Special Features - Vancouver Island North 2013

Official Guide to

Vancouver Island North 2013

www.vancouverislandnor th.ca www.nor thislandgazette.com

Gazette NORTH ISLAND

WHALE WATCHING • WILDLIFE TOURS

DISCOVER

WHALE WATCH TELEGRAPH COVE NORTHERN VANCOUVER ISLAND

BRITISH COLUMBIA’S 1ST WHALE WATCHING COMPANY – FOUNDED 1980

WWW.STUBBS-ISLAND.COM RESERVATIONS OR INFORMATION

1-800-665-3066

Stubbs Island Whale Watching is dedicated to ethical wildlife viewing, education and conservation.

2 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Black Bear Resort & Spa Newest resort & spa on northern Vancouver Island

Spectacular ocean view rooms West Coast cabins Deluxe continental breakfast Free wireless internet No smoking/no pets Wheelchair accessible rooms BBQ area Kitchenette suites Meeting room Adult only spa facility and pool area Fitness centre 25 minutes from BC Ferries terminal to Prince Rupert BC

WŽƌƚ DĐEĞŝůů Ͳ ƌŝƟƐŚ ŽůƵŵďŝĂ 1-866-956-4900 info@blackbearresort.net BlackBearResort.net www.northislandgazette.com | 3

welcome to

Vancouver Island North V

ancouver Island North is the first word and last stop in western Canada for relaxed and spontaneous eco-adventure. The upper third of the North America’s largest island is unspoiled and largely undiscovered yet just a day’s travel from Vancouver, Victoria and Seattle. It offers a breathtaking palette of parks, forests, lakes, saltwater inlets and jigsaw-puzzle coastline. Black bears forage for berries, whales splash at sea and eagles glide overhead. The region also stretches past the shores of Vancouver Island to include magnificent Knight Inlet and a swath of the Great Bear Rainforest on the mainland of British Columbia.

Our friendly towns and villages are charmingly relaxed, pleasingly civilized and within easy reach of the area’s many special wild places. Once unpacked, you’re free to experience the North Island at your own pace. Spend your days out at sea, exploring magical coastlines, or immersed in our inland wilderness. Meet and mingle with the friendly locals at cultural, seasonal and community festivals.

Shop for crafts created on the North Island. Experience First Nations traditions and art. Dine on the day’s catch around a campfire or treat yourself to a good meal at one of our restaurants.

Photograph black bears on the Island and their grizzly counterparts in the Great Bear Rainforest on the adjacent mainland coast.

Run the world’s fastest navigable tidal rapids. Try scuba diving at God’s Pocket Marine Park, surfing at Raft Cove or kayaking on the sheltered east or wild west coasts. Perhaps best of all, strap on a backpack for a trek to windswept, impossibly scenic Cape Scott Provincial Park at the island’s northern tip.

The Kwakwaka’wakw peoples have called this region home for thousands of years. Alert Bay is internationally known for its First Nations cultural centre, public dance performances and the world’s tallest totem pole. Visitors to Fort Rupert watch awestruck as native carvers transform raw wood into exquisite art.

Fishing, logging and mining drew the first European settlers north in the 1860’s, and their history is documented in a good selection of local museums. Telegraph Cove is a virtual museum in itself with its wooden buildings, boardwalk and Whale Interpretive Centre.

Peaceful oceanfront communities like Sointula, Sayward and Quatsino remain havens for the same getaway-from-it-all dreams that drew their original homesteaders.

As the sun sinks in the west, relax with your traveling companions wherever you’ve settled – wilderness campground, B&B, cabin, cottage, hotel or resort. Trade stories, scan digital snapshots and plan tomorrow’s new adventure. After all the fresh air and active playtime, you’ll sleep well and awake refreshed, revitalized and ready for more.

Find yourself while getting lost in nature. Enjoy the amenities of our towns and villages. And visit during summer festival season for a taste of authentic community spirit. Whether you’re seeking adventure or relaxation, this remote yet accessible corner of British Columbia serves up outdoor pleasures with a satisfying dash of comfort.

Explore the North Island on your own with go-anywhere impulsiveness. Or hand the reigns to expert guides and charter operators. Troll for salmon in the Queen Charlotte Strait or steelhead and trout in inland lakes. Watch orcas spy hop across ocean waves. Ski world-class powder at crowd-free Mount Cain.

Published by North Island Gazette Box 458, Port Hardy, BC V0N 2P0 Phone 250-949-6225 Fax 250-949-7655 publisher@northislandgazette.com

Front Cover photos Grizzly: Derek Kyostia Man with Fish: Jamie Harrison First Nations-Fort Rupert Big House: J.R. Rardon

Main: Humpback whale “KC” (BCY0291, born 2002) by Jackie Hildering www.themarinedetective.ca

in partnership with Vancouver Island North Tourism © 2013 North Island Gazette.

No portion of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the North Island Gazette.

Budget Car & Truck Rental 4850 Byng Rd & at the Airport Reservations & Info call

250-949-6442 GREAT RATES * GREAT SERVICE www.bcbudget.com 4 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

ACTIVITIES

Day Trips Grizzly Bear V iewing Why Yo

Whale Watching

Why You’ve Got To Go

u’ve Got To G

o • Close proxim ity to grizzly be ar habitat on th mainland coas e t means more vie wing time • Experienced guides provide safe and educational tour s

• This area is known to be one of the best pla ces on earth to view kille whales r • Further marine life inc ludes: humpback whale s, two porpoise specie Pacific white-sided dol s, phins, Steller sea lions, Minke whales, harbou seals and a great divers r ity of sea birds • Guided tours enhanc e the experience with sig hting expertise and information on local ma rine life and the ecosystem

Getting There

• Tours depart daily (May -Sep t) from Telegraph Cove

Getting There

Suggestions

• Late May to mid-June is mating season , a particularly ac tive time for viewing • During the fa ll bears are seen catchin g salmon • A good set of binoculars will get you a close r look

• Tours depart daily (M ay/Jun Telegraph Cove, Port Mc -Oct) from Neill, and Alert Bay

Suggestions

Boome

r Jerritt

• Dress in layers and bring a warm shirt and jacket, even in the summer months • Don’t forget your cam era!

photo

Robin Quirk photo

Fishing Why You’ve Got To Go

• Queen Charlotte Strait is situated on migration routes for salmon running on both the east and west coast of the Island • Halibut are here • Vancouver Island North waters also offer snapper, cod, crabs, prawns and more

Getting There

Nick Sims photo

• Fishing day charters are available out of most communities, on both the west and east coast

Suggestions

• Book in advance so you’re not disappointed • You will need a fishing license which can be purchased online www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca

Activities & Attractions Cape Scott Provincial Park......................... 13 Caving........................................................ 14 Day Trips..................................................... 5 Diving......................................................... 14 First Nations.............................................. 21 Fun & Relaxation....................................... 10 Hiking........................................................ 12 Kayaking.................................................... 15 Museums & Cultural Centres..................... 11 Sport Fishing................................................ 9 Whale Watching.......................................... 7 Wildlife......................................................... 6

Day Hikes

Why You’ve Got To Go

• Riverside trails forest • Paths through the rain ve abo nds dla hea ged • Rug the ocean • Seaside boardwalks lks • Expansive beach wa

Vancouver Island

North photo

Getting There

uver in and around all Vanco • Great variety of trails es niti Island North commu gestions • See page 12 for sug details and location for p • Make sure to sto nity Visitor Centres information at commu

Facilities & Information Accommodations.................................. 18-19 Camping & Recreation Sites...................... 20 Charters.................................................... 8-9 Community Maps.................................. 34-37 Dining........................................................ 17 Regional Map........................................ 32-33 Travelling................................................... 16

Communities Alert Bay............................................... 22-25 Broughton Archipelago.............................. 53 Coal Harbour............................................. 26 Holberg & Winter Harbour......................... 28 Port Alice.............................................. 29-31 Port Hardy............................................. 38-47 Port McNeill.......................................... 48-52 Quatsino.................................................... 27 Sayward................................................ 54-55 Sointula................................................. 56-57 Telegraph Cove..................................... 58-60 Woss & Nimpkish Valley............................ 61 Zeballos..................................................... 62

www.northislandgazette.com | 5

ACTIVITIES & attractions

Wildlife Wild things roam here. Expect your first sightings to be majestic bald eagles riding the updrafts overhead or perhaps a black bear munching on sweet grass at the edge of Highway 19 (locally known as “bear alley”). The Roosevelt Elk and Vancouver Island Marmot are unique to the region. Great blue herons fish at the edge of estuaries that echo with the sweet call of songbirds.

The Vancouver Island North region includes a section of the mainland coast that is renowned as one of the world’s finest destinations for grizzly bear sightseeing. Day tours depart from Telegraph Cove to Knight Inlet by boat, and multi-day tours (including accommodation at a floating wilderness lodge) head to the Great Bear Rainforest from Port Hardy by floatplane.

To stay safe and make the most of these rare photo opportunities, please be aware of the following when encountering wildlife: • Always travel in a group and keep a close eye on small children and pets when hiking in the woods.

• Talk, sing, whistle or wear a bell when hiking in order to avoid startling a wild animal.

• If you encounter a wild animal, stay back a respectful distance so that they do not feel threatened.

• Do not feed wild animals.

• If confronted by a wild animal, pick up small children, make yourself look as large as possible, back away slowly and leave the area.

“One of the best adventure travel companies on earth.”

National Geographic Adventure Andrew Mitchell photo

GREAT BEAR LODGE Bear-viewing at floating wilderness lodge. www.greatbeartours.com

GRIZZLY BEARS OF KNIGHT INLET

Locals K now:

For over 15 years Tide Rip Grizzly Tours has been leading daily expeditions to view and photograph the wild coastal grizzly bears of Knight Inlet, British Columbia.

Climb aboard one of our Coast Guardcertified vessels under the command of our local knowledgeable Naturalists for an intimate experience with one of the largest carnivores on Earth in a truly remote rainforest setting!

The highwa y is known as between Port McNeill and Port Ha “Bear Alley” rd early summ er it is comm - during the spring an y d grazing on on to see b the roadsid lack bears e grass. Kee near the Po pa rt places to sp Alice turn-off, one of th close eye out ot a bear. e more likel y

Visit: www.grizzlycanada.com Call: 001 250-928-3090 Email: tiderip@telus.net

6 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

ACTIVITIES

Whale Watching

V

ancouver Island North’s most celebrated residents are its marine mammals. Members of a population of some 260 fish-eating orcas known as the “Northern Resident” orca whales hunt salmon in local waters. Additional pods of more stealthy, marine mammal-eating orcas known as “Transients” or “Bigg’s killer whales” also often hunt in the area.

Back from the brink of extinction, humpback whales are now also a regular sighting and make this area all the more remarkable for its marine mammal diversity. Sightseeing trips may also encounter Pacific harbour seals, Dall’s and harbour porpoise, Minke whales and a prodigious array of seabirds. Acrobatic Pacific white-sided dolphins and the world’s largest sea lion species, the Steller sea lion, are in the area year-round, though spring and fall are the most predictable times to see large numbers of both. The sight of dozens of sea lions lazing on the rocks and growling loudly is unforgettable.

Vancouver Island North tour operators view all of these magnificent creatures with respect. The small community of operators here is dedicated to ensuring safe, sustainable

encounters that serve marine mammals and sightseers in equal measure. Captains closely adhere to “Be Whale Wise” guidelines that dictate that boats stay at least 100 metres away from any whales. That’s not to say these remarkable mammals won’t make a memorable encounter on their own terms.

Be Whale Wise guidelines apply to all tour operators, commercial and pleasure craft, as well as kayaks and other self-propelled vessels: • Be cautious and courteous, approaching known areas of marine wildlife activity with extreme caution • Reduce speed to less than 7 knots when within 400 metres of the nearest whale • Keep clear of the whales’ path of travel • Do not approach whales from the front or behind, always approach and depart from the side • Do not approach or position your vessel closer than 100 metres to any whale • Stay on the offshore side of the whales when they are travelling close to shore • Do not swim with, touch or feed marine wildlife

Robin Quirk photo

Sea Kayaking with Whales Vancouver Island

• • • • •

-

Haida Gwaii

-

Great Bear Rainforest

No Experience Necessary For Most Tours Base Camp and Expedition Style Tours Maximum of 8 Guests with 2 Guides One to Fifteen Day Adventures Scheduled Family Departures

www.kingfisher.ca

1-866-546-4347

Locals K now:

One of the ve whales and ry best times of the ye ar to view other marin e of Septemb er. With salm life is during the month schooling, a on running, n small fish their food so d big tidal exchanges concentrati urce, whale ng s mammals a re attracted and many other marin e to this area .

www.northislandgazette.com | 7

ACTIVITIES

Charters Whales, Dolphins, Porpoise

Multi-day Adventures For over 30 years we have been working with researchers and scientists with the killers whales of the Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Archipelago Historic Telegraph Cove, British Columbia is the departure point Full days on the water make it possible to gain true insight into the full marine eco-system MV Gikumi is Transport Canada certified

orcellaexpeditions.com ¡ Telegraph Cove ¡ British Columbia ¡ Canada

Telephone: (250) 928-3187 ¡ Toll Free: 1-888-928-6722 ¡ Fax: (250) 928-3040 ¡ Email: info@orcellaexpeditions.com

Nakwakto Rapids Tours Guided by native storytellers and seasoned skippers, visit the world’s fastest navigable tidal rapids and explore coastal wilderness.

