Magazines - Nelson Adventure Magazine 2019

ISSUE 02 2019

On (and off) the beaten path Mural festival returns

Teaching your toddler to ski

Your guide to camping and glamping

NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

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CENTREOFITALL CENTRE Life’s an Adventure...Start yours here in Castlegar!

Largest Airport in the West Kootenays • 3 Daily Flights to Vancouver & Daily to Calgary • Providing Connecting Flights to the World • Central location to the region with shuttle service to Trail, Nelson connecting to Cranbrook & Kelowna • Modern, full-service terminal with casino, restaurants & free wifi 2

Castlegar, BC 250-365-5151 / www.wkrairport.ca

NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

Nelson bridge. Chole Krolak Photo

Adventures in our own backyard pages 5-7

GOING GREEN - By Emily Kemp

Pages 8 -11

INTO THE WIND - By Valerie Rossi

Pages 12-15

NELSON TRAILS A BUILDING PASSION - by ClairE paradis

Local golf courses offer exceptional quality, exceptional views Sail Nelson offers “freeing” experience on Kootenay Lake

Cycling club members build - and maintain - a mountain-side labrynith of over 150 trails

Pages 16-19

HIDDEN PLACES - By Greg Nesteroff

Pages 20-22

KEEPIN’ IT LITTLE - By Eli Geddis

Pages 23-26

Pages 27-29

EVERYTHING YOU WANT. ALL RIGHT HERE.

Champion Lakes Field Study School of Environment & Geomatics

Six notable spots worth the effort to find How to ski with a toddler and love every crazy second of it

MURAL MAGIC - By Ali Keraiff

From whitewash to masterpiece: how the International Mural Festival is brightening up Nelson’s downtown

FROM GLAMPING TO CAMPING, - By Trisha Elliott

Many options - and degrees of comfort exist for experiencing the Kootenay outdoors

Publisher: Editor:

Eric Lawson

Graphic Designer:

Sandy Leonard

Katelyn Hurley

Advertising Sales:

Adam Mandseth Marc-Andre Hamelin

Dave Dykstra Lonnie Inglehart

Cover photo:

Acro Yoga on the shore of Sapphire Lakes, Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park.

Photo by Douglas Noblet/Wild Air Photography

Nelson Adventure Magazine is published annually by Black Press Media.

91 Baker St. Nelson BC V1L 4C8 250-352-1890

lifestyle meshes perfectly with life goals and success is achieved in an atmosphere that caters to individual needs. That place exists at Selkirk College.

Located in the magical mountain setting of the West Kootenay, Selkirk College has been making post-secondary dreams come true for more than 50 years. With a choice

Greg Nesteroff

publisher@nelsonstar.com

Imagine a learning environment where

This material, written or artistic, may not be reprinted or electronically reproduced in any way without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions and statements in articles, columns and advertising are not necessarily those of the publisher or staff of Black Press. It is agreed by any display advertiser requesting space that the owner’s responsibility, if any, for errors or omissions of any kind, is limited to the amount paid by the advertiser for that portion of the space as occupied by the incorrect item and there shall be no liability in any event greater than the amount paid for the advertisement.

of 60 nationally recognized programs in an unsurpassed learning environment, the pathway to a bright future is within reach.

Find out more at selkirk.ca

NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

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With over 350 designated herit age homes and downtown buildings, Nels on captures a classic authentic feel you will fall in love with.

Fine restauran ts, seasonal pa tios and first rat entertainment e plus an eclectic cultural scene.

Discover a rare blend of year round outdoor adventure, mixed with a vibrant arts, cultural, and heritage scene you will fall in love with. Explore historic Baker Street, and downtown Nelson and enjoy specialty shops, boutiques, fine restaurants, outdoor patios and first rate entertainment‌.a true adventure in itself!

Nelson is an authentic, funky and vibrant mountain playground, perfect for all ages.

Nelson and District Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Centre 91 Baker Street (Heritage CP Station) Nelson V1L 4G8 Ph: (250) 352-3433 Toll Free: 1-877-663-5706 Email: info@discoverNelson.com Web: www.discoverNelson.com 4

Nelson Adventure Magazine |2019

Going green Local golf courses offer exceptional quality, exceptional views

By Emily Kemp

Balfour Golf Course

G

olf can be extremely hard to master but equally satisfying when you do. For golfers, it’s not just the challenge they come for — the lifestyle is social, it’s equal play no matter your skill level and of course, the beautiful locations.

Nelsonites are spoiled for choice when it comes to quality, stunning golf courses in the local area.

We spoke to three and found out the inside story on each.

Scenic escape Balfour Golf Course, 602 Queens Bay Road, Balfour.

250-229-5655. golfbalfour.com This scenic course is well worth the half hour’s drive from Nelson. Designed by Les Furber, it’s a course surrounded by pure nature situated above the shores of Kootenay Lake with a mountain backdrop.

There’s plenty to entice you for a longer stay.

Enjoy gourmet eats at the course’s Osprey Mountain Grill, run by well-known Kootenay chef Annie Bailey, and relax at the nearby Kootenay Lake View Spa Resort. For those wanting an added adventure, a ten-minute drive north will find you soaking at Ainsworth Hot Springs and a bit further along is charming Kaslo.

