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Le French Café’s Agnes and Quentin Garrigou on casual French food by Matt Cortina
Agnes and Quentin Garrigou, the husband-wife owners of Boulder’s Le French Café, grew up around food. For, they are French. “Food is so important,” Agnes says. “Like me and my family keeping for five hours at the table, you get outside and walk and come back and eat again. ... Don’t do Christmas with French people, you will not go to bed before 3 a.m.”
Agnes remembers her dad catching rabbits in their countryside home in the Alps outside Chamonix. He cured meat in the basement, Agnes’ mother cooked sausage with cabbage.
“The smell, I still have everything in my head,” she says. “When I was young, people used to do everything by themselves.”
Fortunately, Agnes and Quentin (who serves as head chef) use a lot of those recipes at Le French Café. Sandwiches, quiches, salads, pastries and select entrees are born from their
experiences growing up and eating throughout France. What makes Le French Café a gem, though, is the casual, vibrant atmosphere inside the restaurant — colorful décor, families sharing meals, French speakers all around — and the accessibility of the cuisine, both in cost and in form.
“We really wanted a place where people could come and feel comfortable. It’s simple food... it’s what we were eating when we were young,” Agnes says. “Most of our customers love our food, but some people still don’t understand why we’re not having truffles or foie gras. But in France we don’t eat that every day. We wanted to show people you can eat simple, good food.
“If you put butter inside, everything is good,” she adds, laughing.
Agnes and Quentin moved to the U.S. 10 years ago, settling in Florida for a time. But Boulder, similar in climate to Agnes’ Alpine upbringing, was always on their radar. When the chance to open a restaurant came up they jumped at the chance.
Now they, and their young son, are using the restaurant to build a community.
“For us, it’s like we are not at work, we are at home, because we have no family than us here so our customers become a little bit of family,” Agnes says. “I know it’s cheesy to say that but it’s the truth. It’s just we are so alone in America because we are just the three of us. We build our own family with our business and our customers.” Agnes gives back to that community not only through her and Quentin’s food and restaurant, but through spreading goodwill. She’s embraced what she recognized as a uniquely American positivity, and she goes out of her way to share it.
“I believe in kindness,” she says. “You can see somebody on the street, a customer, who just changed her haircut... you can tell her she’s beautiful and it makes her day. It’s so important to do it. Where we live right now, what we are right now... it’s important to be kind to each other.”
T h u r sd ay
QUENTIN AND AGNES GARRIGOU weren’t able to take everything from their French culinary upbringings to the U.S.
“Like rabbits,” Agnes says. “You never find rabbits in America. When you raise rabbits in a good way, it’s so good — the texture, everything... But when we moved to America, we would go to the store and ask for it and they would look at us like we were crazy people.”
Quentin says he misses France’s regional charcuterie — rillettes (cured fatty pork) from his native Loire Valley — and fresh, funky cheeses that lose their, well, freshness and funkiness when shipped overseas. He reminisces about the simple pleasure of fresh blood sausage with potatoes and apples.
Foie gras is also becoming less available in the U.S., compared to France, at least. One meat that’s no longer available (easily) in either country? Horse. Agnes remembers horse-specific butcher shops in Paris, and
seeing horse tartare on menus, heralded because horse meat was supposedly the healthiest meat.
“We tried to ask for that in a store in America, I think they were almost putting us to jail,” Agnes says.
Agnes says any changes from original, family recipes on the menu of Le French Café were made mostly because of a lack of access to traditional ingredients, though substitutions for flavor have been made.
“We have some stuff we had to change like the vinaigrette; we make it a little thicker, and we put onions inside, so it’s a little American but it’s still pretty French. The salads don’t taste the same; it’s more earthy in France than here... I think because here the salad you buy is in big quantity.
“But the duck confit we do tastes exactly like in France,” Agnes says. Check out the recipe on the next page.
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Duck Confit from Agnes and Quentin Garrigou of Le French Café
CHEF QUENTIN GARRIGOU offers a traditional take on duck confit, a classic French dish made from cooking duck meat slowly in its rendered fat. He uses simple seasoning in this recipe, as is traditional, but says you can add herbs (rosemary and thyme) before submerging in fat, and recommends serving with something sweet (say, a red wine reduction or fresh fruit). Recipe can be scaled up — you just need enough duck fat (which you can by canned in stores) to submerge the meat.
