Visual Arts New Books July-September 2021

Visual Arts New Books Catalogue

July-September 2021 FAIRCHILD BOOKS

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Podcast

The Bloomsbury Academic Podcast is more than just a book talk. Each episode is its own unique forum, bringing Bloomsbury authors and experts to the front of the conversation and tackling key issues in today’s culture, both in academia and beyond. This show is for everyone interested in expanding their learning outside the classroom and exploring the difficult discussions taking place in society every day.

Season two is forthcoming in May 2021 on our website, Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.

Contents Architecture �������������������������������������������������������������� 2 Art and Visual Culture Drawing �������������������������������������������������������������������������� 3 Philosophy & Politics of Art �������������������������������������������� 4 Anthropology of Art ������������������������������������������������������ 4 Art Markets �������������������������������������������������������������������� 5 Art History �������������������������������������������������������������������� 5 Art & Popular Culture ���������������������������������������������������� 6

Design �������������������������������������������������������������������������� 7 Fashion

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Key to Symbols

Fashion History �������������������������������������������������������������� 8 Fairchild Books �������������������������������������������������������������� 9 Fashion & Culture �������������������������������������������������������� 10 Fashion Design ������������������������������������������������������������ 12

Textiles ���������������������������������������������������������������������� 13

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Companion website or online resources available.

Major Reference Works ������������������������������������������������ 14 Representatives, Agents & Distributors ������������������������ 17

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V I S U A L A R T S – Architecture

25 Concepts in Modern Architecture

Restorative Cities

Stephanie Travis, George Washington University, USA & Catherine Anderson, George Washington University, USA

Jenny Roe, University of Virginia, USA & Layla McCay, Centre for Urban Design and Mental Health, UK

A Guide for Visual Thinkers

Designed to appeal to visual thinkers, this simple yet visually-powerful guide explores 25 key architectural concepts by examining 25 different masterworks of modern architecture.

Understanding these concepts provides a key to demystifying the greatest works in modern architectural history, inspires new ways to think about new design projects, and reveals how drawing and sketching are used as tools for the visual analysis of architecture.

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 272 pages • 410 colour illus PB 9781350055605 • £26.99 / $36.95 ePub 9781350055582 • £24.29 / $30.79 ePdf 9781350055575 • £24.29 / $30.79 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Urban design for mental health and wellbeing

Explores a new way of designing cities, one which places mental health and wellness at the forefront. Establishing a blueprint for urban design for mental health, it examines a range of strategies – from sensory architecture to place-making for creativity and community – and brings a genuinely evidence-based approach that will appeal to designers and researchers alike. Written by a psychiatrist and public health specialist, and an environmental psychologist with extensive experience of architectural practice, this much-needed work will prompt debate and inspire built environment students and professionals to think more about the positive potential of their designs for mental well-being.

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 272 pages • 62 colour illus PB 9781350112889 • £24.99 / $34.95 • HB 9781350112872 • £75.00 / $100.00 ePub 9781350112896 • £22.49 / $28.32 ePdf 9781350112902 • £22.49 / $28.32 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Health and Architecture

Making the Arctic City

Edited by Mohammad Gharipour, Morgan State University, USA

Peter Hemmersam, Oslo Centre for Urban and Landscape Studies, Norway

The History of Spaces of Healing and Care in the Pre-Modern Era

Health and Architecture offers a uniquely global overview of the healthcare facility in the pre-modern era, engaging in a cross-cultural analysis of the architectural response to medical developments and the formation of specialized hospitals as an independent building typology. Deploying new methodological, interdisciplinary and comparative approaches to the analysis of healthcare facilities, the essays in this collection demonstrate how the spaces of healthcare themselves offer some of the most potent and functional articulations of therapy.

UK May 2021 • US May 2021 • 400 pages • 100 bw illus HB 9781350217379 • £100.00 / $135.00 ePub 9781350217393 • £90.00 / $112.10 ePdf 9781350217386 • £90.00 / $112.10 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Strayed Homes

Cultural Histories of the Domestic in Public Edwina Attlee, Bartlett School of Architecture, UCL, UK Part architectural history, part cultural history Strayed Homes is an exploration of overlooked, everyday places where private and intimate activities take place in public. Across 4 chapters set in 4 small, liminal spaces - the launderette, the greasy spoon, the fire escape, and the sleeper train - it follows a series of allusions and impressions, to explore how films, adverts, books and anecdotes shape experiences of everyday architecture. Making a case for the poetic interpretation of space, the book can be used as a sourcebook for architects and designers as well as for theorists.

UK September 2021 • US September 2021 • 272 pages • 55 bw illus HB 9781350213869 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350213883 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350213876 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

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The History and Future of Urbanism in the Circumpolar North

Making the Arctic City explores the unwritten history of city-building in the Arctic over the last 100 years. Spanning northern regions of North America, through Greenland, Iceland, Svalbard to Russia, this is the first book to provide a truly circumpolar account of historical and contemporary architecture and urbanism in the Arctic – and it shows how the Arctic city offers valuable lessons for the post-colonial study of architectural and urban planning history elsewhere.

UK July 2021 • US July 2021 • 272 pages • 47 bw illus HB 9781350235854 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350235885 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350235878 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

The Architectural Models of Theodore Conrad

The "miniature boom" of mid-century modernism Teresa Fankhänel, Architekturmuseum der TUM, Germany This book tells the story of Theodore Conrad (19101994), the most prominent and prolific architectural model-maker of the 20th century. With exclusive access to Conrad’s archives - as well as those of model photographer Louis Checkman – both of which have lain undiscovered in private storage for decades – this book examines Conrad’s work and legacy, accompanied by case studies of his major commissions and full-colour photographs of his works.

The book ultimately presents an alternative history of American modern architecture, exploring how Conrad’s models prompt broader scholarly questions about the nature of authorship in architecture, the importance of craftsmanship, and about the translation of architectural ideas between different media.

UK July 2021 • US July 2021 • 240 pages • 150 colour illus PB 9781350152830 • £27.99 / $37.95 • HB 9781350152847 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350152861 • £25.19 / $32.02 ePdf 9781350152854 • £25.19 / $32.02 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

www.bloomsbury.com • UK, Europe, ROW • +44 (0)1256 302692 • orders@macmillan.co.uk

Ornament and Sentimentality in the Architecture of Louis H. Sullivan and Frank Lloyd Wright Daniel E. Snyder, Independent Practitioner, USA Through a close reading of their buildings and their writings, this book explores how both Sullivan and Wright worked to solve the problem of late 19thcentury ornamentation. It shows how, while their solutions differed widely, they nonetheless shared something in common: for both men, ornament involved sentimentality. Examining ornament through the lens of sentimentality explains much about how these two architects understood and used ornament, and it brings important new insights into the nature of ornament itself, the value of affect, and the agency and ontology of objects.

UK September 2021 • US September 2021 • 304 pages • 70 bw illus PB 9781350236714 • £24.99 / $34.95 Previously published in HB 9781350099616 ePub 9781350099630 • £67.50 / $83.76 ePdf 9781350099623 • £67.50 / $83.76 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Digital Architecture Beyond Computers Fragments of a Cultural History of Computational Design

Roberto Bottazzi, University of Westminster, UK Digital Architecture Beyond Computers explores the deep history of digital architecture, tracing design concepts as far back as the Renaissance and connecting them with the latest software used by designers today. It develops a critical account of how the tools and techniques of digital design have emerged, and allows designers to deepen their understanding of the digital tools they use every day.

