Exploring the Coral Tri angle, the Amazon of the Ocean

Exploring the Coral Triangle, the Amazon of the Ocean

As one of the most important reef systems in the world, the Coral Triangle, covers 132,636 km across six countries; Indonesia, Malaysia, Papua New Guinea, the Philippines, the Solomon Islands and Timor-Leste. It occupies just 1.5% of the world's total ocean area, but represents a full 30 percent of the world's coral and fishes in the world. In fact, when it comes to biodiversity, it is like nowhere else in the world. More than 75 percent of the world’s coral species–over 600 species– which is ten times the number in the Caribbean Sea, live in the Triangle, fifteen of are endemic to the region, means they are not found anywhere else. But the coral is only the start of the diversity in this living system. Of the 6,000 currently known species of reef fish, 37 percent of the world’s coral reef fish live in parts of the Triangle. Two hundred and thirty-five of those species are found nowhere else. It is also a home to six out of the world’s seven marine turtles. So do aquatic mammals like blue whales, sperm whales and dolphins and endangered species like dugongs. If coral reefs are the rainforests of the seas, then the Coral Triangle is the underwater equivalent of the Amazon. Just as the Amazon is the figurehead of the world’s rainforests –the so-called lungs of the earth – the Coral Triangle is developing iconic status as a marine treasure –the wellspring of the world’s oceans. That’s why the bioregion is quickly gaining a global profile as one of the planet’s most valuable natural assets, comparable to the Amazon. But, like most coral reefs around the world, the Coral Triangle is under threat. The reef is coming under pressure from multiple angles. Ille-

gal, unreported, and unregulated fishing is a major threat to its fish stocks, marine ecosystems and overall fisheries sustainability of the area. Localized threats like cyanide fishing damages fish communities and the surrounding environment. Also, the continuing growth of mass tou-rism, while generating economic wealth to a developing region, is currently often at the expense of its natural assets. Another huge threat, like anthropogenic climate change, which is warming the seas as they become more acidic, resulting in conditions where many species of coral can’t live. On top of that, coral bleaching and white syndrome are immediate threats to many species of coral that dominate the Triangle–the Acropora corals. But there’s hope that parts of the Coral Triangle may be refuges for marine life. “High levels of biodiversity, coupled with fast rates of growth and recovery, put many Coral Triangle ecosystems in a favorable position to survive climate change,” writes the World Wildlife Fund. And with the growing awareness of the crisis facing the world’s oceans – and more specifically coral reef ecosystems – the need to highlight the impacts of overfishing, pollution and climate change has never been keener.

The Triangle region has high potential to use tourism to help support conservation. With its numerous natural attributes, mix of marine based cultures and globally significant status as a fishery, the Coral Triangle makes for fascinating subject matter. There are sharks that walk the ocean bed, marine nomads who spend their lives at sea, constant new species discoveries and incredible destinations waiting to be uncovered. The reef and coastal areas are major draws for the tourism industry and represent a significant economic resource for the region’s countries. The marine and coastal region offers exotic locales with a great diversity of unique and colorful cultures, and the environment provides wildlife viewing delights in terms of whale watching, turtle nesting, as well as bird and fish spotting. Not surprisingly the coral region is a haven for SCUBA divers and snorkelers, and an increasing number of specialist groups are catered for with charter vessels and dive packages.

Coastal tourism has begun to mature and diversify in the western market with increasing emphasis on special interest aspects such as nature-based adventure tourism, ecotourism and wildlife watching and cultural tourism. Tourist spending on coastal and marine- based eco-tourism in the Coral Triangle is increasing each year, suggesting that the economic extent of habitat- and wildlife conservation is progressively more important for the national and local economies of the member countries. In order to have exciting wildlife encounters with flagship marine species, an increasing number of tourists are visiting Marine Protected Areas (MPA's) to participate in SCUBA diving and snorkeling activities. This growth can impose additional challenges on local governments that are already stretched for resources. Local governments often struggle to ensure that developments for visitors are built and operated sustainably; they have to manage increased productions of waste, provide sufficient water and energy supplies. Some Coral Trian-

gle governments have introduced measures to counter these adverse consequences of tourism development by setting daily visitor quotas for marine parks or investing in essential support infrastructure. Various non-profit organizations have been developing tools to help the nature-based tourism industry operate in a more sustainable way, for example by providing guidelines and support for non-intrusive interaction with wildlife, sustainable food and beverage, garbage disposal solutions and reducing energy consumption.

