December 2018 BMW Owners News

DECEMBER 2018

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BMW OWNERS NEWS – A PUBLICATION OF THE BMW MOTORCYCLE OWNERS OF AMERICA

DECEMBER 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS www.bmwmoa.org

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The BMW MOA Holiday Gift Guide Struggling to find a gift for the BMW rider on your gift list? Peruse the pages of the BMW Owners News Holiday Gift Guide for perfect solution.

the summer of smoke, riding across the great basin to the beartooth

By Wynne Benti #136810 Between the eastern edge of California and emcompassing nearly all of Nevada, most of Oregon and Utah and parts of Idaho and Wyoming, lies The Great Basin where miles are measured by landmarks–a tree filled with shoes, a rusted water tank, a black mailbox–each with its own story.

hacking the bagger

By Kurtis Minder #141660 Hacking can take many forms. Simply put, it is using something in a way that was unintended by the creator. I planned on hacking a BMW K 1600 Bagger—sorry, BMW!

a sublime loop around the southwestern states

By Lisa Morris #205543, Photography by Jason Spafford Sometimes I wonder if it’s a biological need that compels us to seek the excitement that comes in an unfamiliar place. I never know if a place will pull, prickle, tickle or tease, challenge or enlighten me.

I must say, the southwestern United States have filled me with boundless joy and warmth.

ON THE COVER: R iding the twisties of the Million Dollar Highway to Silverton, Colorado. Photo by Jason Spafford.

the club 4 Owners News Contributors 8 Headlight Living in Flyover Country, by Bill Wiegand 10 President's Column Happy Holidays, by Wes Fitzer 12 Postcards from the Road 14 Rider to Rider Letters from our Members 16 Shiny Side Up Rehab, Revisited, by Ron Davis Member tested/ product news 18 – MirrorLok mirror extenders

– BMW Rallye gloves – Hippo Hands – Clearwater Lights Darla LED lights

28 Congratulations to our latest MOA Helping Hands Awardees, Buy BMW parts and accessories at showbmwmotorcycles.com, Motonation’s new Trilobite Rally jacket, MOA donates more than $10,000 to Motorcycle Relief Project, AIMExpo wrap-up, The excitement of winning, How to nominate someone to be a BMW MOA Ambassador, BMW MOA 2019 Election Call for Candidates.

skills 80 From the Foundation When training trumps riding,

by Ted Moyer

82 The Mountain Line, by James Ford lifestyle 84 Mileage Slaves Pucked Again, by David Cwi 86 Rally Review Another Gathering of the Tribe,

by Marina Ackerson

88 Jack the Riepe The Gift of the K 75 Magi, by Jack Riepe events 92 When and Where Places to Go and Things to Do 95 Advertiser Index 96 Talelight

tech 40 Keep ‘em Flying Crossing Europe, by Matthew Parkhouse 42 Torque of the Matter Ohhhmmm... Ohhhhmmm, Part 3

by Wes Fleming

Monarch Pass in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. Photo by Jason Spafford

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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the club

CONTRIBUTORS 1. Kurtis Minder is a motorcyclist, hiker, runner, biker and entrepreneur based in Arlington, Virginia. He began his motorcycling career riding with his father-in-law and found the BMW motorcycling culture to be a fit. Focusing on safety, wellness and minimalism, he enjoys annual cross-country trips on his R 1200 GS. Kurtis serves as the Vice President of the BMW Bikers of Metropolitan Washington (MOA charter club #40) and is the CEO of a Information Security company based in the Washington, D.C. area.

2. Before

learning to ride ten years ago, Wynne Benti was a hiker. She was the 105th person to climb the Sierra Club’s Desert Peaks list of 99+ mountains across the Southwest and Baja, including Baboquivari Peak, Weaver’s Needle, El Picacho del Diablo, and North and South Guardian Angel. She was also the 264th person to complete the Hundred Peaks list of 310 mountain summits in Southern California. An avid paddler, Wynne has canoed from Whitehorse to Dawson City on the Yukon River and later paralleled that route on a motorcycle. Wynne received her BMW MOA 100,000 high mileage award in October 2018. A ten-year member of BMW Motorcycle Club of Northern California, Wynne lives in Bishop California with her two red Queensland heelers, Rose and Watson.

3. L isa Morris and Jason Spafford are self-confessed thrillseekers motivated by adventure travel. Before hitting the road, the pair organized scuba diving trips around the watery globe as instructor dive guides. Having hung up their fins, they jumped into their saddles and have motorcycled their way from Antarctica to the Arctic over the last four and a half years, riding until they ran out of road. Lisa is an advocate for female riders and regularly consults with manufacturers of

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

women’s motorcycle gear. Not the most natural off-road rider, she’s living proof that you can pass your test, jump in the saddle and go. While they’re spirited advocates for nomadic living, Jason is a professional photographer chasing light in big open spaces while Lisa is the scribe detailing their roadside musings for various travel and overland publications.

4. S ince 2006, Jim Ford has been coaching riders in the Art of Riding Smooth through the Rider’s Workshops, his two-day riding experience targeted at intermediate to advanced riders. Skills learned during the Rider’s Workshop will take riders to the next level, especially in taking curves with confidence.

His classroom is the “Invisible Roads of the Blue Ridge” and the Appalachian Mountains.

5. M att Parkhouse acquired his first BMW in 1972, upon his return from Vietnam. He hired on at Doc's BMW of Colorado Springs in 1977. Since then, his life has been a mixture of travel (U.S., Mexico, Europe and North Africa), owning/working in various shops, working as a nurse, and being very involved in his local community. He has owned around fifteen airhead BMWs over the years, but his first bike, a 1972 R75/5, is parked by the front door with 423,000 miles on the odometer.

6. D ancin’ Dave Cwi is a Life Member of the MOA as well as a Premier Member of the Iron Butt Association. He's owned every series of BMW motorcycle from the /2 to the modern RT, and has burned out his wife, who once loved motorcycling but sold her bikes after two trips with Dave. He pays for his riding addiction via marketing stints, including work in Power Sports. You will see him down the road.

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BMW OWNERS NEWS  December 2018

Meeting at the Rock Four of BMW's most popular models set up for a photo shoot along the Pacific Coast Highway near Malibu, California.

Photo by Steven Green #198919

December 2018  BMW OWNERS NEWS

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headlight

Magazine of the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America MANAGING EDITOR

Bill Wiegand bill@bmwmoa.org

ASSOCIATE EDITORS

Ron Davis • Wes Fleming ART DIRECTOR

Karin Halker karin@bmwmoa.org ADVERTISING

Advertising materials, including chartered club rally display advertising, should be sent to our Advertising Office. Please contact Chris Hughes for display rates, sizes and terms.

Chris Hughes chris@bmwmoa.org 509-921-2713 (p) 509-921-2713 (f ) BMW MOTORCYCLE OWNERS OF AMERICA

640 S. Main Street, Ste. 201 Greenville, SC 29601 864-438-0962 (p) 864-250-0038 (f )

Submissions should be sent to the BMW MOA office or editor@bmwmoa.org. Submissions accepted only from current members of the BMW MOA and assume granting of first serial publication rights within and on the BMW MOA website and use in any future compendium of articles. No payments will be made and submissions will not be returned.

The BMW MOA reserves the right to refuse, edit or modify submissions.

Opinions and positions stated in materials/articles herein are those of the authors and not by the fact of publication necessarily those of BMW MOA; publication of advertising material is not an endorsement by BMW MOA of the advertised product or service. The material is presented as information for the reader. BMW MOA does not perform independent research on submitted articles or advertising.

Change of address notification and membership inquiries should be made to the BMW MOA office or membership@bmwmoa.org. BMW MOA member-ship is $49/yr. and includes the BMW Owners News, which is not available separately.

Each additional family member is $19 without a subscription. Canadian members add $16 for postal surcharge.

The BMW MOA and MOA™ are trademarks of the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America.

OUR MISSION Supporting your experience by sharing resources, unique events and the community

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

Living in flyover country

By Bill Wiegand #180584 WHEN PEOPLE MENTION “FLYOVER COUNTRY,” I KNOW PRECISELY

what they’re referring to. It’s where I’ve spent the majority of my adult life.

A job with the News Bureau at the University of Illinois at UrbanaChampaign brought me to east-central Illinois many years ago. While my wife and I didn’t think we’d be there very long—just an early stop in our young careers—our family roots quickly grew deeper. Because of our growing family, new friends and careers, we stayed, though it seemed our hearts were always somewhere closer to our families a state away.

There was an excitement that accompanies living in a small city built around a big university, even though we were in the middle of prime corn and soybean country where only straight roads cut into the rich farmland and trees are only found in yards and parks. To borrow one of the selling points the university administration used when trying to recruit and sell the university to potential faculty, “We’re 90 minutes from Indianapolis, two hours south of Chicago and 200 miles from St. Louis.” Smack dab in middle of everything, they’d say.

In the middle of everything, unless you’re a motorcyclist and realize you’re surrounded by not much of anything. It’s always easy to envy riders lucky enough to have great riding opportunities at the end of their driveways, but the truth is, this has been a great place to live and raise our kids and some of those great areas to ride are only a few hundred miles of straight roads away.

Of the 35,000 or so miles I’ve got on my XR, most have been racked up getting to places where roads bend and altitude changes. This year, I’ve been fortunate to have had opportunities taking me to North Carolina, Wyoming, Texas, Vermont and Wisconsin. While I burned a lot of center-tire rubber getting there, it’s easy to see why these areas were chosen as sites for our MOA Getaways.

Right now, we’re working on a brochure detailing our 2019 MOA Getaways. While it’s set to be included with your January issue of Owners News, if you’re impatient and want to get a head start on next year’s travel planning, jump to page 26 of this issue for a look at where we’ll be.

Not sure what to expect at an MOA Getaway? While each Getaway venue offers its own unique experience, all are similar in that they’re hotel-based events running from Friday to Sunday. After your arrival and registration on Friday afternoon, that evening includes a social hour along with a casual dinner and discussion about must-ride roads and area landmarks. Saturdays are for riding then, and later that evening, a social hour and buffet dinner provide the opportunity to swap stories with old and new friends about your day. Throw in a short program, the presentation of a few riding awards along with some great door prizes and you’ve got a pretty good idea of what you can expect.

New this year, we’ll be kicking off the Getaway season in early February with an event in Orange Beach, Alabama, on the sandy beach of the Island House Hotel. What better way to get rid of your mid-winter blues than with a ride to the Gulf of Mexico. Other exciting, new locations include Cambria, California, and Pocono Manor, Pennsylvania.

Other MOA Getaways are set at longtime favorites Fontana Dam, North Carolina; Coeur D’Alene, Idaho; Eureka Springs, Arkansas; Copper Mountain, Colorado; Pine Mountain, Kentucky; Jay Peak, Vermont; Cedar City, Utah; Tomah, Wisconsin; and Kerrville, Texas.

I look forward to seeing you next year, somewhere outside flyover country. Until then, Happy Holidays.

www.progressive.com

PRESIDENTSCOLUMN

Happy Holidays BMW MOA OFFICERS

Wes Fitzer, President 918-773-7178; wes.fitzer@bmwmoa.org Reece Mullins, Vice President 334-470-7770; reece.mullins@bmwmoa.org Deb Lower, Secretary 719-510-9452; deb.lower@bmwmoa.org Sam Garst, Treasurer 414-704-7767; sam.garst@bmwmoa.org BMW MOA DIRECTORS

Tracy McCarty 913-238-3182; tracy.mccarty@bmwmoa.org Sue Rihn 262-424-2617; sue.rihn@bmwmoa.org Marc Souliere 613-828-1798; marc.souliere@bmwmoa.org Roger Trendowski 732-671-0514; roger.trendowski@bmwmoa.org Chad Warner 614-735-8558; chad.warner@bmwmoa.org BMW MOA VOLUNTEER STAFF

Jim Low, Mileage Contest Coordinator 608-347-5910; lowjim09@gmail.com Jim Heberling, High Mileage Coordinator 309-530-1951; jheberling@bmwmoa.org Jason Olson, Ambassador Liaison 507-276-5270; bmwjiggs@gmail.com Lee Woodring, Consumer Liaison 770-331-2419; lee.woodring@bmwmoa.org Joe Leung, Consumer Liaison 403-689-9939; joe.leung@bmwmoa.org Vance and Mari Harrelson, 2019 BMW MOA Rally Chair 2019rallychair@bmwmoa.org BMW MOTORCYCLE OWNERS OF AMERICA

640 640 S. Main Street, Ste. 201 Greenville, SC 29601

Robert C. Aldridge, Executive Director bob@bmwmoa.org Ted Moyer, Associate Executive Director tedm@bmwmoa.org Bill Wiegand, BMW Owners News Managing Editor bill@bmwmoa.org Karin Halker, Art Director karin@bmwmoa.org Ray Tubbs, Digital Marketing Manager ray@bmwmoa.org Wes Fleming, Associate Editor Digital wfleming@bmwmoa.org Lesa Howard, Membership Services lesa@bmwmoa.org

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

By Wes Fitzer #170126 THIS IS THE TIME OF YEAR WHEN MY EYES FILL WITH TEARS AS I

put my bike away for its long winter’s nap. I’m saddened by the fact that another riding season has passed and I’m stuck looking at my lonely bike from across the shop, wondering if she misses me as much as I miss her.

My mind drifts back to just a few months earlier as I recall riding over some distant mountain pass with the sun shining through my visor, warming my face.

But then, as we progress from early December through mid-December, my eyes begin to widen and a spark returns, as I think of all the cool riding apparel, gadgets, and gizmos that can be added to my riding stock through the wonderment of gift exchange.

As a child, I would spend hours lying in front of the fireplace, looking through dog-eared pages of the Sears and Roebuck catalogs, hoping my parents or even Santa himself might take note and purchase the much wanted, though not really needed items I’d spent so much time researching.

Fast-forward 40+ years (I’m being generous) and not much has changed. Today, I’ll spend the weeks leading up to my mid-December birthday and Christmas researching things that I want, but don't really need, in the hope that some of these items will take me further into my personal riding nirvana during the upcoming season. The only difference between my childhood and today is that we don’t get catalogs any longer, so I’m left with leaving browser windows open on the computer and putting items in the shopping cart in hopes my wife, children or the big guy at the North Pole will take note.

To be completely honest, I’ve had mixed results with this approach. Last year my wife told me she took all that motorcycle stuff out of the cart so she could make her purchases. Hello, McFly, those were in there for a reason, and the goal was for you to buy them for me!

This year I’ve decided to go old school and dog-ear pages from our annual Christmas shopping guide in the BMW Owners News. I’m hopeful this old-school approach might produce better results. When you see me at the rally or one of our many Getaway events ask me how it worked out. I’ve always believed in supporting those who support the organization I care so deeply for. When time allows, take a look through the offerings listed in this issue and give the old school approach a try to see how it works for you.

Another thing I may try is to talk my wife into combined gift giving and the promise to sign up early for several Getaway events (thus saving money) under the guise of spending more time together riding our bikes. I truly love my wife, and attending events such as our Getaway series and annual rally is so much more enjoyable for me with my beautiful bride (Not that I don’t also enjoy spending time with my MOA brethren).

Wish me luck and Happy Holidays.

P.S. This month, let’s all practice being kind to one another—that is indeed the greatest gift we can give one another.

Wes

Fitzer

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Postcardsfromtheroad

1 2 1. Taking a break somewhere between Dawson City, Yukon and Chicken, Alaska.

Jari Honkanen #134726 Monroe, Washington 2. A mural depicting the Old Iva Depot found along Highway 81 in Iva, South Carolina.

Ed Jorgensen #19152 Melbourne Village, Florida 3. Highway 101 between Wawa and Timmins in northern Ontario.

Richard Baldwin #214249 Meaford, Ontario 3

4. Near Bear Dance, Montana, and halfway through a 1,500-mile loop which began in Seattle.

Charles H. Porter #54193 Yarrow Point, Washington 5. A rainy ride on the Dragon.

David Brown #215788 St. Augustine, Florida 6. From a recent ride through Kings Canyon in central California.

Steve Bauman #154804 Clovis, California

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7. The old and the new. A 1977 R 100 RS next to a 2010 R 1200 RT at Cooking Lake, Alberta.

Marlen Padberg #212161 Sherwood Park, Alberta 8. Enjoying a ride on the Tail of the Dragon.

Cyril Munro #214248 East Sandwich, Massachusetts Each month we publish the great images sent to us by BMW MOA members as they tour the globe. Send us your best images and you could have your work published in our Postcards from the Road pages as well. Email your high-resolution images, image description and contact information to editor@ bmwmoa.org.

t

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RIDERTORIDER Send your letters and comments to: editor@bmwmoa.org

Nice apology

Wes Fitzer’s October 2018 President’s Column compelled me to write. Wes’s apology to the Porsche Club of America membership was exemplary!

In the future, when I am faced with rethinking something I’ve said or written, I only hope I will follow Wes’s lead and will do so with such grace and class. Likely, I will fall far short. Very hard to do, but very well done by Wes. He sets a great example we can all follow.

Craig Goodwin #143447 Cumming, Georgia

More Boots

I would like to compliment Ken Frick on the “Boots” photographic essay in the October issue of BMW Owners News. Compelling roadside subject matter, quality photos, and limited text, I like it! I applaud Ken for stopping and taking the time to do the work.

From my perspective, “Boots-style,” photography based articles are far superior to long, drawn out stories relating to “how I spent my summer vacation.”

Mike McCrary #148315 Austin, Texas

Slow your roll

Mid-way into our ride from Salt Lake City to attend the 33rd annual Autumn Beemer Bash in Quincy, California, we overnighted in Fallon, Nevada, to await the fourth member of our group. Unfortunately, we learned late in the evening that he had gone down (without injury) on the steep and winding descent into Austin, Nevada.

Apparently, a motorist decided to make an abrupt, non-signaled turn upon entering town and our friend hit the brakes, stalled, dumped the bike and then decided to return home. Little did I know

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

that a similar experience would shortly be mine—although this time caused by fellow BMW riders.

Our remaining threesome made it to Quincy in fine riding weather, and on the following Saturday morning I decided to go for a solo ride up SR 89 toward Greenville. Entering the town at less than the posted 25 MPH limit I could see Main Street up ahead as it crossed the highway.

I could also see a threesome of riders on Beemers at 2 o’clock heading southwest on Main Street to turn onto my roadway.

Having seen this movie before, I was somewhat prepared for the first rider to roll the stop sign and turn left. But then the second did the same and then the third, without so much as a look to right or left, turned in front of me. I hit the brakes, stalled the bike and managed a friendly gesture. This last move was my error, since it required removing one hand from the bars and almost caused me to topple over!

My point in telling this story is twofold.

First: Never roll a stop sign. When you approach a control signal you should be checking your review mirrors and looking at the ground where you plan to stop.

Only once your feet are on the ground should you start looking right and left. Of more consequence is the chance of making a hurried and improper assessment of crossing-traffic risk and not trying the lastminute stop.

Second: Never assume that the evaluation of intersection risk performed by your buddy up front applies to you, or for that matter, that it even meets the minimum safety factors necessary for him to proceed. None of us should be in such a hurry to remain on each other’s rear wheel that we adopt the Monkey See, Monkey Do approach to safe riding. It is essential to always RYOR, especially at intersections.

As for my Three Amigos, aside from a sheepish look on the face of the third rider, I was too flustered to notice make,

model and serial numbers, and who wants to go back to the rally to make a scene anyway?

I’m just hoping that one or more of you read this letter and [if it applies] reconsider your riding style.

David Haedt #207938 Gunnison, Colorado

Jay Peak Getaway

Hats off to Marc and his crew for a job well done in organizing this event. All attendees had a great time and the weather could not be any better for touring. The food was fantastic and plentiful. Looking forward to next year’s event!

John Pace #89808 Smithtown, New York

When to park it

I’m amazed at the amount of attention devoted to this subject recently. I would never presume to advise on the issue, but if you are interested, this is an approach that serves me so far: Ride every day if feasible. You will know right away when it’s time. Practice every ride. You will improve your most effective safety item, your competence. Don’t pick, or even anticipate, a quitting time; I would have quit 10 years ago by applying conventional wisdom. My age is not important to you, nor is your own for that matter. Ride as long as you love it.

Tom Feux #118048 Bellville, Texas

Tunnel tip

A buddy taught me this trick years ago: When heading towards a dark tunnel during daylight hours, close one eye three to five seconds before entering. Once you

enter the tunnel, open that eye and your eyes will adjust to the darkness much faster, and you will be able to see much better.

