Brazzil - Year 7 - Number 118 - October 1995

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Despite the lack of documentation that would illuminate the myth and uncover the real character behind it, Palmares's Zumbi has become the libertarian hero for the Brazilian Black community. Long before worldwide movements of independence, Zumbi was already brandishing his freedom flag. He ended paying with his life the daring of building a Republic where runaway Black slaves as well as oppressed White and Indians could

8 Cover

live free in Alagoas's Serra da Barriga.

Brazil will be celebrating this November the 300th anniversary of death of the black hero. For an extensive coverage of the matter we were lucky to count on three experts on the subject of racism and race relationships in Brazil. They are Robert Nelson Anderson III, who teaches Portuguese at the University of North Carolina; William Javier Nelson, Ph.D.; and Brazilian Black activist Raimundo Bujao.

Their contribution is complemented by an excerpt from Fighting for the Soul of Brazil in which the

CONTENTS

Zumbi's anniversary

37

Too many taxes

Travel

Too lively Pantanal

18 21 Opinion

How to be a democrat

24 Profile

Laughing with Tantan

29 Short story

Rubem Fonseca's Lucia McCartney

36 Nation

16

Culture

Brazilian black movement and its struggle to survive is analyzed. Author John Burdick comments, "Poor and working-class blacks are not immune to the myth of racial democracy, reinforced as it is by schoolbooks, the media and state-sponsored rituals." With this special issue we hope to contribute to the discussion of the Black community role in the development of Brazil and the high price it has been paying in that regard.

R.M.

Doing business in Brazil

Economy

Bard() de Itarare's pen

http://www.earthlink.net/ — brazzil

Cover by Aylan Mello

41 Profile

DEPARTMENTS 6 Rapidinhas 14 Letters 45 Brazilian Notas 46 The Cultural Pulse 47 Por at 49 Classifieds 50 U.S.A. Calendar 52 That's Brazilian

Dionnne Brazil Warwick

43 Music

Women's turn to compose

54 Special

Being Black in Brazil

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5

000iniplunr 'us s In Nt Women who take the train in Maud, a Sao Paulo working-class suburb, have started a campaign with the collection of signatures to get their own separate wagon during rush hour. This is an old gripe to avoid a frequent though little-known sexual 4 abuse on overcrowded train cars and buses.

Leading the movement t 36-year-old Maria de Lourdes do Nascimento: She suffered in silence many cases of men rubbing their bodies against hers in wagons so crowded she wasn't able to see who was doing it. But she couldn't take anymore when leaving the train one morning somebody pointed to her that a man had ejaculated on the back of her pants. Nascimento went crying to her work, told the story to her husband and with his backing started the campaign. In less than two weeks, she and a group of women with similar horror stories, collected more than 5,000 signatures to get the exclusive wagon.

Probably they will never get what they want: sex discrimination is against the law.

The constitution-mandated Plurianual Plan sent to Congress by the Cardoso administration is being compared to the ambitious Plano de Metas (Plan of Goals) from Juscelino Kubitschek, the president who built Brasilia. The new blueprint talks about low inflation, a moderate growth of 4.5% a year, and the expenditure of more than $150 billion. There are no illusions that the plan will be followed to the letter. If 70% is done, say the experts, that will already be a feat. Among Cardoso's proposals from 96 to 99 there are the construction and conclusion of 27 electrical plants, implementation of water and sewer services in 800 municipalities, and reduction in half of child

6

mortality. The proposal also calls for the construction of double lanes in 20,000 km of roads and the almost doubling of telephones in the country from 14 million to 25 million. Cellular phones -would jump from 800,000 to 9 million units.

Games

Hide and seek Denise Ramos, 25, is another good excuse for those willing to spend any free time in front of a computer screen lost in erotic dreams. She is the star of an interactive soccer game in which every goal is rewarded with one less piece of clothing of gorgeous Denise. "But you have to be a real ace to be able to see everything," teases the model.

When she is not taking her bra and panties for computer soccer fans, Ramos studies to become a social worker so she can work with delinquent minors. Denise is also a gifted soccer player herself and one of her dreams is to organize a feminine soccer team and take the group on the road all over Brazil.

He's a mad, mad, mad boy Nobody was prepared for that, not even its creator cartoonist Ziraldo. But

Menino Maluquinho (Crazy Boy), the film, became an instant success drawing to the movie theaters close to 250,00 0 people in five weeks of exhibition, a huge success by Brazilian standards Directed by Helvecio Ratton, Maluquinho has already been sold - to South Korea, Norway and Denmark and 30 other countries

have shown interest in acquiring the rights.

The story — a little boy delights family and friends " with his tricks — is being transformed into a TV series. Released in 1980, the book that inspired the movie has already sold 1.5 million copies.

Ziraldo has just released

Uma Professora Muito Maluquinha (A Very Crazy Teacher). There are plans for another movie which will be based in Professora to be released next July.

Every weekday at 7 PM all Brazilian radio stations leave their usual schedule to join in a national network for a one-hour program called A Voz do Brasil (The Voice of N Brazil) Millions of hands ,1 around the country run to turn off the radio set as soon as a man's voice 1 announces, In Brasilia 7 1PM. On the air once again A Voz do Brasil." The program's audience is around 1%. Lately, some radio stations have been orchestrating a public revolt to get rid of the show which was created in 1935 during the Getolio Vargas's dictatorship. In response, Radiobras president, Maurilio Ferreira Lima not only told that A roz do Brasil is strong as ever but also announced that the program from now on will be heard from coast to coast in the US. Number seven seems to be the charm. After six failed economic plans, the Plano Real is working so well to curb inflation that Brazilians have been talking about inflation zero for the last months of 1995.

Fourteen months since the Piano Real's introduction the monthly inflation has fallen from 40% to a little more than I% and indications that the rate is still dropping. Still on the bright side, in August, Brazil exported $4.5 billion and reached a record number in foreign reserves: $46 billion.

Other indexes, however, are not so rosy. Unemployment is groNNing and stores have been selling less.

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

Fernando Collor de Mello, the impeached Brazilian president, hasn't changed.

He is still explosive, lacks control and intersperses his talk with four letter words. In his first interview since he was forced from power, on December 1992, Collor de Mello protested innocence from the accusations of corruption and talked about his political ambitions. The former president, who is living in Miami, got particularly upset when confronted with an old article published by newspaper Folha de Sao Paulo in which he is said to have, depressive crisis. "E umamerda que uma hosta como essa se tome verdaare," ("It's a crap

that a shit like this becomes the truth.") h answered in his famous irreverent style. Collor cannot be a political candidate until 2002, but he is counting on getting back to politics much sooner thanks to a constitutional reform his allies are trying to arrange.

Good news. A frigorific truck full of meat had fallen from the Tatuape bridge, in Sao Paulo, very close to a favela (shanty town). The news spread like fire and soon the residents of the close to 200 shacks were helping to clean the accidented vehicle from its cargo.

Anticipating the unexpected banquet, some left the fire on and the water boiling for the coming goodies.

Forward looking The city of Rio seems in a rush to improve the uality of life for Cariocas. Mayor Cesar Maio has launch d a 159projects package in mid-September with the, int ntion of making Rio "a welcoming town" in ten years. he $20billion plan is the result of 18 months of debate with the participation of close to 800 community leader . Among the changes to be implemented is the creation f a sole police force to be known as Forca de Ordem PiIbl ca (FOP) uniting the civilian and military police as well as the municipal guard, and a computer-based health system which will allow people to go directly to a hospital with a[ free bed, instead of trying one after the other as it's the case nowadays.

To preventfavelas (shanty towns) from invading green areas and to remove favelas from risky areas, it will be created the forest battalion. Traffic jams will be dealt not only with the construction of new roads but also with new work schedules for commerce and industry. Why this concerted effort to humanize Rio's face. The city's authorities don't hide their desire to see the 2004 Olympics being held there. Folkloric Cesar Maia has recently passed I gislation authorizing taxi drivers to wear bermudas. "H t weather irritates," he argued. "Irritated drivers mistre t passengers."

Behavior

Is that you, Braulio?

To stop the spread of AIDS which continues to be a serious problem in Brazil, the Health Ministry has started a new TV campaign. The series of four ads shows a man (actor Emilio Melo) talking to his penis. The erect creature ready "to go for another one" is always convinced at the end to wear a condom. The campaign has generated laughs and controversy.

Besides the expected opposition from the Catholic church, the 30-second spots have been Getting flak from people called Braulio. It happens that's the name the proud penis has got on TV. Some Brazilians who have Braulio as their first or last name decided to sue the government. One Braulio from Sao Paulo, for example, in one day got 20 calls from people making fun and asking to talk to dr. Penis.

Tonho, Bastiao and Ricardao were other names considered for the male organ, but Braulio ended up winning in an internal plebiscite at Curitiba's (Parana) Master Comunicacao e Marketing, the ad agency responsible for the TV spots. The ad images were complemented by a forro tune composed by Gen ival Lacerda. Take a look at the "Melo do Braulio" lyrics:

Bad news. The Tatuape favela was on fire.

Anticipating the loss of all of their possession, the residents, now with their piece of meat on hand, rushed home. Almost all of the shacks were burned to the ground. "I have no home, but I have the meat," said a resigned woman.

- Come November New York will have the chance to experience the talent of another Arantes do Nascitnento. The first one was Edson, better known as Pele. Now, his daughter, Kelly Cristina, will be presenting herself on another stage: the theater one. Kelly will interpret four of a total of 17 characters from Comfort and Joy, a play written by young playwright Jeffrey Hatchet. It's the story of a woman reaching out to friends after her husband's suicide. -Despite the tragic beginning, it's a comedy full of nonsense," explains Kelly.

From now on, in Terezina, Piaui's capital, -legged creatures used to transport cargo will need a license number branded on their derriere.

"Asinine idea," reacted the City council's vicepresident Deusdeth Nunes. When I heard the news I thought it was just a joke." To what Francisco Gerardo da Silva, the mayor's chief of staff replies. -This is the only way to identify horses and donkeys and force their owners to respect the law and stop causing accidents."

Braulio ĂŠ safado Grosso. metido e velhaco Entra em qualquer buraco Ele e um grande gozador

Braulio is a rogue Rude, conceited, a rascal He gets in any hole He is a good trickster

...Cuida do Braulio Segura o Brat'lio Nao deixa o Braun() numa Fria se meter

...Take care of Braulio Hold to Braulio Don't let Braulio Get into trouble

...E pra quern gosta Cuidado nunca ĂŠ demais Vista a camisinha no Braulio Quando for brincar Ia atras

...And for those who like it There is never too much care Dress Braulio with the condom When you go play behind there

...Menina-moca Nilo se encante corn o dote Se nao vier de capote Manda o Braulio se danar.

...Young lady Don't get excited by the size If he's not wearing an overcoat Send Braulio to hell

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

7

The epic of Palmares — a state founded in the 17th century by runaway slaves, in Northeastern Brazil —.has taken a life of its own.

On November 20, Brazil will be celebrating the 300th anniversary of Palmares's leader, Zumbi. The commemorations will also certainly be used to reflect upon the past and to draw lessons in order to create a more just society.

ROBERT NELSON ANDERSON III * November 20, 1995, marks the three hundredth anniversary of the death of Zumbi, the last leader of the quilombo of Palmares. Palmares was a state founded by maroons, or runaway slaves, which flourished in Northeastern Brazil throughout most of the seventeenth century. This date looms large in the popular imagination, since Zumbi embodies for many Brazilians, especially those of African descent, the strongest resistance to the slave-based colonial regime, and, consequently, the struggle for economic and political justice.

The last leader of Palmares has become more than a secular hero — Zumbi is viewed as an ancestor, an antecedent in what the outsider might see as a fictive lineage. As such, his spirit is inherently divine and immortal, and is thus worthy of respect from those who consider themselves his descendants. This belief is such that the tercentenary commemoration talks about celebrating three hundred years of Zumbi's immortality.

Since the establishment in Brazil of November 20 as National Black Consciousness Day — originally called Zumbi Day -- in 1978, popular discourse has increasingly treated Zumbi not only as the premiere Afro-Brazilian hero but also as having constituted on Brazilian soil an alternative to racism and colonialism. The importance of this anniversary is widely recognized.

Witness that Salvador, the "capital" of Afro-Brazil and currently host to the world's largest pre-Lenten festival in terms of numbers of tourists, chose Zumbi as the theme for Carnaval in 1995. For November events are planned around the country, including pilgrimages to the site of Palmares in the state of Alagoas, with the possible presence of the President of the Republic, and the Movimento Negro Unificado's march on Brasilia. These events will certainly underscore Zumbi of Palmares's mythic status.

Most of what we know about Palmares comes from accounts of the Dutch and Portuguese campaigns against the quilombo between 1640 and 1695. One combination or another of these official documents and eye-witness

accounts by would-be invaders is the basis for subsequent Brazilian historiography and ethnography, each in turn informed by the ideology and intellectual biases of its time. Not surprisingly, most sources have tended to see Palmares as a threat to Portuguese colonial (and, by extension, Brazilian) sovereignty and the quilombo's defeat as basically a patriotic victory.

Yet, even white commentators have lionized the AfroBrazilian state on occasion. The nineteenth century Portuguese republican Joaquim Pedro de Oliveira Martins called Palmares "a black Troy, and its story is an Iliad."

Recent generations of Brazilian leftists have seen in Palmares an alternative social order, as in this statement from Decio Freitas: "These rustic black republics reveal the dream of a social order founded on fraternal equality and for this reason are incorporated into the revolutionary tradition of the Brazilian people."

PALMARES IS BORN From the earliest time in which Africans were brought forcibly to the new world they resisted bondage by flight, or marronage. It seems that from the earliest arrival of Africans in the captaincies of A la,goas and Pernambuco in Portuguese America slaves had fled to the interior. By 1606 a trickle of runaway slaves had made their way to a mountainous, palm-covered region of Pernambuco and there established a mocambo, or maroon settlement, of some reputation.

The area came to be known as Palmares due to the preponderance of wild palms there. The Palmares region, straddling the Serra da Barriga, received a greater number of fugitive slaves in the 1630s thanks in part to the Dutch invasion ofNortheastern Brazil. During the Dutch dominion and after the Portuguese reconquest of Pernambuco, completed in 1654, there were occasional incursions into Palmares, without (=mat success. Of special interest are the expeditions of Bartholomeus Lintz (1640), Roelox Baro (1643), and Johan Blaer and Jiirgens Reijmbach (1645).

At the time of the Lintz expedition, there were two large mocambos and any number of smaller ones. By the time of the Blaer-Reijmbach expedition there was at least one large mocambo; another large mocambo had been abandoned three years earlier. The diary of the expedition describes the large "Palmares": It was surrounded by a double palisade with a spike-lined trough inside. This settlement was half a mile long, its street six feet wide.

There was a swamp on the north side and large felled trees on the south. We might guess that the clearing was for cultivation or for defensive reasons.

There were 220 buildings in the middle of which stood a church, four smithies, and a council house. The population was around 1,500. The ruler of that place, according to the diary, was severely just, punishing sorcerers, as well as those who would flee the mocambo. The king had a house and farms outside the settlement. The narrative also includes description of cultivation and foodstuffs, uses made of the palm, and crafts such as work in straw, gourds, and ceramic.

As was so often the case in the long history of wars against Palmares, the soldiers found the settlement virtually abandoned when they arrived; the Palmarinos would receive advance word of expeditions from their spies in the colonial towns and sugar plantations or engenhos.

RAIDING PALMARES The external history of Palmares from the expulsion of the Dutch in 1654 to the destruction of Palmares in 1694 is one of frequent Portuguese incursions — sometimes more than one a year— and Palmarino reprisals and raids. In the period 1654 to 1678 there were at least 20 expeditions against Palmares. In the internecine peace, Palmarinos traded with their Portuguese neighbors, exchanging foodstuffs and crafts for arms, munitions, and salt. The trade with Palmares was such that many colonials opposed war with the Palmarinos, and in the 1670s there was widespread opinion that establishing peace with

Palmares was the best way to achieve stability in the colony.

Nevertheless, many local planters feared the predatory raids by Palmarinos, real or potential. They also wished to eliminate the lure of escape that Palmares constantly represented to the plantation slaves. In spite of much vacillation, colonial leaders opted again for the destruction of the quilombo, and sent militia captain Fernao Carrilho against them. Carrilho's campaign of 1676-77 was not only one of the more devastating, but it also gave us the most substantial descriptions of Palmares.

The "Relacilo das guerras feitas aos Palmares," from the term of Governor Dom Pedro de Almeida, reported that campaign, mentioning several mocam5os that constituted Palmares: Zambi, Acotirene or Arotirene, Tabocas, Dambrabanga, Subupira, the royal compound of Macaco, Osenga, Amaro, and Andalaquituche. The Portuguese, as was their wont, named at least some of these towns for the title-holders living there: Zambi (probably Zumbi), Andalaquituche, brother of "Zambi," and Aqualtune, the mother of the king. Amaro appears to have been the given name of the resident chief of that mocambo. Subupira was the mocambo of Gana-Zona, brother of the king. Some of the names of the mocambos may have Bantu or indigenous American roots, but it is difficult to determine with certainty.

This chronicle reports that at this time the king of Palmares was called Ganga-Zumba, which allegedly meant -Great Lord." He had a palace, guards, ministers, and other officials. His subjects greeted him by kneeling and "clapping" their hands (probably a hand-snapping gesture also used in West Africa). His royal town was Macaco (Portuguese for 'Monkey'), so named because a monkey was killed at the site. Macaco was fortified by a palisade with embrasures, and around the outside was sewn with iron caltrops and pitfalls.

This mocamho contained more than 1,500 houses.

The other towns were ruled by chiefs who lived in them.

The mocambo of Subupira, for example, was governed by the king's brother. It too was fortified and circled with spiked pitfalls, and it comprised more than 800 houses.

Subupira was where the Palmarinos trained for war.. The architecture of Macaco and Subupira suggests that Palmares was on a constant war-footing.

KINGDOM AS IN AFRICA The religion of the polity was at least superficially Christian, syncretized with African belief and practice.

Macaco had a chapel to which the Palmarinos resorted when in need, containing statues before which they brought petitions. They had chosen a priest, who was Iadino in the sense that he was at least nominally Catholic, spoke Portuguese, perhaps knew prayers, and was otherwise "acculturated."

The chronicle notes, however: that the Palmarinos' practice of Catholicism was not without its irregularities; for example, they tolerated polygamy. Ganga Zumba was said to have three wives, one mulatto and two black women. By the first he had many children, by the others none. The particulars of belief and practice of African origin that must have been present are not stated. Their presence must be inferred from the sense of distortion or imperfection of Catholic practice sensed and relayed by the chronicler.

The appearance of syncretism is reinforced by a parallel phenomenon in dress: The Palmarinos dressed more or less like the colonials, within their capacity to do so.

The description ofthe royal Palmarino envoy to Governor Dom Pedro de Almeida mentions that the visitors wore both animal skins and cloth, had various hair styles, including braids, and bore both bows and arrows and firearms. Engravings and photographs from as late as the nineteenth century reveal a mix of African and European dress among Brazilian slaves.

The descriptions of Palmares suggest that it had the political structure of a paramount chiefdom or kingdom

along Central African lines. The "Relacao" reveals confederation and tributary relations among the Palmarino towns, reinforced by what also appear to be'% lineage or family relations. Historian R. K. Kent's has asserted that "the political system [of Palmares] did not derive from a particular Central African mbdel, but , from several." Sources sometimes describe Palmares v as a "republic" with an "elected" king.

However information is scant on exactly how the" state was governed. Perhaps the "election" of the king' derives from descriptions of chiefly and bureaucratic checks on the power of the king and the lack of hereditary succession, as in some West African states..

It is also possible that the principal chief was elected by the chiefs of the constituent villages or even by popular acclaim, as among the Imbangala of seventeenth-century Angola.

NATIVE POPULATION It was historian Stuart Schwartz who noted the connection between the quilombo of Brazil and the institution by the same name in seventeenth-century Angola (KiMbundu kilombo). In Angola the kilombo was originally a male initiation camp and, by extension, a male military society. During the seventeenth century the territory the Portuguese called Angola was disrupted by factors that included the pressure of the Portuguese slave trade and occupation of the coast, by the collapse of states such as the Kingdom of the Kongo to the north, and by invasions principally from the northeast.

The people of central Angola responded by coalescing under the name Imbangala.' The nascent' Imbangala states, in contrast to prior states hithe area, which crystallized around a royal lineage of divine kings, constituted diverse peoples in a lineageless community. Since these communities existed in a time and place of military conflict and political upheaval, they found in the institution of the kilombo tt unifyin structure suitable for a people under constant milit alert.

It is clear that the wars in Angola were feeding the slave trade to the Northeast of Brazil, a market expanding to recoup the losses during the Dutch occupation.

It is reasonable to assume that many, if not most; of the Palmarinos were descended from slaves from Angola, and many may have been recent arrivals from among the Imbangala. Indeed, the residents ofPalmares called it Angola Janga, supposedly meaning 'Little Angola.'

Yet, whatever the Central African presence in Palmares, it was clearly a multiethnic and mostly Creole community by the second half of the seventeenth century. The population of Palmares in the 1670s appears to have been largely native-born. The balance of the population would have been runaway , slaves, slaves and free persons captured in raids, colonials who had suffered political reversals as a consequence of the Portuguese reconquest of Pernambuco, and poor free immigrants of all racial backgrounds. Preliminary results of the Palmares Excavation Project, led by Pedro Paulo A. Funari and Charles E. Orser Jr., also confirm a strong indigenous American presence, presumably among the women.

Ganga-Zumba was probably the title rather than the proper name of the king or paramount chief of Palmares in the 1670s. However, it probably does not mean "Great Lord," as is often rendered in the Portuguese sources. Nganga a nzumbi was a religious title among the Imbangala whose responsibilities included relieving sufferings caused by an unhappy spirit of a lineage ancestor (nzumbi). In a fundamentally lineageless society like the Imbangala — or the colonial maroon — this official would have great importance, as it would fall to him to appease ancestral spirits cut lose from descendants who would otherwise propitiate them.

Despite the title and apparent official function of 10

We lack Ileadership capable of thinking up bread strategy with impact. It would be more interesting to move all of the Black movement orgarizations to occupy the Serra da Barnga from November 18 to 20 in a symbolic reconstitution of the Quilombo dos Palmares

-

It is with much sadness and many thoughts that I reflect on the passing of thi 3 great historical landmark of the African alaspora, especially for the descendants of Africans in Brazil, who make Brazil the country 'with the second largest black populaticn of the world after Nigena. The example of Zumbi should be serving as a foundation far the social transformations that Brazil urgently needs. UnfortUnately, this,is not occurring, since the groups that should be pointing the way ;till have not managed to :Ind themselves. I would Ake to know now those organizations felt that had the gratifying task of recovering the figure of Zumbi, who until then was considered a wolf man, a phantom, a ghost There was the review,Cicrim da Alvorada, from Sao Paulo, which in its da) (the 1920r,30's) had such magnificent leadership as the great poet and ., riter Eduardo de Oliveira e Oliveira, as well as our ardent and combative Abchas do Nascimento, who is a veritable living archive of our struggle. After the experience of the Brazilian Black•Froht(1930s) and the Black Experimental Theater (194-0.s-50s), it is Mily in the beginning of the decade of the-J.970:s thar the messa the Brazilian negritude returns to the heart of the people„„ We higught several °merits in the discussion of the Black prptilernatican,.fiiiis,decad The creation of National Black Con- „ •sc.ibusnesspay On,'"NOF ir 20 (the day on W hich Zombi was aiseasiiiateditil'69 by Palmares Group ofRic Grande do Sul (1972); the rise f the blo 'afro 116 Aiye (1974); the founding of the Unified BIck Mov eat' Against Racial Discrimination (1978), .hiL several y Ilater came to be known by the aargily*iyiN0,,c!iyi00004 'egro Unificado).