Balfour is known for its interesting layout. As one reviewer commented online “As you meander through the trees on the front nine you get the sense that there is much more to come. And yes there is! The back nine is an amazing combination of elevation changes, stunning views and dramatic Par 3s.”

NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

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Kokanee Springs

The front and back nines were developed about ten years apart and head golf professional Craig Wilkinson says it’s like playing two different courses in one round. He notes the front nine is walkable and the back nine has a spectacular ending. “Our last three holes are very strong and visually stunning,” he says.

Overall the course is a challenge for those who want it, yet great for the average golfer. On arrival you’ll receive Wilkinson’s guidebook with strategy advice for each hole. You can also book him for a lesson and siphon some of his knowledge gained over 20 years of instructing. And whatever your level of golf addiction is, Balfour offers several great options to suit any golfing lifestyle.

Crown jewel of the Kootenays Kokanee Springs Golf Resort, 16082 Woolgar Road, Crawford Bay. 250-227-9226. kokaneesprings.com Escape the hustle and bustle with this Norman Woods-designed

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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

Kokanee Springs

masterpiece, just over an hour from Nelson. The drive includes a 35-minute time-out on the world’s longest free ferry to enjoy the mountain views.

The resort is known for its relaxed atmosphere and has been the course of choice for 51 seasons and counting. Its loyal customer base travels from far and wide, booking groups of 20 or so for multiples days of golf and relaxation with the resort’s wide range of amenities and activities. It’s a place that’s dear to the heart of many, with friends and families returning year after year.

The course is well-maintained with wide fairways and undulating greens and several elevated tees allow for stunning views, so have a camera handy. While golf operations manager Dan Warwaruk considers every hole a signature hole, his personal favourites are holes four to six. “Those are in a memorable and visually stunning part of the property,” he says. “You get fantastic views of Kokanee Glacier and Kootenay Lake.”Check out their website for a hole-by-hole guide.

Granite Pointe. Bryan Ralph photo

Local green Granite Pointe Golf Club, 1123 Richards Street West, Nelson. 250-352-5913. granitepointe.ca Nelson is lucky to have this one in its backyard. As a mountainside course, it presents a challenge for those who want it and you may use all the clubs in your bag. The greens and fairways are always in excellent shape with superb ongoing maintenance and don’t forget the power cart as you don’t get the views of this course without a little uphill.

“You can see all the way down the west arm of Kootenay Lake, the peaks out in Kokanee Glacier Park, and the Big Orange Bridge,” president Barry Auliffe says.

The front nine has a lot of undulation while the back nine is what they call the meadow nine. “It’s much flatter,” Auliffe says. “But there is no hole on Granite Pointe that’s boring or straight ahead. Every hole is extremely interesting. It is a very unique golf course.”

For the third year running, if you stay at any of the major hotels in Nelson you’ll get a free round of golf here, per room for each night’s room booking. To get the younger generation into the sport, the club this year has a membership package for 12 to 18-year-olds — access to the golf course and six lessons for $250.

After a great day, relax on the Wedge Restaurant’s patio for some of the best views in town.

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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

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Sail Nelson is a leader in boating education and we are located right here in the Kootenays!

No need to go to the Coast for your boating certifications. We offer Sail Canada courses that are recognized around the world. We offer a studentfirst approach and we are here to make sure you receive the best boating education and experience possible.

Our instructor Penny Caldwell has over 20 years of teaching experience and is eager to help you make your sailing and boating dreams come true. Be your own captain and sign up today at sailnelson.com!

BE YOUR OWN CAPTAIN

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www.sailnelson.com 8

Into the wind

Sail Nelson offers freeing experience on Kootenay Lake

Penny Caldwell’s Women and Wind graduate class for sailing techniques.

P

enny Caldwell grew up watching the tide come in from her grandparents’ cottage in Gaspé, Quebec, eagerly waiting for the water to be deep enough for sailing.

Navigating the bay and returning home before dark was a ritual trip she often took with her grandfather.

Those early years instilled a love for sailing that she now shares with her family and students as the owner and cruising instructor of Sail Nelson, a company that had humble beginnings in 2017.

The adult recreational boating school, recognized by BC Sailing and Sail Canada, offers courses and seminars out of Kokanee Marina on Kootenay Lake and provides a community learning environment for a passionate network of sailors.

Caldwell and her family relocated to Nelson from Ottawa in 2015, years after falling in love with BC during a previous stint coaching at the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club.

“I always dreamed of opening a sailing school, but I figured it would maybe be when I retired and as a hobby; when we moved to Nelson, I ended up fast-tracking it quite a bit,” says the 38-year-old.

Sailing remains her happy place, where the peacefulness of being on the water is pleasantly interrupted by the winds that guide the Spindrift, the Aloha 28 family sailboat

NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

By Valerie Rossi named after the spray that blows off the top of breaking waves.

“I’m from a sailing family and for as long as I can remember I’d get thrown into a boat to sail,” laughs Caldwell, fondly recalling the boat racing over the waves as cold water sprayed the deck whenever she set off on family adventures.

