Boutique Magazine March 2024

MARCH 2024

BUSINESS SENSE FOR FASHION RETAILERS

Spring joy Female founders Denim trends Bod & Ted The Dressing Room

ISSUE 160

We make you fall in love with

AW24

Visit our London Showroom from 22nd of Jan Book now your appointment for AW24 marc@doublehagency.com 07539228041

www.doublehagency.com

EDITOR’S LETTER EDITOR Gemma Ward gemma@bpmedialtd.co.uk PRINT AND ONLINE SALES Julie Neill – julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk Tel 01795 515288 Tel 07960797383 DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Jack Witcomb – jack@bpmedialtd.co.uk CREDIT CONTROL Jilly Barker - Jilly@bpmedialtd.co.uk PUBLISHER Julie Neill MANAGING DIRECTOR Julie Neill © 2022 Boutique Professional Media Ltd, Office 2, The Old Stable Block, Crescent Road, Faversham, Kent ME13 7GU. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form – electronic, mechanical or physical – without express prior permission and written consent of the publisher. Contributions are invited and when not accepted will be returned only if accompanied by a fully stamped and addressed envelope.

Manuscripts should be type written. No responsibility can be taken for drawings, photographs or literary contributions during transmission or in the editor’s hands. In the absence of an agreement the copyright of all contributions, literary, photographic or artistic, belongs to Boutique Professional Media. The publisher accepts no responsibility in respect of advertisements appearing in the magazine and the opinions expressed do not necessarily represent the views of the Publisher. The Publisher cannot accept liability for any loss arising from the late appearance or non publication of any advertisement.

ON THE COVER:

Image courtesy of Caroline Svedbom; Tel: 07778 158 986 E: info@oldstrom.com oldstrom.com

Time to bloom

M

arch is officially the month to celebrate amazing women, which is something we’re certainly not short of in this industry. According to figures, female-owned businesses contribute a cool £105 billion to the UK’s economy. From the indie owners making a difference in their local communities to sustainable fashion brand founders inspiring systemic change, this sector truly leads the way on female excellence.

With this in mind, this month’s issue is packed with inspiring products, initiatives and ventures spearheaded by women. Firstly, we highlight some standout femalefounded fashion brands on pages 26-28 that are both empowering shoppers and making a difference to the planet. We also interview Bod & Ted owner Sophie Bland on pages 49-52 who shares the story behind her 15-year-old Tunbridge Wells boutique. Meanwhile, this issue also includes an exclusive interview with The Dressing Room’s Deryane Tadd, who reveals how she’s steering her business through various challenges - including a recent cyber-attack.

Turn to page 56-57 to read.

Speaking of retail challenges, experts are calling the government’s recent Spring Budget a bit of a damp squib. Industry insiders said the measures will do little to help AW24 AW24 TRENDS TRENDS

retailers struggling with rising costs and low consumer confidence while others are continuing calls for a business rates reform. In his column, Bira’s Andrew Goodacre says the announcement was a missed opportunity to make the retail rates discount permanent. Turn to pages 12 and 60 for more analysis.

Sadly, we’re still seeing indie retailers closing their doors around the country. Clothing sales volumes continued to fall at the beginning of this year while luxury fashion retailer Matches has entered administration. Although we sincerely hope this is a fleeting trend, turn to pages 43-45 for some valuable advice on what to do if your own business hits choppy waters.

Spring has almost sprung, and with it brings the promise of renowned optimism among shoppers. Let’s hope brighter days are on the horizon in more ways than one.

Gemma Ward, Editor Follow us on Instagram @boutique.magazine AW24 AW24 TRENDS TRENDS

Dream Dreamdenim denim WORKING WORKING GIRLGIRL

Dressing up

Blending modern elegance with classic luxury, Middle Eastern label Azzalia creates opulent eveningwear in sumptuous fabrics. Expect timeless 1960s-inspired dresses featuring premium materials and extravagant details. £POA; Tel: 0097 1509 006 785 E: leah@azzalia.ae/ info@azzalia.ae

SKIRT SKIRT AROUND AROUND THETHE ISSUE ISSUE

Looking Looking for denim for denim in a more in a more office-friendly office-friendly silhouette? silhouette?

Blazers Blazers in in the work-inspired the work-inspired fabricfabric are gaining are gaining attention, attention, bringing bringing a modern a modern twist to twist a classic. to a classic.

German German womenswear womenswear brandbrand TaifunTaifun is leading is leading the charge the charge with this withsleek this indigo sleek indigo number, number, whichwhich looks looks great great styledstyled with awith ribbed a ribbed knit and knitcoordinating and coordinating flaredflared jeans. jeans.

Tel: 0207 Tel: 0207 436 8383/ 436 8383/ o777 592 o7773353 592 E: 3353 beau.scarlett-pitt@gerryweber.com E: beau.scarlett-pitt@gerryweber.com

ROLL ROLL OUTOUT THETHE BARREL BARREL

Denim Denim maxi skirts maxi skirts startedstarted making making a a comeback comeback in 2023 in and 2023they’re and they’re expected expected to to to continue continue to continue continue as aaskey aaskey autumn aaskey autumn a key autumn autumn trend. trend. trend.

Highly trend.

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E: vitus@samsoe.com E: vitus@samsoe.com

It’s a divisive It’s a divisive style, yet style, theyet barrel the barrel jean jean – which – which hugs the hugs hips, the goes hips,baggy goes baggy at at the thighs the thighs and knees and knees then tapers then tapers to theto the anklesankles – is quickly – is quickly gaining gaining momentum momentum amongamong stylishstylish shoppers. shoppers.

Mos Mosh’s Mos Mosh’s Andi Curve Andi Curve Jeans Jeans are a great are a option great option for for AW24AW24 and look andgreat look teamed great teamed with awith a ribbedribbed knit and knitsmart and smart pair ofpair loafers. of loafers. £POA;£POA; E: cp@mosmosh.com E: cp@mosmosh.com

Lip service

British brand House of Holland has created a daring collection for AW24 featuring quirky shapes, head-turning prints and deep saturated hues. Wallflowers need not apply. £POA; E: dody@blackpr.co.uk

Boutique loves…

FASHION AND ACCESSORIES TO FALL HEAD OVER HEELS FOR

Into the blue

Now available in cobalt blue, Newgate’s Number Three Railway wall clock boasts a timeless minimalist design to brighten up any room. £POA; newgatetrade.com

KEEP KEEP THINGS THINGS LOOSE LOOSE

Loose-fit Loose-fit denimdenim co-ordinates co-ordinates offer offer a contemporary a contemporary take on take every-day on every-day dressing. dressing.

Pair Chalk’s Pair Chalk’s new Armelle new Armelle denimdenim chambray chambray wide legged wide legged culottes culottes with its with Frida its Frida JacketJacket to to creating creating an effortlessly an effortlessly timeless timeless look. look.

Available Available on short-order on short-order now, £34; now, £34; wholesale.chalkuk.com wholesale.chalkuk.com | MARCH | MARCH 30 | boutique.

30 | boutique.

2024 2024

Lily & Me

FASHION FIX

EMBELLISH EMBELLISH THETHE TRUTH TRUTH

Inspired Inspired by herby childhood her childhood passion passion for horse-riding, for horse-riding, Naja Munthe Naja Munthe combines combines rugged rugged denimdenim and ranch and ranch patterns patterns alongside alongside delicate delicate fabricsfabrics in herin eponymous her eponymous brand’s brand’s AW24AW24 collection. collection.

The silver The silver chainschains and fringing and fringing on thisonskirt thisand skirtjacket and jacket bring bring glamour glamour to theto the Americana Americana trend.trend. £POA;£POA; E: hlm@munthe.com E: hlm@munthe.com

NEW NEW SEASON SEASON MUST-HAVES MUST-HAVES IN FASHION’S IN FASHION’S MOST MOST VERSATILE VERSATILE TRANS-SEASONAL TRANS-SEASONAL FABRIC FABRIC

TEXAS TEXAS HOLD HOLD ‘EM ‘EM

Greek label Ozai N Ku creates elegant separates, dresses and knitwear boasting exclusive prints, clean lines and tempting textures. Its design team’s aim is to combine both style and comfort, choosing loose cut silhouettes and stretch fabrics across its timeless yet daring range. £POA; Tel: 07771 597 166 aptcollections.ltd.uk

Star gazing

Cowboy Cowboy boots boots have been have making been making their way their way back into backwardrobes into wardrobes for thefor past thefew pastseasons few seasons and now andshoppers now shoppers are ready are ready to go full to goWild full Wild West. West.

Sustainable Sustainable denimdenim brandbrand Seventy Seventy + + MochiMochi is embracing is embracing the trend the trend for AW24, for AW24, addingadding decorative decorative stitching stitching and embroidery and embroidery to to its blue itsdenim blue denim and cotton and cotton shirts.shirts.

Yee-haw!

