Brazzil - Year 10 - Number 157 - January 1999

MUSIC: MESTRE AMBROSIO FROM PERNAMBUCO TO THE WORLD www. brazzil.com

1999

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4 BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

After four years living with the new currency, the Real, and the belief that the nation had finally found a long sought-after stability it's all back to square one in Brazil. At the end of January the nation was ripe with uncertainty, fear that double or triple digit inflation will be back, and rumors. While the Real plummeted 43% percent in less than three weeks there was a small run on banks on rumors that the government was planning to freeze personal savings.

Brazil was just the latest domino to fall since Thailand broke a little over one year and a half ago followed

7

Memory Joao Pacifico, the best caipira composer ever

by East Asia and Ru • The Cardos administration seemssastiaa loss to decid what course to follow. After abandonin the real to its own fate, stopping to pro it through massive buying of dollars, th government has been raisinginteres rates to make the country more attrac tive to foreign investors.Talks with th International Monetary Fund have bee frequent and the opposition has increase its voice level.

The president's popularity has falle ion:hrn o ial e ow, Brazzil is a very smalloapY:roatrojg asperson and some volunteers who help and when they can.

The magazine is coming out a little more than a month taro and I'm sorry for that I don't see me catching u P seen, but rest assured that the content fresh and you will get all the issues you've paid f•or, Th ks d all the best. R.M

Children There are 200,000 kids waiting for a new home

29

10

11 18

Literature Patricia Melo's The Killer hits hard

22

Opinion What to do to save the Real

24

8

Cover AIDS, condom, and sex education

and people try to find an extra hole to tighten an already tight belt. "I am not the kind of man who does confiscations, who closes accounts all of a sudden. It would be a betrayal of the Brazilian people, of my past, of the millions of votes I received," said Cardoso trying to dispel fears. But nobody is saying where the country is going to get in 1999 the $50 billion it needs to service its foreign debt. And there are talks of a recession that would shrink the economy this year by 7 percent.

R.M.

CONTENT

Music A gallery of the most loved hits since 1958 Crime Hired guns thriving in the state of Alagoas

http://www.brazzilcom

Short Story "A Oeste de Nada" by Julio Cesar Monteiro Martins Cover by Sonia Pereira

34

DEPARTMENTS

Travel History and bohemians in photogenic Recife

6 Rapidinhas 16

38

Impressions A first look at hectic Sao Paulo

Letters 49

20 Economy

The Cultural

The road to a falling currency

51

Pulse Classifieds

21 Economy Brazil sneezes US has a cold

biazzil

43

Music It's forro, it's mangue, it's Mestre Ambrosio

52 That's Brazilian

54

Special The myth of race equality in Brazil TIME TO RENEW?

Send mail to: P.O. Box 50536 - Los Angeles CA 90050-0536 Ads/Editorial: (323) 255-8062 - Subscrip.: 323) 255-4953 Fax: (323) 257-3487 - Brazzil on line: http://www.brazzil.com E-mail: brazzil@brazzil.com

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reminders. Look at the label to know when your subscription ends.

Publisher and Editor: Rodney Mello / Commercial Direbtor: Leda Bittencourt Mello Entertainment Editors: Sam & Harriet Robbins / Book Review: Bondo Wyszpolski / Music Editor: Bruce Gilman BRAZZIL (ISSN 1091-868X) is published monthly by Brazzil - 2039 N. Ave. 52, Los Angeles, CA, 90042-1024. Periodicals Postage rate paid at Los Angeles, CA. Single copy sold for $2. One year subscription for 12 issues is $3 (three dollars) in the U.S., $15 in Canada and Mexico, and $18 (surface mail) in all other countries. No back issues sold. Allow 5 to 7 weeks to receive your first issue. You may quote from or reprint any of the contents with proper copyright credit. Editorial submissions are welcome. Include a SASE (self addressed and stamped envelope) if you want your material mailed back. Brazzil assumes no responsibility for any claims made by its advertisers.

POST MASTER: Send address changes to BRAZZIL - P.O. Box 50536 - Los Angeles, CA - 90050-0536 BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

5

000iriiNuor If I.

IC= Some Prosperity The latest numbers from the PNAD (Pesquisa Nacional por Amostra Domiciliar—National Research by Home Sample) are in and there are some good and not so good surprises. It reveals, for example, that more people now have access to basic public services than in the beginning of the decade. Across the country the number of houses with electricity reached 93.3% and those served by water has increased to 77.7% while 62.5% are now connected to the sewer service. Trash is being collected in 76.3% of all houses. Telephones, however, continue to be a rare item. Only 27.9% of the population has a telephone line.

The creation of the Real - and the stabilization of the currency - helped to fuel a surge on domestic appliances and gadgets.

Ninety percent of Brazilians have now radio, while 86% own a TV set.

Another 80% have a refrigerator. The number of those who own their own houses (73.7%), however, has remained practically the same since 1992, when 73.6% owned a home.

On another front, the average size of a family dropped from 3.8 to 3.5 during the period 19921997. People who are 60 or older now represent 8.6% of the population.

Compare this to 7.9% in 1992. At the same time the number of those who are 18 years old or younger has fallen from 40.1% to

e avio

Male Indiscretions Until recently G was a fledgeling gay magazine with a tiny monthly circulation and known almost exclusively to the gay public. But this anonymity has ended since the publication started to print nude pictorials of male celebrities instead of naked anonymous models. The first known name was TV actor Matheus Carriere whose presence in the pages of G boosted its circulation to 60,000 copies.

But it was the cover of the January issue that turned heads and made the Brazilian media pay attention. The magazine was able to convince Vampeta, a national soccer team star and player for Corinthians, to show it all including a frontal nude exhibiting an erect penis. The story was picked up by the mainstream media, including respected weekly newsmagazine Isto E, which reproduced some of the pictures being careful, however, to cover the offending penis with a black strip.

Vampeta (the nickname is derived from Vampire and Capeta—the devil in Portuguese—since the player's friends think he is too ugly), who is straight, did not reveal how much he received to bare it all, but it was reported that he got $80,000, close to three times as much as his monthly salary at Corinthians. The soccer idol became a kind of pioneer, being the first Brazilian player to be shown in pictures of frontal nudity. During the shooting session he was offered magazines with pictures of naked women so he would get in the right mood.

"Erection is a sine qua non," says Bauer, a photographer for G. "Some of the models become tense and take some time to get I.

6 BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

Country is Poorer UI into the right frame of m ind.

My team and I have to show sensitivity in times like that."

Since Vampeta's display another soccer star from Corinthians, Dinei, has also revealed all of his most intimate anatomy and there are rumors that next in line is movie heartthrob Djalma Limongi, who played the main character in Dj alma Limongi' s Bocage. According to G's editor, Joao Andrade, 34, his magazine's reader is not interested in the sexual preference of the model shown, but they want him to be pretty and "have a macho look."

In November, Alex Sanches, a dancer with the band Gerasamba, gave his exhibitionist show. He became the first black to model for the gay magazine. And he had no apologies afterwards: "You don't need to be gay to appear in a gay publication. One thing has nothing to do with the other. I think I'm breaking a taboo. People are approving what I've done and the repercussion has been very good." Talking about the reaction of his father, he confessed: "The old man even cried with emotion."

The presence of naked male bodies has also spread to over-the-air TV. Justaired Globo network miniseries Labirinto showed oral and more conventional sex scenes in which actors Fabio Assuncao, Andre Segatti, Marcelo Serrado, and Luciano Szafir, all took off every piece covering their pretty bodies.

NI

BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

Amid the celebrations of Christmas and New Year's few Brazilians took notice of the death of Joao Pacifico, a music great and one of Brazil's last legitimate caipira (country) composers. He has been often called he "best composer Brazilian caipira music has ever h d." The author of "Cabocla Tereza," "Chico Mulato" and "G ta d'Agua," among other musical treasures, died in G ararema in the Greater Sao Paulo from respiratory insu ficiency on December 30, 1998.

Son of an ex-slave woman, he was born in 1909 on a farm in Cordeiropolis, a town in the interior of Sao Paulo state. Only one year later he would get his birth certificate where he was registered as Joao Batista da Silva. The Pacifico epithet would come much later, in 1932, given him by an RCA executive who thought the term was a perfect description for his humble, quiet and calm demeanor.

In an interview with daily 0 Estado de S. Paulo, Assis Angelo, a journalist and an expert in popular culture agrees that the name fits well: "He was patient, calm, attentive." In one of his rare interviews' Pacifico, when asked what he expected from life, told the reporter: "Life is good, I do no harm to anyone, I drink my cachacinha (sugar cane liquor), but I would like to see everything changing a lot, everything getting calmer and more peaceful."

Angelo also talked about the importance of the composer for the Brazilian culture: "With the death of Pacifico we lose a good part of pure Brazilian music. He leaves admirers but no substitute. He invented a genre called historic tune. He was able to create a narration using a classic theme of history."

Pacifico, who went to school for a mere three years, was still a little boy when he started playing percussion in a movie theater orchestra. By age 10 he moved to Campinas, a bigger city. He continued playing, but had to find a job to survive and became a dish waSher aide at Companhia Paulista de Estrada de Ferro (Sao Paulo Railway Company). Always humble, he u§ed to talk about those hard times with humor: "I washed the dish so the dish washer could wash it. Important stuff, hum?

Top job, amazing."

It was working in the wagon restaurant Of the train that he met people that would help him in his career.

That's where he met, for example, Raul To es, the socalled Rei da Embolada (Embolada King) who, after listening to some of his poetry became long-time partner. He also met renowned poet Gu lherme de Almeida, who had a radio program and rave him a chance to show his talent and recite verses 1 ke: "Don't pay attention if you see one day that the 1-ayes have become yellow, it was longing that painte them this way."

During his career he would compose, a cording to his own estimate, close to 1,400 songs. e started a tradition of caipira music, in which the si ger would recite verses before starting to sing the sing. Inezita Barroso, Rolando Boldrin, Sergio Reis, Ton co e Tinoco are some of the famous interpreters who san Pacifico' s tunes.

After living many years in Vila Mariana a neighborhood in the south zone of Sao Paulo, Pacifi o, who was a widower, was living with friends in Guar rema at the time of his death.

37.5% of the population in the same period.

1=2

Dismantling Bureaucracy If everything works as planned the federal government will soon be losing close to 9,800 laws and codes that sometimes make federal legislation an inextricable maze where only the more savvy and persistent can find the exit.

The effort is called Consolidacao da Legislacao Federal (Federal Legislation Consolidation) and intends to reduce the thousands of federal regulations that exist today to 200 general laws.

The study for this sharp reduction was conducted by the presidency in compliance with Complementary Law Number 95, passed in February, 1998. One of the results of the trimming of the legislation is the absence in the new laws of the common-place expression: "all dispositions to the contrary are revoked."

The work was made possible by a special computer program created

by Prodasen (Centro de Informatica e Processamento de Dados do Senado—Senate's Information and Data Processing Center), which allowed the comparison among laws and regulations that exist today in every ministry and the way in which they fit with the 1988 Brazilian Constitution.

7

=12 Music for Your Years Which are the most popular songs in Brazil, the tunes that survived at least for one decade or up to eighty years and continue an enduring career still winning the public's heart and radio stations playtime?

Researchers Jairo Severiano and Zuza Homem de Mello have the answer on their two-volume book A Cancel° no Tempo (The Song in Time), which took 12 years of research and whose second volume has just been released.

The first volume came out in December 1997. The work is believed to be the most complete research ever done in Brazil on popular music and it covers songs from 1901 to 1985.

Jairo Severiano, from the state of Ceara, is an authority in Brazilian popular music, he is also a music producer, a music historian and a prolific author. His Discografia Brasileira occupies a preeminent place in any Brazilian music bibliography. Journalist Homem de Mello, from Sao Paulo, is also record producer as well as historian and a musicologist having studied at the New York Juilliard School and the Tanglewood School of Jazz.

And why have the authors excluded all tunes that came out after 1985?

Severiano explained that in an interview with Jornal do Brasil: "You need at least 10 years to be sure that certain song has really ingrained as a hit in the popular memory." The authors used several criteria to decide which songs to pick, including how many records were sold and how often they were played on radio, in movies and in dance halls. The listed songs are classified in categories and commented.

Topping the chart as the most popular composer is Roberto Carlos, who also sings his own songs and continues to be very active today. From a total of 2139 tunes selected-578 of these were also commented-75 belong to Roberto Carlos, whose oldest song in the list is "Parei na Contra Mao" (I Stopped the Wrong Way) from 1963. Seventy of these tunes were made in partnership with Erasmo Carlos.

Second place in the list with 40 hit songs is Chico Buarque, whose compositions are much richer and more elaborate Than those by the Carlos (no relationship between them) duo. The roster continues with Vinicius de Moraes (39 hit songs) and Caetano Veloso and Tom Jobim (33 each).

The first volume deals with songs that were hits from 1900 until 1957. It was a golden era for the national popular music that was played extensively in radio and movies. This latest work starts in 1958 coinciding with the bossa nova genesis.

The research included interviewing the songs' composers in a way that in 90% of cases the items covered contain information obtained directly from the authors.

There are revelations and tidbits as told by such names as Gilberto Gil, Edu Lobo, Moraes Moreira, Elba Ramalho, Caetano Veloso all talking about the behind-thescenes of their tunes.

While bossa nova is used as a watershed, the book deals also with breganejo, BRrock, Jovem Guarda, Tropicalismo, and Clube da Esquina, among other musical currents and styles.

The tunes The first volume of A Cancdo - no Tempo had analyzed and dissected such hits as An Barroso's "Aquarela do Brasil," Ataulfo Alves and Mario Lago's "Ai que Saudades da Amelia," and Joao Pernambuco and Catulo da Paixao Cearense's "Luar do Sertao".

Here's a partial list of the hits mentioned in the second volume year by year: 1958: "Chega de Saudade" by Tom Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes, "Madureira Chorou" by Carvalhinho and Julio Monteiro 1959: "Chiclete com Banana" by Gordurinha and Almira Castilho, "Dindi" by Tom and Aloisio de Oliveira, and "Manha de Carnaval" by Luis Bonfa and Antonio Maria, and "A Felicidade" by Tom Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes, composed for the film Orfeu do Carnaval (Black Orpheus).

1960: "Zelao," a socially conscious tune by Sergio Ricardo; "Coracao de Luto"

by Teixeirinha sells one million copies, a number unheard of at the time.

1961: "Ternura Antiga," by Dolores Duran and Ribamar, "Fica Comigo Esta Noite," by Adelino Moreira and Nelson Got-waives, "Insensatez" by Tom Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes.

1962: "Estao Voltando as Flores" by Paulo Soledade, "Influencia do Jazz" by Carlos Lira, "Volta por Cima" by Paulo Vanzolini, "Na Cadencia do Samba" by

Chico Buarque

I. Gil and Caetano

8 BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

Milton Nascimento

BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

Ataulfo Alves and Paulo Gesta, "Vou Ter urn irs co" (a Carnaval hit) by Arn8 Provenzano, Otolindo Lopes and Jackson do Pandeiro. Thee were also 13 foreign hits including "Et Maintenant" by Gilbert Becaud and P. Delano' and "Let's Twist Again by Kal Mann and David Appell.

1963: "Garota de Ipanema" by Torn Jobim d Vinicius de Moraes, "Mats quel•Iada" by Jorge Ben (today Jorge Benjor), "Parei na Con atnao" by Roberto Carlos, and "Samba em Prehldio" by Baden Powell and Vinicius de Ms aes.

1964: "Berimbau" by Baden Powell and Vin cuts de Moraes, "Diz que Fui por Ai" by Ze Keti and Hortensio Rocha, "0 SOlNascera" by C ola and Elton Medeiros, and "Luz Negra"

by Nelson Cavaquinho and Amancio Cardoso.

1965: "Arrastao" by Edu Lobo and Viniciu de Moraes, "Carcard" by Joao do Vale and Jose Candido, "Os Cinco Bailes da Histeria do Rio" (samba-enredo) by Silas de Oliveira, Bacalhau and Dona Ivone Lara, "Opiniao" by 6 Ken, "Pedro Pedreire by Chico Buarque de Holanda, smashing hit "Quero que Va. Tudo s ro Inferno" by Roberto and Erasmo Carlos, "Trem das Onze" by Adoniram Barbosa.

1966: "A Banda" by Chico Buarque, "Dial) ada" by Teo de Barros and Geraldo Vandre, "Louvacao" by Gilberto Gil and Torquato Neto Procissao by Gilberto Gil, "Upa Neguinho"

by Edu Lobo and Gianfrancesco Guarnieri, "Al gria, Alegria" (a Tropicalismo precursor) by Caetano Veloso, "Carolina" by Chico Buarq e, "Domingo no Parque" by Gilberto Gil, "Ponteio" by Edu Lobo and Capinam, "Mascar Negra" by Ze Kati and Hildebrand° Pereira Matos.

1967: "Quern Te Viu, Quem Te ye" and oda Viva" by Chico Buarque, "Ronda" by Paulo Vanzolini, "Travessia" by Milton Nase ento and Fernando Brant, "Vem Quente Que Eu Estou Fervendo" by Carlos Imperial and Es uardo Arafijo.

1968: "Alvorada" by Cartola, Carlos Cach ca and Herminio Bello de Carvalho; "Sabia"

by Chico Buarque; "Caminhando (Pra NA° I izer Que No Falei de Flores)" by Geraldo Vandr6; "Geleia Geral" by Gilberto Gil; "So Loco por Ti, America" by Gilberto Gil and Capinan; "Tropicana" by Caetano Veloso; "S ba do Crioulo Doido" by Sergio Porto.

1969: "Aquele Abraco" by Gilberto Gil, Atras do Trio Eletrico" by Caetano Veloso, "Charles, Anjo 45" and "Pais Tropical" by Jor e Ben, "Sinai Fechado" by Paulinho da Viola.

1970: "Azul da Cor do Mar" by Tim Maia, "Foi urn Rio Que Passou em Minha Vida" by Paulinho da Viola, "Madalena" by Ivan Lins d Ronald° Monteiro de Souza, "Pra Frente Brasil by Miguel Gustavo.

1971: "Construcao" by Chico Buarque.

1972: "Aguas de Marco" by Tom Jobitn, Perola Negra" by Luis Melodia.

1973: "Estacio Holy Estacio" by Luis Melo • ia, "Ouro de Tolo" by Raul Seixa.s, "Se Quero urn Xod6" by Dominguinhos and Anastacia, Viagem" by Joao de Aquino and Paulo Cesar Pinheiro.

1974: "Quantas Lagrimas" by Manaceia.

1975: "De Frente pro Crime," "0 Me stre- la dos Mares," and "Dois pra La, Dois pra Ca"

by Joao Bosco and Aldir Blanc; "0 Mar Sere øü" by Wando; "Fe Cega, Faca Amolada" by Milton Nascimento and Ronaldo Bastos; " onta de Areia" by Milton Nascimento and Fernando Brant.

1976: "Pavao Misterioso" by Ednardo 1977: "Maluco Beleza" by Raul Seixas and Claudio Roberto, "Romaria" by Renato Teixeira, "Saco de Feijao" by Chico Sarttan 1978: "Forca Estranha" by Caetano Ve oso, "Maria, Maria" by Milton Nascimento, "Folhetim" by Chico BuarqUe. 1979: "0 Bebado e o Equilibrista" by To o Bosco and Aldir Blanc. alho, "La Vem o Brasil Descendo a Ladeira" 1980: "Admiravel Gado Novo" by Ze

by Moraes Moreira, "Meu Bern Querer" by Javan.

1981: "Baila Comigo" by Rita Lee, "Di Branco" by Geraldo Azevedo, "Nos Banes da Vida" by Milton Nascimento, “Luiza" by T m Jobim.

1982: "Bum Bum Paticumbum Prugurun um" by Beto Sem Braco and Aluisio Machado, "Portela na Avenida" by Mauro Duarte an Paulo Cesar Pinheiro, "Tropicana" by Alceu 5r4 1,r Valenca and Vicente Barreto.

1983: "Como uma Onda" byjr4u,Santo and Nelson Mota, "Coracao de Estudante" by Milton Nascirnento and Wagner TO, "Pr Dia Nascer Feliz" by Cazuza and Frejat, "0 Amanha" by Joao Sergio.

1984: "Fullgas" by Marina Linia, and A 8nio Cicero, "Me Charria" by Lobao, "Oculos"

by Herbert Vianna, "Vai Passar" by Chico uarque and Francis Hime.

1985: "De Volta pro Aconchego" by Do inguinhos and Nando Cordel, "GeracAo CocaCola" by Renato Russo, "Papel Mache by Joao Bosco and Capinan.

anon

Murder They Cried The recent assassination of Alagoas state assembly member Ceci Cunha and three of her relatives by a hired gun has once again drawn attention to an old problem in that state: political murder without impunity. According to police the murderer was at the service of House Representative Talvane Albuquerque.

It was very symptomatic that a confessed assassin gave a press conference after being heard by the police about the case and then went calmly back home. The gunman is Mauricio Novaes, known as Chapeu de Couro (Leather Hat) who accused Talvane of trying to enlist him for the execution.

According to attorney Pedro Montenegro, a member of the FOrum Permanente Contra a Violencia em Alagoas (Permanent Forum Against Violence in Alagoas), a non-governmental group ,the legislator's assassination is an all too common occurrence in the state.

Montenegro talked about the problem in an interview with Rio's daily Jornal do Brasil: "A little before this assassination there were four other massacres all ofthem by hired guns.

In 65% of the murders committed in the state last year the police haven't even started an investigation. In Alagoas, there are people who look for a gunman as if they were visiting a dentist or a doctor."

Statistics compiled by the F6rum Permanente contra a V iolencia show that 10% or more of the murders committed in Alagoas are execution style, with the victims being tied up, hit with several shots and left in a remote location.

Alagoas senator Teotonio Vilela Filho, who was a political ally and a personal friend of Ceci Cunha, believes that impunity is the main reason for this continued situation of lawlessness. He has proposed a joint action by federal and state police to prosecute and punish this type of crime.

Political assassination hasn't spared anyone. Alagoas governor Ronaldo Lessa had his brother, police chief Ricardo Lessa, killed while investigating a murder by a gunman who entered the Intensive Care Unit of a hospital to execute a patient. Silvio Viana, chief inspector ofthe state Finance Secretariat was also gunned down by hired gunmen.

Last year the Federal Police helped chase an Alagoas military police gang, which was responsible for assassinations and bank and car robbery. As a result, 95 policemen were put in jail. Apparently, crime involving policemen has fallen dramatically. But, until recently, 80% of organized crime involved the military and civilian police.

as ion

Dressed to Kill

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• • •• • • • • • • • • • •• • • • • • • • • •

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I

Male and female prostitution is thriving in Brazil. So much so that enterprising minds are creating businesses exclusively to serve this often picky clientele. In Goiania (capital of Goias), for example, there are companies specializing in intimate apparel for transvestites and call girls. These new entrepreneurs are finding their clients through newspaper classifieds, massage parlors, strip tease nightclubs, all fertile soil for sex for cash.

As expected, the favorite colors for this kind of garment are red, black, silver and gold.

With an eye on TV and the invasion of sexshops, the new racy designers are adding gloves, masks, whips and other features to bras and panties.

Panties, by the way, are always the piece de resistance ofthe naughty clothing. They are always the dental floss style and can be opened on the sides, a requirement for strip-tease shows. One of the more sought after models is the so-called secretary panty, in which there is a strategically located front opening and a discreet pocket to carry condoms. Transvestites have more extravagant tastes and they ask for colorful garments full of flower patterns, plumes and beads.

Rogeria Regina dos Reis and Eliene Cristina Miguel are two of the new entrepreneurs whose business is booming.

"Often call girls don't stay too long in one place.

They take with them the clothes we make and talk about us. With this other girls are calling and we start selling in their towns too," said Rogeria in an interview with Goiania's daily Dicirio da Manhcl.

Odalisk and Cat Woman are the most requested model and more and more married women are also getting into the mood for kinkier underwear, according to Rogeria.

: MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM MM ••••••• •

10 BRAZZIL -JANUARY 1999

playin Safer The first cases of AIDS in Brazil we diaginosed in Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro in 983.-Today the country has one of the highest numbers of AIDS cases in the world and more t an twice as many AIDS cases than any oth r South American country. Today there is a increasing number of women, adolescents,_ nd people with a low income, low level of ducation becoming infected with HIV. 0 e way of reaching out is through communit -based HIV prevention programs and the dis ribution of condoms.

APARNA WAEGNER AND DANA MI LER

Thirteen-year old Wilson gave me a shy but kno ing smile, "Me dรก mais urn?". "Can you give me one more," the dark, s inny little kid asked me. I couldn't say, "no" to those pleading brown e es. But I wondered why he kept returning to the booth to get more co doms. I was in the Northeast of Brazil, it was June, and the Festas J nias, were about to begin. Brightly colored balloons and colored flags ecorated the street.

Smells of roasted corn and corn pudding filled the air, as thousands of townsfolk started dancing to the sounds of forro m sic.

This typical music of the interior spilled into the ight with songs that celebrate the land, the parties, and lost love. Under thatched palm leaf roof on .a dance floor made of dirt, couples danced, ingles mingled, and children laughed. It was the Festa de Sao Jolio in t e town of Cachoeira in the interior of the northeastern Brazilian State o Bahia.

"Wilson," I asked, "what are these (condom ) for anyway?" He quietly answered, "For sex.. .to not get AIDS... for p otection." Wilson let me know that he has two girlfriends, but he's only h ving sex with one of BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

them. That's why he needs the condoms. But he also shares them with friends when they need them.

To the people from the state of Bahia, or Baianos, the Festa de Sao Joao means good food, good music, and celebrating the night away. Although the Festa de Seio Joao has deeply religious roots, today the joyful atmosphere brings enormous frolicking that can mask the intense religious and cultural history.

Young people are having sex in Bahia, and one way to help them lower their chances of getting a sexually transmitted infection like HIV (human immunodeficiency virus)/AIDS (acquired immune deStudents asPnit ficiency syndrome), or unwanted pregnancy is to provide easy access to condoms during the time of need.

Like any successful Bahian party, romance and love play an important role. Unfortunately, in this time of uninhibited celebration, there comes the risk of unprotected sex. Condoms are not always available in semi-rural towns and cities of the Bahian interior, and they are often not affordable. As a result, this celebration can bring unintended consequences, such as the spread of sexually transmitted infections (STIs), like HIV, and unwanted pregnancies.

During the 1998 Festa de Sao Joao, partygoers had a helpful hand to promote safer sexual practices.. .the Condom Carnival Project (CCP)- Sao Joao. Members of the CCP-Sao Joao assembled and distributed brightly colored condom bracelets and necklaces to the general public during the three-day festival. Each brightly colored packet contained one Prudence condom, pictorial instructions and written reminders on how to use the condom correctly. The CCP-Sao Joao brought the promotion of safer-sex to the city of Cachoeira for the Festa de Silo Jo'do, 1998.

Atman International, a health education and communications consulting firm located in Los Angeles, California, coordinated the CCP-Sao Joao with support from Brazilian volunteers and with the participation of adolescents and administrators from the local schools in Cachoeira. The CCP-Sao Joao was sponsored by DKT do Brasil, the social marketing distributor of the Prudence male condom and the Reality female condom.

AIDS in Brazil Before any AIDS cases were reported in Brazil, the media was covering the "gay plague" from North America.

AIDS was considered a foreign disease; a disease of American homosexuals. As in most countries in the world, AIDS arrived in Brazil in the early 1980's. By 1983, the first cases were being diagnosed in sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, and fashion designer Markito became the first Brazilian public figure to die of AIDS-related illness. AIDS could no longer be considered a "foreign disease".

In the Americas, almost 750,000 cumulative cases of AIDS have been reported, with more than 400,000 deaths from 1986 through December of 1996, according to the Pan American Health Organization (PAHO). Brazil, the largest country in South America with a population of approximately 150 million, has one of the highest numbers of AIDS cases in the world and more than twice as many AIDS cases than any other South American country.

From 1980-1996, 140,000 cases were reported in Brazil.

, Prior to the December 1996 report from the Brazilian Ministry of Health, the total number of cases were reported between 50,000 - 80,000, demonstrating the intense increase in recent cases in Brazil. Numbers just released by the Health Ministry show that AIDS continues to be a growing problem. Between September and November of 1998, 5070 new cases of the disease were reported, 787 more than for the same period in 1997. The latest report lists a total of 145,317 cases of AIDS in the country since the disease was first detected.

