S-Mag_Nov2013

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© 2013 Columbia Sportswear Company. All rights reserved.

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©2013 Audi Canada. *Please drive safely and obey speed limits. “Audi”, “RS 7”, “quattro”, “Vorsprung durch Technik”, and the four rings emblem are registered trademarks of AUDI AG. European models shown. To find out more about Audi, visit your Audi dealer, call 1-800-FOR-AUDI, or visit us at audi.ca.

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Whistler

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LET OUR HOSTS TAKE YOU ON A WEEKLY TRIP TO THE WORLD’S FINEST SKI DESTINATIONS + SKI TIPS to enhance your skiing abilities + SKI PERSONALITIES: those who colour the sport of skiing + RESORT PROFILES to prepare you for your next ski trip + COMPETITION: who will shine at the Sochi 2014 Winter Olympics + INDUSTRY NEWS: trends that are making news in the sport

> Check out the broadcast schedule at snowsportsculture.com

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Photo: Paul Morrison. Skier: Ian Morrison

(Ski Television > TV Guide)

ALEX PULLIN © 2013 B.O.P.

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IN THIS ISSUE WINTER 2014

“ THE POWDER IS SO DRY THAT OUR SPRAY REMAINS VISIBLE LIKE A CLOUD OF SMOKE IN THE AIR” WASABI POWDER DIET, PAGE 44

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Clockwise from top left: Rowan Thornton, Aspen/Snowmass, Matt Barnes.

DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

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ED NOTE The indulgence of aspirations

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FIRST LOAD Sports couples, new gear

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PEAK PIX What’s new for 2014

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SLOPE STYLE Black is back!

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TIPS UP Look ahead or perish

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PARTING SHOT Skiing, the old way

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Former racer finds salvation in the mountains along this legendary stretch of road in the Kootenays.

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ASPEN WONDERLAND

Haute couture, celebrity sightings and leg-burners at Aspen.

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→On the cover: A skier descends Aspen Mountain.

Photograph by Paul Morrison.

POWDER HIGHWAY

WASABI POWDER DIET

The slopes of Japan could be the world’s best kept powder secret.

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SILVER & GOLD

Silver Star, has all the right ingredients for road-tripping parties.

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FROZEN BEER? REFRESHINGLY AWESOME JAPANESE LAGER SERVED LIKE SOFT ICE CREAM see page 17 SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Luxury — The state of great comfort and extravagant living.

November 2013 Vol. 8, No.1 EDITORIAL /ART / PRODUCTION EDITOR Gordie Bowles ART DIRECTOR Lisa Thé MANAGING EDITOR Don Cameron SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER Paul Morrison SENIOR WRITER Michael Mastarciyan SKI TIPS WRITER Josh Foster

The indulgence of your aspirations One cup adventure, two cups luxury, one-and-a-half cups fluffy snow and a dash of exotic spice. That’s our recipe for the ultimate ski travel experience. And our promise to you, the readers of this magazine. We aspire to inspire you to get out there ... perhaps to a never-been-to destination, or to rediscover your own backyard. The mountains provide so many opportunities, and we will never be short of content.

In this issue of S-Mag, we take you to the far-reaching slopes of Japan (Wasabi Powder Diet, page 44), where Japanese snow monkeys hang from birch-lined trees along the surreal terrain and powder slopes. Then to the closer-to-home options of Silver Star (Silver & Gold, page 52) where families can find adventure in so many forms, to the East Kootenays (Ski Racer’s Salvation, page 26), to experience the five-headed monster they call the Powder Highway. Lastly, we take you to the penultimate in comfort destinations, Aspen/Snowmass (Aspen Wonderland, page 38).

We often refer to luxury as the cornerstone of a ski trip to remember. Snow, of course, takes top honours in priority ... if the skiing is bad, the experience will likely follow. But to take great pleasure in your journey — and to indulge a little — is where the journey elevates to a new level. The origin of “luxury” goes back to the 14th century, from Middle English luxurie or the Anglo-French luxorie, which loosely translates as “excess.” But in our ski travel context, we refer less to opulence and more to indulgence. Appreciating the finer things, pursuing quality while experiencing the world around you. Perhaps the best way to define the luxury lifestyle is experiential. So get out there and experience.

CONTRIBUTORS Matt Barnes, Claire Challen, John Evely, Josh Foster, Mark Kristofic, Paul Morrison, Julie Nieuwenhuys, Michel Painchaud, Mike Ridewood, Kirsten Skarsgard, Rowan Thornton, Caroline van ‘t Hoff Publication Agreement No. 42084025 Canada Post No. 7309575 ISSN: 1913-9861 (Print), ISSN: 1913-987x (Web) ADVERTISING Mark Kristofic mark@s-media.ca

SNOWSPORTS MEDIA INCORPORATED PRESIDENT Chris Robinson, chris@s-media.ca VICE PRESIDENT Mark Kristofic, mark@s-media.ca CONTROLLER Lisa Crowley, lisa@s-media.ca S-Magazine is an independent publication of Snowsports Media Inc. 87-B Hurontario St., Collingwood, Ont., L9Y 2L9.

Phone: (416) 840-6615 E-mail: info@s-media.ca www.snowsportsculture.com

In the NEXT ISSUE The Deep Winter Issue — February 2014 This mid-winter issue of S-Mag peels the many layers of Nelson, B.C., and the nearby Whitewater Ski Resort, to expose a travel destination worthy of your consideration. We also profile the best skiing in the East. From Vermont and New Hampshire to Quebec and the private clubs of Ontario, the East is brimming with potential for outstanding travel options.

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Trevor Brady

Gordie Bowles, EDITOR

EDITORIAL & DESIGN Fresh Air Publishing

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FIRST LOAD →People, news, gadgets and other chairlift ramblings

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YYZ-EGE & SKI FREE FLY NON-STOP from Toronto to

Eagle Vail Airport on Air Canada this winter and ski free for that day at Aspen/Snowmass. The seasonal airport is Colorado’s second busiest, next to Denver International, as it is a hub for ski travellers and close proximity to Aspen (90 minute-drive south) and Breckenridge (80 minutes east). Present your boarding pass at any ticket window and voila.

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Beauty of Sport Ski cross racer Kelsey Serwa took part in a fashion photoshoot with Sportsnet Magazine in Las Vegas last summer along with 28 Canadian athletes. The 24-year-old racer from Kelowna, B.C., who suffered a knee injury in March, has her sights set on a medal chase at the 2014 Sochi Olympic Winter Games. Photograph by Matt Barnes.

POWER COUPLES

Tiger and Lindsey, the latest and likely greatest attention grabbing sports couples, are not alone on the athletically minded romances. We present you with the top five sporty power couples.