The following is a small cross-section of some current Nature-based Tourism operations in each of the Coral Triangle countries. They are not intended to be representative of the offerings in each country, but rather to highlight some examples of varying scales and with a range of different characteristics. Timor-Leste: Dive Timor Lorosae, Dili

Based in Dili, Dive Timor Lorosae (DTL) was one of the first dive shops established in Timor-Leste just over 10 years ago and is the country's only PADI 5 Star Instructor Development Centre. DTL offer a full range of professional PADI dive courses and daily diving trips. They have their own Hotel/Apartment, Guest House and Backpacker accommodation in Central Dili. They work with local organizations to organize regular beach clean ups to raise awareness about marine debris, and to mark World Oceans Day and Coral Triangle Day. They also work with organisations to undertake underwater scientific expeditions & biodiversity monitoring. Solomon Islands: Oravae Cottage

Oravae Cottage is a collection of 3 small guesthouses located on a private island overlooking a lagoon just off the mainland near Gizo. The company has helped establish a locally managed marine area around their premises and relies on solar power and tank water to ensure a low environmental impact. They have also established coral and clam farming projects and work with local schools to raise awareness on the importance of marine conservation. Papua New Guinea: Madang Resort Hotel, Madang

The Madang Resort Hotel is a more mainstream resort based at the entrance to Madang Harbor, facing onto Dallman Passage and Yamilon Lagoon. Niugini Diving Adventures, a dive shop and PADI Dive training facility, is part of the resort complex. The company promotes sustainable management of marine and forest resources by the local communities to foster community tourism as part of its sustainable development agenda. The town and province of Madang is described as ‘a place where travelers can experience a diverse range of cultural and natural attractions.

Philippines: Lagen Island Resort

Set in a cove surrounded by primary forest, Lagen Island Resort promotes itself as a showcase of El Nido’s flora and fauna, with opportunities for wildlife sightings. El Nido Resorts (which includes Lagen Island) have been involved in preventing illegal fish-

ing, rehabilitating watersheds and environmental education programs. In 2011, El Nido Resorts was selected to take part in the European Union-sponsored ‘Zero Carbon Resorts’ program, which aims to reduce the tourism industry’s carbon footprint. El Nido was also the recipient of the ‘Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award 2009’ and was a finalist for the ‘Tourism for Tomorrow Awards 2007’. Indonesia: Misool Eco Resort, Papua

Located on a private island off West Papua, Misool Eco Resort is a collection of 9 luxury cottages, with the resort structured financially to also provide a direct contribution to local marine conservation activities. Misool Eco Resort has gone to great lengths to reduce both the impact of its own operations, whilst also extending its environmental responsibility to the area surrounding the resort. With the full cooperation of the local community, Misool established a 465km No-Take Zone, with local staff regularly patrolling the area to prevent fishing and shark fining. For its environmental efforts, Misool was highly commended by the ‘Virgin Responsible Tourism Awards’ in 2009, while it also received an ‘Ocean Award’ in 2011. Malaysia: Kuala Sepetang Eco Tourism

Kuala Sepetang Eco Tourism is a tour provider based in Kuala Sepetang, adjacent to the Matang Mangrove Forest Reserve. Their focus is on promoting responsible tourism, environmental conservation and education, and providing tours that are both low impact and sustainable – and involve the local community. As well as general tours to the mangrove forest, they also offer Indo-Pacific Humpback and Irrawaddy River Dolphin viewing tours, Firefly viewing tours, and river tours including bird watching. The Matang Mangrove Forest Reserve is Peninsular Malaysia’s largest surviving spread of mangrove forest, most of which has been extensively cleared for development. The 40,000-hectare area was gazette as a Permanent Forest Reserve in 1906 and is recognized as one of the best-managed sustainable mangrove ecosystem in the world.

