PRES ENTE D BY
THE ALPINE ICE GTX Demo it at the Bozeman Ice Fest, Dec. 12-15 Take a clinic with LOWA Ambassadors Ines Papert, Carlos Buhler & Allison Roskelley Catch Ines Papert’s presentation “Alpinism on the Edge of Dreams” Emerson Crawford Theater, Dec. 14 at 7:30pm
ENDURING QUALITY. EXTRAORDINARY PERFORMANCE. Behold the Alpine Ice GTX, our lightweight, insulated alpine boot. Very stiff underfoot, with a close-to-ground profile for precise rock feel and loaded with comfort features such as a memory foam footbed and adjustable inner tongue, this is truly a “Formula One” boot for mixed climbing and low altitude expeditions.
ALPINE ICE GTX #lowaboots GORE-TEX, GTX, GORE, and GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY and design are registered trademarks of W.L. Gore & Associates Inc. VIBRAM®, the Octagon Logo, and the Yellow Octagon Logo and the color Canary Yellow are registered trademarks of Vibram S.p.A. Photo: © T. Senf. ©2019-20 LOWA Boots, LLC.
WELCOME
W
elcome to your 23rd annual Bozeman Ice Festival! As the festival kicks off, we want to thank everyone who has been a part of the festival over the years. From our friends who make it back every year, to the first-time ice climber, this is really a special opportunity to meet people and connect around this sport and location we hold so dear. It truly has grown into such a special event because of you. The stories, connections, and lessons are what continue to drive the Bozeman Ice Festival and our sport into the future. This year, we are excited to share an expanded course schedule with our clinic participants, where you can sharpen your skills in our new mountain, ice, and mixed climbing clinics. We will bring you amazing stories from around the world—and around the corner—on the big screen and through inperson presentations. Lastly, we hope that you will forge the next story of adventure. Whether you are picking up the sport for the first time, finding the inspiration to travel to a new location like the Spiti valley (featured in Himalayan Ice), or tightening your boots to walk a little further and find your new favorite route in Hyalite (check out the new routes featured in House of Hyalite or the insert in this program), we are happy to be a part of your climbing story. The Bozeman Ice Fest Staff
INCLUSIVE INSTRUCTION AND OPEN ENVIRONMENTS: The Bozeman Ice Fest strives for diversity across race, gender, age, religion, identity, and experiences to create an inclusive climbing community. We believe that you should be able to bring your true self to outdoor endeavors and we strive to provide instruction through safe and open learning environments. Our staff, volunteers, and participants are held to a high standard of professionalism and we have a zero-tolerance policy for any form of discrimination, harassment, or retaliation. COVER: CONRAD ANKER ON BOURBON TAN. PHOTO: AUSTIN SCHMITZ
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2019 EVENING SCHEDULE JEFF AND PRITI WRIGHT 6:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE Balancing climbing and full-time careers can be a challenge. Jeff and Priti Wright have been more successful than most in this pursuit: climbing big routes all over the world. After years of successful work-life balancing acts, they have decided to quit their jobs, put their stuff in storage, and take a year-long climbing sabbatical. Join us at Lockhorn Cider to hear their inspiring story!
GEAR SWAP + LIVE YOUR DREAM PRESENTATIONS PRESENTED BY A AC
5:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE The American Alpine Club offers the Live Your Dream Grant, a small grant meant to help bring adventure to more people. This year we have presentations from two past winners on their projects. Lisa Verwys used the grant to attempt a winter traverse of Yellowstone National Park on skis. Nate Bender used the grant to connect 27 high peaks in the Beartooth Mountains in a single trip. Join us at Lockhorn Cider for these inspiring presentations and the AAC gear swap.
ICE FEST KICK-OFF PARTY PRESENTED BY R AB
7:30 P.M. | BOZEMAN EVENT SPACE Wednesday is the true start to the Festival. Join us at the Bozeman Event Space for a fun night filled with music and revelry. Bozeman’s own Walcrik will be playing Americana music to get this party on its feet!
BOZEMAN ICE FILM FEST PRESENTED BY LA SPORTIVA, MYSTERY R ANCH, AND STERLING ROPES
7:30 P.M. | EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER Thursday night stokes the fire with three films exploring the spirit of climbing. Mystery Ranch’s Parallel Passions looks at Hyalite Canyon through the eyes of its brand ambassadors and how this amazing place has inspired their entire business. Sterling’s Adaptive is an moving film about Mo Beck and Jim Ewing attempting an all adaptive ascent of the Lotus Flower Tower in Canada’s Cirque of the Unclimbables. Lastly, La Sportiva’s Himalayan Ice follows Ari Novak and Karsten Delap on a trip to India’s Spiti Valley, where they find connection with an amazing place and a group of locals eager to build a climbing community.
