Grégoire Rossier
Grégoire Rossier Anthony Marquié l
CHRONOMASTER CHRONOMASTER ONLY ONLY The Super-Chronograph by Nivada
Centenary edition
watchprint com publications on jewellery and watches
© 2026, 2nd updated and enlarged edition, Watchprint.com Sàrl, Martigny © 2018 Watchprint.com Sàrl, La Croix-sur-Lutry All rights reserved. Any reproduction of this work in whole or in part is forbidden. Any Tous droits réservés. Toute reproduction, même partielle de cet ouvrage, est interdite. copy or recording by any process including photocopying and photography and on any Une copie ou reproduction par quelque procédé que ce soit, photocopie, photographie, medium including microfilm, magnetic tape, disks or other storage devices constitutes an microfilm, bande magnétique, disque ou autre, constitue une contrefaçon passible des infringement of authors’ rights punishable by copyright laws. peines prévues par la loi sur la protection des droits d’auteur. ISBN 978-2-940506-75-0 ISBN 978-2-940506-26-2 Publishing Managers: Fabrice Mugnier and Suzanne Wettstein Direction éditoriale : Fabrice Mugnier et Suzanne Wettstein English Translation: Susan Jacquet, Transcribe Photos : Luca Garbati Photographs: Luca Garbati Impression : Daneels Graphic Group, Belgique Printing: Daneels Graphic Group, Belgium Pour découvrir toutes nos publications sur les montres et bijoux, consultez notre site See our publications on watches and jewelry on our website, www.watchprint.com Internet www.watchprint.com 2
TABLE DES MATIÈRES CONTENTS Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 5 Préface Foreword
Introduction Introduction 1 Introduction 11
1 Croton CrotonNivada Nivada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Croton NivadaGrenchen Grenchen 10 11 Grenchen 10 2 AUn ASuper-Chronograph Super-Chronograph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 16 Super-Chronographe 16 22 3 Understanding Understanding the referencesde ofChronomaster Chronomaster models 23 Comprendre les Références 23 33 the references of Chronomaster models . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Main Components 2 Les Eléments Constitutifs Components 1 An original approach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 22 Main
Une Approche Originale 32 2 An Caliber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 11 original approach 32 Le Calibre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 34 3 Caliber Caseband 44 22 La 44 4 Caseband DialCarrure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 48 33 Le Cadran 48 5 Dial Bezel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 118 44 5 Bezel La Lunette Hands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 . 118 124 56 6 Hands Les Aiguilles Caseback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 . 124 134 67 7 Caseback Le Fondand Pushers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Crown . 134 146 78 La Couronne et les Poussoirs 146 88 Crown and Pushers 146
Models 3 Les Modèles 1 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 33 Models
Introduction 156 2 Models fitted with the Venus 210 caliber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 162 11 Introduction Modèles équipés du Venus 210 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 162 Models fitted withthe theCalibre Valjoux 92 caliber caliber 178 232 Models fitted with Venus 210 3 Models Modèles équipés du 92 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 176 Models fitted withthe theCalibre Valjoux Valjoux 23 caliber 196 34 fitted with Valjoux 92 caliber 4 Models Modèles équipés du Valjoux 23 Models fitted withthe theCalibre Landeron caliber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 . 194 234 45 fitted with Valjoux 23248 caliber 5 Models Modèles équipés du 248 232 Models fitted withthe theCalibre Valjoux Landeron 7733 250 56 fitted with Landeron 248caliber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . caliber 232 Modèles équipés du Calibre 7733 248 66 Models fitted with the Valjoux Valjoux 7733 caliber 248
Buyer’s Guide 4 Guide d’achat Guide Choosing a Chronomaster model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 44 1Buyer’s Choisir son Modèle Chronomaster 11 Choosing a Chronomaster model
275 275
The Revival of Nivada Grenchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 5 Contributions Contributionsand et Remerciements 284 Acknowledgments 284
Contributions and Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308
33
Introduction Introduction
CROTON NIVADA GRENCHEN CROTON NIVADA GRENCHEN
Five different badges
It is possible to distinguish five badges
Over the years CROTON’s activities ex-
among the Chronomaster models:
panded considerably as it accumulated a
• NIVADA and NIVADA GRENCHEN
wide range of watch models under its name.
