PRESENTED BY
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WELCOME
to your 26th annual Bozeman Ice Festival! We’re exited to see friends both old and new join us in Bozeman as we celebrate, commisserate and most importantly—climb, together. Right from the start, we’d like to thank and acknowledge all the sponsors, participants, staff, volunteers, and community members who have consistently shown up and thrown down to make this event happenv. As we continue to evolve and grow, we need you all more than ever, and we’re looking forward to a great week of being connected here in Bozeman.
Welcome
There’s a great lineup of clinics in our beloved Hyalite Canyon this season, with amazing guides and some super fun lines to be had. The evenings in town promise to be memorable, with some very special guests who will be sharing their stories and films. From the peaks to the valley, this is going to be a great week, and we’re ready to enjoy every minute of it and hope you are as well. Stay safe, climb well, have fun—and have a great Bozeman Ice Festival 2022!
INCLUSIVE INSTRUCTION AND OPEN ENVIRONMENTS:
The Bozeman Ice Fest strives for diversity across race, gender, age, religion, identity, and experiences to create an inclusive climbing community. We believe that you should be able to bring your true self to outdoor endeavors and we strive to provide instruction through safe and open learning environments. Our staff, volunteers, and participants are held to a high standard of professionalism and we have a zero-tolerance policy for any form of discrimination, harassment, or retaliation.
COVER ILLUSTRATION: @SETHSQUATCH
3 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
2022 EVENING SCHEDULE
COMMUNITY NIGHT WITH RAB + AAC: FILMS & SWAG
FREE | 6:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE
COMMUNITY NIGHT WITH RAB + AAC: FILMS & SWAG
FREE | 6:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE
LADIES NIGHT: BROAD CAST!
FREE | 6:30 P.M. | UPHILL PURSUITS
MY UPSIDE DOWN WORLD: ANGELIKA RAINER
$15 | 7:30 P.M.
EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER
SPINDRIFT: THE BARRY
BLANCHARD STORY
+ BEAR CANYON SINGERS + DANCERS
$15 | 7:30 P.M.
EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER
PITON: THE PAT CALLIS STORY + HOME CRAG WITH ANDERS MARIN
$15 | 7:30 P.M.
EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER
LOCAL LEGENDS DINNER + WRAP PARTY
$30 | 6:00 P.M. | EMERSON BALLROOM
4 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
PRESENTED BY BROAD BETA + BRONCO WILD FUND
COMMITTED.
There’s only one way to reach the top. You try and try again. There’s always failure. You learn from your past mistakes. Train some more. Gain experience. Then you try harder. Fail and fall again. You take a beating. Get hurt. And keep coming back. But in the end, when you pull past the point of no return, steady your breath, and stare down what’s between you and success, you know what you have to do. Commit. We know what it takes. At Black Diamond, we’re committed to catching the falls along the way.
5 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
Jeremiah Watt
Black Diamond Athlete Aaron Mulkey
MONTANA MADE ADVENTURE READY SINCE 2013
6 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
YOUR HOST: LIAM LONSDALE
Liam Lonsdale is a professional presenter and photographer from the northern part of England. You may be most familiar with him as the effervescent voice of the Ice Climbing World Cup broadcasts since 2015, as well as multiple bouldering and lead competitions across the world. Liam is a passionate, globe-trotting climber and runner with many years of experience in both industries. He is particularly fond of the world of mountain festivals, and has been to at least one every year since 2007. We’re excited to have him back for our 26th festival!
7 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
EVENING DETAILS
COMMUNITY NIGHT WITH RAB + AAC: FILMS & SWAG
COMMUNITY NIGHT WITH RAB + AAC: FILMS & SWAG
Come and get the Festival spirit rolling with Rab and the American Alpine Club’s evening gatherings at the Lockhorn Cider House! This casual night is always a good way to kick off the week—drop in and see some old friends, have some cider, and get inspired for the adventures to come this week.
