about some other chapters in your book. On "Election..." We, Brazilians, had to struggle so hard to get what Americans take for granted!... They don't value what they have. On "Religion..." Americans are religious, but here religion seems to be more of a social contract than a spiritual experience. At the church they'll meet people who may be useful to their careers, or if the person is single, he may find a potential date, or even the future wife... It's essentially a social practice. On "Family..." It has to do with individualism, and it's opposite to Japan, for instance, where everything is determined by the family, not by the individual. It strikes me that here the, family motivating factor lies in distancing. When I tell people that I grew up in a house shared by five generations, they think it's totally surreal. Are there any plans to have the book translated into English? There are two things I'd love to do: One is to write America de A a Z— Part 2, and secondly, to have the book translated into English. I must admit it's my fault not having worked out the English version yet. • 42

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ood for evsa.-p pi I have esras for desperates, aridtaste it screaming, The Korean tnoney- b es ni.ar; 'a H even lower than American gether. gesapd ti) hveov iksstawayundai i' ut• I-Iowa's and t7ecaciecfpsiscai tee:7i, Tercel, Corolla) send Toyotas 0.K, btit nO d basic models (Civic, big deal. o around erille°111e' (eLltetxeulsi,nieproun On tr: ithill lessage: most luxurious andsnobbish cars from hand,come some of the f.tty17...very sante jaPsOese manufacturers the

SOCCER once and for all why this O0 will never worl„ here in v11 tellof soccer business the United States I mean., never, ever, s evert Virst, because if s played with one' feet... A sport, to be considered human and of intelligent, ought to be played with one's which are noble and capablease complex achievements, like bhands, yourholdiriga opponerits all

ball bat, orthe pushing down into mud. Secondly, because it uses one' s bead besides the feet... Ihd s why people from soccer-playing countries are so short and, frarildy, so underdoeloped: Because they' ve spent their lives bein hit iit tlie head by that heavy ball... In thiTd place, becaix>e, honestly, nothing happens,wenw i.e., the' fellas' runlittle ball get the game is stupid: T a tiny purpose of ning to And how many times doesand a nettrying, that big. thathappenina game? Once'? 'Twice? inside Three tirnes?.. If the s nothing_ Incidentall... fourth reason: 1-Iow without statistics?... i for 90 minutes, one can there be a sport , or both tie. uys run arother ound looses 'The g . fifthside thea WaSte of timel..., That!wins, s it *hat er 1isheharm rtant Socc impo icehow soccerreason is very ful to the economy... 'Spl practicing countrics are forever troubled by the economy, recession, out-of-control inflatiord Arid do you want to loiow why'? Because soccer doesn' t promote consumerism— llow can one promote corisionerism around such a miserable sport that requires oftly feet, gtound and a ball'? ... And finally, because it was not invented ludic kJ ailed S tates... If God wanted to play soccer,l-te would' ve AMetiCartS enlightened our Founding f athers so that for they, in. their vtisdora, could include the game in this country' s essential practices, gun... alorigi, with the right to freedom,.a wealth. and the fight to carry happiness NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

I'm holding the special edition of Miles Kimball's Christmas catalog... Here are some of the highlights... Page 2. Plastic fireplace. It's shipped disassembled.., and includes a fake wooden mantel with a Christmas garland decorating it. The product's description warns that the contraption is useless for burning logs, and for Santa Claus' triumphant arrival... Page 16. My favorite: Elvis' Christmas ball ornament. Silver, with._ his name and dates of birth and death. The description states, "It deserves a place of honor on any fan's Christmas tree."

CURSING (Editor's Note: This one you have to see for yourself.

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**Applicable taxes are supplement. NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY


zilian otas SCOTT ADAMS • In his liner notes for Verve's new 3-CD collection Antonio Carlos Jobim, The Man From Ipanema, Brazilian music author Sergio Cabral recalls a 22 year old arranger for Continental Records in 1953 who worked long hours to support his new family, and was always chasing the rent. A far cry from the image of the man who today is recognized worldwide as one of this century's greatest songwriters. And 42 years ago, not even Jobim himself knew what the future held for him. Jobim transformed popular music on two continents, and many of his most creative recordings are included here. Selected and notarized by his long time friend and musical confidant, guitarist Oscar Castro-Neves, Antonio Carlos Jobim, The Man From Ipanema, provides a wealth of information on the. man and his life. The release of this collection reconstructs the birth of Bossa Nova, a subject not covered widely in the English-speaking press.

Regina, "Double Rainbow" and Bossa Nova's first real hit "Chega de Saudade." "So Dango Samba" and "The Girl From Ipanema" with saxophonist Stan Getz. "Tide" and "Wave:" two songs written over the same chord changes. The list goes on: "Agua de Beber" with Astrud Gilberto. "Dindi, "Zingaro," and three versions of "Desafinado:" Was it really a song about a mismatched love affair, or a subtle jab at Bossa's early critics? "Fayela," "Meditation," and "Amor em Paz." "Corcovado," "Captain Bacardi" and "Insensatez." "Vivo Sonhando," "One Note Samba" and "Triste."

his previous Heads Up releases Seduction, Dreams & Desires, and Passions, Illusions & Fantasies, Perera has an inclusive musical insight that extends past cultural boundaries.

ries a fresh perspective that yields an album filled with surprises. Songs like "One For Tom," (a tribute to Antonio Carlos Jobim) "Paco & Dave" and "Latin Quarter" are upbeat and playful, while others, such as "AbraAnd it's precisely this cadabra" and "Valse Triste" perspective that gives Chris- develop into deep swinging tmas Fantasies its unique grooves. This fiesta of inappeal. "Winter Wonder- strumental music is a true land" and "What Child Is melting pot: incorporating This" take on a refreshed, rhythms and melodies from revitalized feel, as a result Brazil, Cuba, The Caribbean of the rhythmic and har- and across Latin America, monic interplay with Pere- as D'Rivera explains: "Carra's signature harp style. ibbean and Latin music share Others, such as "La Pere- the same roots, but are very grinacion" and "Nit10 Lindo" different. We mixed the isprovide a glimpse into Pere- land sounds that Andy plays ra's own childhood memo- into a jazz language. The ries by translating the Latin whole thing about interactAmerican traditions into a ing with the sounds of other Pan-American hybrid. If you cultures is learning to pay think sand instead of snow respect to the music. For inwhen someone mentions the stance, you don't need to be word "white," The Carib- from Cuba to play Cuban bean Jazz Project will surely music, but if you respect it, fit-id a place in your music the music becomes deep and collection. Vibist Dave sincere." Samuels, Steel pan wiz Andy Narell and reedman You may sample Antonio Paqulto D'Rivera have Carlos Jobim, The ManFrom teamed up for an album filled Ipanema; Christmas Fantawith musical gifts from sies and The Caribbean Jazz Cuba, Brazil and the calypso Project 24 hours a day by beat of the Caribbean. calling The Brazilian Music

