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ALPINE ICE GTX #lowaboots GORE-TEX, GTX, GORE, and GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY and design are registered trademarks of W.L. Gore & Associates Inc. VIBRAM®, the Octagon Logo, and the Yellow Octagon Logo and the color Canary Yellow are registered trademarks of Vibram S.p.A. ©2018-19 LOWA Boots, LLC.
WELCOME
W
elcome to the 22nd Annual Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival. For more than two decades Ice Fest has always honored our traditions and mentors but has also evolved with the sport, the styles, the climate, and even politics as they’ve shifted under our feet, above our heads and in the world around us. The complete Ice Fest story is much longer, and much richer, than can ever be contained in these few words. It is a robust tale of characters, drama, and even sorrow. But above all, it has been a story of exhausted smiles, wow moments, new relationships, and life-changing experiences. For a deeper glimpse into our story read more about it later in this program. Or better yet, ask an Ice Fest participant next to you. We invite you to add to this story—whether it is learning new skills to improve your climbing, creating lifelong friendships, or being inspired by athletic feats on the big screen. We hope you strive to move our sport and our community forward. In a town of many events and in a field of amazing ice festivals across the country, we like to think of ourselves as “the first best fest” of the winter season. With an increased staff capacity, the biggest line up of films and presenters in our history, and the always beautiful Hyalite Canyon as our backdrop, 2018 will prove to be the best fest yet. See you around Bozeman and in the “House of Hyalite.”
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2018 EVENING SCHEDULE
“EL CAPITAN”
A FILM BY FRED PADULA
6:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE Originally filmed in 1968 on the “The Nose” route and premiered a decade later, “El Capitan” is consistently ranked as one of the most beautiful climbing films of all time. Featuring gear raffles from Bozeman Ice Festival sponsors.
JEFF SHAPIRO PRESENTATION + AAC GEAR SWAP PRESENTED BY R AB
5:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE Jeff Shapiro found climbing at a young age in Washington’s North Cascades. Almost 30 years and many summits later Jeff will share his story about the partnerships and friendships that keep him coming back. The presentation will focus on two of Jeff’s first ascents in the greater ranges of the world.
“MOUNTAIN OF STORMS” + “FITZROY” PRESENTED BY PATAGONIA
7:30 P.M. | EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER This Bozeman premiere of the newly remastered “Mountain of Storms” will be followed by a special screening of “Fitzroy” a film by Lito Tejada-Flores.
TOM LIVINGSTONE PRESENTS “LATOK NORTH RIDGE” + BEAR CANYON SINGERS PRESENTED BY MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT
7:30 P.M. | EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER Tom Livingstone tells his story firsthand and shares his thoughts on the historic ascent of the North Ridge of Latok 1 (7,145m).
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“THE DAWN WALL” A FILM BY JOSH LOWELL, PETER MORTIMER AND BRETT LOWELL
8:00 P.M. | EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER In January, 2015, American rock climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson captivated the world with their effort to climb The Dawn Wall, a seemingly impossible 3,000 foot rock face in Yosemite National Park, California.
ADVENTURE FILM FEST TWO SCREENINGS — 10:00 A.M & 1:30 P.M EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER Adventurers, artists, filmmakers and activists created and run this festival because we believe in the power of the story and especially the narrative of adventure, awakening to change and challenging the world we live in. Get ready to awaken your senses while exploring the beautiful mysteries of our universe through the craftsmanship of storytellers, artists, extreme athletes and adventurers.
“FREE SOLO” A FILM BY ELIZABETH CHAI VASARHELYI & JIMMY CHIN
TWO SCREENINGS — 6:30 P.M. & 9:00 P.M. EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER Award-winning documentary filmmaker Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi (MERU) and world-renowned photographer and mountaineer Jimmy Chin partner with National Geographic to produce a stunning, intimate and unflinching portrait of the free soloist climber Alex Honnold as he prepares to achieve his lifelong dream: climbing the face of the 3,000-foot El Capitan in Yosemite National Park—without a rope.
ANNE GILBERT-CHASE + LOCAL LEGENDS WRAP PARTY $20 | 6:00 P.M. | EMERSON BALLROOM Seating is limited, get your tickets now! A great presentation, including a hearty dinner, the 10th Annual Guy Lacelle Hyalite Service Award, and the Stoke Package drawing at 9:00 pm.
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2018
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125 W Main St
Open for lunch & dinner 7 days a week Sunday-Thursday 11am – 9pm Friday and Saturday 11am – 10pm
backcountryburgerbar.com
406.577.2454
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2018
EVENING DETAILS
“EL CAPITAN” A FILM BY FRED PADULA
6:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE Originally filmed in 1968 on the “The Nose” route and premiered a decade later, “El Capitan” is consistently ranked as one of the most beautiful climbing films of all time. Digitally remastered, this is the perfect primer for our weekend screenings of “The Dawn Wall” and “Free Solo.” Featuring gear raffles from Bozeman Ice Festival sponsors.
