2025 Bozeman Ice Festival Program

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WELCOME

Welcome to the twenty-ninth annual Bozeman Ice Festival! It’s a pleasure to see returning adventurers and first-time attendees alike as we gather in Bozeman to celebrate another incredible season of climbing, community, and connection. A heartfelt thank you goes out to our sponsors, participants, dedicated staff, volunteers, and local supporters - your enthusiasm and commitment are the heartbeat of this event and community.

Hyalite Canyon is more than just a world-class ice climbing venue. The canyon is one of the major sources of water for the Gallatin Valley and a yearround recreation area where people of all backgrounds and all interests come together to enjoy our shared public lands.

At Montana Mountaineering Association, we believe that mountains are the best teachers and the positive ripples that each of us creates resonate in our communities far beyond our time climbing. This year at BIF, we invite you to join us in working to make this community more than the sum of its parts. One of the most unique aspects of ice climbing is that the very nature of a climb is always changing, year to year, and even day to day. Bring that same curiosity, partnership, and spirit of exploration to all other aspects of your life and create positive ripples in all your communities.

This year’s festivities are packed with an exciting lineup of clinics in the breathtaking Hyalite Canyon, plus inspiring evenings in town featuring renowned guests and captivating films. Your energy and passion are what make this event extraordinary, and we’re thrilled to share every ascent and story with you. Let’s make this week one to remember - stay safe, climb strong, savor every moment, and here’s to an unforgettable Bozeman Ice Festival 2025!

INCLUSIVE INSTRUCTION AND OPEN ENVIRONMENTS:

The Bozeman Ice Fest strives for diversity across race, gender, age, religion, identity, and experiences to foster an inclusive climbing community. We believe that you should be able to bring your true self to outdoor endeavors and we strive to provide instruction through safe and open learning environments. Our staff, volunteers, and participants are held to a high standard of professionalism and we have a zero-tolerance policy for any form of discrimination, harassment, or retaliation.

Sarah Hueniken Innu Territory
La Malbaie, QC
Photo: John Price
PHOTO: COOPER SHUMAN

PUTTING THE PRISM ON ICE MEANS ACTION IS GO

LIKE ALL OF THE GEAR WE'RE KNOWN FOR, OUR PRISM PACK IS DESIGNED AROUND THE QUESTION, "WHAT DOES IT NEED TO DO?" FOCUSING ON THE MOST BASIC ANSWERS PUSHES BACK ON THE TENDENCY TO LET EXTRANEOUS FEATURES CREEP THEIR WAY INTO THE MIX, AND THE RESULTING PRODUCT IS ROOTED PURELY IN FUNCTION. AT THE BASE OF THE CLIMB, THAT'S ALL THAT MATTERS.

LIKE ALL OF THE GEAR WE'RE KNOWN FOR, OUR PRISM PACK IS DESIGNED AROUND THE QUESTION, "WHAT DOES IT NEED TO DO?" FOCUSING ON THE MOST BASIC ANSWERS PUSHES BACK ON THE TENDENCY TO LET EXTRANEOUS FEATURES CREEP THEIR WAY INTO THE MIX, AND THE RESULTING PRODUCT IS ROOTED PURELY IN FUNCTION. AT THE BASE OF THE CLIMB, THAT'S ALL THAT MATTERS.

ICE PACK

ICE PACK

PHOTO: COOPER SHUMAN

EVENING DETAILS

Come and get the Festival spirit rolling with the American Alpine Club’s evening gatherings at the Lockhorn Cider House! This casual night is always a good way to kick off the week—drop in and see some old friends, have some cider, and get inspired for the adventures to come this week.

THE GUY LACELLE HYALITE SERVICE AWARD

HONORING THE UNHERALDED ALTRUISM AND COMMUNITY SPIRIT OF HYALITE CANYON

The Heart of the Award: Altruism and Care

The Guy Lacelle Hyalite Service Award was created not to honor technical climbing skill, but to recognize the essential, often-unseen work that enriches the experience for the entire ice climbing community.

The award recognizes individuals who "give back, perhaps are unheralded or unknown, and do so from a truly altruistic approach and with care to the experience of those around you." This philosophy was the essence of Guy Lacelle. Recipients of this award embody the same humble spirit and dedication to others that Guy brought to the vertical world.