SbthetWetity;fi*e•4(e, et, should reveal more maturity . „ Moog he- goup soaps'aandiSts who . raised and , carried this ". difficult banner ihroughlmich-adversity, This unfottunateFf is not the. case. What we,Cant,aS lain is an immense failure from the north to Co southroftheoc ryto cone together - in-vmhich each ' refer to organizations and to seettito:,11*e"P#tonhta6 periditst,Who proseiffth as spokespersons for the legacy ' of Ztimbi. A series ea events are beingprepared in an, ciiien;Iftati- we should be -together I II!' 'died 'quFtfqr s, exlestirg o4.1nresolife an takiting-,a Significant step- forward in• tlii„ debe,,e:Afkithroodc * still have not managed to make ' recenSid ad present uswith effect iire change' foy":su6kPres:sing'i n*L'Ier' ereyenta'Snihat we can reflect on the, '11-,isiteceSsary.to cite y factS4,kgrcidp b people 1gto de Janeiro was inWashington; 1. DC,:last Ma3! t9Prese,1aya, ithi7RICCproject. From what could ndtwi thhThblicity eathpaigiX, has a fliOdatiietitalbf.cprpitteic' nt.2,The'proposal plans to take as ' largea/nutitheCofBlatk can 4burttS as possible to Rio de Janetrot.Oneirmst thinjc ihnieteial side.•therytrever,;what I conaidet,-.Of fundantetttallt 'Oei is how the intellectual and; „ProfrosionalIeaderqhfthi iii(Oliied with the Black cause can eoxittibntieto our fchlsbot. so 'different from t et, -aw i4,11`fPrOject lacks political' tI :as in " 11 -.1[1 1 ofilinental Congress NEWS from BRAZIL - 0C-OEER 1995

of the Black Peoples of America scheduled for November 21-25 ' at the Latin American Memorial in Sao Paulo. The need for this congress arose in Guatemala in 1991, when I went as a representative of the Executive Coordinating Committee of the National Meeting of Black Organizations (Encontro Nacional de Enticiades Negras — ENEN) to participate in the Second Meeting of the Continental Movement for Indigenous and Popular Resistance.

After that year the movement came to be called the Continental Movement for Indigenous, Black, and Popular Resistance. . ,In nearly four years of preparation and networking, those :responsible for the organization of this important forum have not managed to take off. As apersonAirectly involved and a leader in •this process, I tried irix„best to convincethe organizers that this event should take places in Bahia:. As a follower of the ideals or Umbi,•;1 thinkthaftin.:November 20 all attention should be , °cased on•Serra da Barriga,I,Unitio'dos Palmares, Alagoas —the Oiniensite of Pahriales, wherawe militants, sympathizers and, v, supporters',.all;Shoult:Iipat homage, to Zumbi in person. At the: Sallie time it is'ourielponsibility•to facilitate as much as possible civatiorf,otthe D .• activist community in a neeting.of ature . lOilitiOlt Air this meeting foi.two: ,k'P ;i4 ttnc Otronaeept Onsirah°i;as ,St.fo h tk distribution of staves. • in. Alegoas,,wnic would make it easy for oinigra;:s.ls'll::, ol)T4041 -;117:441e*P"'ilik'6Vitilt rentaarcalr , g ts, 'ILirtiolciln iC-toSnetrir Qtistz gearicalu t*e' 464 enpna beeause:of the economic ieality of aridithe 1 on ftlt Brazilian Black: 6untt 1,1 Pf:6r veinêitth uldpgn.o significant fiCant participation of hich would be, a', 1)c4,74 .5 4Y1 at "61'isw ore, Itt will em witbe lt„ unde ' tund!why Ft. CiAigrer;s o goingto Serra' )''.4xiihi1e it oin:afrOinthe e O:IittiaatiriiPortankttotipsiA he wantitnsat :ationectiYikil'ai.00110 `iif lands lielltaigiti •• ri-k5t*//11,$ §otkil atOfit: iied4iSeAk faratititi •triti.1,,:

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

Bantu origin, the Ganga-Zumba known to history was possibly a native Palmarino of the Ardra Nation, identifiable with the Ewe-speaking Allada state on the Slave Coast.

ZUMBI RAISED BY A PRIEST It would appear then that in mature Palmares, Central African titles and cultural practices prevailed among a heterogeneous Creole population. This seeming incongruity is explained by the very continuity of the kilombolquilombo discussed by Schwartz. The flexibility of the institution of the kilombo as a mechanism for integrating a lineageless community engaged in warfare and self-defense, as was Palmares, explains why some adaptation of the Imbangala institution would thrive Brazil, even if only a minority of Palmares's inhabitants were actually Imbangala.

Whatever the ethnic composition of Palmares at any given time, one can make the case that certain African cultural forms and practices lent themselves to adaptation to the problematic of the New World. In this instance, the Central African solutions of the quilombo served the Brazilian maroons, uniting malungos, or comrades, from diverse ethnic backgrounds, not on the basis of lineage, for the purposes of commodity production, raiding, and self-defense. The persistence and adaptation of African cultural elements such as the quilombo to the Afro-Brazilian Creole context, in fact, demonstrate the continuity of African and Diasporic cultures in the process of New World transculturation.

Zumbi was the war commander of Palmares under Ganga-Zumba. Working from documents not fully cited, Freitas writes that Zumbi was born in 1655. That same year Bras da Rocha Cardoso led the first Portuguese attack on Palmares after the expulsion of the Dutch.

During that otherwise ineffective and unremarkable attack, a baby boy, native to Palmares, was captured and later given to a priest, Antonio Melo, in the coastal town of Porto Calvo. The boy, baptized Francisco by the priest, was raised as the priest's protégé and instructed in Portuguese, Latin, and other subjects. At the age of 15, in 1670, the youth ran away to Palmares, although he later continued to pay the priest secret visits.

MANY MEANINGS OF ZUMBI Francisco reemerges in Governor Dom Pedro de Almeida' s chronicle as "Zambi," the "general das armas" of Palmares. During the campaign led by SergeantMajor Manuel Lopes Galvao in 1675-76, "Zambi" suffered a leg wound that left him with a limp. He is described as a "black man of singular valor, great spirit, and rare constancy. He is the overseer of the rest, because his industry, judgment, and strength to our people l serve as an obstacle, to his an example." A document received by the Conselho Ultramarino, partially cited in Freitas, attributes Palmares's resistance to "militry practice made warlike in the discipline of their captain and general, Zumbi, who made them very handy in the use of all arms, of which they have many and in great qUantity — firearms, as well as swords, lances, and arrowC It is uncertain whether "Zumbi" or "Zambi" was a proper name, title, epithet, or praise name. Nzambi is the usual KiMbundu name for the Supreme Being. The word nzumbi means 'ancestral spirit,' as noted in connection with the religious title nganga a nzumbi above. In Central African culture an nzumbi demands special propitiatory attention, lest it disturb its descendants. For this reason, the KiMbundu nzumbi has often been mistranslated as 'evil spirit.' It is this sense that is usually meant in Brazil by zumbi.

Colloquially in Brazil zumbi also refers to someone with nocturnal inclinations. We could also compare the etymology of the word to the cognate Haitian zombi and all of the meanings and connotations that 'zombie' has acquired in English. It is a matter of speculation how Zumbi came to receive his name, but little doubt his compatriots viewed the name within the paradigm of the 11

cult of ancestors. Perhaps, if Freitas's biography is accurate, Francisco/Zumbi had figuratively returned from the dead when he returned to Palmares. To the sugar plantation owners and colonial officials, however, Zumbi was surely the "evil spirit" of folklore, descending at night to wreak havoc on their patrimony.

Ganga-Zumba was wounded in an attack on the mocantho of Amaro in November 1677, and a number of his sons, nephews, and grandchildren were captured. The destruction wrought by Carrilho must have had an effect. In 1678, Ganga-Zumba, tired of war, accepted terms of peace from the governor of Pernambuco which affirmed his sovereignty over his people on the condition that he return any fugitive slaves and move his people from Palmares to the Cucaft Valley. Sometime thereafter, Ganga-Zumba and his followers relocated to the Cucaft Valley, closer to the watchful eye of the colonial government.

THE WAR AGAINST THE PORTUGUESE However, Ganga-Zumba's treaty did not gain peace. An opposition faction preferred resistance to removal. A ban from Sergeant-Major Manuel Lopes dated 1680 called on "Captain Zumbi" and other rebels to cease their uprising, to adhere to the terms of the treaty, and to join his uncle, GanaZona. The document also affirms that in 1680 Zumbi or his partisans had poisoned their king "Ganazumba." Kent viewed this last act as a "palace revolt."

Clearly Ganga-Zumba's concessions had provoked a rift in Palmares, but the death may also be viewed as the widespread African practice of sanctioned regicide, the ultimate check on royal weakness or abuse. Zumbi, until then a chief and military commander, occupied the capital and was proclaimed supreme chief. He immediately set about prosecuting the defensive war against the Portuguese, ruling Palmares with dictatorial authority. Zumbi thus ruled Palmares from the time of Ganga-Zumba's move to Cucatit to the destruction of Palmares in 1694.

The broken peace eventually precipitated the enlistment of the aid of the "Bush Captain" Domingos Jorge Velho, a field commander charged with fighting Indians and capturing runaway slaves. This bandeirante, or wilderness tamer, from Sao Paulo and his irregulars joined forces raised in the Northeast for an assault on Palmares in 1992. In late 1693, after the defeat the year before, a new combined expeditionary force gathered in Porto Calvo. When they reached the heavy fortification ofthe royal compound ofMacaco, they lay siege for 22 days.

The attackers were building a counterfortification when the Palmarinos began abandoning their positions in order to attack from the rear or in order to flee through a break in the opposing fortification. In the ensuing battle on February 5-6, 1994, Jorge Velho took some 400 prisoners. Another 300 died in battle, while some 200 hurled themselves or were forced from the precipice at the rear of the compound. In all, some 500 Palmarinos were killed and over 500 total were taken prisoner in the campaign.

Zumbi had escaped this fatal battle. He continued to skirmish with the Portuguese for over a year, until one of his aids revealed his location. There Zumbi and a small band of followers were ambushed and killed. His mutilated body was identified in Porto Calvo. Then his head was taken to Recife, the capital of Pernambuco, and displayed as proof against claims of his immortality. Jorge Velho fixed the date of Zumbi's date at November 20, 1695.

LEARNING FROM PALMARES These events recorded and republished in the historical record over the last four centuries provide the epic material of Zumbi of Palmares. Since the seventeenth century additions and variants have become part of the textual tradition.

A case in point is the alternate version of Zumbi's death, that he hurled himself from the precipice during the final assault 12

Blacks here and there WILLIAM JAVIER NELSON PH.D,

The upcoming events commemorating Palmares — the slave republic in the jungles of Brazil — and the centennial of birth of its leader Zumbi point to some dilemmas and contradictions faced by the hemisphere's two largest and best-known ex-slave societies: the United States and Brazil.

As society and general culture, the United States has long ago decided to forego any illusions about common nationality and common allegiance and settled upon the following system: Citizens who are in the "white race" (persons with absolutely no sub-Saharan African ancestry) and the "black race" (persons with varying amounts of sub-Saharan African ancestry) live in separate cultures, with separate marriage patterns and separate patterns of close friendships — a few exceptions occur but not in numbers sufficient to alter basic cultural practices.

Thus, to a North American, "racial" membership has paramount importance, as opposed to national or cultural membership: a "white" Frenchman would, in the U.S., have far more cultural acceptance to North American "whites" than a "black" North American.

Although there are many detrimental results of this system, both for "whites" and for -blacks", the system has had the effect of forging a combative protest mentality among 'blacks". Gains made by North American "blacks" have been engendered by (a) protests made en masse, (b) a high degree of "black consciousness" and (c) a willingness on the part of -blacks- to call attention to "racial" injustice on the part of "whites". Gains among "blacks" have been substantial to the point where, in the present day, many "blacks" have achieved standards of living and benefits much higher than in years past and much higher than many persons of color elsewhere in the hemisphere.

On the other hand, the "democratizing" philosophy common to Brazil (as well as other lbero-American societies) has served to diffuse "black" consciousness.

A mulatto (the term simply does not exist in the United States) in Brazil has many escape hatches which preclude his using a -black" consciousness in order to gain complete acceptance in Brazilian society: (a) he may be fair-skinned and his African ancestry may not be as microscopically evaluated as in the U.S., (b) he will be culturally encouraged to focus on common Brazilian culture, (c) -black- movements imply that separation and alienation have already occurred and (d) there are more varied racial labels and classifications other than simply "black" and "white" to describe people, making it more difficult to organize around simple, absolute labels like in the U.S. Of course, the Brazilian dilemma is caused by the fact that disparaging acts and practices against persons with African ancestry have always been common in NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

Brazil and may even be increasing, with more competition, greater immigration from Europe, omnipresent cultural influence from the United States, and an increasingly strong cultural vector which demands that one be "white". It is getting more difficult to shrug off prejudice and discrimination with a good-natured toss of the head or a conversational observation that "class" and not "race" matters (a standard lbero-American cop-out to racism).

The choices in this dilemma both seem to have unsatisfactory elements: turning the other cheek has never resulted in better treatment from persons with racist philosophies. On the other hand, "black protest" movements, while having potential for material improvement, do little to highlight commonality among people. The material improvement for "blade North Americans has been accompanied by "racial" preoccupation, cultural alienation and a significant amount of tension between "blacks" and "whites".

Brazilians now have the opportunity to forge a society which can combine their own flexibility and emphasis on a common culture with the North American sense of social justice. Whether they can accomplish this remains to be seen. Much depends on how they react and respond to events such as the Palmares commemoration.

Several types of responses present themselves. One response is a negation of the Palmares celebration entirely. Reasons for this could range from not wanting to have anything to do with something "African" to a desire to focus on a "positive" Brazilian future instead of a "negative" past. Another response, of course, is a heightened awareness of race in Brazilian life and a desire to stress African consciousness in Brazil. It is this writer's sincere desire that this admirable second response is combined with an appreciation of African ancestry and culture which is not limited to combating discrimination and prejudice, for the story of Palmares and Zumbi goes beyond a simple reaction against racism.

For over eighty years, Palmares was essentially a self-governing entity which not only held its own in that regard but accommodated persons who were other than African in origin. Using African political constructs, the leaders of Palmares governed thousands of people. In point of contrast, most North Americans connect African (minority) ancestry to "being a victim" and only minimally to highly skilled, administratively advanced, systematically organized behavior.

Even the modern so-called "black African" nations are usually thought of as colonial offshoots which are economic basket cases requiring massive aid from the developed countries. The leaders of , Palmares, operating in difficult situations over three hundred years ago, were heroes, much like the dauntless slaves who later faced even more hopeless odds in the United States. However, owing to circumstance, the people in the quilombos were given an opportunity to govern, organize, socialize and procreate in a system of mature, sustained social life, with little outside assistance and certainly no foreign aid or affirmative action.

Presently both the United States and Brazil abound with persons who are devout racists on the one hand and individuals for whom African ancestry primarily represents an affliction for which people must be made to feel guilty on the other. If the influences of these two sets of people can be neutralized for the time it takes to comprehend the extraordinary feat represented by Zumbi and others, the celebrations of Palmares could signal the start of an era in Brazil in which one vies to be actually thought of as having African ancestry.

NEWS from BRAZIL- OCTOBER 1995

on Macaco to FOR FURTHER avoid capt re, committed to hisREADING: tory by Sebastian da Rocha Pitia Carneiro, Edison. 0 quilombo This romantic episode has been dos Palmares 1630-1695.1st ed. Sao repeated by nu- Paulo: Brasiliense, 1947. 2nd ed.. merous historians Sao Paulo: Brasiliense, 1958. and creative writFreitas, Decio. Palmares, a ers. The veision has its basis qi the guerra dos escravos. 5th ed. Rio de allegations by eye- Janeiro: Graal, 1982. witnesses that a Kent, R. K. "Palmares: An Afrinumber of umcompat iots can State in Brazil." In Maroon Societies Rebel Slave Communities in met a similar fate While the se ond- the Americas. Ed. Richard Price. 1st ed. Garden City, NY: Anchorary sources oincide in great ea- Doubleday, 1973. 2nd ed. Baltimore: sure oftheir d tai I, Johns Hopkins UP, 1979. 170-90. they also co tain Santos, Joel Rufino dos. Zumbi. contradiction sand ambigui i e s Sdo Paulo: Moderna, 1988. among them. Together the primary and secondary sources have woven the text that is the history of Palmares and have contributed to the creation of the epic myth of Zumbi's resistance.

The historiography of Palmares, though, is necessarily elite historiography. We do not know of any surviving accounts of Palmares by Palmarinos. The record of popular oral history is scant although it certainly exists. In the absence of more information, however, it is impossible to say how much the existing works about Palmares owe to oral literature uninformed by erudite scholarship. This historiographic fact means that nowadays, activists, artists, and scholars desirous of avoiding Eurocentric accounts have had to rely on documents written by outsiders.

This has not prevented them from appropriating that elite discourse, and doing so frequently.

While subsequent generations have added interpretations and mythic accretions to this record, they have not necessarily contradicted the Afro-Brazilian character of the community that was Palmares. Indeed, the historical record offers ample evidence within a small corpus that at least suggests Creole Brazilian alternatives, ultimately of African origins, to the colonial reality.

Doubtless we all stand to learn much still from the efforts ofthose in disciplines such as folklore, oral history, an archeology. One can only imagine that archives in B azil, Portugal, and Angola have a wealth of informatio yet to yield. By now, however, the epic of Palmares h s taken a life of its own. As Brazil prepares to celebrate t ree hundred years of Zumbi's immortality, it is good for II of us to reflect on what this epic has to teach us. On No ember 20, when Brazil turns its gaze to the Serra da B riga in commemoration of Zumbi, it will also be looking forward to ways to create a just society, one that can be a true example to multiethnic societies elsewhere. * Professor Robert Anderson teaches Portuguese nd Latin American Studies at the University of Nortili Carolina at Chapel Hill. He is associated with the uke-UNC Program in Latin American studies, which has supported his research on Palmares and the Zumbi Tercentenary.

13

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Tel: (213) 483-2217 NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

15

Taxed to the hilt The tax system in Brazil was devised to give the states a strong saying on the distribution of wealth. The 1988 Constitution however made life almost impossible for the businessman, who is assaulted by a variety of complicated and heavy taxation.

CARLOS EMMANUEL DA FONSECA BARRETO

Fiscal reform is one of the most urgent changes needed in Brazil if the country is serious about recapturing its economic growth. The federal government has plans to simplify and improve the efficiency of tax collection and its redistribution to states and counties. It is hoped that these changes will provide a boost to investment.

Brazil's tax system is one of the most extensive and complex in the world, and as such stands in the way of doing business. At present, the system involves a confusing network of taxes which allows individuals, firms, and politicians to abuse and take advantage of the system. The results are migraines instead of productivity. Perhaps the government of Fernando Henrique Cardoso will take the same swift actions to save Brazil in the same way it reduced inflation from 50% in June 1994 to a today's monthly level of 1.5%.

Brazil's tax system, implemented in the 1988 Constitution, was devised as a way to decentralize federal power in order to prevent the rise of new military regimes. The Constitution was rewritten for the purpose of redistributing federal power to create a system of strong states, each fairly independent from federal ruling. State governors were given sole authority over their respective territories; states were divided into municipalities; congressmen were transformed into middlemen in charge of allocating resources to the states.

Since municipalities were created without much care, without regard to size or population number, they 16

have become a tool of governors in their attempts to increase their power. Today there are 5,000-plus municipalities whose main purpose is to claim a share of the federal incoming tax pot.

Many of these municipalities are entirely unable to support themselves. No one knows the real figures of subsidies that flow in and out of grants, low-interest loans or state-company investments, much of it politically inspired. As Carlos Langoni, a former centralbank governor said, "it is really a question of redistributing power."

The 1988 Constitution requires that the federal government transfer 51% of the collected income tax and IPI (tax on industrialized goods), to state governments. It also establishes that states have full control over the ICMS (tax on circulation of goods and services). It should be noted that the House of Representatives determines the contribution factor, which is then collected by the states themselves. The ICMS generates a fiscal war among the states which compete to grant more and more exemptions to firms and individuals to attract direct investments into their own political backyard.

Today, the total tax burden is at the record level of 3 1.5% of the GDP (Gross Domestic Product), up from 24% a decade ago (1984).

The British magazine The Economist, writes that "evasion in Brazil is a national sport," a consequence of a complex and deficient tax collection system. Brazil has 65 separate taxes, levied by five superposed fiscal instruments: federal, state, local, labor and social welfare. The regulation includes 15 main taxes and 50 different extra small ones. For example, a big company has to keep a minimum of 35 books being 16 for taxes, 10 for accounting, 6 for social purposes and 3 for labor notations.

The cascade of taxes hits all points, from the production to the distribution to the final sale of all goods and services. Businesses for years have pressured for reform, claiming that they actually pay more on domestic taxes than foreign competitors, especially on exports. Marcus Pratini Moraes, head of the Brazilian Exporters Association, says, "It is not coffee, orange juice nor steel but taxes that are Brazil's biggest export, representing $ 8.5 billion on top ofthe $ 43 billion total exported goods in 1994." Exporters are taxed as if they were selling their products in the country, a practice not known in developed nations.

The reform package, which has been sent to ConNEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

substantial cut in costs. Prior to final voting in Congress by four ministers and the Internal Revenue Sergress, a few adjustments may be necessary to the vice governor, includes proposals to reform the fiscal, original package. administrative and bureaucratic systems. Any change Though there is much more to be done, the Fernando would only be implemented on January 1996.

Henrique administration has successfully passed If the changes pass, government payroll expendithrough Congress several major changes during the tures will be cut. The federal government today empast few months. State monopolies of power generaploys 570,000 public servants and has a payroll of $ 1.4 tion, telecommunications, and oil are now more flexbillion. "We are not going to layoff workers," promises ible; the differentiation between companies of domesthe Administration Minister, Bresser Pereira. Changes tic capital anq companies of foreign capital has been would only affect the hiring of future employees. Mr. reduced and financial markets have been opened to Pereira based the proposal on suggestions by David foreign banks and institutions.

Osbone, author of the book Reinventing the State and These reforms are just part of a larger battle against the guru of the American vice-president Al Gore.

Brazil's erraflc economy. Implementation of these rePresently, the government must have the authorizaforms is expected to increase the willingness of foreign tion from the Justice Department in order to inspect a companies to invest in Brazil. For Henrique de Campos citizen's private banking account. The reform will give Meirelles, president of the Brazilian branch of Bank of the IRS increased jurisdiction over such matters. AnBoston, "the investment will triplicate in the next 12 other important amendment deals with the distribution months, reaching $ 6 billion." of funds to states and municipalities. Part of the package is to merge the IPI and the ICMS together under one tax figure, and the Senate (with less direct ties to state self-interest) would set the contribution factor, instead of the House of Representatives.

There is also a call to grant complete tax exemption to agriculture, investment and export activities. Furthermore, a new tax would be added on the sale of oil products and electric power, to be collected and redistributed by the federal government. The states that manage ports would be compensated for the end of the export tax with a temporary relief fund.

The federal government i489 LIMA plans to standardize regulations 649 BU ENOI AI RE as to make more difficult the 649 MONTEVIDEO creation of new municipalities. • Another part of the package is to end excessive spending with FROM I:A0 PAULO (OPEN 1 YEAR) $751?s public servants. In 1995, the waste was reported to reach $ 2 $571 RIO/I:AO PAULO (21 DAYI) billion on "necessary" expenditures such as restaurant 666 IALVADOR/BRAIiLIA vouchers, special health plans, 666 BELO HORIZONTE/RECIFE and government subsidized i722 cars.

PORTO ALEGRE There are other proposals being sent to Congress which intend to improve the tax system using innovative approaches. One of the most interesting proposals sent to Congress is the creation of a single flat tax on consumption rather than on income. The PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE implementation of a single tax system is purported to allow for a complete simplification of government bureaucracy, an end to fiscal corruption, and a

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NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

17

Laughter baron

society held nobility in high esteem. It was his way of ridiculing the concept. It was this rebellion and refusal to conform that made him a personality of sorts.

More than a great humorist, the Baron was a relentless critic of politicians and political activity in Brazil.

He was of Italian descent, but also Uruguayan, American and Charrua Indian blood ran through his veins.

Hence his claim of being a 'sort of League of Nations.'

His early childhood, however, was less than happy. His mother committed suicide when he was two, and his father, due to firm political beliefs and radical activities, had lost his left arm in a political skirmish. And he ended up being raised by aunts, at the estate of his grandparents, in Uruguay.

At age seven, he was placed in a Jesuit boarding school, Ginasio Nossa Senhora da Conceicao, in Sao Leopoldo. It was there that, as a student he began to exercise his talent for journalism and criticism. The target then was the figure of authority represented by a stern rector. The young Baron founded a newspaper entitled '0 Capim Seco'(The Dry Grass). The year was 1909 and it was Torelly's entry into the world of journalism. He immediately created controversy by comparing the rector to Satan, painting him as the Biblical serpent. The clandestine newspaper lasted one day.

The medical years — In 1912 he enrolled in a pharmaceutical college with the idea of switching later to the Faculty of Medicine in Porto Alegre. At the pharmacy school, the Baron entertained colleagues during examinations by speaking oddities to the professors. It was in Porto Alegre that he truly discovered journalism. In 1917 he became known for his irreverent comments in A Oltana Hora (The Late Hour), a Porto Alegre newspaper.