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JEFF SHAPIRO PRESENTATION + AAC GEAR SWAP PRESENTED BY R AB
5:00 P.M. | LOCKHORN CIDER HOUSE Jeff Shapiro found climbing at a young age in Washington’s North Cascades. Almost 30 years and many summits later Jeff will share his story about the partnerships and friendships that keep him coming back. The presentation will focus on two of Jeff’s first ascents in the greater ranges of the world. One is a first ascent on the West/Northwest aspect of Ri Wu Qie Feng in the Daxue Shan Range in Western China. The West face is an iconic pyramid of technical rock and ice with no obvious way to the top. Black Wolves and Blue Poppies is a 1300m, WI4+ AI6 M5+ route Jeff and Chris Gibisch climbed in 2011. The second is the first ascent of the south face of Brammah II in the Kashmir Himalaya, India. A remote section of India known for its untapped potential after being reopened to climbing in 2012 after nearly 20 years of closure. Pneuma is a 1300m, VI AI4, M5 route that Jeff and Chris climbed in 2016. Join us for Jeff’s presentation and hear more about climbing light and fast in remote mountain ranges around the world.
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“MOUNTAIN OF STORMS” + “FITZROY” PRESENTED BY PATAGONIA
7:30 P.M. | EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER In 1968, five friends set out on a 5,000-mile road trip in a white Ford van bound for South America. They packed surfboards, skis, and climbing gear and documented the whole trip on a 16mm Bolex camera. From Ventura, California to a first ascent on Cerro Fitz Roy, with a stop for sand skiing and 31-days in an ice cave in between, Mountain of Storms not only prefigured the modern adventure movie, it serves as the mythological origin story behind the Patagonia name and philosophy, and informed a founding principle that would come to dominate these men’s lives for the next five decades: what’s important isn’t what you accomplished, it’s how you got there. This Bozeman premiere of the newly remastered “Mountain of Storms” will be followed by a special screening of “Fitzroy” a film by Lito Tejada-Flores. This rarely screened art film (27 minutes) won the Grand Prize at the 1968 Trento Film Festival.
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TOM LIVINGSTONE PRESENTS “LATOK NORTH RIDGE” + BEAR CANYON SINGERS PRESENTED BY MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT
7:30 P.M. | EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER In August 2018, word filtered out of Pakistan that the fabled North Ridge of Latok 1 (7,145m) had finally been climbed. Following on the heals of a dramatic helicopter rescue of a Russian climber, Slovenian’s Ales Cesen and Luka Strazar, and the UK’s Tom Livingstone made the first ascent of the mountain from the north via a variation to the North Ridge, and only the peak’s second ascent ever. Latok’s North Ridge has had a mythic appeal since the American team of Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy, George Lowe and Jeff Lowe nearly succeeded on the long, committing ridge in 1978. They came within a few hundred meters of the summit, but they retreated after Jeff Lowe nearly died from a sudden onset of altitude sickness. Thwarting the world’s best for another four decades, no one has yet surpassed their ridge high point, despite many attempts by elite alpinists over the years. Come to the Emerson Crawford Theater to hear Tom Livingstone, tell his story firsthand and share his thoughts on this historic ascent.
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“THE DAWN WALL� A FILM BY JOSH LOWELL, PETER MORTIMER AND BRETT LOWELL
8:00 P.M. | EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER In January, 2015, American rock climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson captivated the world with their effort to climb The Dawn Wall, a seemingly impossible 3,000 foot rock face in Yosemite National Park, California. The pair lived on the sheer vertical cliff for weeks, igniting a frenzy of global media attention. But for Tommy Caldwell, The Dawn Wall was much more than just a climb. It was the culmination of a lifetime defined by overcoming obstacles. At the age of 22, the climbing prodigy was taken hostage by rebels in Kyrgyzstan. Shortly after, he lost his index finger in an accident, but resolved to come back stronger. When his marriage fell apart, he escaped the pain by fixating on the extraordinary goal of free climbing The Dawn Wall. Blurring the line between dedication and obsession, Caldwell and his partner Jorgeson spent six years meticulously plotting and practicing their route. On the final attempt, with the world watching, Caldwell is faced with a moment of truth. Should he abandon his partner to fulfill his ultimate dream, or risk his own success for the sake of their friendship?