This increase may be the result of more accurate identification and rrn bracelets ' reporting of the disease, in addition to the actual increase in the number of cases (U.S. Bureau of the Census, 1996; Ministerio da Sabde, 1996). An estimated 500,000 Brazilians are infected with HIV and more than 60,000 have already died from AIDS (Reuters, 1996; Ministerio da Sabde, 1996).

Current trends reflect that more women, adolescents, people with a low income, low level of education, and urban dwellers are becoming infected with HIV in Brazil in proportion to the general population. One way of reach ing out to the people in Brazil is through community-based HIV prevention programs, focasing on people who practice the highestrisk activities and receive little or no education about protecting themselves.

Condom use Condom use during sexual intercourse is the most effective way to reduce brie's risk of acqu iring HIV sexually. Data indicating condom use among different populations in Brazil are limited though. Most studies have been done by agencies interestedin assessing condom use as a method of contraception as opposed to condom use a method of disease prevention.

In 1996, the rate for condom use as a method of contraception for Brazilian women, ages 15-49 and in union, was measured at 4.4%, and was 5.2% for men in union in this age group, according toBEMFAM. In the United States, the U.S. Survey of Family Growth found that 13% of women in union, ages 15-44, and 14% of unmarried women, rely on condoms for birth control. One reason for low condom use in Brazil could be the high prevalence of female sterilization (44%) and the use of oral contraceptives (41%).

Despite the low rates of condom use in Brazil compared to the U.S., an increase in condom sales and the implementation of sex educatibn programs suggest a positive change in addressing HIV/AIDS prevention. Condom use and promotion have been steadily increasing in Salvador, as in most of Brazil, in response to the growing number of HIV infections and deaths due to AIDS. However, several studies suggest infrequent and inconsistent condom use among adolescents, even when their knowledge about HIV and AIDS is high . There are many significant barriers to condom use among adolescents in Brazil, such as high-cost, lack of availability, social acceptability, knowledge about condom use, and low self-perception of being at risk for HIV. In a study that was presented at the XI International Conference on AIDS, in 1996, Rosalina Carvalho Silva presented her findings on the knowledge, attitudes, beliefs -II

'.

12 ZIL - JANUARY 1999

and practices about AIDS among 499 adolescents, 13 to 20 years old, in the state of Sao Paulo. Most of the adolescents demonstrated a high knowledge of AIDS transmission (approximately 90% answered the questions correctly) and presented a positive attitude about condoms (62%), yet only 32.2% reported consistent condom use, and 24% had never even used a condom.

Results from the survey revealed the most common reasons why respondents did not use condoms were due to their beliefs that they were with a steady partner and thus had no risk of AIDS (60.9%), and when two people love each other the risk is low (35%). Therefore, it is evident that knowledge about condoms and HIV/AIDS is not sufficient to produce changes in behavior.

Underserved Less-populated towns in the interior of many Brazilian states are often omitted from large urban-centered HIV/ AIDS prevention campaigns leaving inhabitants without the skills and products needed to practice healthy sexual behavior. Obtaining funds to create and implement sex education programs in the interior is difficult because funders are often more interested in supporting projects that reach a larger number of people. However, this population cannot and should not be ignored.

The northeast of Brazil is the poorest region in the country. Rates of contraception use are lowest in the northeast and the poverty rate is among the highest. Bahia is the largest and most populated state in the northeast of Brazil.

Many young people in Bahia are at special risk of getting infected with HIV or other sexually transmitted infections and unintentional pregnancy due to limited financial resources, little or no education and high rates of sexual activity. These adolescents have a lot to gain by learning more about HIV/AIDS prevention and family planning through community-based programs. In particular, lowerincome people living in the interior towns of the northeast are confronted with higher prices for condoms and less accessibility.

Lori Miller, the Atman International Project Coordinator for CCP-Sao Joao agrees, "Today, people in urban areas are exposed to more educational materials, such as the Bahian Ministry of Health HIV/AIDS prevention and condom promotion campaigns. People in the interior do not have the same opportunities to hear these messages. Conducting this condom project during festivals ofthe interior can spread the message of HIV/AIDS prevention and condom use to residents of these smaller communities."

The Project Popular street festivals in Brazil create an atmosphere in which people let loose of all inhibitions and celebrate life by dancing, drinking, and often engaging in sexual activities with non-steady partners. Safer sex messages can be integrated into the folio (frolicking) of festival through songs, posters, billboards, and colorfully decorated condoms.

One of the biggest festivals in the northeast of Brazil, the Festa de Silo Joao, takes place in many small northeastern towns; each offering something unique. One of these towns is Cachoeira, located about 50 miles from Salvador, the capital of Bahia. Cachoeira was chosen as the site for the first CCP-Sao Joao because of its popularity to attract many visitors, attentiveness to reduce injuries by declaring fireworks illegal, and due to the enthusiasm and cooperation of the Secretary of Education and the public school system.

The CCP was implemented in Cachoeira to educate a

large numbeil of people from boti the interior towns arid the surrounding dities during the popular street festival. Another goal of the project is to e ourage local partic pants to reach out to other community meinbers in efforts to pijevent disease transm ssion.

Lori Mille and her friend, RI onda Brown, first c ncepP in tualized the 1993. Lori ex lains, "When Rhond and I were living in Salvador, Bahia in 1992, we noticed th t there were few Al S prevention cam aigns, despite the inc easing incidence o HIV/ „ t AIDS. We de eloped the CCP to omote safer sexual p actices prior to and duffing the carefree stre t festivals."

Brazilia youth are ofspecial oncern to Miller, and e CCP young educates people about afer sex through a s ries of interactive a tivities.

"There are t ousands of adolesce ts who are sexuall active and under ducated about the ris s of unsafe sex. W want to concentrate in young adults and adolescents becau e this is the time w n habits regarding s xual activity and co dom use are formin ," Miller explained.

CP-Sao The Joao was aomprised of two ma components: inte ctive sex education ctivities, and a larger scale promotion of ,safer sex through co dom proe interacmotion. tive com onent of CCP-Sao Joao fo13

BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

1 cused on low-income adolescents, while the mass communiity. The pharmacy was the most commonly reported place cation of safer sex messages were geared toward people of (53%), followed by mobile health units (16%), friends every age and background attending the festival in the town (11%), health clinics (7%), and street vendors (2%). of Cachoeira.

People who reported that condoms are "very easy" to Thirty-five adolescents from public schools in and around obtain increased after participating in CCP (from 43.3% to Cachoeira participated in the interactive educational compo52.4%). Participants who reported that condoms are "very nent of the CCP. Activities included discussions, videos, difficult" to obtain decreased from 36.7% to 9.5%. Thus, small group work, and role-plays. Issues were brought up to participating in CCP seemed to positively impact the adolesaddress self-esteem, human sexuality and condom use. The cents knowledge of where to obtain condoms.

CCP enables adolescents to take an active role in their , Oftentimes, adolescents say they plan on using a conlearning, and to share information they acquire with peers. dom, but in the moment of passion, especially with a partner One interactive activity had adolescents learn how to 6r4 who doesn't want to use one, they end up having unprotected rectly apply and remove condoms using a model penis. sex, perhaps because they lack the skills of negotiating Other sessions had adolescents act out "condom negotiacondom use. After participating in the CCP, adolescents tion", the process of telling a potential partner about condoms reported an increase in their comfort level when negotiating and intent to use them. The Reality female condom was also condom use with a partner (participants who felt only "someintroduced, presented and demonstrated using a female what comfortable" increased from 6.1% to 14.3%, and genitalia model. participants who felt "somewhat uncomfortable" decreased As part of the sex education program, adolescents made from 45.5% to 38.1%). more than 2,000 condom bracelets and necklaces for distriParticipants' responses revealed that adolescents over 16 bution at the Festa de Silo Joao. The bracelet and necklace years of age feel more comfortable negotiating condom use making activities created a fun and educational environment with a partner than their younger counterparts. The level of that fostered safer sex discussions among the adolescents confidence respondents expressed in using a condom inand health educators. creased after participating in CCP. Respondents who re"The bracelets and necklaces are a fun and convenient ported using condoms with "a lot of doubt" or "with diffiway to keep a condom available at a crowded festa, and to , culty" dropped (20% to 14.3% and 10% to 4.8% respecspread the message of safer sex," Miller said. tively).

The condom bracelet is covered in transparent contact Another significant change after adolescents participaper to keep the condom protected and dry. It can be worn pated in the CCP was an increase in the number of responas a necklace under clothing in case of rain, or it can be worn dents who had talked with their friends about condom use in around your wrist as a bracelet. Condom necklaces and the past month. Before the CCP, the number of people who bracelets come in bright yellow, green, and blue—perfect for said they had spoken with friends about condom use was a Brazilian-style festa!

47%. After the CCP, the proportion of participants who Adolescent volunteers from the Santa Monica Police talked about using condoms with their friends jumped to Activities League (PAL) in California made an additional 90%.

600 bracelets which were brought to Brazil, forming a The increase in discussion about condom use amongst unique cross-cultural partnership in which adolescents in the friends suggests that CCP participants passed along the USA and Brazil worked in a similar capacity in the fight information they received to their friends who were not CCP against AIDS. CCP staff and volunteers distributed approxiparticipants; thus, spreading the message of safer sex. This mately 10,000 condoms in total. direct sharing of information shows that even those adolesResults cents who do not directly participate in the CCP may benefit Before the education sessions, each participant responded from the project by learning from their peers who do particito a questionnaire about his or her knowledge, attitudes and pate. practices of condom use. This same questionnaire was adThese data suggest that continued education among ministered a second time to the same adolescents after they adolescents in Cachoeira, as well as in other cities in the participated in the CCP-Sao Joao and the festival. interior of Bahia, would improve self-esteem and responFrom the first questionnaire, 26.5% of the thirty-one sible sexual behavior. Future sex education projects are participants were sexually active. The average age ofparticineeded to examine the program's effect overtime, to monipants when they had sex for the first time was 15.3 years old, tor progress, and t help determine the best educational and the majority reported being techniques. between 13-15 years old. Of the And Now? participants who are sexually The CCP-Sao Joao provided active, the majority (55.6%) reinformation on sexual behavported they used a condom the ior and condom use trends last time they had sex. among a selected group of adoMost participants (87.7%) lescents in Cachoeira, Bahia. It responded they intended to use a is important to study behavcondom in the future; however, ioral trends in HIV/AIDS, and reasons for not using condoms other public health problems, included: disliking condoms, to help us understand how and trusting their partner, being emwhy people practice high-risk barrassed, being in love, and not behaviors. having a condom available. It is A better understanding of important to understand why Condom distribution by volunteers these behaviors offers suggesadolescents do not use condoms tions for interventions aimed at because this information can help preventing the further spread health educators integrate the needed information into the of disease. For example, many adolescents who participated programs. in the CCP reported using condoms for protection and Adolescents were asked about how they obtain condoms prevention, but they could not accurately describe from to determine knowledge and logistics of condom accessibilwhich diseases in particular they were protecting them14 BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

selves. This result suggests the need for more education about sexually transmitted infections and HIV/AIDS. The success of the CCP in promoting safer sex was largely due to collaborative efforts between the community, school system, Atman International, DKT do Brasil and the media. The involvement of different community outlets resulted in a successful condom promotion campaign that reached a large number of people.

Collaboration is especially important for smaller non-urban towns that are often overlooked by the state-sponsored health education programs found in more populated cities. A greater collaborative effort involving numerous community and corporate entities can successfully impact public health by providing a clear, targeted message.

Individuals need correct and consistent messages to help them build healthy behavior habits.

Hopefully, the future will hold support for more creative community-based sex education programs.

The fight against the spread of STIs such as HIV/AIDS, and unwanted pregnancy requires continued condom promotion and efforts to reduce high-risk behaviors. HIV/AIDS is a disease that requires people to be informed with the facts concerning transmission and prevention. The CCP project does not intend to promote discrimination against people with AIDS. It is the intention of Atman International to increase support for healthy behaviors, and create solidarity in the fight against the spread of this disease.

In order to contribute to decreasing the spread of STIs such as HIV/AIDS, it is necessary for individuals to adjust their beliefs and values to reflect the facts. We all need to recognize the threat of HIV/AIDS rather than viewing the disease as something, "that can't happen to me".

Communities need to support their children's education about sex and condom usage. Adult community members also need to educate themselves about high-risk behaviors.

Finally, it is necessary for the government to be supportive of community-based sex education programs and provide more health/medical services.

For questions concerning this article or for additional information on CCP Projects and Atman International contact Lori Miller, Director Community Programs at (310) 573-2127.

Bibliography: Lori Miller's Thesis, "Effects of an Interactive Sex Education Activity on Knowledge, Attitudes and Practices of Condom Use Among Low-Income Adolescents in Salvador, Bahia, Brazil", 1997. Rollins School of Public Health of Emory University, Atlanta, Georgia.

Barbosa, R.M., Lago, T.G., Klackman, S., and Villela, W.V. (1996). Sexuality and Reproductive Health Care in Sao Paulo, Brazil. Health Care for Women International. 17: 413-421, 1996.

Barros, R, Fox, L., Mendonca, R. (1993). Female-Headed Households, Poverty, and the Welfare of Children in Urban Brazil. Project of the Population Council and the International Center for Research on Women. September 1993.

BEMFAM (1997). The 1996 Democratic and Health Survey in Brasil. Bem-Estar Familia.

Cromack, Luiza, Barros, C., Castro, D., Goncalves, F., Fernandes, M.E.L. (1996). Should we Distribute Condom to Adolescents? The Experience in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

Abstract from t e XI International Conference on AIDS in Vancouver, Ca ada.

Informactie Basicas dos Municipios Baianos (1994).

Govern° do Estado da Bahia. Secretaria do Planejamento, Ciencia e Tecnalogia. Convenio CONDER/DEI. Salvador, Bahia, 1994.

Internation 1 Primary Health Care Conference (1994).

Poor Most at Ri k from AIDS. Nursing Times, 90(2), 8 June 1994.

Mann, J., Tarantola, D., andNetter, T.W. (1992). AIDS in the World. Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press.

Ministerio da Safide (1996). Secretaria de Assistencia a Sande Programa Nacional de DST/AIDS. 1° Congresso Nacional de Prevencao das DST/AIDS. 18-20/ 12/96.

Miranda, R. (1996). AIDS Avanca entre os menos informados. 0 Globo (December 7, 1996). Article on the First Congresso Brasileiro de Prevencdo da AIDS. National enter of Health Statistics (NCHS) (1997).

United States National Survey of Family Growth.

Pan Ame ican Health Organization (1997). Division of Disease Prey ntion and Control, AIDS/STD Program HCP/ HCA. PAHO E idemiolo Bulletin, Volume 18, Number 1, 1997.

Pinto, J., Ruff, A., Paiva, J., Antunes, C., Adams, I., Halsey, N., d Greco, D. (1994). HIV Risk Behavior and Medical Sta s of Underprivileged Youths in Belo Horizonte, Brazil. Journ 1 of Adolescent Health, 15, 179-185.

Profit- P omoting Financial Investments and Transfers (1992). Cou try Assessment: Brazil, 1992.

Rafaelli, M., Campos R., Merritt, A.P., Siqueria, E., Antunes, C. ., Parker, R., Greco, M., Greco, D., Halsey, N., and the Stre Youth Survey Group (1993). Sexual Practices and Attitud s of Street Youth in Belo Horizonte, Brazil.

Social Scien e Medicine, 37 (5), 661-670.

Raffaelli M., Siqueira, E., Merritt, A.D., Campos, R., Ude, W., Gr co, M., Greco, D., Ruff, A., Halsey, N. and the Street Yout Study Group (1995). HIV-Related Knowledge and Risk B haviors of Street Youth in Belo Horizonte, Brazil. AID. Education and Prevention 7(4):287-297.

Reuter orth American Wire (1996). "Brazil Launches AIDS Media Blitz for Carnival". February 7, 1996.

Silva R C. (1996). Knowledge, Attitudes, Belief and Practices about AIDS Among Adolescents. Abstracts from the XI Inte ational Conference on AIDS in Vancouver Canada, l96.

Souza, .P., Almeida, A.B., Wagner, M.B., Zimerman, I.E., Alme a, S.B., Caleffi, A., and Puperi, F (1993). A Study of th Sexual Behavior of Teenagers in South Brazil.

Journal of dolescent Health. 14: 336-339.

U.S. B reau of the Census (1996). Population Division, Internatio al Programs Center. HIV/AIDS Surveillance Database. une, 1996 A arna Waeger will complete her Masters degree in

Public Health at UCLA in 1998.

Dana Miller received her Bachelor of Science degree in health sciences at Duke University in 1997.

For more information on Atman International, contact Sylva Dvorak at 310-573-2127, or by fax at 310-573-1288 15

BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

Letters HOW DARE VA? Ion y ave one question torn.e: W y do you make Brazil look s0000 disgusting?!? All the women are always naked and the songs are always the worst. You should be ashamed of putting these kinds of things in your magazine as if the US didn't have these things. I guess you haven't been watching the Jerry Springer show lately!

Via Internet Xalinca@,aoLcom

WHAT ABOUT THE KIDS? I am very. concerne or t e sa ety, eat, education, civil rights, housing, and nutrition of street children in Brazil, Honduras, Guatemala, and Nicaragua. I would like more current information about them and how we all can help. The economic crisis in Brazil may place street children in further peril. Apathy and feelings of hopelessness and powerlessness in the face of human suffering and persecution are truly deadly forces in this world! Jam also very concerned for gay street children.

Richard E. Shannahan, Jr. Lutherville, Maryland TOPS owe ruce Gilman the best interview of my life. ("Persistence of Vision," December 1998, on Kuarup record company). I got the magazine and I was very pleased with the result. Thank you very much for the treatment given to the copy. Perfect.

Mario de Aratanha Kuarup founder and owner Rio de Janeiro, Brazil GRATEFUL MEMORIES I enjoyed very much reading Kirsten Weinoldt article about bossa nova. remember being young when it all started. Mother did not like it and called it "bosta nova." She preferred our Gaucho music anyway. Thanks for printing. the lyrics of the main songs.

They are so innocent, especially when compared to the garbage they write today. I wonder why the lyrics in English are so different and in many cases not so pretty. A very well done article indeed. Thanks, Kirsten! I enjoyed her article on Vove also.

Geoniora G. Oliveira Fountain Valley, California

kind of patience when I visit. Please let me know if he has other articles on Brazil and how I can access them, will you?

Teresa Kratzer Tarzana, California

FOOD FOR FILM

AMUSED CARIOCA I'm 17 years old ano I live in do Conrado, Rio de Janeiro. I was searching for some information about Brazilian politics in English for my American friend. And fortunately, I found John Miller's nice and funny article on Rio. Most of the foreigners here seem to be scared about the city. But he can make those usual facts from our city be something fun to read.

Rio has so many problems, but when I go to the beach, or talk to my Carioca friends, it feels like I'm in paradise. It's a paradox.

Andre Arruda Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

I' m an American living in Las Vegas. I m visiting an old girlfriend in Rio in June for three weeks. I Just wanted to tell how much I enjoyed John Miller's article on Rio, especially about the ca.ipirinha.I used to hang out with Mel i (my girlfriend) and other Brazilians when Hived in Philadelphia with her. They love to drink!

Eric Hoffman Las Vegas, Nevada

NO PICS, PLEASE I reallylike your magazine. I spent a coup e of years living in Rio Grande do Sul and appreciate the opportunity to keep up on what's going on in Brazil. I get your magazine through Pointc.ast at work. My only complaint is the Rapidinhas section. Standards ofpornography are more strict in the USA, and that section often contains_pictures containing nudity. I realize that in Brazil it's no problem, but my employer here would have a big problem with it. I would prefer to see that section appear without photos, at least on the Pointcast version. Thanks again for the news and information you provide.

John Green Salt Lake City, Utah

Chris McGowan Los Angeles, California DELIGHTED CARIOCA I am a native Carioca living in Los Angeles for 18'/2_ years. I have just read John Miller's article "Flow to Become a Carioca" and must say am delighted with his impressions of Rio. I found them to be very truthful, with a great sense of humor. He seems to have captured the essence of Rio with a light and curious approach rather than critical.

Perhaps because he knows this is a temporary situation? I sure no longer have the same You are invited to participate in this dialogue.

Write to: Letters to the Publisher P.O.Box 50536 Los Angeles, CA 90050-0536 or send E-mail to: brazziNibrazziLcom Please, include a phone number in the e‘ent sue need to reach you. Thanks!

I ope you on t min me contacting you out of the blue. I arri based in Paris, France and I am researching for a French documentary film information on the Villas Boas brothers. I found a couple of very interesting articles on them among your Web pages dating 1998 but I wondered whether you had an article on their whole action since the Roncador-Xingu expedition. Ifyou don't, which source can I contact?

Catherine Piante Paris, France A SHEPHERD FOR THE TIMES I a ways enjoy Brazzi , it is t e west ezine on the Net. I was heartened by Priest Marcelo Rossi. This is what the Church needs so very much. This is the hope of the Church, priests like this. Thank you for your continuing superb job. Truly the treasure of the Internet is Brazzil!

Via Internet HolyOneca)nightmaiLcom

SEARCH IS OVER It was about time we had a magazine all about Brazil (in English). Many times, I look for information about Brazil to pass it on to curious American friends, but it all ends up in frustration. Congratulations for the idea.

Jorge Ferreira Pikeville, North Carolina PROPOSAL

I own a group of small communication companies, including The Brazilian (hap:!! www.thebrazilian.com). Since we apparently have the same target but do not compete directly with each other, I was wondering if you'd like to make an informal partnership.

We could exchange links between our sites and later try to develop some promotion together.

Marcel Leal marcel@geocities.com

FACT OF FICTION? I ave rea o a woman o B la name Mae Zeferina in the early 1800s who supposedly led a Yoruba community in a slave revolt.

I have not been able to find anymore information on her and am beginning to believe that she was simply made up. Would anyone happen to know anything about this individual? I am seeking to conduct research on Caribbean and Brazilian Female Freedom Fighters who either led slave revolts or liberation raids on plantations. Any assistance would be much appreciated.

.KUDOS FOR ILE I just saw Kirsten Weinoldt's lie Aiye article in Brazzil magazine and wanted to say I really liked it. And it's nice to see them getting coverage in English. I added a link to the piece on the -Brazilian Artists" page in the \APB Zone web site.

Djehuti Su ndaka ahuguleya.i.t netco m. corn

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angang Boo Patricia Melo has a strippeddown, straightforward style, and she pumps out words the way, a gunman sprays bullets. With The Killer it's as much like watching a movie as reading a book.

BON DO VVYSZPOLSKI

"Before we're born, somebody, I don't know who, God maybe, God defines exactly how he's going to fuck with our lives... God only thinks about people when he has to decide how he's going to destroy them. When he's pressed for time, he comes up with a war or a hurricane and kills them in droves, without having to give any thought at all. With me, he gave it some thought."

Maiquel loses a soccer bet and dyes his hair blond. He'll need a new wardrobe now, so he goes shopping and hits up on the green salesgirl, Cledir.

An acquaintance of his named Suel comments on the new 'gringo' look and Maiquel takes offense.

A minor incident gets out of hand and Suel gets a bullet in the back, another in the head.

Nobody mourns the victim except his 15-yearold girlfriend, Erica. Meanwhile, Maiquel is being lauded; you'd think he'd slain a dragon. When he goes to a dentist because of a persistent toothache, Maiquel is told that he needs lots of dental work.

Dr. Carvalho says he'll do it all for free if Maiquel knocks off the guy who raped his daughter.

Victim number two doesn't seem like such a bad apple, but Maiquel accepts the offer, botches but carries out the deed, and now he's the biggest hot shot in town.

Having nowhere to go, Suel's girlfriend Erica shows up and plants herself in Maiquel's house. In addition, Cledir reappears after being date-raped

by Maiquel, and she's pregnant.

Sao Paulo author Patricia Melo has a strippeddown, straightforward style, and she pumps out words the way a gunman sprays bullets. The expression 'cinematic' is overused, but with The Killer it's as much like watching a movie as reading a book.

There are more offers from Dr. Carvalho and his cronies: they're fed up with being robbed, with the rampant crime in society that nobody's doing anything about. But Maiquel says no, or at least tries to. What he wants is to marry Cledir, be a dad, get a normal job, and buy a house that'll also have a room for Erica.

In the meantime, Maiquel remains a hired 18 BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

hand, knocking off petty thieves (many of them poor black teenagers), his strings pulled by scared middle-class businessmen.

Maiquel reminds this reader of the anti-heroes in the writings of Oswaldo Franca, Junior (The Long Haul; The Man in the Monkey Suit), J. G. Noll (Hotel Atlantico), and even Rubem Fonseca ( Vast Emotions and Imperfect Thoughts), whose characters drift, ramble, and are so often buffeted by the vagaries of fate.

Although it's hard to imagine the Sao Paulo Chamber of Commerce sending copies to potential visitors, The Killer is a heady, exhilarating ride that doesn't run out of steam. Sure, its direct punch and frank brutality will not be everyone's cup of tea, but those who pick up the book will learn one thing pretty quick: Melo delivers.

Excerpt: In the distance, I saw the scene. The prisoner's hands and feet were tied, his pants around his ankles. I'm going to give you a plate of shit, Ze Galinha said, if you eat it, you go free. It wasn't the first time Z'd Galinha had dreamed up such things. I walked faster.

Enoque was holding the plate with the sack of shit, it's all here, he told Ze Galinha.

I quickly untied Conan's hands. What's the deal, Maiquel, let me finish my work.

He's going to eat shit with a spoon, Maiquel, and you're going to let me do it.

Nobody's eating shit, I said. Put your clothes on, I told Conan. Conan was trembling so much he couldn't even get his pants on. I helped him, fastened his belt. Ze Galinha wouldn't stop talking, goddamn right he's going to eat shit, Ze Galinha said, he's going to, he's going to do it, I didn't set up this circus for nothing, I didn't shit in that plastic bag for fun, that son of a bitch is going to eat shit, yessir, he sure as hell is. I grabbed the plate out of a Galinha's hands and threw it as far as I could, what's wrong, Maiquel? Just look, you got shit on my shoes, he said, you got my pants dirty with shit, man. What's the matter, you feel bad for Conan? Is that what it is? I've had it up to here with you man, what're you thinking, who you think you are, man? You're a piece of shit, that's what you are. A piece of shit, he said. I took out the gun and fired, hit him in the head. Ze Galinha fell dead.

Marcao and Enoque avoided looking at me.

Conan was trembling, thank you, he said.

Conan also avoided looking me in the eye. He was looking at my shoes, as if God were there, my shoe with its little gold chain. I shot Conan three times in the head.

Is BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

19

What's Real with the Real?

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What really happened in Brazil since the Real came under attack by currency speculators in early fall?

President Cardoso was re-elected for a second term. He then re-appointed most of his previous ministers with a word of advise that "if they do not vote (for the government's agenda), they do not support The government,• if they do not support the government then they can't be in the government". Things have been exiguously chan_ging toward a more secure futurein Brazil in the last months though.

BASIL M KARATZAS When Russia devalued its ruble, world markets—the ones not affected yet by the Asian contagion that is, started unraveling under the fear that the Asian flu could not be contained in the Pacific Rim. However, every sophisticated investor knew that Russia's importance was greatly exaggerated given the size and impact of its economy to the world economies.

When Brazil's Real came under attack by currency speculators in early fall, investors came to believe that world economies were in trouble. Default on Brazil's $200 billion debt would have incited a domino effect that would bring down Latin economies (20% of Brazil's trade), Europe (24% of Brazil's trade is with the European Union) and eventually US (17% of Brazil's trade).

For the first time there was a clear and present scenario explaining the end of this unprecedented bull market that even less sophisticated investors could comprehend. The Dow Jones promptly dropped 20% from its high within a month and every financial guru worth his bonus was predicting the end of the world.

Almost six months since then, Brazil has secured a $42 billion loan from the IMF and both Dow and Nasdaq are flirting with all new time highs. Well, that was all? Now, Brazil is on track again, Russia was put in its place (financially speaking) and let the bygones be bygones? What really happened in Brazil since hell broke loose?

President Cardoso managed to amend the Constitution so that he was qualified to run for re-election. As expected, he successfully defended the presidency in the subsequent elections in October, and his victory, in a sense, calmed fmancial markets since he is widely respected for his determination to modernize Brazil. In his previous career as Finance Minister, he implemented the Real Plan that reduced inflation within months from 3,000% to less than 10%.

In the middle of November, Brazil secured a $42 billion credit line from the IMF. The package was larger that expected by about $10 billion under the reasoning that Brazil should have some margin to defend the Real in case that speculators attempt another battery of attacks.