8 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
FREE | 6:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE FREE | 6:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE
BROADCAST: LADIES NIGHT AT UPHILL PURSUITS
Join us for a night of inspiring short stories of women’s climbing adventures, from the ordinary to the heroic, comic to tragic, all with heartfelt honest challenges.
Nikki Smith, Anna Pfaff, Katie McKinstry, Deb Glosser, Maiza Lima and Francine Spang Willis will share their unique inner and outside experiences in wildness.
For women and gender queer folks. Free admission. Pizzas by LaFoley Kitchen, beer and raffle provided.
Broad Beta: Empowering women and gender queer folks to embrace wild ideas, wild experiences and the preservation of wildness.
10 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
6:00 P.M. | UPHILL PURSUITS
+ BROAD BETA + BRONCO WILD FUND
Whatever your backcountry goals might be—ski, climb, ride or run— Uphill Pursuits is ready to provide all the gear and expertise you need to explore the great backyard we all share—and beyond.
MY UPSIDE DOWN WORLD: ANGELIKA RAINER
Angelika Rainer, born in Merano in 1986, is a three-times world champion in ice climbing and receives recognition around the world for her sporting skills. The Merano climber was the first woman in her family able to decide for herself what she wanted to do with her life. After the world championship titles and ten years of international competitions, the time has come for Angelika to steer her career in a new direction.
Angelika will be with us tonight for a Q&A— join us!
12 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
$15 | 7:30 P.M.
EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER
+
$15 | 7:30 P.M.
This short experimental documentary follows world-renowned mountain climber Barry Blanchard who has had an accident and suffered a serious brain injury. In this unconscious state he reflects on his life and tries to resolve what has happened, why his life of adventure, love and tragedy has led to this, and whether he will wake up from this shattered dream.
Barry will be with us tonight for a Q&A—come join us!
We’re also excited to have the Bear Canyon Singers & Dancers return to share their talents and help us celebrate! A BIF favorite!
13 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER
SPINDRIFT: THE BARRY BLANCHARD STORY
BEAR CANYON SINGERS + DANCERS
$15 | 7:30 P.M.
This story follows climbing legend, Pat Callis (83 years old), as he revisits his early first ascents around Montana on ice and rock. Featuring interviews with Jack Tackle, Gayle Callis, and Terry Kennedy, the film follows Pat to a variety of Montana rock and ice climbs, some he pioneered when first coming to the state and others he helped developed over the years. Each climb is a reflection of a time in his life - sparking stories reflecting on the early days of climbing and within these stories his insight to drive and motivation, community, history, family and wisdom.
Pat and the filmmakers will be with us tonight for a Q&A—come join us!
14 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER
PITON: THE PAT CALLIS STORY + HOME CRAG WITH ANDERS MARIN
LOCAL LEGENDS DINNER +
PARTY
Local climbers Kevin Lindlau, Joe Wagner, Katie McKinstry, and Joe Stylos are back from a 5 week’s adventure in the Dolomites of Italy, after doing what? Drytooling, in a cave, hanging upside down, and trying really really hard. After a trip in 2019, Kevin and Joe Wagner knew they had to go back, and with Covid and the world being on lockdown the trip was pushed back year after year. With normalcy on the horizon and stoked at an all-time high, Kevin and Joe Wagner knew it was time to return—but this time with Katie and Joe Stylos.
With tales of inspiring lines, memories of friends, and trying at their physical and mental limit, they are back to tell us the story of Tomorrow’s World.
15 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
$30 | 6:00 P.M. | EMERSON BALLROOM
WRAP
125 W Main St Open for lunch & dinner 7 days a week backcountryburgerbar.com 406.577.2454 Sunday-Thursday 11am – 9pm Friday and Saturday 11am – 10pm
Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday, dinner on the weekends! Monday–Friday 11am - 9:30pm Saturday–Sunday 4pm - 9:30pm 406.404.1270 pizzacampania.net 1285 N Rouse Ave
ON-ICE CLINICS
For twenty-six years, Hyalite Canyon on-ice clinics have been the heart and soul of the Bozeman Ice Festival.