2 duck legs with thighs attached 2-4 cups (approx.) duck fat salt pepper
1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees 2. Salt and pepper duck, and place skin-side down on high-rimmed baking sheet. 3. Submerge duck meat in duck fat 4. Bake for 4 1/2 hours 5. Remove duck from oven and place tray (or transfer to smaller plate) in refrigerator.
6. After fat congeals in refrigerator (8-24 hours), heavily salt the skin-side of the duck and sear on grill. Reserve the fat for other cooking purposes. 7. Serve whole or shave with knife.
TRY IT: If homemade duck confit sounds too daunting for your kitchen, Le French Café serves it several ways. At dinner, try the duck confit salad — leg and thigh prepared as above are set atop fresh strawberries, walnuts, bacon, sautéed mushrooms and raisins. It’s all drizzled with a red wine reduction.
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Butter Up Butterfat regains its rightful throne at a bar in Lyons By JOHN LEHNDORFF
If it came down to choosing my final bite on this planet, I would be happy to taste bread and butter. That said, it would have to be a yeasty, crusted loaf and real fresh butter with a sprinkle of flaky salt. There is something soul satisfying and sigh-worthy about that iconic combination.
Butter has suffered some serious hard times PR-wise over the past few decades with attacks coming from the anti-fat, vegan and green critics. Now that butterfat has been rebranded as a healthy “good” fat, it’s staging a major comeback despite the rise of “plant-based butter”... formerly known as “margarine.” Butter also has new champion, Shauna Lee Strecker. She opened Bella La Crema as the world’s first butter bar in a small storefront in Lyons. At the 18-month-old shop and eatery, bread and butter is Strecker’s bread and butter. Other Boulder County food spots serve flights of wines, whiskies or craft ciders. Bella La Crema dishes flights of butter.
This unlikely business is the talk of the national and international press with stories in Australia, the U.K. and Germany as well as the Times of India and Food & Wine. Strecker and her crew add cultures to organic, grass-fed, low-heat pasteurized, non-homogenized fresh cream and churn it into butter. Yogurt-like cultures result in a higher-fat, silkier and richer-tasting product plus probiotic-rich buttermilk.
“Real butter is alive, full of nutrients and flavors. A lot of the butter on the shelf at supermarkets is dead,” Strecker says, noting the way most butter is processed.
Butter has been on her mind since she was growing up in Denver. “One of my first food memories was in kindergarten. We passed around a big jar full of cream and shook it. I was fascinated by the metamorphosis of cream into butter and buttermilk. I’ll never forget the taste of that butter on an unsalted matzoh cracker,” Strecker says.
In the years to come she would experiment with making truffle butter as a Christmas present. In 2012 she found herself with two gallons from a raw cow milk share and discovered the bliss of fresh cultured butter. She started making compound butter with diverse ingredients and found customers excited about it.
“That’s when I thought: ‘I’m going to make butter great again,’” she says. Strecker opened Bella La Crema as a café and production space for churning butter in September 2018.
Up to 20 evocatively named, seasoned compound butters are on the menu at a time including Ode to Neruda (paprika, garlic, onions and lime), What Lola Wants (ghost pepper, honey and oregano) and Monet’s Garden (lavender, vanilla, rose and nutmeg). When I stopped in to visit, I ordered a flight of flavors and a warm baguette but made sure it included the right stuff straight from the churner: plain cultured butter. The taste difference is remarkable but hard to describe. It’s fresher, richer, cleaner, tastier and more buttery. I also enjoyed a mug of coffee with an invigorating slick of Mayan Chocolate Muse: butter with chocolate, coffee, cinnamon and cayenne.
Bella La Crema is a tiny place with a handful of tables that has a huge takeout and online business. But it’s also becoming a foodie daytrip destination.
Strecker’s handwritten paper menu each day features simple, French-inspired breakfast and lunch and dishes including pastries, quiche, French onion soup, buttermilk waffles and a breakfast soufflé.
