BMW Owners News for November 2023

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NOVEMBER 2023 www.bmwmoa.org


MADE FOR ADVENTURE

made for adventure.

TRAIL TESTED.

Photo: Oregon BDR

Iain Glynn GS Trophy Team ORBDR Expedition

ort for f m o c t h ig lightwe f o n tight io p t u a ls in a b e m s o c t “I like the g and the shield tha ridin off-road ing .” id r t e e r t for s

The Aventuro Carbon 2 is lightweight, has massive cooling air-flow, and reduces neck strain for riders with its low-drag peak. It’s also the official helmet of RideBDR. Call the Adventure Experts at Touratech: 1(800) 491-2926.

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The same parts department that keeps this 50 year old enduro running is available in your garage. With over 45,000 parts in-stock, the MAX BMW restoration center and parts department has everything you need to keep your new or vintage BMW motorcycle going. Our expert parts staff is here to fulfill your order from within our service department, not from a warehouse or remote call center. This means if you ever have a question, you can count on getting the right information from a staff of professionals who work on and around BMW Motorcycles all the time. With an unparalleled inventory and dedicated parts and technical staff, MAX BMW is here to make ordering parts for your motorcycle convenient and easy!

Shop our parts catalog at maxbmw.com Questions? Call us at 203-740-1270 or send an e-mail to francis@maxbmw.com


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HAPPENSTANCE IN ROHTANG LA

THE 10TH ANNUAL WAILIN' WAYNE WEEKEND

BY ALAN TONEY #124362

BY MARK THOMPSON #218859

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THE BEGINNING OF THE END OF THE BEGINNING BY DUSTIN SILVEY #224778

4 | HEADLIGHT Every Day a Thanksgiving by Bill Wiegand

30 | GEAR Sargent Heated Seat by Mark Barnes

8 | FROM THE BOARD It’s Up to All of Us by Chad Garcia

36 | KEEP 'EM FLYING Back in the Saddle by Matt Parkhouse

10 | POSTCARDS FROM THE ROAD

38 | TORQUE OF THE MATTER Winterizing your Bike by

12 | RIDER TO RIDER Letters from our Members 14 | NEWS MOA members can save 20% on the Helinox Zero Chair now through December 31, BMW Owners Anonymous book: Your Action is Needed, Celebrate Motorrad’s 100th at the Ultimate Driving Museum, Register for the 2024 MOA National Rally and receive a free travel bag, BMW announces the R 1300 GS, An Anniversary to Remember.

26 | GEAR A Clean Bike is a Happy Bike! 28 | GEAR Helite’s E-Turtle 2 vest by Mark Thompson

Wes Fleming

66 | ROAD TALES It’s Your Asphalt by Dave Cwi 70 | THE RIDE INSIDE Confidence Man-The Good Kind by Mark Barnes

74 | Welcome our Newest MOA Members 76 | WHEN AND WHERE Rally listings 79 | ADVERTISING INDEX 80 | TAILIGHT

ON THE COVER BMW Motorrad formally announces the long-anticipated R 1300 GS!


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HEADLIGHT

EVERY DAY A THANKSGIVING! “Don’t wait until the fourth Thursday in November, to sit with family and friends to give thanks. Make every day a day of Thanksgiving!” — Charmaine J. Forde

Growing up in the upper Midwest, November has always been a difficult month for me to endure. With the long, fun-filled days of summer now just a fading memory, the weeks of beautiful burning reds and glowing yellows coloring the maples and oaks surrounding my home are being replaced with a dreary shade of gray. Then, there’s the cooler temperatures the month delivers and the sweaters, jackets and heated gear I’ve not seen for months retaking their former places in the fronts of my closets and drawers. Meanwhile, in the garage, the preparation for the annual motorcycle hibernation has begun. Though the beginning of the month brings with it a deep sense of melancholy, that feeling will slowly fade as I realize November is the month reminding me to be thankful for all of the positive things in my life, like the opportunity to spend time with those close to me. As I get older, the time I spend with family and friends creating new memories becomes more precious. About 20 years ago, a group of three buddies and I got together in the early weeks of November at a cabin in the northern woods of Wisconsin. Despite not seeing each other for years, our friendship was quickly rekindled as we relived the glory days of our youth while sharing our experiences of our current lives. Scattered across three states and all focused on building careers and raising families, the four grade school friends, packed more experiences into that long weekend than could be imagined. We rode, golfed, gambled, rode some more, gambled again, ate, gambled yet again, then rode some more before finally calling it a day. After repeating all of that the next day, we left for home, knowing we had to do this again.

A year later and another great weekend of nonstop riding, golfing, gambling and eating, we knew we were on to something special, and this event not only needed a regular place on our calendars, but a name. With that, the “Stubannual” was officially christened and found a regular spot on our calendars each fall. For me, riding motorcycles can be enjoyed alone but is more gratifying when the experience is shared with like-minded friends. The camaraderie riders share creates a special bond hard to describe to nonriders. It’s clearly visible at any club or national rally I’ve ever attended, and I believe anyone who has ever attended a rally will agree with me. Riding friends separated by states or even countries who haven’t seen each other for months or even years instantly feel the connection and friendship that brought them together in the first place, and neither time nor distance can diminish that bond. Heck, I’ve even experienced this at gas stations, restaurants and other stops along my travels when another rider, regardless of whether they’re on a bike or not, will approach and strike up a conversation. I feel blessed to be part of this community and lucky to be a member of the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America, knowing I’ve got thousands upon thousands of friends, many of whom I haven’t met yet, scattered across the world. Matt, another friend from St. Matthew’s Grade School has now joined John, Jim, Rob and I for our yearly Stubannual. We may not be able to pack as much into our weekend together as we once did, but a Saturday afternoon nap added to our schedule is all we need to replenish our bodies for the fun that continues. Happy November and Happy Thanksgiving!

Bill Wiegand #180584 Managing Editor

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Surrounded by Beauty Ian Feinberg (#206734) stopped along Burr Trail Road, a 66-mile scenic backway winding through dramatic parts of Utah including Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, Capitol Reef National Park and Glenn Canyon National Recreation Area, to capture this image.

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November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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FROM THE BOARD

C H A D G A R C I A # 1 3 8 74 2 M OA S e c reta r y

IT'S UP TO ALL OF US As a new member of the Board as well as the new Secretary, I have been learning a lot about how the MOA operates. One thing I’ve seen firsthand is how this organization is primarily run by volunteers, with only a handful of paid employees. This is amazing, considering we have over 25,000 members and a bunch of events throughout the country. I joined the MOA after I bought my first BMW in 2009. I then joined my local Madison (Wisconsin) BMW club and went to a couple meetings each year in addition to one or two events. About six years ago, I decided to get more involved and started attended everything I could, which led to my first MOA National rally and my volunteering there. After that, my wife and I were hooked on the BMW crowd and the MOA. I became the president of the Madison BMW club a couple years ago and continued to do more volunteering within the MOA. This year my wife and I were the Rally RV chairs and we met so many awesome people who helped us with all the RV campers. BMW clubs, or any clubs or volunteer groups can only survive and thrive through the involvement of its members. The MOA is no different and needs your help to continue to maintain our membership–and even better, grow our membership. I am a firm believer that you only get out of anything what you put into it. The MOA is no different. I understand we all have way too many things going on in our lives. You will find that the more involved you get, the more you will want to do as you continue to meet more amazing people. The real question is how to get more involved. The answer is there are many ways to get more involved. You can join a local club and attend meetings, rides and outings. Talk to your riding friends about the MOA and share your copy of BMW Owners News with them. Contact your regional coordinator to see where you can help out, as there is always something going on. Attend rallies and volunteer to help–it truly is a great way to give back and meet likeminded people. Submit photographs or an article to the Owners News as well as to bmwownersnews.com. Be a part of the BMW Owners Anonymous book/app, as it is a great way to help others and if needed, get help yourself. Volunteer at a variety of areas at the National Rally or become a chair or co-chair of one of the many tasks needed to run our National Rally. Attend an MOA Getaway or take advantage of training opportunities at the BMW Performance Center. The MOA also has a mileage contest and Coddiwomple to get you out and about every year. When you meet up with someone riding a BMW, talk to them about the MOA and what is has to offer. It is up to all of us to continue to grow the MOA as well as to get the most out of this awesome organization. I have loved everything I have done with the MOA and look forward to meeting more members at events throughout the country. Thank you to the members for giving me the opportunity to serve and support the mission of the MOA.

Chad 8 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023


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POSTCARDS FROM THE ROAD

Right, A rusted and long-abandoned mill found near Paris, Kentucky. Photo by Jennifer Ott #215257. Below Left, David Marrier (#209759) found a foggy start to his morning recently while riding near his Wilton, New Hampshire, home. Below Right, A stop at California's Morro Bay State Park during a lunch ride. Photo by Gordon Rosete #82643.. Opposite Page Top Left, A shot from Kudzu Corner along Highway 16 near Tazewell, Virginia–The Back of the Dragon. Photo by Steve Abell #231093. Opposite Page Top Right, Windy Point on the edge of Abraham Lake in western Alberta, Canada. Photo by Marlen Padberg #212161. Opposite Page Middle Left, A shot from Nova Scotia on the way to the 2023 MOA National Rally in Virginia. Photo by Edgar Williams #104282. Opposite Page Bottom, Chasing the Super Moon across northern Maine en route to Prince Edward Island. Photo by Matt Hines #221850.

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Each month we publish the great images sent to us by BMW MOA members from their travels around the globe. Send us your best images and you could have your work published in our Postcards from the Road pages. Email your high resolution images, image description and contact information to editor@ bmwmoa.org.

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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RIDERTORIDER Send your letters and comments to: editor@bmwmoa.org

A Perfectly Believable Story

As I was just completing a somewhat rough ride on my porcelain American Standard, I also finished reading “Captain Carbonite’s” (aka. K-Zar!!) story (“A Perfectly Believable Story with a Happy Ending,” October 2023) of fantasy, fiction, and frivolity. The destination of which he speaks, referring to a “place in New Jersey” can only be at one location. It must be somewhere near the Newark Airport sewer depot that collects the discarded rainwater runoff and actually stores it in the vast tanks lining the highways. The liquid stored to create his claimed gin and ice can be the only reason that after he consumes said elixir, transforms a somewhat normal thought pattern, into a weird potion that “illuminates his mind.” This combination of “trumpet tree tea,” mushrooms and some really old LSD, has to be what he calls gin. I personally like gin, but I’ll sip mine in Florida on the beach looking at green eyed sirens in their miniscule bikinis, thank you. Bob LeClair #218775 Port Orange, Florida

Thanks Ray Tubbs

I wanted to take a few moments to thank Ray Tubbs for his MOA service. I first talked to Ray during the fall of 2022. The local charter club’s longtime president and his wife the treasurer were relocating out of state. With no one else available, I took over the leadership of the Derby City Beemers. My first call, even before officially agreeing to become president, was to the MOA. Ray was the person that returned my call. From that first contact Ray guided me through each process as needed. His many years of involvement with the MOA made him a huge source of knowledge for a rookie like myself. I can’t say enough positive things

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about Ray and the help he provided to the Derby City Beemers. I was sad to hear that Ray was stepping back from his position at the MOA. I wish Ray all the best in his future endeavors. I hope one day, I can get down to Alabama to join you for a ride. Fred Bramblett #101458 Vine Grove, Kentucky

Love my Grip Buddies

I, too, have experience using Grip Buddies and Grip Puppies (“Grip Buddies Lite,” Mark Barnes 10/23 issue). I find both products quite useful. I stored my Grip Buddies (i.e. Beemer Buddies) in what I called my “Slab Kit,” which has been missing for a while now. In this sandwich bag I had Buddies grip covers, throttle lock devices and other convenient items for when it came time to ride the interstate long distances. What I liked about the Grip Buddies was the ability to install them on or off in seconds. Grip Puppies are more of a permanent accessory, especially if the motorcycle has handguards. With the Buddies, I never actually glued down the securing strip’s adhesive backing onto the handlebar grip. When I wanted to put them on, I’d just hold the hook strip really well in place as I stretched the neoprene panel with loops around the stock grip and into place. Thanks for reviewing these, Mark. I’ll have to order a new set of Grip Buddies and build myself a new Slab Kit! Jon DelVecchio #208163 Churchville, New York

A Great Resource

On a recent trip from the Pacific coast of California and Oregon I had occasion to use the BMW Owners Anonymous book.

After crossing the Cascade Mountain range, I coasted into Sisters, Oregon, on a Thursday afternoon with a failed clutch. I realized the problem was a failure in the hydraulic clutch system. After collecting my thoughts, I recalled that I had downloaded the BMW Owners Anonymous app on my mobile phone. I texted the two riders listed in Sisters and one owner in Bend, Oregon, and all three answered within minutes! Not only that, but all three offered timely assistance and advice. One rider in Sisters offered immediate help which I gratefully accepted, while the rider in Bend strongly recommended the independent pro shop, M-Tech (in Bend) for the repair work. The trip delay lasted over the weekend but the assistance and the friendliness of these two fellow riders converted a troubling dilemma into a delightful addition to my adventure (which included a Saturday ride on a borrowed motorcycle!). The timely and expert service provided by M-tech in Bend got me on my way on Tuesday morning. The BMW Owners Anonymous is a great resource! Richard Luoma #155274 Backus, Minnesota

Saved by my Gear

I am writing this with the hope it might help others. It was a beautiful day, and I was on an Appalachian BMW group ride heading South on 178 towards South Carolina. I entered a tight left-hand turn, and I ran out of road. I dropped my front wheel over the edge of the pavement and immediately steered it back onto the road. I remember my bike leaning sharply to the left, and my next memory was flying through the air looking down at the pavement. I flew diagonally across the road–my own Marc Marquez moment. The impact was like


nothing I have ever felt. I was wearing full gear including a Klim jacket and pants with a high protection rating, an AGV helmet and good boots. Most important of all I was wearing an Alpinestars Tech5 airbag vest, the kind with short sleeves that cover your shoulders. I landed on my right shoulder and my left hand hit the pavement with force. After a long, painful ambulance ride and multiple X-rays, it turned out I had broken the tip of my left thumb and severed a ligament on my ring finger. No rib damage, and not even a bruise on my shoulder. The paramedics treating me just shook their heads and kept saying, “This gear just saved you.” I am deeply grateful to my friends in the BMW club who took care of me, and even delivered my bike to the dealer. I am also grateful for the technology we have available today to protect us. We are all free to decide how much protection we need, but I am never going out again without my airbag vest. Rick del Monte #222847 Asheville, North Carolina

Love my Redverz Tent

I’ve owned a Redverz Solo tent for four or five years. I’d just like to point out some advantages of a tent like this for the average BMW rider, not necessarily the hard-core camper. My first real tent was a rather pricey and

well-made Nemo two-person tent. I like Nemo stuff, but this tent has inflatable “poles.” You use a foot-pump, which you had to carry, to blow up these semi-circular noodles, then stake down the rest. It works but it’s not quick. It’s a good little tent, but it’s little. You can sit up easily, and it has two entrances and all the rest of the good stuff, but there’s a lot of scooting and scrunching that has to go on with any tent this size. I was about ready to quit camping. A friend got a Redverz Expedition tent. We went on a trip to an East Coast rally and set up in a near-empty field. The difference in size between his tent and mine was hilarious. After struggling in my tent all night, I noticed he was in the lap of luxury. Hmmm, maybe this circus tent might be a good idea? I ordered a Redverz Solo within two weeks of arriving home. I took the tent to a national rally. This is where they really shine. Not only can you stand up in them, but you can use the garage to put a folding camp chair in, change your boots, pants etc, organize gear and just rest in privacy. When there are hundreds of tents all bunched up, this is really pretty nice. For single gentlemen, a yellow-colored screw top liter plastic jar can be utilized as indoor plumbing when the port-a-potty has a long line of waiters. You can’t be seen and you can stand up. How great is that? Sadly, Redverz doesn’t offer the Solo version currently. Can we all please

petition them to make another batch? They are terrific. The Solo’s ground cloth can be bunched in with the tent in the supplied expedition-sized stuff sack. No disassembly required, just put the whole kit in there. Lay it out over a motorcycle in your garage to dry when you get home, then brush it off dry and repack. Great stuff. Tom Brown #86050 Geneva, Illinois

Thanks Jason

I found Jason Weilnau’s article on family riding and the need for proper training (August 2023 issue) really hit home for me. As a certified MSF instructor, I definitely agree with everything he said about getting properly trained to get off on the right foot and making the continuation of education and correct practice a lifelong pursuit. I have also had a similar very enjoyable experience of watching my wife take up riding some nine months behind me, and we have been each other’s “best ridin’ bud” for the past 28 years. The things we’ve seen, the places we’ve been, and the friends we have made through motorcycling—well, you know how it goes! Just wanted to say what a great article it was and how much I enjoyed it. While I am at it, I wanted to say my favorite part of the BMW Owners News and always my first read is anything/everything Mark Barnes is writing! Tom Sigerfoos #227527 Mineral Bluff, Georgia

WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU!

Each month, the Rider to Rider pages of BMW Owners News detail the successes, failures, wishes and frustrations we all face as riders, BMW motorcycle owners, customers and individuals. As a BMW MOA member, these are your pages and we want to know what’s on your mind. Got something to get off your chest? Tell us about it. Know a business that deserves to be recognized? Tell us about it. Got a riding or tech tip that we could all benefit from? Tell us about it. Got a suggestion for BMW Motorrad? You know the drill–Tell us about it! There’s only one rule and that’s to stick to the subject that brings us all here–motorcycling, so save political rants for Facebook! Send your thoughts to editor@bmwmoa.org and lets all work to build a better community.

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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NEWS

BMW Owners Anonymous Book: Your Action is Needed If you haven't done so already, now is your chance to opt in and continue receiving the print edition of the BMW Owners Anonymous Book. While we encourage every member to download and use the BMW Owners Anonymous App, we are committed to providing a print copy for any member who would like to receive one. Since January 1, 2021, the default option has been the BMW Owners Anonymous app, and we include instructions on how to download and use the app for any member and include this information in every new member package that we send out. MOA members can choose to opt in or out as they like by logging in to their member profile on the MOA website. For more information and detailed instructions on how to activate and update your BMW Owners Anonymous information, visit the MOA website at bmwmoa.org/abook. Should you need additional assistance, please call the MOA office at 864-438-0962.

