BMW Owners News November 2016

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Table of Contents features

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cuba redux, us riders can now legally taste the forbidden fruit

By Christopher P. Baker #126077 Two years have passed since President Obama announced a rapprochement with communist Cuba and 25 years since Christopher Baker began reporting on the endlessly fascinating and eccentric isle of which he now says “possibility hangs in the air like intoxicating aromas of añejo rum.

catching a tradewind to eden

By Deb Gasque #182082 Heeding the words of Mark Twain advising that you’ll be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by those you did, Deb Gasque threw off her bowlines, caught a tradewind, and found her Eden.

destination: dodge city

By Bill Reeve #194988 To enjoy Dodge City, Kansas, as thoroughly as he did, Bill Reeves had to be willing to be a tourist and to enjoy the sights, stories and shows that try to bring back the sordid and lawless time when Dodge was truly the Queen of the Cow Towns.

ON THE COVER: The hills outside Salt Lake City, Utah, site of the 2017 BMW MOA International Rally, come alive with fall color as the seasons change. Photo by Bill Wiegand #180584

the club 4 Owners News Contributors 8 Headlight Impending winter blues, by Bill Wiegand 10 President's Column Happy Thanksgiving, by Wes Fitzer 12 Shiny Side Up What's your Sign, by Ron Davis 14 Picture This Autumn Splendor 16 Rider to Rider Letters from our Members 18 2016 MOA Getaway planner Member tested/ product news 20 Givi Trekker Outback Cases, TomTom Rider 400 GPS, Touratech Aventuro Modular helmet, Weiser Technik Ultrabrights Extreme LED turn signals, Knight Design footpeg lowering kit for the R 1200 RT.

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electronics bags, Gulf South BMW Owners Club helps employees of local BMW Motorrad dealership, BMW launches Airbag Jacket Street Air, Corbin releases saddle and Smuggler combo for R 1200 RT, Giant Loop updates their Great Basin and Coyote saddlebags, WERKS Quiet Ride windshield for R 1200 RT, new MOA Consumer Liaisons named, Carl Reese sets another world record.

discovery 52 Get to know Simon and Lisa Thomas skills 94 Ask a Pro The Science of Turning your Bike, by Lee Parks lifestyle 98 Jack the Riepe Gassing Up with Purpose, by Jack Riepe 100 High Mileage Congratulations MOA High Milers,

by Jim Heberling

102 Mileage Slaves Time to Pack it in, by David Cwi 104 Final Journey Dorothy Szymanski, Robert Warren, Neil Talbert

events 108 When and Where Places to Go and Things to See 111 Advertiser Index 112 Talelight

tech 44 Keep ‘em Flying Riding to Boise, by Matthew Parkhouse 48 Manuals, The Most Important Tool by Wes Fleming

November 2016  BMW OWNERS NEWS

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the club

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CONTRIBUTORS 1 . D ancin’ Dave Cwi is a Life Member of the MOA as well as a Premier Member of the Iron Butt Association. He's owned every series of BMW motorcycle from the /2 to the modern RT, and has burned out his wife, who once loved motorcycling but sold her bikes after two trips with Dave. He pays for his riding addiction via marketing stints, including work in Power Sports. You will see him down the road.

2. Matt Parkhouse acquired his first BMW in 1972, upon his return from Vietnam. He hired on at Doc's BMW of Colorado Springs in 1977. Since then, his life has been a mixture of travel (U.S., Mexico, Europe and North Africa), owning/working in various shops, working as a nurse, and being very involved in his local community. He has owned around fifteen airhead BMWs over the years, but his first bike, a 1972 R75/5, is parked by the front door with 423,000 miles on the odometer.

3. Wes Fleming tried being a rock star for 25 years, but gave all that up to focus on motorcycles. His mother still hasn’t forgiven him. The first new motorcycle he ever bought got run over by a car – with him still in the saddle. He discovered BMWs thanks to a friend in 2001 and has been riding trendy, not-sotrendy and sidecar-equipped BMWs ever since. Wes currently holds down multiple jobs, including motorcycle shop office boy and history professor, and when he’s not helping his teenage daughter with her homework, they’re out somewhere in their sidecar rig.

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

4. In 1999 with a large map taped to their kitchen wall, Simon and Lisa Thomas began to plan a motorcycle journey they believed could safely take them through 122 countries over seven continents and take 18 months to complete. In 2003 they began their journey and 13 years later are still following the same itinerary created from the comfort of their former home.

Learn more about Simon and Lisa Thomas and follow their journey by visiting 2ridetheworld.com 5. A writer of limited ability, Jack Riepe is confined by the absolute truth. Hobbled by arthritis, he types his stories by pounding a shot glass on a keyboard—with his foot, and rumors that he is in the Brazilian Witness Protection Program are only partially true. If you like his column, you’ll love his book, “Conversations With A Motorcycle,” an autobiographical account of his early years on a motorcycle, when women unleashed their passion—on everyone but him. Email jack. riepe@gmail.com for more information.

6. Deb Gasque, also known as “The Fashionista,” has been a licensed motorcyclist for 6 years and has embraced every aspect of the long distance motorcycling lifestyle, including earning a membership into the Iron Butt Association. Deb recently joined the ranks of motojournalism and enjoys sharing her passion for two-wheeled adventures through published articles and her blog page at www.TheFashionistaHasAnIronButt.com.

Winter is spring’s waiting room.

Winter isn’t just for DIY vintage bike projects. It’s also the perfect time to make your modern BMW dream come true. We can help you paint your self-portrait on the blank canvas of a BMW RnineT (now with a scrambler option), build the adventure GS of your dreams, turn a S1000 into a jaw-dropping street fighter, or modify your favorite touring bike into a bespoke long-distance animal crafted for comfort. From appearance to performance, our team of master technicians at MAX BMW Motorcycles can help you customize whatever you ride.

Come see a collection of some of our recent builds at the IMS New York www.maxbmw.com Motorcycle Show December 9-11, 2016. Or get in touch at www.maxbmw.com.

Shifting sand

An image from the portfolio of renowned desert photographer Michael Martin. For the past 25 years, Martin has been riding a BMW GS while documenting the earth’s deserts for a “Desert Planet” project to be presented as a photo book, TV series and as a traveling exhibition.

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November 2016  BMW OWNERS NEWS

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headlight Magazine of the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America MANAGING EDITOR

Bill Wiegand bill@bmwmoa.org

Winter Blues

By Bill Wiegand #180584

ASSOCIATE EDITORS

Ron Davis • Wes Fleming • Joe Tatulli ART DIRECTOR

Karin Halker karin@bmwmoa.org CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

David Cwi • Marven Ewen • Deb Gasque Lee Parks • Matthew Parkhouse Jack Riepe • Shawn Thomas ADVERTISING

Advertising materials, including chartered club rally display advertising, should be sent to our Advertising Office. Please contact Chris Hughes for display rates, sizes and terms.

Chris Hughes chris@bmwmoa.org 11030 North Forker Road, Spokane, WA 99217 509-921-2713 (p) 509-921-2713 (f ) BMW MOTORCYCLE OWNERS OF AMERICA

640 S. Main Street, Ste. 201 Greenville, SC 29601 864-438-0962 (p) 864-250-0038 (f )

Submissions should be sent to the BMW MOA office or editor@bmwmoa.org. Submissions accepted only from current members of the BMW MOA and assume granting of first serial publication rights within and on the BMW MOA website and use in any future compendium of articles. No payments will be made and submissions will not be returned. The BMW MOA reserves the right to refuse, edit or modify submissions.

Opinions and positions stated in materials/articles herein are those of the authors and not by the fact of publication necessarily those of BMW MOA; publication of advertising material is not an endorsement by BMW MOA of the advertised product or service. The material is presented as information for the reader. BMW MOA does not perform independent research on submitted articles or advertising.

Change of address notification and membership inquiries should be made to the BMW MOA office or membership@bmwmoa.org. BMW MOA membership is $40/yr. and includes the BMW Owners News, which is not available separately. Each additional family member is $10 without a subscription.

Canadian members add $12 for postal surcharge.

The BMW MOA and MOA™ are trademarks of the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America.

OUR MISSION

To foster communication and a sense of family among BMW motorcycle enthusiasts

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

IT BEGINS EVERY YEAR JUST AFTER LABOR DAY.

The yellow school bus I’ve not seen since May stops each morning at the corner a couple of doors down the street. Morning air has an invigorating chill I’ve not felt for months, and the setting sun paints the western skies a little earlier each day as busy farmers work to bring in their crops in the quickly fading light.

As long as I can remember, two things I’ve looked forward to each year have been the beginning of a new riding season each spring and the end of the school year every June.

The impending arrival of September brought just the opposite: melancholy feelings toward school getting back in session, falling leaves and putting the bikes away for winter. If we were lucky, sunshine and clear roads might allow for a quick ride before freezing hands and numb feet brought us back trembling to the garage to thaw. No matter how many years pass since these memories were initially imprinted, they come rushing back every September.

When I was younger I only saw the change of seasons as a temporary inconvenience, a disruption I couldn’t control and would have to endure until it was finally behind me. Despite getting older, I still feel the same way regarding the coming winter, with it being nothing more than a nuisance, an annoying season without riding that will eventually come to an end. A season that, with its end, delivers another season of riding.

I guess I’ve always been an optimist and have always looked forward to the promise of the future, knowing it will eventually arrive. Yet, despite the aches and pains of my growing older, I’ve never forced myself to look into the future and envision a time when I can’t ride and the void I will then experience.

Last September I received a letter from longtime MOA member Wayne “Pop” Foster.

Wayne wrote that he had just reread the April Headlight column titled “Get Busy Living.” He said it brought him both happy and sad memories, and that at 93, he’s realized that he’s got to “hang it up.”

Wayne wrote, “I am taking the Oldest Rider awards from my last two Nationals in 2015 and 2016 and bidding farewell to many friends. God has been so good to me, and I have enjoyed so much our wonderful USA and the countless people I have been friends with. I will continue subscribing to ON magazine and enjoying stories and articles until God turns my ‘kill switch.’"

Wayne also said that he’s moved in with his youngest son and family and given his reliable old mare to him, a 1999 R 1100 RT. “At least I can stroke her as I walk past,” he said.

Every once in a while you see, hear or read something that makes you pause and reflect.

Not only did Wayne’s words make me think, so did the untroubled way he said them. Without sadness or bitterness, Wayne has reached a point in his life where he has realized there will be no new riding season next spring. He knows he’s been blessed to have experienced the roads and friends he has shared them with and is happy to begin a new chapter of his life.

I’d like to thank Wayne for writing his letter and making me realize that whatever it is that gets us up each morning, it will someday end and that we should make every waking moment meaningful.

In the words of Shawn Thomas, Ride On!

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BMW Service stands for quality and precision in every detail, with specially trained technicians who use only Original BMW Parts and approved equipment. From oil changes to annual checkups and more, an authorized BMW Motorrad dealer will bring you peace of mind – so you can concentrate on enjoying the ride ahead. Find an authorized BMW Motorrad dealer at bmwmotorcycles.com.

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PRESIDENTSCOLUMN

Happy Thanksgiving BMW MOA OFFICERS

Wes Fitzer, President 918-441-2114; jwfitzer@yahoo.com

By Wes Fitzer # 170126

Jackie Hughes, Vice President 509-928-3261; jhughes@bmwmoa.org Reece Mullins, Secretary 334-470-7770; rangerreece@mac.com Jean Excell, Treasurer 719-650-6215; jeanexcell@bmwmoa.org BMW MOA DIRECTORS

Sam Garst 414-704-7767: guanocave@gmail.com Stan Herman 719-250-4358; hermanhaus1@msn.com Bill Hooykaas 705-329-2683; hooykaas@bmwmoa.org Lisa Malachowsky 925-759-4360; lisa.malachowsky@gmail.com Marc Souliere 613-297-7546; beemer1@sympatico.ca BMW MOA VOLUNTEER STAFF

Steve Brunner, Mileage Contest Coordinator 910-822-4368; steveb@bmwmoa.org Jim Heberling, High Mileage Coordinator 309-530-1951; jheberling@bmwmoa.org David Swider, Ambassador Liaison 415-479-8075; teamkbasa@comcast.net Lee Woodring, Consumer Liaison 770-331-2419; lwoodring@hotmail.com Joe Leung, Consumer Liaison 403-689-9939; joe.leung@bmwmoa.org Greg Feeler, Pat Carol and Brian Burdette 2017 BMW MOA Rally Chairs 2017rallychair@bmwmoa.org BMW MOTORCYCLE OWNERS OF AMERICA

640 640 S. Main Street, Ste. 201 Greenville, SC 29601

Robert C. Aldridge, Executive Director bob@bmwmoa.org Ted Moyer, Director of Membership & Marketing tedm@bmwmoa.org Ken Engelman, Director of Business Development ken@bmwmoa.org Bill Wiegand, BMW Owners News Managing Editor bill@bmwmoa.org Karin Halker, Art Director karin@bmwmoa.org Ray Tubbs, Digital Marketing Manager ray@bmwmoa.org Wes Fleming, Associate Editor Digital wfleming@bmwmoa.org

HOLIDAYS ALWAYS BRING BACK A RUSH OF MEMORIES FROM MY

youth, and Thanksgiving offers some of my most vivid.

As a kid my family always travelled to my grandparent’s farm in southeastern Oklahoma to celebrate Thanksgiving. While there, I usually spent the early mornings and late afternoons hunting deer with my dad and grandfather.

After the morning hunt we would typically come back to the farmhouse for lunch and conversation. Though my grandmother wasn’t a great cook, what she lacked in culinary skill she made up for in the sheer quantity of food she prepared. Needless to say, we never left the table hungry.

After lunch my dad and grandad would usually pass out on the couch, leaving me to entertain myself until the evening hunt. I remember those afternoons to be very long, as I impatiently waited on everyone to wake up from their afternoon slumber. Never one to nap, one year I recall convincing my dad to let me take my trusty Yamaha 125 Enduro to the farm so I could entertain myself while everyone slept off their turkey overload. I don’t think my dad really thought this through. As a father of two myself now, I don’t believe allowing your 10-year-old son to ride his motorcycle around a few hundred acres sounds like a good plan while everyone else takes a nap. Back then, it didn’t take me long to figure out just how much fun it was to use my two-wheeled steed to chase the four-legged steeds around the farm. Let me state this clearly right here, right now: NO FARM ANIMALS were injured in the making of this memory. Sadly, I can’t say the same for my poor, old Yamaha.

You might think horses would be the most “entertaining” to chase, but once they started running through the farm fields and woods, I just couldn’t keep up. The few head of cattle my grandfather kept were different but were so tame they paid me little attention to me as I circled them, throwing dirt and gravel into the air, and they looked at me seemingly like one of their calves bucking and snorting around, probably thinking to themselves, “I wish this noisy thing would just go away.”

Now the mules were a whole different story. While they did run around like the horses they were slow. “Aha, I can outrun these guys,” I thought. That seemed to work until they had enough of my antics and decided to simply hold their ground while facing each other in a defensive circle with their hind quarters aimed outward.

Stupidly, I began doing donuts around them, wringing every bit of power that little 125 had and creating an impressive cloud of dust and debris behind me. My 10-year-old mind quickly learned the exact meaning of the phrase “kick like a mule.” It not only meant a broken rear fender and bent rear wheel and swing arm, but the ability to launch a 10-yearold a good 15 feet into the air.

Though even back then I was safety conscious and faithfully wore my Bell open face helmet, I don't think I was conscious for a good five minutes after returning to earth. I’m sure my dad and grandad had a pretty good idea exactly what happened, despite my typical 10-year-old truth bending. My side of the story went something like, “I dunno dad, I was just riding along, and that crazy mule just kicked me for no reason!”

Here’s to making lifelong memories on your two-wheeled steed which hopefully don’t result in any permanent injuries to either you or any innocent farm animals.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Wes

Lesa Howard, Membership Services lesa@bmwmoa.org Amanda Faraj, Membership Services amanda@bmwmoa.org

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

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No gear can offer complete protection from all situations. Obey all speed and safety laws. Riding and alcohol or other drugs don’t mix.

the club

shinysideup

What's your sign?

By Ron Davis #111820

Much has been written about “the wave.” Do you wave? And just who do you wave to? However, this ongoing discussion only demonstrates the pitiful paucity of hand signals we as riders have in our communal toolbox. Is this the only unspoken communication we, those rendered mute by helmets, face shields, and growling motorbikes, can come up? Obviously we need a new, much more comprehensive vocabulary of hand signals, so I have humbly suggested some possibilities below. You’re welcome.

1.

I’m driving here! Lots of moto safety experts talk about “conspicuity,” and there may be some evidence that it actually makes a difference, but I’m not sure any gesture, short of emulating Ratso Rizzo (Dustin Hoffman) in Midnight Cowboy and pounding on a driver’s hood, will get every driver’s attention.

Would it be over the line to mount one of those white, school bus strobes on top of my helmet?

2.

Seriously?

You’re going to pull out now? I guess this could be simply pointing a finger (your index finger) at any driver about to enter from a side street or driveway, whose zombie-like stare seems to be looking right through you. Frantically waving your left arm, flashing your lights could be enhancers, but I’m not guaranteeing it will make any difference.

Finley Peter Dunne said, “Trust everyone, but cut the cards.” In our case, the second part should be, “but cover your brakes.”

3.

My butt is dead.

Okay, I don’t care what kind of fancy custom seat or seat covering you’ve got— gel, beads, air cushion, a virgin yak pelt—I can’t believe there doesn’t come a time when all riders have to

stop and let their near-deceased derrieres get some relief. My suggested gesture to let your riding pals know of your distress could be pointing at your butt then gingerly patting it. Of course, you could also get up on your pegs and suggestively waggle your rear end around, but let’s face it, no one really wants to see that.

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Warning: watch road for tire snakes, road gators, dead skunk, mattress, water bottle, garbage bag, high heeled shoes, bungee cord, ice chest, muffler pieces, etc.!

Pointing urgently at the pavement to warn riders seems pretty vague when you consider all the drek that we find strewn over the road, but at least it might get your companions to look down. Come to think of it, I forgot to add “shovel” to my list. I once watched one of those bounce out of landscaping crew’s trailer directly in front of me. Fortunately, it cartwheeled into the ditch and didn’t decapitate me. I caught up with the crew at the next stop sign and told them what happened, and the driver actually had the nerve to ask me if I would run one of his guys back to get the shovel, since it would be so inconvenient for him to turn the rig around!

5.

Back off! I have no suggestions for a gesture that politely conveys, “Please, kind sir or madam, GET THE &%# OFF MY BUTT!” without risking road rage (though I can easily think of four or five that certainly would!). Maybe just a single “hands up” motion might express your apology for having the incredible audacity for using the same roadway with someone whose need for that extra five miles per hour I’m sure is a vital matter of national security, even if you’re bound to catch up to him or her at the next light. There is no shame (but probably lots of wisdom) in pulling over at the first opportunity.

6.

Were we all dropped on our heads as children?

Smacking yourself in the forehead could probably convey this question to other riders who have cheerfully chosen to join you on that trip to your “special burger joint” and experience the sublime wonder and delight of riding in rain, hail, wind, fog, and/or 100 degree heat down the wrong turn-off when everyone else in the world is back on their couches munching popcorn and binge-watching Game of Thrones. It better be a good burger.

7.

Speed trap ahead!

I’ve heard there are gestures to let approaching riders and drivers know that they’re headed into the sights of officer friendly’s radar gun. It could be circling one raised index finger to simulate a spinning cop light, but that seems a little anachronistic. How do you simulate a strobing LED? I’ve also heard tapping the top of your helmet is supposed to make oncoming motorists think of those Smokey the Bear hats troopers wear. Either way, you’ve first got to consider the ethical question, “Do I really want to warn them?” What if the oncoming driver is the same guy who was tailgating you yesterday?

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Nice bike! Maybe a sweeping flourish with the left hand and a slight bow, as if you’re saying, “After you.” This gesture would obviously be reserved for BMWs—well, maybe for a Ducati, but only the Multistrada.

9.

I’m begging you, please hang the &$#?@ up and drive! What good is it being a columnist, if you can’t rant about issues your family has now forbidden you from bringing up again?

I’ve become the consummate, crusty curmudgeon when it comes to drivers using cell phones. I mean, seriously, if they’re in a parked car to begin with, why do they wait until they’re entering traffic to make a call? So far, all I’ve come up with is making that little finger and thumb “call me” gesture, but I have a feeling, as far as expressing the true fathomless depth of my loathing, we’re having “a failure to communicate.” They know they’re on the phone. They know it’s illegal. Who do I think I am, anyway?