Brazil is celebrating the centenary of birth of Aparicio ToreIly who is better known as Barao de Itarare. Satirist by nature, neither mere hostility, poverty nor frequent imprisonment were able to break his wit or reduce the sting of his poisoned pen.

MICHAEL DIZ His humor was a given. His penchant for critical attacks innate. Born in Rio Grande do Sul, Aparicio Fernando Brinqueroff ToreIly was one of Brazil's greatest satirical-political commentators, a man who could not resist a good punchline. If alive he would have been 100 years old this year and probably would have had a lot to say about the political climate.

ToreIly had the rare and unusual title of Baron of Itarare, a title he bestowed upon h imself at a time when 18 NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

believe there' s a great difference."

In medicine school he wasn't as brilliant a student This irrev erence got him the job. A year later, once as he was a satirist. He has never graduated. During a his comments had been widely read and discussed all lesson on surgical technique, the professor asked him over Rio, he switched papers to A how he would proceed with a paManha (The Baby Cry). The publicatient who had a cranial traumatism Famous phrases tion had become an independent saand hemorrhage.

"Wash the area, and seeing no The Baron left a legacy of expressions and tirical newspaper that year (1926), bephrases, a lot of which are entrenched in Cafracture, sew and snip," answered rioca humor and speech. Here are some ex- ing used as a vehicle for political satire targeting everyone, including the Torelly. amples of his wit: president.

"You did not mention the first The Bard() de Itarare became a thing you have to do," said the When a poor man eats chicken, one of the two is sick. member of the communist party and professor. "The first thing you have to do is clean the area, shav- Adolescence is that age wherein the youngster in 1947 was elected councilman of the refuses to believe he will become as pathetic as local municipality. Here he thoroughly ing the patients hair." entertained the assembly with his "Not a problem," the student his father. replied, "it just so happens that A bank is an institution that lends money to asides and comments. Once a fellow whomever can prove that he doesn't need it. assemblyman, commenting on the pomy patient is bald!" litical situation at the time said, "I Other teachers who attempted Amnesty is an act whereby governments resolve to defy Torelly's insolence paid to forgive generously the injustices that they don't see things very clearly..."

Torelly couldn't resist and predearly. A professor once showed themselves committed. scribed the colleague, "two drops for him a large bone and asked two minutes..."

Torelly, which bone it was. Re- Love should be free, of above all, expenses.

Successive imprisonment, beatings sponding to his student's igno- From where you least expect, that's from whence and humiliations could not dissuade rance, the professor said, "Allow nothing comes.

Torelly from exercising his wit. When me to introduce you: this is a feIt's easier to catch a liar than a cripple (Brazilian asked about politician Filinto Muller's mur." He stuck the bone out. proverb). Especially if the liar is a cripple! position (during interrogation) he reTorelly responded in a solemn The pauper, when he digs into his pockets, plied, "three fingers below a dog's tone. tail(ass)."

"Pleased to meet you," he said only pulls out five fingers.

The more I learn about men, the more [love Old and sickly his wit could still and feigned a hand shake. women. not be broken. Prior to his death, he In 1919 during vacations, he went with a friend to the city. Upon took the opportunity to abandon The liver is very bad for your drinking. crossing a certain avenue, he observed his studies. A year earlier he had an approaching fastfounded his first humor newspapaced bus. His comment per, 0 Chico. In 1921 he was subsequently became a married to Alzira Alves, starting a Carioca (from Rio) joke, three-year-long matrimony that "Watch out, he's seen us would end with Torelly running already..." He died in off with a lady in the local social Laranjeiras on November circle.

27, 1971. Like a lot of He subsequently founded a semisunderstood political ries of newspapers, all of which satirists, he was poor and later folded. He would arrive at a lonely. city, start a newspaper, then dediTorelly is considered cate himself completely to the the patron of satirical humiliating of the local Mayor, journals in Brazil. He was and other politicians. a pioneer of a style of The middle years —In 1925, humor, best described as he arrived in Rio, but in a few anarchic.

He was controdays, he had spent all the money versial in the extreme and he had brought. He made his way extremely outspoken. to the editorial chambers of 0 Few were on par with the Glob°, a recently founded newsBaron. paper. Unemployed, Torelly "The problem with the waited for Irineu Marinho, the government," he would paper's founder to approach. He muse, "is not failure to then explained his predicament. persist, but persisting in He was told that no vacancies exfailure." isted, but was asked what he could Torelly as seem do. In his usual manner he reby others plied, "anything from sweeping The Baron is a charto running a newspaper. I don't NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

19

zcter in Graciliano Ramos's Memorius do Carcere. Ramos - became acquainted with the Baron whilst in jail in 1937. !. The Baron was serving an 18-month sentence for Communist activities. Ramos recounts their humorous en': courter in the first volume of his book. It was morning, Ramos was taking a shower. He suddenly noticed that somebody was reci:ing something. He realized that it was tne opening lines of the Lusiadas, the epic poem written

by Portuguese poet Cambes: As armas e os bardes assitalados...

The water gushed down furiously, men scrubbed and soaped themselves, guards spoke in the entrance. Amongst all this, the soliloquist continued and rose above the din, finally his voice dominated the shower hall. The orator e continued: "And also those glorious memories, of kings that expanded our faith, the empire, the urethra..." Ramos burst into laughter Whilst getting dry, Ramos met the Earon, whom he describes as short, bearded, with a pointy - hose„ It was during their stay at Frei Caneca Presidio in 1937, t. that the Baron told Ramos that he in:ended to write his autobiography and that he had himself the title of Baron of Itarare. Ramos re"'plied that it was a good idea 4221 Wilshire and that it would invoke an 'opportune social uproar.'

Sadly the autobiography was never written. The Baron's time was always consumed with starting and closirg r ewspapers, as well as regular 'internships' in prison.

Newspapers he founded or worked in included: 0Maneca, 0 Chico (Porto Alegi e) — 1918 Correio do Sul, Dicirio do Cgmrierczo (Bage) Reacao (San Gabriel) — L-1924 0 Globo, A Manhcl, Man, 0 Homem byre — After 1925 Jor nal do Povo, .4 Voz do Trabolhador, A Tribuna A Marcha (Sao Paulo)

The baron on women Women of a certain age don't have a certain age.

To women, old men exist only in two categories: the intolerable and the rich.

There are women that are like roads: they have dangerous curves.

Friendship amongst women is merely a suspension of hostilities.

There is a group of men who believe and state that women don't think. A false belief. Women think and often very well, especially when orchestrating a plan of action to obtain cash from men who think that they don't think.

A woman is more tormented with a secret than with an ailment.

A woman should marry. A man not.

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NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

Democracy is more than just electing officials. It requires a commitment to justice, honesty, and law from government and governed. Will the Brazilian young democracy ever learn what it takes to be a free society?

WILSON VELLOSO I submit that the unraveling of the Soviet bloc blew the Third World out of existence. The only survivors, now are the First World (the industrialized countries), and "all others." The latter have become in fact the Second World. Including the former Soviet Union and all the other formers. In mere mathematical terms, we hardly could have a First and a Third.

The problem with labels, though, is that in most cases they cover too many diverse quantities. Or not enough. For instance, the coming apart of Eastern Europe point out to capitalism as a better system, the system that delivers butter and guns. Butter, yachts and caviar to the rich. Guns to the poor desperadoes so that they can rob and kill for a living. (Also guns for the fortunate members of the NRA —National Rifle Association — and the armed forces.)

Also, capitalism has been equated with democracy.

Cuba is not a democracy because it clings to a demo& socialist model. But are democracy and capitalism the same everywhere? Are Sweden and Switzerland (to pick only countries with an S) as democratic and as capitalistic as Brazil, for instance?

Since they freed themselves from under the wall that had collapsed over them, Brazilians are very proud of their new democratic form of government. Yet the majority of the population believes that having a democracy means almost exclusively electing members of governmerit at the county, state, and national levels, every so many years.

Sure, having the vote is fundamental for a democratic way of life. Isn't for that reason that military and civilian dictdtors suppress elections, before anything else?

But democracy is much more than voting. It is the rule of law, the law applied equally to all. It is honesty of the rulers (not to stick their fingers in the public till) and of the governed (pay taxes faithfully, not to hide or forge income documents, not to obtain privileges they NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

21

are not entitled to, not to bribe civil servants, not seek ways of bypassing legal obligations, returning books to the library, paying the proper fare in the bus, etc).

Economic democracy is a big item in many First World societies. The awful imbalance between poor and rich, with a system often taking from the poor to give to the rich (who grow richer while the poor grow poorer), is a sad reality in many countries proud of being called democracies. Like the US. Democracy is also the rule of many laws, such as the penal code, providing that violators of a statute are punished accordingly, without privileges. It goes as far down as to apply to traffic violations. If a citizen breaks a "lower" law often he/she is given an alternative: going to jail or paying a fine. So that the poor go to jail more often than the rich. Is that democratic, is it fair, moral, ethical? Is it decent?

About ten years ago I lived several months in Brazil (long enough to lease a house) and was appalled with the general populace's attitudes in face of corruption. In the ministries,'some palm greasing was openly solicited. All? over, little would move without some type of per$ua$ion.

So I took to flirting with the female clerks in the Post Office because a bit flattery went a farther way than having the right change or standing in line. They would willingly expedite matters when called "Princess," or "Miss Brazil." Unfortunately, not even they could have the Empresa Brasileira de Correios e Telegrafos (EBCT) — the corporation-in-name-only that runs the mails and the telegraph — have gummed stamps rather the unhygienic eyesores that were the slopped glue pots, messed around and full of flies.

The "official explanation" was that in a hu mid tropical country gummed stamps stick together. They have never been to Barbados or Sri Lanka and think there is no glue strong enough to withstand dampness. By and large Brazilian are so well-natured that envelope-makers sell them ungummed. Saving on glue must be an important item of their revenues.

On an once-every-leap-year Brasilia bus to the Lago Sul —the Southern Bank of the Paranod Lake, known to local gringos as Paranoia Dam —, I engaged a fellow traveler in conversation.

We got so chummy that he invited me to have dinner at his place. So chummy that I risked a criticism of financier Mario Garnero, whose investment company had left thousands of savers holding empty bags. My newspaper carried a story about Garnero's villa on the French Riviera. I expressed disgust at such behavior.

My would-be-host froze and said: "Don't be so harsh on Dr. Garnero, young man! He did what anybody would do in his place."" "He robbed his customers," I pointed out. "Perhaps, seu 22

mogo, but if I were in a place where I could make a pile of extra cash, easy, without danger, if I knew the right guys, and used a bit of oil on the hinges, I would take advantage of it. Wouldn't you?" "No, I wouldn't," I said, now ready to forfeit my free dinner. "He's a thief. Thieves go to jail, where they belong."

He made a wry face and shut up. End of story.

There wasn't even a boa noite.

Many Brazilians are writing to me that things are going bad in the country, lots of unemployment and crime, many bankruptcies, because the Cardoso government is trying a few measures of economic and financial restrain and discipline. The president wants to stop the Brazilian Treasury's bleeding of the hard-earned hard currency, thanks to all he sumptuary imports and middle-class inasses with an extra real dando sopa (idle) traveling abroad en masse. Few understand it because they also are middle class like my bus passenger of 10 years ago. They were living quite comfortably with inflation, which was the biggest industry in Brazil. Now they miss their overnight dividends, accrued daily to the high-interest accounts. Never mind the general welfare of the National economy. So they tend to dislike Cardoso. Even some charge he has "sold to the enemy", whatever that may mean, now that the Commies have stopped bashing the IMF. A. A few correspondents even see similitudes between the present President and his predecessor Fernando Collor. They joke but are deadly serious: "What we need now is a constitutional amendment making it illegal for men called Fernando to run for the presidency. Specially if their last name begins with a C." I sigh and smile wanly, almost yellow. 0, my Brazilian Democracy, will you ever learn?

0, well, Brazilians love the US so much that they copy, imitate, ape all things American.

And in America, in a Senate and a House of Representatives top-heavy with Ph.D's and experienced politicians, many support a "balanced budget amendment." They believe they can legislate virtue. They forget that past legislators have ended up with egg on their faces when tried it with the famous/infamous Eighteenth Amendment. It spawned 13 years (1910-33) of misery and crime, large-scale smuggling, speakeasies, bootleggers, gangsters and gang-warfare, all under the name of Prohibition.

For Brazilian true democrats, a required and urgent reading should be Barbara Tuchman's The March of Folly. From the Trojan War to the Vietnam War, she tells it like it was. And is.

• NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

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Serious clown Tantan is not your typical clown. Like his colleagues, he dresses funny, paints his face and tells jokes.

But he is also a missionary for ecology and the harmony among all living creatures.

LIANA ALAGEMOVITZ

"Hoje tern espetaculo? Tern sim, senhar (Is there a show today? Yes, mister.) For generations these have been the words by which the arrival of the circus is announced in big and small towns all over Brazil. Most Brazilian adults will remember all the enchantment conjured by these sentences which talk about clowns, story tellers, magic, dreams and pure joy.

For three years, Guilherme Barcellos, a young clown from Sobradinho, a small satellite city of Brazil's capital Brasilia, has been spreading this same magic in Southern California. His call for creating tricks and provoking laughter has started 13 years ago however while still in Brazil.

Different from most Brazilian immigrants who arrive in America with a dream of restarting their lives, in his baggage Barcellos brought also something very special: a clown's soul together with zest for life, and a simple and optimistic way of seeing life through the eyes of Tantan, his alterego when dressed in clown's clothes.

For those who do not know Tantan yet, he is a very likable young clown. : ("I'm nine years old," he reveals.) In reality Tantan is more than just a character portrayed by the Brazilian actor, he represents a little of the soul of his creator.

Like other clowns Tantan is silly, 24

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

funny, clumsy, and loves to entertain kids and adults. But, besides that, Tantan — The Crazy Clown has also his philosophical and ecological side. "Planet Earth is our mother," he always reminds his audience.

Tantan sometimes does his numbers wearing extravagant and colorful clothes and exuberant headdresses. Other times, however, he chooses a softer color—mainly purple — for his clothes and has a message more in tune with the New Age philosophy.

"We clowns, animals, plants, and human beings," reminds Tantan, "are all brothers and sisters. We are part of something much bigger. Our diversity is what makes us unique parts of the universe."

For Guilherme, who is always pintando o sete (painting the number seven literally), doing all sorts of tricks, in Portuguese, English and Spanish, Tantan's relevance comes from the fact that he teaches that all folks are equal. "Tantan is innocent and full of love to give. He's been playing with cultural issues, in this case, with the Latino culture," explains Barcellos.

There's plenty of culture and international experience in his bag of tricks. The clown has been to Xingu (an Indian reservation in the Brazilian Amazon) and there he has learned "some of the harmonic and simple way of life of the Kamaiura people." He has also been to England where he studied at the world's oldest children's theater, London's The Unicorn.

Guilherme has been presenting his show Sister Moon, Brother Sun in schools, shopping centers, libraries, and bookstores all over Southern California. The show uses music, dance, puppets, original masks from the Kamaiura Indians, a tribe from the Amazon forest, and requires participation from the public. It is the story of how the sun and the moon were created and it is full of the mystical aspects of creation and the relationship among all living creatures.

Barcellos, who is working on his Master's degree in spiritual psychology at the University of Santa Monica, also teaches magic and works as a voice-over actor, dubbing movies and cartoon into Portuguese for the Brazilian TV. He has already dubbed Jerry Seinfeld, Top Cat (Manda-Chuva in the Brazilian version) and many others.

You can contact his world of magic and fun by dialing (818) 549-0383.

• NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

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Centro Espirita Dr. Humberto de Campos: (415) 695-1818 Ou escreva para o seguinte endereco: Centro Espirita Dr. Humberto de Campos 236 West Portal Ave. #401 San Francisco, CA 94127 NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

Leda Maas(*) Two waiters arrive with trays, ice buckets, bottles. What a food! "I'm completely drunk.", "Then you stop a little because what we are going to do now must be done in full conscience." Jose Roberto takes me to bed. He makes me crazy, melts me, and my heart keeps beating in my chest, my throat, my belly, how nice, how nice, how nice, how nice, how nice!

RUBEM FONSECA Abro o olho: isa. bandeja. torrada. banana. cafe. lcite. manteiga. Fico espreguicando. Isa quer que cu coma. Quer que cu deite cedo. Pensa que sou crianca.

Depois que o marido da Isa foi cmbora ela licou me marcando ainda mais. !sit diz que ele °ha. ma.; cu duvido. Primeiro. ela n5o era casada coin o marido dela. Segundo. acho que des nao se gostavam muito: !sit de vez em quando lazia programa. e dc sumia durante Was. Acho que agora sumiu de vcz. Isa espera que o marido voile, a qualquer moment°. As camisas dele estao todas passadinhas na comoda e ela mandou consertar o binOculo, o cara era doido por jOquei. Eta nao sai mais de casa. nem prum programa barra limpa. mas ate agora. nada.

0 Rene me tclefona pra lam urn programa, de noite. Eu digo que esta hem. Tomo nota do endcreco.

Na praia esta toda a turma. Combinam ir pro /um Zum. Eu digo que talvez vá. Se o meu programa acabar cedo cu VOU. Mas cu iião digo nada do meu programa para es. Eles estilo por bra. Dols a dormiram comigo. mas so dois. A genie vai pra boate. danca. bebe e depots eu venho pra casa. E mais camaradagem que outra coisa. A genie brinca, se diverte e pronto.

II 0 apartamento e muito bonito. Neos somos quatro garotas c eles 550 tambem quatro. Nao conheco nenhuma das outras meninas, mas devem ter sido mandadas tambem pelo Rene.

Como ninguem conhece ninguem. comeca aquela escolha chata. de sempre. Os clientes do Rene s5o todos coroas. muito educados mas danados de lentos pars se decidir.

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

29

DIALOG°, POSSiVEL (Mas inventado) UM COROA Meu prezado amigo Deseja ficar corn a moreninha de cabelos curtos?

Ainda que reconhececendo seus inegaveis encantos, minhas predileceles se inclinam para a jovem loura de olhos verdes. qualquer Aceito composicao. Fique corn a loura.

Eu fico corn a morena.

OUTRO COROA Ora, ora, meu distinto e querido companheiro Nem por urn momento pensei em priva-lo de sua eleita.

Cedo-a corn inexcedivel prazer.

A lourinha é realmente urn encanto.

A moreninha tern urn ar melancOlico que me seduz. E a loura é urn ser esplendido, cheio de luz que me atrai como se eu fosse uma libelula.

Bebemos e conversamos.

Tres sdo cariocas e urn deles é paulista. 0 paulista é o que fala menos. Eu ndo gosto muito de paulista, eles sdo todos ignorantes e brutos e acham que resolvem tudo corn dinheiro.

Torco para o paulista ndo me escolher. Ele me olha e quase enfio o dedo no nariz para ele ficar corn nojo. Mas ndo enfio, ate rio para ele, urn riso de garota timida que eu sei fazer.

Os cariocas estdo diyertindo o paulista, sem subserviencia, devem ser todos do mesmo nivel.

DIALOG() (Verdadeiro) COROA PAULISTA Voce E carioca?

Gosta de que?

Gosta de que poetas?

Gosta de Kafka?

E a primeira miss que diz que leu Kafka e !eu mesmo.

Leu Pessoa, etc.?

Eu Sou. Gosto de Inusica e poesia Gosto de Fernando Pessoa, Beethoven, Lennon & McCartney. Já me chamei Lucia McCartney.

Gosto de Kafka tambem.

Aquele pobre homem virando inseto! (Couto historia chamada Metamorfose).

Nao sou nem Ii. Urn garoto me contou a historia, chama-se metamorfose. Faz sempre urn grande efeito nas conversas.

Li Pessoa, etc.

Cada qual vai para urn quarto. Rene sabe que eu ndo gosto de promiscuidade. Eu you para o quarto corn o paulista.

30

Sento num sofa. Ele tambem senta. Depois deita a cabeca no meu cob, diz que ndo esta corn vontade de fazer nada, "esses caras cismaram que eu hoje tinha que ir corn uma garota pra cama, mas vamos so conversar, esta O.K.?" Eu digo que esta O.K.. Ele diz que ndo quer estragar as coisas. Eu digo que esta bem. (Quero ir para o Zum Zum). Passo a mdo nos cabelos dele. nao quero fazer isso," diz ele, tirando a roupa. Eu tambern tiro a roupa e nos deitamos, ele sempre dizendo que ndo quer, mas me papando assim mesmo.

Depois de nos lavarmos, separadamente, ele se veste peie dinheiro na minha bolsa. Ele fica muito calado, corn um jeito meio distraido, meio cansado, meio desinteressado como os coroas fazem. Vamos para a sala e os outros todos ja estdo la, pois nOs perdemos muito tempo corn aquela indecisdo dele. Estao todos dancando. Ele me olha urn pouco e diz "voce pode ir embora." Eu pergunto se ele ndo quer o meu telefone e ele fica pensando urn tempo me olhando e olhando pra sala onde estdo os outros, o cara é mesmo indeciso, e depois de nem sei quanto tempo ele diz, -qua! e?"

Estou no Zum Zum corn os garotos. De yez em quando penso no coroa. 0 que sera que ele faz?

III A coisa de que eu mais gosto no mundo é dormir. Acordar ao meio-dia e ir para a praia. Hoje dia 4 de dezembro e esta um sol barbaro la fora. Me espreguico. Isa chega corn• uma bandeja. "Fiz uma gemada para voce," ela pOe o prato fundo na minha frente, -voce agora so chega depois das seis, perdendo tempo corn esses garotOes." Eu gosto de dancar, ela ndo gosta; eu gosto dos homens (bonitos, jovens, fortes) ela gosta do marido que nem e casado com eta e ninguem sabe onde anda; eu ndo gosto de ficar sozinha, eu pelo amor de Deus!, ndo chateia-, me levanto, ponho urn disco na vitrola e comeco a dancar, eu gosto de ficar o dia inteiro ouv indo mUsica, eu preciso ouvir mUsica, é igual ao ar pra mim. -Estou falando para o teu bem." sei que voce esta falando para o meu bem."

"Ninguem agijenta essa vida que voce esta levando." -Nao vejo nada de errado nela."

-Pense no futuro." futuro ndo me interessa e ndo me chateia mais sendo you-me ern-

bora." "0 Jose Roberto telefonou, o sujeito de SA° Paulo que esteve corn voce ontem."

Isa gostaria de saber coisas sobre o paulista, mas resolvo fazer misterio para ela deixar de ser chata. Tambem ndo sei nada sobre esse Jose Roberto.

Nem sabia que ele se chamava Jose Roberto. Jose Roberto ndo nome de coroa. Ele vai telefonar de novo.

TELEFONEMA — Ale. — Quem fala — Corn querequer falar?

— Corn D. LOcia, por favor.

— Quern quer falar corn eta?

— Jose Roberto.

— E a Lucia que esta falando.

— Como‘ vai ? Voce esta boa?

— Bern. E o senhor?

— Bern.

(Ele cala a boca. Eu tambem cab. Fico nervosa:) — Alguma novidade?

— Eu queria me encontrar corn voce.

— Quando?

— Hoje.

— A que horas?

— A hora que voce puder.

— Eu posso a qualquer hora. Depois das quatro.

— Voce prefere a tardinha ou a noite? # — Qualquer hora.

— A noite, entdo. 8 horas?

Podemos jantar juntos.

— Esta certo. 0 senhor passa aqui, eu passo ai, como é que é?

— Voce passa aqui.

— Mesmo endereco de ontem?

— E outro. Toma nota, por favor.

IV Ele tem urn cheiro born e fala muito suavemente comigo.

Estamos sos. Ele diz que ontem tinha gente demais, "eu queria ficar se, corn voce." Ele parece meio constrangido, como se nunca tiyesse saido corn uma garota de programa. Senta-se longe de mim. "Voce nunca saiu corn uma garota de programa antes?" "Jã, ja sai corn uma porcdo, muitas, nem sei quantas." `Tun° por que voce fica fingindo?" "NA° estou fingindo coisa alguma."

Ele prepara as bebidas. Em cima da mesa da sala vejo urn monte de revistas e um papel, Jose Roberto, estive aqui e neio te encontrei, telefona pra mim, beijos, Suely. Pego o bilhete, faco urn bolinha corn ele e jogo pela janela. A noite esta muito escura, eu ndo vejo o mar mas

sinto o seu cheiro. De noite o mar tern um cheiro diferente, o mar muda de cheiro yarias vezes por dia.