Simple and works great.

Mitch Friedman #138562 Port Washington, New York

Some great suggestions

In the October installment of his “Shiny Side Up” column, Ron Davis asked members to share their tips on staying safe while rolling down the road. While several members offered suggestions, Fred Fisher (#216813) offered a plethora of ideas including the following: When I drive my truck, I look to see what catches my eye when I first see other riders and try to do those things to make me more noticeable when I am riding.

Extra lights on the front, extra flashing brake light on the back, 3M reflective tape on the sides of the bike and a bright coat or shirt. I also use blind spot mirrors on both sides and always have good tires.

Tires are cheap compared to doctor bills or a funeral!

When braking hard for stopped traffic, I always try to head to the right rear of the vehicle in front of me, and I check my mirrors as soon as I hit my brakes. Motorcycles stop much faster than most cars and many motorcycle accidents are from cars not stopping in time and hitting the rear of the motorcycle. By aiming for the right rear of the car in front of you, you have the option of driving in the ditch or off the road around the car in front of you if the car behind you is not going to stop in time. This has saved me once! I was at a complete stop and could see in my mirror that the car coming up behind me was not slowing down. I pulled off the side of the road before the driver of the car behind me hit the brakes. The car stopped just short of the car that I pulled beside, but it would have hit me for sure!

When I am stopped and waiting for traffic to pass so I can turn left, I do a similar thing. I stop more in the center of my lane where I “should be” more visible, but right when I come to a stop, I slightly angle to the right with my right foot down. This way if I see someone is coming up behind

me too fast I can shoot off the right side of the road away from oncoming traffic.

When stopped in the road I am looking behind me in my mirrors as much as I am looking ahead. If you do this you will be surprised at how many people have to hit their brakes hard to stop that you would have never noticed before. Plus, by doing this enough you will also get good at judging a car’s speed as they come up on you, as your mirrors can deceive you a little.

Judge the drivers around you. Are they constantly looking around like they are lost or looking for a turn? Are they weaving, distracted by something? Are they looking down at their phone? Are they talking to a passenger or their kids and not paying attention? All these are signs that they are about to do something stupid or maybe try to kill you.

Don’t ride in a driver’s blind spot. Either pull up so they can see you or stay back and give yourself space. When passing cars, I always try to ride for just a second or two with my headlight shining right in their side mirror, then I don’t waste any time and try to get up where they can see me out of their side window easily.

I have raced Motocross since I was 10 years old and am still racing at 56. I know what a motorcycle feels like when it is sliding and know what to do to correct it. I feel this experience is valuable beyond belief! Most of the top motorcycle road racers train on or race motocross bikes to keep their skills in top shape. Rent a dirt bike and go have some fun. Learn what it feels like and learn what to do when your front or rear tire is sliding. Then when you hit that little bit of gravel on the pavement going around a corner, you won’t be in a panic.

It may sound like all this would just take the fun out of riding, but eventually you will do all of this without really thinking about it, it will become automatic. You will be riding safely and having fun. Just don’t get too complacent. If you ride a motorcycle, it’s only a matter of time before someone pulls out in front of you. If you are prepared, your chances of surviving to ride another day go up dramatically.

Fred Fisher #216813 Bellville, Ohio www.tristedthrottle.com/sw-motech December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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shinysideup

Rehab, revisited

By Ron Davis #111820 In my September column I described how a back injury left me with an opportunity to rehabilitate my back and my riding safety practices while I spoke with MOA members at the rally in Des Moines. I ended by inviting my loyal and presumably countless readers to offer their best practices when it comes to preserving your own skin while on the road. I got some great responses, full of tips that, while possibly not all original or unknown to many of us, certainly bear repeating…

One strategy that came up at the rally, which I, for lack of a better word, call “profiling,” generated an email from Bernie Peterson (#32673). In addition to paying special attention to obvious potential trouble spots like exits from schools, hospitals, etc., Bernie suggested keeping a lookout for RVs, since drivers may be navigating unfamiliar roads and may be renting their vehicles, thus new to their operation. Under the same token, he looks for U-Haul trucks—again, drivers probably unaccustomed to their vehicles and the area. “Profile like your life depends on it—it could save your life,”

wrote Bernie. Sounding a note similar to the ones made by safety experts like David Hough, Bernie also suggested riders, while staying on guard for distracted drivers, should consider their own mindset—distraction can work both ways. He added his personal slogan: “Half of them (drivers) are out to get you, and the other half don’t see you.”

Randall Beecham (#52893) and Charlie Rohlfing (#41330) both commented on the ever-present danger of cars waiting to pull out from driveways and side streets.

Though it’s natural to focus on the drivers’ eyes to see if they’re looking in your direction, they may be looking through or past you. Randall and Charlie believe in concentrating on a car or truck’s tires or wheels. Charlie made a good point when he wrote that detecting movement of an entire vehicle is harder than seeing it in a wheel, which, he contends, “magnifies” the motion. As Randall wrote, “Nothing is foolproof, but if the front tire is not moving, neither is the car.”

Like me, Steve Vetter , wrote that when he bought a new bike after being off one for two years, he started watching YouTube videos about riding safety. He wrote that one British video he watched demonstrated the “weave” technique, where a rider does a little wander side to side in his lane when coming up on vehicles waiting to turn left or pull out from side streets.

Member Rick Griffith (#49177) also endorsed this maneuver. Steve wrote, “I’m not sure how effective it will prove to be, but it’s fun for certain!”

How to make yourself more conspicuous was another popular thread in the emails I received. James Kennedy was high on Clearwater Lights’ Darla auxiliary light system (see “Member Tested” review in this issue). He wrote that he first noticed the Darlas’ effectiveness on a police bike. He wrote, “The Clearwater Darlas the officer had on his bike snapped my attention though he was a long way off and definitely not in my field of vision.” James also recommended adding amber lens covers to any DRLs (Daytime Running Lights), since they add more visibility and safety.

Along with making yourself more conspicuous to oncoming vehicles, Dennis Shaw (#166823) noted that staying visible to those in the rear is just as important.

Because of the narrow signature of a motorcycle, it can “hide” in the profile of a stopped vehicle in front of it. There is a plethora of inexpensive options for additional, inexpensive rear lighting, but Dennis wrote that he even toggles on his emergency flashers when stopped in traffic and cancels them when a car stops behind him.

More than one member wrote me comments that fall under the category of “bike position.” Though Glenn Evans (#162748)

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conceded his comment was probably out of one of David Hough’s books, he wrote that he tries to stay in the left lane when on a multi-lane highway since it reduces the number of vehicles surrounding him. He added that when in an exit lane, he automatically assumes someone is going to cross in front of him at the last minute.

Conversely, he watches out for cars in an exit lane to have what he calls “an OH CRAP! Moment” and cut left into his lane.

Following too closely was another tip that relates to bike position. James Patton (#62123) wrote, “Stay back from traffic and move to an area of the lane where you can get the best vantage point of the situation ahead on the road.” He continued, “I’m seventy years old and have slowed my pace…the wider following space helps me with reaction time and gives me more information to assess…I also see more scenery now!”

Al Bredberg (#14202) also zeroed in on where he positions himself on the street and highway. “Cars are not my friend—if they do not get near me, they cannot hit me. I have 16 feet of pavement and use it all. A moving target is hard to hit; I traverse my lane one side to the other in traffic, looking on the inside of a curve, and staying out of the grease strip in the middle.” Al added that on an empty highway he stays on the left track to give him a little extra cushion away from anything that might leap out from the roadside. Al wrote he doesn’t follow trucks, vans or “anything that blocks my vision,” though when riding at night (which he tries to avoid) he routinely follows a car just outside his low beams. “They’ll hit the animals before we do,” he wrote, and somewhat off the topic, suggested that this tenderizes the road kill, possibly for a Jack Riepe campsite dinner.

“I thought I saw Bigfoot eating fresh road kill once, all hunched over with a bottle of Scotch and a cigar, but it was Reipe. When I stopped and approached, he growled, bared his teeth and said, ‘It’s female and it’s mine.’ I threw a can of beer his way to distract him and rode off. True story.”

My apologies for any offense taken by the Honorable Mr. Riepe (though that certainly would be a switch!), and thanks to all those who sent me their tips. Their suggestions reaffirmed once more what continues to draw me to riding: there’s always something new to learn.

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The frames are lightweight and are super flexible.

The arms are very flat so they fit comfortably between your head and the helmet.

The lenses come in three different colors, Smoke, Yellow and Clear and include the dust seal, which can be taken off when not needed. The dust seal protects other irritants as well as peripheral light.

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MirrorLok mirror extenders

by Bill Wiegand #180584 SOMETIMES A PRODUCT SHOWS

up on your desk you didn’t know you needed. A creation from Al Jesse, the MirrorLok mirror extender was one such product. See more, less vibration, lock your stuff, the packaging said. The possibilities piqued my interest.

Like most riders, I’m used to a third of my mirrors showing my jacket sleeves and if there was a vibrating mass in the remaining twothirds, I’d know there was something behind me. As for locking gear to my bike, well, that just may be the icing on the cake, as the fear of having my gear stolen while on the road means anything not bolted to me or my bike accompanies me when going into restaurants, gas stations or rest areas.

Two thumbs up for MirrorLok marketing!

Included in the package were two MirrorLok units along with all necessary hardware to secure the MirrorLoks to my motorcycle and my mirrors to the MirrorLoks. A key is also included to release the MirrorLok shackle.

The MirrorLok body itself is a three-inch piece of machined aluminum with a counterbored hole on the top of the body at one end, and a larger counterbored hole drilled from the bottom of the MirrorLok body at the other end. Inside the larger counterbore are four o-rings surrounding a threaded insert which mates with and secures the mirrors to the unit.

The locking shackle pivots from near the center of the body and when installation is complete will close into the head of the Allen bolt

BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

holding the MirrorLok body to the motorcycle mirror mount.

Installation is simple and straightforward, requiring only an 8mm Allen wrench and an open-end wrench to fit your mirror.

Once you've removed your mirrors, place a spacer and o-ring over the mirror threads and thread the mirror to the threaded damper installed inside the MirrorLok and use an 8mm Allen wrench to tighten.

Because the damper will be compressing the o-rings inside the bore, how tight this connection is will determine how tight the

friction fit is and how easily the mirrors move. At this point, do not worry about mirror angle as this will be adjusted later.

Place the mounting bolt with lock washer into the other end of the MirrorLok and add one of the spacers below the unit to bring the MirrorLok above your control clusters. Position the MirrorLok unit so it is angled toward the ball end of your lever and tighten the bolt using the 8mm Allen

wrench. Repeat the procedure on the other side. Once both MirrorLoks are installed, adjust the mirrors as needed, being aware that your mirror stems will rotate, though stiffly, even though everything is snug. Lift and turn the locking shackle so that the end is positioned over the head of the 8mm Allen bolt. Push down the shackle and push in the lock button and the unit is now locked.

Installation of the left and right MirrorLok along with mirror adjustment on my S 1000 XR took less than 30 minutes.

On my test ride, the first thing I noticed was that instead of merely moving my eyes left and right to check my mirrors, I needed to turn my head as the mirrors are now positioned two inches further out than they were. I also noticed that I didn’t see much of my jacket sleeves anymore, but instead, much more of what was behind me. A significant difference indeed.

What I saw next was what really surprised me. What before could only have been seen as a red mass of vibrating movement, I could now make out as a red, latemodel Ford Mustang. I am very impressed.

Along with the MirrorLok unit, I received two plastic-coated cables with loops at each end. The 16” cable would be perfect for securing a helmet while the longer, 42” cable able to secure a jacket. Suddenly, my fear of having gear stolen while out on the road went down significantly. A surprising product that works surprisingly well.

The MirrorLok and cables are available at motomanufacturing.com. MSRP for the MirrorLok is $135 while the 16” cable sells for $8.95 and the 42” cable is $12.95.

To see a video showing the product in more detail along with installation, visit bmwmoa.org/membertested.

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ANOTHER OPINION Alton Brown is blatant with his disparagement of single-use kitchen tools. I’m right there with him, only I disparage single-use motorcycle farkles. Things I put on my motorcycle need to do more than one thing, which is why I’m so fond of the MirrorLok. Sure, it pushes the mirrors outboard, making it so I can see more than my shoulders, but it does more. It also eliminates most of (if not all, depending on speed) the vibration that makes the mirrors tough to use in the situations when I need them most.

Finally, it allows me to secure my gear to the motorcycle in a quick, easy-access fashion.

It’s hard to beat a farkle that does three eminently useful things for one price and in one installation. I recommend MirrorLoks to anybody who wants to accomplish any of those three things!

Wes Fleming #87301

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

19

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BMW Rallye gloves

By Brian Dutcher #160860 GLOVES ARE AN INTIMATE PIECE

of riding gear where rider and bike connect, turning brain impulses into kinetic movement. In the limited space between a rider’s hand and the bike’s controls, a glove has to perform exactly as intended, nothing less and nothing more. Gloves can be one of the most challenging pieces of gear to find as it’s either a fit that you love or it’s not. There is very little room in the middle.

As for BMW’s Rallye glove, it was a definite yes from the very beginning.

In EU size 10-10.5, this glove was sized perfectly across all of my fingers, with none too short and causing pressure points or too long, causing that annoying, saggy tip. Palm girth was just the way it should be, and the abrasion resistant kangaroo leather feels like a second skin while providing protection and maintaining full context and feel.

Additionally, the flat box style stitching of the fingers allows for greater comfort with no pinching or bunching at the fingertips.

Where this glove really stands out is in the ventilation department. Utilizing a combination of goatskin leather and spandex, the top of the

BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

glove not only flexes and forms to your hand’s movements but the ram air style vents ensure that air pushes through the glove. Take any ride in the mid-50s and below, and you’ll quickly discover just how much air is pushing through these gloves and keeping your hands cool on the hottest of days.

Although these were the best fitting gloves I have ever worn, there were a few quirks to them. Although they include touch screen tips on the index finger and thumb, they are only on the right hand glove. Also, even after 2,500 miles, the index finger would never work on any touchscreen, but the thumb worked flawlessly. BMW also omitted a finger wiper to clean your visor in the rain. But, by design or not, the flat box style stitching of the fingers creates a lip that works like an old-

school leather chamois.

Protection is covered at all the critical points for contact with debris and vegetation while on the trail with memory foam tucked under the ram air knuckle protection. The goat leather short cuffs utilize large hook and loop closers. The size of these is more substantial than some other adventure gloves but not so large that it gets in the way. I foresee this larger attachment point as lasting longer than the gloves with small hook and loop strips that lose their effectiveness within a year.

The worst part of this evaluation was giving these gloves up at the end of my review. Even with the limited colors of Grey/Red or Black/Blue that only match BMW’s Rally jacket, I absolutely will be and without hesitation putting out the $99 for a pair of these.

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Hippo Hands Rogue hand covers

By Katelyn Hearon #216332 WHEN THE G 310 GS CAME TO THE

U.S. market less than a year ago, not many people took it as a legitimate touring bike. While there are bikes better suited to touring, I wanted a chance to prove to myself (and others) that my beginner bike was up to the task. After taking a weekend trip on my 310 GS from Dallas to Arkansas along with my husband on his RS, I was ready for something more ambitious—a weeklong trip to Colorado.

22

BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

As we planned the trip, the question of appropriate gear for the temperatures we’d experience became an issue. While I considered a warmer pair of gloves, after doing some research I became very interested in hand covers produced by Hippo Hands.

After my initial visit to their website, it didn’t appear they had a solution for the “baby” GS, but after reaching out to their customer service department, I found that their Rogue model would fit my bike perfectly.

The Hippo Hands Rogue model is available in three variations: all black, black with forward-facing 3M reflective tape, or black with clear forward windows for displaying integrated turn signals.

Installation

Installation of the Hippo Hands was a nobrainer! The hand covers simply slide over each hand grip and are secured with a strap and buckle. A hook and loop strap is also included but was unnecessary and was tossed into the garbage with the box.

While the Rogue model’s product page says the product “offers a large hand opening that stays open at highway speeds” and no hand guards are required, I found them necessary. With the long journey we had planned, I was concerned the Hippo Hands would rest on my controls. After installing a pair of Barkbusters handguards, I have absolutely no complaints.

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Look

Let’s be real, the point of these is not to make your bike look cool. They are a purely functional and easily stow away in a dry bag when the temperatures warm up. That’s not to say they look bad, but they definitely scream, “I am a dedicated, hard core rider!” rather than “Hey, check out my badass bike!” The forward-facing reflectivity is a fantastic feature, and we rode through a lot of rain and in low light situations which helped my visibility to oncoming traffic.

The Ride

These are fantastic for all-weather protection. We rode almost the entire first day of our trip in rain, and they held up extremely well. I believe they would have kept my hands and non- waterproof gloves drier for longer had I not forgotten to tuck my gloves into my jacket.

They also did very well at keeping my hands warm. I was wearing a pair of summer gloves on the trip and was able to use my Hippo Hands/summer gloves combination down to about 40º Fahrenheit. That may not be cold to most, but to this Texas girl it was cold enough. They kept my hands nice and warm, and I believe that when combined with a pair of warmer gloves any rider would be set until it simply became a question of safety due to road conditions.

Conclusion

The Hippo Hands product is a must have for serious weather protection. Their combination of insulation and wind protection

do far more than what a comparably priced (though often more expensive) pair of gloves can do. Not to mention that when you increase the weather and temperature protection of a pair of gloves, it often detracts from your level of feel on the controls. The Hippo Hands allow you to have temperature protection and use a pair of gloves that give you the feel you desire. All in all, I can’t say enough good about them.

As a closing note, don’t be afraid when visiting their website if you don’t see your bike listed. As I mentioned, upon my initial search of the Hippo Hands website (www. hippohands.com) I didn’t see my G 310 GS listed. But after a call to their customer service line, I was assured the Rogue model would fit beautifully.

If you are looking to extend your riding season, look no further than the Hippo Hands product—you will not be disappointed! MSRP $129.99.

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• Fitment worked very well with my G 310 GS • Kept my hands warm and protected from the wind (currently tested down to 40º F) • Easy to put on and take off of the bike • Packs well in a dry bag when not in use • Rogue model with 3M reflective tape increases conspicuity CONS:

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• Needs some form of hand guards to maintain shape while riding

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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Clearwater Lights Darla universal LED light kit

By Ron Davis #111820 America, the hardware is stainless, the wiring is professional quality, and the lights Running lights (DRLs) on just about themselves are CNC machined aluminum. every bike I’ve owned—for me, they’re Posi-Lock connectors (no more electrical as much a necessity as a helmet—but tape), waterproof, three pin due to my general thriftiness connectors from the lights to they’ve either been big box the harness, and precision store specials or cheapies machined and tapped from China. But when my mounting hardware made latest set of LED lights me think I wouldn’t need to conked out on me after one replace or upgrade this sysseason, I began looking at tem…ever. more reliable and advanced Installation on my F 700 sets. An internet search GS took most of a morning, revealed there are lots of partly because I wanted to good light systems out try different positions for the there—Denali, Cyclops, lights and partly because I’m Touratech, PIAA—but lookknown for blundering when ing at my favorite forums, I I should be pondering. Even kept coming across testimothough I had the “Universal nials for systems from ClearDarla Kit,” I really appreciwater Lights. Then, at the ated that the photos in the Des Moines rally a member instructions pictured my demonstrated a set of Clearspecific BMW model. In water Darlas that really fact, as I worked on the caught my attention. I meaninstallation, the phrase “well dered over to the Clearwater thought-out” kept popping vender booth, and I was so into my mind. impressed by the quality and The instructions were for features of the Darlas that I a fork mounts, but after trywas convinced to give them a ing the lights there, I moved try. them to my Givi crash bars, Clearwater Darlas have which gave me a little wider been around for about four triangle and a better conspiyears and sit midway in the cuity profile. Since these Clearwater lineup of light sets for motorcycles that run Adding a Clearwater Lights Darla Kit provides a wider profile and more contrast to lights aren’t cheap (about $500), I also felt the crash from the diminutive Glendi- a bike’s signature during the daytime. bar mount would protect the nas (1.7 inch diameter, 900 lights better in the event of a drop or hitting when you flick on your brights! lumens) to the almost thermonuclear some debris. The Darla light bodies themMy close inspection upon unpacking the Dixi (5.3 inch, 10,000 lumens!). What I selves are mounted with bike specific, powshipping box confirmed my initial impresliked most about the Darlas is that der-coated brackets and clamps that allow sions at the vendor booth: the fit and finish though they are small, they are adjust45 degrees of vertical adjustment. Aiming of the Darla’s places them on the top tier. able on the fly, from 100 lumens, all the the lights about five degrees below Completely built (not “developed”) in way up to 1100 lumens each, which

24

I HAVE HAD A SET OF DAYTIME

BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

means they more than fill the bill for bright DRLs. As an added bonus, Clearwater’s CANbus-friendly relay harness can be configured to trigger full 2000 lumens power

horizontal assures you won’t become one more reason for drivers to resent riders.

