Brazzil - Year 10 - Number 150 - June 1998

MUSIC: MUSICAL PAINTER EGBERTO GISMONTI

Year 10— No. 16

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Ethiopia it is not, but the Brazilian Northeast is dry and hungry. From the first week of April to mid-June there were around 60 episodes of looting against government food warehouses and private food markets as well as some 300 attacks to food trucks. And Brazilians from the rest of the country, used to having dinner watching primetime escapistnove/as (soap operas) are being offered a daily diet of the real life they know exist, but to which they barely pay attention.

These are images of people show-

ing a rodent, the only thing they could get to eat that day; of families waiting in line for a little basket of government food that will help them for a few days, before the new pangs of hunger; of mothers with small children on the road begging for anything the drivers will give them. Around 9 million people are being hardly affected by the lack of rain, which is expected to last until October.

Brazilians are once again asking why is there no end to the chronic misery brought by the drought. For centuries the Northeast has lived under the threat of the drought that materializes in a more or less deadly way every so often. In 1859, for example, the year of one of these killer droughts, emperor Dom Pedro II after appealing to the best minds in the court decided to import camels to the area to replace the dying donkeys. Band-Aid solutions like these have been the rule since

6

CONTENTS

37

10

Cover by Lazzuly Mello

Politics President Cardoso keeps makings foes

DEPARTMENTS

13 Cover Hunger and looting. The Northeast drought is back

Nation Why are Brazilians feeding less the poor

26

Short stories "Frutas Artificiais" + one by Adelaide Bouchardet Davis

Entertainment Scheila, Danielle, and all the new icons

22

then.

In a new twist to an old plot, the government this time saw itself in a collision course with the Catholic Church, which came in defense oflooting. Justice Minister, Renan Calheiros, condemned what he called "looting industry" and asked for looters to be jailed. The assaults have been adopted by the Landless Movement, a very active grassroots movement linked to agrarian reform. All in all, a full plate for politicians who use to promise and not deliver. National elections are coming in October.

R.M.

31

8

Drought A historic headache

http://www.brazzil.com

History American genocide in the Amazon

TV Xuxa: Brazil's most famous pregnant feuds with in-laws

18

braizil

Rapidinhas

Travel The Northeast starts here, in Bahia

41

Music Egberto Gismosti: talent without concession

20 Letters

48 The Cultural Pulse

45

Music Ivete Sangalo, Banda Eva's sultry voice

51 Classifieds

52 That's

54 Special It's so easy to fall in love in Rio

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Publisher and Editor: Rodney Mello / Entertainment Editor : Sam & Harriet Robbins Book Review: Bondo Wyszpolski / Music Editor: ruce Gilman BRAZZIL (ISSN 1091-868X) is published monthly by Brazzil - 2039 N. Ave. 52, Los Angeles, CA, 90042-1024. Periodicals Postage rate paid at Los Angeles, CA. Single copy sold for $2. One year subscription for 12 issues is $3 (three dollars) in the U.S., $15 in Canada and Mexico, and $18 (surface mail) in all other countries. No back issues sold. Allow 5 to 7 weeks to receive your first issue. You may quote from or reprint any of the contents with proper copyright credit. Editorial submissions are welcome. Include a SASE (self addressed and stamped envelope) if you want your material mailed back. Brazzil assumes no responsibility for any claims made by its advertisers

POST MASTER: Send address changes to BRAZZIL - P.O. Box 42536 - Los Angeles, CA - 90050-0536 BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

5

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NI II ILI/I II II /.1 • unajoim Bum Busters

Beauty and the Beasts

Sao Paulo seems to be in the forefront of an architecture aimed at keeping the homeless at a distance. Public and private buildings, parks and even churches have incorporated the most ingenious stratagems to scare beggars and their likes without calling too much attention to the devices used.

The subway company, the Sao Paulo Metro, for example, uses paving stones placed in very irregular position to discourage people from even walking around their stations, much less sitting or sleeping. In an example that has been mimicked by others, the Teatro Cultura Artistica has installed the "anti-beggar douche", a device disguised under the marquis ofa building that throws water jets at pre-established intervals.

In an interview with 0 Estado de Sao Paulo, Paulo Calux, manager of the theater in downtown Sao Paulo, boasts of being the inventor of the bum-buster sprinkler 12 years ago. He uses the device together with video cameras that monitor the presence of homeless or other undesired people.

4,"Our intention," Calux explained, is not to wet people, but the sidewalk so people will not lie down here." The sprinklers are activated every hour during the night and every two hours during the day.

Another common device used is a sharp metal rail placed on windows and around grassy surfaces to prevent people from feeling comfortable and sitting there. Some have also adopted the use of thorny bushes. It goes without say-

Like pop singer Madonna who handpicked personal trainer Carlos Leon to father Lourdes Maria, her daughter, Xuxa, Brazil's material girl, was also choosy when looking for a sperm donor who would make true her old dream of becoming a mother. Marriage was also out of question for the kids' TV presenter whose blonde, lascivious, gorgeous-looking image is known worldwide. The Brazilian superstar chose docile, pretty model Luciano Zsafir, 29, six years younger than her.

Unlike Madonna, who disappeared from the public eye to savor her pregnancy and motherhood, Maria da Graca Xuxa Meneghel has made a continuous circus-like spectacle of her pregnant state. The revelation that she was going to be a mother was made on Domingo do Faustao, a live Sunday entertainment show on TV Globo. Since the December disclosure, the pregnancy has become a public affair with the nation following Xuxa's goings to the gynecologist, the ultrasound, and the choice of the name Sasha when the sex of the child was determined.

Not only every Sasha heartbeat is being heard and followed by 160 million parents, grandparents, and siblings, the whole country has also been sharing with the mother her beliefs, values, and philosophy. Last thing to hit the TV fan was a public sparring between Xuxa and her in-laws. The precarious romance between Xuxa and the father of the child seems in shakier ground than ever since the Queen of the Shorties on May 10 declared to daily Folha de Sao de Paulo: "Nobody is pretty in his family.

Only Luciano. I have nothing against them or in favor, but if my daughter has to look with someone there, I hope it will be with Luciano."

That was enough to transform the cold war between Xuxa and the Zsafirs into a full-blown battle. Gabriel and Beth Zsafir, Luciano's parents, released a note to the press criticizing Xuxa and Marlene Mattos, her all-powerful manager, hinting of a lesbian relationship between both.

"This is clearly a cheap provocation from two very close lady friends (Vox populi, vox Dei), with the intention to make people believe that Luciano is the villain in the farce by forcing him to abandon the show before it ends."

Luciano's twin sister, Priscila Bochner, was incensed: "I hope my niece will not be contaminated by Xuxa's foolishness." Big sister Alexandra Lebelson Szafir de Nicola initially didn't accept the provocations: "I don't believe Xuxa said that and Jam waiting for an official recantation." Since there was no forthcoming retraction, Alexandra, joined the fray:

fauna DE si pAuu Seca consome R$ 9,6 hi em 10 t

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BRAZZIL - JUNE 1996

Airfare Warfare I

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"Xuxa does not even know me. How can she call me ugly? From the pictures I see on magazines my family beats hers ten to one."

The always conciliatory Luciano, who lives by himself in a house that is a 20minute ride far from Xuxa, this time sided with his own family. He reminded everyone that his mother was a coveted beauty and cover girl in her youth and classified Xuxa's comments as unfortunate. In a so-called official note sent by fax to newsrooms he delivered a stinging message to his girlfriend: "As is common knowledge, beauty is an ephemeral quality, and, with the passing of the years, particularly cruel with women."

Mother Beth, who thinks the TV presenter is just using her son, never hid her displeasure towards Xuxa: "Luciano is not a nobody. Before she ever thought about having money in life, he was already traveling first class with his siblings accompanied by the nanny."

Xexeo, a renegade Rio's Jornal do Brasil columnist wrote: "Let's imagine that Sasha looks like her mother.

It is not possible that Xuxa is thinking that she is going to inherit the features that the mother acquired through plastic surgery.

That would be funny. Sasha will have her mom's face but she will be completely different from Xuxa."

After delivering the first explosive salvo, Xuxa kept a rare low profile. To the demands from the Szafirs that she make a public apology all she could manage to say was: "Everybody makes mistakes, me included".

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

For decades, gouging has been the favorite pasti e of the Brazilian airline industry. Foreign competition ho ever is bringing radical changes and cuts up to 60% off re ular air ticket prices. The last salvo in this unheard war was iven by Vasp (Viacao Aerea Sao Paulo), the second largest razilian airline, which in partnership with American Conti ental is offering a $452 ticket to New York, more than 500 0 off the $999 regular high-season price. The three other airlin companies, Transbrasil, TAM, and yang (V iacao A-rea Rio Grandense), the largest of them all, have also promis d reductions up to 60% off their national and international rices.

The national skirmish started when regional dr carrier TAM (former Transportes Aereos Marilienses nd now Transportes Aereos Regionais) was allowed to fly t e shuttle flight between Rio de Janeiro and sao Paulo, the b siest air corridor in the country, and started charging 25% les than the competition. For more than 30 years, the so-calledpo te aerea (air bridge) between the two most populous and developed cities in the country was the fiefdom of the three airlin s, which divided the territory among themselves establishin a very lucrative high-priced, low-service route. Lately t ey were offering 30 daily flights covering the 225 miles be een Rio and Sao Paulo—a 50-minute hop each way—charg ng more than $300 for a round-trip ticket. With TAM' s ent now is everyone for himself. yang decided to abandon the ool, but not the route and will offer the same 25% discount iven by TAM. In an ironic twist, Vasp has started a price war at he same time when its pilots and other workers were ready to s ike due to late payment of salaries and Vasp's threats to cut w ges from 30% to 40%. Unable to match the competition Trans rasil has started to delay their salary payments too and ow er Omar Fontana has already signaled that he is ready for man- age with a wealthier foreign airline. Some experts believe tha no more than two airlines will be able to survive in the new co petitive skies.

LDUL PAGAAA,ENTO HORA EXTR

jornal.da tarde 80% IMAIS ROMAR101 QUEREM EDMUND°

ing that such measures are controversial and people have been hurt by the metal and the thorny plants. conomy

Upgraded For more than 10 years Brazil has been watched carefully by Washington's Commerce Department as a criminal on probation. Accusing the country of disrespect for intellectual property, the U.S., in 1987, threatened to impose more than $1 billion in economic sanctions against Brazil. The boycott was avoided by President Fernando Collor de Mello who started to correct the situation. In the years since the first moves to make Brazil respect pharmaceutical, music, computer and other patents, the nation has been upgraded from "priority country" (with serious problems) to "in observation with priority" to simply "in observation".

Only in May Brazil was taken altogether from the list. It doesn't mean however that problems have ended. Ambassador Charlene Barshefsky from the Commerce Department cited considerable progress in the country, but also urged Brazil to take additional steps to fight intellectual property piracy.

Cheap Chip The Brazilian experience with the $1,000 computer was short lived. So successful was the pioneering promotion that all the machines offered flew off the shelves the very first day the deal started. The sales stunt

7

Baby's Baby

FOLHA DI •

Jogo movimenta

L

As any other baby, Luciano passes his days alternating long sleeping hours, with crying and taking the breast. When it is time for feeding, the mother, who is nursing him, has to leave her dolls and rush to the child. It happens that Luciano's mom is just slightly older than he is. M. (the Brazilian Justice forbids the use by the press of full names of minors involved in police cases) is only 11 years old and she was raped in August 1997 allegedly by her neighbor—a 38-year-old peasant called Roberto Celeste—in the city of Sapucaia, state of Rio de Janeiro, where she lives.

Abortion is illegal in Brazil, but since 1940 the Penal Code establishes that the procedure is allowed until the 12th week of gestation when the mother's life is threatened or in cases of rape. The Justice had granted M.'s parents special permission to abort the fetus but religious leaders convinced them to let the child have the baby. The Catholic Church Committee on Life's Defense offered house and board plus psychological and medical assistance during the gestation and continues helping the girl's family.

For obstetrician Altamiro Sather Filho, an Evangelical, the birth had a taste of sweet revenge. The doctor, who helped convince M's family that she could have the child without a problem, was criticized by colleagues for putting the girl's life at risk.

Soon after the birth he declared: —The success of the operation proves that I was right when I said that the girl was not subject to life risk. I am happy for saving as a doctor one more life.

Despite being a preemie, the baby who was delivered by caesarian on May 13 is doing fine. As for M. she is back in school where she is in third grade. Her parents, Walter and Maria da Penha Machado, and the older sister take care of Luciano when she is out.

According to the World Health Organization (WHO), one million teen-agers give birth every year in Brazil. In 1992, there was another infamous case of rape and pregnancy of a little girl. It was J., a 10-year old, who gave birth to a girl in Mogi das Cruzes, state of Sao Paulo. The Church intends to use the latest case as a symbol for a national campaign against abortion.

••••

Fresh Icons For years the world of entertainment and TV in particular has given Brazil the idols it thirsts for. And Brazilians have not been let down lately. There is an abundance of new faces ready to be today's heroes. They are all young, pretty and well packaged.

They are people like songstress Ivete Sangalo, who made Bahia state axe music a must-hear rhythm in the richer South; Alexandre Pires, the crooner of the So pra Contrariar, a pagode (a samba style) band, the bestseller musical phenomenon with three million CDs sold--a record in the Brazilian recording industry—; and child actress Fenian& Souza, who plays Mili in Chiquititas, a big-hit soap opera among the kids. In other times they might be snubbed and considered not sophisticated enough to be consumed by the elites. Thanks to a democratization and leveling of tastes though the new idols popularity reaches all segments of the population.

The list of the emerging new stars also include the funk duo Claudinho & Buchecha from Rio and the samba group E o Tchan!, which made blonde Carla Perez and brunette Scheila Carvalho, both dancers, sex symbols and role models for kids and teens. Thanks to this new generation of entertainers 80% of the CDs sold today in Brazil are from national artists. On TV, mondo cane show hosts Marcia Goldschmidt on SBT and Ratinho on Record, both with a huge following are helping to define the national taste.

Another TV hero contributing to maintain the dumb blonde stereotype is 24-year-old Carioca (from Rio) Danielle Winits, star of Globo TV novela (soap opera) Corpo Dourado (Golden Body), In the soap Winits plays Alicinha, a model worried that she is getting to old for her career.

Danielle is also in Cabaret, a play being shown in sao Paulo. Winits's agenda is full and her star is rising. She will be Brazilian's Playboy cover girl in August and in October people will be able to see her in Jose Zaragoza's movie Ate Que a Vida Nos Separe (Until Life Do Us Apart). She has patented her name and soon all sorts of products bearing her DW trademark should start cropping up.

8

Scheila in Playboy

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

Ma The Blue Craze Viagra the Yankee blue bird of male sexual bliss, has taken the world by storm. In Brazil, the sexual-potency pill was supposed to be officially and legally introduced in Ju e, but you would never know that. The drug has been widely available even through classifie ads on the papers since its American release. Health Ministry Decree 107 published on ebruary 5 expressly forbids the import of Viagra into the country even though the domestic iroduction of the medicine and its commercialization is allowed.

The demand for the miracle pill was so overwhelming, however, that Pfizer, the laboratory that created Viagra, anticipated to June the launching of the product in Brazil.

It is estimated that 10 million Brazilian men could put the erection pill to good use it they only had the money for the pricey tablet. Brazilian doctors pressed by impatient pati nts started writing prescriptions for Viagra as soon it appeared in the US, knowing that the eager men would find a way to get the product. They were right. But even without a prescription OP VOIAW anyone with the money could get it.

Cat WO Muambeiros or sacoleiros (travelers who At4100, buy products in New York and Miami to resell in Brazil) started to reserve room in itiC01 their luggage for the happiness drug. A bottle with 30 pills being sold for $258 in Miami is being bought for $400. For those in a hurry, the pills can be delivered home for $700.

Some pharmacies started selling the product. Soon the medicine was also entering Brazil through the frontier with Paraguay, a country on the south with a tradition for smuggled goods, and was also available from camel& (street vendors) for about $20 one pill. Some of the boxes come with printed instructions in Portuguese on how to use the product. Counter cho Paiva indications are conveniently omitted "My wife with my best friend though.

Taking my Viagra!"

Some of the pills are crude falsification. And according to doctors not many Brazilian men will be helped by Viagra.

Dr. Marilene Cristina Vargas from the World Society for Impotence Research warnOd that only 29% of those with impotence problems in Brazil will benefit from the drug, since -ilost of the impotence cases in the country have an organic origin and Viagra has better r1sults when psychological causes are involved.

OA" TOMO WU V

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Playing With Fire Three popular saints in Brazil are celebrated in June. They are Saint Antho y on the 13th, Saint John on the 24th, and Saint Peter on June 29. Because of this the wh le month is dedicated to the so-called Festas Juninas. These are joyous celebrations often he d at night around a bonfire (it is winter in Brazil) accompanied by typical food (popco , sweet potatoes and a strong ginger-laced alcoholic concoction known as quenttio, whic is served very hot) and folk songs and dances. It is also time for firecrackers and firewor s.

There is ajunina tradition, however, that Brazilian authorities are trying to get id of: the custom of sending fire-propelled balloons into the sky. Despite the fires caused by the paper devices every year and institutional campaigns to eliminate the practice, th balloon tradition is hard to die. In Rio, for example, there are clubs that collect money ju t to build huge balloons that use 50 pound gas steel vessels to go up.

These gismos have become so dangerous that American Airlines and Lufth nsa have threatened to suspend their flights to Rio and Sao Paulo if the balloon problem they are invisible to the radar—is not solved. A collision of a plane with of the bigger ballo ns might cause an explosion and a tragedy in the air.

Only in February, law 9,605 was introduced making it illegal and subject to o e to three years jail terms all those who manufacture, transport and release balloons inti the sky.

Balloons are a serious threat to residences, businesses and forests and has secome a nightmare for oil refineries and other industries that work with inflammable mate ial. From the 4996 fires extinguished last year by Rio's firefighters, 2500 were caused by balloons.

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

was made by Carrefour, the French hypermarket chain, which put for sale a very powerful machine: a MMX system with 233 MHz, 16 megabytes of memory RAM, and a 2.1 gigabyte hard drive. The computer comes loaded with multimedia resources and a faxmodem. The monitor is included in the price. Brazilians normally pay 50% more at least for a similar system.

The campaign was supposed to last 12 days in Carrefour's 50 stores, but according to the company, all 5,000 computers in stock were sold in just a few hours.

Five thousand other people who also wanted the computer on the first day of sale could not be helped. The deal was offered through a partnership with American computer firms Advanced Micro Devices (AMD) and United Information Systems (UIS). How successful was the promotion? Carrefour sold 5,000 machines of its three bestseller brands during the whole year of 1997 and 50,000 is the total number of computers of all makes that Carrefour expects to sell this year.

Brazil is playing catchup in the computer area. The so-called "market reserve" system that lasted from 1984 to 1992, and whose intention was to protect a domestic computer domestic that never took off, imposed heavy taxes for the import of foreign computers. The measures didn't fulfill the dream of a Brazilian computer industry, but helped to create a blooming black market for foreign machines. e avio

Disk R for Racism One week after its launching in mid May the service SOS Racismo— (071) 321-7777—in the city 9

Val=

of Salvador, state of Bahia, had already received eight complaints from the population, seven of them from black people saying they were discriminated. Only a white woman made the same charge.

The inverse proportion of people complaining would make more sense. Official statistics reveal that 89% of Salvador's population is black.

The historical 449-year old town, whose city council always had a minority of black members, seems to live in an official apartheid system.

Blacks are rare in the best schools and in some others there is not even one white.

Case in point, the Steve Bilko school never had a white student in its five-year existence.

Bed and Rubber Motel in Brazil is synonym for whoopee hotel. Now, in Rio de Janeiro, where there are more motels by the square mile than any other place in the country, a new legislation will guarantee that the habitués from these houses will practice safe sex.

Law number 2,929 signed in May by Rio's governor Marcello Alencar requires that all motels in the state offer condoms to their customers together with AIDSprevention literature.

Motaxi In search of a solution for their traffic woes some Brazilian towns seem to have found

10

Presidential Offense By calling those who retire before the age of 50 as "lazy bums" President Fernando Henrique Cardoso seems to have offended almost everyone in Brazil, a land in which many people for sheer necessity start working as early as 14 or even sooner. According to the law, these workers can retire after 30 years of contribution to the social security service. Cardoso was addressing the National Forum in Rio on May 11 when he said to an assembly of businessmen, economists, and college professors: "People who retire before they are 50 are lazy bums who enrich from a country of poor and miserable."

The two-days-later explanation that his target was a few privileged public officials didn't convince and the newspapers were swift to point out that the President himself had retired from his job as a professor at Universidade de sao Paulo at age 37. For that he receives a monthly pension of close to $5,000. Cardoso was 48 when the political amnesty made it possible for him to reclaim his teaching post, but he preferred to become a professional politician.

Wrote Rio's daily 0 Globo: "Overworked, he (Cardoso) ended up showing a side unknown to a good many allies. The joker, good-humored and conciliatory, has given way to the president who says what he thinks."

The newspapers were inundated by protest letters like this one send to Rio's Jornal do Brasil by retired elementary teacher Lilia Levy: "I am one of the many lazy bums who retired before age 50 after having dedicated 18,000 hours of my life to the children of such neighborhoods as Paqueta, Cidade de Deus, Copacabana, and Rocinha. But my effort was rewarded and for the good services rendered I receive the exorbitant pension of R$530 ($460). I'd like to apologize for my lack of patriotism."

Also in Rio, composer and gtiitarist Joao de Aquino got together with other music aces like Nelson Sargento, Nadinho da Ilha, and Marquinhos de Oswaldo Cruz, to protest against the slur. In a party atmosphere they sang "Urn Milhao de Vagabundos" (One Million Lazy Bums), a musical response to what was taken as a presidential provocation.

Urn Milli° de Vagabundos One Million Lazy Bums Joao de Aquino and Dalva Lazaroni Quando eu me aposentar corn o baita de um salario mfnimo ai! vao querer me taxar de maraja de tremendo vagabundo!

Pro mundo do submundo pra la de 300 vagabundos de carteirinha assinada s6 oito anos...e mais nada!

Minha gente! Minha gente!

Brasileiros! Brasileiras!

Que é isso, presidente?

Aposentado? Tern é gente!

Quando fala!

Deve pensar!

Se no pensar... la vem nhem...nhem...nhem la vai bla...bla...bla!

Que e isso, presidente Vagabundo? Nao é bem a gente!

Deixa de drama... segura sua banda!

Vagabundo a ninguem se chama!

When I retire with a huge minimum wage alas! People will label me a maharajah, a super lazy bum!

For the underworld world with more than 300 lazy bums with official documents eight years are enough...nothing more (1) My folks! My folks!

Brazilian men and women!

What's that, President?

Retired? These are people!

When you talk You must think If you don't think...you get senseless yak yak there goes blah-blah-blah!

What's that, President?

Lazy burn? This is not really us!

Don't do a drama.. hold your band!

You can't call anyone lazy bum!

(1) An allusion to congressmen who can retire with full benefits after eight years in office.

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

The Cardoso administration seems to have opened a poetic vein among i s critics. Normally-restrained Josias de Souza, a renowned columnist for daily Folha de Selo Paulo lambasted a recent cabinet rearrangement in a rhymed poem.

A reforma em versos The Reform in Verse Josias de Souza Ah, govern() das ilusOes perdidas Dos tucanos depenados Das biografias falidas Dos pefeles animados Das armacoes desabridas Serra, sujeito esquisito Da Saude, sonha em ser presidente Por ora, se combate o mosquito E irrita muita gente Diz-se que é de Bornhausen Afirma-se que é de Maciel Ora, meu Deus, que bobagem E a ACM que Waldeck é fiel Nada é o que parecia 0 verniz falsificado 0 discurso enlatado 0 compromisso abandonado Caiu-se numa fria Botafogo é Flamengo doente Vern das Relacties Exteriores Nomeou-o o presidente Mas é a Maluf que deve favores As favas corn os escriipulos Despiram o rei 0 Congresso esta aos pubs FHC virou Sarney De Collor foi amigo ardoroso Na defesa do confisco, estava na lica Agora sob o professor Cardoso Renan foi parar na Justica Foram-se os ideais Foi-se a filosofia Os tucanos viraram pardais Foi-se a sociologia Nem etica ha mais , Pobre Freitas Neto Icone da fase chinfrim FHC arrematou o soneto Entregando-lhe um certo Mirin Ah, incrivel misterio Por que tanto papeldo?

De onde saiu tab ministerio?

Por que Ruth ndo disse nAo? Oh, supremo prejuizo 0 FHC puro sumiu Salve-se quem tern juizo 0 ACM assumiu

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

Ah, government of lost illusions Of plucked toucans (1) Of failed biographies Of lively PFLs (2) Of unabashed schemes Serra (3), weird fellow of Health, dreams to be president For now, he only fights the mosquito (4) And irritates many people They say he's for Bornhausen (5) They tell you he's for Maciel (6) Oh, my Good, how dumb Waldeck (7) is loyal to ACM (8) Nothing is what it seemed to be The falsified gloss The canned speech The abandoned commitment We fell into a trap Botafogo (9) is crazy for Flamengo (10) He comes from the Foreign Ministry The President appointed him But he owes favors to Maluf (11) To hell with scruples They disrobed the king Congress is jumping FHC (12) became Sarney (13) He was a fervent friend of Collor (14) He was on the ring defending the confiscatio Now under professor Cardoso Renan (15) ended in the Justice The ideals are gone The philosophy is gone The toucans became sparrows The sociology is gone Not even ethics was left Poor Freitas Neto (16) Icon from the shabby phase FHC concluded the sonnet Bestowing him a certain Mirin (17) Ah, incredible mystery Why so much fiasco?

Where this cabinet came from?

Why Ruth (18) didn't say no?

Oh, supreme loss The pure FHC is gone Whoever is in his mind should leave ACM is now in charge

(1) Toucan is the epithet for politicians belonging to the PSDB (Partido da Social Democracia Brasileira—Brazilian Social Democracy Party), the President's party (2) PFL (Partido da Frente Liberal— Party of the Liberal Front), a right-wing party allied to the President (3) Jose Serra, the new Health Minister, and Cardoso's close friend (4) A reference to a dengue epidemic in the country (5) Jorge Bornhausen, from Santa Catarina, president of PFL (6) Marco Maciel, the Vice-President (7) Waldeck Omelas, senator from Bahia, the same state of senator Antonio Carlos Magalhdes.

(8) ACM, Senator Antimio Carlos Magalhdes, the all-powerful PFL's defacto chief (9) Jose Botafogo Goncalves.

Botafogo is also the name of a popular soccer team in Rio (10) Flamengo is Rio's most popular soccer team (11) Paulo Salim Maluf, former mayor of So Paulo and president of the PPB (Partido Progressista Brasileiro— Brazilian Progressive Party) (11) FHC, Fernando Henrique Cardoso, the President (12) Jose Sarney, former President, criticized for being to chummy with the military regime (14) Fernando Collor de Mello, former president who was impeached for corruption (15) Senator Renan Calheiros from Alagoas but he b , was revealed the administra (16) Anton* enator fro (17)M. ciona —Special das Reform Ministry for Instituti. nal Reforms) was the name given facetiously to a new ministry, apparently created just to accommodate another one of the government's allies. Mirin reminds people of mirim, small.

(18) Ruth Cardoso, an anthropologist

11

the answer in the noisy, dangerous, but low-cc, portable, and cheap motorcycle. The two-wheeled vehicle is officially being used in several northeastern towns as moto-taxi. The idea that was first introduced in 1995 in Fortaleza, capital of the state of Ceara—there are 6,000 tnoto-taxis there—has spread throughout the region.

Authorities sometimes have been forced to legalize the situation of these two-wheeled taxis, but in many smaller communities the service is being offered without the backing of the law. According to weekly magazine Veja, while about 100 towns have legalized the moto-taxi service, it already exists in more than 1,000 localities.

Moto-taxi drivers generally use colorful outfits and circulate till someone signal for them. Passengers by law must be offered a helmet. There are no official statistics, but it is known that the motorbikes have been involved in several accidents.

The practice is also contributing to booming sales of motorcycles—the favorite is the 250cc model—,which cost three times less than the cheapest model of car (approximately $3,000 against $9,000). Since 1994 the number of motos sold in the country has risen 220%.

This is not a reaction to a possible bigger buying power brought in by the real, the new currency, and the economic stability that accompanied it. Sales of automobiles, for example, have declined 9.5% in March when compared to the same month in 1997.

Moto sales, however, have increased by 58% in identical period.

12

ISO At Closer Range Despite all the news about violence in Rio, some areas had escaped unscathed the crime wave.

Cariocas (Rio natives) themselves never stopped their daily or nightly stroll by Copacabana's beach calcadao (large sidewalk), for example. Criminal street kids known aspivetes have become more daring in recent weeks though and many residents from Copacabana and neighboring Leme are not venturing on the beach anymore, not even during the day. Talking to Jornal do Brasil, Itamarcia Marcal, president of Amaleme (Associacao de Moradores do Leme—Leme Residents' Association) said that the worse problem is in the Ary Barroso square, where there is a big concentration ofpivetes, drug dealers and prostitutes. "We had several muggings in the area," she noted.

According to the IBGE (Instituto Brasileiro de Geografia e Estatistica—Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics) 55% of Copacabana's residents are 50 or older. They are also the most frequent targets of the street kids. The problem became big news in mid May when renowned jurist and member of the Brazilian Academy of Letters Evaristo de Moraes Filho, 81, a Copacabana resident for 40 years, was mugged and thrown on the pavement by a pivete while strolling on Avenida Atlantica, the avenue by the sea, on a Saturday afternoon. He broke his right leg and had to be hospitalized and operated on.

The police say that they are doing what they can and even using officers on horseback, but authorities complain that when they arrest a minor he is released in a few hours and comes back to the same place where they were caught. They also complain that tourists and residents alike are too complacent and careless in the streets.

In another front battle against assaults, Rio's buses are starting to install video cameras inside the vehicles. The idea is being copied from a similar successful experiment on New York's subway. In 1997 there were 6,574 assaults on Rio's 6500 buses, an average of 18 daily occurrences. This number has increased by 50% in the last five years. Made in Canada, the bulletproof cameras being used are a little bigger than a cigarette pack. If the idea proves workable every bus will get two of these devices. Bus companies are also trying other deterrents as radio transmitters and a sign that blinks for help in the front panel of the vehicle when the bus is in trouble. appening

Evil Cannibal At age 60, Jose Celso Martinez Correa continues to be the enfant terrible of the Brazilian stages, a title he holds unchallenged since the '60s when the director and his troupe staged modernist Oswald de Andrade's (18901954) 0 Rei da Vela, a satirical take on chauvinism. The last outrage of the controversial theater man happened May 2 and 3 at Rio's Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, at the end of the show Trinta Anos de 68— Vanguarda, Desbunde e Utopia (Thirty Years From '68—Avant-Garde, Dazzle, and Utopia). Joining the Mangueira samba school percussion band, Ze Celso wrapped in a parangole—a tunic of the '68 Tropicalism movement created

by Helio Oiticica (1937-1980), another professional provocateur—started a strip tease that ended with the director completely in the buff throwing himself at the spectators. Horrified, many in the auditorium, which had small children as well as octogenarians, left the place. But many other stayed and joined the clean fun with their clothes on. Later, Correa explained that the disrobing had been didactic. "You need to be naked to feel entirely a work of art," he explained, adding: "We need to cannibalize the tedium this country is going through."

3RAZZIL - JUNE 1998

The tales and images of despair and starvation are all over. As regular as clockwork the drought in the Northeastern backlands is back and millions of people will not be able to make if help doesn't arrive fast enough. As in the recent case of the Roraima fires, the country's worst ecological disaster that Brazilians can remember, the severe drought shows how ill prepared is Brazil for any catastrophe.

EMERSON LUIS

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

B

razilians from the south and the more affluent areas these days are being shown on TV and the printed press daily images that for many might seem from a faraway land. Images of people hijacking food trucks, looting supermarkets, and attacking government food warehouses. And there are scenes of whole families in line, despair in their faces, trying to get a little food basket from the government in order to survive a few more days. One of these nights the prime-time newscasts showed a peasant preparing a large lizard to feed his family while another man, beaming, displayed the meal for the day that he had just captured.