Save 20% on the Helinox Zero Chair now through December 31st With the introduction of Chair Zero, Helinox sets a standard of a strong, Using the new BMW extremely lightweight, and packable chair that has yet to be matched. Owners Anonymous App Featuring proprietary 7000 series aluminum, strong nylon resin As we DAC shift to a digital model for the BMW Owners Anonymous Book, here’s an to and primer on the BMW Owners Anonymous App. To downhubs and super durable fabric,introduction the Helinox Chair Zero delivers outstandload and use the app, head over to the Google Play or Apple App Store. Use the “SEARCH” function and search for “bmw moa anonymous” to find the app. ing comfort, strength, and support at just 17 ounces. Through a special partnership with Helinox, BMW MOA members save 20% on the purchase of a Helinox Chair Zero at Helinox.com. To receive the 20% discount, MOA members should use the discount code BMWmotoclub2023 at checkout. The MOA member discount is valid through December 31, 2023.

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Celebrate Motorrad's 100th at the Ultimate Driving Museum The BMW CCA Foundation, alongside the BMW Performance Center, will be celebrating 100 years of adventure on BMW motorcycles at the Ultimate Driving Museum in Greer, South Carolina on November 17-18, 2023. The two-day event will feature BMW Brand Ambassadors Neale Bayly and Shawn Thomas along with BMW historian Jackie Jouret, author of BMW Motorcycles: A Century of Innovation and many other titles. Your ticket will also grant you complimentary access to “BMW Motorcycles: A Century of Innovation” exhibit at The Ultimate Driving Museum, as well as the VIP Reception at the BMW Zentrum. The evening event will be held at BMW Zentrum from 6 to 9 p.m. Enjoy dinner while you browse the cars located at Zentrum and meet our distinguished guests and your fellow enthusiasts. Beer and wine will be available for purchase. Visit theultimatedrivingmuseum.org/events for more information and to register.

Register for the Rally and Stow your Gear! BMW MOA members who register for the 2024 Ridin’ to Redmond National Rally during November will also receive an MOA travel bag. The handy travel bag is the perfect size for organizing grooming items or a handful of necessary tools to slip inside the saddlebag. The limited-edition travel bag features the BMW MOA’s 50th anniversary colors. The Ridin’ to Redmond National Rally takes place June 13-16, 2024, in Redmond, Oregon. Early registration for the National is open now and only costs $79, including the handy tote. To register for the Rally and secure your MOA travel bag, visit rally. bmwmoa.org or call the membership team at (864) 438-0962. Once registered, members will receive instructions via email to redeem their free travel bag.

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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NEWS

THE NEW R 1300 GS More than 43 years ago, BMW Motorrad established a new segment for touring enduros with the R 80 G/S. The boxer BMW GS has been the undisputed leader in this competitive field ever since. To ensure this remains the case, BMW Motorrad has opted for an almost completely new design for the new R 1300 GS, with a weight saving of 26 lbs. compared to the previous model. BMW Motorrad has completely redesigned their original two-cylinder

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boxer engine for the new BMW R 1300 GS. The new boxer has a capacity of exactly 1,300 cc with a bore of 106.5 mm and stroke of 73 mm. This increase in displacement comes from an enlarged cylinder bore and a new crankshaft with reduced stroke. The new motor has an output of 145 hp (predecessor: 136 hp), still at 7,750 rpm, and develops a maximum torque of 110 lb-ft at 6,500 rpm (predecessor: 105 lb-ft at 6,250 rpm), making it the most powerful serial production BMW boxer

engine to date. In addition to the increased maximum output, the new BMW R 1300 GS benefits from a notable increase in torque across the entire rpm range, especially between 3,600 and 7,800 rpm, where more than 96 lb-ft is constantly available. This makes the new R 1300 GS more potent than ever before, combining enormous pulling power with impressive peak output. Despite a significant increase in power and torque, the fuel consumption of the


new BMW R 1300 GS is almost identical to that of its predecessor. The new boxer engine sets standards in terms of smoothness, too, offering a more direct response to throttle commands while the improved positioning of the engine within the frame also increases vibration damping. The six-speed gearbox and clutch have been integrated in the engine housing in the new R 1300 GS. The gearbox is no longer located behind the engine,

however, but underneath it. The advantages of this new arrangement are a reduced overall length in improved packaging and weight balance since it was possible to make the transmission shafts significantly shorter. Compared to the power unit of the predecessor models, it was possible to achieve a weight saving of 8.6 lbs. for the engine and 14.3 lbs. overall for the entire powertrain. At the same time, the greater concentration of mass towards the center

of gravity of the motorcycle ensures better handling qualities. As before, power is transmitted to the six-speed gearbox via a wet clutch with ten lining discs and a self-reinforcing anti-hopping mechanism. Output is via two spur gears, one of which has an integrated vibration damper. In the interests of increased shifting precision, the gearbox now has a sensor signal transmitter for the optional Shift Assistant Pro using a torsion magnet.

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NEWS

This delivers a more direct feel when shifting gears. The driveshaft and rear axle assembly have also been newly designed. The driveshaft now has larger universal joints, a reduced angle reduces the deflection of the rotational mass that is inherent in cardan shaft joints. The rear axle has been redesigned and now has a longer wheel axle stub for easier mounting and dismounting of the rear wheel. The boxer engine of the new BMW R 1300 GS is equipped with BMW’s ShiftCam technology for varying the valve timing and valve stroke on the intake side. At the heart of this technology is a single-section intake shift camshaft which has a partial-load and a full-load cam for each valve to be actuated, each with a different cam geometry that has been recalculated for the R 1300 GS. While the partial-load cam has been configured to ensure optimized fuel consumption and refinement, the full-load cam is designed for optimized output. The intake cams for the left and right-hand intake valves of the partialload cam differ in stroke and position. This phase shift means that the two intake valves are opened to different degrees and on a time-staggered basis. The effect of this is to create a swirl and

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therefore greater agitation of the fuel-air mixture flowing into the combustion chamber. As a result, the new BMW R 1300 GS benefits from even more effective combustion and fuel utilization. The 2-in-1 stainless steel exhaust system of the new R 1300 GS has been designed for optimum output and torque in conjunction with BMW ShiftCam technology and for very low weight. It enables a very wide power and torque curve, thereby ensuring the best possible rideability and performance– whether on the road, off-road or on extended tours. Exhaust gasses are treated by a closed-loop catalytic converter controlled by an oxygen sensor. In this way, the new R 1300 GS complies not just with current exhaust standards, but is equipped to meet future requirements as well. The new R 1300 GS now includes four rather than three riding modes. The “Rain” and “Road” riding modes allow riding characteristics to be adapted to most road conditions. The “Eco” riding mode makes it possible to use the innovative BMW ShiftCam technology to maximize the range for every tank of fuel. In this riding mode, a gentle throttle curve and moderate torque limitation promote a riding style that is as economical as possible. In order to provide visual

support for a riding style geared towards optimized fuel consumption, an efficiency indicator in the upper status line of the TFT color screen provides feedback when “Eco” mode is activated. If maximum performance is required–e.g., on hills or when passing–it is simple to quickly switch to another riding mode using the riding mode button. The riding mode “Enduro” enables an enhanced riding experience off the beaten track with a specific set-up for off-road use. The new R 1300 GS can be fitted with optional “Riding Modes Pro” which includes the additional riding modes “Dynamic”, “Dynamic Pro” and “Enduro Pro.” In addition, the “Dynamic Pro” and “Enduro Pro” riding modes each allow individualization. Engine drag torque control (MSR) is standard. This feature can be used to safely avoid unstable riding conditions that can occur during coasting or downshifting due to excessive brake slip at the rear wheel. In these cases, MSR opens the throttle valves at lightning speed to such an extent that drag torque is equalized and the motorcycle stabilizes. Like the engine, the entire frame and suspension of the new BMW R 1300 GS were redesigned. The center piece is the new steel sheet metal main frame, which


in addition to a significant optimization of the installation space for even more compact packaging also offers higher levels of stiffness than the predecessor model. In the course of the redesign, the rear frame was also completely reconceived. In place of the previous tubular steel construction, the new R 1300 GS now has a rear frame made of die-cast aluminum. In addition to excellent stiffness levels and low weight, this new solution also has advantages in terms of optimized installation space as well as

offering a high degree of freedom for innovative design. For example, a short, slim, and dynamic rear end in the new R 1300 GS forms a significantly stiffer bond with the main frame compared to its predecessor. This results in a noticeable increase in riding precision and stability. In combination with a drive unit that is now much more compact, the new design of the suspension achieved a significant concentration of mass towards the center of gravity, which is reflected in noticeable handling benefits.

At the same time, the new R 1300 GS is even more precise and stable when braking, requires noticeably less effort to ride, and offers an even more satisfyingly precise response of the suspension components. With the new Evo Telelever, BMW Motorrad now combines the strengths of the two previously used Telelever variants. Clamped tightly to the fork tubes–as previously in the sporty design–the upper fork construction incorporates a handlebar decoupling

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NEWS

system that prevents any detrimental tilting movement and only transmits steering forces. The tubular handlebar is clamped in a handlebar bridge via two clamps. The connection from the handlebar bridge to the upper fork bridge is the core element of this construction: a strikingly showcased stainless steel plate – the so-called flex element. Due to its flexibility and geometric design, it can compensate for the tilting movement while at the same time transmitting steering forces. The actual upper fork bridge is pivotally and rotatably connected via a radial swivel bearing to a sturdy steering shaft tube, which in turn is guided in the main frame via a cylindrical roller bearing at the top and a deep groove ball bearing at the bottom. This sophisticated construction creates significantly greater rigidity, which is reflected in the noticeably

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increased ride stability of the new R 1300 GS. The simultaneous addition of an extra roller bearing for the ball joint in the lower fork bridge also ensures thrilling steering precision due to the lower bearing friction. The diameter of the quick-release axle, which is approximately 1.7 oz. lighter, has been increased by 0.2 inches to 1.0 inches, increasing the stiffness of the front wheel guide. The rear suspension of the new R 1300 GS has also been redesigned. The hallmark of the revised Evo Paralever is a significantly stiffer connection via the suspension in the frame, which has been extended for greater traction, and a continuous swinging arm quick-release axle. In addition, the swinging arm bearing is arranged off-axis to the axis of rotation of the cardan shaft joint. The spring travel is 7.5 inches at the front and 7.9 inches at the rear.

The previous Dynamic ESA Next Generation electronic suspension offered a high level of ride safety and riding fun on a wide variety of terrain with its dynamic adjustment of the damping and adjustable rear spring rest. The new electronic Dynamic Suspension Adjustment (DSA) now goes one step further, combining the dynamic adjustment of the front and rear damping with a corresponding adjustment of the spring rate–depending on the selected riding mode, riding condition and maneuvers. The automatic adjustment of the spring rest ensures load compensation. This makes for an even more thrilling riding experience on all surfaces. Whether solo, with a passenger or with luggage–DSA ensures an even higher level of ride safety, performance and comfort. DSA significantly simplifies usability due to better integration in


different riding modes and therefore worlds of experience. Within these worlds of experience, the riding modes can be individualized by means of click-setting in the vehicle settings menu, offering a wealth of options for customizing the new R 1300 GS to suit personal preferences. Additionally, the new BMW R 1300 GS comes with the new Riding Assistant, which consists of Active Cruise Control (ACC), Front Collision Warning (FCW) and Lane Change Warning (SWW). “With the new Riding Assistant featuring Active Cruise Control, Front Collision Warning and Lane Change Warning, we offer a safety package in the new R 1300 GS that is unprecedented in this segment,” said Markus Hamm, Functional Development Control Systems BMW Motorrad. BMW Motorrad is regarded as the pioneer when it comes to motorcycling safety and related innovations. Accordingly, the new R 1300 GS offers a new, standard, very small and attractive full LED headlamp with a novel, distinctive light icon. This illuminates the road with unrivalled clarity, thereby ensuring better visibility in traffic. State-of-the-art LED light units with newly designed LED turn indicators–integrated in the hand protectors at the front, function-integrated at the rear–round off the lighting concept of the new R 1300 GS. “In the new BMW R 1300 GS we’ve focused on honing the GS concept even further. The new design is defined by integration and modularity, thereby offering optimum performance and functionality for all riders. The components have been arranged as efficiently as possible to achieve an integrative architecture and stunning looks – entirely in the tradition of the legendary GS flyline,” said Christian Hahn-Wörnle, Vehicle Design BMW R 1300 GS. For complete information on the new R 1300 GS, visit your local BMW Motorrad dealership.

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

21

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NEWS

An Anniversary to Remember 100 years of Beemers is more than a cause for a celebration. It is a testimony to the work and dedication that created both an iconic brand and a series of products that are at once both functional and pieces of rolling art. While none of us were around at the beginning with Max Friz and the birth of the horizontally opposed twins, many remember the half century mark. The last 50 years have been a wonderful complement to the first five decades. While there have been any number of centennial celebrations around the world, none could top what happened during the weekend of September 23, 2023, at Todd Trumbore’s place in Pennsylvania. For one, you can’t escape the irony of it being held in the town of Harleysville. Beyond that, however, the warm hospitality of Todd and his wife Laura are simply beyond compare. The location for this event was in the rolling hills that are the farm country north of Philadelphia. The wonderful, meandering, routes that grace the area were originally established in modern times by people who came from Germany and surrounding central European countries. The area retains a very loose tie with Deutschland, which made it particularly appropriate for this event. And, while many locals were certainly part of the experience, we also had folks from as far away as Alaska, Colorado and west Texas join in the celebration. Sometimes, perhaps days or even years later, we realize that we were part of a magical moment that created great memories or, perhaps, even changed the trajectory of our lives. One thing that was sure about this event? There was no need to wonder about the impact. It was immediate and with the clear sense that with every passing moment, memories that would last a lifetime were being created. There was also a bit of sensory overload happening at times, which required a walk-about to smell the flowers and the delicious smell of Beemer exhaust in equal measures. For the event, Todd Trumbore lined up an amazing all-star cast of guests from around the BMW world, with origins going back as far as the 1960s. To get inside the details on the products, the racing, and the survival of the company in lean times, this was THE place to be in 2023. We were thrilled to have Hans Muth agree to join us, although he did warn us that “at 88 years old, next Tuesday sounds like long term planning.” That proved to be a prophetic statement because the day before he was to leave Stuttgart, he was admitted to the hospital for emergency surgery to correct a serious issue impacting his vision. Before he left for the hospital, however, he sent us his notes! Todd and I took them and created a PowerPoint presentation which framed what Hans wanted to share. It also allowed us to build in a level of personal context

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Udo Geitl, a primary innovator of the Superbike era who helped transform a gentleman's touring motorcycle into a championship-winning Superbike.

which framed how significant the work he did was and the impact it had on so many of us in the BMW world. It was well received and was a terrific on-ramp into what came next. Helmut Dahne, acclaimed long distance motorcycle racer and champion, provided terrific insights on what it was like to work as both a mechanic at BMW, then later to pilot machines around such amazing and storied places as the Isle of Man TT, the


ROBERT McISA AC #10494

Hockenheimring and the Nürburgring. So many great stories included how he built an R 69 S back in the day from spare parts he purchased at a BMW employee “scratch and dent” sale. He looks like he could grab his iconic red leathers tomorrow and go hunting apexes with pretty much anything in the Beemer collection from the Zentrum in Munich. Conveniently, he still lives in Munich! Helping us all understand the way in which maximum power and performance were extracted from the fabled boxer (247) motor, Udo Gietl took us on a magical trip through the experiments, the tests, the mistakes and ultimately the huge successes that made the R 90 S machines the pinnacle of performance in the racing world in 1976. In the hands of Steve McLaughlin and Reg Pridmore, the Daytona Orange machines with “the old German airplane engines” took flight against the mighty multi-cylinder machines from Japan and won convincingly. Udo still comes across as a bit of a mad scientist (in a wonderfully charming way) as he talks about extracting just a little more power from those wonderful big twins. Building on the foundation set with Udo’s design and mechanical feats, Steve McLaughlin next shared a fascinating set of tales about what it was like to pilot those machines around magical

places like Daytona, Loudon and Laguna Seca. He also had amazing stories about working with both the German and Japanese manufacturers of the day. His stories about the challenges of getting Japanese bikes in the ‘70s to actually handle were both funny and frightening. Tank slappers and knee slappers are apparently two different things, connected through masterful storytelling. Steve also had a great family legacy to share, predating even his own father’s fabled racing career in the 1940s and ‘50s. The family legacy included ties to both Hollywood and the Motorsport world in Southern California. He showed pictures of his dad working with James Dean at one point in 1955 and shots of an uncle who worked with Carroll Shelby and was at LeMans in 1966. One can only imagine the conversations over dinner in their home. He also shared insightful moments about what it took to design “kit” back in those days, and how they worked in places like the wind tunnel at Cal Tech to perfect designs. Some of the stories about the creativity and innovations also showed the unintended consequences of their work. Perfecting the aerodynamics of the tail sections of racing bikes, for example, created open expanses where sponsor logos could be placed. Something that made them handle better also eased the

Daren Dortin, host of the Airheads 247 podcast, moderates a panel discussion with Tom Cutter, Elspeth Beard, Helmut Dahne, Steve McLaughlin and Udo Gietl.