Yee-haw! £POA;£POA; E: ella@somewhereagency.com E: ella@somewhereagency.com | boutique. | boutique. | 31 | 31 MARCH MARCH 2024 2024

Statement making

Packaged inside a vintage-inspired velvet gift box, Amelia Scott’s handcrafted Celeste Cluster Bracelet features dazzling lab-grown cubic zirconia stones and delicate enamel charms. £POA; E: hello@amelia-scott.com

22 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

Lily & Me is on a mission to Designed in-house at our Glou We create hand-drawn print orders@lilyandmeclothing.com Boutique AW24 March.indd 1

MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 3

TT H HE E FA FA S SH H II O ON N TT R RO OU US SE ER RS S B BR RA AN ND D

TT H HE E FA FA S SH H II O ON N TT R RO OU US SE ER RS S B BR RA AN ND D

To To view view UK UK showroom showroom dates dates and and show show venues venues near near you you please please visit visit www.godske.com/g-en/trade-shows www.godske.com/g-en/trade-shows GODSKE GODSKE GROUP, GROUP, LONDON LONDON SHOWROOM, SHOWROOM, Ground Ground Floor, Floor, Great Great Titchfield Titchfield House, House, 14-18 14-18 Great Great Titchfield Titchfield Street, Street, London London W1W W1W 8BD 8BD TEL: 0207-636 3063 | FAX: 0207-636 3863 | EMAIL: pug@godske.com TEL: 0207-636 3063 | FAX: 0207-636 3863 | EMAIL: pug@godske.com

London To view UK showroom dates and show venues near you please visit www.godske.com/g-en/trade-shows

| boutique.

MARCH 2024W1W GODSKE GROUP, LONDON SHOWROOM, Ground Floor, Great Titchfield House, 14-18 Great Titchfield Street, London 8BD | 7 TEL: 0207-636 3063 | FAX: 0207-636 3863 | EMAIL: pug@godske.com

To view UK showroom dates and show venues near you please visit www.godske.com/g-en/trade-shows MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 9 GODSKE GROUP, LONDON SHOWROOM, Ground Floor, Great Titchfield House, 14-18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD TEL: 0207-636 3063 | FAX: 0207-636 3863 | EMAIL: pug@godske.com

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MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 11

Winner BRITISH BRAND OF THE YEAR

12 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

www.pomodoroclothing.com

Fashion Fix

ESSENTIAL NEWS FOR FASHION INDIES

LIZ JEFFERSON, DOODIE STARK

T

Entries open for Boutique Star Awards 2024

he Boutique Star Awards 2024 is now open for entries. Now in its fourth year, the competition is open to all UK-based fashion and lifestyle independents operating bricks-and-mortar businesses as well as brands and industry insiders.

There are 21 awards up for grabs this year, with six new categories joining the line-up. Following feedback, the entry process has been simplified to make it even easier for all indies and suppliers to take part. Entrants are required to answer five questions about their business online using the judging criteria to demonstrate why they would be a worthy winner. Answers can be submitted via boutique-magazine. co.uk or returned by email (full details available online) before Wednesday 31 July 2024.

Entries will be short-listed and then judged by a panel of industry insiders, with last year’s line-up including Sass and Edge co-founders Rachel Hunt and Sally Gott, Bira’s Andrew

Goodacre and retail expert Catherine Erdly from the Resiliant Retail Club. The ultimate winners will be announced at a glittering ceremony in Central London this November.

Retailers can now enter nine different categories including new awards Employer of the Year, Store Design of the Year and Shop Window of the Year. These are joined by Fashion Independent of the Year, Independent Group of the Year, New Independent of the Year, Social Media Strategy of the Year, Community Hero of the Year and Sustainability Advocate of the Year.

A further nine categories are open to suppliers including new awards Footwear Brand of the Year, Jewellery Brand of the Year and EPoS Provider of the Year. These join Fashion Agency of the Year, British Brand of the Year, International Brand of the Year, Fashion Distributor of the Year, Female-Founded Brand of the Year and Sustainable Brand of the Year.

Meanwhile, three nomination-only categories – Lifetime Achievement,

Newcomer and Outstanding Business – will also be presented to exceptional individuals.

“The awards are back for 2024 and we’re so excited to recognise the industry’s best indies and suppliers,” says Boutique magazine MD Julie Neill. “We’ve added six new categories this year, which is testimony to the success and growth of the competition. Last year’s finalists and winners were truly outstanding and we can’t wait to celebrate again at the end of this year.”

Last year’s winners’ party took place at The May Fair Hotel in London and was attended by leading indies including Collen and Clare, Artichoke, Dragonfly, Very Stylish Girl and Niche Boutique.

Big winners of the evening included Domino Style for Fashion Independent of the Year, Young Ideas for Independent Group of the Year and Renes Fashion for Outstanding Business. Sunday Best founder Jan Shutt was also presented with the Lifetime Achievement award.

MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 13

FASHION FIX

Retail experts criticise government’s recent Spring Budget The government is facing criticism over its latest Spring Budget, delivered earlier this month by chancellor Jeremy Hunt. The announcement was notably absent of several key issues affecting retailers including reforming business rates, reinstating VAT-free shopping for tourists and tackling shoplifting.

However, there was some good news: the threshold for VAT registration will rise from £85,000 to £90,000 while the main rate of national insurance contributions will be cut by 2 per cent.

Experts warn the measures will do little to help retailers who are struggling with rising costs, low consumer confidence and trading in a weak economy. “This was the budget of what was not announced, rather than what was,” says ParcelHero’s David Jinks. “As such, it will do little to increase

INSTAGRAM: @JEREMYHUNTMP

the confidence of SME retailers, manufacturers and other businesses, as customers continue to struggle with the cost of living.

Helen Dickinson, chief executive at the British Retail Consortium, adds: “Consumer confidence remains low and retail sales volumes in 2023 were the lowest in four years. Yet the chancellor has done little to promote growth and investment, instead hindering it with the business rates rise in April.

Government has had five years to fix the problems with business rates, as they promised in their election manifesto.”

Read more Spring Budget analysis on page 60.

Research reveals growing need for move to digital receipts Indie retailers wanting to operate a more sustainable business should switch to digital receipts, say experts.

According to data, around 10 million trees are cut down annually across the globe to print over 11.2 billion paper receipts. These often can’t be recycled and end up in landfill or clutter streets and car parks, creating more than 10,000 tonnes of paper waste.

Recent research from Yocuda, a world leader in digital solutions, reveals that 76 per cent of shoppers would choose digital receipts if they knew how many trees it could save.

That number rises to 87 per cent and 88 per cent for those aged 18-25 and 26-35 respectively. The vast majority of shoppers (80 per cent) would also choose digital receipts if they were 14 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

aware that most paper receipts are non-recyclable.

Furthermore, 67 per cent of shoppers believe it is environmentally wasteful to print till receipts automatically, and 87 per cent expect to see a decline in paper receipts over the next five years.

“There is no escaping the fact that paper receipts have a disastrous impact on the environment,” says Yocuda CEO Edward Drax. “Shoppers are calling for more transparency from retailers and expect strong sustainability policies to be put in place. Reducing paper receipts is an easy way for retailers to reduce their carbon footprint and appeal to the majority of environmentally conscious consumers.”

Organisers “blown away” by reaction to first Pure London x JATC

The inaugural Pure London x JATC closed on a high following three days of fashion, education and business opportunities. Over 300 brands presented their collections inside Olympia’s Grand Hall and upstairs Gallery space.

Buyers from Maison Et Vie, N Shelley in Billericay and Galeries Lafayette were among those attending the show, praising its “great buzz,” “beautiful accessories” and presentation of “everything together” under one roof.

Buyers were also able to make the most of the event’s “unrivalled content programme,” including catwalk designs from Graduate Fashion Foundation alumni and buying inspiration from trend forecaster Malaïka Ewande. Business education highlights meanwhile included a seminar by TikTok’s Thomas Wintle on social commerce.

Event director Gloria Sandrucci said the team was “blown away by visitors’ reactions.” She says: “Together we’ve been able to champion new and emerging brands as well as showcasing established brands from all over the world. It has been a pleasure to welcome so many retailers from across the country and internationally and to hear their positive feedback!”

The next edition of Pure London x JATC will take place at Olympia from 14-16 July.

PAGE TITLE

Tate Fashions Call House, Enfield Street, Leeds, LS7 1RF +44 7712398549 +44 1132459064

www.ellaboo.ie

MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 15

FASHION FIX

Boutique

Buyers praise Scoop layout and show experience Buyers were optimistic for the new season at the latest edition of Scoop, which took place at Olympia West alongside Pure London x JATC. Founder Karen Radley invited buyers to “a return to wonderment” with a showcase of inspiring collections from over 200 international designers.

Attendees were welcomed by oversized rabbit statues, upbeat music, a striking stiletto sculpture and stunning blooms at the show’s entrance. Inside, its ‘Puttin’ on the Ritz’ theme combined art deco-inspired furniture and retro wallpaper with large floral displays and an elegant champagne bar.

Buyers were able to source collections from exhibitors including Talis Chains, Corita Rose, Blackcliff, Dr. Bloom, Moves, Stoney Clover Lane, Story Wear, Dawn x Dare, Notshy Cashmere, Vaincourt Paris, Tanavana, Barefoot Dreams and Native Youth.