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
SKIING THE DREAM COULOIR LIVE PRESENTATION BY HILAREE NELSON AND JIM MORRISON PRESENTED BY THE NORTH FACE
7:30 P.M. | EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER Lhotse, the 4th highest mountain in the world, has a feature that is often regarded by mountaineers and big mountain skiers, as a dream couloir. In the fall of 2018, Jim Morrison and Hilaree Nelson went to Nepal with one objective: the first ski descent of this amazing line. But the story goes much deeper. Come hear from Hilaree and Jim about the years of work that went into this expedition, the conditions that they needed to be just right, and the difficulty of skiing at 8000 meters.
ALPINISM ON THE EDGE OF DREAMS BY INES PAPERT SPECIAL GUESTS: THE BEAR CANYON SINGERS AND DANCERS PRESENTED BY LOWA
7:30 P.M. | EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER Ines Papert dedicates her time to first ascents and expeditions around the world. She and her partner Luka are at the forefront of alpine climbing and are motivated to find these unclimbed lines. Join Ines Papert as she shares stories from climbs all around the world, from Piz Badile and Grande Jorasses in the Alps, to Lost in China on Kyzyl Asker and an attempt of a new route on the south face of Shishapangma in the Himalaya, and recent route development in the Canadian Rockies.
AMGA GUIDE LINDSAY FIXMER + LOCAL LEGENDS WRAP PARTY $20 | 6:00 P.M. | EMERSON BALLROOM Our Sunday Night Local Legends Wrap Party is always a festival favorite! Join us for dinner and hear stories from Lindsay Fixmer about climbing new routes in Newfoundland and Iceland. Lindsay is an AMGA guide who leads clients around the world. She has also been a longtime location guide for the Bozeman Ice Festival.
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BRIDGER BREWING
FIRST POUR Come enjoy raffles, giveaways and a good time with fellow climbers. Test your strength with the Mystery Ranch pull-up contest, and have a pint of Hyalite APA!
THURSDAY, DECEMBER 5TH – 6–8:00 P.M. BRIDGER BREWING TAPROOM
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
CHRISTMAS STROLL We’re partnering with sponsors Treeline Coffee and The Lark to celebrate the annual Bozeman Christmas Stroll in classic Ice Climbing style! Dress warm and join us for the block party, complete with climbing wall, games, and ice climbing on the outdoor big screen.
SAT. DECEMBER 7TH 4:30 - 7:30 P.M.
YOUR HOST: LIAM LONSDALE
Liam Lonsdale is a professional presenter and photographer from the northern part of England. You may be most familiar with him as the effervescent voice of the Ice Climbing World Cup broadcasts since 2015, as well as multiple bouldering and lead competitions across the world. Liam is a passionate, globe-trotting climber and runner with many years of experience in both industries. He is particularly fond of the world of mountain festivals, and has been to at least one every year since 2007; this year, he joins us at the Bozeman Ice Festival! “Bozeman Ice Festival is legendary amongst the community. When I visited for the first time four years ago with the Ice Climbing World Cup it made a lasting impression. To be invited back, coming full circle from 2015 and returning this time to host the festival itself, it is a total privilege. I can’t wait to see all the familiar faces, and a bunch of new ones too, not to mention getting involved with the incredible programme of events!”
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EVENING DETAILS
THE CASE FOR A CLIMBING SABBATICAL WITH JEFF AND PRITI WRIGHT
6:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE
Priti and Jeff Wright have spent years climbing in the Cascades and around the world while balancing the constraints of their supremely adequate and marginally tolerable careers. Inadequate training, ‘weakened’ warrior syndrome, and shear exhaustion have caused them to call it quits and take their first Sabbatical together to sharpen their alpine climbing, hone their marriage, and test the limits of how long they can go without showering. We’re calling on all climber yuppies (and anyone who’s just afraid of financial instability) to come learn about how to plan for a Gap year and get inspired to shake it up...or just come for the pretty alpine pictures!