-Pra voce", Jose Roberto me da urn vidro de perfume.

Joy. Adoro perfume. Passo um pouco no braco. "Voce quer ouvir mosica?" Ele me leva a um quarto, onde ha um gravador imenso, coloca na minha cabeca fones que cobrem inteiramente minhas orelhas e ouco a musica mais linda do mundo. "Espetacular, you ficar aqui a noite toda." — ele ri — "por que voce esta. rindo?", — ele responde; mas eu tido ouco, — "o que? o que?", entdo ele tira os fones dos meus ouvidos: "ndo precisa gritar tanto". Corn aqueles fones no ouvido a gente pensa que fala, mas grita, como um surdo. Isso deve ter acontecido corn outras garotas.

CENA (subjetiva) — Isso aconteceu corn outras garotas?

— Isso o que?

— De botar o fone nos ouvidos e ficar gritando igual uma surdinha, como eu fiz.

— Ndo. Aconteceu corn minha rude, mas eta ndo é propriamente uma garota.

— Voce tern mde?

— Voce acha que eu sou muito velho para ter mae?

— E eta yeio aqui?

— Veio.

— E voce traz a sua mde ao mesmo lugar em que voce traz as suas, essas...

—Eu moro aqui. Quando estou no Rio. Essas o que?

— Acho que voce esta mentindo. Essas vagabundas.

— Eu ndo minto nunca.

— E quern é a Suely?

— Suely. Nunca ouvi falar ern Suely.

— Mentiroso.

— Eu nao minto nunca.

— Entdo passe bem. Adeus.

— Espere. Ndo me deixe.

Por favor!

Tiro os fones do ouvido.

CENA (Verdadeira) — Isso aconteceu corn outras garotas?

— Isso o que?

— De botar os fones nos ouvidos e ficar gritando igual a uma surdinha como eu fiz.

— Acontece sempre. Por isso eu ri.

— Corn todas as garotas que vem aqui?

— Todas.

— Sdo muitas? Milhares?

— Milhares ndo. Muitas.

— E quern é Suely ?

— E uma amiga minha.

— Eu sou muito ciumenta.

Joguei fora o bilhete da Suely, NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

assim voce ndo sabe o telefone dela.

— Eu tenho num caderninho. De qualquer forma muito obrigado pelo — Se eu soubesse cozinhar fazia comida pra voce. Eu queria ficar aqui.

— Eu peco o jantar pelo telefone. Voce gosta de champanha?

— Qualquer coisa.

Dois garcons chegam corn travessa, baldes de gelo, garrafas. Que comida! "Estou no major pilequinho", "Entdo voce para urn pouco, pois o que nos vamos fazer agora deve ser feito em plena consciencia." Jose Roberto me leva para o quarto.

"Eu era chamada de Graveto." "0 graveto mais undo do mundo", diz ele, me beijando. Eu you toda pra ele, me entrego, me dou, ele esta dentro de mim, eu rezo para demorar bastante, peco "demora bastante! muito! ndo acaba!" ele me pde doidona, me derrete e meu coracdo fica batendo no peito, na garganta, na barriga, que-bom, que-born, que-born, que-bom. que-bom!

DIALOGIC, — Nuncavi o Jose Roberto.

Ele telefona e diz: me manda uma garota, voce sabe como eu gosto.

— Como é que ele gosta?

— Inteligente, bonita e depravada.

— Eu ndo sou depravada.

— Se for muito inteligente ndo precisa ser muito depravada. diz ele.

— Eu gamei.

(Rene da uma gargalhada) — Que tipo de pessoa ele e?

— Ndo sei. Outro dia mandei um cabacinho pra ele.

A garotaestuda. Eles ja estavam na cama quando ele descobriu que a garota estava matando aula. Ele ficou uma fera. Deu uma licdo de moral na guria, fez ela se vestir, e prometer que ndo matava mais aula, e mandou-a para o colegio. E pagou dobrado, sem sequer tocar nela.

0 cara 6 muito esquisito.

V Jose Roberto esta em Sdo Paulo. Já se passaram sete dias.

Isa cismou de mudar para Ipanema. Arranjou apartamento, comprou urn fiador (desses que anunciam no jornal) e quer mudar ainda esta semana.

Recebi carta de Jose Roberto.

(Ndo tern data, nem nada) Hoje me deu vontade de escrever para uma pessoa que nao conhecesse, ou que, conhecendo, nunca mais viesse a NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

ver. Fui ao cinema e voltei para o apartamento. 0 fume era ruim. No meu caderninho tenho uma porcao de enderecos, mas n,do telefonei para ninguem.

Existe uma garota chamada Neyde, ela bonita, inteligente.

Eu s into (ou sentia?) uma grande atraceio fisica e mental por ela. A nossa pele combina, os nossos gostos combinam, os nossos orgaos sexuais cornbinam. Peguei o telefone para ligar para ela, tres ou quatro vezes, mas ncio liguei. Na mesa do telefone havia uma folha de papel onde eu desenhava bolas e quadrados. 0 estereo estava ligado, Eleanor Rigby, chovia, chovia mesmo, bolas e quadrados tinham virago LUcia, Lucia, 1 u c, ucia, LUCIA, etc.

Nei° liguei para Neide — passadopassou? Solideio é born (mas) depois que eu me esvaziei com urn mulher ou me enchi corn uma mulher. Eu estava sozinho, e neio queria como sempre quis, uma mulher perto de mim, para frui-la fisica e espiritualmente e depois manda-la embora, e essa é a melhor parte, mandar a mulher depois embora e ficar so, pensando e pensando.

Pensando em voce é o que estou fazendo agora. Voce é o meu Minotauro, sinto que entrei no meu labirinto. Alguem sera devorado. Adeus?

Jose Roberto Deliro corn a carta de Jose Roberto. Acho o maximo. "Por que voce esta chorando?", pergunta Isa. "Estou corn saudade do Jose Roberto." "Esse sujeito é maluco," diz Isa depois de ler a carta, "voce 6 outra maluca, sempre vivi rodeada de malucos, para de chorar, sua idiota." Isa mete a mdo no bolso do robe (deve ter sido por isso que o marido deu o pira), e quando fica corn raiva enfia a mdo no bolso corn forca e arrebenta o tecido, "merda, Ia se foi de novo o meu bolso!, sua idiota!"

"Voce acha que eu you veto novamente?". "Vai me dizer que esta apaixonada." Isa acha que isto é uma besteira, que eu estou apenas entusiasmada, porque o Jose Roberto 6 diferente dos garotdes da turma, mais experiente, mais sabido.

"E olha, se por acaso ele aparecer, ndo vai logo se abrindo pra ele, os homens ndo gostam de mulher oferecida."

Combino corn Isa que se o Jose Roberto me procurar eu you fazer o doce, me fingir de desinteressada.

TELEFONEMA — Alo. — Jose Robert! Querido!

— Como vai?

— Eu you bem. Estou corn uma saudade doida de voce.

— Eu tambem senti saudades de voce.

— Adorei sua ,carta. Já Ii mais de cem vezes. Ate na hora de tomar banho eu levo ela comigo pro banheiro.

(Ele fica calado!)

— Onde é que voce esta?

— Estou no apartamento.

— Vou ai te ver.

— Eu estou saindo.

— Eu quero te ver.

— Hoje nao, ndo é possivel.

— Por favor, eu preciso te ver.

— Sinto muito, mas e impossivel.

— Eu estou (riste, Jose Roberto, estou infeliz, deixa eu te ver.

(Isa pega o telefone, "cavalheiro, ye se Ora atormentar minha irma, ela ja, ndo regula vem e o senhor vera atrapalhar ainda mais, fique sabendo que ti a sua carta, o senhor tambem doido. Como?, ela pegou urn taxi e foi para ai" — saio correndo para me yestir, volto para a sala. Isa irritada me passa o telefone — "ele disse que voce ndo pegou taxi coisa nenhuma, para eu chamar voce sendo ele desliga o telefone na minha cara, o patife.")

— Eu vim aqui ver um negOcio, e estou indo embora agora.

— Voce tern ulna mulher ai corn voce.

— Vou para Sao Paulo hoje e estarei de volta dentro de cinco dias. Dentro de cinco dias, aqui no meu apartamento, as 8 horas.

Ele tern a voz tao bonita!

Estou no Le Bateau, no meio do maior barulho, mas so ouco a voz dele. (No inter or da minha cabeca).

A turma diz qu4 eu estou no mundo da lua, d !Nand° de olhos fechados, e rindo sozinha.

Eles ndo sabem de nada! Ndo sabem o que e o amor! Todos uns bobos.

VI Ja se passaram quatro dias.

Nos mudamoa para Ipanema e estamos sem dinheiro, pois o apartamento é maior e precisa de moveis novos, e tivemos que dar um mes adiantado para o fiador que a Isa comprou. Isa esta fazendo urn programa por dia, de tarde, corn uns amigo antigos. Ela é uma grande mulher, programa para ela ndo falta, mas ela nao gosta de sair de noite. Acho que ela ainda

esta esperando pelo marido.

Recebo carta do Jose Roberto.

Solidao é muito importante.

0 telefone tocava sem parar.

Eu dera folga as empregadas.

A campainha da porta tocava.

Fui ouvir mtisica usando os audiofones, bloqueando o mundo exterior. Mas a todo instante tirava os fones dos ouvidos e SEMPRE uma campainha tocava, alguem me procurava quern seria? Sofreria?

Resolvi sair de casa ir para urn lugar onde certamente nao encontraria quem queria me encontrar Apenas uma das pistas do boliche estava ocupada (por tres jovens). Ocupei ,a pista mais distante. A cada strike o apanhador de pinos batia palmas, lentamente, corn preguica; eu so via as pernas dele, magras, protegidas por umas calcas desbotadas cortadas na altura dos joelhos.

Uma moo chegou e sentou numa mesa proxima. Eu tentei, varias vezes, sem exito, uma jogada de efeito.

"Voce quer que eu marque para voce?" perguntou a moca sentando-se em f rente a minha cartela.

"Pode marcar", disse eu.

Eu fiquei jogando ela marcando. Terminada a 10' jogada euperguntei "voc e quer jogar" Eta respondeu: "Ndo. Eu ja joguei muito isso. Olha no quadro ha mais de sets meses estou lá na cabeca e ninguern bate a minha contagem. Nenhuma mulher bem entendido." No quadro estava escrito ELIETE 275 — 11 DE MAIO. "Enjoei" continuou ela "deixei crescer as unhas..."

Eujoguei mais uma partida enquanto conversavamos trivialidades. Terminada a partida chamei o garcon, pedi uma coca botei a gravata, o paleto e a moca sumiu. Eu fiquei frustrado. Urn desconhecido total ntio te pode fazer mat. Mem disso ela tinha urn sorriso bonito, sabia falar (som) e cruzar as pernas. Botei uma nota alta na bola e mandei pro apanhador. Ele mostrou a cara e riu; tinha poucos dentes. Eu bati palmas pra ele, do jeito preguicoso e gozador que ele 'tinha usado comigo.

Eta estava na porta esperando por mim.

"Duzentos e setenta e cinco nab é mole nao," eu disse.

"Eujogava todo dia," disse ela.

Fomos andando.

"Eliete," eu disse.

31

"E voce como se chama?

"Jose Roberto."

"Voce disse Eliete como quem o leao é o rei dos animals."

"Voce quer beber alguma coisa?", perguntei.

"Ouero," disse ela.

Eliete usa o cabelo curto como voce e os olhos dela tern o mesmo brilho negro dos seus.

E uma sensacdo boa, ficarmos frente a frente, sem pressa e sem mentira disponiveis, reciprocos, enguanto bebemos e o mundoJlui suavemente.

Estou com muitas saudades de voce. Lzcia. Lticia. 0 Ledo é o rei dos animals?

Jose Roberto E tao born a gente receber uma carta dessas, inteligente.

Uma vez eu briguei corn urn namorado que teve a audacia de me escrever uma carta que comecava dizendo: espero que estas mal tracadas linhas, etc.

Nao pude nem olhar mais para a cara dele. Jose Roberto me faz pensar. Ele acredita que eu posso pensar, que eu sei pensar.

Sera que ele foi para a cama corn a moca do boliche? Deve ter ido. Ah, meu Deus, eu podia estar la corn ele, marcando o jogo de boliche dele, no lugar daquela piranha. Parecida comigo! Vou cortar meu cabelo a joaozinho, curtinho, s6 eu you ter esta cara, ele vai ver.

VII Chego no apartamento antes de oito horas. Ele me recebe corn uma revista americana na mao. Me (la uma vontade de rir, quando o vejo, e rio, abracada a ele, feliz. Jose Roberto sorri apenas, divertido e surpreendido, corn o meu entusiasmo e corn minha cara nova. Ele passa a mao na minha cabeca, tenta segurar meus cabelos, eu solto minha cabeca, sempre abracada nele, meu corpo grudado no corpo dele, fervendo. "Quantos anos wee tern ?"

Ele tern 36 anos mas eu nao me incomodo, ele pode ser coroa mas é melhor que todos os outros. "E voce?" "Dezoito anos", repete ele, lentamente, como se estivesse dizendo uma palavra magica.

"Sal todas as noites, do Zum Zum para o Le Bateau, do Le Bateau para o Sachinha, todas as noites, \Loa nao se incomoda?" Voce é que sabe o que pode e o que nao pode fazer." "Eu quero te fazer ciome." Ele ri, misteriosamente, me beija no rosto, nao sei o que ele esta pensando ou sentindo, mas ciame certamente nao 32

existe no coracao (e na cabeca) dele.

Eu nao quero saber o que ele faz. Ele diz que talvez seja espiao russo (ou americano) ou trapezista de circo ou poeta ou fotOgrafo ou farmaceutico Ele pode ser isto tudo, ou outra coisa qualquer. Ele é estranho. as vezes fala no telefone em ingles, frances e creio que uma vez em alemao. Ou portugues, frases curtas, enigmaticas. Mas nada disso me incomoda, ele pode ser o que bem entender, o segredo me atrai ainda mais.

It para a cama corn ele cada vez melhor. Ele sabe amar, me deixa louca, horas seguidas.

Me deixa mortinha — durmo direto e quando acordo ele esta calmamente lendo urn livro, ou fumando cachimbo e ouvindo musica naqueles fones dele, pronto pra me amar de nova.

Amanha ele vai para Sao Paulo, ou Buenos Aires ou Lima, o assunto nao ficou bem esclarecido. E meia noite e ele diz que tern o que fazer, que tern que sair. Isso apenas, "tenho que Coloca urn monte de dinheiro na minha bolsa: "para voce ir a boate."

Descemos juntos, ele carregando uma pasta. Jose Roberto me beija no rosto e me pOe num taxi. Nesse instante vejo um enorme carro negro se aproximar, e Jose Roberto entrar dentro dele. 0 sinal fechado coloca o meu taxi ao lado do carro dele. 0 chofer dele esta todo de preto, bone preto, roupa preta e tern uma cara dura. Jose Roberto me ve, eu aceno para ele. Ele acena de volta, alheio, distante, fechando os dedos sobre a mao espalmada, como faz a rainha da Inglaterra no cinema.

DIALOGO (Inventado, depois de urn sonho) CLIENTE (Jose Roberto)

meacao

é uma iniquidade

Eu nao sou prostituta Voce nao vai tirar a roupa, benzinho?

CLIENTE (Jose Roberto) 0 dinheiro que voce ganha

facil? muito? vii?

Voce sabe o que é complexo de Ed ipo?

JA ouviu falar em

Freud?

SOfocles?

Daqui a pouco eu tiro

PROSTITUTA ( Eu) Porque ganho pouco

no escritOrio na loja na TV me perdi gosto perdi meu emprego tenho um filhinho para sustentar estou esperando uma no-

deixa voce na mao se voce nAo é

artista de cinema bonito conquistador rico poderoso famoso Daqui a pouco eu tiro.

PROSTITUTA (Eu) Voce nao vai tirar a roupa, benzinho?

PROSTITUTA (En) Ganho

Regularmente Mais do que uma datilOgrafa Mais do que urn gerente de banco Mais do que uma operaria Mais do que urn coronel do exercito Conheco os dois mas prefiro o Socrates (porque tomou cicuta) Voce nao vai tirar a roupa, benzinho?

CLIENTE (Jose Roberto) Daqui a pouco eu tiro.

PROSTITUTA (Eu) Minha vida dá urn romance

undo triste edificante pornografico nova hermetic° cid samba (de festival) é de amargar

CLIENTE (Jose Roberto) Daqui a pouco eu tiro.

é urn punhal de dois gumes fatais

A prostituta é uma mulher imoral?

amar é sofrer nao amar é sofrer mais

PROSTITUTA (Eu)

Voce nao vai tirar a roupa, benzinho?

Nao tenho vergonha de ser prostituta.

Meu trabalho la° é pior do que

Por que voce

faz programa? é prostituta? vai para a cama corn os homens?

é injusto

corn os feios corn os pobres diabos corn as pobres de espirito corn os pobres

CLIENTE (Jose Roberto) Quais as melhores clientes?

Daqui a pouco eu tiro.

ode uma lavadeiraque lava cuecas o de uma massagista o de uma arrumadeira que limpa banheiros o de uma dentista o de uma ginecologista 0 que voce acha do amor livre?

Voce nao vai tirar a roupa, benzinho?

CLIENTE (Jose Roberto) 0 amor livre

nao acabara corn a prostituicao

PROSTITUTA (Eu) Voce — é o melhor cliente.

Voce nao vai tirar a roupa, benzinho?

(0 cliente tira a roupa e debaixo da camisa tern outra camisa e debaixo da calca tern outra calca e debaixo do sapato tern outro sapato. As roupas ja estao batendo no teto. Jose Roberto continua tirando roupas do corpo corn rapidez cada vez maior e dizendo importantes coisas, em alemao.)

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

CARTA (Recontituicao mnemonica) limo. Sr. Isaac Zaltman Programa HOJE E DIA DE ROCK Radio Mayrink Veiga Nesta Prezado Sr. Zaltman Sempre ouco o seu programa HOJE E DIA DE ROCK, o melhor do radio brasileiro.

Muito obrigado por transmitir diariamente a masica dos THE BEATLES. Continue sempre assim.

Llicia McCartney CARTA (ipsis litteris) "Palavras, palavras, palavras, " diz Hamlet para Polonius no segundo ato.

Palavras, palavras, palavras, dira voce, vitima tambem da mesma dUvida existencial do personagem shakespeariano, ao ler esta carta.

Urn dos poemas de John Lennon conta a historia de uma moca que abandona a familia em busca de fun. "Ela tinha tudo," dizem as pats perplexos ao lerem a carta de despedida.

E uma sexta-feira, a moca saiu sub-repticiamente, apertando o lenco de encontro ao peito e sentindo ndo ter podido dizer na carta tudo aquilo que pretendia. Tern um encontro marcado corn um homem que representa para ela, fun, ale gria, diversdo. "Fun is the one thing that money can't buy". A letra inteira esta na capa do disco. Voce já deve conhece-la. A masica do teu irrnão (ou ex-noivo?) McCartney e muito bonita tambern.

Voce saiu de casa (que era um edificio de t(olos convencoes e miseria) para entrar num circuito fechado, sem ar e sem luz, como o tfinel de uma toupeira. Tunel que neio pode ser o caminho da libertaceio individual que voce talvez estivesse procurando.

Enfrente a realidade corn suas dificuldades e asperezas.

Jose Roberto

-

Sujeito pernostico e besta," diz Isa depois de ler a carta.

"Ele é mais besta e mascarado do que maluco. Faroleiro. Velho desfrutavel. Atrevido." "Ele nao evelho." Isa tem marcacao corn o Jose Roberto. Ela acha que se ele gostasse de mim ele NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

se tornava uma especie de protetor meu. Horrivel, essa palavra. Meu protetor. Meu coronel. Se pudesse, eu era o coronet dele. Coitada da Isa. Eu nao preciso •de protetor, preciso de amor.

Mas comecou tudo errado.

0 tunel é eu ser uma puta? A libertacao individual é ser bem comportado? Ter urn emprego decente? Ele nao me entende, meu Deus, como é possivel isso, se ele nao me entende, quem vai me entender? -Cfrora, manteiga derretida," diz Isa, saindo do quarto, batendo a porta.

Isa esta cada vez pior, reclamando que eu chego tarde (ou cedo) todo dia. Estou muito infeliz e queria ver Jose Roberto. Passo as dias escrevendo cartas. (Para o Jose Roberto).

Assim que acordo (meio-dia) comeco a escrever cartas. (Que nao mando). Hoje estou muito angustiada. Ele nao precisava me dar adeusinho como se eu fosse urn sUdito (uma sirclita?).

MINHOCA ENROLADA NO MEU PESCOCO — LAGARTIXA ANDANDO NO MEU PEITO — BARATA ENROSCADA NOS MEUS CABELOS — RATO ROENDO A MINHA BOCA: DIALOGO

onde ninguem me chateie, you sumir, se o Jose Roberto telefonar (de onde?) diz que eu morn. eu tenho que ir embora, Isa, do contrario quando ele chegar (de onde?) e ligar para mim eu saio rastejando, juro, estou sentindo dor. no corpo todo de tanta sauldade desse homem.Isa: -estou dercada de doidos por todos os lados."

VIII Em Sao Paulo, na casa da minha tia. Estou aqui ha uma semana. A geladeira tern urn cadeado. Minha tia chama a parte da casa onde vivem as empregadas de edilica. 0 passatempo dela (minha tia) é falar mal das empregadas, dos vizinhos, do govern°, do marido e dos artistas de cinema, radio e televisao. Meu tio chega diariamente por volta das sete horas, corn o Estado de sao Paulo debaixo do braco e diz sempre a mesma frase: "uf, que dia, nem tive tempo de ler o jornal," sempre corn a mesma inflexao e a mesma falta de significado ou destinatario.

(Como o jornal, que no fim de semana é vendido a peso pela minha tia).

Meu tio liga a televisao.

CENA (Verdadeira, corn pequenas adaptaceles)

quern flair) quis. Aquela sirigaita nao podia acabar de outro jeito!

(De voitaà sala de televisao) CANTORA: Larali. larala. etc.

MINHA TIA: Larali, larala mas foi presa pela policia tomando as tais bolinhas!

MEU TIO: Fulana?!

MINHA TIA: Fulana sim senhor! Voce nao sabe nada.

Gastaram uma fortuna para abafar o escaridalo!

Hoje é o setimo dia do meu desterro. Sou a mulher mais infeliz do mundo. Nao tenho pai nem mae. (Mas ate acho born eles terem morrido, para nao ficarem iguais aos meus tios. Pai e mae nao fazem falta.

Irma° faz, foi por isso que eu arranjei a Isa pra irma, ela é um pouquinho burra e chata, mas é minha irma, nao no sangue, no coracao).

Passo as dias e as noites ouvindo mnsica no radio de pilha e escrevendo cartas.

Querido Jose Roberto eu te amo eu te amo eu te amo eu te amo eu te amo eu te amo eu te amo eu te amo eu te amo. RASGO. Querido Jose Roberto. Nao posso viver sem voce, quero ficar perto de voce, pode ser coma empregada ou cozinheira ou engraxate ou lavadeira ou tapete ou cachimbo ou chinelo ou cachorro ou barata ou rato, qualquer coisa da sua casa, voce IA° precisa falar comigo, nem olhar para mim. RASGO. Na casa dele nao tern barata, cachorro, rato. Cachorro tem acento circunflexo? Circunflexo tern acento circunflexo?

Sou muito ignorante para escrever para ele. (Esqueco que nem sei onde ele esta).

—Jose Roberto esteve aqui.

— A que horas?

— De tarde.

— De tarde? Mas ele sabia que hoje eu tinha a primeira aula do curso de ingles.

— Ele vai embora, Lucia.

Veio deixar um cheque para voce. Disse que vai ficar anos e anos fora.

Anos e anos? Ele disse isso?

— Disse que talvez nem voltasse. Ele disse, eu nao sou dono de mim, nem de ninguem, diga isso a eta.

— 0 que significa essa frase?

— Nao sei.

— Ele estava triste?

— Nao sei. A cara dele nao dizia nada.

— Nao acredito, nao acredito. Ele me ama.

—Fala devagar! Nao estou te entendendo.

LOCUTOR: 0 Presidente da Republica pede a uniao de todos os brasileiros!

"Seis horas da manha, isso é hora de chegar em casa," repete Isa. Eu grito: "Vou embora, you passar um belo fim-de-semana longe de tudo,

MEU TIO: Coitados!? A filha Unica!

Meu coracao esta negro. 0 ar que eu respiro atravessa urn caminho de came podre cancerosa que comeca no nariz e termina corn uma pontada em algum lugar nas minhas costas.