Indie retailers attending the show this season included Carl Jacklin

barometer

from Lincoln’s Agatha Boutique, Margaret Gallagher and Mary McSweeney of Ireland’s Les Jumelles as well as Malin and Aron Hose from Fifty 5a in Devon.

Deryane Tadd, owner of The Dressing Room in St Albans, said: “Scoop has a great buzz this season.

There is a lot of newness, and the theme is wonderful. There has been good energy across the show, and I have picked up new brands as well as buying from my existing favourites. It’s great to have three shows on at the same time and in one location, making buying convenient as well as enjoyable!”

Karen Radley added: “Everyone that has walked through the doors this season has commented on the ‘wonderment’ of the show, from the incredible new designers and collections they have discovered to the special environment we have created. We are closing our doors on what has been a fantastic season!”

INDUSTRY SALES FIGURES JANUARY 2024 (VERSUS JANUARY 2023)

-7.04% Average sales quantity

-2.34% Average selling price

-1.49% Profit margin These figures represent findings from a cross section of independent online and bricks-and-mortar retailers around the UK. Total stock management and EPoS provider Top to Toe has compiled this industry index to offer Boutique readers an insight into what’s happening on the high street and online.

Tel: 0203 376 5888 E: info@toptotoe.com Toptotoe.com

Blenheim Palace to unveil Icons of British Fashion exhibition Fashion fans will soon be able to visit an exhibition celebrating some of Britain’s best-loved designers at Oxfordshire’s Blenheim Palace.

Opening on Saturday 23 March, the Icons of British Fashion exhibition will showcase works by leading names including Zandra Rhodes and Stella McCartney among the palace’s priceless art collections.

Each room along the 300-year-old palace’s visitor route will pay homage to a British fashion icon, starting with designs by the late Dame Vivienne Westwood and creative partner Andreas Kronthaler in the Great Hall.

Other designers and brands in the 16 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

line-up include Jean Muir, Terry de Havilland, Turnbull and Asser, Bruce Oldfield, Barbour, Temperley London, Lulu Guinness and Stephen Jones Millinery for Christian Dior.

Kate Ballenger, keeper of palace and collections, comments: “This exhibition is the first of its kind at Blenheim and will be our biggest to date. Visitors will not only be able to experience the palace in a new way but also discover more about the remarkable British fashion design industry. The juxtaposition of the designer’s vision against the beautiful palace and collection will provide a visual feast for our visitors.”

Open until 30 June; tickets from £22 each via blenheimpalace.com

01784-482888

Sigal Distribution sigaldistribution@gmail.com

www.sigaldistribution.com

FASHION FIX

Life in a bubble

Inspired by textures found in nature, Danish slow fashion brand by basics’ has developed a new bubble knit for SS24 using the same high quality mulesing-free merino wool customers know and love. Garments in the raw, abstract-structured jacquard fabric are available in seven colourways with all pieces made to order. Delivery from May, no minimum order requirement; Tel: 07770 934 363 E: jeremy@cates.co.uk bybasics.com

Eco chic SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS AND BRANDS

Material girl

Female-founded sustainable brand Nudea has launched its first organic cotton underwear collection. Choose from super-soft multi-pack briefs, bralettes, vests and a bodysuit in classic black or white. £POA; E: info@nudea.com

Built to last

Made using recycled, bio-degradable and plant-based acetates, The Avantguard’s new sustainable sunglasses collection features 11 new styles in three colourways.

The brand produces its products in micro batches to minimise waste, carefully handcrafting each pair to the highest quality. £POA; Now available in five new colourful prints, E: info@theavantguard.com Kind Bag’s surprisingly useful pouch trio is made from 100 per cent plastic bottles destined for oceans and landfill. Fill with loose items that need organising - from lingerie and stationery to make-up and skincare. £POA; E: hello@ kindbag.co

A lot of bottle

Sustainable source

Crafted in natural leather ethically sourced from the food chain, Pherahs’ belt and wallet offers a stylish yet practical way to update jeans and trousers this AW24. £POA; E: dody@blackpr.co.uk 18 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

new M E R IN O BUBBL E WOOL

a raw, abstract structure jacquard knit inspired by nature 100% merino wool, naturally preorder today · delivery from may contact your local agent bybasics.com

FASHION FIX

Coast guard Pamper your skin with Chalk's latest Hand and Body Wash duo in its new signature Sandy Cove scent. Expect a fresh coastal-inspired aroma as well as hydrating and nourishing formulations designed to keep hands deeply nourished all year round. 6pk £46.50; wholesale.chalkuk.com

Butter me up

Now available in new sunny colourway Butter, Mustard Made’s the Lowdown locker offers maximum storage potential for bedrooms, home offices and hallways. £POA; uk.mustardmade.com/pages/stockist-application

THIS MONTH’S STANDOUT WOMENSWEAR AND ACCESSORIES

Making the cut

Elevate your denim selection this AW24 with Mos Mosh’s ultra-flattering Dara Deluxe Jeans in Dark Blue. £POA; E: cp@mosmosh.com

Let the sunshine Summer sensation

By Malina’s Paloma maxi dress in the brand’s Coastal Florals print is the perfect choice for summer garden parties and destination weddings. £POA; E: lucy@thebrandambassadors.london 20 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

Take refuge from the sun’s rays while looking stylish with Summery Copenhagen’s buttercup yellow bucket hat. £POA; E: tadas@ summerycopenhagen.com summerycopenhagen.com

COLLECTION AUTUMN-WINTER 2024 Stephen Joseph | T 07734 247 669 | info@capriceshoes.co.uk SCAN ME

capriceshoes

capricefootwear

capriceshoesgb

capriceshoes.com

Finalist 2023

FASHION FIX

Dressing up

Blending modern elegance with classic luxury, Middle Eastern label Azzalia creates opulent eveningwear in sumptuous fabrics. Expect timeless 1960s-inspired dresses featuring premium materials and extravagant details. £POA; Tel: 0097 1509 006 785 E: leah@azzalia.ae/ info@azzalia.ae

Lip service

British brand House of Holland has created a daring collection for AW24 featuring quirky shapes, head-turning prints and deep saturated hues. Wallflowers need not apply. £POA; E: dody@blackpr.co.uk

Boutique loves…

FASHION AND ACCESSORIES TO FALL HEAD OVER HEELS FOR

Into the blue

Now available in cobalt blue, Newgate’s Number Three Railway wall clock boasts a timeless minimalist design to brighten up any room. £POA; newgatetrade.com

Star gazing

Packaged inside a vintage-inspired velvet gift box, Amelia Scott’s handcrafted Celeste Cluster Bracelet features dazzling lab-grown cubic zirconia stones and delicate enamel charms. £POA; E: hello@amelia-scott.com

22 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

Statement making

Greek label Ozai N Ku creates elegant separates, dresses and knitwear boasting exclusive prints, clean lines and tempting textures. Its design team’s aim is to combine both style and comfort, choosing loose cut silhouettes and stretch fabrics across its timeless yet daring range. £POA; Tel: 07771 597 166 aptcollections.ltd.uk

Lily & Me

Lily & Me is on a mission to bring creative and considered clothing to your everyday.

Designed in-house at our Gloucestershire studio, we celebrate creativity and the original.

We create hand-drawn prints, unique colour palettes and carefully choose our fabrics. orders@lilyandmeclothing.com

lilyandme.com

+44(0) 1452 207 766

19 - 21 MARCH 2024

HONG KONG Bags | Footwear | Leathergoods | Travelware Fashion Accessories | Leather Garments

www.aplf.com

Stock Up

WHAT TO BUY NOW

REBECCA RHOADES

Girl gang

I

n celebration of this month’s International Women’s Day, we highlight some amazing female founders to know in 2024…

MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 25

FEMALE FOUNDERS

Women to watch AMAZING FEMALE-FOUNDED BRANDS EMPOWERING WOMEN AND CARING FOR THE PLANET

MUNTHE

Copenhagen-brand fashion brand Munthe began in 1994 as a partnership between Danish designers Naja Munthe and Karen Simonsen. By 2009 Naja had gone solo, eventually rerbranding the collection with a bigger focus on sustainability. Today Munthe is well-known around the world for its cool and conscious creations that merge fashion with art. For International Women’s Day 2024, the founder has designed a special charity t-shirt for the Danish Women’s Society, an organisation dedicated to keeping gender equality on the political agenda. “Of course we should have more women in power,” she says. “Of course we should have more women on boards. It’s a cliché that women aren’t brave enough. It’s also a lie; women are just as brave as men. The problem is that their courage didn’t pay off. The problem isn’t only childcare or structural. The real problem is that when women speak, men aren’t attending.”

CONTACT: E: hlm@munthe.com

REBECCA RHOADES

Employing a team of local seamstresses in Leeds, fashion designer Rebecca Rhoades creates fashion that celebrates women. Her self-titled womenswear collection has a strong focus on occasionwear and resortwear, serving up colourful dresses, separates and playsuits in block colours or the brand’s own exclusive prints. Each piece is designed in-house and made to order to minimise waste while its team uses any excess fabric to create accessories.