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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NEWS

financing for teams. Nice combo if you can get it! Dave Roper, the only American to ever win the Isle of Man TT, also shared some magical moments around what it was like to explore storied racetracks at speed. Dave continues to do this to this day, sharing contemporary stories about “Team Obsolete” and how they keep their vintage racing gear in top form and on the track. We moved from high performance machines to endurance tests of both rider and equipment. Elspeth Beard shared the inspiring story of being the first British woman to circumnavigate the globe on a motorcycle. In her case the machine of choice was an R 60/6 and the trip started in 1982. Two years later she returned to the UK but found little interest in what she had accomplished. As she said, everything went into the back of the garage, and she got on with her life. The 2017 book which chronicled the story changed all of that, and as we approach the 40th anniversary of her return home, many are captivated by what she’d done. Parallels to what Lindbergh did in the 1920’s are not inappropriate. The human-interest stories along the way were also inspiring. Stories of human kindness and help in dire situations highlighted her talk. She described, for example, an accident in Thailand where she was injured after an encounter with a dog. A family nursed her back to health, and it was only later she learned that the dog hadn’t survived the accident but had made for some “fine dining” through the course of her stay. Good to know on many levels. The stories Elspeth shared made it clear that the book will make for captivating reading in the coming months. In some quiet time between events, she and I shared some more stories. Hers involved parts of the journey in India or Pakistan. Mine involved my first solo BMW venture when I was 20 on my own R 60/5. Before I left to tour New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Virginia, North Carolina and Delaware, my father shared a tip on what to do if I had a flat tire and there was no surface on which to use a center stand. Sure enough, somewhere on a sandy barrier island off the DelMarVa coast, the tire puncture happened. I carefully laid the Toaster over on the right pannier, and a complete stranger in a clapped-out Chevy pickup stopped to help. The story had a happy ending, with Elspeth and I laughing at all we learned on those trips. And, of course, the sharing of those stories from long ago now creates the opportunity to create new stories now. We are enriched by the adventures and grow wise from the lessons learned. Speaking of lessons learned, there’s a lifetime of insights that David and Emy Woodburn shared from their 11-year journey around the world with a baby in tow on a side-hack equipped BMW. This was also chronicled in their book which is a thoughtful summary of adventures had, lessons learned and challenges overcome. Both funny and thoughtful, they too found caring and helpful people wherever they went. The trips were not without challenges of course and in typical Aussie humor David noted that when things went sideways, the appropriate line apparently is something like “Holy cow, mate, how much **** can a koala

24 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023

bear?” Waves of laughter washed over the pavilion. The Beemers on site were many, varied, and wonderful: a bike from the 1930s and enough R 90S examples to make you think they were common. R 100 RS examples from across the production run, and many others reflected the brilliance of Max Friz, Hans Muth and many contributors along the way. This included a non-CFO 1977 RS which bore the serial number 001. During the event, Todd Trumbore added this to his prodigious collection in a ceremony we all participated in. It was also perfect timing for Udo Gietl to share that the bike sported a replacement fairing. Apparently, back in ‘77 he had an unfortunate incident with a Coke bottle which required new parts and fresh paint. Like peeling an onion, the stories get better as you dive in deeper. The first two days offered stunningly nice weather. The last two, not so much, as we were visited by a large tropical storm. Despite that, the show played on with more presentations, more food, and a panel discussion hosted by Daren Dortin from the “Airhead 247” podcast. Hearing members of what can only be described as BMW Motorcycle Royalty recount their own experiences from the past and projections for the future made for great fun and periodic clashes over things like how Beemers will evolve into the future. Yogi Berra once said, “It is difficult to make projections, especially about the future.” While there are clearly many challenges to overcome, Steve McLaughlin’s assessment rang particularly well. Problems are there to be solved, and we can do remarkable things when we put our minds to it. We can’t change the past, and we can’t live in the future, and getting the most we can from each and every day is both a gift and an opportunity. Thanks to Todd and all the team that made this event possible. As the recovery from this rally began on Sunday morning over coffee and donuts, plans were already underway to make the next one even better. Riding on into the future seems to be a brilliant idea. Time to start planning for those future trips can start now!

Rob McIsaac (#10494) lives and plays in Clayton, North Carolina, a part of the Research Triangle Park Region. He joined the BMW MOA in 1977, shortly after acquiring a LWB R 60/5. Since then, a series of airhead and oilhead Beemers have graced his garage, all built in the 20th century. His enjoyment of motorcycling, and in particular BMW’s, is directly traced to the day his father brought home a new R 90/6. In his spare time, he now joyfully spends time with his four grandchildren who are intrigued with his fascination with two-wheeled motoring. The latest project is a recently “adopted” 1979 R 100 RS.


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Cleaning Products A clean bike is a happy bike! Whether you’re doing the bare minimum or digging deep into every nook and cranny, there is a cleaning product perfectly suited to your to-do list.

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The ECSTAR Motorcycle Wash is specially formulated to leave your motorcycle sparking clean. Removes dirt, grease and road film while leaving a lustrous shine. ECSTAR is Yamaha’s house brand of chemicals and cleaners.

26 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023

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Honda Spray Cleaner revzilla.com

The #1-selling cleaner and polish, consider this exclusive Honda formula a complete detailer in a can. Cleans road grime, grease and bugs without water; polishes and protects paint, chrome, glass andclear plastic. Great for helmets!

Muc-Off Nano Tech Motorcycle Cleaner us.muc-off.com

No matter how much mud or grime is on your bike, our Nano Tech Motorcycle Cleaner will make light work of it, every single time. Muc-Off breaks down dirt and grime on a molecular level and is fully biodegradable, free from acids, solvents and CFCs. Safe on all surfaces, including carbon fiber.

S100 Total Cycle Cleaner s100.com

S100 Total Cycle Cleaner works differently from other cleaning solutions by creeping to find the hidden soils you can’t see, then penetrating and loosening them so a sharp stream of water can remove them. The result is a bike that is clean everywhere, not just where can see. Available in aerosol and liquid form in a variety of sizes.

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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GEAR

Helite's E-Turtle 2 vest Courtesy of decades of racing, I know way too much about crashing. The number one lesson is this: You rarely (mostly never) get to pick when and where it happens. One second, you’re riding along enjoying the day, a microsecond later you’re airborne and heading for a very rough landing. An airbag vest or jacket can save you from injury because it’s always monitoring the situation and responds in just 60 to 80 milliseconds (0.06 hundredths of a second). How fast is that? Well, blink once. That’s 100 to 150 milliseconds. Motorcycle airbag systems are like being wrapped in a thick layer of bubble wrap in less than a second’s notice. The most vulnerable parts of your body, your core, neck and back get protection. If you still need convincing, just read the buyer testimonials from riders who have “tested” one (Revzilla is a good place to find them). While working the registration table last summer at the MOA National Rally in Richmond, I noted how many just-arrived riders were sporting airbag gear. Well, BMW riders are known to be ATGATT fans, so perhaps no surprise. It adds another layer of protection. The electronic package built into the E-Turtle 2 vest wraps you in 360-degree protection fed by multiple sensors that cover a wide range of accident situations beginning at low (0 mph/km) speed and any angle of impact. The large airbag volume of the E-Turtle 2 provides both frontal, neck and full back protection and carries a SAS-TEC 1621 Level 2 rating. It is a CE Certified system. The E-Turtle charges up easily, although not quickly. When brand new, expect to charge the vest overnight, after that maybe five hours. The provided power cable plugs into any 5-volt USB charger that delivers between 1 and 2.4 amps–don’t use high-amp quick chargers

28 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023

as they’re dangerous to the electronics. A full charge delivers a claimed 25 hours of use before needing a recharge. I did not tally the actual hours of use when I first started wearing it, but I went a month of regular rides, over many days, and the vest never issued the orange LED “charge me up!” warning. To arm the Turtle, you give the power button on the front of the jacket three quick pushes and watch for first a red LED followed by a steady green LED that signals it’s ready to wear. If you get an orange light, it’s time to recharge. Because you can’t see the LEDs when wearing the vest, the best start-up method is to lay the vest flat on something like your bike’s seat, prod the power button three times, and after you get the green light–it will begin flashing intermittently–put the vest on. The three clips make it quick and easy to pull over your jacket, and the straps offer enough adjustment to fit both thin, hot-weather jackets and thicker, cool-day models. The E-Turtle is not meant to be worn under a jacket. Because it’s a vest, you’ll get some cooling airflow while in motion. At just a hair over 4 lbs. (1.85 kgs), the vest doesn’t weigh you down, and you soon forget you’re wearing it–I found it unobtrusive and comfortable. The one small, front zipper pocket can be used for credit cards, ID or keys, but I found it to be the perfect place for the Turtle’s charging cord, ensuring I’d never have to worry about being unable to recharge the vest. While it plugs into a standard 5V/2A USB charger, the “male” end of the charging cord is the less common barrel jack adapter you see with laptop power bricks. Everything is built into the E-Turtle:

charging unit and cable connection, the electronics package, battery and CO2 cartridge. The optional fork sensor units are not yet approved for USA use but will be arriving soon, and they fit BMW forks. The fork sensors add another three areas of monitoring, knocking another two milliseconds off the E-Turtle’s reaction time. When they become available later this year, they will be about a $100 option.


MARK THOMPSON #218859

One huge advantage compared to the tethered version of the Turtle is that you can get off the bike, walk around, make a run for the bathroom, without concerns or having to unbuckle the vest or to turn it off. You don’t have to remember to do anything except turn it On that first time. Normal activities will not lead to airbag inflation. At $799 for the neon hi-viz model ($769 for plain black), it’s certainly not inexpensive, but the price is in line with premium helmets, and it’s definitely cheaper than any injury. I chose the neon because it shouts a loud “Hey, pay attention!” to inattentive drivers. It’s good to be as visible as possible these days. The E-Turtle 2 is repackable and reusable if the airbag inflates, with instructions included on repacking. All you need is a replacement CO2 cartridge, sold by Helite for $85.The vest is made from 600D polyester ballistic textile that provides protection from road rash. A critical aspect of the E-Turtle 2 is that on inflation, your neck is protected, something that some of the other brands I considered buying didn’t have. I like having all of my back and neck protected. The E-Turtle 2 is not meant for any type of racing or off-road riding. There’s no subscription involved. The vest is adjustable to fit your riding gear and is waterproof. When the fork sensors are purchased, they do require a Bluetooth link to activate. Using the E-Turtle 2 could not be simpler. Start it up and put it on. Sizing can be hard to pinpoint. If you can try one on, do so–keeping in mind that the vest goes over your jacket(s) so have one on hand. The critical issue is starting out with the correct size. Helite and resellers off sizing guidelines, so take the required measurements and see where you fit. At 6-foot and 165 lbs., a size Large was my choice. You can also contact Helite directly for help in sizing selection at helitemoto.com (USA).

Upper images, The power button located on the front of the jacket. Red means startup is beginning; Green means ready to gol. Lower left, The front sippered pocked is small, the but perfect place for the charging cable. Lower right, CO2 cartridge, charging cable and vest electronics.

The E-Turtle 2 comes with an installed CO2 cartridge (the cartridges from the tethered versions of the Turtle will NOT work), a comprehensive owner’s manual, charging cord and the 5mm Allen wrench needed to change the cartridge. Airbags have proven their worth countless times and are required in some countries. Helite was one of the pioneers in individual protection systems, beginning in 2002. Gerard Thevenot, a French engineer who specialized in fluid mechanics, developed the first system for high-risk activities. Helite’s safety apparel is offered in multiple forms and for many sports other than motorcycling, such as horseback riding, cycling, aeronautics, and health and industrial work.

Riding and writing, that’s Mark. As a writer, his first published story was about a local Wisconsin motocross race while still a journalism student at the University of Wisconsin. Mark has been a contributor, editor and publisher for a wide variety of motorcycle magazines and online sites, in between 13 years at Readers Digest. There’s 40+ years of racing motocross, numerous transcontinental motorcycle trips on many different bikes, a deep involvement in the motorcycle industry and multiple books. He makes his home in the Cincinnati area these days and rides a ‘22 R 1250 GS A after stints on a K 1600 GTL and an F 850 GS won at the Great Falls National Rally in 2021!

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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GEAR

Sargent Heated Seat The above title should say, “Sargent World Sport Premium Plus Heated Seat with Matching Unheated Pillion,” but that’s a bit wordy. Sargent seats have been reviewed for MOA members before, but not the heated model, and not with its newly updated controller. You’ll probably recognize features common throughout the World Sport lineup, like the wider, flatter contours and obviously meticulous craftsmanship. Likewise, you’d expect to find the proprietary Super Cell Atomic Foam inside substantially firmer than OEM saddles, which can initially feel like a step in the wrong direction compared to a cushy stocker. Of course, that impression reverses quickly after experiencing the additional support on anything longer than the briefest of rides, with the Sargent pulling ever farther ahead as time and distance increase. At the end of a full day on the bike, there’s really no longer any comparison to be made; the Sargent seat is in an entirely different league and far superior. Something similar happens when assessing the seat’s broader, taller (upper) edges. These can feel a bit sharp and overly wide as they press against your inner thighs the first time you stand with both feet on the ground at a stop. They also don’t allow as easy a transition to hanging one cheek off during spirited cornering, compared to a more smoothly convex perch. Depending on your

30 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023

inseam, which may benefit from a narrower seat at stops, and how much body English you apply in the twisties, these could be minor counterpoints to the otherwise superlative benefits of having a) more lateral lift, b) a more neutral seating angle, and c) more room to shift position during the rest of your time in the saddle. It’s a tradeoff that seems well worthwhile for the vast majority of riders during the vast

majority of their riding. Also, the seat is reasonably narrow and much rounder at the front, so simply sliding forward an inch or two (which you may already do at stops and during aggressive cornering, anyway) eliminates most of the mild interference those edges might impose. One more detail to consider regarding the dimensions of a Sargent seat is its height. On my 2020 R 1250 RS, the OEM standard saddle has a seat height of 31.1 inches; the low version is 29.9 inches tall, and the high version is 32.3 inches off the

ground. Sargent’s standard seat is 30.8 inches high, slightly lower than the stocker, mainly because it’s dished instead of domed. The upper surface of Sargent’s tall version reaches an altitude of 32.4 inches. These measurements will differ from one motorcycle model to another, and Sargent offers a low version for some. Check their website to see the choices available for your specific bike. Some of Sargent’s heated seats feature plug-n-play wiring for motorcycles with an OEM heated seat option. Those familiar with Sargent’s popular World Sport seats should note the following upgrades characterizing the Performance Plus series (with or without heating). While UV-stabilized vinyl is still used, the top surface pattern differs, with the standard World Sport’s “CarbonFX” (slick carbon-fiber weave appearance) replaced by “DTX,” which has less sheen and supplies a bit more grip. Performance Plus seats also get “Grip Zones,” which are even grippier than the DTX panels, and are located strategically where your inner thighs contact the seat in the riding position. Whether you’re squeezing there during hard braking or bracing there with your outside leg while hanging off in a corner, the additional traction and tactile feel is a noticeable advantage. Finally, whereas contrasting welt colors cost a little more on the standard World Sports, seats of the


M A R K B A R N E S # 2 2 24 0 0

Performance Plus persuasion come with your choice of welt color (with accent stitching) at no extra charge. Sargent seals all seams for watertight construction on both product lines. All World Sport seats feature Sargent’s patented Zone Suspension Body Contour Technology, which includes the aforementioned Atomic Foam and two additional elements you can’t see and won’t immediately notice (they’re on both the rider’s seat and pillion). First, there’s a central longitudinal cutout like you find on technically advanced bicycle seats. This channel relieves pressure on the perineum, aiding comfort and avoiding potentially negative health impacts for male riders; you can reveal its presence by pressing along the middle of the seat with your fingertips, but otherwise it’s invisible. Second, a thin visco-layer of softer foam lies beneath the areas where pressure points are apt to develop under your sit bones, those relatively sharp protrusions of the pelvis that bear your weight in the seated position. This special layer helps distribute pressure more evenly during extended rides, reducing the likelihood of painful “hot spots,” and it’s integrated with the main foam element sans seams or glue joints. Sargent touts their all-foam design as superior to using gel inserts, which can add weight and retain unwanted heat. Sargent seats are built on PolyTec base pans that interface with your bike exactly like the OEM units. In the case of BMW replacements, storage for your owner’s manual and factory-supplied tools is preserved, and an added space holds a handy aluminum LED flashlight included as a bonus – nice! As with every other Sargent seat I’ve owned over the years, the rider and passenger portions fit perfectly on my bike. A generously portioned cable extends from the base of the rider’s seat for connecting the

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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heat-related wiring, which has an additional plug for warming the pillion if you opt to have heating elements installed there, too (such a setup would include a second controller, as well). It’s very easy to unplug and re-plug this connector when removing and replacing the rider’s seat. The wiring harness is standard fare for an ignition-switched accessory (you’ll want to protect your battery from drainage in case you forget to turn the seat heat all the way off at the controller). Power and ground ring terminals connect to your battery posts (or remote battery

Wiring for the Sargent heated seat.

32 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023

attachment point) and a relay’s trigger wire gets spliced into an ignitionswitched circuit, like the one for your brake light, using the included clip-on connector (no cutting, stripping, or soldering required). Then it’s just a matter of plugging in the seat and controller,

with the latter mounted wherever you like using an adhesive-backed Velcro pad (handlebar or mirror-mount brackets are available for $35). There’s very little real estate around the dash of the RS, but absolutely zero room on its cast handlebars, and its mirrors mount on the fairing, not the bars, so I couldn’t use the optional bracketry. I chose a flat mounting spot where I could easily reach the controller’s dial and check its LED with a tilt of my head, although it’s mostly hidden from my view while riding (no loss, as its blocky shape doesn’t exactly complement the bike’s swoopy aesthetics). This updated controller is “back to the future,” in that it’s externally similar to a design Sargent used in the past. That one was replaced with the most recent version, which was sleeker with buttons and bar-graph displays. I tested an early-release prototype of the new controller, which should be widely available around the start of 2023. The “Heat Boss” controller you see here promises simplified operation and bulletproof durability. Just rotate the knob clockwise for more heat and counter-clockwise for less – and ultimately to turn it off. Instead of the usual two- or three-step settings for on-board heating, Sargent’s Heat Boss offers a much more variable arrangement. Upon startup, the LED emits a double flash to indicate the system is in Boost Mode. This supplies the heating elements with maximum power to get warmth to your posterior ASAP regardless of dial setting and lasts 15 minutes unless you move the dial in either direction sooner. After Boost Mode ends, Standard Heat Mode provides modulated power to the heating elements according to the knob position and corresponding LED flash rate. The Heat Boss is waterproof with an IP67 rating, 20V tolerant, and protected against 24V transient current/voltage spikes and polarity reversal. At full power, the single rider’s seat draws 1.7A (or 23


Upper right, The HexCan after tidying up the wiring beneath the seat. Bottom right, The Heat Boss controller monted on my fairing.

watts @ 13.5V); dual seat installations will double those numbers. The wiring harness power lead includes a 7.5A inline blade-type fuse. Flexible thin-film heating elements are molded into the foam just below the surface and employ Fine Wire Spiral Wound Glass Core Technology; they cannot be detected by hunting for them with your fingertips. Experienced accessory installers will have noticed an omission above: I made no mention of the myriad hassles involved in threading wires through the densely packed labyrinth beneath the skin of a modern BMW. Since each model will present its own idiosyncratic frustrations, I’ll leave you to embark on that journey of discovery (and creativity!) for yourself. I will, however, let you in on something I learned. If you have a Hex ezCan II power distribution module (reviewed on the BMW Owners News website here: bmwownersnews. com/2022/07/hex-ezcan-ii/), you may find the seat works fine using that as its electron source; mine did. You’ll need to fabricate a connector using one of the Hex ezCan II blanks on one end and an SAE plug on the other (cut one off an extra Battery Tender cable you have lying around). This eliminates the need for most of the Sargent wiring harness and bulky relay, and it avoids adding to the collection of accessory leads already attached to your battery. You can simply use your fabricated connector to attach the Heat Boss cable’s SAE plug to your Hex ezCan II (probably right there under the seat already), and then attach the seat to that same cable using its other plug. You’ll still have to route the controller’s cable from its mounting location to the seat and Hex ezCan II, but that’s much easier than situating the rest of the

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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supplied wiring. Remember to use the Hex ezCan II’s software to set the electronic fuse for this connection at 7.5A, and make sure you’ve chosen a basic ignitionswitched power channel without additional modulation programming. WARNING: While I had no trouble whatsoever powering my seat with a Hex ezCan II as described, I cannot guarantee you’ll have the same good fortune, and neither I nor the MOA publication you’re reading will take any responsibility for problems you encounter trying to replicate my results. I installed my seat first using the full Sargent wiring to confirm its functionality, and it worked flawlessly. Sargent will stand behind their product with a 30-day money-back guarantee (on non-customized items), a two-year warranty on the vinyl cover, and five years on the foam and internal hardware – but only if you install it according to their instructions. They will not cover any consequences of incorporating a Hex ezCan II or any other power distribution accessory. The big question is, how well do all these electrics work? Quite well, although the system does take a little while to reach full effect, even with Boost Mode in play. For example, on a recent early outing in the mid-40s with the Heat Boss knob at its maximum, I found the warmth noticeable within the first five minutes, and gradually more so over the next 10-15. I enjoyed comfortably toasty heat for another hour before gradually dialing it down from full power as the mercury rose. With ambient temps eventually in the 60s, I left the seat on at about ¼ power. It wasn’t that I really needed warmth at that point, just like I don’t need my car’s seat heater in warm weather, but in both cases it just plain feels good, like a heating pad on sore muscles! After first appreciating heated seats in a car, I couldn’t go back to heater-less automotive seats without feeling deprived. Now I’m spoiled with the motorcycle equivalent, too. Sargent’s unheated seats are well worth the money, but the upgrade price for heat is truly a bargain, and it may extend your riding season considerably.