Departing from the Art Shack, Seagate Dock Port Hardy

www.nakwaktorapidstours.com 250-230-3574 A GNN Marine Service www.gnnmarine.com

All inclusive salmon, halibut & bottomfish packages

Regan Hickling

“30 years plus� experience in local waters

www.rumblebeachfishingcharter.com Box 11, P B Portt Ali Alice, BC V0N 2N0 • 250-284-6204 or cell: 250-209-2779

serengetifishingcharters.com 1-888-281-2275

SALMON CITY CHARTERS Full & Half Day Fishing Charters 3ALMON s (ALIBUT s "OTTOM &ISH FT FULLY ENCLOSED TROPHY BOAT WITH HEATED CABIN WASHROOM ON BOARD

Larry Weber 250-902-9493

larry@leisuresuitcharters.com www.leisuresuitcharters.com

Specializing in fishing trips for salmon, halibut & steelhead.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca 88 || www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Certified & Insured!

Book a charter today & experience one of the best salmon fishing spots in the world. s TYEENIGHTMARE HOTMAIL COM

ACTIVITIES

Sport Fishing I

mmerse yourself in one of the North Island’s most enjoyable pastimes. Cast a line as you motor past postcard maritime scenery. Wait patiently for the big ones to bite while enjoying the camaraderie of fellow passengers and the good humour of the laidback guides who lead charter expeditions. Then get set to reel in the catch of the day, soon to be cleaned and readied for either the evening campfire or professionally prepared, frozen or vacuum-packed for the trip home.

All five varieties of Pacific salmon run fast on migration routes that travel down the west and east side of the Island, occasionally detouring on tides and currents out into the Queen Charlotte Strait. That gives North Island fishing enthusiasts first dibs on these delicious (especially when barbequed with olive oil, a touch of lemon and plenty of butter) members of the genus known as Oncorhynchus (aka the big pink ones) as they head south to their spawning grounds.

Float your own boat at one of the many convenient ramps in our waterfront communities. Or hire a qualified charter operator.

Freshwater - Nimpkish Lake - Schoen Lake - Victoria Lake - Woss Lake - O’Connor Lake - Quatse River - Nahwitti River - Keogh River - Cluxewe River

Saltwater - Blackfish Sound - Dillon, Daphne & Duval Points - Gordon Group - Masterman Island - Telegraph Cove - Cormorant Island - Cluxewe River Mouth - Wells Passage - Haddington Island - Quatsino Sound

Local guides supply all the gear, licenses and advice necessary to reel in prize catches. Comfortable fishing boats are available by the half-day or day (be sure to book in advance). And you don’t have to go far from shore since the fish are typically biting within the length of a fishing line cast from any available dock.

Visitor Information Centers have leads on guides and useful tips on what’s biting when and where. Also available are maps of the logging roads that head to steelhead and trout-filled wilderness lakes and streams. These routes are bumpy, and a solid fourwheel drive vehicle is recommended (but not essential provided one drives slow and easy).

Be sure to time your visit for when the fish are running. Salmon tend to migrate from May through September, and their numbers peak in the summer and fall. Halibut are abundant from March to September. Red snapper and ling cod are also caught locally, as are crab, prawns, oysters and mussels. Ask around at dockside or visit the Fisheries and Oceans Canada website, www.dfo-mpo. gc.ca, for tips about regulations, licenses and conservation areas.

Locals K now:

In early-Sep te incredible fi mber the boat is optio sh na the dock or ing experience can be l! An the seashore ha Island rivers near the mo d right from a spawning se s the salmon start retu uth North rning during ason. the

1-877-663-6722 www.whaletime.com • mackaybd@telus.net Jamie Harrison photos

www.northislandgazette.com | 9

ACTIVITIES

Fun & Relaxation

W

ith a wealth of recreational, entertaining, and educational alternatives, the towns of Vancouver Island North offer numerous options for go-your-own-way activities.

Kellie Dukes

Relaxation Facilitator

A 1.5 to 2 hour pure relaxation massage using heated & cooled jade stones 7565 Glacier Crescent East PO Box 1662 Port Hardy, BC V0N 2P0

Check Visitor Centres, coffee shop bulletin boards or the “Hot Spots� section of the North Island Gazette for the latest on festivals, concerts, special events, exhibits and other fun activities.

Tel: 250-230-0095 Fax: 250-949-7839 strokesofjade@yahoo.ca

Enjoy a drop-in work-out, yoga class and much more at recreation centres in the region. Pamper yourself with a spa treatment or a massage from skilled bodyworkers.

Creative Edge Salon & Spa offers a wide variety of services such as haircuts, colouring, hair products, Port Hardy’s only Pedicure Throne, manicures, facials, gel/ acrylic nails, make-up, tanning, the newest anti-aging services and products, cold laser treatments, collagen treatments, microdermabrasion.

Come down to our shop and meet all of us and get yourself a FRESH new look or come get pampered.

7035 Market 250-949-5905

CafĂŠ Guido & West Coast Community Craft Shop

Need something to do?

We have craft and art supplies!

The Hobby Nook

We are your one stop shop for all your custom Port Hardy souvenirs. • shirts • hats • mugs • stickers • magnets • water bottles Have your vacation photo on a mug or shirt!

5685 Hardy Bay Road • 250-949-6544

Seven Hills Golf Country Club

A scenic 9 hole course nested in the North Island forest and rated as one of BC’s best 9 hole courses.

SHOP - local art is featured in West Coast Community Craft Shop gallery

SIP - indulge in espressos & sweet homemade scones at CafĂŠ Guido

SAVOUR - great new books and funky giftware in the Book Nook

7135 Market Street, Port Hardy CafĂŠ & Books: 250.949.9808 Gallery: 250-949-2650

10 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Seven Hills Golf & Country Club

s 0AR RATING LICENSED SLOPE s $RIVING RANGE s 0RO 3HOP s #LUB RENTALS s 2ESTAURANT FULLY s 26 SITES FULL Take Port Alice Hwy turnoff, only 2 minutes away.

HOOK UP s 0OWER CART RENTALS

CLUB RENTALS

250-949-9818 sevenhillsgolf.ca

Blonde Ambition creates a relaxing atmosphere for all you tired travellers. Creating packages that meet all your needs.

B

Blonde Ambition

Come in or call today to see what we have to offer.

Hairstylist: Cara Strasdine Working with all ages to accommodate any service.

Senior colour specialist

250-949-9798 7215 Market St. Port Hardy

ACTIVITIES & attractions

Museums & Cultural Centres C

ultural explorers can dig deep into the ancient, recent and living histories of Vancouver Island North when visiting a surprisingly diverse range of cultural treasure boxes packed with colorful displays and exhibits.

Go back to the source at the Port Hardy Museum and Archives, which houses artifacts from a local archeological dig at Bear Cove – the oldest known site of human habitation on Vancouver Island (circa 5850 BCE). Exhibits change regularly while shining thematic lights on First Nations history, the Hudson’s Bay Company and European settlement.

The U’mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay is rated far and wide as one of Canada’s finest First Nations museums with its unparalleled collection of potlatch regalia. Modeled after a big house, it is dedicated to preserving the heritage of the Kwakwaka’wakw. The gift shop features superb jewelry, carvings, textiles and more.

Forestry has been a leading commercial activity on the North Island since European settlers arrived in the 1860’s. Based in a sturdy log house, the Port McNeill Heritage Museum tracks local history with archival photos, exhibits and vintage logging equipment.

An easy walk from the ferry landing, the Sointula Museum is home to artifacts, archival records and displays related to the colourful history of Malcolm Island. A primary focus is on the Finnish immigrants who arrived here in the 1880’s to launch a short-lived utopian commune.

Boaters heading northwest across Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound are advised to linger in Echo Bay and visit Billy Proctor’s Museum and Gift Shop. The author and life-long area resident has collected fascinating memorabilia from the logging, fishing and trapping eras.

Telegraph Cove’s family friendly Whale Interpretive Centre is dedicated to raising public awareness about the fragile ecosystem and migratory inhabitants of Johnstone Strait. Highlights include interactive displays, a kid’s corner, educational films and the skeletal remains of whales, dolphins and other wildlife.

Learn about the perilous journey of salmon and their incredible survival stories at the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre in Port Hardy. Located beside a working hatchery, the centre features interactive exhibits, games and a family theatre.

The Port Alice Heritage Centre, above the fire hall, offers a look at the town’s intriguing history. It’s also the site of the Visitor Information Centre and a gift shop that sells locally made art, crafts, greeting cards, honey and jams.

Discover the rich history of Coal Harbour as a whaling station and military base thanks to resident Joel Eilertsen, who welcomes visitors to his collection in the town’s old Air Force hangar.

Artifacts and archival material are stored and displayed in the Quatsino Museum across from the government dock. It’s open daily in July and August in the early afternoon, and throughout the year during weekend lunch hours. Email curator Gwen Hansen for a private showing: quatsino.museum@recn.ca.

Whale Interp retive Centre Telegraph C ove

retive Centre Whale Interp ove Telegraph C

Old Air Force Hangar - Coal Harbour

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ACTIVITIES

Hiking E

very day on Northern Vancouver Island dawns with fresh possibilities for those eager to explore the region on foot. Take it easy with short, scenic loop routes. Spend the day marching there and back to a postcard picnic spot by lake, river or ocean. Or go long on overnight and multi-day backpacking treks into the heart of nature.

Casual hikers can map out the day’s agenda over breakfast, then embark on a series of diverse trails. Dedicated trails and abandoned logging roads penetrate deep into the landscape. Many seaside communities are lined with wheelchairaccessible seawalls and boardwalks perfect for family outings and sunset strolls prior to an evening meal. Local Visitor Centres can provide details on such hiking options as the following: Port Hardy’s Quatse Loop and Estuary Trail lead from the fisherman’s wharf and oceanfront hotels. The Quatse Estuary is home to eagles, herons and all kinds of birdlife. The forested 2.5 km Quatse Loop Trail veers off and follows the river past the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre with its interpretive displays and hatchery.

Beachcombers flock to Storey’s Beach, an inviting stretch of sand near Fort Rupert just south of Port Hardy. Wade in the gentle tides or tackle the rugged 11

km out-and-back Tex Lyon Trail. The beach is one terminus of the lovely Fort Rupert Trail, a newly upgraded route that follows an ancient First Nations pathway through the forest and past a lake to the Bear Cove Road.

Near Port McNeill the Cluxewe Salt Marsh Trail offers a sweet 45-minute return trip to the beach.

All the First Nations must-sees of Alert Bay on Cormorant Island are within an easy hike of the ferry terminal. There’s an uphill climb (or relaxed drive) to the Ecological Park with its marsh boardwalk, excellent bird-watching and network of forested trails. Otherwise the strolling is mostly sea level along the restored boardwalk and oceanfront seawall.

Follow in the footsteps of Sointula’s pioneers along Malcolm Island’s historic Mateoja Heritage Trail, a 6-km return trip. Or watch for orcas when hiking the aptly named Beautiful Bay Trail (10-km return).

The Sayward Futures Society manages a series of lovely wilderness hiking tails, including the two-hour forested Cottonwood Loop and, for those with the four-wheel drive vehicles necessary to access it, the Stowe Creek Trail leading to the peak of H’Kusam Mountain.

Did You K now:

The North Co Provincial P ast Trail in Cape Scott ark is a 58 km multi-da hiking route y th already con at opened in 2008 an sidered by m d is of the best a backcountr ny to be one y adventure the world. s in

250-956-2411

info@islanddaytrippers.com www.islanddaytrippers.com Port McNeill, BC

Book a Hike Now! 12 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Cape Scott Provincial Park, San Josef Trail & Merry Widow Mountain Trail Boomer Jerritt & Steve Fines photos

ACTIVITIES & attractions

Cape Scott Provincial Park

www.capescottpark.com

T

ravel is a journey, not a destination, and it’s a memorable one when taken step by remarkable step in exploring the northern tip of Vancouver Island. Still relatively undiscovered, the sweeping tidal flats, forested trails and ocean-slammed headlands of Cape Scott Provincial Park are increasingly showing up on the radar of the international backpacking community.

Day hikers and family groups can get a satisfying taste of the larger possibilities by taking the 90-minute return trail to San Josef Bay’s sandy beach on a wellgroomed path from the trailhead parking lot. Backpackers seeking a tougher challenge take the original Cape Scott Trail along 16 km of varied terrain to incredible beach camping at Nels Bight.

The hardiest adventurers, meanwhile, find the ultimate backcountry experience on the North Coast Trail. This is a gloriously hard slog suitable for experienced hikers capable of tackling steep headlands, muddy swamps and cavernous gorges with the aid of fixed

ropes, boardwalks and cable cars. The 58 km one-way trip requires a minimum of five days.