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB GEAR SWAP & LIVE YOUR DREAM PRESENTATIONS 5:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE The AAC gear swap is an Ice Fest tradition: take your old gear and give it new life. Or find that used gear you never knew you needed! Either way you will want to come down and check the gear swap out. In addition we have the Live Your Dream presentations. Every year, the American Alpine Club awards the Live Your Dream Grants. The purpose of the grant is to support and promote unforgettable experiences in the mountains, helping everyday adventurers take their opportunities and abilities to the next level. Join us for two presentations about projects from right in our wild backyard. Lisa Verwys, a Bozeman-based ice climber and backcountry skier, is excited to share experiences from her two Live Your Dream grant trips. In 2013, Lisa received a small grant to climb Granite Peak, and in 2017 she received another grant to attempt to ski across Yellowstone National Park—an epic trip that didn’t go as planned. Nate Bender is another Montana based athlete who in 2018 did a route connecting the 27 highest peaks in the Beartooth Mountains into a single extremely difficult trip. The difficulty comes from the route’s combination of verticality and ruggedness — 48,000 feet of ascent over its 100-mile expanse with 96% of it off trail. Learn about their trips and perhaps get inspired to live your own dream. Applications for the Live Your Dream Grant are due in the spring of 2020.
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ICE FEST KICK-OFF PARTY PRESENTED BY R AB
7:30 P.M. | BOZEMAN EVENT SPACE Wednesday night is our true start to the Festival. Join us at the Bozeman Event Space for a great night filled with music and revelry. Bozeman’s own Walcrik will be playing Americana music to get this party on its feet! Food and beverages available as well as raffles from Rab and other gear sponsors. A great way to kick off the ice climbing season and connect with other climbers before clinics begin!
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Whatever your winter backcountry goals might be—ski, climb, or run— Uphill Pursuits is ready to provide all the gear and expertise you need to explore the great backyard we all share—and beyond.
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BOZEMAN ICE FILM FEST 7:30 P.M. | EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER
The Bozeman Ice Film Fest welcomes you to join us for three films that capture the spirit of climbing.
Parallel Passions presented by Mystery Ranch
Adaptive presented by Sterling Ropes
Himalayan Ice presented by La Sportiva
PARALLEL PASSIONS MYSTERY RANCH’s Parallel Passions film provides a window into the design room of the backpack manufacturer. The film shows how their passion for pack building and design here in Bozeman matches and elevates their climbing ambassadors’ passion for putting the packs to use in the field.
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
ADAPTIVE In Adaptive, Sterling athletes Jim Ewing and Maureen Beck attempted the first unassisted adaptive climb of the Lotus Flower Tower in Canada’s Cirque of the Unclimbables.
HIMALAYAN ICE Himalayan Ice: In December 2018, alpinists Ari Novak and Karsten Delap set out for India to explore one of the most remote valleys in the Indian Himalaya with local climber Karn Kowshik. Their goal was to meet with the indigenous population of the Spiti Valley and try to support local ice climbing. What they found was perhaps the biggest treasure trove of unclimbed ice in all the Himalaya. Presented by La Sportiva.
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SKIING THE DREAM COULOIR BY HILAREE NELSON AND JIM MORRISON PRESENTED BY THE NORTH FACE
8:00 P.M. | EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER National Geographic 2018 Adventurer of the Year and North Face team captain Hilaree Nelson and North Face athlete Jim Morrison teamed up to attempt a ski descent of Lhotse, the 4th highest mountain in the world. The Lhotse Couloir is a 60+ degree, 1500 foot line off of the summit that spills into the Lhotse face. The combination of high altitude, fickle snow conditions, and incredibly steep terrain has turned back multiple expeditions and is part of the reason it is referred to as the dream line. Hilaree Nelson first climbed the line in 2012 when it wasn’t in condition to be skied and had been working ever since to get back. Over the past two years Jim and Hilaree have teamed up to climb and ski difficult lines around the world all in preparation for a fall 2018 attempt at this mountain. Join us to hear more from Jim and Hilaree about their preparation, the climb, and one of the biggest Himalayan ski descents ever.
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
ALPINISM ON THE EDGE OF DREAMS BY INES PAPERT SPECIAL GUESTS - THE BEAR CANYON SINGERS + DANCERS PRESENTED BY LOWA
8:00 P.M. | EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER Ines Papert is a four-time ice climbing world cup champion and world class alpinist. She dedicates her time to first ascents and travels around the world to find these unclimbed lines. Her presentation Alpinism on the Edge of Dreams looks at this journey, from Piz Badile and Grande Jorasses in the Alps, to Lost in China on Kyzyl Asker and an attempt of a new route on the south face of Shishapangma in the Himalaya, and recent route development in the Canadian Rockies.
