Wine Region Profile: Scrutinizing the Sonoma Coast AVA By Charlie Leary Paint an ideal picture of the Sonoma Coast wine region in your mind. It stretches along a protensive expanse of Northern California, all the way from Petaluma Bay and the Marin County border up to Mendocino County. Picture in your mind the rugged coastline, fog, sea spray, and sometime extreme, undulating topography. It’s climate is generally cool due to the vast ocean’s proximity. You’ll likely want to bring a jacket and hiking boots when you visit. . . . . Fantastic cool-climate wines with their own identities come from Sonoma Coast. The problem is, when the US government created this American Viticultural Area (AVA) back in 1987, it included a vast swath of much warmer inland territory as well as extremely varied areas in terms of climate, terrain, and soil types. The AVA covers more than 500,000 acres, making it the biggest AVA in the county. And although a lot of wineries use Sonoma Coast fruit and put the name on their labels, the region as a whole is not hugely concentrated with vineyards. It’s just too big and ill-defined. That’s why trying to understand what Sonoma Coast means in wine terms can be confusing. In fact, I spent a while trying to figure out what this statement from one Sonoma website actually meant: “Much of Sonoma County’s most celebrated Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are grown here, yet few wines are actually made in the Sonoma Coast AVA, and several of its most distinctive sub-regions are not officially recognized AVAs.” It behooves knowing a little bit more about this region to seek out the best wines to order online, especially reds like Pinot Noir and, curiously, Syrah, but also Chardonnay. Just check out where the grapes came from within the AVA. Syrah is interesting because it’s a highly adaptable grape, which changes its expression depending on where it is grown. The Syrah wines made from coastal Sonoma vineyards (as opposed to those 5 miles inland but still in the “Sonoma Coast” AVA) make for “delicate, ethereal wines” rather than perhaps more typical, muscular, powerhouse Syrah, according to Decanter. Since 1987, some sub-regional AVAs have been created, like Fort Ross-Seaview and Petaluma Gap, and another one seems to be coming, called West Sonoma Coast. In addition Sonoma Coast overlaps to some extent with the famous Russian River Valley AVA, renowned for its Bourgogne varietal wines. Those looking for true Northern California coastal terroir wines should focus on the following regions, and try some of the different wines, available online, listed below: West Sonoma Coast: For now, all these wines will likely be labelled Sonoma Coast, because the proposed AVA does not legally exist yet. Here, a group of like-mended vintners sought to see what this distinctive oceanside climate, but with often varying microclimates depending on elevation, would mean for wines organically and/or biodynamically produced. They often call the “True” Sonoma Coast. Grapes mature more slowly than in other areas, leading to better