The images are from the Brazilian Northeast—a region twice the size of Texas, taking 18% of the national territory—that is home to 45 million Brazilians. Here, the huge gap between the wealthy and the poorest is more evident than anywhere else in the country. According to a recently-released United Nations study, 46% of the northeastern population lives under the line of poverty compared with 20% in the richer south. The area, known for it cyclic lack of rain, is suffering its worst drought in 15 years, with no end in sight.

In Rome, FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization), an agency from the United Nations, has also sounded the alarm saying that 10 million people in the Northeast were threatened by hunger, adding that the production of cereals in the area this year would only be 4.5 million tons, half of the usual output. FAO's report noted that in some areas this reduction was up to 90%.

As in the recent case of the Roraima fires, the country's worst ecological disaster that Brazilians can remember, the severe drought shows how ill prepared is Brazil for any catastrophe. Both, the ravaging fires in the Amazon and the severe drought stretching across the eight northeastern states and threatening with hunger 10 million people, were blamed on the El Nino weather phenomenon. Once again the government showed that months of warning were not enough to make the state machine work.

Even though the government had reports since October forecasting a severe drought, not before mid-May—and only after much looting and stories of desperation reported in the media—the Nordestinos received the first emergency food' packages known as cesta basica (basic basket). By mid-May, 117 municipalities in the state of Bahia had declared state of emergency. About the same period, a report by the Baiano government revealed that 257 of its 415 municipalities had been affected by the lack of rain.

Close to 400,000 people who risked starvation were suffering directly the consequences of the severe dry spell.

According to governmental agency Sudene (Superintendencia do Desenvolvimento do Nordeste—Northeast Development Superintendency), 70% ofthe Northeast's municipalities were in a critical situation by the end of April.

As stated by Bahia's Fetag (Federacao dos Trabalhadores na Agricultura—Agriculture Workers Federation), at least 550,000 people were left jobless in the state due to the drought. In Treed, for example, a city 300 miles from Salvador, the bean crop, which was expected to wield 200,000 tons, was wiped out by the lack of rain. The drought also killed all the corn, papaya and cotton planted in the area. In response to the situation, Agriculture minister, Francisco Turra, promised the distribution of 800,000 cestas basicas per month.

Tales of Woe Newspapers are filled with stories of despair and misery like the one from Everaldo Joao dos Santos, 45, his wife Conceicao, 33, and daughter Joana D'Arc, 3, who walked for 25 days from MaceiO, capital of Alagoas state, to Sao Paulo-1524 miles, roughly the distance between New York and Dallas—,fleeing starvation, as reported by daily Folha de Sdo Paulo, on May 7.

In their cross-country odyssey they begged for food on roadside restaurants, slept just four hours or so at night, in the open, and walked most of the time. They were received at the Associacao de Voluntarios para Integracao do Migrante (Association of Voluntaries for Migrant Integration) where they had their first meal after 24 hours without any

food. The prospects weren't very encouraging though. Said dos Santos: "For now we are here in this shelter, but I don't know what's going to happen next. We might have to go on the streets."

Everaldo told Folha that he and his wife planted lettuce, potato and onion on a leased lot. With the drought, however, everything died and they started picking up food on trash cans. And why have they walked? They tried to hitchhike, dos Santos explained, but twice only were they lucky to get a ride for a small stretch of their trek.

In some roads women with four, five, six barefooted, dirty and malnourished children spend hours under the inclement sun begging for any kind of help from the drivers passing by. At BR-202 for example these mothers are spread over miles, each one separated from the other by some 200 feet. Many of them are the so called viavas da seca, drought widows, women who were left by their husbands who went in search of a job far away. As it happened in droughts past, scores will never come back.

Nobody expects the repetition of the 1877-1879 holocaust when it is estimated that more than half a million Nordestinos died in consequence of the drought. The situa-

FOLIIA DE SAUL

MST saqueia caminhoes e enfrenta a policia no NE tion is grave enough, however, to generate deep concern. In the previous dry spell in 1993, 11.7 million people were affected and two million of them had to be drafted into one ofthe various emergency labor fronts financed by the federal government. While in the Nazi concentration camps prisoners consumed 900 calories a day these people are not getting more than 500 calories.

A Call For Action Stills and films of squalid people picking up cacti and rodents to eat and dirty little children waiting for a government handout have moved some Brazilians to action. They have been collecting food to send to the area. The Nordestino plight has provoked more than just outrage at what has not been done to avoid a repeated catastrophe in the backlands.

There was also an outpouring of solidarity gestures including one from prisoners from Papuda, a jail in Brasilia, Brazil capital. The inmates skipped their meals so the food could be sent to the victims of the drought. There were also scores of donations from residents offavelas (shantytowns) in Rio and Sao Paulo.

14 BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

investing more than $ 0 million in a project to combat drought that at the same time will crease 65,000 jobs. In the state of Pernambuco, a man trying to stop a truck o the road linking Cabrobo to Orme), was killed when the truckdriver r fused to stop.

A Federal Police ieport showed that until May 7 there had been registered 43 looting episodes in the states of Ceara, Paraiba, Pernambuco, Piaui, Rio Grande do Norte and Sergipe. The document talked about the participation of the Catholic Church CPT (Comissao Pastoral da Terra—Land Pastoral Committee), CUT (Central Unica dos Trabalhadores—Workers Unified Central) and the MST, and seemed concerned that the movement might spread to urban centers.

MST's regional coordinator in the state of Pernambuco, Jaime Amorim, in a challenge to the federal action, promised that the movement would not change its course of action despite the repression and intimidation by police. "As long as there is a municipality not receiving food, the MST will be backing, helping, and organizing workers to occupy city hall, block roads and loot," said Amorim. He also explained that the MST did not invent looting, which according to him, has always occurred in the area when there is extreme hunger.

The Army was present when the federal government started distributing food and medicine on May 31. The first place to receive aid was Lagoa Grande, in the interior of Pernambuco state. This is a town where the MST has been very active leading the attack to several food trucks on highway BR-428. MST leaders followed at a distance a truck with food baskets escorted by 50 Army soldiers.

This was a rehearsal for the full-blown food distribution that started on June 1, when the Army used the 700 soldiers of its 72nd Battalion to accompany 37 trucks loaded with 900 tons of food to be distributed in 50 municipalities of Pernambuco, tromisirthzarli,t/STirek, upplc, Ceara and Paraiba.

In the short period between May 8 and 13, FAB (Forca Aerea Brasileira—Brazilian Air Force) planes were loaded with 106 tons of food that were collected in spontaneous drives that sprung in Sao Paulo, Rio, Brasilia, and Minas Gerais. Another 247 tons were waiting on warehouses, ready to be flown to the afflicted regions.

Lelio Calheiros, general coordinator for the Civil Defense by mid-May had a tall order to fill: finding a ship that would carry 250 tons of frozen fish, a donation from the state of Amazonas. All this generosity got a cold shower from the authorities, however, when they concluded that the cost of shipping this food was bigger than the goods themselves.

Some had a more radical approach in their response to the problem. The MST (Movimento dos Sem Terra—Landless Movement), for example, which has made a name for itself invading vacant farms and claiming rights to the land as a way to force the government to enact land reform, after helping stage some looting of supermarkets and food trucks in the Northeast, took its guerrilla tactics to the big cities, planting themselves in front of supermarkets while threatening to invade them.

In the state of Ceara, Baturite's city hall was invaded by

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Politicians' Full Plate

Taking the moral high ground, opposition presidential candidate Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva lambasted the government for coming tdo late in assistance of the drought victims. "The government ould not have been caught by surprise in a Govern() tira kite de question like the drought, which has occurred 19 times during cesta para flagelados this century alone," said the former labor leader.

He criticized Cardoso for condemning the looting, adding some decibels to the political controversy stridency by declaring at Ceara's Assembleia Legislativa: "The President has no Balsa de SP tern a'2a moral authority to criticize anyone in this story because he is a maiar queda de 98 professional looter. He looted the municipalities and the Kandir Food truck kidnapped by Landless law—Antonio Kandir is the former planning minister who eliminated taxes on primary products for export—loots the states."

1,000 people on May 18. The protesters wielding scythes Talking in Fortaleza to small farmers, Lula justified the looting for and machetes demanded the immediate creation of 3,000 food as an act of human rights defense. Said he: "To fight for the food vacancies in the labor fronts in the area. Threatened by generalized looting, Mayor Fernando Lopes and business that maintains a person alive is a question of human rights. It is a owners put their money together and bought food that was question of disrespect to human rights when someone goes hungry."

Lula also credited the MST with avoiding a civil war, by liberating distributed to protesters. They took the food, but kept the occupation of city hall. In Canincle, also in Ceara, the crowd some of the steam through looting and protests. During a meeting with occupied city hall for seven days until they were able to sign Sao Paulo's businessmen, the PT (Partido dos Trabalhadores—Workers Party) leader made a passionate defense of the MST: "It is the MST up for a job.

On the same May 18, another crowd of 1,500 or so that gives dignity to a parcel of the population that was becoming a peasants and small farmers near the city of Tabuleiro do pariah in our society."

Rebuffing accusations that he only criticizes without presenting Norte blocked highway BR-116, the main road linking viable solutions, the presidential candidate for the PT presented a five Ceara and the Northeast to the South of the country. Starting at 5 in the morning, the protesters used tractors and a human point project to help the drought victims: 1. To start paying retirement pensions to those already entitled to barrier to completely interrupt the traffic provoking a 2-mile jam. On May 4, about 1,000 residents from Tabuleiro do the benefit.

2. To extend the unemployment insurance to the rural worker.

Norte had taken to the streets demanding jobs and food.

3. To give emergency health assistance.

That demonstration was followed the next day by the 4. Use the money from the Northeast Fund to fight the drought. looting of the school lunch program warehouse. By then 5. To utilize subsidies of the electrical sector to irrigate the area.

Ceara had already seen 41 acts of looting plus 68 street manifestations, according to Fetraece (Federacao dos Looting In Question Trabalhadores da Agricultura no Ceard—Ceara's Federation of Agriculture Workers), the organization behind many A victim of the drought when he was a child, Don Francisco of these actions.

Austregesilo de Mesquita Filho, 74, bishop of Afogados da Ingazeira, In response, Ceara' s government announced that it is ,

•

15 BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

a town with 28,000 residents in Pernambuco state, got front stage and the front pages during the recent 36th General Assembly of CNBB (Conferencia Nacional dos Bispos do Brasil—Brazilian Bishops National Conference) when he defended assaults against supermarkets and government warehouses by hungry crowds.

"Looting, in cases of extreme necessity, according to the law, is no crime," he declared. He accused politicians of not solving the problem because "with people starving it is easier to buy votes."

Don Francisco, who has been working for 37 years in Afogados, says that many politicians in the Northeast use the drought to maintain themselves in power. "Everybody knew that this drought was coming, • but no governor, mayor or deputy has done a thing." He says that • authorities are just waiting for the coming elections: "In October the price of a vote will be lower because the people afflicted by the drought will do anything not to starve."

• The prelate was born in Reriutaba, state of Ceara, and says that he knows what a drought is since he was eight. He recalls being taken with • his family and neighbors to areas fenced with barbed wire where they were fed twice a day. "It was like in the concentration camps," he S . observes. "The concentration camps ended, but the situation of those drought-stricken people continues to be dramatic. People in my city are • eating even cactus leaves to keep from starving."

After an initial phase of irritation and confrontation,-the government opted to ask the Catholic clergy for assistance in dealing with looting. In two months there were at least 80 episodes of looting food warehouses, supermarkets and trucks. The CNBB says that it is in favor S. of looting when it involves cases of extreme hunger. But while leaders • of the MST were reluctant to meet with government representatives to try to find a solution for the 0 hunger problem, the Church has accepted to dia- • logue with the authorities, through Don Austregesilo de Mesquita, bishop from Afogados da Ingazeira, in the state of Pernambuco.

• Even among authorities there is no consensus on how to treat looters. Pernambuco governor, • • Miguel Arraes from PSB (Partido Socialista Looter leader Brasileiro—Brazilian Socialist Party) is against • using the police to prevent looting, arguing that this • is a social and not a police problem. He ordered his • state police to work as mediator and not in a repressive way. "The • police," he said, "must anticipate themselves in order to mediate the situation, getting in touch with city hall, the church, the commerce, and associations, so that with the government's help they can assiktlhe drought-stricken population through the distribution of food.""-, For Cardoso, a sociologist turned politician— he has been accused by many people who voted for him of having forgotten his social commitments as a leftist intellectual—finding a balance has revealed close to impossible. If he maintains himself at a distance from the northeastern misery he is called uncaring and callous. Ifhe travels to the area to meet people and watch the situation in loco he is presented as a demagogue and opportunist. Cardoso, who has been an atheist most of his life, was also much criticized for declaring: "The drought problem depends on God, on the time, on the rain."

Justice Minister, Renan Calheiros, says that he fears that the looting would create a climate of anarchy. "These are not looting actions by the hungry anymore," he said, "but something organized with ample covering by the media." Calheiros sent a letter to all northeastern governors asking their commitment to prosecute those who incited looting.

At beginning ofJune only Bahia and Pernambuco had people in jail for having participated in looting. In Juazeiro, state ofBahia, there were six MST members detained accused of leading the attack to a government food warehouse. In Pernambuco there was a teacher indicted for inciting people to invade a food store in the town of Ouricuri.

Blaming milk producers for speculative prices, the government decided not to include powdered milk in the food baskets. In order to assist more people the package was reduced from 42 lb. to 22 lb. The cesta basica being distributed contains 11 lb. of rice, 11 lb. of corn flakes, 7 lb. of pasta, 11 lb. of beans, and 2 lb. of manioc flower. Only • the bare essential. No meat, no sweet. But Sudene promised to regular- • ize the situation soon by acquiring $15 million in food.

• • ••

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Ca liforyda and Israel have been

used as pi ion for several irrigation n North Northeast.

Until now, however, no plan has Until gone beyond the drawing board.

To use the waters of the Sao Francisco river t irrigate the Northeast was a pledge made by President Fernando Henrique Cardoso during- the campaign. It is a mystery why nobody has done this yet since the 'work costs roughly the same as what the government spends in food and emergency work when there is a severe dry spell like now: $1.3billion. The sa Francisco plan istixt,Oldolle. It is always remembered when the situation gets dry and tough on thebacklantik.

Historians tell that Dom Joao VI, who in 1808 Mstalled the Portuguese court in Rio after fleeing Napoleon's troupes, already thought about switching the Sao Francisco Waters, an idea that ah ad of its times for technical reasons. Besides,was the popue lation in the area was sparse when compared to the south of the country,.

Backed by the sthdy of engineer Tristao Franklin de Alencar Lima, Who proposed a systetn very lar to what is being presented today, 411/347, Cetini's representatives Marco de Macedo and D gos Jaguaribe suggested taking the vvaters fromthe SAO Francisco to the Jagu aribe rivet mid from there tOthe dry riverbed ' s in the area. The idea didn'tead though. ge The work promised by Cardoso should be 00Mpleted by now, but it was neverstarted. ThePtesident wants four more years to start and finish the project For that he would have to be reelected first, an accomplishment that according to the latest opinion polls is far from guaranteed. After years lost in some cabinet drawer, the Sao Francisco river plan has to be redrawn. The new study with the expected environmental impact of the project will cost at least a cool .$15 million.

The state ofB ahia has always opposed the project arguing that the water detour would severely harm the state's eponOmy by threatening four essential power plants in the region. To avoid a collapse, according to Coelba (Companhia de Eletricidade da Bahia--Bahia's Electricity Company), the government would have to build more power plants.

When concluded the work would serve a population oftix million people, more than 330,0000 hectares would be irrigated and 1,300 miles of dry riverbeds would be brought back to life. The costliest component of the plan are powerful pumps—at least 18 of them will be needed—that will take the river's water to the dry riverbeds in Pernambuco, Paraiba,

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • ow BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

le S • • • • 00000 • • • • • • • 411)

ItWItot, Ceara, and Rio Grande do Norte. Each of these pumps can cost as much as $10 million.

That would be something similar to the project that transformed semi-arid California into one of the world's greatest agricultural powers. While in California the yearly average rainfall is 220 mm, the Northeast fares almost three times better with 600 mm. The lack of water was solved in California thanks to the diverting of the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers in the North and the Colorado river in the south.

According to AntOnio Evaldo Klar, professor at• Botucatu's Faculdade de Agronomia, in the interior of Sao Paulo, the switch of the Sao Francisco waters is the only real solution for the Northeast. "Any other project will be only a palliative," he says.

The federal government has spent at least $8.5 billion since 1988 to fight the northeastern drought.

The Dnocs (Departamento Nacional de Obras Contra a Seca--National Department of Works Against the Drought) alone received $3.2 billion, but the money went also among others to Codevasf (Companhia de -Desenvolvimento do Vale do Sao Francisco--Company of Development of the Sao Francisco Valley), and Prohidro, the Sudene's irrigation program.

In 1972, another Ceara representative, Wilson Sá Roriz, suggested the construction of a 150 mile-long canal, but the project was considered Pharaonic even for the general who were in power at time and had tackled useless and lavish plans like the Transamazonica road. Another plan with an estimated cost of $1 billion was developed in 1981 by the Dnocs.

In a surprising announcement, President Fernando Henrique Cardoso declared on June 3 that he will start very soon the preliminary work of diverting the Sao Francisco water using the Nordestinos who are being hired for the emergency labor fronts. He blamed the delay on the Union Audit Office, which was investigating how the studies on the environmental impact of the project were commissioned.

The government says that the changes now are for real—you don't have to believe though—and that by 2006, seven million waterless Nordestinos will have plenty of the liquid, which will be brought by a series of dams and channels that are budgeted at $1.3 billion and will be financed by the World Bank and Japan's Overseas Economic Cooperation Fund.

BRAZZIL -JUNE 1998

•• • • • • •

•

The looting may hal, e delayed the distribution of food, since authorities were afraid to take the food out of the warehouses and have trucks be ransacked. On the other hand, some of the towns that received prompt assistance were guaranteed special treatment due to the threat of looting in the area. That's what happened for example in Serra da Telhada with a volatile situation involving 20,000 peasants in a state of extreme misery.

• •

510

•

+he Government Stand Chief of the military staff, General Alberto Cardoso—no relation to the President—, says that the government is ready to act in order to avoid any semblance of anarchy. "We will never allow the installation of a state of anarchy in the country," he declared. "And we are mobilized in a way that w don't have even a sensation that we live in anarchy with looting bein shown on TV at all times. This sensation of anarchy is not good for t e people, for those afflicted by the drought, for the movements or fort'e democracy. We condemn those who profit from the situation and bri g people who are not hungry to loot."

In his weekly radio pr. • ram, President Fernando Henrique Cardoso asked those hit by the dr. ught not to allow themselves to be used by unscrupulous politicians. He gave listeners a 800 number—(800) 611995—to call the new ser ice disque-cesta in case they knew improper use of the food. Said the resident: "Whoever has already suffered of hunger in the past know that who was hungry not always received food. This is something t at Brazil cannot accept anymore. We cannot accept that even one fanfly goes hungry in our country."

Talking to reporters, the President added: "This is immoral. They are using poverty and hu ger to disorganize what needs to be done to solve the situation." C doso also threatened to take legal action against union leaders, the andless Movement, and membeis of the clergy, who have defended looting by hungry peasants and sniall farmers. And the President an ounced that Sudene had already certified 1,209 municipalities as eing in critical situation.

During a press conf rence in the Alvorada Palace's g dens, in Brasilia, at the end of ay—the first tete-a-tete with the press in Brazil in seven months—he President responded to those who accuse his administration f doing very little to end the drought drama.

And used the occasion to announce a package ofmeasures staIting with the June I release of $65 million for what he called "produ tive fronts", an activity better known as labor or emergency fronts.

The intention, annou ced the President is to assist as many as one million people with literacy programs, agriculture training and work, and food baskets. Said C rdoso: "Nobody is going to die of hunger."

And added: "The northe stern people want respect. They accept food because they need it, but what they want is work. " Cardoso classified the widespread looting as anarchy and an assault against the interest of the population. "This is against the democracy," he said. "This is against the law. We fought a lot to have a democratic regime. I don't want to see Brazil again in a regime in which the President has to order people in jail, has to send the army. I am not going to do this. I don't want this to happen. (...) I don't want to imagine what is going to happen from pow on and also I am not saying the looting occurred just because th re was some political intention. It occurred because there were diffl ulties, because there was somebody without food. This is an objective ata. It not my style denying reality. We don't discuss if a hungry persoi has the right to loot. The problem are those who are not hungry anI are looting. If this happens it has to be punished."

The administration h some ideas of what it wants the "productive fronts" to be. One plan is o make them into a tool to improve the quality 17

of living in the area and possibly create a permanent job for the participant. Among the trades to be taught there will be carpentry, cosmetics, and the travel business. Those involved in these groups will be encouraged to organize themselves into co-ops once the emergency program ends.

For 27 hours ofweekly dedication, people will get around $17 a week or a little over $70 a month. The federal government is covering 82% of this amount, being the rest left to the states.

There will be "ecological fronts" to work in the recuperation of the soil and the cleaning up of water sources, "cultural fronts' for the artistic inclined, who will learn how to make hammocks and crafts with argyle and leather.

The Government Absence Can Cardoso be trusted?

Milos a Obra (Getting to Work), the book containing Cardoso's platform when a presidential candidate, establishes the irrigation of small and medium properties in the Northeast as a priority of his administration.

Cardoso' s goal, according to the publication, was to extend irrigation to 1.5 million hectares.

With less than seven months left on his four-year mandate, the President was able to implement his irrigation , program in less than 300,000 hectares, or a mere 20% of what was promised. Why the huge disparity between promise and reality?

They are due to a crisis in agriculture and lack of funds, the administration responds.

As a counterpoint for the government's poor performance, the Environmental Ministry's secretary of Water Resources, Fernando Rodrigues, notes that from 1974 to 1994, the irrigation effort was smaller than during Cardoso's tenure.

Ambassador Sergio Amaral, the President's spokesman, responding to opposition candidate Lula, who accused Cardoso of being a "demagogue" and a "liar" for not having followed through on his promise of diverting the waters of the San Francisco river to irrigate the arid areas of the Northeast, said: "The project is progressing and the bidding for the necessary 18

Drought, drought, go away For centuries Brazil has lived with the Northeast's drought.

Even camels have been used in a not-too-serious fight against the scourge.

The debate over ways to solve the northeast region drought problem is an old one. In 1855, for example, Marcos Antonio de Macedo, deputy from then Para province, wrote a report rebuffing those who called as unworkable a project to divert the waters of the Sao Francisco river in order to irrigate the semi-desert areas.

Pressed by one of the many severe droughts in the region, emperor Don Pedro II in 1859 appealed to poet Goncalves Dias and baron of Capanema to find a solution for the chronic problem. The poet and the noble came out with a simple and practical idea: to import camels.

In years of drought the northeastern region could not transport its goods and commerce had to stop since the donkeys and oxen that carried them were one of the first to die.

The camels were bought in Algiers and 14 of them arrived on July of 1859 in the port of Fortaleza, Ceara, with four Algerian trainers. As reported in Renato Braga's book Hist6ria da Comissiio Cientifica de Exploracclo (History of the Exploration Scientific Committee) the desert animals had a cool reception and the "moor" that accompanied them were seen with distrust for being "forceful enemies ofthe Christian faith". The camels didn't resist the bad vibes and the northeastern weather.

The federal government has been incapable of establishing a policy to solve the northeastern drought problem. In the last 20 years alone there were at least eight different projects that were started and then abandoned. They had names like Polonordeste, Projeto Sertanejo, Programa sao Vicente, Projeto Padre Cicero, Finor Irrigacao, and Papp (Programa de Apoio ao Pequeno Produtor Rural—Program of Assistance to the Small Rural Producer).

Finor Irrigacao, for example, an ambitious project that envisioned the irrigation of 1 million hectares for the cultivation of grains, fruits and tubers, has never left the drawing board. Simply they could not find money to fund the project.

In an article for Rio's Gazeta de Noticias in August of 1878, when Brazil was still an empire, writer Jose do Patrocinio, who had been sent to the Northeast to cover the deadliest drought ever in Brazilian history-500,000 people died—commented: "The tragedy of the national shame presented in Ceara has for stage all the vast territory of this unfortunate province. (...) Expelled from their home by the whip made by nature with the sun rays, the fate of the hapless is the peregrination about the country until they find a town in which they keep on miserably postponing their vanishment into a tomb."

One hundred and twenty years later the shame, the tragedy, and the same location endure.

It is believed that half of the population of Ceara died of hunger in 1878. The tragedy has not repeated itself in the same scale, but the more and less severe droughts have been a cyclical phenomenon in the area. The ones from 1915, 1919, and 1932 were devastating too.

Even though the Northeast agricultural potential, in special for fruit trees, was discovered, tested, and approved in the mid sixties, it never led to an ample and long-term project. As one of the best-known experts on drought in Brazil, Jose Otamar de Carvalho, author of the often cited A Economia Politica do Nordeste (The Northeast's Political Economy) noted: "The actions of development promoted under the sponsorship of the State have been conceived and executed with a duration determined, in great measure, by the need to mitigate the drought's effects."

Experts see two mains reasons for the chronic postponement of a solution for the northeastern drought: resistance by the big farmers, who are opposed to change their traditional way of raising cattle and cultivating cotton, and the fact that the political power has shifted in this century from the north to the south of the country.

The labor fronts were created during the four-year drought that started in 1979 and affected 20 million people and 84% of the Northeast. The fronts initially were used in private property with loans subsidized by the government. Criticism on this arrangement changed the practice into emergency fronts in which the workers were used to toil in government projects.

Paulo Pereira da Silva, 42, president of Sao Paulo's Metalworkers Union, after a recent visit to the Northeast wrote in the daily newspaper Folha de Selo Paulo: "Since the past century, the drought and the development of the Northeast have been treated with plenty of demagoguery and little action. Don Pedro II promised, in tears, that he would sell to the last jewel of his crown to solve the drought problem, but the crown is in a museum nowadays, with all its jewels intact."

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

studies have been opened. This is a complex situation, however, and it needs a careful evaluation of the environmental implications."

The present administration has been accused of delaying for months the release of funds to fight the drought so it could pressure congressmen to vote with the government in some controversial measures like the reform of the social security system.

More than $130 million that were available since January only started to be passed to the states and municipalities at the end of April. This amount had been approved in December by Congress in order to combat the anticipated effects of El Nifio in the region. Most of this money though is being used now to pay for pet infra-structure projects oflegislators who are friendly with the administration.

Bahia's Geddel Vieira Lima, who is leader of the PMDB (Partido do Movimento Democratic° Brasileiro—Party of the Brazilian Democratic Movement) in the lower house was complaining about the delay. He was promised $1.4 million for his electoral bases, but by the first week of May hadn't been given the money yet. "If the government had given the money in January much of the work to fight the drought would have already been done," he commented. V ieira Lima admitted that in the balance are the 10,000 votes he expects to get in the area.

In January, Ricardo Barbosa, then secretary of Social Communication for the Secretariat of Regional Policies was very candid and clear on how the administration works, when he commented about the priority given to projects of the govern' ment's allies: "This is kind of obvious. You wouldn't expect us to liberate money to our foes."

The northeastern governors who in May got together in Recife, capital of Pernambuco state, for the ceremony of taking office of the new Sudene's superintendent, Sergio Moreira, seemed to agree in one thing: the secular federal-funded emergency labor fronts are a necessity and should be implemented immediately.

Expressing the concern of his colleagues, Ceara's governor, Tasso Jereissati, from the PSDB (Partido da Social Democracia Brasileira—Party ofthe Brazilian Social Democracy), Cardoso's party, declared: "We cannot wait any longer." "The big problem is the lack of work for the rural workers," echoed Sergipe's governor, Albano Franco, also from the PSDB. In his first speech in the new post, Moreira guaranteed that all the regions in need would have enough federal resources for the labor fronts as well as for the cestas basicas. Sudene plans to enlist as many as one million people from the 1209 municipalities in state of emergency to work in the labor fronts.

The decision of Cardoso to visit Ipird in the state of Bahia—a town with plenty of water and green— didn't spare him from the uglier side of the drought.

Unemployment is rampant. Every week some 500 people leave the are in search of greener pastures mostly in the interior of Sao Paulo, Mato Grosso, and Minas Gerais states.

Distant 160 miles from Salvador, the capital, !pill, which was Bahia's third best producer of milk and was ranked fourth in grain production, today barely can supply these goods to its own population. Beans and corn, which were exported to other states, now have to be bought elsewhere and milk production since the start of the drought has fallen from 34,000 gallons a day to 5,200.

To cope with the lack of rain people have some traditions, which may not help, but that are religiously kept anyway. One of the more ingrained of these costumes is to "steal" the image of Saint Joseph from a neighbor as soon as the dry spell starts and to only return it when the rain comes back.

Things should get much worse before it starts getting better according to the INPE (Instituto Nacional de Pesquisas

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

Espaciais—National Institute of Space Research). With the help of satellite ilata, the INPE forecasts that the drought will last at least until July with rain precipitation from 20% to 80% below average f r this time of the year. INPE' s CPTEC (Centro de Previsao do T mpo e Estudos CI imaticos—Weather Forescast and Climatic St dies Center) has already concluded that the present drought s already one of the three worst to hit the North and the Northea t of Brazil in the last 30 years.

In the past—and this year was no exception—the drought has brought hor es of hungryflagelados (scourged ones) also known as retira tes (the retreating ones) to urban slums mainly in Rio and Sao P lo. Recent figures show that 5,000 Nordestinos are arriving dail at the Sao Paulo's bus terminal. The city's mayor, Celso Pit a has accused his colleagues from small towns hit by the dry sp 11 to give one-way tickets to their residents so that they can re ch Sao Paulo.

What to Do? In most anal ses of the northeastern cyclic drought crises nature is presen ed as the villain. According to this point of view, if the pro em is water, the construction of big dams and the implementat on of irrigation programs are the solution. And much has been d •ne in this area, but most of this work of the socalled hydraulic policy ended up benefiting only the big cattle ranchers of the rea.

For USP's ( niversidade de Sao Paulo) geographer and professor, Azi b'Saber, an expert in semi-arid regions, the Northeast probl m is mainly demographic. He notes that no other semi-arid area in the world has the same high demographic density the Brazilian Northeast. The solution in this case would be to promote emigration from Nordestinos to other areas of the country.

Economist (=leis() Furtado, who was Sudene's first superintendent, has a similar approach in which he notes how for many decades the area kept an explosive demographic growth. According to him, the hydraulic policy was a creation of the local elites to help their own agribusinesses and prevent their cattle from dying during the worst droughts.

According to Haroldo Vasconcelos, president of the National Forum of Agriculture Secretaries and Agriculture secretary of Piaui state, a little investment might recuperate the more than 20,000 wells that were dug throughout the Northeast region and then abandoned.

Vasconcelos calculates that for $400 or less per well would be enough to put them back to good use.

They are few success stories though in the long fight against the drought in the Northeast. California Project in Caninde do sao Francisco, in the state of Sergipe, is one of them. While there is desolation all around, the 1356-hectare California project has become a prosperous oasis where everything seems to grow. Among the cultures being developed there are coconut, corn, tomato, banana, and all kinds of vegetables.

The area is irrigated with water from the sao Francisco river, which runs through the city. The water is pumped from the river, taken to the California project through a stone-lined channel and then distributed to the 333 properties in the project th ough 15 miles of smaller cement channels.

Sergipe has other projects like the ones in Jacarecica and Ribeira where t e water comes from dams. There is a total of six of them. Toget er they produce more than half of all the vegetable cons med in the state.

The comm nities have created a rural middle-class in Sergipe. All th families inside the projects have their own houses and 70° of them also own some kind of vehicle.

19

LONGING FOR BRAZIL

Letters YOUR &*$#!!! MAGAZINE I WOU. II e to air my.ispeasurewi

Brazzil—it should be written with an sa vehicle for divulging the culture of Brazil in America, which unfortunately only publishes articles with pornographic content, including "guides" or "dictionaries" of cussing words in Portuguese. I am sure that your magazine would be able to show the cultural side, the natural beauties, the music, the economic and technological advances, and so many other features that would present our country in a more positive way.