Just in time for Winter come two new releases from Heads Up International that are perfect for the season. Roberto Perera's Christmas Fantasies features the Uruguayan harpist with a collection of Yuletide favorites. Each of the 11 tracks holds a special charm, and Perera's mastery of his instrument, plus the added appeal of the Latin American perspective makes this album a winner in a crowded •field of Holiday music alterReview Listener Line natives. Perera's fondness Structured to showcase at (708) 292-4545.Availfor smooth Brazilian each of the group members able at all Tower music Thoughtfully culling rhythms carries through individually and in pairs, The stores or call from over 30 years of mas- much of this album. As with Caribbean Jazz Project car1 800 ASK TOWER. terful recordings, CastroNeves includes many of his favorite selections. Each track falls into place on one ANTONIO of the three CD's, Vocal, CARLOS Instrumental, and Back to This is the most -anticipated release of We year not just for fans of Brazilian musicsr as, but for connoisseura of great songwriting and Back (comparative studies great music the fiftr five songs in this collection ninfg aunt Put Antonio Carlos lohim on di of selected songs). his facets as an artist, guKarist pianist vocalist end, ur Antonio Carlos Jobim, composer included is a containing rare family photographs, interviews, and an extensive essay. The Man From Ipanema CD ei is dowdiest to so Clanif vocal renditions CO.. comprises in instrumento/ polorrnonces shows careful preparation CD*, provides a chance to hear, side by sista versions of Si, 1.1141 hy different ndiskiens when it comes to the extenjoy-five songs in this collect•on feature Antonio Carlos Jahno. sive liner notes. You'll enming his compositions with great jars and Brazilian musicians ing Stan Getz, ioao and Astrwil Gilberto, Ella Regina, and many joy the song selection notes ew Z.118111r: ',.rai wssin —F7--.00/ and insightful interviews 111111111 REBUS .111:11.0•ZOINS " • 800 • ASK • TOWER from Oscar Castro-Neves and Creed Taylor as well as rio atlantica hotel the above mentioned tribute Your home away from home. by Cabral. There's also an No other hotel in Rio de Janeiro better essay written by Gene Lees understands the needs of the American travelkr than the Rio Atlantica Hotel An and a rare 1974 interview English speaking staff an inspiring view with Jobim himself. There is of the Tropical Atlantic with your choice of well-appointed rooms and so much here, in fact, that it spacious suites to make your visit to will leave you wondering if Rio de Janeiro truly memorable. And you're in the center of it all... the music accompanies the Copacabana! WhenyouYe ha/fa world awry, its book. Far re.serviniortA

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And there's a Jobim tune toyunctuate each paragraph. "Aguas de Marco" with Elis NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

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Casa de Prostituicdo de Anal's Nin — Based on Angs Nin's erotic short stories. Directed by Ticiana Studart. In Rio. Confissoes de uma Gordinha — Inspired by Roberto Carlos' anthem to the chubby woman "Coisa Bonita", it shows the dreams of a fat woman. In Rio. Corpo a Corpo — Adman reminisces and faces his own interior ghosts. Written by Oduvaldo Viana Filho. With Zecarlos Machado. In Sao Paulo. Intensa Magia — Maria Adelaide Amaral's play about a family's public washing of dirty laundry during an engagement party. Rosa Maria Murtinho stars. Paulo Cezar Saraceni directs. In Rio. 0 Livro de Jo — Based on the Bible, it discusses divine intervention and God's power. Directed by Antonio Atraujo. In Sao Paulo.

Felipe Camargo and Dora Pelegrmo in A Casa de Prostituicao de AnaTs7Wii"

Perola — Written and directed by Mauro Rasi. Comedy. Everything in this middle class family, even the little accidents, ends up in big laughable drama. In Rio. Porca Miseria — Comedy. A family of Italian immigrants devise a plot to get money in order to go back to Italy. Gianni Ratto directs Marcos Caruso and Eliana Rocha. In Sao Paulo. Querida Mamde — The hatelove relationship between daughter and mother. Eva Vilma stars and Jose Wilker directs this Maria Adelaide Amaral's story. In Sao Paulo. Todo Mundo ,Sabe que Todo Mundo Sabe — Another play from prolific and multitalented Miguel Falabella who also directs it. A socialite struggles to avoid economic disaster. In Rio. 46

American films just released: The Indian in the Cupboard (A Chave Magica), Babe (Babe, o Porquinho Atrapalhado), Toy Story (Toy Story — Um mundo de aventuras), Seven (Seven, as Sete Crimes Capitais), Blue in the Face (Sem Folego), Night Watch (Na Mira Certa), The Basketball Diaries (Diarios de um Adolescente), Far From Home (Amigos para Sempre), No Exit (Morte ao Vivo), Resort to Kill (Preparado para Matar) 0 Convento — Portugal/France — 1995 — Catherine Deneuve stars on Portuguese director Manoel de Oliveira story about a couple trying to prove that Shakespeare was from Spain. La Flor de Mi Secreto (A Flor de Meu Segredo) — Spain — 1995 — Pedro Almodovar directs this comedy about a writer unable to write three novels she has promised her publisher due to a matrimonial crisis. La Halite (0 Odio) — France — 1995 -Twenty four hours in the life of a group of undocumented teenagers living in a Paris suburb. Menino Maluquinho (Little Nutty Boy) — Brazil — 1995 —Based onsharacter created by cartoonist Ziraldo. Maluquinho (The Little Nutty One) goes to his grandfather's farm for a vacation when his parents get divorced. Mario, Maria e Mario (Mario, Maria e Mario) — Italy— 1993— The fall of Russia wrecks havoc at the life of a socialist couple, husband and wife are communist militants. Ettore Scola directed. Mushrooms (Cogumelos: Gostosos de Morrer)—Australia —1994 —Two friendly widows having a hard time to make ends meet are looking for something to do. One decides to steal, the other to take care of a boarding house. Directed by Alan Madden. 0 Quatrilho — Brazil — 1995 — Fabio Barreto directs Patricia Pillar, Gloria Pires, Bruno Campos, and Alexander Paternorst in this dramatic story of two couples against the morals of the time. The action takes place among Italian immigrants in the south of Brazil. Sdbado (Saturday) — Brazil — 1994 — Comedy directed by Ugo Georgetti with Otavio Augusto and Maria Padilha. A group of friends and what happens on a weekend in a Sao Paulo old building. Terra Estrangeira (Foreign Land) — Brazil — 1995 — Brazilian flees to Portugal amid economic turmoil in Brazil during the Collor de Mello presidency. Directed by Walter Salles Jimior with Fernanda Torres and Alexandre Borges.