1. Tiger Woods and Lindsey Vonn: The world’s most famous golfer and the soon-to-be-all time greatest female ski racer of all time, started dating last year. At the time of press they were still an item.

2. Thomas Grandi and Sara Renner: The first (and only) Canadian man to win a World Cup technical race, Grandi, and Olym-

pic medallist and long-time national team cross country racer Sara Renner are living the life, raising children and running a boutique inn called the Paintbox Lodge in Canmore, Alberta.

3. Rory McIlroy and Caroline Wozniacki: McIlroy (golfer) had just won his first major, and Wozniacki (tennis) was climbing up the world

rankings when they met. Neither has been as good since — but they’re still together and just added a family member, a dog.

HONOURABLE MENTIONS 4. Andre Agassi and Steffi Graf; 5.

Nomar Garciaparra

“Felt really good to click back into a pair of skis again. Everything came back easily, like riding a bicycle.” — Robbie Dixon 16 S–Magazine

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and Mia Hamm; 6.

David and VictoriaBeckham; 7. Gisele Bundchen and Tom Brady; 8. Ricky Stenhouse Jr. and Danica Patrick; 9. Tony Parker & Eva Longoria; 10.

Carrie Underwood and Mike Fisher.

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Hero3 Smaller, lighter and built-in wi-fi are the highlights of the upgrades, with the ultra-high-resolution capture modes in the Black Edition. gopro.com

CM5 Barista This freestanding coffee machine uses coffee beans, grinds to your choice and makes two coffees (or espresso) at once.

By Miele. miele.ca

Frozen Beer?

On the topic of Japan (see page 44), beer from the Land of the Rising Sun is refreshingly cold ... but the Japanese beer maker Kirin has gone to the extreme, developing a method for cooling the beer directly and keeping it chilled for longer. The specially-developed machine dispenses a topping of frozen beer foam like soft serve ice cream.

Found only in Japan unfortunately.

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HOME GROWN

Whistler-based Prior have been handcrafting skis and snowboards in Whistler since 1990 using local artistic talent to create a West Coast vibe ski. $849. priorsnow.com/db3

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EDITOR’S PICK

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70

MILLION* — number of Gen Y skiers in North America

11 * DAYS

AVERAGE NUMBER OF SKIER DAYS * 2013 Snow Sports Market Intelligence Report

PUTIN BANS PROTESTS FROM SOCHI OLYMPICS After Russian President Vladimir Putin signed a decree banning demonstrations and rallies for two and a half months in Sochi around the 2014 Winter Olympics, the protests and international outrage continued.

The Rossiyskaya Gazeta, the official government newspaper, published the presidential decree in late August, listing an array of measures tightening security in the Olympic host city, including the ban on public assemblies.

The Winter Olympics is taking place in the Black Sea resort from Feb. 7-23 and the Paralympics are being held March 7-16.

ONE PASS, 12 PEAKS Some of the best powder stashes in the West have joined forces to create the Powder Alliance — 12 resorts who offer free skiing benefits to pass holders from other participating alliance areas, including: Sierra-at-Tahoe, Crested Butte, Snowbasin, Bridger Bowl, Stevens Pass, Timberline Lodge, Schweitzer, China Peak, Mountain High, Arizona Snowbowl, Mt. Hood Skibowl and Angel Fire Resort.

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JAB, DUCK, PUNCH The national ski team is constantly looking for ways to innovate its training routine, like when MarieMichelle Gagnon and Erin Mielzynski stepped into the ring in Calgary last summer.

New Ski Film: TRACING SKYLINES

Poor Boyz Productions are up to their wicked ways again, this time in collaboration with Red Bull Media House, following six of the top pro skiers as they embark on indescribable ski adventures around the world that take them deep into unchartered territory. Buy it on iTunes, Google Play and Vudu. Featuring: Sean Pettit, Seth Morrison, Karl Fostvedt, Julien Regnier and Bobby Brown.

Kelsey Verboom / Alpine Canada

{FROM THE VAULT}

Good ol’ fashion custom boot-fitting

“Ankloons make those ski boots fit snug, improve your skiing with controlled air cushion comfort, scientifically designed and guaranteed to make all ski boots fit perfectly!” Circa 1940’s.

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RESORT WRAP

5 REASONS TO VISIT SUN PEAKS 1 / MORE FLIGHTS FROM YYC & YVR WestJet added daily flights from both Calgary and Vancouver, beginning in late November. The Kamloops airport is a short 45-minute shuttle or drive to Sun Peaks.

2 / WINTER OKANAGAN WINE FESTIVAL The Sun Peaks Winter Okanagan Wine Festival has six new events as part of its wine-connoisseur agenda, from wine basics in “Wine 101” to learning to blend wines in assemblage and unique pairings like s’mores and mulled wine.

3 / NEW FAMILY SKI & RACE CAMPS A new program for families looking to expand their skiing skills while on vacation,

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Sun Peaks is offering family ski camps this winter. The camp also includes entry into the popular Friday race series so participants can test their newly acquired skills in a live setting. The camp runs Wednesday to Thursday starting Jan. 8, 2014.

4 / BACKCOUNTRY SNOWSHOE ADVENTURE Snowshoeing is a great way to get to know an ski area and its surroundings.

Explore 12 kilometers of snowshoe trails, starting from the central village leading out through backcountry forest and meadows, arriving at the stunning McGillivray Lake. You can opt to explore on your own or hire an experienced local guide and venture through the natural habitats of the Canadian lynx, wolf and snowshoe hare.

This is not for the faint of heart; it’s a fivehour ascent over 1,500 feet.

5 / SKI WITH AN OLYMPIC CHAMPION At Sun Peaks, all guests have this opportunity every weekend. Nancy Greene Raine, a Canadian Senator and winner of the 1968 Winter Olympics giant slalom, meets visitors at the top of the Sunburst chairlift around 1:00 pm and shows guests her favourite areas, the best snow and her extensive local knowledge of the resort and its history.

TRAVEL TIP* XC SKI The nordic skiing at Sun Peaks is a hidden gem. Try the moonlight nordic ski program, where under a full moon you can enjoy a hearty meal, chocolate fondue and live entertainment in a cozy backwoods cabin.

From Top: Sun Peaks Resort / Adam Stein; Kelly Funk

The latest offerings from some of Canada’s finest resorts.

Photo: Paul Zizka/Banff Lake Louise Tourism

There are many reasons why this legendary place has become a defining destination for skiers and

snowboarders. Almost 8,000 acres of Rocky Mountain terrain. 30 feet of light, dry snow annually.

And 3 awe-inspiring resorts that you can explore on one tri-area ticket. This is a UNESCO World Heritage site you’ll definitely want to visit, because here in Canada’s protected playground, nature TM

rules. Visit SkiBig3.com/smag

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1 / SKI LIKE SVINDAL, GUAY, VONN You don’t need to be an World Cup skier to experience your own Olympic moment.