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34 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023

A premium seat like this is an investment, especially with the luxury of heating. Pricing varies by fitment, but the setup you see here retails for $999.95, including the heated rider seat, unheated pillion, and all electrics. Adding heat to the pillion would bump that price up to $1,129.95. On the RS, this would be a custom option, but owners of some other motorcycles have the choice of ordering heated passenger seats “off the rack.” I specified the BMW-tri-color-emblemadorned dark blue welt, thinking it would be similar to my bike’s “Imperial Blue Metallic” paint. The welt is actually quite a bit lighter, and I was somewhat disappointed when first looking at it in the garage. However, once I got everything out in the sun, I was very pleased to find the hue of the welt nicely matched the paint’s metalflake highlights; I think this might be even better than what I’d originally intended. Roam around on Sargent’s website to learn more about their range of accessory offerings and custom services, including installation of heating elements in seats you send them, and heating kits ($230) for DIY projects. For more information, visit sargentcycle.com

Mark Barnes is a clinical psychologist and motojournalist. To read more of his writings, check out his book Why We Ride: A Psychologist Explains the Motorcyclist’s Mind and the Love Affair Between Rider, Bike and Road, currently available in paperback through Amazon and other retailers. Also check out Mark’s podcast version of The Ride Inside, with essays and interviews, available through your favorite podcast app or online at BMWOwnersNews.com.


once on pavement, and another time on dirt. We rode to the top of Mount Evans on the highest paved road in North America. We saw all sorts of wildlife, and not that many people. We’d had a few spills along the way, and a few broken pieces of plastic on a couple of our bikes, but fortunately no broken bones. In short, we’d had a real adventure. The week ended with a wrap-up celebration BBQ on Friday night. Everyone was worn out but also energized and in great spirits. We’d made new friends, had blown off some steam, and seen some incredible scenery. Spouses were invited to come to the BBQ, and Marty introduced me to his wife, Michelle. Later that evening, Michelle pulled me aside. “Thank you for what you’re doing,” she told me, sounding a little serious. “Sure, it was great to have Marty along on the ride,” I said. “No, you don’t understand,” Michelle said. “The pictures that Marty posted on Facebook this week from the ride are the first pictures of him smiling I’ve seen in a really long time. I can’t believe how much a five-day www.alaskaleather.com motorcycle trip seems to have helped him. Thank you.” For once, I felt like I did understand. This time I was there.

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www.bmw2valve.com November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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K E E P ' E M F LY I N G

Back in the Saddle It has been a bit over three weeks since the past. Susanna rode down with me a my Slash Five, after the repair and the my cardiac ablation to hopefully get rid couple of times. My boarding school exercise of the wall repair, I took a ride of the atrial fibrillation that has been classmates are gathering again at Joshua and found the motorcycle much more knocking back my energy level for the Tree shortly before the Fiesta, and my pleasant. last year or so. After two unsuccessful intention is to combine the trips south. While out on the ride, I discovered I was cardioversion procedures, an ablation Now that the basement repair is done, dripping gas from what turned out to be was my next step. My problem is due to I’m riding my bicycle everywhere I can for porous fuel lines. They were quickly the A-fib symptoms of weakness and more exercise. I’m also looking at our replaced. The engine oil was clean but the shortness of breath. I had spent the local YMCA for a senior exercise group. gear oil in the driveline looked pretty previous six months or dirty. It was drained so lying around, while the bike was hot displaying the lifestyle after that first ride. The of a “slack beast,” as the front forks seemed a bit teachers at the school stiff, so I planned to I attended would have investigate them in a called me. Then, after a day or two. I hadn’t week of taking-it-easy, done anything with the my first bit of exercise forks after rebuilding was back-filling a new them after being blown wall built in my into that guardrail basement after the old about three-plus years wall, originally built in ago. A couple of days the early 1900s, caved later, I pulled down the in following a heavy forks and drained some rainstorm. rather dirty oil from I hired out the them and then took building for the wall, them apart for a good but it still required clean-up. Changing the back-filling between oil every year or so is the wall and the dirt good, but every so behind it. I had had often, one should take I was basically doing a major service, plus a few things, for this long idle R 100 RT. About three ablation on a Monday weeks before my cardio ablation, I was definitely feeling the effects of my atrial fibrillation. Got it them apart to check the and so, after a week of done and test ridden with no problems but it was an effort. rubber parts and clean rest was up, the out sludge that tends following Monday saw me hauling to collect in the bottom of the slider I am enjoying not being out of breath buckets of sand and gravel down the assembly. all the time. I also have one of those basement stairs and pouring them I wrote the above part of this article a KardiaMobile devices that turns a smart behind the new cement block wall. I got few days ago, during which time I looked phone or iPad into a basic EKG machine. much of the gravel by smashing up the at Susanna’s R 100/7. In her mid-70s, she With that, I’ve been checking my status old concrete blocks from the caved-in tells me her riding days are probably every couple of days and so far, am wall. Six days and more than 35 buckets done. No decision on what happens with experiencing normal sinus rhythm (a of gravel later, I topped off the gravel with the Airhead she has owned since before healthy heartbeat). a concrete covering and called it done. we met back in 1995. Anyway, I decided to A couple of days ago, I fired up my ’72 R My goal now is to get in shape by next look it over and gave it the same treat75/5 for the first time in about six months. February so that I can ride down to ment as Strider, my Slash Five. Engine oil I worked on a R 100 RT a few weeks before Tultepec, Mexico, to take part in the was clean but the rest of the fluids looked my cardiac repair and felt uneasy on the pyrotechnic madness of the Fiesta de San fairly dirty so I began by flushing out the three-mile test ride I took after completJuan de Dios. I have talked about this in front brake fluid. I then rode the bike on a ing the work. My weakness challenged earlier columns and have attended it in few errands to observe how it ran. It ran my ability to really keep my balance. With

36 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023


M AT T PA R K H O U S E # 1 3 2 7 2

just fine, thank you, so I changed the driveline gear oil and drained the forks. After this service, I took the bike for another short test run. About two miles from home, the engine just shut off. It was as if I had hit the kill switch or turned off the key. The bike had a minimal tool kit, so I pulled the tank since much of the ignition system resides underneath the seat and tank. No test lamp but there was a spare tail lamp bulb. By holding it “just so,” I could work it like a test lamp to test the various points to see if they had power. The coils were how I knew all was OK upstream from electrical connection. I had the right size Allen key, so the front cover came off and everything looked good there. I then moved the two wires to change the bike from its Dyna Booster system back to the original points and sure enough, I could see that the coiled spring that worked with the points looked like it was contacting the lower screw securing the points mounting plate to the front of the engine block. I pushed it away from that screw and the bike fired right up! The clearance between that spring is pretty close so once I was back home, I filed down the surface of the screw. Sometime in the past, someone (probably me) had tightened the screw with enough force to disrupt the metal around the slot for the screwdriver blade. A file took down any part of the screw that might have been raised during the tightening. I also took down the surface of the screw just a bit to increase the space between the screw head and the spring. This was the fourth or fifth time I’ve encountered this problem in my many years of working on these Airheads. After a hot summer, the cooler weather of fall is moving in and I’m looking forward to resuming my “Keep ‘em Flying” column again. If I don’t encounter any interesting bike repairs, I have 50 years of stories acquired in my close to a half-million miles of Airhead riding. I hope to share some of those stories with you.

I'm straightening up the front forks of my Slash Five. After three years of service, the oil was pretty dirty. I tore it down a bit beyond a fork oil change and cleaned out an accumulation of sludge in the lower fork area. The front end was noticeably smoother after this was done.

The lower points plate mounting screw and the points spring, as indicated by the arrow. The clearance between those two points is pretty minimal at best. If you're in a "no spark" situation with a 1970 to 1978 airhead, its a good place to take a quick look. I've encountered this show-stopper about five times over the years.

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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T O R Q U E O F T H E M AT T E R

Winterizing Your Bike In pretty much all of Canada and much of the northern United States, the onset of winter means the cessation of riding for most— if not all—of us. I have addressed long-term storage—aka winterizing—your motorcycle in this space previously, as well as on the MOA’s YouTube channel, but these things bear some repetition, as with time and new members, steps get forgotten or the information is simply welcomed by a new group of riders. What follows here are the steps I recommend—and go through myself—when it comes time to store a bike for fewer than six months. Longer than that, you really should undertake some heroic measures, like fully draining the fuel system and fogging the cylinders. For one season, though, what you see here is sufficient.

1. Take care of any open recalls and perform routine maintenance. If you got one of those letters letting you know the manufacturer discovered something needing addressed on your bike, get that done before winter storage. This might take some planning between you and your dealer, but it’s worth taking care of so you don’t forget during the off-season. If you’re close to or due for a routine maintenance cycle, get that done after your last big ride of the season. At the very least, change your engine oil and oil filter; you want to store your bike with the cleanest, freshest engine oil possible.

2. Clean and shine! Yes, even if you ride a GS, storage time is a great time to deep-clean your bike. Really get in there and clear out all the nooks and crannies. Giving everything a nice polish not only makes your bike look great, but it adds a little protection against time and gives you the opportunity to take care of any tarnish or corrosion before it sets in over the long winter. Don’t forget to unmount your panniers and clean them—and behind them—as well. Pay special attention to your drive chain if your bike is so equipped. I recommend S100’s Total Cycle Cleaner for regular cleaning practices. I use Muc-Off products for chain cleaning and maintenance, and don’t forget to finish off that chain with a fresh coat of lubricant; in this case, I like Muc-Off Dry Chain Lube. *TIP: If your wheels are particularly dirty with caked-on mud, brake dust, grease and other crud, consider taking them off the bike and cleaning them

38 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023

separately. I like to use the Scrubbing Bubbles product. Yeah, the toilet cleaner! It works great on this kind of gunk, as it contains degreasers and other cleansers. Get your wheel wet, spray on a nice coat of Scrubbing Bubbles, give them a minute or two to do their thing, then rub vigorously with a rag—don’t use a stiff brush, that might damage the finish on your wheel. Then rinse with lots of fresh water (a hose is handy for this) and spot-clean any stubborn spots. Not only will your wheels be shiny clean, but they’ll smell great, too.

3. Stabilize the fuel. Even if you have access to non-ethanol gasoline, your fuel system will thank you for adding a few ounces of these wonder products to the tank. Don’t forget to run the bike for a few minutes to circulate the chemicals through the entire system. What I like to do is add the stabilizer at home, then ride to the nearest gas station and fill the tank up all the way. You have a lot of choices here, including Sta-Bil, Sea Foam and Star-Tron. They all make similar claims, including the ability to stabilize fuel (i.e., keep the ethanol in solution), clean goo and varnish from the fuel system and even improve fuel efficiency. In my experience, they all do all of these things about equally, so the determining factor is your access to them. I use a 1:1 mixture of Sta-Bil 360 Marine and Yamalube Ring Free in all of my bikes, year-round, as a routine practice, adding a couple extra ounces of Sta-Bil if I know the bike is going to sit for more than a month. *Note: If your bike has carburetors and

a steel fuel tank, you can also drain the tank completely, coat the inside lightly with a little oil, and run the engine until the carbs are empty. The important thing is to get out ALL of the fuel from the entire system. If you’re not going to run the system completely dry, at least drain your float bowls.

4. Tend to your battery. Making sure your battery lasts the longest possible of its typical three to five-year lifespan requires one of two things: Regular riding or a battery tender. If you have more than one bike, you should have a battery tender, because we both know you’re not riding those bikes equally. I recommend one tender for every two bikes, and my favorite among those on the market is the Optimate brand of tenders. I use the Optimate 2 for my bikes with AGM (lead-acid) batteries, which right now is all of them. Optimate’s DUO products can charge both lead-acid and lithium-iron (LiFePO4) batteries, but be sure to read the instructions on how to switch the programs. 5. Cover your bike. If you’re forced to store your bike outdoors, a cover is mandatory as far as I’m concerned. A cover for outdoor storage should be full coverage and waterproof, yet breathable. My money in this regard goes to NelsonRigg and their Defender Extreme covers. They have covers in a variety of sizes from smaller sport bikes to massive trikes, and each Defender Extreme cover comes with a lifetime warranty. For what it’s worth, I also use a Defender Extreme “Route 1”


WES FLEMING #87301

half-cover when I travel, so it’s not hard to tell I really like their products. If you’re able to store your bike indoors, you don’t need to keep it protected from weather, but it never hurts to protect it from dust, pets or random things that could fall or get knocked around. Something as simple as an old fitted sheet will do the trick for most bikes, but you can also get a specialty indoor cover. Nelson-Rigg makes these too, as you might imagine.

6. Rodent-proof the area. It might be tough to actually rodent-proof the area where you store your bike, but you at least want to make your bike as unattractive to mice, squirrels and other rodents as possible. When left to their own devices, these furry creatures can (and will!) make a nest in your bike, often damaging wiring, air filters and even exhaust baffles as they try to survive the cold months. I keep my bikes in a free-standing shed, which can be tough to rodent-proof, but I try anyway and use a product called Mighty Mint. It’s a peppermint oil product, and I spray it around the perimeter inside my shed. It overpowers the sensitive noses of mice and rats, encouraging them to go elsewhere. I also use similar product called Mice Eliminator Pouches; it’s easy to pack a couple of these pouches inside the bike, under the seat, zip-tied to the frame, or even in the airbox itself provided you trust yourself to remember it’s there in the spring. Neither of these products purports to work against squirrels, but ever since I’ve started using them, I notice the squirrels avoid my shed. Don’t forget to periodically refresh them, whether you use the spray or the pouches, as they have a limited period of effectiveness. As a final piece of advice, I have something that’s more of a don’t: DO NOT periodically start your bike and let it idle

for a few minutes to “circulate the fuel” or “charge the battery.” This practice does neither of these things effectively, and in fact, unless you plan to ride at a decent speed for at least 30 minutes and get the bike up to its full operating temperature, you’re likely doing more harm than good to your winterized bike. Just let it sit! You

can also forget about that old myth of your tires getting “flat spots” during storage; unless your bike is sitting for longer than six months, just inflate them to the proper PSI and walk away. If it will make you feel better, you can roll the bike slightly every few weeks.

Wes Fleming tried being a rock star for 25 years, but gave all that up to focus on motorcycles. His mother still hasn’t forgiven him. The first new motorcycle he ever bought got run over by a car – with him still in the saddle. He discovered BMWs thanks to a friend in 2001 and has been riding trendy, not-so-trendy and sidecar-equipped BMWs ever since. Wes currently holds down multiple jobs, including freelance guitar consultant and history professor; when he's not pacing around his empty nest, he's out looking for a great deal on a used motorcycle.

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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BY ALAN TONEY #124362 PHOTOS BY IAN MARTIN


The road into the Spiti valley closed by avalanches.

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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“Hi, my name is Dawn, and who are all you lovely people? There are so many of you!” She stood at the entrance of the yurt, a shy young man by her side. “I know I look Chinese, but I’m actually Canadian, from Montreal, and this is my boyfriend, Jean-Paul. We’re going trekking in Ladakh.” Dawn’s smile lit up the room. We were eight days into our ride: a smelly bunch, muddy from the waist down and dusty to the tops of our helmets. We were definitely not lovely, just 34 grubby motorbike riders. In total, we numbered 50 or so with our Indian “minders,” a ride leader and a sweep driver, two medics, a small band of mechanics, and a “fixer” to grease palms at the military checkpoints along the way. We had flown overnight to New Delhi, then taken a local flight to Chandigarh, followed by a 6,000-foot climb in battered taxis to Shimla. Once, the summertime administrative capital of the British Raj, it is today the capital of the northern Indian province of Himachal Pradesh. Bordering on Jammu Kashmir, Punjab and Tibet, it is a bleak, high altitude region, once forbidden to foreigners, in the rain shadow of the mighty Himalayas. Touted as an “Enduro Adventure in the Sky,” the rental bikes that were to carry us through the worst of roads were anything but Enduros, more like remnants of former street bikes, held together with miles of baling wire and lashings of duct tape. They were Indian-built circa 1960s Royal Enfield Bullets, 500 cc

The riders…definitely not a lovely bunch.