Fiction

1. 0 Xango de Baker Street JO Soares (Comp. das Letras) 2. 0 Mundo de Sofia — Jostein Gaarder (Comp. das Letras) 3. A Profecia Celestina James Radfield (Objetiva) 4. Manhil, Tarde e No lie Sidney Sheldon (Record) 5. Pelas Portas do Coraciio Zibia Gasparetto (Espaco, Vida & Consciencia) 6. Ensaios Sobre a Cegueira Jose Saramango (Companhia das Letras) 7. Comedias da Vida Privada — 101 Cronicas Escolhidas Luis F. Verissimo (L&PM) 8. Violetas na Janela Vera L. Marinzeck de Carvalho (Petit) 9. 0 Anjo do Adeus — Ignacio de Loyola Brandao (Global) 10. Comedias da Vida Pdblica — 266 Cronicas Datadas Luis F. Verissimo (L&PM)

Nonfiction 1. A Estrela Solitdria — Um Brasileiro Chamado Garrincha — Ruy Castro (Companhia das Letras) 2. Maud, Empresdrio do Imperio — Jorge Caldeira (Companhia das Letras) 3. Paula Isabel Allende (Bertrand Brasil) 4. Voce Pode Curar Sua Vida Louise L. Hay (Comp. das Letras) 5. Salmos - Monica Buonfiglio (Oficina Cultural Esoterica) 6. Homens São de Marie, Mulheres Siio de Venus —John Gray (Rocco) 7. Anjos Cabalisticos Monica Buonfiglio (Oficina Cultural Esoterica) 8. Chato — 0 Re! do Brasil Fernando Moraes (Companhia das Letras) 9. 0 Livro dos Vampiros — A Enciclopedia dos Mortos-Vivos — J. Gordon Melton (Makron Books) 10. 0 Guia dos Curiosos Marcelo Duarte (Companhia das Letras) NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996


SOUNDS OF BRAZIL The traditional and the experimental in Brazilian music are having a chance in the American market these holidays. The avant-gardism can be seen on A irto More ira and Flora Purim's EncounExpelled from Igreja Universal do ters of the Fourth World. The CD was recorded in Amsterdam Reino de Deus (see our November 95 during a recent Fourth World's tour through Europe. Among the cover story) when it was found cuts there are "Pandeiro Solo" and "Canja na that he had AIDS, ex-pastor Mario Cavaca". To know more about the B&W Justino, is answering in kind, with Nos Ba record call (312) 880-5375. reinientti Nos Bastidores do Reino (On the kroja himss After its European success as providers of Kingdom's Backstage) a very Whir Ie roots music, Germany's Network Records is revealing book. For the first time, dropping anchor in the US through New York's someone involved with the inner Stern's. Brazil is one of the countries covered affairs of that Church tells in writby the first series of recordPAUL .O ing what's going on among ings being released in AmeUniversal's leaders. rica. Nos Bastidores talks about The country is represented drug selling and sex perversion by the samba and chorinho de in the church's hierarchy. The Paulinho da Viola, who is acIgreja Universal has been taking companied by pianist CristOover the world in the last few vao Bastos and cuica player years. "It's not an act of retribuMestre Marcal. Want to know tion," says Justino who now lives more? Call (212) 925-1648. in New York. The 150-page book shows the rise and fall of a talented and poor black youngster who ends up selling his body to get drugs in the streets of New York. Nos Bastidores is being released in Brazil and in the US. For more information you can write to Mario Justino - PO Box 544 - New York, NY 10163.

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Music Brazilian Music in its totality. NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

Samba, bossa nova, chorinho, baido, axe, and more. Merchant Express - (800) 589-5884. PERSONAL

29 year old gay American attorney wants to meet in-shape Brazilian men under 40. I'm 6'2", 210 lbs, and work out regularly. You be Brazilian, goodlooking and in-shape. Falo Portugues. (213) 663-5221 American businessman has lived in your countr_\ and loves your people, music, & dance. Desires friendship/romance with Brasileira between 22-30 years. Interests include yoga, health food, nature. Please write R.B. 1106 2nd St. #268, Encinitas, CA 92024. American Doctor, male, seeks Brazilian lady, 18-32 for fun and romance. Must be pretty. I'm very handsome and look Brazilian. (213) 293-8909. Los Angeles area. American Jewish man, 36, sincere, deep, fun, active, doctor, seeks Jewish lady under 35 with brown eyes and long dark hair, in Los Angeles area. (310) 2713168. American Plastic Surgeon. Internationally recognized. Attractive. Athletic. Has toured Brazil. Seeks intelligent, athletic, attractive, non smoking Brasileira who likes skin diving, aerobics, surfing, outdoor photography & cooking. Ages 22-30. Send photos and C.V. to G.M. - 2318 Washington - Great Bend, Kansas, 67530 - U.S.A. Americana 31, handsome, secure, seeks Brazilian lady 22-32 for lasting relationship. Eu falo Portugues. Send letter and photo to Brad, 5510 Sepulveda Blvd., Apt. #212, Sherman Oaks, CA 91411. Americano, 44, honest, romantic, seeks Brasileira 27-40. Likes your people, music, and dance. Falo Portugues. Letter & photo to Douglas, 18 Grand Rio Cir., Sacramento, CA 95826 Brasileiro, 31, busco outros rapazes 20-35 para am izade, etc. Los Angeles area. (213) 9698329 Brazilian guy, 27, looking for friendship, collects post cards. Fabio — PO Box 9091, L.I.C. NY 11103-0904 French American guy looking for friendship with Brazilian men

FEIRA LIVRE RATES: 500 a word. Phone is one word. DISCOUNTS: For 3 times deduct 5%. for 6 times deduct 10%. for 12 times deduct 15%. POLICY: All ads to be prepaid. Ads are accepted at our discretion. Sorry, no credit card at this time. Your canceled check is your receipt. Please, include address and phone number, which will be kept confidential. DEADLINE: The 15th of the month. Late material will be held for the following month if appropriate. TO PLACE AD: Send ad with check or money order to: News from Brazil P.O. Box 42536 Los Angeles, CA 90050-0536. 35-55. (310) 659-3139 Or write: Occupant, P.O. Box 16655, Beverly Hills, CA 90209 Good-looking gay A erican man looking for friend hip with Brazilian men 18-30. I ma successful 31 year old G looking for fun and roma ce with good-looking men. (4 8) 2362034 — Peter; 4960 lmaden Exp. #179; San Jose, C 95118 Handsome gay Amen an man wants gay male pen-pals from Rio and Brazil. Write Roberto1086 Post St. #309, Sn Francisco, CA 94109 USA L.A./Ph.D. - Loyal, fu supportive seeks smart, I young Brazilian lady a 35 for love and compan Write letter with photo t Martin - 1107 Fair Oak South Pasadena, CA 9 call (213) 223-6100.

ny and yal and e 28 to onship. Dr. G. #184 030 or

Single American mal seeks Brazilian women, 18-3 years old. I am 34 years old, ljealthy, attractive, romantic. Ple e send note & photo to: 2440 16th St. #179, San Francisco, CA 94103. Sophisticated, attractive lady with Scandinavian art degree seeks professional, attractive 4758 man — non-American, non smoker—for love eventual marriage. (213) 851-2767 Sou gay americano, 28 6'2", 190, branco. Procuro br ileiro bonito para amizade el mais. Morava no Brasil e agor tenho saudades. (213) 660-261 [122] Successful, wealthy, good-looking marriage-minded ro antic American comedy writ r, 30, speaks a little Portuguese seeks slender, intelligent, educated, English-speaking, nonsmoking, nonreligious brasileira in 1, A area. Note & photo to: Occupant, P.O. Box 3757, Santa Monica. CA 90408

Voce a viu? Imagino que ela morena, alta, saudavel, sensivel e confiante, com 32-50 anos. Sou americano (51 anos, 1.73 m., delgado, branco, divorciado, sem filhos, um gato). Ofereco am izade atenciosa, correspondida, teal, e sem fumaca (ndo obstante o fogo interior). Procuro a minha alma gemea para aventura, sorriso e paixdo. Para uma relacAo profunda. Para sempre. Voce a viu? Teal Lake, PO Box 522, Mountain View, California 940420522 USA. PRINTING

Pyramid Press offers: typesetting, copy-editing, custom desktop publishing. Low rates! Call for estimate (310) 518-3425. PSYCHOTHERAPY

Emotional & psychological help - Elizabete Almeida MFCC licensed psychotherapist. English/Portuguese. Reasonable rates. (310) 281-7536. [127] REAL ESTATE

BUYING, SELLING, RENTING - Let me assist you with all your Real Estate needs. Anywhere in the U.S. through National Referral Services. Call Debora Jackson at (703) 5480700. McEnearney Associates Inc. [122] SERVICES

Silent's — Fine line tattoos. By appointment only. (310) 8428628, (310) 843-1377 or (619) 965-9655 [129] TRANSLATION & INTERP.