Rip the Dave Murray downhill course – if you dare – or the women’s Olympic venue on Franz’s is a leg-burner extraordinaire.

Don’t forget to hit Hot Air with some gusto (you might need someone to spot for traffic below the jump) and ride into the Olympic finish. And if you’re feeling really peppy, raise your arms and celebrate.

2 / RIDE THE PEAK TO PEAK When the Peak 2 Peak gondola opened in 2008 there was concern that the idea may flop. Nothing could be further from the truth. Tourists from all over the globe have flocked to take in the breath-taking views and revel in its mind-boggling engineering.

3 / FAMILIES THAT SKI TOGETHER, STAY TOGETHER Many say that the happiest family memories occur on snow. From exploring trails through the trees, to conquering the mountain or run, to nursing a cup of hot chocolate while recounting details of every run, family time doesn’t get any better than connecting on the mountains. The new “family zone” on Whistler Mountain – accessed by the Emerald Express – is a slow skiing area, featuring terrain for all skiers in the group.

4 / LEGENDARY APRÈS There’s no better après than in Whistler.

At Creekside, Dusty’s is numero uno and on the village side, options abound. Bars and

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patios sprinkle the base of the mountain making this pedestrian-only village exude an atmosphere of camaraderie. The Garibaldi Lift Co., Merlin’s and Longhorn’s are about 10 paces beyond the ski racks. Forbes Traveler magazine ranked the GLC as the best après establishment in North America.

5 / THE SNOW! For every 150 meters of vertical you climb on Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains, the temperature drops one degree celsius.

So even when it’s raining in the village, at 1,609 metres, the snow is, more often than not, light. The combination of high levels of precipitation and moderate temperatures creates the west coast powder that Whistler is famous for.

HANG WITH THE HARDCORE’S*

“I really love the Chimney (Blackcomb).

Everybody hits Spanky’s first thing on a powder day and leaves Chimney for me. Plus, I like the high-speed entrance line ... seeing how far I can make it up the hike is a lot of fun.

— Rory Bushfield, professional freeskier

KICKING HORSE 1 / FRESH NEW FACE It might not feel like Kicking Horse is a new ski resort but it’s still the Rockies youngest four-season stop. And with the support of the nearby town of Golden (at the initial referendum, 94% of the residents voted in

favour of the resort’s development), Kicking Horse is maturing nicely.

2 / NATIONAL PARK MARATHON A couple hours west of Calgary, the resort is situated next to the Rockies in the Dogtooth range of the Purcell Mountains, among six national parks. Yes, six (Banff, Glacier, Kootenay, Yoho, Mt. Revelstoke and Jasper).

3 / THE VERT! The vertical drop from mountaintop to the village is 4,133 feet, making it the fourth highest in North America. Read: long runs, legs of lead.

4 / SCENIC ASCENTS The Golden Eagle Express features Canada’s first, walk in eight-person gondola cabins. The fixed-grip quad Stairway to Heaven, carries skiers up 1,230 feet. You’ll want to be alert to take it all in, especially on bluebird days.

5 / MOUNTAIN TOP LUXURY The Eagle’s Eye, set at the top of the mountain is Canada’s highest elevation restaurant. Try the “lunch package”, the ultimate all-in-one choice which includes ticket, lunch entrée, homemade pie-of-the day and drink.

MUST TRY*

HELI-SKI WITH IN THE PURCELLS While you’re in the area, why not hit up Purcell heli-skiing, who have been taking skiers to the pristine summits and snow fields of the Purcell Mountains for 35 years; 1.877.HELISKI.

From Top: Justa Jeskova, Hicking Horse Resort

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ADVERTORIAL

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ONTARIO

THE NEXT GENERATION

Southern Ontario resorts attract families to get out on the slopes this winter Generations of skiers have taken their first runs on the ski hills on the southern tip of Georgian Bay, a short scenic winter’s drive north of Toronto running from Barrie to just west of Collingwood.

BLUE MOUNTAIN RESORT Blue Mountain offers some of the best skiing and riding in Ontario, with 42 trails ranging from beginner to double black diamond and a top-quality snowmaking system, that provides consistent conditions.

The resort’s 16 lifts — including five highspeed six-person chairs — maximize your on-snow time and ensure you won’t spend half the day standing in line or sitting on a lift. Panoramic views of Georgian Bay greet you at the top. The championship Badlands Terrain Park boasts some of eastern Ontario’s best rails along with two superpipes to get the adrenaline pumping. The fun continues after the sun sets, with 25 trails and 13 lifts under the lights.

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HORSESHOE RESORT With 26 Alpine runs, a terrain park and six lifts nestled in a natural snow belt and surrounded by beautiful forest, Horseshoe Resort prides itself on great snowmaking and stellar conditions.

The Horseshoe Resort snow school offers an extensive variety of lessons like the Discover packages include a beginner lift ticket, equipment rental and a 90-minute lesson. Weekend, evening and holiday programs as well as March Break camps cater to all ages and abilities.

MOUNT ST. LOUIS MOONSTONE Located just north of Barrie, Mount St. Louis Moonstone is one of Ontario’s largest familyowned ski resorts, offering 36 runs, two terrain parks, two pipes, nine chairlifts and three carpets. The resort is known for being family friendly and prides itself on accommodating the beginner skier to the most advanced skier. The snow school employs 150

enthusiastic professionals ready to teach or improve upon the skiing and riding skills of any age or ability level. There are private and semi-private lessons, kids’ programs, and “Jim’s Snow School Academy” focusing on advanced ski training, course-specific training and off-season training.

SNOW VALLEY Snow Valley is known as the best Ontario hill for kids, for good reason. With 19 runs, a “Kidz Village,” half pipe and terrain park, eight lifts and a magic carpet, the focus is squarely on families. There are lessons for every age and skill level, and the convenience and flexibility of two-hour tickets as well as family value packs. The resort offers daily, weekend, midweek, holiday and night lesson programs, as well as racing programs. Whether your family includes a firsttime skier or snowboarder, racer, free-rider, the staff at Snow Valley will help your crew have more fun and enjoyment on the slopes!