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“FREE SOLO” A FILM BY ELIZABETH CHAI VASARHELYI & JIMMY CHIN
TWO SCREENINGS — 6:30 P.M. & 9:00 P.M. EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER Award-winning documentary filmmaker E. Chai Vasarhelyi (MERU) and world-renowned photographer and mountaineer Jimmy Chin partner with National Geographic to produce a stunning, intimate and unflinching portrait of the free soloist climber Alex Honnold as he prepares to achieve his lifelong dream: climbing the face of the 3,000-foot El Capitan in Yosemite National Park— without a rope. Celebrated as one of the greatest athletic feats of any kind, Honnold’s climb set the ultimate standard, carving this epic ascent into the annals of human achievement. FREE SOLO is both an edge-of-your seat thriller and an inspiring portrait of an athlete who exceeded our current understanding of human physical and mental potential.
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ANNE GILBERT-CHASE + LOCAL LEGENDS WRAP PARTY PRESENTED BY PATAGONIA
$20 | 6:00 P.M. | EMERSON BALLROOM Local Legends Dinner & Wrap Party with a special guest and 2018 Piolet d’Or winner, Anne Gilbert-Chase. Presented by Patagonia. • Senior and Student Discounts. $20 admission or VIP Pass (limited seating for this high demand event) • Aprés-climb beverages by Bridger Brewing • Gourmet dinner • Presentation by Anne Gilbert-Chase on her ascent with Chantel Astroga of the Denali’s Slovak Direct, one of the hardest alpine routes in North America. • Presentation of the 2018 Guy Lacelle Hyalite Service Award by 2017 recipient Doug McCarthy. • Stoke Raffle Winner!
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ON-ICE CLINICS For more than two decades, Hyalite Canyon on-ice clinics have been the heart and soul of the Bozeman Ice Festival.
Our clinics take place in beautiful Hyalite Canyon just a few miles from downtown Bozeman. One of the premier locations in America, Hyalite provides a unique wilderness experience in the heart of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. Our clinics are the perfect opportunity to safely gain experience and learn from the best in the business.
HYALITE ADVANCED BASE CAMP
After a big day of climbing in Hyalite be sure to swing by the Black Diamond Advanced Base Camp, located in the Grotto Falls parking area. There’s nothing like the camaraderie of other climbers and a hot drink in your hands to take the chill off after a day on the ice. Make sure you take advantage of our Beacon Park and keep your beacon skills sharp—your partners will thank you! Come in and warm up, have a hot drink, swap stories, talk gear, and celebrate another great day in the mountains. BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2018
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CLINICS IN HYALITE Our full day clinics include demos of the best technical gear on the planet including boots, crampons, axes, harnesses, helmets and clothing, 5+ hours of on-ice instruction by world-class climbers, free VIP pass for in-town events, raffle tickets for the industry’s best gear giveaways.
CLINIC LOCATIONS The Bozeman Ice Festival holds full day clinics in Hyalite Canyon at the following areas: Genesis (G1 Wall)
Amphitheater
Mummy II & Scepter
Unnamed Wall
Hyalite Canyon has another 200+ ice and mixed routes within two miles of the parking lot for the climbing tribe to explore and enjoy all that Hyalite provides. All clinics leave the Black Diamond Equipment Advanced Base Camp at the end of the road in Hyalite at the Grotto Falls Parking Lot. Clinics generally run from 8:00am to 3:30pm.
Clinics are sold out—so what can I do? Every year there are a handful of no-shows or last second cancellations. Even if you are on a waiting list, please check in with us at the Emerson Ballroom the night before you want to participate in Hyalite Canyon. Local guide service Montana Alpine Guides also runs courses during the ice fest and all winter. Contact them at www.mtalpine.com.
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Swing some tools, make friends, try the latest and greatest gear, learn something new, and even change your life.
RETURNING DEMO GEAR Any demo gear you’ve checked out needs to be returned in the Hyalite parking area as soon as you are done climbing for the day. This is the best way for us to ensure the next group has access to the same great gear as you. Warm up in the Black Diamond Advanced Base camp and be sure to bring extra boots and warm jackets once you return your demo gear. We understand there are unexpected challenges or occassionally absent minds. But if gear is not returned to the Emerson Ballroom by 6:00pm every night, you will be charged a $50 late fee. Failure to return the gear by 7:00am the morning following your clinic, you will be charged the full retail price for the gear on your Rental Agreement Form.
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ON ICE INFO How do I get to my clinics in Hyalite Canyon? Parking is very limited in Hyalite Canyon. We strongly encourage you to car pool from Bozeman or the Park and Ride lot just 1.5 miles from the end of the road. Carpool information and sign ups can be found in the Emerson Ballroom each night.