AMAZING ALASKA

If there is one place in the world where anyone can try an adventure cruise experience, it is Alaska. America’s 49th state is superbly equipped to provide a great range of outdoor activities and expeditions. The first thing you notice when you reach America’s 49th state is the magnificent snow-capped mountains lining the distance. These rugged, majestic peaks are perfectly positioned to emphasize the dramatic landscape as they slope all the way down to jagged trims of Sitka Spruce trees, still dressed in their evergreen coniferous foliage. Tall and towering above the forest floors, these trees line the waterways and stretch across the great expanse of wilderness that is Alaska. Positioned starkly against these awe-inspiring structures are the elegant and slow-moving channels of water of the Alaskan archipelagos, which cut their way through the landscape as though intricately carved all the way to the ocean. These winding waterways of the Inside Passage will guide you between the mountains on your Alaska cruise, revealing remote towns and cities along the way. In simple terms, Alaska is the world’s great nature theme park. It is tailor-made for cruising in the south-east and it opens the door to a magnificent array of activities, from salmon fishing to sledge-dog rides and kayaking to glacier trekking. Travelling by sea opens up a vast range of territory in what remains largely untouched wilderness and there are a lot cruise lines offering voyages in this region; Carnival, Norwegian or Royal Caribbean; Holland America, Celebrity or Princess; Oceania, Azamara or Windstar; and ultra-luxe lines Regent, Crystal, Silversea or Seabourn. There are also specialist small-ship companies such as National Geographic and UnCruise Adventures. It is a positive cornucopia of choice, but the bottom line remains all the ships visit largely the same areas, even though the two specialists get more off the beaten track. Cruise season in Alaska begins in May and ends in September. The schedule sometimes includes a few sailings in late April or early October as well. There are only minor differences in weather by month. Temperatures are warmest in July and August, but even in May you can expect temperatures in the mid-50 and mid-60s. Anchorage is also much drier than other parts of Alaska, the wettest month, August,

Skiff expedition to Tracy Arm

only still only averages about 10 rainy days. You might also find a little extra elbow room and a few deals in May, early June and September. Late summer sailings have one other tantalizing prospect: by late August, the skies of Alaska are once again dark during the night. That means aurora viewing is a possibility.

ALASKA’S REGIONS

ANCHORAGE CITY SCENE - Urban and wild aren’t opposites; they are Anchorage’s two defining elements. There’s no need to choose one or the other since they are both parts of life here. Anchorage lives under midnight sun and auroras. The city’s adventures may be beyond belief, but they aren’t beyond the boundaries. INSIDE PASSAGE - Shaped by the staggering force of massive glaciers millions of years ago, Alaska’s Inside Passage boasts wildlife-filled fjords and lush island scenery — habitat for bald eagles, sea lions, porpoises and whales. Its mountains are carpeted with majestic forests. SOUTH CENTRAL - Home to over half of Alaska’s population, South central is a playground of activities from world-class fishing to hiking and wildlife viewing. With mountains and lakes, South central offers the advantages of remote wilderness but is linked via roads. SOUTHWEST – The region’s terrain ranges from a landscape of volcanoes in Katmai National Park created by the 1912 eruption of the Novarupta volcano, herds of caribou to the state bird, the willow ptarmigan.

to the windswept Aleutian Islands that make a 1,000-mile sweep toward Asia. INTERIOR - In Alaska’s heartland, you’ll see the continent’s tallest peak, Denali, and wide expanses of tundra.

Royal Caribean Ship sailing Alaska’s glacier

ARCTIC COAST - Alaska’s Arctic is home to the Inupiat Eskimos, many who still live a subsistence lifestyle and still preserve their history verbally from generation to generation. The Arctic is filled with a rich history and natural wonders, from the gold rush days of yore to the Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve. This is one of Alaska’s most diverse regions, filled with cultural opportunities, wildlife and a landscape ranging from coastal plains to mountain ranges.

TOP ALASKAN PORTS OF CALL

KETCHIKAN - Ketchikan is known for three things: Native Alaskan (Tlingit) totem poles, Misty Fjords National Monument and the city’s distinction as the “salmon capital of the world.” The main draws include opportunities to visit Saxman Native Village and learn about the totem poles in the area, or enjoy The Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show. The show is staged within walking distance of the cruise port and it’s the place to see athletes wielding axes and saws in traditional lumbering activities. Kayak or cruise tours of Misty Fjords are incredibly popular and you can also sightsee by floatplane or city trolley, bear-watch, fish, hike through a rainforest and try active adventures like a canoe safari, Zodiac expedition, zip-lining or join a Bering Sea crab fishermen’s tour.