Customers use the compound butter to scramble eggs, sauté vegetables and gnocchi, and to top grilled chicken, steaks and fish. Strecker also makes ghee (clarified butter) and an exquisite dessert sauce of brown butter ghee, sugar and vanilla bean. “I store gallons of frozen buttermilk to make cornbread and marinate chicken. People who grew up drinking it drive a long way to pick up real buttermilk,” she says. The butter business is getting big. Strecker and crew have been churning 230 pounds of milk at a time, but she says she just bought an even bigger churner to help meet demand.
Evidence of butter’s revival can be seen at restaurants like Chimera, where lobster is butter-poached before topping ramen. At Beleza Coffee Bar, Keto fans look for “bullet-proof” butter-topped coffee. You can find high butterfat French and Irish butters, rolled butters and organic cultured butter on the shelf. Boulder’s Fireworks Finishing butters and Denver’s chef-run Epicurean make first class butters popular for professionals. But only Bella La Crema makes it from scratch. CHECK OUT SHAUNA LEE STRECKER’S fresh butter concoctions at Bella La Crema, 405 Main Street, Lyons
WORDS TO CHEW ON
“It can be exhausting eating a meal cooked by a man. With a woman, it’s, Ho hum, pass the beans. A guy? You have to act like he just built the Taj Mahal.” — Deb Caletti, The Queen of Everything John Lehndorff hosts Radio Nibbles on KGNU (kgnu.org). Comments: nibbles@boulderweekly.com
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Dear Dan: I’m a 31-year-old cis bisexual woman. I’m hetero-romantic and in a monogamish relationship with a man. We play with other people together. I’ve never liked giving blowjobs because I was taught that girls who give blowjobs are “sluts.” Phrases that are meant to be insulting like “You suck,” “Suck it,” “Go suck a dick,” etc. created a strong association in my mind between blowjobs and men degrading women. (Men take what they want, and women get used and called sluts.) As such, I never sucked much dick — and if I did, it was only briefly and never to completion. I also find spit and come kind of gross. Even when I get really wet during sex, it’s a bit of a turnoff, and I hate that it makes me feel gross and wish I could change my thinking around it. Early in our relationship, my husband noticed the lack of blowjobs and confronted me, saying they were really important to him. At first I felt a little insecure about being inadequate in this area, but then I decided to do some research, because I honestly thought it wasn’t just me and most women don’t like giving blowjobs. (Because how could they? It’s so demeaning!) But I learned lots of my female friends enjoy giving blowjobs — they like being in control, giving a partner pleasure, etc. — so I googled ways to start liking blowjobs and I’ve started to get into them! It’s great! Except I still don’t like when he comes in my mouth or if a blowjob gets super spitty. But my husband loves sloppy blowjobs; he says the lubrication feels good and he enjoys the “dirtiness” of it. If I know he’s getting close to coming or if it gets super wet and I have spit all over my face, my gag reflex activates and it’s hard to continue. I feel like I’m at an impasse. I want to give him the blowjobs he wants, but I don’t know how to get around (or hopefully start enjoying!) the super-sloppy-through-to-completion blowjobs he likes. Do you have any advice?
—Sloppy Oral Always Keeps Erections Drenched Dear SOAKED: You play with other people together, SOAKED, but have you tried observing — by which I mean actively observing, by which I mean actually participating — while your husband gets a sloppy blowjob from someone who really enjoys giving them? If someone else was blowing your husband while you made out with him or sat on his face or played with his tits or whatever might enhance the experience for him… and you watched another woman choke that dick down… you might come to appreciate what’s in it for the person giving the sloppy blowjob.
Most people who were taught that girls who give blowjobs are sluts were also taught that open relationships are wrong and women who have sex with other women are going to hell. You got over what you were taught about monogamish relationships and being bisexual years ago, SOAKED, and recently got
over what you were taught about women who enjoy sucking cock. While some people have physical limitations they can’t overcome — some gag reflexes are unconquerable — watching someone enjoy something you don’t can make you want to experience it yourself.
But even if your observations don’t trigger a desire to get down there and get sloppy and swallow his load yourself, your husband would be getting the kind of blowjobs he enjoys most and you would be an intrinsic part of them. If you set up the date, you’d be making them happen, even if you weren’t doing them. And if you were into the scenario and/or the other woman — if the whole thing got you off, not just off the hook — then there would be something in it for you, too.