Brazilian economy retracted by 1.5% in the third quarter of 1998 versus a 1.4% expansion of the second quarter. The shrinkage is expected to be even higher in the fourth quarter while most credible analysts predict a recession year for 1999. The consensus estimate is that GDP will decrease by at least 1% GDP in 1999.

Central Banks' Monetary Policy Committee lowered interest rates to 42.25% from 49.75%. It is expected that Brazil's Central BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

Bank will gradually lower the rates even more and this was only the first step toward that direction.

In late November, the Minister of Telecommunications and two senior officials resigned after allegations that were trying to influence the privatization of $20 billion Telebras in July in favor of certain candidates. In early December, Brazil's lower house of Congress (Chamber of Deputies) rejected a pension reform bill that would have cut spending by $2.5 billion and narrowed the deficit gap. In reality, this has been a clear requirement for the IMF package. Although relatively small in size, it is a blow to the government's confidence. The government will try to introduce the bill again in early next year.

In middle December, Brazil's legislators proposed a 59% increase of their own salaries and other senior public servants. The salary proposal will be sent to Congress in February 1999 and is expected to pass with minimal opposition. The cost is estimated to be about $500 million.

Moody's Investors Service has downgraded Brazil's foreign currency debt to B2 from B1 in September, while Standard & Poor's has maintained its slightly better BB-minus rating.

Brazil's Central Bank announces that as of the end of November, foreign reserves dropped to $41.2 billion, a $1.2 increase in the month of November. This is the lowest amount of foreign reserves since 1994 and is sufficient to fund imports for only eight months. Also in November, Brazil's foreign debt reached $230.5 billion, versus $199.99 billion at the end of the year. Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) in November was $1.857 billion, the lowest monthly figure since April 1998.

The total FDI for the first ten months in 1998 was $23.437 billion versus the government's target of $22. Finally, the year-to-date current account deficit was 4.29% of GDP versus a 4% from a year earlier.

On December 23, Cardoso appoints a new Cabinet. Actually, he re-appoints most of his previous ministers with a direct word of advise that "if they do not vote (for the government's agenda), they do not support the government; if they do not support the government, then they can't be in the government".

It is clear that things have been exiguously changing toward a more secure future in Brazil in the last months. With the exception of the reelection of President Cardoso and a $42 billion credit line from the IMF, all other factors have deteriorated. Do these events justify the complacency of equity markets around the world and especially in the US? Probably not. Shouldn't the Brazilian President and Congress be working more aggressively to put their house in order?

Definitely yes.

Basil M. Karatzas is graduating in May 1999 with an MBA degree in international Business from Rice University, in Houston, TX. Basil also serves as President for Platinum Holdings International, an international management and capital consulting firm, and can be reached at karatzas@rice.edu BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

The Importance of Being Brazil Brazil has the ninth largest economy in the world, its market size is about two-thirds that of the US. The Brazilian economy has historically drawn more attention from the US mainly because Brazil propounds enormous risks at trying times. It is obvious from an investor s point of view that a Brazilian financial crisis is of grave importance to the US. Brazil is too important of a partner in good times and a troublemaker in bad times to be left alone.

BASIL M. KARATZAS Unlike the precipitating Russian economy and its tangential repercussions to the US, a potential fall of the Brazilian economy will be painful and costly. It is not merely the size of the Brazilian economy but mainly its inter-dependence with the US and the rest of the world, both direct and indirect that canonizes its importance. While the International Monetary Fund (IMF) and the World Bank have dutifully kept a watchful eye op Brazil since recent tumultuous events around the globe, the US government has a vested interest in the report card of the Brazilian economy.

The Brazilian economy has historically drawn attention from the US because Brazil can make an excellent financial partner in good times. Of course, times have never been that good in Brazil (given inflation rates, political events and corrupted political institutions); nevertheless, Brazil is a solidly developing country that has leapfrogged in recent years with an impressive betterment of its economy and its political institutions. Especially after the successful implementation of the Real Plan in 1994, Brazil and US have been exchanging state head visits and reciprocating trade missions.

Brazil has the ninth largest economy in the world with a 1997 GDP of SUSD800 billion. Its market size (approximate population of 170 million) is the second biggest in the Americas or about two-thirds that of the US. GDP per capita is SUS4, 000 which is even more interesting from a marketing point of view, given that there is considerable skewness in income distribution. As of July 1998, Brazil had hard currency reserves of $70 billion ($39 billion as of mid-December), while its inflation has been tamed from stratospheric levels (2,000% in 1993) to a livable 6% in 1998. Finally, Brazil is blessed with natural resources in terms of soil fertility, tropical climate and underground reserves that in emergency can be utilized to secure credit lines; Brazil is the biggest exporter in the world of coffee and citrus, and one of the biggest producers of sugar cane, bauxite, ore, gold and oil. In this kind of environment, it is naturally expected that Brazil has the dowry to make a very hopeful future trade and business partner.

Ironically, the Brazilian economy has historically drawn more attention from the US mainly because Brazil propounds enormous risks at trying times. Currently, Brazil is considered to be the key 21

economy that can forestall the Pacific Rim-originating domino effect of 1997 before it embraces the rest of the world and, yes, the US economy. The precedence the US is placing on the Brazilian economy is conspicuous from statements and actions of high ranking and extremely credible US officials, such as Treasury Secretary Robert Rubin and Fed Chairman Alan Greenspan. In fact, the US has been instrumental in securing a generous $42 billion credit line from the IMF last fall, approximately $5billion of which is coming directly from the US government.

US's concern about the Brazilian economy re-inflamed in spring 1998, when foreign investors and speculators started an attack on the Brazilian currency (Real) assuming that Brazil would be the next victim of the Asian contagion and the Russian debacle. Regardless of the validity of such speculation, the mere psychological dangers were eminent. Within months, $20 billion was expatriated out of Brazil.

Unlike Russia where the US had limited investments, the US stakes in Brazil are significant. Specifically, it is estimated that US banks have lent more than $30 billion to Brazilian interests, more than any other nation in the world. Default on such loans would unequivocally hurt the profitability of US banks, which in turn would incite another downleg of the US equity markets. In 1997, US companies accounted for 26% of all Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) in Brazil. [FDI is defined as net financial claims of foreign parent companies on domestic subsidiaries.]

This represents a 34% increase over the previous year; in contrast, total FDI in Brazil in 1997 increased only by 30%. Four of the ten biggest companies in Brazil are US-owned (GM, Ford, Texaco and Exxon). Four hundred fifty of the US Fortune 500 companies have operations in Brazil. Some notable examples of big US bets in Brazil are Coca-Cola's $1.4 billion investment between 1995 and 1997, and BellSouth's successful $2.5 billion bid to buy a wireless telecommunications license in 1997. For certain companies, the exposure to Brazilian fortunes is mind-boggling: Whirpool derives $78 out of its $89 million total earnings from its Brazilian affiliates. US-Personal Computer makers accounted for 33% of the Brazilian market but they constitute 85% of all PC imports.

Finally, Brazil represents the third largest worldwide franchise system, and US companies have 18% of that market which counts for $2.1 billion in sales. McDonald's, for example, opens a new store in Brazil every three days. It is obvious from an investor's point of view, therefore, that a Brazilian financial crisis is of grave importance to US. Currently, Brazil is one of the few countries with whom the US has a trade surplus ($6.3 billion in 1997, a 60% increase over the previous year). The financial difficulties in Brazil are expected to eliminate this surplus in 1999. The US is Brazil's biggest trade partner with 18% of all Brazilian exports coming to the US, while an impressive 23% of its imports are originating from the US. In addition, Brazil, in an effort to curb imports, started imposing tariffs and other regulatory measures, which will further decrease US exports. Some analysts believe that Brazil is determined to impose on certain imports maximum tariff levels allowed by the World Trade Organization.

US exports to Brazil are 25% more than those to China despite all the noise about China importance as an export market. According to the American Chamber of Commerce in Sao Paulo, Brazilian imports from the US are responsible for the creation of 210,000 jobs in the US. In perspective, this number represents 0.2% of the American workforce.

Tourism will be affected by Brazil's meltdown. Approximately one million Brazilians were expected to visit the US in 1998 with $3.5 billion to spend. A Brazilian tourist spends in the US $158 per diem which is exceeded only by the amount a Japanese tourist spends. While New York and California rank high in the preferences of Brazilian tourists, Florida, as the top destination, is already feeling the meltdown. According to a US Department of Commerce international trade analyst, "when Brazil sneezes, Florida catches a cold".

All said, Brazil is too important of a partner in good times and a troublemaker in bad times to be left alone. Especially now that Brazil represents the last frontier that can contain the Asian contagion before it entangles the Latin and North America, its importance is all more eminent and more appreciated. :4 Basil M. Karatzas is graduating in May 1999 with an MBA degree in international Business from Rice University, in Houston, TX. Basil also serves as President for Platinum Holdings International, an international management and capital consulting firm, and can be reached at karatzas@rice.edu

To the Rescue By raising the rate it charges for lending, the Brazilian central bank hopes to make the real more valuable.

Unfortunately, this only amounts to closing the barn door after the horses have escaped.

MIKE SPROUL Brazil's recent devaluation of its currency exposes a common weakness shared by all modern central banks: While they carefully monitor interest rates and the money supply, they pay little attention to their own assets. Thus the Brazilian central bank, which holds a great deal of its assets in the form of Brazilian government bonds, was badly hurt when those bonds dropped in value. As a result, the bank had fewer resources backing its money, and so the value of the real fell. To make matters worse, the bank chose to support its currency by buying reals on the open market for more than they were worth. This means the bank threw away even more of its assets—inadvertently causing the real to fall still further.

An example will help to illustrate the bank's problem: Suppose the Brazilian central bank has just commenced business. On the day it opens, people deposit 100 U.S. dollars in the bank. The bank gives out paper receipts for the dollars deposited. The bank then promises that each receipt will be redeemable at the bank for one U.S. dollar. Assuming that tbe bank is trusted, people will begin to use its receipts as a local paper money, equivalent in most respects to genuine U.S. dollars. This, in essence, is how paper money first comes into being. As long as the paper money is redeemable for dollars, people will value the money just as they value dollars. When the bank closes for the weekend and the paper money becomes temporarily irredeemable, people will still value it as long as they know the bank still has its assets. Even when the paper money becomes irredeemable for months or years at a time, people will still value it according to the value of the assets held in the bank.

22 BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

do? There are three things: (1) Don't try to support the real, Once the central bank has established a paper money, si ce this will drive it down even more. (2) it typically begins to acquire government D versify the central bank's assets into other bonds as its chief asset. The Brazilian central s!curities besides Brazilian government bank, for example, uses newly-printed paper bcmds. (3) Don't raise interest rates above reals to buy Brazilian government bonds. In arket levels. This strategy will not reverse principle there is nothing wrong with this. If t e loss already suffered by the real, and it the bank prints 100 new reals, and uses them c rtainly will not end the Brazilian budget to buy bonds worth $100, then the bank still d ficit that started the whole problem, but it has one dollar's worth of backing for every ill at least prevent future budget crises from real issued, and the value of the real will be 1:icoming currency crises as well. stable. But here is the problem: Brazil's treasury has become so stretched that not even an Mike Sproul IMF bailout can save it, so Brazilian governteaches (msproul(econ.ucla.edu) ment bonds drop in value. But those bonds are economics at UCLA. Further reading can the backing for the real. When the bonds drop be found at http://www.csun.edu/ in value, the real must drop too. The central —hceco008/rea197.doc bank has committed the age-old financial error of putting too many eggs in one basket: It owns too many Brazilian government bonds, so when those bonds lose value, the real is pulled down with them.

The Brazilian central bank has BRAZIL CARGO SPECIALIST tried to stop the fall of the real with "Ship to Brazil with the company that really knows how." two tools—both of them counterproductive. First, it tried to support BEST SERVICE + BEST RATES the real in international markets by ,AIR - IATA 01-1-9279-012 using its dollar reserves to buy reals OCEAN - FMC 3853 at an artificially high rate. Let's say the fair market value of the real is just $.90. If the bank starts buying those reals at artificially high TO ANY AIRPORT IN BRAZIL prices—say if it pays $1 for each real that it buys, then the bank will lose 10 cents on each purchase. The bank's assets will fall, and the real will drop still more.

FULL CONTAINE R & DIRECT CONSOLIDATIONS The second tool the bank has WITHOUT TRANSLOADING IN MIAMI used is interest rates. By raising the rate the bank charges for lending, they hope to make the real more valuable. Unfortunately, this only amounts to closing the barn door • eti Virrnh after the horses have escaped. The real fell in the first place because the bank's portfolio of Brazilian government bonds fell in value. That lost wealth is gone forever, and the bank cannot recover it by charging /00 FALAM S PORTUGUES more for future loans. In fact, if the CONTACT IIANIELA OR JULIET bank sets its interest rate above the market rate, then borrowers will 12833 SIMMS AVE. AVVTHORNE, CA 90250 either borrow somewhere else or they will choose not to borrow— TEL: (310) 973 7 12 FAX: (310) 973 7113 leaving the central bank with fewer customers, and leaving Brazilians facing a credit crunch as the bank tightens the supply of reals.

So what should the central bank

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Looking for Love They stick around waiting for any kind of attention. Some will ask for a kiss or a hug. They are all waiting to be adopted and they seem -to consider each caring gesture as a sign that they might get a home and a family. Then, a -bigger kid asks the visitor: "Do you havea home?" What would you answer?

JANAINA GIMAEL

Children for adoption at imiar

The Secretaria de Assistencia Social (Social Assistance Department), an organ from the Brazilian social security service, estimates that there are 200,000 Brazilian children waiting to be adopted. The majority are not white and are boys. This is the opposite profile wished for by Brazilians who, in general, want white baby girls. Until recently the only hope for these children was to be adopted by a foreigner. Today many institutions are encouraging all kinds of adoption and in particular, the more difficult ones.

Most of the kids waiting in line to be adopted were born by chance. Due to many reasons, their parents, who in many cases are just a mother with no support from her boyfriend or husband, abandoned them. At this moment, they are waiting for a new family to rebuild or even build a sense of familiar union. The first scene a visitor sees when he visits an orphanage, temporary shelter or another kind of social institution is unforgettable. Not only are there very small babies, but also children who are almost teenagers and have contradictory behaviors.

They stay around the visitor, apparently waiting for any kind of attention. Some of them ask for a kiss or a hug. They seem to consider each caring gesture as a sign that they might go away with the visitor. On the other hand, there are children who keep their distance. It seems that their small eyes are carrying such suffering that they do not have hope that someone will come to help them.

Suddenly, one of the oldest asks: "Do you have a home?" It is hard to know exactly what to say, even knowing that they already know the answer.

To understand the process of adoption in Brazil and its consequences, it is necessary to remember that we are talking about a country that is a champion in social inequalities and where thousands of people do not have access to the bare minimum for survival. The act of abandoning a child has in its roots a serious economic problem, which goes together with no official policy of teaching about the importance of the family.

This is a very old problem, which has been plaguing the country since the eighteenth century. In 1726, the state of Bahia started a practice known as roda dos expostos (wheel of the exposed ones).

This procedure, which started in some European countries in the 17'h century, was designed to protect the abandoned babies from dangers like pigs and dogs, which used to live on the streets in those times. It was a contraption installed on the external wall of some buildings where the mothers could leave the babies they could not take care of. There was a hole inside the wheel where the child was put into.

Nurses and sisters would take the children and place them in some social institution. Since 1825 the Santa Casa de Misericordia, a charity institution created in 1498 by Queen Leonor de Lancastre, in Lisbon, Portugal, and exported to Brazil, took over the care of such Rodas, which had a bell so the policeman on duty could take the child to a safe place. The first Santa Casa in Brazil was opened in Olinda, Pernambuco, in 1539. There are close to 500 of these institutions around the country today and they still care for the poor children.

Nowadays, children are left in every kind of place. Even inside public bathrooms and garbage cans. And what happens to these kids? When a story of abandonment is told in the media many couples show interest in adopting the baby. In most cases, however, nobody knows when a child is abandoned and to complicate matters when a baby is abandoned and its family disappears, the legal process of adoption tends to be very slow. It is necessary to get approval from the natural parents to formalize the adoption and there is a lot of bureaucracy involved in the whole process.

The first step to adopt a Brazilian child is to file an application

24 BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

child under the age of two for at least 15 days and for a with the Vara da Infancia e da Juventude (Child and Youth minimum of 30 days with those older than two before they Court) where the interested person will be interviewed. In are allowed to take a child overseas. Children will not be Brazil, anyone who is at least 21 years old can adopt, as long allowed out of the country without presenting a written as there is a difference of at least 16 years of age between this authorization by both parents or by a Family Court judge in person and the child. Gay couples cannot adopt children the case of an orphan or abandoned child. legally in the country. The discussion about the theme is Stories frequent but the complexity of the question indicates that the We had a chance to meet Mary and Joseph Peterson (the issue will not be settled soon. names of parents and children cited in this article were Until 1988 an adopted child in Brazil did not have the changed in order to preserve the interviewees identities), an same legal rights as a natural one. But this situation began to English couple. Their first contact with Brazil came with the change with the adoption of the 1988 constitution, which arrival of a Brazilian student in their home. Ana went to established that natural or adopted children have exactly the England to study English and became a friend of the family. same rights. Since July 1990, children in the country have When she came back to Brazil they decided to visit her and better legal protection through the Estatuto da Crianca e do also to adopt a Brazilian child, something they were planning Adolescente ( Child and Adolescent Statute). for some time.

The international adoption process is similar to the naWith Ana and her mother's help, Mary and Joseph, who tional one. The foreign citizen must file an application with could not haVe babies, adopted a very pretty girl named the Comissao Estadual Judiciaria de Adocao Internacional Susan. Everything was done through the legal process and (International Adoption Judiciary State Commission). There the Brazilian- nglish citizen, who is a teenager today, has is no restriction on age, civil status or religion to file a already come ack to Brazil and loves it very much. petition. The process of adoption, which includes medical Sometime the adoption process occurs in a different and psychiatric exams, can take from one to six months. way as in the 4tory between Luisa, 47, and Juliana, 7. In this There are no fees charged by the courts for prospective case it began vhen the girl was in her mother's belly. Luisa parents, but procedures among different judges vary widely. is single and palways wanted to have a child. One day, a The costs associated with the process are smaller than in woman who vorked in her home as a maid, told her that she other countries and have to do with travel expenses, docuwas pregnant but could not have the baby. Luisa decided to ment translations and legal fees. Once the request is apgive her support so the woman would carry on with the proved, the foreigner can apply to adopt the chosen child at pregnancy. At the end, the natural the Vara da Infancia e da mother went away, letting her adopt Juventude. Final approval is the baby. Luisa registered the child as made by local, state and fedher own daughter. eral courts around the counDocuments required: Juliana does not know the entire try and not by a centralized All foreign documents must be translated iihto story though. She thinks her natural authority. There are always Portuguese as well as certified and authentica d. mother is in heaven, looking after her. many children waiting to be "I don't want another mother", she adopted and the wait period Copy of marriage certificate for those marilied says, "I just want the mother who is to take the child home is a At least two letters of recommendation here with me". Luisa says that Juliana short one. had some small physical problems Power of attorney when using a lawyer In theory anyone, Brawhen she was a newborn baby. "We An agency application with name of child when zilian or not, over 21 may had some problems because she was adopt a child, but often dealing with an agency not breast-fed. She suffered from terjudges prefer Brazilians over Police clearance from the prospective parents' rible colic and used to cry a lot". Since foreigners and some states town Luisa' s family is Italian, Juliana grew also give preference to BraPassport-size photos of adopting parents up speaking Portuguese and Italian. zilian citizens despite the Physician's clearance The girl even has Italian citizenship. questionable legality of such Proof of economic condition "All that she knows is that I love her arrangements. There is no Psychological and sociological home study very much", concludes Luisa. adoption by proxy in the done by accredited agency It's not uncommon for Luisa and country and prospective parCopy of license of agency performing the study Juliana to have to struggle against ents need to go pick up their Copy of the country or state adoption laws prejudice. It is undeniable that mother new children. and daughter are very different physiWho can be adopted? AcBrazilian Embassy in the U.S. cally. While Luisa is blond with blue cording to the law, children Consular Section eyes, Juliana is tawny as most Brazilwhose parents have died, 3009 Whitehaven St. NW ian children available for adoption are. kids who were abandoned or Washington, D.C. 20008 But this doesn't seem to worry them. whose single mothers relin"Adopting is an act of love, which quished their parental rights. involves responsibility and conscience Also children taken out of that, when someone assumes a child their homes by the courts born from other parents, this person is due to mistreatment by their assuming a real son or daughter," says Maria Angelina parents or guardian.

Spada, a soi iologist and the mother of an adopted child.

While the courts in the states of Santa Catarina, Sao Some institutions work helping people who are interPaulo, Parana and Pernambuco are known to be more lenient ested in adopting. They can supply information about this towards foreigners, the same is not true in the states of Rio issue and offer support. It can be useful to be in contact with de Janeiro or Rio Grande do Sul. Since 1993 Pernambuco has some of the . It is important to check the fitness of each one, a centralized list of parental candidates, which is maintained as well. Maiiy illegal cases of adoption, mainly the internaby Ceja (Comissao Estadual Judiciaria de Adocao—State tional ones, are caused by institutions that are not honest.

Judiciary Commission for Adoption).

You have tc be careful when the whole process of adopting Foreigners need to reside with a prospective adoptive BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

25

is very easy and quick.

In a few cases the children offered have families who want them. An infamous case about adopted children has to do the Wes de Jundiai (Mothers of Jundiai), about 34 women from the interior of Sao Paulo whose children were taken overseas to be adopted without their parents permission. Judge Luiz Beethoven Giffoni Ferreira, who authorized the adoptions, was informed that the children were victims of mistreatment but nothing was proved. Some of the children were never heard from before being sent to other countries. This has stirred a nationwide debate and is not an isolated case.

On the Net The adoption process can be done through the Internet. One such place is Limiar (http:// www.limiar.org) based in the United States. The site presents short profiles of Brazilian children waiting for an adoptive home. Rafael & Ana Priscila are presented as "handsome Latin-appearing brother and sister, 7 & 8, healthy, in school, loving, communicative, liking to play." There is also Romonier, a "biracial boy of 4 years with kinky, blonde hair.

Romonier has arthrogryposis affecting his legs and feet and lazy eye. Much vitality and joie de vivre. Adores any and all attention, loves to somersault and show how fast he can move along the ground.

Needing surgery now but not possible in Brazil for many years to come."

Lim iar presents itselfas having placed over 900 Brazilian children with adopted parents since 1981 and as an organization that seeks no contact with the biological family of the child, but only with the Brazilian courts. They promise to provide prospective adoptive parents with a photo, measurements, social history, medical information, and a video clip of the child.

This process can be costly though. It includes a $5500 donation ($8000 for siblings), $100 for an application, $750 for document translation and $500 for registration. Besides, there are also expenses with home study, authentication of documents, airfare, hotel and food, visas, the child's passports and medical examination. According to Limiar these costs will be considerably less than for most similar international adoption programs because no money goes to an orphanage, judge or lawyer.

Janaina Gimael, 20, is Brazilian. She studies journalism and is the editor of Rascunho (http://users.sti.com.br/jgam/ index.html ), a Portuguese e-zine You can contact her by e-mail: igamsti.com.br.

26

CONTACTS Addresses of Institutions dealing with adoption as compiled by Projeto Crianca (Child Project) from the Psychology Department of Universidade Federal do Parana Associacao Brasileira Terra dos Homens Rua General Polidoro, 183 sala 502 - 22290-000 - Rio de Janeiro —RJ; Tel/Fax: (021)275-3168; Caixa Postal 18092; 80811-970 CuritibaPR; e-mail: abth@fst.com.br Associacao de Pais e Filhos Adotivos de Aracatuba —Apfa Rua do Fico, 420 - Santana - 16055-050 - Aracatuba — SP; Tel: (018) 622-3933 Associacao de Pais Adotivos de Campinas - Apa Headquarters: Rua Rafael da Rosa 187 - 13093-491 - Campinas — SP. Mailing address: Av. Princesa D'Oeste, 1295/1 52 — 13026-430 Campinas — SP; Tel: (019) 872-2508 and 874-4564 Associacao de Pais Adotivos de Campos Rua Teixeira de Freitas, 150- Campos dos Goytacazes/RJ 28040-390 Escola de Pais do Brasil Rua Bartira, 1094 — 05009 - Sao Paulo — SP; Tel: (041) 224-3036/ (011) 3862-9508 Grupo Adote Av. CalOgeras, 1625 - 79004-000- Campo Grande-MS; Tel: (067) 383-5779 Grupo de Apoioà Adocao de Campina Grande Rua Ricardo Wagner da Silva Paes, 200/1 0; andar -58109110 - Campina Grande — PB; Tel: (083) 333-2004 Grupo de Apoio a Adocao de Itapetininga - Gaadi Rua Campos Sales, 554 A, sobreloja - 18200-000 - Itapetininga — SP; Tel: (015) 271-9049; e-mail: gaadi@ebras.com.br ,X :1 Grupo de Estudos e A oio a Adocao de Joinville Caixa Postal 811 - Fi5rum Governador Ivo Silveira - Setor Servico Social - 89201-972 - Joinville — SC Grupo de Apoio a Adocao de Londrina Rua la Paz 49 - Parque Guanabara - 86050-080 - Londrina — PR; Tel: (043) 329-9955 and (043) 337-2505 Grupo de Apoio a Adocao de Ribeirao Preto Rua Visconde de Inhauma, 959— 14010-100 — Ribeirao Preto—SP Grupo de Apoio a Adocao de Rio Claro Caixa Postal 470 - 13500-970 - Rio Claro — SP; Tel: (0195) 246542 and 34-5165 Grupo de Estudos eApoio a Adocao de Barra Mansa- Aconchego Av. Domingos Marino 83, sala 906- 27345-120 - Barra Mansa — RJ; Tel: (0243)22-4921/22-6065; e-mail: nana.cristina@sidenet.com.br Grupo de Estudos e Apoio a Adocao do Acre Caixa Postal 1502 Rio Branco/AC - 69912-970; Tel: (068) 2263661 Grupo de Estudos e Apoio a Adocao de Florianopolis — Geaaf Largo Sao Sebastiao, 88 sl 21 - 88015-560 - Floriam5polis — SC; BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

Tel: (048) 233-3677/223-6320 — Home page: http:// www.portadig.com.br/geaaf e-mail: geaaf@portadig.com.br Grupo de Estudos e Apoio a Adocao de Porto Velho Av. Feliz Cidade, 968 Nacional - 78903-400 - Porto Velho — RO Grupo de Estudos e Apoio a Adocao de Recife— Gead Recife Rua Pio IX, 384— Torre - 50710-260- Recife — PE; Tel: e-mail: 963-3911; and 441-2083 (081) schettin@elogica.com.br Grupo de Incentivo e Apoio a Adocao da Regiao de Ourinhos Rua Gastdo Vidigal, 476 - 19900-000 - Ourinhos-SP; Tel: (014) 322-4206 and 322-2406; e-mail: santiago@ourinhos.com.br Grupo de Pais Adotivos de Joao Pessoa Caixa Postal 5121 - 58051-970 Joao Pessoa — PB; Tel: (083) 235-2342 Macs do Coracao Rua Francisco Polito, 332 — Vila Prudente — 03137-010 — Sao Paulo — SP; Tel: (011) 278-5759 Projeto Acalanto Rua Ferdinando Rutini, 359 - 05143-240 - Sao Paulo — SP; Tel: (011) 835-4002 Projeto Acalanto de Natal — Pan

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"Al dos que decretam leis injustas, dos que escrevem leis de opressab, para negarem justica aos pobres, para arrebatarem os direitos aos aflitos do meu povo, a Jim de dos." despojarem as viavas e roubarem os ort(Livro do Profeta Isaias) "Atendei, agora, ricos, choral lamentando por causa das vossas desventuras, que vos sobrevidio. As vossas riquezas estelo corruptas, as vossas roupagens comidas de fracas, o vosso ouro e a vossa prata foram gastos de jerrugens e a ua ferrugem ha de ser por testemunho contra vas m smos e ha de devorar, como fogo, as vossas carnes..."

(Carta do Ap stolo Tiago)

West of Nothin But who is talking about exterminating, Father? Who? Who talked about this? You talked about this. From where did you get this idea? You know, sometimes you move me. You really move me. Your naïveté, your imbecility, and your cruelty, did. your hear it well? Your part with the demon or I don't know who.

JULIO CESAR MONTEIRO MARTINS

BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

0 gordo e temo se levanta e encara o jovem nu, corn o olhar cinic ente cientifico e determinado: —Muito em, padre. 0 senhor sabe por que foi convidado a vir ate aqui —Nao. E no sei.