Cuttings that can’t be used are collected by a local charity that repurposes the materials for arts and crafts. Key pieces for SS24 include feminine maxi dresses in tropical prints, pop-bright mini dresses and animal print jumpsuits. Since launching in 2021, the brand has experienced 350 per cent growth and exports its collections around the world. This season sees its first foray into wholesale as it begins to build a network of retail stockists.

CONTACT: Tel: 0113 245 5187 E: info@rebeccarhoades.com

CLAIRE HILL DESIGNS

Named Accessories Brand of the Year 2023 at the Boutique Star Awards, Cardiff-based Claire Hill Designs specialises in responsibly crafted demi-fine fashion jewellery. Its eponymous founder, who launched the brand single-handedly during lockdown, creates pieces with longevity using recycled silver or thick 14k gold vermeil plate alongside lab grown gemstones and diamonds. Each piece comes inside 100 per cent recyclable packaging, including luxury pouches made from recycled bottles that can be recycled with domestic waste. The founder is also socially conscious, donating a portion of its profits to causes such as Welsh Women’s Aid, Choose Love, Trussell Trust and Black Lives Matter. Best-selling styles within the range include pop-bright enamel stacking rings, antique inspired huggies and star-emblem earrings and necklaces.

CONTACT: E: claire@clairehilldesigns.co.uk 26 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

Finalist

..

FROM MY MOTHER’S GARDEN ..

Limited edition clothing in exclusive prints capturing the magical beauty of nature.

BOUTIQUE MAGAZINE’S BRITISH BRAND OF THE YEAR AWARD WINNER 2022 frommymothersgarden.co.uk | info@frommymothersgarden.co.uk | 07825 148040

FEMALE FOUNDERS

COTI VISION

British female-founded brand Coti Vision has revolutionised the glasses market with its trend-led necklace reading glasses and chains. Created by Julie Hawkins and Nancy Gries, their vision was to create a stylish and wearable solution to help people keep their glasses to hand. The range includes its chunky acrylic Classic Glasses Chain in numerous colours and designs as well as smaller bead-style necklaces, each featuring silicone loops that attach to most frames.

The concept was pitched on Dragon’s Den in 2021 – earning the brand instant recognition. Many of its products incorporate recycled and natural materials such as those in its handmade Amore Italia Collection.

Heroes include its Necklace Reading Glasses, Elements pearl chains and Halo necklace or glasses holder.

CONTACT: E: info@cotivision.com cotivision.com

BEE & SONS

With a mission to keep fashion out of landfill, Deborah Bee launched sustainable knitwear brand Bee & Sons in 2020.

The label uses high quality recycled yarns such as cashmere to create its 100 per cent natural jumpers, cardigans, accessories and homewares. Its pieces are created by a specialist factory in Tuscany, which collects pre-consumer and post-consumer waste from around the world before colour-sorting, chopping, boiling and re-spinning it into fresh new yarn. The brand’s pieces are fully recyclable and made to last, with standouts including the striped Alice cardigan and chunky funnel neck Vanda jumper. To support International Women’s Day, the brand is pledging 20 per cent of its B2C sales to Body & Soul’s Braver Together programme, which offers guidance for mothers with children in mental health crisis.

CONTACT: Tel: 01373 830 085 E: hello@beeandsons.com

NAIA BEACH

Created by friends and former models Tess Daley and Gayle Lawton, Naia Beach is reshaping the luxury swimwear market with its stylish and empowering resortwear. Their aim is to make women feel incredible with designs that merge luxury fabrics with glamorous details and ultra-flattering fits. Buyers can expect impeccably cut swimsuits, bikinis and cover-ups in bold hues, striking prints and figure-enhancing materials.

Named Female Founded Brand of the Year 2023 in the Boutique Star Awards, the label is making waves in the swimwear sector thanks to its inclusive designs that are meticulously road-tested by its founders. This season the duo are also increasing their sustainable commitments with the addition of even more designs in recycled fabric.

CONTACT: E: melwood@thebellaagency.co.uk 28 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

AW24 TRENDS

Dream denim NEW SEASON MUST-HAVES IN FASHION’S MOST VERSATILE TRANS-SEASONAL FABRIC WORKING GIRL

Looking for denim in a more office-friendly silhouette? Blazers in the work-inspired fabric are gaining attention, bringing a modern twist to a classic. German womenswear brand Taifun is leading the charge with this sleek indigo number, which looks great styled with a ribbed knit and coordinating flared jeans. Tel: 0207 436 8383/ o777 592 3353 E: beau.scarlett-pitt@gerryweber.com

KEEP THINGS LOOSE

Loose-fit denim co-ordinates offer a contemporary take on every-day dressing. Pair Chalk’s new Armelle denim chambray wide legged culottes with its Frida Jacket to creating an effortlessly timeless look.

Available on short-order now, £34; wholesale.chalkuk.com 30 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

AW24 TRENDS EMBELLISH THE TRUTH

Inspired by her childhood passion for horse-riding, Naja Munthe combines rugged denim and ranch patterns alongside delicate fabrics in her eponymous brand’s AW24 collection. The silver chains and fringing on this skirt and jacket bring glamour to the Americana trend. £POA; E: hlm@munthe.com

SKIRT AROUND THE ISSUE

ROLL OUT THE BARREL

Denim maxi skirts started making a comeback in 2023 and they’re expected to continue to continue as aaskey a key autumn autumn trend. trend.

Highly versatile Highly versatile for dressing for dressing up or down, up orRails down, hits Railsthe hitsmark the mark with this withslightly this slightly flared style (pictured flared styleright) for AW24. for AW24.

Style just like a E: mbryant@rails.com great pair of jeans – anything goes! E: Likewise, Samsøe Samsøe’s Sashelly skirt mbryant@rails.com is perfect for anyone wanting to revive the Likewise, Samsøe Samsøe’s Sashelly skirt noughties denim mini skirt trend. is perfect for anyone wanting to revive E: thevitus@samsoe.com noughties denim mini skirt trend.

E: vitus@samsoe.com

It’s a divisive style, yet the barrel jean – which hugs the hips, goes baggy at the thighs and knees then tapers to the ankles – is quickly gaining momentum among stylish shoppers. Mos Mosh’s Andi Curve Jeans are a great option for AW24 and look great teamed with a ribbed knit and smart pair of loafers. £POA; E: cp@mosmosh.com

TEXAS HOLD ‘EM

Cowboy boots have been making their way back into wardrobes for the past few seasons and now shoppers are ready to go full Wild West. Sustainable denim brand Seventy + Mochi is embracing the trend for AW24, adding decorative stitching and embroidery to its blue denim and cotton shirts. Yee-haw! £POA; E: ella@somewhereagency.com MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 31

ACCESSORIES

Fashion Extras GEMMA WARD PICKS OUT THIS MONTH’S BEST BAGS, JEWELS AND SLIPPERS

Happily ever after

Celebrating the strength of connection, Kit Heath’s Silver Bevel Unity ring features a trio of everlasting circles intricately bonded together. £POA; Tel: 01271 329 123 E: sales@kitheath.com

Walking on sunshine

Made from Australian sheepskin with flexible rubber soles, Emu Australia’s iconic Mayberry Slippers will provide an easy transition from winter mornings to sunny spring days. £POA; Tel: 0207 713 2080 32 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

Be kind

Shooting star

Featuring three prints by Italian artist Marina Ester Castaldo, Kind Bag’s latest sustainable tote collection will bring a pop of vibrant colour to everyday life. £POA; E: hello@kindbag.co

Crafted in waxed cotton yarn and finished with a 9-carat gold star charm, Atelier VM’s Sister Stella Bracelet will bring joy to wrists from now until forever. £POA; E: sales@ ateliervm.com ateliervm.com

Raining cats and dogs

Out of this world

In a choice of three different dog prints, animal lovers won’t be able to resist the Original Duckhead’s new umbrella collab with Parisian brand Coucou Suzette. £POA; originalduckhead.com/pages/ wholesale

Orange crush

The SS24 collection by US-based designer Daniela Uribe includes colourful sandals crafted in Italy using premium materials. Available in up to UK size 10.5; E: dody@blackpr.co.uk

Symbolising the alignment of the sun, moon and stars, Moushe’s Equinox Pendant is crafted in sterling silver, covered with rose gold vermeil and finished with sparkling cubic zirconia. £POA; E: freya@blackpr.co.uk

Bag for life

Available in a range of sizes and leathers, Kerikit England’s awardwinning Amber backpack boasts a plethora of smart features for every woman and occasion. £POA; Tel: 0161 818 9038

ACCESSORIES

If the cap fits

Made from 100 per cent cashmere, the ultra-luxurious Roger cap by Italian label Borsalino is a timeless investment piece that’s crafted to last.

