Bold Issue #35 Global Food

INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS

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CONTENTS

The Food Issue #5 2016

Daily dish at De Kas Restaurant in Amsterdam, inspired by the cuisines of the rural Mediterranean, with fresh local vegetables playing an important role.

Features 37 CZECH MATE When it comes to food, we typically look to wine for the perfect pair. But, in the capital of the Czech Republic, Muriel Paras discovers Pilsner brews make the best companion.

Photos by Tishan Baldeo

44 EET SMAKELIJK! Eat well, and with taste. Canadian expat Geoff Vokes, takes us on a restaurant reinvention tour in Amsterdam.

48 SPILLING THE BEANS From its quilted slopes of coffee plantations to beautifully-preserved colonial towns, nothing prepares you for Colombia’s rugged Zona Cafetera. Alongside the world’s finest Arabica beans, Simon Willis discovers the traditions of this unique Coffee Landscape through its crispy plantains, abundant tropical fruits and one extraordinary local dish.

54 HUNGRY FOR MADRID Before trekking to the city for a culinary sojourn, Vawn Himmelsbach taps into a fellow foodie who wrote the book on eating your way through Spain. Photos by Margaret Stepien / Lonely Planet

58 THE SEDUCTION OF THAI CUISINE Spicing it up in the Land of Smiles… and chilies! By Anita Draycott

62 TASTING MEXICO CITY THREE WAYS Paris, Rome and New York City may be the A-list gourmet destinations, but there is a new contender for passionate foodies to explore: Mexico City. By Waheeda Harris

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D E P A R T M E N T S

World

Your

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ON OUR RADAR + TRENDS

Move over Paris, Madrid and New York, this is Mexico City’s Moment; meet our Globetrotter and design guru Steven Sabados; plus our editors’ picks of the best fashion essentials for the season.

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Here&Now DISCOVERIES + DESIGN

Get the inside story of the Corinthia Hotel in Budapest, the best design lobbies in Vancouver, New York and Sydney plus the best Mexican Tacos in Toronto.

CONTENTS

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The Food Issue #5 2016

From our travel expert Michael Smith, here the best apps to eat your way around the world.

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Upgrades The rich culinary scene of Vietnam is unlike anything you’ve ever experienced and goes far beyond the ubiquitous noodle soup.

Guide The

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Decoding Barbados: Why you’ll love the island and what you need to know!

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Worth Travelling For The Live Aqua Boutique Resort Playa del Carmen where globetrotters are being immersed in a kicked-back, relaxed Hippie Chic lifestyle of sophisticated accommodations and cutting-edge dining and mixology experiences.

ON THE COVER Freshly made Costilla tacos - rib eye steak with spicy salsa macha - from Campechano’s Restaurant. For more on Campechano turn to page 28.

Photo by Carlos Bolivar

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Publisher’s Note

DINNER IS SERVED: Memories of the summer, enjoying a beautiful paella with friends.

I was about 13 years old when I got my first cooking lesson from my grandmother, a pragmatically self-taught chef who had been working in Ottawa for almost 30 years. She taught me the intricate process of making Paella Valenciana. There are many variations of this beloved dish, but hers was prepared with tomato, pepper, onion & garlic sofrito, and rabbit.

Through years of trial and error and knowledge passed down from generation to generation, she knew just the right cooking time and the right pinch of salt and saffron. But the experience was more than just learning how to balance the intricate blend of spices.

It also came loaded with her history lessons and the gossipy tales about the people she had cooked for in the past.

Today, when I prepare paella for family and friends, I am often reminded that sharing food with our friends and families is one of the most important things we do in our lives. It sets the table for creating new memories, sharing experiences, being creative, and laughing together.

At BOLD Traveller, we believe that good food can inspire a journey. To us, the best definition of a vacation is an afternoon of sightseeing bookended by an exquisite meal on one end and a bottle of rosé on the other.

Tastes and aromas are primal memory keepers.

They have transportive powers, bringing us back in time and around the globe. Experiencing a dish in context forever changes your impression of not just the cuisine but the culture and the location itself.

In the issue, we connect local cuisines to their greater social, geographical and historical contexts: national identity in Mexico, the diverse flavours traversing the Vietnamese landscape, and experimenting with new approaches in Amsterdam.

You’ll find plenty in this issue to whet your appetite not just for eating but for hitting the road.

Now dig in!

Marlon J. Moreno Publisher

PROUD PARTNERS OF BOLD MAGAZINE 10 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

CONTRIBUTORS

Inspired by this month’s features, we asked our contributors about their unique food experiences.

Geoff Vokes

Writer

Eet Smakelijk!

Dutch food you can’t live without The delicious frietjes (French fries) and bitterballen Favourite restaurant scene in Amsterdam Little Collins, a great place for grilled halloumi Dutch food in three words Fried. Familiar. Fabulous.

44 Simon Willis

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Writer

Spilling the Beans Colombia’s Coffee region in three tastes Patacón with a pot of hogao sauce, tinto - a black coffee with no milk, guarapo - sugarcane juice Lasting impression of Colombia Whether drinking a mug of fine coffee or sipping a tropical fruit juice, the sincere smiles of Colombian servers and fellow diners will stay with me forever.

Vawn Himmelsbach

Writer

Hungry for Madrid The flavour you most associate with the Spanish Capital is Cocido (chickpea and meat stew) When in Madrid don’t forget to wander the streets of Malasaña to discover bookshops, cafes and bars After Dark do like the locals and make dinner reservations for 10 p.m. (or later)

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Anita Draycott

58

The Seduction of Thai Cuisine Describe your perfect Thai meal Jasmine rice and curried crab Fantasy Personal Chef The chef at the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok who concocts the sandwiches and sweets at High Tea in the Authors’ Lounge Your last meal would be Tom yam soup with succulent shrimp and the zest of lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves.

Waheeda Harris

62 Salmon carving at the Hell/Peklo Restaurant in Prague, the Czech Republic.

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Writer

Writer

One City, Three Ways: Tasting Mexico City Lasting impression of Mexico City food scene A city that remembers its past but embraces the future of its cuisine. Greatest meal there French style meets Mexican ingredients: 11 course tasting menu at La Table Krug, St. Regis Hotel. What would you fly back for Churros and coffee at El Moro, one of the oldest churro places in Mexico City.

MARLON MORENO Publisher + Editorial Director MAGDA DE LA TORRE America’s Editor CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Liam Wilkinson • David Locke • Muriel Paras • Michael Smith • Meagan Drillinger • Andrew Brudz • Gustavo Reid ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN Laura García PHOTOGRAPHY Carlos Bolivar • Tishan Baldeo WEB DEVELOPER Rahul Nair PUBLIC RELATIONS AGENCY Jesson + Company / jessonco.com / info@jessonco.com 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON. M5S 1M2 ADVERTISING For Advertising, Promotion, Reprints and Sponsorships inquiries: marketing@boldmagazine.ca / PHONE: 1.416.323.7828 extension 25 CORRESPONDENCE The Hudson Bay Centre / 20 Bloor St. East P.O. Box 75075 / Toronto, ON. M4W 3T3 BOLD® is published bimonthly by Pulso Media Group Inc. Opinions express in BOLD are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers. BOLD does not assume liability for content. www.boldmagazine.ca MEDIA SPONSORSHIPS marketing@boldmagazine.ca

A World of Possibilities

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ON OUR RADAR + TRENDS

Mexico City’s Moment

A neighbourhood gem in the largest city in North America?

SARAH TRELEAVEN discovers in Polanco, it’s still possible to get an intimate vibe BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 15

Your

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SPOTLIGHT

W

hile Canadians seeking soft-sand beaches in the height of winter flock en masse to Mexico’s coastlines, very few make the inland pilgrimage to the sprawling capital city – which retains a high degree of mystique. But intrepid visitors might arrive with uncertain expectations only to find a paradise of

delicious street food and elegant fine dining, marvelous Bellas Artes buildings, distinct and charming neighbourhoods and refined parks that rival even those in Paris.

Mexico City is rapidly becoming one of the world’s hottest destinations.

Earlier this year, the New York Times named it the #1 place to go in 2016. And there is no other neighbourhood that so exemplifies Mexico City’s growing sophistication like ritzy Polanco, a stunning collection of grand boulevards and meandering cobblestone lanes lined with tall trees. Elegant cafés have seating that spill out into the streets and gated mansions are partially obscured by overgrown pink and purple bougainvillea. Fashionable Mexicans linger on patios over post-work glasses of wine and they valet their cars even to stop for coffee.