Quando penso em Jose Roberto um raio de luz corta o meu coracao. Iluminae doi. As vezes penso que minha Unica saida é o suicidio. Fogo as vestes?

Barbituricos? Pub o da janela?

Hoje a noite you a boate.

MINHA TIA. Coitados!?

So nao viu o que ia acontecer

From Lucia McCartney, Olive Editor

MEU TIO: Este pals nao tern jeito!

MINHA TIA: Sao todos uns ladroes!

MEU TIO: Quem paga somos rid's!

LOCUTOR: Gloriosos destinos da nava° brasileira!

MINHA TIA: 0 dinheiro vai para as amantes e para os parentes!

(Mesa do jant r) MINHA TIA: A filha esta gravida e eles querem esconder, pensando que as outros sao imbecis!

Nao sei onde ele esta.

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34 NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

emperor became increasingly unpopular. After the emperor returned to L isboin in 1822, Brazil declared independence.

The new Brazilian Empire experienced instability until its second emperor, Dom Pedro II, came of age. Ruling from 1840 to 1889, Dom Pedro II proved to be a dedicated, enlightened and modest ruler. He was also the final emperor; the military overthrew him and proclaimed Brazil a republic in 1889. Subsequently, there was a succession of presidents and military coups until the 1980s. Ex-president Fernando Collor de Mello. who was impeached, became the first directly elected president in twenty-nine years.

Type of Government Brazil is a multiparty federal republic. The president is both the chief of state and the head of the government. There are two legislative houses: an 81-member Senate and a 503-member Chamber of Deputies.

Religion There is no official religion. The predominant religion in Brazil is still Roman Catholicism, espoused by 90 percent of the population. Within that group are various Catholic sects. Some 16 percent of Brazilians practice Afro-Brazilian religions that combine tribal and Catholic beliefs (they are sometimes known as Spiritist Catholics). Evangelical Catholics make up 9 percent. Protestant sects have been making many converts in Brazil, although they still account for less than 9 percent.

Judaism, Buddhi m, and other religions exist in Brazil as well.

Demographics

Brazil for beginners So you want to start a business in Brazil. Should you take a gift to a Brazilian you're just starting to do business with? No, say the authors of Kiss, Bow, or Shake Hands. Should you arrive on time for a party given by your Brazilian host? The answer again is no. Brazil is no US for doing business and not your typical Latin American country either.

This book can give you some help.

TERRI MORRISON

Country Background History In 1500 the first European, Pedro Alvares Cabral, reached Brazil. Brazil was colonized by Portugal and became one of its most important, and by far the largest, colonies. When Portugal was occupied by Napoleon, members of the Portuguese royal family fled to Brazil. Rio de Janeiro was the seat of the entire Portuguese Empire from 1808 to 1821, but the Portuguese NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

Brazil has a population of approximately 146 million who is concentrated on its east coast. Over 90 percent of the people live on 10 percent of the land, and over 15 million live in Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Brazilians' cultural heritage is rich and varied, with 55 percent of European descent (primarily Portuguese), 38 percent a mixture of cultures (African, German, Japanese, Amerindian, and so forth), 6 percent African, and only 1 percent Amerindian (about 150.000). Nearly 50% of the population is under twenty years of age.

Cultural Orientation Cognitive Styles: How Brazilians Organize and Process Information — Brazilians are open to discussions of most subjects, but home and family are very private matters and are not a topic fdr acquaintances. Brazilians tend to be more analytical and abstractive than other Latin Americans. They look at the particulars of each situation rather than looking to universal rules or laws.

Negotiation Strategies: What Brazilians Accept as Evidence — Brazilians tend to approach problems indirectly, allowing their feelings to dictate the solution. Facts are admissible as evidence but they may change with the needs of the negotiator, and they seldom overrule subjective feelings.

Value System: The Basis for Behavior — There are large groups of Germafis (who kept their own language) and Japanese (who learned Portuguese) who have their own value systems, which differ somewhat from the Brazilians'. The following three sections identify the Value Systems in the predominant culture — their methods of dividing right from wrong, good from evil, and so forth.

Locus of Dec sion Making The individual is responsible for his or her decisions, but family loyalty is the individual's highest duty. Nepotism is the influential family member's first obligation. The family is more important in Brazil than in any other Latin American country.

It has been the single most important institution in the formation of Brazilian society.

Sources of Anxiety Reduction The most significant kin group is the parentela — the relatives one recpgnizes from both families — which may include hundreds1 of individuals, all related to an illustrious ancestor. This creates a social structure that gives the individual a great sense of sltability. The Catholic church is an essential part of the culturel and social life. Although most Brazilians are only nominal Catholics, the church gives structure to their lives.

Issues of Equality/Inequality The concepts of class and status are strong and may determine what job a Person will have. Class is described in economic terms. There is a strong color bias. There are extreme 35

contrasts between rich and poor, but the concept that powerful people are entitled to special privileges of office is being questioned. The macho male image prevails, and Brazilian men continue to expect women to be subordinate.

• Ask your prospect's secretary to recommend a prestigious restaurant • Do not expect to discuss business during a meal. Yoti should participate in the conversation, but not try to direct it too much. Wait until coffee is served to begin any business.

Business Practices • Stay at a first-class hotel, and Appointments entertain there if the hotel has an Cultural Note: excellent restaurant.

Punctuality • If you are invited to a party, it Brazi lians do not consider themselves to • The lack of punctuality is a fact of will probably be given at a private life in Brazil. Become accustomed to be Hispanics, and they resent being - club rather than at a home. Arrive at waiting for your Brazilian counterpart. spoken to in Spanish. Be sure all your least fifteen minutes late.

• Avoid any business transactions documentation — including business • A snack consisting of cookies, around Carnaval, which always precedes cards — is printed in both Portuguese cake, and beverages is usually served Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent. at 4:00 or 5:00 P.M. and English.

Make appointments at least two weeks in • Brazilian dinners take place any advance. Never try to make impromptu time from 7:00 to 10:00 P.M.. Dinner parties can easily continue calls at business or government offices. until 2:00 A.M., but it is not unheard of for dinner parties to • Business hours are generally advertised as 8:30 A.M. to break up as late as 7:00 A.M. the next morning!.

5:30 P.M., but decision makers usually begin work later in the morning and stay later in the evening. Try making appointments Protocol between 10:00 A.M. and noon, and 3:00 and 5:00 P.M.. If your Greetings business runs into lunch, be prepared to spend at least two • Greetings can be effusive, with extended handshakes hours. common during the first encounter, progressing to embraces • Be prepared to commit long-term resources (both in time once a friendship has been established. Women often kiss each and money) toward establishing strong relationships in Brazil. other on. alternating cheeks: twice if they are married, three Without such commitments, there is no point attempting to do times if single. The third kiss is supposed to indicate "good business there at all. luck" for finding a spouse.

• Brazilians conduct business through • It is polite to shake hands with everyone personal connections and expect long- How to Do &int% in SO present in a group, both upon arrival and upon term relationships. Before you invest in a departure. trip, hire an appropriate Brazilian contact Titles/Forms of Address in your industry to help you meet the right • When available, titles such as Doctor or people. Your Brazilian contact (called a Professor, and so forth, are used to address despachante in Portuguese) will be inbusiness acquaintances, or the term Senhor valuable. Contacts can be found through (Mister) or Senhora (Mrs.) is used to precede the US Department of Commerce, the the surname. Be aware that people may someAmerican Chamber of Commerce in Bratimes introduce themselves using their titles and zil, or international organizations to which their first names (e.g., Doctor John). you may _belong.

Negotiating

Gestures

• Brazilians communicate in extremely close • Be patient. It will usually require prbximity. They may keep in physical contact several trips to get through a bargaining by touching arms, hands, or shoulders during process. the entire conversation. They are friendly and.

• During negotiations, be prepared to outgoing, and physical interaction is simply an discuss all aspects of the contract simultaextension of the Brazilian persona --- do not neously rather than sequentially. back away.

• Seemingly extraneous data may be Thrri Aforrison, Wayne A. Um( rawy, • The sign for "O.K." in the United States (a reviewed and re-reviewed. Try to be as G,i,Borden. Ph.D. circle of first finger and thumb) is totally unacflexible as possible without making deficeptable in Brazil. It is considered vulgar.

Bans . nite commitments.

• To signal "come here," extend your palm • Sometimes Brazilians find US agface down and wave your fingers toward your gressive business attitudes offensive — do not expect ri get body. right to the point. Avoid confrontations, and hide any fruttra• Snapping your fingers while whipping your hand up and tions. down adds emphasis to a statement, or can indicate "long ago."

• If you change your negotiating team, you may undermine • To invoke good luck, place your thumb between your the entire contract. Brazilians value the person they do business index andmiddle fingers while making a fist. This is also known with more than the firm name. as the "fig."

• Make sure you have a local accountant and notario(sitOilar • Flicking the fingertips underneath the chin indicates that to a lawyer) or lawyer for contract issues. Brazilians may resent you do not know the answer to a question. an outside legal presence.

• It is normal for a conversation to be highly animated, with Excerpted from many interruptions, many statements Kiss, Bow or Shake of "no" being interjected, and a great Hands — How to Do deal of physical contact.

Culture note: Business in Sixty Countries • Brazilians are enthusiastic socby Terri Morrison, Despite massive economic problems, Brazil is cer (called futebol) fans, and soccer Wayne A. Conaway, and provides a lively topic for conversaoften regarded as a potentially rich country with George A. Borden, Ph.D. tion. a strong industrial sector, large agricultural Copyright 1994 • Avoid deep discussions of poliproduction, and rich natural resources. An Adams Media Corp.: tics and any topics relating to Argenexample of its potential for efficient utilization of For information regardtina (Brazil's traditional rival). ' ing the book, contact: resources is its processing of sugarcane into • Brazilians use periods to puncGetting through customs, tuate thousands, and use commas to ethyl alcohol for fueling 1.5 million Brazilian PO Box 136, Newton Square delineate fractions. cars. Its natural resources include gold, nickel, Pennsylvania 19073 • Be aware that Brazilians contin, oil, and timber taken from its tropical rain Tel: (610) 353-9894, sider themselves Americans also. Do forest in the Amazon River basin — a practice Fax (610) 353-6994. not use the phrase "in America" when E-mail now regarded as controversial and cause for referring to the United States.

74774.1206@compuserve.com Business Entertaining international concern.

36

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1996

T

here's a rather well-known story about a naturalist in the Mato Grosso. Disoriented by the sameness of the forest, the naturalist asked his Indian guide — who had killed a bird, put it in a tree and, incredibly, knew where to return for it at the end of the day — how he knew where the tree was.

"It was in the same place," the Indian replied.

To begin to appreciate the Mato Grosso's inaccessibility and vastness, read the classic Brazilian .1(Iventure by Peter Fleming. It also happens to be one of the funniest travel books ever written. Fleming tells the story of his quest to find the famous British explorer Colonel Fawcett, who disappeared in the Mato Grosso in 1925 while searching for the hidden city ofgold. For a more scientific report on the region see Mato Grosso: Last Virgin Land by Anthony Smith.

Mato Grosso means bundu, bush, Savannah, outback; an undeveloped thick scrub. Part of the highland plain that runs through Brazil's interior, the Mato Grosso is a dusty land of rolling hills and some of the best fishing rivers in the world, such as the Araguaia.

This is also the land where many of Brazil's remaining Indians live. They are being threatened by rapid agricultural development, which is bringing in poor peasants from the south and Northeast who are desperate for land, and by a government which is less than fully committed to guaranteeing them their rights. In 1967 an entire government agency, the Indian Protective Service, was dissolved. No less than 134 of its 700 employees were charged with crimes and 200 were fired. In two years the director had committed 42 separate crimes against Indians including collusion in murder, torture and illegal sale of land.

There's a saying in Brazil that 'progress is roads'. Key routes such as the Belem to Brasilia and the Cuaiba to Santarem roads have catalyzed the opening of vast stretches of the Mato Grosso to cattle, rice, cotton, soybean, corn and manioc, as well as mining. Goias where wealthy ranchers fly from one end of their huge tracts of land to the other in private planes, is one of the fastest growing agricultural belts , in the country.

This is Brazil's frontier, the wild west where an often desperate struggle for land between peasants, Indians, miners, rich landowners and their hired guns leads to frequent killings and illegal land expropriation.

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CU1ABA Founded by gold and slave-seeking handeiranies in 1719, Cuiaba has little historic or cultural heritage to interest travelers. However, it's a lively place and a good base for excursions into the Pantanal and Chapada dos Guimaraes, as well as a rest stop on the way to the Amazon and expeditions to Parque Nacional das Emas and the Rio Araguaia.

The city is actually two sister-cities separated by the Rio Cuiaba; old Cuiaba and Varzea Grande (where the airport is located by the Rio Cuiaba). We found the people here incredibly friendly and gracious.

History - Imagine how hard it was to get here in the 18th century. A Paulisla, Pascoal Moreira Cabral, was hunting Indians along the Rio Cuiaba when he found gold in 1719. A gold rush followed but many gold-seekers never reached Cuiaba. Traveling by river over 3000 km from Sao Paulo took five months; along the way there was little food, many 4' mosquitoes, rapids, portages, disease and incredible heat.

There was usually one flotilla of canoes each year, bringing supplies, slaves and miners and returning with gold. There were several hundred people in a flotilla, including many soldiers to protect the canoes against Indian attacks, but nevertheless the expeditions often failed. With the end of the gold boom and the decay of the mines Cuaiba would have disappeared, except that the gold was never completely exhausted (garimpeiros still seek their fortunes today); also, the soil along the Rio Cuiaba allowed subsistence agriculture while the river itself provided fish.

As in many mining towns, there was tension between Paulistas and recent Portuguese immigrants. In 1834, the t, small town was torn apart by the Rusga (Brawl), in which a nativist movement of Paulislas, inspired by wild rumors

following Brazilian independence, slaughtered many Portuguese under the pretext that the victims wanted to return Brazil to Portuguese rule.

Today, Cuiabd is a frontier boom town. New roads have opened the land of the Mato Grosso and southern Amazon, bringing peasants desperate for land to the area and increasing export ofagricultural products.

Since the 1950s, Cuiaba's population has been growing at 14% annually, a national record. It is the boom town in the country of boom towns. In 1969 Cuaibd got its first TV channel, the litmus test of progress in Brazil. It was named the boca do send° — the mouth of the backlands.

Indians—To reach Cuiabd the Portuguese had to cross the lands of several groups of Indians, many of whom were formidable warriors. They included the Caiapo, who even attacked the settlement at Goias, the Bororo of the Pantanal, the Parecis who were enslaved to thine the gold, the Paiagua, who defeated several large Portuguese flotillas and caused periodic panic in Cuiabd itself, and the Guaicuru, skilled riders and warriors with many years' experience in fighting the Europeans.

As a result of being a nomadic people in a region without abundant food, the Guaicuru women performed selfabortions, refusing to have children until they were near menopause. On the longer journeys, when the women stayed behind, the Guaicuru men took male transvestites with them .as sexual partners.

Both women and men could divorce easily and often did, several times a year.

Despite important victories, many Indians had been killed or enslaved by the time the gold boom began to fade in the mid-1700s. However, today there are several tribes still left in northern Mato Grosso living as they have for centuries. The Erikbatsa, noted for their fine featherwork, live near Fontanilles and Juima; the Nhambikuraa are near Padroal; and the Cayabi near Juara.

There are also the Indians of Aripuana park, and of course the tribes under the care of FUNAI at Xingu park. The only tribe left in the Pantanal which still subsists by hunting and fishing is the Bororo.

You probably won't be able to overcome FUNAI's obstacles to visiting the Indians, but if you want to visit 38

FUNAI the office (321-2325) is at Rua Sao J quim, 1047 and is open from 8 am to 5:30 pm. The co dition ofthe building speaks volumes about the gove ent's lack of concern with Indians affairs.

Information — Tourist Office Turima (3225363), the Mato Grosso tourist authority, is in e city center in Praca da Republica. The staff a very helpful, speak English and have information, n hotels in the Pantanal and a list of reasonably priced guides (live ones that is) for the Pantanal. The office is open Monday to Friday from 8 am to 6 pm, Health — Remember to start your antimalarials prior to visiting the Pantanal.

Museu do Indio — Cuiabes tourist brochures make much noise about satellite tracking antennas, but they're no big deal. The Museu do Indio (Rondon) is, however, played down. The museum has exhibits of the Xavantes, Bororos and Kara.* tribes and is worth a visit. It is at the university on Avenida Fernando Correia da Costa and is open Monday to Friday from 8 to 11:30 am and 1:30 to 5:30 pm. The university also contains a small zoo.

Market — The market by the bridge that crosses the Rio Cuiabd is a good one, at least before and after the heat of the day. It's interesting not so much for buying as for looking at the people and their products.

They're a very friendly crowd. Try the waterfront bars for a drink afterwards.

Festival—The Festa de sao Benedito takes place during the first week in July at Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosario and the Capela de Sao Benedito. The holiday has a more Umbanda than Catholic flavor; it's celebrated with traditional foods like bolo de queijo and bolo de arroz, and regional dances like 0 Cururu, 0 Siriri, Dancas do Congo, dos Mascarados, and others.

CHAPADA DOS GUIMARAES After the Pantanal, Chapada dos Guimaraes is the region's leading attraction. This rocky plateau is 800 meters higher than and 64 km northeast of Cuiaba, in a beautiful region reminiscent ofthe American Southwest. Surprisingly different from the typical Mato Grosso terrain, this place is not to be missed. I spent two days here but would have loved to spend a week.

Veu de Noiva & the Mirante Lookout — The two exceptional sights in the Chapadas are the 60-meter Veu de Noiva (Bridal Veil) falls and the Mirante lookout, the geographic center of South America.

Both are quite easy to find. Six km after Salgadeira, you'll see the turnoff for Veil de Noiva on the right.

It's well signposted.

Alta Mira is eight km from the town of Chapada.

Take the last road in Chapada on your right, go eight km and look carefully for a `Capao do Boi' sign on your left. A hundred meters after the sign on your right is a dirt road with a sign saying 'Centro Geodesico'. Turn right and drive a couple of hundred meters to the rim of the canyon. The view is stupendous; offto your right you can see the Cuiabd skyline.

At about 2 pm, start walking downhill over the bluff, slightly to your right. There's a small trail that leads to a magical lookout perched on top of rocks with the canyon below. This is Chapada's most dazzling place.

Other Attractions — Driving to Chapada, you'll pass Rio dos Peixes, Rio Mutaca and Rio Claro, all, popular weekend bathing spots for Cuiabanos. The sheer, 80-meter drop called Portdo do Inferno (Hell's Gate) is also unforgettable.

Take a waterfall shower at Cachoeirinha and peek into the chapel ofNossa Senhora de Santana, a strange mixture of Portuguese and French baroque. A hike to• the top of Chapada's highest point, Morr do Sao Jeronimo, is well worthwhile.

A bit further OW of town are the 1100 m er-long Aroe Jani cavern and, in another cave, the Lagoa Atul (Blue Lake).

CACERES The city of Caceres, founded in 1778 on the left bank of the Rio Paraguai, is an access point for a number of Pantanal lodges and San Mathias in Bolivia. Caceres is 215 km from Cuiaba on BR-070 and close to the Ilha de Taiama ecological reserve.

Lots oftravelers arrive with the misunderstanding that they'll be able to get a cement bargeto Corumbd. You'd have to be very lucky, and unless you have unlimited time to hang around, forget it. Even the port captain has no idea when the boats are likely to arrive.

BARAO DE MELGAGO Barao de Melgaco, 35 km southeast of Cuiaba, is, along with Caceres and Pocone, a northern entrance into the Pantanal. Nearby there are ruined fortresses from the Paraguayan wars, and Sia Mariana and Chacorore, two huge bays full of fish.

POCONE Pocone is the northern entry point to the Pantanal from Cuiabi and the beginning of the Transpantaneira 'highway'. In May the pink city of Pocone celebrates the weeklong Semana do Fazendeiro e do Cavalo Panteiro with a cattle fair and rodeos. Most of - the locals are descendants of Indians and Blacks. Many have hunted the onca (jaguar) and have amazing stories to tell.

They wear some excellent straw hats.

The Amazon may have all the fame and glory, but the Pantanal is a far better place to see wildlife. In the Amazon, the animals hide in the dense foliage, but in the open spaces . of the Pantanal wildlife is visible to the most casual observer. It's not easy to get to and almost impossible to do on the cheap, but if you like to see animals in their natural state, the Pantanal -- with the greatest concentration of fauna in the New World -- should not be missed.

A vast wetlands in the center of South America, the Pantanal is about half the size of France -- some 230,000 sq. km spread across Brazil, Bolivia and Paraguay. Something :less than 100,000 sq. km is in Bolivia and Paraguay, and the rest is in Brazil, split between the states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul. The Pantanal -- Terra de Ninguem (Nobody's Land) -NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

•

has few people and no towns.

Distances are so large and ground transport so poor that people get around in small airplanes or motorboats; 4WD travel is restricted by the seasons. The only road that plunges deep into the Pantanal is the Transpantaneira, a raised dirt road sectioned by 89 small, wooden bridges, which ends 145 km from Pocone at Porto Jofre. Only a third of the intended route from Pocone to Corumba has been completed because of lack of funds and ecological concerns.

The road and a strip ofland on either side of it comprise the Transpantanal national park. Although IBAMA is trying to expand its jurisdiction to protect the entire Pantanal region, it only administers one other park in the Mato Grosso portion of the Pantanal, the Parque Nacional do Pantanal Matogrossense which encompasses the old Cara-Card biological reserve.

Geography & Climate — Although pcintano means swamp in both Spanish and Portuguese, the Pantanal is not a swamp, but rather a vast alluvial plain. In geological terms it is a sedimentary basin of quaternary origin, the drying remains of an ancient inland sea called the Xaraes which began to dry out along with the Amazon Sea 65 million years ago.

First sea, then immense lake, and now a periodically flooded plain, the Pantanal — 2000 km from the Atlantic Ocean yet only 100 to 200 meters above sea level -- is bounded by higher lands: the mountains of the Serra de Maracaju to the east; the Serra da Bodoquena to the south; the Paraguayan and Bolivian Chaco to the west; and the Serra dos Parecis and the Serra do Roncador to the north. From these highlands, the rains flow into the Pantanal, forming the Rio Paraguai and its tributaries (which flow south and then east, draining into the Atlantic Ocean between Argentina and Uruguay).

During the rainy season, from October to March, the rivers flood their banks-- inundating much of the low-lying Pantanal for half the year and creating cordilheiras, patches of dry land where the animals cluster together. The waters reach their high mark as much as three meters-- in January or February, then start to recede in March, and don't stop until the rainy season returns some six months later.

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

This seasonal flooding has made systemati farming impossible and severely limited human incursions into the area. It has also provided an enorriously rich feeding ground for wildlife.

The flood waters replenish the soil's nu rients, which would otherwise be very poor due to the excessive drainage. The waters teem with fish, aid the ponds provide excellent ecological niches fo many animals and plants. Enormous flocks of wadin birds gather in rookeries several sq. km in area.

Later in the dry season, the water reced s, the lagoons and marshes dry out, and fresh grasses merge on the Savannah (Pantanal vegetation inclu es Savannah, forest and meadows which blend together, often with no clear divisions). The hawks andjacares compete for fish in the remaining ponds. The ponds shrink and dry up and the jacares crawl around for water, sweating it out until the rains return.

When to Go — If possible, go during the dry season from April to September/October. The best time to go birdying is during the latter part of the dry season, from July to September, when the bird are at their rookeries in great numbers, the water have receded and the bright green grasses pop up fr m the muck. Temperatures are comfortable in the d season, being hot by day and cool by night, with plenty of rain.

Flooding, incessant rains and deep heat make travel difficult during the rainy season from ovember to March, though not without some spe ial rewards (this is when the cattle and exotic wil life of the Pantanal clump together on the small is ands).

The heat peaks in November and December when temperatures over 40°C are common. Roads urn to breakfast cereal. The mosquitoes are fierce and hey 're out in force. Many hotels close at this time.

The heaviest rains fall in February and arch.

Every decade or so the flooding is disastro s, destroying both humans and animals. In 1988, the southern Pantanal was devastated:fazendas were des royed, cattle and wild animals drowned and starved, nd the city of Corumba was submerged for weeks.

Fishing is best during the first part of t e dry season, from April to May, when the flooded rivers settle back into their channels, but Pantanal co boys have been known to lasso 80-kg fish through ut the dry season and well into December. This is s me of the best fishing in the world. There are ab ut 20 species of piranha; many are vegetarians, and all are good eating. There's the tasty dourado, a feist 10 to 20 pounder; and there are many other excellent c tches, such as pacu, surubim, bagre, giripoca, pirapu anga, piapara, cachara, pirancajuva and pintado to ame a few.