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LINDSAY FIXMER + LOCAL LEGENDS WRAP PARTY $20 | 6:00 P.M. | EMERSON BALLROOM Lindsay Fixmer is our featured local legend this year. An AMGA guide who splits time between Hyalite Canyon and the High Sierra, Lindsay has a quiet stoke that drives her to find new routes and climb difficult lines around the world. She is also one of our long time location guides who makes the on-ice clinics possible! After her four days of guiding clinics she will present on recent trips to Newfoundland and Iceland. Join us to hear about climbing ice in these far-off fjords and find inspiration to bring in to the rest of your ice season. We hope you enjoy the presentation and gourmet dinner that marks the end of our Festival. In addition to Lindsay’s talk we will present the annual Guy Lachelle Hyalite Service Award and have the drawing for BIF’s Stoke Raffle.
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
LIVE. CLIMB. REPEAT.
BD Athlete Will Gadd | Canmore, Alberta
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
Ted Hesser
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ON-ICE CLINICS For more than two decades, Hyalite Canyon on-ice clinics have been the heart and soul of the Bozeman Ice Festival.
Our clinics take place in beautiful Hyalite Canyon just a few miles from downtown Bozeman. One of the premier locations in America, Hyalite provides a unique wilderness experience in the heart of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. Our clinics are the perfect opportunity to safely gain experience and learn from the best in the business.
HYALITE ADVANCED BASE CAMP
After a big day of climbing in Hyalite be sure to swing by the Black Diamond Advanced Base Camp, located in the Grotto Falls parking area. There’s nothing like the camaraderie of other climbers and a hot drink in your hands to take the chill off after a day on the ice. Make sure you take advantage of our Beacon Park and keep your beacon skills sharp—your partners will thank you! Come in and warm up, have a hot drink, swap stories, talk gear, and celebrate another great day in the mountains. BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
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CLINICS IN HYALITE Our full day clinics include demos of the best technical gear on the planet including boots, crampons, axes, harnesses, helmets and clothing, 5+ hours of on-ice instruction by world-class climbers, free VIP pass for in-town events, and raffle tickets for the industry’s best gear giveaways.
CLINIC LOCATIONS The Bozeman Ice Festival holds full day clinics in Hyalite Canyon at the following areas: Genesis (G1 Wall)
Amphitheater
Mummy II & Scepter
Unnamed Wall
Hyalite Canyon has another 200+ ice and mixed routes within two miles of the parking lot for the climbing community to explore and enjoy all that Hyalite provides. All clinics meet at and depart from the Black Diamond Equipment Advanced Base Camp at the end of the road in Hyalite at the Grotto Falls Parking Lot. Clinics generally run from 8:00am to 3:30pm.
Clinics are sold out—so what can I do? Every year there are a handful of no-shows or last second cancellations. Even if you are on a waiting list, please check in with us at the Emerson Ballroom the night before you want to participate in Hyalite Canyon. Local guide service Montana Alpine Guides also runs courses during the ice fest and all winter. Contact them at www.mtalpine.com.
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Swing some tools, make friends, try the latest and greatest gear, learn something new, and even change your life.
RETURNING DEMO GEAR Any demo gear you’ve checked out needs to be returned in the Hyalite parking area as soon as you are done climbing for the day. This is the best way for us to ensure the next group has access to the same great gear as you. Warm up in the Black Diamond Advanced Base camp and be sure to bring extra boots and warm jackets once you return your demo gear. We understand there are unexpected challenges or occassionally absent minds. But if gear is not returned to the Emerson Ballroom by 6:00pm every night, you will be charged a $50 late fee. Fail to return the gear by 7:00am the morning following your clinic and you will be charged the full retail price for the gear on your Rental Agreement Form.
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Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday, dinner on the weekends! Monday–Friday 11am - 9:30pm Saturday–Sunday 4pm - 9:30pm
406.404.1270 pizzacampania.net 1285 N Rouse Ave
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
ON ICE INFO How do I get to my clinics in Hyalite Canyon? Parking is very limited in Hyalite Canyon. We strongly encourage you to carpool from Bozeman or the Park and Ride lot just 1.5 miles from the end of the road. Carpool information and sign ups can be found in the Emerson Ballroom each night.
Driving Directions From Main Street, go south on Highland Boulevard (near the Western Heritage Inn) or Willson Ave (one block from the Emerson) to Kagy Boulevard. Turn right (west) on Kagy and continue to 19th Street and turn left (south). Continue south on 19th to the edge of the mountains and the Hyalite Canyon Road (left) a half mile past an obvious 90-degree turn. Follow the Hyalite Canyon Road for 13.5 miles going around the reservoir to the end of the road, known as the Grotto Falls Parking Lot.