UK January 2021 • US January 2021 • 256 pages • 21 bw illus PB 9781474258128 • £21.99 / $29.95 Previously published in HB 9781474258135 ePub 9781474258166 • £19.79 / $24.63 ePdf 9781474258142 • £19.79 / $24.63 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Architecture and Ugliness Anti-Aesthetics and the Ugly in Postmodern Architecture

Edited by Wouter Van Acker, Université libre de Bruxelles, Belgium & Thomas Mical, University of South Australia, Australia Whatever 'ugliness' is, it remains a problematic category in architectural aesthetics – either overlooked, vilified, or appropriated to shock or subvert conventions.

This book presents eighteen new essays which rethink ugliness in postmodern architecture and design. Chapters address broad theoretical questions as well as specific case studies – together addressing the relation between the aesthetics of ugliness and concepts such as brutalism, kitsch, the formless, the monstrous, and the grotesque.

UK May 2021 • US May 2021 • 304 pages • 32 bw illus PB 9781350236707 • £24.99 / $34.95 Previously published in HB 9781350068230 ePub 9781350068254 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350068247 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Building Materials

Material theory and the architectural specification Katie Lloyd Thomas Architectural specifications are a core component of architectural practice, and an essential part of the design and realization of buildings. Yet they have been almost entirely neglected as an object of historical study, analysis, and interpretation. Drawing on rare archival material from the work of French philosopher Gilbert Simondon, Building Materials offers a radical rethink of how materials are specified and used in architectural practice, and how they are themselves constructed.

UK December 2021 • US December 2021 • 224 pages • 20 bw illus HB 9781350176225 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350176249 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350176232 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Landscape and Infrastructure

Reimagining the Pastoral Paradigm for the Twenty-First Century Margaret Birney Vickery, University of Massachussetts Amherst, USA Examining the relationship between infrastructure, nature and culture from the 17th century to the present. Landscape and Infrastructure looks at the ways in which infrastructure in the urban and rural landscape has been both celebrated and reviled, and provides powerful lessons for architects and landscape designers who are once more seeking to remarry nature, community, sustainability, and infrastructure.

V I S U A L A R T S – Architecture / Art & Visual Culture - Drawing

The Tender Detail

UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 216 pages • 45 color illus PB 9781350216310 • £21.99 / $29.95 Previously published in HB 9781350071087 ePub 9781350071100 • £19.79 / $24.63 ePdf 9781350071094 • £19.79 / $24.63 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Serial Drawing

Space, Time and the Art Object Joe Graham, Kadir Has University, Istanbul Offering a timely and rigorous exploration of a relatively little-researched art form, this book looks at serial drawings in fresh, contemporary terms, with a novel philosophical approach, emphasizing the way that this unique form of visual art exists in the world and how it is encountered by the beholder. Inspired by the framework of Graham Harman’s object-oriented ontology, Joe Graham explores a variety of serial drawings in relation to three tensions – space, time and seriality – building on current discussions around art and philosophy to establish what serial drawing ‘is’ and how it functions as a form of art.

UK September 2021 • US September 2021 • 240 pages • 21 bw illus HB 9781350166653 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350166660 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350166677 • £76.50 / $94.85 Series: Drawing In • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

www.bloomsbury.com • USA, Canada, Latin America • 888-330-8477 • customerservice@mpsvirginia.com

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V I S U A L A R T S – Art & Visual Culture - Philosophy & Politics of Art / Anthropology of Art

Popular Pleasures

An Introduction to the Aesthetics of Popular Visual Culture Paul Duncum, University of Illinois, USA, and University of Tasmania, Australia.

Sentimental, violent, vulgar, spectacular, humorous: today’s many popular aesthetic pleasures are perennial. Paul Duncum considers the historical, critical discourses; the lures; and socio-political issues raised by the pleasures in fifteen individually dedicated chapters. The elite discourse of condemning popular culture on the grounds of taste, as derived from the fine arts, is rejected; much of premodern fine art is revisioned as offering the same aesthetic pleasures as today’s popular visual culture. Critical critique is instead directed to the socio-political ends that aesthetic lures serve, allowing analysis of these causes as separate from value judgements made on the grounds of taste.

UK September 2021 • US September 2021 • 240 pages • 38 bw illus PB 9781350193390 • £24.99 / $34.95 • HB 9781350193406 • £75.00 / $100.00 ePub 9781350193420 • £22.49 / $28.32 ePdf 9781350193413 • £22.49 / $28.32 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Imaging Pilgrimage

Art as Embodied Experience Kathryn R. Barush, Graduate Theological Union, Berkeley and the Jesuit School of Theology of Santa Clara University, USA Recent scholarship in the field of medieval studies has established the importance of representations of pilgrimage in the form of manuscripts, labyrinths, and images. Through a close examination of a number of specific case studies including assemblages of souvenirs, built environments, and full-scale reconstructions of sacred sites, this book radically shifts the focus from the Middle Ages to the present day in order to critically examine contemporary art that is created after a pilgrimage and intended to act as a catalyst for others to experience grace, healing, and prayerful meditation.

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 272 pages • 15 color and 43 bw illus HB 9781501335013 • £88.00 / $110.00 ePub 9781501335020 • £81.19 / $99.00 ePdf 9781501335037 • £81.19 / $99.00 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

In Defence of Marginal Anarchy Ben Thomas, University of Kent, UK

The eminent art historian and philosopher Edgar Wind is mainly remembered as the author of Pagan Mysteries in the Renaissance (1958). Throughout his life, however, he was passionately interested in modern art, and recognized as a compelling public speaker on this topic. He gave, for example, a remarkable series of lectures at New York’s Museum of Modern Art in 1942, and was a friend of artists like Tchelitchew, Shahn and Kitaj. Ben Thomas’ astute analysis of Wind’s views on modern art reveals his robust challenge to the prevailing formalism of the age, and a new understanding of the iconographical approach.

UK January 2021 • US February 2021 • 272 pages • 19 bw illus HB 9781501341755 • £80.00 / $110.00 ePub 9781501341731 • £81.19 / $99.00 ePdf 9781501341748 • £81.19 / $99.00 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Constructing Race on the Borders of Europe

Ethnography, Anthropology, and Visual Culture, 1850-1930 Edited by Marsha Morton, Pratt Institute, USA & Barbara Larson, University of West Florida, USA Beginning in the late 19th century, the expansion of the disciplines of ethnography and anthropology in a climate of nationalism in Eastern and Northern Europe stimulated increased discussions about the character and origins of race. This book explores the impact of these developments on representations of minority ethnic cultures, both indigenous and migrant, in countries along the European rim (Scandinavia, Austro-Hungary, Germany, and Russia) during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

UK April 2021 • US April 2021 • 288 pages • 12 colour and 63 bw illus HB 9781350182325 • £90.00 / $120.00 ePub 9781350182349 • £81.00 / $101.01 ePdf 9781350182332 • £81.00 / $101.01 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Material Culture of Art and Design Michael Yonan, University of Missouri, USA

Enlightened Animals in Eighteenth-Century Art

Domestic Space in France and Belgium

Sarah R. Cohen, University at Albany, USA

Edited by Claire Moran, Queen’s University Belfast, UK

Sensation, Matter, and Knowledge

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Edgar Wind and Modern Art

Art, Literature and Design (1850–1920)

Focusing on depictions of animals in eighteenthcentury art, this book studies the ways in which painters such as Chardin, as well as sculptors, porcelain modelers, and other decorative designers portrayed animals as sensing subjects who physically confirmed the value of material experience. Examining writings on sensory knowledge by La Mettre, Condillac, Diderot and other philosophers side by side with depictions of the animal in art, Cohen argues that artists promoted the animal as a sensory subject while also validating the material basis of their own professional practice.