J. Henry Phillips, simultaneous interpreter and ATA accredited Portuguese translator: (512) 8341941. Fax: (512) 834-0070.

19


TV & RADIO COAST To. COAST TV Beautiful Brazil - Every Saturday, 9 PM (East Coast -I-tale) with Goulart de Andrade on the International Channel (In Portuguese with English subtitles)

SHORT WAVE RADIO Radio Nacional da Ama,zonia - Daily, especially on evenings and early morning 6,180 & 11,780 Khz Radiobras -All universal time - From 12 noon to 1:20 PM, in English and from 1:30 PM to 2:50 PM, in Spanish - 15,445 Khz

10:30 PM - Katia Moraes at Bokaos (310) 659-1200

BERKELEY, CAL. 9:00 PM - Carla() & guitar at Nina 's

Sevilla

FORT LAUDERDALE, FLOR. 8:00 PM - Roberto Costa Extravaganza at Up in Smoke - (305) 489-1122

THURSDAY 11 BERKELEY, CAL 9:00 PM - Carla° & guitar at Nino's

LOS ANGELES

LOS ANGELES

9:00 PM - Pagoda with Josias at Zabumba

9:00 PM - Pagode with Josias am Zabumba

SANTA MONICA, CAL. 10:00 PM - Marcos Santos at 14

SANTA MONICA, CAL. 10:00 PM - Katia Moraes at 14 BeloFRIDAY 12 CENTURY CITY, CAL.

Below

FRIDAY 5 CENTURY CITY, CAL 8:00 PM - The Girls from Ipanema at The Century Club

LOS ANGELES 9:00 PM-Oba Oba with Max and Swing Brasil at Zabumba

8:00 PM - The Girls from Ipanema The Century Club

STUDIO CITY, CAL.

9:30 PM - Katia Moraes at La Ve LeE—

LOS ANGELES

ANAHEIM, CAL.

9:00 PM - Oba Oba with Max and Swin— Brasil at Zabumba

7:00 PM - Marcos Santos at Ginga Brazil

7:00 PM - Kleber Jorge at Ginga Braz—

SAN FRANCISCO

ANAHEIM, CAL. SAN FRANCISCO

BOSTON

6:00 PM - Marcos Silva & piano at Chambord

6:00 PM - Marcos Silva & piano 2— Chambord

Coracao Brasileiro - Every Sunday, 12:00 noon with Dennis Miller - 88 1 FM - WMBR

SATURDAY 6 SAN FRANCISCO

CHICAGO

9:00 PM - Lisa Silva and Voz do Brasil at Bahia Cabana

SATURDAY 13 MIAMI BEACH

The Sounds of Brazil- Every Saturday, 10 00 pm-Midnight, 95.5 FM, WNUA with Scott Adams Show Brazil - Every Friday, 8:00 am - 11 00 am, 91.5 FM, WMFO with Edna Moreno Brazilian Style of Music Every Friday, 11 00 am - 2:00 pm, 91.5 FM, WMFO with Marlon Cala°

LOS ANGELES Sounds of Brazil - Every Thursday Noon - 2:00 pm, KPFK, 90 7 FM with Sergio Mielniczenko Brazilian Hour - Every Saturday and Sunday, 9:00 am 10 00 am, KXLU, 88.9 FM with Sergio Mielniczenko

MIAMI RADIO Brazilians Love Jazz - Every Sunday, 5:00 pm - 6:00 pm with Gina Martelli - 93 9 Love 94

50

THURSDAY 4 BEVERLY HILLS

ANAHEIM, CAL.

10:00 PM - Orquestra Villa-Lobos witSôdade at Lincoln Theater - (305) 35* 5885

7:00 PM - Sergio 2000 at Ginga Brazil

9:00 PM - Viva Brasil at Bahia Caban—

SUNDAY 7 MIAMI 2:00 PM - Pre-release of book Poemas em Rosario by Maria do Rosario Silva Santos at Via Brazil Restaurant - (305) 764-5960

MIAMI BEACH

SAN FRANCISCO STUDIO CITY, CAL. 9:30 PM - Katia Moraes at Déjà V (818) 547-3947

ANAHEIM, CAL.

7:00 PM - Lois & Zelao at Ginga Bra2—

SUNDAY 14 POMPANO BEACH, FLOR.

5:00 PM - Orquestra Villa-Lobos with Bachianas Brasileiras at Lincoln Theater - (305) 3585885

7:00 PM - Pagode at Panorama - (30! 784-8136

POMPANO BEACH, FLOR.

7:00 PM - SambaLa Samba School the Foothill

7:00 PM - Pagode at Panorama -(305) 784-8136

LONG BEACH, CAL 7:00 PM - SambaLa Samba School at the Foothill

SAN DIEGO, CAL. 3:30 PM - San Diego Samba School at Café Sevilla 10:00 PM - Sambrasil at Café

LONG BEACH, CAL. SAN DIEGO, CAL.

3:30 PM - San Diego Samba School Cafe Sevilla 10:00 PM - Sambrasil at Cafe Sevin—

TUESDAY 16 SHERMAN OAKS, CAL. 8:00 PM - Feijoada Completa Orche tra featuring Katia Moraes at Moonlig Tango (818) 788-2000 NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1.c.


calendar - january 96 - u.s.a.

03 1/4C

0

THURSDAY 18 BERKELEY, CAL. 9:00 PM - Carla() & guitar at Nino's

LOS ANGELES 9:00 PM - Pagode with Josias at

9:00 PM - Pagode with Josias at Zabumba

SANTA MONICA, CAL. 10:00 PM - Katia Moraes at 14 Below

FRIDAY 26 CENTURY CITY, CAL.