Travel to the Cape Scott trailhead by driving past Holberg on the gravel logging road or arrange a shuttle from Port Hardy.

Water access to Shushartie Bay, the other end of the North Coast Trail, is also available from Port Hardy by water taxi.

Many backpackers who want a taste of this park’s rugged beauty without the multi-day trek of the North Coast Trail embark from the Cape Scott trailhead to Nissen Bight, Nels Bight and Guise Bay, all within a day’s hike out. Those who head to Cape Scott itself are invited to sign the guest book at the lighthouse.

Expect to see trace evidence of the late 19th century Danish settlers who tried to make this beautiful area their new home in the new world.

Come prepared! The weather is highly changeable, and layered clothing topped by sturdy rain gear is essential. Overnight campsites are dotted along these routes.

Cape S

cott Pr

Locals K now:

You can rea ch the sand a winding tr n ail along Exp eck by following rugged coa eriment Big stline - neo ht’s n fi the way. At the sand nec shing floats mark the northea k you can lo st ok, in dunes, for th corner of the shifting sand e grave of N only remain s of this ori els Jensen, the ginal Danis h settler.

ovincia l

Park, N e Joli Wh ls Bight ite pho to

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ACTIVITIES

Diving www.themarinedetective.ca

Z

ip up a dry suit, strap on an oxygen tank and sink below the surface into an incredible marine wonderland. Northern Vancouver Island is world-renowned for its scuba diving.

These cold (around 10°C), clear, current-fed waters are home to an extraordinary diversity of life in jaw-dropping density.

Enjoy stunning colour in great, substantial stretches. In these rich waters, where specimens often exceed the limits given in field guides, you may encounter more than ten species of sea slugs on a single dive. Giant Pacific octopuses and wolf eels might be spotted around their dens. And rockfish may school around you. The rock walls are brightly painted with red soft coral, multi-hued sponges and vibrant anemones and sea stars. It’s an underwater photographer’s dreamscape.

Seemingly endless stretches of coastline provide equally endless dive opportunities. Favourite spots in the area include the concentration of dive sites in the Broughton and Blackfish Archipelagos; the gardens of Zeballos; the expansive walls of Browning Pass near God’s Pocket Marine Provincial Park; and the vibrant life of Quatsino Narrows.

Choose to rent gear (dry suits are a must) and join a local operator on guided trips out to prime locations. Opt for a live-aboard adventure. Or settle into the comfort of a dive resort. Whichever way you get your feet wet in this addictive pastime, you’re sure to want to explore all that this cold-water diver’s paradise has to offer.

Jackie Hildering www.themarinedetective.ca photos

Did You K now

: Browning W all, north of Hardy, has P been recog ort nized as on of the best e cold water dive sites in the world.

Caving S

eeking an accessible yet thrillingly unique new experience?

Northern Vancouver Island boasts the highest concentration of caves in Canada. Water has worked its alchemical magic on the rugged landscape for hundreds of thousands of years. Result: The relatively soft karst (limestone) topography is riddled with networks of subterranean getaways – some suitable for beginners, others only for the most expert cavers (aka “spelunkers” or “potholers”).

Rookies of all ages can explore at Little Huson Caves Regional Park, a 45-minute drive south of Port McNeill, off the Zeballos road. A self-guided tour here includes stops at a natural rock bridge and walk-in, cathedral-style cave.

Everyone can get an easy access look at some of Canada’s finest karst formations from viewing platforms set up along the Alice Lake Loop. It includes stops at the Eternal Fountain with its soothing waterfall, and the Devil’s Bath, an eerie lake that some fanciful souls claim is bottomless (the country’s largest flooded sinkhole is actually 44m deep).

For their part, experienced cavers can explore some of the longest, deepest karst caves in Canada. Several are concentrated in an area rich in limestone called the Quatsino formation. Guides are strongly recommended for the more difficult treks, and regional authorities ask that spelunkers steer clear of any unmapped caves. Information about the sport on Vancouver Island can be found through the Canadian Caver website at www.cancaver.ca.

14 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Little Huson Caves Regional Park Boomer Jerritt photo

Locals K now:

There is mo re Park than th to Little Huson Caves e R a number o main land bridge featu egional f other “beg re. There are inner” cave a crystal clea s to explore r , riverbank, a river with a unique sa n nd Little Hu son Lake is dstone upstream. a short hike

ACTIVITIES

Kayaking E

njoy the maritime environment at your own pace. Paddle into shallow coves, up narrow creeks and across lakes while appreciating a silence broken only by the soft smack of oar against water. Hug the coastline or strike out for a nearby island to picnic on a deserted sandy beach. Since technique and balance are more important than sheer strength, this is one sport that’s increasingly popular with men, women and kids alike.

Strap your own transportation to a roof rack, rent from a local outfitter or sign up for a guided tour in this world-class paddling destination. View intertidal life in the clear, cold waters. Seals, sea lions, orcas and maybe even humpback whales are happy to welcome respectful, low-impact visitors to their aquatic playground. The Lonely Planet travel guide ranked killer whale watching from a kayak in Johnstone Strait #2 in their Top 10 list of Canadian Adventures.

Sea Kayaking with Whales Vancouver Island - Haida Gwaii - Great Bear Rainforest

• No Experience Necessary For Most Tours • Base Camp and Expedition Style Tours • Maximum of 8 Guests with 2 Guides • One to Fifteen Day Adventures • Scheduled Family Departures

www.kingfisher.ca

1-866-546-4347

Guides and fellow kayakers become fast friends on day trips or longer excursions that might include sleepovers in rustic campgrounds, comfortable base camps or luxurious resorts hidden away on remote islands. Weather and sea conditions can change quickly, so be prepared and travel in a group. A number of local kayaking companies offer tours, lessons and rentals.

Experienced, long-distance kayakers tackle the West Coast Vancouver Island North Marine Trail, a newly designated route that traces the coastline from Port Hardy past Cape Scott Provincial Park and all the way to Tofino (www.bcmarinetrails. org). Kayakers heading north to explore the spectacular Great Bear Rainforest sail via BC Ferries from Port Hardy’s Bear Cove terminal.

now: Did You K from

watching Killer whale nstone Strait h Jo in k a kaya ely 2 in the Lon # d te ra s a w f o t lis p 10 Planet’s To ventures. d A n ia d a n a C

Boomer Jerritt photo

www.northislandgazette.com | 15

information

Travelling www.drivebc.ca BC Road Report 1-800-550-4997

A

ll roads on the North Island lead to Hwy 19.

Routes into communities like Sayward, Port Alice and Coal Harbour are modern, paved thoroughfares.

Other wilderness retreats and camping areas are only accessible via gravel logging roads. Visibility along these often very dusty roads can be restricted, so extreme caution is recommended. Remember: Logging trucks always have the right of way.

!dF’˜2˜ F!’amV˜2˜ Fmš!d’ Box 1485, Byng Road Port Hardy Airport Port Hardy, BC V0N 2P0

Ph: 250-949-7121 Fx: 250-949-9864 beckie.book@nationalcar.com victoria duncan nanaimo courtenay/comox port hardy north vancouver www.nationalcarsales.ca www.drivenational.ca

North Coast Trail Shuttle Cape Scott Water Taxi

Ferries and water taxis are vital transportation links.

Sointula (25 minute sailing) and Alert Bay (45 minute sailing) are a short ferry ride from Port McNeill. Port Hardy’s Bear Cove terminal is the gateway for sailings to Prince Rupert and the Central Coast.

Contact www.BCFerries.com, or phone 1-888-223-3779.

Port Hardy to the Cape Scott North Coast Trail

One stop land & water transportation

When travelling by water, Channel 16 is strictly reserved for emergency communications. Weather information is available by calling 250-949-7148, or by tuning into Channels 21B or Wx 1, 2, or 3 on your VHF radio.

Harbour Authorities, marina resorts, and fuel docks monitor Channel 66.

Ph: 250-949-6541 #ELLS s www.northcoasttrailshuttle.com

Discover the North Island

Port Hardy airport has scheduled daily service to Vancouver and beyond. Charter companies in Port McNeill, Alert Bay and Port Hardy offer scenic flights and service to smaller communities. Seaplanes and helicopters can be booked for flightseeing trips while also dropping off passengers at wilderness fishing lodges.

By bus

Daily scheduled bus service connects the North Island with mid and south Island destinations.

Terminals are in Port McNeill (250-956-3304) and Port Hardy (250-949-7532). Local transit links North Island communities and is wheelchair accessible.

For scheduling and fare information, contact Mount Waddington Transit (250-956-3151) www.transitbc.com/regions/mtw.

Monday to Saturday Bus routes serve: Port McNeill Port Hardy Fort Rupert Quatsino/Coal Harbour

Highway 19, North Island Route Boomer Jerritt photo

now: Did You K rs to drive

Zone fares apply.

Call or visit the website for info.

s 2 ½ hou It only take ox Valley to Port m from the Co communities on e McNeill. Th couver Island are an Northern V u might think! yo closer than

Regional District of Mount Waddington 0327

16 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

National Car & Truck

al Free loucp pick

Transit Info 250¡956¡3151 t www.bctransit.com

information

Dining

Andrew Mitchell photo

Linzi Jorgenson photo

Daily Specials served from 11am-11pm

6555 Hardy Bay Rd, Port Hardy 250-949-6922

Scotia Bay Sandra Masales photo

Eat in, take out or drive thru

Something for everyone!

250-949-2345 8950 Granville St. (Thunderbird Mall)

4030 Byng Road, Port Hardy 250-949-7744

Best View in Town s &AMILY 2OOM !VAILABLE s #REATIVE $AILY 3PECIALS s 46 3CREENS FOR ALL YOUR 3PORTS .EEDS 3PECIAL %VENTS

Family friendly restaurant Fresh seasonal seafood Daily & nightly specials

250-949-7811

www.thesporty.com 8700 Hastings St. Port Hardy

Glen Lyon Restaurant & Lounge 250-949-7135

6435 Hardy Bay Rd, Port Hardy

www.northislandgazette.com | 17

facilities

Accommodations See individual communities for more accommodations

Hardy Bay Leslie Driemel photo

Fran’s View B&B 7640 Eagle Cres W, Port Hardy 1-855-230-FRAN (3726) Fax: 250-902-0991 info@fransview.com FransView.com

18 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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facilities | accommodations

TELCO HOUSE B&B Christine & Gord Patterson

250-949-7828 8708 Telco St. Port Hardy telcohouse@telus.net Book online: bbcanada.com/telcohouse Separate entrance into your private suite

B&B Beverly & Jerry Reed 7735 Cedar Place, Port Hardy oceanvue@island.net • www.island.net/~oceanvue

250.949.8302

Sayward Valley Resort Fisherboy Park

MOTEL s CAMPGROUND s GROCERY s LIQUOR Clean Modern Accommodation

#ABINS KITCHENETTES -OTEL 2OOMS &ULL 3ERVICE 'ROCERY 'ENERAL 3TORE ,IQUOR !GENCY -OVIE 2ENTALS &ISHING (UNTING ,ICENSES #OMMERCIAL "USINESS 4RAVELLERS 7ELCOME !MPLE 0ARKING FOR ANY SIZE RIGS WITH TRAILERS OR BOATS

Large Fully Serviced Campground

3PACIOUS TREED PRIVATE SITES 3OME PULL THROUGHS AVAILABLE 4ENT SITES SHOWERS lRE PITS 3OCIAL CENTRE W CABLE TV WIl #LOSE TO lSHING GOLF HIKING 7ITHIN WALKING DISTANCE OF RESTAURANTS PUB "ICYCLE FRIENDLY

Enjoy our oceanfront suites as B&B or B-on-your-own Fully self-contained suites for rent by day, week, month Private Entrances Full Kitchens Laundry Facilities

250.949.7338 smasales@telus.net www.scotiabaybnb.com

Orange Tabby B&B • Private entrance • Private bath • WiFi • Brand new kitchen & common area for vacation rental Your hosts James & Susan Emerson

250.949.8510

www.orangetabbybb.com

At Water’s Edge Bed & Breakfast Hostess: Karen Stewart 2202 Beach Drive Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0

250-956-2912 1-866-956-2912

4 oceanfront guest rooms each room with ensuite & private entrance (US & Can only) Full hot breakfast www.atwatersedge.ca Open year round info@atwatersedge.ca

Phone: 250-282-3204 Toll Free: 1-866-357-0598

www.fisherboypark.com fisherboypark@telus.net

Find us on Google Earth 1546 Sayward Road, Sayward, BC V0P 1R0 Just 1/4 mile off the Hwy 19 junction at Sayward Rd towards Kelsey Bay/Sayward

Convenient stopover for North or South bound Port Hardy Ferry traffic 45 minutes North of Campbell River

www.northislandgazette.com | 19

facilities

Link River Regional Park www.rdmw.bc.ca

250 956-3301

Marble River Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca Port Alice RV & Campground 1201 Marine Drive

