2023 Bozeman Ice Fest Program

2023

PRE SEN TED BY

Black Diamond Athlete Aaron Mulkey

Jeremiah Watt

COMMITTED. There’s only one way to reach the top. You try and try again. There’s always failure. You learn from your past mistakes. Train some more.

Gain experience. Then you try harder. Fail and fall again. You take a beating. Get hurt. And keep coming back. But in the end, when you pull past the point of no return, steady your breath, and stare down what’s between you and success, you know what you have to do.

Commit. We know what it takes. At Black Diamond, we’re committed to catching the falls along the way.

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WELCOME

W

elcome to the twenty-seventh annual Bozeman Ice Festival! We extend a warm welcome to both familiar faces and new friends joining us in Bozeman for a week filled with celebration, camaraderie, and, naturally, some epic climbing. A sincere thank you goes out to our sponsors, participants, staff, volunteers, and community members whose unwavering support is the bedrock of this event.

As we step into this season’s schedule of events and clinics, your presence is everything.

We’re grateful for your continued support and stoke—it makes all the difference. We’re looking forward to a stellar lineup of clinics in Hyalite Canyon, and memorable evenings in town featuring special guests sharing their tales and films. From summit to valley, this promises to be an exceptional week, and we’re eager to relish each moment with you. Stay safe, climb with gusto, revel in the experience—and here’s to an unforgettable Bozeman Ice Festival 2023!

INCLUSIVE INSTRUCTION AND OPEN ENVIRONMENTS: The Bozeman Ice Fest strives for diversity across race, gender, age, religion, identity, and experiences to create an inclusive climbing community. We believe that you should be able to bring your true self to outdoor endeavors and we strive to provide instruction through safe and open learning environments. Our staff, volunteers, and participants are held to a high standard of professionalism and we have a zero-tolerance policy for any form of discrimination, harassment, or retaliation.

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2023 EVENING SCHEDULE

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AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB COMMUNITY NIGHT FREE | 6:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB COMMUNITY NIGHT FREE | 6:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE

LADIES NIGHT: BROADCAST!

PRESENTED BY BROAD BETA + BRONCO WILD FUND

FREE | 6:30 P.M. | UPHILL PURSUITS

JIRISHANCA + FUTURE OF ALPINISM PANEL $15 | 7:30 P.M. EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER

FINDING BALANCE W/ AARON MULKEY + HALL OF FAME

+ BEAR CANYON SINGERS + DANCERS + HALL OF FAME W/YANNICK GLATTHARD $15 | 7:30 P.M. EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER

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TIM EMMETT: 25 YEARS OF CLIMBING + FULL CIRCLE EVEREST PANEL + JANNU ASCENT FILM + Q&A $15 | 7:30 P.M. EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER

LOCAL LEGENDS DINNER + WRAP PARTY $30 | 6:00 P.M. | EMERSON BALLROOM

BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

Life’s full of adventure.

WHERE ARE YOU HEADING?

Men’s

Women’s

ALPINE EXPERT II GTX | Mountaineering Our Alpine Expert II GTX is our most versatile insulated boot, balancing climbing performance with hiking comfort.

View men’s & women’s models at www.lowaboots.com

#ForTheNextStep #LowaBoots GORE-TEX, GTX, GORE, and GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY and design are registered trademarks of W.L. Gore & Associates Inc. PrimaLoft® is a registered trademark of PrimaLoft, Inc. VIBRAM®, the Octagon Logo, and the Yellow Octagon Logo and the color Canary Yellow are registered trademarks of Vibram S.p.A. Climber: Paul Gagner, Chamonix. ©Sunny Stroeer © 2023 LOWA Boots LLC

BOZEMAN, MT

HANDCRAFTED PIZZA, SALADS, BEER, WINE, HOMEADE ICE CREAM & MORE! Located in the Emerson Cultural Center Open 11am-9pm Tuesday-Sunday sidewallpizzabozeman.com 406-570-0730

PHOTO: TERESA DALSAGER

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MONTANA MADE

ADVENTURE READY

SINCE 2013

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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

YOUR HOST: LIAM LONSDALE

Liam Lonsdale is a professional presenter and photographer from the northern part of England. You may be most familiar with him as the effervescent voice of the Ice Climbing World Cup broadcasts since 2015, as well as multiple bouldering and lead competitions across the world. Liam is a passionate, globe-trotting climber and runner with many years of experience in both industries.