The instructions also call for tapping into the low beam wire behind the headlight to trip the relay, but I opted to use a Posi-Tap on the accessory outlet wire, which is just above the battery on the F7—much easier to get to. (The 2016 F 700 GS has its gas tank under the seat.) Doing it this way means the Darlas will remain on for 15 seconds after you shut the bike off, which I like, though I do get tired of people telling me “You left your lights on!” And speaking of leaving your lights on, Clearwater does not supply an on/off switch for the Darlas; they feel DRLs should be on all the time. However, as mentioned earlier, Clearwater does give you a nifty control knob that mounts off the left mirror stalk. It allows adjustment from 5 to 55 percent of full power. I am told that a quick user-activated program can allow the adjustment to extend from 5 to 100 percent of power if desired. Another wire from the relay is tapped into the headlight’s bright beam lead, which will trigger full power to the Darlas when the brights are toggled on. That wire could be also connected to the horn for a blast of light every time you beep, which sounds kind of nifty.

All strands in the wiring harness, at least for my bike, were more than long enough for mounting the lights in either position.

The Gallery pages on the Clearwater Lights website show their light kits in use on just about every BMW series, plus kits on bikes from every major marque. I’d suggest anyone who decides to invest in a set of Darlas should consider ordering a set of Darla slip-on covers ($40). The covers come with both clear and special “selective” yellow lenses, which could protect the lights from an expensive repair. I use the yellows because of the contrast they provide with my headlight.

As evidence of how far LED technology has come, the three LED Clearwater Darla Lights only draw 24 watts, two amps each at full, 2000 lumens power. Seventy-five percent of all that light stabs directly forward in a 15-degree cone, while the remainder is spread up, down and sideways at about a 45-degree angle. If by chance the Darlas get

The Darla Universal Kit from Clearwater Lights includes a unique, handlebar-mounted dimmer to regulate the lights’ brightness from 5 to 55 percent. The auxiliary lights can be boosted to full, 2,000 lumens power by toggling the bright beam switch.

Clearwater Lights can provide custom mounts for front forks or engine guards.

too hot, they automatically reduce brightness slightly. You can see how much Darlas can enhance illumination at night by checking out a video from 2016 by MOA member “Moto Mouth Moshe” on YouTube (Episode #12).

Premium construction, unique versatility, and elegant design—clearly Clearwater Lights Darlas are a choice worth

considering to enhance conspicuity, illumination and safety. For more information, visit Clearwaterlights.com, but better yet, call 916-852-7029 for expert advice on the best kit for your bike. Darlas can be purchased at the Clearwater site, at many BMW dealers and through Adventure Designs (advdesigns.com).

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

25

Explore

MOA GETAWAYS

[

Spread across the United States in bucket-list locations, MOA Getaways continue to grow in popularity.

Each venue provides a unique opportunity to ride great roads and spend time with fellow BMW riders.

From the sandy Gulf beaches of Alabama to the lush Green Mountains of Vermont, MOA Getaways all feature

[

exceptional riding opportunities at fantastic properties.

Complete registration information will be included in the January issue of BMW Owners News.

MOA Getaways — great rides and great friends. We look forward to seeing you at an MOA Getaway in 2019!

2019 Schedule Date

Location

Feb 8-9 Orange Beach , AL

Island House Hotel - Doubletree

April 26-27 Fontana Dam, NC Fontana Village Resort

May 10-11 Coeur d'Alene, ID

The Coeur d'Alene

May 10-11 Eureka Springs, AR

Best Western Inn of the Ozarks

May 17-18 Cambria, CA

Cambria Pines Lodge

July 12-13 Pocono Manor, PA

Pocono Manor Resort and Spa

Aug 23-24 Copper Mountain, CO

Copper Mountain Resort

Sept 6-7 Pine Mountain, KY

Pine Mountain State Resort Park

Sept 20-21 Jay Peak, VT

Jay Peak Resort

Sept 27-28 Cedar City, UT Pending

Oct 4-5 Tomah, WI

Cranberry Country Lodge

Oct 25 -26 Kerrville, TX Pending

26

BMW OWNERS NEWS  December 2018

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Congratulations to our Helping Hands Awardees

We’ve all had, or know someone who has had, problems while touring on their motorcycle. We also know people who have gone out of their way to help us or other MOA members, and the stories describing these acts of kindness are retold around rally campfires year after year.

The Helping Hand Award is the MOA’s way of showing our appreciation for these acts of kindness and is awarded to anyone who has gone out of his or her way to aid another MOA member. Congratulations to these recent Help Hand Award winners: Paul Glaves #13338 Ken Gotzen-Berg #18717 Nominated by Wes Fitzer #170126 Judi Trampf #160806 Katy Heyning #173108 Nominated by Sue Rihn #43753 If you have received assistance that you believe goes “above and beyond” and want to acknowledge that kindness, send your story with the name and address of your nominee(s) to Bob Aldridge, BMW MOA Executive Director at bob@bmwmoa.org.

Then, when you see someone wearing a BMW MOA Helping Hand Award pin, you’ll know you’ve found a true hero of our community!

28

BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

BMW Motorrad USA recently introduced shopbmwmotorcycles.com, new e-commerce site giving shoppers easy access to a full and up-to-date range of BMW Motorrad parts, accessories, apparel, product information, fitment, images, videos and pricing via their desktop or mobile device.

“We’re delighted to provide BMW riders with a convenient online tool to enhance their riding experience,” said Ben Radzyner, Parts and Accessories Manager for BMW Motorrad USA. “Our range of parts, accessories and gear has broadened along with our model range. This site offers buyers one central source for accessorizing and customizing their bikes, outfitting themselves in the latest Ride and Style gear, and connecting to a local dealer.”

Additional site features include an easy-to-navigate parts and accessory categories, dealer locater as well as the ability to search by part number, keyword or VIN for compatible parts.

Individual purchases are fulfilled through BMW’s network of authorized dealers.

CABDR Expedition film premier coming to a dealer near you

The adventure motorcycling non-profit known as Backcountry Discovery Routes (BDR) recently released a movie trailer for their upcoming Southern California Backcountry Discovery Route (CABDR-South) documentary film. The CABDR-South is the ninth route developed by the BDR for dual-sport and adventure motorcycle travel, and the first wintertime BDR. Free GPS tracks and travel resources are available at RideBDR.com, and a waterproof Butler Motorcycle Map, along with a feature-length expedition documentary film on DVD and videoon-demand, will be available on January 1, 2019.

The film features 4-time Baja 1000 Champion and Dakar Rally Racer Quinn Cody of KTM taking a first run on the new Southern California route.

The spectacular yet challenging 820mile ride across the south-eastern region of California starts in Yuma, Arizona, and ends in Benton, California. Primarily using rugged two-track and remote dirt roads, the route leads riders through majestic canyons, rocky riverbeds and sandy washes of California’s famous deserts and national preserves. You’ll experience quirky desert enclaves and ghost towns, visit historic mines, see ancient petroglyphs and intaglios, dip in healing mineral hot springs, and ride among the unique Joshua trees in the Mojave National preserve.

“I’ve been riding in the deserts of California all my life and was happy to discover some new dirt two-track and stunning locations on the Southern California BDR. This route showcases the best backcountry terrain, scenery and history southern California has to offer. Riders will definitely be challenged in many ways on this route, but will have the backcountry motorcycle adventure of a lifetime,” said Cody A film tour presented by MotoDiscovery is being planned in more than 40 cities across the country. Dealerships and motorcycle clubs interested in hosting the film event locally are encouraged to contact BDR by January 1 to reserve their date on the tour. For the tour schedule or to view the CABDR-South movie trailer, visit ridebdr.com.

A technical jacket with classic style

Motonation’s new Trilobite Rally jacket’s three-layer construction makes it worthy of the description “all-season.” Individual layers of Tri-Tex® membrane and a Thermolite® insulation liner can be independently connected to the jacket as needed, and the denim panels on the jacket are made of Trilobitex®, a technical denim which contains aramid fibers and a nano-membrane inside.

The Trilobite Rally jacket comes with shoulder and elbow Trilobite® Premium Protection CE Level 2 armor and is ready to accept the CE level 2 Trilobite® Premium back protector. Large vents on the sleeves and chest allow fresh air to flow in.

The Trilobite Rally jacket has nine pockets, including a large, adventure-style pocket in the back and an inside cell phone pocket. To increase visibility on the road, the Rally jacket has a reflective Trilobite logo on the back, with the collar and sleeve rims trimmed in leather to give the jacket a stylish look.

The Trilobite jacket retails for $319, and for more information, visit motonation.com.

MOA members help Motorcycle Relief Project

Thanks to MOA members attending Weekend Getaways last year, MOA Board Secretary Deb Lower recently presented Tom Larson of the Motorcycle Relief Project a check for $10,588!

According to Larson, the donation will be used to fund a DMC sidecar for physically disabled veterans, fund the food costs on eight of their 2018 Relief Rides, lodging on three 2018 Relief rides, and the cost of three veterans going through the program this year.

The donations were raised during silent auctions at MOA Getaway events with products donated by MOA partner companies Cardo Scala Rider, Adaptive Technology, Stop & Go Tire Pluggers, MotoManufacturing and S100 Products.

Military discounts

Through March 31, 2019, Kentucky State Parks is offering a discount to all Active Duty, Reservists, National Guard, Veterans and Retired Military personnel for lodge and cottage accommodations at 11 of their resort parks.

To take advantage of this offer, visit parks.ky.gov and use promo code USA when making your reservation online.

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

29

news

news

AIMExpo Wrap-Up

By Wes Fleming #87301 TWO YEARS AGO, THE MOTORCY-

cle Industry Council’s trade show, called the American International Motorcycle Exposition (AIMExpo) was in Orlando, Florida. Last year it moved to Columbus, Ohio. The rationale was that more powersports and motorcycle dealers were within 500 miles of central Ohio than within the same distance from central Florida.

The move to Las Vegas, Nevada, for 2018 was meant to draw more west coast dealers, who have said since the

show’s inception in 2013 it was too far to travel and had too low a return on investment to make it worth their while to attend.

The jury is still out on whether the Las Vegas show attracted the number of west coast dealers the MIC hoped for, but overall it was another successful, well-organized trade show attended by manufacturers, service providers, dealers and consumers from all over the world.

The show floor in Mandalay Bay’s Convention Center South is massive, hundreds of thousands of square feet, and the aisles were nice and wide to accommodate the 20,000-plus people expected by expo organizers. Though it was obvious there were Indian's new FTR 1200 S (below) was the talk of the show this year. It features a state-of-the-art touchscreen dash (inset, left) and Bluetooth connectivity to the rider's smartphone.

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

thousands of people on the show floor, it never felt too crowded and moving from booth to booth was easy. The facilities in Vegas were top notch, and both Mandalay Bay and AIMExpo employees made getting to, through and out of the show a smooth process. The logistics required to put on such a large event are immense, but you wouldn’t know it from how easy they made everything look.

Most of the major motorcycle manufacturers were there, but several had noticeably small presences or decided to skip the show entirely. BMW Motorrad was the biggest obvious absence from my perspective; not only did BMW not have a booth or any

The Vozz motorcycle helmet, only recently being imported into the USA by Pacific Powersports, represents an ambitious attempt to redefine the concept of how a helmet stays in place.

organized presence on the show floor, they didn’t bring the fabled demo truck, either.

Indian, Harley-Davidson, Kawasaki and Honda dominated the outdoor pavilion, with notable demo rides from SSR, a Chinese manufacturer, and autocycle maker Vanderhall.

Indoors, Triumph had a small, sparsely populated booth dominated by some monster version of a truck. The Big Four— Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha—all had giant booths, with Honda’s being the largest on the show floor. All were well stocked with motorcycles and employees, allowing anybody who wanted to know more to look, sit, touch, twist, talk and learn about everything new. Indian and HarleyDavidson had more modest booths, but still had a good spread of motorcycles on display.

When it came to new motorcycles for 2019, there weren’t any surprises. Most manufacturers had debuted new models at Intermot, in Cologne, Germany, in the two weeks preceding AIMExpo. Still, many attendees flocked to Kawasaki to see the new ZX-6R Ninja, a technology-packed sport bike with a new 636cc engine that is sure to pump adrenaline through the veins of all who throw a leg over it. Many of the mainstream manufacturers, including Kawasaki, are catching up to BMW with

their motorcycle technology, adding things like quick shifters, TFT dash displays and lean-capable ABS to their motorcycles. In many cases, they are doing so at price points well below high-end BMWs, but only time will tell if the performance of these modules measures up to the quality expected by BMW riders.

Over in Yamaha’s booth, the buzz was all about the 2019 YZF-R3, an entry-level sport bike that looks every bit like something you’d see on a race track on a Sunday afternoon. Yamaha has introduced a number of technological updates to this 321cc platform, taking not just tech but also styling cues from their popular R1 superbike and filtering them down effectively to a bike anyone can buy for about $5,000.

The excitement over these two sleek sport bikes and Honda’s Super Cub returning to the market aside, most people who got excited about a new motorcycle— myself included—were excited to see Indian’s newest offering, the FTR 1200. This is an all-new liquid-cooled 1200cc V-twin motorcycle with design inspired by the company’s FTR 750 flat-track race bike.

Indian cannily released info and videos about this bike about 10 days before AIMExpo, so by the time everybody got to the show, the hype was everywhere. I got shooed away from the first one out of the

crate on setup day, but not before I got some photos. It’s no secret that I am totally enamored by this motorcycle, to the point where I have even put down a deposit on one at my favorite Indian dealer (who also happens to be a BMW dealer).

Beyond these new motorcycles and a few select others, it was largely like any other trade show. Exhibitors showed off new and improved products, such as Helite’s Turtle 2 airbag vest, a video of which can be found on the MOA’s YouTube channel. The most exciting new product I came across was the helmet made by Vozz in Australia, currently being imported into the U.S. by Pacific Powersports. If you haven’t seen one of these, you owe it to yourself to check them out. Helmet technology doesn’t advance far or quickly from year to year, but the folks at Vozz have hit upon an innovation that is sure to garner a ton of attention.

There was a lot of fun to be had at the MotoCulture exhibit, where Roland Sands Design, the Gooniez Grom Squad, Vespa Club of America, American Flat Track, Bell Helmets and BMW MOA joined a coffee bar, regular bar, local tattoo artists and more in showing off multiple aspects of motorcycling culture. Enough people strolled through this area that I hope AIMExpo continues dedicating space to this concept in the future.

AIMExpo returns to the Greater Columbus Convention Center in Ohio for 2019. Show dates are Thursday through Sunday, September 26-29, 2019. As usual, Thursday and Friday are for media, dealers and other industry professionals only. Saturday and Sunday are open to the public; arrive early if you want to get a demo ride from any of the available manufacturers, as those lists fill up quickly.

Discount tickets for consumer days will be available through a number of outlets, so stay tuned to the MOA website (bmwmoa.org) next summer for more info. You can learn more about the AIMExpo at their website, aimexpousa.com. You can listen to a discussion with Larry Little, one of the key organizers of AIMExpo, on Episode 34 of Chasing the Horizon, a podcast by, for and about motorcyclists. You can find that episode on the web at horizon.bmwmoa.org, along with Episode 36, a thorough discussion of this year’s AIMExpo featuring MOA members Scott Correy and Liz Howe.

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

31

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The excitement of winning

By Margaret Varlamos IT’S BEEN SHEER EXCITEMENT

from the moment Ted Moyer called last July to when we parked the new BMW R 1200 GS Adventure in a friend’s garage until our next trip. A “Wow!” is warranted again, as it is still hard to believe.

It all began when I saw the ad for the 2018 Superstakes raffle in an email from the BMW MOA Foundation. I also noticed that a BMW motorcycle t-shirt was being given away with the purchase of each $100 raffle ticket.

In our home, there is a long, sad story from 1978 about a boy who lost

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

his BMW motorcycle while on his way to Alaska. The boy arrived in Anchorage with nothing other than the clothes on his back and $25 in his pocket. Sadly, his motorcycle was not insured, and when it went over the edge to be claimed by the Canadian wilderness, it was simply gone forever. I know the story well and still feel for my husband when I hear it. I thought the bike he lost was an R 90 so I decided to buy Don, a Lifetime MOA Member since 1987, a $100 t-shirt in memory of his lost bike. (Turns out the bike was actually an R 75/5 - whoops!)

As I perused the other t-shirts, I decided to buy myself a $100 t-shirt with an iconic

K bike on it since I own a 1987 K 75. I filled out the raffle tickets, one in each of our names, ordered the t-shirts and sent them in to await the arrival of our cool shirts.

Then, many weeks later I was standing in the kitchen when the phone rang. Fearing it was either a pollster, a political call or a scam, I answered in my usual “you are interrupting my dinner” voice. The caller identified himself as Ted Moyer from the BMW MOA Foundation and asked for Don. I told Ted that Don wasn’t home and asked if there was anything I could do for him. Before Ted could say anything else, I asked him where my t-shirts were.

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Ted chuckled and said, “We will get you your shirts, but I called to tell Don he won a new BMW motorcycle!” I didn’t believe him and told him so. I asked who was really on the line, thinking it was one of our friends playing a joke on us.

Ted ultimately convinced me that he was legitimately from the MOA and that, indeed, Don’s ticket had been the first one drawn at the MOA Rally in Des Moines and he had won a 2018 BMW R 1200 GS Adventure. I couldn’t believe it and had I not just ridden halfway across the country on the back of it, I probably still wouldn’t believe it!

We live in Anchorage, Alaska, and during the summer months we operate two food businesses in Whittier, on Prince William Sound, and both businesses keep us from motorcycle riding since our riding season here in Alaska coincides with our seasonal businesses.

We’ve talked for years about what we would like to do when we retire, and our answer was always to ride motorcycles, enjoy music and visit friends around the country. Upon winning this raffle, we decided that we should pick up the bike in Chattanooga, Tennessee, at Pandora’s European Motorsports and ride it after we closed for the season. Because it was going to be too late in the season to safely drive the bike all the way to Anchorage without encountering snow, we asked friends in Bend, Oregon, if we could store it in their garage until spring.

The trip from Chattanooga to Bend started by heading north to Louisville, Kentucky, through a thunder and lightning storm south of Nashville. Due to a severe weather pattern moving into the area, we decided to cut our stay with friends in Louisville short and head west toward St. Louis.

Then we continued west to Kansas City, Missouri, where we turned north to Omaha, Nebraska, to spend a couple of

days catching up with friends and family.

Then we set out from Omaha on a chilly morning that just got colder and colder until it was below 40 degrees just outside Cheyenne, Wyoming, and it started raining.

The next morning it was a beautiful 70 degrees, and we cruised across Wyoming, enjoying seeing hundreds of pronghorn antelope along the way. Dropping down into Utah, we were amazed at the red rock canyons and beautiful hills. We spent the night just north of Ogden, Utah, and set off the next morning for Boise, Idaho, and one more night on the road before we hit our final destination in Bend. Like the preretirement trip, it was meant to be; we listened to a jazz band at our hotel that night in Boise and relaxed, knowing we were doing what we loved and that this trip was proving to be a testament to our retirement dream.

We arrived at our friend’s place happy and content with only one regret: the trip was at its end. We washed the bike and put her to sleep in their garage, watched over by the trusty battery tender and sleek new custom-made cover.

Next time we ride, I will be on my K 75, and he will be on the new R 1200 GS Adventure, but I will never forget the feeling of riding on that bike and how it made me feel, free and alive. We now know that our retirement plan is a good one, and we have every intention of sticking to it. Had it not been for winning this bike, we may have discarded it, feeling too old and out of practice.

Thank you to the BMW MOA and the entire staff. Thank you to Pandora’s European Motorsports and all the great guys and gals that work there. Most of all, thank you to God who saw fit to give us this great gift that has allowed us to dream and to live that dream.