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Deer Ahead! No ethical dilemma here: Of course I want to alert all oncoming traffic to four-footed kamikazes lurking ahead; no way do I want to carry any more bad karma down the road than usual. Pointing to the side of the road, spreading the fingers of your left hand next to your head to simulate antlers, using the “stop” signal (palm up), to urge them to slow down—at the very least, gestures like those make me feel better.

11.

ature calling. I can think of all kinds of hilarious gestures I N could use that would convey my need to hit the head, none of them approved for family audiences. Much more tasteful: just point at your gas tank, as in “need to stop for gas.” Might as well make it a twofer.

There is a book out there by Baine Kamp, aptly titled Motorcycle Sign Language, not to mention a bunch of websites which attempt to catalogue and suggest ideas for hand signals, but unless there’s universal acceptance, that’s all they remain, just suggestions. I invite our faithful readers to add to my meager list of suggestions—as Joan Rivers used to say, “Can we talk?”

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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Picturethis

We asked our online readers to submit their photos showing

Autumn Splendor 1. A utumn camping in Cherry Springs State Park in north central Pennsylvania.

Terence Hamill #14629 Lansdale, Pennsylvania 2. A long Utah’s Highway 167 near Snowbasin south of Salt Lake City.

John Wetli #195304 Green Bay, Wisconsin 2

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BMW OWNERS NEWS  November 2016

1 5. Marshall Pass in south central Colorado.

Doug Moench #104910 Fort Collins, Colorado

3. Lake Sadawga in southern Vermont.

Minna Case #121097 West Dover, Vermont

6. Riding off the beaten path in Utah.

Matthew Borocz #202699 Fort Collins, Colorado

4. A 1973 R 75/5 photographed near Madison, Wisconsin.

Jeff Dean #115 Tucson, Arizona

For February, our Picture This theme is Twisties. One photo may be submitted per member and the best selected for publication in the BMW Owners News.

Send your high resolution image, image description and member number to editor@bmwmoa.org.

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RIDERTORIDER Send your letters and comments to: editor@bmwmoa.org

Above and Beyond

Sometimes as a society we seem only to focus on the negative side of things and complain. Well, I wanted to share my outstanding customer experiences from two vendors at Das Rally!

First, anyone that was present on Wednesday night experienced the straight line winds which damaged/ destroyed numerous tents, awnings, and displays. Kevin from Redverz graciously replaced any section of a tent pole that bent from the storm. We use a generation one Redverz tent and even though it is way outside of its warranty period, Kevin hooked us up with the two replacement segments to repair our damaged pole.

The second over-the-top vendor experience was with Clearwater Lights. Having a pair of generation one Krista lights that had developed moisture inside the lenses, I took them in to be looked at and hopefully repaired. To my complete surprise, upon picking up my dirty and muddy GSA, it was now sporting a new, bright and shiny pair of generation two Krista’s. It just goes to show that these two vendors demonstrate truly exceptional customer service. A huge Thank You goes out to both of them for the way they support the riding community.

Brian Dutcher #160860 Des Moines, Iowa

Deer encounters

Robert Vanderhoof's “deercident” sounds very much like mine except I don't remember it. An eye witness reported me being hit broadside by a full point stag, and my injuries were more serious. It was definitely ATGATT that saved me, and though all my gear was ruined, I'm back riding as much as I ever did.

I've also had three incidents in cars and innumerable close calls on two and four wheels. I would add that in my

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

experience, once you see a deer after slowing down or stopping, it is useful to lay on the horn as this flushes any additional deer out. Deer usually travel in groups, and I always want to make sure all of them have crossed the road before I continue.

Chip Colwell #100140 Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania

Thanks for the memories

I just reread the April “Headlight” column titled "Get busy living."

It brought happy memories and a sad one. I will be 93 soon, and I must hang it up. I have moved in with my youngest son and family and given my reliable old mare to him, a 1999 R 1100 RT. At least I can stroke her as I walk past. I am taking the Oldest Rider awards from my last two Nationals in 2015 and 2016 and bidding farewell to many friends.

God has been so good to me, and I have enjoyed so much our wonderful USA and the countless people I have been friends with.

I will continue subscribing to ON magazine and enjoying stories and articles until God turns my "kill switch."

So long to many friends, and I wish for them to ride as many roads as I have while the happy miles eased by.

Wayne [Pop] Foster #36757 Nixa, Missouri

What an experience

Being a recent MOA member (2 years), I decided this year was the time and location to attend the MOA National Rally in Hamburg. While there, I thought it best that I continue to invest in annual Rider Training and based on the training organizations represented at the rally, signed up for "Street Masters,” a half day of slow

speed control and instruction in delayed apex cornering techniques.

Although I was late arriving to Hamburg due to a family friend’s unexpected funeral, Street Masters squeezed me into an alternative schedule for the training session. Wow, certainly accommodating customer service and not what I expected.

Not only that, at the end of the half-day training session, which, by the way was really first class instruction and highly beneficial to improving on road riding skills, I was pleasantly surprised to be presented with a check from the MOA Foundation for the full half-day training fees I had paid to register—what a deal is that!

I’ve read about the MOA Foundation’s commitment to rider training and funding of rider skill improvement, but I always thought that, as a Canadian, this was likely to be an arduous cross-border paperwork reimbursement process. In reality, it was without paperwork, seamless and completely unexpected! Truly another huge value add for MOA membership.

My entire MOA experience at the Hamburg Rally was extraordinary, with great training, seminars, vendors, entertainment and camaraderie among BMW riders and as unbelievable as it may seem, among the 6,100 plus attendees at the rally, out of the blue, I also ran into a past BMW rider acquaintance. How cool was that?

I cannot say enough about the MOA organization, the National Rally execution and operations. This Canadian hails to the MOA, eh!

Malcolm Ward #197448 Stouffville, Ontario

Bent wheel misery

I've been riding 45 years with almost 300,000 miles ridden and had never bent a rim until July, 2016. Also on my “Never List” was owning a BMW and completely

wasting a set of tires in less than 8,000 miles.

On June 12, 2015, that changed when I purchased my shiny new R 1200 RT, which I both love and hate. While I love the ride, handling, etc., I hate the vibrations, klunky transmission, loud exhaust and the fact that BMW does not warranty their wheels.

I've been to two BMW dealers and have been told the same story: "We get a lot of bent wheels, three or four waiting to be fixed right now."

DUH! What's going on and for how long? I'd like to know, please. If a wheel is not safe for American highways, why is it on a motorcycle? Anyone out there feel the same way?

Matt Forsberg #204317 Ledyard, Connecticut

Hats off to Jack

I simply have to say it again. If anyone ever questions whether to continue with their MOA membership, reading Jack Riepe’s articles will have you renewing for another 10 years! Excellent...very good humor.

Denis Gosselin #205317 Holland Landing, Ontario

Backorder hell

I am a lifetime member of the BMW MOA, but I am finding it harder and harder to stay riding BMWs due to parts for my '94 K 1100 LT becoming scarce or non-existent.

Two years ago it took six months to get a part for the fairing after an accident, so no summer or fall riding then. Now I need an ignition/light switch.

I have been told by a few dealers that there aren't any new ones to be found in the U.S. and that the back order is at least 150 names long. However, there is no date on when BMW or their contracted part manufacturer is going to start production to fill this back order. So with summer here and the BMW factory beginning to shut down for their summer vacation, any hope for this part and riding this summer or fall is gone as well. With any luck, the part may show up by next spring but by that time I will probably be riding a different manufacturer.

Why does BMW allow these types of

parts shortages if they want us to ride their bikes? Or are they just into selling them and then expecting us to throw them away and buy a new one when it breaks? So does anyone know where I can find a good switch (part #61322305292) for my dead in the water BMW? Gary Harkins #67071 Albany, Oregon

Reconsider the RT

Dear Thomas, After reading your article in the Owners News, referencing my article on the evolution of the BMW RT, I thought I should respond. Your reference to a number of rear drive failures is certainly of concern.

After all my miles on RTs, I have yet to experience the failures you have described. I believe most rear drive failures are the result of the following: 1. Worn out stock shock. 2. Overloading of the motorcycle. 3. Lack of regular rear end maintenance. 4. Riding at very low RPM and/or on-off-on idle as babying the bike actually causes the rear end splines to wear out prematurely.

From the start, I felt the stock BMW suspensions were too soft, so I installed Ohlins front and rear on my 1996 R 100 RT and the again on my 2002 and 2004 R 1150 RTs and then Wilbers-ESA suspension on my 2012 RT. I made it part of my 6k services to change the rear drive oil on all these bikes, even though the standard service recommendation is 12k.

All of these bikes were ridden hard, two-up and heavily loaded but serviced religiously.

In addition to my RTs, I’ve also owned several R 1200 GSes and GSAs. I updated the suspensions of these bikes as well and followed the same maintenance schedule I described and never had a rear drive failure.

I would love to hear how you addressed these issues as they relate to your experience with the RT. As an example, many Honda ownersriders often comment that they test rode a BMW, but found it had no power.

They typically lug the motor well below 3k RPM. While the typical inline four is able to pull away at this low rpm, BMW

twins are best at 4k RPM and above and need RPMs to produce the same kind of performance. I have ridden the Honda ST, both the early 1100 and the later model 1300, and my experience has been they are heavy, produced a lot of heat, and didn't handle nearly as well as my RTs. I would love to ride with you sometime on your favorite roads so we can test these theories out on each of these bikes.

I hope you will give BMW’s RT one more chance – you might be surprised.

Steve Hall #79776 Las Vegas, Nevada

Thank you

I recently attended the Top O’ The Rockies rally in Paonia, Colorado, where after checking in, was told to put my dinner ticket in my wallet so I would have it for the Saturday dinner. I did as told and placed it where I would see it as I opened my wallet.

On returning from a day ride, I couldn’t find my wallet. It wasn’t anywhere and must have fallen out of my pocket somewhere between Delta and Paonia as I had stopped for fuel in Delta. I made the trip back to Delta following my exact route and scanning the highway all the way. No wallet.

About that time, I got a call from a friend I had been riding with saying my wallet had been found. My friends attending the awards ceremony heard an announcement saying a wallet had been found and turned in to security after it was found on the highway and my dinner ticket was spotted. My friends convinced security to give it to them since I was out looking for my wallet.

I didn’t get a name of who turned it in, but I would like to thank them. All the contents of the wallet were in place, exactly as I had last seen it. It made my camping experience much better knowing I was surrounded by honest caring people, one of which stopped on a busy highway to retrieve a wallet and see that it was returned to its owner.

Randy Earle #111068 McKinney, Texas

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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2016 MOA Getaway

S

everal years ago, the MOA Getaway idea was introduced to provide a smaller event where members and friends could gather at great locations all over North America. The events are designed to be smaller than a traditional rally setting and are typically hotel based with no need to pack your ThermaRest and tent. Because MOA Getaway events are typically designed for approximately 100 attendees, they are sure to sell out.

We have a fantastic line up for 2016 already and are working to add more.

Visit bmwmoa.org and click on the Events tab for details and registration information. See you soon at an MOA Getaway!

s, Texas Marble Fallr 18-20

Novembe ot for 2016 and new sp n This is a ne! Set in ce

great o looks like a to explore ere is a lot th s a x Te l a tr ricksburg, earby Frede n g in d lu c in er nearby h and oth c a b n e k c u L terest. points of in

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Win a Life Membership!

A BMW MOA Life Membership will be given away to one lucky winner at every Getaway and every member at the Getaway will have a chance win our Grand, Grand Prize..... a Beach's Alpine Sampler Tour valued at $4,910!

Ride Well.

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www.motorcycle-travel.net

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www.parabellum.com

www.bmwusa.com/pds November 2016  BMW OWNERS NEWS

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member teste 20

PRoductreviews

Givi Trekker Outback cases

By Christopher P Baker #126077 DROPPING MY BIKE ON THE FREEWAY WAS THE LAST

straw!

I was cooking through the desert as I headed home from the 2015 MOA International Rally when a trucker’s air-horn signaled my pannier lid had blown loose. I slowed and pulled onto the shoulder. Not a good idea on an interstate’s sweeping downhill curve. The camber was so steep that my 1200 GSA stood almost vertical on its side-stand. Cautiously I dismounted and moved around to the rear.

As I peered into the pannier to assess what items the slipstream had flung to the Gods, an 18-wheeler thundered past in the near lane. The air-pressure wave hit the BMW like a Tyson punch. The bike teetered, then hit the deck like Michael Spinks.

After a good deal of swearing, I heaved the bike up. The damage report wasn’t good. The box was badly dented, the lid hinge buckled, and the lid itself was twisted where it had clipped the freeway guardrail. At least now I had a matching pannier pair, the other case lid having flipped open at highspeed the year before. My fault—as it was this time, too—due to my own inattentiveness in securing the latch.

“Damn it! I need cans with lids that open at the rear,” I mused, as I wrestled the lid into place. I secured the case with a bungee, and roared off… still swearing.

BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

When the 2016 MOA rally came around, it was time to go shopping. After perusing the adventure touring options, I decided on a full set of aesthetically pleasing, high-capacity Givi Trekker Outbacks. I liked their brawny looks and their heavy-duty construction. The solid steel twin ammo-can handles atop each case earned bonus points. Plus, the Outbacks, which Givi introduced in 2014 as their first foray into aluminum boxes, are available in silver aluminum or matte black. Black is beautiful! When Givi rep Gary Adreon demo-ed the revolutionary Monokey snap-on system (see below), I was sold.

When the four boxes arrived, I eagerly dug out my toolkit and notepad and went to work. The necessary nuts, bolts, washers, and clamps were delivered sealed in polythene pouches, and the wellillustrated flyer instructions were precise and easy to follow. (Complete fitting instructions are featured on Givi’s website—www. giviusa.com—if you somehow lose the flyers that come inside the cases.)

Let’s begin with the top case. Following the instructions, I first replaced four existing rubber bushings with taller plugs to each corner of a powder-coated aluminum Monokey plate that affixes by bolts to either side and to the rear of the pillion seat. The bushings serve to cushion the case. Firming the case in place requires mating two reinforced “female” grooves on the base of the case with twin

metal studs to the fore of the plate. Slot and slide! Easy! Then, to latch the case to the plate you simply pull down on the rear of the case. This forces a “female” latch system over a male equivalent built into the plate; its pyramidal shape triggers the spring-loaded latch mechanism. Voila!

Except… No matter how much force I used to pull down on the case, it wouldn’t “clack” into position. I pulled down. I pushed down.

I even grabbed the two handles and swung at the back of the bike like a monkey aping beneath a branch. No luck! Then I finally figured that the replacement bushings were too high. I reverted to the original plugs and… “CLACK!” Why, I wondered, do the Givi instructions say to change the bushings?

The beauty of the sophisticated Monokey system became apparent when I unlocked the latch to remove the case. I inserted the key in the lock and turned it to horizontal. This unlocks the stainless steel lid hasp. It also frees a levered trigger beneath the lock. Monokey? Twoin-one! I pulled the powder-coated aluminum lever barely a quarter of an inch and the plate latch popped open and freed the case. The whole mechanism felt solid, yet fluid. The two-inch-wide levered lid hasp also felt altogether more secure and thoughtfully designed than the less precise and somewhat cruder case hasp system on my original stock BMW adventure cases. Its motion was seamless and stable. A waterproof and dustproof cover fit snugly over the top case key-lock.

Nice! (Unfortunately, the side panniers lack these handy covers.)

Now to the side panniers. As with other systems, Outback cases affix to mounting racks that bolt onto the sides of the bike. Fitting them proved easy. (Note: If you’re upgrading to Outbacks from Givi’s earlier rack systems, you’ll need to upgrade to the PL Cam series racks.) Each black powder-coated, tubular steel frame attaches to the BMW chassis with two steel-reinforced clamps (one affixes to the rear footrest support, the second to the upper chassis) plus a bolt that inserts into an existing bolt hole in the pillion sub-frame. Each of the racks then bolts via extenders to a heavy duty, metal box-style unit, which then bolts into the bottom of the pillion sub-frame. An angled connector bar also bolts to the left and right frames at the rear, adding extra rigidity. With this, not even a charging rhino could bend the finished rack rig out of shape.

The Givi cases are two inches longer than the stock BMW adventure cases (19.5 inches versus 17.5 inches). This whopping margin proved problematic: The connector bar makes no allowance for the side reflectors built into the license plate fixture on the 2009 1200 GSA model. As the metal extensions that house the reflector plastics are part of the license plate unit, the fixture is in the way of the connector bar!

I dismantled the fixture to get the bar and support frames to meet.

With the bar bolted in place, I slid the license plate fixture between the bar and fixture housing then levered it forward so that I could screw in the fixture, then the license plate. The reflector extensions now pressed hard against the bar. It felt wrong, like Gabourey Sidibe squeezing into tight jeans. Still, it was done. However, the

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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longer-than-stock Givi cases obscure the reflectors from being seen sideon. (I’m big on being visible to other motorists, and side reflectors are hugely in my mind. Givi sells a set of optional silver reflector stick-ons designed to fit to the oblique case corners. I prefer bright red and yellow, and already had some spare prismatic safety stickers; I used those on the top case.)

Fitting the side cases to the rack was a no-brainer. As with the top case, “female” grooves at the base of the case slide onto two male metal studs protruding from the base of the frame. The case then pivots up to mate with the die-cast aluminum “Monokey Cam-Side” spring-loaded latches already firmly secured to the mounting racks. They snapped briskly into position. A red indicator shows if the case isn’t seated properly in the mount. Green? You’re good to go!

In fact, the whole kit was a snap to assemble. The roll-bar handles facilitated maneuvering the cases on and off the bike with ease. And unlatching and removing the cases was child’s play. Again, the key in horizontal position unlocks both the case lid and the Monokey lever beneath the keylock. You then simply pull on the lever-trigger, which wraps around the case to the latches. Hey presto! The Monokey latches snap free. The cases lifted off effortlessly. What a great system! Off in not even five seconds! No more bear-wrestling with the stock cases!

Givi—based in Brecia, Italy— claims that the Monokey case-mounts system is super resistant to impacts. I don’t intend to find out. A full set of three cases can be “single-keyed.” You request this be done in-house prior to shipping. And be sure to order your side cases with locks to the rear. The Givi website clearly shows that the cases can be ordered with locks facing forward or to the rear. If you buy the former, your cases will slope forward

BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

and your lids open rearward. Tilted like that, the lids don’t open far enough to stay open; the rubber tether straps are too short to permit the lid to reach vertical. Plus, the first time you forget to secure the locks and hit the freeway, your lids will be prone to flip open. Be sure to order a 37 liter product #OBK37BLA for the left (exhaust) side case with lock facing the rear. Vice versa for the 49 liter (product #OBK48BRA).

Installation of the entire rig had taken me a little over one hour, and everything exuded a precision-machined quality. The 3/16-inch (1.5 mm) die-cut aluminum cases have riveted “technopolymer” reinforcements in and out. These hide the weld joints. And not just at the corners, which add great scuff protection. Technopolymer inlays also run along the inside of the cases between the riveted corners. The gasketed

rubber-seal in the lids features a raised lip and moat-like groove all-around, promising great protection against dust and rain.

Givi USA advertises that the Outbacks are “waterproof;” since I live in the California desert, for now I’ll take the company at its word. Plus, all three cases feature tie-down points to each corner to secure dry packs and other luggage.

Best of all, the twin Outback panniers provide a humongous 86 liters capacity, perfect for long-distance adventure touring.

That’s three liters more than my BMW originals, thanks to the Outback’s more generous dimensions. The plump right-side Givi (49 liters) is 12 inches wide (versus 11 inches for the stock BMW case). It’s so vast, each time I open the lid I fear falling in! And my helmet sank into the cavernous 42-liter top case, with plenty of room for a soft jacket to

fold around it. As a professional photographer, I figure on using the case mainly to house my camera gear, so the built-in sponge mat for cushioning is a big bonus to help minimize camera shake. Note: If you fit the wider 58 liter top case (large enough to hold two helmets), you’ll need to remove the pannier lids, which otherwise can’t be opened. Fortunately, removing the lids takes only seconds. You simply press a lever in the center of the lid hinge and the lid pops free. Very handy!

Each pannier extends an equal distance out from the BMW’s center line, offering perfect symmetry when viewed from the rear. Nonetheless, the cases themselves are asymmetrical. At 9.6-inches wide, the 37-liter left-side pannier is narrower than its sibling to take into account the exhaust pipe, and thus lacks the overhang above the pipe that’s an admirable feature of the stock BMW case. Being narrower at the top, it offers less of a platform for dry-packs or tripods, etc. (Fortunately, my Kriega Drypacks will fit, but I need to be careful to ensure that the plastic ties don’t dangle onto the pipes.) Given the asymmetry, I loaded the smaller left case with a heavy tool kit and emergency repair gear. Lighter gear can fill the bulkier right-sider to help keep the bike nicely balanced.