Guy Lacelle: The Spirit of Generous Competition

Guy Lacelle was one of the world's most accomplished ice climbers, yet he was equally famous for his humility, kindness, and integrity. He embodied a competitive spirit that was never vindictive or self-serving, but focused on the challenge, the camaraderie, and the simple joy of the climb.

This spirit was perfectly captured by the Ice Breaker Competition, an event created in 2007 at the Bozeman Ice Festival to celebrate and partake in the unique, all-day adventure of climbing Hyalite Canyon is known for. Guy,

who loved the event, won the inaugural competition with his partner, the late Ross Lynn.

Following the year of Guy's passing in an avalanche while participating in the 2009 Ice Breaker, the community sought a way to honor his legacy that focused on his selfless character. Repurposing the Ice Breaker's wooden prize axe—a nod to Guy's 'extreme recycler' approach— the award transformed a symbol of competition into an enduring tribute to service.

The Golden Carabiner: The Award's True Origin

Several years before the Guy Lacelle Hyalite Service Award was formally created, the spirit of altruistic recognition was sparked by a spontaneous gesture known as the "Golden Carabiner" presentation. In the early years of the festival, when the Hyalite Road was unplowed and access was challenging, reliable information was critical.

In 2007, climbing pioneer Kris Erickson interrupted the evening program to honor Jim Earl. Jim, a quiet legend and first ascensionist of routes like Winter Dance and

Rocket Boy was the unheralded creator and sole maintainer of MontanaIce.com, the indispensable online source for road and ice conditions. For this crucial, behind-the-scenes community service, Jim was presented with an iconic gold-plated Petzl carabiner.

The following year, in 2008, the Festival Director Mike Cooperstein continued the tradition, presenting a Golden Carabiner to Joe Josephson in recognition of his extensive work writing the Winter Dance guidebook, organizing the festival, and his advocacy for keeping the Hyalite Road accessible in winter.

When the community needed a way to formalize a tribute to Guy's character in 2010, this tradition of recognizing unseen, selfless contribution became the natural and powerful inspiration for the Guy Lacelle Hyalite Service Award.

The Enduring Legacy: The Service Axe

The physical award is a repurposed, historic wooden Grivel Monte Bianco ice axe—a classic replica. Following Guy's passing, the Festival Director repurposed the wooden prize axes from the Ice Breaker event to serve as permanent and rotating symbols of his legacy.

The history of the award is carried by two axes:

The Memorial Axe: The Men's Grivel axe, engraved with Guy Lacelle and Ross Lynn as the 2007 Ice Breaker winners, was lovingly mounted and placed near the site of Guy’s accident in Hyalite Canyon—a quiet, powerful memorial for those who discover it.

The Service Axe: The Women's Grivel axe was repurposed as the Guy Lacelle Hyalite Service Award. This rotating trophy gets a new recipient’s name engraved each year, starting with the original "Golden Carabiner" honoree, Jim Earl.

The recipient keeps the Service Axe for the year and it is hoped they go climbing with it! It has confirmed ascents of Blue and Green Gully with Joe Josephson.

Honoring the Unseen Service: The Recipients

The tradition of recognizing unheralded service began with the presentation of the "Golden Carabiner" and evolved into the formal award. The following individuals have been recognized for their altruistic commitment to the Hyalite climbing community:

Year Recipient

2007 Jim Earl

2008 Joe Josephson

2009 (No Award)

2010 Greg Caracciolo

2011 Joel Lee

2012 Jack Roberts

2013 Pat Callis

2014 Kris Erickson

2015 Chris Lohss

2016 Doug Chabot

2017 Dougal McCarty

2018 Paige Leddy

2019 Rachel Johnston

2020 Dana Odenbeck

2021 (No Award)

2022

Rebecca and Erin Taylor

2023 Adam Knoff

2024 Hilary Eisen

BROADCAST: LADIES NIGHT AT UPHILL PURSUITS + BROAD BETA + BRONCO WILD FUND

6:00 P.M. | UPHILL PURSUITS

Join us for dinner, drinks, a raffle, and an evening of inspirational mountain stories from speakers Babsi Vigl, Sunny Stroeer, and Angela Vanwiemeersch.