Polanco is just steps from beautiful and massive Chapultepec Park, where visitors will find the Anthropology Museum and Chapultepec Castle. The much smaller Lincoln Park is full of businessmen on cell phones and parents with children sitting by a large pond within earshot of a cacophony of lovely, slightly off-key singing from the brightly coloured birds of a nearby aviary. The streets are named after writers, scientists and philosophers, from Bernard Shaw to Socrates – a legacy of the neighbourhood’s Jewish, Lebanese and Spanish immigrants and a sign of Polanco’s outward-looking focus.

At one corner of Polanco sits the Four Seasons Mexico City, a 240room hotel reopened last fall after a major renovation, complete with new “gastrobar,” British barbershop and massive “wellness space” complete with traditional Mexican treatments and a rooftop pool. The best part might be the hotel’s courtyard – a large and lush space with an impressive fountain, spectacular flora and intimate sitting areas. In the hotel’s Fifty Mils bar, an intimate lounge space with a long marble bar and red leather stools, bartenders give cocktails a local twist by using grasshopper salt on the rims.

Guests can also take those cocktails outside to the small, hidden fire pit to sit under the lavender neon sign that reads “our little secret.”

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The artfully decorated lobby, Four Seasons - Mexico City

The Fountain of Diana the Huntress, one of the most representative sculptural works of Mexican art - outside the St. Regis Hotel.

“Polanco is the destination for the latest in fashion, fine dining and the arts, a symbol of exclusivity,” says Agnes Ignacio, assistant chief concierge at the Four Seasons. “Tourists consider it as a must-visit every time they come to Mexico City.” When Ignacio sends guests out into the neighbourhood, she starts with culture. “Polanco is currently home to two of the most important museums in the country,” she says. “Jumex is the top exponent of national and international contemporary art, and Soumaya houses the vast private collection of one of the world’s richest men, Carlos Slim. Both museums are icons of contemporary architecture.” Not far from there are the Teatro Telcel, where top plays and musicals are performed, and a huge aquarium, Acuario Inbursa.

But all of that culture can be exhausting. Fortunately, Polanco is also known to satisfy other appetites – namely, eating and shopping. The iconic Palacio de Hierro Polanco, one of the largest luxury department stores in Latin America, is often compared to London’s famed Harrod’s. Polanco is full of upscale brands such as Chanel and Hermès, while smaller, more local boutiques (often carved out of converted colonial mansions) line the lanes between Presidente Masaryk and Emilio Castelar. Locals love Onora for home decor, Rodrigo Rivero Lake for antiques and Lorena Saravia’s sartorial collections for both men and women.

Foodies flock to Dulce Patria for contemporary and highly polished Mexican food.

Dishes have included zucchini blossom and pine nut quesadillas and duck confit in mole negro. At Pujol, celebrity chef-owner Enrique Olvera offers elevated street snacks and innovative fine dining in his small dining room. For more international fare, Butcher and Sons is known to have the best hamburgers in city while Bistro Bec is renowned for French-Spanish fusion.

And for aperitifs and nightcaps alike, turn to Limantour for very fancy cocktails and Jules Basement for a speakeasy-cum-taco-joint kind of vibe – all in all, not a bad way to end a visit.

(For more on food on dining in Mexico City, turn to page 62)

BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 17

Your

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GLOBETROTTER

Beloved style guru Steven Sabados , host of the new CBC show, The Goods, dishes on his favourite travel hangouts, where to spot celebs, and just why he has so many mismatched towels.

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Canada’s answer to Martha Stewart, Steven Sabados has been a Canadian style icon for over 15 years, renowned for impeccable taste and giant heart. Last year, the whole country felt the collective grief after the tragic, sudden loss of his spouse and creative partner, Christopher Hyndman. Now, Sabados is making a triumphant and much-welcomed return to television with his new show, The Goods, promising to bring the luxury and laughs we’ve so missed.

BOLD recently caught up with Steven to talk about Barbados, The Hangover 2, and travelling after the heartbreak.

Where have you just come back from?

What’s your guilty pleasure while travelling?

My last trip was to Barbados. I had to go back to our condo

I have to say I consume as many calories in junk food as

to relax and catch a breath before heading into production for

possible while travelling. Why is it on a flight you need three

the new show, and to make sure the house was in order seeing

grocery bags of snacks and a trashy magazine? It’s not like

as I won’t be back until Christmas.

you won’t see dry land for days.

Where in the world have you felt happiest?

Which is your road most travelled?

Both myself, and Christopher of course, have never felt

My road most travelled is Barbados. I am blessed to be able

happier and more at home than in Barbados. We have always

to travel there, and be greeted by the same security people

considered it our second home and have a great collection of

and airport security each time I visit.

very close friends there who have become family.

What people still do not know about Barbados?

Name a place that most lived up to the hype.

Bangkok lived up to the hype. It really is just like in The

I am sure this has been said before but I can honestly say, the people of Barbados are so kind, welcoming and they treat

Hangover 2, fast-paced, crazy and New York City x 2!

you like family. Also, the island is full of hidden beauty. Go off

Which is your favourite hotel?

the beaten track and explore. If you get lost, an islander will

It has to be Jade Mountain Resort in St Lucia. It truly is the most beautiful private property I have ever seen, and the rooms only have three walls. The fourth wall is wide open to

always be there to make sure you find your way back.

What is your favourite travel companion?

My favourite travel companion has to be my Bose

not only a cantilevered infinity pool but also to a breathtaking

headphones. Noise cancelling technology is paramount and I

view of the magnificent and iconic pitons. It’s a secluded

get to catch up on all the movies I miss at the theatre.

hideaway for some of Hollywood’s elite, but you didn’t hear

What inspires you to keep exploring this planet?

that from me.

Confess time: name one thing you’ve taken from a hotel.

OK, I confess, I have taken beach towels from a hotel.

I think everyone needs to get out of their own bubble and explore this amazing world. There is SO much to learn and embrace from other cultures.

Why? I have no idea. I guess you can never have enough

What would be your trip of a lifetime? ​ I have never been

mismatched beach towels.

to Africa and would love to experience a Safari. I have a lot of respect for animals and I look forward to enjoying them in their natural habitat.

I LOST MY HEART IN … BALI

Christopher and I had an amazing and spiritual journey in Bali. If it’s not on your bucket list, add it. Trust me!

Watch The Goods every Monday to Friday at 2 p.m. (2:30 NT) on CBC.

BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 19

Your

World

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

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mountain peaks, the majestic Victoria Glacier and a glistening emerald lake at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise hotel, located in Alberta’s Banff National Park. This beautiful property stands in the celebrated birthplace of Canadian mountaineering and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site – recognized globally for progressive environmental stewardship and responsible tourism.

Originally built as a base for outdoor enthusiasts and alpinists more than 100 years ago, Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise is a year-round luxury mountain resort offering guided mountain tours, world-class skiing in the winter, scenic hiking and canoe activities in the summer, kid’s camp, a luxury spa and exceptional dining experiences. fairmont.com/lake-louise/

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BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 21

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DISCOVERIES + DESIGN

Here&Now

It

DESIGN

is stated so often as to be trite: God is in the details. But this truism holds prodigious sway when discussing the glorious Corinthia Hotel Budapest.

You spot the details – design- and comfort-oriented – the minute you hand over your passport at the registration desk.

I noticed that the reception clerk wore not merely a handsomely tailored, gray-toned suit, but that his matching tie was artfully embroidered with the kind of floral embellishments you see so often in Eastern European countries – whether on folk costumes or on household linens. This themed floral motif (inspired by a nearby village, Kalocsa, known for native embroidery) was carried over to just about all the hotel personnel’s distinctive, stylish uniforms, whether on the collar of a waiter’s shirt, on the flap of a chambermaid’s uniform pocket, or the edge of a bellman’s vest. A lovely and loving tribute to the Corinthia’s footprint in Hungary, and parenthetically, unique to this hotel, not employed throughout the company’s nine owned-and-operated properties, from Khartoum

It is also worth mentioning that Auguste and Louis

to London.

