Destination: Cape Ann

DESTINATION CAPE ANN

CAPE ANN

DESTINATION CAPE ANN

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ummer in New England. Time to travel and explore new cultural destinations—or return to an old favorite. If this is your first trip to Cape Ann, Massachusetts’s northern coast, prepare to be mesmerized—and, perhaps, pleasantly surprised—by the extraordinary array and diversity of this lively arts center. Cape Ann is experiencing a renaissance. There is more art, more music and more theater. Its quiet allure intrigues visitors with its multitude of galleries, museums and artist studios—all found amidst rocky waters and working harbors.

Summer is the perfect time to explore the landscapes and seascapes that have inspired countless artists since the 19th century. The views, the mythic light and even the evocative place names—Annisquam, Magnolia, Rockport— have drawn the attention of notable artists including, Fitz Henry Lane, Winslow Homer, Childe Hassam, Maurice Prendergast, Cecilia Beaux, John Sloan (a major exhibit of Sloan’s work opens July 11 at the Cape Ann Museum), Marsden Hartley, Frank Duveneck and Nell Blaine. Here’s how to follow in their footsteps: After crossing the bridge over the Annisquam River, Rte. 127 takes you along the west coast of the island. The incredible views of the coves and harbors are incorporated into the work of New England-based Rusty & Ingrid Creative Company. A husband and wife team, Rusty and Ingrid create fine art screen prints, note cards, tea towels, and linoleum block prints and sell them online and at several venues around Cape Ann. Their hand printed poster series ‘Views of Cape Ann’ has an old time feeling illustrating the area’s iconic images. Look for them at the Manchesterby-the Sea Festival on August 1 and the Gloucester Waterfront Festival, August 15 & 16.

Motoring north past Goose Cove to the right, Lobster Cove and Annisquam Village on the left, we’ll see Plum Cove to the left on the way to Lanesville. If an open space beckons, park there.

You’ll enjoy one of the most treasured views of Cape Ann, especially at sunset.

Entering Lanesville, a village on the northwest corner of Gloucester, you’ll come across Flatrocks Gallery owned by artists Anne Marie Crotty and Cynthia Switzer Roth. Flatrocks has become for many the magnetizing epicenter of this art laden village. Here you’ll find rare books and maps, and local crafts of pottery and jewelry.

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Eagle Head in Manchester. Photo: Chris Langathianos. Courtesy of Cape Ann Chamber of Commerce.

The gallery spaces highlight Cape Ann artists, both established and emerging. Cynthia and Anne Marie creatively curate their shows and usually bring their artists together along a oneword theme. Their arrangements always create energy. Enjoy Heart of Cape Ann, paintings by Ann Lafferty and photos by Paul Cary Goldberg, July 15–August 9.

Continuing along the coast on route 127 towards Rockport, the number of granite walls and posts increases. As you pass Pigeon Cove on the left, you cross a small granite bridge. This is a stone’s throw (pun intended!) from some of the first granite quarries in America, an industry that left its mark all over Cape Ann. Follow the coast (and the signs) to Rockport and Bearskin Neck. There are several streets with parking meters and it’s best to grab the first one you see—during high season, the town is jumping. There are fun, casual cafes all along Main and Mt. Pleasant streets, and small park areas with benches to rest on in between gallery hopping and boutique shopping. The salt air is invigorating—and will keep you energized.

The houses along Main Street dating from the 1700-1800s quickly become shops, galleries, and enticing window displays. The 93-year old

Rockport Art Association (RAA), housed at 12 Main Street, boasts an unmatchable museum collection of Cape Ann artists, and hosts exhibitions year round in addition to workshops, lectures, sketch groups, and gallery walks. RAA’s Summer Artist Showcases include: George Martin’s oils, July 23–28, artist demo, July 25; and Gary Tucker, watercolors, August 6–11, artist demo, August 8.

RAA’s Third Summer Photography Exhibition is on view July 25–August 25. (Stop by on August 13 to celebrate Art New England’s July/August issue. All are welcome!)