For women and gender queer folks only. Free admission! Pizza and beer from Bridger Brewing. Sponsored by Broad Beta and the Bronco Wild Fund, with support from Mountain Equipment and Highline Partners

Broad Beta: Empowering women and gender queer folks to embrace wild ideas, wild experiences and the preservation of wildness.

KATIE MCKINSTRY STYLOS

PARALLEL WORLD

BETWEEN POWER AND GRACE

A journey into the heart of one of the hardest drytooling routes on earth. Join Katie on her quest to become the first woman to climb Parallel World

PARALLEL WORLD

WITH KATIE MCKINSTRY STYLOS BRIDGERS

WITH DENE BRANDT AND TY GUARINO EL CHALTÉN SEASON WRAP-UP

WITH TYLER KAROW

$15 | 7:30 P.M. EMERSON

PARALLEL WORLD: In the world of climbing, pushing limits is part of the game. But every so often, an athlete comes along who redefines what’s possible. On March 18th, 2025, Katie made history, becoming the first woman to ever climb the route Parallel World and the first woman to conquer the grade of D15+/D16. It was a triumph over physical and mental endurance—30 sessions on the route, two overseas trips, and over a year of unwavering dedication.

Whatever your backcountry goals might be—ski, climb, ride or run— Uphill Pursuits is ready to provide all the gear and expertise you need to explore the great backyard we all share—and beyond.

BRIDGERS: Two Bozeman-based ski patrollers reflect on the rapid changes facing their home and the sport they love. With 50 seasons under his belt, Dene Brandt regards the future with an optimism that infects his younger co-worker.

EL CHALTÉN SEASON WRAP-UP: A reflection on a short but memorable 2024/25 Patagonia season — including an ascent of Cerro Torre via the Southeast Ridge, a couple other hard-earned summits, and a few more failed attempts along the way.

BEAR CANYON SINGERS & DANCERS

ANNA WITH ANNA PFAFF SHOOTING THE MOON

ETHAN BERMAN & MAARTEN VAN HAEREN PUSH THE LINES WITH MATT SEGAL & QUENTIN ROBERTS

$15 | 7:30 P.M.

EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER

ANNA is an intimate, unflinching portrait of The North Face mountaineer Anna Pfaff as she faces the aftermath of a life-altering frostbite injury in Alaska. Anna follows Pfaff’s challenging physical recovery and the profound evolution of her character — a painful yet powerful journey toward acceptance and the transformation of both body and spirit. It’s a compelling exploration of recovery, reinvention and the limitless potential of human-powered movement.

BEAR CANYON SINGERS & DANCERS: We are deeply honored to welcome the Bear Canyon Singers & Dancers back to the Bozeman Ice Festival this year. Their presence on Friday night has become one of the most meaningful moments of the entire week, a powerful reminder of the cultural history, stewardship, and community that shape this land we gather on.

The Ice Fest began inviting the Bear Canyon Singers as a way to show respect and honor to the Indigenous peoples connected to these mountains and valleys. Their songs and dances open the evening with grounding, celebration, and a sense of shared purpose.

For many guests who come to the festival for climbing, instruction, and community, the Bear Canyon Singers are the highlight of their experience. Their performance marks the start of winter not just with music, but with gratitude, reflection, and connection.

SHOOTING THE MOON: The Southeast "Hidden" Pillar of Ultar Sar (7,388m) is a coveted alpine route in the Pakistani Karakoram that has been attempted by many strong climbers over the last few decades. Sporting 3,100m of vertical relief, the route consists of relentless calf-burning ice, and a striking rock pillar cutting a line through the sky straight to the summit. Over eight days in June 2025, Ethan Berman, Sebastian Pelletti, and Maarten van Haeren finally put the pieces together to establish the first ascent of the line, which they named Shooting the Moon. Berman and van Haeren will walk us through the experience of establishing a technical route in alpine-style at high altitude, including their long and fruitful partnership, and a birthday gone wrong during their first attempt in 2024. It's also likely they won't be able to resist sharing some stoke from winter routes they have established at home in the Canadian Rockies.