Lumière – renowned as the first moving-picture makers – debuted their cinematic leger-de-main in Paris, but they chose for the first continental screening, naturellement, the Grand Hotel Royal, a mere two weeks after the hotel’s opening. Ultimately, the hotel’s Royal Ballroom was transformed into the And then there is the regal “R” which slyly ap-

1,000-seat Royal Apollo cinema and, throughout the

pears in surprising places. To understand that noble,

First World War, newsreels were screened twice daily;

curlicued “R,” one needs to know a little of the illus-

in the evenings, patrons donned black tie and top

trious history of this property. Corinthia Hotel Buda-

hats to dine and watch films.

pest was built originally as the Grand Hotel Royal in

the hotel’s original accoutrements and, bowing to

coincided with the opening of the Hungarian Millen-

that birthright, the Corinthia maintains those heritage

nium Exhibition, a destination to which le tout Europe

touches. Order a cup of cappuccino and floating on

flocked. The hotel featured theretofore unknown

a velvety blanket of snowy froth is a cocoa “R.” The

in-house amenities to seduce the elite clientele, with

napkin holders at the bar bear a lattice-work, semi-

services such as a post office, a hairdresser, a ticket

script “R,” embracing the serviettes. Embedded in

office, several dining boîtes (including a Gerbeaud

the elevator floors, are circular stone medallions with

confectionary, a name synonymous in Hungary with

metal inlays broadcasting that “R,” as well.

toothsome and tempting sweets and pastries), a

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That signature “R” for “Royal” donned many of

1896 and, indeed, she was splendid. Her christening

All these design touches speak to the care with

grocery, a bar, and a garden. And an on-property spa

which Corinthia Hotels, a family-owned, Malta-based

with Budapest’s celebrated thermal springs. The lifts

company, restored and renovated this exquisite

were operated by electricity, every room had a tele-

property. The impressive, landmarked skeleton, with

phone line and, an unheard-of luxury, in 100 of the

its imposing neo-classical façade and the dual,

350 rooms was an en suite bathroom! The massive

nearly 100-foot-high, glass atria, is E-shaped, tilted

ballroom supported a form of air conditioning and

90 degrees to the right. Not coincidentally, the hotel

heating with a network of blocks of ice or hot bricks

is located just off the celebrated Andrássy Avenue,

channeling their warmth or frosty breeze through an

designed to rival Paris’ Champs-Elysées and now a

elaborate configuration of grille work.

UNESCO world heritage site.

While the patrimony of this imposing hotel stretches back over a century, that original glory could not be sustained through world wars and a revolution. After it was purchased by Corinthia Hotels, the façade and about 20 feet of the entrance remained intact, but the entire hotel was demolished! In 2003, Corinthia Hotels, whose work ethic is “craftsmanship of care,” unveiled a stunning tableau: sparkle in the creamy-beige Roman travertine; gleaming, custom-crafted chandeliers; glittering glass walls. The 441 rooms feature luxurious taffetas, cut velvets, wools and silks. And worth noting,

I could have sampled everything. In the glamorous, in-

currently the suites are being reimagined by the estima-

terior courtyard of the Brasserie & Atrium eatery, more

ble London-based firm Goddard Littlefair, responsible for

of those cunning design details: Bottled water is dis-

the extraordinary London sister property.

creetly stashed in custom-crafted leather holders that

The nearly 11,000-square-foot Royal Spa (with

dangle tableside, hidden in the folds of crisp linen. I

Espa treatments) is perfectly suited to its environs;

think I was most delighted by the presentation of lamb

Budapest’s reputation for its restorative waters harkens

chops from the grill, delivered in cast iron, perched on

to Roman times and the later domination by Turkey only

a cleverly crafted, tiered, wooden platter with little iron

solidifies the tradition. This old-world, Art Deco spa has

pots for the sides. It was all simply superb.

been lovingly redesigned, with a stained glass ceiling

On a wall in the entryway of the hotel are plaques

above the graceful, curvilinear pool (in the original

commemorating visits by bold-face names. Guests

footprint of the 1888 pool and the largest hotel pool in

are also asked to sign a massive tome – Josephine

Budapest). Among the many offerings: an “experience”

Baker, Isabella Rossellini, Kool and the Gang, Jose

shower, an ice fountain and several plunge pools.

Carreras, Catherine Deneuve, Eric Idle, Helen Mirren,

Dining here is a gustatory adventure, courtesy of

Yehudi Menuhin, Snoop Dogg and on and on. Arnold

executive chef Péter Bolyki. Imagine, a top-flight Asian

Schwarzenegger noted that he had had a “wonderful

restaurant in the land of paprika! The Rickshaw, with its

stay” and lauded the “great service”...and penned, of

flaming-scarlet silk table runners and brocade-covered

course, “I’ll be back.”

menus, evokes the Far East immediately. I marveled at

I would say the very same thing. Only I’d say that

the more than 10 menu pages – Thai, Japanese, Chi-

the service was not merely great, it was cosseting and

nese and Indonesian flavours meld to perfection. I wish

impeccable. I, too, will be back.

BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 25

Here&Now DISCOVERIES

Lobbies have long been the heart and soul of a hotel. It is where a guest’s first entry is made and ultimately sets the tone for the entire hotel experience. Its evolving landscape reflects society’s changing needs from hi-tech integrations to dual-purpose luxury spaces.

As Hotels.com™ celebrates its 25th birthday this year, it reveals spectacular hotel lobbies around the world that showcase some of the best lobby features that never existed a quarter of a century ago - BY TRAVEL EXPERT TAYLOR L. COLE, APR WITH HOTELS.COM

The Art Gallery Lobby Listel Hotel, Vancouver, Canada

With an unwavering commitment to art and luxury, the Listel Hotel offers guests so much more than a place to stay. It is a place of culture and beauty that starts when you first walk through the doors. In its lobby you will find paintings, prints and sculptures from all over the world courtesy of the Buschlen Mowatt Fine Art Gallery. The hotel also features stunning First Nations art sourced from the University of British Columbia’s prestigious Museum of Anthropology. If that isn’t enough there is also a selection of original pieces by local artist Stewart Stephenson. thelistelhotel.com

26 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

The Modern Living Room Lobby citizenM, New York, USA

At citizenM, high design is stylishly fused with cutting-edge technology and unequalled comfort. The hotel lobby is like an oversized living room, with soaring 26-foot ceilings, and floor-to-ceiling bookshelves showcasing an eclectic mix of art from the likes of Andy Warhol and David LaChapelle. Guests can check-in via selfservice tablets and can then relax in this stunning social space. Relax in front of the fire playing chess, grab a bite from the 24-hour canteen or pull up a pew in the designated working areas. citizenm.com

The Instagram Lobby Ovolo 1888 Sydney, Australia

The 1888 Darling Harbour is a boutique hotel combining Sydney’s seaside charm with contemporary and vibrant design. An Instagram theme runs throughout the hotel where guests can check-in through the social media app, and take pictures at the selfie stand next to the lobby bar where a giant picture frame has been installed for guests to take snaps and tag #1888Hotel.

Attention all social butterflies – those with more than 10K Instagram followers get to stay for free! ovolohotels.com/en

BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 27

Here&Now THE TAKEAWAY

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Campechano’s famous Chipotle shrimp with mango salsa and pineapple. A sweet and spicy party; Co-owners and life partners Raena Fisher and Chef Daniel Roe.

S

eemingly hesitant about being interviewed, restaurateur Daniel Roe claims “It’s not about me. It’s about real Mexican food.”

The humble, unassuming 30-year-old is the owner of Campechano Taqueria, along with his girlfriend, Raena Fisher. With taco joints popping up from one end of the city to the other, Roe says the reason his is different is simple – simplicity.

Gone are the overstuffed menus, cluttered interiors and pounding hip hop, with

a focus instead on a slight menu, unfussy decor and a local vibe. The singular goal? “To serve the tacos I’ve been eating my whole life,” he says.

FROM THE BEGINNING Roe made his way to Canada from Mexico City 12 years ago. He settled in Vancouver, where he began his first foray into restaurant work, as a dishwasher.

It’s also where he met Fisher. The two worked together, and soon started dating.

Together, they moved to Toronto four years ago. Roe worked as a cook at Dundas West mainstay Black Hoof, and then as sous chef at La Carnita.

With the idea of opening their own place always in the back of their minds, it was a visit from Roe’s cousin, Javier Flores, in early 2014, that really got the twoyear process in motion. Flores, himself, owned a handful of taquerias in Cuernavaca. He invested in Roe’s idea and invited him back to Mexico to learn the ins and outs of running a business.

In January 2015, Roe returned to his homeland for four months, studying the intricate process of making tortillas by hand. When he came back to Toronto, he brought with him a traditional mill used to grind corn, something he says is

Toronto’s Campechano Taqueria marks a return to the simple pleasures of the Mexican favourite

By Andrew Brudz - Photos By Carlos Bolivar

28 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

becoming uncommon even in Mexico, making way for more modern processes.

(The mill is in view while sitting in Campechano’s back dining room.)

Fisher took six months off from her regular gig as a management consultant to help Roe open the restaurant, particularly with the business side of things.

TORT(ILLA) LAW Always hesitant to take too much of the credit, Roe insists his creations are based on nothing more than a basic recipe: tortilla + meat + onion + cilantro. “We’re not trying to invent anything,” he says. “We’re just trying to emulate what we do in Mexico.”

Much like the revered French baguette, tortillas in Mexico are made fresh every day. The tortilla makes or breaks (sometimes literally) the taco. At Campechano, a fresh batch is made for every order, with corn imported from the Macienda farms from the Oaxaca region.