The impression of a foreigner who reads your publication, according to American friend-s, is that Brazil is a country where violence, corruption and prostitution is part of the daily life. As a brazilian I am ashamed of recommending your magazine to friends.

I hope the level, of your magazine will improve.

Rita Los Angeles, California TUNNEL VISION arco Aure io Pinto Ri eiro an is Land Ahoy!" (Brazzil, May '98) is another example of short-sighted journalism by an armchair Marxist. Brazil's social problems are abundant and just giving the land to the Sem Terras (Landless) would be as stupid as this country giving Alaska back to the Russians. For example, the Sem Terras have been allowed to squat on railroad land in Campinas„ which has led to tremendous escalation in crime such as aimed robberies, burglaries and assaults.

—There is a new kind of fear in the neighboring working class neighborhoods. Further, the children of the Sem Terras cause havoc among the children of the working class families at school. Once these neighborhoods were safe and great place to live, but now these residents must live in fear due to short-sighted solutions such as Ribeiro's.

The solution to these problems will require debt forgiveness by the U.S. and European banks and other measures beyond the scope of my expertise.

Glen Hurtig University of Southern California ANOTHER ONE FOR AMADO T an you or publishing e letter defending Jorge Amado in the last issue of Brazzil. I was also very surprised to see such a vicious and unsubstantiated attack on one of Brazil's most famous and beloved writers.

An unrepentant leftist, Brazil nut, and Amado fan,

Charlotte Casey San Jose, California IN DEFENSE OF THE FOREST I app au Emerson uis :razzi Apri '98) for the enlightening article on one of Brazil's greatest natural treasures: the Amazon rainforest. I also applaud the staff and insightful writers of Brazzil for their contribution to educate both native Brazilians and non-Brazilians about the dangerous plight of the impressive selva biosphere.

Prof William D. Curran South Suburban Col — Geog. Dep. South Holland, Illinois

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is ways a p easure eac mont to see Brazzdat my doorste_p. I enjoy your publication very much. It is always so interesting and informative to read and learnmore about this magnificent country. Your magazine always brings me saudades loucas to return to Brazil and know more the people and the Brazilian culture. Muito obrigadar

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BRAZIL BOUND Your magazine always brings a wealth o knowledge, and I admire your no-censorship attitude in your presentation and content. I hope to learn as much as! can about Brazil, its music, its people, and its rich culture, before I journey south for my first visit. From my early youthi have always had a close affinity for the musit and people of Brazil.

Flopefully soon I willbe able to travel south and fulfill my lifelong. desire to experience the real Brazil firsthand.-Please, print my address and phone number for anyone in the U.S. or Brazil to contact me. I am a professional musi+ cian performing and loving Brazilian musie here in Oreg9n. And thanks again fora Splen; did, informative, humorous, arid realistic maga+ zine every month!

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ALIVE IN CHICAGO I waslust ooking through your won a erful magazine. Here in the Chicago land area there are not very many Brazilians. Your magazine has kept the culture alive for me andChicago.

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RIGHT ON Keep • ivu ging our country in a positivei not destructive way. Let us start erasing tilt stereotyped stupid image of Brazil and, obvii, ously, our own image as scoundrel and km+ sponsible. The work of Orazzil is commend+ able. Keep the pot boiling. A humble sug,ge tion: please, more articles on the sub-trom region. The South has also activities wo mentioning.

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Ahhhhhhhh, passion Brazilian stylle! I hope to experience more. Someday soon I must visit Brazil. For now, I will research and learn more of Brazilian culture and the person that I just met. Longing for Sergio of Salvador.

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Desemprego baixa renda e miseria absoluta retardam solucao definitiva para a desnutricao

For poorer and for poorer In the root of Brazil's extreme poverty is the abject gap between the haves and the have-nots. Thanks to a sociologist known as Betinho, the whole country organized itself around committees to guarantee that nobody went hungry. But after the initial enthusiasm stoked by the media, the interest fizzled. From close to 5,000 neighborhood committees the number has dwindled to a little more than 1,000. Far from TV, far from the conscience, as if one season's truckloads of food had solved for good the country's chronic hunger.

The United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) launched on October 19 of last year a worldwide campaign to collect funds to combat hunger. The principal strategy of promotion of the initiative was TeleFood, a televised program produced in Italy where the headquarters of FAO is located, and broadcast in 60 countries including Argentina, Bolivia, Chile and Uruguay.

In Brazil, the only network to exhibit part of the program was TV Cultura of Tocantins, a state that holds only 0.65% of the country's population.

Later, the campaign was also launched in other states, a fact that does not make less significant the country's omission, especially in the same year of Betinho's death. The hemophiliac sociologist ,who died of AIDS due to a blood transfusion, was nominated in 1994 to the Nobel Peace Prize for his leadership in a movement of great repercussion, the Acao da Cidadania Contra a Fome, a Miseria e pela Vida (Action Pro Citizenry Against Misery and Pro Life).

22

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

The question remains inevitable: If Betinho were alive, would Brazilians be more involved in the fight against hunger and consequently in FAO's campaign? Maybe. Nevertheless, even before the sociologist's death, the involvement of the population in his movement had considerably decreased. In 1994, there were almost five thousand committees of AO° da Cidadania spread over all the 26 country's states. At the end of 1997 only one and a half thousand remained active.

There are various possible explanations for this retraction.

One of them is related with the overexposure of the subject in the media during the first year of the campaign in 1994. In the daily newspaper Folha de Sao Paulo alone, Betinho's name appeared in 478 articles. After having exhaustingly explored the uncommon participation of the society in the campaign, the media needed to obey one of the basic rules in the business: to change the subject.

Without the media's support, the level of commitment decreased. If the hungry in Brazil became a non-issue on television, they also stopped disturbing the portion ofthe public that had been moved by the media's influence, as if the mountains of bags of rice, beans and flour collected in the shows for the campaign and epically televised on the news had definitely satisfied all the necessities of the nation.

Another reason to explain the drop in the public's interest for the cause of hunger is more positive: today Brazilians are eating more than in 1993. The new currency plan (Plano Real) drastically reduced inflation that used to corrode the acquisitive power of the population, causing a considerable increase in the consumption of food, including among the lower classes. Many ' people began to purchase foods that were not part of their regular menu before, like yogurt for example. According to government data, yogurt consumption increased by 87.2% from 1994 to 1996. During the same period, was also observed an increase in the consumption of other foods like cheese by 51.4%, pork by 31(check)% ,chicken by 27.8%, beef by 19.4% and fish by 12.3%.

At the same time, chronic problems in the country like malnutrition and infant mortality are declining. A research conducted in the capital of Sao Paulo by the Nixie° de Pesquisa Epidemiologica em Nutricao e Sande Pnblica da Universidade de Sao Paulo (Nucleus of Epidemiological Research in Nutrition and Public Health of the Sao Paulo University) revealed that, from 1985 to 1996, the percentage of children younger than five years with growth inferior to their genetic potential— one of the main indicators of malnutrition in children—decreased from 30.6% to 13.7%. In the federal arena, the most recent National Research of Demography and Health (PNDS) concluded that, from 1974 to 1996 there was a reduction of 69% in the number of malnourished children of the same age.

Too Much, Too Little Looking at it in this way it may seem as if a miracle were taking place in the country. But in reality, the PNDS numbers themselves don't allow much optimism. In the first place, the biggest recoiling of malnutrition happened from 1974 to 1989, a period in which the index fell 61 percent. After that, it continued to decrease, but in a much slower pace.

Secondly, regional differences are still very acute. Even though the Northeast has improved its indicators, the disproportion in relation to the Southeast, which was already significant, increased. The percentage of malnourished Northeastern children in 1974 didn't quite reach three times the one verified in the Southeast. In 1996 it was more than four times bigger than that of the richest region of the country. According to the same research, form 1989 to 1996, despite the considerable decrease in infant mortality, the record of children born underweight was not altered—a factor that can bring health problems to children BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

and reveal main trition during pregnancy.

Furthermore, here are more numbers that show a nutritional situation even fu her from the level of acceptance. An example is a study conduc d by the Sociedade Brasileira de Alimentacao Enteral e Parente al (Brazilian Society of Enteral and Parenteral Feeding) that no ed some level of malnutrition in half of the patients admitted to the hospitals of the SUS (Sistema Unico de Sat:We—Health nified System). And among the malnourished, continued the research, there is a 38 percent greater occurrence of ho pital deaths.

Another rese rch, conducted in the cities of Campinas (Sao Paulo state), Ou o Preto (Minas Gerais), Goiania (capital of Goias and Rio d Janeiro by the now extinct INAN (Institut° Nacional de Ali entacao--National Food Institute), detected in the populatio of all these cities deficits in fundamental elements like ca ones and iron, which predispose people to various kinds of illnesses.

War of Numbers Regarding th official statistics on the number of starving Brazilians there e two hypotheses. Either they do not exist, or they are conflic mg. The program "Comunidade Solidaria" (Solidary Comm nity) of the federal government, is based up to this day on the n mber of poor indicated by the "hunger map" of the IPEA (I stituto de Pesquisa, Economica Aplicada— Institute of Appl. d Economic Research), which uses data from the beginning o the '90s.

This is what says the executive administrator of the program, Anna Peli o, who worked at the institute during the time that the so-called hunger map was made. The publication stated that there were 2 million people living below the level of in the country. In other words, this would absolute pove account for the umber of Brazilians whose income did not allow the mini um food consumption necessary to sustain good health.

But accordi g to Vilmar Faria, coordination secretary of another official a ency, the Camara de Politicas Sociais (Chamber of Social P litics), these 32 million are "certainly not government dat '.Judging by last year's presidential speech in the occasion of e third anniversary of Plano Real, President Fernando Henrique Cardoso prefers Sonia Rocha's—she also worked for Ipea in the past—most recent estimation. According to her, from 1993 to 1995—period of the implementation of Plano Real-13 million people had surpassed the poverty line.

But the fact that it was used in the president's speech does not mean, according to Faria, that this number is endorsed by the government.

"What is an official data?," asks the secretary. The answer is difficult. TWQ figures are generated by the same research agency, both offlicial. One is used to implement a government program, anothe1. in the speech of the main responsible for the same governme t. Nevertheless, they cannot even be cornpared, not only because they refer to different periods, but mainly because ach places the poverty line at a different point.

But, argume ts aside, even by the most optimistic perspective, there are still 16 million starving people left. A very large contingent, whi h tends to increase if the high level of unemployment contin es both in the city and in the countryside. "The problem of hu ger is still very serious and the permanent solution will dep nd on employment and income," says Peliano.

In declaratio s like this, Comunidade Solidaria shows what it has in comm .n with AO° da Cidadania, the movement created by Beti i ho. For both of them, it is no use attacking hunger separate y. Therefore the name Action Pro Citizenry Against Misery and Pro Life and its insistence in the trilogy food, jobs and I. nd—themes of the campaigns of '94, '95 and '96.

23

It also derives from this fact the articulating character of Comunidade Solidaria, which since its launching has integrated social action from different state departments like Agriculture and Education, among others.

This vision of the combat against hunger as an all encompassing mission does not mean that there is prejudice against pure donation of food, which both programs consider justifiable in emergencies. A famous phrase by Betinho, when responding to the ones who accused him of being part of the vicious cycle of food-based welfare was: "I'd rather be a welfare advocate, so people can survive and fight."

But the most important characteristics they share may be the decentralization and the emphasis in active community participation. These strategies were—and still are—very successful in the committees of Acdo da Cidadania and serve as a model to the formulation of directives to Comunidade Solidaria.

Scary Numbers The numbers are from the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO): In the entire world, the life of 840 million people is compromised by hunger and malnutrition and 200 million of these are children under the age of five.

In Brazil, the reality is no less dramatic. The statistics are conflicting, but today millions of Brazilians live below the level of poverty, which is an excessively soft way of explaining these people's lack ofregular meals and consequential contraction of diseases that drastically reduce their life expectancies.

The reason for hunger, at least in Brazil, is recognizably the result of an extremely unequal distribution of income. It is a complex problem whose solution depends on gigantic structural reforms. There are a lot of initiatives that are trying to improve the situation of the hungry in Brazil, even if they sometimes result in a vicious cycle. The best example is the movement initiated by sociologist Herbert de Souza, better known as Betinho, who died last year leaving as legacy a great lesson of community activism.

Together with other initiatives presented in this article Betinho's campaign is still working. All of these projects, however, are not enough to eliminate hunger and malnutrition in the country. FAO itself recognizes its difficulties: In the campaign initiated last year which counts with the participation of leaders of the entire world, including Brazil, the goal for 2015 is to reduce by half the 840 million starving people living today.

Until then, many will have succumbed to their own misery.

Canalized Energy Acdo da Cidadania was born from a campaign of the same name, in April of 1993. It was founded by a group of intellectuals—including Betinho—who had articulated the movement according to a politicized view in protest against the irregularities occurred in the government of Fernando Collor de Mello.

"With Collor's impeachment, we thought that that energy should be directed towards diminishing the injustices in Brazil," tells sociologist Mauricio Andrade, who participated in the founding of the movement and coordinates the committee Rio da Acao, the first in Brazil and a sort of mother-cell to the 27 state committees and four thousand municipal ones (less than half in activity today).

Acao da Cidadania works as an informal entity from the judicial point of view. The committees appear spontaneously, by the initiative of people who are sensitive to the cause. The committees do not report to any central office, but receive logistic support for the execution of the campaigns. Each municipal or neighborhood committee has the right to use the movement's logo and declare itself part of it. The adherence of corporations and national institutions—Banco do Brasil, for example, in 1994 encouraged its association of employees to engage in the campaign—was decisive to amplify the scope of AO°.

The campaign of Action Pro Citizenry Against Misery and Pro Life consisted in divulging by the vehicles of information and culture, figures about hunger and misery in Brazil and move the society to give donations that were gathered especially during cultural and artistic events that brought together a great number of people.

The committee articulated the action and donors knew where and to whom their donations would be directed. "This aspect of Acao continues even though it has less visibility in the media. The best example is the "Natal sem Fome" (Christmas Without Hunger), says Andrade.

Three other aspects are prominent as fundamental in the work of AO°. The movement managed to revive the discussion and the reflection about solidarity in Brazil. Consequently, the leadership of Acdo believes it has stimulated a certain inquietude before the issue of hunger. Finally, according to Andrade, there was never any record of charges of any deviation of donations of resources.

Crime Watch Hotline One cannot say the same of Comun idade Solidaria. Since its creation, the hotline number designed to record charges of irregularities in the governmental program—(800) 61-1995)— has registered 94 accusations from which 24 were considered proceeding, informed Peliano. In 1996, more than half of the 24

I. '

cities from the state of Minas Gerais that were helped by the program were the subject of investigations, the reasons varying from insufficient documentation to suspicions of electoral use of the program's resources.

Comunidade Solidaria today helps 2.9 million families in 1.368 municipalities, all chosen for having especially high figures on misery, among other criteria. Assistance is made possible by means of local committees that have, among other things, the job of registering the families to be benefited.

The direct work against hunger—one of the many attributions of the program—is possible in two ways, explained economist Peliano. The administration of school lunches and the distribution of cestas basicas (literally meaning "basic basket" that contains basic food supplies such as rice, beans and flour) in the poorest towns of the countryside through the Prodea (Programa de Distribuicao Emergencial de Alimentos— Program of Emergency Food Distribution).

In regards to the distribution of school lunches, Peliano celebrates the increase in the annual frequency of school assistance, which she attributes in great part to the decentralization that had already been implemented in the government of President Itamar Franco. Even before that, according to her, the federal government administered all the resources, "or it bought and distributed the food to schools itself." r.i2.41, One can imagine the problems that this meant in terms of provisions to the most distant regions of the country. During the best years of the distribution of school lunches, told Peliano, the government passed sufficient resources for 100 school days through the Department of Education. Nevertheless the average was of 60 days of provisions and in 1992 there was a worse figure of 32 days. In 1994, Comunidade Solidaria assumed the responsibility for the distribution of school lunches, which today reach students 160 days a year, according to their executive secretary .

In regards to the distribution of cestas basicas, ultimately linked to the Department of Agriculture, an old claim of public opinion was finally satisfied: The utilization ofthe government's strategic stocking, which used to be completely neglected—as it was frequently showed on TV—becoming a banquet for fungi and bacteria, not to mention some less nicer beings.

In 1995, according to Peliano, three million cestas basicas were delivered and in 1996 seven million. Last year the distribution exceeded 10 niillion, benefiting one and a half million families in the poorest towns, settlement areas of landless people and in Indian reservations.

results are amazi g and the association is strengthened. Today between 80 and 0 people are involved in community activity.

School attendan e increased and there is not any record of malnutrition in hildren—eight severe cases registered in the beginning of th program were reversed—and the nutrition level of resident in general improved significantly.

In regards to the generation of income, the fund formed by the money brou ht by the selling of food baskets has already financed 72 initi tives that vary from the set up of a body shop by an unempl yed mechanic to the construction of a pamonharia—p ace that sells a Brazilian style corn curd—by a resident.

Initiatives Under the Overpass

Meanwhile, apart from the actions of the government, fortunately there are still some praiseworthy initiatives here and there that have shown good results. Case in point is the Projeto Cesta Alimentar para Geracao de Emprego e Renda (Project Food Basket for the Generation of Jobs and Income), promoted since 1994 by NGO (Non Governmental Organization) Agora.

Flavio Schuch, coordinator of the initiative, tells that it was elaborated from a frequent discussion at the peak of the movement of Acao da Cidadania. On one hand, all those that defended the emergency distribution of food, and on the other those who preferred to search for alternatives for the long term.

"We reached the conclusion that we should do both," said Schuch. Therefore, the basic idea of the program is to utilize food not as an end but as a mean to stimulate community organization and the search for alternatives.

The practical application of all this is a mutual exchange. In the poorest communities chosen by Agora, food baskets are offered at subsidized prices but only to families connected to the association of community residents. In adittion, someone in the family must be engaged in community work and the children need to be in school. The baskets are paid by the NGO and are not donated. Initially they are sold at 40 percent ofthe cost price.

During the course of four years of duration of the program, the subsidized price is constantly being reduced.

The money collected from the selling of the baskets is deposited in a fund used to finance, also with subsidized interests, initiatives of the residents themselves to increase their income. People who are interested in the loans must form groups of five people who become surety for each other. If one of the borrowers do not honor they commitments, the other four must assume the debt.

Patience

Schuch admits that the project's mechanism is complex and it is not easy to make people understand how it works. "It is a task that requires a lot of patience," he said. But after some effort the ideas are assimilated. The program already attended 2.6 thousand families in 45 poor communities of Feira de Santana, is the state of Bahia, and federal capital Brasilia.

One of them is closely watched by Schuch. It is the community of Lixao (Big Trash) in the federal capital where there are 520 families from which one hundred are assisted by the initiative. Besides the fact that they live by the huge garbage deposit that renders the place its name, the community does not count with basic sanitary facilities. Even after years of visiting the place, Schuch said he is still disturbed by the stench. And that's not all. Because there is no asphalt and no vegetation, on the extremely dry days of the Central Plateau, the area is covered by clouds of dust resulting in great incidence of respiratory problems.

In 1994, the project was started as a pilot program in this community. "We said at the time that if it worked there, it would work anywhere," said Schuch. And according to him, the BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

Another initi tive with the goal of conciliating food and job alternatives is th restaurant Cascudas that is open under one of the most busy vi ducts of Sao Paulo since 1993. The name ofthe business comes om one of the basic words from the vocabulary of the horn less. "Cascuda" is an empty can or a plastic bottle cut in hal , an indispensable artifact to the daily task of asking for food on the streets. At the restaurant Cascudas, however, they a e not necessary. There the clients, its majority being the homel ss, eat from plates sitting at a clean table, habit that is rare in th ir routine.

For $ 1, the average price of a hot dog in Sao Paulo, the restaurant serve homemade food. "We already know the tastes of people." says !dila Maria dos Santos Cuer, one of the cooks at the restaurant Like other employees of the restaurant, Cuer has already live • on the streets. "I was six months without a place to live and many days I didn't have what to eat." Her first visit to the resta rant was to ask for a job. "I didn't get a job but soon they offer d me a blessed plate with food." A couple of days later there as a place and Cuer joined the team.

Today there are 12 people who live at the top floor of the place and take t rns in the tasks of cooking, serving the tables, working at the c sh register, washing dishes and cleaning trays.

Cleaning is a ba ge of honor, unimaginable to one who looks at it from the outsi • e and sees a door under a viaduct. "When we got here we coul n't even go in. It was filled with waste material and papers forg tten by some city agency," remembers sister Leni Albuquerq e, coordinator of the project.

Slowly, the gave it some life. "When it was getting better, we found the co mittees ofthe campaign against hunger. It was the push that we needed." During that time, they were given the stoves and a lot f support, and donations didn't lack. Today the situation is a lot ore precarious. "We survive thanks to the few people who co inued to help us by buying food," said Albuquerque.

Every morning, one person from the team goes to the Central Market to gather something that can be used among fruits and veget bles wasted. "Even so, we have to buy some of the products with our money, which results in each person working with i4s to receive only about $80 a month," told Albuquerque. evertheless, Cuer doesn't think about looking for another job. 'Here we are treated like real people." And she insists in treati g customers in the same way. "They stay here only during lun h, but we sit and talk. I know of their sufferings and I suffer with them."

This art cle was originally published in Portuguese by magazine Pro lemas Brasileiros, which you can read on line at http://www.uol.com.br/sesc/spu.htm Translated from the Portuguese by Rosemary Gund, freelance trans ator and student of Italian culture and literature at Sa ii Francisco State University. You can get in touch with her t rgund(&,sfsu.edu 25

Book Review/Essay

Is It All True?

Did the CIA commit g_enocide in the Amazon? According to the authors of Thy Will Be Done the answer is yes and this is_just one of the many startling revelations of the book. Is Thy Will Be Done too far-fetched or too conspiratorial to be believed? Whether or not you believe all of the information presented, it is well argued and meticulously researched.

KATHLEEN DE AZEVEDO

The majority of books published today disappear into an information jungle, never to return. The shallow and the hastily-researched should remain forgotten in this wilderness. For one book however, Thy Will Be Done. The Conquest of the Amazon: Nelson Rockefeller and Evangelism in the Age of Oil, its disappearance marks an uneasy trend where excellent, yet controversial books are allowed to slip into oblivion. The book was published in 1995 and received praise from Harvard professors to leaders of human rights organizations. Brazzil published an excerpt in its September 1995 issue. When I heard of the book this year on National Public Radio's Forum, a program that features guests from the world of politics and art, Thy Will Be Done's authors Gerard Colby and Charlotte Dennett were pleading for the book's survival.

Colby's and Dennett's 18 years of monumental research has brought to light the corruption of U.S. corporate interests in South America and its culpability in the destruction of the Amazon. Yet, the book's distribution history is a struggle and a story all its own. After the first hardback printing, HarperCollins spent a pittance for publicity save an ad in the New York Times and in a few smaller publications. The authors were only given $2,000 and told to set up a nationwide book tour themselves. They drove out to the Midwest to start their tour, stopping occasionally when the stress of travel sent their car to the shop.

The experience was, as Dennett said in a phone interview, pure "anguish and anxiety." Nevertheless, the book sold out a second printing in 1996 in spite of no advertising budget.

Successful appearances on nationwide talk shows sent listeners to the HarperCollins phone lines, only to be told the book is "out of stock" with no print date in sight. This was bad news for a book striving to tell us what we needed to know but didn't want to hear. The fact is, foreign policy is not given much play in the American press, save a few tidbits of Clinton's sightseeing forays. U.S. corruption overseas is given even less play; perhaps to keep the public ignorant. However, ignorance is not bliss. Latin America, especially Brazil, is a key player in our global future. And in order to understand this future, it is important to know the past.

Thy Will Be Done opens with the mass slaughter of the Amazon's Cintas Largas Indians who had the misfortune of living on mineral-rich land. In this massacre, a "visit to the dentist" was to be shot with a pistol down the throat. The Indians' curare-tipped arrows could not fight off the Brazilian troops trained by the International Police Academy, part of the Agency for International Development run by the CIA. William Cameron Townsend, head of the Summer Institute of Linguistics (SIL) a U.S. evangelical organization, denied the slaughter. In fact, SIL's missionary activities which included "pacifying" the Indians and keeping records of "fierce" tribes, paved the way for Nelson Rockefeller to expand U.S. holdings into South America, particularly in Brazil. However, expansion, which he called his "shining dream", came with a price.

Nelson Rockefeller was introduced to native culture at the Taos Pueblo in New Mexico while attending a Pueblo Indian song and dance festival which was staged, it so happened, by the Bureau of Indian Affairs with funds from Rockefeller's own Colorado Fuel and Iron Company. As Nelson stood among the earthen dwellings that rose out of the red clay, he felt as if he might take a different path than that of his father, John D. Rockefeller Jr. But the Rockefeller tradition was entrenched. John D. 26

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

46

owned oil derricks and mining operations On U.S. Indian in developing e Amazon. There was one catch: Vargas reservation lands and his money supported Indian missionwanted Brazil t control their own oil reserves and he set up ary schools. These notorious boarding schools pulled chilthe Partido Tr alhista Brasileiro (Brazilian Labor Party) dren away from their community and forbade as part o his plan to nationalize oil. The U.S. retalithem to practice their language and culture, and ated by upporting the military coup lead by Gen. so demoralizing and splintering tribes. These Eurico aspar Dutra that drove Vargas out of office. schools cleared the way for Rockefeller's land Dut made friends with Rockefeller after development projects. His son, Nelson Rockefe ler's loans helped to bolster the Brazilian Rockefeller, followed the same path down to the armed f rces. When Vargas came back to power in Southern Hemisphere.

1951, h established Petrobras on the theme "0 The Rockefeller fortune is enormous. In Brapetroleo é nosso." (The oil is ours.) The U.S. again zil alone, at one time or another, the family had retaliate , suspending credits and cutting their imover 40 holdings, from real estate, to farming ports of razilian coffee. This financially broke the operations, to banks. In addition, the Rockefeller back of e Vargas regime and left him open to the family controlled Standard Oil and Chase Maneventua coup that threw him out of office. In his hattan Bank which funded the Rockefeller real suicide ote, Vargas wrote: estate interests. Nelson set up the American International Association for Economic and So"On e again, anti-national forces and interests, cial Development (AIA) and the International Basic Economy coordinated, h e become infuriated with me... After deCorporation (IBEC) which funded Brazilian and American cades of domin tion and exploitation by internal economicventure capitalists who wanted to set up shop in the Amazon. financial group , I made myself the chief of a revolution and However, money was not enough. Developers needed safer I won... My sac ffice will maintain you united and my blood working conditions and native tribes stood in their way. shall be your b er of struggle."

Evangelist William Cameron Townsend, the founder of Vargas wou d not be the only leader to struggle against the Summer Institute of Linguistics (SIL), funded in part by , U.S. corporate i terests. Whereas Juscelino Kubitschek was Rockefeller, believed it was God's will to "civilize" the Indians. The organization under the name of Wycliffe Bible51 b" pro-U.S. seekin U.S. loans to fund Amazon projects includTranslators, trained missionaries to translate the Bible in4 ns ing the new ca ital Brasilia and the miles of new roads Indian languages using "four pillars of linguistics, educagutting through the Amazon, President Goulart wanted to nationalize Br ilian businesses, and set up land reform tion, health reform and economics." laws. His insist nce that U.S. "channel requests through the The first SIL teams were invited by another worldacclaimed agency, the Service for the Protection of theijn, [Brazilian] fed al government" caused the U.S. to cancel aid and demand loan payment. Because these funds were no Indian (SPI) to begin field operations in Brazil, presumably longer availabl ,Goulart was forced to devalue the cruzeiro to protect the Indians. However, SPI's bloody legacy had which caused ega-inflation. "cleared people like trees", slaughtering entire villages, The fallen e onomy proved disastrous to Brazil's entresometimes using dynamite and "germ warfare"—the delibpreneurs who, ong with the military, set out to overthrow erate distribution of smallpox and tuberculosis into tribes Goulart. The CI sprung into action with a litany of underwith no antibodies toward the diseases. The genocide under handed dealing They infiltrated labor movements and SPI was enormous. In 1957, the Indian population was trained troops o mobilize against Goulart. The growing estimated to be between 100,000 to 200,000. By 1968, the youth moveme against the dictatorship became a threat not population was half that size. only to the Braz lian establishment, but to capitalist interests Disgusted with the SPI's brutality, Brazilian anthropoloas well. gist Darcy Ribeiro preferred Townsend's Summer Institute.

• The CIA in itrated the group that killed activist Carlos Ribeiro was compiling a survey of over 186 indigenous Marighella; this assassination ultimately destroyed the spirit languages and thought he found an ally when SIL offered to of the Left. Whe the dust of the coup had settled, Rockefeller assist him. Ribeiro saw missionaries as protectors of indigreasoned that" emocracy is difficult and not always attainenous tribes and was not aware of SIL' s right wing connecable in the light of history. tions, nor the fact that SIL was working Authoritarianism is an enclosely with the ruthless SPI. In fact, the trenched position, especially in SIL was not your starving, all-sacrificing areas not used to democracy." missionaries. For many years they had Colby and Dennett take us been clearing wooded lands and building further through a maze of CIA hidden evangelistic empires. In SIL 's Pemanipulations worthy of a plot ruvian Yarinacocha jungle base alone, there from a James Bond movie, as was a school, a church, administrative the exposé shifts from army buildings, a library, a post office and even tanks to jungle laboratories. The an auditorium. Another important part of CIA believed American GIs had the jungle bases: hidden airplane runways been brainwashed during the to accommodate the twin engine Helio Korean War and wanted to find Courier planes used not only by missionartheir own mind-altering drugs. ies, but by the CIA. The CIA project MKULTRA, In the beginning of World War II, Gerset up laboratories in the Amamany and U.S. both courted South America zon and ran test on natural hallucinogens, trying to fmd their for support. The "Open Door policy" of the U.S. won out in own brainwash' g drugs, perhaps one that could be given to its development and support ofLatin American trade. Gettlio a potential assas in to kill on command. The SIL handed over Vargas also threw his support to the U.S. as he was interested BRAZZII. -JUNE 1998

27*

information on medicinal plants that they had gathered from for many liberation movements. The fact that Colby and the Indians, thus aiding in the MKULTRA research. By now Dennett wrote this book and are not in prison, is a testament it was clear that the SIL had not only sold their own soul in to our freedom. The struggle of this book to be heard, and the exchange for a powerful evangelical empire, but they had growing corporate sabotage of controversial works, make sold the soul of the Indian as well. our freedom seem as fragile as the Amazon itself.

Eventually, the decimation ofthe Indians became public.

In 1971, at the World Council of Churches convention at Additional information: Barbados, a large number of anthropologists and ethnoloHarperPerennial (a subsidiary of HarperCollins) is not gists met to discuss their role in studying indigenous culreprinting the book at this time. However, you may purchase tures. At the convention, Indians testified as to the devastathe book through an independent distributor. tion caused by the uneasy mix of evangelism and Amazon development. SIL was mentioned as being the first missionMake a $25 check to J. L. Temple at: ary contact and therefore part of the destruction. The SIL's Institute of Awareness meddling with native ways, was tantamount to cultural P.O. Box 1234 genocide. Anthropologists, government agents and social San Carlos, CA 94070 scientists were also held responsible for weakening the tribes. As a result, the Declaration of Barbados, a portion of You can get in touch with Kathleen de Azevedo, which called for the expulsion of all missionaries, was the author of this article by e-mail at ratified. One of the many people to sign the declaration was Lthespis@concentric.net Darcy Ribeiro.

Thy Will Be Done-950 pages in all, is not meant for an afternoon at the beach. At times the intrigue is heavily laden with events and nefarious characters. The charts which show the connections from corporation to corporation (both U.S. and Brazilian) looks like a hydra whose AIR - IATA 01-1-9279-012 dangerous heads have multiplied beyond control. However, it is a OCEAN - FMC 3853 book worth reading and is definitely a must for anyone interested in South America beyond Carnaval and beaches. Many could argue that TO ANY AIRPORT IN BRAZIL the CIA's role as claimed in Thy Will Be Done is too incredible, too conspiratorial to be believed. But in the light of what we do know about CIA involvement in Vietnam, El FULL CONTAINER & CONSOLIDATIONS Salvador and Nicaragua and in the personal lives of controversial U.S. TO ANY PORT IN BRAZIL citizens, the CIA cannot claim cred(EXCELLENT CONTAINER RATES) ibility. But whether or not you believe all of the information presented, it is well argued and meticulously researched. Moreover, in the wake of NAFTA and the burgeoning globalization of wealth, this SHIPPER'S DOOR PICK-UP m* AIR/OCEAN FREIGHT mi. book provides us a cautionary tale.