What time do I leave in the morning? The on-ice classes gather in Hyalite at 8:30am every day. We recommend you leave downtown Bozeman no later than 7:15 a.m. with 7:00 a.m. preferred. The road can be treacherous, and it is advised you take your time getting there. Accidents due to late folks rushing are not uncommon. The road is usually plowed (but not sanded due to watershed concerns) so a 2-wheel drive vehicle may be passable, but not advised. If unsure of the driving or conditions, please allow extra time.
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
Whether you are looking for a piece of western artwork, need a Montana souvenir, or want to grab a bite to eat, you will discover an array of casual and fine dining restaurants, art galleries, unique retail shops, sporting goods for all your outdoor adventures and much more!
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MYSTERY RANCH Ambassador Becky Switzer Drew Smith
Strip it down, or dress it up.
AVAILABLE NOW
SCEPTER Of those pursuing ice and rock, the SCEPTER is a new authority in pack modularity that excels in moraine, talus navigation, or the headwall project. Available in 35 and 55L, the SCEPTER is designed to adapt to the requirements of the user while maintaining functionality of use with gloved hands.
Clip over to mysteryranch.com
Map Excerpt from Friends of Hyalite Winter Recreation Map, published in 26 2016 Oct
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
Nordic Ski Trail Groomed Intermittently Established groomed nordic ski trails. These are marked with blue ski trail markers or signs. Grooming may be infrequent. Fat Bikes NOT allowed. Trail Rating:
Easy
Moderate
Ice Climber Route No signs or indicators. May move from year to year and may come and go throughout the season. Ice Festival locations will be marked with a BIF Banner.
Designated Nordic Ski Route (Ungroomed) These are roads or hiking trails that are formally designated ski routes by the US Forest Service. They are marked with blue ski trail markers or signs. Fat Bikes and motorized travel is not allowed. Trail Rating:
Easy
Moderate
Facilities Parking Restrooms (open in winter) Forest Service Cabin (rental) Campground (closed in winter) Gate Recreation Areas Back Country Ski Area Nordic Skiing - groomed Ice Climbing Area
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HOUSE OF HYALITE
TED! UPDA
Guidebooks are never truly done. There is always more or better information out there. With one of the coldest Octobers on record, locals wasted no time making The House of Hyalite out of date as soon as it was published. All of these are quality, if not thin, new routes. By the time Ice Fest rolls around, they are not likely recommended (due to sublimation and snow levels) so save this beta for your 2020 ice season opener!
ICE WEASEL
ZACHARY KOESTER ON FIRST ASCENT PHOTO BY DAVID WELLS
FLANDERS NON-LETHAL EJECTION ** 25M, WI4 FA: CHAD DOKKEN, RYAN LOCATI, ANDREW LAMB. 10/13/19
This is found in the corner immediately right of the pillar pitch on High Crimes. When formed, it is partially visible from the trail. The lower pitches of High Crimes can be a worthwhile diversion before too much snow but can be bypassed if not formed. The route offers thin ice with some steep bits to a tree on the right.
EAST FORK PLUTO IS A PLANET ** 60M, M5, WI4 R FA: CHAD DOKKEN, CONNOR HULT. 10/12/19
This flow is on the cliff band to the right of Asteroid and The Comet. Mix climb onto a thin narrow drip. Stepped ice leads to a boulder belay on the ledge. Bring an alpine rack and get ready for run out.