The Trekker Outback set comes with some cool optional extras, including waterproof liners, 2.5-liter jerry-can with holder, elastic netting that affixes to the inside of the lids (perfect for storing small items), and a handsome backrest pad to stop the top case hinges from digging into a pillion rider’s back. My girlfriend will sure appreciate that.

All in all, I’m very impressed. The Givi Trekker Outbacks strike me as near-perfect adventure cases. Next week, I’m hitting the Baja California trail for some serious offroading. I feel confident they’ll hold up to some rough treatment. And if my moron mind forgets to secure the hasps, I no longer have to fear my lids flipping open and Baja’s coromuel wind flinging the contents to Ehecatotonli, the Mexican god of the breezes.

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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TomTom Rider 400 GPS

By Norton Rubenstein # 95745 THIS

YEAR,

HOLLAND-BASED

TomTom is seeking a larger share of the U.S. motorcycle market by way of its new (in the U.S.) TomTom Rider 400, and I was sent a loner unit (software version 16.1) to review. Since Garmin’s ZUMO models are the dominant Global Positioning System (GPS receiver) for BMW motorcyclists in the United States, and I’ve been using Garmin GPS products on my motorcycles since 2003 and have compared some of their in-common features.

Smartphones can do much the same things, but unlike a standalone GPS, they stream maps in real time which, on a long trip, can drain your data plan or quit if you're out of cellular coverage. Moreover, while smartphones have better screen definition, standalones have better GPS receivers

BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

and offer more navigation options. The primary purpose for owning a GPS is for guidance to a destination. All GPSes do that, and they all do it in much the same way.

The important differences are in personal likes and dislikes of the design, purpose, and execution of their features; of course, better, or not as good as, is, again, a personal perception.

The unit I received came with a sturdy, internally fused RAM U-bolt handlebar mounting bracket with fastening accessories, quick detach two-conductor, weatherproof coupler cable with enough wire to attach either directly to the bike’s battery or a switched source, a USB-2 GPS-to-computer coupling cable, and a short QuickStart pamphlet. The owner’s manual, apparently written for the EU market, is available on-line, downloadable as a .pdf file. Numerous optional accessories are available through many Internet venues.

The unit is said to be waterproof (IPX7); I didn’t experience any leaking or screen problems through several rainy rides, but I’m aware of complaints that rain caused aberrant screen changes, perhaps due to its very touch-sensitive nature.

Positioning and attaching the mounting

bracket to the bike depends on available space on and conformation of your handlebar. Once the mount is in place, the GPS attaches to the mounting bracket with a positive click and demounts with a press of a glove-friendly top-tab. Once on, the GPS can then be rotated to either landscape or portrait positions and held firmly in place by detents in the mount. A lock kit option is available which blocks access to the RAM tightening knob.

The glove friendly 4.3 inch capacitive touchscreen (480 x 272) does swiping and pinch-to-zoom, and, as noted, is very touch-sensitive. The screen is easy to read in optimum conditions, but in bright sunlight the screen is almost unreadable while riding. Some of the on-screen buttons are a bit small and crowded for gloved fingers.

The Rider 400 has an effective lane-assist feature, shows speed limit and speeding warning on-screen, and the usual information assists for finding gas stations, preferred restaurants, and hospitals. It accepts a microSD card for uploaded routes and tracks. Firmware and map updates (U.S. Canada, and Mexico) are available at no charge for the life of the unit. The internal battery is said to last six hours; I found that to be optimistic, but it’s unlikely to be used for much time off the bike in any case.

Before getting into features, it’s worth noting that, for motorcyclists, the chief benefit of a GPS is having audio directions to helmet speakers or earbuds allowing the rider to concentrate on the road ahead without glancing at a tank bag map or the GPS screen. As experienced riders know, anytime a rider’s attention shifts from the road ahead, even for that infamous split-second, realtime control of the bike is reduced, and that’s a poten-

tially serious risk.

The TomTom Rider 400 uses current Bluetooth connections to your smartphone, headset, and, if needed, to network with TomTom services. During my unit set-up, the GPS was immediately aware of my smartphone (Samsung S6) and helmet communication set (N-COM B4+); the handshaking in both cases was very quick, with visual confirmation on the GPS unit.

Hands-free calling is available, if you have Bluetooth audio feed to helmet speakers. If you don’t, the Rider 400 lacks an audio output (3.5mm earbud socket) which precludes the hands-free and audio direction features when riding. The TomTom recommended way to answer an incoming call is to tap the on-screen button. I prefer to use an external button on my helmet’s N-COM© system which allows me to keep eyes on the road, and it worked flawlessly. TomTom’s recommendation for ending or rejecting an incoming call, is, again, by tapping an onscreen button. I avoid on-screen buttoning when riding; in any case, the call is automatically dropped when the calling party disconnects.

The trip screen, what TomTom calls The Guidance View, has the usual navigation buttons, and the sequence of travel choices is clear and easy to follow, but, as noted, they are a bit small and crowded for gloved fingers. The initial setup choices are many and, following the owner’s manual, I found at times a bit confusing.

One feature I really liked was the ease in searching for an address or point of interest.

The unit’s huge store of location data intuits as you key in characters and anticipates choices, which makes the job faster and easier. Voice guidance instructions (i.e., upcoming turns, lane position, etc.) are clearly spoken. I had no trouble understanding the instructions and found them similar to the Garmin approach. However, check the Rider 400 headset list; not all may be compatible for all TomTom Bluetooth functions.

Screen brightness/contrast can be changed depending on daytime conditions.

Time and date are set automatically, but the user has the usual sets of options for lan-

guage, measured units, etc.

My loaner came with lifetime map updates (U.S., Canada, and Mexico). Road and direction changes uploaded by other TomTom users are also periodically available from the TomTom site through its Map Share Technology©. The unit can show traffic conditions along the destination route if your smartphone is partnered with the GPS using the TomTom Personal Area Network (PAN©) like a Hot Spot. To use TomTom services you must agree to send information to TomTom in Holland, so I never used features that required it. The Rider 400 also came with what are called

Once the mount is in place, the GPS attaches to the mounting bracket with a positive click and demounts with a press of a glove friendly tab.

speed cameras; apparently the EU uses traffic cameras for more than red-light violators as we do here in the states, and I also did not use this. My Garmin has the traffic transponder as part of the power cabling, and all functions are automatic and transparent. One possibly important difference between the ZUMO and Rider 400 is TomTom won’t let you upload third-party maps, which can make a difference if special function or other country maps are required.

Like the ZUMO, once a destination is set, the TomTom Rider 400 shows a choice of options for the sort of ride you’d like to your destination. You’re in a rush? It’ll get you there by fastest route. Want to ride in cool mountain air? It’ll ask if you want low, medium, or high elevations. Are you a

novice rider, or are you a competent rider and feeling frisky? It’ll offer you three levels of what it calls “Windiness,” from the least curvy through sweepers and twisties. All of that is done by tapping on-screen options before setting out on a trip. I found that feature worked well. Of course, there’s the usual option to select stops along the way, plan a route on the unit, or import one from the computer. For computer jockeys, TomTom recognizes two different formats: GPX (GPS exchange format) and ITN© (TomTom’s proprietary Itinerary format). Routes can be created either directly on the Rider 400, or on MyDrive©, TomTom’s computer mapping program, and downloaded to the GPS. The Rider 400 records tracks which can be shared with others using a tool called Tyre Pro© or MyDrive© (both downloadable), and keeps the usual trip stats with the usual clear all-or-some functions. My Routes© provides a relatively easy way to save and retrieve routes and tracks. Routes can be imported, too, but not exported from your device. You can export tracks as GPX files to a Bluetooth enabled device for sharing with other users. I found Garmin’s BaseCamp© and MapSource© programs were easier to plan routing for downloading to the GPS or just browsing a map.

The TomTom Rider 400 is a multi-featured, motorcycle ready GPS at a comparatively bargain price, but experienced Garmin users will probably have to spend some time in the Rider 400 user’s manual and on the device going through all the features and options learning how to set up personal preferences. It lists for $499.99, but is widely available at stores and on-line for less than $450.00. More information is available from TomTom (www.tomtom. com). The owner’s manual is downloadable and shows prospective buyers available features and how they are implemented. During my evaluation of the Rider 400, I tried several times to contact the TomTom marketing department using their internal communication systems to answer questions and confirm some of my findings, but never received a reply.

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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A modular helmet with an off-road pedigree

By Reid Dalland #69187 THE TOURATECH AVENTURO MOD

Helmet is Touratech's new Adventure Helmet. It combines the best features of a modular touring helmet with those of an off-road, dual sport helmet. The Touratech Aventuro Mod Helmet is made in partnership with Schuberth and is based on the Schuberth E1 (both of which are based on the Schuberth C3). While the Touratech Aventuro Mod Helmet is based on the E1, it has a number of differences. The Touratech Aventuro Mod has a different paint scheme, a goggle strap holder, a generally more aggressive appearance and most importantly, two additional vent ports on the rear of the helmet for increased

BMW OWNERS NEWS  November 2016

airflow. The Touratech Aventuro Mod Helmet is loaded with all of the features of the Schuberth C3, but adds significant venting through the chin vents, and a peak visor that can be set in three different positions.

I've been riding with Schuberth modular helmets since 1996. I never liked the confined feeling of full face helmets, so when I heard about the modular BMW system helmets, with the flip up chin piece, I was intrigued. Unfortunately they were not available in the U.S. at that time, and those riders that had them were going to great lengths to acquire them. I purchased my first modular, a BMW System III, while on a business trip in Italy. I have owned three more Schuberth helmets, now that they are available in the U.S. I also own an Arai XD3 Dual Sport Helmet. While it is a full face

helmet, the dual sport features (chin venting and the peak visor) are really appreciated when riding off pavement. I really hate having to choose one or the other when I am going for a ride. Whichever helmet I chose for the ride, I was missing features of the other helmet. When I heard about the Schuberth E1 and the Touratech Aventuro Mod, true "Adventure Helmets," I knew it was time for a new helmet for me. I could now have the best of both worlds.

The high quality of the materials and finish of this helmet are what you would expect from a partnership of Touratech and Schuberth. This is also reflected in the price, $829 in black, $889 with color graphics. I am surprised each time I put the helmet on by how comfortable it is to wear.

The helmet fits snuggly, and my head feels like it is being held. While it weighs the same as my other helmets, it does not feel as heavy because of how it fits, the weight seemingly distributed more evenly around my head.

I've been riding with the Touratech Aventuro Mod Helmet for a few months, in a variety of conditions, and overall I am very impressed with every aspect of this helmet.

In fact I've probably put off writing this review, hoping some negative would surface with continued use of the helmet, since I generally don't like reviews that have nothing negative to say about the product; to me they sound more like an advertisement than a review.

The venting through the helmet is quite substantial. The chin vent has three positions. Just above the chin vent is another vent which directs air across the inside of the face shield, and there is a three position vent on the top of the helmet. I find that the helmet becomes slightly noisier as you open the chin and face shield vents; this makes sense given the amount of air

moving through the vent. All helmets can get hot when the wearer is sitting still or moving slowly. I really appreciate how quickly the Touratech Aventuro Mod vents once you get moving; the hot stale air is gone quickly.

The ability to adjust the peak visor is a great feature of this helmet. The peak visor rotates back with the chin bar when you open the helmet, and returns to the same position when you close it. There are times when you are riding into the sun that you want the peak visor in the lowest position—think lowering the brim of a baseball cap to shield your eyes. Then, when you don't need it that low, adjust it to a higher position. The peak visor and adjustment mechanisms feel a bit flimsy compared to the fixed peak visor of my dual sport helmet. Initially I was concerned, but they are holding up fine, and I am careful with them. The peak can be adjusted while moving using one hand if you wish. Release the locking mechanisms one at a time on each side, then adjust the peak visor position (it clicks into place at each location) and reset the locking mechanisms. I find that the face shield does not open completely when the peak visor is in the lowest position (the peak visor restricts the shield movement). While it impedes vision slightly, it is not really an issue, just something I notice. There also seems to be less venting through the helmet when the peak visor is in its lowest position. Once the peak is moved to the center position, the venting is restored. I have ridden with the helmet with the peak on, and with it removed. Removing the peak converts the helmet into a "touring" helmet (with chin venting). Most of my riding these days is to multi-day events where I will spend some amount of time off pavement. I usually spend anywhere from a couple of hours to a full day of highway riding to get to an event. I am hardly aware of the peak at highway speeds, so I leave it on.

The face shield of the Touratech Aventuro Mod is optically clear and fog free with the attached anti-fog insert that is made by Schuberth. The edges of the antifog insert are noticeable peripherally while

The chin strap locking mechanism.

The three position vent on the top of the helmet.

November 2016  BMW OWNERS NEWS

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looking through the shield but are not in the field of vision. The face shield has four positions (stops) that it "clicks" into to provide additional venting into the helmet when needed.

One position is called the "city" position. If you are riding behind a touring windshield these open visor positions will be appreciated. The chin bar release works easily when opening the chin bar, and the chin bar locks securely when it is closed. I find that when opening the chin bar, it opens most easily if the face shield is in the "closed" position. I have developed the habit of closing the face shield before opening the chin bar. There is an internal sun visor, which is also optically clear and which is controlled with a sliding mechanism on the side of the helmet.

I don't use it that often, but it is handy to have when you need it.

I have spent many hours riding in the rain with the Touratech Aventuro Mod, ranging from a light drizzle to torrential downpours. In my experience the helmet has been watertight after two hours of heavy rain while riding a combination of back roads and two lane highways, at a variety of speeds. The anti-fog insert worked surprisingly well. While wearing helmets without an anti-fog insert in the rain I always felt like I was aiming where I wanted to go. This was because of the limited visibility due to a combination of the fogged face shield and heavy rain hitting it. The anti-fog insert keeps the inside of the shield fog free, a quick wipe with the squeegee on the finger of my riding glove and the face shield is perfectly clear. It is a whole new world for me when riding in the rain to actually be able to see where I am going. While the anti-fog insert itself stays fog free, I have noticed an accumulation of moisture above the insert, though it is well outside of the field of vision.

The conditions when riding off pavement (gravel and dirt roads, and

BMW OWNERS NEWS  November 2016

off road) can become quite dusty, especially when riding with a group (if you are stuck in the middle or worse, last). The chin vent of the Touratech Aventuro Mod has a sponge filter to help trap any dust or dirt from entering the helmet (it is removable for cleaning). I have spent many days riding in the dust of others, and as long as I

kept the face shield closed I was not aware of breathing any dust. I took the helmet apart after a couple days of riding in dusty conditions to see how much dust, if any, had accumulated inside the helmet. I found a light dusting of fine dirt on the drop down, internal sun visor. I also found light accumulation in the top vent and in the

peak visor mechanism. I used Qtips to clean the dust out. Access to these areas is very simple; each of the parts just pop off and are easily replaced. If you are riding dusty conditions all the time you may want to clean these areas; otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it.

The Touratech Aventuro Mod has an integrated wire antenna which adds range to bluetooth communication devices and FM radio. The connection plug is easily accessed when the liner of the helmet is removed. While the helmet has a built in strap holder for goggles, I was unable to find goggles locally that fit inside the helmet. Touratech does offer goggles on their website (https://shop.touratech.com.sg/ touratech-aventuro-mod-goggles-withtouratech-strap-black.html). The COOLMAX™ and Thermocool™ liner materials keep the inside of the helmet comfortable, and if they get wet at all, they dry out quickly. If you wear glasses, there are cutaways in the lining that allow glasses to be put on easily. I have no trouble putting on my sunglasses or readers when necessary. I really like the speed lock cam fastener on the chin strap. It is easy to set and adjust the tension of the strap, as well as release it to remove the helmet, even with gloves on.

Overall, I am very satisfied and impressed with the Touratech Aventuro Mod helmet. I haven't crash tested it, so no feedback there, but I really enjoy riding with it. It is comfortable all day, for days in a row. It is quiet (I do wear earplugs while riding), convenient, and everything functions as it should. I am regularly surprised at how well thought out each feature of this helmet is. It seems that any time I have an issue, there is an adjustment that can be made, or a feature brought into use to make the ride more comfortable. If you are in the market for a new helmet, and not deterred by the cost, I highly recommend the Touratech Aventuro Mod Helmet.

The Touratech Aventuro Mod Helmet is available from Touratech USA (touratechusa.com/Store/Touratech-Aventuro-ModHelmet). The retail price is $829 for solid color, $899 for color graphics.

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Weiser Technik Ultrabrights Extreme LED turn signals

By Chris Hughes #33373 LIGHTING IS VERY IMPORTANT TO

BMW riders. We like more lighting up front for night time riding, additional lights for daytime riding and of course more in the back for both taillights and extra bright brake lights.

But, how often do we think about our turn signal lights?

Historically most BMW motorcycles have had nice bright turn signals that incorporate the automotive industry standard 21 watt bulb. However, I noticed as I was riding in front of my wife on her F 800 GT, her front turn signals did not contrast well with the headlight—they just did not stand out.

When I removed one of the turn signal lenses I was surprised to find a 10 watt bulb (apparently this is becoming standard as I discovered the same on my Ducati Monster).

Additionally I found the retainer pins on the base of the bulb to be offset rather than opposite each other, eliminating the ability to install a brighter bulb of higher wattage.

Since I was very aware of the advantages of LED lighting (more lumens with less amperage draw) I started looking for an LED bulb that would replace the original 10 watt bulb.

That’s when I found Weiser Technik (www.weisertechnik.com).

Weiser offers a direct replacement LED system that is not just a bulb but is a replacement for both the bulb and reflector. Each replacement unit incorporates from 12 to 20 separate amber LED’s, depending on the model, and according to their application chart they cover more than 30 different BMW motorcycles from 2000 through 2016. I ordered the

BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

Ultrabrights Extreme for the 2013 F 800 GT. The units are sold in pairs, and they arrived in secure packaging that included easy to follow instructions. Installation is very basic and not much more demanding than replacing a bulb. You remove the turn signal lens, reflector and bulb and then insert a “locking key” inside the housing.

Attach the wires to the LED assembly (making sure the brown wire goes to the negative terminal), insert the assembly into the housing and re-install the lens. After installing one unit on the rear, I put the 4-way flasher on to compare the lights and was truly impressed with the difference. I then rolled the bike out into the daylight to take

the some photos, and while it is not a scientific comparison,it sure impressed me.

Weiser developed their Ultrabrights Extreme line in 2015 as an updated version of their Ultrabrights Original+, and they say the Extreme line is “virtually four times brighter” than the Original line. So, to fill out the lighting on your BMW, don’t forget the turn signals and consider the Weiser Technik Ultrabrights Extreme LED turn signals for that task.

The Weiser LED turn signals are available for BMW plus most popular European brands. You can obtain more information from their website or by calling (831) 7134365.

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Knight Design footpeg lowering kit

By Tom Murphy #208880 KNIGHT DESIGN, A COMPANY

located in Corvallis, Oregon, manufactures a lowered foot peg set for BMW and other motorcycles. After recently purchasing a 2013 BMW R 1200 RT with fewer than 5,000 miles on the odometer, I decided to swap the factory pegs for a lower set.

I contacted Knight Design and they provided me with a set of black anodized Sidetrax tread front pegs which came in a left-right pair with new springs and new mounting pins.

The new pegs allow a 1.75 inch drop from stock, allowing my legs to straighten out just enough to give me a more comfortable ride.

Installation was easy and took less time to install both of them than it took to write this article. Both the shift and brake levers can be adjusted to fit your boot by means of a rod behind the footpeg plate. Despite the drop in peg height, I didn’t feel the need to adjust either.

Check the accompanying photos for a step-by-step guide for installation, and for more information, visit Knight Design at knightdesignllc. com.

Top to bottom: Here’s what comes in the kit. Right and left pegs, two new pins, two springs, and two cotter pins.

Remove the factory pegs.

The old peg comes off by removing a small circlip from the pin; then drift the pin out of the frame. None of these parts will be reused.

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

Insert the cotter pin, bend the end and you’re done. The right side installs the same way.

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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The left footpeg has to be held in position while the return spring is inserted inside the peg holes. This is the only part that is a bit tricky. It helps if you have more than six fingers on each hand, but it can be accomplished with normal hands.

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The Ultimate Riding Machine™

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WERKS Quiet Ride windshields for the 2014 and later BMW R 1200 RT have been designed and tested by a BMW owner and rider.

Conceived and developed after testing other aftermarket offerings that didn't meet expectations, the WERKS windshields designers spent countless hours and more than 2,000 miles of development and testing to find the right shape with the best aerodynamic manners. The windshield has been created with a top edge below the rider’s line of sight while still providing much calmer and quieter airflow around the rider with significantly reduced passenger noise and turbulence.