The hastily photocopied menu reflects the often impromptu menu changes, based on, he admits, what they have in the kitchen. It usually features about eight different tacos, loaded with either rib eye, flank steak, braised lamb or chicken; two sopes (a thicker tortilla served open face); one dessert, tres leches cake; as well as some nifty cocktails. Specialty dishes are sometimes added to celebrate Mexican holidays, for instance, pozole, a corn soup with pork broth and chilies, for Mexican Independence Day.

MEXICO FROM THE INSIDE OUT The 43-seat restaurant took over the former Sadie’s Diner space, since opening in November 2015. Although Roe describes it as a “hole-in-the-wall,” once again he’s just being modest.

Nestled on Adelaide West, between Queen and King Streets, it certainly has more in common with the ramshackle charm of Queen West to the north than it does with more upscale King West to the south.

Campechano, which means good-natured or cheerful in Spanish, is a suitable descriptor. Inside, the look is as simple as the menu – clean and bright with white walls and hardwood floors. Adorning the walls are whimsical murals depicting common culinary scenes in Mexico, in the country’s signature red, green and white hues. They’re by local artist Luke Pollard, inspired by Chef Enrique Olvera’s book, Mexico from the Inside Out. The chill vibe, Fisher explains, was all part of the plan. “The food influences the atmosphere. It’s uncomplicated, accessible, and fun.”

Upfront, there’s the bustling open kitchen, bar and bench seating, with another dining room in the back, as well as a patio, with classic Mexican songs bopping over the speakers throughout. The staff is predominantly Mexican. “It hard to teach Mexican flavours to people that have never lived there,” Roe says.

In Mexico, having your local taqueria that you frequent regularly is common. And similarly, the neighbourhood-centric Campechano is filled predominantly with faces the couple recognizes. “I would say 60 per cent of our clientele are regulars,” says Fisher.

Roe adds, “It’s people that come…and come back.”

ON THIS PAGE: Campechano’s dining room and exterior decorated with murals depicting common culinary scenes in Mexico by local artist Luke Pollard. The murals are inspired by Chef Enrique Olvera’s book “Mexico from the Inside Out”

AND IT’S EASY TO SEE WHY. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 29

The best food apps to experience cuisine from around the world

By MICHAEL SMITH

E

ating local dishes is one of the best experiences when travelling. But all too often it can feel like you’re in a tourist trap, being served a gimmicky version of what you’re looking for. Thankfully there is technology to help. Here we bring you some of the best apps to help cut through the clutter and find that meal that you will be telling people about for years to come.

#FoodPorn Open

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people forget to use when tra velling The deals ap p of fers som e grea t dining experiences in cities far an d wide. The on that you might e downside is get to be as picky as you worth ha ving want, but it’s a look at wha t deals are av aila ble before you head on your next adve nture. is Groupon.

When it comes to picking the next spot to eat, social media can also play a part.

Facebook The social network has been adding e-commerce features to company pages and it seems food chains are next on the list. Users in the U.S. will be able to order food directly from pages, as well as other services such as buying movie tickets and booking spa visits.

Instagram Found a place online, but not sure it will be any good?

Look it up on Instagram’s search and see the #foodporn people have posted.

You will have good idea of presentation and portion sizes in no time.

Twitter Score some twitter points by tweeting the local tourism board or even local travel blogger for suggestions.

You will be a Twitter star in no time.

BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 31

ON THIS PAGE: Pho soup - the ubiquitous beef noodle soup, is a perfect example of the Vietnamese genius for balancing flavors and influences.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Turtle Tower (Vietnamese: ThĂĄp RĂša), also called Tortoise Tower is a small tower in the middle of Sword Lake, Hanoi, Vietnam. The Legend of Turtle Tower tells the story of Vietnamese patriotism and the strength it took to overcome Chinese oppression.

Dinner on a candlelight boat in Halong Bay, biking through a vast herb farm, and sampling the flavourful street food of Hanoi,

the rich culinary scene of Vietnam is unlike anything you’ve ever experienced and goes far beyond the ubiquitous noodle soup.

From its fascinating history, diverse landscape, and constantly shifting climate, Vietnam is a study in contrasts. Crossing the narrow country on the eastern side of the peninsula once known as Indochina, there’s a constant shift from modern to ancient, flat to mountainous, rainy to dry, hectic to tranquil.

And it’s from these contrasts that the country’s culinary traditions and flavours arise – deceptively simple combinations yielding richly complex results.

Five fundamentals taste elements include spicy, sour, bitter, salty, and sweet, brought to life with staples like nước chấm (fish sauce), lemongrass, mint, Saigon cinnamon, lime and basil.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: A vendor selling crafts in Halong Bay; Banh xeo - a fluffy thick crepe with shrimp, pork and bean sprouts; Vendors in Tra Que Village selling aromatic herbs - basil, spearmint and spice scents; A woman serving hot pho soup; The Red Bridge in Hồ Hoàn Kiếm; Glowing lanterns in Hoi An; A freshly grilled Bánh mì sandwich.

AT BAY Ask anyone who’s been to Vietnam what their favourite part was, you’re bound to hear echos of Halong Bay —and it’s not hard to understand why!

Four hours east of Hanoi, on the coast of the Gulf of Tonkin, the area is famous for its 3,000 breathtaking limestone karsts jutting out of the emerald waters. Creating a vista that’s simultaneously beautiful and ominous, they’re topped with rainforest jungles above and loaded with fascinating sea life below.

Four fishing villages dot the waters, with villagers living on floating houses. They scour the waters for over 200 species of fish and 450 different kinds of mollusks. So it’s no surprise that it’s an ideal setting to enjoy a seafood dinner.

A surreal, impossibly serene overnight stay aboard a boat is the perfect setting to enjoy the catch of the day.

PHO REAL In Hanoi, the country’s chaotic capital and second largest city, thousands of motorcycles whirl through the streets, as beleaguered pedestrians try to safely meander through them.

Broad, tree-lined avenues from the French period are surrounded by crumbling colonial charm. In their doorways, baguettes (for Bánh mì sandwiches) and cà phê đá (or coffee) are sold to locals on their way to work.

In the centre of the city is Hoàn Kiếm, or The Lake of the Returned Sword, the 18th-century Turtle Tower rests on a solitary islet.

As soon as the sun rises, the area is bustling with throngs of locals busy with their morning rituals, including a hot morning bowl of pho (pronounced fuh).

Inarguably the country’s most famous culinary export, pho is a daily staple, its rich, flavourful broth and hearty noodles providing a nourishing start to the day.

At nearby Đồng Xuân Market, vendors span three storeys of stalls selling

On the still waters of the bay, afloat on the luxurious vessel, dinner is served: horseshoe crab, grilled squid, and fresh lobster, enjoyed by candlelight on the deck.

HOI THERE The small and charming Hoi An is an atmospheric town of glowing paper lanterns, colonial architecture and riverside markets.

With beautiful wooden merchants’ houses and pagoda-style temples, Hoi An miraculously survived the destruction of the Vietnam War mostly intact.

Hoi An offers a few of its own unique culinary delights that you do not want to miss.

The White Rose (or banh bao vac) is a delicate rice paper dumpling stuffed with intricately flavoured shrimp. The secret recipe has been closely guarded by the family who created them for generations, and they alone supply the tiny delights to local restaurants.

Bicycling to Tra Que Village, about 3 kilometres away, offers views of water buffalo cooling off in the water near rice fields.

aromatic mangos, rambutans, and dragon fruit. Built in 1889 (and rebuilt after a

Far from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi, Tra Que is famous for its rows upon rows

disastrous 1994 fire), it’s also a great place to pick up some locally made souvenirs

of aromatic herbs —basil, spearmint, and savory —filling the air with sweet and

for friends and family back home.

spicy scents.

In Hanoi, you don’t have to leave all the cooking to the pros. At the KOTO Cooking

Here, local farmers and chefs teach about everything from making cao lau noodles

School (an acronym for Know One Teach One), at-risk youth including orphans,

(another local favourite) to banh xeo, a fluffy, thick crepe with shrimp, pork and bean

street kids, and impoverished children, train in hospitality, English, and most

sprouts.

importantly, cooking.

All are welcomed to come and take part in classes, as well. With memories and

JUST A TASTE

skills they will bring home with them, guests learn how to make fresh spring rolls,

This is just the appetizer when it comes to the flavours waiting to be experienced

pho, and even sweet Vietnamese desserts, before sitting down to enjoy all their

in Vietnam. From the fruit of Mekong Delta’s floating markets to the spicy dishes of

hard work.

Huế, there is plenty waiting to whet your appetite.