250 284-3422

Spruce Bay www.westernforest.com/nature/nvir.html

Georgie Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca Port Hardy RV Resort www.porthardyrvresort.com

250 949-8111

Bere Point www.rdmw.bc.ca

250 956-3301

Harmony Shores Campground www.sointulainfo.ca

250 973-6793

Alder Bay Resort www.AlderBayResort.com

888 956-4117

Telegraph Cove Resort www.TelegraphCoveResort.com

800 200-4665

Telegraph Cove Marina & RV Park www.TelegraphCove.ca

Cape Palmerston www.westernforest.com/nature/nvir.html Raft Cove Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca San Josef Heritage Park

250 286-9422

Botel Park & Trail www.WinterHarbour.ca

250 969-4333

Kwaksistah Campground www.rdmw.bc.ca

250 956-3301 250 969-4333 250 969-4293

250 949-6484

Winter Harbour Marina & RV www.winterharbourlodge.ca

Seven Hills Golf & RV Park

250 949-9818

Stryker Bay RV Park stryker@cablerocket.com

888 839-8022

Wildwoods www.wildwoodscampsite.com

250 949-6753

WOSS / NIMPKISH

866 949-2395

Scotia Bay Resort www.scotiabayresort.com

Broughton Strait Campground

877 835-2683

Cape Scott Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca

Outpost at Winter Harbour www.winterharbour.ca

Quatse River Campground www.QuatseCampground.com

Bonanza Lake www.SitesAndTrailsBC.ca Schoen Lake Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca Vernon Lake 25 km SE of Woss, via logging road

www.broughtonstraitcampsite.com

250 956-3224

Cedar Park Resort & Golfing www. cedarparkresort-rv.com

Woss Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca

250 902-9346

Cluxewe Resort www.cluxewe.com

Atluck Lake Via Atluck Rd, off the main road to Zeballos

250 949-0378

O’Connor Lake www.westernforest.com/nature/nvir.html

ZEBALLOS & ZEBALLOS ROAD

SAYWARD

PORT McNEILL

PORT HARDY

Victoria Lake www.westernforest.com/nature/nvir.html

TELEGRAPH SOINTULA COVE

Campsites also located at Koprino, Rupert Arm, San Josef River & Swan Lake www.westernforest.com/nature/nvir.html

WEST COAST

Nahwitti Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca

250 974-7015

WINTER HARBOUR

ALERT BAY

Alert Bay Campground www.alertbay.ca

PORT ALICE HOLBERG

Camping & Recreation Sites

Anutz Lake On River Main Rd, off the main road to Zeballos Cevallos Campsite www.zeballos.com

250 761-4229

Elk Creek Forest Recreation Site

250 282-0018

Fisherboy Trailer Park 1546 Sayward Road

250 282-3204

Village Centre Campground Info at Village Office

Resolution Campsite 4km from Zeballos, on Fair Harbour Road

250 282-5512

Swan Song In Fair Harbour

Kelsey Bay RV & Campground

250 282-3762 888 882-3772

Zeballos RV Park www.zeballos.com

20 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Fair Harbour Campsite 29km NW of Zeballos, via logging road

250 761-4229

ACTIVITIES

First Nations

E

ight thousand years ago – a millennia after the last ice age and long before the first Egyptian pyramids were erected – Canada’s First Nations shared this wild coastal region with eagles, black bears, orca whales and salmon. After a long period of cultural repression, timeless ancient traditions are again thriving as the Kwakwaka’wakw First Nation preserves and celebrates their culture through art, dance, music, language and a sustainable day-to-day relationship with the natural world.

Alert Bay on Cormorant Island is internationally renowned for its storytelling, summertime dance performances and the potlatch treasures housed inside the mustsee U’mista Cultural Centre. The world’s tallest totem pole stands vigil outside the ‘Namgis Big House. Take a canoe trip or enjoy a salmon barbeque with First Nations guides. And visit an oceanfront graveyard filled with colourful memorial poles (please view respectfully from the road only).

Fort Rupert on the southern outskirts of Port Hardy is home to the Kwakiutl First Nation. This friendly enclave by the sea is known for several public galleries where internationally renowned carvers create magnificent art from chunks of timber. Affordable gifts and prints can be purchased here.

Soak up the sights and experiences on the North Island, then use Port Hardy’s ferry terminal as the jumping off point for further First Nations adventure north on the BC mainland. Visit the villages of Bella Bella and Klemtu before reaching magical Haida Gwaii (the Queen Charlotte Islands) from Prince Rupert.

Did You K now

: In partnersh ip with FirstV program, th oices, a lan e g a Kwak’wala U’mista Cultural Societ uage legacy y has release app in the iT native lang d unes store uage of the to share the Kwak’wala speaking

Nakwakto Rapids Tours Guided by native storytellers and seasoned skippers, visit the world’s fastest navigable tidal rapids and explore coastal wilderness.

Departing from the Art Shack, Seagate Dock Port Hardy

www.nakwaktorapidstours.com 250-230-3574 A GNN Marine Service www.gnnmarine.com

Bruce Winfield photo

www.northislandgazette.com | 21

COMMUNITIES

Alert Bay Home of the Killer Whale www.alertbay.ca Visitor Centre: 250-974-5024

now: Locals K name used

ens is the Gator Gard ents for the Alert Bay d by most resi rk. This name became a P the l a ic Ecolog because of ngst locals rshy area of o m a n w o kn that the ma resemblance the everglades. to s the park ha

22 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

communities | Alert Bay

A

lert Bay is a rare, precious and utterly unique First Nations cultural tourism destination. Said to be the last authentic fishing village on Canada’s West Coast, it’s easily accessible via a scenic 35-minute ferry ride from Port McNeill.

Alert Bay offers visitors museums, art galleries, a bustling marina, friendly locals and cozy accommodations and restaurants set within an unparalleled northern Pacific wilderness environment.

The town centre, with its colorful heritage buildings dating back to 1870, sits on the sheltered western coastline of Cormorant Island. ‘Yalis is home to the ‘Namgis of the Kwakwaka’wakw (Kwak’wala speaking people).

U’mista cultural centre, an internationally-renowned cultural centre and museum, showcases the famed “Potlatch Collection” of ceremonial regalia, confiscated from the Kwakwaka’wakw in 1922 and reclaimed from various institutions and private collections around the world. U’mista is the starting point for a remarkable First Nation experience.

Towering above the traditional Big House in ‘Yalis is the world’s tallest totem pole, carved in two sections by six Kwakwaka’wakw artists (it was originally 53m/173 feet, but the top 10 feet of the pole fell to the ground during a storm in 2007). Watch traditional dance performances by the T’sasal~a Cultural Group. Visit the ‘Namgis Burial Ground to see memorial and other totem poles (please view respectfully from the road only). Join in unique adventures such as canoe trips, salmon barbecues and island tours provided by local guides.

Memorial totem pole at ‘Namgis Burial Boomer Jerritt photo

www.northislandgazette.com | 23

24 || www.vancouverislandnorth.ca www.vancouverislandnorth.ca 24

communities | alert bay

C

ormorant Island has more than 10 km (6 miles) of hiking and biking trails.

The Ecological Park above town features a marshland boardwalk (a favourite spot for bald eagles and other birds) and an easy forest trail network marked with interpretive

signage. Embark on a whale-watching expedition or spot marine wildlife from land.

Steep climbs may make parts of the island a challenge, so it is recommended that visitors bring their vehicles.

Locals K now:

To always ke ep an eye o there could u be whales p t to the ocean because assing thro ugh at any Plus you ca time. n Island with get to Malcolm Island your vehicle from Cormo ra fo attendant u pon boardin r free if you ask the fe nt rry g the ferry fr om Alert Ba y.

SEASMOKE SAIL WITH THE WHALES

Sailing tours 4-5 hours Departs: Alert Bay & Alder Bay campsite Come stay with us at Alert Bay Accommodations www.alertbayaccommodations.com

SEASMOKE Whale Watching

1-800-668-ORCA (6722) 250-974-5225

www.seasmokewhalewatching.com

Alert Bay Accommodations

www.alertbayaccommodations.com

1-800-668-6722 250-974-5225

www.northislandgazette.com | 25

communities

Coal Harbour

R

oadtrips on the North Island are a treat for those who relish leisurely, spontaneous explorations that deliver memorable vistas, dozens of digital snapshots and many surprising rewards.

One such detour off the highway just south of Port Hardy leads to Coal Harbour, a marine hub providing access to the fertile fishing grounds of Quatsino Sound.

Over the last century Coal Harbour has been a mining town, military base and whaling station. Today it’s the perfect launch point for fishing charters, boaters, kayakers and campers heading into the scenic coastal waters and old-growth forests of Vancouver Island North’s wilderness areas. Explore Coal Harbour itself to learn the history and meet some of the locals, among whom is a growing community of artisans whose creativity is celebrated at a music and arts festival here each spring.

26 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Step back in time and take a look into the history of Coal Harbour. There is a small space at the Aircab hangar, near the marina, that is filled with a private collection of local artifacts from the town’s logging and whaling periods as well as its time during the Second World War as a Royal Canadian Air Force base. On the grounds is the mammoth 6m/20 ft jawbone of a blue whale – evidence that Canada’s last whaling station operated here until the mid-1960’s.

Fishing and crabbing tours are available locally. Boaters get provisions, coffee and sandwiches at the Whale’s Reach community store. Quatsino First Nations operate a marina in Coal Harbour that has serviced moorage, public washrooms, showers and a laundromat.

www.TidesandTales.com photo

ACTIVITIES | FISHING

communities

Quatsino www.quatsino.org

I

n 1894 Norwegian colonists arrived in Quatsino Sound aboard the steamship Mischief with shared dreams of a prosperous life in this remote wilderness. Today change still comes slowly here, and the fact that the tiny hamlet of Quatsino is accessible only by water and air keeps it that way. Residents and visitors alike experience a breath of fresh air as they step back to a simpler way of life.

Quatsino Elementary School, built in 1933, is at the core of the community overlooking the Government Wharf. A community organic garden now shares this site, providing fresh produce during the harvest season.

Nestled nearby is historic St. Olaf’s Anglican Church. Dating back to 1897, it is one of the oldest buildings still in use on Northern Vancouver Island. The Quatsino Museum & Archives across from the government dock provides free high-speed internet service and serves light snacks in addition to offering a glimpse at Quatsino’s diverse 117-year history.

With just 8 km of gravel road connecting homes, fishing lodges and retreats that stretch single file along the shoreline, Quatsino enjoys its unique solitude amidst the natural beauty of the Sound.

www.northislandgazette.com | 27

communities

Holberg & Winter Harbour E

choes and evidence of boom times in a classic west-coast rainforest environment can be found on journeys to what was once the site of the world’s largest floating logging camp.

Holberg is an hour’s drive northwest of Port Hardy and the last stop before Cape Scott Provincial Park. The gravel logging road that takes you there is part of the fun, especially when stopping at the Shoe Tree – started as a joke by a local resident and now a Vancouver Island legend thanks to the hundreds of boots, sandals and shoes on its trunk and slung across its branches.

The village is worth a long linger, and not strictly to enjoy the pub food and welcoming ambience at the renowned Scarlet Ibis.

Pick up provisions for the hiking, surfing or kayaking adventures ahead. And visit Ronning’s Garden, a circa 1910 homestead on the San Josef Wagon Road whose vast and exotic grounds sit in the middle of the rainforest. This unique garden, started by pioneering settler Bernt Ronning, complete with monkey puzzle trees and fascinating plants from around the world, almost disappeared when he left his homestead, but has now been restored.

Outdoor adventure is top priority for most visitors. Cape Scott Provincial Park is an unspoiled wonderland with its deserted beaches, sculpted coastline and marathon hiking trails. Raft Cove Provincial Park attracts daytrippers and campers who set up their tents on the sandy beach. And please keep it quiet, but surfers who prize seclusion and best-kept-secret beachfronts have rediscovered Raft Cove’s big waves.

ATTENTION HIKERS!

Last stop going in…

First stop coming out for Cape Scott Provincial Park

From Holberg, the gravel road ends at Winter Harbour. This tiny and historic fishing village offers safe year-round anchorage, a seaside boardwalk and access to oceanfront hikes along Botel Park Trail and out to the prime beachcombing at Grant Bay. Expect to head home with harbour photos of the playful sea otters that pop their curious heads above water and float on their backs. Kayakers will also put their waterproof digital cameras to good use when exploring the many paddling adventures available in Quatsino Sound via a Winter Harbour launch.