Available in 4 sizes, £POA; E: showroom@borsalino.com

Sleep easy

Featuring natural fabrics and finishes, sustainable brand Nudea has introduced new colourway Pink Fondant to its mix and match sleep collection. £POA; E: info@nudea.com

Positive thinking

Emblazoned with feel-good affirmations, Ayda Activewear’s 3-pk Live the F*cking Dream socks are designed to make a statement wherever you go. £POA; E: lois@in-addition.com

Greece is the word

Caroline Svedbom’s 2024 resort collection celebrates the beauty of the Greek Islands with statement jewellery featuring shells, gemstones and evil eyes. £POA; Tel: 07778 158 986 oldstrom.com

Colour pop

Handmade in the UK by local artisans, Amelia Scott’s velvet scrunchies feature the brand’s own exclusive prints. £POA; E: hello@amelia-scott.com

Self-care

Perfect for when you’ve been staring at a screen for too long, BeautyPro’s Warming Eye Masks revive tired eyes and aid relaxation in 20 minutes flat. £POA; faire.com.direct/beautypro

Perfect partners

Pink City Prints founder Molly Russel has designed an exclusive beauty pouch for L’Occitante containing four travelsized best-sellers from its skin and bodycare range. £POA; E: contact@loccitane.co.uk

Throwing shade

A summer update on its popular Oxley fedora, Hicks and Brown’s wide-brimmed Hemley is a timeless classic for sun-soaked days. £POA; E: wholesale@hicksandbrown.com

Girl power

Inspired by art and history, femalefounded brand Pherahs creates ethical accessories such as this vibrant Women Warriors square scarf. £POA; E: dody@blackpr.co.uk MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 33

SHOW SPOTLIGHT

Made for walking FROM THE FOOD TO THE FOOTWEAR, GEMMA WARD FINDS OUT WHY MICAM MILANO IS WELL WORTH A VISIT

O

ver 40,000 visitors poured into Milan’s Fiera Milano Rho exhibition centre this February for a four-day fashion extravaganza. The very international trade fair encompassed 55-yearold Micam – otherwise known as ‘the world’s biggest footwear show’ – alongside leather, accessories and jewellery expos Mipel, Lineapelle, The One Milano and Milano Fashion and Jewels.

The combined events pulled in visitors from 150 countries, with some travelling from as far afield as Japan, the USA and China. Inside attendees could explore around 20 different pavilions, each roughly the size of Olympia’s Grand Hall, positioned down a kilometre-long pedestrianised street.

Micam itself took over four of the halls this season, splitting its footwear brands into Premium, Everyday and Contemporary. There were three special areas within the Micam X area, too: Trends and Materials, Emerging Designers and The Future of Retail. Each presented buyers with innovations, insightful seminars, the latest footwear trends and cutting-edge technologies.

34 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

Although still recovering from the pandemic, Micam’s sprawling size remains impressive - especially when compared to UK shows. Almost 1,000 footwear brands exhibited this season (a slight drop on last year’s AW23 edition), with just over half coming from Italy itself. Exhibitors included major names such as Kickers, Rieker, Caprice, Josef Seibel, Steve Madden, Valentino and Roberto Cavalli as well as Marco Tozzi, Tamaris, Rosamund Muir, Wonders, Victoria, Tosca Blu, Fly London and Lemon Jelly.

Show highlights

Central to the AW24 show was Micam’s Emerging Designers area, which showcased footwear by 12 international creatives who had been specially selected by an expert jury. There was also a special section for Italian Start Ups, featuring innovative solutions and sustainable footwear projects led by young Italian entrepreneurs.

Another key draw for buyers was Micam’s seminar programme, which pulled in crowds of visitors

SHOW SPOTLIGHT WHERE TO STAY

We stayed at one of Micam’s partner hotels, Melia Milano. Show organisers put on a free shuttle service for buyers, which leaves the hotel every morning and returns each evening. Alternatively, there’s a Metro station nearby with direct trains running to Fiera Milano in around 15 minutes or you can travel in the opposite direction to get to central Milan landmarks such as Duomo di Milano. At the time of going to press, room prices start from £300 per night during the next edition of the show.

Alternatives include NH Milano Fiera, positioned directly outside the expo centre, with rooms starting from £240 per night. There are guest houses and apartments nearby from £135 per night and options in the centre of Milan from £130 (booking.com).

HOW TO GET THERE

throughout the first three days. Content was informative and inspiring, with buying and trends insight delivered by experts from Livetrend and WGSN. Attendees could also listen to free engaging talks on a range of hot topics including the future of footwear, creating a more sustainable industry and how some global streetwear retailers are winning over shoppers with a focus on entertainment and experience.

Despite declining exhibitor numbers, Micam remains unrivalled for indie retailers looking for the world’s best footwear. Buyers can also access a huge selection of additional categories during their visit at the venue’s sister shows. Clearly, international buying trips are expensive and the cost needs to be justified. However, in just a couple of days in Milan, retailers can source refreshing new brands from across Europe, uncover the latest international footwear and accessories trends, make new industry connections and hear inspiring insight from global authorities. And for many small retail businesses in the current climate, that could be money well spent.

Next season’s show takes place from 15 – 18 September and promises to be an all-round brighter affair offering footwear, Italian food and Prosecco in the late summer sunshine.

Milan is easily accessible from across the UK with airlines flying to Malpensa airport every day from Heathrow, Gatwick, London City Airport, Stanstead, Manchester, Birmingham, Edinburgh and Bristol. We booked Easyjet flights around three weeks in advance and paid £126 return with hold luggage. The show’s organisers also put on several free shuttle buses from the airport each morning and back again in the afternoons (visit micam. it/en/hospitality-services/micam-shuttles/ to confirm times). Coordinating flights with this service is a good way to keep costs downs as taxis cost €100 each way. The show also provides a free bus service to Milan city centre.

WHAT TO EAT

Even if you don’t venture further than Fiera Milano Rho, delicious Italian food is still pretty much guaranteed. There are numerous restaurants and bars within the exhibition centre and prices are surprisingly reasonable. Coffee cost around €2 on the show floor and sandwiches started at €5.

There was also a bar serving prosecco from around €6 per glass.

MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 35

BRAND PROFILE ranges that roll over such as our jeans. But when it comes to the main range, buyers need to make sure they order enough for their business. The team takes a lot of pride in our product range and we don’t ever want to see it damaged by heavy discounting.”

4. It’s picky about stockists

Supporting role

5 WAYS BRITISH WOMENSWEAR LABEL MARBLE CHAMPIONS INDEPENDENT RETAILERS

A

s well as supplying stunning commercial womenswear, Glasgowbased label Marble is dedicated to supporting its retail stockists. Here we reveal the key advantages indies can expect when investing in its new-look collection...

1. Marble doesn’t sell directly to shoppers, ever

Many indie retailers find themselves competing with suppliers online. However, Marble directors Nick and Lynne Williams have made a commitment to supply their collection to retailers only and don’t ever sell directly to consumers: “I think this helps give Marble a real point of difference as retailers can rest assured that we won’t start discounting online and forcing them into early promotions,” says Lynne. “We don’t want to be retailers – our focus is always on supporting our stockists as much as possible.”

2. Retailers make the call on drops

Marble offers a comprehensive collection each season encompassing 120 garments each in four different 36 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

colourways. But rather than splitting the collection into stories and stipulating when they land instore, buyers can choose when each product arrives (minimum 40 pieces in one box). This helps retailers keep their offer fresh all season while freeing up stock room space and aiding cashflow. “We have both been retailers ourselves so we’re aware of the pressures independents face,” says Lynne. “Customers can choose when they receive Marble pieces and we can stagger as many drops as they need throughout the season. We don’t know when certain garments are going to sell in-store – our stockists know their customers best.”

3. The brand only produces garments to order

Shoppers will never find a Marble garment on the rails of a discount store or designer outlet. Why? Because the British brand makes everything to order for its stockists each season to eliminate the risk of overstock. “Our collections are available on a forward order basis and we don’t hold left-over stock,” says Lynne. “If customers need in-season top-ups, there are certain

Marble is conscious about distribution and won’t ever supply more than one retailer in the same vicinity. What’s more, it only supplies retailers operating a bricks-andmortar store, meaning its stockists don’t have to compete with pure play online businesses: “I think it’s easier for online retailers without a physical store to cut prices and start discounting,” says Lynne. “This doesn’t fit in with our ethos as a brand and it can be quite damaging to the industry. We get asked all the time but it’s always going to be the same answer: unless your business has a bricks-and-mortar store, you won’t be able to stock Marble.”

5. Retailers get free marketing tools

Marble invests heavily in its imagery and product descriptions to make online selling and marketing easier for stockists. Retailers can access a full bank of free high quality images every season to upload onto their social media channels and websites.

It also provides a spread sheet containing care instructions, colours, sizes and fit for each garment that can be easily copied and pasted into websites. Finally, Marble supplies stockists with free A3 strut cards, which it produces for every style and colour photographed on a model. If retailers order the pieces featured, these boards are sent out with each delivery to help stockists promote the collection in-store. “Supporting our customers with images and product information is something we do very well,” says Lynne. “We want to help our stockists sell as much as possible and providing these resources is all part and parcel of Marble’s service.”