Focused on late 19th and early 20th-century France and Belgium, this volume addresses an overlooked area of modernity: the domestic sphere and its conception and representation in art, literature and material culture. Scholars from the US, UK, France, Italy, Canada and Belgium offer fresh and exciting interpretations of artworks, texts and modern homes. Comparative and interdisciplinary, it shows through a series of case-studies in literature, art and architecture, how modernity was expressed through domestic life at the turn of the century in France and Belgium.

UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 264 pages • 10 colour and 83 bw illus HB 9781350203587 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350203600 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350203594 • £76.50 / $94.85 Series: Material Culture of Art and Design • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

UK September 2021 • US September 2021 • 208 pages • 24 color and 26 bw illus HB 9781501341694 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781501341700 • £84.44 / $103.50 ePdf 9781501341717 • £84.44 / $103.50 Series: Material Culture of Art and Design • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

www.bloomsbury.com • UK, Europe, ROW • +44 (0)1256 302692 • orders@macmillan.co.uk

Kathryn Brown, Loughborough University, UK

Collecting Prints, Posters, and Ephemera Perspectives in a Global World

Edited by Ruth E. Iskin & Britany Salsbury, Cleveland Museum of Art, USA Why did collectors seek out posters and collect ephemera during the late-nineteenth and the twentieth centuries? How have such materials been integrated into institutional collections today? These are among the questions tackled in this volume—the first to examine the practices of collecting prints, posters, and ephemera during the modern and contemporary periods. Fourteen essays and one roundtable discussion, all specially commissioned from art historians, curators, and collectors for this volume, explore key issues such as the roles of class, politics, and gender, and address historical contexts, social roles, value, and national and transnational aspects of collecting practices.

UK April 2021 • US April 2021 • 304 pages • 32 colour illus, 60 bw illus PB 9781501377891 • £24.99 / $34.95 Previously published in HB 9781501338496 ePub 9781501338502 • £88.50 / $108.00 ePdf 9781501338519 • £88.50 / $108.00 Series: Contextualizing Art Markets • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Corporate Patronage of Art and Architecture in the United States, Late 19th Century to the Present Edited by Monica E. Jovanovich, Golden West College, USA & Melissa Renn, Harvard University, USA

This interdisciplinary collection of case studies rethinks corporate patronage in the United States and reveals the central role corporations have played in shaping American culture. The twelve case studies explore the complex organizational networks and wide range of motivations behind corporate commissions. Altogether, this book is a call for the field to reevaluate standard accounts of both art production and patronage in the United States. It also contains the first comprehensive bibliography on American corporate patronage and support of the arts.

UK April 2021 • US April 2021 • 304 pages • 17 colour and 28 bw illus PB 9781501377877 • £24.99 / $34.95 Previously published in HB 9781501343735 ePub 9781501343742 • £88.50 / $108.00 ePdf 9781501343766 • £88.50 / $108.00 Series: Contextualizing Art Markets • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Ethnographic Collecting and African Agency in Early Colonial West Africa A Study of Trans-Imperial Cultural Flows

Zachary Kingdon, National Museums Liverpool, UK The early collections from Africa in Liverpool’s World Museum reflect the city’s longstanding shipping and commercial links with Africa’s Atlantic coast. A principal component of these collections is an assemblage of several thousand artefacts from western Africa that were transported to institutions in northwest England between 1894 and 1916 by the Liverpool steam ship engineer Arnold Ridyard. While Ridyard’s collecting efforts can be seen to have been shaped by the steamers’ dynamic capacity to connect widely separated people and places, his Methodist credentials were fundamental in determining the profile of his African networks, because they meant that he was not part of official colonial authority in West Africa. Kingdon’s study uncovers the identities of many of Ridyard’s numerous West African collaborators and discusses their interests and predicaments under the colonial dispensation.

UK April 2021 • US April 2021 • 336 pages • 34 colour and 90 bw illus PB 9781501377884 • £24.99 / $34.95 Previously published in HB 9781501337925 ePub 9781501337932 • £88.50 / $108.00 ePdf 9781501337949 • £88.50 / $108.00 Series: Contextualizing Art Markets • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Time, Media, and Visuality in Post-Revolutionary France

Edited by Iris Moon, Metropolitan Museum of Art, USA & Richard Taws, University College London, UK This diverse collection of essays draws attention to the multiple points of view and refracted forms of visuality that emerged in France from the beginning of the French Revolution through to the end of the July Monarchy in 1848. It offers a new account of the story of French art’s modernity by exploring the work of genre painters and miniaturists, sign-painters and animal artists, landscapists, architects, and restorers, as they worked out what it meant to be “post-revolutionary.”

UK July 2021 • US July 2021 • 272 pages • 32 color & 61 bw illus HB 9781501348396 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781501348402 • £84.44 / $103.50 ePdf 9781501348419 • £84.44 / $103.50 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Art and Resistance in Germany Gender, Orientalism and the Jewish Nation

Women in the Work of Ephraim Moses Lilien at the German Fin de Siècle Lynne M. Swarts, University of Sydney, Australia Ephraim Moses Lilien (1874-1925) was one of the most important Jewish artists of modern times.

Concentrating mainly on his illustrations for journals and books, Lynne Swarts is the first to examine Lilien’s complex and nuanced depiction of women, which comprised a major dimension of his work. Using an interdisciplinary approach to integrate intellectual and cultural history with issues of gender, Jewish history and visual culture, Swarts also explores the fin de siècle tensions between European and Oriental expressions of Jewish femininity.

UK March 2021 • US March 2021 • 368 pages • 32 color and 125 bw illus PB 9781501374869 • £24.99 / $34.95 Previously published in HB 9781501336140 ePub 9781501336157 • £95.81 / $117.00 ePdf 9781501336164 • £95.81 / $117.00 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Edited by Deborah Ascher Barnstone, University of Technology Sydney, Australia & Elizabeth Otto, The State University of New York at Buffalo, USA

V I S U A L A R T S – Art & Visual Culture - Anthropology of Art / Art Markets / Art History

Contextualizing Art Markets

Many are confounded by the recent rise of right-wing populism and resurgent nationalism, racism, misogyny, homophobia and demagoguery around the globe. With the knowledge that such polarized politics have arisen before, this book investigates how cultural producers in Germany over the past century have sought to resist, confront, confound, mock, or call out situations of political oppression. This profoundly topical volume of 13 essays contextualizes in fresh ways current events within broader histories and intellectual traditions.

Though the focus is Germany, the collection includes essays with compelling transnational dimensions - and features provocative images of resistance.

UK March 2021 • US March 2021 • 288 pages • 83 bw illus PB 9781350230071 • £24.99 / $34.95 Previously published in HB 9781501344862 ePub 9781501344879 • £95.81 / $117.00 ePdf 9781501344886 • £95.81 / $117.00 Series: Visual Cultures and German Contexts • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

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V I S U A L A R T S – Art & Visual Culture - Art History / Art & Popular Culture

Concentrationary Memories

Picturing Socialism

Edited by Griselda Pollock, University of Leeds, UK & Max Silverman, University of Leeds, UK

J. R. Jenkins, Falmouth University, UK

Totalitarian Terror and Cultural Resistance

Concentrationary Memories has, as its premise, the idea at the heart of Alain Resnais's film Night and Fog (1955) that the concentrationary plague unleashed on the world by the Nazis in the 1930s and 1940s is not simply confined to one place and one time but is now a permanent presence shadowing modern life. It further suggests that memory (and, indeed art in general) must be invoked to show this haunting of the present by this menacing past so that we can read for the signs of terror and counter its deformation of the human.