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RBC AVION PRESENTS: PRAGUE ®

38 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

A aerial view at night of the The Charles Bridge - historic bridge that crosses the Vltava river in Prague, Czech Republic. Its construction started in 1357 under the auspices of King Charles IV, and finished in the beginning of the 15th century.

When it comes to food, we typically look to wine for the perfect pairing. But, in the capital of the Czech Republic, Muriel Paras discovers Pilsner brews make the best companion.

Photos by Tishan Baldeo BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 39

T

here are some things that, as a traveller, you must accept. Some things, no matter how mainstream you may think, must be done.

That’s why I’m standing among the throngs on the Charles Bridge.

The expanse straddles the Vltava River, joining the old town to the new, but separating it just enough so the grande dame maintains an air of mystery. And mysterious she is. Before I unravel her, I must cross the river, the bridge. But this is not a bridge you sprint. It is for meandering, for observing, for absorbing. Locals, travellers and, yes, tourists all do the same.

Sculptures line the bridge, each inviting inspection, each of the more than 50 religious figures standing guard over the old town of Prague, all since the 14th century. Carved in stone, chiseled faces are yet animated. Eyes intense, returning my gaze, daring me to move on. Muscles flexed, vestments draped in a way that the wind may have swept them just so. Baroque architects took its building seriously: 16 arches curve below my feet, balancing the river’s flow with the tide of people that cross it above daily. When Charles IV commissioned it, the intention was for knightly pursuits, jousting competitions, games of war, on a clear, stone playing field. But, when Catholicism ruled the day, some 200 years later, artists were employed to forever immortalize the pious in stone.

ON THIS PAGE: The famous astronomical clock is the Old-Town Hall clock in Prague, also known as the Prague Orloj. The clock was completed in 1410; A guard on duty outside the Prague Castle, Prague, Czech Republic.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Modern Tram in Prague.

40 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

But I must move on. A hunger for history has given way to an appetite piqued. The towers that herald my arrival at the old town are as awesome as the bridge itself, and only hint at the architectural jewel yet to be revealed. The narrow, cobbled streets curve, macaron-pastels soft wash the buildings, so well preserved I feel I could be lost in a time warp. And that’s okay. My appetite is looking for a different taste now, one that’s been synonymous with Central Europe, and particularly the Czech Republic.

In Prague, and most of the rest of this country, the pious embarked on entrepreneurial endeavours. But it was not the grape that enticed them. Their brothers to the south may have done very well for themselves teasing the vine of its fruit and its subsequent juice, but here, the fields were, and still are, hops and wheat and barley. Grains were the currency, and malt and brew the art. Here, beer, which some consider the oldest alcoholic drink, is measured at a level of fine wines.

BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 41

Left to Right: Old town Prague from above; Inside the Strahov Monastery that serves today as a brewery and dining hall.

“Old it may be, but in Prague, mastering the art of brewing Pilsner is a rather youthful pursuit”

F

irst brewed in the Czech town of Pilsen in the 1800s, this lager is the product of citizens and brewers forming their own brewer’s guild. Its characteristics remain the same today:

a clear liquid of a light golden colour, with a grassy, hoppy, crisp taste on the palette. Not to be outdone, the monks of Prague had their own ideas, and had been brewing their

Beer Pairing

1

Nº

Where’s the Beef?

In Prague, everywhere. And if it’s not beef, it’s most likely pork. A real meat-and-potatoes

own, well, brew, since the 1400s at their home, the Strahov

palette, the Czech taste for sauces, creams and mayonnaises helps escape the run-of-the-

Monastery. Fast-forward to the new millennium, and it’s now

mill. Dumplings, or knedliky, are as ubiquitous as potatoes, and are very useful in sopping

the Monastic Brewery, run by brewmasters, but housed in the

up the sauce from the meats. Cold cuts and dips are also common beer hall pairings – the

same buildings. There’s a restaurant, too, and here we begin

Strahov Monastic Brewery will set an assortment out while tasting the amber lager. There’s a

our lesson in beer pairings.

dark beer, too, and this is the place to try it.

Beer pairing

Nº

2

Goulash – okay, yes it’s from Hungary …but the Czechs don’t discriminate if there’s a stew, particularly they’re own brand of Goulash soup, which they sometimes serve in a bread bowl, or just with hunks of rich, brown bread. Again, the vessel with which the sauce is sopped up is as key as the main dish itself. If Goulash is too rich for your tastes, choose a classic Czech soup, or polevka, made with onions or, if you’re stocked up on breath mints, try the garlic soup.

Beer pairing

Nº

3

Fried Cheese Not to be confused with the Greek saganaki, this fried soft cheese is usually paired with baked potatoes and a tartar-like sauce. No need to shout Opa! when it arrives at table. Just order another Pilsner, which cuts the saltiness of the cheese perfectly.

C

an’t decide? Fortunately, the brains behind many traditional restaurants around the city also take out a bit of the pairing legwork. Look on the menu for “Proti velké Zizeni,” loosely translated as “against great thirst

and hunger,” for the establishment’s house-made pickled cheeses and pickled sausages.

Want even more history? Head to U Fleku, Prague’s oldest beer hall. You may even be regaled by roving entertainers, who sing their way through the castle-sized hall, which is actually made up of a series of cavernous rooms all set with great-room-length wooden tables. Convivial and communal, the atmosphere is beer-soaked local charm.

A final word. Don’t be fooled by the word “salad” on a menu. This is not the leafy, green fare that you and I may favour. In Prague, if you order salad, it will be doused in mayonnaise, or some other creamy sauce.

And why not? It’s just the thing to fuel you up for another stroll across the Charles Bridge.

BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 43

EET SMAK E Eat well, and with taste. An expat takes us on a restaurant reinvention tour in Amsterdam By Geoff Vokes

44 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

T

he Dutch, with their penchant for all things renewable and reputation for sustainability have long been a model for the rest of Europe when it comes to living green. When half your country is below sea level and in an area roughly the size of Nova Scotia, it’s always ideal to be frugal with your resources. Fittingly, when

the Dutch do look to reuse, their collective eye for design plays well into planning, resulting in an array of spaces that incorporate existing elements within a factory, office space or warehouse, while managing to still embrace a modern aesthetic.

This is particularly true when you look at the development of the

LIJK!

restaurant scene in the nation’s capital, Amsterdam. The thing to bear in mind when dining in Amsterdam is that as the country’s largest and most diverse city, there isn’t necessarily a lot of traditional “Dutch” cuisine that grabs the attention of foodies here. French, Belgian and other continental influences permeate many of the city’s finer kitchens, along with accents from its colonial past in the form of Surinamese cuisine, and the omnipresent Indonesian-inspired rijsttafel.

The local gourmet scene also benefits from a sizeable expat community that yearns for more contemporary and varied fare beyond Dutch staples such as bitterballen (a deep-fried meat savoury) and stroopwafels (a thin waffle-like cookie), yours truly included.

Nowhere is this fusion of gourmet and design better experienced than in the number of new or relatively recent restaurants that have emerged beyond the core of the city. While Amsterdam still may suffer from horrendous tourist fare near Centraal Station (the main railway station), the trick is to fan outwards from the spider web of canals, beyond the tourist traps of red-lit windows and brown cafes.

Here are a few that we

think are worth exploring on your trip:

BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 45

HOTEL

DE GOUDFAZANT hoteldegoudfazant.nl Aambeeldstraat 10H, 1021KB in Amsterdam (Noord) Tel +31 (0)20 63 65 170 Closed Mondays, reservations (by telephone only) recommended

The godfather really of haute cuisine within an

abandoned setting, this French-focused dining room opened in 2006 in what was then the industrial wasteland of Amsterdam Noord, north of the city’s core. Hotel de Goudfazant (Golden Pheasant Hotel in English) is ironically, neither a hotel nor does it serve pheasant, well not on the nights we’ve been. What you do experience in this former garage space, fantastically

redone by local restaurateur Niels Wouters, runs the gamut from North Sea fish bisque to delicate poussin, along with an incredible chocolate mousse to finish things off. Worth the short ferry and bike ride!

DE KAS restaurantdekas.nl Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3, 1097DE Amsterdam Tel +31 (0)20 46 24 562 Open for lunch and dinner, closed Sundays.

Online reservations possible.

As befitting a restaurant located inside a former greenhouse and nursery, founder Gert-Jan Hageman has invested heavily in the concept of fresh foliage and produce.

Built in 1926 as an Amsterdam City Nursery, De Kas opts for a daily menu based on the harvests from their gardens and greenhouses, with an accent leaning heavily on Mediterranean delights. Three course prixfixe start at $49.50 and includes roasted celeriac, guinea fowl and local fish.

Naturally, a city so green and forward-thinking would have two restaurants in former greenhouses. The perfect spot for brunch in the city’s east, Plantage’s massive main dining room sits within 3m-high glass walls, framed in green steel.

