Vancouver Island North Visitors' Guide 2011

Official guide to Vancouver Island North 2011

Escape into nature.

www.vancouverislandnor th.ca

www.nor thislandgazette.com

ACTIVITIES

Fishing FishingFicaboriam, venet, venitaerat.

Ut qui is pa voluptat res adist ut la illes soluptaturio tecuptatur? Quia ipiti dem quo odi aut landantiaes seritis maxim

ACTIVITIES | FISHING

Welcome to

Vancouver Island North

4 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Boomer Jerritt photo

V

ancouver Island North is the first word and last stop in western Canada for outdoor adventure. Unspoiled and largely undiscovered yet just a day’s travel from Vancouver, Victoria and Seattle, the upper third of the continent’s largest island offers a spectacularly green and aquamarine palette of forests, lakes, mountain peaks, saltwater inlets and jigsaw-puzzle coastline. Bears roam inland, whales splash about at sea and eagles soar overhead.

Our friendly and down-to-earth towns and villages welcome visitors with dining, shopping, cultural attractions and overnight options ranging from wilderness campgrounds to B&Bs, motels, hotels, cabins, cottages and resorts.

Spend long days engaged in fresh-air pleasures – fishing, hiking, kayaking, caving, wildlife watching, scuba diving, picnicking, golfing, skiing and beachcombing included. Then relax in comfort while trading stories, reviewing digital snapshots and planning tomorrow’s adventure.

Expert guides and charter operators serve up the super, all-natural thrills. Troll for salmon in Queen Charlotte Strait or trout in lakes and rivers. Watch in awe as muscular orcas spy hop in ocean waves. Ski the world-class powder at crowd-free Mount Cain. Photograph black bears on the island and their grizzly counterparts in wilderness refuges of the Great Bear Rainforest on the mainland coast. Try scuba diving at God’s Pocket Marine Park, surfing at Raft Cove or kayaking on the sheltered east or wild west coasts. Best of all, strap on a backpack for a trek into Cape Scott Provincial Park.

The Kwakwaka’wakw peoples have called this region home for thousands of years. Alert Bay is internationally known for its remarkable First Nations cultural centre, public dance performances and the world’s tallest totem pole. In Fort Rupert, visitors watch awestruck as native carvers transform raw wood into exquisite art.

Fishing, logging and mining drew the first European settlers north in the 1860s, and their history is documented in community museums throughout the region. The whale watching capital of Telegraph Cove is a virtual museum in itself with its wooden buildings, boardwalk and interpretive centre. Peaceful oceanfront communities like remain havens for the same getaway-from-it-all dreams that drew their original homesteaders.

Find yourself while getting lost in nature. Enjoy the amenities of our towns and villages. And visit during summer festival season for a colourful taste of local spirit. Whether you’re seeking adventure or relaxation, this remote yet accessible corner of British Columbia serves up outdoor pleasures with a satisfying dash of comfort close by.

Activities Caving.............................................. 18 Diving............................................... 19 First Nations............................... 20-21 Hiking......................................... 14-15 Kayaking..................................... 12-13 Museums.......................................... 28 Sportfishing....................................... 7 Travel................................................ 60 While He’s Fishing.........................8-9 Whales........................................ 10-11 © 2011 North Island Gazette.

No portion of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the North Island Gazette.

Facilities & Information Accommodations...................... 30-31 Dining Guide................................... 26 Charters............................................. 6 Regional Map............................ 32-33 Recreation Sites............................... 62

Published by North Island Gazette in partnership with Vancouver Island North Tourism Advisory Committee Box 458, Port Hardy, BC V0N 2P0 Phone 250-949-6225 Fax 250-949-7655 publisher@northislandgazette.com Front Cover Design: Primal Communications Maps: Strategic Forest Management

Communities Alert Bay........................................... 25 Cape Scott....................................... 15 Coal Harbour/Quatsino.................. 27 Holberg/Winter Harbour............... 29 Port Alice.................................... 34-37 Port Hardy.................................. 38-47 Port McNeill............................... 48-53 Sayward............................................ 55 Sointula....................................... 56-57 Telegraph Cove......................... 58-59 Woss/Nimpkish Valley.................... 61 Zeballos........................................... 62t

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ACTIVITIES

Charters

North Island d

FISHING ADVENTURES ~ ~ ~ ~

salt water charters salmon & halibut year round over 25 years guiding experience

Reasonable Rates

Roland Presseau

250-956-2272 cell: 250-230-4069 www.nishad.com rolandfg@telus.net

CODE 3 CHARTERS and accommodations

Regan Hickling

“30 years plus” experience in local waters

www.rumblebeachfishingcharter.com B 1, Box 1 Port P t Alice, Ali BC V0N 2N0 • 250-284-6204 or cell: 250-209-2779

• salmon, halibut, cod or crab fishing tours • wildlife viewing • sightseeing tours 250-956-0002 • cell: 250-230-1701 code3charters@telus.net • www.code3charters.com You get more than just a fishing charter with us!

Box 457 Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0

1-877-663-6722 www.whaletime.com • mackaybd@telus.net

SEASMOKE SAIL WITH THE WHALES

Sailing tours 4-5 hours Departs: Alert Bay & Alder Bay campsite Come stay with us at Alert Bay Accommodations www.alertbayaccommodations.com

SEASMOKE Whale Watching

1-800-668-ORCA (6722) 250-974-5225

www.seasmokewhalewatching.com

6 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

ACTIVITIES | FISHING

ACTIVITIES

Sportsfishing A

ll five varieties of Pacific salmon migrate through the Queen Charlotte Strait to spawning grounds further south. That means North Island fisher folk get first dibs on these delicious (especially when barbequed with a touch of lemon and plenty of butter) members of the fish genus known as Oncorhynchus (aka the big pink ones). .

Float your own boat at a convenient ramp or launch site. Or hire a charter operator. Our salty sea dogs can spin some great tales while supplying all the gear, licenses and advice necessary to reel in prize catches. Comfortable modern fishing vessels and heritage boats alike are available by the hour, half-day or day.

Visitor Information Centers have leads on guides and useful tips on what’s biting when and where. Also available are maps of the logging roads that head to trout-filled wilderness lakes and streams. These routes are bumpy, and a solid four-wheel drive vehicle is recommended (but not essential provided one drives slow and easy).

Be sure to time your visit for when the fish are running. Salmon numbers peak in the summer and fall. Halibut are the catch-of-the-day in the spring. (Always consider releasing larger fish to ensure this renewable resource continues to return in volume each year). Red snapper and cod are also on the menu locally, as are crab, prawns, oysters and mussels. Ask around at dockside or at a local Fish and Wildlife office about regulations, licenses, conservation areas and potentially hazardous “red tide” conditions.

Top 10 Fishing Holes Freshwater

Saltwater

Nimpkish Lake Schoen Lake Roberts Lake Victoria Lake Woss Lake Alice Lake Kains Lake Nahwitti Lake O’Connor Lake Roselle Lake

Blackfish Sound Dillon, Daphne and Duval Points Gordon Group Masterman Island Deserters Group Telegraph Cove Cormorant Island Cluxewe River Mouth Haddington Island Quatsino Sound

Tides and Tales photo

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ACTIVITIES

While They’re Fishing

Steve L. Fines photo

Port Hardy Museum & Gift Shop Open Tuesday to Saturday 10:00am to noon & 1:00pm to 5:00pm Extended hours in summer Permanent & temporary museum exhibits Native art • silver jewelry • local interest books • souvenirs • unique giftware 7110 Market St, Port Hardy • 250-949-8143

Blonde Ambition creates a relaxing atmosphere for all you tired travellers. Creating packages that meet all your needs.

B

Blonde Ambition

Come in or call today to see what we have to offer.

Hairstylist: Cara Strasdine Working with all ages to accommodate any service. Senior colour specialist

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Black Bear Resort & Spa Come visit us!

A

dults only fitness centre

~ Pedicures ~ Manicures ~ Waxing ~ Body Treatment ~ Facials ~ Massage

Full range of products available

Pool ~ Sauna ~ Hottub 1-866-956-4900 • www.blackbearresort.net

To reach our Garden, turn off Hwy 19 at Nimpkish Heights Road, left onto Nicholson Road, house #920 Marilyn and Joe Shephard

250-949-9798 7205 Market St. Port Hardy

250-956-4709

ACTIVITIES | miscellaneous

• Check coffeeshop bulletin boards or the “Hot Spots” section of the North Island Gazette. Both provide the latest on festivals, concerts, special events, exhibits and other fun activities.

• Shop for art, crafts, fashion and edible goodies (smoked salmon, for instance, delivers the ultimate in North Island foodie pleasure). Galleries, retail outlets and museum gift shops sell the splendid, nature-inspired work of local artisans and First Nations artists – jewellers, carvers, painters, sculptors, photographers and textile workers included.

• Enjoy a drop-in work-out, yoga class or pick-up basketball game at recreation centres in the region.

• Make a splash at the indoor pool in Port Hardy, then relax in the hot tub and sauna. Or, rather more bravely, dip feet, knees, perhaps even the entire body into one of our many cold, crystal clear lakes and rivers.

• Pamper, delight and spoil yourself with a spa or massage package that generates warmth from the inside out. Let the fingers of skilled bodyworkers do the walking in Port Hardy and Port McNeill.

• Turn to page 28 in this guide and plan a whirlwind tour of museums found in Alert Bay, Port Hardy, Port McNeill, Port Alice, Telegraph Cove, Sointula and even tiny Echo Bay. • Experience First Nations culture and traditional dances (July and August only) at the ‘Namgis Big House in Alert Bay. Just down the hill is the U’mista Cultural Centre and its priceless collection of potlatch regalia.

• Learn about marine mammals and the diverse ecology of the Johnstone Strait at Telegraph Cove’s Whale Interpretive Centre. Children’s games and interactive displays make this a popular spot for youngsters.

• Check out Port Hardy’s newly-upgraded Quatse River Hatchery and Salmon Stewardship Centre to see these remarkable fish in the flesh and learn about their importance to the local economy.

Consuela’s Relaxation & Well Being

Hot Stone w/Thai Stem, Chakra, Facials, Indian Head Massage & Paraffin Foot Wrap

Telegraph Cove BBQ

Burger & home cut fries

Please call for appointment 250-230-0150

Serving the North Island for all your real estate needs.

Interested in properties available on the North Island?

Joan Bliss

Sales Represenatative

Bliss is finding your perfect property

250-949-0527

jbliss@recn.ca www.joanbliss.com More firms independently owned and operated.