Our clinics take place in beautiful Hyalite Canyon just a few miles from downtown Bozeman. One of the premier locations in America, Hyalite provides a unique wilderness experience in the heart of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. Our clinics are the perfect opportunity to safely gain experience and learn from the best in the business.
HYALITE ADVANCED BASE CAMP
After a big day of climbing in Hyalite be sure to swing by the Black Diamond Advanced Base Camp, located in the Chisolm parking area. There will be a shuttle provided from Chisolm to the Grotto Falls trailhead. Hang out, swap stories, talk gear, and celebrate another great day in the mountains.
18 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
PHOTO: SARAH KLINTWORTH
PHOTO: LOUIS AREVALO
Our full day clinics include demos of the best technical gear on the planet including boots, crampons, axes, harnesses, helmets and clothing, 5+ hours of on-ice instruction by world-class climbers, and raffle tickets for the industry’s best gear giveaways.
CLINIC LOCATIONS
The Bozeman Ice Festival holds full day clinics in Hyalite Canyon at the following areas:
Genesis (G1 Wall)
Mummy II & Scepter
Amphitheater
Unnamed Wall
Hyalite Canyon has another 200+ ice and mixed routes within two miles of the parking lot for the climbing community to explore and enjoy all that Hyalite provides.
All clinics meet at and depart from the Grotto Falls Trailhead. All participants should plan on parking at the Chisolm Parking lot. Shuttles will be provided from the Black Diamond Equipment Advanced Base Camp at the Chisolm Parking Lot to Grotto Falls. Clinics generally run from 8:00am to 3:30pm.
Clinics are sold out—so what can I do?
Every year there are a handful of no-shows or last second cancellations. Even if you are on a waiting list, please check in with us at the Emerson Ballroom the night before you want to participate in Hyalite Canyon. Local guide service Montana Alpine Guides also runs courses during the ice fest and all winter. Contact them at www.mtalpine.com
19 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
CLINICS IN HYALITE
PHOTO: LOUIS AREVALO
Swing some tools, make friends, try the latest and greatest gear, learn something new, and even change your life.
RETURNING DEMO GEAR
Any demo gear you’ve checked out needs to be returned in the Hyalite parking area as soon as you are done climbing for the day.
This is the best way for us to ensure the next group has access to the same great gear as you. Warm up in the Black Diamond Advanced Base camp and be sure to bring extra boots and warm jackets once you return your demo gear.
We understand there are unexpected challenges or occassionally absent minds. But if gear is not returned to the Emerson Ballroom by 6:00pm every night, you will be charged a $50 late fee.
Fail to return the gear by 7:00am the morning following your clinic and you will be charged the full retail price for the gear on your Rental Agreement Form.
PHOTO: LOUIS AREVALO
PHOTO: LOUIS AREVALO
This year’s silent auction has moved online! Scan the QR code on this page to visit the auction site where you can bid either via text or on the website. This format will amek it easy for people to know when they’ve been outbid or “buy it now” if the price is right! You can also donate through the site, which helps keep the festival running smooth, as well as the GNF Avalanche Center and Friends of Hyalite.
INSTRUCTIONS
First, visit the site by scanning the QR code on this page. You’ll be taken to the auction site, where you can see all the items up for bidding, thanks to our kind sponsors. You can bid there directly on the site, or you can send a text (970) 696-8877 with the item’s three letter code and bid amount, for example “AAG50”. Either way, you’ll receive instant outbid notifications and will be automatically notified if you have won any items at the end of the auction. You can also add a donation on the site and help keep Hyalite plowed—thank you in advance for your kind contributions! Find one of the BIF staff if you have any quextions, and good luck! https://bit.ly/3FmeOnE
SCAN THE CODE REVIEW THE AUCTION PLACE YOUR BID WIN!