He is particularly fond of the world of mountain festivals, and has been to at least one every year since 2007.

We’re excited to have him back for our 27th festival!

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PHOTO: KARISSA FRYE

PROUD SPONSOR OF THE

BOZEMAN ICE FEST

BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023 Sterlingrope.com

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EVENING DETAILS

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AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB COMMUNITY NIGHT FREE | 6:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB COMMUNITY NIGHT FREE | 6:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE

Come and get the Festival spirit rolling with the American Alpine Club’s evening gatherings at the Lockhorn Cider House! This casual night is always a good way to kick off the week—drop in and see some old friends, have some cider, and get inspired for the adventures to come this week.

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BROADCAST: LADIES NIGHT AT UPHILL PURSUITS

+ BROAD BETA + BRONCO WILD FUND 6:00 P.M. | UPHILL PURSUITS

Join us for a night of inspiring short stories of women’s climbing adventures, from the ordinary to the heroic, comic to tragic, all with heartfelt honest challenges.

Presenters will be Priti Wright, Christina Lusti, Mo Beck, and Darcy Chenowith.

For women and gender queer folks. Free admission!

We’ll have a raffle, along with beer and pizza from LaFoley Kitchen.

Broad Beta: Empowering women and gender queer folks to embrace wild ideas, wild experiences and the preservation of wildness.

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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

Whatever your backcountry goals might be—ski, climb, ride or run— Uphill Pursuits is ready to provide all the gear and expertise you need to explore the great backyard we all share—and beyond.

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07

JIRISHANCA + FUTURE OF ALPINISM PANEL $15 | 7:30 P.M. EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER

Josh Wharton is the most accomplished alpinist you’ve never heard of. But while he’s been quietly crushing ambitious objectives to little or no fanfare, fatherhood and warming weather have begun to reshape the world he knew. When Wharton and his climbing partner Vince Anderson attempt to take the 2003 Italian Route to the summit of Jirishanca in Peru, they’re forced to account for risk as never before.

THE BOLD FUTURE OF ALPINISM:

A panel discussion on the current state and future of alpine endeavors with Jack Tackle, Anne Gilbert Chase, Whit Magro, Molly Kawahata, Matt Cornell, and Andres Marin.

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FINDING BALANCE W/ AARON MULKEY + HALL OF FAME

+ BEAR CANYON SINGERS + DANCERS $15 | 7:30 P.M. EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER

In this current age of carefully curated Instagram reels (#vanlife) and the ubiquitous inspiration to “quit my job and selling everything to chase the dream,” it’s rare for the spotlight to land on someone who, while incredibly talented, balances their passion with the seemingly mundane, day-to-day responsibilities that we can all relate to.

Aaron Mulkey h1as figured it out.

We’re very excited to bring back Ice Fest favorites, the Bear Canyon Singers and Dancers!

“Hall of Fame“ – high above Kandersteg in the Swiss Alps, is widely seen as probably the most difficult mixed-route in the world. Ice climbing pioneer Ron Koller discovered and developed the route some 8 years ago.

Earlier this month, young Swiss mountain guide and professional alpinist Yannick Glatthard succeeded in making a first ever free ascent of “Hall of Fame”.

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TIM EMMETT: 25 YEARS OF CLIMBING + FULL CIRCLE EVEREST PANEL + JANNU ASCENT FILM + Q&A $15 | 7:30 P.M. EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER

Jannu North Face (7710M): Over the last three years Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau have spent the fall trying to climb the north face of Jannu in alpine style. In October the stars aligned and over 7 days they completed the first alpine style ascent of the feature by their new route, ‘Round Trip Ticket’ (M7, AI5+, 3000 meters).