WHERE FAMILIES COME TO SKI

BRUCEGREYSIMCOE.COM

“I always vowed to return to each resort I had visited as a ski racer or coach, to enjoy simply as a skier; a tourist following my own docket”

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SKI RACER’S Former ski racer finds solace in the wonders of the mountains, along with mascara-wearing ripper GFs on a girls-only trip on the Powder Highway

By Claire Challen Photographs by Paul Morrison

SALVATION

IN MY EARLY DAYS OF SKI RACING, I skied all over the world but had

only seen the insides of hotels and a handful of ski trails, salted to a firmness most people avoid. I’d never truly experienced skiing until I hung up those stiff boards and parked my two-sizes-too-small race boots in the free pile at the dump. Nevertheless, the day I skied in my final race, I felt my insides weeping with an ache so deep I didn’t know how I would ever recover. I always vowed to return to each resort I had visited as a ski racer or coach, to enjoy simply as a skier; a tourist following my own docket. Ski hard, but take part in all the other bounty that ski resorts and towns offer without the repercussions of a 5am morning run or 7am lift load. This vow was to be my salvation. It would make my years of ski racing worth something. I would ski for fun. A lot. And enjoy après without a curfew.

SKI SIRENS In order to excel, a girl needed to throw femininity out the window and embrace the walk, talk and attitude of her male teammates. That was the world order back then. The fastest girl preferred to be one of the guys: her life mission to hang with them, or better yet, beat them on and off the slopes. Rarely found was a gentle, petite girl winning ski races. Now with the likes of media-sensation Lindsey Vonn gracing covers of sports and fashion magazines, girls can be as feminine as they want to be and still kick butt in their sport. Now it’s more acceptable to truly BE a girl — whether hucking your chick meat from what were previously huckedby-men-only cliffs, throwing huge tricks in the park, or tearing up the downhill

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course with highlighted locks and doeeyes enhanced by lenses of pink. A girl can be a knock-your-socks off bombshell in the looks department and she may blow your mind if she can ski too.

On this day, I was headed out on the Powder Highway in the Kootenays in southern B.C., a 15-passenger van full to busting with three other girls and just enough room to sit down and buckle up. My travel companions were physically tough but perfectly feminine, mountain-loving girls. We would loosely follow the Nonstop Ski and Snowboard company’s route from Calgary to Kicking Horse and then Fernie.

Surrounded by gear bags, I figured there must be numerous wardrobe options and hair styling implements tucked away amidst the bulging duffel bags. All differ-

ent backgrounds brought together for one week with a solid common ground — our love for skiing and riding the mountains.

I was about to embark on a girls’ ski trip.

No racing involved, unless you include competing for that last piece of chocolate or scoop of ice cream.

Skier girls are a different breed and also the type of girl I connect with best. It’s that innate toughness, a simplicity of desire to ski as much as possible and the attitude that there are no rules regarding a girl’s role in this world. It’s okay to take up the axe and chop the firewood, see who can climb that tree the quickest, shotgun a can of pilsner and release the after-effects.

This is the kind of girl who can be wined and dined, treated like a gentle flower, and she’ll love it. But wake up the following day and

LIQUID COURAGE: After a glass of champagne (far left), the entourage tackled the slopes of Kicking Horse.

challenge her to a chinese downhill, and she’ll love that too. One of the cool parts of skiing for me is meeting like-minded souls who have a love for the mountains and relish the freedom and challenge that skiing can bring. Connected even before we met through our shared love of skiing, we’d find the connection drew deeper as we explored our penchant for fine dining, good wine,

laughter and chocolate throughout our week together. All in Western Canada for the same reason — namely the love of the mountains — these girls and I were going to get along just fine.

THE ENTOURAGE Teacher, skydiver and snowboard-park princess Emily Park is heading into her eighth

gap year from the UK and sixth winter as an instructor for Nonstop. At first she is quiet, choosing her words carefully, but underneath her calm exterior is a tigress who wants to throw herself out of an airplane whenever anyone will open the door. She’ll tell it like it is, even if that means telling you that your hair looks scruffy and you probably don’t want your photo taken looking like that.

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Detail oriented, open and friendly, Nonstop’s marketing gal Christy Sutherland exchanged her job at the Australian Department of Defence for a quieter life in the Kootenays.

It’s never a good idea to embark on a ski trip unless equipped with your own personal undercover ninja who could bust out some life-saving manoeuvres, should the need arise. Christy’s mad life skills, which I could only imagine, combined with a winning smile took a load off my mind. Like a true Aussie, she always made sure we had enough liquid sustenance in case we should need it.

Determined to move to B.C. from the time she was a wee dot in the UK, Jen Mitchell began her B.C. days as an instructor and moved up the ranks to ski school supervisor in Fernie. Jen’s character was a perfect fit and NonStop easily persuaded her to join as a host, where she inspired new recruits to seize any opportunity to stay in the Kootenays.

Taking advantage of ever expanding Fernie, Jen also has her own home painting business which helps to satisfy her entrepreneurial

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side. Spin bike instructor and mountain bike enthusiast too, this gal is game for pretty much anything you might throw her way.

And if you want to have a giggle, she’s a good one to get you there.

BUBBLES & MEAT We cruised into Kicking Horse to tuck into some pub fare at slope-side Winston’s, fuelling up with jugs of ale and specialty burgers. Our local host – ticket window Andy, Kicking Horse’s one-man marketing army and RCR marketing guy Matt Mosteller — filled the room with inspired life stories of sacrifice, ski bum style. A far cry from racing days where the chat would have been in the form of a team meeting discussing the wax and choosing the line. My stomach would have been aflutter with nerves, but the only thing it was full of now was beer bubbles and meat. Lush Mountain accommodation had provided us lodging in a glorious chalet. With just four of us, it was huge – three expansive floors

connected with a flowing staircase fit for a girl to make a ball-gown entrance — or in our case, our matching powder blue long underwear and knee high ski socks. Sorry boys, there was no pillow fight.

Making up for the lack of champagne powder (as expected at this time of year), we made a stop at the Eagle Eye mountain top restaurant for killer views and champagne (the drink). Scallops were on the menu and became the food of choice thereafter. How long does it take to get the disease of kings anyway? Hopefully more than a week if one is genetically predisposed.

Showered and glammed up after an apres-ski calorie burn at the Dawn Mountain x-country trails just minutes from our condo, we headed off to our dinner invite. Passing through an unlikely area that screamed Kootenay hillbilly haven, we turned in through the gates of a wilderness oasis. Cedar House Restaurant and Chalets is one of Golden’s hidden gems, tucked away in the woods only a short distance

Now it’s more acceptable to truly be a girl — whether throwing huge tricks in the park,

OR TEARING UP THE DOWNHILL COURSE WITH HIGH-LIGHTED LOCKS AND DOE-EYES ENHANCED BY LENSES OF PINK.

from the town. Whisked inside by our hosts to our own private dining area, another evening of indulgence playing the relaxed tourist began. I would have been pounding down the pasta in years gone by in hopes to gain a couple more pounds for the downhill the next day, but now I could seek out that scrumptious glass of wine to go with scallops the size of golf balls.