The conservatory dates from 1838 and belonged originally

PLANTAGE

to the Artis Royal Zoo, which still operates today. As a result, peacocks wandering freely outside in the garden aviary add to the turn of the century feel – fear not however, they’re not on the menu. What is on offer is a selection of tartines, including Dutch goat cheese and grilled pear, or oeuf en brioche.

Beyond brunch, lunch and dinner options involve lamb sweetbreads, braised pork cheek and roasted octopus with mussels.

46 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

caferestaurantdeplantage.nl Plantage Kerklaan 36, 1018CZ Amsterdam Tel +31 (0)20 76 06 800 Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Online reservations possible.

The W HOTEL

Amsterdam with Duchess and Mr. Porter

wamsterdam.com

Locals were perplexed when the W chain announced they’d be taking up residence on Spuistraat, known more for its head shops and nightly red-lit windows. Any

Spuistraat 175, 1012VN Amsterdam Tel +31 (0)20 81 12 500 Both Duchess and Mr. Porter are open seven days a week for dinner. Online reservations possible.

jitters over the choice of location disappeared on opening night in October 2015, nearly 20 years after the first W hotel made its mark in New York City.

Its two main restaurants are spread across two buildings on either side of the street – Duchess is the grande dame of the two, with spiralling chandeliers and a rotating montage of historic artworks on ultra thin monitors. Housed in the former KAS Bank headquarters built in 1915, its shared-plate concept features foie gras donuts with fig jam, yellow pumpkin carpaccio and fruit de mer risotto with caramelized onions.

Across the way, Mr. Porter offers a more contemporary vibe, replete with 600g steaks made to order. Housed in the previously unglamorous 1970’s Rijkskantoorgebouw voor Geld en Telefoonbedrijf (National Office for Money and Telephone Exchange), the steakhouse and accompanying bar offer a 360-degree view of the city’s historic skyline, whilst you rub shoulders with Amsterdam’s young elite.

Baut Zuidas

Perhaps no single restaurant exemplifies the city’s ability for reinvention than the team behind Baut Zuidas. Currently located in a former schoolhouse, Baut Zuidas is the newest pop-up restaurant for chef Michiel van der Eerde, whose previous hit locations included setting up his knives in a former Citroen dealership and a newspaper office before that. With Baut Zuidas, the team has the perfect location in Amsterdam South’s (Zuid) expanding business dis-

bautamsterdam.nl

trict – spitting distance from the movers and shakers in the worlds of banking,

Prinses Irenestraat 31, 1077WV Amsterdam Tel +31 (0)20 46 59 260 Open for lunch and dinner daily. Online reservations possible.

law and consulting.

Opened in January of 2016 in a space that will at the end of this year become the location for the Postcode Loterij (National Lottery), the Zuidas (South) location for Baut takes their menu from the previous pop-up locations and goes in a more nautical direction, with Dutch shrimp bisque, Asian softshell crab and scallops with chicory.

INSIDER’S TIP

Other great options to experience the imaginative kitchens of Amsterdam in renewed digs include:

RESTAURANT C

LOBBY

Former location for Baut before they moved “Zuid,” and before that the headquarters for Het Parool, a Dutch newspaper that decamped for bigger surroundings in 2012. “C”, meaning Celsius opts for a culinary focus that ranges from -20C (ceviche to steak tartar) to +200C (barbequed steak and octopus). c.amsterdam

Located within the Hotel V on Nesplein, itself a former office block and Flemish Cultural Centre on a hidden side street off the Dam Square. Terrific flammkuchen (think Alsatian pizza), huge selections of charcuterie, and not a bad place to rest your weary head every night either. hotelvnesplein.nl

BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 47

The stunning view of Valle de Cocora - a protected area in QuindĂ­o known for its surreal, striking landscapes pegged with the slender, towering Colombian national symbol, the wax palm.

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From its quilted slopes of coffee plantations to beautifully-preserved colonial towns, nothing prepares you for Colombia’s rugged Zona Cafetera. Alongside the world’s finest Arabica beans, SIMON WILLIS discovers the traditions of this unique Coffee Landscape through its crispy plantains, abundant tropical fruits and one extraordinary local dish

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A

journey through Colombia’s coffee landscape doesn’t just tantalize the visual senses, a mix of world-class Arabica beans, tropical fruit juices, and surprising dishes make for an extraordinary culinary adventure.

We arrive just as the beans begin to shine a bright crimson. Next week, these mountains embroidered with rows of olive-green coffee plants welcome hordes of sombrero-wearing pickers. Every year, Los Cafeteros scale these treacherous slopes – at between 1,200 and 1,800 metres above sea level (the optimum altitude for growing Arabica beans)

– to supply international demand for what many claim to be the finest coffee in the world.

With wilting knees for a cracking cup of Colombian Joe, I’ve joined a 10-day, 10-per-

son Exodus cycling tour around the central Cordillera de los Andes; a mountain range bursting through the west of Colombia. A UNESCO heritage site, Zona Cafetera (coffee growing region) enchants those looking for sublime coffee and, as I find out, surprises many with a diverse array of culinary experiences.

Without a doubt, Zona Cafetera’s main draw emanates from the Arabica bean. Colombia produces about 11.5 million bags of coffee each year and this region supplies the majority. To taste the “finest cup of local coffee,” according to our guide, we cycle up to San Alberto, a farm lying in Buenavista, Quindío. Lulled by an enchanting panpipe version of The Sound of Silence, we lounge on the graveled terrace, etched into the luxuriant mountains that shimmer shades of olive green and emerald.

San Alberto specializes in luxury coffee, seeking only the finest beans. Workers sift through batches five times, tossing aside those that don’t meet the high standards. These select few are then dried and roasted in precise-defined conditions. The significance of this escapes me and I ask the barista for a cappuccino. Tied in a maroon apron, the young woman gasps, clutches her chest and stumbles backwards. After taking a deep breath and gathering herself, she politely reminds me that “milk would only spoil the wonderful flavour, sir.” I guess she’s right. It’d be like strolling into a Russian oligarch’s reception and pouring Red Bull into the vodka. Not cool. I, therefore, resist the temptation to order a double short, low foam latte with extra cream and settle for a tinto (black coffee). I sip the chestnut brown liquid silk and allow the gentle caffeine hit to ooze down my cycle-weary limbs. Delighted, I tip my imaginary cap to the barista.

The majority of our trip explores three provinces in the Coffee Triangle: Quindío, Risaralda and Caldas. Thanks to the diversity of our surroundings, cycling days push our senses to the brink. On dizzying descents we brush under snowboard-sized banana leaves, duck under swooping birds and inhale bitter-sweet scents from recently scythed lemon trees. We pedal alongside vast fields of sugarcane plantations, some burst from the earth like crowns of giant sunken pineapples, others lie dry and beige on the floor having been mowed down by the harvester. In Zaragoza, a town in the province of Valle de Cauca, we pull into a row of roadside wooden shacks, their roofs spewing purple and lime-green grapes like dreadlocks. The juice provides the suitably eye-popping sweet sensation before the owner, wearing a white poncho over his shoulder, serves platters of freshly cut guava, star fruit and succulent papaya.

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FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Red coffee beans ripe for picking; Workers sort through coffee beans; A manual coffee roasting machine; The Bandeja Paisa - the most popular Colombian dish, includes beans, white rice, chicharrรณn, carne en polvo, chorizo, fried egg, ripe plantain, avocado and arepa, A farmer picking coffee grains.

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An old fashioned - cast iron Coffee Grain Mill grinder.

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TO

fuel our 80km cycling days, which adventure travel experts Exodus labelled “challenging,” we dine at beautiful terracotta-roofed restaurants, their inner structures formed with locally-sourced guadua bamboo. We scarf down traditional menú del día (menu of the day), containing fluffy white rice, grilled meat, potato and vegetable soup and a tropical juice like tomate de árbol – tree tomato. We believe this meal to be sufficient in size until we see its colossal cousin. The Bandeja Paisa has roots sewn into these rolling mountains and has

kept workers, such as coffee pickers, brimming with energy for a tireless day labouring under the searing sun. Some claim this meal contains up to 2,250 calories – the same recommended daily intake for an active 31-50 year-old Canadian woman. When our lean mechanic Johnathan Rodriguez first orders one, our group stares open-mouthed. This mound of maroon beans, crispy pork belly, two types of sausage, egg, mincemeat, rice, a slice of avocado, a length of plantain, an arepa (cornbread) and a side of salad almost covers him from our sight. “We Colombian cyclists need the energy,” Jonathan says. Not every lunch contains such an extravagant calorie intake.