—E claro que sabe, padre. Vamos, eu nao tenho tempo a perder. Vou petir. 0 senhor sabe por que esta aqui agora?

—No, e nao sei. E gostaria de dizer que nao fui convidado a ir ate aqui. Fui forcado a vir ate aqui.

0 gordo e dirige a um auxiliar: —Voces saram de for-9a para traze-lo ate aqui?

—Nao se hor. Ele veio por seus pr6prios pes-respondeu o guarda.

—Entao, • adre. 0 senhor nao foi for-gado a vir ate aqui.

Eles apenas oram ajuda-lo a encontrar o caminho.

—0 sen or sabe que eu conheco muito bem o caminho ate aqui. Já e tive aqui muitas vezes, e nos ja conversamos na sua sala. verdade. Tenho anotadas todas as suas —Sim, reclamacOes Estou ate pensando em fazer urn caderno especial pra las.

—E, ma parece que elas ficaram so anotadas. Ha quatro meses eu est ye aqui, e trouxe testemunhas que viram urn de seus auxili s violentar uma India de nove anos de idade.

Ele foi ajudai o por urn colega, e muitas pessoas, nao apenas indios, mas tolonos da fazendatambem, viram tudo. E o que foi feito ate gora?

—Cale-s-! Aqui quern faz as perguntas sou eu. Mas eu you respond -r a sua. Nos combinamos que, se o senhor nao relatasse o f to aos jornais ou aos seus superiores, eu tomaria as devidas p ovidencias, nao foi?

—Sim. as que providencias foram tomadas? 0 que foi feito? 0 ho i em que violentou a menina nao esta fiesta sala, mas eu o vi ntem mesmo, parado em frente ao Bar Central. ' —Entao quer dizer que o padre anda observando os meus auxil. es? Isso 6 uma coisa muito feia para urn religioso co o o senhor, padre.

—Eu n. ando observando nada. Esta vila tern pouco mais de doi mil habitantes. Sao seis ruas e uma praca, onde fica o bar. I omo eu poderia nao ve-lo?

—Bern, eu sinto muito, mas ja verifiquei tudo. 0 meu auxiliar na teve culpa nenhuma no incidente. Ou melhor, acidente. A menina escon-egou, enquanto os outros indios corriam co os tiros, e se machucou na queda. Eu perguntei aos outros apazes que estavam corn o meu auxiliar no momento, e eles disseram que nao viram nada disso que foi espalhado or al. Puro boato.

—E o s nhor acredita nisso?

— E cl o que sim. Como poderia deixar de acreditar nos homens qu trabalham comigo? Se eu nao tiver confianca neles, para 1esempenhar as minhas funcoes, entao em quem eu you ter? Compreendeu bem isso, padre?

29

—Receio que sim.

—Alem do mais, aquelas testemunhas que o senhor trouxe nao sao boas. Eu deixei passar uns dias e fui interroga-las novamente. Elas nap disseram coisa corn coisa. Sao todos uns capiaus broncos, que nao tern a menor nocao do que estao falando.

Eu me admiro o senhor, urn homem civilizado, letrado, se misturar corn esta gentinha deste fim de mundo.

Bern, mas isso nao é problema meu.

Padre Mauro, eu havia lhe feito uma pergunta. Se o senhor sabia por que estava aqui. 0 senhor nao me respondeu. Pois bem, eu mesmo you responder. Padre Mauro... Antes de qualquer coisa, eu gostaria de dizer que tenho urn grande respeito pela sua pessoa. 0 senhor deve saber que é urn homem muito querido por todo o povinho desta regiao. Alem do que, embora eu nao concorde corn a major parte das coisas que o senhor diz no seu sermao, minha mulher e meus dois filhos, que como o senhor bem sabe, nunca faltam a missa de domingo, tern pelo senhor urn grande apreco.

—0 apreco e matuo. Mas eu gostaria que o senhor entrasse logo no assunto. Por que me fizeram tirar a batina e entrar nesta sala assim, quase nu?

0 gordo se dirige a urn outro guarda, que vigiava a porta sonolento: —Voces tiraram a forca a roupa do padre?

—N6s falamos corn ele que seria melhor que ele mesmo tirasse. Mas ele nao quis e nOs...

—Sim, eu já sei do resto...

0 gordo afrouxa o laco da gravata senta na beirada da mesa: — Padre Mauro, o senhor vai compreender. 0 senhor tirou a roupa apenas por uma questa() de funcao social. 0 assunto que eu tenho a tratar corn o senhor nao é referente ao Padre Mauro, mas ao cidadao Mauro. Esta é uma conversinha de homem pra homem, nao de urn cristao devotado como eu para um representante da Santa Igreja. Alias, deixe-me que a batina nao lhe cai bem. 0 senhor tao jovem, um rapaz tao simpatico e inteligente... E realmente urn desperdicio.

—0 cidadao e o padre sac) a mesma pessoa, que esta aqui sentada na sua frente, esperando uma explicacao pra tudo isto. 0 padre nao ficou la fora corn a batina.

—Bern, eu so espero que o senhor nao esteja sentindo multo frio... 0 senhor esta corn frio, padre?

—NA°, eu estou querendo ir 30

embora daqui. Fala logo o que tern pra falat.

—Se o senhor nao esta corn frio, padre, por que tremem tanto as sues maos?

—Ora, acabe logo corn isso.

—Padre Mauro, ou melhor, cidadao Ma o, graves acusacoes pesam sobre seus ombros. tIá muito o senhor vem sendo observado, e o comportamento anda cada vez mais estranho para urn homem da Igreja.

—0 que voce quer dizer corn "estranho'??

—Que o senhor anda metendo o nariz onde nao deve. Que o senhor, desde que chegou aqui, não restringiu suas funcoes a par6quia local, como era de se esperar, e como sempre foi corn todos os padres deste municipio. 0 senhor logo se juntou aqueles rapazes estudantes que estavam fazendo pesquisas sobre os indios, e atravessava a noite em longos bate-papos, nao é verdade o que eu estou dizendo?

—Sim, e dai?

—E dal que os estudantes voltararn pata suas casas e apartamentos confortaveis, no Rio ou em Sao Paulo, co senhor ficou aqui, tentan4o fazer sozinho o que eles gostariam de ter feito, mas nao tiveram coragem, nao é mesmo?

—Eu nunca estive sozinho. Deus sempre esteve ao meu lado. Akin disso, eu nao estou tentando fazer o que eles nao tiveram "coragere" de fazer. Eles voltararn porque vieram mesnto pra passar pouco tempo e la eles tern suas familias e seus afazeres. Eu fiquei porque vim pra ficar, e porque esta é a minha funcao como sacerdote.

—E qual é a sua funcao como sacerdote?

Ser urn agitador? Colocar minhocas na cabeca dessa pobre gente que vivia tranqiiila no seu trabalho? E essa a funcao de urn sacerdote?

Querer que esses selvagens, que nao passam de animais corn forma de gente, tomem as terras dos fazendeiros?

—Isto que voce esta falando é um absurdO. Eu jamais disse a Indio nenhum que invadisse terras de alguem. Eles estavam sendo invadidos.

Eles nao tinham mais pra onde recuar. Onde que voce quer que eles vivam? Embaixo da agua do rio? Nos galhos das arvores? Ha apenas vinte anos eles eram os donos de toda esta regiao, inclusive de onde n6s estamos pisando agora. Eles foram expulsos, espancados, mortos a bala e a faca. Suas mulheres foram curradas, assim como suas filhas e seus filhos. Nenhum destes seres humanos foi respeitado. Os homens como voces violentaram suas mulheres e espalharam a gonorreia, a sifilis, que urn homem como eu ou voce cura corn antibioticos, mas os indios simplesmente morrem. Todo mundo sabe que voces colocavam roupas sujas, empesteadas de variola, nas trilhas de caca. E o sarampo, quantos haviam morrido de sarampo pouco antes de eu chegar?

—Foi 6timo o senhor me dizer tudo isto, padre. 0 senhor esta se comportando

melhor do que eu esperava. Acho que agora eu nao preciso mais explicar por que o senhor é urn agitador. 0 senhor mesmo o disse. 0 seu comportamento foi tipico, padre. Essa exaltacao de animo, essa violencia nas suas palavras... Tudo isto 6 tip ic 0, padre. Nao ha como negar.

—Violencia? Mas eu estou apenas tentando...

—0 senhor nao esta tentando nada, padre. 0 senhor esta fazendo. 0 senhor esta me convencendo cada vez mais de que, por tras daquela aparencia inocente, de homem voltado para Deus, se escondia um elemento perigoso, nocivo a sociedade. Onde esta Deus nisso tudo? 0 senhor fala de indios, de terras, nao sei o que mais... Onde esta Deus nisso tudo? Acho que a sua fe desmoronou ha muito tempo, padre, se e que urn dia ela existiu...

—Cristo pregou a igualdade entre todos os homens. Nunca isso foi tao esquecido, tao contrariado, quanto nesta terra perdida a leste de coisa nenhuma e a oeste de nada...

—Padre Mauro, Cristo pregou tambem que devemos amar a Deus sobre todas as coisas. Sobre todas as coisas, entendeu, padre?

—Eu amo a Deus amando o meu pr6ximo.

—Ah, e o seu proximo sao esses 1ndios sujos e ignorantes? Belo proximo o senhor arranjou... Deles, o senhor deveria querer distancia. Eles sao perigosos. sao entes sem nenhuma consciencia. Eu, por exemplo, prefiro me manter longe desses porcos do mato.

—Quem dera se ao menos isso fosse verdade.

—Eu nunca me envolvi corn esses animais, senhor padre. Minha vida de casa para o trabalho, do trabalho pra casa. o senhor nunca me viu metido corn essa canalha, viu Padre Mauro?

—Nao, mas vi seus homens. Eles estao sob suas ordens, entao voce sempre esteve indire. tamente ligado aos • indios.

—Ora, indiretamente... Isso é urn argumento meio fraco, nao e padre? 0 senhor tern imaginacao pra mais que isso. Bern, mas vamos ao que interessa. Aquele seu protesto do ultimo dia vinte, pelos jornais de Sao Paulo, irritou muita gente. 0 senhor BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

sabe disso, padre? Muita gente importante, Tido s6 daqui, mas de la tambem.

—Dois indioS foram mortos a bala no ultimo dia dezesseis.

—A principio, isto ndo pode ser verdade. Os homens tern ordens para atirar para o alto, corn o intuit° de afugenta-los, nada mais. Se nOs nAo dermas um sustinho neles de vez em quando, eles acabam tomando conta de tudo, ate da casa onde nos moramos.

—Para o alto? Entdo, como v.oce explica as balas nos corpos daqueles dois homens?

—Eu nao vi bala alguma, senhor padre.

0 gordo de tem° olha enfastiado nara urn auxiliar: —Voce viu?

—Ndo senhor.

—Ele nao viu nada...

Chama o outro guarda, o sonolento: —E voce, viu algum homem, ou melhor, Indio, baleado? vi no senhor.

---Esta vendo, padre? Ninguem viu isso por aqui. 0 senhor anda imaginando coisas que ndo existem.

E o pior. Anda escrevendo e publicando as suas alucinagoes. Isso lido 6 nada honesto, padre. Deixe-me perguntar-lhe uma coisa: o senhor brasileiro?

—Sou. —Nasceu aqui? Se criou aqui?

—Me criei aqui.

—E o senhor nao se preocupa nem urn pouquinho corn a imagem do seu pals?

—A imagem do Brasil devera ser aquela que ele construir a partir de si mesmo, a partir da verdadeira e diaria opinido do novo que vive e sofre este pals. Agora, mais que nunca, importante que todos saibam o que acontece aqui.

—Sim, claro... Todas podem e devem saber o que acontece aqui.

Mas, padre, o que acontece aqui, neste pais, 6 aquilo que o senhor descreve em seus artiguinhos? 0 senhoré novo, mas nem tanto. Deve lembrar-se do que era esta terra ha vinte anos ants.

0 senhor teria demorado meses pra chegar ate aqui, padre. Sabe por que?

Porque no havia estradas. 0 senhor deve lembrar-se que pouco antes disso, no havia como comprar comida, embora comida nunca tenha faltado, gracas a Deus, porque esta terra 6 abencoada. Havia a comida, mas ndo havia como compra-la. Sabe por que, padre? Porque no havia ordem. Era o imperio da baderna. 0 BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

"imbecil". Eu recebi senhor se lembrou de dizer uma ordem superior estas coisas nos jomais? para interromper o seu Clara que no. Estas coisas o trabalho. Alias, nao foi senhor nao diz. NA° interesexatamente o seu trasa, ndo 6 padre? S6 o que 6 balho, compreende, negativo interessa. 0 senhor, padre? como religioso, prega a paz, —Mandaram voce rido 6 mesmo? Pois quando o me matar... Ah, essa Brasil teve tanta paz quanta boa... • nos altimos dez anos? No, —Foi voce quem ninguem vai incendiar este disse. Mas ndo signipals... fica que eu esteja —Isto rid° 6 paz. Isto 6 disposto a isto. Ndo, apatia. E medo. eu absolutamente nao —Medo de que, padre? estou. Eu no sou urn Os homens de bem nao tern assassino, alem do que, medo. Eles rid° devem nada.

Estao em paz corn as suas conscienci s. S6 eu tenho urn grande apreco pelo quern fez algo de errado pode ter medo. • uem senhor, como o senhor já sabe, e a anda na linha no precisa terrier coisa ne uma. Ultima coisa que desejo no mundo 6 ter que usar de violencia, princi—Quern anda na qua linha.

—A linha 6 uma se. E a linha dos horn ns de palmente em se tratando de um bem. Dos homens que querem o des nvol- religioso, e este religioso sendo o vimento, em vez do atraso. A ordem, em ez da senhor, Padre Mauro.

—Deixa eu ver se eu entendo o anarquia. E essa a linha, padre. Pelo me sé a que voce esta querendo me dizer... que eu conheco. E a sua? Qual 6 a sua I ha?

Voce recebeu uma ordem superior, —Voce tido entenderia.

—E claro que nao. Eu ndo tenho o seus certo? A ordem 6: liquide o Padre estudos, a sua cultura, no 6, Padre Mau o? Eu Mauro. Mas 6 uma coisa muito seria sou urn homem ignorante para o senh . Urn matar urn padre. E muita responsabibamabe, urn jodo-ninguem. Mas eu te uma lidade, ndo 6? Entdo, se tudo for coisa que o senhor ndo tern, meu caro arm o. Eu descoberto depois, os seus superiores tenho vivencia. Eu tenho quase o dobro a sua podem responsabilizar voce, que 6 o idade. Conheco o mundo e as pessoas. Ci nheco menor, o menos graduado, como o urn desordeiro de longe, mesmo clisfarc do de bode expiatorio datrama. E eles tiram padre. 0 agitador traz nos olhos sua co dick) o corpo fora, ndo e isto? Bern, por de agitador. 0 brilho 6 diferente, eles se exem outro lado, 6 uma ordem taxativa de cima, que nod° pode ser contrariada. mais. Acho que ate o cheiro 6 diferente —Diga logo o que esta querendo. E estou Entdo, voce tern que tomar uma decisda sobre o que fazer comigo, cansOclo.

—Ah, esta cansado? 0 senhor esta c sado? nao 6 assim?

—E... Nao deixa de ter uma certa Mas no costurna se cansar corn pouc coin, ndo é? Nao se cansa quando anda de faze da em logica. Mas o que 6 que nOs estamos fazenda, para agitar as colonos, para s izer as fazendo desde que o senhor chegou suas mentiras, para convence-los de coi as que aqui? Dialogando, nao 6? Dialogando de igual para igual. 0 senhor apresenta eles morreriam sem saber, ndo 6?

- —Mas como "de fazenda em faze a", se seus argumentos e eu apresento os nesta regido toda s6 existem duas fazend s, ado meus, livremente. Sabe por que, paCampandrio e a Fazenda Velha? Ale disso, dre? Porque eu tambem me moderaqui no existem co lonos, aqui exist= e ravos. nizei. Hoje eu sou urn homem de Homens que trabalham a troco de um pouca dialog°, de mdo estendida a oposicdo. comida e de urn casebre que eles esmos Posso rido ser urn orador brilhante constroem. Tudo o que recebem, depoi de urn como o senhor, mas prefiro o dialog° mes de trabalho de sol a sol, fica no r6prio a qualquer outro metodo.

—Mas nao deixa de usar os outros armazem da fazenda. A troco de que? fuba, oz e metodos, nao 6? de farinha, de urn carte de charque, —0 senhor esta exigindo muito, remedios quando d, e nunca da, rid° 6 esmo?

—Se o senhor acha assim, entdo por ue ndo Padre Mauro! Eu estou lhe tratando, compra uma fazenda, para conhecer • outro por enquanto, corn a maior cortesia e lado da historia? 0 senhor lida corn s tinhos, respeito. 0 senhor esta abusando da padre. Ndo sabe o que 6 ter que aturar queles minha paciencia. Se o senhor ndo peoes estiipidos, aquela gente doente que nao quer o dialog°, ndo venha reclamar, serve para o trabalho, e que no fim do iiês ndo porque a escolha e sua, e nao minha.

--Que dialog° 6 esse? produziu nem para pagar o que come.

—0 Unica possivel corn uma —Mas isso que voce esta fal ndo pessoa intranSigente e irracional como completamente imbecil...

---Imbecil, no 6? Entdo vamos er se o o senhor, Padre Mauro. senhor tamb6m acha isto aqui que eu v u dizer 31

—Escuta, voce quer me propor algum negocio, nao é? 0 que é que voce quer?

— Ndo. Ndo exatamente um negocio. Seria mais urn... acordo. Um acordo de cavalheiros entre nOs dois.

—E o que é esse acordo?

—0 senhor abandona esta regiao para sempre, o mais rapid° possivel.

Hoje mesmo, por exemplo. Ndo comente nada, nunca, do que foi conversado aqui. Digamos que o senhorndo teria se adaptado ao clima, aos mosquitos, compreende? E assim, usando da nossa imaginacao criadora, nOs teremos evitado uma situacdo desagradabilissima. Ficamos combinados, padre?

—Voce esta é louco! Eu ndo you abandonar essa gente. Essa é a minha genre e tambem é o povo de Deus.

Abandona-los sera abandonar a mim mesmo. Meus pes criaram raizes aqui nesta prelazia, e ndo sera voce, corn suas ordens secretas, quern vai arranca-las. E muita pretensao sua. E pretensdo demais, meu irmdo.

—Pois muito bem. Eu sou urn homem muito tolerante. 0 senhor sabe, nao d?

—Isso é completamente fora de propOsito.

—Entdo, eu you dizer-lhe algo que vira bem a propOsito. 0 senhor sabe que dentro de urn me's ou pouco mais, todos esses indios, que o senhor chama de "minha gente", sera° transplantados para uma reserva indigena, onde ficardo muito bem acomodados, sem ninguem pra perturba-los? Assim, o senhor podera jr-se embora tranquil°, porque logo depois eles desaparecerdo daqui.

— Eu you para onde eles forem.

Eu you para o inferno, se voces os mandarem pra la. E alem disso, voce esta cansado de saber que estas reservas indigenas ndo passam de uma forma disfarcada, institucional, de genocidio. Estes homens vivem aqui ha centenas de anos, e toda a sua cultura foi desenvolvida numa relacdo direta corn essa terra, as plantas e os animais daqui. Ha muitas geracOes eles sabem onde encontrar tudo o que precisam pra sobreviver, e é nisso que se fundamenta a cultura deles. A partir do momento em que eles sao transplantados daqui, como voces dizem, eles perdem todos esses vinculos, vdo para uma regido completamente estranha, nas condicOes que os brancos determinam, misturam-se corn tribos que tern urn modo de vida completamente diferente, aculturam-se rapidamente e entdo sdo destruidos corn muito mais 32

facilidade.

—Creio que so o senhor, padre, corn esta sua cabeca maluca, pensa deste modo. E sO ler os jornais e as revistas. A opinido pnblica, que o senhor tanto preza, ndo recrimina as reservas indigenas. Ate muito pelo contrario, eta as aprova totalmente. Acham que 6 a solucdo ideal, como alias eu tambem acho, e sto o senhor nao acha, Padre Mauro.

—Eles nao sabem. Nao compreendem. As pessoas ndo param para pensar seriamente no assunto. Voces falam em remover indios para as reservas, como falariam em isolar urn virus em tubos de ensaio. Descobre-se rapidinho o anti doto e pronto. Foi exterminado todo o mal.

Nao é assim? Ndo é esta a "solucdo definitiva para a questa° indigena"?

— Mas quern falou em exterminar, padre?

Quem? Quern falou? 0 senhor falou, padre. De onde o senhor tirou isso? Sabe, as vezes o senhor me comove. Me comove mesmo. A sua ingenuidade, a sua imbecilidade, a sua maldade, ouviu bem? A sua parte corn o demonio, ou sei la corn quem. Alias, eu sei corn quem o senhor tern parte... Nao é bem corn o demonio, nao é, padre? E corn urn outro grupo, terreno mesmo, que nos dois conhecemos muito bem.

—0 que e que voce esta querendo insinuar?

—Nos sabemos muito bem, ndo é mesmo?...

— Eu ndo sei de nada. Seja claro, por favor, ao afirmar as coisas. Tente ser direto.

—Mais direto do que eu estou sendo? Sera possivel?

—Meu Deus, dai-me forcas!

— Deus esta do lado do bem, padre. Ndo do seu.

—Cale-se!

—Cale-se voce, e °Ka bem. Se voce nao decidir abandonar esta cidade agora, eu you perder o que resta da minha paciencia. Escuta bem, seu padreco de merda, eu estou cada vez mais convencido de que é perda de tempo ficar aqui tentando the explicar o que...

Uma mulher interrompe as falas, invadindo subitamente a sala: —Eu... Eu queria saber se...

0 gordo fica duplamente furioso, e crava os olhos num guarda, berrando: — 0 que é que esta mulher esta fazendo aqui? Seus idiotas! Eu ndo disse que nao queria ninguem aqui? Eu ndo falei, seus imbecis?

Ponham essa cadela daqui pra fora!

0 auxiliar corria de urn lado para o outro, completamente desconcertado: —Eu Tido sei como ela entrou aqui... Eu deixei ordem para...

—Cale-se, seu bosta. E suma corn esta pgrca dessa sala!

Os dois homens seguram a mulher pelo bract:, e a arrastam para fora da sala. Eta olha o padre corn desespero e tenta balbuciar alguma coisa,

mas antes que respirasse novamente, jã havia sido chutada para o meio da rua. 0 gordo sacudia as bochechas vermelhas e resmungava, torcendo um grande anel de esmeralda no dedo mindinho: —Essa cretina... Vai se ver comigo. Filha de uma vaca...

—0 que foi que a mulher fez de errado?-perguntou o padre.

—Bern, isso é problema dela, ndo problema nosso.

—Como é?

—Ndo importa. 0 que importa que nOs dois ainda ndo chegamos a um acordo.

—Ndo ha acordo possivel. Faca o que mandaram voce fazer, simplesmente isso. Tern medo?...

—0 senhor ye como o senhor sempre torna as coisas mais dificeis?

0 senhor é daquela filosofia: "Se nOs podemos complicar, entdo pra que simplificar?" Certo?

—Voce é urn comic°. Urn comic° louco. Urn palhaco do terror.

—Ndo vejo a situacdo assim, tao engracada...

—0 que é que eu deveria achar entdo?

—0 senhor jã acha coisas demais.

Mas talvez ndo saiba direito o que eu acho da vida. Talvez ndo the importe.

Mas sabe o que eu acho da vida? Que a vida é um dom de Deus. E isso o que eu acho. E sabe o que eu acho da morte? Eu tenho medo dela, padre.

Eu tenho pavor da morte. Pavor de imaginar o meu corpo apodrecendo, devorado pelos bichos. E o senhor, ndo tern medo da morte? E claro que tern, padre. Todos nos temos. Faz parte do homem. Da natureza humana, compreende? Ndo temer a morte faz parte da natureza divina, e nOs nao somos deuses, ndo é mesmo?

—Devo tomar isto como uma ameaca?

—Ameaca, a essa altura dos acontecimentos?

—E, pode ser...

—0 senhor parece que ndo esta se importando muito corn a morte. Ou seria impressdo minha?

—Ndo estou me importando mesmo.

Ndo faz diferenca.

Voce ë pago pra isso, nao e? Ndo é esse o seu oficio? 0 seu "servicinho", como voces gostam de chamar? Sabe por que eu estou tremendo?

Porque eu o odeio.

BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

Eu tenho vontade de mata-lo, agora...

—A mim, padre? Mas eu nao lhe fiz mal algum... Pelo menos por enquanto.

0 gordo de terno ri da furia do sacerdote. Bota a mao sobre o ombro de um auxiliar e comenta corn ar ir6nico: —Veja so... 0 padreco diz que me odeia...

0 padre crava as unhas nas palmas das maos e aperta os olhos: —Nao, eu nao odeio voce. Eu odeio algo muito major, do qual voce é apenas uma parte infima, urn instrumento. Eu nao odeio voce. Meu Deus! Eu nao posso odiar este homem!

— E bem verdade que n6s nao ornos propriamente amigos. Mas se eu estou querendo lhe dar uma chance, é porque desejo ajuda-lo. 0 senhor é que nao quer aproveitar. E ainda diz que me odeia.

—N6s já falamos sobre isso.

—E verdade, ja falamos... Padre, eu estive pensando...

—Esteve mesmo? Como foi que voce conseguiu isso?

A pergunta irritou o gordo, que dissimulou comentando corn o guarda mais proximo: —Voce ve? Menino inteligente esse...

Reassumiu um ar de reflexao: — Estive pensando que o senhor um obsessivo. Tern iddia fixa nas coisas. E urn doente mental disfarcado de gente. Sabe o porque de tudo isso, padre? Porque o senhor é proibido de manter relacOes sexuais.

—Ha! S6 faltava essa...

—Nao acredita, nab e? Pois verdade. 0 senhor é um castrado, que nem se masturbar pode. Entao onde que o senhor vai descarregar toda essa frustracao? A frustracao de ver as indiazinhas nuas, corn aqueles seios redondinhos? Aqueles biquinhos virados para o alto assim? Vai descarregar nessas iddias subversivas, de querer mudar tudo. De querer virar o mundo de pernas pro ar.

—Nao é nada disso. Eu poderia explicar as minhas razOes, mas nao interessa a voce. A minha mascu1 inidade esta nos meus atos, nas minhas conviccOes. Eu nao preciso me deitar corn uma muffler para provar pra mim mesmo que eu sou urn homem. Mas, e voces? Qual a razao dessa violencia? Qua! sera? Sabe onde é que esta escondida a sua potencia sexual, meu caro senhor? Embaixo do seu palet6, no cano do seu Taurus 38. Sabe de que é feito o imico semen que voce consegue cuspir? De BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

chumbo. E chumbo, que eu saiba, nao faz filho nem...

0 gordo se vira num repente e acerta uma porrada no padre, que o derruba.

—Cala essa boca imunda, seu merda...

Um guarda procura ajudar o padre a levantar-se. 0 gordo o impede e manda que volte ao seu lugar.

—Largue o homem! Ele pode se levantar sozinho...

0 padre segura a borda da mesa e comeca a erguer-se: —0 Unico musculo que voce levanta: o do seu braco.

0 gordo !he acerta um pontape na bi ca. 0 padre comeca a sangrar.

—Pare corn isso, que eu you mata lo de porrada! Seu escroto... Seu bosta...

Escutam-se vozes do lado de fora. Urn grupo de mulheres se prostrou diante da deleg cia, a gritar: "Solta o padre! Solta o padre!". P uco a pouco, o coro ia engrossando, corn a ades o dos transeuntes. Urn guarda foi o primeiro ouvir os berros: —Al doutor, tern gente gritando la ra...

—0 que eles querem?

—Sei nAo, doutor. Acho que quere que o senhor solte o padre.

—Como eles sabem que o padre est aqui?

—Deve ter sido aquela mulher que ntrou na sala, e depois contou pra cidade inte ra.

—Filha da puta! Ela me paga... Todo esses al fora me pagam! Vai la na calcada, vej quern esta la, anote os nomes, todos os nom s, no deixe escapar nenhum. Guarde as caras todas as caras!

0 guarda saiu mais que depressa. S gordo convocou o outro e levaram o padre p ra urn aposento ao lado, onde nao se escutav. nada.

Por ordem do gordo, o padre foi amarrad pelos pes e suspenso, ate que suas so as se encontrassem corn o teto. A cabeca revi ada do padre ficou quase na mesma altura da ca eca do gordo.