UK September 2021 • US September 2021 • 336 pages • 88 bw illus PB 9781350229174 • £24.99 / $34.95 Previously published in HB 9781780768960 ePub 9781786724434 • £85.50 / $105.94 ePdf 9781786734433 • £85.50 / $105.94 Series: New Encounters: Arts, Cultures, Concepts • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

This vibrant history of the former GDR’s public art reveals a barely known but visually and theoretically rich cultural legacy. Picturing Socialism shows how works of art and design in the urban spaces of East Germany were the site of a sustained struggle between practitioners, critics and political leaders. This was not the oft-assumed conflict between artistic freedom and political dogma; at stake was the self-identity of the republic as socialist. J. R. Jenkins shows how art and its relationship to architecture functioned as the testing ground for East Germany’s relationship to socialist realism and modernism.

UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 264 pages • 58 bw illus and 8pp colour plate section HB 9781350067141 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350067158 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350067165 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Enchanted Ground

Scenography and Art History

Gavin Parkinson, Courtauld Institute of Art, UK

Edited by Astrid Von Rosen, University of Gothenburg, Sweden & Viveka Kjellmer, University of Gothenburg, Sweden

André Breton, Modernism and the Surrealist Appraisal of Fin-de-Siècle Painting

Performance Design and Visual Culture

Enchanted Ground is about the challenge to modernist criticism by Surrealist writers who viewed the same artists in terms of magic, occultism, precognition, alchemy and esotericism generally. First of all, it introduces the history of the ways in which those artists who came after Impressionism became canonical in the 20th century through the broad approaches we now call modernist or formalist. It then unpacks the Surrealist positions on the same artists and, to this end, contributes to new strains of scholarship on Surrealism that exceed the usual bounds of the 1920s and 1930s.

Scenography and Art History reimagines scenography as a new strand of critical thought in art history and provides new ways of thinking about it that are not just related to theatre. Using international examples, this volume examines how scenography can be applied to modern visual objects, actions and events such as pop concerts, the Olympics opening ceremonies, feminist performance art and fashion shows. By relating scenography to social issues such as globalisation and the increasingly digitalised world, the book shows how this concept can offer new approaches to emerging and more traditional objects of study.

UK March 2021 • US March 2021 • 376 pages • 15 colour and 113 bw illus PB 9781501375644 • £24.99 / $34.95 Previously published in HB 9781501337253 ePub 9781501337277 • £99.06 / $121.50 ePdf 9781501337260 • £99.06 / $121.50 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

UK June 2021 • US June 2021 • 256 pages • 30 colour & 30 bw illustrations HB 9781350204447 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350204461 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350204454 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Music, Art and Performance from Liszt to Riot Grrrl

Concentrationary Imaginaries

Edited by Diane V. Silverthorne, University of the Arts, London, UK

Edited by Griselda Pollock, University of Leeds, UK & Max Silverman, University of Leeds, UK

This book charts the interaction between music and the visual arts from late Romanticism through to the birth of modernism and emergence of postmodernism, while crossing from Western art to the Middle East. Focusing on music and the audial as a central experience of art and life, these essays scrutinize the permeable boundaries between the visual and performing arts, detailing significant instances of intra-art relations between 1840 and the present, and reflecting on the aesthetic relationships of music to painting, textiles and other visual arts. Topics range from Satie, Manet, and contemporary Iranian art to Symbolism, Minimalism and Turkish carpets.

In 1945, French political prisoners returning from the concentration camps of Germany coined the phrase 'the concentrationary universe' to describe the camps as a terrible political experiment in the destruction of the human. This book shows how the unacknowledged legacy of a totalitarian mentality has seeped into the deepest recesses of everyday popular culture. Drawing on the political philosophy of Hannah Arendt and the analyses of violence by Agamben, Virilio, Lacoue-Labarthe and Nancy, it also offers close readings of films

by Cavani and Haneke that identify and critically expose such an imaginary and, hence, contest its lingering force.

UK March 2021 • US March 2021 • 288 pages • 16 colour and 13 bw illus PB 9781501376528 • £24.99 / $34.95 Previously published in HB 9781501330131 ePub 9781501330155 • £99.06 / $121.50 ePdf 9781501330148 • £99.06 / $121.50 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

UK September 2021 • US September 2021 • 320 pages • 49 bw illus PB 9781350229556 • £24.99 / $34.95 Previously published in HB 9781784534097 ePub 9780857739087 • £85.50 / $105.94 ePdf 9780857725448 • £85.50 / $105.94 Series: New Encounters: Arts, Cultures, Concepts • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

The Musicalization of Art

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Public Art and Design in East Germany

Tracing Totalitarian Violence in Popular Culture

www.bloomsbury.com • UK, Europe, ROW • +44 (0)1256 302692 • orders@macmillan.co.uk

Designing with Aesthetic and Ethical Awareness

Ben Stopher, Royal College of Art and London College of Communication, UK, John Fass, London College of Communication, UK, Eva Verhoeven, London College of Communication, UK & Tobias Revell, London College of Communication, UK Through discussion with cutting-edge designers and thinkers and with international examples, the authors explain how we need an expanded aesthetic, critical and ethical awareness on the part of designers willing to act with sensitivity and understanding towards the people they design for. Included are interviews with leading practitioners and clear explanations of high-level concepts.

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 176 pages • 30 colour illus PB 9781350068278 • £29.99 / $40.95 ePub 9781350068292 • £26.99 / $33.25 ePdf 9781350068285 • £26.99 / $33.25 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Information Design for the Common Good Human-centric Approaches to Contemporary Design Challenges

Courtney Marchese, Quinnipiac University, USA This book explores the increasing altruistic impulse of the design community to address some of the world’s most difficult problems including social, political, environmental, and global health causes at the local, national, and global scale. Each chapter strategically combines theory and practice to examine how to identify causes and locate accurate data, truth and integrity in information design, the information design/data visualization process, understanding audiences, crafting meaningful narratives, and measuring the impact of a design.

UK September 2021 • US September 2021 • 256 pages • 200 colour illus PB 9781350117266 • £27.99 / $37.95 • HB 9781350117259 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350117273 • £25.19 / $32.02 ePdf 9781350117280 • £25.19 / $32.02 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Craft is Political

D Wood, Independent Scholar, Canada Throughout the 21st century, craft practices have garnered significant attention across the West, which these essays argue is a direct response to and critique of the economic, social and technological contexts in which we live. Just as Ruskin and Morris viewed craft and its ethos in the 1800s as a political opposition to the Industrial Revolution, Craft is Political contends that current craft activities are politically saturated when perspectives from the Global South, Indigenous ideology and even Western government policy are examined. Case studies consider craft and design in Turkey, craft markets in New Zealand, Indigenous practitioners in Taiwan and Finnish craft education.

UK May 2021 • US May 2021 • 256 pages • 20 bw illus HB 9781350122260 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350122277 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350122284 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Storytelling Exhibitions Identity, Truth and Wonder

Philip Hughes, Ralph Appelbaum Associates, UK Storytelling Exhibitions describes the role and practice of modern ‘spatial storytellers’ and looks at the potential of exhibitions to shape our understanding of the world. It explains how curators, designers, artists and scientists combine to tell powerful stories through exhibitions that communicate ideas about identity, history, science and beyond. It also outlines how designers are utilising contemporary tools - from AR and VR to 3D scanning and digital archives – and how these new technologies interweave with traditional forms of informing, displaying and promoting in narrative spaces.