Zabumba

SANTA MONICA, CAL. 10:00 PM - Lula &the Afro Brazil Band at 14 Below

FRIDAY 19 CENTURY CITY, CAL. 8:00 PM - The Girls from lpanema at The Century Club

8:00 PM - The Girls from Ipanema at The Century Club

LOS ANGELES 9:00 PM - Oba Oba with Max and Swing Brasil at Zabumba

ANAHEIM, CAL 7:00 PM - Marcos Santos at

LOS ANGELES 9:00 PM - Oba Oba with Max and Swing Brasil at Zabumba 10:15 PM - Katia Moraes at Luna Park (310) 652-0611

ANAHEIM, CAL. 7:00 PM - Lois at Ginga Brazil

Ginga Brazil

SATURDAY 27 BERKELEY 9:00 PM - Carnaval Warm-Up with Fogo na Roupa and Aquarela at Ashkenaz

SAN FRANCISCO

SAN FRANCISCO 6:00 PM - Marcos Silva & piano at Chambord

SATURDAY 20 SAN FRANCISCO 9:00 PM - Spirit Zulu at Bahia Cabana

ANAHEIM, CAL. 7:00 PM - Sergio 2000 at Ginga Brazil

SUNDAY 21 POMPANO BEACH, FLOR. 7:00 PM - Pagode at Panorama -(305) 784-8136

LONG BEACH, CAL. 7:00 PM - SambaLa Samba School at the Foothill

SAN DIEGO, CAL. 3:30 PM - San Diego Samba School at Café Sevilla

10:00 PM - Sambrasil at Café Sevilla

THURSDAY 25 BERKELEY, CAL. 9:00 PM - Carlao & guitar at Nino's

LOS ANGELES

ANAHEIM

Mnga Brazil - 821 N. Euclid, 14) 778-0266

ANGELES

sh.OS Below 1348 14th St., Santa onica - (310) 451-5040 Ife Danssa - 11533 W. Pico West 1_, A - (310) 478-7866 Lothill - 1922 Cherry Ave.ming Beach -(310) 983-9190 NEWS from BRAZIL - JANUARY 1996

9:00 PM - Viva Brasil at Bahia Cabana

LOS ANGELES GI-Ito de Carnaval at

9:00 PM Zabumba

STUDIO CITY, CAL 9:30 PM - Katia Moraes at La Ve Lee

ANAHEIM, CAL 7:00 PM - Lois & Zelao at Ginga Brazil

SUNDAY 28 POMPANO BEACH, FL 7:00 PM - Pagode at Panorama -(305) 784-8136

SAN DIEGO, CAL 3:30 PM - San Diego Samba School at Café Sevilla 10:00 PM - Sambrasil at Cafe Sevilla

LOS ANGELES 9:00 PM - Oba Oba with Max and Swing Brasil at Zabumba

La Ve Lee - 12514 Ventura 131. - Studio City - (818) 980-8158 Century Club - 10131 Constellation B1.-(310) 553-6000 Zabumba -10717 Venice Blvd Culver City -(310) 841-6525

SAN DIEGO Café Sevilla - (619) 233-5979

S FRANCISCO Ashken

an Pablo ;

Ave-Ber . keley (510)525-5054 Bahia Cabana 1600 Marke t St. - S. Fco,'''(415) 861-4202 Chambord - 152 Kearney St, S. Francisco (415) 434-3688 - 1916 Martin L. Ki ng Jr., Berkeley (510) 845 930 Yoshi's - 6039 Clare-mont 3

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BTN (Brazilian TV Network) - 11 00 pm - 1. 00 am, DCI ch. 40, S South ch 51, Adelphia ch. 52, Gold Coast ch. 99

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Brasil corn S - Every Saturday, 9:00 PM with Judith King, 88.3 FM - WBGO Brazil Street Samba - Every Friday, 10:00 PM with Leo Costa &Alberto Lopes -89.9 FM - WKCR Radio Amazonia - Every day, 6:30 PM on shortwave -6 185 MHZ

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S. FRANCISCO Agora Brasil - Every Saturday, 3:00 PM - 4:00 PM, KPFA, 94.0 FM with Elvira Cola and Eric Taller Brasileirinho - Every Wednesday, 9 30 PM, KZSC, 88.1 FM with Renato Frota Canta, Brasil - Every Sunday, 6:00 PM - 8.00 PM KKUP, 91.5 FM, with Xuxu, Maria Jose and David Heyman Programa de Domingo Every Sunday, 1:00 PM -2:00 PM, KSQQ 96.1 FM with Lino Bugatti A Taste of Brazil - Every Sunday, 10.00 PM - 11:00 PM, KKSF, 103.7 with Dick Conte Tropicalia Brasiliana - Every Friday, 8:00 PM - 9:00 PM, KUSF, 90.3 with Raimundo Franco

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Boston Area Books Livraria Plenitude (800) 532-5809

Consulate Consulado G. do Brasil (617) 617-542-4000

Dentist Sylvio P. Lessa (617) 924-1882

Food & Products Aqui Brazil (617) 787-0758 Brasil Brasil (617) 561-6094 Jerry's Cachaca (617) 666-5410

Instruction Braz. & Amer. Lg. Inst. (617) 787-7716 Music Brazil CDs (617) 524-5030

Publications The Brazilian Monthly (617) 566-3651

Restaurants Café Brazil (617) 789-5980 Tropicilia (617) 567-4422 Pampas Churrascaria (617) 661-6613

Chicago Consulate Consulado G. do Brasil (312) 464-0244

Translations Portuguese Lang. Ctr. (312) 276-6683

Los Angeles Accountant Sheila Shanker (310) 836-3436

Airlines yang (800) GO VARIG Vasp (310) 364-0160

Arts & Crafts Bakari Art Studio (213) 938-0523 Folk Creations (310) 693-2844 Uniquely Brazil - Folk (818) 458-1474 Zebi Designs (310) 391-6530

Auto Repair Cosmo Auto Parts (213) 259-9818

Banks Banco do Brasil (213) 688-2996

Catering Joy's Catering (310) 438-3415 Remi Vila Real (818) 280-0061

Clothes Samba (310) 983-9190 Summer Brazil (310) 455-1772

Clubs & Associations Brazil-Cal. Chbr of Corn. (310) 202-6820 52

Centro Cultural Gaucho (213) 256-6548 Clubinho da Crianca (818) 248-3667 MILA - Samba School (310) 391-6098 SambaLi -Esc. de Samba (310) 983-9190

Computer Henriques - Maintenance (818) 767-5153

Consulate Brazilian Consulate (213) 651-2664

Dentists Gilberto Henriques (213) 464-0524 Jose Carlos D. Polido (714) 848-9200

Events Promotion Brazilian Nites Prod. (818) 566-1111 Pegasus - Parties & Ent. (818) 549-0383 Ricardo Gehr (818) 831-0992

Food & Products Brazilian Market (310) 827-9139

Import/Export Brazil "R" US (310) 607-9771 N & R International (909) 626-3656

Instruction Brasil Brasil Cult. Ctr (310) 397-3667 Modern Lang. Center (310) 839-8427

Legal Services Meiojas & Ferraz (310) 360-0901 Music Bossa Nova - Ge6rgia (818) 891-0912 Braz. Jazz /All Occasions (310) 839-3788 Jazz - Richard Samuels (818) 798-5424

Physician Paulo Coharte (310) 285-9670 Decio Rangel (310) 828-7454 Ingrid Rodi - Gynec. (310) 451-8144 Nilson A. Santos (213) 483-3430

Psychother/Counsel. Elizabeth Almeida M.A. (310) 281-7536 Fatima Castro (310) 822-6770 Dr. Jefferson Si (818) 592-0402