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There is a price to pay for a healthy economy. Rampant consumerism at the expense of others threatens the world's ecological and economic balance. A nation is ultimately considered great, not by its conquests, but what they have contributed to humanity. The U.S. has produced the Constitution, a model

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"Eu queria dizer a ela que se a penas algumas coisas estivessem erradas corn o meu corpo estaria bem, eu preferiria ter qualquer coisa errada corn o meu corpo do que alguma coisa errada corn minha cabeca..."

The Bell Jar by Sylvia Plath 0 telefone tocava insistente mas Leonor no se moveu .na cadeira-brincava corn as frutas artificiais no. centro da mesa. 0 silencio sO era cortado pelo som histericoque vinha do aparelho.

A vontade era de ficar au i para sempre, sentada, como se seu corpo fizesse parte dos mOveis da sala escura. 0 som estridente parou e ela continuou sozinha, quieta, corn os cabelos amarrados em coque, nuns chinelos velhos e sem graca.

Finalmente largou as frutas, levantou devagar, arrastou aqueles chinelos velhos e sem graca ate a pia do banheiro.

Pegou os comprimidos—uns vinte—e encheu a mdo corn eles. Foi colocando os pequenos circulos brancos na boca e tomando dgua por cima. Escovou os dentes corn cuidado, soltou os cabelos, olhou uma Ultima vez para o espelho-percebeu que os olhos estavam muito inchados e a pele macilenta dava urn tom tragic° aquele rosto sem gracacomo os chinelos velhos.

Foi para o quarto devagar, dobrou a colcha corn cuidado e a colocou aos pes da cama, arrumou os travesseiros, se assentou e tirou os chinelos velhos e sem graca. Passou a mdo pela testa e afastou alguns fios de cabelo que the incomodavam os olhos. Pegou o livro de Garcia Marquez e se ajeitou corn cuidado debaixo da coberta fina. A luz damesinha de cabeceira ajudou-a a passear pelo proprio quarto e ver o que sempre estivera por Ia. Um guarda-roupaescuro corn espelho na portaL—uma porta que nao conseguia fechar direito. Perto dele urn cabide para bolsas e cintos e uma cadeira de vime. As cortinas eram curtas, estampadas corn flores descoradas e o tapete ocre de franj as n'do tinha nada de especial. A penteadeira antiga, que fora de sua nide, estava enfeitada corn vidros. de perfume, urn porta-joias de porcelana e urn anjinho azul de louca. 0 banco, forrado em "gobelin", completava a decoracdo—o pano estava velho e gasto ejá ndo se podia mais ver o desenho de uma cena rural francesa do seculo XV. Uma sensacdo de decadencia e desgosto insistia ern competir corn a frustracdo, o desdnimo e a dor incontida que jã estavam la ha tantos anos. Um sono fininho veio aparecendo e a cabeca parecia girar urn pouco. 0 livro semiaberto ficou sobre o peito, e o dedo indicador marcava a pagina que estava sendo lida. Pensamentos desencontrados comecaram a se misturar nervosos, parecenclo que cada um queria ser o principal. Leonor ouviu fisos de crianca e uma claridade irreal deixou que ela BRAZZIL - :JUNE 1998

UNPUBLISHED TWO BY ADELAIDE BOUCHARDE DAVIS

rai

•

AIM TICI

Fru it

His hands strolled through her body, exploring its roads getting to know each place, and Fighting the world of unconfessed desires that she had hidden from herself all these years. Leonor felt like floating and she screamed when she reached the orgasm.

passeasse pelo jardim da casa da familia.

0 pai, homem bonito ainda, nos seus qu enta e tres anos, aparencia urn pouco vulgar co seu bigode lino e cabelo glostorado, veio ver o bic inho que ela pegara na.arvore; abracou-a pela cm n ra e ficou respirando ao seu ouvido, corn o corp • bem encostado no dela. Eta estava entdo corn doz anos e nao gostava de ser abracada flaquele jeito. ntia o corpo dele duro e quente e suas mks gro sas e pesadas pa.ssavam apressadas pelas pernas d la. A nide veio chegando e trazendo a bandeja c m as car. limonadas e os biscoitos fritos e cobertos de Era uma mulher bonita mas tinha urn ar iste, mesmo quando vestia aquele avental xadre corn fibres enfeitando os bolsos. Estava corn uns m inta e cinco aims, tinha os cabelos pretos e curtos sua chegada o pai se afastou nervoso de Leonor e foi pegar um copo—o calor daqueles dias d nove bro era insuportdvel! A mde se assentou na cade a de balanco corn um copo na !Tao; distrafda de urn •impulso corn o pefazendo a cadeira se movim ntar.

Tudo tinha um ar de preguica. Leonor pego urn biscoito e o Ultimo copo que suava, e se ass ntou

nas escadas da varanda. 0 pai comecou a conversar sobre a viagem que Dona Zila faria para visitar uns parentes.

Leonor perguntou se poderia ir tambem e a mde, corn urn sorriso sem sal, disse que ela precisava ficar por causa das aulas. 0 pai disse que a passagem já estava comprada e que o trem sairia as sete e meia naquela mesma noite.

Foram levar Dona Zild a estacdo e elas se despediram corn um abraco; a m de pediu que a menina cuidasse do pai.

0 homem beijou o rosto da mulher sem carinho aigum—urn beijo de pura obrigacdo.

Leonor e o pai voltaram para casa em silencio. Ele dirigia o carro yelho corn a mdo esquerda, enquanto a direita, pesada e grossa, acariciava as pernas da menina que se encolhia toda sentindo raiva daquele homem mau. Quando o carro parou em frente ao porta° ela saiu apressada, batendo a porta corn forca.

Entrou em casa nervosa e foi para o banheiro; lavou o rosto corn a dgua fria e olhou para o espelho que refletia medo.

Foi para o quarto, depois de se acalmar urn pouco e vestiu sua camisola de mindsculas flores vermelhas. Sem vontade alguma, foi dizer boa noite ao pai. Ele estava lendo o jornal e vendo televisno. Quando ela chegou, o homem fechou o jornal e pediu-lhe que ficasse um pouco na sala corn ele; ela disse que estava corn sono e ele gritou que ela se assentasse no sofa., ao seu lado. Eta obedeceu calada e ele ficou passando a Ind° em seus cabelos compridos; ela fez urn movimento tentando evitar a caricia.

Ele segurou os bracos da menina corn forca e disse em torn de ameaca "fique quietinha que eu ndo you te machucar!".

Depois comecou a acariciar seupescoco e abriu os botoes da camisola. NA° diziam nada; ele olhava para a televisdo enquanto ela, acuada, deixava que as lagrimas lavassem sua vergonha. Estava paralisada de medo. Aquela mao grossa e imensa passeava vagarosa pelo seu corpo miirdo e ela sentiu o coracdo parar quando os dedos dele se enfiaram dentro de sua calcinha machucando seu corpo e sua alma. Em panic() ela se levantou, sem permissdo, e correu para o quarto trancando a porta. Ele, excitado, respirando forte, e completamente fora de si ficou Id no sofa e ndo fez nenhum gesto para dete-la. Leonor se escondeu sob as cobertas, rezando para que aquele homem ndo fosse para o quarto dela.

Tudo era agora urn silencio so; talvez Deus tivesse dormido tambem, e se esquecera que a mde tido estava la para tomar conta dela.

Dona Zila ficou fora por cinco dias.

Quando chegou em casa tudo estava em perfeita ordem. Nunca ficara sabendo o que tinha acontecido na sua ausencia, nunca ficara sabendo o que acontecia na sua presenca.

Aquelamulher triste morreu quando a filha estava corn trinta e sete anos.

31

Leonor continuou a morar corn o pai na mesma casa—aquela casa sem graca que nunca tivera festa de aniversario, que nunca tivera festa de debutante, que nuncativera festanenhuma. FreqUentara umas poucas festinhas em casas de conhecidos, horas dancantes num clube do bairro, e algumas festas • juninas. Jamais convidou os raros amigos para irem a sua casa—a mae estava sempre triste e o pai tinha cara fechada. Quando Dona Zila morreu, Leonor ja havia se formado em Psicologia e o Senhor Sinval já estava aposentado e mais carrancudo do que nunca, bastante doente e calado. A moca trabalhava numa empresa grande, na area de selecao de pessoal; era retraida, timida, de pouca conversa.

Leonor nunca fora bonita ou atraente.

Era uma pessoacomum, de rosto comum, que se perdia na multidao. Na faculdade, tivera alguns colegas corn quem estudava em alguns finais de semana.Nao deixou saudades quando o curso acabou; nao ficou ligada a ninguem em especial.

Tiveraalguns flertes mas era insegura; o medo de se aproximar dos homens nunca deixara que eles fossem parte de sua vida. Gostava de ler; tinha uma atracao especial pela simplicidade e forea de Adelia Prado em Cacos Para urn Vitral"—lera aquele livro umas quatro vezes. Conhecia toda a obra de Fernando Sabino e tinha seu autografo na pagina de rosto do Encontro Marcado; sublinhara em preto uma frase inesquecivel— "matar nao é tao grave como impedir que alguern nasca; tirar sua Cmica oportunidade de ser". Dos estrangeiros seu prefeFido era Garcia Marquez; chegava a ter sonhos erOticos corn ele e al conversava em espanhol corn o autor dos Cem Anos de Solidcio. Tinha em sua mesa de cabeceira urn livro de poesias de Cecilia Meireles.

0 reined io lhe dav a agora uma sensacao de embriaguez. A cabeca rodava tonta, e ela mergulhava em vertigem—sera que vai demorar?!

Comecou a escutar o "Bolero" de Ravel—tan, tan, tan, tan, tan, tan, ran, tan, ran, tan, tan ... Momentos de sua vida iam e vinham... Alberto caminhava pela avenida, no final da tarde. Ela, como sempre, andava apressada pois nao queria pegar a fila imensa do 6nibus naquele horario. 'Sem prestar atencao, esbarrou no brag() dele e a sombrinha lhe caiu da mao ocupada corn livros e embrulhos. Alberto se abaixou, pegou a sombrinha e entregou a ela. Sentiu-se nua quando ele a olhou pedindo desculpas. A voz de Leonor saiu como um suspiro quando disse sem graca "por favor, a culpa foi minha!". Ele insistiu em ajuda-la a carregar as coisas ate o ponto do 6nibus; ela nao soube como

recusar. Quando o (MMus estava chegando ele the deu um cartao e pediu que ela telefonasse quando tivesse urn tempinho. Sentindo as pernas bambas, entrou no coletivo e nao o viu mais porque foi envolvida por corpos suados.

Chegou em casa cansada mas em completo estado de graga corn o acontecido; ao entrar foi logo sentindo o desconforto de ver o pai assistindo televisao—ele 4.

114111 estava tdo acabado! Perguntoulhe se queria corner e elerespondeu corn um "uhm!" que nAo significava muito. Nao se importou corn o velho. Foi para o quarto, deixou os livros sobre a cama e colocou a sombrinha no cabide de bolsas e cintos. A lembranca do sorriso de A lberfo deu-lhe uma sensagdo gostosa—queria ligar para ele naquela hora mas se conteve. Trocou de roupa e voltou a sala de jantar. 0 pai continuava la, na mesma posigdo—o pijama the dava um ar de descaso.

0 derrame Ihe entortara a boca, e o bigode que o fazia parecer vulgar estava branco e cal& Depois de lhe servir o jantar, lavou as vasilhas e voltou para a sala onde ficou ouvindo as noticias pelatelevisdo, enquanto tricotava uma sueter—esperava pela novela das oito e meia. 0 pai fazia urn barulho inc6modo, respirando rouco enquanto dormia; ela olhou para ele corn desprezo. A mdo dele continuava grossa e imensa e ainda acariciava o pensamento dela fazendo reviver um passado secreto que ela tentava esquecer. Teve 6dio dele. Enxugou corn forga uma lagrime no canto do olho--pensou na mde sempre triste, pensou em si mesma. Olhou novamente para o pai e desejou que ele morresse ali. Ndo queria sentir o cheiro daquele homem asqueroso. Foi para o quarto e o deixou la sozinho.

Antes que o sono chegasse pensou no encontro do final da tarde.

Ligou para Alberto no dia seguinte. Era sabado e ele atendeu o telefone corn voz de sono. Leonor sentiu que incomodava mas ele disse que ficara feliz que ela tivesse ligado. Convidou-a para sair; talvez pudessem ir tom ar algum a coisa a noite. Eta ficou impressionada corn aquele convite e aceitou antes que fosse retirado. Alberto foi busca-la em casa; foram comer uma pizza na "Cantina do Alfredo"—ele tomou cerveja preta e ela pediu uma limonada. Conversaram sobre livros que leram e viagens que sonhavam fazer. Por volta das onze horas, Alberto a deixou em casa e ao se despedir disse que queria ve-la novamente. Eta entrou em casa excitada e foi para o quarto sem mesmo ver se o pai estava na sala. Tirou a roupa e tomou urn banho frio e rapid°. Quando penteava os cabelos percebeu como eles estavam ralos; e os dentes, pareciam tdo tortos e escuros! Queria ser bonita, ou pelo menos, ver alguma coisa bonita naquele rosto irregular—ndo havia nada de interessante ali. Abriu o palet6 do pijama e olhou os seios; acariciou-os e sentiu calor por dentro—lembrou-se de !Taos grandes e grossas mas afastou aquele pen4amento.

Tirou a roupa toda, ficou nua e se olhou no espelho da porta do guarda-roupa. Pensou em Alberto e comecou a se tocar lentamente—os seios, o ventre, os pelos. Uma sensagdo enorme de prazer tomou conta dela. Ndo durou muito porque naquele momento suas mdos cram grossas e grandes e ela sentiu nojo. Imediatamente se cobriu e foi para a

cama, escondendo-se sob as cobertas.

Quis falar corn Alberto no dia seguinte mas decidiu esperar ate que ele Ihetelefonasse--ndo queria ser oferecida demais. Esperou durante a semana toda e outra, e outra, e outra... Nao teve noticias dele—estaria viajando? Sentiase frustrada porque ndo tivera o gosto de um beijo dele, como nao tivera o gosto do de Garcia Marquez. Aquele ano acabou assim, sem noticias de Alberto, sem beijos de Garcia Marquez, se, a presenca constante do pai.

Senhor Sinval morreu em janeiro, depois das festas. Ndo veio muita gente para o funeral. 0 cemiterio parecia vazio; de vez em quando alguns colegas do trabalho chegavam para os pesames.

Leonor nao se sentiu triste—nem pela morte do pai, nem pelo flamer° pequeno de pessoas ali presentes. 0 tempo passava Lento e o calor era sufocante; lembrou-se da limonada que a mde fazia e do abraco do pai—quis sair dali e ndo voltar mais.

Uma mulher ajeitou o veu que cobria aquele corpo que nao faria falta a ninguem. Caiu uma chuva forte e o calor ficou pior. 0 cheiro do lugar incomodava Leonor; o morto corn as !Taos postas esperava por urn afago que ndo veio. 0 cortejo fanebre saiu por volta das cinco e trinta da tarde. Ndo demorou a chegar ao tamulo—os que ainda estavam ali queriam Sc ver livres daquele ato de fe cristd. Leonor jogou uma for amarela sobre o caixdo antes que colocassem a placa de cimento sobre ele; os homens comp letaram a cerimonia jogando a terra ate que tudo estivesse consumado-naquele momento ela sentiu inveja deles.

Enterraram o homem, seus pecados seus vicios.

0 enterro do pai ficara para tras. JA haviam se passado oito meses e a vida moldara uma nova rotina para ela.

Leonor acordou naquela quinta-feira cedo e viu que estava chovendo--havia no ar amid° uma promessa de dia escuro e feio. Levantou-se ainda corn preguiga e foi para a cozinha. Preparou um cafe e gostou de sentir o cheiro da fumaga que vinha do coador. Uma sensagdo de completa liberdade tomou conta dela.

Wivia sozinha agora e ndo precisava mais olhar para aquele velho que era o dono do seu passado, da sua vergonha, da sua revolta. Ndo queria pensar mais nele. Vestiu urn vestido qualquer, calgou a bota corn descaso, arrumou os cabelos em coque, pegou a bolsa e a sombrinha— pensou em Alberto. Trabalhou pouco naquele dia; a cabega estava cheia de lembrangas de Alberto e a toda hora sentia o cheiro de colonia Old Spice.

Saiu depois do expediente e foi fazer umas compras—meias finas, talco e sabonete, biscoitos salgadinhos, azeitonas verdes e um queijo. Perto do caixa viu umas frutas artificiais—comprou algumas. Resolveu fazer uma extravagancia e comprou tam bem uma garrafa de vinho tinto seco. Saiu da loja e, por

32 BRAZZIL -JUNE 1998

sorte, conseguiu tomar urn taxi que acabava de hear livre; deu o endereco ao chofer.

0 homem na direcdo era simpatico, jovem ainda, e muito falante. Comentaram sobre o transito, sobre o povo na rua, sobre o tempo. Ele a olhava pelo espelho e ela se lembrou mais uma vez de Alberto. Estava frio e o motorista reclamou que trabalhara o dia todo, que estava cansado, e que daria tudo por um born banho e urn lugar quentinho. Sua voz era atraente, seus bracos fortes, e ele continuav a a olhd-la pelo espelho.

Quando estavam quase chegando, ela perguntou "voce ndo quer tomar um vinho comigo?" Ele aceitou corn naturalidade, como se esperasse pelo convite; estacionou o carro em frente ao porta° e pegou uma bolsa pequena no porta-luvas. Entraram na casa antiga e Leonor acendeu a luz da sala perguntando- I he se queria tomar urn banho enquanto ela preparava o vinho e umas coisas para eles comerem. Ele aceitou o banho e ela Ihe mostrou o caminho, entregando-lhe um a toalhalimpa. Pouco depois, o barulho da agua que caia do chuveiro a fez pensar nos bracos fortes.

Quando o homem voltou as coisas já estavam arranjadas e as frutas artificiais enfeitavam a mesa coberta por uma toalha nova. Ele estava de camiseta branca e a calca "jeans" justa mostrava suas formas. Leonor saiu da sala, dizendo-lhe que se servisse. Correu para o chuveiro, tomou urn banho quente e depois foi para o quarto; tirou da gaveta um conjunto de peps intimas cor de pessego. Pensou em colocar urn vestido leve mas se decidiu por urn robe confortdvel; na falta de um par de chinelos novos, calcou aqueles velhos e sem graca.

Voltou a sala e encontrou o convidado olhando seus velhos long plays. Ele fez urn comentario qualquer a respeito e entregou aela um copo de vinho. Fizeram urn brinde ànova amizade e ele comentou que o chuveiro estava corn problema, ndo fechava direito—se ofereceu para fazer o conserto qualquer outro dia. Disse que se chamava Gabriel e perguntou qual era o nome dela. Eta riu da coincidencia e falou que gostava de Gabriel Garcia Marquez. Ele perguntou surpreso -quern é este senhor?!" e ela achou engracado algudm chamar Garcia Marquez de senhor; respondeu apenas que era um amigo de longa data. Disse que se chamava Leonor e colocou um disco para tocar. A mdsica suave trazia uma sensacdo boa; sons de violinos e piano se misturavam de forma mdgica ... tender is the night ... 0 ambiente se tornou mais agraddvel, menos tenso.

Ele a convidou para dancar e ela aceitou.

Eles se abracaram e ela tido se lembrou de Alberto. 0 corpo de Gabriel a excitava—era musculoso e tinha cheiro born. Ele a beijou corn forca e ela tido recusou; outros beijos vieram quentes e BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

molhados. Gabriel a arrastava ao ritmo len o da musica; suas mdos acariciavam as costas de L nor.

Eta pensou nos "cem anos de soliddo". 0 disco parou de tocar e o silencio tomou conta de tudo. Os dois ficaram muito proximos, um de frente para o outro. Leonor sentia o cheiro suado e bo do parceiro. Ele abriu o robe dela tocando a uele corpo corn mdos grandes e cheias de dese o. 0 prazer tomou conta dela. A principio o toqu veio como se descobrindo segredos—bem devaga corn cuidado; depois corn forca e de urn jeito u ruto.

Quando ele segurou e beijou seus seios, pas ando sobre eles a lingua quente, mordendo de lev cada pane deles, ela se entregou a uma vertige sem fim. Leonor fechou os olhos e deixou que a uele mundo de sensaceles se misturassem As caric as; o corpo dele era forte e teso e ela sentiu como er born tocar sem medo cada parte daquele homem ii vem e sensual que se oferecia a ela. Os corp is se misturavam no sofa. Ele estava sobre ela enq anto o calor e o cheiro se faziam urn. Gabriel adorn nava corn o corpo todo e cada movimentp trazia sen acdo de puro prazer. Eta ndo queria que aquele mo ento acabasse nunca e ele parecia saber disso; n o se apressou e a foi levando para uma viagem lou a. As mdos dele passeavam pelo corpo dela, percor endo caminhos, conhecendo cada lugar e acende do o mundo de desejos inconfessados que ela esco r dera de si mesma por tantos anos. Leonor se ntiu flutuar e gritou quando atingiu o orgasmo. G briel sentiu o prazer da mulher que ele dominava seu desejo se transformou em gozo pleno. Molha o de sexo e suor, aos poucos ele foi relaxando o sorpo tenso e, finalmente, se esticou ao lado dela respirando cansado. Ficaram ali por urn tern o— ndo disseram nada. Ele se levantou de repe te e vestiu o "jeans" e a camiseta; ela vestiu o rube e amarrou as faixas na cintura. Continuavam sem dizer nada e aquele silencio machucava. L onor tomou um pouco de vinho enquanto Gabriel ca cava as meias. Num impulso ela perguntou quan o ele voltaria. 0 homem a olhou surpreso edisse "vi ltar? por que? eu so queria me divertir um pouco e :chei que foi legal. Voce tambem estava querend • isto.

Voce d um a coroa gostosinha mas a gente pa por aqui. Eu tenho uma noiva e num `to queren • • me estrepar. Minha noiva é quase uma menina tern urn pai danado de bravo. Al, de vez em quan o eu gosto de ter urn casinho corn mulheres mais v lhas e experientes". Acabou de amarrar o tenis, pe ou a bolsa e se despediu sem afeto; saiu fechando a orta corn descuido.

Leonor, enrolada no robe, se assentou d esa.

As lagrimas ndo vieram. Pensou em Albert sera que ele tambern era assim? Sentiu-se velha, feia, sem graca. Pensou no pai, nas mdos granules e grossas—sentiu nojo. 0 telefone tocava insi ente mas elando se moveu na cadeira—brincava ci m as frutas artificiais no centro da mesa—ndo pe sava em nada, ndo sentia nada.

Ficou ali, deixando o tempo passar. Final ente largou as frutas, foi para o banheiro, tomo uns vinte comprimidos, escovou os dentes, solt u os cabelos, olhou uma Oltirna vez para o espelh , foi para o quarto, tirou os chinelos velhos e sem raca, se ajeitou corn cuidado na cama, pegou o liv o de Garcia Marquez, olhou ao redor do quarto, f hou os olhos.

Ndo ouviu quando bateram a porta chamando por ela insistentemente. Urn sono profundo inha chegando e a escuriddo ndo deixava mais q e ela passeasse pelo jardim da casa da familia.

Broken Dream "Familias felizes sao todas semelhantes; cada familia infeliz é infeliz do seu jeito."

Anna Karenina by Leon Tolstoy Guilherme looked in the mirror and saw an indecent belly that insisted on showing up under his coat. He could not see the athletic body he used to have, that swimmer body he had developed through years of training at the club's swimming pool.

Todas as noites, depois do servico, Ia jam eles para o mesmo bar. Eram cinco amigos—fidis, constantes, presentes. Freqiientavam o Costelinha, urn boteco "fuleiro" mas corn uma comida otima. Como num ritual o grupo chegava, ia direto para a mesa que tinha sempre o cartdo RESERVADA. E os cinco se livravam dos paletos e das gravatas que eram colocados nas costas das cadeiras e esquecidos durante o tempo em que eles bebiam. LA vinham as loiras geladissimas acompanhadas de tiragosto--mandioquinha frita, carne de sot, ou costelinha de porco, a especialidade da casa. Ninguem se atrevia a falar em colesterol, pressdo altae coisas do genero porque bar ndo é hospital e tudo isso é bobagem—o importante é se divertir.

Mesmo que para outros pudesse parecer film e repetido, para eles o "Costela" era uma coisa sempre nova, era uma coisa muito especial, quase magica. Os cinco construiram urn pequeno mundo so deles, dentro do munddo em que viviam, para se refugiarem nele quando fosse preciso; urn mundo admit-AN/el para onde so levavam seus sonhos, suas fantasias, suas vontades etereas, sua alegria, e uma quantidade enorme de conversa fiada.

Naquele mundo era proibido falar seri°, discutir coisas que pudessem interferir na harmonia do astral.

0 corre-corre no bar ndo parava nunca e Tido, o garcom, estava sempre atento para ndo faltar nada A mesa de clientes tao "gente fina". De vez em quando urn deles aparecia corn algum conhecido; mas, existia um lema naquela fraternidade—"ndo aceitamos novos socios". Aquilo ndo era amizade nascida em mesa de bar—eles se tornaram amigos primeiro e depois foram para o bar. Tido trazia os pedidos e havia sempre um jeito de "trocar umas iddias" corn os fregueses.

0 tempo passava, os cabelos brancos apareciam, os mais escuros caiam, e os cinco amigos fidis continuavam presen33

tes e constantes, assinando o ponto no as criancas, sobre a mae dela, ou a dele, sobre urn Costelinha. Os assuntos variavam e novo filme que tinha sido lancado e que parecia sempre aparecia alguma coisa nova para muito born, ou um concerto de piano que seria se comentar—mudancas na direcao da apresentado naquele mes. 0 comentario dele era companhia, urn colega novo, uma sempre um banho de dgua fria no assanhamento decisao do governo, urn problema corn dela—"filme coisa de boboca!" ou "nao sei como o chefe, resultados de jogos voce agUenta este negocio de de futebol e por al afora. concerto!" Depois caia na cama Outras pessoas da empresa pesado, cheirando a cigarro e passavam por au, cumpricerveja; sem assunto, sem casos mentavam, tomavam urn copo .40004 para contar; urn banho a noite de cerveja e jam embora. Mas era opcional, deperulendo da os cinco ficavam Id, ate o canseira. A mulher olhava para hordrio habitual. ele desgostosa, desesperancada.

Nao se preocupavam corn Corn o cansaco da alma as mulheres. Elas eram cornpassando para as pernas, ela preensivas e ficavam em casa cam inhava devagar para o cuidando dos filhos. Estava banheiro. Quando voltava para claro para os amigos que elas o quarto, jã mais animada pelo achavam normal os maridos banho, se perfumava e arranjava sairem depois do servico para os cabelos; ele nunca notava aliviar a tensao de um dia de trabalho-- nada disso, nem mesmo se ela vestia uma camisola mesmo que, algumas vezes, fossem mais nova. Quando ela se ajeitava ao seu lado, buscando dias do que trabalho. E eles nunca carinho, querendo que o marido percebesse que enjoavam da mesma cerveja, do mesmo aquele corpo ainda estava vivo e tinha desejo, etc tira-gosto, das mesmas caras, da mesma fechava os olhos e a respiracao pesada como que mesmice. dizia "talvez numa prOxima ocasiao". E eta sentia, Nunca pararam para pensar que a corn frustracao e raiva, o cheiro da cerveja e do mulher deles era para ser amada. cigarro, seus rivais de tantos anos.

Pensavam nelas sim, quando alguem E assim jam levando a vida—manhas e tardes perguntava "e a Suzana, como vai?!" e o que passavam, e os amigos esperando a noite que marido da Suzana dizia "vai bem, vinha para levd-los ao Costelinha onde estava o obrigado!" E as Suzanas cram esqueci- prazer de se viver. das, ate que se precisasse delas. La pelas Urn dia, Guilherme encontrou-se corn velhos tantas, hora de ir embora, elas se amigos de colegio durante o almoco no Capitania, tornavam uma boa desculpa para se restaurante requintado, que ficava prOximo ao poder levantar e sair—"a Suzana vai escritOrio de um cliente com o qual faria um negocio ficar uma fera que eu 'to chegando tarde a tarde. Foi uma sensacao boa estar corn aquela hoje!" E osoutros concordavam e diziam gente; parecia que o tempo voltava para trds. que a Marta, a Aurora, a Sonia, a Julia Lembrou-se de tantas coisas que sozinho nunca se tambem iriam fear de mau humor corn lembrara. E foram repassando tudo o que tinha a demora. Inventavam esta histOria para acontecido nos tempos de escola. Urn deles eles mesmos e isto fazia parte do ritual perguntou pela Suzana e Guilherme contou que o tambem. casamento estava indo bem e que eles tinham tits Quando chegavam em casa, a filhos lindos. Quiseram sabermais; como elaestava? realidade estava Id—criancas, mulher ainda continuava aquele "mulherao" que saia sem nenhum prazer, corn ida fria arrasando por onde passava? E riam dizendo como esperando sobre o fogao. E era por isto ele dava sorte corn as mulheres. Sem perceber que eles nunca iam paracasa logo depois Guilherme comecou a falar, cheio de entusiasmo, do servico--esta cena nao era a preferida sobre a mulher. Era como voltar no tempo, estar de de nenhum deles. Um boa noite meio novo no colegio, de uniforme e esperando as sem graca, um desgosto de ver aquele meninas descerem a rampa para o recreio. Suzana mundo sem sabor e sem cheiro—só se sobressaia corn seus cabelos castanhos e cheiro de casa, de comida, de banho de compridos, aquela pele tao bonita e corn cor de crianca, e tudo corn jeito de deus-me- pecado. Ele se Perdiaem seus pensamentos quando livre. se lembrava daquele sorriso de dentes tao Guilherme andava muito cansado branquinhos e uma boca que dava vontade de daquela chatissima vida de casado que morder. comecara uns sete anos ants. Suzana Terminado o almoco, despediu-se dos exera muito boa mas tinha se acomodado colegas e foi andando para o escritorio do cliente. aquele mundo sem graca, bobo, que E pelo caminho andado ficou pensando "onde estd incomodava tanto o marido. Na hora aquela mulher corn quern cu me casei? parece que que etc chegava do bar, as criancas já foram tantos anos!" 0 coracao ficou apertado, estavam na cama; colocava a pasta e as como se estivesse perdendo aquela pessoa especial chaves sobre a cadeira ao lado do queele conhecia hatanto tempo. Sentiu umaenorme aparador, passava pela cozinha para pena de si mesmo, pena daquela menina linda, pena tom ar urn leite e dizia a mulher que ja ia de seu casamentotao falido. Deu vontade de chorar, se deitar. Ela vinhaparao quarto, puxava de correr atrds do tempo e pedir para ele nao passar uma conversa, falava sobre o dia, sobre e nao levar consigo aqueles sonhos de crianca que

cram tao bons. 0 nO na garganta !he deu a dimensao de sua dor—nem urn ar fininho passava—sO a vontade enorme de correr para casae ver se encontrava Ia a sua Suzana. 0 que ela estaria fazendo aquela hora? Talvez tomando urn banho e passando aquele cherinho de alfazema—ela sempre tivera aquele cheiro de gaveta de bebe! Pensou nas noites em que apenas dividira a cama corn ela—interessante que no comeco do casamento eles compartilhavam a cama. Quanto tempo nao a tocava?

Quanto tempo ilk) passava a mao por aquele corpo gostoso e macio? E aquela pinta na perna esquerda que era uma perdicao, estaria ainda Id esperando uma mordidinha? Sentiu vontade de correr para casa, tirar a roupa daquela mulher linda e dar urn banho de beijos naquele pedaco de mau cam inho. Sera que ela ia gostar de se afogar nos abracos guardados por tanto tempo? Urn carro buzinou chamando sua atencao e Guilherme voltou a realidade. Sentiu uma tonteira como se tivesse sido acordado de urn cochilo depois do almoco de domingo--sacudiu a cabeca para espantar aquela sensacao de prazer interrompido "que sera que estd acontecendo? acho que ficando velho mesmo!"