When given the opportunity to take over Spindrift from her nearly 80-year-old grandfather, sentimental reasons alone justified the long haul across the country; the addition of a solid teaching boat to add to her fleet further sweetened the deal.

“It’s a special boat for me because obviously, it was my grandparents’. Everyone in the family has sailed on it, and we’ve all done sleepovers and long-distance trips too,” she says.

Caldwell has 25 years of experience coaching with Sail Canada and has sailed all over the country, including the Great Lakes and the St. Lawrence River. She recently ventured across the Pacific Ocean, sailing from Hawaii to Victoria — a distance that is even further than the drive from Ottawa to Nelson.

Nowadays, adventurists of all levels join her on Kootenay Lake, one of the largest lakes in BC, with an average depth of nearly 150 feet. The ideal day is a sunny day with steady winds of 15-18 knots, nautically speaking.

A christening ceremony welcomes the Spindrift to Kootenay Lake.

“For me, it’s a very freeing experience, and it’s very relaxing,” she says. “It’s about going out and having fun and not leaving a huge footprint; it’s about enjoying Mother Nature, and we’ve got this huge lake, so why not?”

She admits however that the changing winds and unpredictable weather can sometimes anchor her boat. Learning to sail the Kootenay squalls is a challenge of its own and the reason there are so many great sailors in the region.

“Squalls generally happen when there’s humid air passing over cold water; we have ideal conditions for that here because it gets so hot during the summer and our lake is very cold,” she says. “It’s empowering and humbling when you realize who’s really in charge.”

Sail Nelson offers certified courses that are recognized around the world, as well as personalized training. Safety is a vital part of the knowledge imparted to students; courses always start with familiarizing students with

the boats, equipment and safety gear before discussion of docking and undocking kicks strategies and technique into motion.

In addition to introductory, basic and intermediate courses taught on 24-28 foot keelboats, Caldwell also provides a brush-up seminar, titled Mileage Builder, and a Women and Wind course, designed to inspire women to set sail by teaching techniques in all skill sets and giving them confidence to sail independently.

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A Women and Wind evening class.

A sail trim afternoon workshop.

Caldwell currently holds a basic cruising certification; however, she was previously an advanced cruising instructor at Harbour West (Hamilton) and the Ottawa Sailing School (adventure boating), spending most of her time in the Georgian Bay and a few years in the Thousand Islands out of Kingston.

Now that her lifestyle has given her the opportunity to return to her passion and found a sailing business, she’s currently working toward reinstating her advanced cruising certification. Her long-term goal is to become an instructor evaluator so she can certify more Kootenay instructors and devote her time to furthering the sailing

community at large.

Though Caldwell herself started taking lessons when she was about five, she says sailing can be taught at any point in life, and she’s dedicated to bringing her family tradition to a new community of sailors.

“I always enjoy the variety of students I get; I like meeting new people, helping them discover sailing and watching it all click for them,” she says.

If you see her on the water, give a wave. The friendly, down-to-earth woman can often be spotted clearing the dock of the busy boating marina before lifting the sail and heading out on her next adventure.

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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

HELLMAN

CANOES, KAYAKS, & SUP

SALES & RENTALS

A trip on Kootenay Lake

K

ootenay Lake offers pristine, uncrowded boating adventures. Since the main body maintains a relatively constant depth, boating and fishing go together; basically, you can fish where you boat. Let’s take a trip across the lake.

On the south arm, check out the Midge Creek, Drury area. There are good launching facilities at Kuskanook and Boswell, with boat fuel available at Bayshore Resort.

Further up the south arm check out Crawford Bay and Pilot Bay. The west arm tends to be quite busy during the summer months since the shallow water offers warmer temperatures. Launching is available at Balfour Beach Inn, and also at Kokanee Creek Park and Nelson. Boat fuel is available at Kokanee Creek Park Marine and Prestige Inn in Nelson.

The north arm at Woodbury offers a full-service marine dealership, Jones Boys Boats, for all your boating needs, including parts, sales, service, and rentals. Just north of there you’ll find Woodbury Resort, with a boat launch, moorage, marine fuel and a pub with off-sales.

Further north, Mirror Lake Campground has launching and moorage for their guests. Kaslo Bay Park offers a public boat launch with day parking on the south side, which makes for a short walk to downtown Kaslo.

Keep heading north and you’ll come across Campbell Bay, a well-protected area with warmer water temperature and beautiful sandy beaches. Schroeder Creek has fuel available, and launching is provided at Lost Ledge Provincial Campground.

Check out the many uncrowded beaches along the way and discover why Kootenay Lake is known as a hidden gem.

Happy boating!

— Lex Jones, owner of Jones Boys Boats (born and raised on Kootenay Lake)

(250) 825-9571 2645 HWY 3A, Nelson, BC www.hellmancanoes.com

NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

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Nelson trails a building passion

Cycling club members build and maintain - a mountain-side labrynith of over 150 trails

By Claire Paradis

N

elson is home to a network of over 150 biking trails available for all stages of riders and their biking evolutions. The skill level of riders who choose to live here is high, but trails can accommodate newbies as well as seasoned single-track seekers. Over time, many riders can try and discover different riding styles thanks to the terrain on offer in the Kootenays.