Tim Emmett is one of the world’s most well-rounded climbers—his pursuits have proven that. in February 2016 he climbed “Interstellar Spice,” the first Ice Climb in the world graded WI 12 at Helmcken Falls, Canada.

He has also established some of the hardest rock climbs in Cuba, Mongolia, and Wales; and achieved podium position four times at the World Ice Climbing Championships. Most recently, he completed the first ascent of “Mission to Mars” (WI 13) at Helmcken Falls— estimated to be the world’s hardest ice climb. He’ll share his story and perspectives on the sport after 25 years of climbing—join us at the Emerson!

PANEL: Full Circle Everest Join us in welcoming Phil Henderson, Eddie Taylor, Manoah Ainuu, and Adina Scott from the Full Circle Everest Expedition as they share details of their experience before, during, and after the 2022 expedition.

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LOCAL LEGENDS DINNER + WRAP PARTY $30 | 6:00 P.M. | EMERSON BALLROOM

Join us for an evening with Molly Kawahata, former climate advisor to the Obama White House, mental health advocate, and the subject at the heart of the Patagonia film, “The Scale of Hope.” We kick off the night with a screening of a condensed version of the film, followed by a talk where Molly will delve into her personal journey with climate, climbing, mental health -- and the transformative power of hope in our lives.

Photo Credit: Andrew Burr, Patagonia.

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125 W Main St

Open for lunch & dinner 7 days a week Sunday-Thursday 11am – 9pm Friday and Saturday 11am – 10pm

backcountryburgerbar.com

406.577.2454

Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday, dinner on the weekends!

Monday–Friday 11am - 9:30pm Saturday–Sunday 4pm - 9:30pm

406.404.1270 pizzacampania.net 1285 N Rouse Ave

ON-ICE CLINICS For twenty-seven years, Hyalite Canyon on-ice clinics have been the heart and soul of the Bozeman Ice Festival.

PHOTO: BLAIR SPEED

Our clinics take place in beautiful Hyalite Canyon just a few miles from downtown Bozeman. One of the premier locations in America, Hyalite provides a unique wilderness experience in the heart of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. Our clinics are the perfect opportunity to safely gain experience and learn from the best in the business.

HYALITE ADVANCED BASE CAMP

PHOTO: LOUIS AREVALO

After a big day of climbing in Hyalite be sure to swing by the Black Diamond Advanced Base Camp, located in the Chisolm parking area.

There will be a shuttle provided from Chisolm to the Grotto Falls trailhead.

Hang out, swap stories, talk gear, and celebrate another great day in the mountains.

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CLINICS IN HYALITE Our full day clinics include demos of the best technical gear on the planet including boots, crampons, axes, harnesses, helmets and clothing, 5+ hours of on-ice instruction by world-class climbers, and raffle tickets for the industry’s best gear giveaways.

PHOTO: LOUIS AREVALO

CLINIC LOCATIONS The Bozeman Ice Festival holds full day clinics in Hyalite Canyon at the following areas: Genesis (G1 Wall)

Amphitheater

Mummy II & Scepter

Unnamed Wall

Hyalite Canyon has another 200+ ice and mixed routes within two miles of the parking lot for the climbing community to explore and enjoy all that Hyalite provides.

All clinics meet at and depart from the Grotto Falls Trailhead.

All participants should plan on parking at the Chisolm Parking lot. Shuttles will be provided from the Black Diamond Equipment Advanced Base Camp at the Chisolm Parking Lot to Grotto Falls. Clinics generally run from 8:00am to 3:30pm.

Clinics are sold out—so what can I do?

Every year there are a handful of no-shows or last second cancellations. Even if you are on a waiting list, please check in with us at the Emerson Ballroom the night before you want to participate in Hyalite Canyon. Local guide service Montana Alpine Guides also runs courses during the ice fest and all winter. Contact them at www.mtalpine.com.