9.95

$

Luxurious Gifts for Women

Your choice of burger… g Wild Salmon Island Bison

6oz Beef Veggie

Sunny Patio - Fine Arts

Patio seats 60 - Organic fair-trade espresso - Breakfast from 7am

www.seahorsecafe.org (250) 527-1001

Café Guido & West Coast Community Craft Shop SHOP - local art is featured in West Coast Community Craft Shop gallery SIP - indulge in espressos & sweet homemade scones at Café Guido SAVOUR - great new books and funky giftware in the Book Nook 7135 Market Street, Port Hardy Café & Books: 250.949.9808 Gallery: 250-949-2650

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ACTIVITIES

Tide Rip Grizzly Tours

Wildlife & Whales

Grizzly Bears of Knight Inlet 30’ vessel with onboard washroom

1-888-643-9319 Phone: 250-928-3090 • Fax: 250-339-6294 tiderip@telus.net • www.tiderip.com

Departs early each day from Telegraph Cove Tide Rip Tours Ltd. Box 2-12, Telegraph Cove, BC V0N 3J0

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Jackie Hildering photo www.themarinedetective.com

ACTIVITIES | wildlife

T

he wildlife easily outnumbers the residents of Vancouver Island North. Expect your first sightings to be bald eagles riding the updrafts overhead or perhaps a black bear munching on sweet grass at the edge of Highway 19 (locally known as “bear alley”). Roosevelt Elk and Vancouver Island Marmot are unique to the region. Though shy and rarely seen, wolves and cougars roam the backwoods. Great blue herons fish at the edge of estuaries that echo with the sweet call of songbirds.

Whale-watching captains obey federal regulations and keep a respectful distance from orcas, humpback whales and other awesome marine animals at sea, and so should you (always stay a minimum of 100 meters away). But what about your own dry-land encounters with the area’s wild things? To stay safe and make the most of these rare photo opportunities, please follow the following when encountering wildlife: • Always travel in a group for safety when hiking in the woods.

• Keep a close eye on small children and pets. Wild animals may mistake them for an easy meal.

• Talk, sing, whistle or wear a bell when hiking in order to avoid startling a wild animal that may respond with defensive behaviours. This is particularly important in high winds or near loud water.

• If you encounter a wild animal, stay back a respectful distance so that they do not feel threatened. If the animal leaves the area, do not follow it.

• Do not feed wild animals. Human food makes them sick and leads to dependency. Heavy fines are levied against anyone caught feeding the bears or other animals.

• Campers and fishermen need to carefully pack their food and catches away. If one or more bears do approach a cache of food, play it safe and let them have their prize.

• If confronted by a wild animal, pick up small children, make yourself look as large as possible, back away slowly and leave the area.

• Do not try to “rescue” young animals, no matter where or in what condition you find them. All animals can and will defend their young vigorously.

• If you are attacked by a wild animal, fight back using any means available to you.

•Pepper spray, sold as a bear deterrent, is not always effective. The safest encounter is one that is avoided.

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ACTIVITIES

Kayaking BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGO.ca Sea Kayaking in Comfort

Float house Inn Waterfront Cabins Kayak Tours & Rentals Water Taxi Service On-site Massage

250-230-0088

PADDLER’S INN.ca Sea Kayaking with Whales Vancouver Island - Haida Gwaii - Great Bear Rainforest

• No Experience Necessary For Most Tours • Base Camp and Expedition Style Tours • Maximum of 8 Guests with 2 Guides • One to Fifteen Day Adventures • Scheduled Family Departures

www.kingfisher.ca

Sea Kayaking Whale Watching Lodge-Based Multi-Sport Yoga Family Mothership Tours Explorer Tours Conservation Tours

1-866-546-4347

1-800-616-1943 www.seakayakadventures.com info@seakayakadventures.com Boomer Jerritt photo

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ACTIVITIES | kayaking

S

trap your kayak to your roof rack, rent from a local outfitter, or sign up for a guided kayak tour then dip your paddle into the seas, rivers, and lakes of Vancouver Island North. This is world-class paddling destination known for its abundant wildlife, well-charted channels, easy crossings between islands, some tricky technical passages when the tides are running, and no end of beaches on which to rest, relax and picnic.

The postcard like scenery and wildlife of Johnstone Strait, the Broughton Archipelago, and Quatsino Sound is even more magnificent when viewed from a kayak seat perched inches above the waves. View the riot of intertidal life in the clear, cold waters. And the marine wildlife – seals, sea lions, Orcas and humpback whales included – is happy to welcome respectful, low-impact visitors to their aquatic playground.

Guides and fellow kayakers become fast friends on day trips or longer excursions that might include sleepovers in rustic campgrounds, comfortable base camps, or luxurious resorts hidden away on remote beaches and islands.

Weather and sea conditions can change quickly, so be prepared and travel in a group. A number of local kayaking companies offer tours, lessons and rentals.

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ACTIVITIES

Cape Scott Provincial Park www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks

T

he windswept northern tip of Vancouver Island is home to Cape Scott Provincial Park. Still relatively undiscovered, the park’s sweeping tidal flats, forested trails and ocean-slammed headlands are showing up on the radar of an international backpacking community.

Cape Scott & North Coast Trail

Water Taxi Service For over 10 years we have been involved with construction of the North Coast Trail as well as transporting customers by water to Cape Scott Park.

• We know the area well • Water Taxi with us - Park for FREE • North Coast Trail Guide Map available • Kayakers/Kayaks welcome

Port Hardy, BC

1-800-515-5511 Cell: 250-902-1031

porthardyjim@hotmail.com http://northcoasttrailwatertaxi.com/

All members of the family will enjoy the 90-minute return trip to San Josef Bay’s sandy beach on a well-groomed path from the trailhead parking lot.

Or for the ultimate in backcountry adventure, try the original Cape Scott Trail and, more daunting still, the North Coast Trail. The latter is a particularly challenging route for experienced hikers only that traverses steep headlands, muddy swamps and cavernous gorges with the aid of fixed ropes, boardwalks and cable cars. The two trails add up to a 54km one-way trip that requires a minimum of five days.

Access the North Coast Trail through the Cape Scott trailhead by driving via Holberg on the gravel logging road or arrange a shuttle from Port Hardy.

Water access to the other end of the trail, Shushartie Bay, is also available via Port Hardy by water taxi.

Many backpackers who want a taste of the region without the longer treks embark from the Cape Scott trailhead to Nissen Bight, Nels Bight and Guise Bay, all within a day’s hike. Those who head to Cape Scott itself are invited to sign the guest book at the lighthouse. Expect to see some abandoned buildings and other trace evidence of the late 19th century Danish settlers who tried to make this beautiful area their new home in the new world.

Come prepared! The weather is highly changeable, and layered clothing topped by sturdy rain gear is essential.

Boomer Jerritt photo

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ACTIVITIES | hiking

ACTIVITIES

Hiking V

ancouver Island North is a hiker’s paradise. Trails and abandoned logging roads penetrate deep into the landscape, offering easy access to remote forests, streams, and lakes. Many seaside communities are lined with wheelchair-accessible seawalls and boardwalks perfect for family outings and romantic sunset strolls prior to an evening meal. Check in at local Visitor Centres for details on hiking options such as the following: • Port Hardy’s Quatse Loop and Estuary trails lead from the fisherman’s wharf and oceanfront hotels. The Quatse Estuary is home to eagles, herons and all kinds of birdlife. The forested 2.5 km Quatse Loop trail veers off and follows the river past the new Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre with its interpretive displays and hatchery.

• Beachcombers flock to Storey’s Beach, an inviting stretch of sand, near Fort Rupert, just south of Port Hardy. Wade in the gentle tides or tackle the rugged 11-km out-and-back Tex Lyon Trail.

• All the First Nations must-sees of Alert Bay on Cormorant Island are within an easy hike of the ferry terminal. There’s an uphill climb to the Ecological Park, but otherwise the strolling is mostly sea level along the restored boardwalk and oceanfront seawall.

• Follow in the footsteps of Sointula’s pioneers along Malcolm Island’s historical Mateoja Trail. Watch for orcas when hiking the 10-km return trip on the Beautiful Bay Trail.

• The Sayward Futures Society manages a series of lovely wilderness hiking tails, including the two-hour forested Cottonwood Loop and, for those with the four-wheel drive vehicles necessary to access it, the Stowe Creek Trail leading to the peak of H’Kusam Mountain.

250-956-2411

info@islanddaytrippers.com www.islanddaytrippers.com Port McNeill, BC

Book a Hike Now!

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Looking for an adventure?

Come explore the new

Cape Scott North Coast Trail Opened May 2008

• no crowds and no reservation system • isolated and exotic nature • more sandy beaches than the West Coast Trail • world-class destination • best suited for the most hardy and independent hikers • trail is divided into six segments www.northcoasttrail.com www.norther nvancouverislandtrailssociety.com www.capescottwatertaxi.ca www.islanddaytrippers.com www.northcoasttrailwatertaxi.com www.northcoasttrailshuttle.com

“I wanted to say thank you to both of you and to the entire group who have created the North Coast Trail (NCT). This really was an amazing trail that totally impressed me with its ruggedness, challenge and beauty. The trail was in excellent condition and was thoroughly enjoyed.”

— Bryson Sask “The folks who have re-established this 60 kilometre, old settler/ native trail have done an amazing job” — Ken Robertson “Great strategic planning of where to put the trail amongst such a dense forest! The ropes were helpful and we all felt lucky to be early in the use of the trail as time will probably erode some of the “peat steps” which we found so helpful! The boardwalk is nice across beautiful bogs and it is also nice to not have as much of it as to Cape Scott.”

— Donna Heinrich “I would hate to see any more improvements made to the trail, it is awesome the way it is.”

— Ken & Trudy Benner photo credit: Dan Friedman

The North Coast Trail…a World Class Experience

ACTIVITIES

Caving

T

here is no shortage of sea level and higher thrills locally. Yet adventurers also go underground exploring the highest concentration of caves in Canada. Water has worked its alchemical magic on the rugged landscape for hundreds of thousands of years. Result: The relatively soft karst (limestone) topography is riddled with networks of subterranean getaways – some suitable for beginners, others only for the most expert cavers (aka “spelunkers” or “potholers”).

Rookies of all ages can test their nerves, hard hats and strap-on headlamps at Little Huson Caves Regional Park, a 45-minute drive south of Port McNeill off of the Zeballos road. A self-guided tour here includes stops at a natural rock bridge and walk-in, cathedral-style cave.

Also within the Port McNeill region is the Vanishing River, which dips underground for the length of ten football fields before rising again to the surface. Enroute to Port Alice is the Eternal Fountain with its soothing waterfall, and the Devil’s Bath, an eerie lake that some fanciful souls claim is bottomless.

Experienced cavers can explore some of the longest, deepest karst caves in Canada on Vancouver Island North.

Several are concentrated in an area rich in limestone called the Quatsino formation.

Guides are strongly recommended for the more difficult treks, and regional authorities ask that spelunkers steer clear of any unmapped caves. Information about the sport on Vancouver Island (aka the “island of caves”) can be found through the Canadian Caver Website at HYPERLINK “http://www.cancaver.ca”www.cancaver.ca.

Boomer Jerritt photo

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ACTIVITIES

Diving V

ancouver Island North is worldrenown for its diving. These cold (around 8˙C), clear, currentfed waters house an extraordinary diversity of life in jaw-dropping density.