42 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023

single-cylinder thumpers with clapped-out gear boxes, brakes and electrics with the temperament of Maria Callas, wearing bald tires to boot. The bike’s only saving grace was lots of low-end torque (if you could find a gear that worked). Built prior to current international standards, they had opposed foot pedals, with gear shift on the right and rear brake on the left. The Bullet was also notorious for having a lively front end, that is, if the front brake was applied in a turn, then down you’d go, flipped on your side with the bike on top of you. Before I even turned the key and kick-started my pile of motley parts into a cloud of noisy blue smoke, I knew I would be riding way out of my comfort zone, regardless of what the road conditions might throw at me. There was further bad news. We were each given a copy of “The Indian Highway Code,” comprising of nine Articles of Faith, based loosely, I think, on ancient Sanskrit text. I pored over the document as a novice monk might study his prayer scroll, and discovered the following immutable truths: 1. The assumption of immortality is required of all road users. 2. The following right-of-way must be observed at all times. Firstly cows (they’re sacred), then in descending order of gross tonnage, elephants, heavy trucks, buses, buffalos, camels, official cars, light trucks, jeeps, oxcarts, private cars and taxis, motorcycles, scooters, Tuk-Tuks (auto rickshaws), pigs, pedal


rickshaws, goats, bicycles (goods-carrying), handcarts, bicycles (passenger-carrying), dogs and cats, chickens and finally pedestrians. If in doubt of precedence, just remember that size really matters. Nirvana awaits. 3. If you run over and kill a pig, goat, chicken, dog or cat, just keep going. The “fixer” will pay off the owners. There will be hundreds of distraught claimants. If you run into a cow, elephant, camel or buffalo, you’re going no further in the mortal world. 4. The horn is to be blown at ALL TIMES for no reason whatsoever, especially when you’re bored or haven’t used it for at least ten seconds. 5. In the absence of seat belts, car occupants and motorcycle riders must wear garlands of marigolds fastened firmly around their necks. The importance of this law cannot be overemphasized. 6. Traffic entering a road from the left has priority, along with traffic entering from the right and also traffic in the middle of the road, going in either direction. 7. Passing at any time is mandatory, even if your vehicle is slower than the one in front, and always when approaching a blind curve. 8. To slow down is to falter, to brake is to admit defeat, to stop is to surrender, and to reverse, unthinkable.

9. Nirvana is achieved through a head-on crash with something bigger than yourself (see #2, above). Traveling in India was cheerfully summarized as a hallucinatory potion of sound, spectacle and karma; frequently heart-pounding, always unforgettable and extremely dangerous. The predictable never happened, the unbelievable often, the impossible always. “Sounds easy enough,” I muttered to myself reassuringly. “A bit like Christmas Eve shopping in AnyTown, USA.” But it got worse. Next came the carefully planned itinerary, presented in excruciating detail, along with a potted history of plate tectonics, which explained clearly why the itinerary wasn’t worth the paper it was written on. Think Triassic Era, some 200 million years ago. After the super-continent, Gondwana, separated from Laurasia, it broke into pieces that today we recognize as the continents of the Southern Hemisphere, plus the Indian sub-continent. Free to roam, it drifted northwards at a rate of 9 cm per century, about the speed that your fingernails grow, crossed the Equator and eventually, 45 million years ago, collided with what we know today as Asia. The progress of the Indian sub-plate was then slowed by half, to about 5 cm per century, but it continued northward by sub

A Kodak moment, above the tree line. Heading for Baralacha La pass. November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

43


At Kalpa, we were queuing to get our inner line permits to ducting under the Eurasian plate. The leading edge of the latter enter the Spiti Valley for our visit to Tabo Gompa monastery, plate was folded upwards, forming the Himalayas, and the when we learned that a landslide had taken out eight sections of Tibetan plateau was raised behind them. The Himalayas are still the same switchback and that the access road would take at least growing at a rate of 1 centimeter per year. In a nutshell, the a week to re-open. region of Himachal Pradesh is chronically, geologically unstable. Tectonic Plate Theory 1 vs, Enduro Itinerary 0. Earthquakes, like the proverbial, happen. Ever congenial, co-operative and flexible, we let out a collecOur route took us through a succession of deep-cut valleys, tive “Sod it!” and backtracked for three days into the Kullu Valley, linked by high mountain passes, closed by snow for eight over the Rohtang La (Rohtang Pass) with Keylong, Jispa and the months of the year and then continually at risk from landslides Baralacha La (Baralacha Pass) our new destination. caused by tremors and washouts, ice falls and snow melt (lots of Baralacha La will always remain a special place in my memory. it, enough water to supply 20% of the world’s population). At 16,050 feet elevation, it is a crossroads, being the southern Roads were continually under repair, closures were routine. portal into Ladakh and also the western access by “jeep road” Further, a goodly chunk of our itinerary took us on the old into the Lahaul and Spiti Valleys. It is a moonscape, a barren military supply road that linked Himachal Pradesh to the inhospitable place. No trees, shrubs or vegetation of any kind, no disputed territory of the Kashmir and the international border people nor animals, live there. The incessant wind is deafening as with Pakistan. These were nervous times. Travel permits were it reduces the many thousands of Buddhist prayer flags to tatters mandatory for each bike and rider, and random searches were and shreds. Colorful guaranteed. Every bridge rectangles of transparent was heavily guarded; cloth, in blue, white, green, military checkpoints red and yellow represent were more numerous the five elements of sky, than Buddhist monasterwind, water, fire and earth ies and Hindu temples respectively. Contrary to combined. Roads could popular belief, they offer be closed on a whim. The not prayers to the Gods, Indian Army ruled; logic but simply use the wind to did not. spread peace, compassion, We learned that, as we strength and wisdom, to passed from valley to pervade all spaces and valley, we’d ride through beings within. a patchwork quilt of My riding buddy, Ian, cultures, races and and I clambered a few religions, overlaid by the hundred feet off the road. caste system and On an exposed knoll, we threaded by numerous built a small cairn and sat nomadic tribes. Until for a while in quiet recently, most valleys State-of-the-art guardrails. Take a deep breath and ride. remembrance of his mom were feudal, closed Gladys, and of other dear societies. Today, the friends who had recently died. In such a place, surrounded and region is still predominantly agricultural with wheat, barley and dwarfed by the towering, snow-clad peaks of the Himalayas apples grown, and sheep and goats herded co-operatively by proper, regardless of your religion or otherwise, you can’t help peaceable folk living in poverty, in a land where crime is almost but feel closer to something. non-existent. It was a life of community, of simple faith and a Too soon, it was time to head down the mountain. After primitive belief that all actions, whether for good or bad, would noontime, the sun, no matter how weak at that elevation, be recorded in heaven and used to determine their next life on increases the snow melt and the degree of difficulty of the river earth. crossings. We were happy to see the twinkling lights of Keylong It was time to ride. in the feeble light. The deeper you drop into the valley, the earlier For the first three days, we rode through the spectacular the daylight fades. Baspa-Sangla Valley, following rushing torrents of glacial It was our eighth tough day in the saddle, but a respite was in run-off, on roads carved into the rock face, 500 vertical feet sight. From that overnight stop in Keylong we headed south above the valley floor. No room for mistakes here. At Chitkul, we again, climbing Rohtang La for the slip ‘n slide descent into were close enough to Tibet to wave and shout English pleasantManali and a day of rest and relaxation. At the top of the pass, ries to the Chinese border guards, with their "come any closer northbound traffic, up to its axles in mud, had the road gridand we shoot to kill” orders. Bikers’ herd mentality rarely hits locked. The mountain mist was cold, grey, wet and heavy. A yurt triple figures on the MENSA scale; usually, the greater the beckoned. It was time for a tea break to give the road and the number of bikers, the lower the collective IQ. The border guards weather a chance to clear. probably realized that and loaded real bullets accordingly. Opposite page, No room for error in the Baspa-Sangla valley.

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The roadside cafés in those parts are either open-fronted tin shacks or yurts, temporary affairs run mostly by Tibetan refugees. They offer mugs of steaming hot chai (tea) flavored with yak butter and salt, toasted bread slices slathered with yak butter, or chow mein (yak butter optional). At those elevations, you grab your calories any which way you can. The yurts offer shelter from the wind and rain, but no heat, except for that given off by the cook’s two-burner propane stove. Some of the more elaborate establishments also offer Thukpa, a local stew made from yak meat and vegetables as a parody of Thukpa Rohtang, a local mix of rain, fog and partially frozen mud. It is a favorite dish served to Indian honeymoon couples four-wheeling up from Manali to get a close-up view of the snow-clad Himalayas, a novelty for most lowlanders. Through a small hole in the wall behind the stove, the cook passed dirty mugs, plates and spoons to a young boy, squatting next to a tethered goat. The latter was enthusiastically licking everything sparklingly clean. Aprés goat, followed by a quick dip in a 40-gallon oil drum full of cold, grey, murky water, all items were passed back through the hole for the next eager customer to use. As I entered the yurt, long after the rest of the group, I asked the boy the obvious question “What are you doing?” With a grin, he replied “Recycling.” At those elevations, nothing is wasted. “And what about you, sir, where are you from?” Dawn finally asked me, as she completed the circle. As the slowest rider in the group, I was the last to arrive at the yurt, the last to be seated and furthest away from the propane stove. “Well, I may sound English but, like you, I once held Canadian citizenship,” I replied. “I lived and worked there for 24 years, in Ontario, but now I have American citizenship and live in the USA.” “Wow! My dad lives in Ontario. In fact, he went to college there, in a little town called Kirkland Lake on the Arctic Watershed. He studied Welding Engineering Technology.”

Roadside yurt, Rohtang La. Where Alan met Dawn.

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The penny dropped for me. The pieces suddenly all fitted together. My slam dunk followed. “No kidding! Hang on to your marigolds, Dawn, because I know your surname…it’s Cheung.” “How on earth do you know that?” she exclaimed. “Not only do I know you’re a Cheung, but I know your father’s given name. It’s Yiu Sun, but we all knew him simply as Joe.” “That’s unreal! It can’t be true!” “True enough.” I said. “I handed your father his diploma at Northern College in Kirkland Lake, in May 1979.” I could still see Joe in my mind’s eye, as plain as day. He was ever smiling, pleasant and hardworking, a model student and full of promise. I saw him as a 20-year-old, as if it were only yesterday. “Dad’s just not going to believe this…” Dawn was lost for words. “So, how is your father?” I asked. “Well, after he graduated, he didn’t stay long in the welding sector. He moved to Otis Elevators in Toronto and did really well there. He’s a regional manager now and doing great, just loving his job. “Oh, and he’ll be retiring next year.” It was my turn to be lost for words in the Land of Rohtang La.

When Alan Toney retired in 2003, he bought his first motorcycle and went for a ride. In his travels across six continents, through no fault of his own, he crossed paths with the ghosts of Butch and Sundance, Jimi Hendrix, Che Guevara, Muhammad Ali, Nelson Mandela, and Brigitte Bardot, to name but seven. Later, he was persuaded to write about his encounters and, to date, despite being an engineer, he has more than 40 short stories in his collection. At 80-something, Alan is still searching for the Meaning of Life, but most days he is happy enough just to find his car keys.


By Mark Thompson #218859

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More than 400 riders from 26 states and two Canadian provinces made the trek to eastern Ohio’s Hocking Hills area in early September to ride the trails and highways of the Wayne National Forest and enjoy some of the last sweet riding days of summer. The Wailin' Wayne Weekend has become a popular fixture on the MOA calendar, this year’s version marking a decade of growth in everything from attendance to things to do. Held on the grounds of Hocking College in Nelsonville, Ohio, there was plenty of space for tents, the preferred choice of most. For those preferring a bed, nearby college facilities offered showers and other luxuries, and Nelsonville itself was literally in walking distance. A large tent on the rally grounds held tables for the 2,100 meals that were served. One of the entry options included breakfast and dinner prepared by the college’s cuisine instruction staff, something which most attendees chose. The big tent also doubled as the morning’s coffee central and hosted local bands in the evening. Nearby, an MOA-sponsored “bier” garden offered good German Warsteiner beer at a can’t-beat-it price of free but with donations happily accepted for “Rally for Rangers,” raising several thousand dollars. MOA Executive Director Ted Moyer was often helping to man the beer taps. The Warsteiner Oktoberfest beer was excellent! Kudos to MOA for hosting this! This area of Ohio offers many riding choices, whether off-road, curvy asphalt or a mix. After a riders’ meeting at 9 a.m. each morning, helmets were buckled and groups met up behind guides for that day’s excursions. It was all very organized

in the way we’ve come to expect from MOA events. Riders were about equally divided between off-road and street. Nelsonville and nearby Athens being the centerpoint of Ohio’s Windy Nine, a selection of nine routes that include the “Triple Nickel” (also known as state highway 555). Go to windy9.com for maps and details. The off-road trails of the Wayne National Forest are well marked and offer either gravel or nothing but good, clean dirt. You could literally ride all day or until you ran out of fuel. In addition to the great riding, on Thursday evening 130 of us piled into the rail cars of the Hocking Valley Scenic Railway for a two-hour train ride as part of “Brews and BBQ.” Another event highlight was the talk on Friday evening by Stu and Janell Clarke, an Australian couple who have been traveling the world on BMW motorcycles accompanied by two small dogs. Over the past ten years they’ve been on six continents, traveled in 108 countries and racked up over 140,00 miles doing something many of us have dreamed of doing. Their presentation was very well-attended, although the band playing nearby in the main tent muffled much of what was said. Realizing this, on Saturday, during the rider’s meeting, Chad Warner, Wailin’ founder and organizer, presented the couple with $250 as a “sorry about the too-loud band” gift towards their further travels. You can learn more about their travels, past and present, at TheTrackPack.com. Event sponsors deserving of a shout-out include MotoZ tires which came from California, sponsoring the gift bags and giving away $500 worth of tires. Mosko Moto also gave away a $500 gift certificate, while EpiCO Moto Tours gave away a seven-day

Testing Harley's Pan-America in the obstacle course. Photograph courtesy of Ohio's Windy 9.

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Columbia tour worth $4,400; and Moto Camp Nerds provided $500 worth of door prizes. Both Yamaha and Harley-Davidson had their semis stuffed with bikes available for test rides (700 Tenere and Pan-America, respectively), and both manufacturers were kept busy. All told, 40% of attendees were first timers. Registration for the 2024 Wailin' Wayne will open on January 1, 2024 with registration capped at 500 entrants to keep it a fun and manageable size. The weekend will be September 4-8th, 2024. More details can be found at wailinwayneweekend.com

Below Left, MOA Executive Director Ted Moyer and Robb Wing lend a hand in the Bier Garden. Below Right, Austrailian couple Stu and Janell Clarke presented a seminar about their travels Bottom, Lined up and ready to ride.

Photograph courtesy of Ohio's Windy 9. November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

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BMW OWNERS NEWS

Holiday GIFT GUIDE

What does the motorcyclist who has everything want? MORE EVERYTHING, of course! What follows is your annual guide to a variety of cool, fun and even useful gifts for your favorite motorcyclist... even if it's for yourself!

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BMW MOA Lifestyle Collection Men's Transition Hoodie $149.99

Embroidered with the BMW MOA Logo - The Transition Hoodie is a stretchy, athletic, windproof soft shell that takes the edge off chilly weather. Fleece backing adds warmth while flexible, breathable fabrics keep you comfortable even during physical activity. Add the Transition to your arsenal to fend off any cold breeze. Visit moalifestyle.org to order today!

Machineart Moto

ADVanceGuard multi-functional hand guards are uniquely designed for Adventure Sport Touring BMWs with easily adjustable Sliding Shields and removable front Inserts to increase air flow and adapt to multiple temperatures and riding conditions. ADVanceGuards fit BMW R1250/1200 GS/A, F800-700-850750 GS/A, F900XR, R nineT, and select ADV brands. $229.00~$239.00. Visit machineartmoto.com or call 908.652.6779 for more information.

NEW! BMW MOA Lifestyle Collection Halo Hoodie $159.99

The Halo Hoodie is a midweight stretch women’s fleece with moisture-wicking performance and a full-coverage three-panel hood for heat-trapping comfort. The full-zip fleece hoodie includes a stand-up collar and roll-over chin guard for added protection from wind and wet weather conditions. The regular-fit hoodie includes finished thumbholes for warmth and protection. Visit moalifestyle.org to order today!


NEW! BMW MOA Lifestyle Collection Teton Merino Wool 1/4 Zip $129.99

It sounds bold, but this might be the most comfortable shirt you’ll ever wear. The redesigned Teton Merino Wool ¼ Zip retains the same incredible benefits of merino wool while dramatically improving comfort with softer, loftier fabric. Wear it as a mid layer for cooler days, around the campfire or on the town – subdued features and refined finish puts the Teton Merino ¼ Zip at home in any environment. It’s the ultimate everyday multi-tool layer. Visit moalifestyle.org to order today!

AdMore Lighting

The AdMore Light Bar Pro is a great gift for the BMW motorcycle rider! The Light Bar Pro is a multi-function auxiliary safety light bar that is easy to install and is Can Bus compatible. The onboard Bosch accelerometer sensor will let drivers behind know that you are slowing down. Bluetooth-enabled so you can customize the light bar functions using your phone. Visit admorelighting.com

Suburban Machinery

Available for select models of BMW motorcycles, footpeg lowering kits from Suburban Machinery provide a more relaxed riding position, reducing stress on knees and hips and improving weight distribution on the saddle. See all of our products at www.suburban-machinery.com. Order online or call 440-951-6555.

Redverz Gear

The happiest guy at the the Rally definitely slept in an Atacama Expedition Tent from Redverz Gear. Make this the year you enjoy a lounge, a changing room and space to stand up inside. It’s the original motorcycle tent, available in Ivory and Green, $599. Visit redverz.com or call 720-213-8287 for more.

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BestRest Products

The CyclePump Expedition tire inflator fills your tire in 2-3 minutes. A rugged aluminum case and rubber armor protect against all hazards and keeps it running on your world travels. Paired with a CyclePump EZAir tire gauge, your tires will always be properly inflated for longer tread life and maximum rider safety. Made in the USA, it has a lifetime warranty. $150-$165 depending on air chuck. Proudly crafted by the staff at BestRest Products, who are BMW riders themselves. Visit CyclePump.com or call 425.673.1023

MOA Lifestyle Collection Women's Whistler Jacket $179.99

Embroidered with the BMW MOA Logo - The Whistler Jacket is a stretchy, windproof, water-resistant soft shell that takes the edge off chilly weather. Fleece backing adds warmth while flexible, breathable fabrics keep you comfortable even during physical activity. Add the women’s Whistler to your wardrobe to fend off any cold breeze. Visit moalifestyle.org to order today!

Morton's BMW

Featuring carbon fiber construction, built-in video capability, navigation and device management via its dedicated mobile app, the premium Forcite MK1S is everything you could ask for in a helmet. All you need add is an SD card to record your journey! Now available at Morton’s BMW Motorcycles, 540-8919844 / mortonsbmw.com.

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Bing Carburetor

Rebuild those carbs and get the gift of 50 mpg, snappy throttle response and shiny carbs this holiday season. 10% off Carb Balancer with code #BMW20X. Visit bingcarburetor.com or call 800-309-2464 for more information.