V I S U A L A R T S – Design

Design and Digital Interfaces

UK September 2021 • US September 2021 • 224 pages • 200 colour illus PB 9781350105935 • £35.00 / $47.95 ePub 9781350105942 • £31.50 / $39.41 ePdf 9781350105959 • £31.50 / $39.41 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Design Noir

The Secret Life of Electronic Objects Anthony Dunne, Dunne & Raby, UK & Fiona Raby, Dunne & Raby, UK In this classic work of speculative design thinking, Dunne and Raby explore the revolutionary impact of electronic technologies on our lives. Investigating the physical and cultural effects of the digital domain, Design Noir demonstrates that mobile phones, computers and televisions profoundly influence people's experience of their environment.

UK July 2021 • US July 2021 • 176 pages HB 9781350070639 • £21.99 / $29.95 ePub 9781350070646 • £19.79 / $24.63 ePdf 9781350070653 • £19.79 / $24.63 Series: Radical Thinkers in Design • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Designing Transformation

Jews and Cultural Identity in Central European Modernism Edited by Elana Shapira, University of Applied Arts Vienna, Austria By exploring how Jewish designers and architects played a key role in shaping the interwar architecture of Central Europe, this book sheds new light on the importance of integrating Jews into design and aesthetic history. Leading historians, curators, archivists and architects present their critical analyses further to 'design' the past and push forward a transformation in the historical consciousness of Central Europe. By reconsidering the seminal role of Central European émigré and exiled architects and designers in shaping today's global design cultures, this book further strengthens humanistic, progressive and pluralistic cultural trends in Europe today.

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 304 pages • 69 bw illus HB 9781350172272 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350172296 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350172319 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

www.bloomsbury.com • USA, Canada, Latin America • 888-330-8477 • customerservice@mpsvirginia.com

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V I S U A L A R T S – Design / Fashion - Fashion History

Color Theory

A Critical Introduction Aaron Fine, Truman State University, USA Color Theory gives an overview of the history of color theory, providing students with practical guidance on the use of color in art and design. By placing basic tenets of color theory such as the color wheel and color primaries within the Western industrial context that generated them, artist and educator Aaron Fine helps readers connect color choices to color meanings.

UK September 2021 • US September 2021 • 368 pages • 156 colour and bw illus PB 9781350027305 • £34.99 / $39.95 • HB 9781350027275 • £90.00 / $122.00 ePub 9781350027282 • £31.49 / $39.41 ePdf 9781350027268 • £31.49 / $39.41 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Bobi Garland, Otis College of Art & Design, Woodbury University, USA & Christina Ingalls, Sony, USA The Survey of Historic Costume Coloring Book highlights Western dress from the ancient world to today through fashion silhouettes. By coloring line drawings that parallel chapters from the Survey of Historic Costume, 7th Edition textbook, students will learn to identify and retain specific details that make each historical period’s fashion unique. Each chapter also includes activities and prompts to promote further thinking and creativity, including tasks like drawing and making modern-day connections. Through these dynamic, hands-on exercises, students will develop an understanding of historic costume, increase awareness of world culture, and have fun through this interactive learning medium.

UK September 2021 • US August 2021 • 112 pages • 75 bw illus PB 9781501376092 • £17.99 / $24.95 Fairchild Books

Black Designers in American Fashion

Edited by Elizabeth Way, The Museum at FIT, USA From Elizabeth Keckly’s designs as a freewoman for Abraham Lincoln’s wife to flamboyant clothing showcased by Patrick Kelly in Paris, black designers have made major contributions to American fashion. However, many of their achievements have gone unrecognized. Black Designers in American Fashion uses previously unexplored sources, inspired by the award-winning exhibition at the Museum at FIT, to show how black designers helped build America’s global fashion reputation. Interweaving fashion design and American cultural history, this book fills critical gaps in the history of fashion and offers insights to students of fashion, design, and American and African American history and culture.

UK July 2021 • US July 2021 • 288 pages • 61 color illus PB 9781350138476 • £24.99 / $34.95 • HB 9781350138469 • £75.00 / $100.00 ePub 9781350138490 • £22.49 / $28.32 ePdf 9781350138483 • £22.49 / $28.32 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Freak to Chic

'Gay' Men in and out of Fashion after Oscar Wilde Dominic Janes, Professor of Modern History at Keele University, UK In this unique intervention into the history of gay culture, Dominic Janes highlights that under the gaze of social conservatism, gay culture was hiding in plain sight. Inspired by the legacies of Oscar Wilde and pre-war Cecil Beaton, interwar and later 20th-century gay men expressed transgressive desires in veiled visual forms and made major contributions to the histories of art, design, fashion, sexuality and celebrity. Janes reinterprets the origins of gay and queer cultures and establishes a framework for future analyses of other cities and media and of the role of women and trans identities.

UK July 2021 • US July 2021 • 304 pages • 70 bw illus HB 9781350172609 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350172623 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350172616 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

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Survey of Historic Costume Coloring Book

Danger in the Path of Chic

Violence in Fashion between the Wars Lucy Moyse Ferreira, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK During the interwar years, a proliferation of violence encroached upon the glossy, idealistic world of fashion: from the curiously common appearance of dismembered heads in fashion illustration, to seemingly torturous techniques and devices advertised by beauty imagery, even extending to garments designed to look assaulted and destroyed. This book brings this disturbing imagery to light for the first time, proposing new directions for historians of fashion, violence and culture in the interwar years. Danger in the Path of Chic situates fashion within the social, psychological, economic and political traumas of the period.

UK December 2021 • US December 2021 • 240 pages • 35 bw illus HB 9781350126282 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350126305 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350126299 • £76.50 / $94.85 Series: Fashion: Visual & Material Interconnections • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Clothing in 17th-Century Provincial England

Danae Tankard, University of Chichester, UK Providing a detailed analysis of 17th-century provincial clothing culture, this book draws on previously unexploited sources and provides an intimate and nuanced portrait of people and their clothes. Using Sussex as a case study, it illuminates early modern ideas about clothing, the individual and society, the relationship between London and the provinces, and the causes and consequences of conspicuous consumption. Covering the clothing of the poor, ‘middle’ and ‘upper’ sorts, this is a new window onto early modern clothing experiences.

UK March 2021 • US March 2021 • 280 pages • 44 bw illus PB 9781350227583 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350098404 ePub 9781350098411 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350098428 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts World English

www.bloomsbury.com • UK, Europe, ROW • +44 (0)1256 302692 • orders@macmillan.co.uk

With a history stretching back more than 100 years, Fairchild Books is a world-leading publisher in the fields of Fashion and Interior Design.

In addition, STUDIOs complement our best-selling textbooks with rich media ancillaries that students can adapt to their visual learning styles.

To view our collection of books and for adoption/examination copy information, visit www.FairchildBooks.com.

V I S U A L A R T S – FAIRCHILD BOOKS 1PP AD

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V I S U A L A R T S – Fashion - Fashion & Culture

Rethinking Fashion Globalization Edited by Sarah Cheang, Royal College of Art, UK, Erica de Greef, African Fashion Research Institute, South Africa & Yoko Takagi, Bunka Gakuen University, Japan

This edited collection draws together original, diverse, and richly reflective critiques of the fashion system from both established and emerging fashion scholars, researchers and creative practitioners. Chapters straddle current calls for decolonization and inclusion, as well as reflections on de-westernization, post-colonialism, sustainability, transnationalism, national identities, social activism, global fashion narratives, diversity, and more.

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 256 pages • 91 bw illus PB 9781350180062 • £24.99 / $34.95 • HB 9781350180055 • £75.00 / $100.00 ePub 9781350181304 • £22.49 / $28.32 ePdf 9781350180079 • £22.49 / $28.32 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Contemporary Indonesian Fashion Through the Looking Glass

Alessandra Lopez y Royo, SOAS University of London, UK This book explores how contemporary Indonesian fashion has moved away from ‘national dress’ and ‘colonial fashion’ to claim its own distinct identity.

