Boutique Magazine September 2023

SEPTEMBER 2023

BUSINESS SENSE FOR FASHION RETAILERS

Autumn upgrades

Hybrid workwear Inside Doodie Stark Star Awards shortlist Cosy accessories

ISSUE 154

CLOTHES FOR JOYFUL LIVING

Welcome to our most sustainable collection to date with bespoke printed fabrics and textured knits sat alongside plain outfitters. To view the range, please contact your local agent or get in touch with us using the contact details below. orders@lilyandmeclothing.com

lilyandme.com

+44(0) 1452 207 766

EDITOR’S LETTER

Seeing stars

EDITOR Gemma Ward gemma@bpmedialtd.co.uk PRINT AND ONLINE SALES Julie Neill – julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk Tel 01795 515288 Tel 07960797383 DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Jack Witcomb – jack@bpmedialtd.co.uk CREDIT CONTROL Jilly Barker - Jilly@bpmedialtd.co.uk PUBLISHERS Julie Neill MANAGING DIRECTOR Julie Neill © 2022 Boutique Professional Media Ltd, Office 2, The Old Stable Block, Crescent Road, Faversham, Kent ME13 7GU. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form – electronic, mechanical or physical – without express prior permission and written consent of the publisher. Contributions are invited and when not accepted will be returned only if accompanied by a fully stamped and addressed envelope.

Manuscripts should be type written. No responsibility can be taken for drawings, photographs or literary contributions during transmission or in the editor’s hands. In the absence of an agreement the copyright of all contributions, literary, photographic or artistic, belongs to Boutique Professional Media. The publisher accepts no responsibility in respect of advertisements appearing in the magazine and the opinions expressed do not necessarily represent the views of the Publisher. The Publisher cannot accept liability for any loss arising from the late appearance or non publication of any advertisement.

ON THE COVER:

Image courtesy of Notes du Nord; E: sales@notesdunord.com notesdunord.com

E

ntries closed for the Boutique Star Awards 2023 earlier this month and we’ve been absolutely bowled over by the submissions.

The finalists for this year’s competition are all outstanding and it’s going to be a very difficult task for our judges to decide on the ultimate winners. Turn to page 12 to find out who’s made the shortlist. We’d like to thank every person who took the time to send in a nomination or entry. As ever, it’s been so inspiring to read about some of the amazing businesses in this industry.

We originally launched the Boutique Star Awards in 2019 to celebrate independent fashion retailers and their suppliers. Last year the winners’ party took place at London’s May Fair Hotel, where industry insiders gathered to raise their glasses to all the finalists. For 2023, we’re planning an even bigger and glitzier event at the same iconic venue. However, this time we’ll be taking over the hotel’s ballroominspired Crystal Room - providing a sensational backdrop for what’s sure to be a memorable event. The party takes place on Thursday 9 November and tickets are on sale now – turn to page 11 to find out more.

Inspiring businesses is a running theme throughout this issue as we highlight some of the best new SHOP SHOP TALK TALK

Destination Destinationretail retail REVEALING REVEALING THETHE STORY STORY BEHIND BEHIND HERHER STRIKING STRIKING NEWNEW STORE, STORE, DOODIE DOODIE STARK STARK FOUNDER FOUNDER LIZ LIZ JEFFERSON JEFFERSON TALKS TALKS TO GEMMA TO GEMMA WARD WARD ABOUT ABOUT BUYING, BUYING, SELLING SELLING ANDAND RENOVATING RENOVATING

LL

iz Jefferson iz Jefferson is palpably is palpably windows, peeling peeling paintwork paintwork and and to walk to through walk through the door the every door every day,” day,”windows, excited excited aboutabout the latest the latest decades of dirt, of she dirt,knew she knew it wasit was says the saysfounder, the founder, who designed who designed the the decades opening opening for herfor womenswear her womenswear the one: the“As one:soon “As as soon we as saw wethe saw the airy space airy space with her withhusband, her husband, Rupert.

Rupert. indie group, indie group, Doodie Doodie Stark.Stark. “Seeing Bakehouse, Bakehouse, we wanted we wanted it,” sheit,”says. she says.

“Seeing what we’ve what we’ve managed managed to to It’s theIt’s second the second homehome for thefor retailer’s the retailer’s achieve “But there were two wereother two other parts parts to to achieve with this withunique this unique shop fills shop fills “But there shop in shop Lindfield, in Lindfield, Sussex, Sussex, and joins and joins me with the plot thethat plotwe that didn’t we didn’t want: want: an oldan old me so with much so much pride.”pride.” another another six-year-old six-year-old store in store Horsham. in Horsham. run-down run-down househouse and small and small high high A new home home But this Butnew thisaddition new addition to theto family the family is isA new streetstreet shop. shop.

Unfortunately, Unfortunately, the seller the seller The building The building itself, itself, once quite once quite extra special. extra special. wasn’twasn’t prepared prepared to let to us let buyusthe buy the literally literally the place the place a baker a baker wouldwould building Set inside Set inside a completely a completely reimagined reimagined building on itson own, its so own, weso had wetohad to breadbread to selltoinsell theinshop the in shop in take atake former former bakehouse, bakehouse, the new the1,720sq new 1,720sqmake make hugea risk hugeand riskpurchase and purchase all all was derelict was derelict when when Liz first Liz first three three ft Grand ft Grand Designs-style Designs-style destination destination front,front, properties. properties.

Thankfully, Thankfully, we we her heart on it in onJanuary it in January last last managed store is store the isstuff the independent stuff independent retail retail set hersetheart managed to selltoonsell theonother the other parts parts year. However, despite despite the smashed the smashedquickyquicky dreams dreams are made are made of. “I’m of.so “I’m excited so excitedyear. However, to fund to our fundrenovations.” our renovations.” | SEPTEMBER | SEPTEMBER 56 | boutique.

56 | boutique.

2023 2023

launches, collections and brands.

In this month’s Shop Talk section, we speak to Doodie Stark founder Liz Jefferson about her stunning new store. Located in the retail group’s original home of Lindfield in Sussex, it features an interior that wouldn’t look out of place on Grand Designs with a u-shaped shop floor and serene outdoor courtyard.

Its home is a former derelict bakehouse, which underwent a radical transformation led by Liz and her husband, Rupert. The result is absolutely breathtaking - turn to page 55 for more.

With the autumnal equinox coming up later this month, we also pick out some cosy homeware and accessories brands on pages 28-29.

And for anyone who’s got the ‘back to school’ feeling, don’t miss our hybrid-working edit on pages 34-35.

Gemma Ward, Editor Follow us on Instagram @boutique.magazine SHOP SHOP TALK TALK

on theonbody, the body, noticed noticed that I’m thatvery I’m very tall, so tall, asked so asked if he could if he could pin and pin and cut garments cut garments on me.” on me.”

Liz spent Liz spent hourshours each day each day watching watching him work. him work.

And once And once her placement her placement finished, finished, she was she was offered offered a permanent a permanent position position for for post-graduation: post-graduation: “After“After university university I wentI went to work to work there there full-time. full-time.

The role Thecovered role covered all aspects all aspects of of production production - from- from ordering ordering fabrics fabrics and trims and trims to distributing to distributing samples samples and collections. and collections.

I alsoImonitored also monitored the progress the progress and quality and quality control control of collections of collections to meet to meet delivery delivery deadlines deadlines into stores.” into stores.”

ThoseThose were were the days the when days when LindaLinda Evangelista, Evangelista, Christy Christy Turlington Turlington and Naomi and Naomi Campbell Campbell were were walking walking the catwalk the catwalk - and-Liz andgot Liztogot attend to attend all theallshows the shows too, either too, either helping helping to dress to dress the models the models or seating or seating the the press.press.

“It was “Itsuch was such an exciting an exciting time,”time,” she says. she says.

“I even “I even mademade accessories accessories for some for some of theofshows the shows and stepped and stepped in as in a model as a model during during rehearsals. rehearsals.

Sometimes Sometimes I hadItohad to pinchpinch myself myself that Ithat hadIsuch had such an an amazing amazing job.” job.”

In 1996, In 1996, whenwhen Galliano Galliano left left the UK thetoUK work to work for Dior, for Dior, Liz was Liz was appointed appointed as production as production manager manager for diffusion for diffusion label label Galliano Galliano Genes.

Genes.

TodayToday the original the original Bakehouse Bakehouse with the She moved then moved into the intosales the sales witharea’s the area’s historic historic buildings. buildings. She then building building is completely is completely side theofindustry, the industry, working working as as And although And although hidden hidden from from the the side of unrecognisable. unrecognisable.