PUSH THE LINES: Jesse Huey tricks his friends Matt Segal and Quentin Roberts into a mixed climbing free ascent of the Diamond on Colorado's Longs Peak in winter. Matt and Quentin will be on hand to share their film with our Friday evening audience.

Montana’s Trophy Cider

13

GIRL CLIMBER

WITH EMILY HARRINGTON + Q&A GUY LACELLE SERVICE AWARD PRESENTATION

$15 | 7:30 P.M.

EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER

Professional climber Emily Harrington has summited Everest, 8000-meter peaks, and dominated the competition circuit but, her greatest challenge extends beyond the physical. To cement her legacy in the male dominated world of elite rock climbing, she sets her sights on a career-defining 24-hour ascent of Yosemite’s El Capitan.

Caught between the pursuit of personal ambition and the ticking biological clock of life, a near-fatal fall forces Emily to reckon with what she’s willing to risk. Equal parts gripping survival story and intimate portrait, Girl Climber isn’t just about breaking records, it’s about breaking barriers. Amongst Yosemite’s legendary boy’s club, Emily isn’t proving she is the best *Girl Climber-she's proving she is one of the best. Period.

Join us for dinner and an evening with climber Sam Hennessey, where he’ll be sharing Barronette: A Mountain Profile. It’s stories and photos from climbs on the East Face of Barronette Mountain, including logistics and descriptions of many routes not in any guidebook.

Sam grew up in Port Angeles, WA, and had his first alpine misadventures in the Olympic Mountains. He moved to Bozeman, MT after college, where he currently works as a mountain guide and has a very nice storage unit.

ON-ICE CLINICS

For twenty-nine years, Hyalite Canyon on-ice clinics have been the heart and soul of the Bozeman Ice Festival.

Our clinics take place in beautiful Hyalite Canyon just a few miles from downtown Bozeman. One of the premier locations in America, Hyalite provides a unique wilderness experience in the heart of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. Our clinics are the perfect opportunity to safely gain experience and learn from the best in the business.

HYALITE ADVANCED BASE CAMP

After a big day of climbing in Hyalite be sure to swing by the Black Diamond Advanced Base Camp, located in the Chisolm parking area. There will be a shuttle provided from Chisolm to the Grotto Falls trailhead. Hang out, swap stories, talk gear, and celebrate another great day in the mountains.

PHOTO: COOPER SHUMAN
PHOTO: LOUIS AREVALO

CLINICS IN HYALITE

Our full day clinics include demos of the best technical gear on the planet including boots, crampons, axes, harnesses, helmets and clothing, 5+ hours of on-ice instruction by world-class climbers, and raffle tickets for the industry’s best gear giveaways.

CLINIC LOCATIONS

The Bozeman Ice Festival holds full day clinics in Hyalite Canyon at the following areas:

Genesis (G1 Wall) Mummy II & Scepter

Amphitheater Unnamed Wall

Hyalite Canyon has another 200+ ice and mixed routes within two miles of the parking lot for the climbing community to explore and enjoy all that Hyalite provides.

All clinics meet at and depart from the Grotto Falls Trailhead. All participants should plan on parking at the Chisolm Parking lot. Shuttles will be provided from the Black Diamond Equipment Advanced Base Camp at the Chisolm Parking Lot to Grotto Falls. Clinics generally run from 8:00am to 3:30pm.

Clinics are sold out—so what can I do?

Every year there are a handful of no-shows or last second cancellations. Even if you are on a waiting list, please check in with us at the Emerson Ballroom the night before you want to participate in Hyalite Canyon. Local guide service Montana Alpine Guides also runs courses during the ice fest and all winter. Contact them at www.mtalpine.com

SWITCH PICKS that are suitable for different terrain

SWITCH HEAD ACCESSORIES to optimize performance

SWITCH GRIP RESTS to cater to your preferred style THESE ARE THE PETZL DIFFERENCES WORTH JUSTIFYING.

© 2024 PETZL DISTRIBUTION

Swing some tools, make friends, try the latest and greatest gear, learn something new, and even change your life.

RETURNING DEMO GEAR

Any demo gear you’ve checked out needs to be returned in the Hyalite parking area as soon as you are done climbing for the day.