To view UK showroom dates and show venues near you please visit www.godske.com/g-en/trade-shows GODSKE GROUP, LONDON SHOWROOM, Ground Floor, Great Titchfield House, 14-18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD TEL: 0207-636 3063 | FAX: 0207-636 3863 | EMAIL: pug@godske.com

W E C A R E W H AT Y O U W E A R To view UK showroom dates and show venues near you please visit www.godske.com/g-en/trade-shows GODSKE GROUP, LONDON SHOWROOM, Ground Floor, Great Titchfield House, 14-18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD TEL: 0207-636 3063 | FAX: 0207-636 3863 | EMAIL: pug@godske.com

42 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

Down to Business

INSIGHT FOR FASHION INDIES

Step up

W ARJUN MYANGER ON UNSPLASH

hile experts believe consumer confidence is returning, fashion retailers are bearing the brunt of the UK’s weak economy. This month we reveal what to do if your business is struggling (and how to proceed in the worst-case scenario)…

MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 43

DOWN TO BUSINESS

Danger ahead

IS YOUR RETAIL BUSINESS STRUGGLING WITH RISING COSTS AND DECLINING SALES? MERCER AND HOLE’S HENRY PAGE REVEALS WHAT TO DO IF DISASTER STRIKES

I

t’s a deeply concerning reality that many womenswear independents are closing their doors around the country. Figures from the Office for National Statistics confirmed that December 2023 was retail’s quietest precursory month before Christmas in three years, with sales dropping by 3.2 per cent on 2022.

Most retailers rely on a busy and profitable golden quarter to succeed. So, if you found sales were slow in December and still haven’t picked up, taking swift action is key to your survival.

Take action

Knowledge is power and having good cashflow forecasting and modelling tools will help you make informed business decisions. It’s essential to know what payments are coming up and to look at areas where you can make cost savings to pay. You can’t control fixed costs such as rent, but you can control payroll and suppliers. These areas are often the place to start to maintain a healthy cash position.

Access to real time financial data will also allow you to analyse trends such as what is or isn’t selling 44 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

and which products are producing the best margins.

Arming yourself with this information can help you adjust your product mix accordingly.

Ask yourself if you really understand your current customers and potential market. Do you have loyal customers who might be key to your business survival? If you do, try to uncover why they are loyal and how you can retain them.

Also, think about ‘floating’ customers who are ambivalent to whether they buy from you or your competitors. How can you entice them to return and create more loyalty? There is a reason why large stores invest so much in loyalty schemes. In addition to rewarding customers, such programmes can also give you a huge amount of data about spending patterns that can be analysed and used to create more sale opportunities.

Consider the whole shopping experience and value your store offers customers. Boutiques should really aim to set themselves apart from large stores, fast fashion and pure play online retailers. There is a big rise in sustainable shopping and in-store experiences,

DOWN TO BUSINESS It’s good to talk, so invest in training your staff to open conversations with customers. Encourage them to ask soft questions that will provide useful feedback, such as: “did you find everything you needed today?”

“Do we stock the kind of brands you are looking for?”

Or, “what else would you like to see in our store?”

Damage control

which attracts more ethically driven purchases and appeals to groups such as Gen Z or cash rich/conscious middle-aged shoppers.

Aim to create an outstanding customer experience from start to finish. If you are thinking of moving into the sustainable fashion arena, be wary of issues around greenwashing. Today’s customers are clued up and willing to do their research, so make sure you have a genuine, ethical proposition.

Always make it your aim to attract new customers.

This may sound obvious, but sending out a couple of emails inviting people to drop by isn’t going to cut it; give real thought to your promotions throughout the year. Can you regularly show customers new items you have coming in on social media to drive interest or host events to draw people into the physical store?

Know what you want to be and make changes to achieve your purpose. However, don’t change everything, everywhere, all at once – doing so would cost a lot and be unsettling for customers. Plus, you’d have no idea what worked and why, and what was a waste of money. So, plan and take your time then monitor the results.

Businesses with poor cash flow need to understand HMRC’s position as a secondary preferential creditor whose claims are paid after preferential amounts are paid to employees. HMRC will allow you to make an arrangement to pay if you can’t pay on time, however they are less generous on terms than they were during the pandemic. Communicating your issues is key if there is no other alternative.

Communication with your landlord is also important if you are not able to make rent payments in full for the next quarter. If you are in a prime site, they are likely to want to remove you straight away. However, for those in medium to poor sites, landlords might be more accommodating as they will be keen to avoid taking on the responsibility of business rates if they were unable to relet quickly. Talk to them about what you can pay, but don’t take advantage of the situation as you will ruin your longer-term relationship.

For businesses that would be otherwise profitable if they were not saddled with unserviceable debts, it’s worth considering whether a Company Voluntary Arrangement (CVA) or a Prepack Administration is suitable. A CVA can be used where creditors will be willing to accept a compromise on their debt. However, you will need to have the support of HMRC in relation to their preferential debt (VAT and PAYE) as well as your secured creditors.

If an agreement can’t be reached with creditors, then a prepack sale may be a constructive solution. A prepack sale, to either an independent third party or connected party, can free a prospectively profitable business from historic liabilities that have led to an unserviceable debt burden.

Typically, a sale takes place, so the business closes one day and reopens the next, to minimise the impact of a protracted insolvency period. The benefits of a prepack may include continuation of employment for the workforce, a viable tenant for landlords, a profitable business able to pay taxes going forward and continuation of supplier/customer relations. The prepack should also provide the best return possible to existing creditors from the distressed position the insolvent company was facing.

It is inevitable that creditors will face losses in a prepack, so every effort should be taken to ensure it is the best solution available to the company prior to embarking on the process. If a director is considering a CVA or Prepack, specialist advice should be sought to ensure that the process is transparent, and the transaction has the best prospect of success.

MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 45

DOWN TO BUSINESS

Time to shine NINE WAYS TO CREATE A WINNING BOUTIQUE STAR AWARDS ENTRY

E

only help you decide which awards your business is eligible to enter, but it will also give you key points to highlight when writing your entry.

1. Read the criteria (carefully)

Putting a winning awards entry together is going to take time and consideration, so don’t expect to be able to do it all in one go. We’ve made it even easier to enter this year.

You can submit an entry online or download a Word document from our website and answer the questions at

ntries for the fourth Boutique Star Awards are now open and there’s never been a better time to shout about your business and stand out from the crowd. Here’s how to win over the judges with a exceptional entry…

Before planning your entry, visit the categories section on our website to read the entry criteria. This will not 46 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

2. Take your time

your own speed. Alternatively, email gemma@bpmedialtd.co.uk for a form.

3. Sell yourself

Your written awards entry is a chance to really sell your business – so don’t hold back. Include every detail you can think of that makes your store or brand stand out from the crowd and proves you’re a worthy winner. While we often don’t like to shout about our achievements in real life, this is the time to really blow your own trumpet.

DOWN TO BUSINESS POMODORO

4. Use your personality

An entry that’s upbeat and interesting to read will catch the judges’ attention. So, when writing about your business’s strengths and achievements, try to put your personality across too. The judges are looking for outstanding businesses, but anything that makes them smile (or cry) is bound to be memorable.

5. Back up your claims

Don’t just say you go the extra mile for your customers, explain how.

Likewise, you can include graphs and data to prove your business is commercially successful. The images you submit are also an important part of your entry as they give the judges a visual guide to your boutique and website. Your store images don’t have to be professional photographs – Instagram shots are perfectly acceptable – just make sure they show off your business at its best.

6. Ask for help

Your customers will undoubtedly have lots of reasons why they choose to shop with you - so asking for their input.

Doing so could uncover some positive points you may not have considered for your entry. Likewise, your staff are likely to be invaluable in putting your entry together, so involve them in the process too.

DOMINO STYLE

7. Enter more than one award

There’s no limit on how many categories each boutique or brand can enter, so check to see which awards you’re eligible for and enter them all. That way you’ll have even more chances of winning or scooping several categories across the board.

8. Check and recheck your entry

It may sound basic, but you should put as much effort into proofreading your entry as you would a job application or CV. The odd typo is forgivable but sending an entry that’s littered with mistakes will make the text difficult to read and the judges may question your professionalism and commitment.

9. Don’t leave it until the last minute

You might work better under pressure but giving yourself plenty of time to put your entry together will make the process less stressful and probably produce the best results. The deadline for this year’s entries is Wednesday 31 July, but our best advice is to start working on it as soon as you can.