PINEAPPLE EXPRESS The trip took a strange twist the next morning as we headed to Purcell HeliSkiing. We ended up a few minutes late to the lodge, but it was immediately appar-

ent there was no sense of urgency. Fresh baked muffins and hugs from owner, Rudi Gertsch eased the blow that we would not be heli-skiing due to the Pineapple Express that had rolled into the area.

Touted as one of the “grandfathers of heli-skiing”, Gertsch is no stranger to no-fly days. We were expected farther down the road later that day so we couldn’t stick around to see if the helis would fly the next day which was tough on Christy and Jen especially. This would have been another tick on their bucket lists. Even though the snow was less than ideal, given the go-ahead these girls would have jumped in heli-ready,

FINE LIFE: The impressive digs at Kicking Horse (opposite page); a scenic moment; the classic shot-ski at Fernie; a hungry grizzly devours a meal.

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GOBBLE, SLURP: A meal fit for royalty at the Cedar House in Golden, B.C. Christy (below) pays tribute to good ol Oz, sporting her mom’s sweater from the 70s.

gear on before the rest of us would have had time to think about putting on our boots.

YOGI BEAR’S CAMPGROUND Any day not skiing is not as good as you may have planned. Alas, the girls and I were determined to continue our adventure in high spirits. As a closed heli-door opens another door, or perhaps gate to the world’s largest enclosed grizzly bear habitat, as it was in this case. Boo, resident grizzly at Kicking Horse Resort, emerged from his make-shift den, eager to fatten himself back up after a long winter. Unfortunately, I would miss the deer dinner dropped from the gondola, but I was happy to see him munching away on fish and vegetables and could have stayed for hours, but the girls were waiting.

Next up was a tour down an active logging road towards a natural treasure called the Lussier Hot Springs. The springs, set up against the Lussier River, made the hot-cold treatments relatively easy to manage, unless you’re me. With a little slip and plunk I was in. Who would have thought such a shallow river could pack such a punch, I thought, as I was carried quickly away from

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the group. I had a hunch those girls were special but after they clamoured to catch me, all shrieks and splashes to grab an arm or leg to drag me back, I knew.

BAVARIAN CHAMPAGNE Eager to get back on the road, we zipped along in the sunshine past snow-free fields, wondering if we had skipped a month or two and now it was summer. It’s unique to me to travel in a passenger van neither as coach nor racer. With the Non-Stop logo plastering the van, it’s obvious we are on tour. Peek in through the windows to the laid-back vibe inside and again, it’s obvious. Drinking water and nibbling girl friendly gluten-free road snacks, I compare this road trip to the old days in vans filled with racers where I was the pseudo mother, keeping a constant vigil on what the racers were putting into their bodies. No pop, no candy, no fast food, COME ON guys.

Memories of college racing road trips, the van filled with nasty olfactory overload after a Macdonald’s feast and Euro bodies ejecting remnants of their Triple Big Macs.

I still wince at the thought of those times;

the air was so thick in the van I thought I might pass out. Such a nice change to be in a van of all females, where the air smells sweet, albeit slightly sulphurous after our dip in the springs.

“We’re here!” shouts driver-extraordinaire, Jen. The quaint town of Kimberly

YOUR Y OU R F FAMILY AMILY WILL WILL THANK THANK YOU YOU

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Burfield Base 1,198m (3,930')

Village

Photos: Adam Stein, Kelly Funk

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Drinking water and nibbling girl friendly gluten-free road snacks, I compare this road trip to the old days in vans filled with racers where I was

THE PSEUDO MOTHER, KEEPING A CONSTANT VIGIL ON WHAT THE RACERS WERE PUTTING INTO THEIR BODIES.

SKI TRIP? Jen shopping at Freyja in Fernie, opting for another style to complement her long underwear. Christy (right) relaxes with a facial at 901 Spa in Fernie.

CLAIRE & THE CHOCOLATE FACTORY

welcomes us with colourful homes and quiet streets as we pass through up to the nearby Kimberley Resort. Resident hair expert Emily graciously whipped her magic hands and tools through my hair to make me quickly presentable for the evening.

The “Bavarian City of the Rockies” evokes images of festivals, dances and song while the cobblestone street, closed off from traffic reminds me of Boulder, Colorado. A lively meal at happening Pedal & Tap Restaurant and Lounge in the heart of the village is topped off with a challenge.

Zip around the restaurant on a child’s bike avoiding chairs, tables and people, with knees in your armpits. Do not put a foot down at any time. Emily, always game for a challenge and a photo op, hops on her little bike and we zip around together. But our fun night soon turned to day and we made our move down the highway toward Fernie.

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Again we travelled in the sun. Is there anyone skiing anywhere? Waiting for us was Mike Mcphee, sales and marketing guy for Island Lake Lodge cat-skiing. Riding through the forest in a snowcat, we caught glimpses of spectacular terrain opportunities peaking through the tops of the tremendous trunked red cedar trees. Bursting out of the woods we arrive in paradise — a stunning lodge and cabins set at the base of a magnificent bowl and tree-skiing — these are the kinds of views and terrain that make me even more grateful to be a skier. There would be no skiing for us today but we had a lot to look forward to with the promise we could return next season.

With the sun continuing to shine and the forecast showing rain, and lots of it, we were prepared for the potential of more days in furry apres moon boots versus our ski boots.

Opening the door to our cozy digs at the Fernie Lodging Company , we were pleasantly greeted by a snuggly living room complete with stone fireplace and cottage kitchen. The loft above the living room was to be my space for the next three nights.

With views of the slopes from the claw foot tub, I was in for some luxurious pampering.

With a ski resort at our doorstep, we had to go up and check it out. It wasn’t exactly what we had hoped for, yet we made some turns and the girls showed me some of their favourite bowls. Luckily I have been here in mid-winter and know this place to constantly replenish it’s numerous bowls and tree lines day after day.

Down town, we realized yet again that our similarities didn’t end in the mountains as Jen, Christy and I came out of our change rooms in the same top, which we all ended up buying. Shopping. Check.

Tummies rumbling, we crossed the street for casual soup and sandwiches at the bustling Loaf restaurant. A couple doors down, we were invited for a tour of Beanpod.

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The only bean-to-bar company in Canada that makes chocolate the traditional way, Beanpod is quite the unique spot in small town Fernie. With flavours such as lavender, passionfruit, and salted dark, this was the perfect dessert. Ensuring the 700 bean espresso bar was in an especially safe spot, we moved on down the road to the next female-friendly stop.

A facial for Christy, hot pools and lounge rooms for Jen and Emily, and a massage for me at the 901 Spa. Being cold for so many years, I relish any opportunity to be warm. This one-hour long massage in a heated sanctuary was the ultimate.

The spa bathrooms allowed us all the space to “recover” from our treatments. I needed time to regain my strength after my ultra relaxation – plus I needed to get rid of my massage face – that wonder ring one gets from being face down in the head rest for an hour. Refreshed and feeling peckish, Yamagoya Sushi would be the ultimate clincher to a stand-out town day.