This is the best way for us to ensure the next group has access to the same great gear as you. Warm up in the Black Diamond Advanced Base camp and be sure to bring extra boots and warm jackets once you return your demo gear.

We understand there are unexpected challenges or occassionally absent minds. But if gear is not returned to the Emerson Ballroom by 6:00pm every night, you will be charged a $50 late fee.

Fail to return the gear by 7:00am the morning following your clinic and you will be charged the full retail price for the gear on your Rental Agreement Form.

PHOTO: LOUIS AREVALO PHOTO:

2025 SILENT AUCTION

READY TO BID OR DONATE?

Click the button above or scan the QR code. Once on the auction site, you can see all the items up for bidding, thanks to our sponsors. You can bid there directly on the site, or you can send a text to (606) 302-2512 with the item’s three letter code and bid amount—for example, “AAG50”. Either way, you’ll receive instant outbid notifications and will be automatically notified if you have won any items at the end of the auction. You can also add a donation on the site and help keep Hyalite plowed— thank you in advance for your contributions! www.bozemanicefest.com/auction

ON ICE INFO

How do I get to my clinics in Hyalite Canyon?

Parking is very limited in Hyalite Canyon. We strongly encourage you to carpool from Bozeman or the Park and Ride lot just 1.5 miles from the end of the road.

Carpool information and sign ups can be found in the Emerson Ballroom each night.

Driving Directions

From Main Street, go south on Highland Boulevard (near the Western Heritage Inn) or Willson Ave (one block from the Emerson) to Kagy Boulevard. Turn right (west) on Kagy and continue to 19th Street and turn left (south). Continue south on 19th to the edge of the mountains and the Hyalite Canyon Road (left) a half mile past an obvious 90-degree turn.

Follow the Hyalite Canyon Road for approximately 12 miles going around the reservoir to the Chisolm Parking Lot.

What time do I leave in the morning?

The on-ice classes gather in Hyalite at 8:30am every day. We recommend you leave downtown Bozeman no later than 7:15 a.m. with 7:00 a.m. preferred. The road can be treacherous, and it is advised you take your time getting there. Accidents due to late folks rushing are not uncommon. The road is usually plowed (but not sanded due to watershed concerns) so a 2-wheel drive vehicle may be passable, but not advised. If unsure of the driving or conditions, please allow extra time.

Whether you are looking for a piece of western artwork, need a Montana souvenir, or want to grab a bite to eat, you will discover an array of casual and fine dining restaurants, art galleries, unique retail shops, sporting goods for all your outdoor adventures and much more!

Map Excerpt from Friends of Hyalite Winter Recreation Map, published in Oct 2016

Nordic Ski Trail

Groomed Intermittently Established groomed nordic ski trails. These are marked with blue ski trail markers or signs. Grooming may be infrequent.

Fat Bikes NOT allowed.

Trail Rating: Easy Moderate

Ice Climber Route

No signs or indicators. May move from year to year and may come and go throughout the season. Ice Festival locations will be marked with a BIF Banner.

Designated Nordic Ski Route (Ungroomed) These are roads or hiking trails that are formally designated ski routes by the US Forest Service. They are marked with blue ski trail markers or signs. Fat Bikes and motorized travel is not allowed.

Trail Rating: Easy Moderate

Facilities

Parking

Restrooms (open in winter)

Forest Service Cabin (rental) Campground (closed in winter)

Gate

Recreation Areas

Back Country Ski Area

Nordic Skiing - groomed Ice Climbing Area

AVALANCHE SAFETY

Approaches to some ice climbs in Hyalite require climbers to cross through or underneath avalanche paths. It is important to be aware of current snowpack conditions and consequences of being caught in an avalanche. Even small slides are deadly in this terrain, and have injured and killed climbers before.

To get the most up-to-date snowpack info:

• Get the update on latest conditions at Thursday evening’s events at the Emerson

• Visit www.mtavalanche.com for daily snowpack updates

RAGE Ice Tools

Discover More! Durable and precise ice tool for demanding mixed and ice routes. Robust pick design optimized for extreme torquing and precision hooking, while pick profile efficiently cuts through ice. Weights and handle accessories included.

Celebrating Five Years of Impact

Bronco Wild Fund™ has supported outdoor access, preservation, and stewardship projects in 50 states + D.C. since 2020.