Working Working with with high street’s a distributor for Valentino for Valentino JeansJeans high street’s main main thoroughfare, thoroughfare, a distributor a local a local architect architect and team and team of of UK from UK from a showroom a showroom on South on South its strikingly its strikingly dramatic dramatic façadefaçade builders, builders, it underwent it underwent 10 long 10 long has been Molten Street: Street: “At that “At time that time it wasit was has been designed designed to capture to capture the the Molten months months of transformation. of transformation.

Two Two imagination one ofone theofbest the jeans best jeans collections collections imagination of approaching of approaching visitors visitors brandbrand new ‘wings’ new ‘wings’ were were addedadded in true around around and Iand soldI to sold thetoUK’s the UK’s in destination true destination store store style. style. onto onto the structure’s the structure’s original original shell,shell, biggest biggest buyers buyers – it was – itfantastic was fantastic Career Career highlights highlights creating creating a contemporary a contemporary u-shaped u-shaped experience,” experience,” she says. she says.

Liz’s journey to becoming to becoming an indie an indie Later Later shop shop floor.floor.

That That now surrounds now surrounds Liz’s journey Liz started Liz started working working for for retail retail ownerowner is justisasjust impressive as impressive mid-market a serene a serene outdoor outdoor courtyard courtyard mid-market brands brands such as such Sticky as Sticky the Doodie new Doodie Stark.Stark.

After After Fingers area laid areawith laid stone with stone tiles, tiles, comfycomfy as theasnew Fingers and Great and Great Plains, Plains, wherewhere she she studying studying clothing clothing technology technology seating, seating, luscious luscious plantsplants and and “learned “learned how to how be to commercial.” be commercial.” and management and management at theatLondon the London This experience a spa-like a spa-like waterwater feature. feature.

“We “We This experience essentially essentially helped helped College of Fashion, of Fashion, she landed she landed lay the drew drew inspiration inspiration from from beautiful beautiful College layperfect the perfect foundations foundations for for theasassistant the assistant to John to John Californian Californian storesstores such such as James as James a job aasjob her career her career as a retailer: as a retailer: “I worked “I worked Galliano’s production production manager manager with the Perse,Perse, whichwhich incorporate incorporate outdoor outdoorGalliano’s withdesigners the designers to ensure to ensure everyevery during the heady the heady supermodel supermodel areas,” areas,” Liz says.

Liz says.

“Then, “Then, for the for the during sample sample was the wasperfect the perfect shape,shape, fit, fit, era.getting But getting the job theturned job turned interior, interior, we looked we looked to some to some of ourof ourera. But price price pointpoint and colour and colour to maximise to maximise out toout be to slightly be slightly more more ‘hands ‘hands on’ on’ sales.sales. favourite favourite retailers retailers in Copenhagen.” in Copenhagen.”

I alsoIlooked also looked after after several several than she’d expected: expected: “I began “I began as a as a large large The new The shop’s new shop’s modern modern barn-barn- than she’d department department storesstores such as such as pattern cuttercutter on a work on a work experience experience style exterior, style exterior, finished finished with brick with brick pattern Fenwicks Fenwicks and Bentalls, and Bentalls, learning learning the the placement,” she says. she says.

“But John “But John importance slips and slipsblack and black wooden wooden cladding, cladding, placement,” importance of reporting, of reporting, analysing analysing Galliano, Galliano, who does who adoes lot of a lot cutting of cuttingsales sales is stillisvery still much very much in-keeping in-keeping figures figures and budgeting.” and budgeting.” | boutique. | boutique. | 57 | 57 SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER 2023 2023

FASHION FIX

Party perfect

Available on short order, Goddiva’s elegant occasionwear combines luxe fabrics, striking silhouettes and exquisite details to offer red carpet-inspired looks at a fraction of the cost. Order online for speedy delivery to your store.

Average price £30 each, minimum order £150; Tel: 0208 597 2744 citygoddess.co.uk E: support@citygoddess.co.uk

Have a heart

Made from luxurious organic jersey, Chalk’s super-soft Louise heart emblem t-shirt is the perfect layering piece for stylish autumn wardrobes. Available in five colourways; 2pk £16; wholesale.chalkuk.com

Boutique loves…

MUST-HAVE FASHION BUYS TO SEDUCE SHOPPERS THIS AW23

Spring glamour

From feminine tailoring to flirty dresses, womenswear label Taifun adds quirky twists to everyday staples. For SS24, buyers can expect monthly newness arriving from January with figure-flattering suits, special occasion jumpsuits and stylish coordinates taking centre stage. From £70 for tops and blouses; Tel: 0207 436 8383/ 0777 592 3353 E: beau.scarlett-pitt@gerryweber. com gerryweber.com/en-eu/brands/taifun

Mermaidcore

Nodding to one of the biggest trends of 2023, Samsøe Samsøe’s emerald sequinned Sally dress is the perfect party season showstopper for aspiring mermaids. Landing in stores from October; £POA; E: vitus@samsoe.com

The One

Featuring a cool reworking of its iconic sneaker design, Wushu Ruyi’s limited edition The One trainer boasts a sporty shape, re-sized embroidered logo and embossed rubber sole. £POA; E: tanya.auburncollective@gmail.com auburncollective.co.uk 18 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

SEPTEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 3

W E C A R E W H AT Y O U W E A R To view UK showroom dates and show venues near you please visit www.godske.com/g-en/trade-shows GODSKE GROUP, LONDON SHOWROOM, Ground Floor, Great Titchfield House, 14-18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD TEL: 0207-636 3063 | FAX: 0207-636 3863 | EMAIL: pug@godske.com

To view UK showroom dates and show venues near you please visit www.godske.com/g-en/trade-shows GODSKE GROUP, LONDON SHOWROOM, Ground Floor, Great Titchfield House, 14-18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD TEL: 0207-636 3063 | FAX: 0207-636 3863 | EMAIL: pug@godske.com

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SEPTEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 9

To view the full collection and digital catalogue visit our website

www.dantejewellery.co.uk

returns policy if an item is not what you expected via our Freepost address

T: 01260 226 588 Email: info@ dantejewellery.co.uk No minimum for online orders and no-quibble

www.dantejewellery.co.uk

T: 01260 226 588

FASHION FIX

Fashion Fix

ESSENTIAL NEWS FOR FASHION INDIES

THE MAY FAIR HOTEL CRYSTAL ROOM

T

Tickets now on sale for the Boutique Star Awards 2023 winners’ party

ickets for the Boutique Star Awards 2023 winners’ party are now available to purchase. The special industry event, taking place on Thursday 9 November, will be held inside the Crystal Room at London’s May Fair Hotel. Guests will be served welcome drinks followed by a threecourse feast with wine before attending a glittering awards ceremony and DJ after party.

Television presenter Hayley Sparkes will return as compère this year to present trophies to the winners of 16 different categories. Retailer awards include Fashion Independent of the Year, Social Media Strategy of the Year and Community Hero of the Year while supplier categories include British Brand of the Year and Female Founded Brand of the Year. Three nominationonly awards – Lifetime Achievement,

Newcomer and Outstanding Business – will also be announced on the evening in recognition of this year’s most exceptional individuals.

“The Boutique Star Awards winners’ party is such a fun annual event and a great way to celebrate the year before the hectic festive season begins,” says Boutique magazine publisher Julie Neill. “We have an fantastic evening planned inside the May Fair’s stunning ballroom-style Crystal Room. As well as announcing the award winners, it’s also a lovely opportunity for everyone to get together and raise their glasses to all the exceptional people working behind the scenes in this industry. It’s going to be a night to remember, and we can’t wait to see you all to celebrate your achievements.”

The Boutique Star Awards first started in 2019 awarding 12 trophies to leading indie retailers and

suppliers. After a two-year hiatus, the competition returned in 2022 with the winners’ party taking place in the May Fair Hotel’s Danziger Suite.

Fashion independents scooping awards included Biscuit Clothing and Living for Womenswear Independent of the Year, Chloe James Lifestyle for Social Media Strategy of the Year and The Pantry for Independent Group of the Year. Winning suppliers included From My Mother’s Garden for British Brand of the Year and Nudea for Sustainable Brand of the Year while Scream Pretty was named Accessories/ Footwear Brand of the Year.

Turn to the next page for 2023’s shortlist...

Boutique Star Awards 2023 winners’ party tickets cost £190 each; E: julie@ bpmedialtd.co.uk to book or visit boutique-magazine.co.uk/buy-tickets for more information.

SEPTEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 11

FASHION FIX

Shortlist announced for Boutique Star Awards 2023 The shortlist for this year’s Boutique Star Awards has been revealed with over 20 leading fashion independents selected as finalists. Young Ideas, Domino Style, Doodie Stark and Kiti are among those up for awards while brands including Pomodoro, Coti Vision, Campo Marzio and Wushu Ruyi have also been shortlisted.

Since launching in 2019, the Boutique Star Awards is a celebration of the industry’s best independent

retailers and suppliers. This year’s winners will be announced on Thursday 9 November at a celebratory party at London’s May Fair Hotel. Event tickets are now on sale via boutique-magazine.co.uk/buy-tickets and cost £190 each.

Attendees will enjoy welcome drinks followed by a three-course feast with wine in its Crystal Room, an awards ceremony hosted by television presenter Hayley Sparkes and a DJ after party.

BOUTIQUE STAR AWARDS 2023 SHORTLIST RETAILERS Fashion Independent of the Year Artichoke Collen and Clare Cuckoo Boutique Domino Style Dragonfly Boutique Kiti Niche Renes Fashion The Pantry Underwear Velvet Ladieswear Very Stylish Girl Young Ideas Quattro Rish Independent Group of the Year Domino Style Doodie Stark The Pantry Underwear Velvet Ladieswear Young Ideas Creative VM Independent of the Year Cuckoo Boutique Doodie Stark Eyestyle Studio MinimuMaximuM Velvet Ladieswear Social Media Strategy of the Year Collen and Clare Domino Style Kiti Maisie K 12 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

The Pantry Underwear Young Ideas Quattro Rish New Independent Retailer of the Year Elouise Boutique JB and Boom Lifestyle Battle MinimuMaximuM Split Figs Community Hero of the Year Angie Huddard, Angi Lou Boutique Anne Wright, Young Ideas Mandy Errington, DJV Boutique Shirley Leader, Velvet and Rose

SUPPLIERS British Brand of the Year Goddiva From My Mother’s Garden Pomodoro The Bamboo Wardrobe International Brand of the Year Alquema Caprice Foil Orientique Tara Vao Fashion Agency of the Year Carol C Collections Apt Collections The Brand Ambassador Palladio

Fashion Distributor of the Year Carol C Collections Pomodoro City Goddess Female Founded Brand of the Year Claire Hill Designs Coti Vision From My Mother’s Garden Naia Beach Scream Pretty The Bamboo Wardrobe Accessories/ Footwear Brand of the Year Campo Marzio Caprice Claire Hill Designs Coti Vision Wushu Ruyi Sustainable Brand of the Year by basics Maeva Rae Nudea Outerknown The Bamboo Wardrobe

NOMINATIONS (Finalists will be notified prior to the awards evening) Lifetime Achievement Newcomer Outstanding Business

Tickets Now on sale Date:

9th November 2023

Venue:

The May Fair Hotel London

Welcome drinks 3 course dinner with wine Tea/coffee and petit fours Awards ceremony DJ after party

Tickets £190

Book now: Please email: Julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk

FASHION FIX

Boutique barometer INDUSTRY SALES FIGURES JULY 2023 (VERSUS JULY 2022)

Pure London to merge with JATC at Olympia from February 2024 Pure London and Just Around the Corner (JATC) have announced both shows will unite at Olympia for the first time in February 2024, creating a “milestone fashion buying event” for the UK trade show scene.

The collaborative show will present 300 brands under one roof in Olympia’s main Grand Hall and upstairs Gallery spaces.

Organiser Hyve Group said in a statement that the merger will offer buyers “a transformed show with an increased number of aspirational designers and brands.”

Buyers will also be able to visit Scoop at Olympia West while The Fashion Huddle is also expected to take place in nearby Hammersmith over the same dates.

Event director Gloria Sandrucci comments: “This is a landmark development in the history of these

two fashion shows driven by the vision and desire to make buying easier and better for buyers.

“By uniting with JATC, the combined teams can pool their expertise, resources and network to create the leading fashion trade show experience, meeting the needs of buyers and offering the very best collection of brands under one iconic roof.”

JATC founder Juls Dawson, who has taken on the role of creative director for Pure London x JATC, adds: “I am excited to be uniting with Pure London to bring in a new era for our community and create a compelling, inclusive, and unified platform for the industry. For us, this is a truly exciting next step in the journey of JATC.” The first edition of Pure London x JATC will take place at Olympia London from 11-13 February 2024.

-14.4% Average sales quantity

+ 5.9% Average selling price

-6.99% Profit margin These figures represent findings from a cross section of independent online and bricks-and-mortar retailers around the UK. Total stock management and EPoS provider Top to Toe has compiled this industry index to offer Boutique readers an insight into what’s happening on the high street and online.

Tel: 0203 376 5888 E: info@toptotoe.com Toptotoe.com

Small & Mighty Enterprise relaunches offering free support for micro firms Small Business Britain is expanding its Small and Mighty Enterprise Programme to help 1,000 more small businesses across the UK. The digital learning programme – offered in partnership with global small business platform Xero and new university ARU Peterborough – is completely free to sole traders and micro businesses.

The six-week course aims to offer targeted skills support for small firms that aren’t eligible for 14 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

other schemes. Delivered entirely online, guidance is offered from ARU Peterborough academics and other expert trainers.

Entrepreneurs receive weekly expert teaching on topics from business strategy and marketing to finance and resilience guidance on the new Making Tax Digital legislation. Each business on the programme will also have access to a supportive online network of small business owners as well as former alumni.

MIKE PETRUCCI ON UNSPLASH

Visit smallbusinessbritain.uk/smalland-mighty to find out more.

FASHION FIX

September sunshine

British independent brand From My Mother’s Garden produces floral-festooned womenswear and accessories available for immediate delivery.

Its Cherry Blossom Long Robe is perfect for late summer and will instantly elevate a pair of jeans. £POA; Tel: 07825 148 040 E: info@frommymothersgarden.co.uk

Leather luxe

Sustainably crafted by hand in Italy using conscious materials, Vivien Lauren’s luxury bags, footwear, shawls and scarves will bring instant glamour to your accessories edit. Standout styles for AW23 include elegant heeled boots, exquisitely made leather totes and super-soft pashminas. £POA; Tel: 07432 138 134 E: info@vivienlauren.co.uk vivienlauren.co.uk

French flair

Established for over 130 years, French brand Saint James reinvents timeless staples every season to help shoppers create the ultimate off-duty wardrobes. From its famous Breton stripe t-shirts to cotton knitwear, its collection offers the perfect options for everyday chic. £POA; Tel: 0203 432 6387 E: sales@doublehagency.com

THIS MONTH’S STANDOUT WOMENSWEAR AND ACCESSORIES

Music to your ears

Reminisce about the good old days with Scream Pretty’s retro Mix Tape Charm Hoop Earrings.

Featuring intricately detailed charms suspended from a polished hoop earring, they evoke a sense of vintage nostalgia while bringing musical flair to your ears. Available in sterling silver with rhodium or 18ct gold plating, £18.50; tradescreampretty.com

The neck's best thing

British female-founded brand Coti Vision has revolutionised the glasses market with its trendled necklace reading glasses and chains. Its range includes chains, cords and holders in numerous designs. Each style can even be worn solo without glasses, too. Free display stand included with first order, from £7.50 - £35 each; E: info@cotivision.com cotivision.com 16 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

Stephen Joseph | T 07734 247 669 | info@capriceshoes.co.uk capriceshoes

capricefootwear

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FASHION FIX

Party perfect

Available on short order, Goddiva’s elegant occasionwear combines luxe fabrics, striking silhouettes and exquisite details to offer red carpet-inspired looks at a fraction of the cost. Order online for speedy delivery to your store.