Back at the resort, the thumping tunes of the nearby Monster Energy Party House resounded through our walls. Neon green and full of big mountain guys here for the Enemy Lines event; it would be sacrilege not to walk across the street to check it out. We strolled over to the party, lured in mainly by the fact that this was the same house from the movie Hot Tub Time Machine. Opening the door we’re greeted by an over-powering man musk, the whiff of ski boots and beer. We receive a tour of the pad from an overly-sauced guy who was most impressed with the super-sized

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bottle of Jaegermeister they’d just finished and the foosball table. Eying the scattered empty pizza boxes, these finely-tuned athletes were obviously headlong into their training for the big event the following day.

Carbs and fat, plus the dehydrating benefits of alcohol, throw in a couple of hours of alcohol-induced sleep, a leftover slab of pizza found atop the sound system for breakfast and there you have a recipe for product sponsorship and a travel budget. Sweet. It’s not everyday that you get to chug beer with such stellar athletes.

and to new friendships, with the promise to connect for more merriment, including real snowy ski days next time.

In my eyes, skiing is number one when heading out on a ski trip, but a trip can be made or lost with the people, the food and drink, and the accommodation. I’ve lived months in volkswagen buses, peed in parking lots all over North America, slept in ski shops and cooked in shop windows after closing time. I am completely thankful for having had those experiences as it makes me appreciate a 1000 thread count Egyptian cotton bed-sheet in a high-end lodge or an over-priced martini in an upscale restaurant all the more.

I am a recovering ski racer, healed by the wonders of the mountains; the offpiste slopes and the joys that come with travelling to new resorts, meeting new skiers, and divulging in meals of royalty. A competition for so many years, now skiing has transformed into a way of life; simply a pure love of skiing, with a little bit of head-to-head tossed in from time to time.

Sure, I ski like a girl — and I’m ok with that. But I’ll race ya.

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ICE CREAM AND CHAMPAGNE Back at our peaceful haven for our final night together, we finished off ice cream and champagne. In Emily’s words, “It’s a British thing. You just have to get on with it, even if the weather isn’t great.” We had done just that and there were no regrets. We toasted to a ski journey without powder

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ASPEN W O N D ER L A ND

Haute couture, celebrity sightings and leg-burners combine for a unique experience at the alpine-chic Aspen resorts.

Photo: Paul Morrison

BY MARK KRISTOFIC

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ASPEN IS LIKE the Whole Foods of ski towns. Those with money love it. And those who have never been there, they knock it without quite understanding this Colorado resort town. And those who are smart about it, they sample the lifestyles of the rich and the famous without breaking the bank. In Aspen, just like Whole Foods, people watching is like a sport, and you’re likely to see a celebrity or two.

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Whole Foods serves up a colourful displace of imported organic fruit. Aspen offers up orgasmic sensory overload that can be attained through the long cruiser runs on Aspen Mountain, the wide open bowls of Aspen Highlands and the inexhaustible terrain of Snowmass. And the cultural offerings and night life at Aspen can rival Vegas.

Often associated with celebrities in haut couture après ski fashions and the occasional pet dogs being carried in purses, the first impression upon landing at the Aspen-Pitkin airport, a 45-minute flight from Denver, does little to dissuade the stereotype. Rows of private jets – with the accompanying tinted-window Suburbans

— line the runway loudly announce that we have in fact landed in the playground of the privileged. After quickly and easily checking through the quaint airport and jumping into a taxi for the short five-kilometer commute into town, it becomes quickly apparent that Aspen is not your typical manufactured ski town.

In a nod to the town’s mining roots, dominating the main street upon arriving is the Hotel Jerome, the village’s 130-year historic landmark luxury hotel offering. The recent renovations were done with painstaking detail to ensure historical accuracy.

The classic red-brick structure along with the nearby Wheeler Opera House gives off

Burger photograph by Jason Dewey; Champagne photo by Public Works

TRUFFLE PARMESAN FRIES There’s no better place to soak in the Colorado sunshine after a day of tearing up the slopes than Ajax Tavern, located at the base of the Silver Queen gondola in Aspen’s famous The Little Nell Hotel. A cold sudsy drink and renowned Truffle Fries is the perfect afternoon topoff to a ski day.

Lightly coated in truffle oil with the perfect amount parmesan for flavouring makes me ashamed to be Canadian, where our creative culinary contribution to french fries is poutine.

the ski town vibe that is routed in historical context. More like a Fernie or Banff rather than a manufactured resort specific to skiing, such as Whistler or Vail. The difference to Fernie and Banff is that the base of Aspen Mountain is a stones throw from the town’s main street.

Within 30 seconds of taking an Aspen downtown history lesson, it’s time to hit the slopes. With ski boots already on and buckled up inside the taxi, we quickly board the Silver Queen gondola, which includes an iPhone docking station for a personal music experience on the ride. Then we head to the top of Aspen Mountain where the panoramic 360-degree views are worth the ride alone.

THE MOUNTAIN OF THE LOCALS Aspen Mountain is a real “skiers” mountain, with the bulk of the terrain being intermediate and advanced. Without sounding overly snobbish, this means that most beginner skiers stay away and the mountain is rarely crowded. With so much of the mountain accessible from the Silver Queen lift, we are able to hit all the skiing that Aspen has to offer — a great mix of groomer and glades.

After a morning of skiing solely off the gondola (read: nonstop laps, never the same run twice, legs about to fall off), lunch at Bonnie’s mid-mountain restaurant is a throwback to the 70s. Although located right

Pop Up Bars is one of those ideas. While in the middle of cranking some killer super-G turns on pristine corduroy carpet on Aspen Mountain (what I think I look like and what I actually look like are very different things), I start to feel a burn in my legs and start thinking that the bottom of the mountain is very far away. A little champagne is exactly what is needed.

Then, like an oasis in a desert are yellow umbrellas and lounge chairs decked with the champagne brand. Tunes pumping, we ski up to the pop bar – appropriately name The Oasis – and in my own version of an F1 pit-stop, I ski up, unclick, soak in some sun while sipping on a champagne flute in a lounge chair, click back in and back to ripping up some turns. High performance, Aspen style.

AN OASIS IN THE DESERT I consider myself a creative guy and the ideas that I generally hate the most are fantastic ideas that I wish I came up with.

Little Nell’s Veuve Clicquot Champagne

SWALLOWED WHOLE After taking some time to really explore Aspen, we head over to Snowmass, the second of Aspen’s four-mountain offering. With more skiable terrain than Aspen,

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Buttermilk and Aspen Highlands combined (plus add in another Aspen Mountain for good measure), Snowmass could swallow all three other mountain options and be a skiing vacation unto itself.