Publications News from Brazil (213) 255-4953

Real Estate Cent. 21 - Solon Pereira (310) 633-0787 Cold. Banker-J. Freitas (818) 304-9562

Restaurants & Cafés Bossa Nova (310) 657-5070 Brazilian Tropical (714) 720-1522 By Brazil (310) 787-7520 Café Brasil (310) 837-8957 Ginga Brasil (714) 778-0266 Lulu's Alibi (310) 479-6007 Yolie's Brazilian Steak (714) 251-0722

Zabumba (310) 841-6525

Translation/Interp. Brazilian Int. Affairs (310) 854-5881 Tocantins Communic. (818) 248-3667

Travel/Tours Around the World Tn. (800) 471-6333 Brazil Air (800) 441-8515 Brazil Tours (818) 767-1200 Cheviot Hills Travel (310) 202-6264 F & H - Hotel Repres. (800) 544-5503 ICV Trabel (909) 988-0552

Miami Airlines Transbrasil (800) 872-3153 yang (800) 468-2744 Vasp (800) 732-8277

Banks Banco do Brasil (305) 358-3586 Banco Nacional (305) 372-0100 Banco Real (305) 358-2433 Banespa (305) 358-9167

Clubs & Associations ABFC -As. Bras. da Flor. (407) 354-5200 Cim. Corn. Brasil- EUA (305) 579-9030 ARARA -Amazon. As. (813) 842-3161

Consulate Consulado do Brasil (305) 285-6200

Dentists Arnaldo Souza (305) 595-3238 Hedimo de SO (305) 262-8212

Food & Beverages All Braz. Imp. & Exp. (305) 523-8134 Guarani Esteves (305) 345-1540 Via Brasil (305) 866-7718

Physicians Dr. Jorge Macedo (305) 271-7311 Dr. Mario Sanches (305) 541-7819 Dr. Neri Franzon (305) 776-1412

Publications Florida Review (305) 374-5235

Restaurants Brazilian Tropicana (305) 781-1113 Brazilian Delight (305) 374-0032 Brazilian Pie (305) 866-1001 Cheese Bread House (305) 443-5358 Gula Gula (305) 532-3636

Travel Agencies Brazilian Wave (305) 561-3788 Discover Brazil Tours (800) 524-3666 Euroamerica (305) 358-3003 International Tours (800) 822-1318

Luma Travel (305) 374-8635 Monark Travel (305) 374-5855 New Port Tours (305) 372-5007 Venture Travel (305) 379-7678 Via Brasil Travel (305) 866-7580

New York New Jersey Books Luso-Brazilian Books (800) 727-LUSO

Clubs & Associations Brazilian Ch. of Com. (212) 575-9030 Brazilian Corn. Bureau (212) 916-3200 Brazilian Trade Bur. (212) 224-6280

Consulate Brazilian Gen. Cons. (212) 757-3080

Food & Products Amazonia (718) 204-1521 Coisa Nossa (201) 578-2675 Merchant Express (201) 589-5884

Publications The Brasilians (212) 382-1630 Brazilian Voice (201) 955-1137 Portugal-Brasil News (212) 228-2958 Samba Newsletter (718) 937-0574

Restaurants Brasilia (212) 869-9200 Brazil 2000 (212) 877-7730 Brazilian Pavillion (212) 758-8129 Cabana Carioca (212) 581-8088 Indigo Blues (212) 221-0033 S.O.B. (212) 243-4940

Travel Agencies Barb Tour Service (201) 313-0996 International Sandfly (718) 699-2900 Mystical Destinations (718) 956-1630 Nascente Travel (718) 545-0608 Odyssea Travel Service (212) 826-3019 Santos Dumont Int. (212) 764-5680

San Diego Attorney Ivan Porto (800) 314-4826

Clubs & Associations Clube Bras. San Diego (619) 295-0842 Sunday Night Cl. Brazil (619) 222-6911

Import/Export Brazil Imports (619) 234-3401 Money Remittance Vigo-California (619) 479-V1GO

San Francisco Area Airlines yang (415) 986-5737 Vasp (800) 732-VASP Attorney Ralph Baker (510) 444-8100

Viva Brazil (415) 342-018 Voz do Brazil (415) 586-2276 Musical Instruments Tamborim & Samba (415) 871-2201

Physician Dr. Guilherme Salgado (415) 832-6219

Printing

Auto Nelson Auto Body (415) 255-6717 Mans Auto Body (415) 565-3560 Beauty Salon Bibbo (415) 421-BIBO Carmen's International (415) 433-9441 Dalven Hair Design (415) 433-7646 Neyde's (415) 681-5355 Bike Repair West Bike (415) 241-9125 Clubs B.A.S.O. (415) 661-2788 Bay Area Brasilian Club (415) 334-0106 Computer Micronet (415) 665-1994 Consulate Brazilian Consulate (415) 981-8170 Dance Instruction Aquarela (510) 548-1310 Brazil Culture & Arts (510) 215-8202 Ginga Brasil (510) 428-0698 Escola Nova de Samba (415) 661-4798 Samba do Coracio (415) 826-2588 Samba, Swing & Suer (415) 282-7378

Dental Care Roberto Sales, DDS (510) 451-8315 Food Brazilian Coffee Dist. (415) 648-5966 California Produce (415) 586-6200 HGC Imp. Wholesale (408) 947-8511 Instruction Portuguese - A. Frame (510) 339-9289 Portuguese Lang. Serv. (415) 587-4990 Money Remittance Via Brazil (415) 673-0262 Vigo (415) 863-0218 West Brazil (415) 695-9258 Music Fogo na Roupa (510) 464-5999 Marcos Silva (510) 945-0138 Terra Sul (415) 752-9782

M. C. Printing (510) 268-8967 Publications Brazil Today (510) 223-5190 News from Brazil (415) 648-5966 Restaur./Night Clubs Bahia Cabana (415) 861-4202 Café do Brasil (415) 626-6432 Café Mardi Gras (415) 864-6788 Canto do Brasil (415) 626-8727 Little Rio (415) 441-3344 Michelangelo Café (415) 986-4058 Mozzarela Di-Bufala (415) 346-9888 Nino's (510) 845-9303 Taqueria Goyaz (415) 821-4600 Soccer Sunset Soccer Supply (415) 753-2666

Translation Port. Lang. Services (415) 587-4990 Raimundo Franco (415) 995-2627

Travel Agencies Rio Roma (415) 921-3353 Santini Tours (510) 843-2363 Tropical Travel (510) 655-9904 Tucanos Travel (415) 454-9961

ashington DC Area Airlines Transbrasil (202) 775-9180 Va rig (202) 331-8913 Vasp (202) 822-8277

Banks Banco do Brasil (202) 857-0320 Banco do Est. de S. Paulo (202) 682-1151 Clubs & Associations Braz. Am. Cult. Inst. (202) 362-8334 Inst. of Brazil. Business (202) 994-5205

Embassy Embaixada do Brasil (202) 745-2700 Travel Agencies Intern. Discount Travel (703) 750-0101 Washington Travel (703) 527-6977