WERKS developers believe they’ve created the best performing windshield available for the new R 1200 RT. For more information and pricing, contact Terry Hinkle via email at info@werksparts.com or by phone at 281-851-8636.

Giant Loop saddlebag updates

Giant Loop recently redesigned its horseshoe-shaped motorcycle saddlebags, producing a limited preview release of the new Great Basin Saddlebag Roll Top and Coyote Saddlebag Roll Top. Both models feature a convenient rolling closure that seals out water and dust while maintaining the bags’ packability.

Additional improvements include molded rubber grab handles that double as side compression straps and an included set of three RF-welded waterproof inner liner Saddlebag Dry Pods with air purge valves and drains in the bottoms of the saddlebag's “legs” to allow water to escape.

The initial limited production bags comes in black only and are available exclusively at Giant Loop's showroom/warehouse in Bend, Oregon and online at GiantLoopMoto.com until the full production begins in 2017. Great Basin Saddlebag Roll Top retails for $450 and includes a set of three waterproof Saddlebag Dry Pods and one Hot Springs Heat Shield exhaust protector. Coyote Saddlebag Roll Top retails for $360 and includes a set of three waterproof Saddlebag Dry Pods and one Hot Springs Heat Shield exhaust protector.

Baton Rouge flood relief

At their September monthly meeting, the Gulf South BMW Owners Club decided to make a difference by raising $2,000 to help four employees of BMW of Baton Rouge who suffered significant loss because of the historic floods that recently ravaged the area.

In addition to the monetary donation, several club members also pitched in to help remove debris in the area.

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

Should anyone wish to make a donation to help with the recovery, please contact: Gulf South BMW Owners Club c/o Larry D. Terrell 14405 S. Lakeshore Drive Covington, LA 70435 985-966-1583

Aerostich electronics cases

Corbin saddle and Smuggler trunk for RTs

For a solo seat look and additional storage, Corbin offers the Smuggler trunk as option for the BMW R 1200 RT. Locking onto your bike in place of the passenger seat, Corbin's Smuggler trunk comes painted to coordinate with your stock paint with a black texture body and color matched door and provides 12 liters of capacity to stow daily essentials conveniently and securely while the ergonomics of the front saddle creates a perch providing long range, touring comfort.

The saddle uses Corbin’s high-density Comfort Cell foam, allowing them to build a supportive saddle (without a bulky shape) with a seat bucket designed to emulate the shape of your body to give support for longer range. This neutral seating helps to curb sliding in the saddle and rider fatigue.

The front saddle and Smuggler Trunk carries an MSRP of $1,293 without heat and $1,393 with heat. For more information, visit corbin.com.

Until now Aerostich padded computer and laptop sleeves were available only in silvergray. These new limited edition cases are bright blue or hi-viz and are made with tough, abrasion-resistant nylon fabric outside, a soft brushed fleece inside and a 0.2 inch layer of flexible, lightweight impact foam material laminated between.

Soft but not floppy, the cases hold their shape when empty to make it easier to insert and removing your computer/tablet/e-reader.

The sleeves provide better protection when tossing your computer or tablet into a messenger bag, backpack, pannier box, saddle bag or bungeed-on-the-saddle drybag.

For more information, visit aerostich.com

BMW Motorrad launches Street Air Dry

BMW Motorrad recently announced the release of their new BMW Motorrad Street Air by Alpinestars, an advanced airbag system offering comprehensive upper body protection for both on- and off-road riding.

The technology, adopted from the current Alpinestars Tech-Air® street airbag system, utilizes a sophisticated algorithm that detects imminent danger and inflates the full upper body airbag to provide a highly effective crash protection system and offers instantaneous inflatable upper body protection to the back, kidneys, chest and shoulders. It is also fully independent, incorporating its sensors close to the rider’s or passenger’s body, meaning the airbag activates without the need for a triggering wireless signal to be sent from the bike.

This jacket is the first safety product to be launched under an exclusive agreement between BMW Motorrad and Alpinestars, and is available for both female and male customers in different colors as of October 2016.

For more information and pricing information, visit your local BMW Motorrad dealer.

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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news

Carl Reese sets another World Record PROFESSIONAL

ENDURANCE

driver Carl Reese #206507 of Santa Clarita, California, and Sebastian Montero of Quito, Ecuador, recently set a new world record for riding on motorcycles from the closest point on Earth to the sun to an elevation at sealevel in a single day.

Ecuador is the only place on earth where Reese and Montero’s world record could be accomplished, as the country is home to Chimborazo, the highest mountain in Ecuador. While Chimborazo (20,548 ft) is not the highest mountain by elevation above sea level, its location along the equatorial bulge makes its summit the closest point on Earth’s surface to the sun. Soft-spoken and self-effacing, yet utterly focused, 47-year-old Reese took his quest to the highest echelons of the Ecuadorian government to gain permission to scale Chimborazo on two wheels.

Reese and Montero set a record that's not likely to be repeated anytime soon; Chimborazo, the highest mountain in the country, is off-limits to motorcycles.

Quite rightly so, in case of a crash or break down, help isn't likely to arrive anytime soon.

Minister Serrano granted Reese and his team special access to Chimborazo and the duo travelled from the closest point on Earth to the sun to the finish line at Canoa Beach Hotel, a location in Ecuador located at sea level. The two motorcyclists reached a gain/ loss in elevation of 56,678 feet during their endeavor.

Before daybreak, the recordsetting team rallied at Gas Motors in Cumbayá (Quito) where Minister Serrano presided over the attempt’s

BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

opening ceremonies. With the street lined for two blocks with uniformed officers, a marching band played as Reese and Montero were led by a national police motorcade to the starting line atop Chimborazo.

Twelve hours before the planned departure, disaster struck when Reese became ill and severely dehydrated.

“Turning back was not an option, if I can stand I will ride” said Reese. “I would have pushed the motorcycle the last 85 miles if I needed to.”

Reese and Montero embarked on this record-setting ride to bring awareness to the Coalition of Hope Foundation’s efforts to rebuild Ecuador after the devastating 7.8 magnitude earthquake this past April. On a tour, led by Minister Serrano’s staff, Reese witnessed and learned about the heartbreaking aftermath of the earthquake, including the loss of over 650 lives and 26,000 homes.

“Seeing the destruction that the earthquake caused was an emotionally overwhelming experience,” says Reese. “The challenge of setting endurance records is

nothing compared to what the people of this region have had to endure during this rebuilding process. All the people from Ecuador who I have talked to have managed to stay positive despite the grief surrounding them and that is truly inspiring.”

In addition to bringing attention to the Ecuadorian earthquake victims in need, this record attempt was an effort to increase awareness of the Motorcycle Relief Project, a 501.3(c) charity that provides relief to combat veterans with post-traumatic stress disorder and other injuries. Reese and his fiancée, Deena Mastracci, have set multiple transcontinental records to bring awareness to the Motorcycle Relief Project.

As in his previous world record attempts, Reese carried an American flag given to him by retired veteran and friend, SFC Rod Hawk, for good luck. The flag originally flew in Iraq and was presented to Hawk for his accomplishments during the war. Reese, who has also served in the Army, said “I carry the flag as a reminder of the Motorcycle Relief Project, a major reason why I set these endurance records.”

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MOA Consumer Liaisons named ONE OF THE LESSER-KNOWN BENEFITS

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the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America offers its members is the MOA’s Consumer Liaison. The Consumer Liaison is Key Volunteer position created to assist any member in the resolution of disagreements between buyers and sellers of products and services advertised in BMW Owners News, including the purchasing and servicing of new and used BMW motorcycles from BMW retailers and private individuals.

Over the years the MOA Consumer Liaison has served as a mediator helping countless members reach solutions to disputes they’ve not been able to settle on their own.

Describing the work he did during his six-year tenure as MOA Consumer Liaison, Jim Wright of Tyron, North Carolina, said “solutions ranged from significant, including assisting a member to get a complex mechanical issue solved to less significant, like simply listening and making a recommendation to a member they could use to solve an issue.”

According to Wright, sometimes all that was involved was getting two parties to talk to one another, while other times a degree of persistence was necessary to get one side or the other to open their minds and try to solve an issue.

“I enjoyed helping members solve problems, sometimes with a degree of creativity,” Wright said.

The position, vacant since Wright resigned last spring, has now been filled with two MOA members. Lee Woodring #75540 of Atlanta, Georgia and Joe Leung #196408 of Calgary, Alberta, have recently been appointed by the BMW MOA Board of Directors.

Joe Leung began riding mini-bikes when

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

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he was 10 years old and progressed through several Japanese bikes before buying his first BMW, an F 800 R, in 2014. Soon after, he joined the MOA and has since attended MOA rallies, completed all three levels of the MSF courses and then continued his rider training at RawHyde in California.

Joe says he’s looking forward to the purchase of a new R 1200 GS soon and exploring the trails and unpaved roads around the world.

Professionally, Leung’s work is centered in the financial arena with experience in risk management, investment portfolio management, financial reporting and tax analysis for the corporate banking, private investment, oil and gas and utilities industries.

Leung’s volunteer experience includes membership in his local Junior Chamber International, where he ascended to become the organization’s president. Additional volunteer experience includes serving as a mentor in the Kids Now program and as an ambassador at the Eau Claire YMCA. Lee Woodring has been a BMW MOA member since 2004 and currently rides a 2016 R 1200 GS Adventure, which he enjoys for its Swiss Army knife ability to do just about everything well and its upright and comfortable ride that fits his 6’3” frame so well.

Woodring describes himself as a lifelong motorcycle rider who has ridden a variety of manufacturers while experiencing several riding styles including off-road adventure touring to superbike road racing.

Lee says his bike of choice throughout his riding history “has always been and will always be a BMW.” To contact Joe or Lee, email the MOA Consumer Liaison at consumerliaison@ bmwmoa.org.

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Riding to Boise

By Matthew Parkhouse #13272 “National 9.” Rooms run in the mid-$50 range, which these days counts as “cheap.”

Susanna and I rode The next morning, we took off and headed up to spend a few for Salt Lake City. Once you drop out of the days with her folks Wasatch Mountains at Spanish Fork, you in Boise, Idaho. It’s are on I-15 for 90 plus urban freeway miles a trip of a little over running from Ogden to Salt Lake City and 950 miles each way, then Provo. Keep this in mind as you ride to and we usually do it next year’s national rally. in two days, staying at a nice econWe missed the worst omy motel in Price, of rush hour, so it was Utah. Five days before fast moving, even with we departed, we held the congestion. After a our annual “bothcouple hours of that, we birthdays-and-ourconnected with I-84, anniversary” party. which took us the rest of One of the guests was the way to Boise (speed a fellow who had come limit 80). Susanna’s down from the Denver mom is 91 and her father area to collect his “new is 95. They are in their to him” R 100 S from own home, and her me (the bike has been mom still drives, but mentioned in a previthey are starting to have ous column). I couldn’t problems keeping up be happier to see the with the house and bike go to a fellow Airother things. I expect head like him. After a we’ll be up there fairly couple of hours, he often in the near future. rode off, followed by The two-day ride was his wife in their car.

I’m now, via email, Loaded and ready to leave for Boise. Since we knew the motel we'd be using at the half-way uneventful, with almost perfect weather. This providing a bit of help point, we didn't carry any camping gear. was Susanna’s first serias he tears into a Slash ous outing on her bike in a couple of years, in-stock new part from BMW ($110). The Five he also owns. and she was a bit hesitant. I’m glad I was side parts are available as well (at $351 a set).

Both of our bikes were pretty much able to talk her into doing this trip!

Sized to fit any long wheel base (LWB) airready to go to Boise. I mounted a new The return trip went equally well. It was head from 1973 to 1984, they come in front tire on Susanna’s R 100/7, hot, though. One unusual event was the chrome (costs a bit more) or the matt black changed some fluids and then sudden appearance of a large dust-devil/ which I prefer. checked over the pair of airheads. My small tornado that covered both lanes of the We loaded up and took off. We rode 5-speed gearbox that I added a kickInterstate in northern Utah. It was a swirlaround Denver on C470, through the start to was swapped out and the ing column, packed with tumbleweeds for a Rocky Mountains and a bit beyond Green original four-speed box went back in. couple hundred feet straight up. We had no River, Utah, turning north on Route 6 to After close to a year of running, I’ll choice but to ride through it. No real harm Price, Utah. As we make this at least twice a call the gear box good. I FINALLY occurred, but I did get bashed in the nose year, we have settled into this route, either completed my bag mount system on by wind-carried tumbleweed and was pickby car or motorcycle (the rest of the time we my Slash Five by adding the rear tail ing bits and twigs of straw out of crevices on fly). We like a particular motel in Price, a piece. This additional part is made to IN

44

BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

AUGUST,

bolt onto the two side mounted bag carriers. In the final design, these carriers formed a three piece system. Susanna has a similar system, but it is the earlier all-onepiece version. I wanted to have the option of unbolting the parts to allow for easier extrication of the rear wheel for flat repair and tire changing. I found the later model side mounts on eBay; the rear tail piece is a still-

the bike for a couple of miles. Not too far south of that, we stopped at the Smith & Edwards Surplus Store. It’s a big place, with acres of “stuff ” out behind. It’s an odd mix of country store, sporting goods, army surplus and clothing. If you’re not in a hurry to get to the Salt Lake City rally and are coming from the south, it is worth a look over.

We stop by there once in a while on our trips to Boise.

We overnighted at the same motel on the way back. The next morning, I took the time to quickly set the valves on my Slash Five. My idle had gone away which is often a sign of closed-up valves. Once the covers were off, I found the valves to be tight but not “closed up.” A few minutes later, we were running for home. The trip through the mountains was pleasant, but as we started out on the last hundred miles, we pulled off into the rest area in Georgetown, Colorado. Susanna’s bike died on the exit ramp a hundred feet short of the parking lot. She pushed it in, and I went to work. I had collected just about ALL of the parts and tools I carry on a trip into a heavy bag that goes over the rear seat, so I was pretty sure I could repair the problem, whatever it might be. Her bike had no dash lights showing, so I knew it was a power problem. I put the 100/7 on the center stand, pulled the tank and started with my test lamp. First check was across the battery. Good, we have a strong battery. I couldn’t see any wiring problems, so I pulled the headlight and applied the test lamp to the red wires. Nothing. No power at the switch or any of the red wires. Red, in the BMW code, means “straight-to-the-battery.” I now knew that the fault was somewhere between the headlamp and the battery. It took a few minutes for it to occur to me that this is a 1978 BMW. The ‘78s, for some reason of design, tend to have electrical issues at the starter relay.

When I started digging into that area, Susanna reported the dash lights would flash on briefly. By unfastening the starter and horn relay mounts, I could see that one of the red wires going into the starter relay had broken due to corrosion. I had several sets of jumper wires in the bag so I started cutting into the insulation and tying three

Some early morning valve setting. After running about 1400 miles at speed in hot weather, the valves closed up enough to affect the idle. Things were fine for the last day of the trip.

I'm applying a test lamp to locate the source of "no power" for Susanna's bike. The problem proved to be due to a weak point in the 1978 bikes' wiring - corrosion at the starter relay.

It runs! The repair was a matter of connecting three red wires together. Once this was done, power could flow to the headlamp bucket and the rest of the bike. The four relays, front to back, are the horn, starter and the the headlamp relays I added to the bikes' circuits. At this point, I reinstalled the relay mounts and taped up the jumper wire connections for the last 100 miles of our ride.

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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TEC

keepemflying

red wires together. Once they were connected together in this fashion, the lights came on and stayed on. I replaced the relays and mounts, covered the jumper wires with first aid tape (which was out because I had inflicted a pretty good cut on one of my fingers cutting into the wires) and replaced the tank. The delay fixing the problem took perhaps an hour or so, which had us pulling into our yard, in a light drizzle, right after dark. The next day, I checked Susanna’s valves and did a proper fix of the red wires under the tank.

We are getting ready for the last rally of the year for us, the Bavarian Mountain Rally, outside of Taos, New

Mexico. It is late enough in the year that it’ll very likely be a cold ride in the mountains, and my back no longer can tolerate riding in cold temperatures, so, we’ll go by car, carrying food and drink for our group from the local club. After this weekend, the next ride will hopefully be a several week tour of the Southwest this winter as we are giving riding to Mexico a break.

Susanna’s comments: It is true that I hadn’t been riding much in the past couple of years prior to this trip. Don’t exactly know why. Mind games? Perhaps. An occasional trip to the local club meetings seemed to be about it. Therefore, my brain was a bit hesitant to be taking the trip to Boise. I told Matthew as much (he seemed to have complete confidence in my abilities.) However,

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

once we took off and I got my bearings (within a very short time), I remembered. I know how to ride a motorcycle. All the knowledge was still with me. I was, of course, especially alert since I was a bit rusty, but as the miles rolled by the smile was on my face. I won’t let so much time go by again and was actually the one suggesting we ride to the Bavarian Mountain Rally, outside of Taos, put on by the Land of Enchantment BMW Riders this past weekend. I remembered how much I love to ride.

It’s been 25 years now, and every one of those years (even the low-mileage ones) has been exciting. I am looking forward to the trip through the Southwest this winter.

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The most important tool:

MANUALS

By Wes Fleming #87301 WHEN THEY FIRST CAME INTO

existence, motorcycles were fantastically complicated and not at all standardized. Some shifted on the left, some on the right. Some shifted with the foot, some with the hand. One hand grip was the throttle, the other advanced and retarded the ignition’s timing. Controlling all that and keeping the bike upright required the same presence of mind and coordination of a singing drummer, with the added challenge of keeping the kit balanced on two spindly tires.

With the surge of Japanese motorcycles in the 1960s and ‘70s, motorcycles became simpler (in general) and started moving to standardization. In 1975, the U.S. government mandated our current setup with the toe shifter on the left and the rear brake on the right, and Triumph and Harley-Davidson (the last major manufacturers to make bikes any other way) ceased production of right-shift bikes.

The standardization of controls led to an explosion of motorcycle ownership around the world, and in the next 30 years, millions of people rode millions of motorcycles for millions of miles. There were incremental improvements, of course, but it wasn’t until the 1980s that BMW started pushing the envelope with fuel injection and anti-lock brakes. While motorcycle manufacturers have always been engaged in culture wars,

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

the 1990s and early 2000s saw the builders gear up their technology wars.

Many motorcycles currently being produced are as complicated as fighter planes.

It’s easy to look at BMW as the leader in this arena, with intelligent linked ABS that works with the bike leaned over in a curve, lights that follow the turn, and suspension components that monitor the ride quality and adjust to conditions multiple times a

second, but the fact is that many other manufacturers, including KTM, Ducati and Harley-Davidson, are pushing the technology envelope just as vigorously as our favorite builder.

As motorcycles have become more complicated, it seems as if the toolkits included with new motorcycles have gotten simplistic to the point of minimalism. Pictured is the entire toolkit for a brand-new S 1000 RR. This new series, titled “The Most Important Tool,” is geared toward helping motorcycle owners who are interested in working on their own motorcycles on any level

discover, obtain, maintain and understand a number of tools that will enable them to better service their motorcycles. Maybe you’re the kind of rider that relies on a credit card as your primary toolkit, and maybe you’re the kind of rider that dreams of breaking out a 917-piece toolkit on the side of a cracked, abandoned stretch of pavement in a thunderstorm. Either way or anywhere in between, this column should at least get you thinking about the tools you keep in your garage or on your bike.

The first installment then is about something that’s not often considered a tool; but if you can hold it in your hands and it helps you accomplish a task, it’s a tool, so here we go. This month’s most important tool: MANUALS. When you buy a new BMW motorcycle, it comes with two booklets and a quick-start sheet.

The Rider’s Manual features diagrams and definitions, as well as basic instructions on how to operate the motorcycle. It’s important for the new owner to study this manual, because the technological level of these new bikes is so high that it’s easy to have no idea about half the stuff a new motorcycle can do! Yes, it’s simple enough to sit there and twist that, but having a basic understanding of the motorcycle’s functional capabilities is part and parcel of safely operating the vehicle.

The little booklets BMW includes with a new bike only cover the operation of the motorcycle, however. When it comes to technical information, the rider has to go aftermarket, and this is where the Haynes Publishing Group steps in. (Note: HPG

publishes both Haynes Manuals, which cover a variety of vehicles, and Clymer Manuals, which traditionally focus on powersports vehicles such as motorcycles and ATVs.) Some of the information contained in a typical Haynes or Clymer manual is, frankly, beyond most shade-tree mechanics. We are not likely to need or even want to do a complete K 1600 GT or R 1200 GS Adventure engine tear-down on a bench in our garage, but the beauty of the Haynes/ Clymer books is that they’re there for us if that’s what we end up doing.