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
Hyalite Reservoir
Wilderness Study Area Boundary
Palisade Falls
UPPER FLANDERS
MUMMY EAST FACE
CLEO’S WALL
WINTER DANCE
Twin Falls
RFM
The Gift
Palace lake
PALACE BUTTE
ERS F LA ND
Flanders Mtn 9961ʼ
Point 10211ʼ
JOLLYWOOD Horsetail Falls
Code Red
Bulging Blues
FLANDERS CIRQUE
Lucky Feet
DRIBBLES
10120ʼ
9898ʼ MAID OF THE MIST
9563ʼ
CANDY LAND
Divide Mtn 10041ʼ
Emerald lake OVERLOOK
Heather lake
Blood on the Tracks
Chisholm Mtn 10333ʼ
Overlook Mtn 10265ʼ
Fridley Lakes
Hyalite lake Highland
Hyalite Peak 10298ʼ
LEGEND
Arden lake
Mummy Mtn 9563ʼ
MUMMY COOLER
Elephant Mtn 10085ʼ
Sleight of Hand
Champagne
RK
The Tusk
Mount Boles 10333ʼ
Sleeping Giant Falls
GENESIS
UNNAMED WALL
COMET ALLEY
FO
Blackmore Mtn 10154ʼ
Sleeping Giant Mtn 8921ʼ
ST
M A IN
BLA CKM
F ORK
ORE
620
EA
Blackmore Lake
ICE CLIMBING AREA ice or mixed climb Wilderness Study Area boundary USFS trail climber/ski trail nordic ski trail
NOMIC & ERGONOMIC Photo © www.kalice.fr
Steep and steeper. The new NOMIC maintains its world-famous swing and excels at climbing steep ice. Crafted for swinging and hooking into delicate or mixed lines, the ERGONOMIC is the choice for those climbing steeper or overhanging terrain. Both tools feature an overmolded dual handle, adjustable GRIPREST, modular head, and hydroformed shaft. www.petzl.com
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HOUSE OF HYALITE
TED! UPDA
HIDDEN HYALITE In a good year, the upper East Fork cirque holds scattered bits of ice all over and these new gems are among the cream of the crop. EMERALD LAKE The intriguing cliffs above Emerald Lake have taunted ice climbers for years. Some years it can be completely dry. These routes are described from right to left. SHOTGUN * 25M, WI 4 FA: ZACHARY KOESTER, DAVID WELLS, TATE DUNKEL. 10/3/19
Found at the base of a deep gully left of Blood on the Tracks. It can be 15m of ice with a short pillar to a big ledge. Up and left of this are a series of large icicles that are a project waiting to form well enough. THE EXPLOITED * 20M, WI4 FA: ZACHARY KOESTER, DAVID WELLS, TATE DUNKEL. 10/3/19
Either climb Shotgun and traverse the big ledge left or follow a snowy ramp directly to a nice consistent flow.
Come enjoy a pint! Every night from 5:30 - 7PM in the Emerson Ballroom
AMERICAN PALE ALE The Hyalite APA has a beautiful hazy, golden hue and a clean crisp malt character that supports a strong hop profile of tropical fruit, floral earthiness and subtle spice notes. 30
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
THE CLOSEST BEER TO HYALITE – 1609 S. 11th AVE. | #CLIMBERSLOVEBEER
MR. ROBOT
PHOTO BY DAVID WELLS
JACKHAMMER ** 60M, WI4 M4 R FA: ZACHARY KOESTER, DAVID WELLS, TATE DUNKEL. 10/3/19
This narrow splattering connecting thin icicles is just left of the others. The direct is overhanging rock so traverse from the base of The Exploited to reach the route HEATHER LAKE These two routes may win for the longest approach in Hyalite and are found on the steep cliff band west of Heather Lake. MR. ROBOT, *** 60M WI5 M5R FA: ZACHARY KOESTER, DAVID WELLS, TATE DUNKEL. 10/25/19
This is a full pitch of stellar WI5 with some spice thrown in. These classic routes are blessed with a small window of opportunity but are totally worth it. ICE WEASEL ** 80M, WI 5 M5R FA: ZACHARY KOESTER, DAVID WELLS, TATE DUNKEL. 10/25/19
This is the right-hand of the two routes. This is like a mild version of the classic Zack Attack and super fun.
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HOUSE OF HYALITE
“The House of Hyalite” will be available for purchase during Ice Fest at the Emerson. Look for JoJo at a table and come say hi! You can also find it and “Winter Dance” online at www.joejosephson.com.
H
yalite Canyon is not only blessed with an amazing amount of ice and mixed climbing, we are also fortunate to be home to one of the oldest and richest histories in the sport. Montana native Joe Josephson has been chronicling Hyalite ice climbing for nearly 25 years and recently published his 15th guidebook, “The House of Hyalite. A Climbers’ Guide to the Ice and Mixed Climbing of Hyalite Canyon.” This 416-page full-color book covers more than 320 routes across all four canyons. BIF Staff sat down with JoJo to talk about The House of Hyalite. Why now? What inspired you to put the guide out at this point in time? It has been long overdue but realistically, I finally had a window of time to commit to it. With a break in my day job fighting gold mines next to Yellowstone and finally passing the baton on organizing Ice Fest, I took advantage of a six-month window to crank it out.