23 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022 SILENT AUCTION
1 2 3 4
(AND DONATE!)
How do I get to my clinics in Hyalite Canyon?
Parking is very limited in Hyalite Canyon. We strongly encourage you to carpool from Bozeman or the Park and Ride lot just 1.5 miles from the end of the road.
Carpool information and sign ups can be found in the Emerson Ballroom each night.
Driving Directions
From Main Street, go south on Highland Boulevard (near the Western Heritage Inn) or Willson Ave (one block from the Emerson) to Kagy Boulevard. Turn right (west) on Kagy and continue to 19th Street and turn left (south). Continue south on 19th to the edge of the mountains and the Hyalite Canyon Road (left) a half mile past an obvious 90-degree turn.
Follow the Hyalite Canyon Road for approximately 12 miles going around the reservoir to the Chisolm
Parking Lot.
What time do I leave in the morning?
The on-ice classes gather in Hyalite at 8:30am every day. We recommend you leave downtown Bozeman no later than 7:15 a.m. with 7:00 a.m. preferred. The road can be treacherous, and it is advised you take your time getting there. Accidents due to late folks rushing are not uncommon. The road is usually plowed (but not sanded due to watershed concerns) so a 2-wheel drive vehicle may be passable, but not advised. If unsure of the driving or conditions, please allow extra time.
24 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
ON ICE INFO
Whether you are looking for a piece of western artwork, need a Montana souvenir, or want to grab a bite to eat, you will discover an array of casual and fine dining restaurants, art galleries, unique retail shops, sporting goods for all your outdoor adventures and much more!
25 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
Santero is a mountaineering apparel company born in Mexico and based in the US. We use the highest quality materials in the market such as Polartec® and Recco® At Santero we design durable, functional, and high-performance clothing that will keep you comfortable and safe in the harshest weather conditions Visit us in our booth at the Bozeman Ice Festival! www.santeroapparel.com IG: @Santero_apparel
Fresh footprints and untouched lines, the winter is full of possibility. With the landscape frozen, new routes are revealed. We dare to go further, steeper, and higher than before.
Demanding, fickle and often fleeting, nothing offers challenge like the winter season. Our range is designed to let you thrive in this hostility. Hewn from ice, granite, and grit, this gear is strong, protective, and refined. Built to help you meet the challenges of winter head on.
WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT
Map Excerpt from Friends of Hyalite Winter Recreation Map, published in Oct 2016
Nordic Ski Trail
Groomed Intermittently Established groomed nordic ski trails. These are marked with blue ski trail markers or signs. Grooming may be infrequent.
Fat Bikes NOT allowed.
Trail Rating: Easy Moderate
Ice Climber Route
No signs or indicators. May move from year to year and may come and go throughout the season. Ice Festival locations will be marked with a BIF Banner.
Designated Nordic Ski Route
(Ungroomed) These are roads or hiking trails that are formally designated ski routes by the US Forest Service. They are marked with blue ski trail markers or signs. Fat Bikes and motorized travel is not allowed.
Trail Rating: Easy Moderate
Facilities
Parking
Restrooms (open in winter)
Forest Service Cabin (rental) Campground (closed in winter)
Gate
Recreation Areas
Back Country Ski Area
Nordic Skiing - groomed
Ice Climbing Area
Approaches to some ice climbs in Hyalite require climbers to cross through or underneath avalanche paths. It is important to be aware of current snowpack conditions and consequences of being caught in an avalanche. Even small slides are deadly in this terrain, and have injured and killed climbers before.