Average price £30 each, minimum order £150; Tel: 0208 597 2744 citygoddess.co.uk E: support@citygoddess.co.uk

Have a heart

Made from luxurious organic jersey, Chalk’s super-soft Louise heart emblem t-shirt is the perfect layering piece for stylish autumn wardrobes. Available in five colourways; 2pk £16; wholesale.chalkuk.com

Boutique loves…

MUST-HAVE FASHION BUYS TO SEDUCE SHOPPERS THIS AW23

Spring glamour

From feminine tailoring to flirty dresses, womenswear label Taifun adds quirky twists to everyday staples. For SS24, buyers can expect monthly newness arriving from January with figure-flattering suits, special occasion jumpsuits and stylish coordinates taking centre stage. From £70 for tops and blouses; Tel: 0207 436 8383/ 0777 592 3353 E: beau.scarlett-pitt@gerryweber. com gerryweber.com/en-eu/brands/taifun

Mermaidcore

Nodding to one of the biggest trends of 2023, Samsøe Samsøe’s emerald sequinned Sally dress is the perfect party season showstopper for aspiring mermaids. Landing in stores from October; £POA; E: vitus@samsoe.com

The One

Featuring a cool reworking of its iconic sneaker design, Wushu Ruyi’s limited edition The One trainer boasts a sporty shape, re-sized embroidered logo and embossed rubber sole. £POA; E: tanya.auburncollective@gmail.com auburncollective.co.uk 18 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

We want to be your next SS24

Visit our London Showroom

Book now your appointment for SS24 marc@doublehagency.com 07539228041

www.doublehagency.com

FASHION FIX

Weekend ready

Sustainably made for adventure using 100 per cent recycled plastic bottles, Kind Bag’s new Weekender is the perfect choice for overnight trips. Choose from three different prints to make travelling just as stylish as the outfits packed inside. £POA; E: hello@kindbag.co

Slow fashion

From handloom textiles to intricate embroideries, Nomads produces ethical clothing using GOTS certified organic cotton and natural fibres. Its garments are skilfully crafted by artisan producers working from Fair Trade factories in India. £POA; Tel: 01566 777 567 nomadsclothing.com

Eco chic SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS AND BRANDS

In neutral

Crafted in a cosy recycled wool blend, Munthe’s Eluna scarf comes in a versatile neutral hue that will complement any coat or jacket. £POA; E: hlm@munthe.com

See things differently

Hand-made in Japan in micro-batches, the AvantGuard’s luxury sustainable sunglasses feature premium bio-degradable acetate frames and premium ultra-lightweight lenses. £POA; E: dave@beachave.com.au

20 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

To a tee

Made from merino wool sourced from regenerative New Zealand farms and then knitted with solar-powered zero-waste machines, Sheep Inc’s seamless carbon negative Ultra Light T-Shirt is the perfect all-season layering essential. £POA; E: theflock@sheepinc.com sheepinc.com

EVERYTHING IS MADE TO ORDER NO MINIMUM MIX AND MATCH YOUR OWN COLLECTION #BYBASICS

FASHION FIX

#Grid goals

TOP POSTS WE’VE LIKED ON THE ‘GRAM THIS MONTH

@twentypetworth

“As we close the doors to our Petworth store, we want to say a huge, huge thank you to everyone who has supported us. What a truly fabulous 20 years of fashion it has been…”

@julsdawson

Such exciting news today for @jatcevents and @purelondonshow coming together for what’s going to be an amazing joined up event for all the industry…”

@alluringboutique_elgin

“We are 6 years old. We will never take any of this for granted. It’s not easy for us…but we do it because we thrive on it and want to bring something to the local community…”

@dominostyle65

“IT’S BACK!!! #sweaterweather a new season wouldn’t be complete without this video… WATCH UNTIL THE END… putting the fun into fashion always!”

Social butterflies

THREE INSPIRATIONAL INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS TO FOLLOW NOW

@nobodyschild

@wushuoffical

@dressedbydeeltd

Now available for UK fashion indies to stock via Just a Group, sustainable label Nobody’s Child offers affordable womenswear for conscious shoppers.

Follow cult Italian trainers brand Wushu Ruyi on Instagram for regular updates on its colourful and iconic sneaker styles for stylish men and women.

Dressed by Dee owner Denise Cheasley shares daily updates on the latest products and developments from her colourful Kent-based boutique.

22 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

Visit us and find our new Summer 24 collection Footwear Today Live! / 03 - 04th Sep / Motorcycle Museum / Birmingham London Shoe Show / 10 - 11th Sep / Ibis Earls Court Contact Gus Marshall: 07935 648070 / Email gus@crosbyshoeagencies.co.uk

screampretty.com tradescreampretty.com 01753 424160 | sales@screampretty.com 10% OFF your first order with HELLO10* *minimum order value applies

Stock Up

WHAT TO BUY NOW

Working it

S

eptember calls for a new work wardrobe. So, whether customers are looking for hybrid-friendly options or full-on power pieces, we round up some of the best back-to-the-office options for AW23…

ATP ATELIER AW23 SEPTEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 25

PROMOTION called Parcel Collect. Posties come and pick up returns from doorsteps, safeplaces or workplaces at no extra cost. They even bring the returns label, so retailers don’t have to send one out with every order. Plus, as they collect at the same time as they deliver, it prevents additional journeys - meaning fewer emissions and less congestion. On top of all that, there’s our 85,000 trusted posties - who can deliver to every UK address - working as the local, safe pair of hands representing small businesses and upholding their great customer service at the doorstep.

“When deliveries really matter, it has to be Royal Mail” ROYAL MAIL’S JON NICHOLSON REVEALS WHAT RETAILERS CAN EXPECT FROM ITS NEW AND IMPROVED SERVICES THIS CHRISTMAS

A

s retailers get ready for the festive rush, Royal Mail has unveiled new service enhancements to get parcels to shoppers faster and easier. Here we speak to UK sales director Jon Nicholson about its latest services and developments…

Is Royal Mail prepared for retail’s busiest season?

Yes! We’ve already put new capacity, tech and service enhancements in place ahead of time, and we’ll be onboarding extra seasonal staff and vans throughout November and December to tackle festive orders.

What’s different this year?

A lot has changed. We’ve opened up a new Super Hub that can sort an extra 850,000 parcels a day, so there’s lots more capacity in the network and we’re much more robust this year.

Online shopping never sleeps, so we also now deliver on Sundays – and at no extra cost than any other 26 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

day. If retailers offer Royal Mail Tracked 24® or Special Delivery Guaranteed, their customers can even order on a Saturday and receive it the next day! It’s great for boosting those last-minute Christmas orders and keeping smaller retailers competitive. And if shoppers aren’t at home, and a safeplace or neighbour isn’t available, we now auto-redeliver as standard so retailers don’t have to deal with as many enquiries.

How are you working to make Christmas easier for small businesses?

We know that great value is really important for consumers and small businesses alike in the current climate, so we’ve introduced more competitive rates for Tracked parcels up to 30kg, and increased compensation up to £150.

Returns are at their highest after Christmas, and we want returns to be as easy and convenient as possible for retailers and their shoppers. So, we’re now offering free collection of Tracked Returns through our service

Why should retailers consider using Royal Mail’s services this Christmas?

We’re really proud to be the UK’s greenest delivery partner*, with the lowest recorded emissions per parcel. So we’re a great choice for any fashion business looking to make their supply chain more sustainable - which is still, alongside value, a major consideration for many consumers. And we’re the most trusted carrier among major UK delivery companies too**! When deliveries really matter, and at Christmas they perhaps matter more than any other time of year, it has to be Royal Mail. *Based on publicly available average reported gCO2e per parcel from other UK parcel operators. **Mintel Online Retailing Consumer Report 2023. Research conducted with online shoppers.

To find out more about Royal Mail’s reliable delivery and return options for independent fashion businesses, scan the code or visit royalmail.com/boutique

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SS/24 14–16 Jan 2024 Olympia, London

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Register Now topdrawer.co.uk

Stories

AW/23 10–12 Sep 2023 Olympia, London

STOCK UP

Autumn updates REFRESH YOUR ACCESSORIES AND HOMEWARE EDIT WITH THESE IRRESISTIBLE SHORT ORDER BRANDS

PRUE BY ZSISKA

MAEVA RAE CHALK

Offering a capsule range of UK-designed homewares and accessories, British label Chalk offers quality cushions, throws, rugs, doorstops and baskets in natural fabrics and pared back tones. Its products can be ordered anytime throughout the season, with deliveries arriving in store within five to seven days on average. For AW23 the brand’s home collection includes knitted blankets, waffle throws, velvet cushions and faux fur hot water bottle covers. Meanwhile, its home fragrance and skincare ranges are made in the UK and packaged in recyclable amber glass, offering a sustainable option for boutiques.

CONTACT: chalkuk.com/wholesale 28 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

Launched in 2022 by mother-anddaughter duo Frances Prescott and Scarlet Arden, home fragrance brand Maeva Rae offers a capsule collection of sustainable candles in three mood-boosting scents.