Nelson athlete Travis Hauck works full-time maintaining trails and loves what he does. Hauck has transitioned to Enduro riding, and is tackling long, gruelling endurance races both on bike and on foot. The elite

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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

The Badger mountain biking trail is above the Great Nor thern rail trail. Chris George photo

athlete also has teaching and coaching skills that he brings to Nelson during the summer with Kootenay Mountain Bike, an outfit based in Rossland.

He’s a big fan of the new trails, which are easier for people of all skill levels if they’re visiting. Hauck wants people to get out, be active, and see what they can do.

“You’ve got to push yourself to get out of your comfort zone. I like inspiring people by still doing what I do at my age [he’s 40] and with a family. It’s hard with work, but people have got to make time if they want to get the reward and benefit from that kind of exercise.”

Trail builder and rider Chris George has that they are made from. Most work watched the number of trails through takes place in the spring when literally the forest grow to where it is today. hundreds of trees that came down George, an all-around bicycle enthusiast during the winter must be cleared who raced downhill professionally for off the trails. years, remembers when there were only Trail builders and maintainers have a few trails in the area. Over the past agreements with private landowners three decades he’s seen and been part of to fix and maintain trails to a high the massive growth of trails that lattice standard, and rogue trail building in the mountains. Nelson’s unique peak- The Una Canuma some areas has threatened estabmoun n biking trail is in the to-valley riding is easy to access thanks Svoboda Road area. Picturtai lished trails. The club has had to ask ed is after clearing win dfall to the Nelson Mountain Bike Guide and last year. Chris George photo some trail rogues to stop their unthe Trailforks app. Best of all, the money sanctioned building in order to keep you shell out buying the book in a local bookshop helps fund trail agreements and stay on good terms with landowners. maintenance of the trails via the Nelson Cycling Club.

“It’s a tricky one here,” acknowledges George, who recognizes A longtime club member, George is one of the folks who the passion of the people doing it, but questions if their trails volunteer their labour to clean up and build trails. In his ex- were well-built enough. perience, most people are interested in what they consider There are also some projects that require machines, such as the glory of building new trails, even though it’s only part of one connecting to the Trans Canada Trail. A crew put in a few what’s needed to keep the living — and hence ever-over- kilometres this past summer, part of the push for beginner, growing — trails accessible. family-friendly and accessible trails in the area. There are plans A lot of people want to build trail, not fix trail, but the two for interpretive signage along many trails in the area as well, together are necessary to keep a path open for riders, he says. and the connection to the Trans Canada Trail has brought new Cycling club volunteers get trained how to build and maintain trail runners, families and riders to the area. “It’s opened the a proper trail, such as how to prune back growth to maintain door to everybody,” George agrees. sight lines as well as a passage through the bush. Many of For the veteran rider, trail building is a passion he feels the Nelson’s trails are hand-built, which means they’re narrower itch of even in the middle of winter. “It’s great to get to see and require regular maintenance in the ever-growing wilderness the results of your work.”

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N Travis Hauck and Kurt Sorge are known internationally for their mountain biking prowess, but call Nelson home

By Claire Paradis

Travis Hauck is a mainstay of the Nelson mountain biking scene, but he’s also well known on the international circuit. John Gibson photo

elson has an embarrassment of talent when it comes to mountain biking. Competing internationally, locals have brought home a hoard of awards and titles, but more importantly they’ve garnered formative experiences that have shaped who they are.

One thing that hasn’t changed is the desire to call Nelson home.

Travis Hauck grew up in the flatlands of Saskatoon, cutting his teeth on urban riding down city steps and was dedicated enough to spend his money on a bike instead of a car. It wasn’t until a road trip to Jasper that he learned about mountain biking in actual mountains. Nowadays, Hauck is focusing on Enduro and Ultramarathon training and races.

It’s the introspection and reflection that takes place while persevering through challenges such as the La Ruta de los Conquistadores in Costa Rica that are the true prize. Known as La Ruta, the race winds across the country via coffee plantations, volcanoes and villages, all with an elevation gain of 40,000 feet.

Hauck came third in his age category in 2013, and continues to compete internationally.

“The coolest thing about participating in an event is discovering something about yourself,” said Hauck. “In an Enduro you try to go faster against the clock, and experience a smoother ride.

Maybe by third hour, you feel like a part of your bike and have found a new level of skill or comfort on the bike. You can lose your fear, and your senses are heightened. It’s also a fun way to meet people and learn about another area. It makes for a pretty cool day.”

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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

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Kurt Sorge has lived in Nelson since he was two, and although he has travelled all over the world with his bike skills, he still loves to call Nelson home. “When I was younger, I kept my eyes and ears open for places to move to,” says Sorge, “but in the end Nelson is home.” The internationally award-winning pro still enjoys riding with friends he grew up with, many of whom have opted to stay in the bosom of the Kootenays for the laidback small-town vibe Nelson is renown for.