Driving Directions From Main Street, go south on Highland Boulevard (near the Western Heritage Inn) or Willson Ave (one block from the Emerson) to Kagy Boulevard. Turn right (west) on Kagy and continue to 19th Street and turn left (south). Continue south on 19th to the edge of the mountains and the Hyalite Canyon Road (left) a half mile past an obvious 90-degree turn. Follow the Hyalite Canyon Road for 13.5 miles going around the reservoir to the end of the road, known as the Grotto Falls Parking Lot.
What time do I leave in the morning? The on-ice classes gather in Hyalite at 8:30am every day. We recommend you leave downtown Bozeman no later than 7:15 a.m. with 7:00 a.m. preferred. The road can be treacherous, and it is advised you take your time getting there. Accidents due to late folks rushing are not uncommon. The road is usually plowed (but not sanded due to watershed concerns) so a 2-wheel drive vehicle may be passable, but not advised. If unsure of the driving or conditions, please allow extra time.
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NOMIC & ERGONOMIC Photo © www.kalice.fr
Steep and steeper. The new NOMIC maintains its world-famous swing and excels at climbing steep ice. Crafted for swinging and hooking into delicate or mixed lines, the ERGONOMIC is the choice for those climbing steeper or overhanging terrain. Both tools feature an overmolded dual handle, adjustable GRIPREST, modular head, and hydroformed shaft. www.petzl.com
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Map Excerpt from Friends of Hyalite Winter Recreation Map, published in 20 2016 Oct
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2018
Nordic Ski Trail Groomed Intermittently Established groomed nordic ski trails. These are marked with blue ski trail markers or signs. Grooming may be infrequent. Fat Bikes NOT allowed. Trail Rating:
Easy
Moderate
Ice Climber Route No signs or indicators. May move from year to year and may come and go throughout the season. Ice Festival locations will be marked with a BIF Banner.
Designated Nordic Ski Route (Ungroomed) These are roads or hiking trails that are formally designated ski routes by the US Forest Service. They are marked with blue ski trail markers or signs. Fat Bikes and motorized travel is not allowed. Trail Rating:
Easy
Moderate
Facilities Parking Restrooms (open in winter) Forest Service Cabin (rental) Campground (closed in winter) Gate Recreation Areas Back Country Ski Area Nordic Skiing - groomed Ice Climbing Area
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BRIDGER BREWING
FIRST POUR THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 29 | 5:00 P.M.
BRIDGER BREWING TAPROOM
RAFFLES FROM EDELWEISS ROPES + MYSTERY RANCH + BRIDGER BREWING! FREE BEER TOKEN WITH EVERY MERCH/RAFFLE TICKET PURCHASED!
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Introducing the new Reactor Ice Tool With its open pick angle and leashless design, the Reactor is optimized for pure ice climbing. B LA C KDIAMONDEQUIP M E NT. CO M
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ADVENTURE FILM FESTIVAL
A
dventurers, artists, filmmakers and activists created and run this festival because we believe in the power of the story and especially the narrative of adventure, awakening to change and challenging the world we live in. Get ready to awaken your senses while exploring the beautiful mysteries of our universe through the craftsmanship of storytellers, artists, extreme athletes and adventurers.
BLOCK ONE – 10:00 A.M. Wild Ice
3 min
The Space Within
6 min
I am Here
5 min
Mirnavator
11 min
Choices
21 min
Near Miss
12 min
Feel of Vision
26 min
The Passage
25 min
Tales by Light
45 min
ONE BLOCK:
EVENT TICKETS Tickets are available online at bozemanicefest.com
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$15
BOTH BLOCKS:
$20
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2018
ADVENTURE FILM FESTIVAL TWO SCREENINGS 10:00 A.M & 1:30 P.M EMERSON CRAWFORD THEATER
BLOCK TWO – 1:30 P.M. A Letter to Congress
4 min
Katie
10 min
Climbing Out of Disaster
8 min
Surfer Dan
8 min
Brighter Night
5 min
Craig’s Reaction
25 min
RJ Ripper
19 min
Creek Sessions
7 min
Color of Change
20 min
Hold Fast
56 min TURN THE PAGE FOR FILM DETAILS...
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FILMS A LETTER TO CONGRESS
3:16 min Director: Christopher Newman A visual narration of Wallace Stegner’s 1960 “Letter to Congress.” As public lands become threatened across the country, Stegner’s words seem as prescient as ever.
CHOICES
20:29 min Director: Teresa Hoerl, Producer: Luz Marina Gennes, Mirjam Raymond, Melanie Schwier Steph Davis chooses passion. She quit law school in her early twenties to pursue climbing, ticking newsworthy ascents from Yosemite to Patagonia. While living in her car in Utah, she discovered her second calling: BASE jumping. Although she’s suffered many losses, Steph never regrets choosing an unconventional way of life—one full of extraordinary choices, where what seems to be a wrong decision at first can turn out to be the right one.