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

35

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How to nominate someone to be a BMW MOA Ambassador?

By Jason Olson #59163, Ambassador Liaison THE BMW MOA HAS A GROUP OF

individuals in the organization that have been recognized for their ongoing contributions to the club. They’re not nominated by the club, but by their fellow members—namely, people like yourself. Those people become BMW MOA Ambassadors.

If you’ve spotted “That Person” in your midst—that person who always puts his or her hand up to volunteer or help, represents the BMW MOA well, and has provided direct service to the BMW MOA—you can easily nominate them.

Start by rounding up a copy of the nomination form. This document is available at our club website, bmwmoa.org, or you can always me at

bmwjiggs@gmail, and I will send you the form. After you’ve filled it out completely, return it to me, and I will forward the nomination to the BMW MOA Board of Directors. If I need clarification, I may reach out to you prior to passing the nomination along.

The Board of Directors will approve or deny as appropriate, and the new Ambassador will be notified directly. Remember, the Board’s test is to assess the commitment the candidate has shown to the club based on the contributions they have made. The more detail you can provide, the better the nomination. We want the Board to have as complete a picture as possible of why this individual was nominated. Don’t forget to include a picture as many on the board know lots of people but don’t always remember their names.

Of course, there’s some degree of secrecy surrounding an application and if the candidate isn’t selected, this will prevent hurt feelings and disappointment. Also, one cannot apply for this position on one’s own.

Becoming an Ambassador is an honor that is bestowed by our fellow members. The board will treat all nominations with utter confidence, holding their discussion and voting during the board’s closed sessions, with public announcements at the open session of the board meeting.

Do you know "That Person?" If so, consider nominating him or her for Ambassadorship and recognition for the things they’ve done for all of us.

Email me at bmwjiggs@gmail.com if you have questions or need a hand.

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BMW MOA 2019 Election – Call for Candidates

By Deb Lower #9927 BMW MOA Secretary THE BMW MOA SECRETARY IS

responsible for submitting a notice of the upcoming annual election for publication in the December BMW Owners News and request the information to be placed on the MOA website. The notice must contain an explanation of the election and nomination process, eligibility requirements to be a member of the Board of Directors, the election timetable and the names and mailing addresses of the members of the Candidate Search Committee appointed by the President.

For the 2019 BMW MOA Election, there are three Director positions open. If you have an interest in running for one of these three positions, you are strongly encouraged to do so to support your MOA. Annual meeting obligations include three in-person board meetings with one held at the BMW MOA International Rally and the others scheduled in the Spring and Fall on a Friday and Saturday with Thursday and Sunday scheduled as travel days. Additional meeting requirements include an annual, in-person board retreat as well as 12 full board conference calls and two committee calls per month.

The monthly calls occur in the evening and are usually completed within one hour.

Board officers are elected by the Directors at the first executive session board meeting following the election, which in 2019 is the June meeting at the Annual International Rally in Lebanon, Tennessee.

Board meetings generally begin with members arriving on Thursday (if there are Friday meetings

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

scheduled) or on Friday in time for committee meetings. Board meetings generally conclude Saturday night to accommodate Sunday travel. Compensation for board members includes travel, lodging and meals in accordance with the current BMW MOA policy and procedures manual.

If you are interested in putting your name in as a candidate for one of the three

2019

BMW MOA

ELECTION positions available on the BMW MOA Board, I ask that you inform the BMW MOA office. This is not a requirement to be eligible, but the nomination packets will be sent from the BMW MOA office. The nomination packet includes the following: A Nomination Petition is used to obtain at least five other individual members’ names, including their MOA numbers, addresses and signatures supporting the nomination. Obtaining the five signatures is a requirement, but they do not have to be presented on the nomination petition example in the packet. The Candidate Search Committee must receive a biography/position statement of no more than 500 words in length. The words will be counted by the Committee, and they will cut off the election materials after the

500th word of any biography/position statement exceeding this length. A photograph is not required, but it is highly recommended. The photo can be sent to the Candidate Search Committee in a separate mailing. However, all required election documents must be received by the Candidate Search Committee no later than February 1, 2019 to have the member’s name appear on the ballot as a candidate. February 1, 2019, is also the last day to withdraw candidacy, change candidacy or review the biography/position statement.

Information on who has submitted a Nomination Petition is available from the Candidate Search Committee. However, no person shall read or listen to the biography or position statement of any other candidate without such candidate’s prior permission. Members of the Candidate Search Committee who are also candidates may read such biographies and position statements prior to the submittal to the Secretary provided they have previously submitted their biographies and position statements and do not later alter them.

The required forms can be submitted to any member of the Candidate Search Committee, but they must be received no later than February 1, 2019. The members of the Candidate Search Committee are: Don Hamblin, Chair 1204 SE 11th Street Lee’s Summit, MO 64081 256-479-5606 bmwscooter@gmail.com Muriel Farrington 166 Iris Way White River Junction, VT 05901 802-299-0015 mmfarrington1@juno.com

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Members of the committee have served on boards or worked closely with the BMW MOA Board of Directors and will be able to address candidate’s questions about serving on the board.

The April issue of the BMW Owners News will contain the election materials, including each candidate’s biography and position statement, optional photograph and the election ballot. The last day to submit ballots is April 30 of each election year.

The election committee will not count ballots received on or after May 11, 2019, even if the postmark is April 30, 2019.

A special section (sub-forum) in the “Clubhouse” is made available for candidates to use for campaigning, discussing the issues and answering questions from the membership. The Election Forum will go live on April 1 and shall be removed on April 30 of each election year. The end date coincides with the last day to submit a ballot. The election forum will not be archived, and participation by candidates in this forum is optional.

The Election Committee is nominated by the President and will be announced after the January Board Meeting. The Election Committee will certify the results of the BMW MOA 2019 Election and report the results to the President and Secretary, who will notify all candidates. The Secretary will cause the election results to be printed in the Owners News no later than the June 2019 issue. Successful candidates will be seated at the Board of Directors Meeting to be held at the 2019 BMW MOA International Rally in Lebanon, Tennessee.

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www.beemershop.com December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

39

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keepemflying

Crossing Europe

By Matthew Parkhouse #13272 SUSANNA AND I

are now a month into our six-week ride through Europe. We have deviated from our original plan of spending a week in Greece, enjoying being warm, dry and in an inexpensive country. We are boarding a ferry from Albania to Ancona, Italy to save some time.

We lost a week of travel because of a breakdown in Croatia when the left-hand CV carburetor float bowl got kicked off as we were searching for our hotel in Dubrovnik. I never found it, despite our backtracking. After my bodging of a replacement from a piece of a plastic bottle was not a resounding success, I went online and ordered a replacement bowl from MotoBins in England. It cost more to ship it from Surfleet, England, to Dubrovnik, Croatia, than to actually purchase the part. Counting the weekend, it took six days for the part to find its way to our campground in Dubrovnik, via FedEx. As we waited, we rented a cabin at the Campground Solitudo which cost about the same as pitching a tent would have.

To make matters worse, I left Susanna’s R 60/5 key on all night which left her with a flat battery the next day. My efforts to revive her battery by hooking it up to my bike resulted in two bikes with very low batteries! I ended up finding a holein-the-wall repair shop, about a

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

half-kilometer from our campground and left my bike with her battery to be charged overnight. That fixed the battery problem.

To do this, I used the map function of my iPad to find the Nija shop.

We found, that, unlike our four-month Europe/North Africa trip in 2006, we were frequently using online resources to locate routes on maps, find hotels, and locate tourist attractions as we moved around. Despite the delay and being broke down in Dubrovnik, the trip so far has been a definite success.

We have also experienced a lot of kindness of strangers as we made our way into the Balkan states. A young woman on a scooter, for example, helped guide us to our back-alley hotel in Dubrovnik. In Podgorica, Montenegro, the nephew of the hotel owner drove me to a hardware store where he could get 50 percent off anything purchased there. I ended up with a battery charger for €25.00 that should have cost €49.00! I’m planning on stripping the components out of the metal case to have a more compact unit to carry with us as there have been many occasions over the years

and miles where having a charger might have saved my, or someone else’s, day.

We have ridden on some fantastic roads, through more tunnels than I care to think about, and eaten many great meals. We are moving at a slow pace, the record was a 35-mile day to get to the ferry terminal at Durrës, Albania. As we set things up with a travel agent in town, she recommended we stay at the Palace Hotel, at the beach. I’m sure she had some sort of connection with them, but it really is a beautiful place. A bit of Las Vegas, with more than a few Bulgarian gangster-types and Ivanka/ Melania women wandering about, all for €62 a night.

About every fifth automobile we see is a newish Mercedes. I’d be interested in seeing just how the local economy works here.

The various wars that erupted as the Yugoslavia nation fell apart are still evident in the Balkans. I remember being recruited as I did my year of Public Health Nursing studies in London in 1992 to help out one side or the other in those conflicts. I said “no” and planned my post-graduate ride to Istanbul in 1993 to avoid this area. That was 25 years and two trips across Europe ago.

Albania seems to have more gas stations than any of the nearby countries, and it seems like there’s one every two or three blocks. Petrol has not been a problem to find anywhere, once one adjusts to $6 to $8 a gallon gas! API SG motorcycle oil is easy to come by as well. The whole area is popular with cross-country bikers; we regularly saw groups of five or six to 20 riders pass us as we rode along in the right-hand lane.

We might as well be on Mars as far as understanding words and signage. The Balkan languages use a different alphabet and

exotic wording, very hard for us gringos to even pronounce! The trip so far has been relaxing and overwhelming, as we slowly turn around to head back to Heidelberg.

There have been a few places that suffer from over-touristing because of the impact of cruise ships and mass group tours. Places like Amsterdam and Venice are starting to realize how fragile their cities really are and are taking measures to lessen the impact.

The Old Town part of Dubrovnik, rebuilt after being shelled in 1992, is one such location that now rations docking times for cruise ships to avoid creating mobs of tourists that lessen the experience for everyone.

That is one of the nicest parts of touring on the old BMWs, the ability to avoid being part of these mobs.

As I write this, I’m sitting in front of our hotel, on the Adriatic beach with a very small number of guests. It is mid-October, after all.

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December 2018  BMW OWNERS NEWS

41

TEC

TorqueoftheMatter

Ohhhhmmmm … Ohhhhmmmm Part 3:

A brief history and explanation of CAN bus)

By Wes Fleming #87301 IT

USED TO

BE

that electrical systems on motorcycles were easy to understand and trace.

Wiring went from the light bulb to a fuse to (eventually) the battery. If the bulb blew, you replaced it. If the fuse popped, you replaced it. Maybe there was a relay in between; you could replace that, too, and most of the time one of those three things would result in your light working again.

Not so much anymore. Starting in 2004, BMW switched its motorcycles

from the old way to a new way: CAN bus.

CAN stands for Controller Area Network; “bus” in this context is a little more difficult to describe. In a strict electrical sense, bus would be short for busbar, a common ground point for a number of circuits. From a computing standpoint—which makes more sense when it comes to the modern electrical systems of motorcycles—it would be short for omnibus, a Latin word meaning “for all.” From that perspective, it’s more accurate, because in a computer bus, signals can be transmitted in parallel or in serial, which I’ll explain right now.

Consider three connection points in a circuit. One point (A) supplies power, the other two (B, C) need power. If wires

connect A to B and A to C, that is a parallel circuit, since if B stops functioning, C will continue to function. In a serial circuit, A connects to B and B connects to C; if B stops functioning, C won’t work either.

Think of a string of Christmas tree lights. If one bad bulb takes out the whole string, that’s a serial circuit. If the lights continue to twinkle even when one is out, that’s a parallel circuit. Both types of circuits have their strengths and weaknesses, and thus are more appropriate for this system or that system based on the electrical needs of the motorcycle.

Probably the most apt path to quickly understanding CAN bus is comparing the system to the human body. If your brain

The wiring harness of a motorcycle – such as this one from an R 1150 RTP – can be considered the spinal column of the electrical system. The connectors hook up to various components and transmit power and data as needed to everything on the motorcycle.

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

2010 S 1000 RR Control Units Battery – +

Ignition lock

Main relay

Instrument Cluster

BMS-KP

WL

Dynamic Traction Control

Race ABS

Theft Alarm SystemWL

CAN-high CAN-low

Diagnostic Port This is a simplified illustration of some the ECUs on a 2010 S 1000 RR. A number of things are left out, such as fuses, relays, resistors, connectors and other things in the circuit. The purpose here isn’t to give a comprehensive look at the wiring of an RR, but rather to show the interconnectedness of the CAN bus system and how all the ECUs communicate with each other.

had to have a nerve connecting it directly to every possible pain point (full parallel circuitry), your body would be overloaded with nerve fibers. Instead, nerves spread out through your body like the tributaries of a river and connect to your spinal column (think of it as the main run of a wiring harness), which keeps the number of wires needed to a minimum, yet still allows all the information to pass both directions. If it were an electronic system, we would classify the human body’s nervous system as a serial-parallel circuit, with aspects of both types of systems.

Thinking of CAN bus as a nervous system for your motorcycle works as well, except for one thing: your body has only one brain, while your motorcycle has a number of them. The electronic control units (ECU) on your bike include the main computer, called a zentral fahrgestelle elektronik (ZFE – central chassis electronics), a traction control, an inertia unit for the ABS on really advanced bikes, the ABS unit

itself, hill hold, quick shifter, wheelie mitigation, and even the motor that adjusts the windshield. The CAN bus system allows all these controllers to communicate digitally with each other without overloading any one of them, improving signal reliability and creating a robust, centralized system to control all the electronic aspects of the motorcycle.

To understand more how CAN bus works, let’s break down a packet of CAN bus data. Each packet is eight bytes in size, and one byte contains eight bits. CAN bus packets have eight components, as follows: • SOF: 1 bit, Start of Frame; “Hey, pay attention, information follows!”

• CAN-ID: 11 bits in CAN 2.0A, 29 in 2.0B, Extended Identifier; lets all systems know where the data is coming from, whether it be a wheel speed sensor, an inertia device, or the ABS unit • RTR: 1 bit, Remote Transmission Request; enables ECUs to request data from other

ECUs in the system • Control: 6 bits; tells the system how long the message is • Data: the actual message can be anywhere from 0 to 64 bits in length • CRC: 16 bits, Cyclic Redundancy Check; ensures the data is transmitted properly • ACK: 2 bits, Acknowledgement; checks the CRC • EOF: 7 bits, End of Frame; “Okay, I’m all done now!”

Under normal operation, the ECUs don’t store much in the way of data; they usually only create a record to store when something goes wrong or transmit data in real time. Data loggers and diagnostic tools can retrieve these data points, which we often experience in the form of fault codes. Your BMW Motorrad dealership has computers that can read this data, and you can read it for yourself with a tool called a GS-911, made by a company called HEX Code out of South Africa. Technicians can use that

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

43

TECH

torqueofthematter

real-time data to fine-tune a race bike; similarly, if your bike is having a problem, a tech can not only read fault codes but observe real-time data to develop an understanding of what’s gone wrong with the bike.

Getting into how the bits and bytes coming out of the CAN bus get decoded is better explained by an engineer, so you’ll have to take it on faith that it does what I say it does.

One of the notable things about CAN bus is it can send signals constantly or intermittently, with intermittent signals being sent based on time triggers or event triggers. This is what makes throttle-by-wire possible, and thus both digital cruise control and on-the-fly remapping of ignition and fuel injection based on selecting a ride mode. The technology needed to time-trigger CAN bus changes didn’t come about until after 1999, and it took a few years to perfect the protocols and get the hardware down to a size suitable for motorcycles. That’s why you don’t see throttle-by-wire until the S 1000 RR debuted, even though the RR had a hybrid throttle (throttle cable to rheostat, rheostat to computer; call it partial throttle-by-wire to facilitate the riding modes).

The kicker is that as far as motorcycles go, there is no single standard CAN bus protocol that all manufacturers have to follow. Cars and trucks have a standard, which is why you can use an OBD-II reader on any modern vehicle, but motorcycle

manufacturers have so far been left to their own devices. That is in the process of changing, and more motorcycle makers are anticipating the day when all bikes have to have OBD-style connectors and their ECUs will need to speak a common dialect of hexadecimal code. When a standard comes, it will most likely be driven by legislation from the European Union; certainly for BMW motorcycles, the EU drives many changes, which is why bike makers have to keep updating their engines to adhere to emissions standards.

BMW and some other European car makers came up with LIN (local interconnect network) bus just before the turn of the century as a way to make CAN bus integration less expensive. Seems all those sensors, connectors and computers were raising the cost of the vehicles too high, too quickly. LIN bus is a type of CAN bus, but with a slightly different protocol often referred to as “slave-master;” this is expressed in vehicles with a broadcast serial network of one master and up to 15 slave nodes. What we refer to as CAN bus on many (but not all) BMW motorcycles is actually LIN bus, but the underlying concepts are largely the same, so while there are differences and the terms are not completely interchangeable, it’s not the biggest thing we get wrong when discussing our bikes.

CAN bus isn’t the end of the road, mainly because it has some inherent limitations.

First and foremost, data can only flow through CAN bus at one megabit per second (1Mbps). The data packet size of just eight bytes also restricts the utility of CAN bus. The next technology in the queue is

being called CAN FD, where FD stands for flexible data-rate. CAN FD features 64-byte packets and a max speed of 8 Mbps, vastly increasing not just the amount of data that can be transmitted, but the speed at which it flows. CAN FD is much closer to being actual real-time data transmission than CAN bus. The weakness as far as motorcycles are concerned is that CAN FD is intolerant of current leakage, which means motorcycle electrical systems will have to leap forward in reliability and robustness before CAN FD can make its way onto two wheels. Even though academics are still arguing about some of the subtleties of CAN FD, car makers are already on the job, working with semiconductor designers to bring CAN FD closer to real-world usefulness.

With the rise of cloud computing, the growth of the Internet of Things and steady improvement in Wi-Fi CAN bus analyzers and data loggers, it is conceivable that in the near future, our motorcycles will be fully and fearlessly connected to each other and the Mother Ship in every way. Picture a day when BMW Motorrad can send firmware updates to your K 2200 GT directly from Munich. Inter-operability between motorcycles and other road-going vehicles is another probability, with vehicles of all types emitting enough electrical signals to attract the attention of nearby aliens in their flying saucers along with the autonomous vehicles all around them on the world’s highways. Once scientists defeat the one megabit per second data transmission rate of CAN bus, who knows what the next step will be in motorcycle evolution?

Things connected to the BMS-KP in an S 1000 RR Ignition switch Ignition ring antenna Start/stop/mode button ABS-DTC button Clutch switch Throttle grip position sensor Brake switch Crash sensor Gear position sensor Sidestand switch

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

Battery Main relay Starter relay Radiator fan relay Fuel pump Diagnostic port ABS control unit DTC control unit Instrument cluster Crankshaft sensor

Camshaft sensor Throttle flap sensor Engine temperature sensor Air temperature sensor Fuel pressure sensor Oxygen sensor 1 & 2 Knock sensor Shift assist mechanism Speed sensor Fuel injection valves (pre &

main) Throttle actuator Intake actuator Interference flap actuator Exhaust flap actuator SAS valve Fuel vent/purge valve

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December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

45

THE

ULTIMATE

HOLIDAY

GIFT GUIDE

Don't be dim, add Weiser lighting Light up the road and be seen this year by adding high-intensity LED driving, brake and turn signal lighting for your motorcycle. For more information, visit weisertechnik.com.

Protect your R nineT The MudSling™ R nineT rear suspension guard from MachineartMoto works with all R nineT models to protect the rear open suspension area from stone chip damage and mud accumulation. MudSling™ looks slender and integrates well with the minimal styling of the R nineT and fits with OEM and aftermarket shocks such as Ohlins, Wilbers and others.

MSRP for the MudSling™ is $129, and for more information, visit machineartmoto.com.

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

Motoplug Powered Phone Holder Rocky Creek Designs has developed a full range of MotoPlugs, one of them being a powered phone holder which clamps to your handlebars where, it holds and charges your phone while you’re riding.

Use your phone as a GPS while remaining fully charged. MSRP $37.46. For more information, visit rockycreekdesigns.com.

AeroWings for the 2017+ K 1600 models AeroWings direct airflow away from hands, arms, shoulders and sides of helmet, reducing turbulence and buffeting for both driver and passenger. Blending perfectly with the bike’s sleek, aerodynamic lines, the AeroWings deliver comfort with style.