Challenging the dominant Eurocentric model of fashion and beauty discourses, it explores the diversity and complexity of the Indonesia’s sartorial offerings, from traditional ikat-weaving to contemporary fashion blogging.

Fat Fashion

The Thin Ideal and the Segregation of Plus-Size Bodies Paolo Volonté, Politecnico di Milano, Italy Average body mass in many Western cultures is getting larger and yet the fashion system seems mostly unchanged. Major fashion houses still limit their output to small sizes and the dominant ideal of the female body in fashion imagery is still thin. In the first systematic study of fatness and thinness in the fashion industry, Paolo Volonté draws on influential literature on the body, beauty standards and the roles of clothing in society to explore the nature of the segregation of fat bodies in fashion and considers what the future may hold for consumers, designers and marketers alike.

UK September 2021 • US September 2021 • 256 pages • 15 bw illus PB 9781350126930 • £23.99 / $32.95 • HB 9781350126923 • £75.00 / $100.00 ePub 9781350126916 • £21.59 / $27.09 ePdf 9781350126954 • £21.59 / $27.09 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

The Psychopolitics of Fashion

Conflict and Courage Under the Current State of Fashion Otto von Busch, Parsons, The New School for Design, USA

Exploring clothing on the streets and in shopping malls, on the catwalk, in magazines, and online, the book examines how Indonesian fashion is made, presented, and consumed. Beautifully illustrated and deeply researched, it offers a new perspective on a rapidly developing new fashion capital.

In this book Otto von Busch imagines fashion as a political state and reveals the acts of aesthetic superiority, micro-aggression and bullying which characterise getting dressed. Through four case studies, Von Busch suggests that it is in fact these experiences, and concurrent feelings of inclusion, adoration and power, which make fashion so pleasurable.

Through these explorations, The Psychopolitics of Fashion offers new perspectives on fashion through the lens of politics, policing, affect and statehood, and even investigates the implications of these findings for fashion designers.

UK July 2021 • US July 2021 • 256 pages • 40 bw illus PB 9781350237957 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350061309 ePub 9781350061323 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350061316 • £76.50 / $94.85 Series: Dress and Fashion Research • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 200 pages • 49 bw illus PB 9781350242814 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350102309 ePub 9781350102316 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350102323 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Dress Cultures Reina Lewis, London College of Fashion, UK and Elizabeth Wilson

Fashioning Indie

Popular Fashion, Music and Gender Rachel Lifter, Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA

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Wearing the Cheongsam

Dress and Culture in a Chinese Diaspora Cheryl Sim, Phi Foundation for Contemporary Art, Montreal, Canada

When indie rocker Pete Doherty began a relationship with supermodel Kate Moss in 2005, the indie music scene and its signature look reached the height of popular fashion. Fashioning Indie charts this rise and the subsequent emergence of 'festival fashion', an indie-inspired trend that became a persuasive fashion trope and lucrative marketing tool for British and American high streets. Lifter argues that, amidst these changes, the ideal indie figure transformed from the slender, white, guitar-playing man into the festival fashionista. It was she who negotiated the blurred lines of alternative and mainstream style, a blurring that defines 21st-century popular culture.

Associations between the cheongsam dress and Chinese cultural identity are well known but what are the meanings of the cheongsam for members of the Chinese diaspora? In a study grounded in first-hand accounts of wearing, Cheryl Sim explores the practices and experiences of women in Canada, a major Chinese diaspora, and carries out the first in-depth study of the cheongsam from this critical point of view. Covering issues such as heritage, ethnic identity, authenticity, nationalism, patriarchy and assimilation, Sim reveals the many meanings of the cheongsam. This book is the entry-point into discussions of Chinese dress and diaspora.

UK July 2021 • US July 2021 • 224 pages • 15 bw illus PB 9781350238077 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350126329 ePub 9781350126343 • £67.50 / $83.76 ePdf 9781350126336 • £67.50 / $83.76 Series: Dress Cultures • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

UK March 2021 • US March 2021 • 216 pages • 29 bw illus PB 9781350238060 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781788310819 ePub 9781350109872 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350109865 • £76.50 / $94.85 Series: Dress Cultures • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

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Crafting Anatomies

Julia Petrov, Royal Alberta Museum, Canada

Edited by Katherine Townsend, Nottingham Trent University, UK, Rhian Solomon, Practising Artist, UK & Amanda Briggs-Goode, Nottingham Trent University, UK

Inventing the Display of Dress

The last decade has seen an explosion in the visibility of fashion as a cultural product, including its growing presence in museum exhibitions.

This book delves into the history of fashion curating, highlighting historical continuities and developments in curatorial practices. Comparing exhibitions from different museums and decades – from the 1900 Paris Exposition Universelle to 2011’s Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty show at the Met – it makes connections between museum fashion and the wider fashion industry. By analyzing curation in the 20th and 21st centuries, Petrov defines the varied representations of historical fashion within British and North American exhibitions. This book is available as open access through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com.

UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 248 pages • 8 color and 61 bw illus PB 9781350229662 • £27.99 / $37.95 Previously published in HB 9781350048997 ePub 9781350049017 • £25.19 / $32.02 ePdf 9781350049000 • £25.19 / $32.02 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Archives, Dialogues, Fabrications

With contributions from a multidisciplinary range of scholars and researchers, Crafting Anatomies examines how new technologies have become integrated with traditional fashion and textiles techniques, bringing together art, science and biomedical approaches. Traversing the cutting-edge of design research, the chapters take us from the forgotten lives of historical garments to the potential of biofabrication to cross the boundaries between skin and textile.

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 344 pages • 120 color illus PB 9781350242432 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350075474 ePub 9781350075498 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350075481 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Fashion and Materiality

Fashion Crimes

Edited by Heike Jenss, Parsons School of Design, The New School, USA & Viola Hofmann, Institute of Arts and Material Culture, TU Dortmund University, Germany

Edited by Joanne Turney, Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, UK

Cultural Practices in Global Contexts

Dressing for Deviance

This cutting-edge study offers new insights into the relationships between fashion, bodies, and material culture, focusing on diverse cultural practices. Drawing on a series of historical and contemporary case studies, the collection explores how fashion and clothing shape our sense of body and self, and our social relationships. With contributions from leading international scholars, Fashion and Materiality takes the reader from Chinoiserie clothing in 18th century Europe to fast fashion in today’s China. Illustrated with 40 images, the book shows how dress and cultural identity are part of everyday actions like buying, wearing, and making clothing.

Both revealing and concealing, fashionable clothing is an excellent communicator of identity and in turn assumes social and moral significance by coding wearers as ‘respectable’ or ‘deviant’.

This interdisciplinary book develops new ways of seeing everyday dress and the individual body in public space. Exploring hoodies and trench-coats, knitted Norwegian Lustkoffe sweaters and lowslung trousers, it reveals how innocuous objects have been coded as deviant, both socially and in the media. Fashion Crimes shows where morality, social control and criminality meet, demonstrating how dress codes and terms such as ‘suitability’ or ‘glamour’ can be renegotiated.