Chegou ao predio onde se encontraria corn o cliente. Estava urn pouco atrasado mas inventaria uma desculpa qualquer para justificar o injustificdvel.

Ficou esperando o elevador. Na parede em frente, no hall elegante, havia urn espelho e, distraido, Guilherme olhou para Id percebendo que uma barriga atrevida insistia em aparecer debaixo do paletO do terno. Nao conseguia ver mais o corpo atletico de antes, aquele corpo de nadador que desenvolvera em tantos anos de treino na piscina do clube. Seus cabelos claros, que cram o sucesso entre as meninas, agora estavam tao ralos, parecendo tao sem vida. Parou de olhar para o espelho inimigo--ele tambem tinha o direito de envelhecer, ora essa!

Mas acabou nao resistindo e deu uma Ultima olhada para conferir a elegancia, antes de se encontrar corn o cliente importante. Nao havia ninguem au i e ele queriaver se os dentes estavam limpos— so tivera a oportunidade de mastigar urn chicletes depois do almoco e nao queria dar urn sorriso comprometido quando apertasse a mao do Dr. Ferreira de Almeida. Sentiu urn mal estar tremendo diante daqueles dentes amarelos de nicotina. "Meu Deus!!! A vida resolveu fazer careta pra mim logo hoje que tenho este super contrato pra fechar!" 0 elevador abriu a porta mansamente e uma moca bonita o cumprimentou corn um sorriso de dezessete anos -boatarde, senhor!" Sentiu-se urn velho! Senhor!

Apertou a alga da pasta, sorriu um sorriso

34 BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

de canto de boca, respondeu ao cumprimento e pediu o vigesimo sexto andar. Notou que as pernas da garota eram perfeitas e que o traseiro dentro daquela saia azul-marinho pedia uma boa conferida. Mas ndo podia se entusiasmar porque o encontro corn o Dr. Ferreira de Almeida pedia muita concentracdo—a moca podia esperar urn outro dia, quando ele estivesse mais tranqUilo. Era obrigado a deixar passar uma coisa fofa daquelas, sem um gracejo sequer! Definitivamente, estava ficando velho!

Quando saiu do escritOrio do cliente, Guilherme sentiu-se satisfeito porque o resultado da transacao ultrapassara as expectativas. Pensou na mop do elevador—ela estaria la ainda? Quando a porta abriu ele viu apenas urn menino magro, de uniforme, corn gravata azulmarinho, que lhe disse "boa tarde, senhor!" Ficou no fundo do elevador e duas ou tres pessoas entraram corn ele; olhou o traseiro do ascensoristae pensou em como Deus favoreceu as mulheres corn um "derriere" tao bonito. Born que a moca no estivesse la—aqueles outros passageiros tirariam sua liberdade de uma cantada. Ficou olhando para os numeros iluminados que indicavam os andares enquanto os pensamentos corriam soltos na cabeca.

Estava fazendo calor quando deixou o predio. Foi cam inhando cansado para O estacionamento. No porta° de controle, pagou enquanto urn empregado ia buscar seu carro. Tirou o palet6 e desafrouxou o no da gravata que o sufocava. Que born poder beber uma cerveja gelada depois de uma negociacdo tao dificil" pensou ele.„Lembrou-se de Carlos que estava doente e de Daniel que viajara a servico. De qualquer forma, Eduardo e Felipe estariam no Costelinha—"serd que eles estdo passando pela mesma crise que eu?!" Abriu a porta do carro, colocou a pasta, o palet6 e a gravata no banco de tras, entrou, deu uma gorj eta ao rapaz que trouxera o carro, e se despediu corn um aceno.

Quando Guilherme chegou ao Costelinha, Eduardo e Felipe j estavam Id. Teve uma sensacdo de desdnimo e irrealidade—sentiu saudade de Suzana.

Quase voltou atrds e foi para casa. Mas decidiu que ficaria pelo menos um pouco para uma prosinha rapida.

Cumprimentou o pessoal e sentou pesado, como se, ao inves de carregar sua pasta, estivesse carregando um saco de culpa. Hs a pasta sobre a mesa e a abriu corn cuidado. Queria compartilhar BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

corn o amigos a assinatura do contrato mais sensacional que tivera em mdos. Eles se levan ram para abraca-lo e Eduardo gritou "Tido, hoje a ente tern de comemorar. Traz urn copo para o Gull rme aqui e capricha na mandioca frita e na cos ela!"

Tido, entusiasmado, mesmo sem saber o moti o da comemoracao, veio trazendo rdpido o opo embacado pelo frio do congelador e outra g rrafa de cerveja para ser aberta. Encheu os opos floreando a "mise-en-scene" e saiu para at nder outros clientes. 0 recem-chegado bebeu corn p azer; a cerveja desceu bem.

Como sempre acontecia, os amigos fal ram sobre o dia que havia sido tenso para tod s—o mercado nao estava facil! A conversa foi tom ndo rumo e Guilherme acabou se esquecends do encontro corn os colegas de escola e do espel o no predio do Dr. Ferreira de Almeida. Ndo q eria mesmo conversar sobre aquele tipo de coisa corn seus amigos naquela noite. Que diabo! as ezes aquilo era sO um ataque de menopausa masculi a— existe?!—coisas de idade do lobo. Podia d ixar estas coisas funebres para outra ocasido qu ndo estivessem completamente sem assunto.

Ld pelas nove da noite o grupo estava mai que animado e Guilherme falava sobre como con luira o neg6cio corn o cliente naquela tarde. De rep nte, entrou urn casal no bar—gente que nunca est vera au i antes. Todos olharam ao mesmo tempo pra a moca—"que mulheraco!!!"—parecia ate com inado. Para o namorado s6 sobrou um comentdr. "é menino mandado pra fazer servico de hom m!"; depois disso ele foi ignorado completament . Os dois se sentaram numa mesa perto da porta, a sim, a vista de todos que entravam, que saiam, que ficavam la. A moca era uma perfeicdo, do tipo "papai-do-cdu fez uma e jogou a forma fora"; cabelos escuros ate os ombros, olhos castan os e corn pestanas imensas; urn nariz sem defeito e uma boca que "dava vontade de levar pra cdsa", recheadinha de dentes lindos. Oh! Deus! Mull() era tentacao demais! MID dava para desgrudar os olhos. Quando ela cruzava as pernas, todos fic yam agitados e se ajeitavam na cadeira para ver se a excitacdo diminuia. E o casal nao econom ava carinhos.

Guilherme voltou a pensar na tarde em f ente ao espelho, esperando o elevador, e olhou pa a os amigos como nunca fizera a tes.

Percebeu como Eduardo e F lipe, colegas de natacdo no clube, a etas como ele, da idade dele, estava tao diferentes agora; pareciam exata ente Arillaiti corn aquela imagem que o es elho tinha Ihe mostrado naquela t rde.

Estavam apagados, acabados, ti ham engordado e o cigarro fazia part das mdos deles. E a conversa! era se pre a mesma, ndo variava! 0 que e tava acontecendo corn eles? Tomo urn grande gole de cerveja para se 1 vrar da sensacdo ruim que teimav em voltar.

A noite foi passando e Guilherme se di idia entre o antes e o agora, entre o seri° e o descompromisso, entre o medo de enfren r a realidade e a vontade de compartilhar co os amigos aquelas coisas que agoniavam seu cor. cdo.

Resolveu ir ao banheiro--tanta cerveja! Quan o se

levantou, a moca escultural de boca recheadinha de dentes brancos tambem se levantou e caminhou para o mesmo lado. 0 velho habito de conquistador veio a tona quando ficaram frente a frente esperando que os respectivos toiletes fossem desocupados. Parecia que O tempo tinha parado; ele ficou all, olhando disfarcado para as pernas I indas divididas por um joelho redondinho.

Ela fez que ndo o via e continuava a bater o pe direito no chao, acompanhando o ritmo da musica que vinha la do bar. As portas se abriram e eles entraram quase que ao mesmo tempo. Guilherme sabia que os banheiros se comunicavam de alguma forma e os sons podiam ser ouvidos. Fez urn esforco tremendo para ndo fazer o barulho natural de quando se esta apertado demais.

Foi fazendo xixi bem devagar, sentindo ate dor de ndo se aliviar corn prazer. De repente escutou, vindo do outro toilete, urn som desagradavel e conhecido, mas inesperado em se tratando daquelabeleza de mulher. Sem perceber, ele gritou, como fazia nos tempos de colegio, "6 Id em casa!!!". E comecou a rir sem parar; ndo era possivel que uma mulher linda daquelas pudesse ser tdo normal. Parou corn a repressdo e, corn grande alivio, terminou de fazer o melhor xixi da sua vida, cercado de muito barulho. Quando conseguiu parar de rir, se arrumou, deu descarga, lavou as indos e voltou para a mesa, ainda corn uma cara de quern acabara de fazer arte. A moca já estava na mesa dela corn uma expressao de raiva e vergonha, tudo misturado; conversava nervosa corn o namorado que pediu a conta logo em seguida.

Quando des sairam, Eduardo e Felipe reclamaram porque ndo tinham mais aquela coisinha linda para ficarem olhando o resto da noite. Guilhenne olhou para o casal que cam inhava para o carro e achou que aquela moca era horrivel—tinha perdido toda a graca porque ndo conseguira manter a fantasia.

Voltou-se de repente para os amigos e perguntou "por que n6s comecamos a fumar?" Eles olharam para ele sem entender o que estava acontecendo.

Voltou-se para Eduardo e perguntou "hd quanto tempo voce ndo far amor corn a sua mulher?" Eduardo parou de mastigar e franziu a testa fazendo uma cara de surpresa. Sem esperar resposta, Guilherme perguntou a Felipe "quando foi a Oltima vez que voce levou a sua mulher ao cinema?" Como se ndo quisesse ouvir as respostas, que ek já sabia quais cram, Guilherme se levantou e disse "tenho de ir agora porque a Suzana pode estar precisando de mim"; pegou suas coisas e saiu, desejando que ela estivesse realmente precisando dele.

E os amigos ficaram Id se perguntando 35

"o que deu nele?! Ficou doido ou o que?! 0 Tiao, traz mais uma e a conta porque ja 'td ficando tarde demais!"

Narua, sentindo como a noite parecia especial, Guilherme pegou o carro, Os dois chicletes na boca e mastigou corn for- 0 querendo se 1 ivrar do gosto incomodo de cerveja, cigarro, da came de porco, da raiva que estava sentindo da vida. Pensou mais uma vez na moca do banheiro e sentiu o estomago embrulhado.

Chegou em casa, abriu a . porta devagar, entrou e colocou a pasta sobre as mans u cm tam demais e tinham perdido o treino. a cadeira; as criancas ja estavam Colocou a chave sobre o aparador e caminhou dormindo. Suzana, assentada na sala, ha arrastado para a cadeira de Suzana. Eta levantou a urn livro e escutava "0 Lago do Cisne", cabeca e olhou para ele indiferente, perguntando de Tchaikovsky—ha quanto tempo eles corn voz cansada "voce vai querer jantar?" Ele nao jam a urn concerto! Ficou de pe, abanou a cabeca dizendo "nao, já comi alguma junto a porta e olhou para ela corn uma coisa antes de vir". A musica parou e eta desligou ternura imensa. Eta estava absorta no o aparelho. Disse que ia dormir e foi para o quarto.

1 ivro. Pede admird-la devagar—os Guilherme seguiu a mulher e esperou que ela cabelos ainda cram lindos, mesmo corn lhe contasse os casos do dia. Eta nao falou sobre as aqueles fios brancos, o nariz continuava criancas, nao falou sobre a mae dela ou a dele, nao o mesmo e a pele ainda muito bem falou sobre nenhum filme, sobre nenhum concerto. cuidada. 0 cheirinho de alfazema estava Arrumou os cabelos displicente, pos uma camisola pela sala toda. Quis se mover, correr qualquer e foi para a cama. Ele olhava todos os para ela e fazer uma declaracao de amor. movimentos da mulher. Ensaiou uma conversa Nao conseguia—as pernas tinham mas eta disse "esta tarde; eu estou cansada e preciso imp oitenta anos. Quis chorar, choro de dormir. Amanha a gente conversa, esta bem?!" perdao, mas nao conseguia porque tinha Ele foi ao banheiro, escovou os dentes e tomou vergonha de si mesmo. Quis andar urn banho rapido—ate estranhou que estivesse devagar e passar as maos naqueles fazendo aquilo. Depois foi para a cama e chegou cabelos brilhantes, mas nao podia porque para pert° de Suzana—aquele corpo ainda era o 41z

IIII

mesmo e aquele cheirinho era urn

convite. Pensou na pinta da perna esquerda. Suzana estava all, era Linda e era sua mulher. Chegou mais para perto dela e deu urn beijo no ombro nu; as maos nervosas foram passando pelas pernas quentes ao seu lado. Sentiu-se cheio de desejo, lembrou dos colegas de escola, esqueceu-se do espelho. Os cabelos dela se esparramavam pelo travesseiro e etc notou como eles continuavam macios. Abracou-a corn cuidado e suas maos seguraram os seios da mulher—eles continuavam firmes e desejaveis. Quando etc the beijou o pescoco eta se mexeu um pouco impaciente e falou baixinho e cheia de desanimo "Guilherme, eu estou realmente muito cansada. A gente pode deixar para uma outra ocasiao. Boa noite".

"Frutas Artificiais" and "Sonho Quebrado" are the original titles of these short stories. Their author, Adelaide Bouchardet Davis, born in Visconde do Rio Branco, Minas Gerais state, is a writer and professor of Portuguese at Denver University, Colorado, USA. You can reach her via e-mail: addavisAdu.edu

Copyright 0 Adelaide Bouchardet Davis (United States of America & Brazil) • f'•ty,,A,„

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The Northeast region, known in Brazil as the Nordeste, covers more than 18% of the country's land area and contains 45 million inhabitantsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;nearly 30% of Brazil's population. The region is divided into nine states: Bahia, Sergipe, Alagoas, Pernambuco, Paraiba, Rio Grande do Norte, Ceara, Piaui and Maranhao. The archipelago of Fernando de Noronha lies over 500 km east of Recife and was placed under the political administration of Pernambuco state in 1988.

The many attractions of the Northeast include: historical cities (Sao Luis, Olinda and Salvador); colonial villages (Alcantara, Lencois, etc); national parks (LeneOis Maranhenses, Chapada daDiamantina, Sete Cidades, etc); and the region's fascinating African heritage.

The geography of the Northeast is characterized by four divisions. The zona da mata (forest zone) covers the coastal area and extends up to 200 km inland. The forest, known as the Mata Atlantica, now exists only in tiny pocketsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the rest was destroyed to make way for sugar-cane cultivation during the colonial period.

With the exception of Teresina in Piaui state, all the major cities of the Northeast were established in this zone.

Further west, the agreste forms a transitional strip of semifertile lands, which merges into the sertc7o.

The sertc7o (backlands) is characterized by a dry and temperate climate. Droughts, sometimes lasting for many years, have been the bane of this area for many centuries. The land is commonly referred to as caatingas because the landscape is dominated by vast tracts of caatinga (a scrubby shrub). The largest towns of the sertdo are dotted along the Rio sao Francisco, which provides irrigation. The bleak and brutal life of the Sertanejo (inhabitant of the sertdo) has received literary coverage in Os Sert5es (published in English as Rebellion in the Backlands), by Euclides da Cunha, and the novel Vidas Secas (Dry Lives), by Graciliano Ramos.

The Cinema Novo films of Glauber Rocha portray violence, religious fanaticism, official corruption and hunBRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

Where the Sun Never Sets The Northeast is a land of contrasts: the very rich andhe very poor, the luscious jungle and the barren desert, the traditional and the avant-garde. In theseii ine states live close to 50 milli Ă&#x2DC;n Brazilians, one third of Bra il population. We start in Bahi, Brazil's most historic state, were the African heritage has been Kept ally') and -thriving. ger in the sertdo.

The state of Maranhao and the western margin sfPiaui state form the meio norte, a transitional zone be een the arid sertdo and the humid Amazon region.

The social problems of the Northeast include overty, underemployment, housing shortages, a decayin educational system and an absence of basic sanitati in. For example, in the state of Bahia, many towns and illages lack basic sanitation, infant mortality rates are high d half the population is illiterate. The number of unemp oyed in the state has been estimated at around 30% oft e adult population.

Superintendencia do Desenvolvimento do ordeste (SUDENE), the official government agency for velopment in the Northeast, has attempted to attract indu try and boost the economy of the region, but these efforts h ye been hampered by the lack of energy sources, transpo infrastructure, skilled labour and raw materials. Many Nordestinos (inhabitants of the Northeast) have e igrated to the Southeast and Central West in search of a livi g wage or new land for cultivation.

The economy of the zona da mata depends on the

cultivation of crops such as sugar and cacao, and on the petroleum industry which is based on the coast. The inhabitants of the agreste make their living from subsistence farming, small-scale agriculture (vegetables, fruit, cotton and coffee) and cattle ranching (beef and dairy). In the sertdo, the economy is based on cattle ranching, cotton cultivation and subsistence farming, which puts the carnaubeira, a type of palm, to a multitude of uses. The meionorte is economically reliant on babacu, another type of palm, which provides nuts and oil. The latter is converted into lubricating oil, soap, margarine and cosmetics. sao Luis has become a major center for the production of aluminum.

BAHIA Bahia is Brazil's most historic state, and has retained strong links with the African heritage of many of its inhabitants. Its capital, Salvador da Bahia, was also once the capital of colonial Brazil, from 1549 to 1763, and was the center of the sugar industry, which sustained the country's prosperity until the 18th-century decline in international sugar prices.

The state of Bahia divides into three quite distinct regions: the reconcavo, the sertdo and the litoral.

The reconcavo is a band of hot and humid lands which surrounds the Baia de Todos as Santos. The principal cities are Cachoeira, Santo Amaro, Maragojipe and Nazare, which were once sugar and tobacco centers and the source of wealth for Salvador.

The sertc7o is a vast and parched land on which a suffering people eke out a meager existence raising cattle and tilling the earth. Periodically, tremendous droughts, such as the great drought of 187779, sweep the land. Thousands of Sertanejos pile their belongings on their backs and migrate south or anywhere they can find jobs. But with the first hint of rain in the sertc7o, the Sertanejos return to renew their strong bond with this land.

The littoral south of Salvador, with beautiful, endless beaches, is a cacao-producing region, and there are important cities like Valenea, BMus and Itabuna. North of Salvador the coast is only sparsely populated with a few fishing villages.

37

The southern beaches are calm, while the northern beaches are often windy with rough surf.

Salvador is a fascinating city loaded with colonial relics—including many richly decorated churches, one for every day of the year according to popular belief.

You should also take the time to explore outside Salvador and visit the smaller cities, towns and fishing villages in Bahia, where life is unaffected by tourism and even less affected by the 20th century.

If beaches are what you want, the only difficulty is choosing.

You can go to Porto Seguro for beaches with fancy hotels and restaurants or cross the river to Arraial d'Ajuda, Trancoso and Caraiva for a hipper, less developed beach scene. To really escape civilization, you can go to the beaches up north around Conde, or to the south along the Peninsula do Mardi.

The inland regions of Bahia are less well known, but are worth a visit if you want a change from beaches. Cachoeira and Lenceis are both interesting colonial towns and Lencois provides a handy base for hiking trips in the Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina.

Travellers might also like to explore the bizarre moonscapes of the sena°, where the Sertanejos have maintained a rich culture despite the poor environment.

Capoeira Capoeira originated as an African martial art developed by slaves to fight their masters.

Capoeira was prohibited by the oppressors and banished from the senzalas (slave barracks). The slaves were forced to practice clandestinely in the forest. Later, in an attempt to disguise this dance of defiance from the authorities, Capoeira was developed into a kind of acrobatic dance. The clapping of hands and plucking of the berimbau, a stringed musical instrument that looks like a fishing rod, originally served to alert fighters to the approach of the boss and subsequently became incorporated into the dance to maintain the rhythm.

As recently as the 1920s, Capoeira was still prohibited and Salvador's police chief organized a police cavalry squad to ban Capoeira from the streets. In the 1930s, Mestre Bimba established his academy and changed the emphasis of capoeira, from its original function as a tool of insurrection, to a form of artistic expression which has become an institution in Bahia.

Today, there are two schools of capoeira: the Capoeira de Angola, led by Mestre Pastinha, and the more aggressive Capoeira 38

Regional of Mestre Bimba. The former school holds that Capoeira came from Angola; the latter believes that it was born in the plantations of Ctichoeira and other cities of the reconcavo region.

Capoeira combines the terms of the fight, the game and the dance. The movements ette always fluid and circular, the fighters always playful anettespectful. It has become very popular in recent years, anOhroughout Bahia and the rest of Brazil you will see the roda de capoeiras (semicircles of spectator-musicians who sing the initial chula before the fight and provide the percussion during the fight). In addition to the musical accompaniment from the berimbau, blows are exchanged between fighter/dancers to the at of other instruments, such ,titt caxixi, pandeiro, recofreco, agogo and atabaque.

Folk Art Bahia has someorBrazil's best artisans, who u ually have small shops or sell in he local market. You can buy their folk art in Salvador but the best place to see or purchase the real stuff is 10 the town of origin because so much of the production is regional and specialized.

The main materials used iii Bahian folk ait are leather, wood, earth, metal and fiber. Feira de Santana is known for its leatherwork: the best examples are in the city's Casa do Sera() folklore museum. Maragojipinho, Rio Real and Cachoeira produce earthenware. Caldas do Jorro, Caldas de Cip6 and Itaparica specialize in straw crafts. Rio de Contas and Muritiba have metalwork. Ilha de Mare is famous for lacework. Jequie Valenca and Feira de Santana are woodworking centers. Santo Antonio de Jesus, Rio de Contas and Monte Santo manufacture goods made of leather and silver.

Religion Much of Bahian life reeolves around the Afro-Brazilian religious cults known as Candomble. To the Christian observer, Candomble provides a radically different view of the world. It combines African traditions of music, dance and language into a system of worship and enjoyment of life in peace and harmony.

Much of Candomble is secret—it was prohibited in Bahia until 1970—but the public ceremony, conducted in the original Yoruba tongue, takes place in a terreiro. In Salvador, the Casa Branca on Avenida Vasco da Gama 463, in the Engenho Velho neighborhood, is a center for Candomble activities.

SALVADOR Salvador da Bahia, often abbreviated to Bahia by Brazilians, is the capital of Bahia state and one of Brazil's cultural highlights. This city of 2.1 million people has managed to retain its African soul and develop the best of its colonial legacy into a unique, vibrant culture. Ornate churches still stand on cobblestone streets. Festivals are spontaneous, wild, popular and frequent. Candomble services illuminate the hillsides. Capoeira and afaxe dance through the streets. The restoration of the historic center of Salvador has revitalized areas that were previously nsidered dangerous and largely off limits to tourists.

However, despite the current boom in totiism, alvador also suffers from social and economic problems, with a great number of citizens who are jobless, ho$eless, hungry, abandoned and sick. ' 41111Story According to tradition, 'on 1 November 15 All Saints' Day, the Italian navigator Amerigo Vespucci sailed into the bay, which was accordingly named Baia de Todos as Santos. In 1549, Tome de Souza came from Portugal bringing city plans, a statue, 400 soldiers and 400 settlers, including priests and prostitutes. He founded the city in a defensive location: on a clifftop facing the sea. After the first year, a city of mud and straw had been erected, and by 1550 the surrounding walls were in place to protect against attacks from hostile Indians Salvador da Bahia became the capital of the new regioak: and remained Brazil's most

important city for the next three centuries.

During its first century of existence, the city depended upon the export of sugar cane, but tobacco cultivation was later introduced and cattle ranching proved profitable in the sertilo. The export of gold and diamonds mined in the interior of Bahia (Chapada Diamantina) provided Salvador with immense wealth. The opulent baroque architecture is a testament to the prosperity of this period.

Salvador remained the seat of government until 1763 when, with the decline of the sugar-cane industry, the capital was moved to Rio. Overlooking the mouth of Baia de Todos as Santos, which is surrounded by the reconcavo, Brazil's richest sugar and tobacco lands, Bahia was colonial Brazil's economic heartland. Sugar, tobacco, sugarcane brandy and, later, gold were shipped out, whilst slaves and European luxury goods were shipped in.

After Lisbon, Salvador was the second city in the Portuguese Empire: the glory of colonial Brazil, famed for its many gold-filled churches, beautiful colonial mansions and numerous festivals. It was also renowned, as early as the 17th century, for its bawdy public life, sensuality and decadence, so much so that it became known as the Bay of All Saints... and of nearly all sins!

The first black slaves were brought from Guinea in 1538, and in 1587 historian Gabriel Soares estimated that Salvador had 12,000 whites, 8000 converted Indians and 4000 black slaves. A black man was worth six times as much as a black woman in the slave market. The number of blacks eventually increased to constitute half of the population and the traditions of Africa took root so successfully that today Salvador is called the African soul of Brazil.

In Salvador, blacks preserved their African culture more than anywhere else in the New World.

They maintained their religion and spirituality, within Catholicism. African food and music enriched the homes of both black and white, while capoeira developed among the slaves. Quilombos, runaway slave communities, terrified the landed aristocracy, and uprisings of blacks threatened the city several times.

In 1798, the city was the stage for the Conjuracao dos Alfaiates (Conspiracy of the Tailors), which intended to proclaim a Bahian republic. Although this uprising BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

was quickly quelled, the battles between those who longed for independence and those loyal to Portugal continued in the streets of Salvador for many years. It was only on 2 July 1823, with the defeat in Cabrito and Pirajd of the Portuguese troops commanded by Madeira de Melo, that the city found peace. At that time, Salvador numbered 45,000 inhabitants and was the commercial center of a vast territory.

For most of the 19th and 20th centuries the city stagnated as the agricultural economy, based on archaic arrangements for land distribution, organization of labor and production, went into uninterrupted decline.

Only recently has Salvador begun to move forward economically. New industries such as petroleum, chemicals and tourism are producing changes in the urban landscape, but the rapidly increasing population is faced with major social problems.

Orientation

Sal vddor sits at the southern tip of a V-shaped peninsula at the mouth of Baia de Todos os Santos.

The left branch of the 'V' is on Baia de Todos as Santos; the right branch faces the Atlantic Ocean, and the junction of the 'V' is the Barra district, south of the city center.

Finding your way around Salvador can be difficult. Besides the upper city and lower city, there are too many one-way, noleft turn streets that wind through Salvador's valleys and lack any coherent pattern or relationship to the rest of the existing paved world. Traffic laws are left to the discretion of drivers. Gridlock is common at rush hour. Perhaps most difficult for the visitor is the fact that street names are not regularly used by locals, and when they are, there are often so many different names for each street that the one you have in mind probably doesn't mean anything to the person you're asking to assist you—the road along the Atlantic coast, sometimes known as Avenida Presidente Vargas, has at least four aliases.

Street-name variations include: Praca 15 de Novembro is popularly known as Terreiro de Jesus.

Rua Dr. J J Seabra is popularly known as Bairro do Sapateiro (Shoemaker's Neighborhood). In early colonial days, this street was the site of a moat, the first line of defence against the Indians. Rua Francisco Muniz Barreto is also called Rua das BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

Laranjeiras (Street of Orange Trees).

Rua Indcio Accioli is also known as Boca do Lixo (Garbage Mouth)!

Rua Leovigildo de Carvalho is known as Beco do Mota.

Rua Padre N6brega is commonly referred to s Brega.

The street was originally named after a priest. It d veloped into the main drag of the red-light district, and ith time, Nobrega was shortened to Brega, which in Brazil an usage is now synonymous with brothel!

A steep bluff divides central Salvador into o parts: Cidade Alta (Upper City) and Cidade Baixa (Lo er City).

These are linked by the Plano Inclinado Goncalve (funicular railway), the Lacerda Elevator, the Plano nclinado Liberdade/Calcada and some very steep roads (1 deiras).

Cidade Alta

This is the historic section of Salvador. Built on hilly, uneven ground, the site of the original settlement was chosen to protect the new capital from Indian att cks. The most important buildings—churches, convents, government offices and houses of merchants and land wners— were constructed on the hilltops. Rational plannin was not a high priority.

Today, the colonial neighborhoods of Pe ourinho, Terreiro de Jesus and Anchieta are filled with 17t -century churches and houses. The area has been undergoihg major restoration work since 1993 which continues to • ay. The result is that Pelourinho has been transformed int • a tourist mecca, packed with restaurants, bars, art gall ries and boutiques. Although it's lost some of its charac er in the process (many of the street vendors and local resid nts have been shunted off), the area is now much safer a d tourist police are posted on just about every other come Just around the corner from Praca da Se and th Lacerda Elevator, you'll see a large cream-colored colon al building, which houses Bahiatursa, the state tourism a ency. A few blocks further is Praca Castro Alves, a majo hub for Carnaval festivities.

From here, Avenida 7 de Setembro runs so thwards (parallel to the bay) until it reaches the Atlantic S ean and the Barra district, which has many of the citj,' s to • -end and mid-range hotels and bars.

Heading east from Barra district, the main r ad along the Atlantic coast, sometimes called Avenida P esidente Vargas (at least on the maps), snakes along the sh s re all the way to Itapod.. Along the way it passes the mi le-class Atlantic suburbs and a chain of tropical beaches.

Cidade Baixa

This is Bahia's commercial and financial ce ter, and port. Busy during working days, and filled w h lunch places, the lower city is deserted and unsafe t night.

Heading north, away from the ocean and along the bay, you pass the port and the ferry terminal for Ilha de Itaparica, and continue to the bay beaches of Boa Viagem an Ribeira (very lively on weekends). These are poor suburbs long the bay and the further you go from the center, the g eater the poverty. Watch for the incredible architecture of the algados, which are similar to favelas, but built on the bay.

CIA, the Centro Industrial de Aratu, is three times the size of Salvador and sprawls around the bay of Aratu, which empties into Baia de Todos as Santos. It's the first rationally planned industrial park in Brazil and over 100 firrns operate there.

Information Tourist Offices

There is an ongoing feud between Emtursa, the tourist authority for the city of Salvador, and Bahiatursa, the state tourist organization. As a result, neither authority s keen to tell travellers about information available from th ir counterpart.

Emtursa's main office (Tel.: 243-6555) is at argo do Pelourinho 12, and there's a small information p st inside the Museu da Cidade across the street, open T esday to Saturday from 10 am to 6 pm.

The main tourist office of Bahiatursa (Tel.: 2 1-4333) is in Palacio Rio Branco, Rua Chile 2. The offic is open

daily from 8 am to 6 pm. The staff are helpful and provide advice on accommodation, events, and where and when to see capoeira and Candomble. The notice board inside the office has messages to help you find friends, rent houses and boats, buy guidebooks and even overseas airline tickets.

There are also Bahiatursa offices at Rua Francisco Muniz Barreto 12, Pelourinho (Tel.: 321-2463), open daily from 8 am to 7 pm; Praca Azevedo Fernandes, Largo do Barra (Tel.: 2473195), open Monday to Saturday from 8 am to 7 pm; Mercado Modelo (Tel.: 241-0242), open from 8 am to 6 pm Monday to Saturday; the rodoviciria (Tel.: 358-0871), open daily from 9 am to 9 pm; and the airport (Tel.: 204-1244), open daily from 8.30 am to 10 pm.

Bahiatursa operates an alternative accommodation service to locate rooms in private houses and the like during Carnaval and summer holidays. This can be an excellent way to find cheap rooms. Information on travel throughout the state of Bahia is also available, but don't expect much detail.

For general tourist information or help, you can try dialing Tel. 131 for a service called Disque Turismo (Dial Tourism).

Gay & Lesbian

Information is available from Centro Cultura (Tridngulo Rosa; Tel. 243-4903), Rua do Sodre 45, which is close to the Museu de Arte Sacra da Bahia. The center publishes an entertainment guide to Salvador's gay scene, Guia para Gays, which costs $4.

You can also contact the center for information on HIV/AIDS. Money

The main branch of Banco do Brasil is at Avenida Estados Unidos 561, in Cidade Baixa.