For more information, visit aeroflowscreens.com.

Accessories for the welltraveled motorcyclist Slip these polar fleece tubes on your wrists to help keep the chill out! Worn under your gloves and jacket to keep the wind from creeping down your sleeve, they are also great when worn alone while hanging out at the campfire or pumping gas. Visit dwapickle.com for more information.

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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THE ULTIMATE HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

Medjet Membership An annual Medjet membership is a great holiday gift for any rider. Add the Motorcycle Protection Program for $35 per bike, and you have the ultimate gift. MedjetHorizon is also an option, adding travel security and crisis response protection. Plans begin at $225. For more information, visit Medjet.com/bmwmoa or call 800.527.7478 to enroll or purchase as a gift. When calling, mention BMW MOA for special pricing.

Bing Agency Merry Christmas from Bing Agency International. Give your favorite rider a gift certificate for an in-shop full rebuild or an instructional DVD. For more information, visit bingcarburetor.com.

Performance Compression Socks Relief from the Sun Ever wonder why helmets with internal drop-down visors are not Snell approved?

The Helmet Sunblocker fits the bill nicely and offers UV protection, which most tinted visors do not. Some riders use it in conjunction with their drop-down visor for even more glare protection. Placed just above your line of sight, it’s always there when you need it. For more information, visit helmetsunblocker.com.

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

The new Moto-Skiveez Motorcycle Performance Compression Sock uses a proprietary fabric construction to provide targeted arch and ankle stabilization while reducing muscle fatigue. Also providing graduated compression, the socks help prevent achy swollen ankles, feet, and legs while riding. For more information, visit motoskiveez.com.

Redverz Hawk II Mountaineering tent The Hawk II Mountaineering tent from Redverz is a lightweight, four-season, and freestanding tent that comfortably sleeps two. At only six pounds, the clever tent design is spacious yet easily fits in your pannier.

MOA members can take $50 off their purchases through December 15, 2018. To receive the discount, simply use the code MOAHawk50 at checkout. Visit redverz. com for more information.

Guardo Adventure Gloves by Touratech The Touratech Guardo Adventure Glove utilizes Sharktec® nano-technology to offer riders a highly functional, breathable, protective and comfortable glove that you’ll want to use for every trip on your adventure motorcycle, no matter the distance. It’s also vibration dampened, cut resistant, fire resistant, and provides the ultimate grip, even when wet or oily.

This glove offers the ultimate in comfort, durability, and safety in a light-weight, intelligent design. MSRP $199.99. For more information, visit touratech-usa.com.

MOA Icons Series T-shirts Need a last-minute stocking stuffer for the vintage motorcycle lover on your Christmas list? The MOA Foundation Icon Series t-shirts feature classic BMW motorcycles including the 1923 R 32, 1934 R 12, 1972 R 90 S, 1976 R 100 RS and the 1984 R 100 GS. The shirts are high quality, 100 percent pre-shrunk cotton and are available online for $20 plus shipping. Proceeds from the sale of every shirt benefit the BMW MOA Foundation for rider safety, education and training. Purchase your Icons Series shirts online at gear.bmwmoa.org.

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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THE ULTIMATE HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

Parabellum Sport-Touring Windshield Built for the BMW G 310 GS, the Parabellum ST Shield is mounted more upright, similar to the Dakar Rally bikes. It is 17 inches wide at the bottom and tapers to 13 inches at the top. The Parabellum ST Shield is available in heights of 16, 18 and 20 inches in both clear and tinted version. For more information, visit parabellum.com.

SW-MOTECH Legend Gear tool bag available at Twisted Throttle The SW-MOTECH Legend Gear tool bag does more than stock your spanners. A sleek combination of durable synthetic leather and waxed canvas, the 1.6-liter LA5 tool bag has an internal zippered pocket and a Velcro/buckle closure. Loops and straps offer multiple mounting options for your bike, belt, backpack and more. The SWMOTECH Legend Gear tool bag has an MSRP of $111.95. For more information, visit twistedthrottle.com.

The Voyager 4 jacket from Spidi Spidi’s Voyager 4 jacket is a three-layer touring jacket equipped with Step-InClothing technology and EN1621-1 certified Forcetech protectors on shoulders and elbows. The H2Out waterproof membrane and the thermal liner can be used separately to give the rider maximum freedom of use. For more information, visit spidi.com.

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BMW OWNERS NEWS  December 2018

Illium Works Versatile Highway Pegs The unique ball joint design used by Ilium Works on their Versatile Highway Pegs offers a variety of compound angle mounting possibilities and can be configured to fold rearward or upward. Once positioned, the ball joint is then rigidly locked into position. These pegs are CNC machined from 6061 aluminum alloy, anodized and assembled using stainless steel hardware and will fit both 22.5 mm and 25 mm bars. MSRP $315. For more information, visit iliumworks.com.

S100® Cycle Care Gift Set Give that special person the gift of a well-cared for bike with the S100® Cycle Care Gift Set! The Gift set includes five of S100’s best selling products, including S100 Total Cycle Cleaner, S100 Detail+Wax, S100 Finish Restorer and S100 Corrosion Protectant, everything to make a valuable bike last longer and look better.

There’s even the S100 Drying Towel for that surprise rain shower. Find this terrific set at your local dealer or visit s100.com.

The Dixi from Clearwater Lights Dixi is a new light from Clearwater Lights and uses ten high power Cree LEDs while offering two different beam patterns. Three LEDs in the center provide a driving beam, while the surrounding seven LEDs create a pin spotlight.

In the normal configuration, the intensity of the center optic is adjustable when the low beam headlight is on and goes to full power when the high beam headlight is on.

At full power, a pair of Clearwater Dixis produce more than 20,000 lumens! Visit www. clearwaterlights.com for more information.

Be seen with AdMore Lighting AdMore Lighting’s high-powered, CanBus-compatible LED Light Bar provides riders with a modulating brake light, progressive, amber turn signals and Smart Brake technology. The programmable AdMore Light Bar incorporates a sophisticated accelerometer sensor to detect rapid deceleration from either throttle release or downshift and will activate the brake light automatically. For more information, visit admorelighting.com.

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

51

THE ULTIMATE HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE Reduce vibrations AdaptivMount, designed with a combination of high strength steel, aircraft grade anodized aluminum and their patent-pending AdaptiSorb Anti-Vibration Technology, greatly reduces vibrations transferred from the bike to the mounted gadget. The double ball-joint design provides a high degree of freedom for optimal positioning and simple installation. To see all Adaptiv Technologies products, visit AdaptivTech.com.

Challenger Series panniers

Up your riding comfort To improve riding position and comfort on long rides, Suburban Machinery specializes in replacement footpegs and footpeg lowering kits for BMW motorcycles.

To see all of Suburban Machinery’s products, visit suburban-machinery.com.

Ring in the New Year with the newest generation, state-of-the-art Challenger Series pannier system from Jesse Luggage. Challenger panniers are available in two widths and boast a sleek new design. Upgraded features, such as a redesigned latch system and additional enhancements, also offer improved toughness and water resistance. Get yours at jesseluggage.com.

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Order online: gear.bmwmoa.org

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

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SUMMER OF SMOKE Across the Great Basin to the Beartooth

By Wynne Benti #136810

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BMW OWNERS NEWS  December 2018

B

etween the eastern edge of California and into the Great Basin spanning nearly all of Nevada, most of Oregon and Utah and parts of Idaho and Wyoming, the long flat miles of desert country are measured by landmarks–a tree filled with shoes, a rusted water tank, a black mailbox–each with its own story.

In Tonopah, Nevada, two hours from home, I turn left from US 95 onto Highway 6 and pass a landmark still in morning shadow. The familiar weathered outbuildings of Bobbie’s Buckeye Bar sit on the bulldozed flat top of rust-colored tailings piles as silhouettes of women whispering to each other behind half-drawn window shades are painted on the windowless ends of the buildings. The women and whatever secrets they shared, have quietly faded into the wind-scrubbed siding of the now defunct brothel’s bunkhouses.

In seconds, I’m out of the shade and into the sun. Ahead, Highway 6 to Ely, Nevada, vanishes into the horizon as I pass the Tonopah Speedway and dilapidated World War II-era hangars that delineate the northernmost perimeter of the 2.9 million-acre Nevada Test and Training Range. The next gas station in Ely is 175 miles, and I know my amber fuel light will come on several miles before Ely, so I’ve locked a one-gallon RotoPax gas canister to my tail rack beneath my soft bag.

The mountains and valleys of the basin and range surround me. Beautiful and desolate, they’re a pallet of multi-colored earth tones against a sky greyed by smoke from the California fires—the Ferguson, Lion, Carr, Mendocino Complex, and dozens more—all burning simultaneously. A small scattered herd of wild horses graze peacefully along a hill as Five Mile Ranch comes into view, the old white clapboard ranch house with red trim and an overhanging porch. Miles from any town when built a hundred years ago, half a dozen pickups are parked between corrals but no one’s around, the hands are out on the range.

Rolling along across volcanic basins, over mountain summits between rugged burnt orange and brown ridges, the highway swings past the swimming pool and whitewashed bath house at Warm Springs along the southern edge of the Hot Creek Range and turnoff for Rachel, Nevada.

Several miles ahead, a dirt road leads to

the ghost town of Tybo, in the mountain foothills along the old Army telegraph route from Salt Lake to Carson City. I stop at a small rest area, drink some water, eat an apple and take a picture of my motorcycle.

Up the road is Black Rock Station, an oasis at the edge of Railroad Valley. There, big cottonwood trees shade the house where a store and gas station once operated.

Spring-fed marshlands fan out across the alluvium, surrounded by alkali desert bleached white by sun and evaporating water. A couple parked at the station, wave as I pass by. In seconds, the cottonwoods disappear in my mirror and ahead is Railroad Valley, a long, dry basin edged by distant mountains. A singular cow on a yellow road sign is a reminder that it’s open range—no fences. I park my F 800 GS in the middle of the road and take a picture.

In Ely, the smoky skies have dissipated. I check into the basic, but comfortable Motel 6 with an expansive view of the Schell Creek Range on one side and a dusty equipment yard on the other, then walk two blocks to the Fiesta Mexican Restaurant for dinner. It was good to be riding again after my knee surgery at the beginning of summer. To make up for my lost riding, I was on my way to the Beartooth Beemer Bash in Red Lodge, Montana.

The next morning, I poured a cup of Motel 6 coffee into my oversized 40th anniversary MOA Rally cup, then packed and rode north from Ely, across the Steptoe Valley 140 miles to Wells, Nevada. Between the Hastings Cutoff and Wells, once a prime habitat for pronghorn antelope, metal buildings and manufactured homes have popped up across the large swaths of grasslands. Smoke from the Mendocino Complex and Carr fires burning in northern California covers the sky. In Wells, I stop at Bella’s for breakfast.

North of Twin Falls, in Shoshone, Idaho, I rode east on the Peaks to Craters Scenic Byway, a narrow, two lane road sandwiched between the southernmost edge of three mountain ranges—Sawtooth, Lost River and Lemhi—and an uninterrupted vista of umber-colored volcanic flow topped with sagebrush and grasses. Outside of Arco, Idaho, I pitch my tent and spend the night at the KOA campground.

The first warm light of morning drifts across the mountains and filters through the meadow grass in the field beyond my

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

55

tent. After packing, I ride into town and top off my tires. I chat with a rider returning from Sturgis, then ride east across the flat lands of Idaho National Laboratory into the sun, a deep orange ball hovering above the highway in a dense smoke-filled orange sky.

Listening to music, I glance at my handlebar-mounted Garmin as I bypass downtown Idaho Falls and then sweep into the rolling hills and wheat fields of Swan Valley.

From the Snake River, where fly fishermen cast from their dories, my route turns up the Teton Scenic Byway and climbs steeply,

then and curves into the tall pines of the Targhee National Forest, then up and over Teton Pass and down into Jackson, Wyoming. Moose-Wilson Road is open, so I take it into Grand Teton National Park to avoid Jackson Hole. Mostly paved now, Moose-Wilson is often closed this time of year when bears come down to eat berries.

A faint smoky haze permeates every part of the park, accentuating the distance between foreground forests and the high peaks of the Tetons in a painterly way. Once past the traffic circles, the road ebbs and

Parked along the volcanic flows of Peaks To Craters Scenic Byway near Craters of the Moon National Monument, Idaho

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

flows through the forest, along the Snake River to Jackson Lake, then on into Yellowstone National Park.

South of Old Faithful, a man in his late twenties wearing a faded orange Camp Trails Skyline backpack and a well-worn baseball cap is walking in the middle of the road with both hands raised and middle fingers extended and yelling at the cars.

While I can see his angry mouth moving, my helmet and ear plugs prevent me from hearing what he is saying. Soon, a park ranger zips by in a SUV with lights on and sirens blaring, headed in the man’s direction.

I spend a cozy night in West Yellowstone in a vintage motel along the edge of the park. My plan is to have breakfast in Cooke City, Montana, 90 miles away. In the morning, I followed the lull of the beautiful Madison River back into Yellowstone.

At Tower Junction, dozens of tourists abandoned their vehicles for a look at a small group of buffalo blocking both lanes of traffic.

How lucky, I thought, that Cooke City is this way as I rode in the opposite direction.

Up, down and around a curvy grade, past the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and along a wide river, none of this looked familiar. A street sign for Cody, Wyoming, prompted me to stop and check my maps. I was paralleling the Yellowstone River, not the Lamar River. At Tower Junction, to avoid the buffalo jam, I turned south instead of east—a 60-mile round-trip detour, but really, just another beautiful ride.

It was 2:30 when I stopped just short of Cooke City for lunch at the Log Cabin Inn in the peaceful town of Silver Gate, Montana. Back on the road, I topped off my tank in Cooke City. From there, the Beartooth Highway climbs 3,300 feet into alpine meadows via a series of long straightaways and hairpin curves along a route featuring steep drop offs, rocky walled cliffs, glacial lakes, patches of snow, distant crags, mountain tops, big sky and thin clean air. It’s as close as you can get to mountaineering from the back of a motorcycle. Over the pass, the curves tighten and the drop-offs are sheer before the road straightens out to Red Lodge, Montana. It is in this beautiful river canyon that the Beartooth Beemers were celebrating their 20th anniversary.

The rally is held at the Lion’s Club Youth Camp, a collection of cabins, shower buildings and a dining hall along a forested

Goshute Cave fire near Lages Station, Nevada.

meadow surrounded by the Beartooth Mountains and Custer Gallatin National Forest. There, I spent four luxurious nights camped aside a creek beneath tall pines.

Volunteers from the Lion’s Club are in the kitchen early each morning making coffee and breakfast.

The days were warm and sunny with only one infamous Montana deluge on Saturday. While I had planned to ride back over Beartooth Pass and through the parks again, the pass was closed by snow. I decided to loop north to the interstate toward Jackson, Montana.

The two-lane road from Red Lodge to Absarokee, Montana, meandered through

The Bunkhouse Motel, Jackson, Montana.

gently rolling hills and lots of big ranches, and at one point, two white tail deer leapt through tall grass and ran along the highway beside me. I picked up the interstate to Bozeman, then down to Ennis and Virginia City. With new wildfires in western Montana and eastern Idaho, I passed several firefighter basecamps.

In Jackson, one of Montana’s great little towns known for two hot springs, it is said

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

that Lewis and Clark once boiled elk meat in Jackson’s waters for dinner, after soaking their own bones in it.

I checked into the Bunkhouse Hotel, built in 1910, and with the exception of updated “down the hall” plumbing and bright red walls, it was pretty close to original. Next door, one could get a homecooked meal at Rose’s Cantina, and while in town, I visited the Buffalo Gal Hat

Company. There, owner Paula Husted showed me her hat press and some of the beautiful custom cowboy hats she makes and ships all over the world.

From Wise River to Wisdom, Montana, the road follows the Big Hole River. In Wisdom, 18 miles from Jackson, I stopped to fill up with gas. After noticing the pumps didn’t accept credit cards, I turned to go inside and discovered the store had closed two hours earlier. My RotoPax gas can finally paid off.

The next morning, I had planned to head home via the Sacajawea Scenic Byway through Idaho, but serious Red Flag warnings were in effect with high winds of 45-55 mph along that route. Instead, I rode back to Dillon and toward Montana’s Bannack State Park. After an an early dinner at Rose’s, I retired to my room to read. As the night progressed, the three vacant downstairs bedrooms filled with guests, and I could hear them talking outside my door. One had been caught in a forest fire while hiking the Continental Divide Trail and was evacuated. Another guest was riding the TransAmerica Trail on bicycle and had thought seriously of bedding down in fields 15 miles outside town because of the powerful crosswinds.

Early the next morning, I started towards Salmon, Idaho.

Two miles out of town, I got caught on the backside of the biggest cattle drive I’ve ever seen with at least 1,000 head of black Angus being driven by cowboys on horseback and their border collies. A little over an hour later, while still rolling along at cow speed, the cows, cowboys and dogs turned off the highway. In Salmon, I caught the Sacajawea Historic Byway, which runs between the Lemhi and Beaverhead mountains of southeastern Idaho. The road ended at Mud Lake on Highway 33, and from there, I started back home, following the same beautiful route through the Great Basin I always take when I go this way..

Right, Bear warning signs, Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway, Polaris, Montana.

Below, USFS Pioneer Mountain Scenic Byway.

December 2018  BMW OWNERS NEWS

59

Hacking the

Bagger

By Kurtis Minder #141660

60

BMW OWNERS NEWS  December 2018

December 2018  BMW OWNERS NEWS

61

“S

eth, we have much to talk about...” Seth arrived at our first meeting and set his motorcycle helmet on the table. My public relations person rolled his eyes. “What do you ride?”

I asked, thus beginning a 30-minute conversation about motorcycles in which a trip was planned. Business conversation followed.

Seth Rosenblatt is a well-known technology journalist. He is a reporter and editor for The Parallax, a consumer-oriented security and privacy news site. My PR firm directed me to meet with Seth because my company, a cyber security firm, recently did some work that Seth would find interesting.

Delighted that my new contact was an avid motorcyclist, I effortlessly accepted his invite to ride to BlackHat and DEFCON, the world’s largest cyber security conferences, with him and Paul Vixie. Paul Vixie is a well-known technologist and is largely credited with the development of the

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

software that became the modern domain name system. The fact that you and I can type www dot anything and get anywhere is in part due to Paul Vixie’s work.

The previous year I rode my 2014 R 1200 GS with one of my colleagues from our offices near Washington, D.C. to the same conferences, which are held in Vegas each August. This year I couldn’t afford the time to ride across the country, so I arranged with a colleague who had a new K 1600 B in Los Angeles to borrow the machine for a bit. I was already curious about this machine, which seemed to pander to a motorcycle audience atypical for BMW. I heard so many great things about the K 1600 engine, but had not experienced anything BMW beyond Boxer-engined models.

My plan was to pick up the bike in Torrance, just south of LA, ride the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) to Santa Barbara, and visit a friend for a couple days. I would

continue on the PCH to San Jose to meet with one of my company’s advisors, also a motorcycle enthusiast. Following that, I would meet up with Seth and Paul to start our journey through the Sierras and across the desert to Las Vegas. All of this would be done on a sweet 2018 K 1600 B.

Hacking 101

BlackHat and DEFCON are annual conferences focused on information security and hacking. Information security is selfexplanatory, but hacking can take many forms. To those in the field, hacking is two things. It’s what the mainstream media correctly depicts as computer crimes and breaking into systems for profit or gain. It is also a technological discipline of taking things apart, putting them together, and generally making them do something they weren’t intended to do. For example, if you took a Roomba apart and messed with the software controller to get the machine to do

a specific pattern in your room, a dance or something, that would be hacking. Lock picking is hacking. Convincing someone to do or tell you something they shouldn’t is a form of hacking called social engineering.

In this way, hacking is not all bad, but a form of academic research into systems.

Simply, it is using something in a way that was unintended by the creator. I planned on hacking the Bagger—sorry, BMW! The term “bagger” is commonly used to define a cruiser motorcycle with bags. More specifically, it is typically aligned with Harley-Davidsons with hard bags, sometimes paint matched and permanently affixed to the machine. Having thrown my leg over a traditional bagger or two, I was perplexed as to how a German motorcycle manufacturer would approach this classification. Baggers are big machines, they rumble and roar, they ride in a straight line well, but are less nimble than a European machine. Why did BMW make one of these? Who is it for?