Its products are made using eco-friendly soy wax and hemp wicks, then packaged in recyclable glass jars and card boxes printed with vegetable ink. Its hero Calm fragrance features sweet basil to alleviate tension and vanilla to improve sleep as well as green leaves, anise star, spearmint, gaiac wood and clove. There’s also a Candle Trio offering smaller versions of all its scents, which will make the ideal gift idea this Christmas.

CONTACT: Tel: 07432 119 937 E: scarlet@maevarae.com

Known for her penchant for brightly coloured jewellery, British Bake Off star Dame Prue Leith has teamed up with Zsiska to create a vibrant new jewellery collection.

The exclusive range encompasses 224 handmade resin styles within five different collections named after Greek Goddesses. Each offers vibrant coloured necklaces, rings, earrings and bracelets with retail prices ranging from £36 to £209. Created by Dutch jewellery designer Siska Schippers, Zsiska’s jewellery is handmade in Thailand using a rare two to three step painting and coating process making each piece unique. The Prue by Zsiska collection will be available to order at Scotland’s Trade Fair (20-21 August) and Top Drawer (10-12 September).

CONTACT: E: sales@zsiska.com/ sigal@sigaldistribution.com sigaldistribution.com

STOCK UP

CAMPO MARZIO

ONE HUNDRED STARS

With a focus on affordable luxury, family-run One Hundred Stars creates timeless pieces with strong ethics at its core. The label first launched in 2014 offering a range of one size and duo size garments that appeal to a wide demographic. Best known for its striking printed kaftans, its collection also includes beautiful homewares such as bedspreads, throws, lampshades and pillow shams. Buyers can expect premium sustainable fabrics throughout the range including bemberg, cupro, lenzing modal and recycled viscose while it also repurposes excess fabric. For AW23 its line-up is bursting with colourful prints with standout cosy homeware styles including the Acer Green bedspread (pictured), Kew Passionflower velvet throw and its Jaipur Blue linen panel curtains.

Wholesale prices are around £30 on average while the minimum order requirement is £400.

CONTACT: Tel: 01142 727 852 E: sales@onehundredstars.co.uk

Established in the heart of Rome in 1933, award-winning brand Campo Marzio brings colour, joy and vibrancy to everyday occasions with its luxury designer handbags, pens and accessories. Buyers can choose from a comprehensive line-up of premium bags for affordable price points – from trendy totes to functional yet stylish backpacks.

With a strong focus on colour, many feature contrasting and complementing colour trims that give its collections a real point of difference. Standout lines for 2023 includes its fresh Bloom collection, the vibrant Colourful collection and the award-winning Glam collection, featuring products made using recycled plastics. Shoppers will love its versatile Blair bag that’s perfect for wearing day to night, its delicate yet strong Harriet and the threein-one Renee clutch, which can be worn as a shoulder bag, clutch or wallet. Wholesale prices are around £37 per piece on average while there is no minimum order requirement for stockists.

CONTACT: Tel: 07973 718 301 campomarzio.uk

DANTE

Renowned for its colourful designs, Dante offers an extensive collection of high-quality jewellery designed to complement the latest womenswear collections. Buyers can choose from a wide selection of designs via its catalogue or website while the company also offers its stockists exclusivity in their main postcode. For AW23, its range offers a huge choice of pieces from small solitaire earrings and colourful pearls to easy daywear necklaces, clip and pierced earrings and chunky statement necklaces.

This season’s colour palette includes rich tones of blue, berry, purple, brown, ochre, orange and green alongside animal prints.

The brand invests heavily in professional photography for its website to make online ordering online easy for retailers. Wholesale prices are around £11-14 for necklaces on average while there is no minimum requirement for online orders following initial order; sales agents covering Scotland and South England or visit the brand’s website to view its full digital catalogue.

CONTACT: Tel: 01260 226 588 dantejewellery.co.uk SEPTEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 29

PROMOTION

Timeless elegance

ELEVATE YOUR WOMENSWEAR OFFER WITH VIVIEN LAUREN’S EXPERTLY CRAFTED FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES

L

uxury leather brand Vivien Lauren produces elegant bags, footwear, shawls and scarves boasting the finest Italian craftsmanship.

Sustainably produced in Italy and made by hand, its timeless products are designed to last for years to come. The brand’s choice of materials include cow hide leather, which is a food industry by-product. Its designers seek to preserve the epitome of style, with a focus on quality, detail and originality.

Standout styles include intricately crafted handbags in soft leather with luxe design details such as gold buckles and bamboo handles. Meanwhile, the range also includes handmade pashminas in various colourways, suede winter snow boots and sophisticated heels for special occasion dressing.

Buyers can order its products throughout the year including in-season top ups. £POA; contact the brand directly for its catalogue, minimum order requirements and wholesale pricing.

CONTACT: Tel: 07432 138 134 E: info@vivienlauren.co.uk vivienlauren.co.uk

Vivien Lauren.

Proudly italian

Luxury Leather Collections.

Handbags, Shoes, Luxury Scarfs, Shawls.

Italian Craftsmanship handed down over generations.

Sustainably Produced in Italy Designed for Timeless Elegance.

Vivien Lauren. Proud To Style.

Contact for Catalog, MoQ, and Prices. www.vivienlauren.co.uk info@vivienlauren.co.uk +44 7432138134

30 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

See us at Moda /Autumn Fair stand 7A61 and Top Drawer stand 175/177 01784-482888

Sigal Distribution sigaldistribution@gmail.com

www.sigaldistribution.com

ACCESSSORIES

Fashion Extras GEMMA WARD PICKS OUT THIS MONTH’S BEST BOOTS, BAGS AND JEWELLERY

All wrapped up

Crafted in super soft recycled wool and merino, Rabens Saloners’ Majse scarf will keep shoppers warm all winter. Style with a tonal winter coat for extra style points. £POA; E: julie@rabenssaloner.com

High rise

Whether paired with long dresses or short skirts, Samsøe Samsøe’s Sophia boots are a great choice for elevating outfits when the cold weather arrives. £POA; E: vitus@samsoe.com 32 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

Winter hero

Offering a rustic twist on a classic style, Celtic and Co’s oiled-leather hand-burnished Chunky Chelsea Ankle Boots are a must-have investment for winter. £POA; Tel: 0333 400 044 E: trade@celticandco.uk

Cold comfort

In a vibrant hue that will brighten up dull days, Summery Copenhagen’s orange beanie hat is the perfect antidote to cold weather and grey skies. £POA; E: tadas@summerycopehagen.com

Business essential

Featuring an internal laptop pocket, spacious main compartment and waterproof fabric, Rains’ signature rucksack is designed with comfort and durability in mind. £POA; jc@rains.com

Safe not sorry

Designed to protect glasses without taking up too much room, NAOA’s compact apple-leather case fits into the smallest of bags for whenever shoppers are on the go. £POA; E: assistant@naodesign.com naodesign. com/pages/contact-us

In black and white

The perfect size for taking makeup essentials on the go, Coster Copenhagen’s monochrome Quilted cosmetics bag is a great gift idea for stylish shoppers. £POA; Tel: 0045 5084 9855 costercopenhagen.com

Autumn chic

Launched for SS24, Munthe’s classic leather cross-body bag will help elevate winter outfits for years to come. Style it with fluffy knitwear and loafers for instant chic. £POA; E: hlm@munthe.com

ACCESSSORIES

Full support

Available in four colourways, Modibodi’s Basic Triangle Bralette is moisture-wicking, supportive and comfortable enough for when you don’t feel like wearing a bra. £POA; modibodi.co.uk

Made to last

Now available in the UK, US footwear brand OluKai creates premium Hawaiian-inspired leather sandals, trainers and pure shearling slippers with a focus on quality and comfort. £POA; olukai.co.uk

Iconic style

Italian trainers brand Wushu Ruyi creates retro inspired designs in an easy-to-wear palette of bright shades and muted hues. £POA; E: tanya.auburncollective@gmail.com auburncollective.co.uk

Cosy home

Add luxurious comfort to any interior with Chalk’s soft-touch velvet cushions. Buyers can choose from three different sizes in eight chic colourways. 2pk from £13.50; wholesale.chalkuk.com

Summer blues

Created using a zero-waste production process, the Laila Mini bag by luxe Saudi label Bovenue should make the return of longer nights a bit more bearable. £POA; E: sofia@blackpr.co.uk

Easy update

Perfect for layering or wearing alone, Scream Pretty’s Cleopatra green baguette chain necklace will instantly refresh any outfit this AW23. £24.95; E: trade@screampretty.com tradescreampretty.com

Loafing around

A must-have footwear style for every AW23 wardrobe, ATP Atelier’s loafers are crafted to the highest standards in the finest nappa leather. £POA; E: sales@atpatelier.com