A portion of the profits of every Ford Bronco® SUV sold goes to support the outdoors.

Read about our impact

Bronco Wild Fund is proud to support the BROADcast! night reception at the Bozeman Ice Festival again in 2025.

PHANTOM TECHHD ALPINE ATTITUDE.

The new PHANTOM TECH HD maximizes your ability to accomplish your high-end, high-output ice and mixed climbing objectives, allowing you to move quickly and efficiently over technical terrain. The latest version improves fit, protection and warmth while reducing eco-impact.

Athlete: Fabio Keck. Photographer Max Draeger.

Beyond ordinary.

Ordinary days aren’t measured in miles. They aren’t improvised at altitude. They don’t begin at first light, lead you above the clouds, and end with dwindling sunlight as you take refuge in the shadows of summits. But then, ordinary days never make great stories.

SHARE THE STOKE

Catch a great moment in the canyon? Something too good to believe at the Emerson? Share it with the Bozeman Ice Festival community with the hashtags #bozemanicefest and #bif29.

Check out our Instagram feed: @bozemanicefest

ENGINEERED FOR THE OUTDOORS

SEEK WILDER PATHS

STAFF

Phil Bridgers

Spencer Shuman

Dana Odenbeck

Rachel Johnston

Seth Neilson

Sid Atencio

Joe Wagner

Adam Knoff

Kym Van Der Weyde

Katie McKinstry Stylos

Cooper Shuman

HYALITE GUIDES

FESTIVAL DIRECTOR

HYALITE + SAFETY COORDINATOR

EVENT COORDINATOR

REGISTRATION COORDINATOR

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

AUCTION COORDINATOR

WEB GURU LEAD GUIDE

VOLUNTEER COORDINATOR

SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR

PHOTOGRAPHER

Adam Knoff, Lindsay Fixmer, Gavin Porter, Taylor Lais, Lindsay Hamm, Tagg Cole, ,Tyler Sweeney, Lauren Smith, Thomas Ryan, Joe Wagner, Jackson Negri, Andrew Lamb, Cheyenne Chaffee, Jack Taylor, Bailey Servais, Matt Zia, Zach Lentsch

GUIDES EMERITUS

Clark Alexis, Mike Cooperstein, Rich Searle

Joel Lee, Barrel Mountaineering, Greg Caracciolo, Northern Lights Trading Co. BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL FOUNDERS

MT MTNEERING ASSOC. BOARD OF DIRECTORS

Rebecca Taylor, Kevin Brumbach, Chad Dokken, Miguel Strunk

SPECIAL THANKS

GCSAR, Conrad Anker, Richard Bailey, Kathryn Baker, Kat Barker, Matthew Beehler, Brent Bishop, City of Bozeman, Jill Brewster, Phillip Carberry, Doug Chabot, Rhett Clevenger, Karsten Delap, Tom Denno, Susan Denson-Guy, Phillip Dobson, Christine Eckert, Eddie Espinosa, Jim Ewing, Christian Folk, Dr. Stephen Halvorson, Aaron Hjelt, Ryan Holm, Jeff Johnston, Nate Kenney, Phil King, Alex Kutches, Cameron Larson, Matt Lewis, Felicia Luebeck, Lindsay Marie, Jessica Markowitz, Christian McConnell, Albert McDonald, Lisa McGrory, Johnathan Morrissey, Nathan Norby, Liz O’Brien, Patrick Odenbeck, Jess Powell, Angelika Rainer, Barry Blanchard, Pat Callis, Andres Marin, Austin Schmitz, Michael Spears, Renee Stevens, Leslie Sunseri, Lee Trebotich, Dirk Tyler, Wendi Urie, Lisa Verwys, Hayden Wilson, and so many more. Thank you.

PRESENTING SPONSOR

SUPPORTING SPONSORS

COMMUNITY SPONSORS

PHOTO: BLAIR SPEED

Not Just for Rock Climbing.

“Every training day, every project, every send — Rhino Skin Solutions has been a constant part of my success. From sweaty hands in gloves to keeping calluses dialed in for performance, Rhino keeps my skin strong and ready for whatever the day brings.”

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