NEWS from BRAZIL- JANUARY 1996


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" 53


An excerpt

Is this what you call Brazil? The gentle poverty of the white south and the painful poverty of the black north, the scared beauty of Rio and the power of Sao Paulo, this writer saw this and much more during his two trips to Brazil. MARSHALL BERMAN

NEWS Tom BRAZIL -DECEMBER 1995


hAugust 1993, I made a to Brazil. It was my second visit. The first was in August 1987, a few months after my book, All That Is Solid Melts Into Air, ppeared in a Brazilian edition. To my amazement, the book hit the charts, and all sorts of Brazilians wanted to meet me. The United States Information Agency picked up the tab (it evaluated me as "a counter-cultural figure who is also a deeply patriotic American"). I gave dozens of speeches and interviews; got into a public argument about public space with Oscar Niemeyer, the architect of Brasilia, a city with no public space (NIEMEYER CHAMA BERMAN DE IDIOTA, said a headline in 0 Globo); received many gifts, the most precious from an Umbanda priest, a statue ofZe Pelintra, the Afro-Brazilian Umbanda god of the city and of night in the city (he looks like Sporting Life in Porgy and Bess); and had the time of my life. In the summer of 1993, I got to do Flying Down to Rio, Part Two, this time with my wife, Shellie Sclan. We went as guests of the PT, (Partido dos Trabalhadores, the Workers' Party) and of the city of Porto Alegre. Once more we were locked into a format that devoured every minute and gave us no time to relax or reflect. I had to tell big lies to free us from our handlers for a few hours alone. We didn't have enough time in, Rio or Sao Paulo. When we finally got to go to the beach, up in Bahia, it rained. But we got to see so many vivid environments, and to meet so many smart, sweet people, and even though we saw things from a special perspective, we saw a lot. In Porto Alegre, and in the South as a whole, people are largely blond (even the poorest, most ragged people), descended from German colonists who hacked family farms out of the jungle a century ago. Cities are relatively prosperous, with highly skilled populations (lots of scientists and engineers) plugged into world computer and biotech industries. City governments appear both adept and humane. They have spent money and energy trying to create jobs for the poorest people. Porto Alegre has a high-tech municipal en,visit

T

NEWS from BRAZIL - DECEMBER 1995

Favelas exist everywhere in Brazil, but Porto Alegre's seem almost luxurious compared with Salvador's, where the shacks are folded into precarious gullies, subject to lethal mud slides every time it rains. terprise for waste disposal, recycling and environmental cleanup; when the new system supplanted the old, biohazardous city dump, the men and women who had lived by scavenging in the dump were retrained, incorporated into the civil service, and given skills that will be increasingly marketable. The young mayor, Tarso Genro, and his commissioners, are rightly proud of their work. Porto Alegre reminded us of some progressive provincial cities in America — Minneapolis, for instance — that work wonderfully, but aren't so interesting. Kids who have grown up there are civically proud but spiritually bored; they dream of life in bigger, nastier, messier cities like Rio or Sao Paulo or Paris or New York. In the North, in Bahia, which Southerners patronizingly call "Little Africa," many people are black, descendants of African slaves, but most look like what North Americans would call "Latino." (In the South, most people look like what North Americans would call "white.") In Salvador, Bahia's capital, we saw some of the sharpest polarities in Brazil: a lavish, glitzy tourist sector along the ocean, and an enormous network of shanty towns (the Brazilian word isfavelas) just a little bit inland. Favelas exist everywhere in Brazil, but Porto Alegre's seem almost luxurious compared with Salvador's, where the shacks are folded into precarious gullies, subject to lethal mud slides every time it rains, where you can see the walls shake in the wind and smell the raw sewage that runs in the streets. In Salvador's favelas, the congestion is as intense as any place in New York; there's not an inch to spare. Half a mile away there are splendid

postmodern skyscrapers that belong to national banks or to the Bahia state government, built on lavish suburban plazas that are empty of people and landscaped as if they had all the space in the world. We saw immense, sublime modern ruins, abandoned factories near the waterfront that once kept the city's poor people at work; they reminded me of my old South Bronx. But there was another ruin of a kind that I haven't seen in the United States: abandoned schools and hospitals whose construction was stopped before they could open; broken promises of a welfare state that never worked. What happened? The cost overruns, we heard, were grabbed by giant Construction companies, some private, some public, all profoundly corrupt and untouchable. When we saw the vast, empty state government plaza, I asked why the local poor people didn't try to start a favela here. The answer was, because they'd be shot for treason. Nonchalant fatalism was the attitude that most marked people in the North. Between North and South are Rio nd Sao Paulo, two of the most fasciating cities in the world: Rio, where spectacular mountain/ocean topogaphy, with miles of gorgeous beach, rames an urbanism of colonial palces, plazas and gardens, hundreds of eautiful vernacular Bauhaus and Art Deco apartment blocks, and a flashy, glamorous, vaguely sinister pedestrian treet life; maybe the most alluring ity in the world (perhaps tied with Venice), and one whose citizens often feel drunk and drugged on their allure. Sao Paulo is as different from Rio as Los Angeles is from New York; it contains few landmarks, it's impossible to navigate without a car, but it spreads forever and ever, and contains dozens of cities within it — Italian, Japanese, Korean, Arab, Jewish, industrial, intellectual — you drive past carburetor factories on the way to the art museum. Sao Paulo has a fullfledged industrial sector, and all the paraphernalia of industrialism that have virtually disappeared from the United States. Sao Paulo is the birthplace of the PT and its greatest source of strength today. The party grows out of a militant labor movement, rooted in

55


CIOesque industrial unionism, •but also in white-collar unions. It represents itself as a fusion of the Metal Workers Union from the northern industrial suburbs and the Bank Workers Union downtown. The PT has a program and a world outlook surprisingly close to that of Dissent (Irving Howe would have enjoyed its critique of Latin American Leninism) and about 34 million voters. The PT has won more than 40 percent of the vote in national elections, and Lula. its charismatic leader, who began his career as a metalworker, could well be elected President some day. The PT program evokes European social democracy today: sophisticated about public health, worker safety, environmental destruction (plenty about the Amazon), racism, equality for women. It pointedly does not feature nationalization. When I remarked on this, I was told that a great deal of Brazil's economy is nationalized alincluding some of its most ready rapacious corporations, especially in oil and iron extraction — and that it hasn't done the workers a bit of good. One of the high points of the trip was an encounter with a group of PT shop stewards from the Metal Workers' Union, at union headquarters in Sao Bernardo, an industrial suburb just north of Sao Paulo. They seemed mostly in their upper twenties and thirties, about a third were women, couples held hands and smooched while I spoke, a couple of women nursed babies, older kids ran and jumped around at the other end of the cafeteria where we sat. My Brazilian translator and I spoke for about an hour and a half — too long, I feared — but the shop stewards kept our discussion going till maintenance people came to close the hall. They asked complex questions about multinational companies, computers and robotics, about the destruction of the environment, about modern art and anti-art, about the decline of the American labor movement, about the conflicts within American feminism, about the fall of the USSR. They were as thoughtful and lively a group as I've ever talked to, and I thought Brazil would be lucky — indeed, any country would be lucky