A few doors down from RAA, visit with Karen Tusinski at the Tusinski Gallery, a rising star amongst collectors. Her delightful array of bold, colorful flowers—most notably poppies—absolutely dazzle. They’re large images of abstracted flowering plant life that seem to grow and dance. Her beach pebble paintings have a beautiful stillness to them, serene yet whimsical.

Her artist statement explains that Tusinski “subscribes to the natural contrast found in our world.

Geometric and organic form play together in each piece, combining in an energized abstraction.”

Karen’s work has been selected to appear in numerous films, including most recently HBO’s Olive Kitteridge, filmed on Cape Ann last year.

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CAPE ANN some seem almost three-dimensional. Partners Kathleen Miller and Stefan Mierz display their own work—Mierz’s textural pointillism is outstanding—alongside the paintings of author/ artist Lawrence Martin-Bittman and colleagues.

An active part of Bearskin’s Neck community, Art Nook is planning a fundraiser for Cape Ann Animal Aid on July 18; hosts artist demos every summer Saturday; and participates in Rockport at Night events, the first Friday of every month.

Walking out of Bearskin Neck, veering left and heading up Broadway, you’ll encounter the G-19 Artisans Gallery, showcasing work in photography, wood, sculpture, fabric, clay and metal. Owner/curator Cynthia Belchou works collaboratively toward the preservation of the Rockport Art Colony and serves as co-leader of the Rockport Cultural District. “Appreciating the long history of art on Cape Ann, my personal aim

27 PLEASANT STREET, GLOUCESTER, MA

On Bearskin Neck itself, you’ll find, tucked slightly off the road with a flagstone patio, the photography gallery of R. Lerch, whose mission is “to promote awareness of photography as a medium suitable for expressing the loftiest of artistic impulses, and to be an agent for elevation of the Human Spirit.” As you enter the gallery you immediately gain a sense of peace. The images, although in color, evoke an older world of black and white. They are a glimpse into an old 19th century family home, a glance out a window, a shadow on the wall, or the fog reflected upon the water. Lerch, whether photographing Maine, Gloucester or Ireland, understands the essence of each place.

The Art Nook Gallery is further up Bearskin Neck on the left side in a small one room studio.

It’s an eclectic and spectacular array of color, whimsy and texture. The paintings are lively and

in establishing G19 was to increase awareness of the historic art colony and to make a positive impact within its ongoing artistic discourse…The represented artworks are a testament to artistic vision, beauty and skill. Weekly events showcase artists, raise funds for charity, and foster community involvement,” notes Belchou.

Further up Broadway, in the red house on the right side, is the contemporary art gallery, iartcolony. Co-founders and co-inspirators Bob Armstrong and Jill Whitney Armstrong have created a haven for creators and collectors. Their goal is to promote artists—near and far—bringing new visions and new visitors into Rockport to witness the art of the 21st century. It’s their intention to design shows of intrigue, push boundaries, and explore all mediums and forms of artistic expression. Last year they orchestrated out of bounds 2014—a seminal event hosted by the

JOHN SLOAN Gloucester Days JULY 11–NOVEMBER 29, 2015

John Sloan (1871–1951), Sunflowers, Rocky Neck [detail], 1914, oil on canvas. Gift of Alfred Mayor and Martha M. Smith, 2008. [2008.14]

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CAPE ANN Rockport Art Association, including 18 alumni and faculty of the School of the Museum of Fine Arts. Currently on view is motif 2015—15 artists from around the country presenting their visions of Motif #1 in the form of conceptual paintings, sculpture, photography, video and performance art installations—honoring Rockport’s red icon, the most painted and photographed building in the world. Visit iartcolony and join the dialogue.