30 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022 AVALANCHE SAFETY
the
up-to-date snowpack info:
To get
most
current
• Attend Doug Chabot’s
conditions talk on Thursday evening
• Visit www.mtavalanche.com for daily snowpack updates
A NEW CHAPTER
TheMontana Mountaineering Association is excited to welcome the Bozeman Ice Fest to the rest of our programs including the Junior Mountaineering Team and Touch the Sky youth climbing camps. The Ice Fest brings together the community around our shared love of the mountains and positive impact time spent in the mountains has on the rest of our lives. Through educational clinics both on and off the ice, story-telling events, and shared community space, the Ice Fest is an amazing opportunity to fulfill the mission of MMA. We’re looking forwards to continuing our work of supporting accessible and inclusive access to mountain education.
MMA’s mission is to is to support the Montana community with education and mentorship regardless of economic background, previous experience, gender, age, sexual orientation, race, or ethnicity. As a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization, we fulfill our mission by offering a variety
32 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022 TURNING THE PAGE
MATT ZIA
PHOTO: JASON THOMPSON
TURNING THE PAGE
of instructional experiences, including guided trips and educational programs focused on alpine endeavors. Our programs and events span a wide breadth of mountain pursuits, from rock and ice climbing, to backcountry skiing. We maintain high quality programming through continuing professional development and a commitment to highly competitive wages for our instructors. Through a combination of community partnerships, scholarship support, and free and reduced cost programs, we work to reduce the barriers to entry associated with mountain sports and access to high quality education and mentorship.
Since 2003 MMA has supported the mountain community of SW Montana and beyond, and we’ve seen the positive ripple effect that a generation of youth and adults impacted by our programs have on their communities both far and wide. We’re excited to see what the next generation does!
33 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
YOUR ADVENTURES, ONLY COOLER.
HYPERLITEMOUNTAINGEAR.COM +
A GETAWAY YOU CAN FEEL GOOD ABOUT
STAY SOMEWHERE THAT MAKES A DIFFERENCE
BORN DIFFERENT 17 EAST MAIN STREET, BOZEMAN MT voormi.com MADE BETTER.
the Power of Law Join U phill Pursuits and C ottonwood Environmenta l Law Center on Dec. 13 th fro m 6:30-8 pm fo r complimen ta ry b eer, wine, appetizers, and a di s cussi o n of conserv at ion, r ecrea t ion, and overc onsu m ption in a time of climate chang e. 211 E. Oak. Cannery Distric t 4-6 pm 111 E. Oak Cannery D istrict
Using
Welcome to the perfect basecamp for your uniquely Montana adventure. Our little corner of downtown Bozeman was designed specifically to help you get the most out of a stay in Southwest Montana. WHERE BOZEMAN BEGINS LARKBOZEMAN.COM | 406.624.3070
Guiding Professionally Since 1985 Guided Ice & Rock Climbs | Climbing Courses Mountain Expeditions to Peru Backcountry Skiing | Avalanche Education | Gear Rentals mtalpine.com 406-586-8430
PHANTOM TECHHD TECHNICAL, LIGHTWEIGHT
PHANTOM TECHHD is a technical boot for cold weather mountaineering and ice climbing. Extremely lightweight, low profile, snug and comfortable fit with great dexterity.
SCARPA.COM
Athlete: Aaron Mulkey. Photographer Jeremiah Watt.
Catch a great moment in the canyon? Something too good to believe at the Emerson? Share it with the Bozeman Ice Festival community with the hashtags #bozemanicefest and #bif26. Check out our Instagram feed @bozemanicefest!
FOOD TRUCK RODEO
42 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022 SHARE THE STOKE
We can hang.
Tim Emmett Climber + Alpinist
ONLY 200 TICKETS SOLD
$20 EACH
STOKE PACKAGE THE
Outfit yourself for a lifetime of ice climbing from Black Diamond. Featuring everything you need to be an ice climber— from clothing to gear!
PLUS FREE ENTRY to the clinic of your choice at BIF26 in 2022.
Final drawing Sunday @9pm. Do not need to be present to win.