The professional mountain biker enjoyed team sports like soccer when he was younger and wanted to play at a high level. But when he encountered mountain biking, he fell in love. Both riding and snowboarding gave him an opportunity to be creative that he hadn’t found in team sports.

Sorge went pro early: in 2004, before producing and uploading your own videos was big, he entered an online contest (Ultimate Freeride Challenge) and won.

These days, he’s into big mountain riding. This year Sorge will build his riding by exploring backcountry BC terrain, as well as visiting volcanoes, a new passion of his.

“They’re very much alive. It’s amazing what the earth is doing,” says the budding vulcanophile.

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213B Baker St Nelson, BC 250 354 3831 info@sacredride.ca | www.sacredride.ca NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

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Six notable spots worth the effort to find

By Greg Nesteroff

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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

Not every noteworthy location in West Kootenay is easy to find. For those willing to venture to remote, tucked away, or underground places, surprise awaits.

Tara Hunter phot

o

Wilson Creek Falls near Rosebery (seen above and top right) is picture perfect. Tara Hunter photo

Wilson Creek Falls This waterfall drops 207 feet (62 m) into a canyon in Goat Range Provincial Park near Rosebery. It’s well worth the short but steep hike. To get there, drive 5.3 km north of New Denver on Highway 6, then turn right onto East Wilson Creek forest service road. It’s another 11.5 km along a gravel road until you reach a signed turnoff, then one kilometer over a very rough road to the trailhead. The hike to the falls is a 2.2 km round trip.

The Busk estate The strangest site in Kokanee Creek Provincial Park is an abandoned swimming pool — formerly on the estate of Charles W. Busk, from which the park was created.

tate is a curious on the former Busk es ol po ng mi im sw e ret The conc Nesteroff photo Provincial Park. Greg ek Cre e ne ka Ko in e sit

Busk, a well-to-do English surveyor, came to Nelson in the late 1880s, where he laid out the lower Fairview neighbourhood and pre-empted land at Balfour. He also bought property further down the lake with plans to start an orchard and in 1901 hired Nelson architects Ewart and Carrie to design him a mansion.

The six-bedroom home overlooked the West Arm of Kootenay Lake and boasted an equal number of chimneys plus a spiral oak staircase.

On the grounds were rock walls, a tennis court, stable, soccer field and the first private swimming pool in West Kootenay. Here Busk entertained for more than a decade until construction of a new highway threatened his paradise and he swapped the property for land at Deer Park.

NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

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The Kootenay’s Best

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The Cold War bunk er under Nelson’s post offi ce has been leased by To uchstones Nelson for ar tifac t storage.

Greg Nesteroff ph oto

The Marblehead quarry was responsible for providing materials for many notable builidings.

Greg Nesteroff photo

Decades of graffiti on display at the quarry.

Greg Nesteroff photo

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Fast forward to 1955, when Kokanee Creek park was established on land where Busk once ran a scout camp. The provincial government subsequently acquired the rest of the estate, including the now-derelict house.

After someone tried to set it on fire, parks staff decided to finish the job themselves.

But while the house is gone, some rock walls and a concrete staircase remain. The most impressive ruin is the oval-shaped concrete swimming pool, now covered with moss but still intact. It’s a short walk off Kokanee Glacier Road — but only if you know where to look.

Marblehead quarry Just north of Meadow Creek is the Marblehead quarry, established in the first decade of the 20th century. It provided building materials for impressive edifices locally and for the Mormon temple at Cardston, Alberta and Great West Life block in Winnipeg, among others. The quarry last operated in the 1930s but the giant cavity that remains is something to behold. Judging from all the graffiti, it’s also been a popular hangout for many decades.

NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

Plans to re-establish the quarry as a business are on hold following the owner’s recent death. Marblehead survives as the name of the regional district transfer station and on the sign of Marblehead Automotive Service, which is an an old cookhouse.

The Diefenbunker The basement of Nelson’s post office contains a Cold War secret: a bunker, built in 1963 to house local officials in the event of an atomic war or other crisis. It was one of 50 such facilities across Canada, nicknamed Diefenbunkers after Prime Minister John Diefenbaker, who authorized their construction. (Although technically, the name only applies to the largest one in Carp, Ont.) The bunker was only ever used for civil defence exercises, and by the late 1960s was phased out and became storage for the post office. In 2013, the first public tour of the bunker was offered through Touchstones Nelson, which has since leased the space for artifact storage. A new permanent exhibit will open this year, examining the bunker’s history.

A pedestrian tunnel beneath Highway 3A connects Nelson’s Rosemont neighourhood with Cottonwood Falls Park. Greg Nesteroff Photo

This sign on the old telegraph office at Cody went missing within the last few years.

Greg Nesteroff Photo

The Noble Five concentrator is the largest ruin at the ghost town of Cody, near Sandon. Greg Nesteroff Photo

Your kid’s coach knows Your kid’sT-ball. coach Not T4. knows T-ball.