(with or without logo) for watches
In 1970, the company seemed to have
marketed by NIVADA SA outside the
changed its name, becoming CROTON
United States;
TIME CORPORATION INC.
• NIVADA GRENCHEN, CROTON NIVADA GRENCHEN, CROTON, and CROTON 1878 (with or without logo) for watches sold by CROTON WATCH CO. INC. (later CROTON TIME CO. INC.) in the United States.
in in front of of thethe premises of Photograph taken taken in inAugust August1970 1970 front premises thethe company henceforth known as CROTON TIME CORPOof company henceforth known as CROTON TIME RATION INC. CORPORATION INC Acknowledgement: The Society. Acknowledgement: TheCroton CrotonHistorical Historical Society.
This change can be seen engraved on movements from that time on (see Part 2. Main components, Chapter 2. Caliber, page 34). It also appeared to coincide with the introduction of a new identification, CRO-
14
TON 1878, which emerged on the models
advertises a NIVADA GRENCHEN A New NewYork Yorkretailer retailer advertises a NIVADA GRENCHEN
in the collections of the time.
Chronomaster in inthe the1960s. 1960s
1 /1
NIVADA watches sold in It should GRENCHEN be noted that NIVADA the United States appear sold to have marGRENCHEN watches in been the Unitketed by CROTON WATCH CO. INC. ed States seem to have been marketed by rather than directly NIVADA as CROTON WATCHbyCO. INC. SA, rather indicated by their CROTON-specific refthan directly by NIVADA SA. erenceare codes (seegiven Chapter 3, p. 23). They in fact a reference code that However, early 1970s, is specific in to the CROTON (see Nivada Chapterap3. pears to have begun marketing some of Understanding the references of Chronoits watches under master models, page its 23).own name, using the designation Nivada WATCH CO., as
Story’s evidencedend by a particular Chronomaster In the featuring 1970s, thea distinctive watch industry had to model Nivada logo confront the quartz shock immediately afand a gold-plated movement engraved ter the oilWATCH crisis of CO” 1973.(see It was a difficult “Nivada p. 222). time for the whole sector and proved fatal
Story’s for some end brands that lacked the means to In the 1970s, watch industry had to fight off Asian the competition. confront them the quartz immediately afAmong wereshock NIVADA SA and ter the oil crisis ofCO. 1973.INC., It was a difficult CROTON TIME which failed time for with the whole sector to cope the times andand hadproved to givefatal up for some brands that lacked the means to their businesses. The two brand names fight changed off Asianhands competition. have several times since and Among NIVADA SA and still exist them today,were but they have nothing in CROTON TIME CO. INC., which failed common with their prestigious predecesto cope with the times and had to give up sors. their isbusinesses. The twotobrand names That why it is impossible find archives have severalabout timesmodels since, or anychanged official hands information but came they have nothing with that out before the in endcommon of the 1970s. their prestigious predecessors. That is why it is impossible to find archives or any official information about models that came out before the end of the 1970s. In 2018, Nivada was revived, as detailed in Part 5 (p. 284 onwards). A NIVADA NIVADAadvertisement advertisementofof1966. 1966
15
Main Components Main Components
Dial
The evolution of Chronomaster Chronomaster dials dials evolution of
for for illustrative purposes. This isisaanon-exhaustive non-exhaustiveoverview overview illustrative purposes.
60
22//4
byNIVADA NIVADA and CROTON by CROTON
for for illustrative purposes. This isisaanon-exhaustive non-exhaustiveoverview overview illustrative purposes.
61
Main Components
Hands
Configuration B3. Painted Baton 2 / Lollipop 2 References examined • 85004/3730 (dials NIVADA GRENCHEN with logo)
Style
Couleur
Luminescence
Hours
baton (1)
white
tritium
Minutes
baton (1)
white
tritium
red
tritium
white
–
Chrono. seconds lollipop type 2 Small hands (1)
baton
Long tritium groove.
Configuration B4. Painted Baton 2 / Triangular References examined • 85004/4076 (dials NIVADA GRENCHEN with logo) and 0/4076 • 85017/4531 and 85017/5312
Style
Color
Luminescence
Hours
baton (1)
white (2)
tritium
Minutes
baton (1)
white (2)
tritium
red (3)
–
white (4)
–
Chrono. seconds triangular Small hands (1)
130
baton
Long tritium groove.