CLIMBING OUT OF DISASTER
8:31min Director: Dominic Gill, Producer: Nadia Gill In the hours after the devastating hurricanes of 2017, members of the Puerto Rican climbing community mobilized, joining forces to put their rope and outdoor skills to use. This short follows these amateur climbers as they help neighbors, clear trees and roads, and even solve “urban bouldering problems”—all amidst the disaster’s major search and rescue operations.
COLORS OF CHANGE
21:27 min Director/Producer: Jenny Nichols This film illustrates the intersection of art, culture and science in a region defined by climate change. It follows artist Zaria Forman as she returns to her homeland of Greenland, seeking the wisdom of NASA scientists, an Inuit elder, and her late mother. BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2018
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CRAIG’S REACTION
24:00 min Director: Cameron Maier, Producer: Matthew Hulet Since a 100–foot fall that took his right leg and left him with spinal injuries in 2002, Colorado climber Craig DeMartino has been undeterred in his adventure pursuits, bagging lauded First Disabled and In-A-Day Ascents on El Capitan. But—it is his day-today life that should be making the headlines.
CREEK SESSIONS
6:30 min Director: Tahria Sheather, Producer: Lindsey Hagen Artistic inspiration is often drawn from nature, and in Jessica Kilroy’s experience, the natural sounds of Indian Creek, UT provides the perfect recording studio- from the chorus of coyotes, to the strumming of yucca. “Creek Sessions” is an audial homage to one of the many wild areas currently under threat by natural resource extraction.
FEEL OF VISION
26:00 min Director: Tucker Gragg, Austin Gardner, Producer: Blueline Media, Kevin Weaver After losing his eyesight in a 1997, Lonnie Bedwell described his blindness as a wall that prevented him from living a full life, until he discovered kayaking— the door that opened back up the world for him. Later, he became the first blind kayaker to navigate the Grand Canyon in a solo kayak. Today, Lonnie spends his time engaging fellow blind paddlers in the spray and white foam of the Ohioplye and Yellowstone wilderness—leading them to that doorway, so that they too can create their own vision of the life ahead.
HOLD FAST
54:40 min Director: Jim Aikman Conrad Anker is one of the greatest and most notorious professional mountain climbers in history. But at 54, his career in the big mountains is winding down, especially after suffering a heart attack on a climb high in the Himalayas in 2016. His friend Alex Wildman is a novice big-wall climber and cardiac nurse who recently recovered from stage 4 lymphoma and intense chemotherapy. With new perspectives on life, both are eager to return to the mountains. Together, they team up to support each other on returning to a longtime favorite: El Capitan. On its iconic granite walls, they both seek to put their traumatic brushes with mortality in the past. BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2018
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I AM HERE
4:30 min Director/Producer: Nick Edwards Kate examines the complexities of her roles as a snow scientist, an individual and an athlete. Longs Peak serves as the ultimate mental and physical playground in her exploration of balance.
KATIE
9:43 min Director: Ben Knight In 1953, Hollywood starlet and folk singer Katie Lee embarked on her first of many river trips through the Grand Canyon. From that moment, until her passing last November, her life was shaped by a duty to protect the beauty of those canyon walls, and she became a passionate activist against the damming of the Colorado River. “Katie” is a tribute film, honoring the life of a champion for places untouched by mankind.
NEAR MISS
11:30 min Director/Producer: Josh Berry This beautiful, meditative story takes us swimming with Great Whites along with a diver who is at peace with the incredible risks that he takes.
SURFER DAN
7:44 min Director: Tim Kemple Producer: Stevie Meier, Camp4 Collective For the intrepid surfing communities around the shores of Lake Superior, the words of local Dan Schetter say it all: “It’s dangerous. It’s not like some clean, perfect ocean wave you stand up and come out of. There’s ice chunks falling on my head…. It’s a race … to get to the wave before the ice fills in.”
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TALES BY LIGHT 3
44:47 min Director/Producer: Abraham Joffe ACS Shawn is an Emmy Award-winning cinematographer, photographer and marine conservationist. Recognizing that people only protect what they love, he is on a mission to capture inspiring and dramatic imagery that connects the global community to the beauty and vulnerability of threatened marine species.
THE MIRNAVATOR
11:06 min Director: Sarah Menzies “I love my body the most when I am out running. Even if it’s hard, and even if I’m having a bad day. . . . I know I have my body, and it works, and I feel really strong and powerful. And in that, I feel beautiful.” –Mirna Valerio
THE PASSAGE
25:00 min Dir.: Nate Dappen, Producer: Nate Dappen, Neil Losin 1974 was a year of legend for the Dappens: the young couple built their own canoes, launched them from Washington, and became some of the first people to paddle the Inside Passage to Alaska. Not surprisingly, tales of this voyage later captured their sons’ imaginations. In 2017, the Dappens sought to recreate the adventure as a family—renovating those old canoes, and retracing their 1974 route.