Rosemont pedestrian tunnel When a new highway interchange was built at Nelson’s western approach in the early 1970s, a pedestrian tunnel was installed to connect lower Rosemont with Cottonwood Falls Park. But it’s easily overlooked. To access it from the lower side, go to the end of Railway Street, opposite the Nelson District Rod and Gun Club and follow the sidewalk up the hill. Pop through the tunnel, under Highway 3A, and you’ll be spit out onto McHardy Street.

Cody Sandon is one of BC’s best-known ghost towns. But travel a few more kilometers up the north side of Carpenter Creek over a rough road and you’ll arrive at much lesser-known Cody. A few old buildings still stand, along with the impressive ruins of the Noble Five concentrator. The town took its name after Cody Creek, in turn named for adventurer-prospector Henry Cody — who is also the namesake of the Cody Caves near Ainsworth.

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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

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A How to ski with a toddler and love every crazy second of it

By Eli Geddis

2 0 NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

sk any backcountry skier about the effort-to-reward ratio, and they’re likely to wax gnar-poetic about early mornings, aching joints, and skinning up into the sunrise. They’ll tell you about the perfect lines of ascent, the untracked mountainsides, the risks, thrills, and face shots. And seriously, it’s a lot of work. There’s extra gear to buy, schedules to keep to, prep work and leg work and courses and hazards. It’s an emotional and physical investment, bordering on spiritual. Often psychotic.

No ski experience can really equate to it. That is, until you take your toddler skiing.

Now, I know my way around a mountain. Growing up in Fernie under the constant watchful gaze of an entire mountain-range of a ski hill, I put in my time. I’ve skied waist-deep powder days, from peak to valley, and bootpacked up stupidly steep slopes to clock mere seconds of untracked good stuff. And there was a time, after moving to Nelson with my partner, that I considered waking up at the late hour of 8 a.m. to hitch a ride up to Whitewater a considerable expenditure of effort.

But then, in the summer of 2016, our daughter Bergen was born.

And oh, the early days of parenting. Skiing went on hiatus. And was replaced by something bigger and deeper and more real than any powder day. And for two years, I didn’t think about it much.

But this winter, with a toddler in tow, we decided to hit the slopes again. Here’s my guide to the dos, don’ts, and maybes of a ski experience to rival the backcountry, in both effort and (sometimes, sublimely) reward:

Get the gear. Sure, it adds up, and they’re likely to age out of any equipment almost instantly, but a lot of items you can stretch into two seasons of use or more. I have adult friends who tear through equipment faster than that, so it’s not unreasonable. Real boots, real bindings, real skis. Just, you know, littler.

When I take my 2½-year-old daughter skiing, part of our ritual is putting on our gear together. We both buckle into our boots, we both fasten our helmet straps and slide down our goggles. She’s involved, she’s invested. She’s sharing the experience with mom and dad.

And just so you don’t have any illusions, you’re going to get full-throated resistance the first time those little toesies slide into the carbonite-fusing lobster traps of real ski boots.

All the work they’ve put into the fine art of bipedal travel is suddenly out the window. “Mom, Dad. Why. Can’t. I. Move!?”

But when it clicks, and yes, it does, it’s magical. More on that in a minute.

Be strategic. The first time I brought Bergen to the hill, I parked near the back of the lot, wrestled her into her boots (of which she was not a fan) threw my skis and hers over my left shoulder, and picked her up with my right arm. She dangled limp, spread-eagle arms out, goggled face towards the bluebird sky, heavier than a sack of potatoes. I collapsed halfway across the parking lot, muscles spasming, and dislodged skis and poles swinging akimbo.

Nelson’s Eli Geddis has been getting back into skiing with and through the eyes of his daughter Bergen.

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Lesson learned. Now, I pull into the loading zone, unload all of our equipment, then backtrack to find a parking spot. She plants herself in a little blue sled, and I pull her, carefree, right to her waiting skis.

Trust in their abilities. When we first started skiing together, I expected to use the whole array of training aids: harnesses, “edgie-wedgies,” a hula hoop to hold onto. But after a few warm-up sessions of basically gliding around on the flats outside of the daylodge, I realized that what she wanted was a little autonomy.

She wanted to “go fast” (her words) “down big hill. By myself!”

“I tried to use a harness with my daughter,” a friend of mine told me the other day in the lift line. “But she would just turn into a limp noodle. I’d spend all my effort just holding her upright.” This resonated with me: left alone, as upright humans, we generally try to stay that way, gliding toddlers not excepted. If I gave her the chance, what would she do?

And so, one day, at the top of the cable tow (a ridiculous device that no “do or don’t” guide will ever prepare you to successfully navigate with your little one) I positioned her, skied down the hill a few metres, and turned around.

“All right, shuffle your feet,” I said. “Point those skis where you want to go.”

Hesitantly, she rocked back and forth, took one clunky step forward, then another. And then, as gravity and momentum caught her, she began to glide. I saw her face, a mixture of awe and joy

and trepidation, as she whooshed into my arms. And that was it.

Those three metres of unsupported, pure momentum were the most thrilling seconds of all my years of skiing. This little human, whose journey I’ve been so grateful to be on, had just skied.