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PHOTO: LOUIS AREVALO

Swing some tools, make friends, try the latest and greatest gear, learn something new, and even change your life.

RETURNING DEMO GEAR Any demo gear you’ve checked out needs to be returned in the Hyalite parking area as soon as you are done climbing for the day.

This is the best way for us to ensure the next group has access to the same great gear as you. Warm up in the Black Diamond Advanced Base camp and be sure to bring extra boots and warm jackets once you return your demo gear.

We understand there are unexpected challenges or occassionally absent minds. But if gear is not returned to the Emerson Ballroom by 6:00pm every night, you will be charged a $50 late fee.

Fail to return the gear by 7:00am the morning following your clinic and you will be charged the full retail price for the gear on your Rental Agreement Form.

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PHOTO: LOUIS AREVALO

BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

SILENT AUCTION

This year’s silent auction is happening online! Scan the QR code on this page to visit the auction site where you can bid either via text or on the website. This format will make it easy for people to know when they’ve been outbid or “buy it now” if the price is right! You can also donate through the site, which helps keep the festival running smooth, as well as the GNF Avalanche Center and Friends of Hyalite.

INSTRUCTIONS First, visit the site by scanning the QR code on this page.

You’ll be taken to the auction site, where you can see all the items up for bidding, thanks to our kind sponsors.

You can bid there directly on the site, or you can send a text (606) 302-2512 with the it with the item’s three letter code and bid amount, for example “AAG50”. Either way, you’ll receive instant outbid notifications and will be automatically notified if you have won any items at the end of the auction. You can also add a donation on the site and help keep Hyalite plowed—thank you in advance for your kind contributions! Find one of the BIF staff if you have any quextions, and good luck! https://www.accelevents.com/e/2023-bozeman-ice-festival

SCAN THE CODE 2 REVIEW THE AUCTION 3 PLACE YOUR BID 4 WIN! (AND DONATE!)

1

CLICK TO BID

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ON ICE INFO How do I get to my clinics in Hyalite Canyon?

Parking is very limited in Hyalite Canyon.

We strongly encourage you to carpool from Bozeman or the Park and Ride lot just 1.5 miles from the end of the road.

Carpool information and sign ups can be found in the Emerson Ballroom each night.

Driving Directions From Main Street, go south on Highland Boulevard (near the Western Heritage Inn) or Willson Ave (one block from the Emerson) to Kagy Boulevard. Turn right (west) on Kagy and continue to 19th Street and turn left (south).

Continue south on 19th to the edge of the mountains and the Hyalite Canyon Road (left) a half mile past an obvious 90-degree turn.

Follow the Hyalite Canyon Road for approximately 12 miles going around the reservoir to the Chisolm Parking Lot.

What time do I leave in the morning?

The on-ice classes gather in Hyalite at 8:30am every day.

We recommend you leave downtown Bozeman no later than 7:15 a.m. with 7:00 a.m. preferred. The road can be treacherous, and it is advised you take your time getting there.

Accidents due to late folks rushing are not uncommon.

The road is usually plowed (but not sanded due to watershed concerns) so a 2-wheel drive vehicle may be passable, but not advised. If unsure of the driving or conditions, please allow extra time.

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Whether you are looking for a piece of western artwork, need a Montana souvenir, or want to grab a bite to eat, you will discover an array of casual and fine dining restaurants, art galleries, unique retail shops, sporting goods for all your outdoor adventures and much more!

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santeroapparel.com @santero_apparel

We are excited to be a part of the Bozeman Ice Festival for the second year! Visit us at our booth to learn about our new products, which embody our core values: sustainability, performance, and technology, along with the vibrant Mexican colors and shapes. Take advantage of our special prices, exclusively available for festival attendees.

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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

Made to Keep You Moving VR SUMMIT JACKET Warm, protective, and offering unbeatable moisture management, this is the ultimate all-day active insulation for big mountain days.

WWW . R A B . E Q U I P M E N T BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

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Will Gadd Nionwentsïo of the Huron-Wendat Quebéc, Canada.

BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

arcteryx.com 32

Map Excerpt from Friends of Hyalite Winter Recreation Map, published in 33 2016 Oct

BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

Nordic Ski Trail Groomed Intermittently Established groomed nordic ski trails. These are marked with blue ski trail markers or signs. Grooming may be infrequent.

Fat Bikes NOT allowed.

Trail Rating:

Easy

Moderate

Ice Climber Route No signs or indicators. May move from year to year and may come and go throughout the season. Ice Festival locations will be marked with a BIF Banner.

Designated Nordic Ski Route (Ungroomed) These are roads or hiking trails that are formally designated ski routes by the US Forest Service. They are marked with blue ski trail markers or signs. Fat Bikes and motorized travel is not allowed.

Trail Rating:

Easy

Moderate

Facilities Parking Restrooms (open in winter) Forest Service Cabin (rental) Campground (closed in winter) Gate Recreation Areas Back Country Ski Area Nordic Skiing - groomed Ice Climbing Area

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AVALANCHE SAFETY

Approaches to some ice climbs in Hyalite require climbers to cross through or underneath avalanche paths. It is important to be aware of current snowpack conditions and consequences of being caught in an avalanche.

Even small slides are deadly in this terrain, and have injured and killed climbers before.

To get the most up-to-date snowpack info: • Attend Doug Chabot’s current conditions talk on Thursday evening • Visit www.mtavalanche.com for daily snowpack updates 35

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+ HYPERLITEMOUNTAINGEAR.COM

PUTTING THE PRISM ON ICE MEANS ACTION IS GO

LIKE ALL OF THE GEAR WE'RE KNOWN FOR, OUR PRISM PACK IS DESIGNED AROUND THE QUESTION, "WHAT DOES IT NEED TO DO?" FOCUSING ON THE MOST BASIC ANSWERS PUSHES BACK ON THE TENDENCY TO LET EXTRANEOUS FEATURES CREEP THEIR WAY INTO THE MIX, AND THE RESULTING

ICE PACK

PRODUCT IS ROOTED PURELY IN FUNCTION. AT THE BASE OF THE CLIMB, THAT'S ALL THAT MATTERS.

BUILT WITH DYNEEMA®

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Athlete: Fabio Keck. Photographer Max Draeger.

PHANTOM TECHHD

ALPINE ATTITUDE. The new PHANTOM TECH HD maximizes your ability to accomplish your high-end, high-output ice and mixed climbing objectives, allowing you to move quickly and efficiently over technical terrain. The latest version improves fit, protection and warmth while reducing eco-impact.

SCARPA.COM

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SHARE THE STOKE

Catch a great moment in the canyon?

Something too good to believe at the Emerson? Share it with the Bozeman Ice Festival community with the hashtags #bozemanicefest and #bif27.

Check out our Instagram feed: @bozemanicefest

The premier guide service for ice climbing in Montana and Wyoming

HYALITE | CODY | COOKE CITY

Also offering climbing courses, backcountry skiing, avalanche education and mountaineering.

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MTALPINE.COM | 406-586-8430 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

Connecting people to the outdoors, responsibly.

Bronco Wild Fund strives to increase access

for all to the great outdoors. Building inclusion

by elevating voices and sharing stories benefits the whole outdoor community through

accessibility, mentorship and connection.

We’re proud to sponsor the annual Broadcast Women’s Night at the Bozeman Ice Festival again this year.

BroncoWildFund.com @FordBronco #BroncoWildFund BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

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SINCE 1993

SEEK WILDER PATHS 46

BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

ONLY

200 TICKETS SOLD

$20 EACH

THE

STOKE PACKAGE

Outfit yourself for a lifetime of ice climbing from Black Diamond. Featuring everything you need to be an ice climber— from clothing to gear!

PLUS FREE ENTRY to the clinic of your choice at BIF28 in 2024.

Final drawing Sunday @9pm. Do not need to be present to win.