46 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022 WE DO THE COOKING, PLACE AN ORDER FOR PICKUP AT OUR BOZEMAN SHOP, OR HAVE YOUR ORDER SHIPPED TO THE ADDRESS YOU CALL “BASECAMP” AND GET BACK OUT THERE. 96 LAURA LOUISE LANE, UNIT 11, BOZEMAN, MT 98718 GASTROGNOMEMEALS.COM
STAFF
Phil Bridgers
Dana Odenbeck
Spencer Shuman
Rachel Johnston
Seth Neilson
Abi Devan
Adam Knoff
Matt Hopkins
Josephine Sterr
Katie McKinstry
Nate Kenney
FESTIVAL DIRECTOR
EVENT COORDINATOR
HYALITE COORDINATOR
REGISTRATION COORDINATOR
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
WEB GURU
LEAD GUIDE
SAFETY COORDINATOR
VOLUNTEER COORDINATOR
SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR
VIDEOGRAPHER
HYALITE GUIDES
GUIDES EMERITUS
Clark Alexis, Mike Cooperstein, Rich Searle
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL FOUNDERS
Joel Lee, Barrel Mountaineering, Greg Caracciolo, Northern Lights Trading Co.
MT MTNEERING ASSOC.
BOARD OF DIRECTORS
SPECIAL THANKS
GCSAR, Conrad Anker, Richard Bailey, Kathryn Baker, Kat Barker, Matthew Beehler, Brent Bishop, City of Bozeman, Jill Brewster, Phillip Carberry, Doug Chabot, Rhett Clevenger, Karsten Delap, Tom Denno, Susan Denson-Guy, Phillip Dobson, Christine Eckert, Eddie Espinosa, Jim Ewing, Christian Folk, Dr. Stephen Halvorson, Aaron Hjelt, Ryan
Holm, Jeff Johnston, Nate Kenney, Phil King, Alex Kutches, Cameron Larson, Matt Lewis, Liam Lonsdale, Felicia Luebeck, Lindsay Marie, Jessica Markowitz, Christian McConnell, Albert McDonald, Lisa
McGrory, Johnathan Morrissey, Nathan Norby, Liz O’Brien, Patrick Odenbeck, Jess Powell, Jacob Raab, Angelika Rainer, Barry Blanchard, Pat Callis, Andres Marin, Austin Schmitz, Michael Spears, Renee Stevens, Leslie Sunseri, Lee Trebotich, Dirk Tyler, Wendi Urie, Lisa Verwys, Hayden Wilson, and so many more. Thank you.
47 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
Dane Christensen, Lindsay Fixmer, Taylor Lais, Nadav Oaks, Gavin Porter, Joe Wagner, Matt Zia
Rebecca Taylor, Kevin Brumbach, Chad Dokken, Miguel Strunk
Rest ♦ Relax ♦ Rejuvenate In Historic Downtown Bozeman www.lewisandclarkmotels.com 8th & Main Street 406.586.3341 800.332.7666 steam ♦ soak ♦ swim ♦ sauna The Lewis & Clark Motel—Proudly Supporting Bozeman Ice Festival! scan me!
SPONSORS
The Bozeman Ice Festival would not be possible without the generous commitment of the following organizations. Not only do they make the best gear and clothing on the planet, they make your climbing safer, more enjoyable, and they contribute an incredible amount behind the scenes to our event and Hyalite Canyon.
PRESENTING SPONSOR
SUPPORTING SPONSORS
COMMUNITY SPONSORS
50 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022
A HUGE THANKS TO OUR
ROPE SUPPLIER COFFEE SUPPLIER BEVERAGE SPONSOR
DECEMBER 6-10, 2023
51 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022 THANK
YOU! SEE YOU NEXT YEAR
Athlete Tested. Expedition Proven.™ Reach your pinnacle in layers built to thrive above tree line. With our most breathablewaterproof technology and versatile warmth, Summit Series™ reimagines performance in the highest places.
Team Athlete: Matt Cornell Photo: Austin Schmitz
53 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2022 #GRIVELTOEACHTHEIROWN #CLIMBDIFFERENT GRIVEL-US.COM