UK April 2021 • US April 2021 • 312 pages • 40 bw illus PB 9781350228078 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350057814 ePub 9781350057838 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350057821 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

UK January 2021 • US January 2021 • 256 pages • 27 b&w illus PB 9781350227217 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781780766980 ePub 9781788315647 • £26.09 / $33.25 ePdf 9781788315630 • £26.09 / $33.25 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Fashion Remains

Picturing the Woman-Child

Marco Pecorari, Parsons Paris, The New School, France

Morna Laing, Chelsea College of Arts, UAL, UK

Rethinking Ephemera in the Archive

Fashion ephemera – from catalogs and invitations to press releases – have long been overlooked by the fashion industry. This book redresses the balance, considering these objects not as disposable promotional devices, but as windows into hidden networks of collaboration and inspiration. Fashion Remains explores the unseen fashion ephemera produced by today’s international fashion designers. This book focuses on Antwerp’s avant-garde fashion scene and takes us from Maison Margiela to Dries Van Noten.

With over 100 color images, Fashion Remains illuminates the far-fromfleeting significance of fashion ephemera as collaborative spaces for designers, stylists, art directors, and photographers.

V I S U A L A R T S – Fashion - Fashion & Culture

Fashion, History, Museums

Fashion, Feminism and the Female Gaze The childlike character of ideal femininity has long been critiqued by feminists from Mary Wollstonecraft to Simone de Beauvoir. Exploring the ways this model has cemented inequality between the sexes, Picturing the Woman-Child interrogates the centrality of childlike women in the Western fashion media from 1990 and 2015, despite successive waves of feminism.

UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 320 pages • 60 bw illus HB 9781350059580 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350059603 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350059610 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

UK February 2021 • US March 2021 • 256 pages • 102 colour illus HB 9781350074767 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350074781 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350074774 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

www.bloomsbury.com • USA, Canada, Latin America • 888-330-8477 • customerservice@mpsvirginia.com

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V I S U A L A R T S – Fashion - Fashion & Culture / Fashion Design

Uniform

Clothing and Discipline in the Modern World Edited by Jane Tynan, Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam, Netherlands & Lisa Godson, National College of Art and Design, Ireland Examining the roles uniform plays in public life and private experience, this collection considers how uniform dress embodies gender, class, sexuality, race, nationality, and belief. Thematic sections on the meaning of uniform in the military, its use in fashion, in the workplace and at leisure, consider what sartorial uniformity means to the history of the body and society. With original contributions from emerging and established academics, Uniform draws attention to a visual and material practice with the power to regulate or disrupt civil society.

UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 320 pages • 32 bw illus PB 9781350227224 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350045552 ePub 9781350045569 • £26.09 / $33.25 ePdf 9781350045576 • £26.09 / $33.25 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Research and Design for Fashion Richard Sorger, Kingston University, UK & Simon Seivewright, Textile Designer and Stylist, UK With practical advice on designing effective moodboards, recycling existing garments to find new ideas and getting to know your customer, this new edition will help you master the research process and apply it to your own designs.

This fourth edition also explores how cultural events, historical anniversaries and sport influences can be the starting point for a collection. There's also more on creative ways of recording your findings and designing for menswear, childrenswear and genderneutral clothing.

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 216 pages • 150 color illus PB 9781350130982 • £23.99 / $32.95 ePub 9781350131019 • £21.59 / $27.09 ePdf 9781350131002 • £21.59 / $27.09 Series: Basics Fashion Design • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Patternmaking History and Theory

Edited by Jennifer Grayer Moore, The Pratt Institute, New York, USA This collection reveals the crucial foundational art and craft of patternmaking design, with essays that explore the practice in specific historical and cultural contexts. Probing the theoretical underpinnings that inform patternmaking, Patternmaking History and Theory interrogates topics that span cultures and time periods, ranging from high fashion to home sewing and Jamaican dress history. Beautifully illustrated with over 40 images, and rooted in original research, this collection brings together a group of leading international scholars to provide a range of perspectives on a key but often overlooked aspect of design.

UK March 2021 • US March 2021 • 280 pages • 48 bw illus PB 9781350227804 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350062641 ePub 9781350062665 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350062658 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

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Developing a Fashion Collection Elinor Renfrew, Kingston University, UK & Todd Lynn, Kingston University, UK

How do fashion designers conceive of, develop and launch commercially and creatively successful collections? Fashion educator Elinor Renfrew and designer Todd Lynn walk you through the process, exploring research techniques, sources of inspiration, forecasting trends and designing for different markets.

From couture to high street, knitwear to accessories and covering the necessities of sustainability – there's advice on every aspect of creating your collection. This 3rd edition also covers silhouette, fittings and final samples, and how repeating styles and modifying cuts can turn one design into multiple garments.

UK September 2021 • US September 2021 • 192 pages • 150 colour illus PB 9781350132559 • £24.99 / $34.95 ePub 9781350132597 • £22.49 / $28.32 ePdf 9781350132580 • £22.49 / $28.32 Series: Basics Fashion Design • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Patternmaking for Dress Design 9 Iconic Styles from Empire to Cheomsang

Pamela Vanderlinde, School of the Art Institute of Chicago and the Illinois Institute of Art – Chicago, USA Patternmaking for Dress Design covers patternmaking techniques for 9 iconic dress designs, focusing not only on the concepts needed to draft patterns, but also uniquely exploring the history of each garment design to reveal what lies behind their enduring appeal today. Each chapter provides easy-to-follow patterns for the sheath, empire, shift, trapeze, wrap, strapless, shirtwaist, cheomsang and coatdress.

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 248 pages • 650 color illus PB 9781350094673 • £28.99 / $39.95 ePub 9781350235946 • £26.09 ePdf 9781350094697 • £26.09 / $33.25 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

The Third Realm of Luxury

Connecting Real Places and Imaginary Spaces Edited by Joanne Roberts, Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, UK & John Armitage, Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, UK The Third Realm of Luxury is the first book to explore the interplay between the real and imaginary realms of luxury, considering the most significant developments in the theories and practices of luxurious places and spaces over the last 50 years.

Providing a critical approach to contemporary interpretations of luxury, the book brings together an interdisciplinary group of leading scholars, featuring a range of case studies which take the reader from the luxurious image of Coco Chanel to the expression of sensuality in the 1970s domestic interior.

UK July 2021 • US July 2021 • 224 pages • 15 bw illus PB 9781350238121 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350062771 ePub 9781350062795 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350062788 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

www.bloomsbury.com • UK, Europe, ROW • +44 (0)1256 302692 • orders@macmillan.co.uk

Edited by Elaine Igoe, University of Portsmouth, UK

Needlework and Women’s Identity in Colonial Australia

Lorinda Cramer, Australian Catholic University, Australia

This book distinguishes textiles as a distinctive design discipline, against the backdrop of today’s emerging design issues. With commentaries from a range of international design scholars, it demonstrates how design theory is now being employed in diverse scenarios to encourage innovation beyond the field of design itself.

Drawing on qualitative research methods, including auto-ethnography and feminist critique, the book provides a theoretical underpinning for textile designers working in interdisciplinary scenarios. Beautifully illustrated with 40 images, it unites theory and texts from the fields of anthropology, philosophy, literature and material design.

Needlework and Women’s Identity in Colonial Australia explores how women in the newly formed colony of Victoria used their needle skills as a tool in the contest for social position in the turmoil of the gold rush. From decorative needlework to household making and mending, women’s sewing became a vehicle for establishing, asserting, and maintaining social status. Drawing on material culture, written primary sources, and pictorial evidence, the book creates a portrait of the objects and manners that defined goldfields living.

Giving voice to women’s experiences, the book offers a fresh critical perspective on gender and textile history.