r me o ur)3earsociai E7vcracyto:a ti a public neatth,w°rke s°DistIcitedbo environmint v destruction (plenty „ t ràãisii equai„lYforwom. — if people like them should come to power. One of the things that holds Brazil's radically contrasting scenes together is a system of mass media with a nationwide reach. There are several daily national newspapers, a decent facsimile of the Wall Street Journal, a couple of news magazines in the Time class. But everybody's primal source is the Globo TV network, whose stylish graphics and sexy yet insipid programs are often seen by as much as 90 percent of the households in the country. Globo is the leading producer of telenovelas, Brazilian soap operas, which are broadcast in prime time, feature steamy sex scenes (alas, not in the three hours we saw), and draw a higher proportion of the total audience than anything Americans can imagine. The plots and characters of these programs are said to define the staples of Brazilian conversation; they provide a legitimate pretext for any two strangers to talk. In addition, they are dubbed into Spanish and sold to the entire Spanish-speaking world; Brazilians take pride in this as a symbol of their country's cultural strength. Our driver in Sao Paulo, a student and participant in radical theatres, has

no television set himself and can't stand these shows; but as "a cultural worker among the people," he can't afford to appear ignorant of their latest twists, and the morning papers publish summaries of the coming action every day. Brazil is full of clubs that watch these shows and vote approval or disapproval of their plots. Clubs' letters, some with thousands of signatures, often lead the network to annul marriages, drive companies out of business, afflict their characters with sudden death or miraculously bring them back to life. Two years ago, President Fernando Collor de Mello was impeached by the nation's Congress. But on the day he was brought down, this tremendous event rated only a minor place on page one. Far more prominent, with bigger headlines, amore highly charged story in much greater detail, was the murder of a leading telenovela actress by the actor who played her lover on television. Among the Brazilians we met, people close to the labor movement and the PT were the most optimistic about the future. People who worked for universities, or who worked in the health professions or social services, saw a prospect far more bleak. What upsets people most is the violence. Shellie Sclan: "Everybody seems to live in a favela or behind a fence." All the Brazilians we met felt that in recent years the violence has gotten a lot worse. They fear turf wars and shoot-outs by well-armed drug gangs, but also random stick-ups by coked-up pivetes, twelve-year old street kids with guns, and kidnappings by crooks who have run out of rich victims and democratized their business, working their way down into the lower middle class. Now they grab people who often have little or nothing to give, and sometimes this makes them mad and they kill. (A T-shirt on sale in Porto Alegre' s public market said, "Don 't Kidnap Me, I'm a Professor" — in other words, a person without capital, slim pickings.) They talk about the arrastab, a maneuver where pickup gangs of fifty or a hundred boys descend from Rio's favelas and sweep the beach or the Avenida Atlantica, robbing and stabbing everyone in their path. (Last year the big drug dealers decided these kids


were attracting too much attention and jeopardizing serious business, so they cut off some of their hands.) Everybody felt that the quality of Brazilian life, so informal and mellow not so long ago, has turned brutal and paranoid today. This was most striking in Rio, where several people talked about how they "grew up on the beach" but fear to go there now. Middle-class apartment houses in Rio and Sao Paulo have security systems far more ambitious and elaborate than their equivalents in New York or Chicago. Single-family houses have iron fences that in effect place the house in a cage; although, thanks to the grace and finesse of Brazilian de-, sign, it's easy for householders to forget the iron cages they live in. At the end of July 1993, just before we arrived, the violence exploded. Rio's beautiful domed Baroque Catedral da Candelaria, in the old center of the city, is home to hundreds ofpivetes, who sleep on its porches and benches. Now and then they engage in what North Americans might consider legitimate work, but mostly they live by begging, small-time drug dealing and theft. They Are locked in unending struggles with the Military Police, who suspect them of everything (about half the time they are right), and who are d said to shake them down. One night in July, a group of Military Policemen converged on the church and fired point-blank into the crowd, killing nine kids and wounding dozens more. Why did they do it? Were they punishing the kids for failing to pay protection? Or did they come looking for somebody, but the search got out of hand? Or were they just having drunken fun? Or what? Nobody seems to know. A couple of the cops who were involved have been arrested (many others weren't), but nobody thinks they will do hard time. All the time we were in Brazil, people couldn't stop talking about the mass murder. But their talk went round and round in futility. Nobody thought the state had institutions with enough authority to get to the bottom of it and this juridical bankruptcy evoked their worst memories of military dictatorship, which after all wasn't so long ago. (Brazilians consider 1981 the watershed year

fEWS from BRAZIL - DECEMBER 1995

In Rio and Sao Paulo, single-family houses have iron fences that in effect place the house in a cage; although, thanks to the grace and finesse of Brazilian design, it's easy to forget the iron cages. in the life of their still fragile democracy.) Did "the public" hate those kids so much that it would tolerate mass murder and throw away the rule of law that it had fought so hard to secure? Our friends were afraid of the answer. In Brazil during the summer of 1993, there was much talk about the violence of underclass boys: violence done by them, violence done to them. After a while, I came to feel that there was something weird about this talk. It had a pathos and an emotional intensity that seemed to take on a life of its own. Brazilians ordinarily love conversation, but once a Brazilian started talking in this vein, there wasn't anything I could say, except "Gee, that's terrible." For instance, I couldn't say the United States also has very high levels of violence, and I couldn't say that discourse about violence has all sorts of symbolic weight in American political culture. (I did say it, but even the best listeners wouldn't hear.) But after awhile, I began to see what Brazilian discourse of violence is really all about. One story told to us several times was that the World Bank had delivmmr'r,:mt-77-7-?'e,-"'m777r

Brazilian children are tracked far more rigidly than Americans. One thing that everyone we., met insisted on is that it is impossible to get into college without going to private school.

ered a message to Brazil, saying the 1 country had one-third too many people. We felt this had an apocryphal ring, but we could see the point: there is a solid, thriving industrial economy here, but many millions of Brazilians who are totally outside it, and who have no imaginable way in. The educational system does nothing to help them. Brazilian children are tracked far more rigidly than Americans. One thing that everyone e met insisted on is that it is imposible to get into college without going o private school. But private schools n Brazil offer no scholarships. And . here is no system of community coleges, and nothing like the high school equivalence exam, and no way to move into higher education if you're late getting out of the gate, and no cultural pressure to get poor kids into and through college, and no institutions flor workers' education (though the PT seems to be trying to create some). So a crucial feature of adolescence in Brazil is a very personal encounter ith class barriers that are peremptory atid absolute. And most kids who go t rough this encounter, as all kids must, a e doomed to end up as permanent losers. When Brazilians talk about their dead-end kids, they tell themselves something like this: "Of course they'll do anything, because there isn't anything out there for them." Because they see no signs of anything turning up for these kids, they judge them beyond help or hope, and they see th ir number as bound to grow and gr w. This drama is a story we should knbw all too well. Yet American culture has more second acts, more entrance and exit lanes, more holes to fall into, but also more holes to crawl out of. Our poor people haven't quite reached the tragic pass of poor people in Brazil, a country that feels inexorably split between the favelas and the fences. This article was originally published under the title "Don't Kidnap Me, I'm a Professor" in the book Fighting for the Soul of Brazil edited by Kevin Danaher and Michael Shellemberger, Monthly Review Press, New York


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