Did You K now:

Good food, good friends & good times for the entire family

Some of th e la in BC are fo rgest and oldest Mon ke un This “secre d at Ronning’s Garden y Puzzle trees t garden” h near Holber as cuttings fro m around th grown from seeds an g. d e world tha the early 19 t were plan 00’s. ted in

Open Tues - Sats PM PM 3UN -ON s PM PM

Downtown Holberg 250-288-3386 28 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Ronnings Garden, near Holberg Boomer Jerritt photo

Village of Port Alice PORT ALICE IS A FULL SERVICE COMMUNITY www.portalice.ca s !CCOMMODATIONS AND #AMPGROUND s 2ESTAURANTS AND 'ROCERIES s "OAT ,AUNCH AND &UEL 3ERVICES s 'AS 3TATION AND &ISHING 4ACKLE s "ANK AND !4s 0OST /FlCE AND ,IQUOR 3TORE s 4OURISM #ENTRE s &ISHING AND 3IGHTSEEING #HARTER 3ERVICES s (EALTH #ENTRE AND ,IBRARY s &REE 3ANI $UMP s #LOSE TO ALL THE BEST LAKES AND RECREATION SITES photos by Darrell McIntosh ! SCENIC DRIVE ALONG (IGHWAY THE ULTIMATE RIDE FOR THE MOTORCYCLE ENTHUSIAST LEADS TO THE BEAUTIFUL WEST COAST COMMUNITY OF 0ORT !LICE )T S THE 'ATEWAY TO THE 7ILD 7EST #OAST WITH ACCESS VIA LOGGING ROAD OR BOAT TO 3IDE "AY 'OODING #OVE

(ARVEY #OVE "ROOKS 0ENINSULA 7INTER (ARBOUR AND +LASKINO )NLET 0ORT !LICE BOASTS A LONG LIST OF EXCELLENT OUTDOOR RECREATION OPPORTUNITIES IN AND AROUND THE COMMUNITY INCLUDING lSHING

BOATING GOLlNG HIKING MOUNTAIN BIKING AND CAMPING 4HE .EROUTSOS )NLET PART OF 1UATSINO 3OUND OFFERS PRIME SALTWATER lSHING AND PRESENTS MANY SHELTERED INLETS AND BAYS WHICH ARE PERFECT FOR KAYAKING OR DIVING ! SHORT DISTANCE FROM THE 6ILLAGE 6ICTORIA ,AKE AND !LICE ,AKE ARE AMONG THE MANY POSSIBILITIES FOR FRESHWATER lSHING

CAMPING AND OUTDOOR RECREATION 4HE 0ORT !LICE 3EAWALK IS A BEAUTIFUL WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE TRAIL LEADING TO A LOVELY PICNIC SPOT AND ACCESS TO 7ALK OUT )SLAND %XPLORERS LOVE THE NEARBY $EVIL S "ATH $ISAPPEARING 2IVER AND %TERNAL &OUNTAIN WHICH ARE HOME TO UNIQUE LIMESTONE FORMATIONS PART OF A KARST SYSTEM THAT HONEYCOMBS THE 6ANCOUVER )SLAND -OUNTAIN BIKERS AND HIKERS CAN EXPERIENCE THE 2UMBLE -OUNTAIN "IKE 4RAIL OFFERING BEGINNER AND ADVANCED DOWNHILL AND CROSS COUNTRY TRAILS JUST BEHIND THE VILLAGE 'OLFERS TEE OFF AT THE 0ORT !LICE 'OLF AND #OUNTRY #LUB A CHALLENGING NINE HOLE PAR THREE COURSE CARVED OUT OF THE MOUNTAINSIDE

Come and see us, you’ll be glad you did!

Gateway to the Wild West Coast 250-284-3391

www.portalice.ca

info@portalice.ca www.northislandgazette.com | 29

communities

Port Alice Gateway to the Wild and Wonderful West Coast www.PortAlice.ca 250-284-3391

now: Locals K

os Inlet is a The Nerouts aradise with six p g sea scuba divin d abundant n a s rk a st gill sh o m e mong th life that is a e world. th colourful in

Inlet Haven B&B

• totally private entrances • all rooms nonsmoking • wireless Internet • pets & children welcome Jim & Bonnie Overland

30 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Port Alice, Port Po Ali A lice c , BC ce C www.inlethaven.com jimbon@cablerocket.com

250-284-3216

communities | port alice

D

o-it-yourself adventurers find peace, lovely west-coast scenery and crowd-free access to the great outdoors in Port Alice. Perched on a pretty hillside facing the Neroutsos Inlet, this thriving community is the most southerly access point to Quatsino Sound and invites kayakers, scuba divers and charter fishing crews bound for the open Pacific.

The town is a base camp for expeditions via boat or logging road to such remote getaways as Side Bay, Gooding Cove, Harvey Cove, Brooks Peninsula and Klaskino Inlet. Public launching facilities in town offer easy ocean access for travelers towing their own boats. Or get out on the water with a charter fishing or wildlife-viewing guide.

Wilderness hiking is at its best along the Marble River Trail leading to Bear Falls. Marble River Park and campsite are located along scenic Hwy 30 to Port Alice.

Geology buffs are fascinated by such spectacular rock formations as Devil’s Bath and the Eternal Fountain, part of the vast stretches of limestone that make Vancouver Island North prime spelunking (caving) country. Easy access viewing platforms along the newly developed Alice Lake Loop Recreational Corridor allow drivers and hikers to get a good look at these geological wonders.

Darrell McIntosh photo

The Tourism & Heritage Center offers information for travelers, a small gift shop stocked with souvenirs made by local artisans, and a well-documented look into Port Alice’s past. The town’s history dates back to the opening of a pulp mill circa World War I. It became the province’s first instant municipality in 1965 when the town was relocated to its present site, and is today home to many of the workers at Nueces Specialty Cellulose Pulp Mill, one of the North Island’s leading employers.

Also not far from town are the Link River and Spruce Bay campgrounds at Victoria and Alice Lakes, both favourite spots for freshwater fishing and outdoor recreation.

Cyclists of all skill levels tackle the trails of the Rumble Fest mountain bike race. Beginners and experienced riders alike gather in early June for the annual (since 1994) competition. The popular weekend event features challenging races, including one for kids, a salmon barbeque and the Funky Bike Olympics.

Golfers head for the Port Alice Golf and Country Club, a challenging nine-hole course set against glorious mountain vistas; it once earned recognition from Ripley’s Believe It Or Not! as the only course in the world requiring golfers to play around or over an Anglican church (which has since been relocated).

Visitors to Port Alice will find beautiful and modern B&B’s, vacation rental homes, a hotel, and a full-service campground. Services in town include a gas station, grocery, and liquor stores, a bank, and a variety of restaurants.

Enjoy strolling the seawall, a wheelchairaccessible pathway that follows the community’s coastline. Have a picnic, hike the short distance to Walk-out Island when the tide is low, and don’t forget your binoculars!

Hundreds of species of birds visit Neroutsos Inlet throughout the year. These same waters are home to orca, humpback, and grey whales, California and Stellar sea lions, and migrating salmon.

Clearly Port Alice meets the expectations of all kinds of visitors.

www.northislandgazette.com | 31

communities | port hardy

C

reature comforts, shopping and dining, cooperative and First Nations art galleries, plenty of accommodation options, ancient archeological finds, and easy access to the great outdoors. It’s all available in Vancouver Island North’s largest centre (population: 4,000), a friendly town with developing cultural and eco-tourism industries that sits pretty at the very edge of the coastal wilderness.

BC Ferries’ famous “Inside Passage” long-haul sailing to Prince Rupert on the mainland arrives and departs from nearby Bear Cove, as do summer-only sailings on the “Discovery Coast” route.

The Inside Passage journey was recently rated as one of the most beautiful ferry trips in the world by the discerning editors of Travel+Leisure magazine. Port Hardy is also the main departure point for water taxis and land shuttles destined for Cape Scott Provincial Park’s magnificent North Coast Trail.

“Live the Adventure” is Port Hardy’s motto, and many ferry passengers wisely book rooms and explore this remote yet civilized part of the world for a few fascinating days before or after their sailings. Land-based adventurers discover hiking, caving and wildlife such as bald eagles and black bears, the latter frequently seen grazing in plain sight alongside the highway. Wildlifewatching daytrips depart from a bustling town marina packed with fishing vessels and visiting pleasure craft. Orcas, humpbacks and dolphins frolic offshore in Queen Charlotte Strait while longer treks out to sea head to grizzly bear country in Smith and Knight Inlets along the mainland coast.

Also nearby is the big-wave surfing at Raft Cove, world-class scuba diving at God’s Pocket Provincial Marine Park, and freshwater fishing in local lakes and river systems. Coal Harbour, just 20 minutes away by car, provides boaters and kayakers with a convenient launch point for trips to the wild west coast via Quatsino Sound. A bumpy ride of less than an hour past the village of Holberg leads to the windswept, see-forever beaches of Cape Scott Provincial Park. First Nations guides share traditional stories and take marine adventurers to run the world’s fastest navigable tidal rapids. Amateur spelunkers, meanwhile, can get a taste of an eerie subterranean world at Devil’s Bath, one geological wonder in a series of them included in the Alice Lake Loop tour.

Another pleasurable option is to simply hang out in Port Hardy and relish the myriad of diversions found within town limits. Picnic with the family on stretches of sand at Storey’s Beach. Shop for locally produced art, crafts, and seafood (the town is famous for its smoked and candied salmon). Snap pictures of the chainsaw carvings at Carrot Park. Thrill to stock car and motocross races in the summer. Step back into the past at the Port Hardy Museum and Archives. Check out the work of local artists at the cooperative art gallery. Or take a pleasant, forest-shaded riverside stroll from the marina to the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre, an interpretive exhibition space and hatchery rolled into one modern facility.

ce i l A t r Po

west coast ss. d il w e h t to ay ew t ga r ne You area of wilder set in the vast

tiful village, hes of the wild Visit this beau ote sandy beac m re e th to teway This is the ga west coast.

r www.po

a talice.c

Don’t leave town without it!

Budget Car & Truck Rental

The great thing about having a Save-onMore card is that its benefits travel with you. But don’t worry if you don’t have a card. Just sign up in store and start taking advantage of the benefits right away.

4850 Byng Rd & at the Airport Reservations & Info call

250-949-6442

Thunderbird Mall Port Hardy 250-949-6455 Hours: 8am-9pm everyday

GREAT RATES * GREAT SERVICE www.bcbudget.com

www.overwaitea.com

B.C.Õs very own food people.

Market Street, Port Hardy Boomer Jerritt photo

www.northislandgazette.com | 1

communities | port hardy

C

reature comforts, shopping and dining, cooperative and First Nations art galleries, plenty of accommodation options, ancient archeological finds, and easy access to the great outdoors. It’s all available in Vancouver Island North’s largest centre (population: 4,000), a friendly town with developing cultural and eco-tourism industries that sits pretty at the very edge of the coastal wilderness.

BC Ferries’ famous “Inside Passage” long-haul sailing to Prince Rupert on the mainland arrives and departs from nearby Bear Cove, as do summer-only sailings on the “Discovery Coast” route.

The Inside Passage journey was recently rated as one of the most beautiful ferry trips in the world by the discerning editors of Travel+Leisure magazine. Port Hardy is also the main departure point for water taxis and land shuttles destined for Cape Scott Provincial Park’s magnificent North Coast Trail.

“Live the Adventure” is Port Hardy’s motto, and many ferry passengers wisely book rooms and explore this remote yet civilized part of the world for a few fascinating days before or after their sailings. Land-based adventurers discover hiking, caving and wildlife such as bald eagles and black bears, the latter frequently seen grazing in plain sight alongside the highway. Wildlifewatching daytrips depart from a bustling town marina packed with fishing vessels and visiting pleasure craft. Orcas, humpbacks and dolphins frolic offshore in Queen Charlotte Strait while longer treks out to sea head to grizzly bear country in Smith and Knight Inlets along the mainland coast.

Also nearby is the big-wave surfing at Raft Cove, world-class scuba diving at God’s Pocket Provincial Marine Park, and freshwater fishing in local lakes and river systems. Coal Harbour, just 20 minutes away by car, provides boaters and kayakers with a convenient launch point for trips to the wild west coast via Quatsino Sound. A bumpy ride of less than an hour past the village of Holberg leads to the windswept, see-forever beaches of Cape Scott Provincial Park. First Nations guides share traditional stories and take marine adventurers to run the world’s fastest navigable tidal rapids. Amateur spelunkers, meanwhile, can get a taste of an eerie subterranean world at Devil’s Bath, one geological wonder in a series of them included in the Alice Lake Loop tour.

Another pleasurable option is to simply hang out in Port Hardy and relish the myriad of diversions found within town limits. Picnic with the family on stretches of sand at Storey’s Beach. Shop for locally produced art, crafts, and seafood (the town is famous for its smoked and candied salmon). Snap pictures of the chainsaw carvings at Carrot Park. Thrill to stock car and motocross races in the summer. Step back into the past at the Port Hardy Museum and Archives. Check out the work of local artists at the cooperative art gallery. Or take a pleasant, forest-shaded riverside stroll from the marina to the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre, an interpretive exhibition space and hatchery rolled into one modern facility.

ce i l A t r Po

west coast ss. d il w e h t to ay ew t ga r ne You area of wilder set in the vast

tiful village, hes of the wild Visit this beau ote sandy beac m re e th to teway This is the ga west coast.

r www.po

a talice.c

Don’t leave town without it!