In Quindío, we explore Salento. Rows of bubble-gum-hued colonial houses line its slim streets, while dreadlocked dancers and guitarists decked in suits and trilbies entertain the swelling crowd. In the charming main square, blue and red Willys jeeps await travellers, ready to trundle them along to el Valle del Cocora. This nearby mountainous region features an array of hiking trails, some reaching cloud forests; others, snowy peaks. In the valley, spindly wax palm trees (the tallest in the world) shoot up from the earth and puncture the low-lying clouds. Knocking woodpeckers echo through the luxuriant forest and glistening lime-green hummingbirds flutter across our brows.

Back in Salento, a mix of international restaurants quell visitors’ appetites. Over the past decade or so, the town’s overseas population has steadily increased, bringing along Italian, Canadian and British cuisine. But for me, the most memorable dish here in Quindío’s oldest settlement lies with a Colombian favourite: the patacón. Often this green plantain, beaten flat then fried, is served as palm-sized discs with side sauces. In the open-fronted restaurants on Salento’s main square, however, huge patacones arrive bigger than a Paisa’s sombrero and with the perfect complement – hogao (a local sauce with tomato and onion).

After our brief culinary rest-bite, we head back into the glowing green coffee landscape. During the next four months (March through June) thousands of coffee pickers will strip the verdant valleys of coffee beans. And while this remarkable process has satisfied my coffee craving, it’s the local fare that has heightened my understanding of this unique landscape and, in particular, of

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Before trekking to the city for a culinary sojourn, VAWN HIMMELSBACH taps into a fellow foodie who wrote the book on eating your way through Spain Photos by MARGARET STEPIEN Lonely Planet ON THIS PAGE: Cocido Madrileño - Madrid’s classical meat and chickpea stew; OPPOSITE: The interior of Bodega Campos in Córdoba, Spain.

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You don’t need to wine-and-dine at a fancy restaurant or fashionable bar to get a taste of the sophisticated Spanish capital – just step into one of its many food markets. Madrid has a thing for renewing old food markets – some of which had fallen into disrepair – and turning them into trendy ‘it’ spots for tapas and drinks and socializing.

Funny enough, Madrid was never at the epicentre of Spanish gastronomy. Andalusia is known for its traditional tapas, while pintxos (bar snacks speared with toothpicks onto bread) hail from Basque Country. Valencia is home to paella, while Barcelona offers up Catalan specialties.

Madrid has stew. But the Spanish capital has also brought all of these culinary specialties together, and nowhere is this more apparent than in its food markets, with farm-fresh produce and high-quality seafood.

Stepping into the Mercado de San Antón in the district of Chueca – a building that dates back to the 19th century, which reopened in 2011 after a major refurbishment – you’ll find vendors selling fresh produce, fish and meat. Up a flight of stairs, gastro-bars offer up tasty bites of everything from Basque pintxos to Andalusian fried squid.

On the top floor is La Cocina de San Antón, a terrace restaurant serving up traditional Spanish cuisine. It’s worth a visit simply for the views from the old iron balconies (even better with a glass of sangria in hand). Vegetarians beware: it’s hard to resist the bellota ham, aged five years – from pigs fed a diet of acorns and aromatic herbs.

Perhaps Madrid’s best-known dish, however, is cocido – a chickpea and meat stew eaten in three parts, said Sally Davies, author of Lonely Planet’s food guide to Spain, From the Source: Spain. Less well known is that both the tortilla and patatas bravas originated in Madrid. The other great Madrid speciality is the churro: sticks of fried dough dusted with sugar that you dip into hot chocolate.

But there’s more to the culinary scene in Madrid than tapas, stews and paellas. “The thing about Madrid is that people seem to have a lot of time,” said Davies. “They work hard, and long, but they also linger over meals and incorporate eating out into their daily lives, even if it’s just stepping out for a coffee. Bars and restaurants are where business is done and friendships are made.”

The joy of Madrid, she said, is that many of its ancient taverns, or tabernas, are still going strong, and the city is perhaps more resistant to the tides of fashion when it comes to food.

“Unlike, say, Barcelona, where there is much more of an obsession with all things avant-garde, Madrid is much more traditional generally, and food is no exception,” said Davies. “Many of the Madrid chefs we spoke to for the book were well past retirement age and still have a massive following. The philosophy in Madrid tends to be ‘if it ain’t broke …’”

That’s not to say there isn’t anything new and exciting happening with Madrid’s culinary scene.

“The current hipster scene par excellence is in Malasaña, which is awash with single-origin coffee bars, cupcake shops and restaurants focused on slow food [and] locavore principles,” said Davies.

“It’s easy to sneer, but the hipsters have brought some great improvements – craft beer! vegetarian food that tastes of something! – to the scene.”

There are so many great chefs in Madrid, there are simply too many to mention – but what stands out is the contrast, said Davies. One woman she spoke with had been making the same dish for more than 50 years. Another chef presented her with a deconstructed tortilla; he’s had his chef’s whites remade in denim and can claim Anthony Bourdain as a fan.

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When it comes to food, it’s hard to go wrong in Madrid.

But as in every Spanish city, “a good rule of thumb is to

“Tapas bars are everywhere”

avoid restaurants with laminated pictures of the food, or where waiters come out to the street to tout for business,” said Davies. However, there aren’t clearly defined ‘tourist zones’ in Madrid as there are elsewhere.

Aside from Madrid’s food markets, you’ll want to do as the locals do and go for tapas – such as calamari, cod and tripe – whether in a traditional taberna or trendy gastrobar. The Spanish even have their own verb for it: tapear, which means ‘to go for tapas.’ If you want to avoid eating with other tourists, stick to Spanish times – not before 2 p.m. for lunch and not before 9 or 10 p.m. for dinner, recommends Davies.

Los Austrias and the area south of the Plaza Mayor are best for old-school tabernas serving roast meat and stews, said Davies, along with the first of the gastro food markets, the Mercado de San Miguel. “Tapas bars are everywhere,” she said. “That’s one of Madrid’s greatest charms.”

Some of the best traditional tabernas can be found in the oldest parts of the capital, including Cava Baja, Cava Alta and Cava de San Miguel. For a don’t-miss foodie experience, head to the old tabernas around La Latina, recommends Davies. After all, she says, “they won’t be around forever.”

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Black Rabas (Black squid rings); Suquet (fish and potato stew); Cocido Madrileño (Madrid meat and chickpea stew); Paella Valenciana; Churros (Fried dough sticks dusted in sugar); The Bar at Casa Ricardo in Seville; Besugo a la Madrileña (Madrid-style sea bream)

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Spicing it up in the Land of Smiles… and chilies!

By ANITA DRAYCOTT

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“No one

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ever fails”

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#TacosFoodStand #MexicoCity

#ChocolateMuseum #MexicoCity

#bluecornTLACOYOS #Esquites #streetcorn #MexicoCity

#Mercado #MexicaSpices #FoodPorn

#FoodPorn #Ch

#Trompo# TacosAlPastor #TacoTuesday

#EyeCandy #Co 62 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

Paris, Rome and New York City may be the A-list gourmet destinations, but there is a new contender for passionate foodies to explore: Mexico City. By WAHEEDA HARRIS As the largest Spanish-speaking city on the planet, the Distrito Federal, or DF as many affectionately call #TraditionalTianguis #MexicoCity

the capital city of Mexico, is a destination that attracts visitors for its modern design, inventive architecture and, now, for its food culture. With a wide array of locally-sourced fresh ingredients, chefs are inspired by the city’s cuisine history to honour the past as well as pursue a tasty future.

From fresh and salty to smoky and spicy, diners can easily discover palate-pleasing tastes of Mexico City, whether it’s from street vendors or within the elegant confines of fine-dining restaurants. As a newbie to this foodie heaven, three tasting experiences helped me understand the variety of tastes that are part of the daily diet of Mexico City.

hurros #ElMoro #MexicoCity

olourfull #SpicedWatermelon #MexicoCity BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 63

#FondaMayora #Condesa #ChefCarlosBoj #ChefGelavu

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#ParqueMexico #Condesa #GreenSpac

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#Taqueria #Condesa #OutdoorFood 64 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

#StRegisLife #LaTableKrug #LuxuryD

ce

Dining #StRegisMexicoCity

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#StRegisLife #LuxuryDining #QuinoaSalad #StRegisMexicoCity

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Guide The

ON THIS PAGE: Sandy Lane’s Luxury Resort freshly made Tuna Tartare OPPOSITE PAGE: Barbados Sailing Boat

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D coding

BARBADOS

Tropical beauty meets British style and good food

By MURIEL PARAS

STAY EAT SEE DO

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They swim through the water like birds on the wing, flapping

S

their fins, flying, careening with a speed that we’d never see on land. Their natural habitat, and we share it, swim along side, brush our fingers along their patterned shells. teely blue-grey meets fresh

We can’t get enough of the surf, but dry land is calling. After

blue-green. Dark and light,

the Crane, its rum punches at Cutters, a local hangout where the

cool and warm. The Atlantic

drink’s been made with the same family recipe for decades. An

waves, while the Caribbean

elevated rum shack, it’s a cool spot to get the local vibe. And,

beckons with its calm. A haven

speaking of rum shacks, there are many, like roadside attractions,

for surfers, and for snorkelers,

but so much more hip. Bright little spots along the road, they

its coastline, strips of sun-

invite you to pull over, order a rum and ginger, and hang with

bleached sand.

fellow Bajans. Think of it as a pub or a café of the Caribbean,

From an Atlantic-side

where the neighbourhood heads out after work or after dinner

perch, sit and gaze across

to have a drink, hear a bit of gossip, share a bit of news, have

the water. On a clear day, you can see forever. And forever.

a laugh or two and then head on home to dreamland. All are

Barbados is the last island in the Caribbean, the easterly most,

welcome, and we feel it, as we stand around an old rum barrel

the farthest out to sea, before going straight on to Africa.

now used as ad-hoc table, sipping and grinning.