NEW! BMW MOA Lifestyle Collection Boulder Stretch Down Jacket $279.99

The Boulder Stretch Down Jacket is a highly-compressible full-zip men’s jacket with responsiblysourced down and stretch fabric purposely-designed for daily adventure. With durable construction, a water-repellent finish and windproof fabrics, this jacket includes a cinch-cord hem and stand-up collar for maximum warmth and custom fit. Front chest and zipper pockets add secure storage. Visit moalifestyle.org to order today!

REBUILD THOSE CARBS A GIFT OF 50MPG SNAPPY RE SHINY CARBS THIS HOLID

10% off CARB BALAN

Beemer Shop

Convert any ratchet or breaker bar into a digital torque wrench! The SBVTools digital torque wrench gives you torque readings from 4Nm to 203Nm / 3.68 to 150 ft-lbs with a guaranteed accuracy of CW±1% (Clock Wise) and CCW± 2% (Counter Clock Wise). $99.00 at BeemerShop.com.

With code # BMW National Cycle

800-309-246 Upgrade your R1200/1250GS with ZTechnik’s acclaimed VStream Windscreens and Headlight Guards. Both are Quantum hardcoated polycarbonate and are virtually indestructible. Complete your setup with our Windscreen Stabilizer Kit to strengthen and stiffen your OEM mounting brackets. See all the products for your bike at www.nationalcycle.com or call 866-ZTECHNK.

http://bingcarburet bing@bingcarbure 54 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023


Alaska Leather

Keep Your Buttbones from Burnin'! Our Sheepskin Buttpads will keep you cool in the summer and warm in the winter! Family owned and operated since 1979. Visit our website at www. alaskaleather.com!

NEW! BMW MOA Lifestyle Collection Bighorn Canyon Wool Fleece 1/4 Zip $129.99

AND GET THE ESPONSEAND DAY SEASON.

The Bighorn Canyon Wool Fleece ¼ Zip is a heavyweight performance sweater fleece with moisture-wicking performance and the unique benefits of wool, including natural odor resistance and temperature regulation. The centerfront zip helps to vent body heat while the stand-up collar provides heat-trapping comfort in cold conditions, making this ¼ zip ideal for a range of winter activities. Visit moalifestyle.org to order today!

NCER

W20X

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tor.com etor.com

Touratech Adjustable Folding Mirror

With 180 degrees of adjustability, Touratech’s Adjustable Folding Mirror moves with a positive click at each setting and will never shake loose while riding. This large mirror gives excellent clarity and rear-view visibility, is easy to install on your BMW and folds away in a snap for off-road use or transport. Makes a great stocking stuffer! Visit touratech-usa. com for more information.

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BMW MOA Lifestyle Collection Inferno Jacket $99.99

Embroidered with the BMW MOA Logo - We built the Inferno to be one of our most versatile and comfortable pieces that excels at mid-layer performance as well as being the perfect every-day chill-killer. The perfect balance of warmth and light-weight, it is the mid-layer jacket that you can trust before and after the ride. Visit moalifestyle.org to order today!

BMW MOA Lifestyle Collection Basecamp Shirt $79.99

Embroidered with the BMW MOA Logo - Born from a constant desire to explore the outdoors, the Basecamp Long Sleeve Shirt is equally at home on and off the bike – whether as a layer under your riding gear or relaxing around the campfire. Moisture-wicking fabrics and practical features make the redesigned Basecamp comfortable and functional for almost any situation. Visit moalifestyle.org to order today!

Shiny Side Up

Popular columns, features, profiles and memoirs from BMW Owners News, plus previously unpublished stories, fill Ron Davis’ two books, Shiny Side Up and Rubber Side Down. Praised by moto writers like Peter Egan, Jack Riepe and Mark Barnes, both collections are available wherever books are sold and from the publisher, Road Dog Publications (roaddogpub.com) for about $20 each.

Rocky Creek Designs

Introducing the new Moto Pressor Pocket Pump V2 from Rocky Creek Designs. The Pocket Pump pumps over 130 psi and will inflate a 150/70 R18 tyre from 0 to 31psi in 3 minutes. There is a built-in “checking valve” on the pump for attaching a pressure gauge to check tire pressure at any time. Use discount code MOA2023 to receive a 15% discount. Visit www.rockycreekdesigns.com for more information.

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BMW MOA Lifestyle Collection Women's Waverly Jacket $199.99

Embroidered with the BMW MOA Logo - The redesigned Waverly Jacket is an insulated women’s mid layer with exceptional breathability for casual or athletic conditions. Great breathability avoids the stuffy, sweaty feeling without introducing so much airflow that body heat escapes. The result is a very comfortable mid layer suited for any physical activity, adding warmth to any outer shell. This will easily become your favorite mid layer, both for a night in town and on a ride. Visit moalifestyle.org to order today!

S100 Cycle Care

Give that special person the gift of a well-cared for bike with the S100® Cycle Care Gift Set! Five top sellers to make a valuable bike last longer and look better. Find this terrific set at your local dealer. Learn more at s100.com.

BMW MOA Lifestyle Collection Men's Maverick Down Jacket $249.99

Embroidered with the BMW MOA Logo - The Maverick Down Jacket is lightweight and highly wind resistant, adding essential warmth to any situation. It’s packable for travel, versatile for use as a stand-alone jacket or under an outer shell, and features subdued sensibilities that make it perfectly suited as a motorcycle layer. Visit moalifestyle.org to order today!

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The Beginning of the End of the Beginning: Parlez Vous Francais? By Dustin Silvey #224778

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“How can anyone govern a nation that has 240 different kinds of cheese?” ~ Charles de Gaulle former President of France When planning our trip across Canada, Janel and I wanted to ensure we visited places off the beaten path. So far on this journey, we have been to northern Saskatchewan, northern Manitoba, over Quebec’s Route 389 and into Labrador. Ten years ago, I would have said Newfoundland as an island was off the beaten path; however, in the last several years Newfoundland Tourism has really pushed advertisements of the area, making it a main tourist destination for many Canadians and international travellers alike. “Main Tourist Destination” and “Off the Beaten Path” don’t really go together; so how could we get away from the crowds and see something different? Well, by visiting France of course. With COVID-19 having run its gamut though my immune system and now working on Janel’s, we had to delay our trip south into Newfoundland by two days. We stayed in the remote fishing village of Englee until Janel was feeling up to the 300 km (186 mile) ride to Rocky Harbour. The morning we planned to leave, I was loading the bikes, and when I went to turn Janel’s bike around, I almost dropped it. I had lost 10 lbs. during my time with COVID-19, and I felt the lack of strength in my upper body. Janel overall was doing well, she was a bit slow and still had a cough, but overall, she seemed to be up for the ride. With a sunny day welcoming us back on Cave waterfall. the road after four days in bed, we set out on some of the worst roads Canada has to offer. Newfoundland is rather famous for having some bad roads, but the road from the eastern side of the Northern Peninsula to the western side was some of the worst highway I have ever ridden or driven. Potholes larger than our motorcycles were regular, some more than a foot deep, and large chunks of pavement jutted up like a we were in a war zone. With each hole we had to slow down to ensure we didn’t destroy a front tire and, ourselves. This made the 60 odd kilometre journey (37 mile) take over an hour. With me frustrated with the roads, and Janel exhausted from the stop and go, we finally turned south towards Rocky Harbour. These roads were smooth as silk when compared to that previous garbage, and we followed the coastal road along windswept beaches. The trees along the road were short and bent at odd angles from the wind battering them. Little other vegetation grew along the road and the beaches were loaded with driftwood. It didn’t take long before we had a taste of that

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wind, as a westerly picked up and began blowing the bikes around. “Ugh…” I heard Janel groan when the wind tossed her across the lane. I knew she was tired and doing her best to stay positive about how beautiful the endless blue ocean was, but she was struggling. Realizing Janel needed a break, when we were about three quarters of the way I saw Arches Provincial Park and told Janel we should take a break and let her get some rest. We sat at a picnic table, and I ate a granola bar while Janel rested her head on her arms. I thought it best to let her rest, so I wandered the stone arches that had been carved by the ocean tide and gave this park its name. The massive arches, about 100 yards across and 50 yards deep, were the only rock surfaces coming out of the water for miles in each direction. I always find landscapes like this interesting: “How long did it take to carve out this place? What will it look like in 1,000 years?” “This looks like Greece; maybe we should go to Greece next…” Questions, I will likely never know the answer to, but always worth thinking about and keeping my childlike wonder alive. With my mind lost in a science fiction fantasy of future stone arches and thoughts of riding in Greece, I headed back to Janel; at which point she quickly informed me she just wanted to get this over with. Forty-five minutes later we were at the Sugar Hill Inn. The owners were kind enough to give us our own cottage where we wouldn’t risk getting anyone else sick, and Janel could rest and recover. There are so many beautiful hikes in the area in and around Gros Mrone National Park, but unfortunately, we weren’t able to take advantage of any of them. The next two days in Rocky Harbour, consisted of me just going for rides to check out some of the views while Janel rested in bed. Once Janel was up to moving on, we started to prepare for our trip across Newfoundland; but first, Janel needed a real meal. On our last night in Rocky Harbour, the operators of Go Western Newfoundland offered to take us out to their favorite restaurant in town: Chanterelles Restaurant, which happened to be at the Sugar Hill Inn and is very highly rated and well recommended. Janel and I each ordered the halibut which came out beautifully plated; however, while I was eating, I thought: “hmm, this doesn’t have much taste.” We of course ordered desert, and although it had a tart flavour, again, it just wasn’t that tasty (and I love dessert,


so this was a bit disappointing). With the meal done, we said our goodbyes and as we walked back to our cottage Janel said: “I don’t know what all the hype about that restaurant is, the food was TASTELESS!” I responded: “I know! It was so bland… wait…you couldn’t taste much either?” This was the moment it dawned on me: “Janel, it wasn’t the food, its US! We can’t taste anything because we had COVID-19!” We both started to crack up. Since we hadn’t really been eating much the last few days, we hadn’t noticed that our taste buds just weren’t up to the task since being ill. Even though we were much healthier and testing negative at this point, our sense of taste had not returned. The next morning, with the bikes fueled up and ready to go, we decided it was time to head to Europe. No, I am not having a brain aneurysm; let me explain. Off the south coast of Newfoundland there are two small islands called St. Pierre and Miquelon that are French Territories. They use the Euro, they have European candies and chocolate, and very few on Miquelon speak English. We wanted that off the beaten path experience, and we were going to get it! First though, we had to get across the island of Newfoundland. The ride across central Newfoundland consisted of rain. So, much, rain. Riding through the rest of Gros Morne National

Park is usually a beautiful ride full of moose, foxes and crazy views. Our journey, however, was rain, fog, and us being soaked from head to toe. I don’t remember being that wet the whole trip other than our first day when we set out from Vancouver. Normally, the route across central Newfoundland is devoid of traffic, but on this day, it was nuts! There were cars zooming by everywhere; gas stations were packed; and when we stopped for breaks at rest stops, cars tore by making it difficult to hear each other speak at a normal level. “What is going on!?” Janel shouted. “You told me this road would be empty!” These were the same thoughts I had on my mind. I asked a gas station attendant why the roads were so full of traffic. She went on to explain that it was “Come Home Year” on the east coast. A more thorough explanation followed: a lot of east coasters move to Alberta to work and once every few years the east coast provinces host a bunch of events related to bringing everyone home that summer. This explained why hotels were so booked up and why the traffic was just insane! The attendant then told me, once we headed off the Trans-Canada Highway the traffic would thin. The friendly gas station attendant was correct; the moment we turned onto route 201 towards Fortune where we would catch our ferry to France, we noticed a drastic decline in the number of

A setting sun.

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vehicles on the road. With a lack of traffic, we enjoyed the twists and turns of the narrow highway, getting some good leans in on the bikes, while also keeping a stern eye out for moose. Our mood was quickly soured however, as dense fog began to settle in around us. Our visibility dropped to a few yards, and we had to slow right down. Newfoundland is well known for moose accidents, and hitting a moose on our motorcycles was not on our list of experiences we were hoping to have this trip. We took the road with ease and after about an hour we came over a bluff that left the fog behind us and welcomed us to the small community of Fortune. This would once again be where we said goodbye to the bikes. Everything we found online told us that we couldn’t take a vehicle to the French islands. Once we arrived however, we were informed that the government had made changes to this regulation recently, and now people can take vehicles across to the islands with a little paperwork. We already had a car rental booked on the other side, so we just went with it and said goodbye to the bikes for a couple of days leaving them in the garage of our BnB. Going through customs at the terminal was casual and only took a few minutes. We and the only other two passengers, then boarded the large and very comfortable and high end ferry off to the large and less inhabited island of Miquelon. After a short 1.5 hours, we arrived in a thick haze of fog to France. Coming off the ferry we noticed a woman standing by a car who asked us in very broken English: “You stay my inn?”

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Boarding our ferry.

I responded with: “Maybe, we are booked at the Island Inn.” “Oui, Oui. Come;” she said as she opened her car door for us. We had no idea she was coming to pick us up as her emails in English were a bit difficult to decipher. The short ride took us through the small community where we noticed most of the houses were two story, yet rather small (by North American standards), and almost all the cars were from Europe: Peugeot, old Minis and Citroëns. Although there were a lot of cars in driveways, there was almost no one about the town. The streets were empty; we saw one person wandering around, and otherwise, it was just a bit of fog and quiet.


I picked up our car rental and over the next two days we toured the island. A lot of Quebec tourists come to the islands, but otherwise, they don’t get a lot of Englishspeaking tourists, thus, almost no one speaks English. I found this mind-boggling: the islands are about an hour (on a clear day) ferry ride from Newfoundland, but residents seldom visit. They often fly to France instead! When I asked about this, they mentioned buying clothes or shoes in Newfoundland, but otherwise, most travelled to France for holidays. How did they end up here, you might ask? Well, during the colonisation of Canada, French fisherman came here to establish a community to catch cod. The British had control of Newfoundland and control of the French islands traded hands during wars between the two powers. In the end, France kept control of the islands. Unlike Newfoundland and Labrador, who left the United Kingdom to become part of Canada in 1949, St. Pierre and Miquelon have remained a part of France with a very French culture embedded in their everyday life. It was easy to forget we were still in North America. An interesting and kind of fun note During prohibition, the islands were a major stop for alcohol being smuggled into the United States. While visiting, we enjoyed some hikes along the empty coastline, we ate in two of the few restaurants scattered across the island, we met the odd local that could speak English, and found wild horses running in the sand dunes of the island. This last point was a fascination to Janel, who loves horses. She did some investigating and found that in the summer months, residents of St. Pierre bring their horses over to Miquelon to run free and graze on the vegetation. Each time we pulled over so Janel could enjoy the horses, locals would drive by us looking at us like we were idiots and these horses were just no big deal. Well, they were to Janel!

Left, The island in fog. Right, A lone horse runs the beach.

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With our time wrapping up on the rather empty island, we hopped aboard the ferry and headed to St. Pierre. The much more populated island had an even more European feel, but to us lost the charm and mystique of Miquelon. We did enjoy wandering the city with many more English speakers, and we went on a boat ride to a smaller island, once again enjoying some meals, but it just wasn’t the same as the foggy island that had horses darting out at us as we wandered aimlessly in the sand beaches. I think we both enjoy cities, but real adventure is found in the hills, fog and hidden worlds that few get to see. Tourist attractions got us interested to visit a lot of locations so far on this trip, but it’s the off-the-beaten-path adventures that really are making this adventure memorable. Get off Instagram and get out there. Find the places people are still dreaming about and complaining don’t exist anymore, because they do, they really do. If you want to see some more images from France you can on Instagram @ lostingear, or follow along on our YouTube channel; @lostingear Next stop: Our final destination out east, St. John’s, Newfoundland.

Things to do and places to stay on the west coast of Newfoundland and on the french islands: Gros Morne National Park Rugged landscapes mixed with humpback and fin whales make for a pretty memorable experience (so I have been told). There is one section of the park called the Tablelands where the Earth’s mantle has flipped upside down, making the area look like Mars. Well worth the visit! When you go, the Sugar Hill Inn is for sure one of the best places to stay in town. With plenty of quiet rooms and even the side cottage if you prefer. Rates are CA $10.50 (US $7.75) for the day in Gros Morne, and rooms at the Sugar Hill Inn start at CA $225/night $(US 166.50). For more information check out https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/nl/grosmorne and https://sugarhillinn.ca/.

St. Pierre and Miquelon Visiting the islands is rather simple. Be sure to book a ferry in advance at https://www. spm-ferries.fr/en/home/ for the dates you are hoping to go. If you take your motorcycles, no stress of getting around; however on Miquelon, if you do not take your motorcycles, book a car rental. It is very difficult to get around the island without transport. We met one couple who were on foot, so we offered for them to tag along with us on our adventures. Two rental companies’ numbers are below; remember, you are calling France, so international charges will apply. For places to stay, we really enjoyed our time at the Island Inn on Miquelon. The owner was kind, the price was reasonable, and the room was huge. It was inexpensive as well at 88 euros/night (US $94) (https://www.aubergemiquelon.com/). In St. Pierre we stayed at Auberge Saint-Pierre (https://www.aubergesaint-pierre.com/en/) which was lovely as well although the bed was a bit smaller. Rooms start at 136 euros/night (US $145). Make sure to book these far in advance. Things fill up quickly, even though I don’t understand how–as I mentioned, we saw very few people.

Dustin grew up in Quesnel, British Columbia, and began riding on the back of his father's motorcycle many years ago. He has a doctorate of Community Health with a speciality in Indigenous Health. He currently works several contract positions with Indigenous organizations across Canada. Dustin's publication credits include The Globe and Mail, CBC, and Vice News, along with several extreme sport magazines such as Explore, Sidetracked, Canoe and Kayak, and Paddle Magazine. Dustin and Janel currently live in Powell River, British Columbia.