Hunting is not permitted, but fishing — with required permits -- is encouraged. Fishing permits are available from IBAMA in Cuiaba and Campo Grande.

Enthusiasts can study their quarry at Cuiaba's fish market, located in the market near the bridge.

Guides — If you want to enhance your P ntanal experience and money isn't a problem, a goo guide can identify animal and bird species, expl in the diverse Pantanal ecology, and take care of any assles along the way. But you don't need a guide. There's only one road to follow and the wildlife is Iard to miss.

The tourist office — (065) 322-5363 — in çuiaba has a list of local guides. The office is in the ce4iter, at Praca da Republica. The cost of a guide without a car, is very little ($20 a day) but you have to pay for their bread and board.

If language or time is a problem and money isn't, you can write to Douglas Trent of Focus Tours — (612) 892-7830—, 14821 Hillside Lane Burnsville MN 55337, USA; in Brazil, contact Focus H (031) 223-0358— at Rua Alagoas 1460/s503, Belo Horizonte, MG. Focus specializes in nature to rs and Doug is active in trying to preserve the Pantan 1. For

about $ 1000, a guide'll take you to the Hotel Santa Rosa for a week and show you the ropes. They have all the bird calls on tape, and play them over a loudspeaker to attract the real thing.

What to Bring — You can't buy anything in the Pantanal, so come prepared.

The dry season is also the cooler season. Bring attire for days that are hot, though not brutal, cool nights, rain and mosquitoes. You'll need sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat and cool clothes, sneakers or boots, light raingear, and something for the cool evenings. Mosquito relief means long pants and long-sleeved shirts, vitamin B 12 and repellent. Autan is the Brazilian brand recommended by eight out of 10 Pantaneiros, but some travelers claim that the mosquitoes have become used to it and even started to like it.

Binoculars are your best friend in the Pantanal. Bring an alarm clock to get up before sunrise and a strong flashlight to go hunting for owls and anacondas after sunset. Don't forget plenty of film, a camera, tripod and a long lens -300 mm is about right for the wildlife.

Places to Stay —Pantanal accommodation is divided into three general categories -faze ndas , pesqueiros and botels. Fazendas are ranchstyle hotels which usually have horses for hire and often boats.

Pesqueiros are hangouts for fishers, and boats and fishing gear can usually be rented from them. A botel, a contraction of boat and hotel, is a floating lodge. Reservations are needed for all accommodation, especially in July, when lots of Brazilian tourists spend their holidays there.

Unfortunately, nearly all accommodation is expensive.

It usually includes transport by plane, boat or 4WD from Corumba or Cuiaba, good food and modest lodging. More often than not, reservations are handled through a travel agent and you must pay in advance.

It's also a good idea to call ahead for weather conditions.

The rainy and dry seasons are never exact and proper conditions can make or break a trip.

Getting Around — Since the lodges are the only places to sleep, drink and eat, and public transportation doesn't exist, independent travel is difficult in the Pantanal. The cement boat that makes the run from Corumba to Caceres 39

is very infrequent. You can always try to hitch a ride on a plane with one of the local fazendeiros. Driving is less expensive, but not easy. Only a few roads reach into the periphery of the Pantanal; they are frequently closed by rains and reconstructed yearly. Only the Transpantaneira highway goes deep into the region.

Transpantaneira — It is of course impossible to know everything about travel in the Pantanal Why the Transpantaneira?

First, it's the best place to see wildlife -- especially in the meadows near the end of the road at Porto Jofre. Second, renting a car in Cuiaba and driving down the Transpantaneira is less expensive than most Pantanal excursions, which require flying, boating or hiring a guide with a 4WD. And third, if you're on a very tight budget, you can take a bus to Pocone and hitch from there (it's pretty easy) and if you have to, return to Pocone for cheap accommodation.

The Transpantaneira is the best place that I've seen in South America for observing wildlife, which is drawn to the roadway at all times of the year. During the wet season the roadway is an island, and during the dry season the ditches on either side of the road serve as artificial ponds drawing birds and game towards the tourist.

Thousands of birds appear to rush out from all sides, ocelots and capybara seem frozen by the headlights, and roadside pools are filled with hundreds of dark silhouettes and gleaming red jacare eyes. It's very easy to approach the wildlife; you can walk within spitting range of thejacare, and if you are so crazy as to go cheek to check with one you can spot the fleas which live off the lacrimal fluid oftheir eyeballs.

If you are driving from Cuiaba, get going early. Leave at 4 am and you'll reach the Transpantaneira by sunrise when the animals come to life, and have a full day's light in which to drive to Porto Jofre.

The approach road to the Transpantaneira begins in Pocone (two hours from Cuiabd) by the Texaco station. Follow the road in the direction of Hotel Aurora. The official Transpantaneira Highway Park starts 17 km south of Pocone. There's a sign and guard station (where you pay a small entry fee) at the entrance, but I've seen herds of ema, many birds and jacare well 40

before the park entrance. Thirty km down the road, stop off at Bar Figueira and meet Zico, the 'pet'

jacare.

Stopping to see wildlife and slowing down for 89 rickety little wooden bridges, it's easy to pass the whole day driving the Transpantaneira -- arriving at the expensive Hotel Santa Rosa in time for dinner soon after sunset. Weekdays are best if you're driving, as there's less traffic kicking up dust.

Hitching down the Transpantaneira is easy enough -- it's hitching back that's difficult. There aren't a lot of cars or trucks, but many stop to give rides. The best time to hitch is on weekends, when the locals drive down the Transpantaneira for a day's fishing. Make sure you get on the road early. I've done the entire route from Porto Jofre to Pocone several times with all sorts of folk: a rancher and his family, two American birders, an IBAMA park ranger, a photosafari guide, some Italian tourists, an ex -poacher and a photojournalist working on an article onjacare poaching.

Wildlife is abundant along the length of the Transpantaneira, but reaches a climax in the meadows about 10 to 20 km before Porto Jofre. The flora here is less arid, less scrubby. The birds, jacares and families of capybara scurry into the ponds along the road. I've seen several toucans, flocks of luminescent green parrots and six blue hyacinth macaws in the big trees that divide the great meadows. There are enormous flocks ofbirds and individual representatives of seemingly every species.

MATO GROSSO DO SUL CORUMBA Corumba, a port city on the Rio Paraguai and the Bolivian border, is the southern gateway to the Pantanal. Corumba, or Cidade Branca (White City), was founded and named in 1776 by Captain Luis de Albuquerque.

By 1840 it was the biggest river port in the world and boasted a dozen foreign consulates. Ships would enter the Rio de la Plata in the South Atlantic, sail up the Rio Parana to its confluence with the Rio Paraguai and then up to Corumba. The crumbling but impressive buildings along the waterfront reflect the wealth that passed through during the 19th century. With the coming ofthe railway, Corumba lost its importance as a port and went into decline.

The city is 403 km northwest of Campo Grande by road or rail. Due to its strategic location near the Paraguayan and Bolivian border (Puerto Suarez is only 19 km away). Corumba has a reputation for drug traffic, gun running and poaching. Be cautious if you come here.

Things to See & Do — Corumba's star attraction is the Pantanal and you can get a preview of it from Morro Urucum (1100 meters). Tourists looking for something different might consider a two-day trip to Forte Coimbra, which is a seven-hour boat trip south on the Rio Paraguai. In days gone by it was a key defense of the Brazilian west, and you still need permission from the Brigada Mista at Avenida General Rondon, 1735 to visit it.

Daily boat tours of the Corumba vicinity are available from all travel agencies. An all-day trip on the boat Perola do Pantanal will set you back $25 and includes lunch.

Pantanal Tours — Many budget travelers are choosing to go on cheap three to four-day tours into the Pantanal. These trips, generally costing around $20 a day, can be very rough-and-ready affairs -- try and imagine boy scouts on cachava. Accommodation is in hammocks, under thatch or in somebody's shack. Food is generally pretty good, though you must take water, and the trucks may break down.

Some of the 'guides' are ex-crocodile hunters, so their attitude towards animals leaves a lot to be desired. You'll see lots of birds and plenty of croco-

diles, but the mammals are understandably a bit shy, especially when they get chased by a truck at 80 km/h.

If you want something well organized, and riding around in the back of a pick-up truck doesn't grab you, pay a bit more and stay at a hotelfazenda for a few days. If you're prepared to take it as it comes, you might have a good time.

Before signing on with one of these trips, and certainly before parting with any cash there are a few things you should check out. Firstly, find out how far into the Pantanal you go -- it should be at least 200 km, preferably more. Then ask about the itinerary and get it in writing if possible. Is the program flexible enough to account for sudden weather changes? Check out the truck.

Does it look OK? Does it have a radio or carry a first-aid kit in case of emergency? A bite from the boca de sapo snake will kill in 30 minutes if left untreated.

You should expect to spend at least one day simply traveling deep into the Pantanal, and one day to return. Then allow at least two days for seeing wildlife at close quarters. Definitely insist on doing this on foot—vehicles should be used for access only, not for pursuit.

Your chances of enjoying the Pantanal and its wildlife are greatly increased if you go with a reputable guide who: forsakes the 'mechanical chase' approach; accompanies small groups (preferably less than five persons) on an extensive walking trip through the area for several days; camps out at night (away from drinking dens!); and takes you on walks at the optimum times to observe wildlife -- before sunrise, at dusk, and during the night. A trip along these lines will need at least four days (preferably five).

Excerpts from Brazil A Travel Survival Kit 2nd edition,

by Andrew Draffen, Deanna Swaney and Robert Strauss. For more information call Lonely Planet: (800) 2758555. Copyright 1992 Lonely Planet Publications.

Used by permission.

NEWS from BRAZIL. OCTOBER 1995

A

t the rehearsal for her show

"Aquarela do Brazil," which was performed earlier this year at the Metropolitan in Rio de Janeiro and at the Hollywood Bowl, Dionne Warwick is seating on a chair. She observes each and every bodily movement of the dancers and insists on perfection. Her album, which has the same name as the show, is playing while Brazilian and American dancers polish up their act.

It's 4 o'clock on a Sunday afternoon and they've been practicing since morning. I observe Warwick through a glass-window in a waiting area and while some of the dancers shows signs of tiredeness, the singer still seems full of energy. Dressed in the sort of clean and relaxed combination — baggy white linen pants and pullover, keds shoes — she walks towards the room and cordially introduces herself. Her politeness and friendly smile make you feel very comfortable.

"I'm very anxious to see the Brazilian reaction to what I'm trying to do," she says, in response to a question about her concert in Brazil. "It's the first time that I'm adding the Brazilian culture to my shows and I'm very excited about it."

Warwick has been traveling to Brazil since the early 60's, she even visited Brasilia when they were building it. The singer says that she knows more about the country than some of her Brazilian friends. "When I tell them about places that I've visited they go, 'Where is that?' or 'I never heard of it," she says with a smile.

Dionne confesses she NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

She ás becom many Brazi Warwick, 54, presence in the Bra personalities such as dent Roberto Marinho, (shanty towns), go nights for Brazilian sports' stars. Dionne Brazil and admiratio her to make endle shores, record an music, perform in and live in Bahia.

"God wan she CRISTI

z Ilan than r Dionne constant 'ss meeting •bo's preying favelas tograph lking to s love for ulture, led razilian razilian favela, b Brazil?

first saw the Metropolitan last year two weeks before its opening with Diana Ross. "I doubted that it would be ready for the opening," she admits, "and I don't know how they did it, but they finished it on time and they built it exceptionally well.

I've said that God lives in Brazil, I know he lives there."

After years of exploring this tropical land, watching spectacular sunsets and moonrises, savoring its food, and spending time with its people, Dionne says she felt the need to add to her work a bit of Brazilian culture, a desire that was recently fulfilled by doing what she does best, singing.

Her album Aquarela do Brasil, recorded last year, is a rich collection of Brazilian Music. In the album, Warwick sings beautifully songs of Vinicius de Moraes, Tom Jobim and Chico Buarque.

She also sings Piano da Mangueira impecably and entirely in Portuguese.

What a tour de force! The "Captives of the Heart" tune is breathtaking.

Guest crooners such as Dori Caymmi and Brenda Russell make "Flower of Bahia" and "Heart of Brazil" a pleasure to listen to, and for those who are Brazilians and away from home, "Aquarela do Brazil" the title song will for sure take you back home, as it did for me.

According to the singer, the album is a long overdue work which was the result of her "love affair" with Brazil, its people and its music.

"I love Brazil," she says in a whispering tone, "I see there so much of what we've lost here in 41

America. I see compleM families, from grandmother to grandchild and in between at the malls on Saturdays together, on Sundays at the park together. Very early in the morning I would stay in the balcony of the hotel room at the Copacabana Beach and I would see elderly people holding hands and walking on the beach, it's another type of feeling all togetheri," she explains. "Brazil is still very much about family and about hope."

There are many aspects of the Brazilian culture that impresses Dionne, but she particularly admires the people's optimism and passion for life. "I think the most important thing is that we all have problems obviously, but for whatever reasons it appears that through it all, people in Brazil still have the agility to smile, there is always .tomorrow i still. This attitude particularly captivated me."

Warwick is currently leasing a property in the Botanical Garden in Rio de :arteiro — a very prestigious location to live. "I'm planning to be living there for approximately two to three years and then I'm going to Bahia" — her favorite place in Brazil — "That's where I want to retire," said 4,Dionne with excitement. "After a while and being exposed tc so much craziness, my mind, body and heart say 'I don't like this and this is not where I want to be right now.' I have a choice to live anywhere in the world, but I never fel-. what I'm feeling for Brazil."

Any news on violence in Brazil does not bother or frighten Dionne. "I have been teasing Brazilians for putting the propaganda out to keep us out of there," she laughs. I have yet ta see any violence. I believe 'there are problems everywhere, and that's in any major city of the entire world I feel very comfortable there." In regards to the future of Brazil. Dionne is very positive about it. "I see Brazil really arising and it's a land of enormous opportunity."

Warwick doesn t only take from Brazil, she also gives.

She has adopted a fave7 a (shanty town) in Rio de Janeiro.

"The Bran AN people kave been offering me so much that I felt that it was time foi- me to give something inriturn for their hospitality and friendship. That's when I decided to adopt a favela and 'help people who are needy," she says.

"It's a great feeling to know that you can contribute for the happiness and well being of others, especially for the well being of the Brazilian children."

Among Dionne's favorite Brazilian musicians she cites such names as Ivan Lins, Chico Buarquel Caetarto Veloso, and Djavan. She is also a fan of Brazilian Cuisine and doesn't hide her love for feijoada. As for gticyria she is a voracious drinier of the soft drink, buying it in New York from Brazilian stores.

42

Virou Areia (It turned into sand) Lenine, Braulio Tavares, Dionne Warwick Oh where are the pyramids that stood in Egypt land?

Virou areia, virou areia And where are the trees, the grass, and all the earth has grown?

Virou areia, virou areia Oh where are all the hopes and dreams of all mankind Virou areia, virou areia What happened to the dreams of castles, queens and kings Virou areia, virou areia The hand of God has written that all men are free Virou areia, virou areia And where is the savior for us all Virou areia Areia — we've gone through the layers of air and sky Areia — the land is so tired that it won't give birth Areia — the trees and the grass will all die We have got to change this old m.o.

Virou areia If not it's back to sand we all will go Virou areia Cade a voz que encantava a multid5o, virou areia, virou areia Cade o passado, o presente, e a paixao, virou areia, virou areia Cade a muralha do imperador, virou areia The moon wants to hide all the sorrow we've caused the earth Barro batido subindo no ar The land is so tired it won't give birth Fazendo corn a mao urn castelo no mar Onda que se ergueu e que passou, virou areia If not it's back to sand we all will go Virou areia Tell me where are all the people who thought as one Virou areia, virou areia It's our responsibility to get things done NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

Junta Lambert

During the first Video Junia Lambert comes Music Awards promoted by from Minas Gerais, conDespite having some of the best female the Brazilian MTV in Sepfesses being influenced interpreters in the world, the Brazilian tember, Marisa Monte was by people like Led Zepthe only woman composer music is still a closed male club when pelin, Stevie Wonder remembered by the show's we talk about song composition. Some and Brazilian rocker organizers when it was time Rita Lee and remarks women, however, are crashing the gates to give them prizes. "Injusthat she has no interest and helping create a more egalitarian tice," yelled some artists, in perfecting her singmen and women alike. It's creative musical community. ing abilities. Before all, been an uphill battle for she is a composer, she female Brazilian composALESSANDRA DALEVI says. She has accumuers to get their talent recoglated a work of close to nized. In the first half of this century, for example, only 300 compositi ns, 100 of which she herself, with no two names, Dolores Duran and Chiquinha Gonzaga, modesty, cons ders first class. were able to shine among an all-male constellation of For her too getting her first album was a tour de stars. force. But the ait seems to have been worthwhile. Ar The situation has been changing faster these days de Rock, Lam ert's first CD, is a big undertaking and the number of new women authors is finally inwhich is bein released by multinational Polygram creasing promisingly. Two new proofs ofthis tendency after being rec rded in its entirety in Los Angeles with are the just-released CDs by Klai and Junia Lambert.

American mus cians only.

Both are composers and singers, Junia is particularly proud of her both have been singing for some deed that includes exclusively new time and already have a followand personal compositions: ing, and both didn't have a chance "I had many doors slammed on before to present a record the way my face. If I were only an interpreter they wanted it to be.

I wouldn't have resisted all the presAlready known from her singsure. I had no godparents. All I got it ing on Paulistano (from Sao Paulo was the result of years of effort and a city) night clubs, Klebi, whose lot of determination."

CD has simply her name, had to Another female artist who's startwait for years to be able to record ing to be known as a composer has an what and the way she wanted. "I illustrious family ofmusicians which insisted on doing an author record. includes her father Joao Gilberto, Before anything else, I'm a comher uncle Chico Buarque de Hollanda poser," she declared in a recent and her mother singer Mificha. But interview to Jornal da Tarde. She Carioca (from Rio) Bebel Gilberto, had previous offers to produce an 29, who has had a stint as actress is album but they all required that not very impressed with her own last she sing popular tunes and somename. She has even moved to New body else's compositions. The York three years ago to start a career product the way she wanted ended as singer and composer far from the up being released by the Dabliii/ blinding brightness of her family Continental recording company. name.

NEWS from BRAZIL-OCTOBER 1995

43

Composing has given new visibility to Bebel in Big Apple. The singer who started with an ecl repertoire that included bossa nova and rocker Lee, has been presenting herself at SoHo bars. °Lei ern Copacabana/Que tern tudo de bom/Tudo o que é de bem/Suco de acerola corn macli/Que vem do bem do meu bem" ("There in Copacabana/That has all that's good/Everything that's nice/Acerola juice with apple/ Which comes from my darling's goodness') are the initial verses of La em Copacabana, a song she composed with musician Towa Tei. The New York nightclub crowd has been dancing and singing to her composition in hot places like Roxy and Jackie 603s.

To the Brazilian public, Bebel's work is not that new. Her first Brazilian CD — Rebel Gilberto — was released by Warner in 1986. The album had her own compositions as well as late Cazuza's. Lack of market-ing, however, left her album almost untouched in the record stores. Bebel is in no hurry while she laboriously composes for an upcoming CD with Brazilian pop music. She is been drinking her inspiration in such fountains as Zizi Possi and Vania Bastos, both of whom, whom she considers the best female Brazilian singers alive. "Why would I sing rock with Portuguese lyrics? It has nothing to do with me."

The 90s have been very fertile with female composers. They are called Daniela Mercury, Laura Finocchiaro, Vange Leonel and Dulce Quental, Fernanda Abreu, Adriana Calcanhoto, Marisa Monte, Veronica Sabino, Fatima Guedes, Sueli Costa, Paula Toiler, Angela Ro Ro, Taciana, Luli, Lucina and Alzira Espindola.

Taciana, for example, who was part of the band Gang 90, had her first CD — "Janela dos Sonhos"

If you have seen" OBA-OBA ". ,

e • you will love this show!

("Window of eams") — released recently by the small label Natasha ecords. For her, composing is essential, since that's the ay she is able to "define a style." Despite all the problems she had to face to get her album recorded, Taciana is already busy preparing her second CD with release planned for May 1996.

And there are those singer-composers like Paulista (from Sao Paulo) Fenian& Porto who don't get a chance to record a first time even after years of proven excellence on the night-club circuit. Others decide to produce their own albums. That's what happened to Dulce Quental, who after three good solo-albums cut her ties with EMIOdeon and opted for her own recording company. Things have been hard for her, however, and she had to interrupt the recording at the mixing stage due to lack of money.

Gauche: from Rio Grande do Sul) Laura Finocchiaro was luckier with her independent flights. Composing for almost 20 years, she decided to release her own LP in 1991. As many of her colleagues she started on nightclubs. She became a household name only recently after having some of her songs included in TV Colas.3.o, a child show made for Globo TV. Now, with 15 songs for children, after having renewed the language of kids' tunes in the country, Finocchiaro intends to record a CD for children.

Ten of the twelve cuts from Zak: Duncan, a CD from 1994, were composed by Duncan herself. But she doesn't believe a singer has to compose to become interesting and be able to effectively communicate. "More important than writing(pi ' usic and lyrics," she says, "is finding yourself and scovering ways to express what you feel."

Composition or herself, however, was important. "People give your more credit and listen more attentively to you when they find out that you are the song's composer." •

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Brazilian Notas SCOTT ADAMS Brazilian pianist Manfredo Fest's new Concord Jazz release Comecar de Novo (To Begin Again), is by all accounts a masterful collection and a remarkable sequel to his 1993 release, Passarim.

invites the unexpected.

The album opens with a flowing jazz samba, -Fettucini Manfredo," with the melody shared in unison with guest harmonicist Hendrick Meurkens and son Phil Fest's guitar. It's a musical combination that is repeated throughout the album's 12 tracks and a good match for Fest' sjazzy, straightahead playing style.

The Lettermen, throw in a touch of Queen's "Bohemian Rhapsody," blend with a dash of Cirque du Soleil's theatric passion, and the jazz/pop sensibility of Manhattan Transfer or Take Six and presto!.. you have one of the most exciting Brazilian albums of the year.

Dancando pelas Som bras (Dancing in the Shadows) from Green Linnent's Xenophile label is without a doubt the best Recorded within weeks of album recorded by this group Fest, whose penchant for composition and melodic in- Jobim's death last December, in its 16-year history. The four vention has earned him a repu- Come car de Novo continues voices belonging to Ze Renato, tation for unmatched enthusi- Manfredo Fest's fondness for a Mauricio Maestro, Lourenco asm, began studying music as a Jobim melody by including two Baeta and Fernando Gama child in the southern Brazilian more here. "B 1ts-is one weave together with such pre1best, 7 beginning cision and balance that you'd city of Porto Alegre, and the Fest's sketch- swear it was just another studio quickl) made a name for himthen layaer- illusion. But Boca Livre's sucselfwithaseries of trio groups, ing tbeemrelosaoyloanOdianof m th thmmoni section hyhar including Sergio Mendes' ing cess is all original and has been build recreated hundreds of times in groundbreaking Bossa Rio. t eurkens id o- performance world-wide.

"Howr eiInand Paceca n shee theme and oo d His intriguing, jazzy style sensitive" receivespai at iah n - 4 t treatment, w ist mat has become a metaphor for a fun Dan condo pelas Sombras ..p, obirn, distinctive hybrid of Brazilian/ in chinogagj,„ stYle open's with an energetic iendithe s opening.

American jazz. You might, for tion of "Danca do Otito" (Gold instance, easily compare Fest' s Dan which finds Renato and Fest approaches h o open handed piano style to say e thenele3)aetawith vocal l _psatrt fosu°ro Oscar Peterson, George track with a quiet strength that lead the group's tight allows tit. this well-known start- , harmony.

Shearing and BillEvans, rather d y.; Renato ' flexible ,,-„ • a fresh voice^ also leads ard frotrt Ivan sins than, say Antonio Carlos i esta_o ni Milton —ascimento's J bi , all of who were early unisons "Vera influences tak finds N harmonica ment° evalve where vh°a into 'l a rock and piano once again :sharing ythinthati T thhies the melody, while the rhythm And certainly opleat; hybsriPderafoettrnd f !r Fest's eloquent Melodic inven- section provides a Solid samba Oup'Swiontemporary flair is tions and his always active left undenteatb ss disguised with the dynamic , hand invite Gothain City." And others, comparisons.

1, as ' ,...r....ada" r, ,... /knottier highlight is"Lush sue-.