Enjoy stunning colour in great, dense stretches. More than ten species of sea slug can be seen on a single dive. Giant Pacific octopuses and wolf eels are abundant and rockfish may school around you. Note that the size of organisms in these rich waters often exceeds the limits given in field guides. The rock walls themselves are splashed with colour in the form of pink soft coral, multi-hued sponges and vibrant anemones and sea stars.

This is an underwater photographer’s paradise.

The seemingly endless stretches of coastline on Northern Vancouver Island provide equally endless dive opportunities. From the concentration of dive sites in the Broughton and Blackfish Archipelagos, to the gardens of Zeballos; from the expansive walls of Browning Pass near God’s Pocket Marine Provincial Park, to the vibrant life of Quatsino Narrows, you can never tire of the great adventure of diving in this area.

One could choose to rent gear (dry suits are a must) and seek the expertise of a local operator who will escort divers to the prime locations, opt for the adventure of a live-aboard, or settle into the comfort of a dive resort situated close to the best diving spots. Experience a cold-water diver’s paradise and be advised, very likely, one trip won’t be enough.

Jackie Hildering photo www.marinedetective.com

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ACTIVITIES

First Nations E

ight thousand years ago – a millennia after the last ice age and long before the first Egyptian pyramids were erected – Canada’s First Nations shared this wild coastal region with eagles, black bears, orca whales and salmon. In fatal danger of extinction not long ago, timeless ancient traditions are again thriving as the Kwakwaka’wakw First Nation preserve and sustain their culture through art, dance, music, language and a sustainable day-to-day relationship with the natural world.

Alert Bay on Cormorant Island is internationally renowned for its storytelling, summertime dance performances and the potlatch treasures housed inside the must-see U’mista Cultural Centre. The world’s tallest totem pole stands vigil outside the ‘Namgis Big House. Take a canoe trip or enjoy a salmon barbecue with First Nations guides. And visit an oceanfront graveyard filled with colorful memorial poles (please view respectfully from road only).

Boomer Jerritt photo

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ACTIVITIES | FISHING

F

ort Rupert on the southern outskirts of Port Hardy is home to the Kwakiutl First Nation.

This friendly enclave by the sea is known for pubic galleries where internationally renowned carvers create magnificent art from chunks of timber. Affordable gifts and prints can be purchased here.

The MV Uchuck plies west coast routes on weekly runs, between June and September, to fascinating North Island communities like Zeballos. Booking passage on the boat’s departures from Gold River is a fantastic way to explore First Nations history – especially on the ride out to Friendly Cove, site of the historic first meeting between the Mowachaht/ Muchalat and explorers from England and Spain in 1778.

Soak up the sights and experiences here, then use Port Hardy’s ferry terminal as the jumping off point for further First Nations adventure north on the BC mainland. Visit the villages of Bella Bella and Klemtu, then head onwards to magical Haida Gwaii (the Queen Charlotte Islands) from Prince Rupert.

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Communities

Alert Bay Home of the Killer Whale www.AlertBay.ca Visitor Centre 250-974-5024

Alert Bay Lodge

Waterfront Accommodation Overlooking Johnstone Strait

~ Genuine hospitality & home-cooked meals ~ Grizzly, whale tours & private charters

www.alertbaylodge.com ~ 1.800.255.5057 22 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

OCEANVIEW Cabins

Your home away from home

1-877-974-5457 1-877-974-5457

Alert Bay, British Columbia, Canada, www.alertbay.com/oceanview

communities | Alert bay

A

rriving via a scenic 40-minute ferry ride from Port McNeill, visitors will experience a rare, precious and utterly unique First Nation Cultural tourism destination. Alert Bay is said to be the last authentic fishing village on Canada’s west coast.

Alert Bay offers visitors “down home” restaurants, art galleries, museums, a bustling marina, friendly locals and cozy accommodations set within an unparalleled Northern Pacific wilderness environment. The small town centre, with its colorful heritage buildings dating back to 1870, sits on the sheltered western coastline of Cormorant Island. ‘Yalis is home to the ‘Namgis of the Kwakwaka’wakw. (Kwakwala speaking people)

Boomer Jerritt photo

Bikes in the Bay Alert Bay Accommodations

www.alertbayaccommodations.com

1-800-668-6722 250-974-5225

$25 Full Day ✦ $15 Half Day

— RENT A BIKE — 250-974-2221

Looking Good Salon FULL SERVICE SALON Fully equipped fitness gym on location

Downtown Alert Bay - turn right off ferry 1/2 block Open 9-5 Tuesday to Saturday Sunday/Monday rentals - Please phone ahead gorval@cablerocket.com Brenda Gordon Ask about our Apres Bike SPA Treatments

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Alert Bay Discover Our World Arts, Culture and Heritage

U’mista Cultural Centre Alert Bay Visitor Centre and Art Gallery Alert Bay Library and Museum Big House and World’s Tallest Totem Pole ‘Namgis Burial Ground and Memorial Totems

Activities

Whale Watching Fishing Nature Trails Traditional Canoes Tennis Courts

Health

Hospital/Health Centre Personal Care Services

Business

Full Service Marina Accommodations Grocery Store, Restaurants and Giftshops Campground Pubs/Liquor Store Post Office Pharmacy Churches Electronic Repairs Video Rentals Banking

For your cultural planning contact:

For general inquiries contact:

U’mista Cultural Centre Ph: 250-974-5403 Fx: 250-974-5499 1-800-690-8222 Email: info@umista.ca www.umista.ca

Alert Bay Visitor Centre Ph: 250-974-5024 Fx: 250-974-5026 1-800-690-8222 Email: info@alertbay.ca www.alertbay.ca

communitieS | alert bay ’mista Cultural Centre, an internationally-renowned cultural centre and museum, showcases the famed “Potlatch Collection” of ceremonial regalia, confiscated from the Kwakwaka’wakw in 1922 and reclaimed from various institutions and private collections around the world. U’mista is the starting point for a remarkable First Nation experience.

U

Home to the world’s tallest totem pole, carved in two sections by six Kwakwaka’wakw artists, it was originally 53m/173 feet, but during a storm in 2007, the top 10 feet of the pole fell to the ground. Watch traditional dance performances by the T’sasala Cultural Group in the traditional Big House. Visit the ‘Namgis Burial Ground to see memorial and other totem poles. (please view respectfully from the road only). Join in unique adventures such as canoe trips, salmon barbecues and Island tours provided by local guides.

Cormorant Island has more than 10 km (6 miles) of hiking and biking trails. The Ecological Park above town features a boardwalk through marshland as well as an easy forest trail network marked with interpretive signage. Embark on a whale-watching expedition or spot marine wildlife from land. Steep climbs may make parts of the island a challenge, so it is recommended that visitors bring their vehicles.

Boomer Jerritt photo

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ACTIVITIES

Dining Eat in, take out or drive thru

Something for everyone!

250-949-2345 8950 Granville St. (Thunderbird Mall)

“The best kept secret”

Malone’s Bistro

Daily Specials Fresh Seasonal Menu

Mon-Sat: 11am-2pm & 5pm-8pm

Cater to Special Diets

250-949-3050

Banquet Facilities

9300 Trustee Rd Upper NI Mall Port Hardy

Great Kids’ Menu

• Family Room Available • Creative Daily Specials • 16 TV Screens for all your Sports Needs & Special Events

250-949-7811

www.thesporty.com 8700 Hastings St. Port Hardy • Canadian & Chinese Cuisine • Eat-in or Take-out • Fully licensed dining room • Banquet facilities • Meeting rooms 4030 Byng Road, Port Hardy Located in the Airport Inn

You will enjoy the relaxing ambiance of our dining room, fresh premium seafood. Our adjoining family restaurant has a great children’s menu and the best fish & chips on the North Island…all at affordable prices.

Reservations are suggested.

250.949.8381

Harbourview Restaurant Daily specials Open 7 days a week Breakfast, lunch & dinner Fully licensed Port McNeill located at the Dalewood Inn 250-956-3304 ext 161

Enjoy the harbour view from both locations

Take-out and delivery available www.pmhotels.com

located in the Haida-Way Hotel Port McNeill, BC

250-956-3263

Bo•Banee’s Cafe Featuring MEXICAN cuisine, and WESTERN fare.

Fabulous HOMEMADE PIES, made with love

Port Hardy located at the Glen Lyon Inn 250-949-7122

26 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

#4-1705 CAMPBELL WAY • PORT MCNEILL

250-956-2739

communities | coal harbour & quatsino

Communities

Coal Harbour & Quatsino www.Quatsino.org

P

retty Coal Harbour has been a mining town, military base and whaling station at various times over the past century.

Today it’s a quiet and convenient (20 minutes from Port Hardy) departure point for boaters, kayakers and charter fishing expeditions destined for the calm waters of Quatsino Sound and the wilder open Pacific beyond.

An inviting waterfront is one of the upsides of this small hamlet, as is the lovely, winding drive. Not to be missed (and impossible to do so) is the reminder of Coal Harbour’s claim to fame as North America’s last-ever whaling station – namely a mammoth (6m/20 ft) jawbone of a blue whale, the largest of the ocean’s behemoths. Times have changed, and whales are now revered here – sometimes in the form of artwork created by local artisans based in home studios.

Fishing guides are available to track down the best spots for salmon and halibut, and outings are as much about wildlife watching (orcas and humpback whales included) as reeling in the big one. The Koprino River Estuary is known for its bald eagles, herons, gulls and other birds of a feather.

The historic hamlet of Quatsino is a quick water-taxi ride away from Coal Harbour and is otherwise only accessible by boat or floatplane. St. Olaf’s Anglican Church, built in 1897 as a oneroom schoolhouse, is one point of interest. The quaint local museum and archives is located across from the government dock and offers Internet service during its early afternoon operating hours. Quatsino is a great R&R stopover for kayakers and fishing groups, and home to several lodges and sport fishing charter companies.

Tides and Tales photo

We offer 2 & 3 bedroom, fully furnished apartments and townhouses.

Situated in a pristine, rural setting overlooking Holberg Inlet, our apartments are ideal for tenants looking for a quiet place to call home.

250.949.8855 445 Coal Harbour Rd Coal Harbour

w w w. t w o c e a n s . c o m twoceansbc@gmail.com

“Twoceans for the Price of One”

www.northislandgazette.com | 27

ACTIVITIES

Museums F

rom First Nations culture to marine ecology, utopian settlements to logging, fishing and mining, Vancouver Island North boasts a surprisingly diverse range of cultural treasure boxes packed with colorful displays and exhibits.

• Go back to the source at the Port Hardy Museum and Archives, which houses artifacts from a local archeological dig at Bear Cove – the oldest known site of human habitation on Vancouver Island (circa 5850 BCE). Exhibits change regularly while shining thematic lights on First Nations history, the Hudson’s Bay Company and European settlement.