With our 4-Mountain sports performance rental skis conveniently shipped over from Aspen Mountain to Snowmass through their valet system, the short 20-minute drive to Snowmass is light and convenient.

Unlike Aspen Village, Snowmass Village has that manufactured feel that was built around skiing because that is exactly what it is. What the village might lose in authentic character it more than makes up in quality skiing and massive amount of skiable terrain. With loads of steep and deep terrain above the tree line, more often than not you can experience the sensation of skiing out of bounds while actually in-bounds.

In a unique nod to beginner skiers, Snowmass’ Elk Camp recently underwent a $13 million dollar renovation, moving the beginner ski area from the base of the mountain, where 99percent of beginner

Scott Markewitz

on the mountain, Bonnie’s is independently owned and operated (by Bonnie of course) and the menu is a wonderful array of reasonably priced home-cooked dishes that include her famous oatmeal pancakes, soups, pizza, and dumplings. The feeling is more like dropping in at a friends house for lunch as opposed to a mid-mountain cafeteria.

While so much of the mountain is accessible from the gondola, six other chairlifts including one high-speed quad and one high-speed double, allow skiers to explore the many fall lines and glades.

For the intermediate skiers who want to explore glades for the first time, there are wide-open glade runs that allow the skiers to get comfortable skiing in the trees before trying out something a little more on the gnarly side.

“ WHILE IN THE MIDDLE OF CRANKING SOME KILLER SUPER-G TURNS ON PRISTINE CORDUROY CARPET, I START TO FEEL A BURN IN MY LEGS AND REALIZE THAT THE BOTTOM OF THE MOUNTAIN IS VERY FAR AWAY.” Art Museum partnered with the Aspen Skiing Company, with the goal bring contemporary art to audiences in innovative ways and unexpected places. Each year since the collaboration began, contemporary art installations have been part of the onmountain experience, as well as lift tickets and season passes which display featured artworks of contemporary artists. The efforts have not gone unnoticed with Aspen Skiing Company recently recognized by the National Art Awards for their partnering initiatives with the arts community.

Dave Muller

ski areas are located, to a mid-mountain location. This allows beginners to truly feel the mid-mountain experience of riding a gondola, going up the mountain and skiing at an elevation rather than feeling like they are gum on the bottom of the shoe of ski resorts. Whether or not this was the intention of the resort, creating an enjoyable experience for beginners to help ensure they become life long lovers of the sport, was a brilliant move.

For us, Elk Camp’s new restaurant and bar meant scotch sampling in a wonderfully warm contemporary setting of stone columns– set among an underlit black and white glass bar and massive windows that afford commanding views.

ART IN UNEXPECTED PLACES Going back to my Whole Foods analogy, when thinking about everything archetypal Aspen, one might not think about the thriving art community that resides here.

In March 2013, the Aspen Art Museum started construction of a new privately

funded 30,000 square foot building that will include 12,500 square feet of gallery space.

Slated to open in the summer of 2014, the Aspen Art Museum further compliments the 30-plus independent art and photo galleries located in Aspen.

With a town so passionate about art, its only natural that it is incorporated into how the Aspen Ski Company does business. The love affair started in 2005 when the Aspen

Homeward bound After a trip that was far too short to truly take in everything Aspen has to offer, I reflect on what I expected to find in Aspen versus what I actually experienced. Skiing wise, you could not ask for more from a mountain resort. Trees, groomers, glades, bowls and steeps combined with reliable weather and snow, make for a can’t-miss skiing experience. Combine the luxuries that one would expect from Aspen with the richness of the town’s history and the passion for art and culture and the end result is a ski vacation that provides more than just skiing. And as we taxi out past the private jets again, I leave with a little more insight as to why those jet-owners love it here so much.

SHRINES What do Jerry Garcia, Michael Jackson, Yankee Stadium, Guiness Beer, Bowling, 9-11 and Dale Earnheart all have in common? They, along with 60 odd other people, places, things, sports or food have shrines erected in their honour by locals in and around Aspen Snowmass’ four mountain resorts. The shrines are not easily found or seen, for often than either being found by accident or with the help of local knowledge. The Aspen Times described the shrines as a tradition where “locals have been ducking into favorite hideouts on Aspen Mountain and nailing pictures, license plates, beads, silk flowers, wind chimes and other memorabilia to tree trunks in honour of their particular heroes.”

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I R B E A D S W T A W PO DIE The pow Land o f for der se the R cre is the

BY J mon t. W ing Su ith ULIE n ke NIE y’s!), billow could UW b ENH Japan y snow e the w UYS ’s cu , PH ltur and bir orld’s a OTO b c GRA l flair h-lined est ke pt PHS make s

BY C this lopes ( w ARO a LINE must- atch o VAN see s ut k ‘T H OFF i desti na

tion

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*

Big, white, fluffy snowflakes dance through the pitch-black sky and huge light towers illuminate the deserted runs of Niseko, Japan. It is 8 p.m. and while most skiers are enjoying yet another Asahi beer, I’m on a totally different kind of high. The eerie, elongated shadows of the birch trees appear to bring the forest to life. The runs and the surrounding woods are illuminated by 1,287 lights, making the visibility even better than in daylight. In this magical, three-dimensional dream world I fly through the feather-light powder. With an average of six days of snowfall a week, fifteen metres in a season lasting just 3.5 months, and 12-hour ski days, the chances of powder in Japan are the largest by far; it’s not roulette, it’s a guaranteed jackpot! Caroline and I, two Dutch powder junkies, couldn’t resist these numbers and cured our vitamin P deficiency by following a rigorous powder diet ... this time in Japan!

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CULTURAL PURITY For us Westerners, Japan is a country of idiosyncrasies such as heated toilet seats, adults with ‘Hello Kitty’ clothing and vending machines selling beer accessible to anyone and located in every imaginable location. Wherever we go we spot spelling mistakes, such as ‘calefur snow falling flom loof’, ‘fast aid kit’ and ‘experts onry’, which make us giggle every time.

Japan has been virtually free of foreign influences for centuries. In this homogeneous society, with 99 percent of the country’s 127 million inhabitants being Japanese, preserving the traditional culture continues to play a major role today. A spectacular festival, the Dosojin Matsuri, is held in the village of Nozawa Onsen on January 15th, starring the village’s 25- and 42-year-old men. The Japanese Shinto religion regards these ages as yakudoshi, meaning unlucky. During this festival, the men display their courage by defending a gigantic wooden shrine from the other villagers who try to set it on fire. By doing this, they hope to be able to avoid a year of misfortune. It is a fierce battle, with the ‘unlucky’ men fending off blows from blazing torches to prevent the fire from setting

the structure alight. This spectacle goes on until the attackers run out of ammunition.