Other useful branches of this bank are on Terreiro de Jesus, Pelou, rinho; on Avenida Miguel Bournier, Barra; and at the airport.

Banco Econ6mico also has a handy branch at Rua Alfredo Brito 17, Pelourinho.

Currently, street money changers aren't the slightest bit interested in foreign currencies.

This situation may change, but it's not advisable to change money on the street at any time.

There's an American Express/Kontik-Frangtur SA office (Tel.: 242-0433) in the Cidade Baixa, at Rua da Argentina 1, which holds mail for travellers.

It's open Monday to Friday from 8 am to 6 pm, but the mail office often closes for lunch.

39

Post & Telephone The central post office is in Cidade Baixa, on Praca da Inglaterra. There are also post offices at Rua Alfredo de Brito 43, Pelourinho; at the airport; and at the rodoviciria. Watch outfor price hikes and make sure items are franked.

Foreign Consulates The following countries maintain constilates in Salvador: France Travessa Francisco Goncalyes I, Comercio (Tel.: 241-0168).

Germany Rua Lucaia 281, salas 204-6, Rio Vermelho (Tel: 247-7106) UK Avenida Estadoi Unidos 4, salas 1109-1113, Comercio (Tel.: 243-9222). , USA Avenida Antonio Carlos Magalhaes, Edificio Cidadela Center 1, sala 410, Pituba (Tel.: 358-9166). Open Monday to Friday from 9 to 1 I am and 2 to 4 pm.

Visa Extensions For visa extensions, the Policia Federal (Tel.: 321-6363) is at Rua Oscar Pontes, Agua de.

Meninos s/n (no number), Comercio. Take a 'Calcada' bus from the Avenida da Franca bus stop at the base of the Lacerda Elevator, and get off at the Mercado Popular. Walk back about 100 meters towards the city center and turn right. You'll see the blue and grey Policia Federal building at the end of the street, near the docks.

Bookshop Livraria Brenda°, at Rua Rui Barbosa 15B, is a huge secondhand bookstorewith a large range of foreign-language books to buy or exchange.

Maps & Guidebooks Most news agencies have maps on sale—Planta Turistica de Salvador is ,useable, and Emtursa sells a handy small map, Salvador—Mapa de Bolso. Bahiatursa has a free map and services guide to Pelourinho, and a monthly guide to cultural events, Bahia Eventos & Servicos. The Fundacao Cultural puts out a similar, but more detailed guide with reviews, called Agenda Cultural, available at Bahiatursa offices.

Bahiatursa also publishes a glossy, detailed guide once a year, Guia Turistico Bahia, which has useful listings. Most tourist offices and hotels have copies of Itinerario, a free monthly listing of cultural events in Salvador.

The weekly magazine Veja also publishes a regular supplement containing excellent articles and listings for the latest cultural events in Bahia.

40

Business Hours In Salvador, shopkeepers often close for lunch from noon to 3 pm. Work has a different flavor: slow, relaxed and seemingly nonchalant.

The slow pace often frustrates and irritates visitors, but if you can reset your internal clock and not get uptight or unsettled, you are likely to be rewarded with many kindnesses and surprises.

Dangers & Annoyance Salvador has a reputation for theft and muggings, and tourists clearly make easy targets. Paranoia is counterproductive, but you should be aware of the dangers and understand what you can do to minimize problems.

The following are some general points to remember when visiting Salvador: dress down; take only enough money with you for your outing; carry only a photocopy of your passport; and don't carry a camera outside Pelourinho.

Look at a map for basic orientation before you set out to see the sights. Although tourist police maintain a highly visible presence in the center of Salvador, particularly Pelourinho, this does not apply in other areas. The Lacerda Elevator is renowned for crime, especially at night around the base station, and pickpocketing is common on buses and in crowded places. Don't hesitate to use taxis during the day and especially after dusk.

On the beaches, keep a close eye on juvenile thieves, often referred to as capitiies d'areia (captains of the sand), who are quick to make off with unguarded possessions.

During Carnaval, tourist authorities highly recommend that tourists form small groups and avoid deserted places, especially narrow alleyways.

Emergency Useful numbers include: Disque Turismo (dial tourism) Tel.: 131; Pronto Socorro (first aid) Tel.: 192; and Policia Civil (police) Tel.: 197. There are several police posts in the city center—for example, near the bus stop on Praca da Se. In the same area, there are tourist police (identified by an armband) on patrol.

Things to See & Do Historic Salvador is easy to see on foot, and you should plan on spending a couple of days wandering among the splendid 16th and 17th-century churches, homes and museums. One good approach is to ramble through the old city in the morning, head out to the beaches in the afternoon, and devote the evening to music, dance or Candomble.

The most important sections of Salvador's colonial quarter extend from Praca Castro Alves along Ruas Chile and da Misericordia to Praca da Se and Terreiro de Jesus, and then continue down through Largo do Pelourinho and up the hill to Largo do Carmo.

Catedral Basilica Starting at the Praca da Se, walk a block to the Terreiro de Jesus (Praca 15 de Novembro on many maps). The biggest church on the plaza is the Cathedral of Bahia,.wh ich served as a Jesuit center until the Jesuits were expelled from Brazilin 1759. The cathedral was built between 1657 and 1672, and its walls are covered with Lioz marble which served as ballast for returning merchant ships. Many consider this the city's most beautiful church. The interior has many segmented areas and the emphasis is on verticality— raise your eyes to admire the superb ceiling. Entrance costs $1. The cathedral is open from 8 to 11 am and 3 to 6 pm, Monday to Saturday, and from 5 to 6.30 pm on Sunday.

Museu Afro-Brasileiro The Antiga Faculdade de Medicina (Old Medical Faculty) houses the Afro-Brazilian Museum, with its small but excellent collection of orixas from both Africa and Bahia.

There is a surprising amount of African art, ranging from pottery to woodwork, as well as superb ceremonial Candornble apparel. Other highlights include wooden panels representing Oxum (an orixa revered as the goddess of beauty) which were carved by Caryl* a famous Argentine artist who has lived in Salvador for many years. Entrance costs $0.50 and the museum ( Tel.: 321-0383) is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9 am to 5 pm.

In the basement of the same building is the Museu deArqueologin e Etnologia (Archaeology & Ethnology Museum), which is open Monday to Friday from 9 am to noon and 2 to 5 pm.

Igreja SAo Francisco Defying the teachings and vows of poverty of its namesake, this baroque church, east of Praca da Se, is crammed with displays of wealth and splendor. Gold leaf is used like wallpaper. There's an 80-kg silver chandelier and imported azulejos (Portuguese ceramic tiles).

Forced to build their masters' church and yet prohibited from practicing their own religion (Candomble terreiros were hidden and kept far from town), the African slave artisans responded through their work: the faces of the cherubs are distorted, some angels are endowed with huge sex organs, some appear pregnant. Most of these creative acts were chastely covered by 20thcentury sacristans. Traditionally blacks were seated in far comers of the church without a view of the altar.

Notice the polychrome figure of Sao Pedro de Alcantara by Manoel Mack) da Costa. The artist, like his subject, was suffering from tuberculosis. He made one side ofthe saint's face more ashen than the other so that Sao Pedro appears more ill as you walk past him. Jose Joaquim da Rocha painted the hallway ceiling using perspective technique, which was considered a novelty at the time.

The poor come to Igreja Sau Francisco on Tuesday to venerate Santo Ant6nio and receive bread.

The Candomblistas respect this church's saints and come to pray both here and in Igreja Nosso Senhor do Bonfim.

Depending on restoration work, opening hours are Monday to Saturday from 7.30 to 11.30 am and 2 to 6 pm, and Sunday from 7 am to noon.

To be continued.

Excerpts from Brazil A Thaw! Survival Kit 3rd edition,

by Andrew Draffen, Chris McAsey, Leonardo Pinheiro, and Robyn Jones.

For more information call Lonely Planet: (800) 275-8555.

Copyright 1996 Lonely Planet Publications.

Used by permission.

BRA77IL JUNE 1998

•

11 great works of music reflect and reveal be, in lesser h nds, impersonal instruments. their composers. We need no biography to According , when we listen to Gismonti we meet his tell us that the personality and environ experiences an are seized by phrases or orchestral voicings ment of Bach differed from that of that wholly ex ress faith, exultation, or hopeless longing. ebussy, or that the habits, thoughts, and We are grippe by a turn of phrase or a rhythmic figure that conjures t e festive mood of samba, a Carnavalfrevo, desires of John Cage were different from those of VillaLobos. The extraordinary piece of music has not been or the melanch â&#x20AC;˘ ly of the serteio (backlands). We are awed written which did not reveal something of its composer, by melodic lin s and splashes of tone color that capture the dignity, grl ndeur, and energy of the Amazon. That something of his experiences, personality, and attitude toward life. When a composer has so clearly indicated his Egberto Gism nti has the talent, technique, and artistic maturity to do: lmost anything he wants is apparent from instincts, we can surely say we know something about the scope of his musical exhim. Still, it is extremely difplorations, which range from ficult to describe the extraorsolos and duets to jazz endinary Egberto Gismonti. sembles and from film and A sage figure in Brazilian ballet scores to full orchesmusic with an intense contral works. cern for questions of color and Gismonti is one of those sonority, Gismonti's techcomparatively rare artists nique is as significant as that who can claim to have which he knows by nature, There seem to be no horizons for achieved commercial success and his genius rests primarily composer and multi-instrumentalist without any sacrifice of muupon his ability to use his natuEgberto Gismonti as he crosses sical integrity. Each new reral gifts. His virtuosity as well another threshold with his latest cording has brought the unas the remarkable innovations release, Meeting Point. foreseen, something a little he has made to enhance the beyond the edge of our hearexpressive capabilities of the BRUCE OILMAN ing. But as the range of our guitar are well known, and own experiences widen, so it these kinds of breakthroughs seems that Egberto Gismoncan only come about as a reti's breadth widens so that sult of a player's compulsion we understand his music and ourselves better. His work to express something which was heretofore not considoverall possess es an enduring vitality, a quality called ered part of the technical and or emotional spectrum of the universality, a d will be understood and appreciated for instrument. Gismonti is a multi-instrumentalist (piano, generations to come. It follows that a man who can touch cello, guitars, vocals, percussion, flute, the orchestra) so many in so large a range of emotional experience must who can coax incomparable loveliness from what would

AD

EG =

himself have a full life.

Gismonti's mother was born in Catania, Sicily. His father was born in Beirut, Lebanon. Egberto Gismonti was born in December 1947 in the small town of Carmo in Rio de Janeiro state. It was a musical family and by the . age of six Egberto was studying piano at Conservatorio Brasileiro de MUsica. After 15 years of studying the classical repertoire in Brazil, the young virtuoso went to Paris to immerse himself in modern music. He was accepted as a student by composer Jean Barraque, a disciple of Anton Webern and Schoenberg. Gismonti also studied with the foremost musical analyst of this century, Nadia Boulanger (1887-1979), a magnet who drew most of the young composers of the time including Aaron Copland, Astor Piazzolla, and Philip Glass to Paris to study with her. Perhaps the greatest teacher of her day, Mme. Boulanger encouraged Gismonti to write the collective Brazilian experience into his music.

When Gismonti returned to Brazil, he became absorbed in choro and taught himself how to play guitar by listening to the solo recordings of Baden Powell and by transcribing sections of Bach's Well-Tempered Clavier.

Accustomed to the wider range of the piano and constricted by the conventional six string instrument, Gismonti designed guitars with 8, 10, 12, and 14 strings, thereby expanding the intervalic and harmonic potential of the instrument. Approaching the fretboard as if it were a keyboard, Gismonti gives listeners the impression that there is more than a single guitar player. Gismonti's sojourn in the Xingu region of the Amazon basin with the Yualapeti Indian tribe and his relationship with Yualapeti shaman, Sapain, an experience that has had lasting affects on Gismonti's approach to life and music, is well documented musically in tunes like "Yualapeti" and "Sapain" CIM and in the recordings Dan cas das Cabecas (Dances of the Heads), Sol de Meio Dia (Mid-day Sun), which he dedi-

cated to the Xingu, and Duas Vozes (Two Voices).

The artistic career of Egberto Gismonti spans three decades, its major phases distinguished by the company he recorded for, the ensemble format he wrote for, and the players he worked with. Two of Gismonti's quintessential ensembles from the late 1970's and early 1980's were his Brazilian group Academia de Dancas: Mauro Senise (saxophone and flutes), Zeca Assumpcdo (bass) and Nene (drums and percussion); and the trio with bassist Charlie Haden and saxophonist Jan Garbarek. A casual listening to the harmonic language and instrumental textures of "Palhaco" from the Magic° recording, or to the ritardando at the conclusion of "Loro" from the double album Sanfona/ Solo, will convince even the most indiscriminate ears that these ensembles were thoroughly integrated units comprised of outstanding musicians who, although playing from their own powerful centers, spoke with one voice.

Interestingly, in concert the ending of "Loro" was often performed by Academia de Dancas accelerando.

With the release of Meeting Point, Mestre Gismonti has crossed the threshold that was anticipated with his 1993 release Miisica de Sobrevivencia (Music of Survival). Binding together philosophy, knowledge, passion, and humor, Meeting Point is an orchestral work that juxtaposes dramatically dense textures with quiet passages of austere beauty and clarity. It is a work that empowers the listener to detach from the commonplace and see himself as part of universal life. The string writing is intense and lyrical, percussion and woodwind parts pointed and impetuous, the brass is aggressive, bringing to mind the work of both Stravinsky and Edgar Varese. Yet the music is beautiful, sometimes extraordinarily so.

For the recording of Meeting Point, Gismonti persuaded Manfred Eicher of ECM to build a special studio in Vilnius, Lithuania, specifically so the composer could work with the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra, an • exhilarating ensemble that displays awesome !AM' • • • • 11 • • • II II • • • • • • ■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■ • • • • • • • fearlessness in the presence of challenging new • music. The seven pieces for piano and orchestra Selected Discography: • convey the composer's concern for a peaceful • • • • co-existence and also pay homage to sixteenth Title Label Release • century Italian composer Don Carlo Gesualdo, • • to master of modern music Igor Stravinsky, and ECM 1997 • Meeting Point •• to the French poet Arthur Rimbaud. Harry ZigZag ECM 1996 • Zeitlin's arresting "black and white" cover photo Mzisica de Sobrevivencia ECM 1993 • adds more impassioned humility with a shot that Infancia ECM 1991 • Danca dos Escravos • parallels his contribution to Mzisica de ECM 1989 • EMI 1988 ▪• Sobrevivencia. In many ways Zeitlin's photos • Feixe de Luz EMI 1987 • Trem Caipira • are reminiscent of works by American Ansel Duos Vozes ECM 1985 • Adams. Without a doubt, Meeting Point unveils • Sanfona/Solo ECM 1981 ▪ • Folk Songs ECM • in the refined brilliance of its orchestration the 1981 • true musical value and genuine intuition of a Mcigico ECM 1980 • master. There seem to be no horizons for Egberto Solo ECM 1979 • Sol do Meio Dia • Gismonti.

ECM 1978 • ECM 1977 Before his USA/Canada tour Mestre Gismonti • Dan cas das Cabecas • ▪• had to prepare scores and rehearse not only his Selected recordings as sideman, composer, arranger, producer, or con- • trio but also three different Brazilian orchestras ductor: • for eight concerts at home. In addition, he was • preparing for three chamber orchestra concerts Leader/Group Title Label Release • Daniel Taubkin • in Barcelona, Spain. This schedule kept our Brazsil Blue Jackel 1998 • Raiz de Pedra • interview brief, yet it allowed time enough to Diario de Bordo Enja 1996 1• Os Paralamas •• reveal something of the personality and attitude do Sucesso Severino EMI 1994 • • toward life of this master of Brazilian music.

Robertinho Silva Speak No Evil Milestone 1991 • • Brazzil—Mestre, can you tell me a little Maria Bethania Canto do Paje • Verve 1990 • about your orchestral performances in Brazil • Nand° Cameiro Violâo Carmo 1983 • • prior to your tour in the United States and Nana Vasconcelos Saudades ECM 1979 • Canada?

Paul Horn Altura do Sol Columbia 1976 • • Egberto—Yes, this will be the second time ,• - wow a••• ■ •• MMMMMMMMM ••••••••••••• • ▪ that I'll be doing an orchestral tour in Brazil. As BRAZZIL -JUNE 1998

on the first tour, the sponsor is Banco do Brasil. The concerts have a dual purpose: first, to play the music; and second, to present to the Brazilian people the "European instrument" (the orchestra) playing Brazilian music. As you know, Brazilian culture is very open and full of different influences, but symphonic music is not really popular and is rarely heard on the radio and TV stations.

Before trying to communicate any ideas I'm going to concentrate'on giving my audience the opportunity to get to know a little more about Brazilian music through the symphony orchestra.

"ForrobodO" a ong others.

Brazzil—Do you feel that it is important to establish a Brazilian symphonic repertoire distinct and separate from the European tradition?

Egberto—It's important to develop Brazilian music

Brazzil—A e you planning to record more of your symphonic rep rtoire with Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra?

Egberto—S ur complicity during the first close con-

in general, but especially with regard to the symphony orchestra. I have a large interest in Brazilian culture, and I have been preoccupied with its development for a long time. To the world, Brazil represents a real mixing of races. I'm not talking about living together but about breeding together—Brazilians, Indians, Europeans, Africans. Because of this merging we are closer to the broader picture of life and to a more aesthetic horizon.

tact gave me a lot of hope for new projects. Any new project with th m, however, will need the "understanding" of ECM o any other company.

Egberto— ot at all. This is a very high level symphonic orchestra full of tradition. They had no difficulty reading the mt,sic at all. They received the music two months before he recording dates. I have no idea how long they spent rehearsing, but I'm emphatic about their performance.

Brazzil—H aring "Frevo" in an orchestral format is an incredib e experience. Have you orchestrated other earlier c mpositions?

Egberto—I have already orchestrated "Infancia" and

Brazzil—Y u were once offered a substantial contract with a rec rd company in the United States. Why did you turn it down?

Egberto— es, Atlantic Records in 1975 or '76, when

Brazzil—Is there a future for orchestral music today outside the film industry?

Egberto—I have never used the orchestra for any of

Nesuhi Ertegun one of the founder/owners, was president of the company. The main problem was making a decision between Atlanti 's very substantial contract versus ECM's very artistic pu sose. As you know, I decided for ECM.

my film scores. On the other hand, I have written many pieces for orchestras all over the world. Actually, according to my information and cultural point of view, the orchestra has no relation to the film industry. It is possible to see these two "media" or "languages" living together, but they are completely independent.

Brazzil—In 1984 you started the Carmo record label to record more experimental works and to provide a record ompany for Brazilian musicians who had few oppor unities to be recorded. Is the Carmo record label sti I active?

Egberto—Y s, Carmo is still active. The main prob-

Brazzil—Have you been writing any string quartets?

Egberto—Yes, and I'm doing various chamber or-

lem has beeft fin sing a way to survive with all the German taxes. That's th reason we have released so few albums.

chestra compositions. The Emerson String Quartet has five pieces called Misica para Quarteto de Cordas and has been working on them for the past two years. The Elektra String Quartet from London has already performed three of my string quartets.

Brazzil—Are you still planning to record the poems of Manoel de Barros with orchestral accompaniment?

Egberto—Yes, the music is already written and the

actress Cassia Kiss is preparing her part. We have plans to perform the premiere in Portugal next September with the Orquestra Metropolitana de Lisboa conducted by Mr. Miguel Graca Moura.

Brazzil—Would you like to conduct the orchestra?

Egberto—As you know, I'm a composer, and I still

feel the need to develop myself. I have been writing without stopping. Also, I know what it means to be conductor. Because of that, I would have to say that I'm not prepared.

Brazzil—M ny ballet companies in Brazil have commissioned our work. What about North American and Europ an companies?

Egberto—B side the many Brazilian companies, I

have written w rks for Tans-Forum, Cologne's Opera Ballet, Laura Dan Dancers and Musicians, and the Tubing Dancers. I live to write for ballet and I hope to get more and more ommissions.

Brazzil—Y u have written in so many different genres. You tra el, perform, and record so much. How do you find the time for everything?

Egberto—I ave been working professionally for 30

years. When yo divide the number of records, concerts, and film scores y this number, it appears more manageable.

Brazzil—W at inspires you?

Egberto—A ain, I must go back to the Brazilian

culture. This is t e basic fountain or source that drives my music.

Brazzil—Your work before ECM seems like one stage in your career, and the ECM recordings up to Meeting Point another stage. Do you feel that Meeting Point marks the beginning of a new stage in your recording career?

Egberto—Maybe. This is a difficult question. I'm not

Brazzil—Ar there any plans to publish your music?

Egberto—A tually there was a songbook released a

able to talk about the future. I would prefer to say that Meeting Point represents one more window on my music.

Brazzil—I k ow that you analyzed modern composers with Na ia Boulanger, but what did you study with Jean Barr. que?

Egberto—I tudied twelve-tone music with Mr.

Brazzil—Why did you decide on Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra?

Egberto—They have a fresh feeling, thorough tech-

few years ago i Europe. At this time I'm studying the possibility of pu mg on the Web, for free, all scores— including the or hestral, chamber music, and solos.

nique, an open heart for the music of different cultures, plus a certain humility in the face of demanding new music.

Barraque. He s owed me the vertical and horizontal dimensions of s rial music and the various ways to go through them. A er my studies, I came back to Brazil and realized my cult re's distance from twelve-tone music.

Brazzil—Did they have any difficulty reading the music?

Brazzil—Yoi play an 8, 10, 12, and 14-string guitar. Why so ma y strings?

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

43

Egberto—Basically, I'm a piano player that plays guitar.

Because of the piano's range I have tuned my ears to bigger intervals than the guitar's intervals. That's the main reason I use more strings. The tunings are different for each guitar, but all of them have high strings on the 7th and 9th.

Brazzil—Do you feel that choro is now an outdated genre?

Egberto—Choro represents the foundation of our music.

To play, to understand, to be, to think Brazilian music, everyone must cross by the concept and the music of chow.

Brazzil—You have recorded the music of Villa-Lobos.

Why not Pixinguinha?

Egberto—I have been thinking about exactly that for a long time. This could be my next CD project.

Brazzil—Mestre, the Duo Assad and jazz trumpet player Wallace Roney, among so many others, have recorded your music. Are there recordings of your compositions by other musicians that you particularly like or dislike?

Egberto—There are a lot of good versions of my music by different musicians. I'm very open to new experiences, and used to be very attentive to all these different interpretations.

Gil Goldstein and group did a beautiful "Loro." John McLaughlin and Paco De Lucia a beautiful gbetla Gistmnti "Frevo." Marcos Pereira and Ulisses fbitefin Point Rocha recorded "Infancia" and "Loro." Leny Andrade, "Prum Samba." Elis Regina, "Sonho." Wayne Shorter and also Airto Moreira recorded "Café." Marlui Miranda did "Calipso." Hermeto Pascoal and Flora Purim, "Sonho." Quaternaglia, "Fora)." There are so many friends developing my music that I prefer to thank everyone.

Brazzil—The album you made with Paul Horn, Altura do Sol, was produced by Teo Macero, who produced many recordings by Miles Davis. Ron Carter, who was a member of the famous Miles quintet, was also on the date. And it was recorded on Columbia, the label Miles recorded for. Did you ever have the desire to play with Miles?

Egberto—As a Brazilian, living in Rio de Janeiro, involved with Brazilian culture, playing with Brazilian musicians most of the time, I had no time to dream of playing with Miles. But I always got good vibrations and had really good experiences from playing with Ron Carter, Paul Horn, Wayne Shorter, Charlie Haden, Herbie Hancock, and other North American musicians. For sure, with Miles, the experience would have been equally enjoyable.

Brazzil—In July 1989 you played the International Jazz Festival of Montreal with Charlie Haden. Will there be a CD released of the concert?

Egberto—The negotiations between our labels have been very difficult. I love this concert and have my own homemade CD from that date.

Brazzil—Is the group Academia de Dancas part of the past or would you consider working with this ensemble and in this format again?

Egberto—Not in the same format or with the same musicians. Life is change, music is change, desire is change.

Brazzil—Can you tell me a little about the chemistry between the players of the trio and the music you will be playing when you come to California?

Egberto—I'll leave that for you to write about.

Bruce Gilman, music editor for Brazzil, received his Masters degree in music from California Institute of the Arts. He leads the Brazilian jazz ensemble Axe and plays cuica for escola de samba MILA. You can reach him through his e-mail: cuica@interworld.net

Gramatica Expositiva do Chao

by Manoel de Barros (pages 179-181)

The Expositive Grammar of the Floor

Todas as coisas cujos valores podem ser Disputados no cuspe a distancia servem para poesia homem que possui urn pente e uma drvore Serve para poesia As coisas que nao levam a nada tern grande importancia Cada coisa ordinaria é elemento de estima Tudo aquilo que nos leva coisa nenhuma E que voce nao pode vender no mercado Como, por exemplo, o coraçao verde dos passaros, Serve para poesia Tudo aquilo que a nossa civilizacao rejeita, Pisa e mija em cima, serve para poesia Pessoas desimportantes dao pra poesia, qualquer pessoa ou escada Tudo que explique a lagartixa de esteira E a laminacao de sabias muito importante para a poesia Terreno de 10 x 20, sujo de mato—os quenele gorgeiam: Detritos semoventes, latas servem para poesia As coisas jogadas fora tern grande importancia— Como urn homem jogado fora Alias é tambem objeto de poesia Saber qual o periodo medio que urn homem jogado fora Podepermanecer na terra sem nascerem Em sua boca as raizes da escdria 0 que é born para o lixo é born para a poesia As coisas que nao pretendem, como por exemplo: Pedras que cheiram dgua, homens que atravessam Periodos de drvore, se prestam para poesia As coisas sem importancia sao bens de poesia Cada coisa sem prestimo tern seu lugar na poesia ou na geral

Anything that can be won or lost At a who-spits-the furthest contest is good or poetry A man who owns a comb and a tree Is good for poetry Things that lead to nothing at all are highly important Each ordinary thing is an element of esteem Everything that leads to nothing at all, And that you cannot sell at the market Such as, for instance, the green heart of birds, Is good for poetry Everything that our civilization rejects, Tramples and pisses on, is good for poetry Ordinary people are good for poetry, any one person, or ladder Everything that can explain the small belt-lizards And the rolling of thrushes, is very important for poetry A 10 x 20-yard plot of land, full of weeds—whatever warbles on them: Self-moving debris, cans, is good for poetry Discarded things are very important—like a discarded man By the way, it is also a matter of poetry To know the average period during which adiscarded man Can remain on the earth without Having scum roots growing out of his mouth What is good for garbage is good for poetry Things that have no claims, such as for instance: Stones that smell the water, men who go through Periods as trees, are good for poetry Things with no importance are poetic assets Everything that is useless has its place in poetry or in the bleachers

o

INTERNET The official Gismonti Website is at: http://ines.gmapc.org/limbo/fanzine/gismonti/ Egberto's discography is vast, both as leader and sideman.

Thus, I have included only a handful of my personal favorites.

The following Websites have more comprehensive discographies: http://www.rojac.co.at/rojac/gismonti http://www.ein.it/mus/gismonti.htm http://www.ejn.it/mus/gismonti.htm#discography Additionally, there is a terrific song cross reference at: http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Venue/3249/ gisrnonti.htm BRAZZIL -JUNE 1998

Beaut and the Beat Bahia has a new muse. Banda Eva sells one million CDs and projects Ivete Sangalo as the new rising star in axe music. Ivete pursues her destiny of muse maintaining her form.

KIRSTEN WEINOLDT When, at the end of the last decade, she opened for Geraldo Azevedo in Centro Cultural JoAo Gilberto, in Salvador, state of Bahia, it probably did not occur to the adolescent Ivete that eight years later she would come to be considered the new star of are..

Ivete Sangalo, whose full name is Ivete Maria Dias de Sangalo, started her career at 15 influenced by Elis Regina. It was only in '93 that she got up on a trio eMtrico to sing professionally During that period, with her influence by Elis, her total preferenc was for MPB (Brazilian popular music), blues, and soul, she did ot trade Gilberto Gil and Cassiano for any other composer.

Music has always been part of lye e's life. At 15, ruffling feathers at Juvenile Court, she already sa gin bars and night clubs in Salvador where she arrived still in in ncy with her family. At a show in Bar Canoa at the Hotel M ridien, she met Jonga, director of Bloco Eva and percussionist or Companhia Click, the group from which sprang Daniela Mer rYâ&#x20AC;˘ "He was forming Banda Eva and in ited me to be the vocalist", she remembers. "Even though I ha already won the Trofeu Caymmi (the principal prize of Bahia music) as a promising newcomer, I was scared at the invitation because until then I was just a reveler of Carnaval, having never een on a Trio Eletrico, * not even as a fan."

1 Fact is that in mid 1993 she started er career as vocalist of Banda Eva. After several rehearals, so e showsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;one of which in Brasilia in the stadium of the Acade a de Tenis. Finally, the following year, she made her debut at C rnaval. Now she works side by side with her husband, Alexand e Santos,Lins, who is a member of the band.

"My first Carnaval was not in Salvai or, but in Ella's."

After this she began participating ii Micaretas in front of alternative groups, and little by little, sh became known.

"We recorded our first CD for Sony, hich was not released.

But the song "Adeus Bye Bye" was a s ccess. Maria Bethania sang it in a show."

Soon after, the band recorded an inde endent CD, which was distributed by PolyGram.

"With the explosion of songs like "Flo es" (Flowers) and "Aro Paixdo", (Hello, Passion), we came to the nd of our contract with the recording company. From the third D we began to show profit. That and the following sold more an 100,000 copies."

The same happened this year. The I D recorded right after Carnaval in the green area of Othon P lace in Salvador with participation by an audience of 5,000 peo le, was responsible for that, exposing yet again the band and its ocalist.

BRAZZIL -JUNE 1998

45

"This work was done with much care and professionalism. In two nights of total communion with the audience, we were able to show with all our energy a mixture made of pop and Bahian rhythms."

The result of this alchemy is a million copies sold of Ao Vivo, (Live) in six months.

"I'm sure that whoever goes into a store and buys the CD, takes home every ingredient of the show from the atmosphere to the great repertoire," affirms the singer, also acclaimed for her longlined beauty.

The album reunited Banda Eva's major successes. "Flores" and "Alo Paixao" as well as "Levada Louca" (Crazy Mischief).

"There is also our version of "Quando Eu Te Vejo" (When I See You) by Olodum and "Tdo Seu," (So Much Yours) by Skank as well as "Eva," a song launched by the band RadioTaxi, which ' was incorporated into the repertoire of Banda Eva—and "Colecao" (Collection) by my idol, Cassiano," says Ivete.

The success of Banda Eva, which takes Ivete • Sangalo to super exposure in the media, will gradually change the rhythm of the singer's life.

"Clearly, it's difficult to go shopping, to movies and restaurants, but I continue to go the gym as much in Salvador as in other cities where we perform.

Maintaining a good shape is one of Ivete's obsessions.

"I'm careful with my body. I work out quite a bit, I don't smoke, drink, or use drugs, and I eat a healthy diet. I need to be in shape. After all, I spend a lot of energy when I'm on stage."

Banda Eva has been the most gratifying surprise of Bahian music in the past couple ofyears.

Named the best newcomer of Carnaval two years ago, the band subsequently exploded onto the national scene and reached millions of people with their contagious music. Their shows became the most attended, and Ivete Sangalo chosen as the muse of the new generation of voices in Bahia. The band does not just return as sharp as in Hora H, (The Nick of Time), the last CD, but with the repeat performance of producer Mazzola makes a resounding earthquake with Beleza Rara, (Rare Beauty). It is on the 12 tracks, as well as the bonus track in Spanish of the anticipated hit "Quimica Perfeita," (Perfect Chemistry), that the self confidence and musical talent of Banda Eva comes out on the CD, which fuses MPB, axe, merengue, samba, reggae, and bald° with a delicious "Latin-ness". The all-embracing and beautiful voice of Ivete Sangalo punctuates the songs with an energy and delicacy that can 46

make one's hair stand on end. It was not for nothing that Maria Bethania publicly demonstrated her satisfaction with the singer and the band.