RJ RIPPER
19:25 min Director: Joey Schusler, Aidan Haley, Ben Page. Producer: Joey Schusler, Mandil Pradhan Kids and bikes—wherever you are in the world, they go together. The streets of Kathmandu may not seem like a typical breeding ground for world-class mountain bikers, but then again nothing is typical about Rajesh (RJ) Magar. From learning to ride on a self-constructed clunker, to becoming a four-time Nepalese national champion by age 21, RJ’s story is one of childhood dreaming and unstoppable determination, forged from junkyard scraps and tested on the rugged trails of the mighty Himalaya.
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THE SPACE WITHIN
5:28 min Director: Frank Pickell, Producer: Dan Benshoff, Stephan Drake Exploring the tidepools of a deserted tropical beach, a young boy finds a mysterious treasure washed up on the rocks. It whispers of another world, holding magic unlike anything he has seen before.
WILD ICE
3:00 min Produced by: Paxson Woelber and Cale Green First tracks are always an allure for those who partake in winter sports. To the backcountry ice-skating community, it’s no different. Filmed across Southern Alaska, “Wild Ice” showcases figure skaters, speed skaters and hockey players in their native element: ice caves, mountain lakes and glacial lagoons.
BRIGHTER NIGHT
5:16 min Dir.: Director: Jordan Halland, Producers: Jordan Halland, Alan Gordon, Luke Webster Filmmaker Jordan Halland and his team head into Alaska’s Mendenhall Glacier to capture ice climbing in a new light. Filmed entirely at night in sub-arctic temperatures, “Brighter Night” is the result.
Come enjoy a pint! Every night from 5:30 - 7PM in the Emerson Ballroom
AMERICAN PALE ALE The Hyalite APA has a beautiful hazy, golden hue and a clean crisp malt character that supports a strong hop profile of tropical fruit, floral earthiness and subtle spice notes. THE CLOSEST BEER TO HYALITE – 1609 S. 11th AVE. | #CLIMBERSLOVEBEER
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OFFICIAL LUNCH OF BOZEMAN ICE FEST GUIDES
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ICE FEST STORIES:
LISA VERWYS Lisa Verwys is an ice climber, back-country skier, and trail runner who lives in Bozeman, Montana. She learned to ice climb at the Bozeman Ice Festival and is an active member of the outdoor community as well as the Registrar & Collections Manager for the Museum of the Rockies. What year did you take a clinic? Which clinic did you take? My first clinic was in December 2010 and I took Intro to Ice Climbing on Friday, which was “women’s day.” I’ve taken several clinics since then, including Women’s Intermediate Ice, Leaving the Nest, and Mixed Master. At the time (2010), I don’t think that the Ice Fest had any backpack demos- or maybe I just didn’t see the packs! So when I got all my fun demo gear home I realized that I didn’t own a backpack big enough to carry everything- all I had was a tiny mountain biking pack. I ended up borrowing a Jansport backpack at the last minute from a friend, and that’s how I carried all my gear up to G1. Did it all fit? Not really. Did I look totally ridiculous? Yes. Did anyone care? Nope! The other memorable gear mishap from my first day was that I didn’t have any idea of how to layer, and I didn’t know that I needed a big warm puffy for standing around. So I basically froze all day and yet I still came back for more. Did you have any ice climbing experience beforehand? I had never ice climbed! I had just moved to Bozeman about 7 months prior. I grew up in southwest Michigan so my only winter
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sport was downhill skiing. But I love winter and it sounded like a great opportunity to try something new without having to invest in any gear. What drew you to ice climbing? Honestly I just thought it looked really amazing. The idea that people could climb frozen waterfalls had never even crossed my mind, although now I know that people climb in Michigan. I figured even if I hated it, at least I could say I tried it. What did you take away from the Women’s clinic? Really sore arms and back muscles! Just a quick plug here- I love, love, love the women’s clinics. I mostly climb with men throughout the season but there is something really special and really supportive about being out surrounded by women. I have taken mixed gender BIF clinics and those are also a blast, but the learning environment is totally different and amazing on women’s day. Mostly what I took away from the first day was a basic understanding of how to not totally flail around on the ice and a drive to figure out how I could find a way to meet more climbers & do more ice climbing.