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HOUSE OF HYALITE Really? It took just six months? There is a massive amount of information and design packaged in there. It was six hard months of insane effort but I foresaw the window coming in 2017 as we began reorganization of Ice Fest. Back then, I enlisted Matt Hopkins to begin coordinating the new routes, who did what, and about a million other details. I had been gathering intel for years but it took diving in head first with Matt to begin to make sense of it all. And countless others put up with my pestering to help with beta and photos. I’m truly honored to have trust from the community to share their photos, record their routes and give justice to our beloved canyon.
An overview of the Genesis and Mummy Cooler areas, from the latest edition of “The House of Hyalite”
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HOUSE OF HYALITE What are the biggest changes you’ve seen in Hyalite over the years? When Winter Dance was published in 2004, the road was not yet plowed and the season in Hyalite was effectively 6-8 weeks and dry tooling was still controversial. Leashes were still a thing back then. Now, the season is 5-6 months and we know so much more about the nature of the routes and everyone is climbing so much harder. All indications are that climate change is making things warmer but wetter. So although early season is less predictable, I’m seeing a lot more consistent routes forming overall. Some younger climbers have no idea that 20 years ago we didn’t know if some classics like Black Magic, Upper Mummy or The Big Sleep would ever form again. What is the one take away that you want to leave with people about “The House of Hyalite?” The guide is really meant to be used like a book and read from start to finish instead of quickly leafing to the latest tick list objective. Hyalite is a place of discovery. So even though the guide takes out some of that mystery, my hope is it inspires people to really get to know the canyon, the history and to get creative beyond the well-known or popular routes. This season saw at least four new quality routes in Hyalite before Halloween. So clearly there remains plenty of adventure to be found.
You have a story. Let's tell it.
Lauren Burgess, Lee Metcalf Wilderness (ancestral homelands of the ShoshoneBannock and Salish Kootenai tribes) | photo by Zach Altman @whitebarkmedia
Have a project in mind? lauren@headwalldigital.com
Let's connect—the first brew's on us.
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creative writing brand messaging website copy ad copy film scripts radio scripts editing BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019 product descriptions
ICE FEST RETAIL
N
ew this year is our Bozeman Ice Fest pop-up shop! A great way to purchase the gear you demoed right at the festival! Run by the newest outdoor retailer in Bozeman, Uphill Pursuits, and located behind the ballroom in the Emerson, you will want to head back there and check out the latest and greatest gear available.
BECAUSE BADASS ICE CLIMBERS DESERVE GREAT COFFEE
TREELINE COFFEE ROASTERS Your Adventure Starts Here...
SLINGING COFFEE FROM 6:30 am - 5 pm (ish) 624 N. WALLACE | 139 E. MAIN
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
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AVALANCHE SAFETY
Approaches to some ice climbs in Hyalite require climbers to cross through or underneath avalanche paths. It is important to be aware of current snowpack conditions and consequences of being caught in an avalanche. Even small slides are deadly in this terrain, and have injured and killed climbers before.
To get the most up-to-date snowpack info: • Attend Doug Chabot’s current conditions talk on Thursday evening • Visit www.mtavalanche.com for daily snowpack updates 36
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
BEACON PARK Take a moment to check your skills and gear by stopping at the Mammut Beacon Park on Sunday at the Grotto Falls trailhead.
Discover open spaces, natural light and modern amenities at Element Bozeman. Find us just two blocks off Main Street. Element Bozeman, 25 East Mendenhall Street, Bozeman, Montana 59715 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019582 4972 37 elementbozeman.com 1 406
• Locally Crafted • Gluten Free • No Added Sugar • Sulfite Free
Real Climbers Drink Cider! 21 South Wallace Ave Bozeman, Montana
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www.LockhornHardCider.com BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
125 W Main St
Open for lunch & dinner 7 days a week Sunday-Thursday 11am – 9pm Friday and Saturday 11am – 10pm
backcountryburgerbar.com
406.577.2454
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
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SHARE THE STOKE Catch a great moment in the canyon? Something too good to believe at the Emerson? Share it with the Bozeman Ice Festival community with the hashtags #bozemanicefest and #bif23. Check out our Instagram feed @bozemanicefest!
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
DEMO OUTDOOR RESEARCH AND FIND THE BEST GLOVE FOR YOUR NEXT ALPINE ICE PROJECT
PHOTO BY AMBASSADOR “The third bivy on Link Sar, GRAHAM ZIMMERMAN sat out a 36-hour storm.” BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
where the team
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NOW AVAILABLE AT MYOUTDOORALPHABET.COM 42
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
ONLY
200 TICKETS SOLD
THE
STOKE PACKAGE
Outfit yourself for a lifetime of ice climbing from Black Diamond. Featuring everything you need to be an ice climber— from clothing to gear!