Budget Car & Truck Rental

The great thing about having a Save-onMore card is that its benefits travel with you. But don’t worry if you don’t have a card. Just sign up in store and start taking advantage of the benefits right away.

4850 Byng Rd & at the Airport Reservations & Info call

250-949-6442

Thunderbird Mall Port Hardy 250-949-6455 Hours: 8am-9pm everyday

GREAT RATES * GREAT SERVICE www.bcbudget.com

www.overwaitea.com

B.C.Õs very own food people.

Market Street, Port Hardy Boomer Jerritt photo

www.northislandgazette.com | 1

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www.northislandgazette.com | 35

info | maps

Sayward page 54-55

Sointula page 56-57

36 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

info | maps

Alert Bay page 22-25

Coal Harbour page 26

Quatsino page 27

www.northislandgazette.com | 37

communities

Port Hardy www.PortHardy.travel Visitor Centre: 1-866-427-3901

38 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

C

reature comforts, shopping and dining, cooperative and First Nations art galleries, plenty of accommodation options, ancient archeological finds, and easy access to the great outdoors.

It’s all available in Vancouver Island North’s largest centre (population: 4,000), a friendly town with developing cultural and eco-tourism industries that sits pretty at the very edge of the coastal wilderness.

BC Ferries’ famous “Inside Passage” long-haul sailing to Prince Rupert on the mainland arrives and departs from nearby Bear Cove, as do summer-only sailings on the “Discovery Coast” route.

The Inside Passage journey was recently rated as one of the most beautiful ferry trips in the world by the discerning editors of Travel+Leisure magazine. Port Hardy is also the main departure point for water taxis and land shuttles destined for Cape Scott Provincial Park’s magnificent North Coast Trail.

“Live the Adventure” is Port Hardy’s motto, and many ferry passengers wisely book rooms and explore this remote yet civilized part of the world for a few fascinating days before or after their sailings. Land-based adventurers discover hiking, caving and wildlife such as bald eagles and black bears, the latter frequently seen grazing in plain sight alongside the highway. Wildlife-watching daytrips depart from a bustling town marina packed with fishing vessels and visiting pleasure craft. Orcas, humpbacks and dolphins frolic offshore in Queen Charlotte Strait while longer treks out to sea head to grizzly bear country in Smith and Knight Inlets along the mainland coast.

Also nearby is the big-wave surfing at Raft Cove, world-class scuba diving at God’s Pocket Provincial Marine Park, and freshwater fishing in local lakes and river systems. Coal Harbour, just 20 minutes away by car, provides boaters and kayakers with a convenient launch point for trips to the wild west coast via Quatsino Sound. A bumpy ride of less than an hour past the village of Holberg leads to the windswept, see-forever beaches of Cape Scott Provincial Park. First Nations guides share traditional stories and take marine adventurers to run the world’s fastest navigable tidal rapids. Amateur spelunkers, meanwhile, can get a taste of an eerie subterranean world at Devil’s Bath, one geological wonder in a series of them included in the Alice Lake Loop tour.

communities | port hardy Another pleasurable option is to simply hang out in Port Hardy and relish the myriad of diversions found within town limits. Picnic with the family on stretches of sand at Storey’s Beach. Shop for locally produced art, crafts, and seafood (the town is famous for its smoked and candied salmon). Snap pictures of the chainsaw carvings at Carrot Park. Thrill to stock car and motocross races in the summer. Step back into the past at the Port Hardy Museum and Archives. Check out the work of local artists at the cooperative art gallery. Or take a pleasant, forest-shaded riverside stroll from the marina to the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre, an interpretive exhibition space and hatchery rolled into one modern facility.

Totem poles dotted throughout Port Hardy are a tribute to the people who have lived off the resources of land and sea here for over 8,000 years. Today’s Kwakiutl First Nation reside in Fort Rupert, a few minutes south of town with its colourful murals, totems, cemetery, and white shell beach. Internationally renowned carvers demonstrate their skills, crack jokes and share stories at the Copper Maker Gallery, a favourite stop for art collectors.

The town’s relatively recent history is saluted annually during FILOMI Days on the third weekend in July. FILOMI stands for ‘fishing-logging-mining,’ and its namesake festival has become Port Hardy’s signature summer event. The festivities include a salmon derby, boat-building contest, street hockey and volleyball tournaments, the Tri-Port Dragon Boat Society Regatta, a parade, and spectacular fireworks display. Summer gets underway in June with Oceans Day. In the fall, grinning jack-o’-lanterns and a haunted house highlight family friendly Halloween fun during the Pumpkin Patch Walk. And Christmas is heralded with a Santa Claus parade in early December.

Locals K now:

Storey’s Bea ch is a perfe Conditions here are typ ct spot to learn to kaya ic k. can stick cl ose to the sa ally calm and beginner s ndy shore fo r comfort.

www.northislandgazette.com | 39

Port Hardy & District Chamber of Commerce Tel: 1-866-427-3901 250-949-7622 www.ph-chamber.bc.ca 40 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

COME TO PORT HARDY‌

LIVE THE ADVENTURE

Tourism Port Hardy www.porthardy.travel www.northislandgazette.com | 41

QUATSE RIVER

Regional Park & Campground Port Hardy, BC

The campground is situated within a richly forested regional park containing trees hundreds of years old, with the wild flora and fauna found in old growth forests.

All campsites are conveniently located close to firewood, washrooms, and a resident manager.

The Quatse River Campground is operated by the Northern Vancouver Island Salmon Enhancement Association. Proceeds generated in the campground support Salmon Enhancement activities on Northern Vancouver Island. s TENTING OR 26 SITES s POWER AMP AND WATER HOOKUPS s SANI DUMP s FREE HOT SHOWERS s COIN LAUNDRY s lREWOOD hBY DONATIONv s HIKING AND lSHING TRAILS s WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE s LEASHED PETS WELCOME s 7)&) )NTERNET s RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED Your hosts: Ken and Debra Hine For more information and reservations: 4EL 4OLL &REE %MAIL QUATSECAMPGROUND GMAIL COM We are located at 8400 Byng Road, Port Hardy, BC, next to the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre. www.quatsecampground.com www.facebook.com/quatsecampground

Come as guests‌Leave as friends!

42 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

! n i p a e L

to Salmon’s World

Come visit the Salmon Centre!

Explore our unique habitat displays and get up close and personal with salmon. See salmon predators and prey and find out who’s eating who in the ecosystem.

A visit to the Salmon Centre is a fun and educational experience for all ages.

Find out what the staff at the Salmon Centre are doing to help maintain healthy salmon stocks.

The Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre is operated by the Northern Vancouver Island Salmon Enhancement Association.

All proceeds support Salmon Enhancement activities on Northern Vancouver Island.

uatse Salmon Stewardship Centre Next to the Quatse River Campground, just minutes from the airport, ferry or downtown.

8400 Byng Road, Port Hardy Call 250-902-0336 or 250-949-9022 Open May through September, Wednesday to Sunday 10 am to 5 pm

communities | port hardy

H

iking is one of Port Hardy’s most popular pastimes, and there are trails galore for all fitness levels in town and within a short drive. The newest is the Fort Rupert Trail, which follows an ancient First Nations path from Bear Cove Road to Storey’s Beach; the hour-long one-way ramble winds through the forest, across a boardwalk and alongside a sparkling blue lake. Far more rugged and challenging is the 11 km out-and-back Tex Lyon Trail, which can be accessed from Storey’s Beach. The Marble River Trail off the road to Port Alice offers an easy hike out to salmon-spawning viewing areas at Bear Falls. The Nahwitti Trail near Holberg is another gentle route through old-growth giants to Nahwitti Lake. And get a teaser of the marathon hiking possibilities in Cape Scott Provincial Park by driving west past the Shoe Tree to the park’s trailhead and walking 2.5 km out to breathtaking San Josef Bay.

Kari Watkins photo

The staff at the Visitor Centre are happy to assist with information on local attractions and activities. It’s open year-round in the heart of town on Market Street. Make your choice here from a diverse slate of accommodations that includes hotels, B&Bs, cabins, cottages, hostels and campgrounds.

Karin Moeller

Managing Broker/Owner Bus: ( 250) 949-0145 Fax: (250) 949-9872 karin8@telus.net

At the northern tip of Vancouver Island, our heritage building has a commanding view of Hardy Bay and the mainland mountains beyond. The road stops here! Lots of trees, water, incredible mountain and ocean views, fantastic fishing, nature tours galore, and all the necessities of life.

L

et us package your experience of a lifetime!

We arrange sport ďŹ shing trips!

%FMVYF GBDJMJUJFT Â… PDFBO WJFX SPPNT Â… TMJQ NBSJOB XJUI QPXFS XBUFS Â… 'VFM EPDL QSPQBOF Â… 4IPXFST MBVOESZ Â… UPO 5SBWFMJGU Â… 'VMM TFSWJDF XPSLZBSE Â… $PNQMFUF NBSJOF TUPSF Â… .FFUJOH SPPN Â… 2VBSUFSEFDL 1VC 3FTUBVSBOU Â… -JRVPS TUPSF )BSEZ #BZ 3E 1PSU )BSEZ #$ Â… XXX RVBSUFSEFDLSFTPSU OFU

7190A Market Street, Port Hardy

www.hardyrealty.ca hardyltd@telus.net

250-949-7231 www.northislandgazette.com | 43

7070 Market Street Port Hardy

Smyth’s

250-949-7155

Open 7 days a week to serve you

Your one stop fishing store!

UĂŠ >Â“ÂŤÂˆÂ˜} UĂŠ ÂˆĂƒÂ…ÂˆÂ˜} UĂŠ ÂœĂ•ĂƒiĂœ>Ă€iĂƒ

Glen Lyon Inn & Suites

UĂŠ >Ă€`Ăœ>Ă€i UĂŠEʓÕVÂ…ĂŠ “ÕVÂ…ĂŠÂ“ÂœĂ€it Oceanside RV Parking Fully serviced sites Suite rentals

250.949.6484

Fax: 250.949.8486 NBTBMFT!UFMVT OFU t XXX TDPUJBCBZSFTPSU DPN

North Coast Trail Shuttle Cape Scott Water Taxi Port Hardy to the Cape Scott North Coast Trail

44 deluxe rooms with spectacular ocean views Business suites & family rooms Wireless Internet free Photocopying & faxing available Small fitness & meeting room Pub & restaurant on premises Close to town & ferry terminal

250-949-7115 One stop land & water transportation The Cape Scott North Coast Trail Shuttle May 15-Sept.15 Ph: 250-949-6541 #ELLS s www.northcoasttrailshuttle.com

44 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

1-877-949-7115 (US & Canada) Fax: 250-949-7415 6435 Hardy Bay Road, Box 103 Port Hardy V0N 2P0 www.glenlyoninn.com info@glenlyoninn.com

PORT HARDY RV RESORT & CAMPGROUND ĂŵƉŝŶŐ ŽŶ EŽƌƚŚĞƌŶ sĂŶĐŽƵǀĞƌ /ƐůĂŶĚ

ƌĞĂƚŚƚĂŬŝŶŐ ƐƚƵĂƌLJ ĂŶĚ ZŝǀĞƌƐŝĚĞ sŝĞǁƐ Many easy pull through sites ĞĂƵƟĨƵůůLJ ƚƌĞĞĚ ƚĞŶƟŶŐ ĂƌĞĂ &ƌĞĞ ŚŽƚ ƐŚŽǁĞƌƐ ĂŶĚ ĮƌĞǁŽŽĚ >ĂƵŶĚƌLJ ĨĂĐŝůŝƟĞƐ &ŝǀĞ ŵŝŶƵƚĞƐ ĨƌŽŵ &ĞƌƌŝĞƐ ůĞĂŶ͕ ƐĂĨĞ Θ ĨĂŵŝůLJ ĨƌŝĞŶĚůLJ ĞŶǀŝƌŽŶŵĞŶƚ

www.porthardyrvresort.com Toll Free: 1-855-949-8118 ϴϬϴϬ 'ŽŽĚƐƉĞĞĚ ZŽĂĚ͕ WŽƌƚ ,ĂƌĚLJ͕ ƌŝƟƐŚ ŽůƵŵďŝĂ

5IF )PUFM XJUI )FBSU Centrally located in downtown Port Hardy Free wireless high speed Internet in rooms Microwave, fridge, coffeemaker & cable TV Free extended & oversize vehicle parking Pet friendly Banquet & meeting rooms

Book your adventure with us: Fishing Charters Land & Sea Tours Hiking Whale Watching Kayaking

2 blocks from the ocean

For reservations call 250-949-8899 or email info@providenceplace.ca www.northislandgazette.com | 45

NORTH SHORE INN ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Toudai Sushi

Panoramic ocean view from the rooms.

Ferry shuttle available through North Island Transportation.

Limited number of pet-friendly rooms available.

Senior/corporate discount rates available off the peak season.

Wireless Internet in the building.

Some triple rooms available.