But Fest has something more to (Crusade) offer: an uncanny sense of Bra- Life," the Billy Strayhorn cies- and 'Gilberto Gil 's "Oriente" to that requires little interpre- (Orient)arePerfect vehicles for zilian rhythm and syncopation. sic i These elements are so well in- .„. . _talon beyond the obvious But their smooth vocaI nteraction. ' at grained that it has led him to M nfredo Fest's d ft sSe instruct others in the nuance of adding a master s tottCh reev al "The' First Circle," penned en once again Brazilian jazz piano. astthat iio a song i s only asS by Pat Metheny and Lyle Mays good musician who illustrates the group's outward Withv Comecar de Novo, brings it to life. vision, and finds these four Fest combines several wellvoices in a wordless chant that By -comparison, Brazil's transforms the song into agrand known standards with a pair of originals. And where other pia- premiere vocal group, Boca musical adventure. Each of the nists are predictable, a new Livre, is truly world class. Take musicians has his own solo caManfredi:, Fest album always the seamless harmonizing of allowing for their“partict:

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pation in Boca Livre to continue with projects and songs that remain fresh. The combined wealth of their musical background is reflected in the composition, arranging and musical skills found in this recording.

But if we've impressed you with BocaLivre's international flavor, let's be clear about their Brazilian roots. "Zen-Vergonha.- delivered a cappella at a rapid fire pace is a surrealistic portrait of Brazilian culture and a long time favorite of the group's repertoire. And - Nuvem Cigana" (Gypsy Cloud), written for Milton Nascimento, carries all of the emotion and import of the original.

One of the most endearing moments of Dancan ,, do pelas Sombras i s song Todos Os Santos (All theThe an appeal for spiritual guidance. .: "The song had a religious m tra quality o it as I wrote tt, saidco-composer Maestro.

"When Joyce wrote the lyrics, he w inspired i red by the story f how even w hen the saints don't seem to listen, when their prayers are not answered, Brazilians still believe in the saints."

Boca Livre, which loo el translates into "Vocal,. don," has built upon the trad tion of other famous Brazilia vocal groups, including nimbi, Trio, MPB IV, Roupa Nova and of course, Os Cariocas. , But this group has a greater vision.

You may sample selected tracks from both of these albums 24 hours a day and receive a free subscription to our newsletter by calling The Brazilian Music Review Listener Line at (708) 292-4845.

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best-seller Angels in America - By Tony Kushner, directed by Iacov Hillel. Story based on aide to senator McCarthy deals with two couples one hetero and the other homosexual and the way they deal with the HIV virus.

Beckett in White - A Comedia - By Samuel Beckett. Directed

by Mauricio Lencasttre. A comedy involving a love triangle.

Corra que Papal Vem al - A gay man has his life disturbed when his father decides to make him an unannounced visit. By Ron Clark and Sam Bobrick.

Directed by Ary Fontoura.In Rio. Gilgamesh - Director Antunes Filho has based this on a poem of same name. Giplmesh, a semi-god is beautiful as his mother (a goddess) but mortal as his father (a mere man). Luis Melo plays the hero. In Sao Paulo.

0 Livro de Jo - Based on the Bible, it discusses divine intervention and God's power. Directed by Antonio Arafijo. In Sao Paulo.

Louro, Alto, Solteiro, Procura - Miguel Falabella, who wrote the text, plays all 17 characters of this comical monologue. In Rio. Na Era do Radio - Clovis Levy's play showing the changes in Brazil from the 20s to the 50s. Sergio Britto directs. With Totial Meirelles and Nildo Parente. In Rio. Nas Raias da Loucura - Name inspired by interpreter Claudia Raia.

Lyrics by Silvio de Abreu and directed by Ze Rodrix. In Rio. Noites de Cabrita Comedy directed by Bibi Ferreira. The Cabrita from the title is actress Marcia Cabrita who is the interpreter of the monologue. In,Rio. Trair e Co car E SO Comecar A loony maid makes life miserable for her bosses. Comedy directed by Attilio Ricco.

In Sao Paulo.

46

Fiction

Movies American films just released: Before Sunrise (Antes do Amanhecer), Smoke (Cortina de Fumaca), Appolo /3 (Appolo 13: Do Desastre ao Triunfo), Hideaway (0 Esconderijo),Tommy Boy (Mong & Laide), Miami Rhapsody (Casos e Casamentos), Braveheart (Coracclo Valente), Casper (Gasparzinho — Fantasminha Catnarada), Bananas Is My Business - Brazil - 1995 Directed by Helena Solberg, it tells the story of restless singer and Hollywood star Carmen Miranda. With Cynthia Adler, Eric Barreto and Leticia Monte.

Le Colonel Chabert (Coronel Chabert — Amor e Mentiras) - France - 1994 - Soldier who is officially dead comes back to his family in France and tries to get back wife and possessions.

Menino Maluquinho (Crazy Boy) - Brazil 1995 - Based on character created by cartoonist Ziraldo. Maluquinho (The Little Crazy One) goes to his grandfather's farm for a vacation when his parents get divorced.

C'Eramo Tanto Amati (Nos que nos Amavamos Tanto) - Italy - 1994 - Directed

by Ettore Scala - Three old friends to reminisce about their youth and social dreams.

Le Fils Prefere (0 Filho Preferido) - France - 1994 - Full of debts, the manager of a hotel goes to his father to ask for a loan.

Perfume de Gardenia - Brazil - 1995 - A man decides to seek revenge when wife leaves her family to become a porno star. Directed by Guilherme de Almeida Prado with Christiane Torloni, Jose Mayer and Jose Lewgoy.

Sdbado (Saturday) - Brazil 1995 - Comedy directed by Ugo Georgetti with Otavio Augusto and Maria Padilha.

A group of friends and what happens on a weekend in a Sdo Paulo old building.

o

1. 0 Mundo de Sofia - Jostein Guarder (Comp. das Letras) 2. A Profecia Celestina James Radfield (Objetiva) 3. A Camera de Gas John Grisham (Rocco) 4. Comedias da Vida Privada Luis F. Verissimo (L&PM) 5. 0 Buraco na Parede- Rubem Fonseca (Comp. das Letras) 6. Pelas Portas do Coracdo Zibia Gasparetto (Espaco, Vida & Consciencia) 7. Os Doze Mandamentos Sidney Sheldon (Record) .8. A Ilha do Dia Anterior Umberto Eco (Record) 9. Acidente Danielle Steel (Record) 10. Nada Dura Para Sempre Sidney Sheldon (Record)

Nonfiction 1. 0 Guia dos Curiosos Marcelo Duarte (Companhia das Letras) 2. Chard — o Re! do Brasil Fernando Morais (Companhia das Letras) 3. Maud, Empresdrio do Imp& rio — Jorge Caldeira (Companhia das Letras) 4. Paula Isabel Allende (Bertrand Brasil) 5. Era dos Extremos - Eric Hobsbawn (Comp. das Letras) 6. Anjos CabaliSticos Monica Buonfiglio (Oficina Cultural Esoterica) 7. Dez Anos no Mar Familia Schurmann (Reccird) 8. 0 Povo Brasileiro Darcy Ribeiro (Companhia das Letras) 9. Voce pode curar sua vida Louise L. Hay (Best Seller) 10. A Magica dos Anjos Cabalisticos - Monica Buonfiglio (Oficina Cult. Esoterica)

1

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995 I

POR Ac000 DAILY DOSE OF GLOBO Brazil is much closer now for those who read Portuguese. 0 Globo, one of the three leading Brazilian dailies, is offering a subscription plan by which readers have the paper mailed to them from the US on the same day the newspaper is published.

According to Multimedia, the US representative for 0 Globo, this is the first time that a Brazilian publication offers such a service in the United States.

Fernando Mariano, Multimedia's President, explains, "Our intention is to spread the Brazilian culture in North America. Someone living in Hawaii, for example, will be able to get the full editions of Sunday and Monday paying the same as someone who goes to a newsstand in New York." Subscribers can get the newspaper every day or one or more days they choose. Curious to know more? Call (800) 985-8588.

PORTUGUESE SPOKEN HERE With the goal of unifying the various US communities that speak Portuguese, a Brazilian group from Florida decided to create Nosso Guia (Our Guide), a database to be available on the Internet and on an yellow-pages format directory.

The project, which has been developed since 1989, is divided in three sections: 1) Yellow Pages catalogue indexed by state; 2) a list of liberal professionals even if they don't have a business, 3) an international guide, listing companies doing business with Portuguese-language countries.

Countries whose communities will be included are: Angola, Brazil, Cabo Verde, Guine-Bissau, Mocambique, Portugal, and Sao Tome and Principe.

Nosso Guia will be distributed for free in January.

Deadline to be included in the book: November 30th. For information call (305) 972-3427.

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

THE NOSTALGIA VOICE For those used to forro, axe and samba, words like coladera and morna may mean nothing. They are, however, Portuguese traditional songs which are being introduced to the US by Cesaria Evora, a native of the Cape Verde island of Sao Vicente, off the west coast of Africa. At 55, the singer recently ' has drawn more than 12,000 people to Paris's Bataclan.

They went to listen to her powerful and sexy voice interpreting soulful, longingcharged tunes. Cesciria Evora, the singer's latest release, has become an international hit going double gold in France and winning a 7th place in Portugal on Billboard Magazine's charts.

Due to her barefoot performances — something she does in solidarity with her impoverished countrymen — Evora has been called "The Barefoot Diva". In Los Angeles, the album Cesaria Evora was on KCRW radio's top-ten playlist in September. In her first major US tour, the singer will have two shows at the Luna Park, in Los Angeles, on October 7 and 8.

1

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Emphasis is on learning to speak and to understand the spoken language. A typical course (equivalent to a college semester) includes an album of 10 to 12 audio cassettes (10 to 18 hours), recorded by native-born speakers, plus a 250-page textbook.

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the only newsletter dedicated to Brazilian arts tit€,Atgoc, porby, koste, eiftefroit, Oaten, TV, 1444e, photwApAy Aft4 ifttel view, Nis Ehs(if4)

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no linha Psicodinamica • Lidera Workshops no Brasil e • Abordagem no area pessoal e de choque cultural

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PROOFREADING WRITING MAINTAINING MAILING LIST & EVERYTHING ELSE

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213 255-8062 NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

FEIRA LIVRE OPEN MARKET CLASSES

Computer classes - Groups and private classes. (818) 507-1521.

Looking tor a very fast, efficient and pleasant way to learn Brazilian Portuguese? (415) 991-3476 Portuguese classes - Individual & small groups. Relaxed, fun, but very efficient and personalized lessons. I'm a native Brazilian instructor with an university degree in languages. Try a free lesson. (415) 771-9474 Portuguese lessons - Designed for all levels, in an informal fun atmosphere. The instructor is a native speaker with Master Degree/teaching experience in the US. (415) 383-8859 COOKING

Best Selling Brazilian Cookbook

business leaders wanted with contacts in Brazil and the US. I will teach you, your family and friends how to become financially independent. Our co. is on target to do $1 billion in 95!

Complete international training.

Patricia (800) 207-5512 US/International company in

30 countries is expanding to Brazil. No experience necessary.

Will train. P/T $500- $2,000; F/ T $2,000 - $6,000 —(310) 3733681 See you at the top — Int. Co.

seeking bilingual — Portuguese a plus — with positive and outgoing attitude motivated to reach top positions working w/ quality business people. Expansion throughout California. Training available. Call (310) 214-9727

- Delightful Brazilian Cooking

JOB SOUGHT

by Eng Tie Ang. Over 130 authentic, quick and easy recipes. $14.95, plus $3.00 shipping and handling. P.O. Box 30818 - Seattle, WA 98103 - Phone and Fax (206) 789-3693.

Civil Engineer with Master's

ENTERTAINMENT

The best Brazilian dance group in San Francisco & Bay Area with the performing experience in movies, clubs and other celebrations. Video available. Call (415) 312-8667.

Degree offers services. (Substantial knowledge of computers and software.) (818) 507-1521.

MAGAZINES & NEWSPAPERS

Jornais e revistas do Brasil.

Recebemos jornais diarios etodas as principais revistas, incluindo masculinas e femininas, alem de gibis, palavras cruzadas e livros de bolso. Tel. & Fax: (617) 7870758.

Music

GENEALOGY

Family History — Discover your family's heritage! We specialize in helping you find your Brazilian and European ancestors. NOs falamos Portugues!

(801) 226-5177 JPM Family Roots.

INCOME OPPORTUNITY

Make $$$money at home! No gimmick! Send S.A.S.E to Goldberg Co. 1453 14th St. Box 275 - Santa Monica, CA 90404 JOB OFFERED

Attitude over resume — Bilingual indiv. needed to help with growth of international company.

Must be positive, business minded and money motivated.

Training and travel avail. (800) 997-6670 Bilingual Brazilian business leaders!! Are you making what you're worth? I consistently

make $15,000 a month with a 15 year old expanding international health, nutrition and weight loss co. in 27 countries. Bilingual NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

Brazilian Music in its totality.

Samba, bossa nova, chorinho, bald°, axe, and more. Merchant Express - (800) 589-5884.

PERSONAL

American businessman has lived in your country and loves your people, music, & dance.

Desires friendship/romance with Brasileira between 22-30 years.

Interests include yoga, health food, nature. Please write R.B. 1106 2nd St. #268, Encinitas, CA 92024.

American Doctor, male, seeks Brazilian lady, 18-32 for fun and romance. Must be pretty. I'm very handsome and look Brazilian. (213.) 293-8909. Los Angeles area.

American Jewish man, 36, sincere, deep, fun, active, doctor, seeks Jewish lady under 35 with brown eyes and long dark hair, in Los Angeles area. (310) 2713168.

American Plastic Surgeon. In-

ternationally recognized. Attrac-

FEIRA LIVRE RATES: 500 a word. Phone is one

word.

DISCOUNTS: For 3 times deduct 5%, for 6 times deduct

10%, for 12 times deduct 15%.

POLICY: All ads to be prepaid. Ads are accepted at our

discretion. Sorry, no credit card at this time. Your canceled check is your receipt. Please, include address and phone number, which will be kept confidential.

DEADLINE: The 15th of the month. Late material will be held for the following month if appropriate.

TO PLACE AD: Send ad with check or money order to: News from Brazil P.O. Box 42536 Los Angeles, CA 90050-0536.

tive. Athletic. Has toured Brazil.

Seeks intelligent, athletic, attractive, non smoking Brasileira who likes skin diving, aerobics, surfing, outdoor photography & cooking. Ages 22-30. Send photos and C.V. to G.M. - 2318 Washington - Great Bend, Kansas, 67530 - U.S.A. Americano: 31, handsome, secure, seeks Brazilian lady 22-32 for lasting relationship. Eu falo Portugues. Send letter and photo to Brad, 5510 Sepulveda Blvd., Apt. #212, Sherman Oaks, CA 91411.

Brasileiro, 31, bu co outros rapazes 20-35 para amizade, etc.

Los Angeles area. (213) 9698329

#179, San Francisco, CA 94103.

Sophisticated, attractive lady

with Scandinavian art degree seeks professional, attractive 4758 man — non-American, non smoker—for love eventual mar.riage. (213) 851-2767 Successful, wealthy, good-look-

ing marriage-minded romantic American comedy writer, 30, speaks a little Portuguese, seeks slender, intelligent, educated, English-speaking, nonsmoking, nonreligious brasileira in L.A. area. Note & photo to: Occupant, P.O. Box 3757, Santa Monica, CA 90408 PRINTING

Pyramid Press offers: typeset-

French American guy looking for friendship with Brazilian men 35-55. (310) 659-3119 or write: Occupant, P.O. Box 16655, Beverly Hills, CA 90209

ting, copy-editing, custom desktop publishing. Low rates! Call for estimate (310) 518-3425.

Good-looking gay American man looking for friendship with Brazilian men 18-30.1 am a successful 31 year old GWM looking for fun and romance with good-looking men. (408) 2362034 — Peter; 4960 Almaden Exp. #179; San Jose, CA 95118

Elizabete Almeida MFCC licensed psychotherapist. (310)

Handsome gay American man

wants gay male pen-pals from Rio and Brazil. Write Roberto — 1086 Post St. #309, San Francisco, CA 94109 US L.A./Ph.D. - Loyal, unny and

supportive seeks sm young Brazilian lady 35 for love and comp Write letter with phot Martin - 1107 Fair 0 South Pasadena, CA call (213) 223-6100.

PSYCHOTHERAPY

281-7536.

REAL ESTATE

BUYING, SELLING, RENTING - Let me assist you with all

your Real Estate needs. Anywhere in the U.S. through National Referral Services. Call Debora Jackson at (703) 5480700. McEnearney Associates Inc. SERVICES

loyal and age 28 to ionship. to Dr. G. s #184 91030 or

appointment only. (310) 8428628, (310) 843-1377 or (619) 965-9655

Single American rn le seeks

J. Henry Phillips, simultaneous

Brazilian women, 18 35 years old. I am 34 years old, healthy, attractive, romantic. P ease send note & photo to: 2440 16th St.

Silent's—Fine line tattoos. By

TRANSLATION & INTERP.

interpreter and ATA accredited Portuguese translator: (512) 8341941. Fax: (512) 834-0070.

49

TV & RADIO COAST TO COAST TV Beautiful Brazil - Every Saturday, 9 PM (East Coast Time) with Goulart de Andrade on the International Channel (In Portuguese with English subtitles)

BOSTON

SUNDAY 1 POMP-AWE:OBRA, ELORI 7:00 PM - Pagode at Panorama - (305) 784-8136 8:30 PM PM - Ana Robles at Zabumba

LONGv 7:00 PM - SambaLa at The Foothill 8:00 PM - 12:00 AM - Marcos Santos w/ Tropical Climate Band & Rio Revue Dancers at Club Cohiba

WEDNESDAY 4 SA 8:30 PM - Oxente at Bahia Cabana

THURSDAY 5 La

Coracao Brasileiro - Every Sunday, 12:00 noon with Dennis Miller - 88.1 FM WMBR

8:30 PM - Lula & Afro Brazil at Zabumba

CHICAGO

9:00 PM - Marcos Santos at 14 Below

The Sounds of Brazil - Every Saturday, 10:00 pm Midnight, 95.5 FM, WNUA with Scott Adams Show Brazil - Every Friday, 8.00 am - 11.00 am, 91.5 FM, WMFO with Edna Moreno Brazilian Style of Music Every Friday, 11.00 am 2.00 pm, 91.5 FM, WMFO with Marlon Data°

LOS ANGELES Sounds of Brazil - Every Thursday, Noon - 2:00 pm, KPFK, 90.7 FM with Sergio Mielniczenko Brazilian Hour - Every Saturday and Sunday, 9.00 am - 10:00 am, KXLU, 88.9 FM with Sergio Mielniczenko

MIAMI RADIO Brazilians Love Jazz - Every Sunday, 5:00 pm - 6:00 pm with Gina Martelli -93.9 - Love 94

TV BTN (Brazilian TV Network) - 11:00 pm- 1:00am, DCI ch 40, S. South ch. 51, Adelphia ch. 52, Gold Coast ch 99

SAMMIE BER 9:00 PM - Carla° & guitar at Nino's

FRIDAY 6 JOL 5:30 PM - James B. Brooke, The New York Times's Brazil Bureau Chief is guest speaker at An Evening in Brazil" at Institute of Americas - (619) 453-5560 ext 121

Senhora Aparecida at St. Mary's Cathedral - (305) 570-6755 7:00 PM - Pagode at Panorama - (305) 784-8136 7:30 PM - Cesaria Evora at Luna Park, 665 N. Robertson Blvd, W. Hol. -(310) 652-0611 8:30 PM - Ana Robles at Zabumba 7:00 PM - SambaLa at the Foothill 8:00 PM - 12:00 AM - Marcos Santos w/ Tropical Climate Band & Rio Revue Dancers at Club Cohiba

MONDAY 9 8:30 AM - 2:30 PM - Brazil Economic Conference at Omni Shoreham Hotel Call the Brazilian-American Chamber of Commerce (212) 575-9030

WEDNESDAY 11 8:30 PM - Oxente at Bahia Cabana

THURSDAY 12 9:00 PM - Carla° & guitar at Nino's

FRIDAY 13 8:00 PM - The Girls from lpanema at The Century Club 8:00 PM - Ballet Folclorico do Brasil at Scottsdale Center for the Arts -(310) 453-2492 9:30 PM - Samba School Unidos de Los Angeles at Zabumba

CENTUR 8:00 PM - The Girls from Ipanema at The Century Club

LOW 9:30 PM - Oba Oba show w/ Max Jr. & Swing Brazil at Zabumba

LOWAIKAELES 8:30 PM - Marcos Santos at Cavas/Diablos - 8384 W 3rd (213) 658-8898

SATURDAY 7 MI 2:00 PM - Carnaval Extravaganza at Ocean Drive - (305) 674-0709

LOSANGELES 8:30 PM -Cesaria Evora at Luna Park, 665 N. Robertson Blvd, W. Hot. -(310) 652-0611 9:30 PM - Samba School Unidos de Los Angeles at Zabumba

SUNDAY 8 MIAMI

9:30 PM - Oba Oba show w/ Max Jr. & Swing Brazil at Zabumba

SATURDAY 14 8:00 PM - Ballet Folclorico do Brasil at Scottsdale Center for the Arts -(310)

OS ANGELES

14 Below 1348 14th St., Santa

Monica - (310) 451-5040 Cafe Danssa - 11533 W. Pico Bl. West L.A.- (310) 478-7866 Club Cohiba- 110 Broadway Long Beach - (310) 437-7700 Foothill - 1922 Cherry Ave, Long Beach- (310) 983-9190 La Ve Lee - 12514 Ventura Studio City- (818) 980-8158 Century Club - 10131 Constellation B1.-(310) 553-6000 Zabumba -10717 Venice Blvd Culver City - (310) 841-6525

3:00 PM - Festa de Nossa 50

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

SUNDAY 15 BERKELEY 4:00 PM - Paulo Belinatti at Maybeck Recital Hall -(510) 848-4234

LOS ANGELES 2:00 PM - Dias das Criancas Party Call (818) 248-3667 8:30 PM - Ana Robles at Zabumba

POMPANO BEACH, FLOR: 7:00 PM - Pagode at Panorama - (305) 784-8136 LONG BEACH, CAL 7:00 PM - SambaLa at the Foothill 8:00 PM - 12:00 AM - Marcos Santos w/ Tropical Climate Band & Rio Revue Dancers at Club Cohiba

WEDNESDAY 18 SAN FRANCISCO 8:30 PM - Oxent at Bahia Cabana

THURSDAY 19 BERKELEY, CAL: 9:00 PM - Carla° & guitar at Nino's

FRIDAY 20 CENTURY CITY, CAL: 8:00 PM - The Girls from lpanema at The Century Club

LOS ANGELES 9:30 PM - Oba Oba show w/ Max Jr. & Swing Brazil at Zabumba

SATURDAY 21 LOS ANGELES 9:30 PM - Samba School Unidos de Los Angeles at Zabumba

SUNDAY 22 SAN FRANCISCO 4:00 PM - Paulo Belinatti at New Con-

POM ` sEACFP azORI 7:00 PM - Pagode at Panorama - (305) 784-8136 LO.S7ANGEUES 8:30 PM - Ana Robles at Zabumba 7:00 PM -SambaLa at the Foothill

LONSMIEACRICAM 8:00 PM - 12:00 AM - Marco Santos w/ Tropical Climate Ban & Rio Revue Dancers at Clu Cohiba

WEDNESDAY 25 SA 8:30 PM - Oxente at Bahia Cabana

FRIDAY 27 °ENID 8:00 PM - The Girls from lpanema at The Century Club

mow

9 :Vit

a

8:00 PM - Ballet Folclorico do Brasil at University of Idaho (310) 453-2492

LQSNEEES 9:30 PM - Oba Oba show w/ Max Jr. & Swing Brazil at Zabumba

SATURDAY 28 WIER WHO 8:00 PM - Ballet Folclorico dc Brasil at Panda Theater - (3101 453-2492

SMANGELES 9:30 PM - Samba School Unidos de Los Angeles at Zabumba

SUNDAY 29 ROM PA NOSE= HI FLO% 7:00 PM - Pagode at Panorama - (305) 784-8136

AN FRANCISCO Aioli - 469 Rush Street San Francisco- (415)2490900 Ashkenaz - 1317 San Pablo Ave -Berkeley (510)525-5054 Bahia Cabana - 1600 Market St. - S. Fco (415) 861-4202 Chambord - 152 Kearney St. S. Francisco (415) 434-3688 Nino's - 1916 Martin L. King Jr.. Berkeley (510) 845-9303 Yoshi's -6030 Claremont Ave. Oakland (510) 652-9200

NEWS from BRAZIL- OCTOBER 1995

LOSNGEEES 8:30 PM - Ana Robles at Zabumba

LQN 7:00 PM -SambaLa at the Foothill 8:00 PM - 12:00 AM - Marcos Santos w/ Tropical Climate Band & Rio Revue Dancers at Club Cohiba

MONDAY 30 CAMDI/IfEZ 8:00 PM - Ballet Folclorico do Brasil at Albertson College (310) 453-2492

TV & RADIO Luqui Corporation -Jornal Bandeirantes - 11:00 pm 1:00 am, Dynamic ch. 20, S. South ch. 41, Gold Coast ch. 44, DCI ch. 45

NEW YORK RADIO Brasil com S - Every Saturday, 9:00 PM with Judith King, 88.3 FM - WBGO Brazil Street Samba - Every Friday, 10:00 PM with Leo Costa & Alberto Lopes - 89.9 FM - WKCR Radio Amaz6nia - Every day, 6:30 PM on short wave - 6.185 MHZ

-

8:00 PM - Carlos Belinatti & Oscar Castro-Neves at Cal State Northridge (818) 885-2339 9:30 PM - Samba School Unidos de Los Angeles at Zabumba

servatory Theater - (415) 8618972 7:00 PM - Toninho Horta at California Hornoblower - (415) 864-5449

:au!ipeaa '3908- 9SZELZ 11e0.10 09006VO'V'l 9E9Z17 x09'O'dO Hew-woxioe•smau !zwq 0 !