PLUS FREE ENTRY to the clinic of your choice at BIF24 in 2020.
Final drawing Sunday @9pm. Do not need to be present to win.
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
PHOTO: DAVID WELLS | CLIMBER: SAM HENNESSY PHOTO: DAVID WELLS | CLIMBER: SAM HENNESSY
BEST BEST ENJOYED ENJOYED COLD. COLD.
HARDKOMBUCHA KOMBUCHASELTZER SELTZER HARD
ORGANIC | | 4.5% 4.5%ALCOHOL ALCOHOL | | 110 110CALORIES CALORIES ORGANIC CRAFTBREWED BREWEDWITH WITHHYALITE HYALITEWATER WATER CRAFT BOZEMAN,MONTANA MONTANA ININBOZEMAN, 44
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
FINDIT ITAROUND AROUNDTHE THESTATE STATEATATDEANSZESTYBOOCH.COM/FINDUS DEANSZESTYBOOCH.COM/FINDUS FIND
STAFF Kevin Dean Dana Weller Matt Hopkins Rachel Johnston Travis Russell Seth Neilson Abi Devan Adam Knoff Spencer Shuman
FESTIVAL DIRECTOR EVENT COORDINATOR HYALITE COORDINATOR REGISTRATION COORDINATOR MERCHANDISE COORDINATOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR WEB GURU LEAD GUIDE HYALITE VOLUNTEER MANAGER
HYALITE GUIDES Nadav Oakes, Tyler Sweeney, Taylor Lais, Nina Hance, Gavin Porter, Don Nguyen, Lindsay Fixmer, Keith Sidle, Dave Stimson, Chase Nelson, Dane Christiansen, Chris Cullaz, Matt Zia
GUIDES EMERITUS Clark Alexis, Mike Cooperstein, Rich Searle
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL FOUNDERS Joel Lee, Barrel Mountaineering, Greg Caracciolo, Northern Lights Trading Co.
ICE CLIMBING ALLIANCE BOARD OF DIRECTORS Joe Josephson, Brent Bishop, Dirk Tyler
SPECIAL THANKS Doug Chabot, Chris Lohss, Michael Spears, Richard Galli, City of Bozeman, Rich Bennett, Renee Stevens, Susan Denson-Guy, Conrad Anker, Dr. Stephen Halvorson, GCSAR, Sarah Leone, Alex Kutches, Liz O’Brien, Allison Allen, Christian Folk, Rhett Clevenger, Matt Lewis, Lisa Stoeffler, Wendi Urie, Matthew Beehler, Jill Brewster, Jess Powell, Richard Bailey, Spencer Schuman, Albert McDonald, Phillip Carberry, Quinn Carrasco, Maureen Beck, Jim Ewing, Ari Novak, Jacob Raab, Karsten Delap, Austin Schmitz, Jeff Wright, Priti Wright, Lisa Verwys, Nate Bender, Hilaree Nelson, Jim Morrison, Ines Papert, Lindsay Fixmer, Lee Trebotich, Cameron Larson, Christian McConnell, Joe Sheehan, Phil King, Leslie Sunseri, Ryan Holm, Christine Eckert and so many more.
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
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A HUGE THANK YOU TO OUR
SPONSORS T
he Bozeman Ice Festival would not be possible without the generous commitment of the following organizations. Not only do they make the best gear and clothing on the planet, they make your climbing safer, more enjoyable, and they contribute an incredible amount behind the scenes to our event and Hyalite Canyon.
PRESENTING SPONSOR
SUPPORTING SPONSORS
CONTRIBUTING SPONSORS
COMMUNITY SPONSORS
ROPE SUPPLIER BEVERAGE SPONSOR COFFEE SUPPLIER
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
PARTING SHOT
Ari Novak on the Elevator Shaft. Photo by Austin Schmitz.
SEE YOU NEXT YEAR
DEC. 7-13, 2020 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019
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Alan Rousseau Black Magic 5.9, WI5 The Black Magic Wall Hyalite Canyon, Montana
Available at
GRIVEL G20 PLUS 111 East Oak Street, Suite 1B (406)-404-1021
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Distrbuted by Liberty Mountain www.libertymountain.com • sales@libertymountain.com BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2019 9816 South Jordan Gateway (500 West) Sandy, UT 84070