All rooms are accessible by stairs only.

www.northshoreinnph.com email: northshoreinn.ph@gmail.com 250-949-8500 ~ 1-877-949-8516 7370 Market Street, Port Hardy All food is

MSG FREE ~ Tempura ~ Rolls ~ Donburi

Menu Choices ~ Teriyaki ~ Maki ~ Nigiri

at the North Shore Inn “I’ll travel the island for you” 250-949-8755

~ Sashimi ~ Bento Homemade Sauces

Serving the

North Island For all your real estate needs… call Merrilee www.merrileetognela.com www.coastrealty.com mtognela@coastrealty.com

250-230-5220

4200 Island Highway North, Nanaimo, BC V9T 1W6 Office Phone: 250-758-7653 1-800-779-4966 46 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Merrilee Tognela

communtities | port hardy

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Marine Electronics & Supplies Sales & Service

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250.949.6753 250.949.7454

www.wildwoodscampsite.com pjranger@telus.net

Located on Bear Cove Road • Box 801, Port Hardy, BC

6710 Hardy Bay Rd, Port Hardy ph: 250-949-8022 • fax: 250-949-8077 1-888-839-8022 stryker@cablerocket.com

www.northislandgazette.com | 47

ACTIVITIES

Port McNeill Gateway to the Broughton Archipelago www.portmcneill.net Visitor Centre: 1-888-956-3131

48 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

communities | port mcneill

T

his friendly, unpretentious and welcoming ecotourism capital is two hours north of Campbell River and four hours drive from BC Ferries terminals in Nanaimo. That’s not far given that the town provides direct access to the pristine channels, mazy waterways and sheltered moorages of the world-renowned Broughton Archipelago Provincial Marine Park. Better still, its central location on Vancouver Island’s northeast coastline makes it a great spot for spontaneous and unplanned jaunts around the region as a whole, especially with Alert Bay and Sointula short sails away from Port McNeill’s own BC Ferries dock.

Many visitors settle in for multi-night stays by booking local accommodations, pitching tents or parking RVs, then checking out the town’s amenities. Learn about the area’s ancient and contemporary history at the Port McNeill Heritage Museum, which houses a rich collection of artifacts inside a rustic log building.

Catch a movie or concert at the Gate House Theatre (check for schedule). Play a round or two with an ocean view at the parthree golf course. Dine on fresh-caught salmon, home-baked pie or a range of ethnic fare – Greek, Mexican, Italian and Chinese included. Or take photos of friends and loved ones dwarfed by the world’s largest Sitka Spruce burl. (A burl is the unique outgrowth of wood that grows from the trunks of big trees).

One favourite destination in town is the seawall and newly expanded harbour area. Drink in the ocean views here along with a cup of barista-prepared coffee as bald eagles circle above a busy waterfront dotted with pleasure craft, fishing boats and float planes. The marina is especially busy from May to September as boaters pull in to refuel and pick up provisions before heading back out into one of the planet’s most beautiful and pristine maritime environments.

Locals K now:

Port McNei ll is activities wh a great home base fo et r makes it co her by land or sea. Its all North Island nvenient fo central loca r tio all tourist ex adventures. periences a n nd

Port McNeill Harbour Doug Bradshaw photo

www.northislandgazette.com | 49

PORT M NEILL C

Gateway to the Broughton Archipelago

DISCOVER

EXPERIENCE

Abundant Wildlife Ocean Vistas Majestic Mountains

Whale Watching Kayaking World Class Fishing

Port McNeill Visitor Centre 1-888-956-3131 1594 Beach Drive, Box 129 Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0 email: pmccc@island.net www.portmcneill.net

50 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Port McNeill Museum

250-956-9898 351 Shelley Crescent Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0

T

he postcard Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago, with dozens of small, undeveloped islands, is world-renowned for whale watching, sea kayaking and scuba diving. Each of these pastimes is expertly served by an array of guides, suppliers and rental operations – all of them providing ready access to the region’s spectacular offshore wildlife. The area is famed for killer whales, humpback whales, Pacific white-sided dolphins, Steller sea lions, minke whales, harbour seals, Dall’s porpoise and a who’s who of seabirds. Local guides offer everything from daytrips to week-long adventures. There’s also a host of fishing charter operations here whose expertise includes finding halibut and the five Pacific salmon species - chinook, sockeye, pink, chum and coho. Port McNeill truly is where the wild things are!

Northern Gulf Island explorers take BC Ferries sailings to nearby Alert Bay and Sointula, two wonderful destinations with plenty of heritage, history and natural splendor of their own. Back on terra firma in Port McNeill, hikers enjoy striding along the Schoolhouse Creek trail next to a salmon enhancement stream that runs through town.

The town’s population swells in August for the annual OrcaFest, a weekend bonanza featuring an open-air market, parade, and slo-pitch baseball tournament. Drag-racing enthusiasts take in the heart-pounding action at the Rumble on the Runway series in the summer. And those who want to get away from it all can strap in for flightseeing excursions via plane or helicopter. The whirlybirds can also do drop-off and pick-up runs to the region’s remote and wild backcountry.

Harbour Sushi ~ Cold Beer & Wine ~ Pub ~ Greyhound Service ~ Fitness Centre ~ Taxi

Reservations & Information

Toll Free: 1-855-956-3304 1703 Broughton Blvd, Port McNeill 0H s &AX WWW DALEWOODINN COM s STAY DALEWOODINN COM

Complete Shopping Port McNeill 'ROCERIES s 0RODUCE s -EAT $AIRY s $ELI s "AKERY (UGE 3ELECTION s &RIENDLY 3TAFF /PEN DAILY AM PM

www.northislandgazette.com | 51

Did You K now

: Port McNei ll Rotary Clu b meets every W noon at the ednesday at 12 H 1817 Camp aida Way Inn bell Way.

Your Neighbourhood Grocer President’s Choice

We deliver!

250-956-2881 #2-311 Hemlock St. Port McNeill

Weekly Flyer Instore

New location! Opening Spring 2013

Windsor Plywood

• doors • hardwood flooring • mouldings • stains and finishes • hardware • cabinetwoods • lumber • plywood • laminate floors • adhesives • craft and hobby supplies • spindles • expert advice • and so much more!

PORT MCNEILL

1917 NIMPKISH CRES.

New location!

Ph: 250-956-3367 • Fax: 956-4205 Hours: Monday - Friday: 7:30am - 5pm Saturday: 8:30am - 5pm • Closed Sunday

www.windsorplywood.com 52 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Haida-Way Motor Inn Central Location, Close to Marina & Downtown #AFÏ $INING 2OOM 0UB Cold Beer & Wine Store on Site Free Wireless Internet Access -ICROWAVE &RIDGE #OFFEEMAKER IN %ACH 2OOM #OMPLEMENTARY "REAKFAST INCLUDED IN 2EGULAR 2OOM 2ATE

Only 30 minutes from Port Hardy and the Prince Rupert Ferry & 20 minutes from Telegraph Cove

s #AMPBELL 7AY 0ORT -C.EILL "# 6 . 2

www.pmhotels.com

T

his is one of the most breathtakingly beautiful spots on the planet with a relaxed pace that is a thing of envy. The unimaginable natural beauty and the solitude of being the only vessel in sight are just a couple of the things that attract more boaters to this region each year. Visitors with go-anywhere freedom can immerse themselves in the midst of it all at water level - either by kayak, pleasure boat or on guided wildlife expeditions.

communities

Broughton Archipelago

The region’s legendary sailing and paddling expeditions head deep into the Broughton Archipelago, a mazy region of waterways and numerous islands large and small clustered northeast of Port McNeill beyond Sointula and Alert Bay. Echo Bay on Gilford Island is the region’s one main port of call, either by water or floatplane. It’s home to a full-service marina as well as a remarkable museum and replica hand-loggers shack created by author, naturalist and retired fisherman Billy Proctor (see page 11). Shop for art, dine at a pig roast, take a wilderness painting class and head into the forest on guided forays for wild food. Marinas, affordable lodgings and oceanside campgrounds can also be found up Tribune Channel, past the narrows into Drury Inlet and throughout in this postcard region.

Those seeking a more solitary communion with nature can easily find it in one of the many secluded coves noted in any of the halfdozen boaters’ guides to the Broughton Archipelago. In every way, the Broughton Archipelago welcomes your visit and can enrich your life.

Once in a lifetime…May not be enough.

Music, Helicopter Fishing, Ocean Fishing, Fresh Water Fly Fishing, Fitness, Helicopter Adventures, Glacier Lunches, Bear Watching, Hot Tubs, Whale Watching, First Nations Cultural Experiences, Boating, Gourmet Coastal Cuisine, Private Cabins, Remote Luxury, Kayaking, Hiking, Stand Up Paddle Boarding, Massage, Rock Climbing, Photography Lessons, Wildlife, Outdoor Rain Shower, Memories Created, Tailor-Made

NimmoBay.com www.northislandgazette.com | 53

communities | sayward

communities

Sayward www.Sayward.ca Visitor Centre: 250-282-0018

D

etour off the fast track and take a deep, invigorating breath of clean west coast air as you enter a land of forests, mountains and winding hiking trails on the edge of peaceful Johnstone Strait. Sayward is the gateway to Vancouver Island North’s rich bounty of outdoor pleasures. The quaint and rustic village is an hour’s scenic highway drive north of Campbell River and 90 minutes south of Port McNeill.

Get oriented for unscripted, do-it-yourself outdoor adventure by checking in at two spots – Highway 19 at the Sayward turnoff or the dock at the end of the Sayward Road on Kelsey Bay. Here you’ll find maps, accommodation information and friendly advice on area hiking, walking, bicycling, fishing, canoeing, kayaking, camping (by the village pond or oceanside), wildlife watching and killer-whale sightings.

Backpackers and casual hikers explore a trail network that follows ancient First Nations trade routes in criss-crossing what’s aptly named as the Valley of Trails. The Dalrymple Forest Interpretive Trail offers a gentle self-guided stroll to a shaded, moss-scented glade. Test stamina and strength on the challenging H’kusam Klimb, a day-long ascent and return; awe-inspiring valley views and lush alpine picnic spots reward those who reach the mile-high summit.

Lovely White River Provincial Park (aka the Cathedral Grove of the North Island) was saved for posterity in the early 1970s when three local loggers refused to cut down this remarkable stand of giant trees.

Locals K now:

The old gro wth trees in Wh Park are still standing to ite River Provincial d fallers who risked their ay thanks to three loca jo l refusing to cut these m bs in the mid seventies agnificent g by iants.

Mt. H’kusam, Sayward Boomer Jerritt photo

54 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

T

hree unserviced campsites serve those who trek off the grid. Yet the wilderness has also been tamed in beautiful fashion in a few easily accessible spots. Nature buffs, couples and family groups wander acres of woodland trails at Victorian Garden Gate Manor. Birdwatchers eager for sightings of trumpeter swans, herons, bald eagles and more head for the estuary at the Salmon River Wildlife Reserve or the wheelchairaccessible Kelly’s Trail. Local guides can be hired for fishing expeditions and wildlife viewing.

Sayward’s wharfs and community life as a whole gets busy in the summer. An annual vintage car show is held in June.

Artists display their work at Art in the Park in July. And August is bookended by the Oscar Daze slo-pitch baseball tournament and the Tour de Rock Fishing Derby, a fundraiser for Cops for Cancer. Fresh produce and good food are great reasons to visit the weekend market before relaxing in Heritage Park in the shade of an oak tree planted in 1936 to mark the coronation of England’s King George IV.

Sayward Junction

Gas & Convenience

• Propane • Gas • Diesel • Souvenirs

& much more at the Junction

250.282.3232

xAhÂ?Â?Â?<!ÂŁÂ&#x160;Â?!Â?ÂĄAAcÂ?2Â?6 am - 10 pm CYPRESS COFFEE HUT & GALLERY Re-opening May 17th, 2013 11:00 am - 8:00 pm

Come Golf one of Vancouver Islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s toughest 9 hole executive courses.

The course is open daily from 9am to 7pm weather permitting April to Oct. 31 Club House is open from 10am to 7pm where you can rent clubs and pull carts.

250-282-3649 www.golfsayward.ca

There are balls, tees, snacks, drinks, and gifts for sale.

Sayward Valley Resort Fisherboy Park

MOTEL s CAMPGROUND s GROCERY s LIQUOR Clean Modern Accommodation

#ABINS KITCHENETTES -OTEL 2OOMS &ULL 3ERVICE 'ROCERY 'ENERAL 3TORE ,IQUOR !GENCY -OVIE 2ENTALS &ISHING (UNTING ,ICENSES #OMMERCIAL "USINESS 4RAVELLERS 7ELCOME !MPLE 0ARKING FOR ANY SIZE RIGS WITH TRAILERS OR BOATS

Large Fully Serviced Campground

3PACIOUS TREED PRIVATE SITES 3OME PULL THROUGHS AVAILABLE 4ENT SITES SHOWERS lRE PITS 3OCIAL CENTRE W CABLE TV WIl #LOSE TO lSHING GOLF HIKING 7ITHIN WALKING DISTANCE OF RESTAURANTS PUB "ICYCLE FRIENDLY

Glenn Greensides, world renown for his large wooden carvings, will be doing chainsaw carving here this year.