—Eles querem voce, e vao ter voce d volta.

Mas antes nos vamos decidir se voce vo ta corn ou sem vida. A escolha ainda é sua.

—Desde o principio, nao havia scolha alguma.

0 gordo sacou o revolver de cano c rto do cinto e encostou na testa do padre.

—Nesse nosso negOcio, é a minha p le ou a sua...

—Voce pode ficar corn a sua. E s o que voce tern.

Agarrou os cabelos do padre e foi ptocando a sua cabeca de encontro a parede, corn o cano sempre encostado a sua testa.

—Seu louco filho de uma egua! VoCe quer colocar nos dois numa enrascada? Pois )em, eu me viro. Eu sei muita coisa sobre muita gente boa. Qualquer problema comigo, e eu me viro.

Mas voce, seu canalha, vai ter que se explicar para os diabos...

—Ha um tempo para cada coisa. Agora é o seu tempo de matar. Talvez ainda agora seja o meu tempo de viver.

—Voce' é um babaca..

— Cospe fogo; cidadao. Vamos, esta esperando o que?

0 gordo atirou.

Urn tiro, pra que dois? Urn esguicho forte de sangue jorrou da testa do padre, como urn cano furado, e bateu na cara do gordo, que ficou cego por alguns instantes, banhado de cima a baixo de um vermelho vivo. Soltou os cabelos do hornem, e o corpo oscilou pela sala, jorrando sangue para todo lado, repintando as paredes e o soalho. 0 gordo correu ao banheiro, para lavar a cara e as maos. 0 guarda mal conseguia esconder suas golfadas de vomit°. 0 gordo retornou corn um ar nervoso, endurecido. Arrumou a gravata, vestiu o palet6 e antes de sair pela porta dos fundos da delegacia, ordenou: —Diga ao povo la fora que venha buscar o padre. Diga ao povo que o padre já esta solto.

This short story appeared originally under the title "A Oeste de Nada" in the book A Oeste de Nada, Civilizacao Brasileira, 1981. Julio Cesar Monteiro Martins, the author, was born in Niteroi, in the Greater Rio, in 1955. He has published several short-story books:

Torpalium, Sabe Quem Dancou?, A Oeste de Nada, As Forcas Desarmadas, and Muamba.

Monteiro Martins is also the author of three novels:

Artarias e Becos, Barbara, 0 Espaco Imagituirio and a volume of essays: 0 Livro das Diretas.

He is one of the founders of the Brazilian Green Party and from 1992 to 1994 has worked as a lawyer for the Brazilian Center in Defense of Children's Rights. He taught literary creation at the Goddard College in the U.S. and is now a professor in Italy, teaching literary creation and Brazilian literature in colleges in Pisa, Florence, Lucca, and Pistoia.

You can get in touch with the author by sending e-mail to ImonteiAtin.it 33

Recife is the country's fourth biggest city and the capital of Pernambuco. The 'Venice of Brazil' (a rather hopeful comparison), Recife is a city of water and bridges with arrecifes (reefs) offshore. Its sister city of Olinda was once the capital of Brazil and today is a beautiful enclave of colonial buildings filled with artists, students and bohemians.

Amidst all the recent development, Recife retains a rich traditional side, with some of Brazil's best folk art, including Recife is large, modern and painting and sculpture, dance. more difficult to negotiate than music and festivals. It takes time most cities in the Northeast. to discover this side of the city. Downtown is a confusing mixture but it's well worth the effort. of hi_gh-rise offices, colonial Recife is the port of entry for churches and popular markets. many flights from Europe and has The heart of the city is recently been trying to broaden its connected by bridges that join tourist appeal. The main benefidifferent sections of the town. ciary of these developments has been Boa Viagem, the Copacabana of Pernambuco. Site of the well-to-do nightclubs, restaurants and most of the mid-priced to expensive hotels, Boa Viagem has wide beaches which are essential for escaping Recife's muggy heat, although the water is not always very clean. Unless you want to be right on the beach, Olinda has more cheap accommodation and is a more interesting place to stay.

History Recife developed in the 17th century as the port for the rich sugar plantations around Olinda.

With several rivers and offshore reefs, Recife proved to be an excellent port and began to outgrow Olinda. By the 17th century, Recife and Olinda combined were the most prosperous cities in Brazil, with the possible exception of Salvador (Bahia). The neighboring Indians had been subdued after brutal warfare, and the colonial aristocracy living in Olinda was raking in profits with its many sugar engenhos(mills). Naturally, all the work was done by slaves.

No European country had managed to grab a part of Brazil from the Portuguese until 1621,

Dreamin of Venice

34

when the Dutch, who were active in the sugar trade and knew the lands of Brazil well, set up the Dutch West India Company to get their teeth into the Brazilian cake. A large fleet sailed in 1624 and captured Bahia, but a huge Spanish-Portuguese militia of 12,000 men recaptured the city the following year. Five years later the Dutch decided to try again, this time in Pernambuco. Recife was abandoned; the Dutch took the city and by 1640 they had control of a great chunk of the Northeast, from Maranhao to the Rio Sao Francisco.

The Dutch had hoped the sugar planters wouldn't resist their rule, but many Brazilian planters took up arms against the non-Catholic Dutch. In 1654, after a series of battles around Recife, the Dutch finally surrendered. This was the last European challenge to Portuguese Brazil.

Recife prospered after the Dutch were expelled, but in spite of the city's growing economic power, which had eclipsed that of Olinda, political power remained with the sugar planters in Olinda, and they refused to share it. In 1710 fighting began between the filhos da terra (the sugar planters of Olinda) and the mascates (the Portuguese merchants of Recife), the more recent immigrants. The Guerra dos Mascates (War of the Mascates), as it came to be known, was a bloody regional feud between different sections of the ruling class and native Brazilians and immigrants. In the end, with the help of the Portuguese crown and their superior economic resources, the mascates of Recife , gained considerable political clout at the expense of Olinda, which began its long, slow decline.

More dependent on the sugar economy than Rio or Sao Paulo, Recife was eclipsed by these two centers as the sugar economy floundered throughout the 19th century.

Orientation Recife is large, modern and more difficult to negotiate than most cities in the Northeast. The city center is a confusing mixture of high-rise offices, colonial churches and popular markets. During the day, traffic and tourists get lost in the maze of winding one-way streets.

The heart of Recife, containing the old section of town, ranges along the waterfront in Boa Vista district, across the Rio Capibaribe to Santo Antonio district and then across to BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

Ilha do Recife. All are connected by bridges.

Olinda is six km to the north over swamps and rivers, while Boa Viagem is six km to the south.

Information Tourist Office The headquarters of Empetur (241-2111), the state tourism bureau, is in the monolithic Centro de ConvencOes (Complex° Rodov iaria de Salgadinho), between the city center and Olinda. To get there from the center, take the 'Rio Doce/ Conde da Boa Vista' bus.

Smaller information booths are in the Casa da Cultura de Recife and the rodoviaria (good, but with no literature).

The information desk at the airport has maps and can book hotels.

Useful publications available from tourist offices include the Pernambuco Tourist Guide, which has a map of the beaches around Recife, Itinerario (a monthly miniguide for Recife) and Brazil Travel News—Pernambuco, a glossy brochure about the state's main attractions.

Dicirio de Pernambuco, one of the local newspapers, has cultural listings (museums, art galleries, cinemas, etc) in its daily Diversiaes (amusements) section.

Bookshops There are several bookstalls along Rua do Infante Dom Henrique. The airport bookshop and the Livro 7 de Setembro are the best bets if you're looking for foreignlanguage books.

Museums & Galleries With such a long and important history, it's not surprising that Recife is loaded with churches and museums, but few of them are mustsees.

The best museum, Museu do Homem do Nordeste (Museum of the Northeast), is east of the city center along Avenida 17 de Agosto. Catch the 'Dols Irmaos' bus from Parque 13 de Maio (in the city center) and ask the driver to let you off at the right spot.

The museum is divided into three sections: an anthropology section about the people of the Northeast; a popular-art section with some superb ceramic figurines; and BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

a pharmacy exhibit about the region's herbal/indigenous medicine. Opening hours are 11 am to 5 pm on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday, 8 am to 5 pm on Thursday, and 1 to 5 pm on Saturday, Sunday and public holidays.

The Horto Zoobotanico, with a zoo and botanical garden (both renovated in 1990), s in the same neighborhood. Opening hours are 8 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Sunday.

Train fetishists may like to visit the Museu do Trem (Train Museum), which is adjacent to Recife Metro Station—formerly known as Estacao Central (Central Train Station).

For a look at some paintings by renowned artists of Pernambuco you can visit Galeria de Arte Metropolitana, at Rua da Aurora 265. It's open Tuesday to Saturday from noon to 6 pm.

Archaeology buffs will want to browse around in the Museu Archeolegico, aL Rua do Hospicio, 130. It's open Tuesday and Wednesday from 2 to 6 pm.

Old City To see the old city, start over at Praca da Republica, where you'll see the Teatro Santa Isabel (1850) and the Palacio do Governo (1841).

Take a look at Igreja de Santo Antonio (1753) in

Praca da Independencia, and then visit atedral de Sao Pedro dos Clerigos, on Patio de S o Pedro, an artists' hangout. There are many inti mate restaurants, shops and bars here, all with interesting local characters. On weekends there's often good music.

Walk down Rua Vidal de Negreiros to ihe Forte das Cinco Pontas, which was built by the Dutch in 1630, then rebuilt in 1677. Inside there's the Museu da Cidade, which displays maps and photos of the city. Opening hours are 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday to

Friday and from 1 to 6 pm on Saturday and Sunday.

Nearby, at Praca Dom Vital, is the daily Mercado de Sao Jose (market) and the Basilica de Nossa Senhora da Penha. The market used to be a major center for food and crafts from throughout Pernambuco, but now you'll find mostly manufactured goods here.

Casa da Cultura de Recife The Casa da Cultura de Recife, across the street from Recife Metro Station, once served as a huge, colonialstyle prison, but was decommissioned, renovated and redecorated in 1975. It's now home to many craft and souvenir shops. Good traditional music and dance shows are often performed outside the building, and the complex contains tourist information and telephone offices. It's open from Monday to Saturday 9 am to 7 pm and on Sunday from 2 to 7 pm.

Olaria de Brennand The Olaria, a ceramics factory and exhibition hall, is set in thickly forested surroundings, a rare landscape for suburban Recife and an even rarer chance for travelers in the Northeast to see what the Mata Atlantica looked like several centuries ago. The buildings and exhibits in Olaria de Brennand are perhaps the most bizarre highlight of the Northeast they are highly recommended.

History—The Irish forbears of the present owner, Francisco Brennand, arrived in Brazil in 1823 to work as peasant farmers. The unmarried daughter of a sugar magnate took a liking to Brennand's father, who was employed by her father. She later inherited her father's property and, when she died, willed her entire estate and immense wealth to Brennand Senior.

The house in which Francisco Brennand was born, in 1927, was imported from England in prefabricated form.

Brennand's father founded a brickworks in 1917 and continued this business until 1945. Francisco left for France, where he studied art and was influenced by 35

Picasso, Miro, Leger and Gaudi. The property in Recife remained abandoned from 1945 until 1971, when Brennand returned from France and set about restoring the dilapidated buildings.

The Gallery/Museum— This contains a permanent exhibition of around 2000 pieces, which are not for sale.

Wander around sculptured collages of cubes, spheres and rectangles absorbed into animal shapes: worms with balaclava hats; blunt-headed lizards bursting out of parapets; cuboid geckos straddling paths; geese with flying helmets; birds of prey hatching from half-shells lodged in the walls; pigs formed from giant nails; and vistas of busts, buttocks, breasts, and phalluses... meanwhile, black swans glide over shoals of goldfish in ponds dotted with vulvas shaped like tortoises. Kooky, but fun!

The gallery/museum is open Monday to Thursday from 8 am to 5 pm, and from 8 am to 4 pm on Friday. For information, contact Oficina Ceramica Francisco Brennand (271-4814), s/a, Propriedade Santos Cosme e Dam iao s/n (no number), Varzea, CEP 50741 Recife PE. Olaria Brennand produces superb ceramics, which are sold in its shop (325-0025), at Avenida Conselheiro Aguiar 2966, loja 4, Galeria Vila Real, in Boa Viagem.

Getting There & Away—From the center of Recife, take the bus marked `Caxanga' for the 11-km long ride to the Caxanga bus ter-

36

minal. Continue walking about 100 meters away from the city and over the bridge. Then take the first road on the left—easily recognized by the roadside statue of Padre Cicero. Walk about two km, past a couple of stray hotels, until you reach a gaudy housing development. Take the road to the left at the T-junction and continue for about three km through dense forest to the office. Shady characters hang out in the area, so it's best if you are in a group. The walk takes about 11/4 hours.

Otherwise, you can take a taxi from the bus terminal or the bridge to the Olaria—and walk back after your visit. Tour companies and taxi companies will also do the trip from the center of Recife or Olinda, but it's expensive unless you can form a small group to share the costs.

Festivals The Recife-Olinda combination may be the best Carnaval in Brazil, but even ifyou decide to carnaval in Rio or Salvador, Recife starts celebrating so early that you can enjoy festivities there and then go somewhere else for Carnaval proper. Two months before the start of Carnaval, there are bailes (dances) in the clubs and Carnaval blocos practicing on the streets, with frevo dancing everywhere.

Gab o da Madrugada, Recife's largest bloco, has been known to bring 20,000 people in costume onto the beaches at Boa Viagem to dance.

There are supposedly 500 different Carnaval blocos in the Recife area, and they come in all 'shakes' and colors. There are the traditional and well organized, the modern and anarchical. There are samba schools there are afo.es, Indian tribes and maracatus (African processions accompanied by percussion musicians), but the main dance of Carnaval in Pernambuco is the frenetic frevo. The Fundacao da Cultura do Recife, which runs Carnaval, has on occasion organized public frevo lessons for the uninitiated at the Patio de Sao Pedro.

Along Boa Viagem beach, Carnaval groups practice on weekends, and as Carnaval approaches they add trios eletricos to the tomfoolery. The week before Carnaval Sunday, the unofficial Carnaval really starts. Several groups march through the city center each day and at least one baile kicks off each evening—time to practice that frevo.

Big-time Carnaval takes place from Saturday to Tuesday, nonstop. The big Carnaval groups parade in wonderful costumes, singing and dancing. For the parade route and schedule, check the local papers or the tourism office. Along Avenida Guararapes there's a popularfrevo dance that starts on Friday night and goes on and on.

Entertainment For reviews and listings of the latest bars, dance spots, and cultural events in Recife, pick up a copy of Veja.

There is usually live music in the center around Patio de Sao Pedro in the evening on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. The major nightlife center for Recife is Gracas district, which is a short taxi ride northwest of the city

center and is packed with bars and nightclubs. Some of the options in Gracas include Overpoint, at Rua Gracas 261, a popular meeting place and dance club; Cravo e Canela, at Rua das Creoulas 260, a suave and relaxed bar; New Hits, at Rua Gervasio Fioravante 111, a very active dance club; Depois do Escuro, at Rua da Amizade 178, and Canto das Aguas, at Rua das Pernambucanas (at the end of the street, beside the river), which are divided into separate sections with enough space allotted for quiet drinkers and frenetic dancers.

Things to Buy Recife is a good place to look for Pernambuco's traditional handicrafts, such as clay figurines, wood sculptures, leather goods and articles made from woven straw. Check out the shops and stalls in Casa da Cultura de Recife, Patio de sao Pedro, and markets such as Mercado de Sao Jose or the Feira de Arte e Artesanato, which is a market held in Boa Viagem during the late afternoon and evening on Saturday and Sunday.

BEACHES SOUTH OF RECIFE This is excellent beach territory protected by coral reefs. The sea is calm, the waters are crystal clear and the beaches are lined with coconut palms and white sand dunes. The coastal PE-060 road doesn't hug the ocean like the road in northern Alagoas, so you have to drive a dozen or so km on an access road to see what each beach is like. There are frequent bus services to all these beach towns from Recife.

Many of the towns have one or two simple hotels and, away from Recife, all have excellent camping.

Sao Jose da Coroa Grande The first beach town you reach after crossing into Pernambuco from Alagoas is Sao Jose da Coroa Grande.

It's 120 km from Recife on the PE-060 coastal road. This fishing town is receiving attention from property developers, mostly for construction of weekend homes.

BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

There are a few restaurants and bars and two hotels: the Hotel Valeiro on the beach, or the more comfortable Hotel do Frances, under French management, 200 meters back from the main beach.

Tamandare The next access road north of Sao Jose da Coroa Grande goes 10 km to the beach at Tamandare. There is a small fishing village here with a few restaurants and a couple of cheap hotels. The beach is idyllic and you can see the old 17th-century Forte Santo Inacio.

Other Beaches The road going north along the coast Tamandare will take you to the beach Ponta dos Manguinhos, Guadalupe, Camela and then heads to Barra de Sirinhaem where there is a 10-km access road back to the main road.

The only lodging in these towns is with the local fisherfolk. During the week the beaches are practically deserted. Off the coast is the Ilha de Santo Aleixo.

Porto de Galinhas Seventy km south of Recife is Porto de Galinhas (Port of Chickens). The name came as a result of the slave trade, which secretly continuec after abolition. Upon hearing that the chickens from Angola had arrived the masters of Recife knevi, to expect another load of slaves.

Porto de Galinhas has one of Pernambuco's most famous beaches, which curves along a pretty bay lined with coconut palms, mangroves and cashew trees. Unfortunately, there are some new housing estates creeping towards the town of Porto de Galinhas. Most of the beach, three km from town, is sheltered by a reef, but there are some waves for surfers. The water is warm and clear— you can see the colorful fish playing around your feet. There are plenty of jangadas fo. rent, but they're not cheap ($3.5 per person per hour). Other boats can take you out to Ilha de Santo Alexio for $15 per person.

Should you tire of Praia de Porto de Galinhas, head for Praia de Maracaipe, a more secluded beach three km away, which also has accommodation.

Gaibu & Cabo de Santo Agostinho Although Gaibu is the larger town further up the coast, beach bums should head only as far as Cabo de Santo Agostinho, one of the state's finest beaches There are facilities for snorkeling and spear-fishing. Take a walk to the ruins of the Forte Castelo do Mar, which is next to the church.

On a hill between Gaibu and Calheta (you have to ask around for directions) there's a small, freshwater stream that's used for nude bathing.

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Suape & Ilha do Paiva Suape has been developed as an industrial port. Heading north again, Ilha do Paiva, nicknamed the island of lovers, is popular for its nude beaches. Take a boat from Barra das Jangadas—it's worth a visit.

The mainland beaches here—Candeias, Venda Grande, Piedade—are semiurban beaches with many barracas, hotels, and crowds on weekends. But they are still good beaches, with clean water and sometimes strong surf.

(To he continued.)

THE BEST FARES

Excerpts from Bra:11A Travel Survival Kit 3rd edition,

by Andrew Draffen, Chris McAsey, Leonardo Pinheiro, and Robyn Jones.

For more information call Lonely Planet: (800) 275-8555.

Copyright 1996 Lonely Planet Publications.

Used by permission.

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oncrete ungle Postcards from Rio de Janeiro Cariocas (people from Rio) and Paulistas (those from S5o Paulo) are afraid to visit each other. It's too dangerous, they think.

All the big car manufacturers are in Sao Paulo, including GM, Toyota, Ford, and Mercedes. For a sales rep., it is like the biggest cake in the world to eat, but full of razor blades I am sure. I am just looking at the cake and drooling, and knowing I will be here very frequently.

JOHN MILLER

Thanks again to all those people who have written, sent gifts (sending flowers is a bit over the top, but much appreciated). I thought by this stage I might be running out of material, but it just gets more interesting (I hope for you as well). Boredom is a long way off. ,san. ..en

38

Sao Paulo How do you describe a city so this big? 18,000,000 people live here, the 3rd largest city in the world. It is the largest Japanese community outside of Japan (over 1,000,000 in Sao Paulo alone, and 3,000,000 in Brazil). There are over 12,000 buildings higher than 10 stories in this city, and two new buildings of this height are completed each day! I would love to have 1 cent for each ton of concrete in this town. It is an absolute jungle, far more intimidating than the Amazon.

Sao Paulo is at an elevation of over 800 meters, about 450 km from Rio. Even though we are near the tropic of Capricorn, Sao Paulo has a climate like Melbourne, four seasons in one day and is very famous for its mists, light rain, and fog.

Like Rio it has the most amazing road systems, really brilliant, but again about 3,000,000 cars too many using them. Gridlock is SOP. The taxi drivers seem somewhat less generous, and I got taken for an $60 round about trip one night in this featureless city (what can you do, ask to get out, and you have no idea where you are?). Few people seem to carry a street directory, but they know their way around. The air quality is less than perfect, as you would expect in a city that stretches from the equivalent of Wollongong to Gosford with 9,000,000 cars/trucks/buses. This could be the asthma capital of the world. Some other numbers to get your head around: 28,000 taxis (four times the number in New York), 12,000 public buses, 250 km of gridlock in peak hour.

People from Rio (Cariocas) are scared to come to sao Paulo as they think it is too dangerous. People from Sao Paulo (Paulistas) are afraid to come to Rio, as it is too dangerous. I am just a stranger in a strange land wherever I go, and cautious about everything.

BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

The economy of Sao Paulo City alone rivals New South Wales GDP if not a little more. All the big car manufacturers are here including GM, Fiat (supposedly Fiat's biggest plant in the world), Toyota, Ford, and Mercedes trucks/buses, and a few others. For a sales rep., it is like the biggest cake in the world to eat, but full of razor blades lam sure. So far, I am just looking at the cake and drooling, and knowing I will be here very frequently.

As to be expected the rivers that run through a city of this size are not suitable for fishing or swimming. Lots of work for Ian Kiernen (clean up Australia campaign leader) if he is short of things to do lately. Overall, outside of the favelas (shantytowns), the city seems to make quite an effort to keep clean. Brazil is a gifted country, with and abundance of fresh water, and hydro electricity so I guess if you make a mess of one or two rivers, you have plenty to choose from, but not sure this is the right attitude to take in the long term. Coming from such a dry continent as Australia, you look at the rivers in Brazil with much awe and I wish we could pipe some of this water to our dry continent.

The local city administration of Sao Paulo has a large public housing project under way (called Cingapura, named after the government housing and pension program in Singapore) to replace the favelas with some form of high rise housing commission. (Rio de Janeiro is doing the same, but not as advanced). Some problems with moving people into these new flats, as they often move in, sublet/sell the apartment to someone else and go back and live in the favelas. It is difficult to solve problems sometimes.

One Saturday afternoon, Marta, her cousin and I went to the Sao Paulo Formula 1 Grand Prix racetrack. It is a brilliant racetrack, much steeper and tighter than! expected. The ghost of Ayrton Senna can almost be felt racing around here. One of the really great aspects of this racetrack is that the entire racetrack is lower than the spectator area, with few buildings or trees to obstruct your view. Consequently, you can see almost the entire race from wherever you are situated, even in the bleachers or outer grassed BFtAZZIL -JANUARY 1999

areas. While we were there, the local 00cc bikes were practicing for races the next day. At the end, they put on an exhibition of trick riding and motorcycle dancing, lots of sparks, wheel stands (front and rear), "Look, mum no h nds" tricks, side saddle, feet saddle, head stand rides, bum slides, etc. One particular trick was impressed with was a rider would ride do n the straight at about 100 km/h. Then he woul kick the bike into neutral, full lock the front wheel, back flip the rear of the bike around, loCk the back wheel before it hits the ground, and then ride the bike backwards at about 60 kiffi/h in neutral. This is all done in about 0.5 seci Neat way to turn around or what.

On the Saturday night, Marta and I went to her uncles for a birthday of one of Marta's cousins. This is a real family do, the four B's (BBQ, beer, and black beans), cachaga, Scotch whisky, wine, and lots of laughs. Much poking fun about kangaroos on the BBQ and jumping steaks. Kids running everywhere and a little bottle dancing (use your vivid imagination to picture this), very entertaining I must say.

Marta and I spend some time talking to an old Brazilian Japanese man: He was seven years old when the firestorms started in Tokyo in 1944, and has the scars on his back to prove it. At fifteen, he left Japan to come to Sao Paulo to work in his uncles car repair yard as a panel beater. At 63, he has retired, his wife died two years ago, and he has left his chain of car spare parts stores to his sons to run. He basically wants to make love now to all the women in Brazil, and Marta had to beat him off with a stick.

Like some Japanese who have lived outside Japan for sometime, he has trouble identifying with current Japanese society. I am acutely aware of body language as a means of communication and it was interesting to see him retain many of the unique hand gestures of the Japanese (the vertical single clap of hands, the subtle eye contact and raising of eyebrow, the softer voice inflections, etc.).

More Bus Adventures We are not yet at the stage of throwing money around on business class airfares. So we go by air-conditioned chauffeur driven Mercedes. This is a real treat as we get to see some of the rural areas around Rio de Janeiro, including the fazendas (farms). The highway to Sao Paulo is dual carriage, and has about the

same element of risk as the highway between Sydney and Gold Coast.

Buses actually travel slower on the highway than they do in the streets of Rio. The countryside is gloriously green, lush, and beautiful, and the rivers are quite spectacular. Like parts of the south island of New Zealand.

The trip to Sao Paulo is rather uneventful, but not dull, although I have a great habit of falling asleep as soon as I sit in a bus. Marta and I get the best seats on the bus and I start singing the theme song from Midnight Cowboy.

Everybody's talking about you, I don't hear a word they're saying,

Only through the echoes of their mind, I'm going to where the sun keeps shining, Pouring on summer rain, Backing off the northeast wind.

Sailing on a summer breeze.

Drifting over the ocean, like a song.

Harry Nielson, eat your heart out.

Rattzo Rizzo would love this trip on this bus, and I still have his flu hanging around. Is that Jon Voight at the back of the bus with Dustin?

We arrive at the Sao Paulo bus terminal and it is like any bus terminal, except the passengers throw the luggage from the bus before it even stops to waiting relatives and friends.

It's chaos and you have to watch your luggage like a hawk. Taxi spruikers everywhere. Get me outta here.

39

stunning appearance, and the usual brilliant Ports and Madeira's on display. All the big Port winemakers are here, including Croft, Cockburn, Sandeman, and Delaforce. The Germans have the usual low end products like Blue Nun and Liebfraumilch (they have the market by the short a curlies here), but also some of the most stunning German Methode de Champagnes, Beerenauslese's, Eiswein' s, and Trockenbeeranaulese wines.

All class when they want to.

Strangely France is only represented sparsely by a few distributors, Chandon have a stand, and very few USA wines represented. The Sicilians come over and start bitching about OZ wine makers using geographical names that are not appropriate (I sympathize), but I felt the tone was one of piss off Aussies, we don't want the competition. The rest of the Italians are great and lots of fun, and some very good quality amongst the Northern Italian vignerons.

As for Australia, we have a modest 20 sq. meters in a good location. The novelty factor is off the scale. Penfolds Grange is on display at another stand but not for tasting. We are pouring the good oil down the throat of every Carlos, Julio and Maria who even remotely looks at our stand. Marta is working overtime on the stand helping translate my commentary on Home to Rio at last. Can't wait to get OZ plonk, and I have to on my bicycle and have a swim. We are have a rest every four tired, and fall asleep quickly that night. hours or I will end up Marta is wonderful. I love her very much. pissed as a fart.

I have some personal teething problems Sao Paulo Wine and on the first day. I am Spirit Exhibition I nearly forgot to tell you why we still recovering from went to Sao Paulo, the second annual another bout of diarSao Paulo Wine and Spirit exhibition. rhea, so when the rumbling starts, I have about This was held in the Bienal pavilion, 5 minutes before my about the same size as Darling harbor. body overcomes my The Germans and the Portuguese have mind. So I race off to massive exhibitions covering several the toilets, and guess hundred square meters. The German what, NO paper! I am stand is excellent, with the usual about to go into panic Fraulein's (why are they so big and mode, so I race back to buxom, big hands, big features, and so Marta and explain the problem. She goes dominating) to hand out the Riesling's off and talks to some administration and Schnapps. The Portuguese have also people and returns to say the problem is got a lot of costumed staff of even more solved. I go back into the toilet, and a guy

On the way back to Rio de Janeiro we decide not to book tickets in advance, and just roll up Sunday morning, as it should be pretty quiet. Wrong. The place is bedlam, but we finally get two seats on the return bus, and all is well, although some school students decide the bus is a good place to teach me how to speak Portuguese, so they play teacher and I play student. This is a lot of fun. The students are really excellent, very well behaved, take great personal pride in their clothes and grooming, and some spoke good English. I do a bit of geography and history of Australia with them, one of them was obviously a keen surfing type, and named many of Australia's famous surf beaches.