I know there are going to be challenges from here. She can now bomb down the bunny hill. She giggles the whole way, and I manage to stay enough in front of her to catch her before she reaches the bottom. But what about learning to turn? To stop?

What about the chair lift?

But all those future concerns dissipate when I watch her soar.

Soon she’ll be racing, or throwing herself down upper Powder Keg, too busy to ski with slow old Dad. Or maybe she’ll want to stay home, to sleep in. Or perhaps she’ll stick a beacon under her jacket, put her touring skis on and skin up towards Evening Ridge. She’ll tell me all about how rewarding it was, and I’ll nod — remembering these days, the strategic unloading of gear, the time spent acclimatizing to new boots, her first shaky descent, my arms outstretched to beckon her, encourage her, and then catch her — and tell her that I can’t imagine.

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Artists had to contend with thick forest fire smoke during the first Nelson International Mural Festival, but still produced some lovely work. Bill Metcalfe Photo

From whitewash to masterpiece: how the International Mural Festival , is brightening up Nelson s downtown

By Ali Keraiff

T

he International Mural Festival will brighten Nelson’s outdoor spaces for the second year in a row, from Aug. 16 to 18. While last year’s festival was a success despite wildfire smoke, this year’s is gearing up to be even bigger and better. The Nelson and District Arts Council has been working to curate this weekend event that truly has it all: workshops, live music, artists’ panel, live dance, and a movie at the Civic Theatre. Not to mention the entire weekend is free.

NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

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Emilee Wheeler/Electrify Photography

Bill Metcalfe Photo

Last year 130 artists applied for eight available walls. This year, over 280 artists, from 34 countries including Rwanda, Argentina, Spain, the UK, Hong Kong, Denmark, China, Venezuela and Australia have sent in applications. A five-person jury made up of various community members will go through the stack of applications and artist announcements will be made between May 1 and June

15 at nelsonmuralfest.com. Although specific details of where these gorgeous public art pieces will be created are not being disclosed yet, they will be in the downtown core.

Until last year, Nelson had never hosted a mural festival; therefore festival organizers faced many daunting unknowns. Most importantly, one of the first steps to get the festival off the ground was receiving permis-

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Emilee Wheeler/Electrify Photography

sion from the Muralists of Nelson, a crew of local artists who have been creating art in city spaces for many years.

Sydney Black of the Nelson and District Arts Council is grateful for their input: “The Muralists of Nelson were incredibly helpful in lending scaffolds, donating paint, and helping in the process of facilitating large scale public art,” she says.

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Emilee Wheeler/Electrify Photography

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Luckily for the NDAC, mural policies were written by the Cultural Development Committee in 2000, revised in 2012, and facilitated the process of putting on this large scale public art festival. “The festival was really brilliantly supported by the city: from public works employees to development services’ efforts in processing permits, to the Nelson Muralists. It was truly a full community effort,” Black says.

Artists have had nothing but good things

Scenic Flights From the Nelson Airport • Kootenay Lake • Ymir Peak • Kokanee Glacier • Valhalla Park • Jumbo Glacier

Emilee Wheeler/Electrify Photography

to say about their experience in Nelson.

When a mural festival artist arrives in Nelson they are welcomed by an NDAC employee. Paint and supplies are waiting for them at their site. Artists are given between ten days and two weeks to complete their piece. They are billeted locally and welcomed wholeheartedly. Last year restaurants donated food to artists as they worked and on particularly hot days cold drinks and popsicles were given to artists

by people walking by.

To turn a blank wall into a piece of art involves a vulnerable process. A mural artist cannot work independently in their studio, only to release the finished product in all its glory. Their entire process is laid out, step by step, for the public to see. Black explains that “It is almost like performance art. These artists showed brave vulnerability to expose themselves creatively and let us watch their process from start to finish.”

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Sydney Black Emilee Wheeler/Electrify Photography

NDAC applies for numerous federal and provincial grants to ensure all artists and performers during the weekend are compensated. The grant writing process started as soon as soon as last year’s festival ended and “so far we have received a grant from Creative BC to kick off the music portion of the event, which will assist us in bringing in a diverse group of musical artists from throughout British Columbia.”

Bill Metcalfe Photo

The music portion of the weekend is being curated by Erica Dee. Musical artist announcements will come out in late May on the NDAC website.

Tom Thomson, executive director of the Nelson and District Chamber of Commerce, has nothing but good things to say about the event: “The Nelson International Mural Festival was a nice addition to the downtown core for locals and visitors alike. It

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was a great step forward with the Lanes Alive program that was proposed as part of the downtown urban design.

“The festival helps increase the cultural vibrancy of Nelson by engaging local and international street artists. Thanks to the Nelson and District Arts Council and of course the building owners for allowing this artwork and bringing some bare walls to life.”

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Many options - and degrees of comfort - exist for experiencing the Kootenay outdoors

By Trisha Elliott

W

hen I moved to Nelson at age 11, I went on my first family camping trip to Mirror Lake, a little pond across from majestic Kootenay Lake, south of Kaslo.

As I got older I ventured further into the wild and experienced a plethora of alpine lakes, canoe camping on various Kootenay Lake beaches, and winter overnight stays in cabins.