JUNEAU - Alaska’s capital city is interesting because no road leads from here to the rest of the state. It’s at the base of Mount Juneau and you can only get there via boat — even residents have to bring their cars to Juneau via ferry. Home to Mendenhall Glacier, this is a popular port for a variety of shore excursions. Look for kayak and bike adventures, a ride in the sky on the Mount Roberts Tramway (the pickup point is right at the cruise port), wildlife-viewing trips (whale, bears and more), fishing outings, glacier visits (Mendenhall, Taku and Tracy Arm Fjord) and even fun culinary trips such as an Alaska salmon bake or a craft beer tasting. You can go to a dogsled camp, pan for gold or take a helicopter and land on Mendenhall Glacier. SKAGWAY - Alaska’s Gold Rush history, Skagway — 90 miles northwest of Juneau — is a port that shouldn’t be missed. In fact, it’s the gateway to the Klondike and Dawson’s mining district in Canada’s Yukon Territory where prospectors searched for gold in the late 1890s. The historic district still has a Wild West feel though a bit commercialized for the modern era. This port can get crowded in the heat of summer when several ships can call on the same day. Tours include panning for gold, a snowshoeing expedition and rides on the White Pass Rail. Also a visit to a waterfall, hike the Chilkoot Trail, explore Glacier Point by ATV, and helicopter flight-see the area’s glaciers or rock climb and rappel. SITKA - Sitka is a working town that has more going for it than just tourism. Commercial fishing is still a major player here. Another thing that sets Sitka apart from other Alaskan ports is its Russian heritage. See St. Michael’s Orthodox Cathedral with its onion dome and the Russian Bishop’s House. Tours include a nature safari by 4×4 or sea kayak, visit the Alaska Raptor Center, go bird and bear-watching, dry-suit snorkel or book a “ghosts of Sitka” city walk. Guided fly fishing and a sea otter quest are also available, along with Tongass National Forest nature hikes, a bike and hike combo tour and local pub crawls.

Raja Ampat, an unspoiled biodiversity sanctuary

Located off the northwest tip of Bird's Head Peninsula on the island of New Guinea, Raja Ampat is an archipelago comprising over 1,500 small isles, cays and shoals. It is a part of the newly named West Papua Province of Indonesia which was formerly Irian Jaya and is mostly the domain of liveaboards. Translated to mean “Four Kings”, Raja Ampat mesmerizes with the enigmatic beauty of its limestone island clusters, spawned out of legendary myth and continuing to bewilder and captivate explorers with dramatic landscapes that shelter secret lagoons, bays and beaches. The myth goes that each King reigns over one of four main islands, Misool, Salawati, Batanta, and Waigeo.

Raja Ampat’s world-class wildlife excursions are both on the ground and underwater. It is here that famous 19th-century naturalist Alfred Russell Wallace had stumbled upon species of the bird of

paradise that exist nowhere else but in this region on Earth. Catching sight of the otherworldly beauty of the Wilson’s bird of paradise and the Red bird of paradise and their mesmerizing behavior is arguably one of life’s most rewarding wildlife experiences. These winged wonders live alongside 350 other bird species, including forest kingfishers and king parrots. Meanwhile, Raja Ampat’s many beaches are often the nesting ground for turtle species including the Pacific leatherback, the largest of all living turtle species on Earth, while the world’s most extensive network of mangrove forests support populations of dugong and juvenile fish. Raja Ampat is also a designed a Marine Protected Area (MPA) by the Indonesian government. Aside from its endless fascinating natural attractions, Raja Ampat also offers the distinct hospitality of the Papuan. At the Arborek Tourism Village, you can stay at a number of

homestays and mingle with the locals whilst observing their daily life and unique traditions. When a group of tourists arrived, they usually perform a traditional welcome dance right at the dock and entertained the ‘guests’ with various Papuan folk songs.