• The U’mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay is rated far and wide as one of Canada’s finest museums with its unparalleled collection of potlatch regalia. Modeled after a big house, it is dedicated to preserving the heritage of the Kwakwaka’wakw First Nation. The gift shop features superb jewelry, carvings, textiles and more.

• Forestry has been the North Island’s leading commercial activity since European settlers arrived in the 1860s. Based in a sturdy log house, the Port McNeill Heritage Museum traces local history with archival photos, exhibits and vintage logging equipment.

• An easy walk from the ferry landing, the Sointula Museum is home to artifacts, archival records and displays related to the colourful history of Malcolm Island. A primary focus is on the Finnish immigrants who arrived here in the 1880s to launch a short-lived utopian commune.

• Boaters heading northwest across the Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound are advised to linger in Echo Bay and visit Bill Procter’s Museum and Gift Shop. The author and life-long area resident has collected fascinating memorabilia from the logging, fishing and trapping eras.

• Telegraph Cove’s family friendly Whale Interpretive Centre is dedicated to raising public awareness about the fragile ecosystem and migratory inhabitants of the Johnstone Strait. Highlights include interactive displays, a kid’s corner, educational films and the skeletal remains of whales, otters, dolphins and other regional wildlife.

• The Port Alice Heritage Centre above the fire hall offers a look at the town’s intriguing history. It’s also the site of the Visitor Information Centre and a gift shop that sells locally made art, crafts, fashion items, greeting cards, honey and jams.

Teresa Bird, Ken Manning & JR Rardon photos

28 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Communities

Holberg/Winter Harbour www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks www.NorthCoastTrail.com

O

Once the site of the world’s largest floating logging camp, Holberg is an hour’s drive northwest of Port Hardy and the last stop before magnificent Cape Scott Provincial Park. The gravel logging road is part of the fun, especially when stopping at the Shoe Tree – started as a joke by a local resident but now a Vancouver Island legend thanks to the hundreds of boots, sandals and footwear on its trunk and slung across its branches.

Holberg is worth a long linger, and not strictly to enjoy the pub food and welcoming ambience at the renowned Scarlet Ibis. Pick up the provisions for the hiking, surfing or kayaking adventures ahead. And visit Ronning’s Garden, a circa 1910 homestead located near the San Josef Wagon Road whose vast and exotic grounds, complete with monkey puzzle trees, sit in the middle of the rainforest. This unique garden, started in 1910 by the original owner who brought in fascinating plants from around the world, almost disappeared after his death but today has been restored.

Outdoor adventure is top priority for most visitors. Cape Scott Provincial Park is an unspoiled wonderland with its deserted beaches, sculpted coastline and marathon hiking trails. Raft Cove Provincial Park attracts daytrippers and campers who set up their tents on ATTENTION HIKERS! the sandy beach. And please keep it quiet, but surfers Last stop going in…First stop who prize seclusion and best-kept-secret beachfronts coming out for Cape Scott have rediscovered Raft Cove’s big waves.

Provincial Park From Holberg, the gravel road ends at Winter Harbour, North America’s western-most settlement. This tiny and historic fishing village offers safe year-round anchorage, a seaside boardwalk and access to oceanfront hikes along Botel Park Trail and out to the prime beachcombing at Grant Bay. Kayakers won’t be able to resist the many paddling adventures in Quatsino Sound available via a Winter Harbour launch.

Boomer Jerritt photo

Good food, good friends & good times for the entire family

Open Tues - Sat• 12pm - 10pm Sun & Mon • 12pm - 9pm

Downtown Holberg 250-288-3386

www.northislandgazette.com | 29

Communities

Accommodations Gatewate to the Wild and Wonderful West Coast www.PortAlice.ca Village Office 250-284-3391

Jessie’s B&B & Gallery

First Choice B&B 7071 McDougal Place, Port Hardy bbcanada.com smarty2@telus.net

Jessie Roland

Old fashioned comfort with *cozy quilts, comfy beds, queen and twins *fresh bread & jam, smoked salmon & cheese *full suite with all the amenities of home *walk to beach, shops, restaurants 250-949-7524

5710 Hardy Bay Rd Box 11, Port Hardy V0N 2P0

250-949-8953

cell: 250-230-2520

Beach House

Enjoy the ocean view while relaxing in the hottub!

Bed and Breakfast

PO Box 1578 2250 Beach Drive Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0 www.beachhousebandb.ca office@beachhousebandb.ca Phone: 250.956.4993 Toll Free: 1.877.956.4993

Private bath & entrance

At Water’s Edge Bed & Breakfast MAGNIFICENT OCEAN VIEW PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION FAMILY FRIENDLY, PETS WELCOME

Hostess: Karen Stewart 2202 Beach Drive Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0

250-956-2912 1-866-956-2912

4 oceanfront guest rooms each room with ensuite & private entrance (US & Can only) Full hot breakfast www.atwatersedge.ca Open year round info@atwatersedge.ca

30 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

facilities | accommodations

Sandy Grenier photos

B&B Beverly & Jerry Reed 7735 Cedar Place, Port Hardy oceanvue@island.net • www.island.net/~oceanvue

250.949.8302

Enjoy our new oceanfront suites as B&B or B-on-your-own Fully self-contained suites for rent by day, week, month Private Entrance Full Kitchen Laundry Facilities

250.949.7338

smasales@telus.net http://www.bbcanada.com/scotiabay

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGO.ca Floathouse Inn & Cabin Waterfront Cottage Catered or Kitchenettes Kayak Tours & Rentals On-site Massage Water Taxi

PADDLER’S INN.ca 250-230-0088

CODE 3 CHARTERS

Jan Bullock 250-973-6925 470-2nd St. Box 164 Sointula, BC V0N 3E0 daryljan@cablerocket.com www.jansplace.ca

www.alertbayaccommodations.com

1-800-668-6722 250-974-5225

private hottub • queen size beds • satellite TV • wireless Internet • breakfast included 250-956-0002 • cell: 250-230-1701

spacious ~ self contained studio ~ full kitchen ~ satellite tv ~ sleeps 5

Alert Bay Accommodations

and accommodations

code3charters@telus.net • www.code3charters.com Box 457 Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0

Greatiew v ocean

Jan’s Place

2 rooms www.northislandgazette.com | 31

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communities

Port Alice Gateway to the Wild and Wonderful West Coast www.PortAlice.ca Village Office 250-284-3391

P

eaceful Port Alice attracts fresh-air enthusiasts craving crowd-free access to the great outdoors.

Perched on a pretty hillside facing Neroutsos Inlet, this thriving community is the most southerly access point to Quatsino Sound, the spectacularly beautiful ocean inlet that cuts deep inland and gives kayakers, scuba divers and sports fishermen access to the open Pacific.

The town is a base camp for expeditions via boat or logging road to such remote getaways as Side Bay, Gooding Cove, Harvey Cove, Brooks Peninsula and Klaskino Inlet. Get out on the water with a charter fishing or wildlife-viewing guide. Or stay on dry land by exploring the Marble River Trail leading to breathtaking Bear Falls. The trailhead is located just off Hwy 30 to Port Alice. Also not far from town are the Link River and Spruce Bay campgrounds at Victoria and Alice lakes, both favorite spots for freshwater fishing and outdoor recreation.

Cyclists of all skill levels tackle the trails on Rumble Mountain and experienced daredevils compete in the annual Rumblefest event in June. Geology buffs are fascinated by Devil’s Bath, Disappearing River and the Eternal Fountain, all part of the vast stretches of limestone that make Vancouver Island North prime spelunking (caving) country. Also nearby is the Port Alice Golf and Country Club, a challenging nine-hole course set against glorious mountain vistas.

Visitors to Port Alice will find beautiful and modern B&B’s, vacation rental homes, a hotel and a fullservice campground. Services include grocery, hardware and liquor stores, a bank and restaurants.

In the heart of the village, the Tourism & Heritage Center offers information for travelers and a welldocumented look into Port Alice’s past. Enjoy its present when strolling the Seawalk, a wheelchairaccessible pathway that follows the community coastline. Have a picnic here, hike to Walk-out island when the tide is out and bring a pair of binoculars. Hundreds of species of birds visit Neroutsos Inlet throughout the year, and the offshore waters are home to orca, humpback and grey whales, Stellar sea lions and migrating salmon.

So whether you are seeking a quiet place to relax, surrounded by majestic west coast scenery or you are a do-it-yourself adventurer, Port Alice is a community that meets your needs.

Port Alice RV Park & Campground & Oceanview Restaurant

l u f i t u Beeaanview 1201 Marine Dr. oc

full hookups cablevision tenting laundry facilities wheelchair accessible boat storage coffee shop full washrooms with large showers

Port Alice, BC

(250) 284-3422

Ozzie & Retta Vezina 34 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Boomer Jerritt photo

Inlet Haven B&B

• totally private entrances • all rooms nonsmoking • wireless Internet • pets & children welcome Jim & Bonnie Overland

Port A Po Port Ali Alice, lice c , BC ce C www.inlethaven.com jimbon@cablerocket.com

250-284-3216

communities | Port alice

C O P P E R

C O A S T

Private ~ Protected ~ Peaceful Stay a night, a week or a lifetime

1.877.762.2628 info@coppercoastresort.com

www.coppercoastresort.com www.northislandgazette.com | 35

Welcome to

Port Alice

Gateway to the Wild West Coast

T

he Village of Port Alice lies at the end of a scenic 30 minute drive along Highway 30, which is accessed off Highway 19 between Port McNeill and Port Hardy. After taking the highway’s last turn into the community, visitors will marvel at the vastness of the majestic ocean inlet and lush green forest into which Port Alice is nestled. Regular sightings of eagles, deer, various fish and whale species, sea lions and even the odd black bear immediately let visitors know they have broken away from the bustle of urban living. At the same time, a wide range of community services, accommodations, food & beverage services, sightseeing or fishing charters and, some very popular seasonal special events provide travelers with a wide range of modern amenities. For the do-it-yourself adventurer Port Alice and area is a mecca of outdoor opportunities; camping, kayaking, fishing, hiking, caving, mountain biking….stop into the Village’s Tourism Information & Heritage Centre for detailed information. The well-kept Village boasts friendly people, a scenic seawalk spanning the length of town and an oceanside park to enjoy a picnic. Port Alice looks forward to hosting you!