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It’s your

Asphalt Sometimes you see a simple idea and know somebody is going to monetize it–just not you. Dale got me thinking when he emailed a picture to a bunch of us. It was a picture of a cool sign pulled from some motorcycle web site. On that sign were these magical words: Never blame someone else for the road you’re on. That’s your own asphalt. I knew I would want to use that but wanted to give credit to the source. Let’s do a Google image search. No luck. OK, let’s just search for those words as a text string. Oh dear, monetization overload. Want to buy a cool shirt with the phrase on it? Want some printed products? Want an image you can use with your Cricut machine? I mean that thought is all over the internet as are lists of “great roads,” along with the means to move them as routes onto a phone or GPS. That got me thinking about my own “once upon a time” great idea. But let me give you a bit of context. Back in the day things were different. I mean, today folks don’t know how easy they have it. Today, there is road information overload. First off, for all the internet literati out there, try to picture a time when there was no internet, when cell phones did not exist, much less smart phones. There were no websites

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comparing prices at hotels, no sites even listing hotels. There were, however, Rand McNally atlases. Don’t want a big book with each state map along with that state’s key metro highlighted with its own map? No problem. As you rode into each state you could find foldable state maps on a rack at most gas stations or get one at the state visitor center. In fact, that was the entire purpose of a visitor center. They might even have staff that could help you book a hotel room. Hard to believe, I know. Did I mention there was no such thing as a GPS? What was a rider to do? Well, there was something called AAA which had TourBooks and TripTiks. AAA Tour Books covered states and regions. They were particularly useful as they listed hotels with a focus on those offering a deal to AAA members. You could ask AAA to route you, which resulted in cool flip book contraption–a TripTik–that showed your highway and route in chunks, so when you completed one chunk, you flipped to the next. To their credit AAA has now re-imagined these tools for the digital age, and their online routing program is worth a look if you are an AAA member. In the past, the printed Tour Books re-purposed

Rand McNally maps which all had those little green lines on them to indicate scenic routes. Well, many of us got to know great riding roads the old fashion way–through local club members who knew day ride roads worth riding. More adventurous? Just show up at one of the many local club rallies at great locations nationwide and ask the local riders! You would have thought that BMW dealers would get involved or even the brand itself. Nope. Many dealers back then were small outfits with enough on their hands. Then there was BMW itself. Naturally, when they took a shot at it back then they did it the “BMW way.” That means they did not seek input from U.S. riders or clubs. Why do that when you can contact MapQuest to produce a national map? You can then highlight scenic rides taken from National Geographic’s “Guide to Scenic Highways and Byways.” This “BMW U.S. Scenic Roads” map was produced in 1999. Why is that important? Well now, that is about the time that broadband was being implemented in various metro areas. As well, this event happened (so says Wikipedia): “In 1998, AOL purchased Netscape for $4.2 billion. In 2001, at the height of its popularity, it


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purchased the media conglomerate Time Warner in the largest merger in U.S. history.” In short, the internet exploded, and folks who knew how to monetize things jumped in. The BMW scenic rides map missed every important technical scenic ride. A scenic motorcycle ride from a Raider’s point of view has to be technical and not just scenic. My guess is that the BMW map was really for guys rolling BMW cars. For example, how the heck can you have a motorcycle map that does not include the Beartooth Highway or roads in the Smoky Mountains. Utah 12 is on the map, but Colorado’s Million Dollar Highway is not. Instead, the flat land, no curve in sight Natchez Trace Parkway is offered. Clearly these folks did not have a clue when it came to great riding roads that are also scenic. They do include a bunch of short runs like 26 out of Marietta, Ohio, which are sweet. But, if including short rides, there are lots of quick thrill rides not included, like 151 off the Blue Ridge Parkway. If you read between the lines, you can see a more general point here, namely, that it is always a great idea to prioritize roads that have elevation changes and not just roads with curves–for which reason the famous Tail of the Dragon’s Tail is not on my personal list. But that BMW map and the internet got me to thinking. Well, one thing came from it: Dancin’ Dave’s Folly. It was apparent early on that Dancin’ Dave’s reach exceeded his grasp and that this labor of love was more work than I could handle. Here is how my simple idea created my road to Hades. You want to get a list of great riding roads? Simple. Get get skilled riders around the country to provide a list of the roads in their area that give them a challenge. So I did that, until I realized I was in over my head. But there’s more. You cannot just have a list of roads. You

will want to show them. Recall or not that in the late 1990s Microsoft released a web design program called FrontPage. By 2002 I had it. So around 2005, I decided to create a website, which remains unchanged from that date but is still alive. If you can find this site, I’ll roll out your way and buy you a beer or meet you in the middle. But to make this fun we have to use roads found on the site. Actually, I have a better idea. Read through to the end and I’ll lay it on you. But let’s get back to my folly. Today, no interactive element of that basically dormant website works. If you see a form of any sort or a mail link just ignore it. I started out with the Ozarks. Jim Hair was the go-to guy for input on great riding roads. I must have scanned maps to create a map image and then used photo shop to color code his road suggestions using yellow and green to differentiate scenic from technical roads. By a similar process I mapped out other areas and made them printable so they would fit into a typical tank bag map flap. But this story of the task was a bit much for someone who wanted to ride, not code, and had no design skills. Over time, through repeated visits to various parts of the country, Raiders created a favorite roads list. One day a few of us were in the Ozarks when two riders rolled into the hotel parking lot and struck up a conversation. “What brings you out this way?” we asked. “Mapping roads for Butler Maps. We’re Butler Scouts.” Say what? You mean somebody actually rode those roads on those maps? This has to be around 2010, as their first map came out that year. I’d already stopped working on my website. It took them a while, but once mobile phone apps and interactive websites appeared, it did not take them long to go

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R O A D TA L E S

from paper to digital. Hats off to those folks. Recognizing there was no need and no point in my continuing my little project (which was such a pain anyway), I moved on to helping riders figure out how to get routes into GPS units and share them with others, among other routing tasks. Into the mix in 2007 came Bob Higdon. This self-described “recovering lawyer” and eventual Iron Butt Association Scribe quit that occupation in his early 50s to just ride. Naturally he had the audacity to create an article for that other BMW club (published in OTL February/March 2007 issue.) He wrote it as a follow up to a conversation with someone asking him about great roads in Utah. And he modestly titled the piece “The Best Ride on Earth.” Now I seem to recall that Earth is a big place, and since I figured to know every great road in the U.S. by sight or reputation, I was of course hooked. In 2007 I was

riding a K bike with a big tank. I could go to Utah. Suffice it to say we decided to include elements of his road suggestions in our planning for the 2008 Out West ride. In fact, chunks of it ended up in our killer Torra Torra Torrey 1,500 miles in 24 hours ride, where we drop into the twisties at night to the point where you are for sure glad it is all over upon your arrival in Torrey. Dwelling on all of this has me thinking again about Redmond and possibly a different Raider Raid approach to next year’s MOA Rally. Jesse wants to start out

in Mexico and end up in Redmond, so we’d need to find great riding roads south of the border. I’m mindful that this year’s coast to coast Route 50 Raw ride included flights with riders joining in for segments but not the entire coast to coast ride. Let’s cut to the chase. Are you thinking of going to Redmond next year? Do you want to join a flight? We know the roads. Get in touch! It would be fun to see you not just at the rally but down the road!

Dancin’ Dave Cwi is a Life Member of the MOA as well as a Premier Member of the Iron Butt Association. He’s owned every series of BMW motorcycle from the Slash 2 to the modern RT, and has burned out his wife, who once loved motorcycling but sold her bikes after two trips with Dave. He pays for his riding addiction via marketing stints, including work in powersports. You will see him down the road.

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THE RIDE INSIDE

Confidence Man– The Good Kind The term “confidence man” denotes someone who exploits others’ trust for his own personal gain at their expense. Such swindlers are skilled at manipulating others by taking advantage of their insecurity and credulity, appealing to their vanity, and winning their loyalty by telling them what they want to hear. Once hooked, the victims voluntarily surrender their money, effort, independent judgment, and other resources in transactions that actually benefit only the idealized con man. The expected grand payoffs never materialize but seem perpetually imminent, and the cycle of promise and sacrifice can go on for a long time before the illusion is shattered or there’s simply no more left for the grifter to extract. This is not the kind of confidence man I’m going to talk about here, but keep this traditional meaning in mind. I have the tremendous good fortune of being friends with an extraordinarily accomplished rider and dedicated MSF instructor named Arthur Treff. I made his acquaintance years ago when we were both writing for Motorcycle Consumer News, and Art has many motorsports publications to his credit. In addition to being a highly skilled motorcyclist, pilot and skier, he’s a very sophisticated

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thinker and can articulate intricately complex matters in readily understandable language. He happens to live only a couple of hours away from me in the spectacular mountains of Western North Carolina—motorcycling paradise. I was thrilled when he agreed to help tune up my skills in preparation for the spring riding season in general, and a big European tour with IMTBike in particular. I’d learned a lot from individualized instruction at BMW’s Performance Center last fall, but hadn’t been able to practice as much as I’d wanted over the winter. I feared I’d lost some of those gains from disuse, on top of the usual rustiness that sets in during the “off” season, though I live far enough south that I still get to enjoy a smattering of decent riding days while many northern riders suffer uninterrupted deprivation. My insecurities were compounded by multiple uncertainties regarding my upcoming tour. I’d be with a group of complete strangers, riding an unfamiliar, big bike (a fully outfitted GS), traveling in countries I haven’t visited before, and navigating roads I expected to present novel challenges (e.g., narrower pavement and more extreme switchbacks than what we typically encounter in the U.S.). I did not want to be the guy everyone else always has to wait for, or who keeps dropping his bike—or worse. I imagined my tour companions as possessing far greater skill and travel savvy than I’d bring to the table, as this would be the first time in 50 years of motorcycling I’d be spending two continuous weeks exclusively on a bike. Surely the others would be vastly more experienced in such endeavors, and I’d be the lone newbie. Intellectually, I could poke holes in this fantasy: everyone has to have a first time doing anything, some in my group might be even rustier than me with their bikes in storage while I was riding, and just because someone signs up for an adventure doesn’t mean they’ve already


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mastered all the elements therein. Nevertheless, without some trustworthy way to gauge my own performance, I was vulnerable to much self-doubt. Even with faith my fellow tourers would be kind, supportive, and non-critical regarding my deficiencies, I wanted to be securely part of the group and not a straggler. I wanted to feel I belonged there with them, and it seemed I’d have the best chance of that if I did what I could to improve my riding. During the winter, I’d wandered the local mountains whenever weather and my unusually tight schedule allowed and I’d done parking lot drills to reinforce low-speed basics, but these hadn’t felt adequate. I had trouble coordinating schedules with my riding buddies, and mainly had to practice alone. Self-assessment is notoriously unreliable, and although I certainly recognized areas in need of improvement, I couldn’t

necessarily discern what must be done differently. What we think we’re doing and what we’re actually doing can be at considerable variance, even before we get to what we should be doing. Another set of eyes can be invaluable in getting an accurate perspective, better yet if those eyes belong to someone who a) knows proper technique, and b) can explain the needed changes in ways that generate “Aha!” experiences in the listener and build confidence instead of self-consciousness. Confidence and self-esteem come from two primary sources. There’s the obvious one, setting out to accomplish something and succeeding. And there’s one that can be trickier, receiving positive regard from someone we regard positively; we need people we believe in to believe in us. A cheapened version of the latter often takes its place: indiscriminate praise.

Some of my new friends met while touring Spain with IMTBike last year.

Simplistic pop psychology in the recent era has promoted this approach, with parents, educators, and HR departments endlessly streaming empty affirmations and struggling to avoid any trace of negative feedback for fear of discouraging their underlings. This actually tends to discredit such authorities as unable to tell the difference between good and bad performance, or it makes the recipients of this type of coddling feel either grandiosely entitled or so pathetically inept that their superiors must hunt for the faintest sign of competence to celebrate. It also leaves those in need of substantive guidance without it, since they’re deprived of a balanced assessment of what they’re doing well and what they need to improve. When someone seems overly positive in response to what we’re doing, we can dismiss their approval as too exaggerated to take seriously. Perhaps they don’t really know any better, or they’re “just being nice.” We may even grow suspicious of them as possibly working an angle on us, like the type of confidence man described at the beginning of this essay. All these reactions are more likely when we harbor serious doubts about our abilities. Yes, we may crave reassurance we’re doing better than we thought, but we often tend to believe our own emotionally driven perspectives over incoming data from outside sources. We can also cling to a negative self-opinion for other reasons, such as fears of being seen (by others or ourselves) as conceited, or apprehension about getting our hopes up too high, only to then be more severely disappointed by any shortfalls. Better to keep our own and everyone else’s expectations low, right? I don’t only see these dynamics in my work as a psychotherapist, I’m all too

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familiar with them in my own psyche. I can have real difficulty taking a compliment, with a long list of well-practiced (albeit usually unvoiced) counterarguments on tap. I’m much better about this now than in the past, but there are still a few glitches in my ability to digest praise without choking. So when I found myself taking in Art’s encouragement and reassurances at face value, I had to wonder what made them go down so easily. While the content of his instruction was certainly of great value, it was this aspect of the process that stuck out to me most. While the fact we have an established friendship undoubtedly made some contribution here, that could have just as easily been a reason to write off his support as kindness and generosity instead of an accurate reflection of my performance. Part of what makes Art a great teacher is his deep insight into not only the subject matter, but also the art of pedagogy. What was it about how he dealt with me that substantively elevated my confidence level and left me feeling more solidly optimistic about my tour? During the three days we worked together (it’s hard to call riding motorcycles “work,” but we were purposefully focused on skill-building), he put me through a variety of drills on the MSF range where he regularly teaches, and we rode both quite easy and quite difficult country roads—including some with exactly the kind of narrow, steep, ultra-tight switchbacks I anticipate in Europe. Throughout these exercises, Art took great care to provide crystal clear directions, with a straightforward focus on a streamlined set of specific actions and tactics, keeping the verbiage to a bare minimum but also responding to questions in whatever depth I sought. He was quick to correct my errors (“Eyes up!”), but always did so in the form of simple reminders that carried no hint of judgement; in fact, he almost always noted the universality of my problems (“We all have to practice eye work all the

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time.”). The implicit humility in this stance precluded any hint of one-upsmanship, which can be a contaminant in dealing with condescending, self-aggrandizing teachers who savor a sense of superiority in the instructional process; such teachers can reduce their students’ confidence to fortify their own. When Art noted something I’d done well, or at least better than before, it typically came after I’d already demonstrated the improvement to myself. Maybe I hadn’t fully appreciated what I’d done differently, but I had an experiential reference point, a hook on which to hang his words. I’d felt a difference by following his instructions; his acknowledgement of the change captured it in language and made it available for subsequent reflection—and it was instantly, undeniably credible. Trustful respect also played a big part. It’s not very gratifying to be well thought of by someone we look down on. Conversely, it’s quite a prize to be regarded well by someone we admire. I didn’t need any skill exhibitions to consider Art a highly competent rider; I already knew enough of his history of extensive training and accomplishments to have no doubts about his bona fides. Yet it was impressive to watch him demonstrate techniques with precision, grace and ease. Even more impressive was the way in which he’d developed such abilities: relentless practice. Living just five minutes from the range has

made regularly spending countless solo hours there convenient, with thousands of repetitions cementing good habits in place and revealing kinks that need attention. The intense dedication to life-long learning required to continually invest that much time is genuinely extraordinary and inspirational. His fascination with all the elements of riding and his capacity for patient focus have made this type of activity engrossing instead of tedious. He knows what he knows from doing it, not merely learning about it intellectually. By contrast, I can become enamored of concepts, but then fall short on collecting those experiential reference points that make “book learning” come alive, turn into muscle memory, and become much more readily actionable in real world applications. What happened over the course of my long weekend with Art included more variables than I’ve noted here, but central to its success for me was the contribution of lived experience. It not only anchored Art’s compliments so I could take them to heart, but it also served as evidence of his teaching’s authenticity and verified his assessment of my abilities. These made him a “confidence man” in the best sense of that term. He inspired my confidence in both of us. What a great model for how all of us should approach the task of passing on what we’ve learned to other riders!

Mark Barnes is a clinical psychologist and motojournalist. To read more of his writings, check out his book Why We Ride: A Psychologist Explains the Motorcyclist’s Mind and the Love Affair Between Rider, Bike and Road, currently available in paperback through Amazon and other retailers.