As I first threw my leg over and uprighted the bike, I tried to put myself in the head of a traditional bagger owner. I closed my eyes and imagined what those are like. Loud, snarly, shaky and low-slung. This didn’t feel at all that way. I thumbed the starter and it sounded like I hit the ignition on a flying saucer. The six-cylinder 1600cc engine is smooth and unassuming. Timidly, I rolled on the throttle and rode this spaceship right into the worst traffic in the continental U.S. As expected, the bike is a marvel of engineering. Unquestionably German, the fit

not a bagger. I think the traditional bagger rider would find this machine to be too refined, too smooth, too German. I made a mental note as I pulled into Santa Barbara to call somebody who owns a dealership to find out who is buying this bike.

I spoke with Brian Carey, VP of North American Product Management for BMW Motorrad. Brian said he feels, “The bagger’s primary appeal is around style and design, which is a new angle for BMW. Riders buy the [K 1600] GT for function and amenities; they buy the Bagger for the design, an

and feel of the ride was precise. I initially struggled with the menus on the console, at one point turning on the seat heaters inadvertently—not something you want to do in LA in August! I had an ongoing issue with finding neutral throughout the trip, having to do the obligatory up-then-down motion to get it to click in. As I headed for Santa Barbara, I thought about traditional bagger riders on this bike and how they would be feeling. Shifting through the gears and finally getting on it a bit on the PCH, it changed from a flying saucer into the Batcycle. It roared and pulled hard out of the corners, surprisingly nimble for a 750pound machine. It is a great machine, but

appreciation for an emotional connection with style.”

The Pick Up

My first impression of the bike was that it looked like a spaceship. It is big, dark and futuristic looking. Sleek, though, as sleek as a bike this size can be.

The integrated bags are slick looking; even the passenger grab bars seem refined. The seat looked extravagant and integrated with the bike so well that I wondered if an aftermarket seat could ever work aesthetically.

I came equipped to ride and work. I had a backpack, helmet bag and an Ortlieb dry bag with all of my motorcycle gear. Opening one of the side cases on the Bagger, I realized I was in for an engineering exercise. Small and side-loading, these were not made for the trip I was on. Further, the grab rails were too sleek to confidently secure any hooks from the bungee net I brought along, and there didn’t appear to be any other place to fasten them. Sleek indeed. I spent about 20 minutes refactoring my gear and left behind the helmet bag and backpack, empty. Surprisingly, I was able to fit everything I brought into the cases. Barely.

Big Sur and the PCH

A couple of fine days in Santa Barbara passed, and it was time to jump back on the PCH to head for San Jose. One of my company’s advisors, Joel, is a successful Silicon Valley entrepreneur and motorcycle enthusiast, and he promised me a place to stay and a guided ride to one of the Valley’s motorcycle hangouts for breakfast the next morning. On the PCH I witnessed some of the most amazing views I have seen on a motorcycle, navigating through beautiful sun and surf and the occasional fog bank. I

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also encountered the first of two motorcycle incidents I would witness on the trip.

This incident involved a group of GS riders on the PCH, one of whom had been rearended by an ambitious Mercedes on a blind curve. I stopped to talk to the rest of the riders to ensure they had what they needed.

Indeed, they had it under control. My best to you fellas if you are reading this. I continued on, watching my six for other hotheaded car drivers.

The PCH is an amazing and ever-changing landscape. Immediately upon launching from Santa Barbara and heading north on Rt. 1, ocean views and epic sweeping curves threw themselves at me faster than I could consume. Time flew by as I mentally engaged on the turns into the straights only to shift focus to the view and then back again. The bike showcased its guts on these curves, snarling and popping as I rolled on the throttle out of each curve. The spaceship would morph into a dragon from moment to moment, gifting me cliff face and tide views that rival museum paintings.

I arrived in San Jose to meet Joel and Yip. Yip is a successful Valley patent attorney and befriended Joel after filing a few of his patents. Yip piloted a Triumph Street Triple R and Joel sported a beautiful Ducati 899 Panigale. As we ate sushi and got caught up on business, I wondered how I was going to keep up with these guys the next morning.

Alice’s in the Valley

We woke to a typical San Jose sunrise.

Temps in the 70s, sunny, fresh. We were headed for Alice’s, a staple Valley breakfast spot on the top of Skyline Drive.

The parking lot on weekend mornings at Alice’s is packed with supercars, classic rebuilds, exotics and myriad motorcycles.

We swung by Yip’s and in a few short highway miles we were exiting and heading into the hills. Rt. 9 is splendid, and early on a Saturday you can fully enjoy the curves and scenery. I was ready to keep up and stayed on Joel and Yip as they snaked through the twisties. When we parked, Yip remarked, “Dude, that thing is a machine!” I was hoping he would give more credit to the rider, but he was right. The K 1600 motor is an engineering masterpiece; taken into the high RPMs it can be as sporty as you need it to be to have any kind of legal (or slightly illegal) fun on the road. Sitting at the table

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with two tech titans, the discussion turned toward motorcycle technology. The K is packed with it, much of it standard. Adaptive headlight, adjustable suspension, ride by wire with real time adjustable ride modes, ABS, traction control. It is a data center’s worth of computer smarts on two wheels and powered by the lightest, most compact inline six-cylinder engine ever produced.

After breakfast I returned to the bike to find it surrounded by local riders. They wanted to know all about it. One gentleman, a Honda Gold Wing owner, explained to me how to use the reverse gear. (I did not read the manual.) The general consensus was that it was a sweet looking bike and many of the riders were unaware of its existence until that morning. “Cheers!” I yelled as I rolled off the lot to head past the famous Sand Hill road and onto the 405 to head to Copperopolis to meet Paul and Seth.

Copperopolis and Paul Vixie

While many of California Sierra foothill towns were settled around gold mining, Copperopolis was settled on copper. It sits about 110 miles slightly northeast of Oakland, just on the edge of New Melones Lake and the Stanislaus National Forest, tucked along the western slopes of the Sierra mountains. Getting there was an adventure, as the 205 was perpetually backed up; I leveraged my newfound lane splitting skills to make my coffee with Seth and Paul just in time. I knew I was in the right place when I saw the vintage airhead parked in front of the coffee shop. It looked to be an early ‘80s R 100, but I couldn’t make the class of the bike. I walked into the shop, about to meet an internet luminary.

Anyone who has been in tech should know who Paul is; he pioneered the software and systems that allow us to browse the internet and send email. Having spent my career building and securing internet infrastructures, I was humbled to meet Paul. Unsurprisingly, our introductory conversations were entirely about motorcycles.

I learned that Paul is an avid BMW rider, and the R 100 parked in front of the coffee shop was a 1983 police model which, after budget cuts, was relegated to the sales floor.

Paul picked it up for a song new in 1983.

The police modifications, which included improved suspension and carburetion, left the R 100 without the trailing class

designation. It was simply an R 100, and unique. As we became acclimated to one another’s moto history, we received a call from Seth. He wasn’t going to make it, the magic smoke was pouring out of his bike on the side of the 205.

Lane Splitting

I am from Illinois and currently live in D.C. I have virtually no lane splitting experience.

Further, I ride smaller, skinnier bikes. The Bagger is huge. When I picked up the bike, I noticed the mirrors were wider than the bags, so I decided if the mirrors fit, I am good. It took a while sitting in the hot California sun on the interstate for me to garner the courage to lane split, but once I did it was magical. It helps that because it is common practice in California, the drivers tend to give you room. I needed it. That said, the bike easily cruised between the cars, and I gained confidence as it became a fun part of my trip. I found the lane splitting experience to be challenging and engaging, especially since the K 1600 B is low-slung and superbly stable at low speeds, making it ideal for the task.

The Sierra Ride

Paul took the lead and the vintage airhead began carving a path for my flying-saucermeets-stealth-bomber through the Sierra Nevada mountain passes. We started on Rt. 4, heading slightly northeast and climbed the mountain. The roads and views were epic yet fleeting for me, as I was still trying to get my arms around navigating with this machine. As we climbed nearer to Ebbetts Pass (8,736 ft.), the roads narrowed to a single lane. Much of it was vast stone on one side and a sheer drop on the other. I was reminded how much of a role the rider plays in how a bike handles as I observed Paul carving these roads with sheer confidence. I lagged behind, still timid on the K but gaining confidence in the maneuverability of the machine. The bulky impression of the bike had me worried on a number of blind corners. Paul masterfully navigated each hairpin, demonstrating the magic of a man who had become one with a bike he has been riding for 40 years. As we made our way from Rt. 4 to 89, heading east toward Nevada, my confidence in the K came to life. Every time I dove into the corners and rolled on the throttle on exit, the bagger would pull hard and let out a snarl.

me from the deluge of ash. Benton Hot Springs was the destination, and as we pulled in, it was bittersweet. It was abundantly clear that this place would be a beautiful spot, but the smoke lowered a terrible veil over the landscape. Benton is a tiny town once serving as a supply base for nearby mining towns. Underground geothermal springs feed the wells and fountains, spouting clean, 135-degree mountain spring water. We unpacked the bikes and settled in. Beers in hand, we finally moved past motorcycles and into tech. Humbled, I listened to Paul’s impressive life experiences and how he adapted to changes in the tech landscape over the course of three decades.

He didn’t ride the wave, he helped create it.

Ultimately, Paul found solace on the bike from the hectic and fast paced technology space, as I did. We bonded on this and planned our route to the BlackHat and Defcon conferences in Vegas.

Vegas, Baby!

The electric adjustable shield was in the low position and I could feel the mountain air, and the BMWs, old and new, dove into the eastern valleys through the haze of the smoke from the Carr forest fires.

Fires

We experienced the gamut of air quality on the ride. At the time we were riding through the Sierras, firefighters were fighting three major fires, the largest of which, Carr, destroyed 1,079 residences, 22 commercial structures, and 503 outbuildings, and severely damaged 190 residences, 26 commercial structures and 63 outbuildings. The fire caused the deaths of eight people, including three firefighters. All in all, 2018 was rough for California. There were 6,188

fires that burned an area of 1,489,473 acres and caused $2.8 billion in damages. Our ride through the Sierras went from crystal clear to whiteout conditions from ash that looked like a snowstorm, tainted with the smell of burning pine. It was a sobering experience and a reminder of how delicate and simultaneously dangerous the environment can be. My respect and hats off to the brave firefighters who went to battle.

Benton

We descended out of the Sierras on highway 395 heading south, engulfed by thick smoke. At times smoke obscured the sun, the sky looming an ominous blended red and grey. The electric adjustable windshield from the K in the full up position protected

Much of the ride from Benton to Vegas is what you would expect, desert. Temperatures soared to 110 degrees and higher. The roads flattened, becoming long and straight, seemingly existing as punishment for the amazing riding the day prior. It was on these roads I became acclimated to the forward foot boards. I am not a fan of the footforward position of the traditional cruiser, but the K 1600 B offers a hybrid approach.

The controls are situated in a more standard or Euro position that allows for an approximate 90-degree leg bend. The bike also sports flat foot boards in a forward position like a traditional cruiser would.

While I was skeptical, this feature not only allowed me to stretch my legs, but changed the airflow and allowed the wind to enter my armored pants’ vents more effectively.

Passing the Harley baggers as I rolled into Las Vegas, I was reminded to make a few calls. I called Bob Henig, owner of Bob’s BMW in Jessup, Maryland. “Bob, tell me who is buying this amazing machine that looks like something Batman would ride.”

Bob reported that they had seen a decent number of Harley trade-ins, but a nearly equal number of trade-ins of GTs, GTLs, and even someone upgrading from the C 650 BMW scooter. This bike is more approachable to buyers with a shorter inseam, and it offers a unique style. Brian Carey of BMW Motorrad told me many

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Bagger buyers were adding one to their stable rather than trading in another bike. I am a fan of this strategy.

The console read 113 degrees outdoors as we entered Vegas. I waved goodbye to Paul at an intersection and headed to meet some of my colleagues. We had seven days of customer meetings, hacker events and media interviews ahead of us. The bike remained parked during most of the conference week, but I found myself eagerly waking early and taking it for a ride before the sunrise to enjoy the bike and the Vegas lights.

BlackHat and DEFCON

BlackHat and DEFCON are the world’s largest cyber security conferences. Each year over 30,000 computer security professionals, government practitioners and hackers descend on Vegas to collaborate, build and break things. On motorcycles (as well as cars), the systems that manifest everything from traction control and the fuel/air mixture to tire pressure monitors (TPM) and ABS brakes are centrally controlled by the bikes’ computers. These computers are susceptible to remote attacks. At prior conferences, hackers demonstrated how some TPM systems could be compromised, giving somebody away from the vehicle control of the steering, brakes and even windshield wipers. The systems in automobiles are strikingly similar to motorcycles, and these vulnerabilities could be present in our bikes. Conferences like DEFCON are a safe venue for the research community to discover and responsibly report these vulnerabilities and attack vectors.

They are also a good venue to get your data stolen. My phone remained in airplane mode throughout the conferences.

The second accident

I left my AirBnb on the K at approximately 4:30 a.m. for a brief ride before Vegas rebooted and lost all moto approachability. My AirBnb was about a two-mile straight shot from the strip. I had only ridden approximately one quarter of that distance when I came upon a motorcyclist lying on his back in the center of the lane, his mangled bike to his right. He was talking but was clearly in shock. A Lyft driver had stopped and was comforting him, visibly upset that oncoming traffic refused to stop, instead driving around the vulnerable and injured rider. I blocked as

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much traffic with the K as I could and called 911. Frustratingly, the driver that had pulled in front of the rider was standing on the median shouting over and over to no-one and everyone about how it wasn’t his fault, “He was going too fast, 100 mph!” He was more interested in adjudicating his position than calling 911 to assist the human lying in front of him. Perhaps the most frustrating part of the experience was that traffic insisted in creeping around my bike and the Lyft driver’s car to proceed past the incident, sometimes driving within inches of the injured rider’s limbs and crunching over pieces of his bike. Perpetrators included a Las Vegas municipal bus, which I reported to the authorities promptly after returning to my AirBnb. I waited until the EMTs arrived, leaving them to their work. I sincerely hope the gentleman is doing well now. Be safe, friends.

Sandbagged at Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree National Park in southeastern California covers nearly 800,000 acres and is larger than the state of Rhode Island. It is named after the Yucca brevifolia, an unusual looking tree native to the Mohave Desert. It was given the nickname Joshua tree by the early Mormon settlers, who were reminded of a Biblical passage in which Joshua reached his hands to the sky in

prayer. They are pervasive in the park and form sparse forests decorating the arid, sandy landscape. I had always wanted to check this place out, and the park was more or less on the way back to LA. I booked a couple nights at an AirBnb nearby and pointed the Bagger toward the golden state.

Arriving in Joshua Tree, I faced an immediate challenge. There was sand everywhere.

Even in town, the paved roads were coated with inches of soft, fine-grained sand. As I pulled up to my AirBnb the K came to an abrupt stop in the drive, the front wheel submerged in golden grains of Mohave dust. Recognizing that more momentum would be required to traverse the trap, I surgically used the reverse gear to back out of the mess and parked on the road. This was going to be a recurring challenge.

Each morning, I woke before sunrise, hopped on the K 1600 B and rode to a trailhead. The first day as I followed the GPS, it was pitch black. As I neared the trailhead I could feel the ground beneath the tires shift from pavement to mushy sand. I was riding a 750-pound cruiser in the dark in who knows how many inches of soft sand. I have done a fair amount of off-road riding on both small dirt bikes and large adventure bikes, and sand is challenging for those machines. I applied the same principles of throttle and eyes-forward

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focus. The eye focus did very little because I couldn’t see in the dark, but the K handled it with grace. In no time I was parked at the trailhead.

The hikes were epic. The desert is a freakishly quiet place, especially early in the morning. Amazing sunrises and temperatures cool enough to make the hikes enjoyable were the rewards for my brave off-roading each day. These early approaches were necessary, as the temps reached 110 degrees by 11 a.m. daily.

Each morning was a rinse-and-repeat of the first; I would ride from the town of Joshua Tree and venture deep into the dark desert, eventually hitting the pillow-like sand, then carry on with confidence and throttle control to the trailhead. I had hacked the K. I am confident that the engineers who built this machine had no intention of a rider burrowing through the desert at 4:30 a.m. to park in the middle of nowhere, strip off armored gear and hike for hours. Of course, neither did the colleague who had lent me the machine. I am sure this article will be eye-opening for both.

The Return

If you have never ridden through windmill alley in southeast California, good for you.

Just don’t. Windmill Alley is the moniker assigned to the San Gorgonio Pass Wind Farm, a collection of over 3,000 windmills that produce approximately 615 megawatts of electricity. The pass was chosen for the farm due to a constant strong wind. I noticed immediately that the fully faired Bagger responded to the strong wind

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current and the volatility of the other vehicles like a sail. I had to keep my wits about me to navigate what is considered one of the windiest places in California.

As I rolled back into Los Angeles to return the bike, I knew I had probably taken this bike for granted. As much as I appreciated it during the ride, I barely took advantage of what it had to offer. For instance, I never once adjusted the wind deflector vents or used the Sirius satellite radio. I never used the hill start feature, which if you pull the brake lever hard and release, it will hold the bike on a hill, only releasing when the throttle is engaged. Regardless, I was grateful to have had the opportunity to

ride such a fine machine, even if it is a tad out of my genre preferences. I parked her in her garage and grabbed a rideshare to the beach to await my red eye flight back to D.C. The K 1600 B, a machine primarily intended to have a strong aesthetic appeal, was comprehensive on the road. It was a strong performer on the interstate, seaside and mountain passes. The machine performed in the desert and even in deep sand, all while looking great. Regardless of whether or not this machine appeals to you, BMW Motorrad has built something remarkable. Ride safe and often!

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D

A

UN

LOOP A E M I L RO B SU

the Southwestern States

By Lisa Morris # 205543 Photos by Jason Spafford

Canyonlands National Park.

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WHEELING UP TO THE U.S. BORDER AT

Tecate was more of a “Triple Whopper with fries” drive-through experience than the usual cacophony of queues and chaos surrounding the more southern Fronteras. The two-year familiarity of my old, comforting Latin American life was about to leave me for a convenient and First World one. A U.S. Immigration official greeted us formally at the barrier into the States. Plenty of instructional “Pleases” and “Thank you’s” but few of the warm pleasantries to which I’d become accustomed.

Upon enquiring where we might find the Mexican Aduana to relinquish our temporary motorcycle permits, the U.S. officer looked at me square on and in a reassuring tone remarked, “Don’t worry ma’am, you’re safe now.” Having experienced months of color and contrast, unharmed and far from intimidated through the length and breadth of Mexico—right from the southernmost tip of Argentina in fact—it was curious to fathom the context behind such a statement.

We went on to savor a short but sweet taste of California. Wonderfully, the hospitality of a family whose social circle comprised a couple of medicinal marijuana dispensers, a female windsurfing Olympic gold medalist, and a well-traveled

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Frenchman. It exploded the ordinary order of things and showed me the endless possibilities through an eclectic mix of people who had been there all along. We departed, grateful to our Californian hosts who had warmly facilitated our assimilation back into First World living.

Ahead of us lay yellowish-brown, open country, studded with cacti. Arizona was the first place I’d been to in a while that turned out to look exactly as I’d pictured it.

As we rode along a ribbon of rocky desert, slanting sunlight gleamed off an endless pile of white, fluffy clouds extending as far as the eye could see. I was charmed by the ingredients of the ride.

Without hesitation, I became immersed in the local offerings, including plopping ourselves in the stony Sonoran Desert not far from Gold Nugget Road, just outside of Quartzsite. A magnet for rock hounds and a mecca for the RV boondocking capital of the world. Leaving the snowbirds to it, we parked our bikes and bottoms a respectful distance away to watch the sun commence its colorful descent in glorious seclusion. It was a gem of La Paz County, all right.

An interesting opening presented itself en route, one that took us to a vast, milewide hole in the middle of the northern Arizona desert. Meteor Crater is worth a

visit, particularly if you can find the free off-road trails leading right up to the huge cavity. A couple of tumbledown shacks— rustic throughout—added to the casual backcountry exploration.

Beckoning us like a bear to honey, our two-wheel jaunt on a circuitous loop of the southwest naturally compelled us to the vista-fantastic state that is Colorado. Amid forests of aspen drenched in leaves the color of sulfur, we soon ascended into Highway 550’s chillier climes. My first glimpse of a snowscape in a while; the cold burrowed through me like a worm as we shivered our way toward Silverton.