For more information

Web: www.portalice.ca Email: info@portalice.ca Phone: 250.284.3391 Fax: 250.284.3416 Special Events (Please call for dates - 250-284-3391) • • • •

RumbleFest Bike Race Oscar Hickes Memorial Hockey Tournament Port Alice Christmas Craft Fair Mount Waddington Regional Fall Fair

Port Alice Offers • RV Park & Campgrounds • Free Sani-Dump • Boat Launch • Health Centre • Bank & ATM • Gas Station • Boat Fuel Services • Fishing & Sightseeing Charters

• Thrift Store • Hardware Store • Food & Beverage Services • Tourism & Heritage Centre • Grocery Stores • Post Office • Liquor Store • Library

Accommodations Copper Coast

www.coppercoastresort.com

1-877-762-2628 Forest Grove Apts 250.284.6323 Inlet Haven B&B www.inlethaven.com

250.284.6323

Port Alice RV Park & Campground 250.284.3422 The Sandy Pines Vacation Rental

www.wix.com/mherli/port-alice

250.284.6323

P.A.M. B&B

Quatsino Chalet Hotel 250.284.3338

250.284.3379

Westgate B&B

www.portaliceb-b.com

bobdeb@cablerocket.com

250.284.3558 Food & Beverage Services • • • • • •

J&K’s Takeaway Ocean View Restaurant Port Alice Golf Club (summer only) Quatsino Chalet Restaurant & Lounge Royal Canadian Legion Victorian Steak House

Charters Castaway Marine Charters www.castawaymarine.ca 250-284-3572 or 250-209-2599 Rumble Beach Fishing Charters www.rumblebeachfishingcharters.com 250-284-6204 or 250-209-2779 P.A.M. Fishing Charters www.portaliceb-b.com 250-284-3379

Communities

Port Hardy www.PortHardy.travel Visitor Centre 250-949-7622

7070 Market Street Port Hardy

250-949-7155 Open 7 days a week to serve you

Your one stop fishing store!

• Camping • Fishing • Housewares

• Hardware • & much much more!

38 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

5-Pin Bowling

Come in and enjoy a day or evening bowling Monday - Wednesday. . . . . . . . . . Closed Sunday . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Closed Thursday . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-9pm Cosmic Bowling Schedule Friday . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-10pm Saturday . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-10pm No fish biting? Do you have a larger group? Need something to do?

If so call & set up a private time… we’ll be glad to accommodate you.

7210 Market Street Port Hardy

250-949-6307

communities | port hardy

V

ancouver Island North’s largest centre (population: 4,000) offers a friendly, downhome version of life marked by creature comforts (restaurants, shopping, oceanside parks), plenty of accommodations, a developing ecotourism industry and easy access to the wild splendor that surrounds the town on all sides.

BC Ferries’ famous 15-hour “Inside Passage” day cruises to Prince Rupert on the mainland arrive and depart from nearby Bear Cove, as do summer-only sailings on the “Discovery Coast” route. Port Hardy is also the main departure point for water taxis and land shuttles destined for the North Coast Trail.

“Live the Adventure” is Port Hardy’s motto, and many ferry passengers wisely book rooms and explore for a few days before or after their sailings. Land based adventurers discover hiking, caving and wildlife such as black bears and bald eagles. Wildlife-watching daytrips also depart from a bustling town marina packed with fishing vessels and visiting pleasure craft. Orcas, humpbacks and dolphins are lurking just offshore in the Johnstone Strait while longer treks head to grizzly bear country on the mainland central coast. Also nearby is big-wave surfing at Raft Cove, world-class scuba diving at God’s Pocket Provincial Marine Park, and freshwater fishing in local lakes and river systems. Coal Harbour, just 20 minutes away by car, provides boaters and kayakers with easy access to the west coast via Quatsino Sound.

Another supremely pleasurable option is to simply hang out in Port Hardy and enjoy the myriad pleasures found within town limits. Picnic with the family at Storey’s Beach. Shop on Market Street for locally produced arts, crafts, chocolate and fresh seafood (the town is famous for its smoked and candied salmon). Snap pictures of the chainsaw carvings at Carrot Park. Thrill to stock car and motocross races in the summer. Step back into the past at the Port Hardy Museum and Archives. Or take a pleasant stroll from the marina to the new Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre, an interpretive exhibition space and hatchery rolled into one modern facility.

Totem poles dotted throughout Port Hardy are a tribute to the First Nations’ who have lived off the resources of land and sea here for over 8,000 years. Today’s Kwakiutl First Nation reside in Fort Rupert, a few minutes south of town with its colourful totems, cemetery and the last crumbling remains of a Hudson’s Bay Company trading post. Internationally renowned carvers demonstrate their skills, crack jokes and share stories at the Copper Maker Gallery, a must-visit for art collectors.

The friendly staff at the Visitor Centre, open year-round in the heart of town, are happy to assist with information on local attractions and activities. Make your choice from a diverse slate of accommodations that include hotels, B&Bs, cabins, cottages, hostels and campgrounds.

Instant Money Transfers Phone Cards Cheque Cashing Pre-paid Mastercards Fresh Seafood & European Specialties Fully Licensed

#1-7025 Market St, Port Hardy

Open Wed-Sun: 5pm-9pm • Closed Mon & Tues

Fax: 250-949-8029

250-949-9002

250-902-0366

8405 Byng Road Port Hardy (across from the fish hatchery)

License #50218

No Credit Check Open 7 days per week Mon-Fri: 9am-8pm Sat: 9am-5pm • Sun: 11am-4pm

Boomer Jerritt photo

www.northislandgazette.com | 39

! n i p a e L

to Salmon’s World

Come visit the Salmon Centre!

Explore our unique habitat displays E and get up close and personal with a ssalmon. See salmon predators and prey and find out who’s eating who in p tthe ecosystem.

A visit to the Salmon Centre is a fun and educational experience for all a ages. a Find out what the staff at the Salmon F Centre are doing to help maintain C healthy salmon stocks. h

The Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre is operated by the Northern Vancouver Island Salmon Enhancement Association.

All proceeds support Salmon Enhancement activities on Northern Vancouver Island.

uatse Salmon Stewardship Centre Next to the Quatse River Campground, just minutes from the airport, ferry or downtown.

8400 Byng Road, Port Hardy Call 250-902-0336 or 250-949-9022 Open May through September, Wednesday to Sunday 10 am to 5 pm

40 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

QUATSE RIVER

Regional Park & Campground Port Hardy, BC

The campground is situated within a T rrichly forested regional park containing trees hundreds of years old, with the wild flora and fauna found in old growth forests.

All campsites are conveniently located close to firewood, washrooms, and a resident manager.

The Quatse River Campground is operated by the Northern Vancouver Island Salmon Enhancement Association. Proceeds generated in the campground support Salmon Enhancement activities on Northern Vancouver Island.

• • • • • • • • • • •

62 tenting or RV sites power (30 amp) and water hookups sani-dump free hot showers coin laundry firewood “by donation” hiking and fishing trails wheelchair accessible leashed pets welcome WIFI Internet reservations recommended

Your Yo hosts: Ray and Dianne Volk For Fo more information and reservations: Tel: 250-949-2395 Toll Free: 1-866-949-2395 Email: quatse@island.net We are located at 8400 Byng Road, Port Hardy, BC V0N 2P0, next to the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre. www.quatsecampground.com Come as guests…Leave as friends!

communities | port hardy

250-949-6484 www.scotiabayresort.com

Boomer Jerritt photo

NORTH SHORE INN ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Panoramic ocean view from the rooms.

Ferry shuttle available through North Island Transportation.

Limited number of pet-friendly rooms available.

Senior/corporate discount rates available off the peak season.

Wireless Internet in the building.

Some triple rooms available.

All rooms are accessible by stairs only.

Toudai Sushi

Menu Choices www.northshoreinnph.com email: northshoreinn.ph@gmail.com 250-949-8500 ~ 1-877-949-8516 7370 Market Street, Port Hardy

~ Tempura ~ Rolls ~ Donburi

~ Teriyaki ~ Maki ~ Nigiri

~ Sashimi ~ Bento

at the North Shore Inn 250-949-8755 www.northislandgazette.com | 41

COME TO PORT HARDY‌

LIVE THE ADVENTURE

Port Hardy & District Chamber of Commerce Tel: 1-866-427-3901 250-949-7622 www.ph-chamber.bc.ca

Tourism Port Hardy www.porthardy.travel

42 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

www.northislandgazette.com | 43

North Coast Trail Backpackers Hostel ers Welco

pack

Back

me to P

ort Ha

8635

North Coast Trail Shuttle

One stop land and water transport

May 15th to Sept. 15th

rdy

Granv

ille St

Your Hosts: Anne & Rob • Open Year Round • Free Ferry Pickup • Private & Dorm Rooms • Groups & Tours Welcome • Secure Storage: Bikes, Kayaks &

Motorbikes Free Parking Drying area Lockers Games Room: TV & WiFi (free) • Free Morning Coffee & Toast • • • •

• Kitchen & Laundry • Trail Guides • Kayaking, Bears & Eagles • Fishing & Diving • Sunset Harbour Tours • Barbeques

For Reservations call 1-866-448-6303 or 250-949-9441

porthardyhostel@gmail.com • www.northcoasthostel.com

Box 580 Port Hardy, BC V0N 2P0

1-800-246-0093 250-949-6541

www.northcoasttrailshuttle.com info@capescottwatertaxi.ca

The Hotel with Heart Centrally located in downtown Port Hardy Fireside Grill Restaurant Free wireless high speed Internet in rooms Microwave, fridge, coffeemaker & cable TV Complimentary Continental breakfast Free extended & oversize vehicle parking Pet friendly Banquet & meeting rooms

Book your adventure with us: Fishing Charters Land & Sea Tours Hiking Whale Watching Bike Rental Kayaking

For reservations call 250-949-8899 or email info@providenceplace.ca 44 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Wildwoodscampsite IIn th the rainforest i f t off the th North N th Island Il d

❖ ❖ Steve L. Fines photo

full facilities small boat wharf

ated

da

ne y ow

il

fam

❖

pets allowed

❖

showers & more!

per nd o

250.949.6753 250.949.7454

www.wildwoodscampsite.com pjranger@telus.net

Located on Bear Cove Road • Box 801, Port Hardy, BC

Marine Electronics & Supplies

Serving the

North Island

Sales & Service

Certified inboard/outboard mechanic For all your real estate needs… call Merrilee

Merrilee Tognela

“I’ll travel the island for you” www.merrileetognela.com www.coastrealty.com mtognela@coastrealty.com

Stryker Electronics Ltd.

1-800-779-4966 4200 Island Highway North, Nanaimo, BC V9T 1W6 Office Phone: 250-758-7653 Cell: 250-230-5220

6710 Hardy Bay Rd, Port Hardy ph: 250-949-8022 • fax: 250-949-8077 1-888-839-8022 stryker@cablerocket.com

www.northislandgazette.com | 45

Seven Hills Golf Country Club

A scenic 9 hole course nested in the North Island forest and rated as one of BC’s best 9 hole courses.

Jessie’s B&B & Gallery Jessie Roland

• Par 35 rating licensed) 68.7/slope 128 • Driving range • Pro Shop • Club rentals • Restaurant (fully • RV sites - full Take Port Alice Hwy turnoff, only 2 minutes away.

hook-up hoo • Power cart rentals, club rentals

Best rates on the North Island Artist Gardener Nature Lover Come paint & visit the North Island

250-949-9818

North Island

Transportation Services Ltd 250-949-6300

Shuttle Service Port Hardy to & from BC Ferries Bear Cove Terminal Port Hardy to & from Port Hardy Airport

Local freight & passenger transportation is our specialty

5710 Hardy Bay Rd Box 11, Port Hardy V0N 2P0

250-949-8953

Box 1074, Port Hardy, BC V0N2P0 Email: nit6300@telus.net

6555 Hardy Bay Rd., Port Hardy, BC • 1.877.902.0459 • www.quarterdeckresort.net 46 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Locally owned and operated

Two locations to serve you better!