Where these manuals shine is in lending an understanding of complicated systems and sub-assemblies that would otherwise seem incomprehensible. They walk you through, step by step and with accompanying photos, many of the things you can do in your garage or on the side of the road in a pinch. More importantly, they collect in one place all the critical torque values and other measurements needed to properly reassemble all the components and subassemblies on the motorcycle.

Haynes’ newest BMWcentric manual covers 2013-16 liquid-cooled R 1200 bikes, including the newest R and RS models. It matches the high quality standard expected by Haynes readers and contains a wealth of information garnered from a complete tear-down and reassembly of an actual motorcycle. My hardback copy of the 2004-09 R-bike manual is annotated, circled, highlighted, dogeared and grease-stained.

Ron Wright, a motorcycle mechanic and freelance tech writer who writes manuals for Haynes, had this to say: “The motorcycles we are riding today are technically amazing when compared to just a few years ago, and working on them can be a bit overwhelming. Probably the biggest stumbling block we all have when doing something for the first time is a lack of confidence, and when it comes to motorcycles, that may be because we’re not familiar with the motorcycle or technology. One of the easiest ways to gain confidence when working on your BMW is to purchase and study a service manual. Say you’ve never performed a valve adjustment before, or maybe you have but you are now working on your new BMW for the first time.

To start, first read through the complete procedure in the manual. By doing so, the text and illustrations

will familiarize you with the steps required, and you’ll also see what tools you’ll need to do the job. With everything at hand, you can then dig in and start the procedure. Haynes manuals are written around the complete teardown of the motorcycle, so what you’re seeing on your motorcycle while taking it apart is the same as what you are looking at in the manual.

Using a manual to guide you through simple maintenance tasks will give you more confidence when having to tackle more difficult jobs—and we all know these jobs pop up as we put miles on our motorcycles.

Using a manual and working on your BMW also helps to build confidence when traveling. Because you're more familiar with the motorcycle, you're more likely to fix the problem, and if that's not possible on the side of the road, you can relay accurate information to someone listed in the BMW Owners Anonymous or a dealership.”

In addition to books from Haynes, there are a variety of official BMW-published manuals that you might be able to get your hands on, but you’d have to work pretty hard at it and possibly spend a large amount of money—or go to BMW Motorrad Tech School!

No matter how you get one, a tech manual is an absolutely invaluable addition to your toolkit and is therefore this month’s Most Important Tool.

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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discover

simonandlisa

Get to know Simon and Lisa Thomas Simon and Lisa first met in 1992 and while they were both riders, neither could afford a motorcycle. Three years later they were married and pursuing their careers. Simon's serious traffic accident in 1997 made them reevaluate their lives and in 2000 they decided to make their dream ride a reality. With a large map taped to their kitchen wall, the couple planned a motorcycle journey they believed would safely take them through 122 countries over seven continents in 18 months. Thirteen years later, they are still exploring and still passionately riding towards their goals.

Q: Lisa, Simon, how did you met each other?

We both met through work in 1992.

Lisa owned a large health club in the UK, and I worked for a marketing and sales company that specialized in promoting health clubs. Lisa had brought my company an increase in memberships. The funny part is that neither of us were looking for a relationship. We were both far too focused on work and success. I think that some of the very best things in life happen when you’re not looking for them or least expecting them.

Q: Your trip started in 2003. What was, at that time, the itinerary you decided to follow?

We made so many decisions and set

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

so many of our journeys’ goals from the comfort of our cozy bed at the weekends.

This is a dangerous practice, as even the more challenging obstacles seem possible and even easy.

We had a large map on the kitchen wall, and after some research we decided that we could safely ride to and through 122 countries. We also decided that we wanted to ride on a seven continents; we’re still looking for a way to reach Antarctica. Shortly after we departed, we were informed that there were also a number of world records that we could break or set. We determined that we could ride north to reach Nordcapp, the most northerly point in Europe we could reach by motorcycle, and then head south through western Russia and Europe, traversing Africa’s troubled west coast.

From there we’d cross the Atlantic and ride

South America, Central America, the USA and Canada before crossing the Pacific Ocean and reaching Japan. From there, we would ride through Siberia, Mongolia, and Asia. After Asia we planned to ride south to Australia and New Zealand before returning to Africa and exploring the northeast area of the continent and then Persia. The crazy part of all this is that when we set out, we thought we could do all of this in 18 months.

We are still following that same itinerary.

Q: What happened next? Why did you decide to spend your life traveling and to not return home?

Like I said, when we set off, we never imagined that after 13 years we’d still be living in our tent and loving traveling the world. We

planned to travel for a maximum of 18-months; we couldn’t afford more financially, and back then, we simply couldn’t imagine how anyone could live without a permanent job and regular money each month.

Q: When did you decide to extend your journey past the 18-month deadline you’d set?

It was only after our third year on the road that we realized we’d become “adventure junkies” and going back to our normal, routine lives was impossible—it would have killed us mentally. We’d become addicted to the riding, the daily challenges and the uncertainty, along with experiencing new cultures, new friends and all of the overwhelming raw beauty the world has to offer.

Q: After 13 years of travelling, how do you interpret your incredible ongoing journey?

Interestingly, our journey has become our “normal!” I know that both Lisa and I are as excited about travelling today, after over 450,000 miles, as we were at the beginning.

I think we’re also surprised that we’ve not killed one another yet. We’re both fiercely individual, and we both like our own way.

More than anything the “trip” has and continues to provide us the opportunity to find out who “we” really are as individuals.

We’ve discovered more about ourselves, our strengths, our weaknesses and all that we now know to be really important to us. We continue to discover and learn, it’s part of what pushes us on, this need to discover, to know and to be able to understand the world and our place in it.

Q: What do you imagine for your future?

Uncertain but exciting! We still have several years of travels ahead of us. After that, who knows what life has in store? We’d both like to share what we’ve learned and the lessons that have made our lives so rich.

Q: How do you own your life?

Now that is a great question! It’s also a very philosophical question. I think owning your life will mean different things to different people, but for Lisa and I, it comes down to one simple principle, accepting responsibility for your actions! Accepting that responsibility also means you understand that every action has a reaction and that acquiring what you want, be it an item, an experience or even a relationship, takes effort, commitment and sacrifice. Nothing is free, and the world owes each of us zero.

We often hear people tell us that they wish they could lead their lives as we do. In reality, many of them could. However, most people simply cannot imagine making the

sacrifices we have made. Most find it totally impossible to understand the idea of giving up a steady income, job stability, a home, pensions, health care, family, friends, a wardrobe full of clothes, the convenience of clean running water, fridge/freezers, DVD rentals, cable TV, their credit cards or any of the other possessions we are all told defines success and even defines who we are. Owning your life simply means living your life on your own terms and dealing with what comes your way!

Q: What do you value most about your journey?

Simon: That’s easy; for me it would be Lisa.

Being able to share this journey with Lisa, somehow (for me) validates each day and each experience. Being able to share the most incredible decade of my life with her has been wonderful.

Lisa: well, of course its Simon! This journey would just be (in my mind) pointless without him by my side. In fact, life would be pointless. But second after Simon and family I would have to say my motorbike!

Q: If you had to do it one more time, what would you like to change?

This answer is going to sound strange, but we wouldn’t change a thing! Okay, sure we’d like to have missed out the bouts of malaria,

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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discovery 54

simonandlisa dengue fever, dislocated bones and especially the broken neck in the Amazon jungle, but then again, dealing with these wretched experiences has made us who we are today. It’s strange, those three weeks in the Amazon were shear hell, but when we reflect back at that ride through the jungle, we think back on it with a sense of pride that we survived it and made it out. We both discovered we had reserves of physical and mental strengths we hadn’t realized we had.

As for the bikes and gear, we’d take the same bikes and kit, after 13 years

BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

on the road we have a really good idea of what we need in order to live well.

Q: After all these years in far flung countries, do you still feel English?

I think we’ll always be English, but today we both feel more like citizens of the world.

Not because we’ve necessarily changed but because we realize just how alike the people of the world are. Most people, irrespective of culture, race or religion, just want the same thing. They want to survive, look after their families and most want nothing more than to provide their children a better life

than they have had.

Q: Do you think, one day, you’ll stop traveling?

This current journey will have to end. We have no finances left, and at some point we need a base. Lisa and I agree that we’ll never stop travelling or exploring. There’s just too much wonderful stuff out there to experience, too many great and challenging places to ride a motorcycle, and we’re just too driven to actually stop seeking them out.

Q: You are using your journey to support a

few chosen charities. Could you tell us more about this?

The charities we support are charities that have directly affected our own families. My mother (Simon) was diagnosed with breast cancer before we left the UK, and so we are raising funds for CancerBacup. CancerBACUP is a charity providing comprehensive, up to date information and support to people affected by cancer, their families and friends.

Lisa and her late father suffer from several serious coronary issues, and so we are

also hoping to raise funds and awareness for the British Heart Foundation, which is a pioneer in the field of research and coronary health betterment.

Lastly, we encourage anyone to donate and support WaterAid. This is an international agency that not only installs clean water facilities into impoverished and remote locations around the world but also crucially provides the education and tools for the locals to maintain and repair the facility. More men, women and children die each year from water related illness than from any other causes.

Q: Where to Next?

We’re working on riding through China, and we’ve also got our sights set on the Caribbean Islands. Right now we’re sorting through thousands of images and video footage from Alaska and the Yukon territories in Canada. It was stunning ride. So, stay tuned.

Ride far, ride safe. All the best, Simon & Lisa Copyright © Simon & Lisa Thomas – www.2ridetheworld.com. All rights reserved.

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

55

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Cuba Redux U.S. Riders Can Now Legally Taste The Forbidden Fruit

By Christopher Baker #126077 58

BMW OWNERS NEWS  November 2016

Motorcyclists ride along the bay in Santiago de Cuba. All photographs by Christopher P. Baker

November 2016  BMW OWNERS NEWS

59

One day last June I was strolling along a cobbled street in Habana Vieja—Havana’s remarkable colonial core—when Ernesto “Che” Guevara’s son bounded out of a bar and embraced me. Like his dad, Ernesto “Jr.” is a motorcycle enthusiast. When I first met him about five years ago he was riding a jade-colored 1948 Harley-Davidson Flathead around the tumbledown streets. After we dined together at the newly opened barrestaurant—Chacón 162—in Cinco Esquinas, Havana’s trendy epicenter of sudden gentrification, Ernesto Guevara rode off on a 2015 Electra Glide Ultra Classic.

Two years have passed since President Obama announced a rapprochement with communist Cuba, five years since Raúl Castro eased up on cuentas propistas (private entrepreneurs), and 25 years since I began reporting on this endlessly fascinating and eccentric isle. Suddenly I need a neck restraint to stop doing double-takes as locals burst out of their straight-jackets.

Every third building in this overcrowded, once-sclerotic quarter of Habana Vieja is in the throes of a remake as a boutique B&B, hip restaurant, or—what’s this?—a gourmet heladería selling homemade gelato ice creams. But nothing epitomizes the “New Cuba” emerging before my eyes so much as Ernesto roaring off on his sleek new Harley tourer.

Or maybe it’s that you can’t find a vacant hotel room for love nor money. Havana is jam-packed with yanqui visitors making the most of the heretofore forbidden fruit.

A series finale of House of Lies, plus segments of Fast & Furious 8, have just finished filming, as Hollywood, too, cottons on. And yes, even U.S. motorcyclists are finally able to ride legally through this timewarp stage set and destination du jour!

In 1999, BMW ON published my twoedition report (April and May issues) on my three-month motorcycle journey through Cuba in 1966 as a professional journalist.

Almost two decades passed in which ordinary U.S. citizens were still barred from visiting Cuba. Then, in 2011, President Obama created a new educational license category to permit “people-to-people contact.” The licenses were issued solely to organizations—not individuals—for group travel. In April 2016, the “people-to-people” license was extended to individuals, effectively ending the travel ban.

Forget taking your own wheels, though.

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

The colonial town of Trinidad, Cuba.

It remains illegal under U.S. embargo laws for U.S. citizens to ship any vehicle to Cuba, however temporary. And Cuba’s government-run tourism agencies have a monopoly on all vehicle rentals (other than classic cars), and the only bikes to be rented in Cuba are flimsy scooters. But every U.S. citizen can sign up for group motorcycle tours offered as “people-to-people” programs. In January, 2013, I secured a license on behalf of Texas-based MotoDiscovery authorizing the first such programs, fulfilling a dream held since I first rode my R 100 GS to the Bay of Pigs and Guantánamo in 1996. I’ve since led numerous group

motorcycle trips through Cuba using BMW F-series bikes, 1200 GSs, and other bikes, imported by third parties from Europe and registered for a maximum six-month stay.

Which brings us back to Ernesto and his blood-red Harley. In 1952, Ernesto’s eponymous papa—an Argentine—famously rode a 1939 Norton around South America with his pal Alberto Granado, as portrayed in Che’s brilliant travelogue and, later, the movie The Motorcycle Diaries. (The journey might have been the adventure of Che’s lifetime had he not hooked up with Fidel Castro and become a seminal figure in the Cuban Revolution.) Ernesto is the youngest

of four children by Che and his Cuban wife (and fellow revolutionary guerrilla) Aleida March. In 2014 Ernesto, a lawyer by training, launched his own Havana-based motorcycle tour company—La Poderosa Tours—named after the sobriquet his father gave his fickle Norton, “La Poderosa” (“Powerful One”). Ernesto has dual CubanArgentinian citizenship. He imported an all-Harley fleet from Argentina for his tours. Meanwhile, Edelweiss Bike Travel serves a mostly European clientele, using its own BMWs, Harleys, and Triumph Tigers.

Two Chilean tour operators initiated tours in 2016 catering to South Americans using Suzukis and Harleys.

No, their bikes cannot be rented. Nor are any of the above tours “people-to-people” (P2P) compatible. U.S. bikers need to look elsewhere.

The good news? Any motorcycle club or group of friends can now offer their own customized P2P-compatible motorcycle programs as long as the itinerary is in accordance with U.S. regulations (see Cuba Motorcycle Tours: www.cubamotorcycletours.com). And options for fixed-date tours are increasing. For example, Arizonabased newcomer RTW Moto Tours (www. rtwmototours.com) has launched a triptych of 8-, 12-, and 14-day Cuba programs for

Bob Henig photographs a revolutionary billboard in Cienfuegos, Cuba.

2017, traversing the island end to end. And Cross Cultural Journeys (www.crossculturaljourneys.com), which specializes in “socially responsible travel,” is trying its hand with a 12-day “Motorcycle Diaries” itinerary in October 2017 that includes visits to several sites associated with Che Guevara.

Motorcycling through Cuba, you can’t get away from Che. I was once served a macchiato with his iconic image sprinkled

in cinnamon atop the spume. The Guinness Book of Records claims the image of the bearded revolutionary wearing his beret with five-pointed star is the most replicated of any individual in the world. If so, last year when I was on a 14-day tour that I led for Bob’s BMW Motorcycles, of Jessup, Maryland, I mused half the images must be in Cuba. We stopped to photograph a billboard of a smiling Che and his famous phrase: “Hasta la victoria siempre” (Until

Motorcyclists in Santiago de Cuba.

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

61

victory, always).

La Victoria…That’s the name, coincidentally, by which Cubans refer to the disastrously ill-conceived, CIA-sponsored invasion at the Bay of Pigs. Our group arrived at the spot where socialism and capitalism squared off in 1961. It was difficult, however, to imagine that blood and bullets had mingled with the sand and the surf here five decades before. Foreign tourists were sunning themselves on snow-white sands while Cuban families splashed about in the teal-blue Caribbean shallows.

With all the hoopla about politics, it’s easy to overlook the sheer beauty of the place. The talcum beaches. The chartreuse cane-fields. The emerald mountains and valleys full of dramatic formations. The ancient cities evocative of the once-mighty power of Spain. The whiff of cigar smoke and sea mist wafting over the Malecón as the sun sets and Havana succumbs to nights of sexy showgirls and sizzling salsa. Ah… the music! Everywhere music is hot enough to cook the pork, inspiring Cubans to dance groin to groin. Socialism and sensuality?

You’ll love it!

A duo performs on a Havana street.

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

Your first reaction to Havana is of having arrived at a 1950s Hollywood stage-set.

Street after street is lined with astonishing—and mostly crumbling—Beaux Arts, Art Deco, and Modernist buildings. Cars from the Eisenhower era are everywhere, too, rumbling down the road to the rhythm of the rhumba on the radio. Chrome-laden DeSotos...corpulent Buicks...stylish Plymouth Furies and other relics of Mafia-era ostentation putter along beside sober Russian-made Ladas, Czech-made Jawas, and venerable 650cc Urals with sidecars. (Following the 1959 Revolution, for decades only Soviet bloc vehicles entered Cuba.)

Suzuki 250s (imported by the Cuban state since the 1990s for use by security personnel and government officials) are ubiquitous, buzzing down every town’s dusty streets. And tránsitos—traffic cops—lurk roadside beside their low-slung Yamaha 250 Viragos or Moto-Guzzi 750s. Otherwise, modern motos are rarer than a Fidel sighting. BMWs? Non-existent.

In 1996 I chanced upon a 1938 BMW in the provincial town of Las Tunas. Luis, the owner, had shipped it after a working stint

in East Germany. Over the years, he’d had to jury-rig it like Frankenstein’s monster. The only other Beemer I’ve seen in two decades of near-constant travel through Cuba was an R 90 S ridden by a U.S. Marine, circa 1999. Say whaaaat? Marines in Cuba? Yes, back then the U.S. maintained quasi-diplomatic relations with Cuba via an “Interests Section” housed in the former U.S. Embassy (it resumed its role as the embassy on July 20, 2015, when the two countries normalized relations). A Marine detachment helped guard it.

The BMWs, Suzuki V-Stroms, and Harleys used by U.S. tour groups seem totally out of place in this twilight zone country half-frozen in time. “Coño! What make is this? How fast does it go?” Cubans inevitably exclaim.

Every adventure motorcyclist knows that exchange. What differs in Cuba is that the P2P license requires a heavy daily dose of more formal off-the-bike “educational” engagements. On trips that I lead, this could mean meeting my personal friends such as Ernesto, or Cuban national team baseball player Alex Quintero, or

world-renowned tobacco farmer Hirochi Robaina. On one tour in 2014, Ricardo Alarcón, Cuba’s former Foreign Minister and President of the National Assembly, graciously joined my group for dinner. And always you’ll meet harlistas—owners of Cuba’s few-score pre-revolutionary Harleys.

Luis Enrique González looks like a textbook harlista in his blood-red bandanna, chain-festooned jeans, and black T-shirt emblazoned with a Harley-Davidson logo.

He stomps down on the kick-start and the 1936 Knucklehead explodes into life. His blue-and-white antique Harley (one of twelve he owns) would be a museum piece elsewhere in the world. In Cuba it’s a daily ride. Yet keeping it running is a challenge in this land of U.S. embargos and perpetual shortage. “El cubano inventa,” he says laughing as he explains how Cuba’s proudly fanatical owners of yesteryear Harleys scavenge or monkey-wrench parts.

“What we can’t fix or cannibalize from cars we make ourselves,” Luis adds, as our group gathers in his taller (workshop) in Havana’s once-tony Vedado district. “We tailor virtually any part you can think of, right here.”

“Hecho en Cuba, chico!” he says, as he displays handlebars and exhausts made from domestic piping and drive chains that once powered conveyor-belts in Cuba’s Coca-Cola bottling plant. Russian GAZ jeep pistons substitute for Harley originals.

And, he explains, in the grim years known as the “Special Period” after the collapse of the Soviet Union, lack of tires forced Luis to replace one of his Harley’s spoked wheels with solid 16-inch VW Beetle wheels.

Luis laughs, then grimaces. His fists clench, as if wrestling a bull, as he mimics trying to muscle the bike, with its flat tires, through a corner: “Coño! It was like being in a rodeo!” Such colorful personalities embody the irresistible spirit and soul of this iconoclastic socialist isle in the sun.

Luis doubles as a Cuban road guide on group motorcycle tours, alongside a compulsory Cuban tour guide who rides shotgun in the support van (to carry the luggage and spares). Together they add immeasurably to a U.S. rider’s insights. Sharing my knowledge and insights is second only to the thrill of riding. I, too, love helping clients peel back the layers. Understanding this enigmatic society isn’t easy. And that’s

A colorful 1956 Chevrolet Bel-Air parked in the colonial town of Trinidad.

Harlista Luis Enrique Gonzalez with one of his pre-revolutionary Harleys.

A 1950's era classic car passes a revolutionary slogan.

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Switching saddles outside Trinidad.

Gamecock preening near Baracoa.

An old man poses with a cockerel.

A Cuba Motorcycle Tours group member rides a motocross course in Sancti Spiritus.