(2)
Black on the E4 dial.
(3)
Orange on the C7 and C8 dials.
(4)
Black on the E3 dials.
2 /6
Configuration B5. Painted Baton 3 / Triangular References examined • 85017/4773
Style
Color
Luminescence
Hours
baton (1)
white
tritium
Minutes
baton (1)
white
tritium
Chrono. seconds
triangular
red
–
Small hands
baton
white (2)
–
(1)
Hours: short tritium groove; minutes: long tritium groove.
(2)
Black on the gray counters.
Configuration B6. Painted Baton 4 / Straight References examined • 105/903006 (4-figure s/n)
Style
Color
Luminescence
Hours
baton (1)
white
tritium
Minutes
baton (1)
white
tritium
Chrono. seconds
straight
red
–
Small hands
baton
white
–
(1)
Shorter tritium groove than on the previous models.
131
Models
Venus 210 Caliber
CNG – CHRONOGRAPH High SWISS This entirely original example of the Chronomaster/Chronograph is in perfect condition. The SWISS inscription in a higher position is what differentiates this model from the previous one.
Popularity
¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ 1/2
Reference
105 (5-figure s/n + 5-figure s/n)
Caliber
Venus 210 CROTON, NIVADA SA GRENCHEN
Caseband
1. 1st Generation
Dial (1)
A5. CNG – CHRONOGRAPH High SWISS
Bezel
1. Pointed Top 4
Hands
A1. Large Broad Arrow / Metal
Crown
A2. 36 Teeth
Pushers
1. Small
Caseback
A4. SHOCKRESISTANT Small
(1
On this reference can be found the rare transitional dial type A4. CNG – CHRONOGRAPH Double SWISS, in which the second SWISS inscription is often invisible because it is situated too low beneath the minutes scale on the dial (see page 170).
172
Models
Venus 210 Caliber
NIVADA GRENCHEN – CHRONOGRAPH High SWISS This is an extremely rare example of a Broad Arrow model featuring “NIVADA GRENCHEN” and “CHRONOGRAPH” on the dial, powered by the Venus 210 caliber.
Popularity
¬¬¬¬¬
Reference
8221 M 9688 (7-figure s/n)
Caliber
Venus 210 NIVADA
Caseband
1. 1st Generation
Dial
A6. NIVADA GRENCHEN – CHRONOGRAPH High SWISS
174
Bezel
1. Pointed Top 4
Hands
A1. Large Broad Arrow / Metal
Crown
A2. 36 Teeth
Pushers
1. Small
Caseback
A2. SHOCKPROTECTED
The Revival of Nivada Grenchen
TIMELINE 2018
2020/04
2020/12
2021/07
Revival of Nivada by Guillaume Laidet and Rémi Chabrat
Presentation of the first four Chronomaster
Delivery of the first four Chronomaster models
Two new models: Broad Arrow with Nivada logo, Nivada Special Logo
2024/09
2024/09
2024/09
2025/01
The Landeron 70 caliber gradually replaces the Sellita SW510 M BH B
Chronomaster models are offered with five interchangeable bezels
Optional transparent caseback. The standard caseback is redesigned
Last models fitted with the automatic Sellita
Features and Developments Cases
a manual-winding version with the Sellita
Its specifications remained comparable,
The stainless-steel cases measure 38 mm
SW510 M BH B was also introduced and
with a thickness of approximately 7.9 mm
in diameter, identical to the vintage Chro-
ultimately accounted for more than 80%
due to the automatic winding mechanism.
nomaster models, except for the 2025 au-
of sales. At the beginning, automatic refer-
tomatic version, which was increased to
ences carried the suffix “A”, while manual
Dials and Hands
41 mm. Thickness varies depending on the
versions used “M”; later, the “M” suffix
Future customers also influenced certain
movement and caseback, with three types
was used for both versions.
aesthetic choices, such as the color of the
available depending on the model: flat,
In 2024, the manual-winding Sellita was
luminous material. Initially planned in a
medallion (bas-relief), or transparent. The
replaced by the Landeron 70. Technically
yellowish “faux patina” shade reminiscent
domed crystal is sapphire, and water resis-
similar, both operate at 28,800 vph and use
of vintage models, it was also offered in
tance is rated to 100 meters.