Before leaving Rockport, definitely visit the Hershey Frame Shop with all your new art purchases. Started in 1998 by Ross Rulli, the shop specializes in conservation framing methods, offering a variety of high quality contemporary and traditional picture frames, multiple styles of archival acid free matting, and UV blocking conservation glass that accentuate fine art from the medieval to the post modern. The shop is currently run by Rulli’s son, Caleb, whose grandfather, artist Samuel Hershey, moved to Rockport in the 1930s. Imagine the wonderful thread of knowledge passing from one generation to the next.

Finding our way back onto 127, we’ll drive next to Rocky Neck, home to one of the oldest active art colonies in the country, located slightly northeast of downtown Gloucester. As you approach the art colony and cultural district you’ll notice a wide red, rather squat building.

This is Gorton Stage, home of the acclaimed Gloucester Stage Company. Consider a matinee after a late lunch or an evening performance after dining at a Rocky Neck restaurant. Since 1979, the company has performed each summer to the delight of audiences and critics—and this season extends through the fall, by popular demand.

Some of the summer’s upcoming plays include

Out of Sterno by Deborah Zoe Laufer through July 18; The New Electric Ballroom by Enda Walsh (author of the musical Once), July 23–August 15; and The Flick by Annie Baker opening August 20.

Just a few minutes from Gloucester Stage is a small street called Pirate’s Lane. At its end you’ll find a pier and a grand old house, home to the North Shore Arts Association (NSAA). Here you can enjoy exhibits, walk about the pier and gaze upon Gloucester’s active harbor. Established in 1922, the NSAA has an immense collection of paintings, sculpture and prints from a membership of more than 600 artists and supporters.

They also offer exceptional workshops, lectures, concerts and films. On view this summer: A juried art show, July 2–25 alongside exhibits by Nella and Steven Lush, and Carole Loiacono.

In a mood to collect? NSAA’s Annual Fine Arts Auction—a summer highlight—takes place

August 1 with an artwork preview, July 28–31.

Leaving Rocky Neck, we enter downtown Gloucester, home of the wonderfully and recently refurbished Cape Ann Museum, featuring a large collection of world-renowned local artists, from past to present. They also boast collections of decorative arts, lace, furniture and the unique textile prints of the Folly Cove Designers. The museum also hosts a complete roster of walking tours, lectures, author readings, films and musical events.

Dominating their summer lineup is John Sloan Gloucester Days, opening July 11, an exhibit of approximately 35 works, five from the museum’s permanent collection, the rest from private and public collections across the country. Sloan was a master at utilizing Gloucester’s rugged landscape as a backdrop to experiment and explore ideas about form, texture and light.

As you walk out the museum’s front door,

By Caleb Rulli

Helping our clients display and protect their valuable artwork since 1998 8R Pleasant Street, Rockport MA (978) 546-2655 www.hersheyframeshop.com

Wheelworks Pottery Wheel-thrown Functional Pottery

Gloucester-made originals, available online and at fine retailers.

(See website for list.)

rustyandingrid.com

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Jim Trudeau 4 Eastern Avenue Essex, MA 01929 978-768-3578 jtrud3@comcast.net facebook.com/WheelworksPottery

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CAPE ANN turn left and you’ll find extraordinary beadwork at Beth Williams Studio just a few doors down. Beth designs the most exquisitely detailed handmade glass beads and jewelry. She writes, “Exploring the qualities of glass and color are what drive my work; using light and transparency in surprising ways along with layering color on color helps me to create unusual contemporary beads and jewelry. Inspiration comes from my gardens, the ever-changing light on the ocean, the seascapes that surround me…”

A master in her field, Beth presents in July at the International Society of Glass Beadmakers Gathering in Albuquerque, NM, on Forging Ahead: Creating New Connections in Glass with Metal.

Just around the corner, taking a right onto Main Street, you’ll walk next to Local Colors Artists’ Cooperative, featuring the innovative work of pottery artist, Virginia Townsend.

Virginia has been designing serving ware inspired by the sea and more recently by geography. Her current series, “Where am I?,” features platters and bowls that display the names of local places along with their latitude and longitude coordinates. What a perfect gift! Bring your meaningful coordinates to Virginia for a unique and custom creation.