Smell the roses

Keep the feeling of summer alive with Purnima’s timeless Rose scented candle, featuring a blend of rose leaf with white musk and patchouli. £POA; Tel: 07878791187 E: sales@purnimafragrances.com

Boot season

Transition summer dresses into autumn with ease by layering over a classic polo neck and adding

By Malina’s stylish knee-high Esme boots. £POA; E: lucy@thebrandambassadors.london SEPTEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 33

STOCK UP

Back to business POWER UP YOUR WORK WARDROBE EDIT WITH THESE ULTRA-MODERN OFFICE-FRIENDLY BUYS

T

he office is calling, but corporate dressing isn’t what it used to be. Think smart-casual basics mixed with power suits, crisp shirts and statement accessories. Here are some of our favourite pieces that look the business for AW23…

TARTAN SKIRT, RABENS SALONER, £POA

VEGAN WATCH, LONDONETTI, £POA

WIDE LEG TROUSERS, MOLLY JOE, £POA

DRESS, GOMAYE, £POA

TROUSERS, ROBELL, £POA VEGAN BAG, LUNA CHARLES, £POA

TRAINERS, D.A.T.E, £POA

34 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

STOCK UP UMBRELLA, ORIGINAL DUCKHEAD, £POA CHOKER, LUNA CHARLES, £POA

SHOULDER PAD SHIRT, NOTES DU NORD, £POA

CLAW CLIP, CHALK, 2PK £13

THOR BACKPACK, KERIKIT, £POA

SKIRT, MUNTHE, £POA

COAT, SAMSØE SAMSØE, £POA

SOPHIE WOOL JACKET, BY MALINA, £POA

JUMPER, COSTER COPENHAGEN, £POA ESME BOOTS, BY MALINA, £POA

BY MALINA E: lucy@thebrandambassadors.london, CHALK wholesale.chalkuk.com, COSTER COPENHAGEN Tel: 0045 5084 9855 costercopenhagen.com, D.A.T.E E: claire@goldfinchagency.com, GOMAYE Tel: 0207 636 3063 godske.com, KERIKIT Tel: 0161 818 9038, LONDONETTI E: trade@newgateworld.com, LUNA CHARLES E: wholesale@lunacharles.co.uk, MUNTHE E: hlm@munthe.com, NOTES DU NORD E: sales@notesdunord.com, ORIGINAL DUCKHEAD originalduckhead.com/pages/wholesale, RABENS SALONER E: julie@rabenssaloner.com, ROBELL Tel: 0207 636 3063 godske.com, SAMSØE SAMSØE E: vitus@samsoe.com samsoe.com

SEPTEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 35

PROMOTION

Summer breeze

GET READY FOR SS24 WITH LILY AND ME’S MOST RESPONSIBLE WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION TO DATE

F

rom the first flush of snowdrops to high summer heatwaves, Lily and Me’s SS24 collection offers pretty wardrobe essentials that make every day feel special. The British lifestyle brand’s latest line-up includes sustainable staples that shoppers will turn to season after season, including feminine printed dresses and jumpsuits alongside its brightly coloured knitwear. All of the linen blend, woven and jersey viscose fabrics in the collection are made using eco-friendly Lenzing Eco-Vero and Eco-Tang viscose. Meanwhile, the label’s slub jersey and woven cotton are made from organically sourced

cotton from India. Buyers can expect subdued prints and gentle hues from early spring, with khaki notes and soft blues moving into delicate lilac and sea green as the season progresses.

For high summer, its colour palette intensifies with high energy azure and sunset-inspired shades. Hero styles include its Jasmine maxi dress in Wildflower print, organic cotton Freida print Spring midi dress and its easy-wearing Erica jumpsuits in a variety of colourways.

Available on forward order now with in-season top-ups throughout SS24; wholesale prices range from £7 - £25 while the minimum order requirement is £1,500.

CONTACT: Tel: 01452 207 766 lilyandmeclothing.com

Products made from plastic waste For over a decade now, Lefrik has been committed to extending the lifespan of recycled plastic bottles by using them as raw materials for the production of our products.

We are a group of individuals passionate about the way color and innovative materials can connect with the senses, and we incorporate this passion into the design of our high-performance backpacks, bags, and accessories, which are both functional and stylish.

From Madrid. Since 2012.

www.lefrik.com

Contact: jarrod@lefrik.com

36 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

Available in a wide choice of Available in a wide choice of colours with sizes ranging from colours with sizes ranging from XS - XXXL, low minimums and no XS - XXXL, low minimums and no packs, you are free to create your packs, you are free to create your perfect collection. perfect collection.

Books close 30th September Books close 30th September Approx. six week lead time.

SS24 Collection 02083063034 02083063034 info@thebamboowardrobe.com info@thebamboowardrobe.com www.thebamboowardrobe.com www.thebamboowardrobe.com

To view UK showroom dates and show venues near you please visit www.godske.com/g-en/trade-shows GODSKE GROUP, LONDON SHOWROOM, Ground Floor, Great Titchfield House, 14-18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD TEL: 0207-636 3063 | FAX: 0207-636 3863 | EMAIL: pug@godske.com

To view UK showroom dates and show venues near you please visit www.godske.com/g-en/trade-shows GODSKE GROUP, LONDON SHOWROOM, Ground Floor, Great Titchfield House, 14-18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD TEL: 0207-636 3063 | FAX: 0207-636 3863 | EMAIL: pug@godske.com

T H E FA S H I O N T R O U S E R S B R A N D

T H E FA S H I O N T R O U S E R S B R A N D

To view UK showroom dates and show venues near you please visit www.godske.com/g-en/trade-shows GODSKE GROUP, LONDON SHOWROOM, Ground Floor, Great Titchfield House, 14-18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD TEL: 0207-636 3063 | FAX: 0207-636 3863 | EMAIL: pug@godske.com

London To view UK showroom dates and show venues near you please visit www.godske.com/g-en/trade-shows GODSKE GROUP, LONDON SHOWROOM, Ground Floor, Great Titchfield House, 14-18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD TEL: 0207-636 3063 | FAX: 0207-636 3863 | EMAIL: pug@godske.com

Down to Business

INSIGHT FOR FASHION INDIES

On the rise

A

s consumer confidence slowly begins to return, things are looking up for UK retailers. However, with business rates relief expected to tail off in April, it’s also likely that costs will rise again next year. Here Chris Grose, director at independent property consultancy Hartnell Taylor Cook, dissects the latest developments…

JANKO FERLIC ON UNSPLASH SEPTEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 47

DOWN TO BUSINESS LUIS VILLASMIL ON UNSPLASH

A broken system WITH BUSINESS RATES EXPECTED TO RISE IN APRIL, THE GOVERNMENT MUST ADDRESS THE CAUSE BEHIND BRITAIN’S FAILING HIGH STREETS AND NOT JUST THE SYMPTOMS, SAYS CHRIS GROSE

U

K high streets have lost 6,000 store fronts over the last five years as retailers have been grappling with covid restrictions, online competition, high business rates, rising business costs and low consumer confidence.

48 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

An additional £400m is expected to be added onto retailers’ bills next April when business rates relief is trimmed down. This can only result in a pull back on investment and even higher vacancy rates on the high streets.

Election day

With the reality of a hardfought election fast approaching, struggling retailers are already starting to see a variety of promises and proposals coming out of the woodwork.

DOWN TO BUSINESS Competing parties are promising business rates cuts and relief for certain sectors, yet current relief plans are not enough and drowning businesses are calling for rates to be frozen next year. Currently, the process is cumbersome and inflexible while the VOA is critically understaffed.

The crux of the issue remains that the rate in the pound is too high and relief to date has done little but paper over the cracks.

With change on the way, what can retailers expect over the next year?

Current backdrop

The 2023 Rating List came into effect around six months ago, after the Chancellor announced in the Autumn Fiscal Statement that the rate in the pound would remain at £0.499 and £0.512 depending on the size of the property. He confirmed that Retail, Hospitality and Leisure Relief would increase to 75 per cent of the rates payable with a limit of £110,000 per business. Meanwhile, on the same day, the Valuation Office published the draft 2023 Rating List summaries, which implied retail rateable values have fallen by 10 per cent.

However, this Relief is little more than a sticking plaster. Many small shopping centres and high street retail and hospitality units have actually seen their rateable values increase - and this can’t be swept under the carpet with a 10 per cent reduction. Ratepayers in affected areas must communicate and share data, ensuring that rateable values are in fact correct and to ensure they are well prepared if, or ultimately when, Retail, Hospitality and Leisure Relief is withdrawn.