What is your favorite climb in Hyalite? Oh lord, can anyone answer this question? I’m a fan of the Matrix, Champagne Sherbet, and Silken Skein. I’d like to try Horsetail Falls again—I was up there once but it wasn’t quite in shape enough for us to feel comfortable climbing it. After the clinic what did your climbing progression look like? My first season I only climbed twice, but by the next season I had started dating an ice climber (I am a total Bozeman dating cliche,
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I know) and since I could borrow a lot of his gear, I started climbing quite a bit more and slowly started buying gear. I invested in my own boots in 2011 but didn’t get tools until 2012, or crampons until 2013. Anyway, I spent the first few seasons working on technique and getting comfortable being on ice, reading ice, understanding how ice changes over the course of a season & based on the weather. I started leading in 2013 (my first lead was on Upper Green Sleeves), and since then I’ve still been working on being comfortable on lead and also being a good partner when seconding. I still only lead up to WI3+, but I’m usually able to follow up to WI 4+/5. In the past few years I’ve really started to enjoy the challenge of mixed climbing. What keeps you climbing? The same thing that drew me to climbing in the first place- I think ice climbing is the most aesthetically beautiful sport. I love coming around a corner and seeing a huge flow of blue or green ice. And I also love how the cold can turn small seeps into big climbs- it’s like a hidden world opens up in the winter. I also like to set goals each winter for climbing- usually a new climb to lead and also a “push your limits” type of goal, like trying a tougher mixed climb or a steeper or more sustained ice climb. Tell us about your Live Your Dream grant project last year? Any future projects you want to share? That was actually my second LYD grant- the AAC has been generous to me! The first grant I received was to climb Granite Peak- and that money actually bought me my ice climbing rope. This last grant was to attempt a back-country ski traverse north to south through Yellowstone. We unfortunately got stopped by a pretty intense winter storm about 20 miles in to our trip, with over a week of -30 to -50 degree weather, huge amounts of new snow, and high winds. After being stuck for several days, we had to abandon our attempt (unfortunately when you work full-time, you can’t always wait out the weather!), but we have it on our radar to try again someday. I’m almost always scheming some new outdoor project. I don’t always succeed at them, but it’s fun to get out there and try. I haven’t come up with a 2019 project yet, but there are some skiing & climbing objectives in the Tetons that I’ve had my eye on, so 2019 may be the year of the Tetons!
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Any advice for beginners looking to get into the sport? Take a clinic! Seriously. They’re super fun and you learn a ton right away. I also think it’s good to remember that you can make do with a lot of re-purposed or older gear for a while as you’re getting into the sport. Ice climbing is expensive, but you don’t need the newest tools or crampons or a whole new outerwear wardrobe. You can wear ski boots and your insulated snow pants (but be warned that you will snag ‘em with your crampons). I would not recommend carrying a Jansport, but if that’s what you’ve got then go for it! How can we follow along with your adventures? You can find me on instagram at @verwys - and if anyone wants to go on an adventure, I’m open to that too!
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A NOTE FROM JOJO
Photo by Claudia Lopez
M
ore than two decades ago, Barry Blanchard and I drove from Canada to present and teach at the Bozeman Ice Festival. Little did I know that two years later I would be back working Ice Fest as a sales rep for Patagonia. Nor did I dream in 2006 I would become a Director in a re-organized Fest that helped keep the road open from a winter closure. Together, the community not only secured public land access but negotiated a unique collaboration with the Forest Service and the County to have it plowed. This one feat has allowed the Ice Fest to grow and evolve into all that it is today. Ice Fest started some of the first women-only clinics in the country. These have continued to flourish with women of every age inspired by role models and new heroes. This year, Ice Fest is proudly supporting queer friendly clinics taught by some of the most accomplished ice climbers anywhere, who happen to be transgender. For more than two decades we’ve been bringing the biggest names and emerging pioneers of the sport to Bozeman and we pulled off Olympic-caliber competitions. To date we’ve raised over $31,000 that has gone directly for road plowing. There are folks that learned to ice climb with us who are now teaching them. We’ve gone generational. It’s in that spirit Ice Fest continues to evolve. In September we hired a new Festival Director, Kevin Dean. A longtime volunteer and active ice climber, Kevin brings new skills and fresh capacity to compliment our deep bench of long-time sponsors, veteran staff and committed volunteers. Ice Fest is well-suited to continue to live up to our motto as the “First Best Fest” of the winter season.
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Stepping down as Director doesn’t mean I’m going very far. Hopefully you’ll see me in Hyalite a little more often and as Board President I look to a future on how we can effectively support and advocate for winter climbing in Hyalite but also beyond. Stay tuned or drop me a line if you want to help. But above all, I want to thank you. Serving as Director of the Bozeman Ice Festival for the past twelve years has been one of the great privileges of my life. Joe Josephson
WINTER WINTER‘18-’19 ‘18-’19
ICEICECLIMBING CLIMBINGBASICS BASICS ADVANCED ICE ADVANCED ICE LADIES LADIESICE ICECLINICS CLINICS AVALANCHE EDUCATION AVALANCHE EDUCATION BACKCOUNTRY BACKCOUNTRYTOURING TOURING
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SHARE THE STOKE Catch a great moment in the canyon? Something too good to believe at the Emerson? Share it with the Bozeman Ice Festival community with the hashtags #bozemanicefest and #bif22. Check out our Instagram feed @bozemanicefest!