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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

STAFF Phil Bridgers Spencer Shuman Rachel Johnston Seth Neilson Abi Devan Adam Knoff Josephine Sterr Katie McKinstry Cooper Shuman

FESTIVAL DIRECTOR HYALITE + SAFETY COORDINATOR REGISTRATION COORDINATOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR WEB GURU LEAD GUIDE VOLUNTEER COORDINATOR SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR PHOTOGRAPHER

HYALITE GUIDES Taylor Lais, Gavin Porter, Lindsay Fixmar, Nadav Oaks, Joe Wagner, Sam Magro, Seth Timpano, Aki Joy, Anju Samuelson, Cal Smith, Tyler Sweeny, Matt Zia, Matt Marr, Lauren Smith, Ryan Griffiths, Andrew Lamb and Cheyenne Chaffee

GUIDES EMERITUS Clark Alexis, Mike Cooperstein, Rich Searle

BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL FOUNDERS Joel Lee, Barrel Mountaineering, Greg Caracciolo, Northern Lights Trading Co.

MT MTNEERING ASSOC. BOARD OF DIRECTORS Rebecca Taylor, Kevin Brumbach, Chad Dokken, Miguel Strunk

SPECIAL THANKS GCSAR, Conrad Anker, Richard Bailey, Kathryn Baker, Kat Barker, Matthew Beehler, Brent Bishop, City of Bozeman, Jill Brewster, Phillip Carberry, Doug Chabot, Rhett Clevenger, Karsten Delap, Tom Denno, Susan Denson-Guy, Phillip Dobson, Christine Eckert, Eddie Espinosa, Jim Ewing, Christian Folk, Dr. Stephen Halvorson, Aaron Hjelt, Ryan Holm, Jeff Johnston, Nate Kenney, Phil King, Alex Kutches, Cameron Larson, Matt Lewis, Liam Lonsdale, Felicia Luebeck, Lindsay Marie, Jessica Markowitz, Christian McConnell, Albert McDonald, Lisa McGrory, Johnathan Morrissey, Nathan Norby, Liz O’Brien, Patrick Odenbeck, Jess Powell, Jacob Raab, Angelika Rainer, Barry Blanchard, Pat Callis, Andres Marin, Austin Schmitz, Michael Spears, Renee Stevens, Leslie Sunseri, Lee Trebotich, Dirk Tyler, Wendi Urie, Lisa Verwys, Hayden Wilson, and so many more. Thank you.

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LOCALLY HAND CRAFTED

Montana’s Trophy Cider

Warm up with a HOT SPICED CIDER at our Downtown Bozeman Tasing Room!

Lockhorn Cider House 21 So Wallace Ave

YOGA s s a l C Dec 7, 8 and 9

Switch and get $200, plus a phone on us.

With select trade-in and 1 line on Unlimited Ultimate. $200 Verizon gift card.

Visit your local store.

$999.99 device payment or full retail purchase w/new smartphone line on Unlimited Ultimate plan req’d. $200 Verizon e-gift card w/port-in. Less $1,000 trade-in/promo credit applied over 36 mos.; promo credit ends if eligibility req’s are no longer met; 0% APR. Trade-in terms apply. © 2023 Verizon 10471_1123 52 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

A HUGE THANKS TO OUR

SPONSORS T

he Bozeman Ice Festival would not be possible without the generous commitment of the following organizations. Not only do they make the best gear and clothing on the planet, they make your climbing safer, more enjoyable, and they contribute an incredible amount behind the scenes to our event and Hyalite Canyon.

PRESENTING SPONSOR

SUPPORTING SPONSORS

COMMUNITY SPONSORS

ROPE SUPPLIER BEVERAGE SPONSOR COFFEE SUPPLIER

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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

The Summit Pumori GORE-TEXTM Pro Jacket

Unrestricted mobility.

Highly waterproof.

Team Athlete:

Location:

BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023 Fay Manners Norway

Photo:

Jan Virt

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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

THANK YOU!

SEE YOU NEXT YEAR

DECEMBER 4-8, 2024 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2023

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