Halfway between the two cities is a town called Aparecida. The main feature of this town is the local church, or I should say CHURCH. It is the largest church in South America in the largest Catholic nation in the world. I would guess it would be 20 stories high, maybe 400-500 meters long, and 150-200 meters wide. The Pope has been here several times to give mass, forgive a few sins, break the bread, and drink a little wine.

On the Sunday we returned to Rio, I estimated there were 200-300 buses out front, maybe 30,000 people outside the church, God knows (I'm sure) how many inside. I have to go back and see this again, gee when man gets motivated about God; he can build some big edifices to his worship.

40

is handing out the paper one sheet at a time to the visitors. I ask for about 10 sheets, and he says no! Now I have to think quickly, as time is running out. I open my wallet and the smallest denomination note I have is $R 5 (approximately US$ 5). I hand it to him and he gives me three toilet rolls. This is the most expensive shit in my life, so I take my time and really enjoy it. Thank God that the worst of this round of looseness is nearly over. I also have a very cooperative water closet attendant, and he agrees to shine my shoes each day for the rest of the week, brush my clothes, comb my hair, and probably clean my teeth if I wanted.

The end of the first day there is a cocktail party for the exhibitors and a few special guests. The major sponsor, Playboy Brazil are the hosts, and what can I say, words fail to describe the elegance of these ladies (nothing as gouache as a bunny outfit these days please, the little black dress is still a girl's best friend). I have rope burn marks around my neck from the leash Marta has installed.

On the second day, I met a man by the name of Stewart Laing from Scotland. He is the managing director of the Douglas Laing and Company, a Scotch whisky distiller, blender and distributor with a few brand name products like John Player, etc. A really nice guy, a typical sweaty jock, and we hit it off like a house on fire. What is it about these Glasgow people that makes it so easy to like them. He lives in a castle outside Glasgow, can trace his family tree back 500 years, and is a walking encyclopedia about the history of Scotland. He was very impressed by Mel Gibson in Braveheart, except he wanted to see more English blood spilled on camera. I had the night out with him (Marta has been very generous with the leave passes), and we proceeded to push each others drinking skills to the limit. It BRAZZIL -JANUARY 1999

was no contest; I lost in 5 hours. Bang, that was my head hitting the floor when I got home. Not much sympathy from Marta that night, or in the morning.

Day three, the quietest day of the exhibition. We have a bit of spare time, and visit a few of the other stands, and get to taste some great wine, port, champagne, and whisky. That night dinner is at a 5-star Paulista restaurant, and waiters coming out from under the table to serve you. The owner of the restaurant, Maurice and his wife are hosting another table of people that were at the exhibition, and he is an absolute riot. He tells some good jokes about Paulistas and Cariocas.

Day four, and its like the burly is in the water and the sharks have come to feed. The place is swarming. Glass washing is a non-stop process, and Marta leads the way with her energy and enthusiasm. We win first prize (red wine), third prize (champagne), and Playboy best exhibitor award. Not bad for a bunch of Down Unders. The end of the exhibition, and we swap a few products with the other exhibitors, a nice way to finish.

Our new friend - Vanessa Outside our apartment, there is a girl by the name of Vanessa, ten years of age, who sells Chiclets (chewing gum) three nights a week on the streets to pay for her education. She lives in Niteroi, about 35 km and comes by bus at about 6:00 p.m. and goes home about midnight. Marta and I adore this girl very much, and we have bought her box of Chiclets three or four times now (and then give them all back to her when she looks up with these black pearl eyes). She is the cutest thing you ever saw, dark chocolate in color, and eyes that cry out for love and affection. She wants a set of roller blades badly; we will get these for her in a couple of months. But in the interim, if you are coming over this way, can you bring some warm clothes for her. She is a slight build, average height for a tenyear-old, very well groomed, very proud of her appearance, and will break your heart. She is very adorable, and you cannot refuse her. Good salesperson too.

Sells a shit load of Chiclets at outrageous prices.

You may ask why warm clothes are needed in a tropical climate like Rio de Janeiro? Well it is all a question of climatisation. I have yet to be cold in BRAZZIL -JANUARY 1999

Rio, a warm long sleeve shirt is the most that I have had to come at rugging u.

But for some of the poorer Cariocas, warm clothes are needed, scarce, and expensive. T-shirts are cheap and ava?able. But warm clothes are not so readily available. So if you come over, please find room in your luggage for some warm second hand clothes that you no longer need, and Marta and I will see that these get given to deserving people.

Newspapers No shortage of newspapers here. Four daily papers published in both Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro (all broadsheets). They range from very high quality tabloids through to the most vile, violently photographed graphic tabloid you have ever seen (this paper sickens me). 0 Globo appears the most popular and newsworthy, and it is the largeSt selling paper in Brazil. It is a good way to learn Portuguese as the pictures convey half the story and I can interpret the words with the pictures. The graphic artists for this paper are outstanding.

Beach Culture - Continued You will recall in last month's episode, we talked about the beach life Copacabana/Ipanema up to about 9:3 a.m. in the morning. Things were begi ning to hot up, the selling has co menced, the tourists are packing dow for a day of baking and frying, and the place is beginning to buzz. Let's continue.

OK, so it's time to oil up the bod .

Now this is a real art form, the way thi is done by the local Ipanema ladies. It' like a dance in some ways, with gre t elegance, and sense of performance. I don't know who is enjoying this mor the people watching, or the Girl fro Ipanema knowing she has half the beac watching her do this. There is saliv running down the chins of most mal tourists, and many are chain smokin four or five cigarettes at once. I saw on guy pour a beer down the front of hi

chest while watching one goddess do her routine. It is a laugh a minute.

Sport on the beach is big time. Beach volleyball is an institution here, and invented by Brazil. There are many varieties played; traditional six a side, four and two per side, and foot volleyball. I play sometimes six a side with a group of pensioners (my standard at present) early in the morning for about an hour one or two days a week.

The foot volleyball is the most difficult, and the skills displayed in this are just unbelievable. It is played with the same rules as soccer (you can use your legs, chest, and head, no arms) but with the rest of the rules as for two a side volleyball. Other sports include fresco ball, a type of shuttlecock with wooden bats and rubber ball, beach soccer, boogie and surfboards, chess, backgammon. No beach cricket so far.

Reading books on the beach seem to be mainly pastime of tourists. Wearing a Walkman is recommended if you want to blend in and not get too much attention from the sales staff on hand.

The action stays the same for most of the morning; the crowd picks up and by lunchtime it's in full swing. In front of the Caesar Park Hotel is the center of gravity for tourists. Watching old guys come to beach with the most beautiful ladies in their mid twenties draped on their arms is a real sight. No doubt the lady is charging an absolute fortune for her services, and he most probably can afford. After all, this is the oldest profession in the world, and the prices involved would tend to indicate the exploitation takes place in both directions.

Man and his Dog As only man knows, a special relationship exists between himself and his dog, something primeval. Man has been involved with the domestication of dogs for thousands of years. A dog is a man's best friend, right? A dog can provide warmth, affection, security, hunting skills, companionship, and just a load of fun. A dog is loyal. A dog and man is like ham and eggs, they go together. A dog 41

has character, a dog can make a man feel good about life. A man and his dog are amigos for life. A dog is a dog.

So what happens with a poodle? I don't know, all I can say is a man and a fancied up poodle don't work for me.

Now I hear all you Oxford Street people saying this is prejudice, it's anti gay, or what. It's not. I just don't like poodles as man's best friend. Yes, it's mincy. It's very European I know. And lot of men here have poodles. But I just think it looks, well, to put it bluntly, it's like eating ice cream with a big juicy steak. It just does not work. OK, so maybe my tastes in dogs runs to border collies, Labradors, blue heelers, and those big dogs that slobber everywhere, but for start, I would have a dog that has a real bark, like 'woof' not like a poodle that yikes.' And a dog has to walk like a dog, with a sense of 'Hey man, I'm relaxed, I'm on all fours, I'm balanced, in control of the situation.' A poodle walks like it should be wearing high heel shoes. A dog should show affection like men, shake hands and hug each other, not like kissing on the cheek.

The bizarre thing about this is the women of Ipanema seem to walk all the German shepherds, Labradors, huskies, and other sorts of macho dogs. I am out of touch with this thing about dogs. But don't even remotely suggest a cat to me.

Plataforma One One Saturday night in May, Marta and I went to Plataforma One, the largest and most famous of the samba show houses in Rio de Janeiro. It is situated in Leblon, in a large auditorium reminiscent of the old Palais Theatre in St Kilda, and decor of this vintage to match. The place seats about 1500 patrons at tables and tiny chairs, and the stage area would be about 20 meters wide with a 25 meters long cat walk down the middle.

We arrived at about 9:30 p.m. to be given very good seats, and within another 15 minutes it is packed with the usual bus loads of European, USA, and other Latin American tourists. Lots of photo sessions with the showgirls ($11 per photo), and then the maestro and music starts. About 2 hours later the show concludes. Cost is about $30.

As for the show, it involves a 10piece live band, four or five backing vocalists, about 40-50 female and 20-30 odd male dancers. The highlight of this 42

whole experience is the costumes, which enjoying myself, and contemplating the reflects a wide cross section of Brazilian meaning of life."

Paulista: "But if you were working culture, dance, and life styles. The costumes vary from minimal to the most and shining shoes you could make some elaborate Carnaval Queen outfits you money."

Carioca: "But why?" could imagine.

Paulista: "So you could open a shop The dancing and show covers a number of styles including baido, samba, and get more customers and shine more frevo, maracatu, and lambada. African shoes and make some more money."

Carioca: "But why?" influences in abundance. It is really well Paulista: "So you could hire people choreographed and very entertaining. As this is obviously geared for tourists, I to work for you, and shine more shoes, look forward to experiencing more au- and make even more money."

Carioca: "But why?" thentic examples when Marta and I get to Paulista: "So you could open up more go to Salvador and Bahia.

For those with an eye for a keen shops, and franchise, and make even physique, the bodies of all the men and more money."

Carioca: "But why?" women are just adorable and gorgeous.

Paulista: "So you could then relax, The men are just as well toned, tanned and rippling in muscles as the women. take a holiday and go the beach."

Carioca: "I think that's what I am And teeth that the Colgate toothpaste peoples should be sponsoring. It is hot doing now." work up on stage, especially for the men The things I love who do a very physically demanding and enjoy in Brazil dance and gymnastic routine called capoeira (like a mixture of non-contact * Vanessa, world Chiclets sales Kung Fu and Olympic gymnastics), and are covered in perspiration at the end of champion. * The sense of learning that is taking the show.

Not having been to the famous Lido place. shows in Paris, it is hard to compare, but * Fresh coffee * Marta's family. you would have to be ultimate wowser * The rare occasions when it is quiet. not to enjoy this night out. * Feijoada & Churrascaria.

Brazilian Humor * Televised bottle dancing. * Marta's Mum, Marina (can she Maurice told this joke to me, the owner of the restaurant mentioned ear- cook or what). * Cold showers on a warm night. lier. It is very subtle, and shows the relationship, opinion, attitude and envy * Melrose Place in Portuguese. between the Paulista and the Carioca. * Music in Brazil * "Domingo do Faustao" A Paulista comes to Rio on a Monday, and goes to Copacabana and sees a * Beach culture * The warmth of Brazilian hospitalCarioca on the beach at 2:00 p. m. in the afternoon. The Carioca is sitting in a ity beach chair, sunglasses on, fully reclined, and enjoying the sun, surf and atmoJohn Miller is an Australian, living in Rio de Janeiro, selling Australian sphere to the maximum. wine. 'Postcards from Rio' is a journal Paulista: "Hey, Carioca, and are you doing?" of his journey in the land of the Carioca: "I'm relaxing, enjoying Cariocas. myself, and contemplating the meaning For contact: of life."

John Miller Paulista: "But why are you not workRua Joaquim Nabuco, 106 / Apt ing? Don't you have a job? What work 1001 do you do?"

Copacabana, CEP 22080-030 Carioca: "Of course I have a job. I Rio de Janeiro shine shoes."

Brazil Paulista: "Then why are you not shinTel: +55 (021) 521 8568 ing shoes?"

E-mail: Carioca: "Because I am relaxing,, millerario.nutecnet.com.br BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

Music is always that forms and changing. It changes controls public because of the times opinion, and they and the technology are dancing to available. "World forro all night!

Music," a term According to broadly used. legend, the term evolved as a result forro developed in of this technology. the early 1900's but has always deswhen the English ignated what is murailroad company sically exotic to Great Western North American and promoted a dance Gathering more force with each presentation, English ears. And (some say weekMestre Ambrosio is driving and defining the typically, these ears end parties) to Northeastern pop movement and preparing the have associated Bracommemorate the release of their second CD for the Sony Llbel. zilian music with opening of their samba, bossa nova, first railroad in the BRUCE GILMAN and more recently interior of Perthe Afro-Bahian nambuco. Supforms. Northeastern Brazilian music, once considered low posedly, at the door to the dance a placard gave notice that the class by cosmopolitan Brazilians, and either unknown or just celebration was "For All," a phrase which Brazilian railroad ignored everywhere else, is today renovating what was workers prono nced "forro." In reality, the term had more to called "MPB" (Mitsica Popular Brasileira—Brazilian Popudo with the frican word from the Bantu language lar Music) and tingling auditory nerves worldwide. "forrobodo" (b g party) that was brought by slaves to Brazil The rediscovery and conversion of Northeastern music and which ap eared in a dictionary as far back as the to a commanding pop posture is one of the most refreshing eighteenth cen ry. In either case,forro was the springboard waves to wash up on the Brazilian music scene since Recife's for an eclectic ound from Brazil that has captured World Armorial movement in the 1970's. A public that once conMusic's attenti n—the Mangue Beat. ceived of Nordeste music as a simple-minded folk genre is Originally 1 unched as "mangue bit"—a phrase figuranow finding it as contemporary and as inviting as hip-hop tively used to c ntrast the bit of a computer with the poverty and drum 'n' bass. Nightclubs in Rio and sao Paulo accusof the region— e movement became known as "Mangue tomed to rhythms more "refined" are packed with the trendiBeat" through istakes made in the Brazilian press. The est big city people. Kids from middle class families, profesmovement was spearheaded in Recife by Chico Science of sionals, and intellectuals are all squeezing together, surrenChico Science Nacdo Zumbi and Fred Zero Quatro of dering, and shaking to these "rude" Northeastern rhythms. If Mundo Livre A (Sociedade Anonima—incorporated) in this crowd were comprised solely of people from the Norththe early 1990s. The Mangue Beat, however, is not a east who migrated to these urban areas and who were longing specific beat o rhythmic pattern, and the creators of this for their homeland, it would be understandable. But these style all have c mpositions that are rather different in their venues are jam packed with the segment of the population approach to rh hm. The movement's main characteristic is

Recife's Repercussion Unit

BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

43

Tr71mir".117 , Pe-de-Calcada Foot of the Sidewal its diversity of ideas and (Siba) rhythms.

Before the emergence of Mas eu fui num fora) no Well, I went to a forty') at the "mangue" there had been few pe duma serra foot of the mountain resources or opportunities for Nunca nessa terra Never in this world have ',seen bands or for Pernambuco's travi uma coisa igual anything like this Mas eu fui num forro Well, I went to a forr at *le ditional music in general. By no pe duma serra foot of the mountain the musicians' reaching out to Cume quente, baiano Hot, sensational Baiano the world's pop music while at sensacional food the same time rediscovering the region's own folk roots, Rebeca veia do pinho de Old rabeca from the arvoredo pine tree the entire city witnessed an Espalhava baiano no said() Spread people throughout the mom increase in self-esteem and an opening up of new perspec- 0 pandeiro tremia a maquinada The pandeiro shook the machines Eu vi a poeira subir do chdo I saw dust raising from the floor tives. The movement showed that it was possible, even in Hoje eu fag() foxfp em pe de Today I play forro at the foot of Recife, far from the biggest calcada the sidewalk No meio da zuada pela Amidst the huitt cultural industries of the councontra-mdo traffic try, for bands to record CD's, Eu fui Ia na mata e voltei pra. I went to the woods and came to produce video clips, and to cidade back to the city arrange tours outside the counDe caboco eu sei minha A guy like me understands his try. Hence the symbol of the situaedo situation movement—a parabolic anRebeca veia ndo me abandona Old rabeca doesn't abandon me tenna stuck firmly in the mud Zabumba treme-terra, come o Zabumba shakes the earth, eats of Recife while picking up sigchdo the floor nals from around the globe.

Na hora que o tempo desaparece Then time disappears One of the most impresTransforma em pe Transforming foot of the sive ensembles to emerge from de serra o calcaddo mountain into sidewalk this environment, and certainly the one currently riding the Tres Ve Three Cheap crest of this latest Brazilian surge, is Mestre Ambrosio, a band that figures prominently Bebeu cana nas tres He drank in three ciékp bars both in the mangue movement Engoliu cobra coral And swallowed a Oral snake and in the fort-6 scenario.

Mestre Ambrosio came out of Ndo vá Ia mano Don't go there, brother The thugs will catch you Que os cabra pega voce Recife in October 1992 with E a cana jã tá cortada And the whiskey is already cut the concept of bringing NorthNdo tern pr' onde se You don't have a place eastern dances, rhythms, and esconder to hide instruments—especially Pernambucan—up to date. By Vadeia mano Go another way, brother performing a repertoire of coEscuta o que eu digo a tu Listen to what I tell you Melhor td no teu terreiro It's better to be in your yard cos, emboladas, maracatus Sambando maracatu Dancing maracatu (1), reisados, cirandas (2), and bai5es on instruments indicaHe drank in three ch p bars Bebeu cana nas tres vendas tive of these styles: sanfona, Engoliu cobra coral And swallowed a co snake rabeca (a type of rustic violin), triangle, and zabumba as Pra ir Ia mano To go there, brother Listen to what I tell you Escuta o que eu digo a voce well as electric guitar and bass; To drink with those guys Beber corn a cabocaria Mestre Ambr6sio embraced a Muito macho tem de ser You have to be very rough broad spectrum of musical To catch a live snake Pra pegar na cobra viva styles, while retaining a founMatar coin o dente e comer To kill with your teeth and eat dation firmly fixed in fort-6.

Where Chico Science's sound Vou chamar minhas I'm going to call my cobrinha little snake was a blend of external influFrom the trunk of the Do tronco do ences, which were developed juremd juremci tree with incremental touches of Surucucu, cascave Surucucu, cascave regional music; Mestre AmSalamanta, jiricoa* Salamanta, jiricod brosio started with these "incremental touches" and Bebeu cana nas tits vendas He drank in three cheap bars Engoliu cobra coral And swallowed a coral snake evolved with external influences. Their music is tinged with traditional forms though * This is a line from a spiritual practice traditional in not bound by them. the Northeast of Brazil. Surucucu, cascave, salamanta, and jiricoci are different kinds of cobra snakes.

This is a group of "musi44

cians' musicians" that has continually experimented with new sounds and new ways of expressing traditional forms, a band that has searched for original music that is deeply rooted in their heritage. Mestre Ambrosio's endless reservoir of energy and determination has made them an important influence and stimulus for new groups while their timbric coloring and original harmonic treatments has drawn established artists to go out of their way to hear and to record with them. Ambrosio's singular purpose—playing today's Pernambucan music—has sparked a tremendous increase of interest in traditional rhythms throughout Brazil and catapulted the band into the international spotlight. Among experts, Mestre AmbrOsio is considered "the band."

Each member of Mestre AmbrOsio has a long list of performing, teaching, and recording credits that spans from traditional street theater and Carnaval to composing and recording sound tracks for feature films. All have played with ensembles of the most diverse genres from jazz to Afro-Brazilian to samba-reggae to rock.

A blow by blow (or note for note) rundown of each player's career would be too exhaustive as all have been stalwarts on the scene for years. I have included only abbreviated biographical sketches at the end of this article. Suffice it to say that these musicians are among the elite talent in Brazil. Mestre Ambrosio is: Mauricio Alves, percussion; Sergio Cassiano, percussion and voice; Mazinho Lima, bass, triangle, and voice; "0" Rocha, percussion; Siba, rabeca, electric guitar, folk acoustic guitar, and voice; and Helder Vasconcelos, foie de oito baixos (3), percussion, and voice.

The conceptual seed for Mestre Ambrosio was planted at the end of the 1980's when Siba and "0" Rocha, playing together in a Recife rock band, awakened to the need of immersing themselves in the music of Pernambuco. Helder BRA77IL - JANUARY 1999

Vasconcelos was playing samba-reggae, but through Siba came into contact with the traditions of the Zona da Mata Norte (the forested region between Recife, capital of Pernambuco, and Joao Pessoa, capital of Paraiba). After a few performances together, the three went into the studio where the ensemble idea took root. Siba suggested the name Mestre Ambrosio, a character of Cavalo Marinho (4) who symbolizes variety.

This trio built a repertoire based on the traditional fort-6 Pe-de-Serra (Foot of the Mountain), a style that is driven by the remarkable sonority of the rabeca.

They supplemented this with cocos, bai5es from Cavalo Marinho, interpretations of compositions by Luiz Gonzaga, Jackson do Pandeiro, and the Banda de Pifanos of Caruaru as well as Mestre AmbrOsio's first original compositions. It was a period of conceptual development, and they experimented with both acoustic and electric instruments: rabeca, keyboard, guitar, and percussion. When a tour was arranged

through Caruaru—the capital of forro—the trio invited Mazinho Lima. Lima's singing brought out the repertoire's hidden potential, and trio became quartet.

Individual tastes ran the gamut from rock 'n' roll to jazz, from pop to African music and from Caribbean to Arabic. They were like four artists all painting an articulate work on the same canvas but with different brushes. As forro Pe-de-Serra filtered through these perspectives, the group established a kind of fort-6 called "Pe-de-Calcada"--urban music with a rural feeling. This name was actually given to the band by the late Mestre Tavares da Gaita (5), who upon hearing the band executing forro with such intensity and in the traditional style exclaimed, "This forro is no longer Pe-de-Serra. No, it's Pe-de-Calcada (Foot of the Sidewalk)!"

Every Wednesday from June until November 1993, Mestre Ambr6sio performed at the Soparia bar in Caruaru. It was in this setting, playing forro in the Pe-de-Calcada style, that the group crafted the formal outline of their show and developed the base of their popular support. It was also in this setting that they recognized the powerful affinity between the music BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

scene in P rnambuco and what was happening in African po . In order to further explore these similarities and son rities, percussionist Mauricio Alves came into the fold, and quartet became quintet.

Their original compositions started taking on powerful dimensions. At the same time, however, there continued o be a significant demand for forro. plysolution was to play two repertoires and AmbrOsio's start using o names: Mestre Ambrosio Eletrico and Mestre AmbrOsio Acastico. This dual repertoire allowed the band to play the entire circuit of shows in the city, fro parties, bars, and nightclubs to official festivals an ' rock concerts in theaters and at universities. In se eral shows, like the Abril Pro Rock, Ambresio s arted with the electric repertoire and finished wit the acoustic.

As the ovement in Recife became more and more promi ing, especially with the repercussions of the beginni g of the Mangue Beat movement, the band grew i prestige and became recognized as one oft e most representative ofthe city. Percussio ist Sergio Cassiano, a musician who had bee active in the city for several years and was a part of this circuit, joined the group in November 1994, completing the lineup. From that point, AmbrOsio went to many stages, som of them shared with names like Lenine & S zano, Chico Science & Nacao Zumbi, Nan Vasconcelos, Antonio Carlos da Nob ega, and Mundo Livre S.A.. When the deci ion was made to record the first CD, the ban reached a milestone. As this would defi e the musical profile of Mestre Am • rosio, there was no longer room for two repe oires. eir self-titled CD was recorded betwee September and December 1995 at the ConS ervatOrio Pernambucano de MUsica, Reci e; produced by Lenine, Suzano, and Deni son (the same trio that made Olho de Peix , one of the ten best Brazilian CD's of 1994); and r leased in January 1996. The graphic layout of the o roject has as its aesthetic principal the illustrative w o odcuts associated with Literatura de Cordel (No il eastern folk literature). Dolores & Morales, the same duo that developed the graphic layout for th first CD by Chico Science & Nacao Zumbi, creat d the wood carvings for AmbrOsio's project and dii ected the MTV video clips that brought the band a to ent of critical acclaim.

Possessin• an overabundance of first-rate material and demo strating a unified creative force throughout—writing playing, and production; Mestre AmbrOsio's sebut CD is a Northeastern piece de resistance. Ca alo Marinho, Maracatu de Baque Solto, Baque Virado baides,cocos, the music of Candomble and the Terrei os de Umbanda, and their own compositions (most of them from Siba), as well as free adaptations o Brazilian folk manifestations, forge the base of the D. Acoustic instrumentation prevails with rabeca aid percussion being especially prominent. Keybo d parts are played by fole de oito baixos, but b ss and electric guitar occur on some pieces. The se enteen tracks not only offer the band's dazzling creat ity and musicianship but also narrate 45

Northeastern culture in vignettes particularly Pernambucan.

"Jose" launches the proceedings and tells the story of a careless guy who doesn't seem to realize that he is wandering through no-man's-land. But in truth, Jose knows very well where to step in order to find what he seeks. "0" Rocha' s zabumba and Siba's rabecas are inspiring and propulsive elements on this tune, which has elements of Cavalo Marinho, coco, bard°, samba, and samba de mestre (traditional beat of Umbanda).

"Jose" was included on the compilation Strictly Worldwide released by the German label Piranha Records.

In"Se Ze Limeira Sambasse Maracatu" (IfZe Limeira Would Dance Maracatu), the poet of the absurd comes out in the real world ofthe rural maracatu. After witnessing an apparition, Ze Limeira's perspective changes.

The flora and fauna as well as the political and social realities have changed and will never be the same again.

Lucio Maia ofNacao Zumbi supplies this maracatu rural with soaring electric guitar lines setting up a howling melodic drone. "Se Ze Limeira Sambasse Maracatu" was included on the CD MTV Video Music Brasil 96 in the Banda/ Artista Revelacao category.

"Pe-de-Calcada" (Foot of the Sidewalk), a tune inspired by the old Pe-de-Serra forro dances, is ignited by the sonority of Siba's profuse and virtuosic rabeca playing, which has the subtlety of a flame thrower. "Forro de Primeira" (Outstanding Forr6), written by Helder and Heleno dos Oito Baixos is hypnotically pulsing with Mauricio delivering a spectrum of contrasting rhythmic dissonances on cuica. Suzano's pandeiro here is an inspiring propulsive element that makes it evident why his reputation continues to grow so rapidly. The melody and rhythm "Jatoba" (A Woodland) is inherited directly from the ternos de pifanos (fife trio) of Caruaru. Carlos Malta playing Northeastern fifes generates an enormous amount of excitement as he pushes the entire tonal and rhythmic palette with urgency, awesome "chops," and expansive melodic creativity. You had better super-glue your feet to the floor, for these three raucous tunes will rouse.

"Tr'es Vendas" (Three Cheap Bars) is a story told of the tracks of land near the creeks in the city of Alianca (a city in the interior of Pernambuco) where all the macho guys (the caboclos) in the cheap bars are drinking sugar cane alcohol and eating live snakes as appetizers when a stranger comes along unprepared for the local fare. The rhythm is bald° with touches of traditional Umbanda: samba de mestre, samba de Angola, and quebra-louca.

"0" Rocha reveals the deep well of creative ideas he has to draw upon as he propels then suspends the rhythm on zabumba and bombo. "Baile Catingoso" (Foul Smelling Ball), a tune from the sound track for the Pernambucan full-length feature film Baile Perfumado, tells the story of how the members of Lampiao's outlaw band enter46

tained themselves eating, drinking, dancing, and taking baths in perfume, while musicians under the threat of death were coerced to animate the outlaws' dancing and fooling around.

"Mensagem Pra Ze Calixto" (Message for Ze Calixto) is T. a posthumous homage to the great master of thefole de oito baixos. Mestre AmbrOsio' s connection to Ze Calixto began with an unexpected development at a celebration of Sao Joao. When the band took a break, Helder put on a tape of Mestre AmbrOsio performing a version of a song Siba had learned from some old rabequeiros. Guests at the party informed Helder that the composer was Ze Calixto. This triggered the band's search for recordings by Ze Calixto— there were more than thirty. When they first started listening to the recordings, they understood that Ze Calixto had already died. The tune "Mensagem Pra Ze Calixto" is addressed to the "beyond." Later they discovered that Ze Calixto was alive and well and was living in Rio de Janeiro.