As part of the Coral Triangle made up of Indonesia, the Philippines, Malaysia, the Solomon Islands, Papua New Guinea and East Timor, the Raja Ampat Islands boast a tropical climate with constant mild

temperatures. Weather and water conditions in the area are generally good year round. However, you should always plan ahead, given that, in addition to the usual wet and dry seasons of Southeast Asia, Raja Ampat also has a windy season. Raja Ampat in October to April is the dry season, though there can be some heavy rains in December and January. That said, these rains are usually brief and localized. May to October in Raja Ampat bring the wet season, but again, the rains usually do not last more than a few hours and are less dramatic than in other parts of Southeast Asia. June and July in Raja Ampat is unofficially known as the windy season, when waters may be rougher. This should not affect snorkeling conditions but may mean that small boat cruises will be moderately less comfortable, especially for travelers prone to seasickness. There is no best time to see wildlife or enjoy the snorkeling in Raja Ampat because there is always something to see all year round.

Raja Ampat has many great liveaboard options, from basic and mid-range liveaboard boats to some of the luxurious boats in the world. The liveaboard operations in the area are renowned for their service and hospitality. Most of the liveaboard vessels depart from the coastal city known as Sorong and Wasai, both located in the Indonesian Province of West Papua. To ensure maximum convenience for their guests, liveaboard operators usually offer transfer services from Sorong Airport and hotels directly to and from their boats or vessels.

Natives in Raja Ampat

Top Dive and Snorkel Spots

Blue Magic - Possibly one of the most abundant cleaning stations you will ever encounter. Blue Magic lives up to its name; you will not know where to look first.

Cape Kri - Drift Cape Kri’s sloping wall to see pygmy seahorses in ornate fan corals as turtles and reef sharks pass by in the blue, and then enjoy the schooling sweet lips on your safety stop. Possibly for more adventurous snorkelers, Cape Kri has a strong current. But for those willing to fight it, you will be rewarded with black and white tip sharks, huge schooling groupers and lots of sweetlips.

Sardine Reef - Soft coral and black coral bushes populate the entire Sardine Reef area. While barracuda, jacks and giant trevallies swirl overhead, schools of fusiliers, butterfly fish and snappers follow you along with the current.

Chicken Reef - You will not see any chickens, but we can guarantee a lot of sharks. White tip reef sharks are a common sight here. There is marine life in all shapes and sizes; you will see anything from pygmy seahorses to turtles to schools of bumpheads chomping their way through the reef.

Mioskun - It is a good reef for beginners, as the currents here are relatively light in comparison to other sites. Expect abundant yellow snappers, wobbegong sharks, octopus, morays, and walls of schooling fusiliers.

Tamaku Reef - It is a picture perfect coral reef hidden in the heart of the Manyaifun.

Sauwandarek Village - Jump in at the jetty and see schools of friendly angelfish, and the resident Napoleon Wrasse. A reef runs the length of the beach and is full of life. You could snorkel away a day here easily.

Friwen Wall - It is an alien underwater world. The overhang is home to all kinds of critters, bizarre and brightly colored corals, fans and fishes. It is like nothing you have seen before.

Arborek - Famed for its jetty, which is undoubtedly good. But swim 100m past it and you will find the sweet spot. There is fish frenzy just before sunset.

Misool - The archipelago includes the main island of Misool along with dozens of karst islets. The base of these tiny islands has been eroded by water and time, giving them the appearance of giant stone mushrooms sprouting from the turquoise waters. At Tomolol Bay, visitors on Raja Ampat cruises can swim within the island’s fascinating cathedral-like cave, an unforgettable experience. To play Indiana Jones, drift among the islets in search of prehistoric cave paintings and undersea graveyards. Batanta - Small boat cruises to Batanta take visitors into its lush jungle interior. Local guides from the coastal village of Arefi lead travelers through mangrove forests to a series of spectacular waterfalls. The more adventurous will hike deep into the jungle and see still taller and bigger falls, but all visitors will be given the opportunity to swim and relax in natural pools surrounded by mangrove trees and the sounds of island birds. Waigeo - The archipelago’s largest island, is nearly bisected by the massive, fjord-like Mayalibit Bay. Here, visitors explore the island’s awesome caves, led by a guide from Lopinol village. Visitors will also trek to Sapoken village where they will not only enjoy a close look into local life on the island but may also learn about conservation and community-building efforts in the region. The village of Sapoken is also one of the best spots to see the Red Bird of Paradise and Wilson’s Bird of Paradise. Salawati - The 3rd largest island in Raja Ampat, Salawati is a serene destination for those looking to unwind and relax. Dive sites are mostly shallow and in small bays or beaches and offer good muck diving and relaxed snorkeling.