The non-domestic rating bill

Meanwhile, there are further changes coming down the track – and some are more burdensome for retailers than others. The Non-Domestic Rating Bill is currently working its way through the House of Lords, after passing

MARKUS SPISKE ON UNSPLASH

through the Commons with little alteration. It aims to reduce the time between revaluations and provide relief for the improvement of properties. However, it would also create an obligation on ratepayers to complete an annual return confirming that no change has been made to the property or its rent in the last 12 months.

If there has been a change, businesses will have to complete the annual return and notify the VO within six months – creating yet more red tape.

Even this bill, which aims to improve the state of affairs, is tiptoeing around the principle issue. The tax has its problems, but other suggestions don’t quite fit either. For example, the Lib Dems promised they would abolish the business rates system and introduce a commercial landowner levy that would be paid by landlords rather than businesses. But what about owner-occupied properties and how do you stop it being recharged to tenants? The idea of an online retail sales tax was suggested to target online giants, but what about businesses using their high street presence to service online orders?

Those businesses, which include many independent womenswear retailers, would be left paying a dual tax.

Uncertain ground

Currently, there is a lot of uncertainty surrounding business rates. In April 2024, we’re not sure whether the Duty to Notify will be in force, where the rate in the pound will be relating to inflation and whether the RHLR will still be going. One thing we can be hopeful about, though, is that with an election within the 2024/25 rate year, any actions taken to increase rates bills will be limited.

The difficulty is that while business rates are unpopular, they are very efficient. Collection rates are over 95 per cent. As such, suggested alternatives so far have failed to improve the system while retaining efficiency. And while the rate in the pound cripples the high street, the government would struggle to raise funds elsewhere.

The system is complex, making it hard to implement and replace. But there are small changes that could ease the pressure. For one thing, the Check, Challenge, Appeal system is laborious and slow.

Hopefully, the proposed changes will address this at the very least.

Chris Grose is director at independent property consultancy Hartnell Taylor Cook and general counsel member for the Institute of Revenues Rating and Valuation (IRRV); htc.uk.com SEPTEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 49

DOWN TO BUSINESS

Special delivery

DARIA NEPRIAKHINA ON UNSPLASH

HOW TO DRIVE CUSTOMER LOYALTY BY OFFERING SHOPPERS AN EXCEPTIONAL POST-PURCHASE EXPERIENCE. BY PARCELLAB’S ANTON EDER

I

n the fast-paced world of fashion retail, independent retailers face unique challenges in establishing a loyal customer base. While acquiring new customers is important, retaining existing ones is equally crucial for success. With this in mind, the online post-purchase customer experience holds the key to building strong relationships and fostering brand loyalty. Here are some tips on how fashion indies can drive repeat purchases by offering e-commerce shoppers an exceptional after-sales experience…

Communications & convenience

Keep customers informed about their order status from the moment they make a purchase right until it’s delivered to their doorstep. Send timely order confirmation emails and regular shipping updates to build trust and reduce anxiety about the delivery process. A smooth and transparent transaction enhances the overall customer experience.

This goes without saying, but you should offer excellent customer support and assistance as and when required. Ensure your team is readily available to answer customer queries and resolve any issues promptly. A positive customer service experience can turn dissatisfied customers into loyal advocates.

Indie retailers should always strive to provide a hassle-free return and exchange policy. This demonstrates confidence in your products and instils trust in your brand. Make the process straightforward and customer-friendly to encourage repeat business.

50 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

Make it personal

Whatever you do, don’t forget about your customers after they’ve made an online purchase. Retailers should send a follow-up email a few weeks after delivery to check in on their satisfaction with the product and overall experience. This proactive approach demonstrates that you care about their opinions and are committed to their satisfaction.

There are other ways to personalise your store’s service, too.

This includes sending shoppers a personalised thank you note, for example, expressing your appreciation for their support.

Personal touches go a long way in making customers feel valued and connected to your brand. Another tried and tested tactic is surprising your customers with a small gift or discount code when they receive their package. This unexpected gesture will leave a positive impression and encourage customers to return. The element of surprise also adds excitement and fosters a sense of reciprocity, nurturing customer loyalty.

Celebrating special occasions like birthdays or anniversaries with your customers is also important. Be sure to send personalised messages or exclusive deals as a token of appreciation. Acknowledging these milestones makes customers feel valued and strengthens their emotional connection to your brand.

Recommendations & incentives

Leverage data on customers’ previous purchases to offer personalised product recommendations. A good idea is to implement a ‘customers who

bought this also bought’ feature on your website, suggesting items that complement their previous purchases. This tailored approach shows your understanding of their preferences and enhances the likelihood of repeat buys.

You can also create exclusive loyalty programmes for repeat customers. Offer rewards, discounts, or early access to new collections or product ranges as an incentive for their continued support. Loyalty programmes foster a sense of belonging and strengthen the bond between your brand and your customers.

By focusing on creating an exceptional post-purchase experience, independent fashion retailers can cultivate strong customer loyalty and retention.

Building lasting relationships with customers fosters brand advocacy and sets the stage for continued growth and success in the competitive world of online fashion retail.

Anton Eder is founder and CoS at post-purchase customer experience software provider ParcelLab; parcellab.com

Date:

9th November 2023

Venue:

The May Fair Hotel London

Welcome drinks 3 course dinner with wine Tea/coffee and petit fours Awards ceremony DJ after party

Tickets £190

Book now!

Ticket info contact: Julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk

UK Customer Service +44 07368175176 ukinfo@franklyman.com

Shop Talk

INDUSTRY OPINION

Grand design

O DOODIE STARK, LINDFIELD

pened in June, Doodie Stark’s brand new home in Lindfield, Sussex, is a true retail destination. Here we speak to founder Liz Jefferson to discover the details behind its 10-month long renovation…

SEPTEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 55

SHOP TALK

Destination retail REVEALING THE STORY BEHIND HER STRIKING NEW STORE, DOODIE STARK FOUNDER LIZ JEFFERSON TALKS TO GEMMA WARD ABOUT BUYING, SELLING AND RENOVATING

L

iz Jefferson is palpably excited about the latest opening for her womenswear indie group, Doodie Stark.

It’s the second home for the retailer’s shop in Lindfield, Sussex, and joins another six-year-old store in Horsham.

But this new addition to the family is extra special.

Set inside a completely reimagined former bakehouse, the new 1,720sq ft Grand Designs-style destination store is the stuff independent retail dreams are made of. “I’m so excited 56 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

to walk through the door every day,” says the founder, who designed the airy space with her husband, Rupert.

“Seeing what we’ve managed to achieve with this unique shop fills me with so much pride.”

A new home

The building itself, once quite literally the place a baker would make bread to sell in the shop in front, was derelict when Liz first set her heart on it in January last year. However, despite the smashed

windows, peeling paintwork and decades of dirt, she knew it was the one: “As soon as we saw the Bakehouse, we wanted it,” she says.

“But there were two other parts to the plot that we didn’t want: an old run-down house and small high street shop. Unfortunately, the seller wasn’t prepared to let us buy the building on its own, so we had to take a huge risk and purchase all three properties. Thankfully, we managed to sell on the other parts quicky to fund our renovations.”

SHOP TALK

Today the original Bakehouse building is completely unrecognisable. Working with a local architect and team of builders, it underwent 10 long months of transformation. Two brand new ‘wings’ were added onto the structure’s original shell, creating a contemporary u-shaped shop floor. That now surrounds a serene outdoor courtyard area laid with stone tiles, comfy seating, luscious plants and a spa-like water feature. “We drew inspiration from beautiful Californian stores such as James Perse, which incorporate outdoor areas,” Liz says. “Then, for the interior, we looked to some of our favourite retailers in Copenhagen.”

The new shop’s modern barnstyle exterior, finished with brick slips and black wooden cladding, is still very much in-keeping

with the area’s historic buildings.

And although hidden from the high street’s main thoroughfare, its strikingly dramatic façade has been designed to capture the imagination of approaching visitors in true destination store style.

Career highlights

Liz’s journey to becoming an indie retail owner is just as impressive as the new Doodie Stark. After studying clothing technology and management at the London College of Fashion, she landed a job as the assistant to John Galliano’s production manager during the heady supermodel era. But getting the job turned out to be slightly more ‘hands on’ than she’d expected: “I began as a pattern cutter on a work experience placement,” she says. “But John Galliano, who does a lot of cutting

on the body, noticed that I’m very tall, so asked if he could pin and cut garments on me.”