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Welcome our newest MOA members Luis Ãvalos Cleburne, TX Gerardo Abreu Miami, FL Greg Aitken Ashland, OR Henry Alaman Bend, OR George Alias Orland Park, IL Joshua Allen Milwaukee, WI Michael Anderson Xenia, OH Stephen Anderson West Bend, WI Tim Apps Bondville, VT Michael Arpin West Hartford, CT Ryan Aydelott Kalispell, MT Mark Ayers Philomath, OR Mark Balisacan Arlington Heights, IL Eric Ball Walla Walla, WA Joshua Ballew Enterprise, AL Phillip Baloga Greenville, SC Fred Barnes Columbia, SC Sully Barr Parker, CO David Barson Killingworth, CT Scott Bartow Chesapeake, VA Norm Benedum Cambridge, WI Ashley Bennett Granville, OH Jerry Berentz Lebanon, KY Mark Bittner Schererville, IN Cesar Blardony Monroe Township, NJ Jeff Blaser Burlington, NC Michael Blizinski Mechanicville, NY Stefan Bokaie Petaluma, CA Elias Bolanos Springdale, AR Peter Borgia Schenetady, NY Brian Borkowski Fredericksburg, VA Blake Boyd Abilene, TX Robert Bradt Skaneateles, NY Kevin Breidenbach Villa Park, IL Brandon Bretz Marysville, WA Jeff Brown Colchester, CT Ken Brunson Cibolo, TX Michael Burkett Gilbert, SC Paul Burrows Ackworth, IA Kanaka Byraju Watervliet, NY Brian Carey East Haddam, CT Don Carino Batavia, IL Chris Carlson Lawrenceville, GA Tim Cassidy Kemmerer, WY Ellis Casteen Mountain City, TN Kyle Caulfield Mount Prospect, IL Albert Chapa Mission, TX Donald Check Henderson, NV Jim Christensen Lacey, WA James Cline Odessa, FL

74 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023

Tom Clouse West Richland, WA Joe Colbenson Monticello, MN Cicily Cooper Oakland, CA Mitchell Coushman Hermitage, TN David Cowan San Antonio, TX Herb Cowan Round Rock, TX Bill Coyne Granite Bay, CA Walt Crawford Lake Charles, LA Jonathan Creighton Denver, CO Corey Crump Carmel, IN Vic Cruz Wappingers Falls, NY Vern Danes Sooke, BC Mike Davis OR Thomas Deakins Bend, OR Michael DeCarlo Reading, PA Michel Desloover Tequesta, FL Abe Deusterman Fosston, MN Jim DeVincent Morgantown, WV Robert DeVincentis Simpsonville, SC Nicholas Dietmeier Lake Geneva, WI Jamie Dindal Bentleyville, PA James Drozdiak Brampton, ON Mark Duckworth Murrells Inlet, SC Jerome Duletzke Lake Oswego, OR Darryl Dunham Lexington, KY Jason Eby Annville, PA Sean Ellerson Highlands Ranch, CO Matt Erickson Palos Heights, IL Tate Eskew Bon Aqua, TN Pat Esposito West Chester, PA TJ Evans Bethania, QLD Doug Evans Elmhurst, IL Tim Evans Brooklyn, NY Jim Faller Boulder, CO William Farmer Chesnee, SC Michael Faulkner Springfield, VA Christian Fekete Rhinebeck, NY Joey Ferguson Pawleys Island, SC Robert Fey Chicago, IL Robert Firpo Castleton, VT David Fish Chambersburg, PA Aaron Fitzgerald Lucas, OH Richard Foster North Vancouver, BC Thomas Fox New York, NY Derek Franco Easley, SC Joe Frechette Corvallis, MT Carlos Freitas Clifton Park Robert Frey New Port Richey, FL Gary Frey Zanesville, OH Michal Gabriel Alexandria, VA

Michael Gadeken Grand Junction, CO Scott Gandy Syracuse, UT Gaylon Garrison Desoto, TX Matt Gartner Englewood, CO Jeff Gately Brevard, NC Jake Gaultney Albuquerque, NM Philip Gibbens Jacksonville, FL Eric Gietl Kemah, TX Brad Gilmore Minneapolis, MN Noah Goldstein Atlanta, GA Raul Gonzales Boerne, TX David Goward Garden City, MI Ron Green Kitchener, ON James Greene Huntsville, AL Rodney Greer Collingwood, ON Michael Griff Tarpon Springs, FL David Gullion Bland, VA Erik Hanrahan Center Conway, NH Peter Hanushewsky Arlington Heights, IL Shad Hardy Gilbert, AZ Patrick Harrington West Linn, OR William Harris Albuquerque, NM Michael Harris Fair Haven, VT Molly Harrison Reston, VA Dan Hawley Harleysville, PA George Heberling Harrington, DE Tracy Helms Eagan, MN Christopher Henry Greenville, SC Clifford Holland Eustace, TX Steven Holmes Hawthorne, FL Stephen Holt Brunswick, ME Lucian Hood Los Angeles, CA Edward Hope Flagstaff, AZ Carl Huni Debary, FL Shawn Hussong Norman, OK June Hutchison Englewood, CO Robert Hyde Plymouth, MN Mauricio Lacuelli Lake Havasu City, AZ Rob Izzo Knightdale, NC David Jackson Wichita, KS Pam Jacobs Cedar Rapids, IA David Jennings Mesa, CO John Johannes Waukesha, WI Adam Johnson Centennial, CO Jeffrey Johnston Headland, AL Zachary Jones Negley, OH Andrew Jones Laveen, AZ Timothy Jones Lansdale, PA Keith Jose Dixon, CA Michael Jushka Wauwatosa, WI


“Ive owned many BMW’s (F650GS, R1100RT, K75S) I currently own a 2006 R1200GS and about 3 months ago I purchased a beautiful 1993 R100RT with only 53k miles from the original owner. It happens to have the ultra rare euro police light package which works like a charm and draws a lot of attention to those in the know. Daren gave me a shout out on his podcast (w/Chuck Sherman) for the upcoming survivor series. Ive been contemplating an airhead the past 3-4 years (before covid) for that old school Fahrvergnugen as well as listening to the Airhead 247 podcast with Daren Dortin. I also know many Airheads from the local Portland, Oregon club, they are a great community of people and riders willing to help, knowledge and appreciation for these mechanical beasts. Another thing about BMW is that most owners are riders not just owners. Ive been to many motorcycle events where 50-75% of bikes in the parking lot were BMW’s, that’s a testament to these machines.” – Keith Picone #232068

Akash Kakkaragolla Manjunath Smyrna, GA

Dennis Kelly Amissville, VA Chris King North San Juan, CA Marshall Kitchen Hays, KS Kenta Koga Londonderry, NH Jon Kokus Lancaster, PA Lloyd Koppes Saint David, AZ Phillip Kothmann San Angelo, TX Edward Krupa Crosswicks, NJ Eric Kunkle Phillipsburg, NJ Greg Kuper Gallatin, TN Wei L Upper Chichester, PA John LaMastra Lenhartsville, PA Tony Lasaracina Salem, CT MIke Legge Calgary, AB Gregory Leitza Springbrook, WI Christopher Lewis Durham, NC Clint Lewis Lubbock, TX Aaron Likes Des Plaines, IL Mark Lindstone Aurora, CO Jaroslaw Lipsa Joliet, IL Bruce Loebach Sioux Falls, SD Jon Long Telford, PA Zachary Lothringer Pasadena, TX Kerri Lundy Erie, CO Andrew Mahle Marble, PA Mark Mangus Willow Spring, NC

Seth Markowitz Danville, VA Charlie Marshall Leadville, CO Luis Maturana Midlothian, VA Shannon Mauck Easley, SC Renee Maxfield Chattanooga, TN Delbert May Phoenix, AZ Chad Mayard Bennett, CO Bob Mayer Connersville, IN Michael McClellan Conway, SC John McCormick Vernon, NY Chelsea McDonald Port Hope, ON Brian McIntyre Aurora, CO Minako McMahon Pleasant Hill, CA Laurie McSeveney Stanwood, WA Steve Menzie Scarborough, ON Fredoric Meunier Gatineau, QC B Miller Brambleton, VA Marvin Miller Baltic, OH Trisha Moore Birmingham, AL Jeff Moore Corona, CA Brett Morehead Hurst, TX Jeffrey Morrow Stonington, CT Michael Mousseau Roseville, MI Vincent Mowad Reading, PA Keith Murbach Libertyville, IL Tom Murray Fleetwood, PA James Neeper Peyton, CO

Brent Neisinger Cold Spring, MN Bobby Nelson Naples, FL Kyle Nelson Chesterton, IN David Nicholson West Dundee, IL Jose Nunez-Regueiro Ann Arbor, MI Sean O’Connor Camp Hill, PA Sean Ogden Los Alamos, NM David Orr Jacksonville, FL Ike Ozis Sewickley, PA Marek Pankuch Staten Island, NY Andrew Paremski Franklin, WI Donald Parish Greenfield, IN Catheron Pate Etowah, TN Vachel Pennebaker Fairview, NC Elizabeth Pennebaker Fairfax Larry Phelps Edmond, OK Glen Phelps Newport, MI Keith Picone Portland, OR Darren Pipp New Glarus, WI Gene Pitzer Coos Bay, OR Kyle Platfoot Travelers Rest, SC Kevin Pope Tallahassee, FL Bill Prevette Graeagle-Blairsden, CA Mike Prosser Auburn, MA Edward Puzio Carlsbad, CA Phil Quimby Pittsboro, NC Rick Randolph Clanton, AL

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

75


NEWEST MEMBERS

I bought my first BMW last May–a 2002 K 1200 LT and loved it so much I bought a 2009 R 1200 GS. I ride every week as I travel for work and tell people I get paid to ride my motorcycle because of travel reimbursements! I have four kids–two in college and two in high school which explains why I have to buy old bikes and not new ones. – Clif Holland #234675

Branden Reams Brighton, CO Ryan Redemann Madison, WI Rodger Reed West Columbia, SC James Regan New Ipswich, NH Mark Rense Chesterland, OH Richard Reyno DPO, AE Bob Reynolds Apex, NC Jo Rittermeyer Olathe, KS Charles Roberts La Grange, TX Joseph Robertson Marietta, GA Scott Robinson Colorado Springs, CO George Roetenberg Morrisville, FM Daniel Roy Greater Lakeburn, NB Gary Russell Tonawanda, NY Mason Sandy Chicago, IL Paul Santana Mont Vernon, NH Joseph Santana Waynesboro, VA Bentley Sayachack Carpentersville, IL Stuart Schechter Commerce City, CO Kirk Schimpf Wood Dale, IL Claudia Schruhl Charlotte, NC Anthony Schummel Lititz, PA James Scobey Hopkins, MI Steven Scofield West Lafayette, IN Mark Shapiro Round Lake, IL Grayson Shiprek New Albany, IN John Sibole Mount Gretna, PA Spencer Simon Fair Haven, NJ Bartlomiej Siwicki Bloomingdale, IL Dustin Smith Jasper, GA Jim Smyth Brighton, MI Chris Snapp Lexington, KY

76 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023

Colin Snyder Northfield, VT James Sofchek Statesville, NC Jeffrey Soper Flint, MI Eric Sortland Rapid City, SD Brett Space Montague, NJ Mark St Vincent Cook, MN John Stasinos Palatine, IL Mark Stevens Benicia, CA Cory Stirling Casper, WY John Stock Green Valley, AZ Rhett Stone Friendsville, TN Bruce Strachan Barre, VT Greg Stringfellow Magnolia, TX Alexandra Supron Brooklyn, NY Matthew Suter Bethlehem, PA Richard Swann Athens, ON Richard Swendsen Prescott, AZ Cheryl Teague Centennial, CO Rick Testa High Springs, FL Todd Thomas Williston, ND Richard Thomas Saint Paul, MN Dean Thorsen Dalton, MN Bradley Tilton Shreveport, LA Mark Tippett Herndon, VA Edward Titanich Edmonton, AB Jeff Tolley Westminster, MD John Treat Dexter, MI Robert Trimmer Willits, CA Alvaro Trujillo Hopewell, NJ Ruslana Tsurikova Framingham, MA Harold Tukey Williamsburg, VA Timothy Ulrich Appleton, WI

Steve Van Scyoc Annville, PA John Vander Zee Cedar Rapids, IA Michael Vander Zee Cedar Rapids, IA Steven VanderVeen St Charles, IL Richard Varnold Galesburg, IL Stephen Vasko Auburn, PA Nelson Velez Coatesville, PA Scott Vernon Mohnton, PA Stephen Vook Fallon, MT William Walch Greensburg, PA Joshua Walls Skokie, IL Mark Ward Scottsdale, AZ Charles Warner Old Lyme, CT Robert Warner Aiken, SC Scott Warrick Bloomington, IN Vann Waters Fletcher, NC Anthony Watlington Middletown, PA Rodney Watts San Antonio, TX Tyler West Oneida, TN Chris Wildt Boise, ID Dennis Wiley Hermitage, TN Karen Wille Brambleton, VA Michael Williams Madbury, NH Robert Williams Elizabeth, CO Chance Williams Aurora, CO Michael Wills Dallastown, PA Randy Wohlgemuth Colorado Springs, CO

Steven Wollersheim Elm Grove, WI Curtis Woodford San Francisco, CA Gar Yuen Camas, WA Stephen Zamierowski Scarborough, ME Romeo Zeppieri Whitby, ON Boris Ziser New Rochelle, NY


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Find an Event near You 11/02/2023 – 11/05/2023 GOAT ADV MOTOCAMP TOUR Langley, Oklahoma jgifford@bmwmoa.org

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78 BMW OWNERS NEWS | November 2023

1. Publication Title: BMW Owners News 2. Publication Number: 1080-5729 3. Filing Date: 09/28/23 4. Issue Frequency : MONTHLY 5. No. of Issues Published Annually: 12 6. Annual Subscription Price: $18.00 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 2350 Highway 101 South, Greer, SC 29651 Contact Person: Ted Moyer Telephone: (864) 438-0962 8. Complete Mailing Address of the Headquarters or General Business Office of the Publisher: 2350 Highway 101 South Greer, SC 29651 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher, Editor and Managing Editor: Bill Wiegand Publisher: BMW MOA, 2350 Highway 101 South, Greer, SC 29651 Editor: BILL WIEGAND, 2350 Highway 101 South, Greer, SC 29651 Managing Editor: SAME AS ABOVE 10. Owner (Do not leave blank. If the publication is owned by a corporation, give the name and address of the corporation immediately followed by the names and addresses of all stockholders owning or holding 1 percent or more of the total amount of stock. If not owned by a corporation, give the names and addresses of the individual owners. If owned by a partnership or other unincorporated firm, give its name and address as well as those of each individual owner. If the publication is published by a nonprofit organization, give its name and address.) Full Name: BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Complete Mailing Address: 2350 Highway 101 South, Greer, SC 29651 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgagees, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages or Other Securities: NONE 12. Tax Status (For completion by nonprofit organizations authorized to mail at special rates.) The purpose, function, and nonprofit status of this organization and the exempt status for federal income tax purposes: HAS NOT CHANGED DURING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS. 13. Publication Title: BMW Owners News 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: 11/01/2023 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation Average No. Actual No. CLUB MEMBERSHIP BENEFIT Copies Each Copies of Issue During Single Issue Preceding Published 12 Months Nearest to Filing Date a. Total Number of Copies (Net Press Run) b. Paid Circulation (By Mail and Outside the Mail (1) Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof copies, and exchange copies) 21,789 21,216 (2) Mailed in-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on Form 3541 (Include advertisers’ proof and exchange copies) — — (3) Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Non-USPS Paid Distribtion — — (4) Other Classes Mailed Through the USPS — — c. Total Paid Distribution [Sum of 15b(1), (2), (3), and (4)] 21,789 21,216 d. Free Distibution by Mail, (Samples, complimentary, and other free) (1) Outside-County as Stated on Form 218 211 (2) In-County as Stated on Form 3541 — — (3) Other Classes Mailed Through the USPS — — (4) Free Distribution Outside the Mail (Carriers or other means) 169 200 e. Total free distribution [Sum 15d, (1), (2), (3),(4)] 387 411 f. Total Distribution (Sum of 15c and 15e) 22,176 21,627 g. Copies Not Distributed 54 42 h. Total (Sum of 15f and g) 22,230 21,669 i. Percent Paid (15c, divided by 15f, times 100) 98.3% 98.1% 16. Electronic Copy Circulation a. Paid Electronic Copies 2,395 2,395 b. Total Paid Print Copies (Line 15c) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a) 24,184 23,611 c. Total Print Distribution (Line 15f) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a) 24,571 24,022 d. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies (16b divided by 16c x 100) 98.4% 98.3% 17. Publication of Statement of Ownership. PUBLICATION REQUIRED. Will be printed in the November 2023 issue of this publication. 18. Signature and Title of Editor, Publisher, Business Manager, or Owner: Ted Moyer, Executive Director Date: September 28, 2023 I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleadling information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including multiple damages and civil penalties).


ADVERTISING INDEX

EDITORIAL

Managing Editor BILL WIEGAND | bill@bmwmoa.org Art Director KARIN HALKER | karin@bmwmoa.org Digital Media Editor WES FLEMING | wes@bmwmoa.org Associate Editor RON DAVIS Associate Editor JOSE ABILES

CONTRIBUTORS

BMW Motorrad, Ian Feinberg, Chad Garcia, Jennifer Ott, David Marrier, gordon Rosete, Steve Abell, Marlen Padberg, Edgar Williams, Matt Hines, Robert McIsaac, Mark Thompson, Mark Barnes, Matt Parkhouse, Wes Fleming, Alan Toney, Dustin Silvey, David Cwi, and Rodney Sherwood

SALES & MARKETING

Advertising Director CHRIS HUGHES | chris@bmwmoa.org Business Development Director CHAD WARNER | chad@bmwmoa.org Executive Director TED MOYER | ted@bmwmoa.org

MEMBER SERVICES

Membership Associate TONYA MCMEANS | tonya@bmwmoa.org Membership Manager PAULA FITZER | paula.fitzer@bmwmoa.org Chief Operating Officer BECKY SMITH | becky.smith@bmwmoa.org

MEMBERSHIP

BMW MOA Headquarters 2350 Hwy. 101 South, Greer, SC 29651 (864) 438-0962 Membership in the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America is open to all riders, regardless of brand affiliation. Although we are united by the BMW marque, adventure-minded motorcyclists will find a home here. Join today by visiting bmwmoa.org or call one of our friendly membership associates at 864-438-0962.

BMWMOA.ORG

Adaptive Technologies.......................... 67 Adriatic Moto Tours................................. 35 Adventure New Zealand Tours........... 73 Aerostich-Rider WearHouse................. 25 Alaska Leather........................................... 35 Beemer Boneyard.................................... 21 Beemer Shop, The.................................... 73 Best Rest Products/Cycle Pump......... 73 Black Box Embedded.............................. 31 Boxer Works Service................................ 73 Capital Cycle.............................................. 69 Cyclenutz..................................................... 34 Don’t Want a Pickle.................................. 35 Euro Moto Electrics................................. 31 Geza Gear.................................................... 67 Helmet Sun Blocker................................. 25 HEX ezCAN................................................. 21 Ilium Works................................................. 69 IMTBike Tours............................................ 31 Kermit Chair Company........................... 69 M4Moto....................................................... 77 MachineartMoto...................................... 77 Max BMW.......................................................1 MOA Klim Gear.........................................BC Morton’s BMW..............................................9 Moto Bike Jack.......................................... 34 Moto Bins.................................................... 69 Motorcycle Relief Project.................... IBC Mountain Master Truck Equip......34, 67 Overseas Speedometer......................... 73 Progressive Insurance...............................3 Redverz........................................................ 77 Re-Psycle BMW Parts.............................. 73 Rider Magazine......................................... 78 Roadrunner Magazine........................... 77 Rocky Creek Designs.................................5 Ron Davis - Rubber Side Down........... 73 Russel Cycle Products............................. 25 Sargent Cycle Products.......................... 25 Touratech...................................................IFC Vanson Leathers....................................... 35 Ztechnik..........................................................9

BMW ON (ISSN:1080-5729) (USPS: 735-590) (BMW Owners News) is published monthly by BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Inc., 2350 Hwy 101 South, Greer, SC 29651. Periodicals postage paid at Greer, SC and additional mailing offices. Opinions and positions stated in materials/articles herein are those of the authors and not by the fact of publication necessarily those of BMW MOA; publication of advertising material is not an endorsement by BMW MOA of the advertised product or service. The material is presented as information for the reader. BMW MOA does not perform independent research on submitted articles or advertising. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO BMW ON, 2350 Hwy 101 South, Greer, SC 29651 ©2023 by BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Inc. All information furnished herein is provided by and for the members of BMW Motorcycle Owners of America, Inc. Unless otherwise stated, none of the information (including technical material) printed herein necessarily bears endorsement or approval by BMW MOA, BMW NA, the factory or the editors. The editors and publisher cannot be held liable for its accuracy. Printed in the USA. Volume 53, Number 11

November 2023 | BMW OWNERS NEWS

79


TA I L I G H T

Outstanding! He’s an outstanding rider and an outstanding BMW MOA member found out standing in tha field! Photo by Rodney Sherwood #146122


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