Recorded in the studio of Impressdo Digital, in Rio de Janeiro, Beleza Rara wins over the listener at the first audition. The CD, which is already reaching the mass audience in Bahia and other parts of Brazil, opens with a soft beat in the title song by Ed Grandao and Nego John, and comes together with the vibrant tremble of "Levada Louca" by Gilson Babilonia, Lula Carvalho, and Alain Tavares and mixes with the happiness in "Onda de Desejo" (Wave of Desire) by Carlinhos Marques and Cabral.

The cry of war and pride of the incendiary "Eva, o Bloco" (Eva, the Group), by Clori Roger, shows clearly what Eva is on the Bahian scene: One of the most credible and explosive bands in the land of all the saints (Salvador is located in Baia de Todos os Santos, Bay of All Saints).

Saudade do Ile (Longing for the African House of Cult) by ClOvis Cruz and Gilberto Timbaleiro confirms that the group, according to the voice of Ivete, seeks to stay away from cliches. Evidence of this is the most personal arrangement of "Menino do Rio" (Boy from Rio), Caetano Veloso's classic.

Singer Netinho makes a special guest appearance on the delightful fusion of Latin and Bahian music in "Quimica Perfeita" (Perfect Chemistry) by the duo Pea and Guadalupe with lyrics in Portuguese by Ge Alves Pinto. The title already says it all, the meeting of the two voices and rhythm galore is about to burst upon the interna, tional scene.

The beat of "E Agora"(It Is Now) carries the first contribution of composer Ivete for the CD, next to saxophonist Paulinho Andrade. To prove that she is not just the owner of a powerful and versatile voice, Ivete herself composed the beautiful "Chorando Saudades" (Crying With Longing), a romantic song, which is one ofthe best of the band. Banda Eva caps off the celebration with the electrifying and passionate "Idioma da Paixao" (Language of Passion) by David Sales and "Amei Demais," (I Loved Too Much) by Monica Sangalo. Beleza Rara is a brilliant and seductive collection of musicality by a group in time with the strong and well-trained singer. It is a powerful concoction of pulsating bass, electric guitars, keyboards, and saxophone.

This lays the perfect base for Ivete Sangalo's talent, and this is the rare beauty of Banda Eva. More certain than the attendance of crowds in the heart of Pelt') (Pelourinho, the historical district BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

of Salvador, Bahia) at Camaval is the presence of Ivete on top of a trio eletrico. The singer of Banda Eva made the commitment to appear at a variety of events and promised to give her all to places and people who would invite her. The energy of the Baiana (woman from Bahia) who transformed the group—one among a multitude of groups—into one of the most successful and lucrative in Brazil ( the last CD already passed the 1.2 million mark of copies sold) seems limitless. This past year alone saw about 350 shows with Metropolitan (in Rio) on the horizon. And Ivete has no intention of stopping.

"When we issued our fist CD in '92, we only sold 20,000 copies. From then on I did everything I could to make our music accessible to people."

The singer's stubbornness had immediate results.

This year she unseated Daniela Mercury from the post of best-selling female Brazilian singer ( Mercury's CD Fey ão corn Arroz, (Beans With Rice) sold 400,000 copies fewer than Banda Eva's CD). Ivete tries to deal with the constant comparison between the two.

"I'm a fan of Daniela's. It was she who gave us a chance to show our work to a recording company."

From the bar circuit to the position in which she currently finds herself, the rapid ascent blends with Ivete's objectives. If she used to think of herself as a singer taking the first big step, she now intends to firm up her image as a composer.

"I don't dismiss the possibility of pursuing a solo career," she says, "but at the moment, the association with the band is so marvelous that I can't even think about it."

It is not just the relationship with the band which is going well. The executives at PolyGram, which records the band, all but rolled out the red carpet for Ivete.

"They recommended that I go to New York ,at Christmas to research fashion designers, but I think, really, that they wanted me to take a rest."

Far from home, Ivete worries about the future of her family. Her producer, Caco de Telha, looks after the other talents of the house. The group Fera Gorda (Fat Beast) led by her brother Jesus Sangalo, is her best bet: "They're all heavy, my brother being the lightest at 140 kilos (308 lbs.). They play it all. I'm also administering the career of my sister, Monica, a romantic guitarist."

Ivete pursues her destiny of muse naturally. Maintaining her form with a personal trainer, she does 300 abdominals per day and uses an ergometric bike with certain frequency. She says she is not worried about her appearance. A makeup artist, hairdresser, and a secretary/advisor contradict her statement.

"They worry too much about me," Ivete jokes.

In the past several months, Ivete has made contact with composers like Carlinhos Brown and Celso Fonseca, thinking of the repertoire of the next CD by Banda Eva. "We met in Gilberto Gil's dressing room, and she came and asked me for a song," says Celso Fonseca. "I BRALVL-JUNE1998

have about feur different songs to show her. I'd love to see one of my songs sung by Ivete because I consider her one of the most charismatic singers in Brazil."

A large pat of this charisma has to do with her stage presence, which exudes a contagious energy, which leaves the audience feeling exhausted. Having been elected the muse for the campaign for the prevention of AIDS by the Ministry of Health, Ivete likes to share her thoughts on good health and fitness. When he performs at Camaval, she starts at 1 in the afternoon and does not stop until well into the night—most ofthe time under the scalding sun. Thus, she fully understands the importance of hydration of her body as well as her skin, using a strong sunscreen.

For her nutrition, she has consulted Suely de Oliveira, coordinator of post graduation studies at the Nutrition Cilinic of the Institute of Nutrition in Santa Casa. It was recommended her to diminish the intake of saturated fats, such as what is found in red meat aud increase the intake of carbohydrates like pasta, bread, and vegetables.

Another emphasis is on hydration. Suely de Oliveira tells her that if she comes to feel thirsty, she has already waited too long for fluid intake. Alcohol, too, is a dehydrating factor when working in the hot sun, and she advises to refrain from drinking.

She further tells Ivete to get enough rest. The body an stand living without rest for several days, btu one must "catch up" and get sufficient sleep for mental and physical well being.

Ivete has ca efully researched the cosmetics products, which are right for her type of skin and style of living. 4&s well as using Spectra Ban to protect against the sun, her makeup made by Mac, also contain a sun filter. She also emphasizes the importance of keeping the skin clean with Clinique soap and clarifying tonic. Lancome products are also on her list of recommendations for beauty and health.

Her physical regimen is strict. Two hours of exercise per day consisting of 30-40 minutes on the exercise bike 30 minutes with weights, and the rest with abdomihal exercises as well as a run at the end of the day, makes up her daily routine.

Then, when he steps onto the stage to start a performance, she is ready to dance and sing, thrilling her growing, enthusiastic audiences.

Kirsten W inoldt was born in Denmark and came to th U.S. in 1969. Shefell in love with Brazil after seei g Black Orpheus many years ago and has lived i mersed in Brazilian culture ever si ce. E-mail: kwracing@erols.com 47

ooks

best-sellers RIO Tern Que Rebolar (You Have to Toil)—A portrait of old Rio with its scoundrels and bohemian sambistas. Directed by Andre Paes Leme, with Flavia Bauraqui and Roberto DOria. Arte & Cia Casa de Cultura at Universidade Estacio de Sá.

Oh! Calcutd—Traditional cult British musical on all sorts of sex deviations.

Directed by Gugu Olimecha, with Jaqueline Brandao and Silvana Bulgarelli. Teatro Tereza Rachel.

0 Silicone (Silicone)—Comedy. A marriage in the brink of collapse. Written by Agildo Ribeiro and Gugu Olimecha. Directed by Agildo Ribeiro. With Agildo Ribeiro and Flelena Werneck. Teatro dos Grandes Atores.

Toda Nudez Serd Castigada (All Nudity Will Be Punished)—Nelson Rodrigues classical and polemic play about a prostitute who becomes a housewife. Directed

by Moacyr G6es. Marilia Pera plays Geni, the main character, a role written for Fernanda Montenegro. Teatro Carlos Gomes Amor de Poeta (Poet's Love)—The story of the burning passion between romantic poet Castro Alves and actress Eugenia de Castro. Written by Tiago Santiago, directed by Andre Mauro, with Maria Claudia and Tiago Santiago. Teatro Glaucio Gil.

SA-0 PAULO Porca Miseria (Goddamn)—Willing to go back to their homeland an Italian family concocts a sting Written by Jandira Martini and Marcos Caruso. Directed by Gianni Ratto, with Marcos Caruso, Jandira Martini, Miguel Magno, and Noemi Gerbelli.

Teatro Sergio Cardoso. ppp@WLLMSHKSPR.br —Williarp Shakespeare revisited with several of his plays getting new versions. By Jess Btorgeson, Adam Long, and Daniel Singer.

Translated by Barbara-Heliodora. Directed

by Emilio Di Biasi. With ensemble ParlapatOes, Patifes & PaspalhOes: Alexandre Roit, Hugo Possolo and Raul Barretto. Teatro Faap.

A ntes do Fim (Before the End)—T he story of a murder for love. Written and directed

by Samir Yazbek, with Rodrigo Penna, Claudia Cavalheiro, and Adriano Costa.

Teatro Mars.

As Milos de Euridice (Euridice's Hands)— Monologue. Praised and reviled Pedro Bloch's story of a man who leaves his wife. Directed and interpreted by Carlos Lopes. Teatro das NacOes. Quem Roubou meu Anabela? (Who Stole My Anabela?)An adulterous living together with their daemons. By Ivo Bender.

Directed by Jairo Maciel, with Cia. Luz & Palco. Teatro Macunaima.

Caixa 2 (Under the Table)—A man becomes a millionaire due to a mistake by a bank teller. By Juca de Oliveira, directed

by Fauzi Arai), with Juca de Oliveira, Falvio Stefanini, Suzy Rego, and Petronio Gontijo. Teatro Jardel Filbo.

48

American films just released: The Apostle (0 Apostolo), The Assignment (Caca ao Terrorista), Blues Brothers (Os Irinclos Cara-de-pau: Ano 2000), Boogie Nights (Boogie Nights: Prazer Sem Limite), City of Angels (Cidade dos Anjos), The Daytrippers (Urn Dia em Nova Iorque), Deep Impact (Impact° Profundo), Desperate Measures (Medidas Desesperadas), The End of Violence (0 Elm da Violencia), Gattaca (Gattaca: A Experiencia Genetica), Great expectations (Grandes Esperancas), The Horse Whisperer (0 Encantador de Cavalos), Mr. Magoo (Mr. Magoo), Mortal Kombat: Annihilation (Mortal Kombat: A Aniquilacao), Mrs. Dalloway (Senhora Dalloway), Primary colors (Segredos do Poder), The Replacement Killers (Assassinos Substitutos), Seven Years in Tibet (Sete Anos no Tibet) Policarpo Quaresma, Henn do Brasil (Policarpo Quaresma. Hero of Brazil)— Brazil/1997— By Paulo Thiago based on Lima Barreto's work. With Paulo Jose, Giulia Gam, Aracy Balabanian, and Jose Lewgoy. The comic adventures of a nationalist.

Profundo Carmesi (Vermelho Sangue)— Mexico/France/Spain/1996—By Arturo Ripstein. With Regina Orozzo, Daniel Gimenez, and Marisa Paredes. A magazine personal is the starting point for this drama about a nurse and her dreams of love.

Cinzas do Paraiso (Ashes of Paradise)— Argentina/1997— By Marcelo Pitleyro, with Hector Alterio. Cecilia Roth, and Leonardo Sbaraglia. A 18 oman judge goes looking for the truth after the death of a colleague.

Post-Coitum (Post-Coitum: Animal Triste)—France/1997—By Brigitte Royan. With Patrick Chesnais, Boris Terral, and Nils Tavernier. Pleasure and hell for a middle-age woman who star a romance with a solitary young man.

For All, 0 Trampolim da Vitoria (For All, Victory's Springboard)—Brazil/ 1997—By Luiz Carlos Lacerda and Buza Ferraz. Comedy with Betty Faria, Jose Wilker, and Caio Junqueira. Living with an American military base during the Second World War in Natal, state of Rio Grande do Norte.

Boleiros: Era uma Vez o ,Futebol (Old Ball Players: Once Upon' a Time Soccer)—Brazil/1998— By Ugo Giorgetti.

With Adriano Stuart, Flavio Migliaccio, and Lima Duarte. Retired soccer players reminisce about their old times.

FICTION 1 Atraves do espelho, Jostein Gaarder.

Companhia das Letras, 144p R$17.

2 0 mundo de Sofia, Jostein Gaarder.

Companhia das Letras, 555 p. R$26,50.

3 A dguia e a galinha, Leonardo Boff.

Vozes, 206 p. R$16.

4 0 piano perfeito, Sidney Sheldon.

Record, 300 p. R$25.

5 Despertar da ciguia, Leonardo Boff.

Vozes, 174 p. R$12.

6 0 pequeno principe, Antoine SaintExupery. Agir, 92 p. R$13.

7 Honra silenciosa, Danielle Steel. Record, 364 p. R$20.

8 A senhora de Avalon, Marion Zimmer Bradley. Rocco, 504 p. R$28.

9 0 advogado do diabo, Andrei Neiderman.

Record, 304 p. R$25.

10 0 magnata, Harold Robbins. Record.

480 p. R$28.

NONFICTION 1 Cancer tern cura, Frei Romano Zago.

Vozes, 208 p. R$10.

2 Chic Homem, manual de moda e estilo, Gloria Kalil. Senac, 237p. R$45.

3 Violetas na janela, Vera Lucia M. de Carvalho. Petit, 139 p. R$9,50.

4 Feliz 1958, o ano que nao devia terminar, Joaquim Ferreira dos Santos.

Record, 192 p. R$20.

5 Conversando corn as espiritos, James Van Praagh. Salamandra, 224p R$19,50.

6 0 livro das virtudes para criancas, William J. Bennett. Nova Fronteira, 112 p.

R$19.

7 Leonardo Dicaprio—o Romeu moderno, Grace Catalano. Manole, 120 p. R$8.

8 As melh ores piadas do plan eta e da Casseta, Casseta e Planeta. Objetiva, 128 p. R$10.

9 No ar rarefeito, Jon Krakauer. Companhia das Letras, 280 p. R$23.

10 As sete leis espirituais do sucesso, Deepak Chopra. Best Seller, 104 p.

R$13,50.

ESOTERISM/ SELF-HELP 1 0 sucesso eserfeliz, Roberto Shinyashi.

Gente, 198 p. R$20.

2 A fonte dajuventude, Peter Kelder. Best Seller, 78 p. R$10,50.

3 Feng Shui, a arte milenar chinesa, Richard Craze. Campus, 136p. R$13,90.

4 Minutos de sabedoria, Torres Pastorino.

Vozes, 280 p. R$4,29.

5 Almas gemeas, Monica Buonfiglio.

Oficina Cultural Esoterica, 161 p. R$18.

According to Jornal do Brasil http://www.jb.com.br

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LOS ANGELES To SAO PAULO OR RIO a partir de $479

ida e volta (Sujeito a restngOes ou mudangas sem aviso previo)

SAO PAULO TO LOS ANGELES a partir de

$840 ida e volta

(Sujeito a restrigoes ou mudangas sem aviso previo)

SF To BELO HORIZONTE a partir de

$590 ida e volta

(Sujeito a restrigoes ou mudangas sem aviso previo)

LAX TO BELO HORIZONTE OR SALVADOR a partir de $528

ida e volta (Sujeito a restrigoes ou mudangas sem aviso previo)

RIO TO LOS ANGELES

EXISTEM MUITAS AGENCIAS DE VIAGEM PARA VOCE ESCOLHER I E A ESCOLHA FINAL E SEMPRE SUAs POREM NOS DE A CHANCE DE MOSTRARIHE QUE, COM 0 JEITINHO BRASILEIRO,_ VOCE VAI PODER VIAJAR SEMPRE POR MENOS!

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ASSENTOS LIMITADOS SUJEITO A RESTRIcOES

SF TO RIO a partir de

$586 ida e volta

(Sujeito a restrigaes ou mudangas sem aviso previo)

NYC TO RIO OR SAO PAULO a partir de

$470 ida e volta

(Sujeito a restrigaes ou mudangas sem aviso previo)

MIAMI To RIO OR SAO PAULO a partir de

$422 ida e volta

(Sujeito a restncOes ou mudangas sem aviso previo)

LOS ANGELES/SF/LAS VEGAS TO RIO/SAO PAULO a partir de

$390

ida (one way)

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SF TO SAO PAULO

ROM THE WORL a partir de

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(Sujeito a restrigOes ou mudangas sem aviso previo) BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

a partir de

TRAVEL

$585 ida e volta

(Sujeito a restrigaes ou mudangas sem aviso previo) 49

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BRAZILIAN FLAG PATCH Embroidered 2 x T 57cm x 8.9cm) sew-on, $4 ea., S&H Caps & T Shirts $15 ea S&H Incl.

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CERTIFIED TRANSLATIONS (TRADUcA0 JURAMENTADA) Legal, Medical, Scientific, Business Documents and School Transcripts

Certified by the California Judicial Council and filed with the Brazilian Consulate Since 1981

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213-255-8062 brazzil@brazzil.com

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COVPAY: CONTACT: ADDRESS: CITY, ST, ZIP: PHONE. PRODUCT:

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BRAZZIL - RO. BOX 42536 LOS ANGELES, CA 90050 Call (213)255-8062 or E-mail: brazzil@brazzil.com

For Ad, call (213) 255-8062 or E-mail: brazzil@brazzil.com 50

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

FEIRA LIVRE OPEN MARKET BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY

COOKING

Inside sales agents needed, bilingual, Mon-Fri., L.A. Area.

Call (213) 482-2323. Ask for Sdrgio.[150]

Delightful Brazilian Cooking

by Eng Tie Ang, two for one sale $14.95, plus $5 shipping and handling. Over 130 authentic, quick and easy recipes. P.O. Box 30818- Seattle, WA 98103 -Tell Fax (206) 789-3693 [142]

International Company exporting to Brazil. High $ potential for individuals with contacts in Brazil. (805) 449-5507 [150] Make fast cash quickly! Call (414) 299-0598 Now! [149] US company expanding into Brazil. Seeking entrepreneurs for initial US start-up. Brazilian business connections a plus. To find out more call (800) 900-5423 [148] Vendedor (a) independente.

Procuro por uma pessoa interessada em atuar na venda de software personalizado em contabilidade (626) 584-1512 http:// www.paikco.com/sales/ [150] CATERING

Atencao, brasileiros: fazemos comidaparacongelar, salgadinhos, jantares, pequenos/grandesgrupos.

Call Joy (562) 438-3415 [149] CLASSES

Conversational Brazilian Portuguese Method - "I tried several methods to learn BRAZILIAN PORTUGUESE, but when I started lessons with NIL SON, I knew immediately that I'd found the best one. And in just a few months, I was able to communicate on a one-on-one basis." Individual, Total Immersion, Corporate Group and Semi-Private.

Phone (310) 379-0738 [148] Portuguese Courses in Salvador da Bahia, Dialog°, http:// www.brazilstudy.com, E-mail: dialogo brazilstudy.com, fax: 01155 7T336-6329 [155] COMPUTER & SOFTWARE

Need a Computer? Bad Credit?

No problem! 99% approval. No money down. Fully loaded Intel Pentium 233. All accessories, two Web pages, color monitor; Cannon color printer, Microsoft Office '97, plus 70 other software titles. Earn $2500-$3900 for sharing with others, plus other bo nuses! Call 1-800-900-5423 [150] Desenvolvemos softwares personalizados para contabilidade, controle de vendas & estoques, e codigo de barra. Tel. :(626) 5841512 http://www.paikco.com/ software/ [150] BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

FOOD

Salgados - Coxinhas, Risoles, Croquete / Docinhos - Brigadeiro, Beijinho... Suzana (714) 666-2749 [153] HEALTH & FITNESS

Newest Technology in nutritional supplement delivery Spray Vitamins, 25-30 seconds in bloodstream, 90-96% absorption. Call (310) 452-1952 [148] MISCELLANEOUS

Estude a Biblia por correspondencia na privacidade do seu lar.

Inteiramente gratis. Envie seu endereeo postal para: BCCI, Box 3841, Springfield, IL 627083841 [144] ' Tickets para o Brasil - Cheap / Baratos - 1 (800)643-3910. Tudo legal. [157] Music

Brazilian Music in its totality.

Samba, bossa nova, chorinho, baiao, axe, and more. Merchant Express (954) 785-5991 MUSIC INSTRUCTION

Bossa Guitar, John Scott (310) 459-5995 [150] NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES

Jornais e revistas do Brasil.

Recebemos jornais diarios etodas as principais revistas, incluindo masculinas e femininas. Tel. (954) 785-5991 Used Brazilian adult magazines Playboy, Ele,Ela... on sale for just US$5 each plus $3 for postage each. Also available Hong Kong Playboy and Penthouse (used). Mail check to Tenko U.S.A., P. 0. Box 1096 Temple City, CA, 91780 or call (626) 299-1176 [146] PERSONAL WOMAN SEEKS MAN

Americana corn coracao brasikir°, hem educada, que adora a brazzil-ADS (213) 255-8062

FEIRA LIVRE RATES: 500 a word. Phone is one word.

DISCOUNTS: For 3 times deduct 5%, for 6 times deduct 10%, for 12 times deduct 15%.

POLICY: All ads to be prepaid. Ads are accepted at our discretion. Your canceled check is your receipt. Please, include address and phone number, which will be kept confidential.

DEADLINE: The 25th of the month. Late material will be held for the following month if appropriate.

TO PLACE AD: Send ad with check, money order or your Credit Card number (plus your name and expiration date) to: BRAZZIL P.O. Box 42536 Los Angeles, CA 90050-0536. musica, o samba, cultura, a linguae o povo brasil iros, queria conhecer um brasil iro solteiro de 40 anos ou mais, e boa forma, morando em New ork City ou pertinho. Messages to E-mail: sy1via2125@aol.co [130] Single Brazilian W men. Men worldwide desire to orrespond with you for frie dship/inarriage. No Fee. Send olor photo and profile to SO B, P. 0.

274123, Tampa, FL 33688,call (813) 932-3805 r e-mail: davesotb@sotb.co - http:// www.sotb.com [15 1 PERSONAL MAN SEEKS WOMAN

American Male 40, professional, kind, handsome, affectionate, in Chicago, wants to meet a Brazilian lady 20-35, write send photo; William Cook, 3814 Madison, Bellwood, IL 60104 USA [150]

E-mail tfontana@hotmail.com [149] PERSONAL FRIENDSHIP/MARRIAGE

Gostaria de corresponder-me corn brasileiros (as), latinos (as), ou americanos (as) que falem portugues. Apenas amizade.

Tenho 18 anos. Luciene Pinto, Rua Leonardo da Vince, No. 13, Senador"Camard, Rio de Janeiro, CEP: 21831-100 Brazil. [152] Friendship/Marriage/Correspondence. Men, ladies, worldwide. Large information packet $2 (no inmates). Ladies in Brazil, about 80 names, addresses (no pictures) $12. Agarwal, Box 10020, Glendale, CA 91209 [149] PSYCHOTHERAPY

American, male, whi e,45 years old, would like to meet a Brazilian or Portuguese lady. I speak English only. Age open. Call (415) 757-1946 (Eves) [142]

Chronic & Life Threatening illnesses, A.D.D. & dyslexia, life transitions, bicultural & relationship issues, sexual identity conflict — Edison de Mello, M.D.; Ph.D./MFCC — Portuguese/ Spanish/ English. (310) 656-6987 [137]

Americano, 36, atraente, romantic° e sincero. Procura brasileira18-45.Enviar foto para: 2440- 16th St. #179, San Francisco, CA 94103 [148]

Emotional & psychological help - Elizabete Almeida MFCC licensed psychotherapist. English/Portuguese. Reasonable rates. (310) 281-7536. [158]]

Seeking ladies 18-45 years old to correspond with American men for friendship and companionship. FREE for all ladies.

Write: TigerLilies, 2709 Lookout Dr., &lite 5206, Garland TX 75044 USA [160]

Dialog° Translates from and to Brazilian Portuguese: http:// www.brazilstudy.com [155]

PERSONAL

TRANSLATION & INTERP.

Translation Services (Servicos de Traducao) from/to English/ Portuguese (415)457-3103 [153]

MAN SEEKS MAN

TRAVEL

Westerner, 38, living in Hong Kong, 5'10", 160 lbs athletic, banker, wants to meet Brazilian males visiting Hong Kong for sex or relationship. Prefer 30 and up, tall, not thin, well endowed.

Touristic services in 'Salvador da Bahia: Dialog°, http:// www.brazilstudy.com [155] brazzil-ADS (213) 255-8062 51

Boston Books Livraria Plenitude (800) 532-5809

Consulate Consulado do Brasil (617) 617-542-4000

Dentist Sylvio P. Lessa (617) 924-1882

Food & Products Brasil Brasil (617) 561-6094 Jerry's Cachaca (617) 666-5410

Instruction Approach Student Ctr (617) 787-5401 Braz. & Amer. Lg. Inst.

(617) 787-7716

Publications The Brazilian Monthly (617) 566-3651 Bossa: Braz. Jazz Guide (617) 262-9997

Restaurants Café Brazil (617) 789-5980 Ipanema (508) 460-6144 Tropicana (617) 567-4422 Pampas Chu rrasca ria (617) 661-6613

Chicago Consulate Consulado G. do Brasil (312) 464-0244

Translations Portuguese Lang. Ctr. (312) 276-6683

Los Angeles Airlines \Twig (800) GO VARIG Vasp (310) 364-0160

Arts & Crafts Bakari Art Studio (213) 938-0523 Folk Creations (310) 693-2844 !"..

Culture Planet (310) 441-9808 " Zebi Designs (310) 391-6530

Auto Repair Cosmo Auto Parts (213) 259-9818

Banks Banco do Brasil (213) 688-2996

Catering Joy's Catering (562) 438-3415

Clothes Samba Collection (562) 437-1939 Summer Brazil (310) 455-1772

Clubs & Associations Brazil-Cal. Chbr of Com. (310) 665-0166 Brazilian Sociocult. C. (310) 370-0929 Centro Cultural GaUcho (213) 256-6548 MILA - Samba School (310) 391-6098 Mov. Social Humanista (310) 281-6652 52

SambaLa -Esc. de Samba (562) 437-1939

Consulate Brazilian Consulate (213) 651-2664

Dentist Gilberto Henriques (213) 464-0524

Events Promotion Brazilian Nites Prod.

(818) 566-1111 Pegasus - Parties & Ent. (818) 549-0383 Sayegh Promotions (562) 863-3463

Food & Products Cachaca Pitu (714) 731-7788

Health & Fitness Hands of Care Massage Ther.

(213) 937-3835

Instruction Brasil Brasil Cult. Ctr (310) 397-3667 Modern Lang. Center (310) 839-8427

Internet & Art Design ArtMedia (310) 826-1443

Legal Services Memtas & Ferraz (310) 360-0901

Loans Finance Plus Mort. Corp.

(310) 585-8911

Matchmaker Fogo e Paixao (310) 450-4586

Music Braz. Jazz /All Occasions (310) 839-3788 Jazz - Richard Samuels (818) 798-5424

Physician Deem Rangel (310) 828-7454 Ingrid Roth - Gynec.

(310) 451-8144 Nilson A. Santos (213) 483-3430

Psychother/Counsel.

Elizabeth Almeida, M.A. (310) 281-7536 Dr. Jefferson Si (818) 592-0402 Tania Haberkorn, M.A. (310) 840-5380

Publications Brazzil (213) 255-8062

Real Estate Cent. 21 - Vlad. Bellemo (714) 406-0121 Cent. 21 - Solon Pereira (562) 924-9633 Cent. 21 Tania Sayegh (562) 865-2992

Restaurants & Cafés Bossa Nova (310) 657-5070 Brazilian Tropical (714) 720-1522

By Brazil (310) 787-7520 Café Brasil (310) 837-8957 Ginga Brasil (714) 778-0266 Liana Bahia (310) 657-6306 Rio Braz. Churrascaria (714) 739-2000 Za bum ba (310) 841-6525

Translation/Interp.

Brazilian Int. Affairs (310) 854-5881

Tocantins Communic.

(818) 248-3667

Travel/Tours Around the World Trl. (800) 471-6333 Brazil Air (800) 441-8515 Brazil Tours (818) 767-1200 Cheviot Hills Travel (310) 202-6264 Traveland (800) 321-6336

TV Brazil TV & Production (562) 437-6404

Miami S. Florida Airlines Transbrasil (800) 872-3153 Varig (800) 468-2744 Vasp (800) 732-8277

Banks Banco do Brasil (305) 358-3586 Banco Nacional (305) 372-0100 Banco Real (305) 358-2433 Banespa (305) 358-9167

Clubs & Associations ABFC- As. Bras. da Flan (407) 354-5200 Cam. Corn. Brasil- EUA (305) 579-9030 ARARA - Amazon. As. (813) 842-3161

Consulate Consulado do Brasil (305) 285-6200

Dentists Arnaldo Souza (305) 595-3238 Hedimo de Se (305) 262-8212

Food & Beverages All Brttz. Imp. & Exp. (305) 523-8134 Brazil by Mail (954) 472-7163 Guarana Esteves (305) 345-1540 Vanya's Sweets (954) 785-0087 Via Brasil (305) 866-7718

Physicians Dr. Jorge Macedo (305) 271-7311 Dr. Mario Sanches (305) 541-7819 Dr. Neri Franzon (305) 776-1412

Publications Florida Review (305) 374-5235

Real Estate Simone Bethencourt (954) 704-1211

Restaurants Bo teco (954) 566-3190 Brazilian Tropicana (954) 781-1113 Porcao (305) 373-2777 Steak Masters (305) 567-1718

Travel Agencies Brazilian Wave (305) 561-3788 Discover Brazil Tours (800) 524-3666

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53

An excerpt baby on its journey to the headaches of adminisThe bus was more like a plane than a bus. trative duties.

It was the singularly most impressive bus I This particular midwife helped me a lot. His had ever been on in my life. It was one of name was Albertini and he spoke English in that TTL's fleet. TTL was the name of a Uruwonderfully strange Brazilian accent. He seemed guayan bus company. genuinely eager to make my acquaintance. He Everything inside the bus was immacugave me his business card (his line of business lately clean and tidy. There were even hostwas computers) and wrote his name and number esses on the bus, resplendent in sky blue on it. He wrote on the other side a list of places I uniforms. The hostesses would gingerly walk should see in Brazil, such as Cristo Redentor and down the aisle, first carrying a tray of small Escolas de Samba (The Schools of Samba). I plastic cups filled with cordial, then a basket somehow knew that this man's gregarious, helpof boiled lollies. It was all so unexpected, ful nature would be replicated in his countrymen. ridiculous and innocent that I couldn't fail to For even Rosa Maria had not stopped raving be charmed by it. I could have been in Prince's about how fantastic the Brazilian people were.

Raspberry Beret film clip. Perhaps I was. The With an animated face she had related how the comforting ambience inside the bus made me Brazilians ate a lot of chicken and had a gentlefeel a bit better straight away, and I was on my ness to them. Being a mother, she noticed that the way to Brazil. mothers did not yell, at their children, as the It was the longest bus journey/labour I Uruguayans did. had ever undertaken. Although it only cost The other thing Rosa Maria had not stopped around $70 return, the trip from Montevideo raving about was how violent the Brazilians to Rio took two days and involved changing were. Rio de Janeiro had one of the highest buses three times. murder rates in the world. I got off the bus at the By the next morning I was well and truly station in Rio and Albertini guided me to the next in Brazil, and by nine AM I was in the city of bus that would take me on the final leg of my Porto Alegre. From here I caught another bus incredibly long journey into Rio proper, or Rio to a huge bus station in the city of Sao Paulo. improper or whatever. Now I was on my own and I arrived in Sao Paulo the next morning.

I was very nervous.