Cuba’s star appeal. It’s so close to the USA yet so utterly different. Billboards proclaim “Patriotism or Death!” and “Long live socialism!” like a slap in the face, leaving no doubt that you’re in a communist—or at least a Castroite—nation.

On one recent 14-day, all-Cuba trip, I led

the group into the Plaza de la Revolución on the western outskirts of Santa Clara. A granite monument of Che, portrayed midstride and toting a rifle, towers on the scale of the Colossus of Rhodes over the sprawling hilltop piazza. Che’s remains are interred beneath in a mausoleum open to view.

I lined up the group beside their bikes— on this trip F 650s and F 800s and a sprinkling of HDs—for a photo. Then for a lark—Cubans would never dream of the sacrilege!—I had client David Latham pull up his Harley Street Glide in front of Che. Dave was wearing a straw hat and designer shades. His teeth clenched tight on a stogie.

He gripped full-force on the brakes and wound up the Harley full throttle. I saw a military sentry in the distance go slackjawed, unsure what to do, as Dave eased out the clutch. Blue smoke enveloped him as the screaming mad rear tire burned rubber.

“Biker’s homage to Che!” laughed Dave. I’m not sure his son would approve.

I often wonder “What does Ernesto make of it all?” It’s pointless to ask. He never talks of his dad. He’s his own man. Although privileged, like most Cubans I know he’s humble yet self-assured. Cubans have grown up in a culture almost entirely devoid of materialism. Ostentation is alien to the Cuban way, to the concept of the “New Man”—someone embodying Revolutionary virtues, shunning individualism for the community good in the pursuit of egalitarianism. Che himself thought up el nuevo hombre before turning his back on Cuba in 1966 to lead a failed—and ultimately fatal— revolution in Bolivia.

A machetero astride an R 1200 GSA in a canefield near Guantanamo.

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Cuba's material impoverishment hasn't stifled the happiness and generosity of this disarming people. There are no Walmarts.

No MacDonalds along the Malecón. No advertisements imploring Cubans to Buy, Buy, Buy! Not that they have much to spend; the average monthly salary equates to about US $25.

But that’s changing. Visitors today are witness to a decade of post-Fidel change as Cuba transitions to an uncertain future.

Commercialism is taking hold thanks to a massive influx of cash, courtesy of the tourist boom, and, last year, at least $1.5 billion was sent from the USA as family remittances. Possibility hangs in the air like

intoxicating aromas of añejo rum. And with it, I can already feel Cuba’s “innocence” seeping away, like fine aged rum diluted by melting ice.

Cuban youth increasingly flaunt Samsung mobiles and iPhones. Reggaeton—for God’s sake!—now assaults your senses, overpowering more romantic traditional Cuban tunes as you stroll the cobbled back streets of Habana Vieja. And riding a Suzuki V-Strom 1000 along the Malecón in August 2016 with a group of Chileans, I was astounded when four young Cubans flew past on their own modern Japanese sports bikes.

All the more reason to tour Cuba now, I

mused, reflecting on Ernesto having swapped out his beaten-about 1948 HarleyDavidson Flathead for a welcome-tothe-21st-century Electra Glide Ultra Classic.

Christopher P. Baker (www.christopherpbaker.com) has written and photographed six books on Cuba, including Mi Moto Fidel: Motorcycling Through Castro’s Cuba. He has written and photographed for more than 200 publications, from BMW Owners News to National Geographic Traveler and Playboy. He freelances as a tour leader and arranges customized P2P programs: www. cubamotorcycletours.com.

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Catching a Tradewind to Eden Cupola House. Photo by Allen Phelps

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By Deb Gasque #182082 “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

- Mark Twain

A

hhhh…wise words from ol’ Mark that fit the bill for a solo road trip I took earlier this fall. I’ve lived near the southeastern coast for 20 years now and should know better than to plan a trip, much less one on a motorcycle, during the height of Atlantic hurricane season. During that time of the year, there’s always a risk involved that a trip planned can quickly become a trip cancelled when there’s a disturbance brewing offshore. In fact, two days before I departed on this particular trip, there were two tropical disturbances bouncing around in the Atlantic, Tropical Depression #8 and Tropical Depression #9. But my bad case of wanderlust and strong passion for adventure took over, and I rebelliously threw off my bowlines and sailed away; my two-wheels caught a fabulous trade wind, and off I was to “Explore. Dream. Discover.” Mark would be proud!

My initial destination was 70 miles inland from where Tropical Depression #8 was set to come ashore along the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

I was heading to a sweet little hideaway nestled in the Inner Banks of North Carolina, the town of Edenton, named by Forbes as “One of America’s Prettiest Towns.” Although I took backroads from my home in Conway, South Carolina, Edenton can be accessed via I-95, as it sits just 80 miles southeast from Roanoke Rapids, North Carolina, if you’re traveling from the north, and just 87 miles east from Rocky Mount, North Carolina, if you’re traveling from the south. I realized I was playing a game of chance by traveling with the threat of two strong storms that were knocking at my door, but I maintained a strong will to stay the course and a positive outlook that it would all work out favorably. At my final fuel stop prior to arriving in Edenton, I did a quick check of the weather, which was very encouraging, as Tropical Depression #8 was already fizzling out.

The choice of accommodation for my stay in Edenton was a delightful B&B, the Inner Banks Inn (InnerBanksInn.com). Spanning 250 years of history, the property is a collection of four historic homes and a carriage house converted into an onsite restaurant. The main house, The Lord’s Proprietor, is a classic Southern Victorian mansion which features a dreamy wrap-around Southern porch that beckons guests to sit and unwind. I stayed in room “One,” which was beautifully decorated with graceful antique furniture, and I enjoyed two nights of beautiful sleep in my luxurious king-sized bed. Additionally, the onsite restaurant, The Table, is a TripAdvisor “Certificate of Excellence” restaurant (TheTableNC.com), so I dined there both evenings and was happy to find the recommendation valid. Chef Ron displays his extraordinary epicurean talent precisely with a plentiful helping of soul. It was divine! I also had the distinct pleasure of spending a couple of hours chatting with the proprietor of the inn, Susan Beckwith, who is very pro-motorcyclist. She has generously extended some very special rates to our BMW MOA community. This place is truly worth a visit!

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As I began to explore Edenton, established in 1722, I knew immediately this village called deeply to my rebellious spirit.

Following a highly informative session at the Historic Edenton Visitor Center (108 N. Broad Street), I found out about 51 of my bygone kindred sisters. The Edenton Tea Party, organized in 1774, was headed up by Penelope Barker and 50 of her fed-up, female compadres. This group of sassy women let the British know that they weren’t going to put up with the steep taxes on British tea and cloth, amongst other items, so together all 51 women signed an agreement to boycott the goods coming in from Britain. I was already liking the vibe in this town!

As I made my way down historic Broad Street toward the waterfront, I truly enjoyed the town’s vintage feel, including the sweet character of the locals and their exchanges of lovely sidewalk pleasantries. An immense assemblage of historic buildings and homes line the streets (with the oldest dated from the mid-1700s), and architecture styles range from Jacobean, Georgian, Federal, and Greek

Revival to Victorian. I enjoyed visits to the Chowan County Courthouse (est.1767), the Cupola House (est. 1758), the Iredell House (est. 1800), the Barker House (est. 1782) and the Roanoke River Lighthouse (est. 1886). I was also able to find the historic Edenton Tea Pot, a 250-pound cast bronze teapot which is mounted upon a Revolutionary War era cannon standing as its base. The ornate teapot marks the site of the residence in which 51 of my kindred revolutionary friends signed their boycott of British goods. It’s a great historical marker worth seeing…and fun to find.

Also while traveling down historic Broad

Edenton Tea Pot. Photo by Deb Gasque.

Street, I spied The Chowan Herald office and couldn't help but dip in and say “hello” to fellow journalists. I had the distinct pleasure of meeting the Herald’s office manager, Sue Bunch, a true born and raised local of Edenton. Sue has been at the paper since at least the 1950s, and I’m certain she could tell some great stories. I loved the character in their office. Following that impromptu visit, I boarded a trolley ($10) to enjoy a great hour and a half narrative tour and history of Edenton. It was fantastic and allowed me to see all that this historic gem had to offer. Once I departed the trolley, I padded down to the waterfront. There I took a break for some quiet time to take in the panoramic, breathtaking scenery. As I sat in sweet silence, watching the seagulls float fluidly over the gently lapping water, I smiled, knowing I had discovered another piece of heaven on earth. These are the moments that I treasure so deeply, finding the secret “Edens” of the world, and it makes me so grateful for being a long-distance, off-thebeaten-path type of motorcyclist… who truly digs adventure.

The Edenton waterfront. Photo by Allen Phelps.

Along Edenton's Water Street. Photo by Allen Phelps.

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Sunset at 1886 Roanoke River Light House. Photo by Allen Phelps.

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It was time to head back to my home base for the night, but a stop into the Edenton Bay Trading Company was a delightful detour. I enjoyed the decor in this fun place with its exquisite embellishments and was thrilled at their amazing wine and beer selection. I spent some time with the owners and their friends over a glass of wine and truly enjoyed their superb hospitality.

They introduced me to several locals who streamed in for evening libations, so I was able to grasp an even deeper understanding of the village’s character. It was the perfect way to end an ideal day of exploration.

Following another delicious meal at The Table and another beautifully restful night, it was time to say “goodbye” and set sail on my two-wheeled vessel out of Edenton, as the next storm was steadily approaching.

Tropical Depression #9 had gained intensity and now had a name, “Tropical Storm Hermine.” I decided to catch another adventurous trade wind and breeze through the Outer Banks to explore that area before

Above, Craft beer at Edenton Bay Trading Company. Right, Locally-caught fair along the Outer Banks. Below, The Inner Banks Inn.

Hermine showed up. I took Hwy 32 out of Edenton, to Hwy 94 and then to Hwy 64 East. Along that route, I crossed through the Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge and discovered several “Bear Crossing” and “Red Wolf Crossing” signs. The scenery was spectacularly grand, and I enjoyed an exhilarating breeze while I scanned the landscape for wildlife. Continuing on Hwy 64 East, I traveled over a series of bridges with remarkable scenic water views. Upon nearing the Outer Banks of North Carolina, I crossed through Roanoke Island and near the town of Manteo, the birthplace of English colonization in America in 1587 and the birthplace of the first American-born English child, Virginia Dare. This is also where the “Lost Colony” has kept many scientists and archaeologists searching for answers. I plan to thoroughly explore this area in the future.

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Six seats waiting at Penelope Barker House. Photo by Allen Phelps.

Six miles east of Manteo, I arrived at the intersection of Highway 12 which is the main thoroughfare of the Outer Banks. Traveling north on Hwy 12 for 18 miles is historic Kitty Hawk National Memorial where the Wright Brothers pioneered our journey into the skies. I’ve visited there before, and it’s amazing. A turn south on Hwy 12 from Hwy 64 East will journey through Cape Hatteras National Seashore, Rodanthe, Avon, Buxton and Hatteras (58 miles). Due to time constraints, I chose the southern route. As I traveled through the massive sand dunes and enchanting coastal scenery, I enjoyed a visit to the famous Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. After snapping a few photos, it was time to board the ferry to Ocracoke (no fee). Boarding the ferry on two-wheels was smooth and provided another level of adventure. Following an approximate hour of viewing stunning scenery from the ferry deck, it was time to throw my sea legs over the saddle again and ride my steed onto the island of Ocracoke.

Ocracoke is a happy little village full of seemingly happy people. With its stunning sunsets, pristine beaches, historic maritime village and fresh local seafood, this island has plenty to offer, so I recommend an overnight stay.

On a previous visit to Ocracoke, I stayed at the Silver Lake Motel & Inn. It was cute, quaint, clean and reasonable, plus it was just across the tiny road from the festive Jolly Roger Pub and Marina, a great place have fun and to view breathtaking sunsets. Be sure to study up on the ferry schedule from

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Ocracoke to Cedar Island prior to your visit; the schedule is somewhat limited, and ferry service takes two and one half hours to get to the mainland. The cost for motorcycles is $10, and it’s a great way to do some sightseeing on the water. As I departed out of Ocracoke that day, the water was somewhat rough due to Tropical Storm Hermine’s approach. I carefully secured my precious cargo (’94 R 1100 RSL) as the ferry sailed away from safe harbor. It was a little rugged at times, but highly adventurous.

Upon departure from the ferry onto Cedar Island, I traveled south on Hwy 12 to Hwy 70 into Beaufort, North Carolina (38 miles). This cool seaside town has a fun energy. There are several quaint shops, taverns and restaurants that dot the waterfront. But, my favorite part of this visit was Shackleford Banks, the southernmost barrier island in the Cape Lookout National Seashore. A small pedestrian ferry delivered me to the nine-mile long uninhabited island ($16/round trip) which is the home to approximately 100 feral mustang horses, Sunrise on Lake Phelps. Photo by Allen Phelps.

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the oldest documented horse population in North America. The shelling on this barrier island is fantastic also, but the horses are what drew my attention. After a few unsuccessful attempts to get these wild stallions to pose for a photo that was magazine-worthy, along with the knowledge that a nasty storm was on its way, I took the ferry back to Beaufort and decided it was time to roll that throttle on and deadhead it to my destination for the next two days, Wilmington, North Carolina.

I departed out of Beaufort heading south on Hwy 24 and then picked up Hwy 17 South in Jacksonville all the way to Wilmington (105 miles). The weather was still holding up well but was forecast to begin diminishing in the early morning hours of the next day. I checked into Angie’s B&B (angiesbandb.com), located just a mile and a half from downtown Wilmington. This bed and breakfast (circa 1917), located in the “mansion” section of the city, was quaint and loaded with character. The owners, Angie and Chris, are of Greek descent and

made my stay feel like I was visiting close relatives. They insisted on putting my motorcycle in their garage for safe haven, and I didn’t resist. After a hot shower and donning my fashion pick for the evening, I called an Uber and headed downtown. A super-hip city located along the banks of the Cape Fear River, historic Downtown Wilmington hosts a bevy of things to do and see, including the charming Riverwalk, live theatre productions, boat tours, Battleship North Carolina, museums, carriage tours, and much more. The restaurants and pubs are plentiful, and many places host live music at night that you can hear as you peruse through the city. I went casual fare that evening and enjoyed a delicious meal and craft brew at the Front Street Brewery.

After a long day of riding and sightseeing, along with knowing Hermine would be knocking on the door within a few hours, I headed back to my room to get a good night’s sleep.

No surprises as I awoke the next morning…Tropical Storm Hermine had arrived

and was making sure everyone in town knew she was present. Thankfully, she was just super sassy and not horribly destructive. My delightful Greek hosts made sure I was well taken care of all day, and even fed me a home cooked, ethnic meal for dinner. The Wilmington area endured an entire day and night of heavy rain and moderate wind. I was forced indoors, and my rebellious side didn't appreciate it one bit. My adventures were cut short by Hermine’s impolite presence.

And I knew that upon her departure, I too would have to depart and head back to my homestead. But…disappointment?

Absolutely NOT! I would have been completely disappointed at MYSELF had I cancelled the whole trip in the beginning due to the threat of storms. Instead, because I truly believe in those wise words by Mark Twain, I dreamed, explored and discovered; I threw off the bowlines, caught a trade wind, and found my Eden and beyond.

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A statue of Wyatt Earp watches over Front Street in Dodge City.

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T

he weather in Denver is unsettled, windy, with dark clouds forming along the mountains. On the flight in, we see thunderstorms rising over Kansas like mushroom clouds. Two days before our arrival, tornadoes had touched down on the southwest edge of our destination, Dodge City, Kansas. At this moment, the sky directly above us is blue, but we can feel the weather changing.

The bikes we rent from Colorado Front Range—F 650 GS thumpers with new tires—look like fun. We repack our tail bags on the sidewalk in front of Colorado Motorcycle Adventures’ small shop and climb into our armored jackets and pants.

Colorado Motorcycle Adventures is in Aurora, which is being engulfed by Denver’s metropolitan sprawl. We want to get a head start on the 400-mile ride to Dodge City by taking back roads to the town of Limon, about three hours away. The weather forecast is for severe thunderstorms, and a tornado watch is in effect.

About 30 miles out of Aurora, the cars vanish from highway 36, and we’re alone as we head east towards the ghost town of Last Chance. I don’t know how to recognize Last Chance, but I’m keeping a lookout for a small town. Last Chance was founded by Charlie Harbert and his family as a homesteaded cattle ranch in the early 1900s.

When the first interstate highway system came through in the 1920’s, Last Chance was fortuitously located at the intersection of highway 36 and highway 71. Harbert

The abandoned Last Chance Motel.

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named his little community Last Chance because it was an opportunity for travelers from Denver to fill up with fuel and supplies before the journey into Kansas.

There’s no town in sight at the junction with highway 71. We stop on a gravel road near a few abandoned buildings and Laura shuts off her bike. She lifts her visor and asks, “Where are we?”

I turn off my bike’s ignition. “This is supposed to be Last Chance,” I shout back. We are both wearing ear plugs. Interstate 70, farther south and near Limon, bypassed Last Chance in the early 1960s and destroyed the little town’s economy. Tornadoes and fires took care of what was left.

We pull off our helmets and walk toward the forlorn buildings. Laura steps into the tall grass, heading for a cluster of trees. I walk up toward what turns out to be the abandoned Last Chance Motel.

Just as I’m getting close to the motel building, I hear Laura scream. I turn to see her running downslope, through the tall grass. “Rattlesnake!” she says “I almost stepped on it.” Laura took a breath. “It swung its head at me.”

I can’t see the snake in the tall grass, but its rattling is distinctive. I’m glad we are wearing riding boots and armored pants.

“Well, I’ll let you play with the rattlesnake,” I say, “I’m going to check out that building.”

“I’m with you,” Laura says as she follows me up the slight incline to the old motel.

We step inside the abandoned motel, and Laura lets out a yell. I turn back to see swifts

darting past her head, flying out the open doorway. The birds have nests in the rafters of the abandoned building.

“You seem to be interacting with all the wildlife,” I say. She gives me a look.

The wind is picking up, so, after exploring the dilapidated motel we head for Limon. Forked lightning cuts the skyline to the south and west. The sky above us is being consumed by dark blue storm clouds as we pull under the hotel’s porte cochere.

Within a few minutes of our arrival, pouring rain, gusting wind, thunder and lightning envelope Limon. It storms all night, and Friday morning dawns to heavy rain blowing against the hotel windows.

Despite the weather, we have an early breakfast, get into our rain gear and ride into the blowing wind. We stay completely dry inside the rain gear despite the car drivers we meet at a gas station who tell us we’re crazy to be riding in such weather.

It takes us three hours to outrun the storm. The horizon behind us is dark and foreboding, but the sky overhead is partly cloudy when we stop and pay our respects at the Sand Creek Massacre National Historic Site, where Army troops massacred 165 Cheyenne and Arapaho in November 1864. The rain catches up to us while we’re hiking the trails, and we hightail it to the bikes and on through Chivington, the rundown town named after the colonel that ordered the massacre.

The rain abandons us at the Kansas border, and we stop at the Santa Fe Trail Tracks historical site, not far from Cimarron and the intersection of US Highways 50 and 400. The site is a quiet, seldom-used turnout. Besides being able to see ruts made by the ox-drawn covered wagons that traveled this original Santa Fe Trail in the 1800s, the historical site is also valuable for its preservation of a small part of the original high plains, shortgrass prairie. Throughout the West, this native prairie has been plowed into wheat fields, corn fields or fenced for cattle grazing. Here though, there is a small portion of the original prairie as it was experienced by pioneer families traveling west.

Back on our bikes, we continue east, approaching Dodge City on the four-lane highway. The 80-mile-an-hour rush of 18-wheeled cattle trailers and milk tanker trucks is a shocking contrast to the previous 400 miles of farm roads.

The entrance to Dodge City.

In Kansas, US 50/400 is a truck route that parallels the original intercontinental railroad, the Atchison Topeka & Santa Fe railroad tracks. We pass an endless westbound train of mud-brown tanker and grain cars. On these last few miles, as we free-fall down the interstate; I am feeling tired and trail-worn, and I think of the apocryphal story of a destitute cowboy slouching in a locomotive passenger car, looking out at telegraph poles passing in front of the desolate Kansas prairie.

John Bender, a conductor for the Santa Fe Railroad, approached the cowboy and demanded firmly, “Ticket.”

Without turning his head from the window, the cowboy replied, “Ain’t got one.”

The conductor noticed the cowboy’s ragged hat on the adjacent seat, the tears in his blanket-like homespun coat, and the holes worn through the sides of his boots.

“Where you headed?” he asked.

After a moment’s thought, the cowboy replied, “To hell, I reckon.”

The conductor cleared his throat and said, “Well then, give me a dollar and get

off at Dodge.”