Enter now at boutique-magazine.co.uk/submit-an-entry MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 47

PAGE TITLE

2024 Categories RETAILER AWARDS Fashion Independent of the Year

S TAR

AWAR DS

2024

DON’T MISS OUT ON THE PARTY OF THE YEAR! CELEBRATING INDEPENDENT FASHION RETAILERS AND SUPPLIERS

For entry and ticket information please contact julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk

48 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

Independent Group of the Year Social Media Strategy of the Year New Independent of the Year Sustainability Advocate of the Year Community Hero of the Year NEW: Independent Employer of the Year NEW: Store Design of the Year NEW: Shop Window of the Year SUPPLIER AWARDS British Brand of the Year International Brand of the Year Fashion Agency of the Year Fashion Distributor of the Year Female-Founded Brand of the Year Sustainable Brand of the Year NEW: Footwear Brand of the Year NEW: Jewellery Brand of the Year NEW: EPoS Provider of the Year SPECIAL AWARDS Newcomer Lifetime Achievement Outstanding Business

Shop Talk

INDUSTRY OPINION

Spring update

H SOPHIE BLAND, BOD & TED

aving unveiled a newlook boutique for SS24, Bod & Ted’s Sophie Bland is focused on driving sales with a unique product edit and standout shopping experience. This month we speak to the indie owner about buying, succeeding on social media and working as a team…

MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 49

SHOP TALK SOPHIE WITH HER CHILDREN

SOPHIE BLAND

Keeping it fresh

HAVING STARTED THE YEAR WITH A STORE REFURBISHMENT, BOD & TED IS READY FOR WHATEVER THE NEW SEASON BRINGS. HERE OWNER SOPHIE BLAND SPEAKS TO GEMMA WARD ABOUT EVOLVING WITH THE TIMES, CREATING A CIRCULAR FASHION ECONOMY AND THE PERPETUAL QUEST FOR NEWNESS

B

od & Ted’s Sophie Bland spent the best part of January wielding a paintbrush. Her 15-yearold womenswear store, the second in a now scaled down portfolio, has just undergone a dramatic two-week renovation. Fixtures and fittings were unceremoniously ripped out, stud walls removed, new flooring 50 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

laid, and walls coated with a fresh lick of paint. The result? A simple yet beautiful space reminiscent of a cool Copenhagen boutique. “I wanted to give the store a more high-end feel to match the premium collections we’ve moved towards,” she says. “We’ve gone for a pared back aesthetic with neutral shades and natural textures that really let the products shine.”

The refurbishment is the first full makeover for the Tunbridge Wells store, which originally opened in 2010. Over the years the business has experienced enviable commercial success as well as industry recognition, earning itself a loyal fan base, strong sales and the Drapers Womenswear Independent of the Year title in 2022.

But it hasn’t been an easy journey for Sophie, who sadly lost her mum and business partner Yvonne Brown during the pandemic. The pair originally started Bod & Ted together in 2008, having taken over the premises of a former occasionwear shop in Devon’s Salcombe: “I was only 21 years old at the time and I’d been working in the boutique while studying,” says Sophie. “The owner mentioned that she was looking for someone to take over the lease. So, over a glass of wine, my mum and I decided to go for it. I was very naive and didn’t really know what I was letting myself in for, which in hindsight was probably a good thing.”

While they had no formal experience in running a retail business, the duo was passionate about the venture and hungry for success. They decided to overhaul the shop completely, keeping only a handful of its stock and fixtures while giving it a new name and

SHOP TALK

ethos. Spotting a gap in the market for a store specialising in French and Scandi brands, they began securing labels such as American Vintage, which remains a mainstay today.

“Mum was really cool and a bit of nomad; she always had a great eye for style,” says Sophie. “But she was good with numbers too and had natural business acumen. We made a great team, and she was pivotal in the business’s success.”

Thinking big

Their idea for the original Bod & Ted – affectionately named after Sophie’s sisters – was to create a “beautiful Aladdin’s Cave” full of interesting fashion, trinkets and treasures. This concept remains more than a decade on, with the owner carefully sourcing colourful creations from around the world to create a dazzling and unique edit.

The store’s current brand list includes international favourites such as Essential Antwerp, Rails, Frame and Munthe alongside London labels Hayley Menzies and Bella Freud. There’s also footwear by Hoff, Veja, Birkenstock and Alohas alongside quirky homewares like Heather Evelyn’s slogan candles.

By 2010 sales were buoyant, so the pair decided to take on a second store close to Yvonne’s

home in Tunbridge Wells. This was supplemented by a third boutique in Brighton where Sophie was living at the time: “While trade was good in Devon, we found that it was very seasonal and wanted to try a different market,” she says.

“But we soon realised that running three separate stores located quite a distance away from each other wasn’t viable. Ultimately, we decided to close the others and concentrate fully on Tunbridge Wells.”

During this time the duo also tested the online market with a basic transactional website.

As an early industry adopter of e-commerce, Sophie admits it was a real learning curve and took up a large portion of her time (she recalls having to painstakingly photograph every item on a mannequin herself ).

But this foresight paid off, with the business experiencing consistent year-on-year growth. During the lockdowns, when the owner “began to take online seriously,” sales snowballed. And today, 30 per cent of the business’s revenue is now generated online: “A lot of customers found us in the pandemic when we were posting daily reels and broadcasting lives,” she says.

“We now send parcels out to people all over the country. Some of our best customers have never even set foot in the physical store.”

Team work

Instagram remains an important channel for Bod & Ted – so much so that Sophie employs a dedicated part-time social media and e-commerce manager: “Ellie plans all our online content,” she says. “We always have lots of ideas going back and forth then we get together every couple of weeks to film.”

The team also includes store manager Paula and part-time sales assistants Sophie, Rosie and Rachel. The owner is also pivotal behind the scenes, splitting her time between working on the shop floor, heading up the store’s buying and managing the business – all while juggling two young children aged four and seven. “My team is amazing,” says Sophie. “Working with them is one of my favourite things about running the business.

I couldn’t do it without them.”

Despite various challenges such as Brexit and the cost of living crisis, Bod & Ted has retained a strong position - largely because of Sophie’s ability to react. The store’s edit has become more high-end in recent seasons to give it a clearer point of difference (for summer, dresses range from £110 to £460 while jeans are priced from £240 to £340). Meanwhile, the focus is now on more transitional ‘buy now, wear now’ pieces, particularly in autumn/ MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 51

SHOP TALK TEAM BOD & TED AT THE BRITISH FASHION AWARDS

winter: “We’ll always stock high summer fashion and resortwear as that does very well for us,” she says. “But for AW24, I’ve definitely been more focused. The season has become much shorter, so you really have to get it right.

That doesn’t mean playing it safe, however; people look to us to bring in something different and exciting.”

Like most buyers, Sophie spends a couple of months a year on buying trips and travels to London and Paris to visit trade fairs and showrooms. The retail owner also counts Instagram as an invaluable tool for sourcing new undiscovered brands: “You have to stay one step ahead with product sourcing to ensure you’re offering something different,” she says. “I often find new brands on social media, which is a great resource, but it can still be challenging. You can start stocking a relatively unknown brand and then other retailers follow suit. It’s up to brands to look after distribution; if the market becomes too saturated, we have to drop certain collections as it goes against our ethos.”

Spring fever

Since the SS24 collections began arriving, Bod & Ted has been selling lots of separates, knitwear, basics and trainers.

“It’s all about separates at the moment, which is nice as it’s been dress heavy for so long,” says Sophie. “Denim is also having a moment and we do really well with our jeans.”

New additions include Australian brand Palm Noosa, which offers “really beautiful, printed linens and cottons.”

The retail owner has also brought in Spanish brand The New Society’s “incredible holiday pieces” as well as denim by Citizens of Humanity. Sustainability is important for Sophie when choosing new brands and she often favours collections with a back story, such as ethical label Seventy + Mochi.

Bod & Ted has always been somewhat ahead of the curve when it comes to its environmental efforts. From the beginning, its ethos was to encourage customers to reuse and recycle, whether browsing its rail of vintage gems or 52 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

STORE MANAGER PAULA

buying a preloved dress. In recent years Sophie decided to move the idea up a notch with the introduction of its circular fashion initiative: Bod & Ted Retread.

“Customers can come to us with a preloved piece bought from the shop and will receive a voucher in return,” she says. “We only accept garments that are in good condition, but there are no other stipulations. These are sold in-store or through our dedicated Instagram page (@bodandtedretread). We don’t make a profit, but the scheme does promote sustainability while encouraging customers to come back to the store.”

Getting shoppers into the bricks-and-mortar store is an eternal endeavour for the owner. February saw an uptick in footfall thanks to its grand refurbishment, which enticed regulars in and drove sales. Sophie, who designed the space herself and enlisted the same builder who renovated her house, plans to celebrate in style this spring: “The refurb has been my focus for the past six months so it’s so lovely to see it come to life,” she says.

“We’ll be holding a party when the weather improves.

Getting everything finished in time was stressful, but I’m so pleased with the result.”

So, what’s next on the indie owner’s to-list now the new-look store is complete? “We’re celebrating our fifteenth birthday this year and I’m planning another party to mark the occasion,” she says. “But my long-term focus is on e-commerce as that’s the area I think we can really grow. And of course, as always, I’ll be working hard to keep Bod & Ted’s offer fresh and exciting. I think that’s ultimately what continues to set us apart.”

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SHOP TALK

PHOTO BY CLARK STREET MERCANTILE ON UNSPLASH

“We can only hope putting more money into people’s pockets will encourage positive change” BIRA CEO ANDREW GOODACRE UNPICKS THE SPRING BUDGET

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his month’s Spring Budget announcement was quite uneventful from a retail business perspective. That didn’t take me by surprise, as we’d been expecting more focus on public spending and fiscal measures for the general public as we build up to a general election later this year.