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 256 pages • 15 bw illus HB 9781350061569 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350061583 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350061576 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 264 pages • 58 bw illus PB 9781350237940 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350069626 ePub 9781350069640 • £26.09 / $33.25 ePdf 9781350069633 • £26.09 / $33.25 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Pictorial Embroidery in England

Stitching the Self

Rosika Desnoyers, Independent Scholar and Artist, UK

Edited by Johanna Amos, Queen's University, Ontario, Canada & Lisa Binkley, Mount Allison University, New Brunswick, Canada

A Critical History of Needlepainting and Berlin Work

V I S U A L A R T S – Textiles

Textile Design Theory in the Making

Identity and the Needle Arts

The little-known art of Berlin Work was once the most commonly practiced art form among European women. Pictorial Embroidery in England is the first academic study of pictorial Berlin Work and its precursor, needlepainting, exploring their cultural status in the 18th and 19th centuries. Delving into its social, cultural and economic context, this book recovers Berlin Work as an art form, and demonstrates how this overlooked practice was once at the centre of cultural life.

Drawing on a range of documents and images, the book illuminates the significance of pictorial embroidery to our understanding of the Georgian and Victorian periods.

Bringing together the work of 10 art and craft historians, this collection analyses the interplay between craft and artistry, amateurism and professionalism, and re-evaluates ideas of gendered production from 1850 to the present. Stitching the Self explores how needlework has emerged as an art form through which both objects and identities – social, political, and often non-conformist – are crafted. From quilting in settler Canada to the embroidery of suffragist banners and the needlework of the Bloomsbury Group, it reveals how needlework is a transformative process – one used to express political ideas, forge professional relationships, and document shifting identities.

UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 184 pages • 19 color and 41 bw illus PB 9781350229396 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350071759 ePub 9781350071773 • £26.09 / $33.25 ePdf 9781350071766 • £26.09 / $33.25 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

UK July 2021 • US July 2021 • 256 pages • 17 color and 19 bw illus PB 9781350242418 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350070387 ePub 9781350070400 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350070394 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

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13

FA S H I O N – M A J O R R E F E R E N C E W O R K S

A Cultural History of Hair 6-Volume Set

Edited by Geraldine Biddle-Perry, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK “A thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair ... There is plenty to inform and intrigue here, partly because the study of hair demands an exhilarating disciplinary range: from the art of cuts and colours, the history of scissors, razors and combs and the sociology of barbershops, to the semiotics of hair pulling and lock tugging, the ethnography of ‘Afros’, and the sexual politics of boyish bobs ... The volumes appeal to period-specific scholars, but also slot together, forming a continuous, braided history.” Times Literary Supplement 2018 • 6 vols • c.1,792 pages • c.480 bw illus HB Pack 9781474232128 • £440 / $610 Series: The Cultural Histories • Bloomsbury Academic

A Cultural History of Hair in Antiquity

Edited by Mary Harlow, University of Leicester, UK UK January 2021 • US January 2021 • 240 pages • 100 bw illus HB 9781474232012 • £70.00 / $95.00

A Cultural History of Hair in the Age of Enlightenment

Edited by Margaret K. Powell and Joseph Roach, both Yale University, USA UK January 2021 • US January 2021 • 256 pages • 75 bw illus HB 9781474232074 • £70.00 / $95.00

Edited by Roberta Milliken, Shawnee State University, USA UK January 2021 • US January 2021 • 256 pages • 83 bw illus HB 9781474232036 • £70.00 / $95.00

A Cultural History of Hair in the Age of Empire

Edited by Sarah Heaton, University of Chester, UK UK January 2021 • US January 2021 • 232 pages • 46 bw illus HB 9781474232098 • £70.00 / $95.00

A Cultural History of Hair in the Renaissance

A Cultural History of Hair in the Modern Age

UK January 2021 • US January 2021 • 232 pages • 100 bw illus HB 9781474232050 • £70.00 / $95.00

UK January 2021 • US January 2021 • 256 pages • 75 bw illus HB 9781474232111 • £70.00 / $95.00

Edited by Edith Snook, University of New Brunswick, Fredericton, Canada

14

A Cultural History of Hair in the Middle Ages

Edited by Geraldine Biddle-Perry, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK

www.bloomsbury.com • UK, Europe, ROW • +44 (0)1256 302692 • orders@macmillan.co.uk

A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion 6-Volume Set

Edited by Susan J. Vincent, University of York, UK “A sumptuous series, as rich in ideas as it is in its descriptions of silks and satins, cashmeres and furs.”

Times Literary Supplement UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 6 vols • c.1,648 pages • 600 bw illus PB Pack 9781350204898 • £125 / $169 HB Pack 9781472557490 • £425 / $575 Series: The Cultural Histories • Bloomsbury Academic

A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in Antiquity

Edited by Mary Harlow, University of Leicester, UK UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 256 pages • 101 bw illus PB 9781350204720 • £25.99 / $35.95 HB 9780857856968 • £75.00 / $100.00 • 2018

A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in in the Renaissance Edited by Elizabeth Currie, freelance lecturer and author, formerly V&A Museum and Royal College of Art, UK UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 272 pages • 102 bw illus PB 9781350204706 • £25.99 / $35.95 HB 9780857857514 • £75.00 / $100.00 • 2018

A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Empire Edited by Denise Amy Baxter, University of North Texas, USA

UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 288 pages • 109 bw illus PB 9781350204645 • £25.99 / $35.95 HB 9780857856845 • £75.00 / $100.00 • 2018

A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Medieval Age Edited by Sarah-Grace Heller, Ohio State University, USA

UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 256 pages • 90 bw illus PB 9781350204713 • £25.99 / $35.95 HB 9780857856876 • £75.00 / $100.00 • 2018

A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Enlightenment

FA S H I O N – M A J O R R E F E R E N C E W O R K S

Now Available in Paperback

Edited by Peter McNeil, University of Technology Sydney, Australia UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 288 pages • 103 bw illus PB 9781350204690 • £25.99 / $35.95 HB 9780857857613 • £75.00 / $100.00 • 2018

A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Modern Age Edited by Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum and University of Toronto, Toronto, Canada

UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 288 pages • 101 bw illus PB 9781350204591 • £25.99 / $35.95 HB 9780857856029 • £75.00 / $100.00 • 2018

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15

B

loomsbury Architecture Library is a dynamic research tool for architecture studies.

With cross-searchable access to an expanding range of text, image, and interactive content, this dynamic platform is essential for academics and provides innovative educational resources for students. The platform is comprised of multiple collections, detailed below.

Core Collection The Bloomsbury Architecture Library Core Collection offers an indispensable collection of resources to support the study of architecture, urbanism, and interior design.

• Exclusive digital access to the landmark new edition of the iconic Sir Banister Fletcher’s Global History of Architecture now in its 21st edition completely rewritten and up-to-date with a fully global perspective • Over 2,200 images from Sir Banister Fletcher With 600 more to come from National Archive at Kew

Architecture Design and Practice Online In partnership with Taylor and Francis, the Architecture Design & Practice Online collection includes over 200 titles focusing on studio design, technical detail, and professional practice.

Available via Subscription or Perpetual Access

www.bloomsburyarchitecturelibrary.com Also Available from Bloomsbury: Sir Banister Fletcher’s Global History of Architecture “ major monument in the writing of “A worldwide history.”

—Book of the Week, Times Higher Education Winner of the Colvin Prize 2020 (Society of Architectural Historians of Great Britain) 2020 Dartmouth Medal Honorable Mention Sir Banister Fletcher’s Global History of Architecture is the acknowledged classic reference work for architectural history. It has been essential reading since the first edition was published in 1896— and this tradition continues today as the new 21st edition provides the most updated, authoritative, and detailed account of the global history off architecture.

Produced in partnership with the RIBA and the University of London, the new edition of Sir Banister Fletcher’s Global History of Architecture is available both as printed edition, and for the first time as part of a fully searchable and interactive digital library available to institutions by annual subscription or on perpetual access.

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