From Sao Paulo I caught yet another bus I was very nervous. I sat on the bus that to Rio. I was definitely no longer in Kansas, wended its way inexorably through the streets of no longer in the dreamy womb of the TTL Rio, specks of coloured light filtering through bus. According to Oprah, birth is traumatic kaleidoscope windows. I sat upright, clinging to and mine was no exception. Of course I was my suitcase the way a solo rock climber clings to afraid, I was petrified. People had spun such a precipice. I concentrated on my pockets, for I enticingly dangerous yarns about Brazil that could well imagine deft pickpockets relieving I had half expected to be killed then and there. me of my not so burdenThe bus itself did not help some wallet. I was surallay my fears. For the first 111 NI NI IIIIII rounded by dark-haired time in my South American strangers. Rosa Maria's sojourn I was in a bus in warnings jangled in my which the bus driver was head. Never carry more enclosed inside a cage of than a few dollars on you metal panels. This was obat a time. Always carry viously so he couldn't be your money inside your robbed and/or shot. pants. She had even given This not so subtle clue me a small nylon money as to the brutality of Brazil was juxtaposed with the purse to this end. Everyone had warned me about image of a nun in full black Everyone had warned me about Rio. Rio. That's why I had to habit only a few seats in That's why I had to go there. The last time front of me on the other side go there. The last time I of the aisle. To me, this infelt so vulnerable and I felt so vulnerable and afraid for my congruity between the bruafraid for my physical physical safety was in Hawaii.

Before I had tal and gentle, the violent safety was in Hawaii. and spiritual seemed to enBack in Brazil, I come to Brazil, people had warned me capsulate the essence of alighted the bus in Copaabout the Brazilians: they were violent and Brazil. Christ, I'd only been cabana, or should I say I there five minutes and alate lots of chicken. Someone 'in the know' was delivered. At last I ready I was stereotyping. was born and I wasn't even had also told me that the Brazilians' Outside the bus the covered in cottage cheese favourite national pastime was bonking. I landscape was also changand cherry jelly. Looming ing. Whereas Uruguay was above me and the whole was understandably miffed to learn that flat, dull and brown, the God-forsaken city was this wasn't necessarily the case. landscape of Brazil was draGod, Cristo Redentor, matically different. I was Christ the Redeemer, that amazed when I looked out immense grey statue MICHAEL X SAVVAS my window to see musiyou've probably seen cally undulating hills, a countless times in films ------------vivid tree frog green. I was such as Blame It On Rio. obviously passing through There I was, on the set of the labia.

Blame It On Rio. I _just walked, asking my intuition to guide me I was in another world and even the people had changed. I was to a cheap place to stay. I walked for a few blocks away from the sitting next to a young Brazilian man with glasses and man was he main street until I was nowhere near any type of hotel or possible helpful. He was as helpful as a midwife at the Women and accommodation. I decided that my intuition had probably failed Children's Hospital who has seen it all yet still prefers to help a me. I was at the edge of an urban park. Exasperated, I asked two

10 Intermezzo

butch young women if they knew a place to stay. They said I could stay where they were staying and led me directly across the road to a place that was right in front of me. My intuition had not let me down. It was Sunday. I had a place to stay. It was called Albergue and was a youth hostel.

• The Next Day Was Fantastic The next day was fantastic! On Copacabana Beach I serendipitously bumped into Lena. Wasn't it George Burns who said that his idea of heaven was to bump into Raquel Welch, about 100 times in succession. A dated allusion, but still.

Lena asked me sadly why I hadn't rung her. I was surprised that she seemed genuinely upset that I hadn't rung. I assumed that she had given me her phone number because she was humouring me, like buying a raffle ticket for a charity, both parties knowing you'll never win. I was no charity, but I was feeling very charitable. I apologized for not ringing, but asked if she wanted to go to the movies with me later that night.

For the rest of the day I lived the usual sensations I experience after securing a date, excitement and nervousness. Excitement about the possibilities. Nervousness about the possibilities. I knew deep down that Lena must like me if she was a) sad about me not ringing and b) agreed to go to the movies with me. I also knew from painful experience that where women were concerned, nothing was guaranteed. The favourites were often scratched and long shots were sometimes the first to reach the finishing post.

Before I left Albergue to go on the date I ran into Ana Claudia and Guga. Leandro and I were both becoming irritated by their presence, and Leandro had begun referring to them affectionately as the `Moscas' or mosquitoes. Leandro sure knew how to handle a metaphor. I asked Guga how old Ana Claudia was and was shaken (not stirred) by the answer. She was 13! It explained why she had been so reluctant to go for a walk with me. 13! Christ, I could have been Gauguin and she my Javanais Woman. The only difference was Mosca wasn't Javanais and I wasn't a French stockbroker cum paedophile with a big nose.

The cinema wasn't far from Albergue.

Nothing was. I was apprehensive until the moment I greeted her outside the cinema.

For as soon as I met her she warmly and quite unexpectedly put her hand in mine and led me inside the house of magic. Apparently the movie was about to begin. I felt ecstatic, but like the lyrics to a James Reyne song, things somehow didn't seem right.

For unlike on all the other dates I'd been on, there was no agonized suspense over the outcome. I knew from the moment she grabbed my hand that the date was a success, that I wouldn't be rejected, that everything in the world was all right. Things did seem right!

The film itself? The romantic Frankie and Johnny, with Michelle Pfeiffer and Al Pacino. Yeah, I don't mind the old Cinomeister. He looks deadpan, but in factual act he's got charm, enough charm to get away with being cruel. Of course Robert de Niro has even more charm than Pacino, ipso facto can get away with even more cruelty.

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

But I digress. Lena and I sat in the back ro of the cinema and had to exchange sea s after Lena informed me that she was deaf n one ear. She had a lazy eye, but she was s warming as Stone's Green Ginger Wine d man was she beautiful.

After the romantic film we went for a walk on Copacabana Beach. Lena told e that she was scared to go there for fear f being mugged. With the naïveté of a touri t, I told her not to worry, that I would prote t her. She told me that although a local, s e had been mugged at lcnifepoint twice in t e last six months. When I walked with he I could understand why to some extent. S e acted and walked like a victim. She walk d with no confidence, and kept turning h r head from left to right with a fearful expre sion on her face. I was surprised she had 't painted a bull's-eye target on her back. Ito d her to be like me and stride confident y down the street. Nothing would happen o her this way.

On the beach we passed a black Braz 1ian throwing a boomerang to himself (as y u do). Completely taken aback and charm d by this bizarre image Mr Greg Arious call d out to the man, 'I'm Australian!' The m n automatically assumed I would be a pro 1cient boomerang tosser (or indeed just a proficient tosser) and held the boomer g out to me in a friendly manner. I shrugg d and smiled apologetically and said that I couldn't use it. Lena and I continued to walk on, along the sand of this bizarre dreamlike world.

And then I kissed her. She was fantast c.

We were all over each other like a ra h decision. I could feel her warmth for me n her touch. I've heard the trendy design -r theories that one should not gain a sense f self-worth from another's behaviour d responses, but God damn it, I felt good abo t myself while kissing Lena, no make t great. I would even go as far as to sugg st that Lena had a good deal to do with it.

Love does strange things to time. Wh n waiting to see or talk to a beloved, time is long and relentless. When one is with a beloved, time is small and speedy, like ad 11 grey rat. The day after the fantastic day w s very long. I had agreed to ring Lena after t n PM. It was unbearable waiting to call her I called and we met at her apartment.

We went for an ice cream at the Unit d Nations of Generation X, McDonald's. Th n it was down to Copacabana Beach for bu ness as usual, along, intimate bout of kis y kissy.

Around this Lunar Phase of the Le a Phase I had lunch as per usual at t e lanchonete. It was a filthy cesspit from hell. but they gave cheap nosebags (around thr e dollars a meal). Since the resourceful Lean o had discovered the place we had made i a minor tradition to have lunch there eve day. Every day the same John Dory. A bo I of leftover meat enmeshed in a stew-li e concoction. Every day that is until I decid d to brave the Wild West Saloon on my o .

I ordered the same meal from the sic looking man with shifty eyes. He thou t that he could pull the wool over my prov rbial and casually served me up a bowl •f crud with the shonkiest, gristliest pieces •f

meat imaginable. He could not speak English, but I made it quite clear that I was not impressed with the shite he had presented me. He knew what my beef was (and it wasn't beef) and he begrudgingly replaced it with another bowl of only slightly less gutwrenching fodder passing as food, gloryless food. I ate what I could in sullen silence and kept it warm through the steam emanating from my nostrils. If I were Hemingway, I would have supposedly drunk with the sleazy bartender, tongued the bottle, taken him outside and knocked him out senseless. I wasn't Hemingway, I was Savvas and I left the lanchonete, vowing never to return there.

I ruminated on how stupid some people in business were. If the baahtender hadn't tried to give me the lion's share of the gristle, I would have continued to patronize his hovel day after day. Now I would never return.

One person who wasn't stupid (at least in business) was Tamio. Everything in Rio worked out for the best, and I met Tamio the day before being ripped off at the lanchonete.

The day I was ripped off at the lanchonete I asked Tamio to cook for me. Tamio was Japanese, and along with a couple of the other guys at Albergue, I had 'commissioned' him to cook Japanese food. He was a good cook and it tasted great. His rates were also very reasonable.

When I say Tamio was Japanese, he wasn't Japanese in the sense that you or I or the children in a geography class imagine the term. Then again, neither were the Japanese whose ancestors had settled in Brazil. I had met one of them who stayed in my room at Albergue. Sure, he had Asian features, but his skin was tanned very darkly (like someone pretending to be an island native in a Toho film). He spoke Portuguese, dressed casually in inexpensive clothes and unlike his Japanese brethren, lacked any sign of wealth.

Tamio on the other hand, was a Japanese tourist. Like me, he could visit the squalor, feel warm and sympathetic towards the locals, then catch an air-conditioned flight back to our respective Lands of the Rising Middle Classes. He was short and relatively muscular. His calves in particular looked like they had been requisitioned to work hard on the numerous travels their owner must have undertaken on Shank's pony. He had a big Burt Reynolds' type moustache, the canopy of which protected a broad, lascivious grin. The top of his head was also a la Burt Reynolds, fairly well bald.

Tamio was quite unselfconsciously obsessed with sex. At least, he was obsessed with oral sex, talking about it. Hell, I'm no prude! Every other thought of mine related to humpy pumpy, but that was different.

Tamio must have been in his mid forties! I was in my Roaring Twenties, still too young to have my natural sexual impulses conditioned out of me by polite society and special interest groups.

Tamio smashed (or at least reshaped) the stereotype I had of Japanese being polite and ultra-reserved. He was brash and earthy and used language that would make a wharfie blush. Stereotypes are a funny thing. Once Leandro and I had gone to leave Albergue for the day to find that it was surrounded by

55

a swarm of starry-eyed young teenagers.

The outer gate was closed, and only limited people were being allowed inside. We found out that an episode of one of the popular television serials or telenovelas was being filmed on location at Albergue. In Rio I felt like a movie star, and now the milling television crew and equipment seemed to confirm this suspicion. For a joke, I assumed a smug, nonchalant Hollywood style pose and expression. Pretending that I was one of the television stars, I casually reached out to one of the children's autograph books and signed it. Leandro suppressed his laughter. The majority of children stared at me blankly, mouths open in amazement/disgust. One astute girl decided to humour me and put a mock expression of gratitude on her face.

She intoned ironically, 'Oh, muchas gracias!'

The moral of the story? a) Rio was a place where it was okay to pretend to be someone else. Fantasy was acceptable and necessary, and when I pretended to be a TV star, a pretend fan pretended to be grateful. b) The girl made a point of speaking to me in Spanish, obviously believing I was Hispanic (almost definitely Argentinean.) She must have been convinced I fit the Argentine stereotype. Stereotypes are a funny thing.

Speaking of Leandro, around this point Leandro did a runner. Yes, Rio had presented him with love. He was going back to Argentina, but was planning to return to Rio in the near future to reclaim Eloise. Abelard and Heloise. He had even gone to see his favourite football team at the local stadium. I intended going with him, but feigned sickness so I could meet Lena.

On the day my good buddy was leaving, he wanted to have a farewell bevvy with me.

We went to a small bar near Albergue. He bought me a beer and I thought it was a very Australian thing to do. He expressed his warmth and friendship towards me. Not through a verbal chundering of sentimentality, but through simply being there and buying me a beer and I thought he was very Australian. He had taken me under his wing, and introduced me to the magic of Rio. Now I was on my own, but I was glad to have met him and very grateful.

Besides, I wasn't really on my own. I had met Lena for example. She and I caught the bus to mythical Ipanema. Of course, the words to "Girl From Ipanema" danced seductively around my head. I felt amazed to be living the song. I was so happy to be in her arms that we could have been watching the Test Pattern and I would have raved vociferously about its entertainment value. As it turned out, we were part of a group ofpeople watching a comic busker who amused us without words. One of his idiosyncrasies was to affect a cough, 'mm hm' throughout the act. Lena and I seemed to find this incredibly amusing. When she imitated the man's mock cough, 'mm hm' (in a higher, smaller sound of course) she was so cute I just wanted to hold her and hold her.. very tightly and with no clothes on.

Ipso facto it may come as no surprise that I suggested we go back to Copacabana for a romantic walk on the beach. I swelled with happiness when she wrote on the sand

56

'Te amo': I love you. I tried to do the dirty deed with her, but to no avail.

Before I had come to Brazil, people had warned me about the Brazilians: they were violent and ate lots of chicken. Someone 'in the know' had also told me that the Brazilians' favourite national pastime was bonking.

I was understandably miffed to learn that this wasn't necessarily the case. Perhaps the Brazilians' favourite national pastime was 'banking' and I had misheard. For when I first needed to cash some travellers' cheques in Rio, I waited in the easygoing queue for over an hour. Sure, long queues were all a part of banking here. As were the suspension of private bank accounts by the Government, who returned them to people such as Lena's unfortunate mum a year later when the original money had devalued so much it was effectively useless. Yet I was overjoyed when I actually got to make the transaction.

The exchange rate for my U.S. dollars was so good that I suddenly and quite unexpectedly had much more money than I did in Argentina and Uruguay. The money also had much more 'bang for the buck' in Brazil. Needless to say, this made me upsurge over the Magic of Rio. Memories and Dreams I asked Yutaka and Hiro if they wanted to try and get a Press Pass with me.

They were very keen to get amongst it.

The highly desirable Press Pass would enable the bearer to have unlimited access to the Carnaval over the five days it was on and would save over Aus $1000 in tickets for seats. Needless to say, unless we acquired that Press Pass we wouldn't be able to afford to see even one day of Carnaval.

I briefed the lads on the mission. I explained that they would have no problem posing as my photographers, for they were Japanese. Everyone knew that the Japanese were a race of photographers. I advised them to each take a camera with them, to add credibility when we went to the Press Association.

This time we went to theright place: the Press Association, not the Journalists' Association Lena had led me to. Inside a bustling office I asked for a man called Jorge, whose job was to organise the Press for Carnaval (which commenced the following day.) A short, portly man with a greying beard and a red bulbous nose greeted me. He appeared to be a busy man and the resigned expression on his face testified to the enormous stress he was under. I didn't help his cause.

Trying my hardest to muster a confident manner, I told Jorge that I wanted to organise Press Passes for me and my photographers.

He gave me a pained look and asked if I had any 'credentials.' I didn't have the slightest idea what he was talking about, but showed him the letter I had from my friend at that arty newsletter 'Memories and Dreams' citing me as their Latin American correspondent. He glanced at the letter briefly and said that I needed 'credentials'. He reminded me that I should have applied earlier. I could feel myself going nowhere in a hurry, and thought that attack was the best form of defence. I remembered the ex-Commissioner

of Police in Malta advising me to be more aggressive when trying to get things done with Europeans.

I feigned anger. I barked to poor Jorge, 'Look! This letter shows quite clearly what I'm doing here. I've come all the way from Australia to see Carnaval. I don't see what the problem is!' I could have been speaking to a bouncer at an Adelaide nightclub. look!

I'm neatly dressed. It's obvious I'm not a troublemaker. I don't see what the problem is!'

An ominous bead of sweat formed across Jorge's troubled brow. Hiro and Yutaka were respectfully silent. One of them had even taken the trouble to take an empty camera case with him. Jorge paused, looked like he might regret it later on, then told us to return with two colour head and shoulder photographs of each of us and our passports.

I had fun getting the passport sized photos in one of those universally recognised booths in a shopping centre. We returned the same day with the necessary photographs/ passports. We were told to return at one o'clock the following day.

Whilst stepping onto the bus, which would take us from the city to Copacabana I was almost pickpocketed. That is, as I stood in the tight line, which ascended the stairs of the bus I discerned a hand feeling the outside of my shorts' right pocket. I quickly turned around with a dagger look, and the people behind me looked vaguely ahead. I was a tourist, but I knew enough Rio survival skills not to carry a wallet in my pocket in public.

That night I went for a walk along Avenida Atlantica and felt depressed. I couldn't put it together. It looked as though I wouldn't get Press Passes for Carnaval for me and my friends. The mission had now taken on great import.

One o'clock the next day, The Three Amigos were at the Press Association.

Carnaval began that very evening, but still no luck. We were told to return at five o'clock.

At five we dutifully returned to the Press Association, but there was no red carpet and there were no Press Passes waiting to greet us. I again became angry over my violated rights and insisted on being given some temporary pass. I barked at Jorge. He looked weary and agreed to let us watch the Carnaval until our Passes were processed. We were told to go to a certain gate and ask for a certain person to be allowed in.

We caught the relevant bus to where we had to go. After seeing the Carnaval in Uruguay, with a few old utes embellished with sponsorship signs, I was amazed by the enormity of the real Carnaval.

The vast bulk of the action took place inside a huge stadium, known as the sambadrome. Even outside the sambadrome, the energy in the air was incredibly contagious. An endless succession of people milled towards the entrance gates. Some of the huge floats to be used in the show were partially visible through openings in the sambadrome walls. They resembled creatures from another world, which in fact they were.

Like VIPs or prisoners, the three of us

BRAZZIL -JUNE 1998

were led through a high security labyrinth to a violin. A team of royal elephants adorn d kilometre track strewn with streamers and the administrative nerve centre of the with gold and textile fineries carrying I other party debris. They deftly wielded sambulrome. After passing the necessary dian princesses on their backs regally sau brooms and efficiently drove their clean security checks, we entered a room full of tered past us. machines down the track. Even this munpeople. Then again, they may have been An army of drummers marched pa t. dane routine was transformed into comic journalists. Three young Brazilian girls in You've never heard drums until you've he d street theatre of epic proportions. For these red costumes with red baseball hats stood hundreds of them playing live in unison I cleaners were given by far the loudest and next to a coffee machine. They looked us was never a great aficionado of drums un il most enthusiastic applause of all the acts, by over and smiled as we glided past them with this moment. The whole point of dru s a sarcastic but good-natured mass audience an air of importance. suddenly made sense. With so many of th:m of partygoers.

We were escorted through a concrete beating out a rhythm as one, I knew w y For it was indeed a party. Unquestionpassageway to a room with a magic ledge they were used in battles of old. It's mu h ably the greatest party I had ever been to. It that enabled screenings of the most magnifi- more than sound. The drums violently rat le was also much more than that. I thought of cent show imaginable. one's soul, and when they do, you're in th ir spectacular celebrations in ancient times in Unlike most cinemas, the room was command, no question. They contend w h honour of royalty and deities, that would wider than it was deep. If you feel inclined your heartbeat, modify your heartbeat d also last for days and involve thousands of to dismantle a small screen from your local ultimately replace your heartbeat. people. It struck me that people attending cinema and then place it on a flat surface And the women! They looked so hap ly such events must have felt a similar sense of (concrete, wood or carpet is acceptable), to be there. Some were enticingly clad. So e awe and ecstasy that washed through me at then you would have an excellent idea of the were enticingly unclad. They all seemed o Carnaval. For it doesn't really matter how dimensions this wide, narrow, magic room notice me. They all seemed to love me. Th-y sophisticated technology becomes at delivoccupied. would look at me and smile broad, Brazili : n ering new forms of entertainment. Virtual The room had no wall in the front, just a mouths. I would wave at them. They wo Id reality, home cinema or any other technometal fence between us and the sambadrome wave back and wink. I couldn't believe it. logical marvel could never compete with the strip outside. There were about a dozen Women never responded in such a positi e, entertainment value of thousands of excited people in the room when we arrived, jour- unambiguous way, especially en masse I people enjoying themselves. I was witnessnalists and photographers from all around fell in love with a good proportion of Braz 1- ing something truly great. There were no the world to capture their impressions ofthis ian womanhood. I admired their sound judt.e- bearded ladies or boxing kangaroos, but I internationally renowned event. There were ment. I admired their unbridled zest for Ii e. had no doubt that I was viewing The GreatFrench and English and God knows what. I I admired their firm, round breasts and per y est Show on Earth. noticed with proud surprise that I was the brown nipples. I admired their soft, shapely Just when my photographers and I had only person representing Australia. Less arses. I admired their barely hidden maps of forgotten we had no official status, a Carnaval surprisingly perhaps, I was one of only three â&#x20AC;˘ Tasmania. I admired the obscenely pow r- official presented the three of us with the people representing 'Memories and Dreams'. ful sexual longing they inspired in me y equivalent of gold Willy Wonka chocolate There was seating, but people only used their seductive movements. I expressed t is wrappers, the pink Press Passes. Jorge had it between acts. When the show was on overwhelming sexual urge by (naturally) come though at last and we now had public everyone would stand up to dance. We were lifting my head to the moon and howling recognition of our role as ambassadors of no exception. We stood near a large fridge like a wolf. Hiro and Yutaka soon realised the Fourth Estate. I gained a new respect for ( the size used by delis to refrigerate ice- the logic of this form of expression and then the obvious efforts of poor beleaguered Jorge blocks) which was stocked with cold beer the three of us were dancing on our seats. and felt guilty over the hard time I had given and cold Guarand soft drink. (Guarand is a howling madly at beautiful women. him. Yet I couldn't help but laugh hysterifruit found only in the rainforests of Brazil.

Don't get me wrong. We waved at v- cally whenever I looked over at the earnest Like William S. Burroughs' mystical Yage, eryone. For everyone was represented n- looking Yutaka or the ineffectual looking it supposedly contains qualities that pro- joying themselves: men, women, straigh s, Hiro with their shiny laminated Press passes duce in the imbiber an euphoric sensation. It gays, blacks, whites, old, young, even th se hung around their necks and resting on their has recently entered the vocabulary of Aus- who were not so easy to label turned in sn chests. Their photographs were on their tralian consumerism, but at the time all I appearance. Whenever groups ofyoung c 1- Passes, as were their roles: Photographers knew was that it tasted great and was uniquely dren danced past us I would give them n â&#x20AC;˘for 'Memories and Dreams' (MAD .) I was Brazilian (definitely a bonus.)) At any rate, especially emphatic round of applause I identified as being a Jornalista for same, but the organisers of Carnaval had magnani- have a particular soft spot for kids and I as my name had mysteriously transformed into mously. supplied this fridge full of cold very moved to see the effort they had gone to Marco Sawns. No problem. I was Marco beverages for the international press to draw in preparing for this huge celebration and Sawns. from at leisure. the excitement on their faces to actually e The first night didn't Finish until around Speaking of soft drinks, soon after we doing it. seven am. It had been going for a good 12 arrived Yutaka was thirsty. He asked the We were treated to some of the m st hours. This was the first year that Carnaval nearest person in the crowd where he could visually exciting dance routines, known as proper didn't extend through the daylight get a drink of Coke from. The man told us to capoeira. Bare-footed black men with log hours. It had finally been decided that even follow him. He led us a fair way, until we white trousers would look like they were Brazilians required some sleep over a five arrived at the back of a tent away from the about to violently kick each other, until the day period, as too many people in previous crowds. He then pulled from out of his 'victim' would move his body to just m ss years had died froman overdose of partying. lacket a bundle of cocaine and said, 'You being kicked and perform an acrobatic feat The 'Memories and Dreams' team made our want coke?' as a response. Bamboo poles were also em- way back to Albergue to rest, in preparation The show began early in the evening. As ployed in this effective Brazilian combina- for Night No. Two. soon as the repetitive but ridiculously infec- tion of martial arts and dance. The dancers It had been a magic day. Before I went to tious sing-along music commenced being were not shy either. As they fought and Carnaval I had met a cute Brazilian girl pumped through the loudspeakers, people danced their way past us, they would hold called Rejane (and her cousin called Nanu) were up on their feet bopping away. We out their arms and smile towards our cam- Rejane had long jet-black hair, dark Brazilwere spellbound as the literally thousands of eras. ian coffee skin and pouting lips painted red people stylishly and proudly danced their A procession would last the better part with lipstick. She was lithe and slender, yet way past our imaginations. of an hour. There would be a break for an had shapely hips. She was warm and sweet The colours and the sights were extraor- hour and then another procession would and spoke with the most endearingly ridicudinary. No details in the costumes and floats begin. This programme sequence continued lous accent. It sounded like a parody of an had been spared. A fifty-foot high gypsy throughout the night. Between each proces- upper-class British accent tempered with with his yellow pants, vividly red embroi- sion, teams of uniformed cleaners and sweep- that strange Brazilian singsong. She would dered vest and gold tiara floated past playing ers would descend on the roughly quarer say in a frightfully proper way, `Thenk yaw'

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

or 'Give me a break!' Instead of the word 'break' being emphasised as it normally is, 'Give me' would be emphasised.

Her cousin Nanu had black hair cut and parted in a college cut. He too had dark skin and pouting lips, lie spoke English.

The day after my initiation into the sacred rites of Carnaval I was on a high. It wasn't enough. I wanted to be on Rejane.

Early evening I invited her to see my room at Albergue. (She was also staying there, but in an all girls dormitory. This segregation, this gender apartheid was presumably to prevent illicit naughties, which was quite ironic considering the openness many Brazilians exhibited in doing the dirty deed with any gender.)

We sat on a lower bunk bed. I leaned over and tried to kiss her. She pushed me back and rejected me. Normally at this point of no returns I try to snatch any remnants of my tattered dignity and walk away dramatically with a surly look. Perhaps it was my uncontested success with other Brazilian girls combined with my success at acquiring the Press Passes, but whatever it was I reacted differently on this occasion. For one of the few occasions in my life, rejection didn't completely devastate me with depression and inertia. I don't knov, what it was, but the rejection didn't make me skip a bongo beat and a strange confidence carried me through. She wondered why I would like her and I assured her that due to her beauty in all arenas (physicality, personality etc.) I genuinely liked her. This brightened her outlook enormously. I again tried to kiss her. This time mission accomplished. Rejane now became very enthusiastic about our kiss. Fireworks exploded, corks popped from bottles of champagne and trams entered dark tunnels.

When Rejane kissed me and validated the image of myself I wanted to entertain, I felt zip-a-dee-doo-dah zip-a-dee-eh. I intuitively felt the rightness of her judgement and fell in love, yet again'.

That same night the 'Memories and Dreams' delegates went to Night Two of Carnaval.

With the know-all certainty of confidence. I could tell that one of the red-uniformed coffee girls in particular had the hots for me ( and I'm not talking about the beverages she was serving). So, I lit a fire.

Wasn't it good? A Brazilian would!

Along with our illustrious Press Passes which we wore with justifiable pride, by Night Two we were presented with Two Press Vests. These vests were a fiery orange, and had branded on them in black, 'Imprensa - Press' and the numbers 455 and 444 respectively. The wearer of the vest could actually do and see more of Carnaval than someone with merely a Press Pass. An Orange Man (or Orange to Scarlet Woman) could bypass security guards and gates to enter the main arena where the action was.

As we were given two Press Vests, the three of us took it in turns to don the orange mantles.

Soon the music, sensual dancing and electric atmosphere were switched on.

Lights! Camera! Action! And they're rac-

58

ing! Thunderbirds are go! Smoking! Smoking? Yes, that's right, smoking. Somewhere on the sambadrome track smoke was billowing (as it would in a sentence of this nature) from one of the enormous floats. Intense flames could soon be discerned.

With my Press Pass, orange vest and camera I naturally made my way to the burning wreck on the sambadrome, like a journalistic moth. One of the huge floats had somehow managed to catch alight. It was soon immersed in hellishly bright orange, yellow and white flames and dirty grey smoke. The facade quickly burnt away to reveal the burning scaffolding, like a lady's cheap underwear exposed to the gaze of the world.

Journalists and others ran around, jostling for the perfect picture to send to Reuters, doing nothing constructive to help. There wasn't a lot we could do. Officials tried to control the natural blaze as best they could and grey uniformed police tried to control the human blaze. There was a swarm of us, curious moths around the fire and we moved as erratically.

I felt slightly scared. I knew not whether the fire would spread even more out of control. I felt in awe of nature's humbling majesty and indisputable power. I felt excited to be at this spontaneous fireworks presentation. I felt excited to be a first-hand witness at this historic occasion, which would become a visually dramatic news item across the world.

Mostly I felt sad.

A paunchy middle-aged man with shorts and a greying beard had a face contorted with rage and pain. He evidently had a personal involvement with the tragic float.

He yelled and even threw futile punches at the policeman who detained him from going too close to the burning wreck. And why not? I had soon learned that Carnaval was more than just an euphoric party to the Brazilians. It was a deeply spiritual ritual which many revolved their lives around.

Many Brazilians would spend 51 weeks of the year designing and making their costumes and rehearsing for the one week that justified the rest of the year.

The float that was destroyed ironically had some kind of arctic theme. Snow and snow wolves had been impressively recreated with paint and probably polystyrene.

The saddest sight I saw after the fire was a wolf thrown mercilessly onto his side onto a heap of refuse. The wolf from the float looked so undignified laying there. It was a savage murder of a proud animal. Lying on his side, he was definitely dead. Yet as part of the parade he held his head high and was undoubtedly very much alive.

The amazing thing was that even though there was this catastrophic mayhem on the track, the people in front of the burning float kept singing and dancing, as did the people behind it. The maxim 'The show must go on!' was never truer than at Carnaval, The Greatest Show on Earth.

Isn't it funny how people can become complacent over even The Greatest Show on Earth? The next night Yutaka, Hiro and I decided not to go to Carnaval Proper, and instead went to Carnaval Improper. We went

dancing in the streets of Copacabana with Rejane, Nanu and a few of their female friends.

Rejane and Nanu danced (to my unschooled eye) exceptionally well. I tried not to get jealous when they danced so intimately together, for after all they were first cousins. Someone 'in the know' tells me that all Latin dance is sexy, and I would not have disagreed seeing the cousins doing the Samba and Lambada together, Rejane in her enticing white cotton shorts. I tried not to get jealous.

The problem was that like Brandon Walsh from 90210, I don't do dancing (not very often anyway). It's not that I don't think I'm a good dancer. I actually think I'm an excellent dancer. It's just that I came to notice a distinct pattern whenever I would dance in a nightclub or any dancing group of people. Namely, soon after I stepped onto the dance floor and did my thing, an everexpanding circle would appear around me.

It eventually became embarrassing and after awhile I stopped dancing. I thought, if those philistines weren't ahead enough of their time to appreciate my unique dance interpretations, it was their loss.

On this particular night in Copacabana I debated whether to look uptight and boring by not joining in, or to risk the slings and arrows of outrageous dancing. I opted to dance, but felt decidedly uncomfortable as a result. Rejane danced so well that I felt intimidated. I felt that I wasn't in such a position of confidence when she could see so clearly what she might perceive as an inadequacy.

With no prompting at all, Rejane began to feed me, just as though I was a baby, her baby. Some may wonder what the big deal was about my being spoon-fed (with a fork), but it is nigh impossible to describe in words how such an apparently trivial gesture utterly moved me. Who would have thought that it would take a harmless morsel of Brazilian pabulum to convince me of what I had suspected for a while now: I was in love with Penelope, er that is, Rejane. I was back in Greece at the point Penelope and I had parted ways, except it was no longer Penelope I had rejoined. I had rejoined Rejane!

Not That I'm Religious Yet I'm as curious as the next man. Of course I wanted to see up close the statue of Cristo Redentor that hovered omnipresently over Rio. It was legendary. It was a part of the Brazilian identity to my way of thinking.

It had appeared in films like Blame It On Rio, and had even done a cameo in a Janet Jackson video clip. No less than the inventor of radio, Marconi, designed the lighting to illuminate this statue of Christ. It was a Hollywood icon. I had to have a squiz.

So, it was me, Rejane, Nanu, Hiro, Yutaka, Tamio, and two of Rejane's female friends who formed the expedition party to that tourist mecca on that unusually cloudy Rio day.

These excerpts were taken from Brazilian Booty, a book published in Australia. You can get in touch with the author, Michael X Savvas, at

msavvasAusa.net

BRAZZIL - JUNE 1998

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