Another search ensued and Ze was found. Mestre Ambr6sio invited him to answer their message in person by recording

"Mensagem Pra Ze Calixto- with them. Due to the particular tuning of Ze Calixto's instrument the hoped-for recording didn't come to fruition. He is heard, however, on "A Feira de Caruaru" (The Market of Caruaru).

"Pipoca Moderna" (Modern Popcorn) is an atmospheric sound-blend of one of the Northeast's most characteristic melodies and a tune that begs re-listening. Mestre Ambr6sio's version is performed as a samba with rabeca and the instrumentation of terno de pifanos. "A Roseira/Onde a Moca Mijou" (The Rosebush / Where the Girl Peed) is a goodhumored fantasy with elements of the eternal Northeastern imagination: violence, drought, magical realism, rain, and jealousy. "Benjaab" is inspired both rhythmically and vocally by a song from Mauritania. It is a composition in which the rabeca's origin becomes obvious: the instrument, a consequence of the Arabic presence in the Iberian Peninsula, arrived in the Northeast of Brazil during the Portuguese colonization. "Benjaab" features Lenine on vocals.

Mestre Ambrosio became the fourth group on the Pernambucan scene to release a CD. Their show has grown BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

and started to incorporate powerA Roseira / The Rosebush / ful visual and dance nuances unOnde a Mop Mijou Where the Young Girl der the scenic direction of Patricia Peed (Waldemar Oliveira Sene, dancer and graduate reand Luiz Oliveira) searcher from the Universidade Estadual de Campinas (State Uni0 mundo estava em guerra The world was at war versity ofCampinas). In July 1996, Ninguem mais se entendia No one understood the band made its first tour of CanhOes de artilharia Cannons of artillery Europe, performing in eleven citDavam tiros sobre Were firing shots above ies in five countries: Germany, a terra the land Portugal, Spain, Belgium, and Foi ai que Ia na And it was there 'in the Luxembourg. Following the Euserra mountains ropean tour, the band made a tour Tudo se modificou That everything changed of fourteen cities in the interior of Quando alguem anunciou When someone announced Pernambuco and Recife and parDisparado na carreira Racing down the trail ticipated in shows with Chico Nasceu um pe de roseira A rosebush was born Cesar. They played a number of Onde a moca mijou! Where the younglgirl peed! performance seasons in Sdo Paulo Onde antes In the place where including Tom Brasil and the Pals6 havia there was only ace (Heineken Concert) and made Desolacao e tristeza Desolation and sadness excursions to several Brazilian citPouco a pouco a natureza Little by little Nature ies performing at important sites Alegremente sorria Joyously was smiling like the Teatro Nacional de Brasilia A vegetacao crescia Vegetation was growing and in major festivals like the FesE urn riacho se formou And a creek was formed tival de Invemo de Ouro Preto. In A agua tanto aumentou The great water increased June of 1997, the group traveled to Que fez uma cachoeira And created a waterfall the United States to perform at Nasceu um pe de roseira A rosebush was born New York's Summer Stage in Onde a moca mijou! Where the young girl peed!

Central Park; they also played at the historic CafĂŠ Wha in the VilAcabou-se a tristeza Sadness was over lage.

Ninguem mais au i chorava No one there crie With a seasoned show, overPor all s6 se For there, people ivere only whelming international accepfalava speaking of Na rosa e sua beleza The rose and its beauty tance, and impressive sales of the Como ĂŠ linda a natureza And how beautiful Nature is first self-titled CD, Mestre AmbroDepois que a rosa brotou After the rose bloomed sio closed a deal with Sony Music Foi ela quern nos deixou It was she who left us on November 4, 1997, and is now Essa linda cachoeira This beautiful waterfall awaiting the release of their secNasceu um pe de roseira A rosebush was bottnt ond CD. The project, recorded in Onde a mop. mijou! Where the young girl peed!

SAo Paulo and mixed at Looking Glass Studio in New York, is set Foi tdo grande a emocao The emotion was so great for release early this year. ProEra tanta There was so much duced by Siba and Antoine Midani, alegria happiness the new disc will feature Sergio Que todo mundo That everybody was Cassiano sharing lead vocals with corria running Siba as well as tunes written by a No meio da multidao Among the crowd wide circle of composers in partDemonstrando gratiddo Showing gratitude Todo mundo se abracou Everyone hugged 9ach other nership with Mestre Ambrosio. A E alegremente cantou And sang joyously second tour of Europe and the Repetindo a noite Repeating through6ut the United States and their first tour to inteira night Japan is also anticipated for 1999.

Nasceu urn pe de roseira A rosebush was born It is almost impossible to praise Onde a moca mijou! Where the young girl peed! their debut too highly. Mestre AmbrOsio is a frighteningly talFoi ai que a It was at that moment the ented contingent of gifted, young velhinha old woman musicians who communicate Que nao dava mais no couro Who could do nothing else Northeastern music with great inAchou que era Found the mystery of the tensity, sensitivity, and respect. desaforo young girl They are a band whose unity of 0 misterio da mocinha Was an insult purpose impresses the listener and Pegou sua bengalinha She picked up her little cane whose degree of musical sophistiE para a serra rumou And walked to the mountain cation and consistency supersedes Quando ele se acocorou When she squatted Foi aquela cachoeira It was her waterfall previous standards of excellence.

Matou o pe de roseira That killed the rosebush They are a band that has passed Onde a moca mijou... Where the young gi 1 peed... through the gateway of their na-

tive streets into international acclaim.

(1) Maracatu, a popular manifestation ofCarnaval, is a processional of the court of a king and queen with their retinue: flag, singer, musicians, caboclos, and Baianas among other figures. Maracatu de Baque Solto (loose beat) also called Maracatu Rural, and Maracatu de Baque Virado (turned around beat) also called Maracatu Naga() are two existing types of maracatu.

Besides the names and their appearance in Carnaval, there are very few similarities between the two maracatus.

Maracatu de Baque Solto / Maracatu Rural as the name implies is performed in rural areas, more precisely in the Zona da Mata, the region of sugar cane cultivation. The rhythm is extremely fast, thus the name so/to or loose. One of the principal figures is the Caboclo de Pena. An important characteristic that occurs in the Maracatu Rural is the improvised poetry. In the rehearsals that occur some months before Carnaval, two masters have an improvisational contest for an entire night, each with his own trio ofmusicians(terno). The terno is comprised of a small drum (bombo), shallow two-headed drum (tarol), gongue (cowbell), ganza (tubular metal shaker also called a mineiro), and a cuica (called poica). Maracatu Rural also utilizes some brass instruments: trumpet, sax, or trombone, without a fixed number.

Maracatu de Baque Virado / Maracatu Nacao is one of the oldest manifestations of Brazil. It has an intimate relationship with Afro-Brazilian culture and Candomble. The baque is the rhythm. In Maracatu Nacao, the rhythm feels like it is dragging or a little behind the beat. The instruments used are alfaia (a wooden drum with an animal skin tied with cords), caixas (wicker baskets filled with seeds and used as a shaker) gongue, and ganza. This mani-

BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999 47

festation migrated to the state of Ceara where it developed other nuances in the form of its presentation and in the rhythm, resulting in a rhythm even more "held back."

(2) Ciranda is basically a song played by an ensemble comprised of a small bombo, caixa, a mineiro, a brass instrument (usually a trumpet), and a mestre who sings. It is danced in a round without limit or restrictions as to the number of participants. Originally, only lower class people participated, but after some time the ciranda became popular with the middle class; it is now enjoyed by all levels of society throughout Brazil.

(3) Fole de Oito Baixos or Sanfona Oito Baixos (Diatonic Accordion) is an instrument that takes its name from the eight bass buttons arranged in two rows for the player's left hand.

It was brought to Brazil by the Portuguese colonizers and became part of Northeastern tradition. Forro is intimately connected to this instrument and vice-versa. The father offorro, Luiz Gonzaga played oito baixos. The instrument has a particular appeal that goes beyond its characteristic tone, which is quite different from the modern accordion. The fole de oito baixos has become a cultural symbol in a society that is revalidating its musical legacy, and since professional players of the instrument are few, a patina has been added to the symbol.

(4) Cavalo Marinho (Sea Horse) is a form of street theater in the Zona da Mata Norte de Pernambuco that unites music, dance, and poetry with the appearance of various characters.

It is a variation of the popular folklore of Pernambuco called "Bumba-Meu-Boi," which occurs in almost every section of Brazil, each region having its own particular characteristics.

The basic scenario of Cavalo Marinho is a dance in which the "Capita° Marinho" makes an offering to the "Santos Reis do Oriente" (the three wise men). The group of musicians for Cavalo Marinho is called banco as they play seated on a bench. The instrumentation is rabeca (or rebeca), a pandeiro, one or two bajes (a reco-reco made of wood), and a mineiro. Cavalo Marinho is performed between the months of June and February, generally on Saturday nights, but most often during Christmas and The Day of the Wise Men (January 6th—the day the three wise men approached the manger).

(5) Mestre Tavares da Gaita was a master Northeastern musician and inventor of musical instruments who could cajole music from any object. His instruments are used by Nana Vasconcelos who dedicated his last CD to the mestre. Tavares da Gaita can be heard on the CD Pe de Serra/Forr6 Band, Brazil (Welt Musik SM 1509-2).

Bruce Gilman, music editor for Brazzil, received his Masters degree in music from California Institute of the Arts. He leads the Brazilian jazz ensemble Axe and plays cuica for escola de samba MILA. You can reach him through his e-mail: cuicaginterworld.net

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES Siba (rabeca, electric guitar, folk acoustic guitar, and voice), a graduate in music from the Federal University of Pernambuco was the rabequeiro (rabeca musician) in the Cavalo Marinho group of the great Mestre Batista from 1992-1993 and also played with Mestre Salustiano in the Maracatu Rural "Piaba de Ouro." Siba plays the role of the Caboclo de Lanca in the Maracatu "Estrela de Ouro" and has developed the role through his consummate improvisations. At the University his research on "The Rabeca in the Zona da Mata Norte of Pernambuco" was honored by the Congresso de Iniciacao Cientifica (Congress of Scientific Initiation) in 1994. Siba played on "Todos Estao Surdos" (Everybody's Deaf) recorded by Chico Science & Nacao Zumbi on the CD Rei, and together with Chico Science and Fred 04 composed the sound track for the full length feature film 0 Baile Perfumado (The Perfumed Ball). Siba can also be heard playing rabeca on the sound track to the film Central Station.

Helder Vasconcelos (foie de oito baixos, percussion, and voice) is an actor and dancer who graduated in Mechanical Engineering from the University of Pernambuco. He has been performing as the Caboclo de Pena in the Maracatu Rural "Piaba de Ouro" of Mestre Salustiano since 1992. His principal teacher (and great friend) Heleno dos Oito Baixos, one of Brazil's living musical treasures, can be heard on the CD's Pe de Serra/ Forr6 Band, Brazil (Welt Musik SM 1509-2) and also on Brazil: Forro/ Music for Maids and Taxi Drivers (Rounder CD 5044).

Mazinho Lima (bass, triangle, and voice) is a self-taught musician who has played professionally since he was fifteen years old.

Sergio Cassiano (percussion and voice) graduated in music from the Federal University of Pernambuco. He has preformed with several theater groups as a musician and actor including "Havia Brasil" (There was a Brazil) and "Cor-de-Chuva" (Color of Rain). He played on the soundtracks for the plays Quixotinadas, Um Deus Dormiu La em Casa (A God Slept There at Home), and Salubaf, and created the sound effects for the piece 0 Pastoril do Veio Cangote. Additionally, he has performed with Nana Vasconcelos, Ivan Lins, and has recorded with numerous artists including Sergio Mendes.

"0" Rocha, (percussion) a student of Nana Vasconcelos and Robertinho Silva, graduated from the Erudite Percussion program of the Centro Profissionalizante de Criatividade Musical do Recife (Professional Center of Musical Creativity in Recife). Besides his ten years as drummer of the rock group Arame Farpado (Barbed Wire) and various other pop and rock ensembles, he was a member of Recife's Symphonic Band, the Orquestra de Duda, and the Symphonic Orchestras of Recife, Olinda, and Rio Grande do Norte. He has performed in the Maracatu de Baque Solto "Aguia de Ouro" (Golden Eagle) and today is a member of the Maracatu de Baque Virado "Estrela Brilhante" (Dazzling Star). "0" Rocha formed and directed the percussion group Angaatanamii that performed on the CD AmazOnica (Sony Classical SK 62882).

Although dancer and percussionist Mauricio Alves also studied with Nand Vasconcelos, Robertinho Silva, and at the Centro Profissionalizante de Criatividade Musical do Recife, his primary development came from his childhood involvement in his community's centers of Afro-Brazilian culture. He has participated in the Escola de Samba Caboclinho and countlessfrevo and capoeira groups; for instance, Tradicao e RacaNegra, Banda Afro Agba, and Afoxe Odolu Panda. He participated in the sound track for the theater works Os Orixas by the Ballet Brincantes of Pernambuco and 0 Alto da Compadecida written by Ariano Suassuna. He was also a member of the percussion group Angaatanamii.

B.G. BRAZZIL -JANUARY 1999

48

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Movies RIO E Al, Comeu? (Tell Me, Did You Screw Her?)—Comedy. All the locker-room talk among men. By Marcelo Rubens Paiva.

Directed by Rafael Ponzi, with Felipe Camargo and Marcus Winter. Teatro Clara Nunes.

Somos Irmiis (We Are Sisters)—Musical.

The story of sisters and singers Linda and Dircinha Batista. Written by Sandra Louzada. Directed by Ney Matogrosso and Cininha de Paula, with Suely Franco and Nicette Bruno. Teatro Joao Caetano.

Bonifeicio Bilhoes (Billions Bonifacio)— Comedy. Two people dispute a $4 billion prize. Written and directed by Joao Bethencourt, with Bemvindo Sequeira, and Jandir Ferrari. Teatro Sesi.

Uma Noite na Lua (A Night on the Moon)— Comedy. Monologue. A playwright has to write a play overnight, but he only can think about his wife who has just left him.

Written and directed by Joao Falcao, with Marco Nanini. Teatro dos Quatro.

A Dona da Historia (History's Mistress)— Comedy. A woman's life and all her choices.

Written and directed by Joao Falcao, with Marieta Severo and Andrea Beltrao. Teatro do Leblon.

SAO PAULO Caixa 2 (Hidden Cash)--Comedy. By mistake, a bank clerk transfers $10 million to the wrong account. Directed by Juca de Oliveira, directed by Fauzi Arap, with Juca de Oliveira, Fulvio Stefanini, Suzy Rego, and Andre Garolli. Teatro Jardel Filho.

0 Nome do Sujeito (The Guy's Name)— Drama. The soul commerce in mid 19th century in Recife, state of Pernambuco.

Directed by Sergio de Carvalho and Marcio Marciano with Companhia do Latao. Teatro de Arena Eugenio Kusnet.

Porca Miseria (Dammit!)—Comedy. An Italian family plans a sting so they can go back to Italy. Written by Jandira Martini and Marcos Caruso. Directed by Gianni Ratto, with Francarlos Reis, Jandira Martini and Renato Consorte. Teatro Cultura Artistica.

Trair e Co car, E So Comecar (Betraying and Scratching, You Just Have to Start)— Comedy. The crazy adventures of Olimpia, a blundering maid. Written by Marcos Caruso, directed by Attilio Ricca, with Clarisse Derzie, Roberto Pirillo and Denis Derkian. Teatro Imprensa.

0 Analista de Bage (Bage's Psychoanalyst)—Comedy. Group therapy with a nononsense and non-orthodox psychoanalyst.

By Luis Fernando Verissimo. Adapted and directed by Claudio Cunha. With Claudio Cunha, Melissa Mell and Claudio Filho.

Maksoud Plaza.

BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

Just-released American movies: Babe, Pig in the City (Babe, o Porquinh Atrapalhadona Cidade), Billy's Hollywoo Screen Kiss (0 Beijo Hollywoodiano d Billy), The Borrowers (Os Pequeninos), Ever After (Para Sempre Cinderela), Lul on the Bridge (0 Misterio de Lulu), Might Joe Young (Poderoso Joe), Next Stop, Wonderland (Proxima Parada, Wonderland), Practical ,Magic (Da Magia a Seduccio), Psycho (Psicose), Rounders (Cartas na Mesa), Stepmom (Lado a Lado) A Hora Meigica (The Magic Hour)—Brazi1/1 998—Comedy. In the 50s radio star gets involved by a woman in a web of intrigue. By Guilherme de Almeida Prado, with Raul Gazolla, Julia Lemmertz, Maite Proenca, and Jose Lewgoy.

Uma Aventura do Zico (An adventure of Zico)—Brazi1/1 998—Adventure. Soccer hero Zico is cloned to satisfy the whims of a rich boy. By Antonio Carlos da Fontoura, with Zico playing himself.

Zoando no TV (Getting Crazy on TV)-Brazil/1998—Adventure. TV star Angelica gets inside the television screen to save her boyfriend from the hands of the meanies.

Directed by Jose Alvarenga Jr., with Angelica.

Entre Tinieblas (Maus Hcibitos)—Spain/ 1984—Comedy. Cabaret singer goes to a very odd convent. By Pedro AlmodOvar, with Cristina Sanches Pascual.

Came Tr'emula (Came Tremula)—Spain/ 1997—Drama. A youngster and his obsessive passion. By Pedro Almod6var, with Liberto Rabal.

Hana-bi (Hana-bi: Fogos de Artificio)— Japan/1997 Drama. By Takeshi Kitano, with Takeshi Kitano and Kaiko Kishimoto.

Detective has a hard time dealing with his own rage after a friend is shot on duty.

Le Feu Follet (Trinta Anos Esta Noite)— France/1963 —Drama. An alcoholic man in the hours before his suicide. By Louis Malle, with Maurice Ronet.

Festen (Festa de Familia)—Denmark!

1998—Drama. A family gets together to celebrate the 60th birthday of the patriarch.

By Thomas Vinterberg, with Henning Moritzen.

Tirez sur le Pianiste(Atirem no Pianista)— Franca/1960—Drama. A pianist gets involved in a murder. By Francois Truffaut, with Charles Aznavour.

Books

best-sellers FICTION 1 0 Homem que Matou Getalio Vargas, Jo Soares. Companhia das Letras, R$ 25 2 Conte-me Seus Sonhos, Sidney Sheldon.

Record, R$ 25 3 0 Advogado, John Grisham. Rocco, R$ 25 4 0 Clube dos Anjos, Gula, Luis Fernando Verissimo. Objetiva, R$ 16.80 5 Veronika Decide Morrer, Paulo Coelho.

Objetiva, R$ 15 6 Mal Secreto, Inveja, Zuenir Ventura.

Objetiva, R$ 22 7 A Confraria dos Espadas, Rubem Fonseca. Companhia das Letras, R$ 16.50 8 Xadrez, Truco e Outras Guerras, Ira, Jose Roberto Torero. Objetiva, R$ 19 9 Corn Todo Amor, Rosamunde Pilcher.

Bertrand, R$ 20 10 0 Advogado de Deus, Zibia Gasparetto.

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NONFICTION 1 As Melhores Piadas do Planeta e da Casseta Tambem, vol.2, Casseta e Planeta.

Objetiva, R$ 10 2 203 Maneiras de Enlouquecer um Homem na Coma, Olivia Saint Claire.

Ediouro, R$ 10.90 3 Nciufragos, Traficantes e Degredados, Eduardo Bueno. Objetiva, R$ 17.50 4 A Viagem do Descobrimento, Eduardo Bueno. Objetiva, R$ 16 5 177 Maneiras de Enlouquecer uma Mulher na Coma, Margot Saint Loup.

Ediouro, R$ 10.90 6 Historia Indiscreta da Ditadura e da Abertura, Ronaldo Costa Couto. Record, R$28 7 Nilo Faca Tempestade em Copo d'Agua, Richard Carlson, R$ 19.50 8 Mais Coisas que Toda Garota Deve Saber, Antonio Carlos Vilela. Melhoramentos, R$8.60 9 Tantos Anos, Rachel de Queiroz.

Siciliano, R$ 25 10 As Barbas do Imperador: D. Pedro II, um Monarca nos Tropicos, Lilia Schwarcz.

Companhia das Letras, R$ 32

ECONOMY 1 0 Capitalismo Global, Celso Furtado.

Paz e Terra, R$ 9.50 2 A Crise do Capitalismo, George Soros.

Campus, R$ 23.20 3 A Armadilha da Globalizaciio, HansPeter Martin e Harald Schumann. Globo, R$ 30 4 Ah, Se Eu Soubesse..., Richard Edler.

Negocio, R$ 28.70 5 Economia Internacional—Teoria e Politica, Peter Kenen. Campus, R$ 69.90 According to Jornal do Brasil, http:// www.jb.com.br 49

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Likes home-life, outs oors, travel, music, exercising a d the ocean.

Seeks lady, 19-27, ith similar qualities for corres ondence for friendship leading to possible long term relation hip. Please send letter in Englis (photo appreciated) and I wi 1 reply with same. Stephen Pel icano, 182 Trouville Road, C iague NY, 11726, USA [157] Americano, 38, a mantic° e sincer raente, ro. Procura brasileira 18-45. En iar foto para 2440-16th St, No. 1 , San Francisco, CA 94103 [1 8] Americano, 43 an s, delgado, branco, olhos verde , professor de Frances e Ingles, fala Portugues, gostaria de encontrar brasileira entre 1 -30 anos.

Chame (310) 712-1 27 [154] Seeking ladies 18-4 years old to correspond with American men for friendship a d companionship. FREE for all ladies.

Write: TigerLilies, 709 Lookout Dr., Suite 5206, arland TX 75044 USA [160] Single nice looking American businessman, 1.8, 70 kg, looking for serious comp imise with a beautiful Brazilia girl with family connections o hotel or auto business for p nership.

Will be in Brazil Jan ary 1999.

Fax (805) 547-949 E-mail: clandis466@aol.com [155] Tall, blonde, blue-e ed, L. A. business owner, se ks petite, dark-skinned Brasilei a to be my woman. (800) 605-5 69 [154] PERSONAL MAN SEEKS MAN

Very handsome, pr fessional, 40's WM seeks sine re, VGL/ black/Brasil man. Tru y love the music from Caetano o Nana to

Gil and more! Maybe we can make music! I'm real thing! (323) 227-8935 [158] PERSONAL FRIENDSHIP/MARRIAGE

Friendship/Marriage/Correspondence. Men, ladies, worldwide. Large information packet $2 (no inmates). Ladies in Brazil, about 80 names, addresses (no pictures) $12. Agarwal, Box 10020, Glendale, CA 91209 [149] PSYCHOTHERAPY

Emotional & psychological help- Elizabete Almeida MFCC licensed psychotherapist. English/Portuguese. Reasonable rates. (310) 281-7536. [158]] RENTAL

Rio de Janeiro - Apartment for Rent - Great Area! - Beat Hotel Prices! (510) 236-3684 [164] TRANSLATION & INTERP.

Dialog° Translates from and to Brazilian Portuguese: http:// www.brazilstudy.com [155] TRAVEL

Globotur Travel Services Passagens adreas para o Brasil.

Consulte nosso preps: 1-800998-5521. De Houston: (281) 304-9479 http:// www.globotur.com [157] Receba seu cartio de s6cio do Club Brasileiro enviando $2.00 por ano corn seu nome e endereco para A ITT SERVICES - (909) 627-2171 - 12400 Cypress, 88, Chino, CA 91710 e tenha 10% de desconto na passagem para o Brasil. [164] Touristic services in Salvador da Bahia: Dialog°, http:// www.brazilstudy.com [155]

BRAZZIL -JANUARY 1999 51

(310) 370-0929 Centro Cultural Gaicho (213) 256-6548 Books El Jardin (818) 566-1111 Livraria Plenitude MILA - Samba School (800) 532-5809 (310) 202-8091 Consulate Mov. Social Humanista Consulado do Brasil (310) 281-6652 (617) 617-542-4000 SambaLi -Esc. de Samba Dentist (562) 437-1939 SyIv to P. Lessa Consulate (617) 924-1882 Brazilian Consulate Food & Products (213) 651-2664 Brasil Brasil Dentist (617) 561-6094 Gilberto Henriques Jerry's Cachaca (213) 464-0524 (617) 666-5410 Events Promotion Instruction Brazilian Nites Prod.

Approach Student Ctr (818) 566-1111 (617) 787-5401 Samba & Saudade Braz. & Amer. Lg. Inst.

(323) 634-7811 (617) 787-7716 Sayegh Promotions Publications (562) 863-3463 Food & Products The Brazilian Monthly (617) 566-3651 Cachaca Pitu Bossa: Braz. Jazz Guide (714) 731-7788 (617) 262-9997 Health & Fitness Restaurants Hands of Care Mas.Ther.

Café Brazil (213) 937-3835 (617) 789-5980 Instruction Ipanema Brasil Brasil Cult. Ctr (508) 460-6144 (310) 397-3667 Tropicilia Modern Lang. Center (617) 567-4422 (310) 839-8427 Pampas Churrascaria Internet & Art Design (617) 661-6613 ArtMedia (310) 826-1443 Legal Services Consulate Meiojas & Ferraz Consulado G. do Brasil (310) 360-0901 (312) 464-0244 Loans Translations Finance Plus Mort. Corp.

Portuguese Lang. Ctr. (310) 585-8911 (312) 276-6683 Matchmaker Fogo e Paixio (310) 450-4586 Restaurants Music Fogo de ChAo Jazz - Richard Samuels (972) 503-7300 (818) 798-5424 Travel Agency Physician Brazil Brasileiro Nilson A. Santos (972) 594-8894 (213) 483-3430 Psychother/Counsel.

Elizabeth Almeida, M.A. Airlines (310) 281-7536 yang Dr. Jefferson SA (800) GO VARIG (213) 207-2770 Vasp Tanis Haberkorn, M.A. (310) 364-0160 (310) 840-5380 Arts & Crafts Publications Bakari Art Studio Brazzil (213) 731-3700 (213) 255-8062 Folk Creations Real Estate (310) 693-2844 Cent. 21 - Vlad. Bellemo Culture Planet (714) 406-0121 (310) 441-9808 Cent. 21 - Solon Pereira Zebi Designs (562) 924-9633 (310) 391-6530 Cent. 21 Tinia Sayegh Auto Repair (562) 865-2992 Cosmo Auto Parts Restaurants & Cafes (213) 259-9818 Bossa Nova Banks (310) 657-5070 Banco do Brasil Brazilian Tropical (213) 688-2996 (714) 720-1522 Catering

By Brazil (310) 787-7520 Joy's Catering Café Brasil (562) 438-3415 (310) 837-8957 Clothes Ginga Brasil Samba Collection (714) 778-0266 (562) 437-1939 Itana Bahia Summer Brazil (310) 657-6306 (310) 455-1772 Rio Braz. Churrascaria Clubs & Associations (714) 739-2000 Zabumba Brazil-Cal. Chbr of Corn.

(310) 841-6525 (310) 665-0166 Brazilian Sociocult. C. ADS (323) 255-8062

Boston

Chicago

Dallas

Los Angeles

52

Translation/Interp.

Brazilian Int. Affairs (310) 854-5881 Travel/Tours Around the World TH. (800) 471-6333 ATW Tour Operator (800) 529-2990 Brazil Air (800) 441-8515 Brazil Tours (818) 767-1200 Cheviot Hills Travel (310) 202-6264 Traveland (800) 321-6336 TV Brazil TV & Production (562) 437-6404

Miami S. Florida Airlines — Transbrasd (800) 872-3153 Varig (800) 468-2744 Vasp (800) 732-8277 Banss Banco do Brasil (305) 358-3586 Banco Nacional (305) 372-0100 Banco Real (305) 358-2433 Banespa (305) 358-9167 Clubs & Associations ABFC -As. Bras. da Flan (407) 354-5200 Cam. Corn. Brasil- WA (305) 579-9030 ARARA Amazon. As. (813) 842-3161 Consulate Consulado do Brasil (305) 285-6200 Dentists Hedimo de Se (305) 262-8212 Food & Beverages All Braz. Imp. & Exp. (305) 523-8134 Brazil by Mail (954) 472-7163 Guarani Esteves (305) 345-1540 Vanya's Sweets (954) 785-0087 Via Brasil (305) 866-7718 Physicians Dr. Jorge Macedo (305) 271-7311 Dr. Mario Sanches (305) 541-7819 Dr. Neri Franzon (305) 776-1412 Publications The Brazilian Sun (305) 868-3214 Florida Review (305) 374-5235 Real Estate Simone Bethencourt (954) 704-1211 Restaurants Boteco (954) 566-3190 Brazilian Tropicana (954) 781-1113 Porta() (305) 373-2777 Steak Masters (305) 567-1718 Travel Agencies

Brazilian Wave (305) 561-3788 Discover Brazil Tours (800) 524-3666 Euroamerica (305) 358-3003 International Tours (800) 822-1318 Luma Travel (305) 374-8635 Monark Travel (305) 374-5855 New Port Tours (305) 372-5007

Br Online Travel (888) 527-2745 Via Brasil Travel 305) 866-7580

New York N. Jersey Books Luso-Brazilian Books (800) 727-LIJSO Clubs & Associations Brazilian Ch. of Com. (212) 575-9030 Brazilian Corn. Bureau (212) 916-3200 Brazilian Trade Bur. (212) 224-6280 C unsulate Brazilian Gen. Cons.