Another approach to exploring the artistic heritage of Cape Ann is to take classes. If you live in New England, this is an easy plan to make to enhance your craft or try something brand new.

Stop by Northeast Art Workshops and Retreats in Gloucester to learn more. Their workshops feature internationally acclaimed faculty who teach painting, encaustic monotype, mixed media and watercolor techniques, both in studio and en plein air. These highly regarded workshops provide a wonderful opportunity to immerse yourself in

one of America’s oldest art centers. Upcoming workshops include Caleb Stone, plein air watercolor workshop, July 31–August 2.

Music is an integral part of the cultural heritage on Cape Ann—and in abundance this summer. In Rockport the Shalin Liu Performance Center is celebrating its fifth year with a dynamic roster of entertainment, performed against a dramatic waterfront backdrop. Prefer to sing the blues? On August 8, enjoy a full day of it at Stage Fort Park for the fourth annual Gloucester Blues Festival. The music starts at 11 a.m., but plan to arrive early to enjoy the food and arts vendors— and to secure a great viewing spot. Headliners include Juke Joint Five, Alexis P. Suter, Mitch Woods, Lil Ed and the Imperials and Sugar Blue.

Switching styles, the Newburyport Chamber Music Festival runs August 8–16. This week long program offers a masters class, open rehearsals,

Art Nook Gallery REAL music REAL people REAL time SEASON 14

N E W B U R Y P O R T

Eclectic Fine Art 58 Bearskin Neck, Rockport, MA www.Art-Nook.com

57 EASTERN AVENUE (RT. 133) • ESSEX, MA 01929 1-978-768-7622 • WALKERCREEKFURNITURE.COM

CHA BER

USIC

FESTIVAL

August 8–16, 2015 Innovative chamber music in unique, historic Newburyport venues. Engage with world-renowned musicians in a week-long series of concerts, open rehearsals, lectures, master classes and family programs.

Music of Bond, Brahms, Cassado, Crumb, Debussy, Haydn, Mendelssohn, Poulenc, Vaughan-Williams, and World Premieres by Jay Reise

David Yang, Artistic Director 978.701.4914 • NewburyportChamberMusic.org

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CAPE ANN lectures and concerts, bringing alive the music of Debussy, Brahms, Mendelsohn, Bartok, Haydn, and Beethoven. It comprises twelve artists, thirteen events and six venues. The concerts are performed in acoustically-perfect 18th and 19th century stone and wood buildings and chapels in Newburyport’s historic downtown. On August 15, enjoy a concert in collaboration with Exit Dance Theatre, the esteemed modern dance company based in Newburyport.

As you leisurely drive out of town, south on route 127, past Magnolia, you’ll find the lovely coastal town of Manchester-by-the-Sea—worthy of a full day’s stroll. Top of your list: Gladstone Gallery. Step into their timeless shop of dark wood and glass showcases filled with the contemporary and the classic. Elaine Souza and her husband Charles Gladstone feature a collection of fine antique jewelry juxtaposed with modern

classical designs. The walls of the gallery feature exhibits of local artists, printmakers and photographers. Souza and Gladstone are drawn to “understated, extraordinary pieces.” They both design themselves and also showcase the work of jewelry makers from around the world.

If you opted for route 133 out of Gloucester, that’s great, too! Take route 133 west towards Essex for a drive past infamous clam shacks and antique shops. Stop in for a visit with Robert and Patricia Hanlon, owners of Walker Creek Furniture, a unique workshop and gallery with beautiful one-of-a-kind hand finished tables made from barn wood, old doors and hand-planned boards. The Hanlons have been making furniture for nearly 35 years, inspired by 18th and 19th century designs in both style and construction. Their gallery boasts their own landscapes and abstract art along with other local New England artists.