LOS ANGELES

TV Brazil Update - Every Saturday, 3:30 PM - Channel 69 Brazilians in America-TV - Every Sunday, 5:30 PM Channel 16

SACRAMENTO California The Sounds of Brazil - Every Sunday, 11:00 pm -1:00 am, KSSJ FM, 101.9 with Scott Adams

S. FRANCISCO Agora Brasil - Every Saturday, 3:00 PM - 4:00 PM, KPFA, 94.0 FM with Elvira Cola and Eric Taller Brasileirinho - Every Wednesday, 9:30 PM, KZSC, 88.1 FM with Renato Frota Canta, Brasil - Every Sunday, 6:00 PM - 8:00 PM KKUP, 91.5 FM, with Xuxu, Maria Jose and David Heyman Programa de Domingo Every Sunday, 1:00 PM 2:00 PM, KSQQ 96.1 FM with Lino Bugatti A Taste of Brazil - Every Sunday, 10:00 PM - 11.00 PM, KKSF, 103.7 with Dick Conte Tropicalia Brasiliana - Every Friday, 8-00 PM - 9.00 PM, KUSF, 90.3 with Raimundo Franco

14/0Zem1"4

453-2492

6,43a104--t41510/L*2 LILJElathrallidEILWAILM

calendar - october 95 - us.a.

51

Boston Area Books Livraria Plenitude (800) 532-5809 Consulate Consulado G. do Brasil (617) 617-542-4000 Dentist Sylvio P. Lessa (617) 924-1882 Food & Products Aqui Brazil (617) 787-0758 Brasil Brasil (617) 561-6094 Jerry's Cachaca (617) 666-5410 Instruction Braz. & Amer. Lg. Inst.

(617) 787-7716 Music Brazil CDs (617) 524-5030 Publications The Brazilian Monthly (617) 566-3651 Restaurants Café Brazil (617) 789-5980 Tropicilia (617) 567-4422 Pampas Churrascaria (617) 661-6613

Chicago Consulate Consulado G. do Brasil (312) 464-0244 Translations Portuguese Lang. Ctr. (312) 276-6683

Los Angeles Accountant Sheila Shanker (310) 836-3436 Airlines Varig (800) GO VARIG Vasp (310) 364-0160 Arts & Crafts Bakari Art Studio (213) 938-0523 Folk Creations (310) 693-2844 Uniquely Brazil - Folk (818) 458-1474 Zebi Designs (310) 391-6530 Auto Repair Cosmo Auto Parts (213) 259-9818 Banks Banco do Brasil (213) 688-2996 Catering Joy's Catering (310) 438-3415 Remi Vila Real (818) 280-0061 Clothes Samba (310) 983-9190 Summer Brazil (310) 455-1772 Clubs & Associations Brazil-Cal. Chbr of Corn.

(310) 202-6820 52

Centro Cultural Gaucho (213) 256-6548 Clube Bras. da Calif.

(714) 857-6764 MILA - Samba School (310) 391-6098 SambaLi -Esc. de Samba (310) 983-9190 Computer Henriques - Maintenance (818) 767-5153 Consulate Brazilian Consulate (213) 651-2664 Dentists Gilberto Henriques (213) 464-0524 Jose Carlos D. Polido (714) 848-9200 Events Promotion Brazilian Nites Prod.

(818) 566-1111 Pegasus - Parties & Ent. (818) 549-0383 Ricardo Gehr (818) 831-0992 Food & Products Brazilian Market (310) 827-9139 Import/Export Brazil "R" US (310) 607-9771 N & R International (909) 626-3656 Instruction Brasil Brasil Cult. Ctr (310) 397-3667 Modern Lang. Center (310) 839-8427 Legal Services Meiojas 8c Ferraz (310) 360-0901 Music Bossa Nova - Ge6rgia (818) 891-0912 Braz. Jazz/All Occasions (310) 839-3788 Jazz - Richard Samuels (818) 798-5424 Physician Paulo Coharte (310) 285-9670 Decio Rangel (310) 828-7454 Ingrid Rodi - Gynec.

(310) 451-8144 Nilson A. Santos (213) 483-3430 Psychother/Counsel.

Elizabeth Almeida M.A. (310) 281-7536 Fatima Castro (310) 822-6770 Dr. Jefferson Si (818) 592-0402 Publications News from Brazil (213) 255-4953 Real Estate Cent. 21 - Solon Pereira (310) 633-0787 Cold. Banker-J. Freitas (818) 304-9562 Restaurants & Cafes Bossa Nova (310) 657-5070 Brazilian Tropical (714) 720-1522

By Brazil (310) 787-7520 Café Brasil (310) 837-8957 Lulu's Alibi (310) 479-6007 Pan Handler (714) 970-5826 Rio Grande (818) 376-0202

Yolie's Brazilian Steak (714) 251-0722 Zabumba (310) 841-6525 TranslationlInterp.

Brazilian Int. Affairs (310) 854-5881 Tocantins Communic.

(818) 248-3667 Travel/Tours Around the World Trl. (800) 471-6333 Brazil Air (800) 441-8515 Brazil Tours (818) 767-1200 Cheviot Hills Travel (310) 202-6264 F & H - Hotel Repres.

(800) 544-5503 Heliview - Helicopter (805)297-3691

Miami Airlines Transbrasil (800) 872-3153 Varig (800) 468-2744 Vasp (800) 732-8277 Banks Banco do Brasil (305) 358-3586 Banco Nacional (305) 372-0100 Banco Real (305) 358-2433 Banespa (305) 358-9167 Clubs & Associations ABFC- As. Bras. da (407) 354-5200 Cim. Corn. Brasil- EUA (305) 579-9030 ARARA - Amazon. As. (813) 842-3161 Consulate Consulado do Brasil (305) 285-6200 Dentists Arnaldo Souza (305) 595-3238 Hiclimo de Si (305) 262-8212 Food & Beverages All Braz. Imp. & Exp. (305) 523-8134 Guarani Esteves (305) 345-1540 Via Brasil (305) 866-7718 Physicians Dr. Jorge Macedo (305) 271-7311 Dr. Mario Sanches (305) 541-7819 Dr. Neri Franzon (305) 776-1412 Publications Florida Review (305) 374-5235 Restaurants Brazilian Tropicana (305) 781-1113 Brazilian Delight (305) 374-0032 Brazilian Pie (305) 866-1001 Cheese Bread House (305) 443-5358 Gula Gula (305) 532-3636 Travel Agencies Brazilian Wave (305) 561-3788 Discover Brazil Tours (800) 524-3666 Euroamerica (305) 358-3003

International Tours (800) 822-1318 Luma Travel (305) 374-8635 Monark Travel (305) 374-5855 New Port Tours (305) 372-5007 Venture Travel (305) 379-7678 Via Brasil Travel (305) 866-7580

New York New Jersey Books Luso-Brazilian Books (800) 727-LUSO Clubs & Associations Brazilian Ch. of Corn.

(212) 575-9030 Brazilian Corn. Bureau (212) 916-3200 Brazilian Trade Bur. (212) 224-6280 Consulate Brazilian Gen. Cons.

(212) 757-3080 Food & Products Amazonia (718) 204-1521 Coisa Nossa (201) 578-2675 Merchant Express (201) 589-5884 Publications The Brasilians (212) 382-1630 Brazilian Voice (201) 955-1137 Portugal-Brasil News (212) 228-2958 Samba Newsletter (718) 937-0574 Restaurants Brasilia (212) 869-9200 Brazil 2000 (212) 877-7730 Brazilian Pavillion (212) 758-8129 Cabana Carioca (212) 581-8088 Indigo Blues (212) 221-0033 S.O.B. (212) 243-4940 Travel Agencies Barb Tour Service (201) 313-0996 International Sandfly (718) 699-2900 Mystical Destinations (718) 956-1630 Nascente Travel (718) 545-0608 Odyssea Travel Service (212) 826-3019 Santos Dumont Int. (212) 764-5680

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53

eing lack The Brazilian black movement has had a hard time to make blacks accept their blackness. According to some estimates, 70% of Brazilians who would be called blacks in the US prefer to identify themselves as "mulato" or "moreno" (brown). And some mulatos who assume their blackness use it only to act as masters of darker negros.

JOHN BURDICK

On May 11, 1988, two days before the hundredth anniversary of the abolition of Brazilian slavery, 5,000 people marched under a punishing sun through downtown Rio de Janeiro. At the head of the march, Frei Davi, the fiery leader of Rio de Janeiro's Commission of Black Religious, Seminarians, and Priests, bellowed through a megaphone: "They say the good white masters gave us our freedom! Nonsense!" The true importance of the anniversary, he thundered, was that it reminded Brazilian blacks that they had yet to be liberated. "One hundred years without

54

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

abolition!" the crowd chanted. "We are still enslaved! Racial democracy is a lie!"

Brazil's black consciousness movement, a loosely linked collection of nearly 600 organizations, is now active in almost every state in the country. Their goal: to teach the younger generation of negros that their history and the very terms they use to describe themselves have been distorted by whites. These organizations include lay associations established by the Catholic Church, university-associated research centers, state-sponsored agencies, tightly run political bodies, and informal clusters of activists.

The Pastoral of the Negro in Duque de Caxias, a Rio suburb, was established by the progressive bishop Dom Mauro Morelli in 1986 and is now led by two priests and a dozen activists who organize workshops, disseminate literature, and run discussion groups.

The aim, as one organizer put it, is "to get negros to think differently about themselves." The first step is to teach that abolition was not a gift of the master; the second, to convince all those who call themselves "mulato" or "moreno" (brown) to call themselves "negro" (black) instead. As another explained, "We see that for every 100 negros, 70 reject their identity. So we must convince the negro to reject the ideology of 'whitening.' And the way to start is for him to call himself a negro."

Some organizations present racism as primarily a cultural problem, to be solved through the development of black identity, based on the rediscovery of one's slave and African "roots."

In Sao Paulo, for instance, the Afro-Brazilian Research Dance Company offers training in samba music, an art form derivative of African rhythms. Similarly, Sao Paulo's Center of Negro Culture and Art has tried to promote black consciousness through classes in capoeira, an AfroBrazilian martial art.

Other black consciousness organizations, however, including the Sao Paulo-based Group of Black Women, the Group Nzinga, and the Group of Unity and Black Consciousness, believe the struggle against racism must seek to change economic, social and political structures. By far the largest (and, as it happens, oldest) of the more

explicitly political groups is the Sao Paulo-based Unified Negro Movement (MNU), founded in 1978, with roughly 6,000 members today. The MNU is currently the closest the black movement comes to having a national organization. MNU's platform embraces socialism, and states that blacks constitute an underclass whose labor maintains the wealth and power of the white elite.

MNU's activists do not deny the value of raising consciousness about "roots." Their priority, however, is contemporary racial politics. They have demonstrated against police violence and fought in the courts for the enforcement of existing laws against discrimination in the workplace. They also provide logistical support to struggles for better health care, and support the rights of prostitutes, battered women and street children. During the writing of Brazil's current constitution in 1986-1988, MNU activists were instrumental in calling for a National Convention of Blacks for the Constitution, which promoted debates on the constitutional process in hundreds of towns and cities. Along with the direct pressure of Carlos Alberto Oliveira and Benedita da Silva, two black congresspeople elected in 1986, the grassroots debates undoubtedly helped bring about the inclusion of a constitutional amendment which outlawed racial discrimination.

The vocal presence of groups like the MNU has persuaded a number of political parties, from left to center, to place anti-racist planks in their platforms and create commissions on racial issues as well as to nominate blacks to run for office. In 1982 Sao Paulo's governor, Franco Montoro of the centrist Brazilian Democratic Movement Party (PMDB), created the Council for the Participation and Development of the Black Community. His equally centrist successor, Orestes Quercia, appointed several blacks to highly visible posts, and set up an office to eliminate racist hiring practices. Similarly, the desire to steal MNU's thunder prompted the federal government in 1986 to create "Palmares National Park" in Alagoas state, commemorating the great seventeenth-century community of runaway slaves.

At first glance such gestures appear to be garden-variety co-optation;

but they offer the first (admittedly limited and tentative) state-sanctioned acknowledgment that "racial democracy" is a myth. The new agencies also use their position inside the government to gain access to important resources. They have pressured the state census bureau in Sao Paulo to gather data on black employment, income and education, to publicize racial issues, and to disseminate information about blacks in newspapers, booklets and videotapes. In 1987 sao Paulo's Council for Black Participation ran Project Zumbi, an extensive program of lectures, concerts, exhibits, and public debates publicizing the historical importance of the leader of Palmares.

Despite the willingness of mainstream political parties to carry black favor, in 1982 only two out of the 54 black candidates who ran in Sao Paulo were elected, and currently there are only a handful of blacks in Congress.

Because of this, as well as to avoid dilution of their message, many black militants have called for distance from white-dominated parties; indeed, in 1982 the MNU adopted this position formally.

Still, many negro activists continue to seek alliances with progressive parties, such as the Workers Party (PT), led by Luis Inacio Lula da Silva. The PT succeeded in sending two negros to the Constituent Assembly, including the only black woman ever elected to national office, Benedita da Silva.

[In October 1994, Benedita was elected to the Senate.] Black militants are, however, wary of the PT's tendency to regard racial discrimination as the result of class oppression. In 1982, for example, the party published a pamphlet in which it denounced racism primarily as a device to maintain an army of cheap reserve labor.

Put off by this kind of analysis (which they regard as denying the primacy and specificity of the race issue), many black leaders have been attracted instead to Leonel Brizola's social democratic, populist Democratic Worker's Party (PDT), which lacks the sectarianism of the Left and has one of the best-oiled patronage machines in the country. As governor of Rio de Janeiro, Brizola placed blacks in prominent positions and, in a gesture that earned him the undying af-

fection of Rio's (mainly black) domestic workers, he prohibited employers from requiring maids to use separate stairwells and elevators. Soon thereafter, MNU firebrand Abdias do Nascimento went to Brasilia as a congressman on the PDT ticket, as did black singer Agnaldo Tim6teo.

The black movement is currently far from being the mass political phenomenon to which its militants aspire. "Ninety percent of all negros in Brazil," Frei Davi told me, "don't acknowledge their blackness; they want to forget their slave past. That is what we're up against." Even optimistic observers concede the movement has a fairly narrow social base.

Recent estimates place the number of black organizers throughout Brazil at no more than 3,000. These in turn are estimated to have only about 25,000 active followers, out of an Afro-Brazilian population that the movement estimates at over 70 million. The large number of organizations is a bit misleading. In Goias state, for example, the movement musters no more than a few dozen activists. And the 5,000 marchers who protested the centennial of abolition are less impressive when compared to the 20,000 Brizola can muster at a moment's notice, or the half million that gathered in Rio to call for direct presidential elections in 1984.

Black consciousness groups are composed primarily of professionals, intellectuals, and upwardly mobile students, a pattern that has characterized the movement from the start. In the late 1960s, the dictatorship's policy of subsidizing private universities allowed an unprecedented number of young blacks and mulatos to enter college. By the early 1970s, they faced the bitter realization that even a college degree could not outweigh the color of their skin on the job market. Among these students were many, such as well known activist and journalist Hamilton Cardoso, who turned their frustration into an organized challenge to the myth of racial democracy and its underlying institutional racism.

Middle-class blacks who see racial politics as their primary concern sometimes find themselves talking past black workers for whom race occupies a secondary (though important) place. "The guy came here all

hot," one young black worker told me about the visit to his town of an MNU militant. "You must assume your black identity,' he said. OK, fine. I assumed it, long ago. What does that get me? Does that help feed my family?" Undoubtedly such sentiments help explain why the few black candidates in Sao Paulo elected in 1982 and 1986 did not run on race-based platforms, but rather emphasized working- class issues.

Typically, the audiences for the movement's "culturalist" activities are students, professionals, journalists and middle-class artists, rather than the art form's usual consumers â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the inhabitants of the favelas or urban periphery. In Rio de Janeiro, the Institute of Research on Black Culture produces video documentaries on Afro-Brazilian religion and recreates the musical instruments and songs of the slave quarters then shows these at its downtown headquarters and at art galleries.

The way the Instituto Senghor in Porto Alegre exhorts Afro-Brazilians not to forget their ancestry is by publishing "African" poetry read primarily by university students.

Not surprisingly, the little systematic evidence available suggests that the working class is largely unaware of the movement. In one study of working-class, black voters, a majority had no opinion about the black ' consciousness movement, many had not even heard of its existence, and 90 percent could not name a contemporary black political figure.

Not only is the leadership of the black movement primarily middleclass; it also appears to be dominated

by Afro-Brazilians with comparatively light skin. In the town of Duque de Caxias, among the 24 activists I knew, no fewer than 20 admitted that before becoming involved in the movement, they had identified themselves not as â&#x20AC;˘ negro or preto (black), but as mulato or moreno (brown). Confronted with this fact, they cheerfully accepted it, explaining that their about-face was simply proof of the movement's success in raising consciousness.

Both the causes of the mulato monopoly on leadership and the tensions inherent in it are evident in the negro organization led by the progressive Catholic Church. Mulatos, given greater opportunities than their darker-skinned brothers and sisters,

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

achieve institutional positions in the Church, but then often find themselves treated as second-class citizens.

Mariana, a nun who used to call herself morena, explained,"! thought that by becoming a nun I could wipe away that blemish. But! found out that no one would let me forget it. Who do you think made coffee for visitors?

That disgusted me."

Translating this disgust into action, Mariana joined Frei Davi in his Commission. Already literate, educated and well-placed institutionally, Mariana "returned" to her "black identity" in the role of leader. Her return is typical of mulatos who, discriminated against in the white world, try to resolve the ambiguity of their status by embracing black identity while insisting on being compensated with a higher status in the black realm.

My own research showed that mulato leadership was one reason that very few dark blacks participated in Catholic consciousness-raising programs near Rio. One dark-skinned black told me, "Look, mulatos have always tried to run away from us. How could they have our culture? They want to use what we have. They don't know what they are." Another commented, "They say they are negros, but they aren't. They haven't suffered.... Mulatos still think they are better than us. They think the black man still needs to look to them as masters."

Poor and working-class blacks are not immune' to the myth of racial democracy, reinforced as it is by schoolbooks, the media, and state-slionsored rituals. But the relative scarcity of working-class negros in the contemporary black consciousness movement does not mean' such people have little "consciousness." An extraordinary variety of popular cultural practices among the black working class keep an alternative, subversive interpretation of Brazilian history and race relations alive.

In the early 1970s, large numbers of young, uneducated, underemployed youths living in Rio de Janeiro's favelas began crowding into all-night clubs to dance to the music of James Brown, Isaac Hayes, and Aretha Franklin. They filled movie houses to see films like "Wattstax," "Claudine," "Superfly," and "Shaft." Within a few years, the phenomenon had developed

NEWS from BRAZIL - OCTOBER 1995

its own lexicon of English-language phrases such as "soul" and "blackpower kids," as well as its own paraphernalia of colorful clothes and elaborate handshakes.

Though many dismissed this "soul" movement as simply cultural imperialism, it revealed acute disillusionment with elements of traditional Afro-Brazilian culture. Young blacks felt keenly what scholars had observed for some time: that traditional practices of the black community such as samba and capoeira had been co-opted by white society. Soul music, on the other hand, was perceived as the incontrovertible patrimony of North American blacks.

Anything suggesting that blacks in Brazil might have something in common with angry North American blacks could not fail to be a highly charged political phenomenon. The "soul" movement thus struck at the very heart of the myth of racial democracy, by proclaiming a transnational "pan-black" community of suffering, symbolized by the youths' clenched-fist black power salutes.

Religion is another vehicle for black consciousness. Umbanda is, along with Pentecostalism, one of the fastest-growing religions in Brazil today. In literally thousands of small ritual centers throughout the country, blacks, mulatos and whites come together to become possessed by, and seek advice from, a range of distinctively Brazilian spirits, including deceased slaves and Indians.

The most well-known version of Umbanda situates the slave at the bottom, beneath the Indian and white in the hierarchy of spirits. But this version is adhered to mainly by whites and mulatos. Blacks in Umbanda worship a spirit unrecognized by either whites or mulatos: Zumbi, one of the chiefs of Palmares, the great maroon society that survived for almost a century in the backlands of Alagoas, until it was finally destroyed by the Portuguese in 1697.

Catholicism, too, provides negros with martyrs and saints, including Anastacia, an eighteenth-century Brazilian slave, not yet canonized, who enjoys a large following among older black women. As recounted by these elderly negras, the jealous wife of a slave owner unjustly accused the virgin slave Anastasia of seducing her

husband, and forced her to wear a face-iron for the rest of her life.

Anastacia's legend embodies a sharp critique of the master class, and stands as a popular rebuttal to claims that Brazilian slave owners were kindly and paternal.

The music, dance and lyrics of samba are rich with the history and experience of Afro-Brazilians. In the shantytowns of large Brazilian cities, on Saturday afternoons and evenings, one often encounters small groups of young men under the awnings of corner bars, beating a drum, singing and dancing a sliding four-step. The music the men are singing is samba, and the small gathering is most likely a delegation from a far larger group, known as a samba "school," that organizes a major parade during Carnaval. Thousands offave/a-dwellers are members of these schools, rehearsing and practicing year-round the sambas they perform during the last Tuesday before Lent.

The music and its accompanying dance originated in slaves' melodic calls to African gods, asking them to descend into spirit mediums. In classic samba, a circle of people sing and clap their hands, while someone in the center improvises quatrains about everyday life. These improvisations provide the vehicle for subtle, ironic commentaries on race relations and society in general. Even under the military dictatorship, the samba schools commented on hyper-inflation, police violence, corruption, low wages and the foreign debt.

The black consciousness movement is contributing in important ways to the cause of racial justice in Brazil.

Still, Frei Davi's claim that "we are casting light into all the dark comers of Brazil" seems overstated. The important question may not be the accuracy of the claim, but whether the casting of light should ever be one way. Many leaders of the black movement have already begun to realize that profound change in the racial status quo will occur only when they allow the masses to shed a little light on them.

This article was originally published under the title Brazil's Black Consciousness Movement in the book Fighting for the Soul of Brazil, edited

by Kevin Danaher and Michael Shellemberger, Monthly Review Press, New York.

57

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sultants to help companies "g o worldwide." Discover everything from negotiating tactics to the best way of presenting your business card. Some topics presented: • Initial Contact • Getting Things Done • Negotiating • Reaching Agreements • Dress and Manners • Social Contact & Entertainment • Image Enhancers &Taboos Choose from: D Australia U China D France El Germany D Great Britain D Spain El Indonesia D Japan 0 Korea D Malaysia El Mexico 111 Philippines El Russia E Singapore D Thailand D United Stales select your areas of Interest, each pro.

Only: $14.95 *UM per volume S & H, or maximum $10.00 tor 4 or more programs

CRAFT & FOLK ART MUSEUM'S

A free family ter, dance making exhibitions to cel of LosmAnget

October 14 and 1 11:00 AM - 6:00 PM Hancock Park (Wilshire & Curson) Los Angeles

Parade o Masks From Wilshire at Cochran to Hancock Park Sunday, October 15 11:00AM

Information: 1

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