And take it from me, SOAKED, to be kissed with both passion and gratitude by, say, a husband (ahem) who’s really enjoying something someone else is doing for/to him — whether or not that something is something you also enjoy doing for/to him from time to time — is really fucking hot. So even if you never come around — even if sloppy blowjobs are something you have to outsource permanently — you and your husband can enjoy years of sloppy blowjobs together, with the assistance of a series of very special (and very slutty) guest stars. And you can always get those blowjobs started — the non-sloppy, nonspitty initial phase — before passing the baton off to your guest star.
On the Lovecast, all things weed with Lester Black: savagelovecast.com.
Send emails to mail@savagelove.net, follow Dan on Twitter @FakeDanSavage and visit ITMFA.org. BY DAN SAVAGE
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Seattle cannabis businesses may start getting their deliveries via drone by Seymour
Come March, Seattleites could see marijuana-toting drones flying over the Emerald City.
Before you get too excited, no, they won’t be delivering to residential homes; this is a business-to-business marijuana delivery service for wholesalers, processors, dispensaries
and grow operations. The hope is that drone-based delivery will reduce cost of transportation, cut down on greenhouse gas emissions and provide another layer of security for marijuana businesses.
The buzz around drone delivery started in December when Bellevue, Washington-based GRN Holdings announced its intent to purchase Squad Drone (also a Washington-based company) to launch a delivery drone program by licensing the company’s drones and technology to state-registered hemp and cannabis companies. “We’ve been in the industry for a while and we’ve seen the inefficiencies that transportation has brought to the industry, from Sprinter vans to insurance charging three times the market rate, or the fact that you have to pay people quite a bit of money to deliver [and] vans that sit in traffic for
hours on end in places like Seattle or San Francisco,” Justin Costello, CEO of GRN Holdings, told Leafly in a Feb. 20 article. “[All] this hikes up the costs [of delivering cannabis] more than two to three times than for an average deliverable … We saw an ability to purchase this technology that’s definitely a market disruptor.”
GRN and Squad Drone had been conducting testing and customization for about a year before they announced the acquisition. The program will launch in March, if all goes according to plan, with a fleet of just six drones that are capable of carrying a payload of up to 40 kilograms (about 88 pounds) each. The drones have a delivery range of 10 kilometers (about six miles). Each drone will be equipped with a GPS navigation system and will be flown by licensed drone pilots from a command center in Seattle. An onboard iPad installed with CannaTrac’s cashless payment system will allow for closed loop payments, which is a pretty big safety feature for an industry that has been shut out of the federal banking system. Currently, states with regulated marijuana — like Colorado and Washington — use fleets of vans
to deliver products and cash between marijuana businesses. Outfitting these vans with security systems and climate controls (which can cost tens of thousands of dollars), as well as insuring the vans, paying the drivers and fueling is pretty expensive. “Logistics and security are a large cost to the industry,” GRN said in a statement. “We expect to remove about 80% of costs, increase delivery timelines/safety, and develop a more eco-sensitive process for getting product from point A to point B. The drones are battery operated but have a hybrid system that acts to recharge and extend flight times if needed. … We expect hiring about 20 employees in the various cities to hook the drones into charge ports, calibrate them, and ensure the safety totes and computer systems pass flight requirements.”
But here’s the thing: Transporting cannabis by air is still prohibited by the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA). According to the Washington Business Journal, GRN has asked the U.S. Department of Transportation and the FAA for several exemptions from federal law and regulations. Whether those exemptions have been granted or not is unclear.
GRN CEO Costello told Leafly his company is “putting that off to the people we license or franchise the technology to.”
Sure sounds like a CEO who’s ready to take full responsibility for the consequences of his company’s disruptive technology…
With FAA roadblocks, limited payload carries and a range of only six miles, it’s pretty clear drones won’t be replacing van fleets anytime soon. But it is a sign that the cannabis industry will continue to push the boundaries of how business in America is conducted.
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If you’re high, Clark’s the guy By Paul Danish
Tippecanoe and Tyler Too” is so 1840.
For 2020 try, “If you get high, Clark’s your guy.”