Liz spent hours each day watching him work. And once her placement finished, she was offered a permanent position for post-graduation: “After university I went to work there full-time.

The role covered all aspects of production - from ordering fabrics and trims to distributing samples and collections. I also monitored the progress and quality control of collections to meet delivery deadlines into stores.”

Those were the days when Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington and Naomi Campbell were walking the catwalk - and Liz got to attend all the shows too, either helping to dress the models or seating the press. “It was such an exciting time,” she says. “I even made accessories for some of the shows and stepped in as a model during rehearsals. Sometimes I had to pinch myself that I had such an amazing job.”

In 1996, when Galliano left the UK to work for Dior, Liz was appointed as production manager for diffusion label Galliano Genes.

She then moved into the sales side of the industry, working as a distributor for Valentino Jeans UK from a showroom on South Molten Street: “At that time it was one of the best jeans collections around and I sold to the UK’s biggest buyers – it was fantastic experience,” she says.

Later Liz started working for mid-market brands such as Sticky Fingers and Great Plains, where she “learned how to be commercial.”

This experience essentially helped lay the perfect foundations for her career as a retailer: “I worked with the designers to ensure every sample was the perfect shape, fit, price point and colour to maximise sales. I also looked after several large department stores such as Fenwicks and Bentalls, learning the importance of reporting, analysing sales figures and budgeting.”

SEPTEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 57

SHOP TALK Retail owner

Having worked in her mother’s fabric shop as a little girl, Liz knew moving into retail would be a great way to transfer her skills and enjoy a more flexible career: “I met my husband quite late in life and wanted to leave London and start a family,” she says. “I’d already had a fulfilling career in fashion, but I was keen to move onto the next stage in my life. Being my own boss was really appealing and the experience I had in production and wholesale provided the perfect background for opening my own shop.”

With the help of her husband, Liz pinpointed the affluent Haywoods Heath area as the ideal location for the business. Just 35 minutes on the train to London Bridge and with several prestigious private schools in the vicinity, its local demographic was her ideal target customer. “Although we weren’t borrowing anything from the bank, we put together quite an extensive 16-page business plan,” she says. “We tried to cover all bases in our research, even discovering that the area has the highest number of first-class rail season ticket holders in the country. In our minds we knew we had found the ideal location.”

In 2010, the first Doodie Stark opened its doors on Lindfield High Street. Set over 800 sq ft, its interior boasted exposed beams, wooden flooring and an open plan area under a large glass lantern roof. The shop sold entry level to premium womenswear brands from around the globe and was an instant success with locals. “The brand mix has changed over the years, but I’ve always tried to keep the price points varied,” says Liz. “I don’t ever want to alienate people and make them think they can’t afford to walk away with a purchase.”

Seven years later, Liz decided to open a second shop in the nearby town of Horsham. While it offers a similar product range and customer experience, the owner says its customer base is quite different to the Lindfield store. “It’s positioned in a larger town, and I wanted to 58 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

test both location types,” she says.

“There’s more footfall, but that doesn’t necessarily equate to sales.

The conversion rate is much higher in our village shop. You get a lot more people browsing without buying anything, whereas in Lindfield you know customers will most likely leave with a purchase.”

Core brands at Doodie Stark include American Vintage, Dea Kudibal, DL1961, Suncoo, Shoe the Bear, Greek Archaic Kori, Lollys laundry, Primrose Park and Campomaggi. Meanwhile, it also stocks the likes of Depeche, Charli, Castaner, Mos Mosh and Suzy D London. Liz says it offers a wide selection of denim and is well known among locals for its expert advice on fit and shape. And while

the emphasis is on everyday styling, it also carries some occasionwear for weddings and race days at nearby Goodwood and Ascot.

When it comes to buying, Liz visits trade shows in Paris and Copenhagen – ever searching for brands that haven’t yet made it to the UK. She adopts an analytical approach to ordering – learned from her previous career - never leaving anything to chance. “Data is my most important tool when buying for the shop,” she says. “I run full sell-through reports for each collection at the end of each season, so I know exactly how much to spend. Sometimes I have to gauge the strength of the collection and tweak the budget as necessary, but taking this approach is a tried and tested method that really works.”

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SHOP TALK Making changes

While the new Doodie Stark store only opened in June, the idea to move has been in the pipeline for several years. “Our landlord wasn’t particularly supportive during the pandemic,” says Liz. “We needed to move but we also wanted to stay in Lindfield, so there was pressure to find the right property. It took a while, but we found the bakehouse just in time for a break clause in the lease.”

During this period the business took its first foray into e-commerce, launching an online shop in May 2020. Liz also had a lightbulb moment when it came to mask-wearing and created the shop’s own branded scarf masks, which rather fortuitously helped drive traffic to the site.

“We designed it with one of our suppliers, creating several different prints,” she says.

“Customers really liked it and we sold around 4,500 units. We donated a sizable portion of each sale to the Mind charity and promoted it by working with some influencers and a PR person who got it into some magazines. It helped promote our website when the physical shops were closed.”

Currently, Doodie Stark’s online sales make up around 10 per cent of the business, which is a number Liz is keen to grow.

So now, with the new store in place, she is dedicating more time to e-commence: “My next focus will be updating our EPoS system, creating a new website and continuing to invest in SEO,” she says. “That will help increase online sales.”

But having created such a standout physical retail presence, the owner is keen to make the most of it: “I think pop-up events will be a really big opportunity for us moving forward,” Liz says.

“My plan is to work with other brands and retailers to increase our customer base. We have the scope to host anything here from outside yoga sessions to 60 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

tasting events and art shows. We could even invite several brands to create a pop-up Christmas market. I want to attract shoppers from further afield as well as our loyal customers to become a real destination for fashion in Sussex.”

Yet, despite her undeniable talent for creating an amazing

retail space, Liz has absolutely no desire to increase Doodie Stark’s portfolio with another store. “We have a great business model, but I don’t want to spend the rest of my days stuck in the office doing admin,” she says. “My heart is on the shop floor with customers and that’s exactly how I like it.”

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SHOP TALK

“Although Wilko lost its attraction, its decline highlights the pressure on high street retailers” BIRA’S ANDREW GOODACRE ON TAKING A DIFFERENT APPROACH TO REVITALISE THE HIGH STREET

W

ilko’s demise dominated last month’s retail news. The collapse of this established high street chain, which operates over 400+ outlets, is clearly very bad news for its 12,500 loyal employees. I have read and heard lots of experts talk about how it fell behind its modern competitors such a Home Bargains and The Range – and some of what’s been said is true. I have also been asked by many journalists if its failure reflects the continued demise of the high street. However, I genuinely believe it does not. If Wilko lost out to other retail chains, then it clearly suggests that people still want to visit physical shops to make their purchases.

Although the Wilko brand lost its attraction, the other really big issue its decline highlights is the pressure on the business model for high street retailers. The burdens on retailers with physical premises, such as rent, rates, energy and labour, is too high. These burdens seem to be increasing at a time when accessibility to our high streets is becoming more of a challenge. And this is why I believe we need to see a different approach.

Bira will always argue the case for a complete reform of business rates, even though we had a significant success with the introduction of the retail discount. Reform of rates is a treasury decision, but there are positive actions that could be taken by other stakeholders. Recently we have seen two such initiatives that will support high street development and innovation. In one case the landlord of a parade of shops offered two years’ free rent to new businesses. This initiative first started a few years ago and we can now see the results. What was once a previously uninspiring area has been transformed into a lively, diverse shopping experience. No rent to pay has given new retailers the opportunity to establish their businesses and succeed before paying rent. The area has also become more attractive, making these units more valuable for the landlord.

It’s a simple but effective idea that works by a key stakeholder taking a measured risk.

62 | boutique. | SEPTEMBER 2023

The success of this initiative is now making other landlords and local authorities think about their own high streets and empty units. Oxford Street, still the most famous shopping street in the UK, has lost many big brands. The local council is considering a plan to offer new retailers free business rates to take on the empty premises – removing one of the large burdens to bring new life to a once great retail area.

If Wilko does close down completely, the worst impact will come from the hundreds of empty shops, which are often in prime locations on the high streets. We still have some of the BHS and Debenhams stores left standing empty, yet we can see what can be achieved by the local authority, landlords and retailers taking a calculated risk. Places can be revitalised, and small businesses can grow if given the time and space to do so. Reducing the fixed overheads of rates and rents is a viable option that will produce improved longer-term returns.

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