1584 Broughton Blvd, Port McNeill 250-956-3126

Unlike Anywhere You’ve Ever Stayed… ~ Captivating Ocean Views ~ ~ Jacuzzi Baths ~ Free Wireless Internet ~ ~ Fireplaces ~ Satellite TV ~ ~ Kitchenettes ~

We specialize in Salt Water Fishing Adventures

Luxurious, modern cabins high over Hardy Bay.

Thunderbird Mall, Port Hardy 250-949-9522 REWARD YOURSELF!

—Sunset Magazine

Earn Free Rewards on almost everything you buy including prescriptions.

Look for our exciting new features coming in 2011!

Apply for your free card today!

1-877-949-7939

www.bearcovecottages.ca ~ info@bearcovecottages.ca

In the heart of Port Hardy lies the Thunderbird Mall, with specialized shops and services to serve you.

The only enclosed mall north of Campbell River.

Spectacular ocean view rooms with modern facilities, executive, family & honeymoon suites

250.949.7115

8950 Granville St. PO Box 1980, Port Hardy, BC V0N 2P0

1.877.949.7115 (US & Canada) • Fax: 250.949.7415 6435 Hardy Bay Road, Box 103 Port Hardy, V0N 2P0 www.glenlyoninn.com • info@glenlyoninn.com

Administration Office Phone: (250) 949-8623 Fax: (250) 949-6885 frostbrd@telus.net www.tbirdmall.com

…people helping people

Centre of It All

Glen Lyon Inn & Suites www.northislandgazette.com | 47

communities

Port McNeill Gateway to the Broughton Archipelago www.PortMcNeill.net Visitor Centre 250-956-3131

Windsor Plywood • doors • hardwood flooring • mouldings • stains and finishes • hardware • cabinetwoods • lumber • plywood • laminate floors • adhesives • craft and hobby supplies • spindles • expert advice • and so much more!

Your Neighbourhood Grocer President’s Choice

PORT MCNEILL 1528 BROUGHTON BLVD www.windsorplywood.com

W

Mon - Fri: 7:30am - 5:00pm Sat: 8:30am - 5:00pm • Closed Sunday

in

d

Ph: 250-956-3367

dso

r P lyw

oo

We deliver!

250-956-2881 #2-311 Hemlock St. Port McNeill

JustArt Gallery

#18-1705 Campbell Way, Port McNeill 250-956-4908 - info@justart.ca - www.justart.ca

48 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Weekly Flyer Instore

You will enjoy the relaxing ambiance of our dining room, fresh premium seafood. Our adjoining family restaurant has a great children’s menu and the best fish & chips on the North Island…all at affordable prices.

Reservations are suggested.

Take-out and delivery available www.pmhotels.com

located in the Haida-Way Hotel Port McNeill, BC

250-956-3263

communities | port McNeill

T

he North Island’s second largest centre, Port McNeill is an ecotourism capital two hours north of Campbell River and four hours drive from BC Ferries terminals in Nanaimo. That’s not far given that the town provides direct access to the pristine channels, mazy waterways and sheltered moorages of the Broughton Archipelago Provincial Marine Park. This postcard collection of dozens of small, undeveloped islands at the mouth of the Knight Inlet is renowned world-wide for whale watching, sea kayaking and scuba diving. Each of these pastimes is expertly served by a full array of guides, suppliers and rental operations.

Many visitors settle in before and after their maritime outings by booking local accommodations and exploring this friendly seaside town. Dine on fresh-caught fish with a heaping side order of chips. Learn about the area’s ancient and contemporary history at the Port McNeill Heritage Museum. Walk the Schoolhouse Creek trail or play a round or two with an ocean view at the par 3 golf course. Take photos of friends and loved ones dwarfed by the world’s largest Sitka Spruce burl. (A burl is the odd outgrowth of wood that grows from the trunks of big trees).

One favorite destination is the seawall and newly expanded harbour area. Drink in the ocean views here while checking out a busy waterfront dotted with pleasure craft, fishing boats and float planes. Hikers and cyclists often leave their cars in Port McNeill and take BC Ferries sailings to nearby Alert Bay and Sointula, both wonderful daytrip destinations with plenty of heritage, history and natural splendor. Another option: A hiking, fishing or sightseeing adventure via helicopter to the region’s remote and wild backcountry.

The leading attraction for visitors, of course, is the off-shore wildlife. Several hundred resident Orcas (killer whales) play, feed, and rub their bellies on pebbled beaches. Migratory humpback whales pass through in the spring and fall. Dolphins, porpoises, Steller sea lions and a who’s who of seabirds are also favorite camera subjects. Local guides offer everything from daytrips to week-long adventures. There’s also a host of fishing charter operations here plying the calm waters for chinook, sockeye and pink salmon.

Boomer Jerritt photo

www.northislandgazette.com | 49

Gateway to the Broughton Archipelago

Abundant Wildlife Ocean Vistas Majestic Mountains

Whale Watching Kayaking World Class Fishing

Port McNeill Visitor Centre

Port McNeill Museum

1-888-956-3131 1594 Beach Drive, Box 129 Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0 email: pmccc@island.net www.portmcneill.net

250-956-9898 351 Shelley Crescent Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0

50 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Black Bear Resort & Spa

A

Pool ~ Sauna ~ Hottub dults only fitness centre

~ Pedicures ~ Manicures ~ Waxing ~ Body Treatment ~ Facials ~ Massage 1-866-956-4900 www.blackbearresort.net

Complete Shopping Port McNeill Groceries • Produce • Meat Dairy • Deli • Bakery Huge Selection • Friendly Staff Open daily 8 am - 9 pm

250-956-4404 www.northislandgazette.com | 51

Cedar Park

Resort & Golfing RV Sites • Cottages • Golfing Dan Hillert photo

Restaurant • Cold Beer & Wine • Pub • Reservations & Information Greyhound Service • Fitness Centre • Toll Free: 1-877-956-3304 Taxi • Ph. 250-956-3304 • Fax 250-956-4531

www.dalewoodinn.com • stay@dalewoodinn.com Cedar Park is a privately owned resort, overlooking historical Haddington Island.

We have clean, modern, well equipped cottages, with full kitchens.

The RV sites are spacious grassy areas with full hook up.

All our accommodations have wireless Internet service.

9 Hole Par 3 Golfing, and also Frisbee Disc Golfing.

The golf course features a park like setting, with a panoramic view of the coastal range.

Haida-Way Motor Inn Central Location, Close to Marina & Downtown Café, Dining Room, Pub Cold Beer & Wine Store on Site Free Wireless Internet Access Microwave, Fridge, Coffeemaker in Each Room Complementary Breakfast included in Regular Room Rate

For further information or reservations please contact:

Ph: 250-902-9346 Fx: 250-956-2222 Box 608 Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0

Cedar Park

Email: info@cedarparkresort-rv.com www.cedarparkresort-rv.com

52 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Only 30 minutes from Port Hardy and the Prince Rupert Ferry & 20 minutes from Telegraph Cove

1-800-956-3373 • 250-956-3373 1817 Campbell Way, Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0

www.pmhotels.com

ACTIVITIES

Recreation Sites B

C’s Forest Service maintains several campgrounds, and most can only be accessed via logging roads. While rustic and with minimal facilities, these campgrounds are perfect for those wanting to linger in the wild heart of nature.

Check at local bookstores and gas stations for a copy of one of several highly recommended back-trail guidebooks available locally.

Sayward

Elk Creek Forest Recreation Site........................ 250.282.0018 ...............................(3 km north of Campbell River, along Hwy 19) Fisherboy Trailer Park........................................... 250.282.3204 ............................................................................ 1546 Sayward Road Village Centre Campground................................ 250.282.5512 ........................................................................... Info at Village Office White River Court............................ On the Old Island Highway

Woss/ Nimpkish

Bonanza Lake....................................... www.SitesAndTrailsBC.ca From Port McNeill, travel 46 km southeast on Hwy 19. Turn left across from the Zeballos turnoff.

Nimpkish Lake Provincial Park................................................. ..................................................... www.BritishColumbia.com/Parks Located at south end of Nimpkish Lake; reached by boat or by road via Hwy 19 south of Port McNeill. ................ http://www.britishcolumbia.com/ParksAndTrails/Parks/ details/?ID=357 Vernon Lake......................... 25 km SE of Woss, via logging road

Cape Scott

Cape Scott Provincial Park ............................................www.BritishColumbia.com/trails/?id=4 Raft Cove Provincial Park ..........................www.VancouverIsland.com/ParksAndTrails/Parks ..............................................................................................................

San Josef Heritage Park................................ www.BCParks.com ...................................................................................... 250-286-9422

Zeballos & Zeballos Road

Anutz Lake........On River Main Rd, off the main road to Zeballos Atluck Lake..... Access via Atluck Rd, off the main road to Zeballos Cevallos Campsite............. www.zeballos.com • 250.761.4229 Fair Harbour Campsite.35km NW of Zeballos, via logging road Resolution Campsite A . t Rhodes Creek 5km from Zeballos, on .............................................................................. Fair Harbour Road Swan Song.....................www.FairHarbour.com • In Fair Harbour Zeballos RV Park................ www.zeballos.com • 250.761.4694

Telegraph Cove

Alder Bay Resort.....www.AlderBayResort.com • 888.956.4117 Telegraph Cove Resort.......... www.TelegraphCoveResort.com ........................................................................800.200.HOOK (4665) Telegraph Cove Marina & RV Park.......www.TelegraphCove.ca ....................................................................................... 877.835.2683

Port McNeill

Broughton Strait Campground.www.port-mcneill.travel.bc.ca ....................................................................................... 250.956.3224 Cedar Park Resort & Golfing............................... 250.902.9346 Cluxewe Resort.....................www.cluxewe.com • 250.949.0378

Port McNeill

O’Connor Lake...11km NW of Port McNeill, Keogh Rd to Benson Lake, then West Main Rd. Seven Hills Golf & RV Park................................... 250.949.9818

Alert Bay

Alert Bay Campground......... www.AlertBay.ca • 250.949.7015

Sointula Bere Point................................................................www.rdmw.bc.ca ....................................................................................... 250.956.3301 Harmony Shores Campground....................... www.Sointula.com/l ....................................................................................... 250.973.2333

Holberg

Georgie Lake...................... Use the secondary road 6.5km W of Port Hardy off the mail road to Holberg There are also campsites at Koprino, Nahwitti Lake, Rupert Arm, San Josef River, and Swan Lake.