A British throwback, the island is still rather regal, but

Spa at The Fairmont, golf at The Royal Westmoreland, and then

with it’s own unique blend. Its oceans crossroads allow it an

sip rum punches at Mullins Bay Beach, dip your toes in the golden

absence of volcanoes. It is a coral island, with caves within its

sand and take in the sunset.

core, as deep as the island itself.

At the tail end of the island is Oistins, and it is here, every

Start at the Crane hotel, and its world famous pink beach.

Friday night, where you can really take in the vibe. It’s the fish fry,

Boogie boarders, baby boomers and babies share the sand, a

where the grills are out in full force, the Bajan music is blasting

swath of ocean-front on the Atlantic side that somehow allows

(you may even hear a little of Barbados’ homegirl Rihanna coming

the bathers into the water without the undertow of most of this

from the speakers), and aura is pure chill. People are hungry,

part of coast. There’s a natural breaker just out there, in the

they come to eat fresh-caught fish that go straight from the nets

sea far enough to go unnoticed, close enough to protect the

to the grill. Flying fish, king fish, grouper, all so fresh, the flesh

Crane beach from the slap and sting of the salt-soaked tides.

clean with just a hint of brine; smoked and charred on the grill, no

But the Atlantic side is not all violent, mind you. Take a drive, meander, wend your way up the coast. Nature needs

accoutrements required.

Sort of like Barbados itself. She is what she is. A dual

her meditative moments, even in the eye of the storm. There

personality, a calm turquoise surf under an orange sun; a roiling,

are pockets of serenity, at Bathsheba, where the bath-warm

rolling tide slamming the cliffs reminding us of Mother Nature’s

waters call for swimming and floating. A local Banks beer or

power. And powerful she is. To draw us here, and keep us here,

two to help beat the heat, and some would say after a day,

on the sand and in the sea.

they’re a Bajan too.

While the sporty and adventurous take on the challenges of the Atlantic side, the royal and refined retreat to the Caribbean coast of the island. Water so turquoise, so drenched in blue-green, it makes you want to rub your

BARBADOS

eyes at first, are you in focus? Yes, this is the real thing. There are shipwrecks below the waves, calling to snorkelers and scuba divers. Like a reef, the ships are a magnet for colourful marine life. A rainbow of sea creatures, and sea turtles.

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Balcony at the Crane Resort; The luxurious spa and pool at the Sandy Lane Resort; Oyster Ceviche at Cin Cin by the Sea Restaurant; Primo Bar and Bistro; The Animal Flower Cave; Oistin’s Fish Fry stall.

STAY

EAT

WHERE TO DROP YOUR BAGS THE CRANE St Philip, Barbados Recently named the “Best Caribbean Beach” by USA Today’s Top Ten Readers’ Choice Awards, the Crane resort hotel enjoys a spectacular location on the south-east coast, near the airport, but quite a distance from anything else. A Barbadian legend since 1887, and the oldest operating hotel in the Caribbean, the 50,000 square-foot Crane Village features award-winning restaurants, an open-air market, a 3,000 square foot Duty-Free emporium and a true taste of the best of Caribbean culture. thecrane.com SANDY LANE St James, Barbados Sandy Lane represents the ultimate in comfort, elegance and five-diamond service. The 112 opulent rooms and suites have marble floors, hi-tech amenities and large terraces.

The magnificent spa provides a range of treatments using Anne Sémonin and Aromatherapy Associates. The five-room Villa is the epitome of luxury. Set in its own gardens, and with its own dedicated team of staff, it is essentially a private home in the midst of one of the world’s great luxury resorts. Also new are luxury helicopter transfers that cut the time it takes guests to arrive at the resort from Grantley Adams International Airport down to a mere seven minutes. sandylane.com

TASTE Cin Cin by the Sea A refreshingly contemporary, elegant new restaurant offering ‘alfresco dining’ with sweeping views of the west coast of Barbados while serving quintessentially Mediterranean-style cuisine with a Caribbean twist. cincinbythesea.com PRIMO Bar & Bistro The new PRIMO Bar & Bistro (formerly Pisces Restaurant) in St Lawrence Gap is now open and brings a refined dining experience to the south coast. Primo features an uber trendy modern environment with panoramic ocean front dining. Enjoy delicious food and creative cocktails in a unique, rustic charm setting overlooking the tranquil bay. primobarandbistro.com

SEE & DO

SEE & DO Unique experience: Animal Flower Cave One of the most beautiful natural settings to be found in Barbados, on the north point of the island (St. Lucy’s parish). The natural sea cave opens directly into the Atlantic Ocean, with breathtaking views and cool rock pools to take a quick dip.

Must see: Mount Gay and St. Nicholas Abbey Rum Tour Both spots offer an exceptional glimpse into the history of rum in Barbados. The Mount Gay distillery is the oldest distillery in the world, making Barbados the birthplace of rum itself, while St. Nicholas Abbey gives visitors a history of plantations, along with a unique blend of its own rum. mountgayrum.com; stnicholasabbey.com DEFINITE MUST SEE: Oistin’s Fish Fry Fish market by day, street festival by night. You don’t want to miss a Friday Fish Fry at Oistins, where locals and visitors alike come out to dance, eat, drink and hang out.

Performers take the stage while local chefs fry up local fish (caught fresh that day), and artisans show their hand-crafted jewellery, art and more.

WHEN YOU GO From Toronto: Daily non-stop flights via Air Canada. As of December 19, a second flight will be running Mondays, Fridays and Saturdays, providing double daily seasonal flights until April 29, 2017 (excluding January 9 - February 11). Also 4 weekly flights via WestJet (Monday, Wednesday, Friday & Saturday)

Book with Air Canada and Westjet

From Montreal: No non-stop flights at the moment, though there’s an easy 1-hour connector flight to the daily airlift departing from YYZ. However, from December 24, 2016 - April 30, 2017 Air Canada will be running a seasonal direct service three days per week (Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday)

L

ocated on Playa del Carmen’s famous 5th Avenue, the Live Aqua Boutique Resort Playa del Carmen – formerly known as Hotel Cacao – is in the heart of the destination’s chic scene. Globetrotters are being immersed in a kicked-back, relaxed Hippie Chic lifestyle of sophisticated

accommodations and cutting-edge dining and mixology experiences.

The property is imbued with dramatic architectural elements such as a light-bathed central court with a hyacinth lily pond, bamboo, palms, birds of paradise and banana trees; and a huge canvas accents in geometric shapes that provide shade and protection from the elements.

The open-to-the-heavens roof-top bar features spectacular views of the Caribbean and Cozumel Island. The interior design is clean and contemporary with bold colour accents, Mexican travertine marble walls, tropical wood and stone floors, a flowing water-wall and many

HOW TO GET THERE Book your ticket with Aeromexico, your world-class airline to Mexico, Central and South America from Toronto, Montreal and Vancouver. Consult applicable routes on aeromexico.com or call 1-800-237-6639 70 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

intriguing special art and design touches, such as three antique native canoes, a front desk cut from the trunk of a massive ceiba tree and colourfully painted, shell-encrusted VWs by Tommy Hilfiger.

Feeling a bit adventurous? The hotel’s concierges will guide you on your quest to explore cenotes, archeological Mayan sites, water and adventure parks, Tulum and Cozumel Island, all just minutes away. liveaqua.com

Marlon Moreno

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GIVE PEACE A CHANCE,

ON POINTS.

ANY AIRLINE, ANY FLIGHT, ANY TIME. AVIONERS CAN DO THAT. ®

Lennon Wall, Prague

Subject to availability. Some restrictions may apply. For complete terms, visit rbc.com/travelredemption. ®/™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. ‡ All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s).