Taken unaware, I’d not been so ill-prepared in a long time, having carelessly left the cold-weather riding gear back in Arizona. A hard white chill gripped me, it ate at my bones. My breath made a spool-shaped flicker of steam on the visor below a deceptive sun, which shone anemically through a thin gruel of cloud cover. Light snow began to fall, meandering flakes that seemed little more than the air itself but soon coalescing into hard grey pellets.

The best I could do was pull over, shuddering uncontrollably while blowing into cupped hands and heating them on Pearl’s engine, courtesy of my F 650 GS. The vast wilderness swathed in tree-clad mountains,

Along Colorado's Million Dollar Highway.

Grand Lake, Colorado.

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scenic byways and high snow-capped peaks along the Million Dollar Highway was a sight to behold. I wasn’t about to let something as trivial as the icy temperatures stop me from enjoying myself on a rare day of unpopulated beauty. Just look where you are, Lisa!

Climbing above 11,000 feet the following day, somewhat more acclimatized, we reentered the glittering scene of tall pines laced in thick snow, sparkling in the sun.

Monarch Pass in the Rocky Mountains was a bag of early festive fun I hadn’t expected in October. Whichever way I looked, mountain peaks wore fluffy white sashes around their middles, and evergreens cloaked themselves in a heavy coat of snow.

Life slows down in colder climes and more often than not, that’s exactly what the soul needs–a winter wonderland that can take your breath away. It did mine.

Highway 70 took us at full tilt for 360 miles from Denver to Moab, the start of our ride back. It seemed sacrilege not to take advantage of Utah’s sweet spots. Hiking up to the red rock wonders of Delicate Arch in eastern Utah, just one of 2,000 natural

Monument Valley, Utah.

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sandstone arches, my heart was pounding at the top of the climb among the shadowy, giant world of rock.

Arches National Park sits a mere four miles north of Moab, giving us ample opportunity to get our fill of balanced rocks, fins, and pinnacles set in a striking environment. The colors were brilliant, mostly of radiant reds, russet and ochre against unblemished blue skies. In some areas, faulting had exposed millions of years of geological history. It was extraordinary.

Once my heart returned to a normal resting rate, I stared into it all in meditative tranquillity. Oh, look! A rock squirrel, disturbed by a handful of folks near its habitat, scurried silently into the middle distance.

With the grace of its kind, another cupped its body to brake on the air, dropped onto the bark of a tree, and vanished.

More mesmerizing landscapes carved from sedimentary sandstone took us to Canyonlands in southeastern Utah, where interesting landforms and textures piqued my interest. The park preserves a spectrum of color within countless canyons, mesas, and buttes, broken up by the Colorado

River and its confluence of tributaries. I sat in a vast basin bordered by sheer cliffs, where Dead Horse Point exists as a jaw-onthe-floor vantage point. It felt as though I was riding through the pages of National Geographic, another piece of a dream come true.

Indian petroglyphs, natural stone arches and the spectacular vistas of Canyonlands opened up at virtually every corner, especially when teetering on the edge of a cliff at 2,000 feet. Better known as the Shafer Trail, we took in some of the 18 miles of dirt; it’s one of those roads that will humble the biggest of egos.

Although the afternoon was calm, I shielded myself from the winds stirred up by the canyon’s vastness. The sun was on its way down. It threw a hammered, golden light onto the cliff faces, which tumbled into a sea of purple darkness. I danced ecstatically at the top of the trail, emitting surprised little groans. I caught hold of the camera and swung it up toward a vivid pink gash of cloud. At that hour, the area was empty. The late afternoon light, brilliant but without warmth, washed our faces. “Amaz-

Delicate Arch located in Arches National Park in eastern Utah.

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Monument Valley.

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ing,” I mouthed unhurriedly.

Straddling the border of northeastern Arizona and southeastern Utah, sits yet another incredible cluster of the Colorado Plateau’s towering sandstone buttes, mesas, and spires. Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park is perfect for those hungry to devour more red-sand desert. The natural architecture is impossibly pleasing, steeply sloped, and despite its iconic beauty inspiring the location for countless movies; as part of an Indian reservation, it remains a preservation site for the Navajo way of life. Like most of our visual encounters in the southern national parks, few places elsewhere have made such an impact.

The changing sunset sky gave way to a night that was blacker than black, lit exquisitely by Jupiter looking down on Venus as I shared the view.

An overnight pit stop in Joshua Tree National Park concluded the loop of the southern states, which saw us ensconced in an ecological melting pot. Lined by a jumble of stacked boulders and walls of imposing granite, the convergence of two great deserts, the Mojave and Colorado, blend together in a barbed landscape adorned in flora and fauna. Such marvels of the desert simply keep going about their business, adapting to the relentless sun, little water and temperatures from below freezing to well above 100°F. As a non-desert dweller, I pondered how the park’s hardy residents conserve enough moisture and beat the heat. However they seek sustenance to ensure their survival, my soul gets nourished in such faraway places.

Sometimes I wonder if it’s a biological need or a DNA flaw that compels us to seek the excitement that comes in a place unfamiliar. I never know if a place will pull, prickle, tickle or tease, challenge or enlighten me. But I must say, the southwestern states are doing quite a job already, all of it binding me to the boundless joy and warmth in this life.

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Joshua Tree National Park.

www.bohnarmor.com

www.ayresadventures.com

Join the BMW MOA FACEBOOK page today! Get the MOA Newsfeed via Twitter for more BMW and motorcycle news – www.twitter.com/bmwmoa December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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FromtheFOUNDATION

FOUNDATION

When training trumps riding

OUR MISSION

The BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Foundation is dedicated to supporting motorcycling and its rich heritage for BMW MOA members and the motorcycling public by funding programs that advance rider safety, education and training.

BMW MOA FOUNDATION OFFICERS

Chuck Manley, President cmanley@bmwmoaf.org Vance Harrelson, Vice President vance@bmwmoaf.org Will McHardy, Secretary wmchardy@bmwmoaf.org Tom Gary, Treasurer tgary@bmwmoaf.org BMW MOA FOUNDATION DIRECTORS

Mark Austin maustin@bmwmoaf.org Ken Hall khall@bmwmoaf.org Kate Lammers klammers@bmwmoaf.org Randy Logan rlogan@bmwmoaf.org

By Ted Moyer #100360 RECENTLY, I WAS STARING AT A MAP OF

Arkansas and dreaming of a colorful fall ride through the Ozarks. A buddy and I were planning a quick interstate trip to Jonesboro and then two days of riding the best roads the Rever app could identify.

We’d then follow that up with a rest day in Fayetteville for some college football with the Razorback crowd.

Fall in the Ozarks is a great escape, and this was a solid plan until my phone buzzed with a text message from my buddy and designer of the “Ozark Escape.”

“Would you be disappointed if I didn’t go on the Arkansas trip? There is a training session at the BMW Performance Center, and I have always wanted to go.”

questions about riding gear, accessories and places to ride. We took a road trip together to an off-road event, and he was quickly hooked on the passion of motorcycling. Keith soon graduated to an R 1150 R, then purchased an R 1150 GS and has since given up his car to a teenage son. In three short years, his motorcycle has become his only form of transportation. Motorcycling has created yet another monster.

Keith’s training weekend was at the BMW Performance Center in Greer, South Carolina. It is a one-day class with a half day spent on on-road skills and a half day introducing riders to off-road riding. The training includes the use of a rental GS that eliminates the threat of damaging your

“WOULD YOU BE DISAPPOINTED IF I DIDN’T GO ON THE ARKANSAS TRIP? THERE IS A TRAINING SESSION AT THE BMW PERFORMANCE CENTER, AND I HAVE ALWAYS WANTED TO GO.”

BMW MOA FOUNDATION HEADQUARTERS

220 North Main Street Suite 500 Greenville, SC 29601 (205) 821-7205 Ted Moyer, Executive Director tmoyer@bmwmoaf.org

Disappointed? I’ve only been daydreaming for the last three hours about mountain roads, fresh air and campfires without any digital devices. Why would I be disappointed?

Given my stance on safety, education and training, it is difficult to tell a fellow rider they should forgo a limited opportunity for some of the best formalized training in the country. And, to add insult to injury, my friend had convinced his neighbor to attend the training. Just like that, my weekend changed from mountain roads in the fall to raking mountains of fallen leaves.

The trainee, we’ll call him Keith to protect his identity since he stood me up like a bad blind date, rediscovered motorcycling three years ago at the age of 47. He purchased a KLR650 and started to ask

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

bike during difficult maneuvers. The Performance Center trainers are some of the best in the country, and the ratio of instructors offers very personalized training. I must admit I was anxious to hear a recap and see how the weekend fared.

It was a very wet weekend in Greer during Keith’s training. It literally rained for all eight of the eight hours of training. There was not a moment that it did not rain.

We’re talking rain. Yet, when Keith dropped in to give me a recap of his weekend without me, it was described as the best weekend ever!

How is that possible? Keith was at a training class, spending most of his time with the bike stopped in the pouring rain, waiting for his turn to perform a swift braking exercise or listening to an instructor explain the finer points of evasive

www.epmwilbers.com maneuvers. Riding a GS in an open field of muddy slop at 15 mph couldn’t possibly hold a candle to the best sun-drenched twisty roads in the country. Keith must be delusional.

Actually, Keith discovered what most riders desperately need to understand: skill training and improving riding technique creates opportunities you never imagined possible. Keith left the Performance Center with new abilities that allow him the confidence to tackle riding opportunities and challenges that were previously beyond his limits. Quite simply, the training opened new doors to the world that were unknown to him just a few days before.

This is a lesson I had forgotten. While I am still bitter about missing a riding weekend, Keith’s training experience reminded me of a fundamental tenant of my own rider training. Every new or improved skill creates a new possibility. The confidence of greater skill leads to new adventures in motorcycling.

And here is the bonus lesson for all of us: the training can be the adventure. Alongside the training event, Keith added a jaunt through the North Carolina mountains.

He spent an extra night dreaming beside the campfire of places he would go next. As he told me about his training experience, he said. “I want to do more of this. I’m ready for my next adventure.”

A motorcyclist, three years deep into his new riding career, is ready for his next adventure due to training. Where is your next adventure? Why don’t you organize a road trip that involves a training class and discover some new possibilities? You never know what doors may open. And, while you are at it, drag along your riding partner and open their eyes, too. Rider training can be an empowering tool if we allow it.

As always, I encourage you to ride safe.

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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skills 82

Riding the mountain line

By James Ford #61985 ALL BMW MOTORCYCLES EXCEL

as sport-tourers, some better than others, but they all do the job. I would also argue that more BMW riders emphasize the touring aspects of motorcycling and not so much the sport. Not me.

For nearly 30 years, my emphasis has been on the sport aspect of BMW motorcycling, and my emphasis has been on technique, mindset, pace, posture, and especially cool roads, for a sporting ride. When people ask me why I rarely leave the Appalachian and Blue Ridge Mountains, I tell them it’s because that’s where the curves are! I’ve written it once and I’ll write it again: I (that’s me personally) am not motorcycling unless my motorcycle is leaning. There just have to be curves!

There must also be speed.

Come on, let’s be real. Isn’t BMW motorcycling a wee bit more fun if you ride kinda/sorta fast? Not gonzogo-fast, but isn’t it more fun if the pace is at least slightly spirited? Especially nowadays with 130+ horsepower engines nearly the norm, it’s so easy to ratchet the speed up!

Here’s the thing—you can’t ride fast! Oh, you can—just not through curves. If you do, it’s only a matter of time before you crash. Riding fast in the curves is dangerous, dummy!

There is a way to reconcile our fondness for fast and need for speed—with safety. Ever been on the racetrack? If so, you’ll recall that an instructor likely took you around the

BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

track and showed you the racing line. It’s the fastest path around the track. The purpose of the racing line is maximum speed.

Ever been in the mountains? It helps to know the mountain line. The purpose of the mountain line is maximum safety and over the years, I’ve engineered a blueprint for visualizing the mountain line in the form of a mantra. Every word is cherrypicked: Anticipate continuously. Now, precisely pre-position yourself for safety first, then traction, then for the absolute clearest view of the vanishing point.

Anticipate Continuously

Can you think of a more important motorcycling mindset than this? You’ve got to keep your mind ahead of the motorcycle.

Now

Do it now. Be crisp. Be sharp. Do it now!

Precisely

Tighten your tolerances. Position your motorcycle on the pavement exactly where it needs to be.

Pre-Position

Place your motorcycle in position and twist in the right speed before you arrive at critical junctures along a mountain road.

(Anticipate!)

Safety

Entire books are written on this subject. For our purposes here: Don’t hit anything, don’t get hit, and don’t fall off!

Traction

The road surface is a continuous study.

Become its best student. Drill your eyeballs into the pavement and scrutinize it. Be especially watchful for sudden gravel, wet tar, and off-camber.

Vanishing Point

The vanishing point is sluggish on a straight road. It sits out on the horizon and can be easily ignored. The vanishing point is dynamic on a curvy road. Ignore it at your peril. It will dance to the left, then juke to the right. It will move up close, then move far away. It will speed up. It will slow down.

The curvier the road, the more rapidly it moves. The tighter the curve, the faster it moves until it matches your speed.

In maybe 0.1 percent of any ride, you are dealing with overt issues of safety and traction. Thus, for 99.9 percent of a ride, the goal is to continuously place your motorcycle for the clearest view of the vanishing point. This keeps you attentive and continuously gives you more time and more distance to relax, ride safely, and have more fun.

Getting good at anything is a mental function first, so commit the mantra to memory! With regular practice and earnest intent, you’ll develop your line, all the while chasing maximum safety.

Remember: Safety First! In time, you’ll get good. Your line will become deliberate and precise. Best of all, you’ll become proficient with all the benefits of proficiency— one of them being speed. With proficiency, you inherit speed without riding fast.

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December 2018  BMW OWNERS NEWS

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lifestyl lifestyl 84

mileageslaves

Pucked again

By David Cwi #28490 I

THOUGHT

IT

was just me. But no.

My dealer gripes about my bike every time I show up.

The best mechanic in the country, Sir Phil, who alone is allowed to touch my precious rolling possession, also gripes. “Unwieldy at low speed.”

For them, it’s the custom seat and their short legs. But I get it, it’s not just me. The dealership would especially gripe when they had to move it off the side stand as all dealers do when they get ready to move it around.

Frankly, I’ve always marveled at that trick. Here you have some little dude walking up to your bike, standing next to it, throwing it up off the side stand and walking around with it. To me, it is an impossible feat—a triumph of human magic over physics. I’m sure that if I ever tried it, I’d drop the bike. I straddle it and walk it about, but then I’m tall, and that custom seat does not interfere with my boots reaching the ground. Heck, I don’t even swing my leg over the bike to get on it. I just lift a leg and sort of step over.

There is one thing I never do, and that is to put the bike on the side stand and then step on a peg to swing a leg over. “Why is that?” you ask.

Well once upon a time Ruffian, my airhead, and I were on a ferry bound for Newfoundland. The ferry folks required riders to strap their bike to the decking which was done by throwing a strap over the seat and cinching it down. Now it would be one thing if the bike was on the center stand, but NOOOOO. I’m loaded

BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

up DC 10-heavy with camping gear and more, and to get the bike on the center stand I would have had to unload it. Leaving the bike on the side stand was the first of my two mistakes. The second was letting the crew strap it down.

These mistakes led to a bent side stand.

Now I’ve done a lot of things on the cheap to make my bikes just right. For example, while others have ZUMOs, I have a fairly recent but not the latest factory-serviced NUVI with free traffic support, and they can get a little wet without harm even if they can’t talk to your COM system. You get the point.

Need a clock right where you can see it?

No problem. Go to amazon.com and find a big-faced, made in China, plastic-cased watch for $10. Use mini-bungees to strap it facing you on top of your tank bag. In the old days rather than pay BMW for something labeled BMW, I would source filters and such from the car parts bins. I live for the moments requiring innovation, and that bent side stand had me innovating.

Surely you are now asking, “Aren’t BMW’s current side stands bend proof?” About 10 years ago a dealer I knew was dead earnest on that point. He had sold a bike to a female rider, a woman who could get her toes down once she was on the bike but was unable to “pull a Dave” and simply step over the seat. I watched him show her how to get on the bike with the bike on the side by stepping on the peg and mounting the beast. I gagged.

Not wanting to interfere with the delivery process I later asked him if that was wise.

“No problem, Dave,” he said, “BMW fixed that weak side stand issue long ago.”

Still, I’ve never mounted a bike that way and never again strapped it down to a ferry deck while on the side stand.

Ideas once old can be new again, and here we are in 2018. It is the year I’ve been cursed and beset upon by my friendship with the evil Jerry Runk. So why would it be a surprise me that hanging with Jerry magically stresses out my side stand? His evil is everywhere. “How is this possible?” you ask. I have no idea, but if that dealer is right and BMW has fixed the problem, what other explanation can there be except perhaps that the new BMW “normal” appears bent to me. Let’s bring you up to speed.

There I am mulling over the fact that folks have put road routes on the internet suggesting that it is possible to hit all 48 states in X number of days. I am hooked. I note that it makes a huge difference where you start, if we change this puzzle to “hit a majority of U.S. states” in Y number of days.

Now I am not willing to spend more than four days doing more than 1,000 miles per day, and I do not want to make it easy by starting in New England, so I announce that this cannot be done in Y days without spending four days busting my, err, buttisimo. Jerry produces a three-day route. The devil brought to earth as a man produces what I thought was impossible.

“Jerry, how did you do that?” I ask. His reply, “Well, Dave, I just started doodling on a map.” I hate Jerry Runk.

We need to pick a time to pull this off.

The only dates available on all our calendars (Yes, we sucked in Peter, AKA Old Blood and Guts) was Labor Day weekend.

So, what the heck, let’s make it even easier and do this on the most heavily traveled weekend of the year. I soon set about tweak-

ing this route.

We ended up with a route that would be a stretch for regular riders, but do-able for the more hardcore long-distance riders.

The route would not leave me beat up, since I knew that the ride would end on the East Coast.

What trashes me is not the ride itself, but sleep management during the ride. I refuse to get sleep deprived, and Jerry genuinely survives just fine on five hours a night. If anything proves he is the Devil made flesh, surely that factoid does.

I made it clear to the guys that I was going to get at least X hours of sleep a night irrespective of when we arrived at the hotel each night. Apart from the sleep you lose time checking in to hotels, eating breakfast, etc. means each new day starts later than the previous day to where on the last day we might literally be starting at 11 a.m. local time since we might not be arriving until three in the morning. The other guys were okay with this but understood that if they were ready to go and I was not, they should just take off, and I’d catch up.

The last day was planned as the shortest mileage day just for this reason. We hoped to park it by midnight that day, making for an “easy” day for Dave to get home early.

That did not happen. We got to Atlanta on the heaviest traffic day of the year with I-85 to Charlotte down to one lane due to construction and a traffic accident.

Never again will I attempt this feat on a holiday weekend if it involves that metro.

This route put us so far behind schedule I suggested that maybe we ought to give up.

We did not. But it was, I confess, a Mad Max sort of fun. It included a headlong dash to make up time and get to Hagerstown, Maryland, at the decent hour of 2 a.m. Oh, the memories.

I will forever reprise our arrival in Memphis the day before in the middle of the night looking for gas and a receipt as we

wanted to prove we had pulled this off.

Finding a two-pump convenience store off the interstate, I realized I needed to take action.

I put the bike on the side stand with the pavement around the bike slightly down and away, meaning the bike listed left. I was beat, and simply sitting on the bike and pulling it back upright was suddenly real work. Once I was aware that it was work, it became even more work for the rest of the trip, and as we got more beat up going through Atlanta and beyond I was not in the mood to have more work. For the rest of the trip at every gas or food stop, I started making sure that the concrete pad by the pump or that asphalt parking lot spot was level. What to do?

As noted, what was old is new again.

Back in the day, I purchased a hockey puck.

Then, I drilled the foot of the side stand, drilled holes in the puck and bolted that bad boy up to create an instant side stand extender and a big foot at the same time!

For the “modern” boxer this got even easier.

I had already purchased a bolt-on, do-dad “big foot.” If you Google “BMW Large Side Stand Foot” you will see this premiumpriced gizmo.

Well now, there I am at my dealer getting tires and an oil change. I bitch about the side stand and have this epiphany: on the spot, I order a bag of pucks and set them to arrive at the dealer.