Especially if you happen to live in Chicago. Last November, Anthony Clark, who’s running for Congress in Illinois’ 7th Congressional District, smoked pot in one of his campaign ads. And last week, according to Marijuana Moment, he threw the first-ever “congressional weed party.”
“We just wanted to do something different,” Clark said in a video of the event.
Clark, an Air Force vet, is running in a predominantly Black district that includes parts of the South and West sides of Chicago. He’s in a primary against incumbent Democratic Representative Danny Davis, who’s represented the district since the late 1990s.
Clark says he started using marijuana in high school but rediscovered it as an adult after being injured in a Seattle shooting. He says pot helps him cope with anxiety and post-traumatic stress.
His platform includes legalizing marijuana at the federal level, expunging criminal convictions and reparations to drug war victims.
“I think I have to be… open about my cannabis use because lying to individuals, I think, plays a direct role in enabling status quo, in enabling the oppressors, the top 1%, to remain,” he said in the video. “I don’t hide this at all. I tell people on a daily basis, cannabis saved my life. It continues to save my life.”
Clark is not a one-issue candidate. He is a selfdeclared Democratic Socialist, and the extensive campaign platform on his website comes straight from Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez and Bernie Sanders.
And he seems to be getting some traction. Two weeks ago, the Chicago Sun-Times endorsed him. Clark may be onto something with canna-themed
campaign events. Maybe the next step is to take a page out of old Tippecanoe’s (aka William Henry Harrison’s) playbook. Harrison’s successful 1840 campaign is famously known as “The Log Cabin Campaign” and “The Hard Cider Campaign.”
Seems that one of the ways Harrison’s supporters drummed up support for the candidate was by building mobile log cabins on ox-carts, which were driven from town-to-town where campaign workers served hard cider to potential voters.
The concept could be easily updated with a camper and a fistful of pre-rolls. With campaign events starting at 4:20 p.m. of course.
• • • • According to Arizona Marijuana News, an industry website, some Republican lawmakers in the state legislature believe a recreational marijuana legalization initiative that’s currently being petitioned onto the state ballot is going to win — and that they need to have a Plan B.
Plan B in this case is to pass their own recreational marijuana legalization bill in the legislature. That way they will have the power to amend it (or gut it, maybe) in the future.
“I think the legislature needs to accept the fact that
the initiative is going to pass,” said Rep. Travis Grantham.
The initiative in question, the cannabis industry-backed Safe and Smart Arizona Act, would legalize use, possession, and cultivation of pot and authorize state-regulated sales with a 16% excise tax. Pretty similar to Colorado’s legalization scheme, in other words.
The initiative’s backers need 237,645 signatures to put it on the November ballot. They already have 100,000 and hope to hand in 400,000 by the July 2 deadline.
Although the initiative is for a statute instead of a constitutional amendment, Arizona has a clause in its constitution called the Voter Protection Act, which says that the legislature needs a two-thirds supermajority to change a voter-approved law. Thus, Plan B. And there is a Plan C as well. Two weeks ago a state Senate committee approved a proposal, presumably a proposed state constitutional amendment, that would gut the Voter Protection Act.
Whether either Plan B or Plan C has enough support to cross the finish line is questionable to say the least. But the fact that they are being considered means Plan A, the Safe and Smart Arizona Act, is looking like a winner.
• • • • When Michigan stated legal recreational sales on Jan. 1, one of the first dispensaries to open was the ReLEAF Center in Niles, Michigan — which is just over the Michigan-Indiana state line. Indiana is one of the drug war dead-ender states still refusing to consider any form of marijuana legalization.
Last week a TV crew from WTHR, an Indianapolis TV station, visited the dispensary. They found that 19 of the 26 cars in the parking lot had Indiana license plates.
Quell surprise.
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JANUARY IS WELLNESS MONTH! CELEBRATE ALL MONTH LONG! With specials from your favorite BWC wellness brands.
Boulder’s Finest Boulder’s Finest Cannabis ExperienceCannabis Experience LIVE RESIN SALE $15-$25/GRAM B-GRADE
* Not too bad! b-grade Flower $8o Ounce Specials Half ounce flower specials
2 half gram joints for $5! *
Life is Better at The Farm
*Select strains only. All oers while supplies last. Additional restrictions may apply. Prices do not include tax. 21+ Recreational only.