We arrived in Dodge on Friday. Dodge was founded in 1872 along the Arkansas River about five miles west of the military outpost of Fort Dodge. Dodge was so located because liquor was not allowed to be sold within five miles of any western fort. Fort Dodge and its parasitic The Boot Hill Bed & Breakfast in Dodge City. saloons stood at a major Dodge City. Listed in the U.S. National fork in the Santa Fe wagon trail. The MounRegister of Historic Places and originally tain Branch headed west from Dodge, folthe family home of real estate developer lowing the Arkansas River into Colorado.

Hiram Burr, this brick Dutch Colonial-style The shorter (and arid) Cimarron Cutoff mansion was built in 1927. Today, the Boot crossed the Arkansas River near Dodge to Hill Bed and Breakfast is owned and mandrive southwest to the Cimarron River. We aged by the husband and wife team Kurt hadn’t been in Dodge City long before we and Enid. A perfectly matched couple, Kurt learned that in Kansas, the Arkansas River is gregarious and social, while Enid is a talis proudly pronounced the “Ar-Kansas ented cook and hostess. They make this the River.” most comfortable and hospitable place to We spend that Friday and Saturday night stay in Dodge. at the Boot Hill Bed and Breakfast in

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We rendezvous on Friday evening with Laura’s younger sister, Cindy, who drove to Dodge that day from Monument, Colorado. We find her lounging in the Boot Hill B&B backyard as if she owns the place.

The railroad’s arrival at Dodge began its boomtown days in the late 1800s, as it enabled large shipments of product to eastern markets. From 1872, when the railroad first laid tracks into Dodge, to about 1875, the slaughter of prairie buffalo drove the town’s economy. Millions of buffalo were shot, skinned and left to rot. Their hides were sold in enormous piles to east coast dealers and left town in wagons piled high with the hides. When the buffalo were gone, their bones were shipped east by the ton and used to make china.

Dodge was also known for its lawlessness. The gunfighters, train robbers and horse thieves of the late 1800s were a product of the American Civil War, which uprooted millions of young men and turned them into killers. Easy violence combined with easy money made Dodge a dangerous place. A skilled buffalo hunter and his skinners could make $100 a day, and the cash

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A Texas Longhorn is part of a small herd pastured near the Dodge City airport.

was paid out in Dodge. Drinking, gambling and whoring incited violence, gunplay and murder, usually with no consequence.

We dedicate Saturday to seeing historic Dodge. After an early morning walk, Laura and I met her sister Cindy in the B&B’s dining room to enjoy Enid’s home-baked

pastry, eggs, bacon, potatoes, coffee and tea.

Enid and Kurt’s motto is “no one leaves this house hungry.”

Retired Deputy U.S. Marshall Charlie Meade visited the B&B as we were having our lavish breakfast. Charlie answered our questions about Dodge’s history, gave us

recommendations of nearby sights to see, and offered us a place on his tour of the town’s Trail of Fame later in the morning.

Charlie can truthfully claim to have been born in a hearse, because back in 1932, Dodge had one vehicle that served the city both as its ambulance and hearse. Charlie was delivered en route to the hospital by U.S. Marshall Hamilton Bell, who retained an affection for young Charlie as he was growing up. Ham, as he was known, lived through the Civil War, World War I and World War II, and inspired Charlie to become a U.S. Marshal himself. Ham served as a marshal for 12 years and as a county sheriff for 22; it may come as no surprise that Ham’s life was the model for the Sheriff Matt Dillon character in the TV series Gunsmoke.

As the buffalo were exterminated, Dodge’s boom was continued by the Texas Longhorn drives that brought cattle, cowboys and their pay to the intercontinental railroad in Kansas. The last commercial cattle drive to Dodge was in 1886. The drives were stopped by Kansas legislation to halt the spread of the Texas Fever, a disease

The current Fort Dodge Sutler’s store.

deadly to domestic cattle. Longhorns carried ticks that spread the disease to local cattle, so the Kansas legislature banned the Longhorn from Kansas.

After Charlie’s guided tour of the Trail of Fame, we stop at Fort Dodge, now a

veterans’ home. We also visit the small Longhorn cattle herd pastured on the east end of town at the entrance to Dodge City’s airport. Today, Dodge City’s main industry is massive meat packing plants that can process up to 10,000 cattle per day.

A view of the high plains as it appeared to the early pioneers.

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Casualties mount on Front Street.

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Reaching for his second gun.

Saturday afternoon, we pick up our tickets to the Boot Hill Museum, which is really quite impressive. The displays are remarkably well curated and informative. They document both the wild west of the late 1800s as well as the region’s Native American culture.

The gunfights on the Boot Hill Museum’s Front Street reconstruction are great entertainment. Cowboys, fresh from the cattle drives, make questionable decisions. Gunplay ensues, and a great number of tenants for the boot hill cemetery collect on the museum grounds. The sheriff and his deputy eventually restore law and order, but not before every participant is either killed or grievously wounded.

The highlight of the day is the evening variety show at the Long Branch Saloon. It’s opening night for the season. We sip our sarsaparillas and beers and enjoy the evening’s songs, dances, jokes and skits.

Laura and I ride out of Dodge early Sunday morning. The weather is beautiful. We stay off the interstates, have brunch at The Trading Post in the Kit Carson, Colorado, and enjoy the long ride to Monument.

A herd of bright white antelope lent some western excitement to the end of our trip when they bounded across highway 94. A

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car hit one, sending it onto the shoulder, and a straggler from the herd came across the road between Laura and me. We managed to avoid any antelope entanglement and enjoy the evening with Laura’s mother, who lives not far away in Littleton and joined us at Cindy’s house in the hills above Monument.

Our Memorial Day journey to historic

The evening variety show in the Long Branch Saloon.

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skills

askapro

The science of turning your bike

By Lee Parks #162125

Q:

Lots of dirt miles taught me that on an off-camber slope, weight on the outside peg was the best practice which also, I think, has benefits in offcamber paved turns. My question: When riding quickly through any paved turn, shouldn’t the weight be on the outside peg, forcing the tires into the road? I have done this from time to time, and the machine feels more solid and connected to the roadway, but I have not heard a pro’s thoughts on this.

A:

That’s an excellent question that has many riders disagreeing about the answer. So let’s break it down to understand the component parts of the issue. To begin with, the dynamics of street and dirt riding are very different. In street riding you want to lean your body to the inside of the motorcycle. This will maximize ground clearance and prevent the suspension from getting upset as the bike leans over, thereby maximizing traction. Maximizing traction will minimize the bike’s tendency to slide.

On the dirt, the bike will always be sliding, so our goal switches to better slide control. If you know the bike will be sliding, you want the bike’s yaw pivot point (steering axis) to have the majority of the mass as close behind that point as possible. This means you want the rider’s body as close up to the steering axis as possible. If the rider’s body is too far back from the yaw pivot point (far back in the seat), it acts like a pendulum making the bike want to spin out.

The second important pivot is the roll axis. Here is where weighting the

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

outside peg comes into play. By putting all the footpeg weight on the outside peg, the bike can lean independent of the rider without adding the rider’s mass to the rolling pendulum effect.

On the street, because we generally don’t want the bike moving independently of the rider in regular road speed turns, weighing the outside peg becomes irrelevant. In fact, as long as your body’s centerline doesn’t change in relation to the bike’s centerline, it doesn’t matter how much weight in being put on the inside versus outside peg.

doesn’t mean it works for everyone.

When it comes to off-camber turns, they are not any different from flat or positivecamber turns in relation to riding technique. As far as “forcing the tires into the road,” the bike’s tires don’t respond any differently based on weight being put on the inside versus outside peg. The resultant force is the same as long as the body position is similar.

On the other hand, the machine feeling “more solid and connected to the roadway” is a feeling unique to the user. Only the

WHETHER YOU’RE BUILDING MOTORCYCLES OR DISSECTING RIDING TECHNIQUE, THE SCIENTIFIC METHOD SHOULD ALWAYS BE YOUR GO-TO PARTNER. A perfect example of this was 1980s GP icon Randy Mamola. Like many GP racers, Randy is very short, and there are many famous images of him with his outside foot dangling completely off the peg. This was because when he really hung off the bike his short legs couldn’t reach the outside peg. Given that he was the runner up four times in the overall world championship and beat some of the best riders of all time, including Kenny Roberts, Freddie Spencer, Eddie Lawson, etc., it hard to imagine that weighing the outside peg was critical for success.

This is not to say that some street riders don’t feel more comfortable by weighting the outside peg. Multiple-time 250GP national champion Rich Oliver is infamous for his insistence that his footpegs be placed just so. It’s been reported that even 20 millimeters off of ideal could interfere with his mojo. Because confidence is so important to all of us riders, this is not a small point. If a particular peg weighting makes you feel more comfortable or confident, by all means do it. However, that

individual rider can speak to that. The big thing to keep in mind is the difference between things being positively correlated versus having a causal relationship.

Multi-time Olympic gold medalist Michael Phelps swears that “cupping” helps his performance. After all we could all see the cupping bruises on his body while he won yet more medals in the Olympics.

Does that mean that cupping benefits swimming performance? I’ve never seen any evidence or peer-reviewed studies that confirm that assertion. However, he swears that it helps. Similarly, watch how many supercross racers make a cross sign on the starting line and give “Jesus” or “the man above” the credit when they win. Strangely, they never blame him when they lose. Does that mean “the man above” is busy watching motorcycle races and picking favorites rather than curing diseases or healing amputees?

Obviously, just because two things are correlated does not prove a causal relationship. Reg Pridmore to this day taches about the importance of “body steering.” The

idea is that by pushing your outside knee into the tank, it makes the bike turn. Keith Code made the “No B.S.” training bike with two sets of handlebars—one on the steering controls and the other connected to the frame. This allows riders to try to steer the bike with only body steering inputs only to discover that it doesn’t work.

That doesn’t mean that when Reg steers his bike with the handlebars that he isn’t also pushing his knee into the tank. It only means that the knee is not responsible for the steering input. However, it clearly shows that pushing his knee into the tank makes him feel more comfortable/confident so there is no reason to not do it. Personally I wouldn’t teach this as a scientific riding technique, as there is no science behind it, but I would also never tell a student not to do it if it makes them feel more comfortable.

Whether you’re building motorcycles or dissecting riding technique, the scientific method should always be your go-to partner.

Lee Parks (162125) has been riding and racing motorcycles for well over 33 years. He has been the editor of both consumer and trade motorcycle magazines, manufacturers his own line of motorcycle gloves and is a WERA national endurance champion. His riding skills book Total Control has sold over 100,000 copies in five languages around the world. Lee’s Total Control Training company manages—and is the curriculum vendor for—the California Motorcyclist Safety Program as well as several large military contracts. If you have a question you’d like to him to answer in this column, send him an email at lee@totalcontroltraining.net.

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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lifestyle 96

jacktheriepe

Gassing up with purpose...

By Jack Riepe #116117 SPRING

WAS

barely new in 2006, when I said to the the love of my life (de jour), “My club is celebrating Cinco de Mayo with a special dinner celebration. Do you want to come?” Now the expression “my club” conjures up all kinds of images for the worldly BMW rider. Some envision a stately country club, surrounded by green lawns and soothing ponds. Others think of a staid urban brownstone, heavy with oak wainscoting and tradition. In both cases, an orchestra plays while waiters move through the crowd with hors d’oeuvres and colorful cocktails.

These images are popular because this is how it is with the majority of chartered BMW motorcycle clubs.

My home club is the “Mac-Pac Eating and Wrenching Society,” a loose confederation of alpha dogs representing the creme de la creme of Teutonic moto circles in southeastern Pennsylvania. And this beautiful woman, who eventually regained her senses and tossed all my stuff in the street, deduced dinner would be like Friday night in Juarez spilling out of a repurposed garage, complete with the sound effects and other aspects associated with tear gas. This Cinco De Mayo was to be celebrated with a chili cook-off, featuring no less than ten varieties of simmering death, accompanied by Mexican beer and rum. She declined to attend.

Chili suppers have been linked with motorcycle riders since 1519, when Hernan Cortez first rode a BMW “R” bike into the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan, looking for the Fountain of 94 Octane Gasoline. The

BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

Aztecs had nothing but “87 Regular,” and offered Cortez and his BMW-mounted posse 100 beautiful maidens instead. Being true “R” bike riders, they were only interested in getting something to eat and gas.

Not being familiar with this approach to riding, the Aztecs assumed eating and gassing were a cause and effect type situation.

Chili was served. In his diary the following day, Cortez wrote, “The after-effects of dinner hath left my saddle blistered and scorched...Yet the nether wind I leave behind me has added 15 miles per hour to the overall speed of this bike. For the first time ever, I passed a donkey laden with sacks of grain on a level stretch in less than 10 minutes.”

Classic Tex-Mex chili can be made in a thousand different ways, combining the culinary traditions of a great country and a vast neighboring state, into a myriad of flavors. Chili can be made “con carne,” with chicken, pork, or beef, or without “carne,” which is like getting kissed through a screen door. It can be made with green chili peppers, hot chili peppers, molé (touch of chocolate), chipotle (smoked chili peppers), radioactive chili peppers, chili peppers grown in a graveyard for the damned, and chili peppers that predate fireworks in China. Some of the smallest Mexican chili peppers were used to blow bridges by French partisans in World War II. East of the Mississippi River, chili is sometimes thickened or sweetened with peanut butter.

(The less said about this the better.) It should be noted that true chili aficionados cook the beans separately from the meat, serving them as a side dish.

Dinner was what I expected and exactly what my future former lover had forecast.

The garage carried the aroma of a Mexican meteorite. The Mexican beer was cold, and the sangria was potent. The conversation was explosive. A dozen BMW riders were embroiled in a dialogue regarding the

half-life of crush washers, and tensions were building over the inflated importance of OEM oil filters. Against this contentious backdrop, I sampled every kind of chili. My favorite was made with Armadillo meat, chili peppers that grew in the shape of red skulls, and additional flavoring derived from scorpion tails. It was simmered in a stone crucible. Mexican bread, claimed to extinguish the fire in your mouth, was served in abundance. Turns out the bread was made with chili flour and Hoppes Number 9. By the end of the evening, my esophagus was a tanned leather tube.

The ride home was uneventful. Like all K75’s, mine started in under two seconds.

The bike performed flawlessly, with the kind of whine one expects from a new bride. The evening was cool, and the road was smooth. The contents of my stomach had yet to percolate. I started thinking of how these club dinners drew people together and how close I felt to those around me after one concluded. I’d left the dinner early, as I was leading a group on a cultural outreach run early the next day.

Ten guys signed up for my Annual Amish Horsepile Swerve Ride, a two-day run that would take us no farther than 60 miles from home, but deep into the territory of Amish separatists.

The good feeling evaporated as soon as I closed the garage door.

“You are sleeping down here, on the sofa,” said the love of my life. “And you will use the downstairs bathroom until further notice.”

“But my love...” I crooned.

“You smell like a Mexican festival,” she said. “And that’s the good news for the moment.”

She added that my right eye looked like a pressure gauge and my left was flashing “caution.” She’d covered the sofa with a painter’s tarp and tossed me an asbestos blanket. The last thing I heard was this

beautiful woman sprinkling thumbtacks and broken glass on the stairs so I couldn’t follow. The bedroom door closed with the finality of a submarine hatch. It was an hour before dawn when I was awakened by distant thunder. I realized the growling boom was neither distant nor thunder. It sounded more like a bed sheet ripping and came from within the sofa.

You cannot take the chance with authentic Mexican food, and I headed into the downstairs bathroom. This was a jewel box of a water closet. She’d hand-painted the walls with a falling leaf motif and hung a vacant paper wasp nest in an upper corner.

The wasp nest was the size of a basketball and decorated with little glass yellow jackets. (She removed the decorative wasps when she found a screaming cleaning woman hitting the whole thing with a broom.) A soft, flickering light from an enormous candle filled the room. The candle was in a 9-inch diameter galvanized bucket and sported three large lit wicks. It was an industrial strength fragrance candle generating the kind of perfumed vapor

capable of concealing an asphalt plant. It was barely enough. I released enough explosive gas to inflate a zeppelin over the next five minutes and the closed door was marginally adequate to mute the transaction.

I was about to return to the sofa when I thought about the candle. My late father had been a fireman and he always said, “Never turn your back on a lit candle.” I blew all three wicks into darkness.

There was just enough predawn light to watch thick white smoke rise from each wick. The plumes seemed to entwine and hit the smoke detector as one solid genie of a cloud. Interconnected smoke detectors went off in nine rooms. These detectors had been manufactured by the Chernobyl Alarm Company of Yakbuttski, Russia, and could be heard six blocks away. The dogs started barking, too. I heard footsteps moving across the upstairs floor, followed by the sound of a submarine hatch being forced open.

A cranky woman’s voice hissed, “I can’t believe it. You finally took a dump that set

off the smoke detectors. Why don’t you write about that?”

Well, it’s ten years later, and I just did.

This story is a partial chapter taken from Jack Riepe’s third book in his moto series.

Titled The Motorcycle Rider’s Diet, this book is scheduled for release in the spring of 2017.

The revised edition of Conversations With A Motorcycle is in production, and the sequel, Motorcycles Speak Louder Than Words, will be released this winter. Riepe is retiring from public life, to pursue a career as a piano player in a Brazilian bordello next year. On his way south, he plans to visit as many local rallies as he can (east of the Mississippi).

Want a public speaker for your local rally?

Have your rally chair contact Jack Riepe at jack.riepe@gmail.com His two current presentations are: “Which came First: The Motorcycle Or The Divorce;” and “Using A Motorcycle to Build Strong Relationships In Third and Fourth Marriages.”

www.globalrescue.com/partner/bmwmoa November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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lifestyle

highmileage

Congratulations MOA High Milers

By Jim Heberling #191926 C O N G R AT U L A -

tions to our new High Mileage Honor Roll members and to 14 members reaching a new plateau. These 24 members have distinguished August 2016 as the month receiving the most High Mileage applications since our records have been kept. It’s great to see the MOA High Mileage Award means so much to so many members. Special congratulations to Minnesota MOA member Skeeter Kopacek for reaching 900,000 miles, and thank you to our members for sharing their stories this month.

Daniel Maheux #99025 Boischatel, Quebec 100,000 Miles

Maheux says his favorite bike was also his first BMW, the R 1100 RT he owned for seven years and also the bike he accumulated the most mileage with. His current ride is a K 1600 GTL which Maheux enjoys for it’s maneuverability, power and comfort.

Close to home, Maheux enjoys day rides that allow him to make loops and enjoy the beautiful scenery he’s

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

100,000 miles Mark Beckman Bruce Davis Daniel Maheux James Row Terry Collins Reece Mullins Arthur Laschober John Coker Tom Buckley David Klingensmith

200,000 miles Barbara Smith Paul Kocab Pattie Malik Cliff Sawyer Robert Hunt Jerry Barron

300,000 miles

Darryl Thompson Bil Reed Rick Griffith

riding through. While on vacation, he’ll use the opportunity to take longer rides to discover new places. Maheux recalls his most memorable ride taking him to the city of Nashville, Tennessee, to enjoy the atmosphere of the city and some of the best country music around. On his way there, Mahuex was able to ride the Blue Ridge Parkway, Skyline Drive and the Tail of the Dragon.

“The scenery was magnificent,” he said.

A BMW rider for the last 15 years, Maheux has always enjoyed riding with a friend or two, however, now that his children are grown he spends most of his time on a motorcycle riding with his wife.

Congratulations Daniel!

Reece Mullins #143779 Enterprise, Alabama 100,000 miles

My first BMW was a 2005 R 1200 RT that I named Ursula. Together last spring we spent the seven greatest days of my life attending the MOA’s Getaway at Fontana Dam riding the Tail of the Dragon, Cherahola Skyway as well as many other great roads in that area.

400,000 miles Ken Gotzen-Berg Doug Teague

500,000 miles Bruce Enterline Darryl Cainey

900,000 miles Skeeter Kopacek

Though I retired from the Army, I still work for the Army and much of our more than 100,000 miles together were accumulated while riding back and forth to work or riding to visit my family in Tennessee from my lower Alabama home.

Last summer, I sold Ursula to new MOA member David Colvin of Ozark, Alabama.

Ursula was my mainstay and we went everywhere together. She was my introduction to the world of motorcycling, BMW and the MOA. As David rode off, it was sad to see them ride off together into a sudden summer rain. Though I was sad, part of me was glad that I was able to pass something I cared about so deeply with another soul.

With Gretchen, my new 2016 R 1200 RT, I look forward to someday receiving a 200,000 mile award and the new chapters of adventure that we will write together.

Congratulations Reece!

John Coker #153695 Boulder, Colorado 100,000 miles

John Coker’s current ride is a 2009 BMW R 1200 GS. Living in Colorado, he believes the GS is perfect for the plains, mountains and

www.machineartmoto.com

forest roads he rides.