All the dealer has to do is find longer gizmo bolts and then drill the puck and bolt this bad boy back together. Total success. I pick the bike up. The dealer walks over to move it from the shop to the outside and marvels over how light it now feels moving it off the side stand.

I have survived the evil Jerry, and the experience has me pucked again.

See you and your bent bike down the road.

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

85

www.m4motorcycles.com

lifestyl lifestyl 86

Another gathering of the tribe

34th Annual Bavarian Mountain Weekend in the Land of Enchantment

By Marina Ackerson #36679 SIPAPU, NEW MEXICO: A “KIVA” IS

a subterranean chamber used by the Pueblos for religious and political ceremonies and served as the symbolic place of origin of the tribe. At the center of this chamber was often a small, bowl-shaped hole representing the portal through which the Hopi’s ancestors entered into the real world called ‘sipapu.” What better word for a ski lodge perched at 7,000 feet in the Sangre Cristo mountains, and what better place for the 34th Annual Bavarian Mountain Weekend in the Land of Enchantment?

I left from Albuquerque early Friday morning and took the “low road” to Taos, skirting around Santa Fe and then traveling along the Rio Grande, land of Georgia O’Keeffe, to the small town of Dixon then east to the 518 and Sipapu. The 518 is a rider’s dream road: two-lane curving blacktop threading through some of the highest and most scenic peaks in New Mexico.

Once I arrived, I set up my tent across the stream from the lodge, had some lunch, and then volunteered to help register riders as they streamed in. Rally Central is at the lodge where there is inside and outside picnic table seating, and its café is open all day, featuring food, a full bar, and fun bartenders. What a wonderful mystical, picturesque spot for our “tribe” to gather!

The rally fee included two dinners.

Friday night featured the famous green chili stew, and Saturday, a catered German cuisine. For our musical entertainment, the Watermelon Mountain Jug Band played Friday night on the patio of the lodge, kicking it out with great rock and roll

BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

tunes we all could relate to! Saturday night brought Chris Dracup, who plays for bluessoul singer Hillary Smith. Everyone was having such a good time, he played on through the night.

During the day Saturday, Voni (the 1.1 Million Mile Lady in Red) and Paul Glaves came the 45 miles from their tree house summer home in Angel Fire to put on a seminar called “How we fell for the G 310

then to Mora and back. Or, from Eagle Nest, you can head to the once wild and unruly town of Cimarron for lunch at the treasured landmark on the Santa Fe Trail, The St. James Hotel. Cimarron is the end of the mountains, heading east from there is the flatland of the plains.

The weekend was over all too soon. After a delicious breakfast at the lodge, I said goodbye to old and new friends I won’t see

GS” and then showed them off in the parking lot in front of the lodge for everyone to sit on and kick tires.

Day rides out of the Annual Bavarian Mountain Weekend are aplenty. From Sipapu, you can ride to Taos, Questa, around to Red River, Eagle Nest, and back—the enchanted circle. If you still haven’t had enough, you can head south from Eagle Nest through Angel Fire, and

again until next year, dropped my tent, packed up the bike and headed back to Albuquerque via the scenic high road through Truchas, population 548. The F 700 GS just sang a happy, happy tune as I wound my way back under a deep blue sky, to the foothills of the Sandia Mountains, where colorful hot air balloons were rising out of the bowl of Albuquerque.

Life is good.

www.sargentcycle.com

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87

lifestyle 88

jacktheriepe

The gift of the K 75 Magi

By Jack Riepe #116117 NORTH OF TREN-

ton, New Jersey, the Delaware River begins to show its hand at becoming a picturesque waterway of eels and shad. But it is still a river of note where it divides New Hope, Pennsylvania, from Lambertville, New Jersey. Lambertville is a neat little community of period houses and small businesses, with a great hotel (Lambertville House) and a microbrewery (River Horse), astride the Delaware and Raritan Canal.

Across the steel bridge to the west, New Hope, Pennsylvania, is the ideal tourist Mecca with dozens of art galleries, antique stores, specialty shops, craft ice cream, elegant restaurants, and the New Hope and Ivyland Railroad—running both a classic steam engine and a vintage diesel locomotive. On a good day, there’s about ten million people here. The Pennsylvania Canal also runs through the center of town.

This Christmas story begins on a July day in New Hope, where I was taking in the sights with the last woman I will ever love. She was/is a gentle, artistic, blond beauty, with an unassuming nature, incredibly good taste (except for me), and a personal fortune exceeding millions of dollars.

She is not in my life now, as the ether wore off or she regained consciousness; I forget which. But she is the reason I discovered BMW motorcycles and started writing this column. (I suggest you address your complaints directly to her.)

On the fateful day in question, this lady and I found ourselves armed with designer ice cream (two cones = $18.50), peering through the plate

BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

glass window of a specialty gallery, featuring the work of multi-media artists (paintings, sculpture, jewelry and glassware). Her eyes were riveted on a set of wine flutes, crafted in hand-blown colored glass to resemble wildflowers caught in natural poses. They were exquisite.

Now to those unfamiliar with objects d’art priced for sale, the cost of cleverly wrought pieces, faithfully cast from imagination and executed with élan, is inversely proportional to the amount of money a writer makes in a year. Also, the size of the figures on the price tag become smaller and smaller as the cost escalates to match the perceived value of the piece. The price tags on these wine flutes were written in miniature braille.

She looked at these a long time.

I looked at her looking at the wine flutes.

She was a classic, midwestern, Protestant beauty, who spoke in a voice free of regional accent. She grew up on a farm where she ripped the heads off 200 chickens one day, before becoming a multi-media artist in her own right, as comfortable in the Louvré as

she was at the counter of The Waffle House.

I made a mental note of the shop and its address.

Christmas is one of those holidays that creeps up on you like a leopard stalking a wildebeest. One minute it’s two weeks to Halloween, and a second later its chestnuts roasting on an open fire. The chestnuts are usually mine. It is almost impossible to surprise a woman who already has everything, from sports cars to exotic cabins in the woods, to a tricked out Honda Aero Shadow (that looked like a parade float for Elvis Presley impersonators).

Three weeks before Christmas, I developed CGSA (Christmas Gift Surprise Anxiety). Symptoms include that constipated look (common to BMW R bike riders), frequent checking of the wallet, and a sheen of cold sweat. She tried to break the spell by telling me exactly what she wanted: a special drill press to hold a Dremel tool, complete with special attachments for cutting and polishing metal. Part of Christmas joy is unwrapping presents at the foot of the Christmas tree and expressing surprise at the good ones, and feigning joy at getting the bad ones. A good Christmas gift is anything that shows someone caught your mood or a peculiar desire one day. A bad gift is any book with a title like Twelve Steps To Becoming A Better Person By Getting Rid Of All Your Stupid Friends.

I didn’t want to give her a drill press for Christmas, though I ordered it online.

Then, I remembered those wine flutes.

Christmas season was in full swing which meant that New Hope would be decked in lights and wreaths, with its narrow sidewalks choked with people, and with both of its parking spaces occupied. This was a job for a BMW K 75, and “Fireballs” was up to the task. Though the temperature hovered in the high 20s, it had been dry without a snowfall or even a coating of slush thus far.

While the first snowfall of the season often melts quickly in this part of the country,

local communities in Pennsylvania often respond by dropping 12 tons of salt per square foot for the occasion. This is worse than ice as Fireballs has perfect jet-black engine casings, and salt dust would ruin their finish. The streets were free of salt.

My first thought was, “How can I carry a delicate, hand-blown wine flute on a motorcycle?” The answer was, “In one of the side bags.” I popped off the left side-bag and filled it with styrofoam peanuts that had nestled a previous shipment of glass Christmas ornaments. Then I put the bag back on the bike. I stepped into thermal underwear under Dragon jeans, a flannel shirt, my Gerbings heated vest, and my Joe Rocket winter jacket. Gerbings heated nubuck gloves completed my riding gear.

Though it had been two months since I last ran the 1995 K 75, I switched the choke lever to the second position and hit the starter button. There is no choke on the fuel-injected K 75. The lever is simply a throttle advance. A healthy K 75 starts in two seconds, regardless of the temperature or falling precipitation. This one whined like a newlywed at its first taste of 94 octane.

I thought about my route and snicked the bike into gear.

It was a 68-mile ride to New Hope, on a cold, clear winter day. The first blast of 70 mph wind to hit my helmet was an eye opener. I could feel the heat in the Gerbings gloves. Glancing down at the voltmeter, I switched off the high-intensity discharge lights to guarantee the flow of juice to my hands and vest. These gloves would keep my hands warm, but not at the expense of feeling the road and the clutch through the handlebars.

My route had stretches of freeway (one), a rabbit warren of secondary roads, and country lanes that were pretty enough in daylight, but which harbored a conspiracy of deer at dusk. Traffic was thick at several locations, with tourists pulling stupid maneuvers in the vicinity of a “Christmas

Village.” I was tempted to spread holiday joy with a middle finger salute, but I was a man on a mission.

There is something about riding a bike on a freezing cold winter day. You become the exception to the warm weather biker rule. Now GS riders routinely send in shots of slogging through six inches of unplowed snow on logging roads through territory that would daunt a yak…but who cares?

There is something to be said for twisting the throttle all the way around in a windchill factor that would freeze a political speech on a dry road, under a frosted sun.

New Hope was a hopeless madhouse. I sat in traffic for ten minutes, a mile outside town, reveling in the heat that came off the engine and swirled around my legs. I was tight up against the railroad crossing when a steam locomotive screamed through, pulling six cars filled with wide-eyed little kids, their parents, and a waving Santa Claus. I waved back. Then I said, “Screw this,” and lane split across town. I found the gallery. There was no available conventional parking. I bounced the bike onto the sidewalk and hung my helmet off the right side mirror. The gallery was packed.

Who the hell could have this much money to spend on artistic gee-gaws?

All of the wine flutes were sold—except one. It was the tallest and most ungainly of the pieces: an iris. It was $680. I bought it.

“You came here on a motorcycle?” asked the sales person. “Did you come far?”

“From Chicago,” I replied.

She carefully enrobed the wine flute/iris in bubble wrap and put it in a box that was then filled with more styrofoam packing peanuts.

“Can I get this gift wrapped?” I asked.

“That’s $5 more,” she said.

I smiled, regretting I didn’t have a pistol.

I was doing the math in my head, dividing the space in the side-bag by the white gift box. It would be close. I had forgotten about the styrofoam packing peanuts with

which I’d filled the side-bag, and they blew out like snowflakes when I opened it. This was the only litter New Hope has ever had.

The box fit inside the side bag with minimal distortion, and then began the most torturous ride I ever endured. I came to a halt at the first stoplight on Main Street like I was carrying nitro glycerin. It was here I was overtaken by a cloud of styrofoam packing peanuts. I feigned indifference. For the next 68 miles, I swerved around every bump. I planned my stops like bank heists. I accelerated gradually, and was passed by a cigar store Indian riding a BMW R bike.

On Christmas Day, I had the satisfaction of watching her open the box in sheer amazement. She held the wine flute like it was a holy thing, before asking, “What ever possessed you?”

It would be two years later she’d admit to me, “I stared at those wine flutes thinking how beautiful they were, wondering, ‘Who the hell would ever pay $680 for one.’”

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to you all.

Stuck for Stocking stuffers? I recommend two: • Conversations With A Motorcycle — my first book, dark moto humor in its lightest form. ($20 at jackriepe.com) • The EZAir Tire Gauge – Easy to read, a snap to use. ($25 - $40 at BestRestProducts.com) Looking for a more impressive gift package, then give both of my books: • Conversations With A Motorcycle and Motorcycles Speak Louder Than Words. ($40, signed and autographed by the author at jackriepe.com) • The CyclePump — a serious lifetime tool for anyone who uses pneumatic tires. ($115 to $130 at bestrestproducts.com)

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

89

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WHENANDWHERE

Email your event information to editor@bmwmoa.org

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4

5

3

1

Map courtesy of

January 1

01/18/2019 - 01/20/2019

BMW Motorcycle Owners of Northeast Florida 36th Annual Winter Rally Location: Starke, Florida Contact: William Botkin, Co-Rally Chair wfbotkin@comcast.net Start the rally season off right by attending our 36th Annual Winter Rally, “Florida’s Coolest Rally.” Held south of Jacksonville, near Starke, Florida at the beautiful Camp Blanding Joint Training Center. Friday night is our “dogs and brats” dinner with all the trimmings and Saturday is our semi-famous steak dinner. Camping, door prizes, local rides, seminars and much more. Enjoy

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

camping along the shores of beautiful Kingsley Lake, a roaring camp fire (seen from outer space) in the campground and camaraderie with like minded riders.

afternoon and Sunday! We welcome, as always, our BMW community and, starting this year, invite all European and Japanese brands to join us.

April

May

2

04/27/2019 - 04/28/2019

2019 Motorcycle Flea Marjet Motoexpo Pecatonica, Illinois Contact: Earve Brauer or Steve Frank rockbmw2000@yahoo.com 815-962-8911 or 815-761-0048 Calling all motorcycle enthusiasts, motorcycle and accessory dealers, vendors, and private sellers! Huge indoor Motorcycle Flea Market and MotoExpo, open both Saturday

3

05/03/2019 - 05/05/2019

2019 Georgia Mountain Rally

Location: Hiawassee, Georgia Contact: rally@bmwmcoga.org The area offers rewarding twisties, impressive vistas and renowned mountain hospitality. Hiawassee is located just minutes from some of the finest roads in the country, including Deals Gap, the Cherohala Skyway, and the Blue Ridge Parkway. For

Detailed information for all events is available online at: bmwmoa.org

dual-sport riding, there are many great forest roads to suit all skill levels.

4

05/31/2019 - 06/02/2019

Land of Oz Rally

Location: Atchison, Kansas Contact: David Brown 913-526-7230 rally@kcbmwmc.com In Atchison, you will find nearby hotels, many restaurants, haunted houses and more. At Warnock Lake you will find plenty of shaded lake view camping, ADV riding with Giants in Oz, hilly and curvy roads nearby.

June 5

PERU

06/01/2019 - 06/02/2019

Huntington Beach Concours D’Elegance Location: Huntington Beach, California Contact: Michael Moon moonbandito@yahoo.com The 34th Huntington Beach show will feature /2 BMW motorcycles built between ‘55 and ‘69. The event is a bike and car show featuring multiple marques and will benefit the Huntington Beach Central Library/Childrens Resource Center. Music, Food, Bikes and Cars under the trees on the grass and a mile or so from the beach.

September 6

April 29 – May 13, 2019

15-day adventure, starting at $4,640

Call: 866-343-7623 | www.bluerimtours.com www.bluerimtours.com

09/06/2019 - 09/08/2019

49th Annual Wisconsin Dells Rally

Location: Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin Contact: Robert Preuss 262-391-0550 dellsrally@gmail.com We have 450 acres of wooded fun and games with great camping, 300 indoor bunks (available for a small fee), plenty of showers and rest rooms - we even have RV parking!

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

www.motoskiveez.com

93

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BOXERWORKS

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BMW OWNERS NEWS December 2018

advertiserindex Adaptiv Technologies...........................94 Adriatic Moto Tours...............................27 Adventure New Zealand Tours.........23 AeroFlow...................................................32 Aerostich-RiderWearHouse................33 Alaska Leather.........................................32 Alaska Motorcycle Adventures.........90 Ayres Adventures...................................79 Beemer Boneyard..................................94 BeemerShop............................................39 Best Rest Products/Cycle Pump.......33 Bike Log.....................................................19 Bing Agency.............................................19 Blue Rim Tours.........................................93 Bob’s BMW................................................53 Bohn Armor..............................................79 Boxer Works Service..............................94 BullRack.....................................................81 Capital Cycle............................................33 Cardo Systems.........................................27 Clearwater Lights...................................41 Colorado Tourbike Rentals.................39 Continental Tire......................................37 Corbin Pacific...........................................83 Costa Rica BMW Tours..........................45 CruzTools...................................................19

Cyclenutz...................................................39 DMC Sidecars...........................................90 Dubbelju Motorcycle Rentals............94 Edelweiss Bike Travel............................33 EPM Hyper Pro.................................32, 90 Euro Moto Electrics...............................90 Geza Gear..................................................19 Helmet Sun Blocker...............................33 HEX ezCAN...............................................27 Ilium Works...............................................36 IMTBike Tours...................................17, 81 Jack Riepe.................................................90 Kermit Chair Company.........................90 LD Comfort...............................................45 Legal Speeding Enterprises...............33 M4Moto-psa..............................79, 85, 94 MachineartMoto....................................32 Michelin Tire................................................5 MOA Platinum Roadside Assist........69 MOA Member Benefits...................... IBC Morton’s BMW.........................................45 Moto Aventura........................................37 Moto-Bins..................................................17 MotoDiscovery........................................16 Motonation..............................................BC Moto Skiveez...........................................93

Motorcycle Relief Project....................83 Motorrad Elektrik...................................32 Mountain Master Truck Equipment..81 MTA Distributing.......................................IFC Overseas Speedometer.......................32 Palo Alto Speedometer........................90 Parabellum...............................................90 Paradise Motorcycle Tours..................19 Peter Lattman Real Estate...................27 Progressive Insurance.............................9 Redverz......................................................39 Re-Psycle BMW Parts............................81 Rider Magazine........................................93 Rocky Creek Designs............................17 Russel Cycle Products...........................45 Sargent Cycle Products........................87 Stop ‘n Go..................................................33 Suburban Machinery............................23 Touratech..................................................11 Twisted Throttle.......................... 1, 15, 87 Vectolabs...................................................37 Weiser Technik........................................21 Wilbers USA.......................................23, 81 Wolfman Luggage.................................17 Ztechnik.....................................................35

BMW ON (ISSN:1080-5729) (USPS: 735-590) (BMW Owners News) is published monthly by BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Inc., 640 S. Main Street, Suite 201, Greenville, SC 29601. Periodicals postage paid at Pewaukee, Wisconsin and additional mailing offices. Opinions and positions stated in materials/articles herein are those of the authors and not by the fact of publication necessarily those of BMW MOA; publication of advertising material is not an endorsement by BMW MOA of the advertised product or service. The material is presented as information for the reader. BMW MOA does not perform independent research on submitted articles or advertising.

POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO BMW ON, 640 S. Main Street, Suite 201, Greenville, SC 29601 © 2018 by BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Inc. All information furnished herein is provided by and for the members of BMW Motorcycle Owners of America, Inc. Unless otherwise stated, none of the information (including technical material) printed herein necessarily bears endorsement or approval by BMW MOA, BMW NA, the factory or the editors. The editors and publisher cannot be held liable for its accuracy. Printed in the USA. Volume 48, Number 12

December 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS

95

talelight

Sign of another time

The site of Angel’s Ladies, a former brothel located outside Beatty, Nevada, Photo by Mark Janda #198513

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BMW OWNERS NEWS  December 2018

The

Benefits of

Membership

We have lined up some of the best discounts in the industry worth way more than $49 per year. Whether you need product discounts, travel discounts or specialized services, your MOA membership can save you thousands of dollars with our partners.

Product Discounts Franklin Services Direct

Save 8% off published shipping rates.

Heritage Stickers

Members receive 15% discount on entire range of classic model stickers.

25% Off Scala Rider by Cardo

The award winning Scala Rider PACKTALK from Cardo Systems is hands-down the most advanced and versatile motorcycle communication system on the market. Now, BMW MOA members can save 25% on the Scala Rider PACKTALK and other Cardo products. Login to the MOA Member Benefits page to unlock the Cardo Coupon Code and save 25%.

Leisure & Lifestyle Discounts Lenovo

Members save up to 25% on the latest in computing technology.

Message Envy

Offering members $5 off every month when you become a member.

Travel Discounts Hyatt Regency Greenville

Members get a 20% discount off published rates.

Leod Motorcycle Escapes

Members get a free extra night at the arrival destination.

For the complete listing of all member discounts, visit us online at bmwmoa.org/discounts www.bmwmoa.org/discounts

wwwolympiamotosports.com

DECEMBER 2018

www.motonation.com 877.789.4940 | motonation.com

RIDE in STYLE RIDE SAFE PROBUT X-FACTOR JEANS $274

BMW OWNERS NEWS – A PUBLICATION OF THE BMW MOTORCYCLE OWNERS OF AMERICA

DECEMBER 2018 BMW OWNERS NEWS www.bmwmoa.org