Winter Harbour

Botel Park & Trail....... www.WinterHarbour.ca • 250.969.4333 Kwaksistah Campground... www.rdmw.bc.ca • 250.956.3301 Harbour Daze................ www.WinterHarbour.ca •250.969.4333

Port Alice

Alice Lake Beaver Lake Link River Prov. Park............. www.rdmw.bc.ca •250.956.3301 Mahatta River ........................ www.rdmw.bc.ca • 250.956.3301 Marble River Prov. Park................. www.DiscoverCamping.ca ....................................................................................... 800.689.9025 Port Alice RV & Campground.............................. 250.284.3422 ..............................................................................1201 Marine Drive Spruce Bay Victoria Lake

Port Hardy

Stryker Bay RV Park....888.839.8022 • stryker@cablerocket.com Quatse River............................... www.QuatseCampground.com ....................................................................................... 866.949.2395 Sunny Sanctuary . ............................www.island.net/~sunnycam ....................................................................................... 866.251.4556 Wildwoods.....................................www.wildwoodscampsite.com ...................................................................................... 250-949-6753

Cape Scott

Cape Scott Prov. Park..................................................................... ...................................... www.HelloBC.com/CapeScottHikingTrails Raft Cove Prov. Park....................................................................... .......................... www.VancouverIsland.com/ParksandTrails/Parks San Josef Heritage Park................................ www.BCParks.com ....................................................................................... 250.286.9422 .............www.env.gov.bc.ca/BCParks/Explore/parkpgs/cape.html

www.northislandgazette.com | 53

Sayward Junction

Gas & Convenience

• Propane • Gas • Diesel • Souvenirs

& much more at the Junction

250.282.3232

Open 7 days a week • 6 am - 10 pm CYPRESS COFFEE HUT & GALLERY

Come Golf one of Vancouver Island’s toughest 9 hole executive courses.

The course is open daily from 9am to 7pm weather permitting April to Oct. 31

14 for nine $ 25.50 for 18 $

Club House is open from 10am to 7pm where you can rent clubs and pull carts.

250-282-3649 www.golfsayward.ca

There are balls, tees, snacks, drinks, and gifts for sale.

Salmon River Inn Stay in the wilderness with the comfort of home

Close to H’Kusam Klimb, Kelsey Bay wharf & hiking trails

Re-opening May 1st, 2011 - September 30th • 10:00 am - 8:00 pm

Get your Expressos, lattes, cappuccinos, fruit smoothies.

We also have 16 different flavours of ice cream Glenn Greensides, world renown for his large wooden carvings, will be doing chainsaw carving here this year.

Cypress Tree Cold Beer & Wine Open 7 days a week

corner of Sayward turnoff & Island Highway COLD BEER AT LIQUOR STORE PRICES

Try some home cooked meals in our restaurant

Enjoy the friendly staff at the pub

Fisherboy Park motel • campground • store • liquor

• motel units • cabins with or without kitchens • pet friendly campground with RV sites • coin-operated hot showers & laundromat

Cypress Tree Inn located next door to Sayward Junction Gas & Convenience Store Home Cooking Free Internet access & Free long distance anywhere in North America available to customers

250.282.3648

fax: 250.282-3648 www.cypresstreeinnpub.com cypresstreeinn@saywardvalley.net

Open 7 days a week Summer (May 1) 7 am - 9 pm Winter (Sept 15) 7 am - 8 pm

54 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Located in Sayward, BC 250-282-3303 250-282-3337 info@salmonriverinn.ca www.salmonriverinn.ca

Open Year Round Wir sprechen Deutsch

Largest private chainsaw carving collection on the island

Just a walk from the golf course 1546 Sayward Road, Sayward, BC 250-282-3204 • 1-866-357-0598 fisherboypark@telus.net

communities | sayward

communities

Sayward www.Sayward.ca Visitor Centre 250-282-0018

A

n hour’s smooth highway drive north of Campbell River, Sayward is the first point of entry to Vancouver Island North. This quaint and rustic village is nestled into the forested edge of peaceful Johnstone Strait. Buy provisions here, enjoy a home-cooked meal and get oriented by checking in during the summer at the Visitor Information Centre on the wharf for maps, accommodation information and friendly advice on how best to enjoy the area’s natural pleasures – hiking, fishing, canoeing, camping (by the village pond or right on the ocean), wildlife watching and marine outings included.

Backpackers and casual hikers have alternatives aplenty thanks to a trail network that follows ancient First Nations trade routes in criss-crossing the mountains. The Dalrymple Forest Interpretive Trail offers a gentle self-guided stroll through a shaded glade. Or test stamina and strength on the daunting Kusam Klimb, a day-long round-trip ascent and return; awe-inspiring valley views and lush alpine picnic spots reward those who reach the mile-high summit. Lovely White River Provincial Park was saved for posterity in the 1970s when three local loggers refused to cut down its remarkable stand of giant trees.

Sayward is wilderness country, no question, yet it has also been tamed in beautiful fashion. Nature buffs, couples and family groups wander acres of woodland trails at Victorian Garden Gate Manor. Wildlife enthusiasts eager for sightings of trumpeter swans, herons, bald eagles and more head for the estuary at the Salmon River Wildlife Reserve. Local guides can be hired for both fishing expeditions and wildlife viewing.

The village’s wharfs are especially busy in mid-August during the annual “Tour de Rock” Fishing Derby (a fundraiser for Cops for Cancer). Shop at the weekend summer market for local crafts and fresh produce. Spend the August holiday weekend cheering on teams from across the island at the “Oscar Daze” baseball tournament. And visit the Heritage Park to sit in the shade of the mighty Coronation Oak, planted to celebrate the 1936 coronation of England’s King George VI. Boomer Jerritt photo

www.northislandgazette.com | 55

communities

Sointula A Place of Harmony www.Sointulainfo.ca Visitor Centre 250-973-2001

56 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

communities | sointula

S

ointula means “place of harmony’’ in Finnish. This charming seaside town on sprawling Malcolm Island was established in the late 19th century when a colony of Scandinavian settlers arrived with utopian dreams. While their ambitious plans were derailed within a decade, there’s no question these visionaries chose the right place for a fresh air and salt water paradise on earth.

Most visitors today arrive via a 25-minute BC Ferries sailing from Port McNeill. Many park their cars and either travel as pedestrians or bring their bicycles to linger in the village of Sointula itself. But the island invites exploration, and a car is helpful when exploring popular destinations like Bere Point, Mitchell Bay or the Pulteney Point Lighthouse. Boaters utilize the good moorage in the Malcolm Island Lions Harbour.

H

ikers rack up the mileage on the Mateoja Heritage Trail, meandering back in time to an early 1900’s homestead. Bere Point Regional Park is the island’s only public campground. It’s the starting point for the Beautiful Bay Trail, which winds along a rocky ridge that offers breathtaking ocean glimpses. Some hikers are lucky enough to witness killer whales rubbing on the pebble beaches below the viewing platform at the start of the trail.

Visit the local museum to learn about the island’s unique history.

Visit BC’s longest running cooperative store, formed as the Sointula Co-operative Store Association in 1909. Many artists and musicians call Malcolm Island home, and their work can be enjoyed while browsing through shops, galleries and studios.

The Sointula Resource Centre Society’s visitor information staff can point the way to the island’s B&B establishments and other accommodation options.

CUSTOM PROCESSING at

Sointula’s Smokehouse

Dan Hillert photo

Sea 4 Miles Cottages Where you relax with nature

dockside service . fillet and hard freeze hot smoke . mild cure . jerky 450 - 2nd Street Sointula, Malcolm Island

Hom

e of

250-973-6459

RETAIL AND WHOLESALE

Sointula’s

WILD SEA SMOKES

Oceanside retreat • cozy one or two bedrooms • kitchen equipped like home • satellite tv, playground & more • daily & weekly rates year round

Sointula, Malcolm Island 250-973-6486

www.sointulacottages.com www.northislandgazette.com | 57

TELEGRAPH

COVE Resort

a truly unique EXPERIENCE

120 site wooded R.V. Park and campsite.

Campfires permitted and firewood available. Potluck dinners every Sunday.

Wastell Manor, 5 room Antique Hotel.

20 fully contained cabins and houses for rent. Many have woodstoves.

140 berth marina and launch ramp.

Marine gas, general stores, shops, wirelesss Internet available.

Killer Whale Cafe, Old Saltery Pub & The Coffee The Cove Cove Coffee Company Co Salmon Salmon Barbeques on Wednesday & Saturday Wedne evenings evenin at restaurant.

Great Gre Sportfishing Area Fishing Charters for Fish Salmon & Halibut Sa available.

Ph: (250) 928-3131 Fx: (250) 928-3105

tcrltd@island.net www.telegraphcoveresorts.com 58 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

1-800-200-HOOK

ACTIVITIES | FISHING

communities

Telegraph Cove On the Boardwalk

Boomer Jerritt photo

W

ildlife enthusiasts eager for close encounters with orcas, minkes, humpback whales and grizzly bears sail forth on guided tours from this historic waterfront village, established in 1912 as a one-man communications centre and later home to a salmon saltery and Canadian Air Force base.

Today Telegraph Cove is a leading tourism destination with its restored boardwalk, resort hotel, campgrounds, museum and two marinas where pleasure boats find a warm welcome. It’s the perfect departure point when tracking wildlife in the Johnstone Strait and, beyond it, the entire Broughton Archipelago. Learn about the region’s animal and sea life at the fascinating Telegraph Cove Whale Interpretive Centre.

Whale watching season runs from May to October, and a comfortable, modern fleet of boats set out daily in pursuit of resident and migratory orcas, humpbacks, dolphins and sea lions. Grizzly bear safaris by boat head for Knight Inlet and the Great Bear Rainforest in the foothills of the mainland Coastal Mountain range.

Telegraph Cove RV Park // Dockside 29 suites // Telegraph Cove Marina Your Telegraph Cove destinations for Over-the-water lodging, Ocean and cove view RV park, and first class marina for boats up to 65 feet long, all tide boat ramp, 15/30/50 amp power. Fishing, whale watching, grizzly bear tours, hiking, kayaking, whale museum, ample secure parking... all can be found at Telegraph Cove.

All part of a master planned community featuring build-ready strata oceanfront homesites at Telegraph Point.

Telegraph Cove RV Park

Dockside 29 suites feature full kitchens, views of historic Telegraph Cove from every unit, satellite TV, overlooks newly rebuilt Telegraph Cove Marina.

Select D29 units available for purchase.

<----Telegraph Cove Marina Dockside 29 Office Dockside 29

GPS: N 50° 32.956' W 126° 49.742’

www.telegraphcove.ca

WIFI at all our properties.