a cam-operated chronograph mechanism.
white from the launch. This configuration
The Landeron has 32 jewels compared
is identified by the addition of the letter
Movements
with 23 for the Sellita, while the latter of-
“W” to the reference, for example 86007M
During the development of the Chrono-
fers a longer power reserve and a slimmer
(vintage shade) and 86007WM (white).
master, only an automatic version, pow-
profile (7.0 versus 7.6 mm).
ered by the Sellita SW510 BH B, was ini-
The following year, the automatic version
tially planned. At the request of collectors,
adopted the Landeron 72 and a 41 mm case.
288
5 /1
2021/12
2022/02
2022/10
2022/12
Limited editions Paul Newman and Big Eye with Valjoux 23
Broad Arrow Tropical
Blue, red, green or two-tones GMT bezel
Collaboration with Forstner on steel bracelets
2025/05
2025/10
2026
Two limited editions with the Valjoux 23: the Broad Arrow and the Blue Aventurine
Automatic versions enlarged to 41 mm and fitted with the new Landeron 72 caliber
Launch of three special models to celebrate the 100 th anniversary of Nivada
available on request
Bracelets
Interchangeable Bezels
This system modernizes a concept first in-
The choice of straps and bracelets is quite
From 2022, Nivada offered a choice of five
troduced by the brand in the 1960s with
extensive, generally including three black
bezels in different colors, fitted according
the women’s COLORAMA VI collection
or brown leather straps, a “Tropic”-style
to the customer’s preference. In 2024, cus-
and later carried over to the Fiber Star in
rubber strap, and several steel bracelets,
tomization evolved with the inclusion of
1970. It was made possible by a new sys-
including the famous “Beads of Rice” and
five rotating, interchangeable bezels that
tem for securing the bezel to the caseband.
various models developed in collaboration
could be swapped by the customer with-
A “GMT” version also allows the time in
with Forstner.
out tools.
several cities around the world to be read. The blue bezel, initially offered with a tachymeter scale, now features a 0–60 scale, like the other three.
289
The Revival of Nivada Grenchen
Orange Boy The Orange Boy features a black dial
in 2020, and subsequently incorporat-
Since then, collectors’ research has estab-
with honey-colored counters and, above
ed the various developments introduced
lished that this stylized logo appeared on
all, an orange arrow-shaped chronograph
across the range.
models intended for the US market in the
seconds hand, which gave the model its
A second version, launched in 2021, is dis-
late 1960s and marketed by Nivada Watch
nickname. It is inspired by a 1960s ver-
tinguished by its light gray counters and a
Co., the distributor of Nivada Grenchen
sion with light gray counters (pp. 220–
distinctive logo, which we called “Special
SA that probably succeeded Croton at that
221).
Logo” (SL) in the first edition of this book
time (p. 53).
The first version was part of the initial
(pp. 222–223), a nickname later adopted by
models unveiled and launched by Nivada
the brand.
Launch
2020 (N logo), 2021 (SL)
Reference
N logo: 86006A, 86012M SL: 86015M
Movement
*manual / **automatic
Caliber
Sellita SW510 M BH B (then Landeron 70)* Sellita SW510 BH B**
Diameter (mm) 38 Thickness (mm) 13.75* / 14.8** Length (mm)
294
46.5
Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver: this singular name belongs to one of the most original professional watches of the 1960s, combining an unparalleled number of functions with a timeless design. Created in 1960, this chronograph was produced for around ten years under several brand names, through a partnership between the Swiss company NIVADA SA and the American firm CROTON WATCH CO. This led to some of its dials bearing probably the most complicated name in watchmaking history: CROTON NIVADA GRENCHEN Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver. Thanks to the authors’ trademark rigorous methodology, the signature of the “ONLY” reference works, this book reveals the incredible diversity of the Chronomaster models. It is intended both as an initiation for connoisseurs of exceptional watches and as a reference guide for collectors. This legendary watch will doubtless thus regain the place it deserves among the most desirable 1960s chronographs. For this centenary edition, a chapter on the brand’s revival in 2018 has been added.
ISBN 978-2-940506-75-0
G