When a human wants to commune with nature there are two ways to do it — one involves suffering and one involves comfort. Whether you are camping or glamping, there are several factors to consider before formulating your plan.

NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2019

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CAMPING It’s fair to say that if you don’t have solid walls or electricity, you are camping. These hearty folks consider themselves purists, and would balk at the notion of a hairdryer on the scene. Car-camping and multi-day backpacking trips are two very different styles of camping. The former involves being able to bring much more stuff, and the latter is all about the weight in your backpack. The canoe camping trip is a nice option in between.

The Elements Is it raining, snowing, sleeting, or piping hot?

Mother Nature will dictate what gear you need to bring. Look up the weather forecast before you go and be prepared.

Bears Bear spray, bells, and whistles, are all different forms of bear protection. The best way to avoid problems with bears is to keep an extremely clean and smell-free campsite. Hang your food/dishes/ toiletries in a tree far from camp, or lock it all inside a vehicle. Bury any evidence of “nature calling” and remember when it comes to garbage, pack it in, pack it out.

Bugs Citronella candles or chemical bug spray? One is harmless and barely works, while the other may have side effects, and definitely works.

Shelter

Tents, tarps, hammocks, or the back of your truck — they all have their charms.

Fire Be sure to check the BC Wildfire Service website before you go for fire information and bans. And if you are allowed to have a fire, do not leave until you are 100 per cent sure it is out — not a whiff of smoke left swirling.

Fees or Free?

Paid campsites often have wood provided, outhouses, water taps, many other human beings and rules. The unpaid camping (aka guerrilla camping) often involves 4x4 driving up logging roads, finding a beautiful spot away from all humans (if you are lucky), finding your own wood/water/bathroom options, and making your own rules.

Campsites 1. Bannock Point rec site: 10 tent spots on Slocan Lake, accessed by boat or 700 m trail from Highway 6. Features a pebble beach, pristine swimming, and no fees. Closest town: Silverton 2. Wilson Lake rec sites: two different lakes with six campsites up a logging road with good fishing but not good for trailers/RVs. No fees. Closest town: Nakusp 3. Six Mile Lakes rec site: four sites with picnic tables and toilet facilities, a fairly short drive up a well-used logging road. No fees. Closest town: Nelson

CRAFT CONNECTION

FINE CRAFT GALLERY The Craft Connection is a successful locally run gallery for over 35 years featuring mostly local, and ALL CANADIAN artist and crafts people. We showcase an abundance of high quality pottery, jewelry, clothing for both children and adults, leather goods, paintings and wall art, body products, weaving, stained glass, and so much more!

Fine art and craft gallery

The Craft Connection is a locally run and operated gallery featuring mostly local, and ALL CANADIAN artist and crafts people. We currently have 8 active members, and approximately 240 consignees all selling their creations in our beautiful, 2 floor, heritage stone

378 BAKER ST. NELSON BC OPEN 8:30 - 5:30 MON - SAT & 12 - 4 SUN FROM APRIL -JAN building. Our gallery has been successfully operating for over 35 years, and we are very proud to showcase only the highest quality of talents, and items made by hand. Once inside our doors, you’ll see no shortage of pottery, jewelry, clothing for both children and adults, leather goods, paintings and other fantastic wall art, body products, weaving, stained glass, and so much more!

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Trisha Elliott and Boris the Wonder Dog set sail on Slocan Lake for a canoe camp at Evans Creek.

Chris O’Gorman photo

Nelson burlesque pioneer Scarlet Rose glamps it up at Al Shaw’s hippy bus in Krestova. Trisha Elliott photo

GLAMPING The Glamper is a different sort. These humans are all about comfort — the more gear and the less physical effort, the better.

Plug-ins Do they exist at your potential campground? If not (gasp), consider the various generators on the market.

Wi-Fi Do they have it? Is it free? Is it secure? Is it fast?

Paved/Unpaved What kind of tires does your camper/RV have? How much will your house on wheels shake on the ground it is driving over, and what will this do to your ultrasonic oil diffuser?

Food Can you order take-out to your glamper? If not, do you bring your electric smoker, your crock pot, or your blender? Oh, just bring it all, you silly goose.

Glampsites 1. Kokanee Creek Provincial Park: White sand beaches, real flushing toilets, a playground, pavement, plug-ins, treed privacy or open concept — this is a glamper’s paradise. There is the Kokanee Nature Centre, which is open July and August. For a real treat go in late August to see the red spawning salmon filling the creek. An electrified site: $39 per night 2. Shambhala Music Festival, Aug. 9 to 12: Glamping was probably invented here. Music fans literally set up yurts, hammocks, and outdoor living rooms, and come prepared with different costumes for each day of the festival. General admission (including a tent spot): $450 (minimum).

3. Kootenay houseboat rental: Listed on Airbnb for $300 per night (plus a nominal captain’s fee), you can rent a 60-foot houseboat with three bedrooms and two bathrooms. Just remember to hire your private masseuse/chef separately.

Built as an explosives depot in 1895, 280 Baker Street is part of Nelson’s Heritage Walking Tour and now home to Valhalla Path

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