Last year, Coker and a group of friends from the BMW Club of Colorado visited all four geographic corners of the state of Colorado.

Coker says everyone knows about the “four corners” in southwest Colorado, but the other three are accessible via dirt roads and not easy to find without some research.

The northwest corner proved to be the most challenging but worth it. On the ride, the group covered about 2,000 miles and passed through eight states over four days to complete the ride.

Coker rides a lot with the BMW Club of Colorado, with many of his miles coming after the group’s Saturday morning rides where they usually head to the mountains to ride the twisty roads there. While he also participates in other club rides and both single and multiple day destination rides, Coker says the majority of his miles have been accumulated by riding to California to visit family and taking a different route every time he goes there.

“Over half of my miles have been solo,” he said. “I really enjoy just taking off with no plan and seeing what happens. While I enjoy riding with other people, I find riding alone is the most relaxing and fun, as I only have to answer to myself.”

Congratulations, John!

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

99

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highmileage

Cliff Sawyer #117390 Lincoln, Nebraska 200,000 miles

Cliff Sawyer’s first BMW was a 2004 R 1150 R and will always be remembered as his favorite. Though Sawyer says each new bike he purchased included improvements over the previous, the R 1150 R was the bike that opened up a new world to him.

Sawyer says his trip to Alaska in 2011 aboard his ’07 R 1150 R was an adventure of a lifetime and remains his favorite. Always headed somewhere on his bike, Sawyer is a fan of Grand National flat track racing and rides to several each year. He also enjoys riding through National Parks and historic sites and over the years has visited 49 states, Canada and Mexico.

Sawyer always travels along and quoting Rudyard Kipling, “he who travels fastest travels alone.”

Bil Reed #98128 Jacksonville, Florida 300,000 miles

Over the years, Bil has owned five GS models, two R 1100s, one R 1150 and two R 1200s. Reed put more than 100,000 on his first R 1200 and more than 95,000 on his current R 1200 GS that he bought new in 2008.

“Obviously, the R 1200 GS is my favorite,” he said.

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

Though he’s not riding as much nowadays, Reed believes he’ll reach the 400,000 mile marker by 2018 and says he usually rides alone but will occasionally ride with a friend or two. Favorite destinations include rallies in Georgia, Tennessee, North Carolina and West Virginia on the roads he considers to be some of the best in the country.

His most memorable ride was in May of 2007 when he rode from Jacksonville, Florida to Alaska on a route that took him through Montana and to Calgary, Alberta, where he mounted a set of new tires and continued across the Canadian Rockies to Hyder, Alaska. Along the route Reed recalls temperatures in the 50s, lots of snow, bear, moose and spectacular scenery.

Congratulations, Bil.

plethora of twisties and the Triple Nicke and the covered bridges in Indiana seem to be his favorites these days.

Griffith says he usually rides with a small group including close friend Mark Mathes, who he’s been riding with since 1989 after meeting after joining the BMW Touring Club of Detroit at the same time and riding to the Battle Creek BMW club’s mini rally that spring.

Over the years, Griffith says he and Mathes have gone to so many places together including National rallies, national parks, track days as well as weekly club breakfasts.

“Mark picked up a 1974 R 90 S a few years ago and we restored it together, so it’s been a special friendship over the years,” he said.

Rick Griffith #49177

Farmington Hills, Michigan 300,000 miles Rick Griffith’s favorite bike is the 1974 R 90 S that he’s owned since 1980.

Before the S, Griffith said he rode was riding Harley’s and while the Harleys did teach him to be a decent technician, despite his efforts he still found himself stranded more often than not.

The S showed him the country with trips to Key West in 1981, Big Bend National Park in 1983 and Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons in 1986 along with many, many more.

Griffith believes his first trip to the Blue Ridge Parkway in the early 90’s was his favorite and where he felt he experienced true nirvana.

“I didn’t know anything like that even existed, he said, 470 miles without a traffic light or a stop sign? Beautiful asphalt bordered by Kentucky bluegrass and 12-foottall azalea’s and rhododendron?”

He’s been back a few times over the years and most recently on his R 90 S in 2012 where he did an “Old Guys on Old Bikes on Skinny Ass Tires” tour. Riders joining Griffith on the ride were friends riding a R 75 /5 and a R 100 S and his brother in law and Griffith aboard their R 90 S’.

Though Griffith says he used to plan big trips every year that included riding out west, down south or out east, over the past five years or so he’s discovered better roads closer to home. Southeaster Ohio with its

We have the same riding style, riding quicker when the conditions merit, so it feels natural and stress free, when riding together.”

Darryl Cainey #40164 Fenwick, Ontario 500,000 miles

Darryl Cainey began riding at the age of 14 aboard his Honda Super Cub. He got his license two years later on his 16th birthday.

Cainey rode a few British and Japanese bikes before buying his first BMW, a 1977 R 100 RS. Over the next 28 years, that RS took Cainey and his wife Terry from coast to coast with his most memorable trip taking them to the Grand Canyon in 1991.

Two and a half years ago Cainey bought a new bike, a 1993 R 100 GS and looks forward to many more rides.

Congratulations Darryl!

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101

lifestyle 102

mileageslaves

Time to pack it in … or not

By David Cwi #28490 DEAR MR. CODE,

Let me start by saying I think you are for sure the best person to render an opinion on the subject at hand. And here’s why: Every day at your Super Bike School you no doubt see men and women of all ages, with some returning, I suppose, for more training over the years. And perhaps also to the point, you yourself are of a certain relevant age, or at least so I would assume from your website. The site includes your biography and this statement: “In 1952, Keith sees someone riding a motorcycle and is mesmerized at age 7.” So you are just short of the age that prompts me to get in touch, and like some of us, you don’t just like motorcycling but are “mesmerized” by it.

We’ve got some Raiders who been on rides from time to time over the last 15 years—yup, hard to believe there’s been a “group” at it that long— and now some are getting to be your age or older. So there we are, coming back from the run to Hyder, Alaska, having met up in Vancouver and now sitting down for dinner and just chatting. At the table is a Raider who rolled across the USA in a rush to get to Vancouver and just ran to Hyder for the fun of it. He now quite nonchalantly says the following at dinner: “When I’m 70, I’m going to park my Track Day bike and when I’m 75 stop riding motorcycles all together.”

(And here is the kicker. He teaches at Track Days and has a race bike.)

I just stared at him, a bit thunderstruck, as it never occurred to me that anyone would think that way.

But then not everyone has had a

BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

career as a commercial pilot. Maybe he retired at age 65 because they kick you out of the cockpit at age 65 irrespective of your interest in staying there. It’s the law, believe it or not. So I am guessing that he approaches motorcycling that way. In his head I guess he has a kinda-sorta “sell by date.” Hit that age, and you are done. So I am looking at this guy who just rode a ride most will never do, and he is telling me that “soon” he is done with motorcycling, apparently irrespective of any factor other than age.

You can be sure, Mr. Code, that I mentioned this conversation to others. For example, Raider #1 is now 74 and surviving a bout with cancer, so he towed his bike to Nova Scotia but then got on it, as he is still recovering. Ladies’ Man (now Lover Boy) had this to say: “Why just stop riding? It all depends on how you feel.” Or does it?

I do confess that this issue has me more focused on the riders at rallies and what they are doing and saying, especially folks I’ve seen over the years who return annually. One not uncommon refrain: “I sold my (fill in the blank) to get a lighter bike.”

And they can be pretty precise about what that means. Easier to hold up when they put their foot down at a stop and the road falls away. Easier to move around in the parking lot. Easier to handle at slow speed.

And I keep seeing various three wheel contrivances in increasing numbers.

But the commercial pilot guys do, I suppose, have a point. As the saying goes, “It is better to be on the ground wishing you were in the air, than in the air wishing you were on the ground.” The logic of an agespecific “you are done” requirement may be that when it comes to piloting an aircraft there is no room for error. At some point, age is a factor in reflexes, situational awareness, reliance on meds, and the onset of maladies that impact performance. You are not as strong where strength is required.

Rather than trying to pinpoint when the risk of error is great, just pick an age and be done with it.

The other option is to change how to you approach motorcycling—witness the guys going with lighter bikes or three wheelers.

In Raider #1’s case, we started to lie to him about how far we were riding on each day because he was fine if he did not know how far we were riding. But that only worked once or twice. As I write this, I am aware of one long time Raider who no longer rides at night.

Mr. Code, I get it that I might get off a track bike if I saw that I was endangering others on the track or if I was scared. I am aware that my friend crashed on the track and smashed up his wrist. But if he was scared, he would have stopped back then. I could understand it if I noticed a subtle change in my performance, so that the mind saw it, but the body could not perform it. Now that by itself would just slow some guys down, so their ride envelope was in keeping with their reliable performance. On the street, maybe they leave more distance between themselves and the next car and slow down. On the track, they drop down a class (which I guess is the right way to put that and sorry, Mr. Code, if I did not). And I could see that if you could not perform “the way you love and once did” then not doing it at all (rather than mourn the loss) might be the reason to stop. And truth be told, I’ve thought about it that way myself.

I know that being scared is what got the Divine Ms. Cindy out of motorcycling. She came to doubt her skill set, and with doubt comes anxiety. I remember one event in particular. We were in Nova Scotia, and the motel parking lot required a trip up a hill and a left slow speed turn on this incline near the top, without of course putting a foot down. She asked me to get her bike up the hill. That one event might have been

longer looked strange; they did seem to be having fun.

Back in the day I would vend at events, showing up pulling a trailer so loaded up it weighed more than the bike. After a few years the trailer got parked. I then turned my K bikes and the new-to-me RT into pickup trucks loaded up with camping and other stuff. At the start of each trip I’d bring Cindy out to the garage to show off my next generation “perfect packing.” Now I have seen those Spyder machines with their custom trailers. And if towing a trailer is your thing, maybe they are the ideal contraption, so maybe, just maybe …. nah…. but at least it’s something to think about.

But I don’t want to think about it, Mr. Code. In fact, I don’t have too because I’ve benefitted all these years from Raider Physics. Time stands still if you go fast enough.

Or so it appears to the rider. Maybe I have that wrong, but for sure if you stay fast you back up time. But it only works if you also put in the miles, as miles take time and sometimes seem to make time stay real still in the now of the moment and the ride.

Mr. Code, because I am writing you about this subject, I am suddenly either paranoid or maybe not paranoid but for the first time aware of the potential perils of slowing down. Maybe the world of time delayed might rush forward in accordionlike waves until time caught up with me, and that, no doubt, would be a shock to the system and my heart. But I digress, or maybe I don’t.

I feel the need to stop this letter, Mr. Code and get on the move. And I look forward to hearing your “take” on guys who teach track days and when they should stop. But right now I need to get moving.

See you down the road.

Regards, Dancin’ Dave

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

www.ztechnik.com

the first nail in the coffin.

I remember talking to Don Douglass, aka “Douglass,” back in the day. “Don, the day I can’t ride 650 miles, party my eyes out, and get back on the bike and ride home…that’s the day I park it.” So basically my performance requirements back then, before the Divine Ms. Cindy, were quite simple. Get rolling at first light. Find the rally party by dinner time. Have a great time. Get rolling first light next day. Get home safe. Douglass just laughed at me.

Mr. Code, I remember thinking that it was a good idea to take a cue or two from well-known riders. So, at one rally I did a seminar where I invited Dave Swisher to attend so I could ask him how his riding changed as he got older. Now Dave was the first rider I’d known to hit and then blast through 1 million miles. He simply noted the impact of a hip issue painful enough that he had to get off the bike well before the tank was dry to stretch, and he did that frequently. But he still rode. At least I think it was a hip. But you get the point.

I get it, that if someone could not do what he wanted to do the way he wanted to do it he might get an attitude, to wit, Why Do It At All? And if he saw that coming, I mean if in his head “it was just a matter of time” and that time was near, I could envision he would pick a day and just pack it in.

Maybe that’s what the pilot was doing.

What’s your take on this, Mr. Code? What’s the right way to approach this?

In my own case I’m fairly sure I’ll never have to deal with it. More on that in a minute. But once the conversation started, the guys were intent on teasing me.

“What’s the matter, Dave? We can see you on one of those Can Am Spyders with an aux fuel cell. That’s what you’ll do, Dave.

You’ll never give it up. You can be the pack mule and show up with the other guys riding behind.”

I have to confess that this idea had zero appeal until I was coming back from the national rally. At one point one of those contraptions blasted past me at full speed, and the guy and his female companion no

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lifestyl

finaljourney

Dorothy Szymanski

By Tim Colburn #3842 WE IN THE CHICAGO REGION BMW

Owners Association are saddened to report the passing of long-time former member Dorothy Szymanski, BMW MOA #21948. She was the wife for 63 years of former member Mitchell Szymanski (#2006), who died one year ago. Dorothy passed away on

June 8, 2016, and a memorial service was held for her on June 25. She was a kind, caring and elegant person who had many interests and talents.

Dorothy was an excellent ballroom dancer, and in fact she met Mitch at a dance when they were teenagers. She was also an excellent cook, seamstress, painter, gardener,

and flower arranger. For many years, she owned and rode her own BMW motorcycle, participating in local club activities and traveling with her husband and other Chicago Region members to rallies and events all over the country.

She is survived by her three children, Mitchell Jr., Jane, and Christine; her sister; four grandchildren; and a great-grandson.

Robert E “Robb” Warren

By Don Denny MOA # 899 Ambassador ROBB PASSED AWAY MONDAY,

April 4, 2016 from an inoperable brain tumor. Born on December 27, 1940, in Chicago to Eddson T. Warren and Lucille (Rager) Atkinson he is survived by two brothers, Mark (Marla) Atkinson of Kalamazoo, Michigan, and Michael Atkinson of Phoenix, Arizona, and four nephews .

After high school, Robb served his nation by joining the Army and though volunteering to go to

Vietnam, was sent to Germany and was honorably discharged in 1969. Robb retired from the Champaign, Illinois, Post Office, where he received a Merit Award when he found and saved one of his customers disabled on the floor.

One of Robb’s first rides was on a Lambretta scooter that he rode to Florida and back to Illinois. After spending several days of 45 mph riding, Robb bought a new 1971 BMW R 75/5 at Underwoods BMW in St. Joseph, Illinois, and was an early member

of BMW MOA (member #476).

He gave me my MOA application and when I joined was assigned member #899.

Robb’s hobby of searching for collectibles and riding BMWs kept him busy in his retirement. Robb’s many adventures in life gives his friends stories to remember him by during our East Central BMW Riders club functions.

BMW and Harley-Davidson motorcycles.

Described as a “typical kid,” Talbert spent a great deal of time outdoors camping, hiking, canoeing and surfing. Atypical, however, was a youth spent in far-flung locations such as Panama, Japan, Hawaii, Seattle, Pensacola, San Diego and Ames, Iowa due to his father’s naval career.

In 1963, Talbert and his two younger brothers moved to Pasatiempo, California, outside Santa Cruz, and eventually attended

Soquel High School. However, before graduating, Talbert entered the Marine Corps.

On May 28, 1968, Talbert was one of 88 Marines of Foxtrot company, 2nd Battalion, 3rd Marine Regiment who were engaged by a North Vietnamese Army battalion of more than 500 men near Khe Sanh. During the fighting, known today as the Battle for Foxtrot Ridge, 13 Marines died and 44 more were wounded; in addition, 230 enemy soldiers were killed.

Neil Talbert From the Santa Cruz Sentinel RETIRED LANCE CPL. CORNELIUS

“Neil” Talbert, 69, of the U.S. Marine Corps was struck and killed by a car Friday while riding his motorcycle south on Highway 17 near Redwood Estates.

A decorated veteran of the Vietnam War who suffered extensive wounds in combat, Talbert spent much of his life reaching out to other wounded soldiers and pursuing his passion for

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BMW OWNERS NEWS November 2016

“Neil woke up in a hospital in Japan and, at the time, assumed the rest of his regiment were dead,” said brother Haran Kandadas, who changed his name from Peter Talbert.

“After he came back to the States, he spent a year in Oak Knoll Hospital up in Oakland.”

Talbert’s left foot had been shattered by gunfire; his right knee had been destroyed; he suffered shrapnel wounds in his back; and he had bullet fragments in his right arm, which caused nerve damage. He also suffered from a profound case of PTSD, which made it difficult for him to be social, according to Kandadas.

Despite these injuries, Talbert worked for the University of California for nearly 10 years before devoting his time to helping other veterans and riding his beloved motorcycles.

A lifelong rider, Talbert favored BMWs and Harley-Davidsons, but also owned a Vespa scooter he enjoyed riding. He was an early member of the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America and rode extensively with the unaffiliated Santa Cruz HarleyDavidson owner’s group after bonding with other Marines.

Over the years, he participated in numerous long distance rides to raise awareness for U.S. military veterans and the Wounded Warriors organization, including a 2008 cross-country trip to the Vietnam Memorial in Washington, D.C. “He took charcoal rubbings of 16 names on the wall of friends he had served with in Vietnam,” said Kandadas. “It was 40 years to the day after he was injured.”

When Santa Cruz police detectives Loran “Butch” Baker and Elizabeth Butler were shot and killed in the line of duty in 2013, Talbert designed a memorial insignia featuring a black banded Santa Cruz Police Department shield that officers and the public displayed prominently for months.

“He was a remarkable person,” said Kandadas.

Survivors include his girlfriend, Sally Hess; two brothers, Haran Kandadas (Peter Talbert) and George Talbert; son, David Talbert; daughter, Alison Talbert; cousin, Marcia Talbert, stepmother, Patricia Talbert and step-sister Cindy Rutan.

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

105

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BMW OWNERS NEWS  November 2016

Email your event information to editor@bmwmoa.org

4 1

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November 1

11/4/2016 – 11/6/2016

46th Annual South Central BMW Owners Reunion Location: Fayetteville, Texas Contact: Nick Bell vp@bmwclubofhouston.com 713-818-0134 Enjoy guided road rides, social events, and dinners on Friday and Saturday night, breakfasts Saturday and Sunday. For details see the event web page at bmwclubofhouston. com/cms/club-rally

2

11/5/2016 – 11/6/2016

Touring Club of Detroit 29th Annual Edmund Fitzgerald Run Location: East Tawas, Michigan Contact: Mike Eckstein, veep1@bmwtcd.org Enjoy the brisk fall Michigan weather with this longstanding TCD tradition. Annual camp-out at Tawas Point State Park on Lake Huron. Saturday afternoon, ceremony on the shore to pay tribute to the 29 brave sailors lost from the Edumund Fitzgerald to the icy waters of Lake Superior.

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11/11/2016 – 11/13/2016

15th Annual Cajun Swamp Scooter Rally Location: Lafayette, Louisiana Contact: swampscooters.net Come have a good time with us. Great food with great music. Kick some tires and tell some lies. The roads are not great, but the food is the best.

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MOA Getaway Marble Falls, Texas

Detailed information for all events is available online at: bmwmoa.org

Location: Marble Falls, Texas Contact: Paul Mulhern ,pmulhern@swbell.net This year’s weekend getaway in Marble Falls, Texas is centered in the heart of the highland lakes region of the state and the host hotel will be right on the water. This area has something for everyone.

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BMWNEF Winter Rally

Location: Northeast Florida Contact: lemeeker904@comcast.net 904-278-9262 Chill out at Camp Blanding on beautiful Kingsley Lake in Northeast Florida for the 34rd annual BMWNEF Winter Rally; Florida’s Coolest Rally!

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

109

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BMW ON (ISSN:1080-5729) (USPS: 735-590) (BMW Owners News) is published monthly by BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Inc., 640 S. Main Street, Suite 201, Greenville, SC 29601. Periodicals postage paid at Pewaukee, Wisconsin and additional mailing offices. Opinions and positions stated in materials/articles herein are those of the authors and not by the fact of publication necessarily those of BMW MOA; publication of advertising material is not an endorsement by BMW MOA of the advertised product or service. The material is presented as information for the reader. BMW MOA does not perform independent research on submitted articles or advertising.

POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO BMW ON, 640 S. Main Street, Suite 201, Greenville, SC 29601 © 2016 by BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Inc. All information furnished herein is provided by and for the members of BMW Motorcycle Owners of America, Inc. Unless otherwise stated, none of the information (including technical material) printed herein necessarily bears endorsement or approval by BMW MOA, BMW NA, the factory or the editors. The editors and publisher cannot be held liable for its accuracy. Printed in the USA. Volume 46, Number 11.

November 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS

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talelight

Mud bath

After completing three days of riding on the Great Divide Route through Colorado, Wallace Gingerich found the mud on his license plate a fitting exclamation point.

Photo by Wallace Gingerich #115500

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BMW OWNERS NEWS  November 2016

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