Cypress Tree Cold Beer & Wine Open 7 days a week

corner of Sayward turnoff & Island Highway COLD BEER AT LIQUOR STORE PRICES

Cypress Tree Inn located next door to Sayward Junction Gas & Convenience Store Home Cooking Free Internet access & Free long distance anywhere in North America available to customers

250.282.3648

Phone: 250-282-3204 Toll Free: 1-866-357-0598

fax: 250.282-3648 www.cypresstreeinn.net

www.fisherboypark.com fisherboypark@telus.net

cypresstreeinn@saywardvalley.net

Find us on Google Earth 1546 Sayward Road, Sayward, BC V0P 1R0 Just 1/4 mile off the Hwy 19 junction at Sayward Rd towards Kelsey Bay/Sayward

Get your Expressos, lattes, cappuccinos, fruit smoothies.

We also have 16 different flavours of ice cream

Open 7 days a week Convenient stopover for North or South bound Port Hardy Ferry traffic 45 minutes North of Campbell River

Summer (May 1) 7 am - 9 pm Winter (Sept 15) 7 am - 8 pm

www.northislandgazette.com | 55

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Sointula Harbour Dan Hillert photo

56 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

communities

Sointula A Place of Harmoney www.sointulainfo.ca Visitor Centre: 250-973-2001

Locals K now:

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fascinating history, free bike rentals, a historic co-operative store and plenty of rural charm and character makes Sointula on sprawling Malcolm Island a memorable getaway from the already remote pleasures of Vancouver Island North. The town’s name means “place of harmony” in Finnish. It was established in the late 19th century when a colony of Scandinavian settlers arrived with utopian dreams. While their ambitious plans were derailed within a decade, visitors will quickly learn that these visionaries chose the right place for a fresh air and salt water paradise on earth.

Most visitors today arrive via a 25-minute BC Ferries sailing from Port McNeill. Many park their cars and travel either as pedestrians or cyclists. Those without bikes can borrow one for the day by checking in at the Sointula Resource Centre right off the ferry dock. The island invites exploration, and a car is helpful when heading to popular destinations like Bere Point, Mitchell Bay or the Pulteney Point Lighthouse. Boaters utilize the good moorage in the Malcolm Island Lions Harbour.

Hikers rack up the mileage on the Mateoja Heritage trail, meandering back in time to an early 1900’s homestead. Bere Point Regional Park is the island’s only public campground. It’s the starting point for the Beautiful Bay trail, which winds along a rocky ridge that offers breathtaking ocean glimpses. Some hikers are lucky enough to witness killer whales rubbing on the pebble beaches below the viewing platform at the start of the trail.

Visit the local museum, one of the best for its size, to learn about the island’s unique history. Drop into BC’s longest running cooperative store, formed as the Sointula Co-operative Store Association in 1909. A bistro, bakery and deli provide a good range of food options, and its possible to shop for island made art and crafts at a few shops and home studios. The Sointula Resource Centre Society’s visitor information staff can point the way to the island’s B&B establishments and other accommodation options.

www.northislandgazette.com | 57

communities

Telegraph Cove S

tep back in time and set sail into a marine mammal wonderland at Telegraph Cove. This historic and picturesque waterfront village is perched at the entrance to Johnstone Strait, the Broughton Archipelago Marine Park and the Blackfish Archipelago. A top-10 winner of best towns to visit in a poll of Canadian travel writers, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s among the last surviving boardwalk communities on the West Coast. Kayakers, wildlife viewers, pleasure boaters, scuba divers and sports-fishing enthusiasts clearly agree as they book early to avoid disappointment and magnetically return to this secluded, truly magical dot on the Vancouver Island North map.

Whale watching vessels set out on daytrips and multi-day adventures during the May to October season. Visitors here have the opportunity to enter into a rare, precious and respectful experience in wildlife viewing. The density and abundance of marine mammals in this area is truly astonishing. It is common to have the privilege of spotting killer whales (orca), humpback whales, minke whales, Steller sea lions, Dallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s porpoise, harbour seals and Pacific white-sided dolphins. River otters and black bears are also often sighted.

These waters are one of most predicable places to see killer whales in the wild. The area is frequented by both the mammal-eating killer whale population known as â&#x20AC;&#x153;Biggâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s killer whalesâ&#x20AC;?(or â&#x20AC;&#x153;transientsâ&#x20AC;?) and the fish-eating killer whale population known as the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Northern Residents.â&#x20AC;? The latter come to the area to feed on salmon and to rub their bellies on â&#x20AC;&#x153;rubbing beachesâ&#x20AC;?. They are the only population of killer whales in the world known to have this rubbing behaviour. The beaches they most often use have been recognized as critical habitat and protected as a sanctuary known as the Dr. Michael Bigg Ecological Reserve at Robson Bight. Both the land and water areas of the reserve are not open to the public.

now: Did You K Fred in 1954 by

The Whale Interpretive Centre (WIC) in Telegraph Cove provides an additional opportunity to learn about local marine life. This wonderful facility offers a highly educational and engaging experience that focuses on the biology of local marine mammals, the threats they face, and how we can all work toward their conservation. The WIC is home to a fascinating collection of marine mammal skeletons and interactive displays. The feature skeleton is that of a 60â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (17 metre) fin whale.

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Whale Interpretive Centre, Telegraph Cove, BC Visit the WIC and: s VIEW AN INVERTEBRATE !QUARIUM s ENJOY A hKIDS CORNERv OF ACTIVITIES s HAVE EASY ACCESS TO THE INTERPRETERS s VIEW MARINE EDUCATION VIDEOS AND PRESENTATIONS Hours: May - September open daily s VIEW ARTICULATED SKELETONS AND FURTHER DISPLAYS BALEEN INVERTEBRATE PLANKTON

October - May by appointment only WHALING ARTIFACTS Box 2-3, Telegraph Cove, BC V0N 3J0 Phone: May - September: 250-928-3129 email: society@killerwhalecentre.org web: www.killerwhalecentre.org Oct - May: 250-928-3187

58 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

at Telegraph Cove

Vacation Home Rental For immediate rental and full details XXX ESJGUJOO DB t 3000 sq ft home with fabulous ocean views, close to fishing, kayaking, whale watching. Includes hot tub, pool table.

Daily and weekly rates

communities | telegraph cove

T

elegraph Cove’s history is embodied in its restored wooden buildings and boardwalk. In 1912, it was chosen as the northern terminus for the telegraph line from Campbell River and earned a name in the process. A lumber mill and salmon saltery followed. During the Second World War the village served as a military relay station. Its genesis into a whale-watching mecca began in 1980 with the launch of BC’s first such enterprise.

A 20-minute drive south of Port McNeill and yet still a world away, Telegraph Cove is home to a resort with historic cabins along the boardwalk, condo-style lodging, two campgrounds, RV parks, vacation rental homes and a pair of full-service marinas. The town’s small array of businesses includes its tour operators (whale watching, kayak adventures/rentals, fishing-charters, and grizzly bear viewing daytrips) along with a restaurant and pub, a general store and two patio cafés. Result: It’s a pleasure to unwind here in comfort after a day on the water, trading stories about spectacular sightings over a good meal before enjoying a deep sleep in this peaceful getaway destination.

Boardwalk,

Telegraph

Cove

Wha l Tele e Inter p grap r h Co etive C entr ve e

Telegraph Cove…gateway to Vancouver Island adventure Telegraph Point Strata Lots

RV Park

Telegraph Cove Marina Ltd. 1-877-Tel-Cove

www.telegraphcove.ca

North Island Kayak Marina

Dockside 29 Seahorse Cafe

Let nature nurture your soul www.northislandgazette.com | 59

TELEGRAPH

COVE Resort

a truly unique EXPERIENCE

120 site wooded R.V. Park and campsite.

Campfires permitted and firewood available.

Wastell Manor, 5 room Antique Hotel.

20 fully contained cabins and houses for rent. Many have woodstoves.

140 berth marina and launch ramp.

Marine gas, general stores, shops, wireless Internet available.

Killer Whale Cafe, Old Saltery Pub Salmon Barbeques on Wednesday & Saturday evenings at restaurant.

Great Sport Fishing Area Fishing Charters for Salmon & Halibut available.

Klaus Gretzmacher photos

Ph: (250) 928-3131 Fx: (250) 928-3105

tcrltd@island.net www.telegraphcoveresort.com 60 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

1-800-200-HOOK

communities

Woss & Nimpkish Valley O

ne of BC’s best-kept secret ski hills, plentiful hiking trails, watersports-friendly lakes, intriguing local history and a largely unspoiled natural landscape: It’s all part of the adventure that awaits active explorers who turn off Highway 19 at Woss, some 130 km north of Campbell River.

Logging has been a mainstay occupation here in the Nimpkish Valley since European settlers first arrived.

In fact, Woss is the site of the only operational railroad logging enterprise in Canada. Steam Locomotive 113, built in 1920 for rail logging, is a historic local treasure that honours the community’s heritage.

Beyond the logging zones are emerald-green parks and backcountry wilderness. The Nimpkish Valley Ecological Reserve protects the oldest trees in the region. Schoen means “beautiful” in German, and it’s exactly the right word for Schoen Lake Provincial Park (open March to October). Boaters launch from its gravel beaches. And climbers head for the heights via the trail network here and at Pinder Peak and Rugged Mountain.

North of Woss is Nimpkish Lake, a breezy favourite with windsurfers and kiteboarders. First-time spelunkers get a taste of the caving experience at Little Huson Regional Park’s “walk-in” limestone caves and unique land formations.

Powder blues aren’t an issue for North Island skiers.

Open on weekends and select Mondays, Mount Cain is a funky, community-run, family-oriented resort virtually free of line-ups. With room aplenty to carve sweeping ‘s’ patterns into the snow that’s piled up during the week, enthusiasts ride the t-bar lifts, inhale pure oxygen and test themselves on 18 runs and 457 metres of vertical drop. Café-style meals, slope-side accommodations and affordable lift prices contribute to the relaxed vibes.

Off-season, Mount Cain’s high alpine meadows attract hikers and wildlife watchers.

Locals K now:

Camping is fr Forest Prod ee at Western uct campsite sites in this s. area are lake Most lots or priva side with cy.

Nimpkish River Catherine Hugnagel photo

www.northislandgazette.com | 61

communities

Zeballos www.Zeballos.com

Z

eballos is pure gold as an outdoor adventure destination on the sheltered inland Pacific coastline of Vancouver Island North. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a perfect jumping-off point for Kyuquot Sound and the marine getaways at Catala and Nuchatlitz Provincial Parks.

Hire maritime guides and their boats in town or bring your own transportation. To get here, head north for 15 minutes from Woss on Highway 19, then travel west for about an hour on a gravel logging road. The scenery, rewarding vistas and remote beauty of the place fully justifies the trip.

This was once literal gold-rush country. Between 1938 and 1942, a bustling town rose practically overnight as the fever peaked with the extraction of $13 million in claims. When the richest veins were tapped out, those who remained turned to forestry and fish processing, key industries to this day.

Explore regional history at the family-friendly Zeballos Heritage Museum.

Sport fishing is a favourite way to get out on the water in pursuit of salmon, halibut, red snapper and rockfish. Troll in the relatively sheltered Zeballos Inlet. Cruise towards the Esperanza Inlet and the wilder waters of the open Pacific. Or cast lines for cut-throat and rainbow trout in the Zeballos and Kaouk Rivers.

Scuba divers explore the rock walls at Tahsis Narrows, surfers head for Nootka Island, and birdwatchers congregate in local estuaries.

After enjoying the relaxed pace of Zeballos, motorists can follow the gravel road to Fair Harbour, a great launching point for marine adventures. Gorgeous, beach-lined Rugged Point Marine Park is an easy day paddle from the shoreline.

Come, Explore & Discover Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gold In Them Hills!

Heritage Buildings, Self GuidedWalking Tours, Heritage Museum Outdoor Recreation Paradise Sportfishing, Kayaking, Walking Trails, Birdwatching, Diving, Rock Climbing Visitor Services Restaurants, Accommodations, Camping and RV Sites, Boat Launch, Store, Fuel

Call us at (250) 761-4229 between 8:30-4:30 Mon. to Fri. or check us out online at www.zeballos.com

62 | www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

Locals K now:

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Cluxewe 2ESORT

more than a campgroundâ&#x20AC;¦an experience

The Kwakiutl First Nation invites you to a special place â&#x20AC;¦where the Cluxewe River meets the sea

Cluxewe Cafe July & August 7 days a week 11:30am-8pm

s CABINS CAMPSITES MOST WITH FULL HOOKUPS

many on the water s FULLY EQUIPPED BEACH FRONT COTTAGES s SHOWERS LAUNDRY PLAYGROUND BOAT RAMP s SPECTACULAR VIEWS SUNSETS

Just off the Island Highway 9 kms north of Port McNeill

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CLUXEWE COM www.northislandgazette.com | 63

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