Looking at the detail, I believe there was a missed opportunity to make the current 75 per cent retail rates discount permanent. We have had this discount, at differing levels, since 2019 and we would like this to be instated indefinitely. In an ideal world the same discount would be in place across the entire UK (at the moment Scotland does not offer these discounts and Wales reduced it to 40 per cent). We all know that the pressures on small retailers are the same no matter where you are located, and we will continue to campaign for parity and permanence.

The one positive I’m taking from the budget is the reduction in National Insurance contributions. I would rather have seen income tax cuts, but at least this is a step in the right direction. All the official stats tell us how difficult it has been for 54 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

non-food retailers over the past 18 months, with reduced consumer confidence and declining spending as a result. We can only hope that putting more money into people’s pockets will encourage a positive change in shopping behaviour.

I also see a positive in the fact that inflation is expected to fall further and average salary increases are now higher than inflation. When wages are rising by more than inflation, it should again make people feel wealthier and become a catalyst for more consumer confidence and higher spending. It would be even better if we could see the Bank of England deliver a cut in interest rates.

While sales remain sluggish for many, I’m increasingly concerned by new regulations that inevitably mean higher costs for businesses.

The cost of running a shop is already high and set to increase with the National Minimum Wage rising by 10 per cent in April. Now I’m seeing new regulations that won’t affect every retailer but will impact many. The majority of these are focused on waste disposal for electrical items, packaging and textiles. As from 6 April, businesses

in Wales will need to sort their waste by product category, inevitably leading to higher collection costs. It is right to place a focus on waste reduction and recycling. However, is it correct for retailers to pay more for waste created by product manufacturers and suppliers? Also, in the past we have seen policies implemented in the devolved countries adopted in England, so we will watch this carefully.

It is fair to say the running your own business is never easy. Bira is itself a small business and I share the pain experienced by indie retailers when it comes to making sense of the finances. When times are difficult, as they are now, it is easy to be pessimistic. Some business owners may well be optimistic as we look forward to better trading conditions – I certainly try to find positives in everything. However, whether you are a pessimist or an optimist, it’s probably more important to be an activist and make a positive difference. Trading conditions are tough yet I see retailers redoubling their efforts to find a way forward. I’ll always admire that level of resilience.

In the slow lane

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feminine prints and outerwear with a utilitarian twist. Key pieces include its best-selling oatmeal cotton blend neppy Pearl Jumper with cable detail, which effortlessly pairs with almost any outfit. Its Rita Frill shirt, available in both print and plain, is also a new season favourite. Crafted in soft organic cotton or sustainable Ecovero Lenzing Viscose, it features a frilled Mandarin collar and delicate gathering at the yoke. Each piece is made responsibly at Lily and Me’s own factory in Nepal. Available on forward order with some stock carried throughout the season for immediate delivery.

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MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 55

SHOP TALK

“Brands have listened and produced the collections we need” DERYANE TADD IS FOUNDER OF AWARD-WINNING WOMENSWEAR INDEPENDENT THE DRESSING ROOM

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ince opening its doors in 2005, St Albans indie The Dressing Room has won multiple awards for its outstanding brand mix and customer experience. Here founder Deryane Tadd reveals how she's steering the business through various widespread fashion retail challenges as well as a devastating cyber-attack...

How is business at the moment?

Last year was certainly challenging at The Dressing Room due to many factors. However, I'm positive for 2024 as I have responded to the change in how my customers are dressing, looked at all aspects of my business and tightened up my edit. I'm confident in my new season collections and can already see that it is hitting the right spot for my customers. They are loving the new season collections which have a more ‘buy now, wear now’ feel than last year. Brands have listened and reacted to the change in seasonality and have produced collections that we need, so 2024 is off to a good start. Thank goodness!

What has been selling well in-store?

It’s all about separates right now. Whether that is a great top paired with some new denim or a more tailored look. Soft, Parisian chic is back from brands like Ba&sh and Louise Mischa with their gorgeous blouses and quilted jackets. Discreet chic from Scandi cool brands is also performing very well – tailored waistcoats worn back with cool girl denim and a logo tee is exactly what my customers want right now. Relaxed, laid back cool from Rails is always a winner and then there is also that very feminine and elegant look from brands like Dea Kudibal that never goes out of style; it always looks sharp and elegant.

How about online?

Online sales mostly follow the same pattern as in-store.

The Dressing Room’s customers are invested in how we style our collections. They follow our lead and take their inspiration from all the elements we have on our site, like the inspiration hub and styling tips on the look book, social and blog.

56 | boutique. | MARCH 2024

How have you approached buying for AW24?

I am following the same approach as I did for SS24 and AW23: tighter edits that sell out quickly with a more seasonal approach to when they hit the store. I buy what feels right and what I feel my customer will love. Right now, she wants newness and not repetition. It has to be something that she really ‘has to have.’ Gone are the days of buying things just because they performed well in the past. I’m having to really analyse and think about what I’m putting into the store, particularly because autumn has become a very short season now in fashion. It’s warm until October and then the madness of discounting kicks in on the high street from November and I feel the season never fully goes back to full price across the board. It's crazy and beyond frustrating as it's killing what used to be the strongest season. I never discount until after Christmas, but it does make for a challenging season when all around is on sale.

Which trade shows did you visit and what are your thoughts on the new collections?

I attended CIFF and Scoop this season. I’m seeing some very strong collections from a lot of my brands and sadly some that are struggling to adapt to the changing trends.

Personally, I’m loving the sharp, clean lines of the Scandi brands. I think they are getting it just right at the moment.

SHOP TALK

What are you finding most challenging currently as a small business owner?

There have been many challenges in recent years as we know. 2023 felt like the year of the cyber gremlins for me. The Dressing Room was hit with the swan retail hack along with many others, which impacted our stock and EPoS systems and is still ongoing to some degree. I was then hit with a major attack on my website, which has had far reaching effects for my online trade. Cybercrime is not something that I’m well versed in dealing with and I have to put my trust in my third party partners, which is difficult when you are used to solving any issues yourself ! It has certainly been challenging and takes my focus away from the day to day running of the business and buying, which is intense at the best of times.

Are you running any in-store events to help drive more physical sales?

We had some fantastic events in 2023 and are planning ahead for the rest of 2024 as we speak.

We held a spring event to kick off the season with a collaboration with Rachel Jackson Jewellery, who set up their amulet bar in store just in time for Mother’s Day. This was followed by a pop-up event with Woden sandals with some exciting activations going

on in-store. In 2023 we hosted some great founder meet and greets at the store with Dea Kudibal, Jeff Abrams from Rails and Becky Hosmer from Anna Beck. Our customers loved meeting the people behind the brands as it gives them a great insight into the collections.

How optimistic are you feeling about fashion retail this year?

It’s early days for 2024 but we have come out of a very challenging situation and I now feel equipped to deal with making the very best of this year despite the fact that challenges remain. The online attack and cost of living crisis have made me look closely and review all areas of my business and make changes where needed. Above all, I’m really passionate about the collections that will be coming into store this season and happy to have started the year in a cleaner stock position so I feel confident for a good year that will happen through sheer hard work!

What’s making you feel excited as a small business owner right now?

It is the ability to be nimble and adapt to change.

That is the most powerful tool that we have as small business owners.

MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 57

BUYER’S GUIDE Accessories Euroleathers Euroleathers are a supplier of premium shoe and leather care products and accessories.

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Olivia Darcy Luxury Womenswear, designed and made in Yorkshire E: info@oliviadarcy.co.uk W: www.oliviadarcy.co.uk/ Partners In Fashion (2019) LTD Brands: B Three, Erfo, Frank Walder, Kris Fashion, Manisa, Marina V, Relaxed by Toni, Tinta and Bariloche, Toni 35 Percy Street London W1T 2DQ Contact: Cathy Vandeputte T: 020 7636 4207 E: cathy.vandeputte@ partnersinfashion.co.uk W: www.partnersinfashion.com Pomodoro Contact: Noreen and Hemant E: info@pomodoroclothing.com W: pomodoroclothing.com T: 0208 961 4000 Sally Dawes Agency Brands: Estheme Cashmere, Sfizio, Rialto48, Maud & Sacha Merinos, Cristina Beautiful Life T: 0776 997 03 87 E: sally@sallydawes.com W: www.sallydawes.com Tate Fashions Brands: Lizabella, I.nco, Ella Boo, Bella Premium & Gracie B E: tatefashions@hotmail.com T: 07712398549 01132459064 Tempest Designs Brand names: Sarah Tempest Fashion Jewellery, Handbags & Accessories Contact: Michael Webster T: 01656 842102 E: enquiries @tempestdesigns.co.uk W: www.tempestdesigns.co.uk Tor Fashion Brands: Coco-Y-Club. Condici, Cream, Frank Lyman, Orientique, Tirelli, Ispirato T: 07855 481651 E: info@torfashion.co.uk W: www.torfashion.co.uk Instagram: torfashionltd

MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 59

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