(212) 757-3080 Consulting BBJ (Br. Bus. Junction) (212) 768-1545 Food & Products Amazonia (718) 204-1521 Coisa Nossa (201) 578-2675 Merchant Express (201) 589-5884 Publications The Brasilians (212) 382-1630 Brazilian Voice (201) 955-1137 OCA Magazine (516) 596-1853 Portugal-Brasil News (212) 228-2958 Samba Newsletter (718) 937-0574 Restaurants

Brasilia (212) 869-9200 Brazil 2000 (212) 877-7730 Brazilian Pavillion (212) 758-8129 Cabana Carioca (212) 581-8088 Indigo Blues (212) 221-0033 S.O.B. (212) 243-4940 Tapaj6s River (201) 491-9196 Travel Agencies Barb Tour Service (201) 313-0996 Odyssea Travel Service (212) 826-3019

San Diego Auto Car Mania Auto Repair (619) 223-7748 Clubs & Associations Clube Bras. San Diego (619) 295-0842 Sunday Night Cl. Brazil (619) 233-5979 Import/Export

Brazil Imports (619) 234-3401

Money Remittance Vigo-California (619) 479-VIGO

an Francisco

(415) 595-2274 Fogo na Roupa (510) 464-5999 Ricardo Peixoto (415) 752-9782 Voz do Brazil (415) 586-2276

Airlines

Musical Instruments

yang (415) 986-5737 Vasp (800) 732-VASP Attorney

Tambonm & Samba (415) 871-2201 Physician Dr. Guilherme Salgado (415) 832-6219

Laura Basaloco-Lapo (435) 288-6727 lkienoel Fa ria (5.10) 537-3533 Rilph Baker (510) 444-8100 Auto

M. C. Printing (510) 268-8967 Publications

Nelson Auto Body (415) 255-6717 Matts Auto Body (415) 565-3560 Beauty Salon Bibbo (415) 421-BIBO Carmen's International (415) 433-9441 Neyde's (415) 681-5355 Clubs & Associations B.A.S.O. (415) 661-2788 Bay Area Brazilian Club

(415) 334-0106 Brazilian Cult. Movern.

(510) 215-2658 Computer Micronet (415) 665-1994 Consulate Brazilian Consulate (415) 981-8170 Dance Instruction

Aguarela 10) 548-1310 irds of Paradise 15) 863-3651

run Culture & Arts 10) 215-8202 inga Brasil 1 (510) 428-0698 Escola Nova de Samba (415) 661-4798 Samba do Coracle (415) 826-2588 Samba, Swing & Suor (415) 282-7378 Dental Care Roberto Sales, DDS (510) 451-8315 Events Promotion F. B. C. Events (415) 334-0106 Nativa Productions (408) 287-9798 Food Brazil Express (415) 749-0524 -UGC Imp. Wholesale (408) 947-8511 Instruction ortuguese - A. Frame (510) 339-9289 Portuguese Lang. Serv.

(415) 587-4990 Money Remittance Brazil Express-Vigo (415) 749-0524 West Brazil (415) 695-9258 Music Cilia Malheiros (415) 738-2434 :Damien's Intercimbio

Printing

Brazil Today (510) 526-1115 Brazzil (415) 587-4990 Restaur./Night Clubs Bahia Cabana (415) 861-4202 Balboa Braz. Rest.

(415) 387-1118 Café Mardi Gras (415) 864-6788 Canto do Brasil (415) 626-8727 Janete & Pedro Br. Food (415) 821-4600 Little Rio (415) 441-3344 Nino's (510) 845-9303 Porto Brasil (510) 526-1500 Terra Brazilis (415) 863-5177 Translation Port. Lang. Services (415) 587-4990 Travel Agencies Brazil Express (415) 749-0524 Rio Roma (415) 921-3353 Santini Tours (510) 843-2363 Travel Americas (415) 334-0404 Tropical Travel (510) 655-9904 Tucanos Travel (415) 454-9961

ashington DC Airlines Transbrasil (202) 775-9180 Yang (202) 331-8913, Vasp (202) 822-8277 Banks Banco do Brasil (202) 857-0320 Banco do Est. de S. Paulo (202) 682-1151 Clubs & Associations Braz. Am. Cult. Inst.

(202) 362-8334 Inst. of Brazil. Business (202) 994-5205 Embassy Embanada do Brasil (202) 238-2700 Restaurants Amazonia Grill (202) 537-0421 Travel Agencies Intern. Discount Travel (703) 750-0101 BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

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out Latin America to de-Africanize the nineteenth century when the famed holy slaves through the banning of the drum, war of the Moslem Negroes broke out in ' prohibitions against the speaking of Afri- Bahia. From the beginning, the owners :•an languages, and the practice of African complained of the frequent escapes of rituals. However, in Brazil, Cuba, and slaves, demanding protection and secuPuerto Rico, the retention of African-based rity from the public authorities. Later, religions (non-Islamic) and rituals was ex- the situations was met by employment of traordinary. The Afro-Brazilian religions bush captains and notices in the press such as Candomble and Santeria are prac- publicizing the loss of slaves and urging ticed throughout Latin America by Blacks collective action for their recapture... and Whites. The Afro-Brazilian derived Yusef A. Nzibo celebration, Carnaval, became a national In mainstream Brazilian society, the symbol of Brazilian culture.

Slaves were not passive, nor were they elites were Whites whose dominant cul,mtirely defeated. They struggled to im- tural and institutional references were Euprove their circumstances individually and ropean. The leading families of the elite— collectively. -Many slaves resisted their some descendants of Portuguese nobility— European oppressors through suicide, es- monopolized power in all forms and were cape, sabotage, and the defiance ofthe laws the least affected by African cultural influof social conduct and religion. Others ences. The large strata beneath the elite ,;ought to preserve their own culture while included the majority of Blacks, Native accommodating themselves to the new so- Americans, and the various groups of racial and cultural order." (Darien Davis, cially mixed populations. In some instances, ,Clavery and Beyond, Jaguar Books, 1995) those racially mixed persons who assimiIwo major Afro-Brazilian organizations lated European culture and behavior were developed during the colonial era and dur- allowed to pass as White. The complex ing slavery—the series of Brotherhood or- racial social structure impacted the level of ganizations (Irmandades) that provided a participation of the various groups in anticushion for Blacks and mulattos, slave and colonial and insurrectionist movements free, from racial oppression, and the net- during the colonial period.

Black Brazilian slaves, white peasants, work of runaway slave communities (quilombos). In part because of the and workers rebelled against plantation quilombos, Afro-Brazilians were able to owners, mining, and trading elites. The preserve their original languages, cultures immense power of these elites, however, allowed them to successfully subdue reand traditions.

The function of the Irmandades was to volts. Slaves who rebelled were sold to provide freed slaves—mostly older and other plantations, and white peasants who sick slaves who were emancipated when rebelled were usually shipped off to other they were no longer useful to their mas- colonies. The most serious anticolonial revolt occurred in 1788 in the mining area of ters—with some means of survival: Minas Gerais, a region known for the large Without trade or skill, healthy young population of freed Blacks, slaves and raslaves also discovered that freedom was cially mixed groups. The revolt was supof little value. For many Blacks, the only ported by miners and tradesmen who bealternatives were vagabondage or reab- gan to also demand the abolition of slavery. sorption into the slave systems as the The colonial elite were able to squelch the revolt, however,. their fear of more revolts worst exploited day workers. Irmandades, therefore, sprang up as a response of a increased, especially as anticolonialist sencommon desire on the part of timents increased in the cities.

In the province of Bahia, slave insurAfro-Brazilians to form an officially recognized corporate entity to help each rections occurred among urban slaves who other and those still in bondage... Their were mostly Muslim. The rebellions were meager funds came from our chief combined with the desire to return to Afsources: subscriptions, pledges, rents, rica. Eventually, a number of ex-slaves and alms and bequests... These Irmandades free Blacks in the city of Salvador returned looked after the welfare of their mem- to Africa in the eighteenth and nineteenth bers, gave them medical and legal help, centuries. The slave rebellions and insurand helped those still in bondage to buy rections from 1807 to 1835 were very often organized by Yoruba and Fulani urban their freedom.

(Yusef A. Nzibo, Afro-Brazilian Resis- Muslim slaves and were led by religious tance Against Slave Oppression," leaders. The rebellion of 1807 forced the Afrodiaspora Volume 2, no. 4, 1984, p. colonial government to pass legislation in the city of Salvador prohibiting Slaves from 7-3) walking in the city streets after nine in the The quilombos, on the other hand, were evening without the permission of their settlements established by runaway slaves masters, because the city became an imporin various parts of Brazil. The common tant communications center and a place for view is that 'Brazilian slavery was less bru- the organization for those planning rebeltal than North American slavery. However, lions. Insurrections occurred in Salvador in because of the harsh treatment that slaves 1808 and 1826 and in Bahia in 1814 and received—the average life expectancy of 1816. Eventually the colonial authorities an .African slave was seven years after completely outlawed slave religious conarriving in Brazil-many escaped to form gregations and religious services. Rebelindependent communities called quilom- lions continued well into the nineteenth bos. The most famous and the largest of century. these was Palmares in northeast B•razil, The Imperial Era which the Portuguese destroyed at the end of the seventeenth century.

In 1822, Brazil achieved independence From the beginning of slavery, escapes from Portugal and established a constituwere frequent... these movements were tional monarchical system of government. most marked during the seventeenth cen- Emperor Pedro I was crowned in1822 and tury when Palmares Republic was formed the constitution was ratified in 1824. The and to a more or less equal extent in the constitutional role of the monarchy was

designed to be the source of moderation in government to control conflicts among the legislative, judicial, and executive branches ofgovernment. power was centralized and controlled by elites. Liberal and Conservative political parties were formally established, but they were controlled by the plantation and mine owners and other elites.

Independence was accompanied by a boom in the sugar and coffee trade. The Haitian revolution (1804) created a vacuum in the sugar market that Brazilian growers quickly filled. The demand for slaves in Brazil increased and it brought in unprecedented numbers of Africans. In 18272 13razil signed a treaty with Britain pledging to outlaw the slave trade and later in 1830 passed antislave-trade legislation. The law was not enforced until much later in the century. The system of slavery continued long after formal declarations to end the trade were made.

In January 1835, the largest urban slave revolt broke out in Salvador, and in the same year, slaves joined an Indian revolt in the city of Belem. Upheavals continued throughout the 1830s in Rio Grande do Sul, Bahia, and Maranhao. The elites in each of the regions reacted by demanding public or governmental protection. In many ways, the slave revolts helped the emperor pursue his goals of national unification and state consolidation. With the support of the planter and merchant elites, Emperor Pedro II was able to strengthen and centralize governmental power and authority. The authority of the state was eventually threatened by Brazilian involvement in intraregional military conflicts.

The 1865-1870 War of the Triple Alliance in which Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay joined forces against Paraguay cost Brazil 50,000 lives and $300 million. The war was funded by the British and left Brazilian government in debt and facing a series of new contenders for political power, the most formidable of which was a newly empowered and victorious military establishment. The emperor faced challenges from the Church, from the army and landowners, and from a growing anti-monarchical, pro-republicanism movement.

The war also heightened awareness of the need to address the future of slavery. Slave revolts during the war forced the government to promise to implement measures to bring slavery to an end.

Thousands of slaves were sent to fight in the war. In 1866, the emperor offered freedom to all slaves who enlisted in the armed forces, and some landowners sold slaves to the government to protect their sons from conscription. At the end of the war, many of the same slave owners went to court to force the return of any escaped slaves, despite the promise of freedom given to slaves in exchange for their military service. The prolongation of the war and the demand for the slave manpower encouraged opposition to the government and the emperor from an emerging abolitionist movement over the issue of slavery. Abolitionists challenged government's lack of a strong antislavery stance. In response, the emperor in 1867 announced plans for gradual postwar emancipation of slaves.

Groups of abolitionists issued three manifestos before government between 1869 and 1870 that demanded immediate emancipation, greater provincial authority, direct elections, and religious freedom. The abolitionist and republ ic an—antim onarchical—movements -became allied during the era.

BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999

Brazilian slaves who were conscripted France, and Italy. ernment. The doctrine of White racial suin the army came into contact with and The combination of the forces of the periority affected the course of events that were exposed to the ideas of emancipated abolitionist movement, numerous slave re- occurred during the First Republic to enand free Black soldiers from Argentina and volts, threats of increased violence, and the sure the political, economic, and military Uruguay, who more than likely spoke to pro-republican movement led to the final dominance of the White elite over Brazil's them about freedom. In the aftermath of the collapse of the slave system. The govern- "darker masses" and former slaves. Former war, slaves experienced hardships caused ment and slave-holders were unable to with- slaves were now free to negotiate labor by the decaying economic conditions re- stand the pressure for change. Hence, in contracts and to work for wages; landownsuiting from the war. Slave revolts oc1888 the Princess Regent Isabel issued the ers and employers in many regions devised curred in the provinces of sao Paulo, Minas emancipation decree, the Lei Aurea, or plans to limit the ability of Afro-Brazilian Geraisâ&#x20AC;&#x17E; and Espirito Santo, and the region Golden Law. The government did not, how- laborers to organize. of Reconcavo. These revolts became a de- ever, establish institutions for the incorpoBelieving that white Europeans were cisive factor in the final collapse of the ration of former slaves into the larger Bra- superior to nonwhites, Brazil's elite sought system of slavery. zilian society. Afro-Brazilians were eman- to "Whiten" the nation. (Interestingly, t During the war, urban antislavery soci- cipated in a political environment in which desire to eradicate or minimize the African eties were organized by groups of intellec- access to any form of political participation influence in Brazil, was reminiscent of the tuals, businesspeople, professionals, and was nearly impossible, not only for them, desire in Spain and Portugal, during the government officials who were not only but for virtually all Brazilians.

Inquisition, to eliminate non-Catholic and opposed to slavery, but to the constituAfro-Brazilians, like theirNorth Ameri- non-Christian influences.) In the nineteenth tional monarchy. Afro-Brazilian participa- can counterparts, emerged from slavery century, liberal elites were opposed to slation in the abolitionist movement was es- encumbered by newer forms of enslave- very, not for ethical, moral, or human rights sential to its success, because White aboli- ment or organized, legal, or institutional- reasons, but because they believed that the tionists opted for a more gradual approach ized efforts to reenslave them. Landowners institution stifled Brazilian economic deto emancipation. Afro-Brazilian abolition- and the industrial elite began to enact poli- velopment and the country's role in the ists opted for more radical solutions. White cies that kept Blacks in low-wage posi- Diaspora of European nations. abolitionists were willing to, for example, tions, while subsidizing the immigration of accept the passage of the 1871Law of Free immigrants from Europe. Emancipation Birth supported- by the emperor and his was merely a beginning, not an end, to the Thus, liberals such as Joaquim Nabuco associates. From the perspective of its elite Afro-Brazilian struggle for freedom and advocated an end to slavery in Brazil, because, among other factors, it repelled White supporters, the law was a way to equality. potential European immigration. Moreprotect the property rights of slaveholders over, without slavery, Nabuco believed while giving some hope to the abolitionThe First Republic that his country could have been another ists. The bill provided freedom to the chilCanada or Australia... [these] arguments dren of slaves at the age of eight or The military seized power in 1889, twenty-one depending upon the discretion exiled the monarchy, disbanded the Lib- are reflected in the writings of a wide of the slaveholder; created of an emancipa- eral and Conservative parties, and began range of Latin American commentators, tion fund to free slaves and compensate proceedings to draft a new constitution. who ignored the contribution of the native Americans and the African to the owners; allowed slaves to save money to The motto o f the new authoritarian govern- building of their societies. Their desire to buy their freedom, and established records ment was "Order and Progress." The new of slave rolls in the 'provinces. The first regime was influenced by the ideals of free modernize and attract investment reinthe rejudice toward the nonwhite group of slaves would not be eligible for trade and industrial economic growth that forced sectors of the region. freedom until 1879, thus the law had lim- were prevalent throughout Europe, at that (Darien Davis, Slavery and Beyond) ited impact. time. The constitution of 1891 incorpoThe most significant period of rated the ideals of a republican form of The policy of whitening actually beAfro-Brazilian involvement in the aboli- government, however, in practice it contin- came official doctrine before the end of tionist movement occurred during the ued the Brazilian authoritarian tradition. It slavery. Employers and government offi1880s. They were able to establish newspa- opened the way for the political domina- cials sponsored the immigration of Europers, write antislavery material, organize non by economic Rowers and regional oli- pean labor. Government paid for the imantislavery meetings, and travel through- garchies. The presidency was rotated be- portation of millions of Europeans. Plantout the nation to spread the word. One tween the natives of Sao Paulo and Minas ers in Sao Paulo founded the Society for the influential Afro-Brazilian owned newspa- Gerais, thus giving power to the coffee Promotion of Immigration in 1886 to reper was the Cidade do Rio, published in barons of Sao Paulo and the cruit White immigrants from Rio de Janeiro. In 1880, the publisher of the ranchers and mine owners of, Europe pay their passage and newspaper, Jose do Patrocinio, united Minas Gerais. The slave-deprovide' them with plantation groups in the province and urban areas into pendent sugar, cotton, tobacco t work. In 1897, the minister of an Abolitionist Confederation. The organi- and coffee plantations (fazenfinance, Rui Barbosa, issued an zation took the abolitionist debate to the deiros) had lost power. order to destroy all historical people. Through his efforts another newsThe republic was essendocuments and files that related paper, The Emancipationist, was founded flail)/ dominated by state level to the slave trade and slavery. by an abolitionist society in Joao Pessoa regional parties that controlled The massacre of 1897 of the rural The Gazeta da Tarde, Gazeta de Noticias, a federal patronage system and f i religious settlement of Canudos and Radical Paulistano are other newspa- eventually increased the power in the northeast backlands was pers founded by Afro-Brazilians and abo- of the landholders (former abetted by the institutionalizalitionists that used the power of the press to slaveowners) and the new tion of white supremacist ambuild public support for the cause of eman- export-oriented oligarchy. Democratic electudes among the Brazilian elite. The milicipation. tions were controlled, and less than three vary slaughtered as many as 35,000 people Afro-Brazilian abolitionists were also percent of Brazilians were enfranchised, who were classified as mixed-race. concerned about the postemancipation of Local political bosses (coroneis) who were The huge influx of immigrants from prospects for their people. Luis Gama, au- generally the heads of rural landowning urope peaked in 1913, increased the numthor and activist, operated night schools to families and officers in the state militia er of Brazilian Whites. The policy of whitoffer Afro-Brazilians some education. He allied themselves with state governors who ning was so widely accepted that it was and others stressed the need for were, in turn, controlled by federal offiot publicly debated or discussed, and was Afro-Brazilian education, to prepare them cials. The jaguncos (hired guns) of the eflected in all areas of public life. In 1921, to compete as freed persons in a "free local coroneis kept peasants and the lower tihe state of Mato Grosso provided developsociety". Many of the Afro-Brazilian abo- classes in a state of near-feudal bondage. ers with a land concession. It was revealed litionists were mulattos or freed !persons, Essentially, the states became relatively that the developers were associated with a middle or upper class, who were educated, autonomous from the national government. group in the United States that was recruitaccomplished scholars and writers. Many Brazilian elites began to put into action g U.S. Blacks for immigration to Brazil. received their educations abroad, and there- their basic attitudes toward race. White Catholic bishop and president of Mato fore, like many of their White counterparts, elites were influenced by the attitudes of The rosso canceled the concession. In the had been exposed to liberal ideals and ad- Count de Gobineau, author of the "Essay vocated the development of a civil and free on the Inequality of the Races" (1853). De national Chamber of Deputies, a bill was introduced to prohibit "human beings of society in Brazil. Many sought support Gobineau, in fact, spent thirteen months in e black race from entering . Brazil. A from the abolitionist societies in Britain, Brazil as representative of the French govmajor opponent of the bill, Joaquim OsOrio,

BRAZZIL - JANUARY 1999 57

argued that it was tantamount .to a "new zilian society. He became a major propoBlack code" and an official policy of race nent of the race-relations school of thought prejudice that contradicted the Brazilian promoted by intellectuals like Gilberto racial myth. The bill died in committee, but Freyre and others. Freyre and his colleagues a similar bill was introduced in 1923, and argued that Brazilians formed a "new race again it failed. The prevailing attitude in the tropics, a "new people" of mixed among the Brazilian elite was that the ab- origins. Brazilian nationalism of the 1920s sence of legal racial barriers would pro- attempted to put a positive spin the degree mote the disappearance of the Black popu- of racial miscegenation in the population. lation. Blacks, it was projected, would. dis- Gilberto Frey re s theory ofLusotropical ism appear as a racial element in Brazil in and Lusophonic exceptionalism maintained the idea that Portuguese culture and "racial seventy years.

During the years of the First Republic, tolerance" were responsible for the devela few Afro-Brazilian intellectuals made opment of a Brazilian racial paradise.

This official view of race relations in efforts to mobilize Black political protest and movements. In 1925, sao Paulo Blacks Brazil was common throughout Latin called for the organization of a Black politi- American nations, like Cuba, for example. cal pressure group. In 1927, the Palmares Jorge Dominguez calls the study of race Civic Center was founded. The organiza- relations in Cuba, "a classic 'non-topic." tion began to campaign to change legisla- Carlos Moore another Cuban scholar, contion prohibiting Blacks from entering the tends that intuba, the severe treatment of Sao Paulo militia. The campaign and their Afro-Cubans is as much the result of the efforts to develop as a political force failed. severe nature of Cuban authoritarianism as Other efforts to -begin the unionization of traditional white Cuban racism. The same Black labor and other forms of political may be said of Brazil. The view that race is dissent also failed. The political climate of a "nonissue" or one that can be addressed the 1920s was one of major social upheaval through the correction of class inequalities and political change. The period is marked in Brazil is shared by members of all of the by the unionization movement and revolts political ideological spectrum in Brazil. led by the junior military officers. The The tendency to aggregate the various facjunior officers' movement promoted the tors leading to inequality in Brazil became ideals of universal suffrage, labor union- a habit among the political, economic, culism, antiforeigner nationalism, and other tural, religious and social elite across the types of reforms. The military snuffed out ideological spectrum—from those defined as liberals, leftists and rightists to the Marxthe junior officers' movement and the social upheaval of the era. In doing so, any ists and the reactionaries. National conforhope of Black political mobilization was mity to the idea of a Brazilian "racial democracy," can be attributed to the long also stifled. history of authoritarian state-building, patron-clientelism, and the rigid social hiThe Revolution of 1930 erarchy. "In the empire of racial .democand the Estado Novo racy all are compulsorily Brazilian and (New State), 1930-1945 equal before the law. This myth has beA civilian-military coalition overthrew come one of the most deeply ingrained the First Republic. Elections were outlawed. elements of the Brazilian social consciousThe new governmental regime came into ness, since the entire educational system, being as a Jesuit of a successful coalition of mass communications media, system of industrialists, trade unionists, junior offic- justice and the other agents influencing ers and nationalists that took advantage of public opinion all work to sustain it." (Jorge the discontent of among sharecroppers, Dominguez, foreword in Carlos Moore, farmers and unemployed- workers seeing Castro, the Blacks and Africa, Center for federal relief from the Great Depression of Afro-American Studies, 1988) Despite the officially endorsed doc1929. The collapse of the coffee market trine of the racial democracy, Afro-Braweakened the power of the oligarchs.

The new government was headed by zilians continued their efforts to develop a Getulio Vargas. As the new president, he political presence and force in the early surrounded `iimself with liberal intellectu- years of the 1930s. The Frente Negra (Neals, reformers and members of the junior gro Front) was organized in September 1930 in Sao Paulo. officers'. movement of the 1920s. Vargas' leadership stimulated numerous social- reforms: social security, a minimum wage, "The principal aim was to build and legalization of trade unions and the right to strengthen ties and to influence the postrike, school construction, and a litical process. Civil rights for the Frente civil-service meritocracy. His political re- meant equal treatment under the law and forms improved the situation of most Bra- the right to work free of discrimination."

It should also be noted that the organizazilians. He was able to successfully eliminate political opposition from both the po- tion was the first national civil rights litical left—socialist, communist—and the organization, and the first to see, "...race political right—fascist—movements in the and gender rights as intimately related.

As a result, a women's department was 1930s. . Vargas' leadership received Afro-Bra- created within the movement... Women zilians support because of the perception of the FNB opposed sexual discriminathat the new era would loosen the control of tion, harassment, and exploitation.. ." the rural oligarchs and produce new oppor- (Darien Davis, Slavery and Beyond, Jagtunities for Afro-Brazilian political partici- uar Books, 1995) pation. But his leadership had a particular The organization's newspaper, A Voz and Ion-lasting effect on the political culture anc ideology of race in Brazil. The idea da Raga (The Voice of the Race) was of the Brazilian -racial democracy" be- launched in 1933, but it did not survive. came the official doctrine of the Vargas The Frente Negra won widespread support regime and its successors. Vargas hoped throughout Sao Paulo, Minas Gerais, and that Brazilian cultural nationalism would Espirito Santo provinces. In Bahia and Rio unify the diverse political and economic Grande de Sul, other similar groups were interests among the various factions in Bra- organized. The Frente Negra and similar

58

organizations devoted their efforts toward addressing the racial injustices occurring in Brazilian society, sponsoring literacy and vocational training, medical treatment, and legal counseling -for Afro-Brazilians.

The Frente Negra, however, was unable to establish itself as an effective political force or political party to run candidates for office. In 1933, Arlindo Veiga dos Santos, a major organizer of the Frente Negra in sao Paulo, ran for city council ane was defeated. Between 1931-1937 the voter registration drives of the organization could not register enough voters to elect candidates to of ice. In 1937, the Frente Negra and all political parties were banned, and electoral politics in the nation ended until 1946. The banning of the Frente Negra also meant a temporary end of the public discussions of race. Vargas' authoritarian rule culminated in a totalitarian constitution that created the Estado Novo (New State). He effectively ruled by decree. The New State curtailed states rights and favored regional oligarchies, banned strikes and lockouts and centralized Vargas' authoritarian system of government. To avert class conflicts, the New State promised something for both workers and employers, incorporating them into "sindicatos — state-regulated-influenced interest groups.

In this way, Vargas was able to establish a pattern of leadership that claimed to place national interest above regional or class based interests. Vargas was also able to increase the role of the state in economic development and created a domestic environment meant to attract foreign investors—an apparent climate of stability. One can assume that the suppression of the Afro-Brazilian political movement and public discussions of race and race-related issues were also viewed as necessary to stabilize the political environment to attract foreign investment capital.

While promoting the public myth of the "racial democracy," the Vargas regime projected the -white' image of Brazil to the world. The policy of whitening the population through increased European immigration continued during this era. In 1945, Vargas' Decree No. 7967 was issued establishing a criteria for immigration in which immigrants would be admitted only in conformity with the -necessity to preserve and develop, in the ethnic composition of the population, the more desirable characteristics of its European ancestry.- Vargas' decree remained in force well into the 1980s— until the constitution of 1988 was ratified.

Afro-Brazilians did not respond openly to oppose the decree. During the period of the Estado Novo, the Black movement leaned toward accommodation rather than confrontation. The aversion to militant protest was also in part due to the emergence of an Afro-Brazilian middle class and- professionals in Sao. Paulo and Rio de J aneiro, who were inclined to support strategies to "uplift the race, one at a time." "This understanding of community uplift was based upon the existing realities of social ascension in an increasingly competitive, market-oriented ethos that had already driven large segments of the black labor force to Brazil's economic periphery one generation earlier." (Michael Hanchard,

Orpheus and Power, Princeton University Press, 1994, p. 106-107)

Excerpted from Democracy and Race in Brazil, Britain and the United States, Walton L. Brown, The Edwin Mellen Press, 1997, 290 pp.

BRAZZIL -JANUARY 1999

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