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CAPE ANN Stop in at Wheelworks Pottery Art Gallery further down the road in the big yellow house at 4 Eastern Avenue for beautiful pottery that will enhance your table. Since 1985, Jim Trudeau of Wheelworks has specialized in wheel-thrown functional pottery finished in beautifully colored, durable glazes. Jim’s designs are a perfect gift— though it’s wise to purchase additional pieces as they are known to be difficult to part with.

There is yet more in this direction, including Ipswich Center, home to the Ipswich Museum, known for its largest collection of paintings by the 19th century Ipswich artist and teacher Arthur Wesley Dow. The museum is comprised of the Heard House built in 1800; the Whipple House, from the 17th century; and the Knight House, a replica of first-period colonial homes.

The summer 2015 exhibit features more than 30 objects chosen by the staff as their favorite pieces,

TUSINSKI GALLERY

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2 MAIN STREET, ROCKPORT, MA 978.546.2244 TusinskiGallery.com

ROCKPORT CULTURAL DISTRICT • OPEN YEAR ROUND

including a little leather book that stopped a Civil War bullet from killing Col. Nathaniel Shatswell, Ipswich’s most decorated soldier.

Summer is the time for festivals. Add these to your Cape Ann calendar. On August 1st, the Manchester Division of the Cape Ann Chamber of Commerce hosts the Festival by the Sea, in downtown Manchester-by-the-Sea. An all-day family-friendly celebration featuring local artists, fine crafts, live music on two stages and locally grown food beginning at 10:00 a.m., the event concludes with an evening concert by the harbor in Masconomo Park. On the weekend of August 15–16 is the 35th Gloucester Waterfront Festival, at historic Stage Fort Park, an annual tradition sponsored by the Cape Ann Chamber of Commerce. The festival combines art and music, and you’ll be especially delighted by the jazz and maritime bands. Children will enjoy the puppetry and Saturday’s scrumptious pancake breakfast.

One of the biggest festivals on the North Shore, it attracts more than 175 juried artists and craftsmen.

I’m sure you’ve reached the conclusion that a two-or three-night stay is warranted—to only scratch the surface. Explore the website of The Inns of Rockport—a group of 25 wonderful inns, hotels, motels and rental properties in Rockport, many in historic houses in the heart of the cultural district. Some inns are situated on the rocky coast, with a quiet view of the sea. Many feature the most incredible breakfasts! And all of them are beautifully appointed and range from family sized cottages to luxurious suites or cozy rooms for two. You’ll find the most gracious innkeepers in every property—many with their own maritime stories to share.

Northeast Art Workshop Retreats gets rave reviews!

Saturday, August 8th Stage Fort Park, Gloucester, MA

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Internationally Acclaimed Artist Instructors All levels & all media including: watercolor, encaustic, acrylic, oil, collage, etc.

2000 sq ft Dream Studio also available for Shares and Rentals northeastartworkshops.com

978.729.4970

Virginia Townsend ~ Coastal Arts 978.526.9796 coastalarts@comcast.net Pottery Studio Nantucket Baskets

Local Colors • Gloucester Best of the Beach • Nantucket Sweetwater & Co. • Marblehead The Beach Plum • Fishers Island

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Inns of Rockport

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Tuck Inn B&B

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Inns of Rockport The Sally Webster Inn, a bed & breakfast, “Welcome to the Charm of Yesteryear” with Today's Amenities. Walk to the Harbor, Shops, Restaurants, Enjoy a Full Breakfast Buffet.

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BEST UNDISCOVERED INNS! Four-course gourmet breakfast. Nine meticulously decorated and appointed guestrooms. Private baths, WiFi, B E D & B R E A K F A S TNonsmoking, Year-round, Seasonal Pool.

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BEST UNDISCOVERED INNS! Four-course gourmet breakfast. Nine meticulously decorated and appointed guestrooms. Private baths, WiFi, B E D & B R E A K F A S Nonsmoking, T Year-round, Seasonal Pool.

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Linden Tree Inn

Elegant, Victorian B&B. Enjoy Tobey’s homebaked breakfast.

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Inn on Cape Ann

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