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WOMEN’S
Ouray Ice Gloves
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NASA developed insulation, award winning OR glove design, never having the screaming barfies again… PRODUCT AVAILABLE FOR DEMO AT THE EMERSON CENTER FOR ARTS
AMBASSADOR SARAH HUENIKEN
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2018
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CHECK MTAVALANCHE.COM BEFORE YOU GO JOIN THE EMAIL LIST FOR DAILY UPDATES
START YOUR ADVENTURE AT
TREELINE COFFEE NOW BREWING IN TWO BOZEMAN LOCATIONS 624 N WALLACE + 139 WEST MAIN OPEN DAILY 6AM - 5PM OR ORDER ONLINE ANYTIME AT W W W.T R E E L I N ECO F F E E .CO M
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2018
ONLY
200 TICKETS SOLD
THE
STOKE PACKAGE
Outfit yourself for a lifetime of ice climbing from Black Diamond. Featuring everything you need to be an ice climber— from clothing to gear!
PLUS FREE ENTRY to the clinic of your choice at BIF24 in 2019.
Final drawing Sunday @9pm. Do not need to be present to win present.
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2018
STAFF Kevin Dean Dana Weller Matt Hopkins Rachel Johnston Brittany Simpkins-Merhens Travis Russell Seth Neilson Abi Devan Wendy Christie Adam Knoff Dr. Alan Oram
FESTIVAL DIRECTOR EVENT COORDINATOR HYALITE COORDINATOR REGISTRATION COORDINATOR VOLUNTEER COORDINATOR MERCHANDISE COORDINATOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR WEB GURU HR DIRECTOR LEAD GUIDE LEAD GUIDE
HYALITE GUIDES Lindsay Fixmer, Dave Stimson, Dane Christianson, Nadav Oakes, Nina Hance, Loren Rausch, Austin Hart, Blair Speed, Taylor Lais, Tyler Sweeney, Chase Nelson
GUIDES EMERITUS Clark Alexis, Mike Cooperstein, Rich Searle
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL FOUNDERS Joel Lee, Barrel Mountaineering, Greg Caracciolo, Northern Lights Trading Co.
ICE CLIMBING ALLIANCE BOARD OF DIRECTORS Joe Josephson, Scott Lawson, Dirk Tyler
SPECIAL THANKS Doug Chabot, Chris Lohss, Michael Spears, Richard Galli, City of Bozeman, Rich Bennett, Renee Stevens, Susan DensonGuy, Conrad Anker, Dr. Stephen Halvorson, GCSAR, Jose Yavari, Sarah Leone, Alex Kutches, Liz O’Brien, Allison Allen, Christian Folk, Rhett Clevenger, Tyler Jones, Kjersti Christensen, Matt Lewis, Lisa Stoeffler, Wendi Urie, Matthew Beehler, Julie Brewster, Lisa Sebena, Sarah Fournier, Elizabeth Kay Bowers, Karin Mullendorff, Jill Brewster, Jess Powell, Everett Russell, Tom Livingstone, Anne Gilbert-Chase, Jeff Shapiro, Richard Bailey, Spencer Schuman, Albert McDonald, and so many more.
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A HUGE THANK YOU TO OUR
SPONSORS T
he Bozeman Ice Festival would not be possible without the generous commitment of the following organizations. Not only do they make the best gear and clothing on the planet, they make your climbing safer, more enjoyable, and they contribute an incredible amount behind the scenes to our event and Hyalite Canyon.
PRESENTING SPONSOR
SUPPORTING SPONSORS
CONTRIBUTING SPONSORS
COMMUNITY SPONSORS
ROPE SUPPLIER BEVERAGE SPONSOR COFFEE SUPPLIER
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BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2018
MUMMY IV
MUMMY IV — Rachel Ainuu Rachel Ainuu is a Bozeman Mt. based artist who enjoys painting the surrounding mountains and landscapes. If she’s not climbing or skiing them, she’s probably painting them. She is especially fond of the ice formations in Hyalite canyon and enjoys translating the beauty of these flows into water color paintings.
SEE YOU NEXT YEAR
DEC. 11-15, 2019 BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2018
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FOR A DEALER NEAR YOU CALL 1-888.90.CLIMB 48
BOZEMAN ICE FESTIVAL 2018