1642B Telegraph Cove Road-Box 1-8, Telegraph Cove, BC, Canada V0N 3J0 1-877-TEL-COVE | (250) 928-3163 | Fax: (250) 928-3162 | reservations@telegraphcove.ca www.northislandgazette.com | 59

activities

Travelling

BC Road Report 800-550-4997

A

ll roads on the North Island lead to Hwy 19. Routes into communities like Sayward, Port Alice and Coal Harbour are modern, paved thoroughfares. Other wilderness retreats and camping areas are only accessible via gravel logging roads. Visibility along these often very dusty roads can be restricted, so extreme caution is recommended. Remember: Logging trucks always have the right of way!

Ferries and water taxis are vital transportation links. Sointula and Alert Bay are a short ferry ride from Port McNeill. Port Hardy’s Bear Cove terminal is the gateway for sailings to Prince Rupert and the Central Coast. Contact www.BCFerries. com, or phone 888.223.3779.

When travelling by water, Channel 16 is reserved for emergency communications only. Weather information is available by calling 250.949.7148, or by tuning into Channels 21B or Wx 1, 2, or 3 on your VHF radio.

Port Hardy airport has scheduled service to Vancouver and beyond. Charter companies in Port McNeill, Alert Bay and Port Hardy offer scenic flights and service to smaller communities. Seaplanes and helicopters offer flightseeing trips while also dropping off passengers at wilderness fishing lodges.

Daily scheduled bus service connects the North Island with the rest of civilization. Terminals are in Port McNeill (250.956.3556) and Port Hardy (250.949.7532). Local buses link North Island communities and are wheelchair accessible. For scheduling and fare information, contact Mount Waddington Transit (250.956.3151).

COACHLINE LTD.

Routes serving the North Island • Port McNeill • Port Hardy • Fort Rupert • Quatsino/Coal Harbour Fares: Zone 1: local routes in Port Hardy & Port McNeill - $1.25 or sheets of 10-$10 Zone 2: Port Hardy to Coal Harbour or Port Hardy to Fort Rupert - $2.50 or sheets of 10-$20 Zone 3: Port Hardy to Port McNeill or Port McNeill to Woss $3.75 or sheets of 10-$30 Hours of operation are: Monday-Friday: 9am-12pm & 1pm-5pm Closed weekends & holidays

Buses do not operate on statutory holidays

• Airport/Ferry Terminal Transfers • Sporting Events/Team Travel • Senior, Church, School, Group Functions

250-902-9411

“Charter in Comfort” 44 seats 4 DVD monitors Washroom Serving North Island Communities

S i V I l d N th inkahoots@cablerocket.com

For more information for schedules & routes, please refer to the BC Transit website:

North Coast Trail Shuttle Cape Scott Water Taxi

www.bctransit.com

Port Hardy to the Cape Scott North Coast Trail

Saturday Service from Mall to Mall

or the Regional District of Mt Waddington website:

www.rdmw.bc.ca Ticket Outlets: Port McNeill: Mount Waddington Transit office, Regional District of Mt Waddington office & Peoples Drug Mart Port Hardy: Peoples Drug Mart & Rexall Drug Store; Coal Harbour: Quatsino Band Council office *Monthly passes are also available * Transit Pass Credit: The gov’t of Canada offers a nonrefundable tax credit on the the cost of monthly passes. Save your monthly pass and receipts as proof of purchase.

Web site is www.transitpass.ca.

Mt. Waddington Transit Office 1705-5A Campbell Way Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0 Ph: 250-956-3151 Fax: 250-956-4214 mwts@telus.net

60 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

One stop land & water transportation Ph: 250-949-6541 Cells: 250-902-8208 • 250-902-8202 www.northcoasttrailshuttle.com

Boomer Jerritt photo

ACTIVITIES | FISHING

communities

Woss & Nimpkish Valley

W

oss is the gateway to this still largely unspoiled land of thick forests, whitewater rivers, clear lakes and craggy mountain ridges. Find it just off Highway 19 some 130 km north of Campbell River.

Logging has been a mainstay occupation here since European settlers first arrived. In fact, Woss is the site of the only operational railroad logging enterprise in Canada. Steam Locomotive 113, built in 1920 for rail logging, is a historic treasure that honours the community’s heritage.

Beyond the logging zones are emerald-green parks and backcountry wilderness. The Nimpkish Valley Ecological Reserve protects the oldest trees in the region. Schoen means “beautiful” in German, and it’s exactly the right word for Schoen Lake Provincial Park (open March to October).

Boaters launch from its gravel beaches. And climbers head for the heights via the trail network here and at Pinder Peak and Rugged Mountain.

North of Woss is Nimpkish Lake, a breezy favorite with windsurfers and kiteboarders. First-time spelunkers get a taste of the sport at Little Huson Regional Park’s “walk-in” limestone caves and unique land formations.

Powder blues aren’t an issue for North Island skiers. Open on weekends and select Mondays, Mount Cain is one of BC’s bestkept secrets: a funky, community-run, family-oriented resort virtually free of line-ups (since the crowds are reliably drawn to Mount Washington near Courtney). With room aplenty to carve sweeping ‘s’ patterns into the snow that’s piled up during the week, enthusiasts ride the t-bar lifts, inhale pure oxygen and test themselves on 18 runs and 457 metres of vertical drop.

Café-style meals, slope-side accommodations and affordable lift prices contribute to the relaxed vibes. Off-season, Mount Cain’s high alpine meadows attract hikers and wildlife watchers.

Boomer Jerritt photo

www.northislandgazette.com | 61

communities

Zeballos www.Zeballos.com

A

remote and peaceful outdoor adventure destination on the sheltered inland Pacific coastline of Vancouver Island North, Zeballos is an hour’s drive north of Woss and west of Highway 19. This picturesque seaside village can also be reached by backpackers and kayakers aboard the MV Uchuck III, a freight and passenger boat that winds its way here on Tuesday sailings from Gold River between June and September. Zeballos is a perfect jumping-off point for visits to spectacular Kyuquot Sound and the marine getaways at Catala and Nuchatlitz provincial parks. Hire maritime guides and their boats in town or bring your own transportation.

This was once gold-rush country. Between 1938 and 1942, a bustling town rose overnight as the fever peaked with the extraction of $13 million in claims. When the richest veins were tapped out, those who remained turned to forestry and fish processing, key industries to this day. Explore regional history at the family-friendly Zeballos Heritage Museum.

Sport fishing is a favorite way to get out on the water in pursuit of salmon, halibut, red snapper and rockfish. Troll in sheltered Zeballos Inlet. Cruise towards Esperanza Inlet and the wilder waters of the open Pacific. Or cast lines for cut-throat and rainbow trout in the Zeballos and Kaouk rivers. Scuba divers explore the rock walls at Tahsis Narrows, surfers head for Nootka Island, birdwatchers congregate in local estuaries and hikers follow the trail along the west coast of Nootka Island to Yuquot (where British explorer James Cook first met representatives from the Nuu-chah-nulth First Nation one fateful day in 1778).

After enjoying the relaxed pace of Zeballos, motorists can follow the gravel road to Fair Harbour, a great launching point for marine adventures. Gorgeous, beach-lined Rugged Point Marine Park is an easy day paddle from the shoreline.

Explore Our Gold Rush History THERE’S GOLD IN THEM HILLS!

Heritage buildings • Self guided walking tours • Heritage museum

OUTDOOR RECREATION PARADISE Sportfising • Kayaking • Walking trails • Birdwatching • Diving • Rock climbing

VISITOR SERVICES

Restaurants • Accommodations • Camping • RV sites • Boat launch • Store • Fuel

Call us: 250-761-4429 9am-5pm Mon-Fri www.zeballos.com 62 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Resort

more than a campground…an experience

The Kwakiutl First Nation invites you to a special place …where the Cluxewe River meets the sea

Cluxewe Cafe July & August 7 days a week 11:30am-8pm

• 12 cabins & 150 campsites, most with full hookups, many on the water • fully equipped beach front cottages • showers, laundry, playground, boat ramp • spectacular views & sunsets

Just off the Island Highway 9 kms north of Port McNeill

• • • •

sport fishing kayaking birds, wildlife & cruise ships marina, whale watching charters, golf course & shopping just minutes away

Box 245, Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0

Cell: (250) 949-0378

w w w. c l u x e w e . c o m • r e l a x @ c l u x e w e . c o m www.northislandgazette.com | 63

c

Port M Neill N o r t h e r n Va n c o u v e r I s l a n d

Sharing Good Times…Naturally!

Photo Courtesy of E. Hogstead

Photos Courtesy of A. Smith, G. Wickstrom, L. Webber, A. Bowers, T. Bird & O. Jorgenson

Hiking • Saltwater & Freshwater Fishing • Kayaking • Biking • Diving • Caving • Golf • Birding • Whale Watching • Grizzly Tours • Museums • Arts & Culture • Dining • Recreational Boating • Amateur Sport • RVing • Camping • Spa & Wellness • Nature Tours • Scenic Flights • Marinas & Charters • Gardens • Skiing • Hunting • Snowboarding • Cross Country Skiing • Photography

CONSUELA’S Relaxation & Well Being for Women Hot Stone Massage w/ Thai Stem & Paraffin

CANADA SEA KAYAK ADVENTURES

TIDE RIP GRIZZLY TOURS

Canada Sea Kayak Adventures/Sea Kayak Adventures Inc - Since 1993 • Baja • British Columbia

www.tiderip.com tiderip@island.net 250-928-3090 1-888-643-9319

• Johnstone Strait • God’s Pocket

1-800-616-1943

SUPERVALU 250-956-2881 Fax: 250-956-2882 Seven Days a Week #2-311 Hemlock

1-250-230-0150

www.seakayakadventures.com

Grizzly Bears of Knight Inlet

LEISURE SUIT CHARTERS

WEST COAST HELICOPTERS

NORTHERN LIGHTS RESTAURANT

• Salmon • Steelhead • Halibut

• Heli-Fishing • Heli-Skiing

Guided Fresh & Saltwater Fishing

• Heli-Hiking • Adventure Tours

250-902-9493

larry@leisuresuitcharters.com www.leisuresuitcharters.com

250-956-2244

www.westcoasthelicopters.com Port McNeill Airport

Our town holiday…you’re invited!

1817 Campbell Way Port McNeill 250-956-3263 “Fresh Local Seafood”

STUBBS ISLAND WHALE WATCHING www.stubbs-island.com stubbs@island.net 250-928-3185 Fax: 250-928-3102 1-800-665-3066

OCEAN ROSE COASTAL ADVENTURES

U’MISTA CULTURAL EXPERIENCES

• Guided Adventure Tours

www.umista.ca info@umista.ca 250-974-5403 1-800-690-8222 Aboriginal Cultural Tours

• Photography • Whale Watching

250-902-9015

www.orcaadventures.com

— Saturday, August 20, 2011 —

Celebrating our 50th year on the North Island!

Making it Better…Growing it Great!

Port McNeill & District Chamber of Commerce/Visitor Centre - 1594 Beach Drive • P.O. Box 129, Port McNeill, BC, V0N 2R0 Email: pmccc@island.net • www.portmcneill.net Toll Free: 1-888-956-3131