The yakudoshi men have displayed sufficient strength and courage and, after the entire structure is set on fire, peace slowly returns to this charming village.

WINTRY TWISTED-BRANCH JUNGLE Clouds cover the valley like a woolly blanket, with imposing, steep mountains rising up above it. We are in Hakuba, a valley with ten different ski areas. This is where the downhill and the super-G were held during the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics. Although Japan has a reputation of being relatively flat, the high mountains of Hakuba look just like Alaska. That is one of the reasons why Jeremy Jones filmed part of his movie Further here. Dave, the

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lead guide and owner of the Evergreen Outdoor Center, introduces Hakuba to us: “Hakuba does get a bit less snow than Niseko, but it is all relative. I would give Hakuba an eight for snow and Niseko a 10. For terrain I would rate Niseko a four and Hakuba a 9 anda-half. It is lift-accessed heli-skiing, but I guess I am biased having lived here for years.” We put on our skins and ski tour the mighty mountains of Happo-One, one of Hakuba’s ski resorts.

Huge peaks and steep couloirs surround us. After a few hours it is finally time to drop into a large bowl, where 1,000 vertical metres of heavenly powder await us. The powder is so dry that our spray remains visible like a cloud of smoke in the air. Euphorically, we ski towards Dave and, as always, we are hungry for more. In the afternoon, we head into the famous Japanese birch forests, which look like a wintry jungle with their twisting branches covered in snow. We soar down in perfect conditions, which only seem to exist in the ski movies. The snow is so light that it is virtually impossible to breathe.

Whooping, we arrive at the road, where the Evergreen driver awaits us. To top it all, he points out wild monkeys as they dangle from trees along the way! Side note: The best place to spot snow monkeys is the Jigokudani valley, just outside Nagano. The valley is home to around 160 Japanese macaques, which descend from the mountains every day to soak in the onsens (natural hot springs). The monkeys are almost human-like as they lazily enjoy their wonderful hot bath before returning to the forest in the evening.

“NANA KOROBI YA OKI” The land of the rising sun has been plagued by disaster on numer-

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ous occasions: a catastrophic tsunami, earthquakes, floods, volcanic eruptions and two atomic bombs. The typical Japanese saying “Nana korobi ya oki” (literally: fall down seven times, get up eight) expresses the great resilience of the Japanese people. This ability to bounce back is related to a culture that values personal responsibility and hard work, as well as modesty and a sense of solidarity with a community. Japan is a fascinating country with a rich (ski) history. The Austrians introduced skiing in Japan some 100 years ago. Building on the successful 1972 Winter Olympics in Sapporo, the popularity of the sport peaked in the mid-1980s, when there

*WHEN TO GO

The Japanese ski season runs from mid-December to the end of March, with the most snow falling in January. Depending on the length of your stay, you can choose to visit both Hokkaido, the North Island and Honshu, the biggest island. We recommend spending a night in a ‘Ryokan’, a traditional Japanese inn where you sleep on futons and can enjoy delicious Japanese cuisine consisting of miso soup, rice and raw fish.

were as many as 700 ski areas. An economic recession in the early 1990s forced many ski areas to close and led to a decrease in the number of skiers. The Australians with their strong dollar pushed these numbers up again when they discovered the Japanese powder. Tom, a boarder from Hakuba, who we met in the lift, moved to Japan to work as an English teacher and was amazed that nobody skied off-piste yet at the time: “Before 1998 there were no foreigners in Japan and when I first came to Hakuba ten years ago, it was just me and six other snowboarders riding powder.” So Westerners – rather than the Japanese themselves –discovered the Japanese

powder. Until a few years ago, skiing off-piste was still strictly prohibited in some ski areas. Nowadays, each ski area has its own specific measures to try to regulate backcountry skiing. These include signing in and out with the ski patrol by means of a liability release form, having a so-called ‘powder pass’ with you and wearing a coloured bib. Whether these measures actually help improve safety remains to be seen. In practice, these measures don’t get in the way of skiers like us. We had no trouble skiing powder both within and outside the largely empty runs!

‘MI-SO DEEP’ Having worked up a ravenous appetite after a morning full of powder, we sit down in the ‘resrorant’ and order a bowl of steaming udon noodles, which we loudly slurp in keeping with Japanese custom. The healthy and delicious Japanese food has had a very positive influence on our trip and, in no time, our diet consists of miso, rice, noodles and other local delicacies. After lunch, we step into the Asahidake gondola, which was built to bring hikers to the active volcano in the summer. Although Asahidake is not an official ski area, the gondola runs every twenty minutes in wintertime. The large quantities of fresh pow prevent us from being able to see the active volcano, but we find plenty of action in the back bowl, which we named “Mi-so deep!”

Asahidake is situated in the heart of the North Island in the Hokkaido Powder Belt, along with the ski areas Furano, Kamui Ski Links and Tomamu. This region is home to the driest powder in Japan, which suits our tastes just fine. Chuck, the owner of Hokkaido Powder Guides has a delicious dessert in store for us: a tour through a 700-year-old spruce forest in Daisetsuzan, Japan’s biggest national park. We immediately understand why Daisetsuzan national park is known as “the playground of the gods”; the snow there is divine!

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JAPANESE APRÈS: THE NAKED TRUTH Although it’s minus 20 degrees celsius outside, I take my ski clothes off as quickly as possible. My bare feet sting in the snow before I step into the scorching onsen. Chuck, our guide from New Zealand, is already comfortably sitting in the 48 degree Celsius water drinking a beer. He takes a sip and laughs as we rowdily try to get used to the hot water. When we have finally acclimatised

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a few minutes later, Chuck tells us more about the onsens: “The Japanese believe that onsens have healing powers because of the minerals they contain. It is physically and mentally cleansing and relaxing.” I soak in the hot water and enjoy a cold beer. In my mind I relive the day’s infinite powder. I conclude that I’ve been spoiled for life by 21 days of fresh snow in a row. If I where ever to be on a diet, it could only be the Wasabi Powder Diet!

*WHERE TO GO West Hokkaido Resorts Niseko: Niseko Boutiques: comfortable, modern and luxurious apartment, located in the centre of Hirafu.

The Niseko Company, Asahi Lodge: crème de la crème, tastefully designed chalet for 10 people with a sauna, car, and spectacular views.

Rusutsu: Kamori Kanko Hotel: Huge family style hotel situated on the slopes, with a beautiful onsen, several restaurants and even a carousel in the lobby Central Hokkaido Resorts Furano: Tsuru Apartments: Brand-new apartments, located just a five-minute walk from the lift.

Tomamu: Hoshino Resort Hotel — large corner rooms with jacuzzi overlooking the slopes. Après-ski starts in the wave pool or or in the impressive Ice Village.

Kamui Ski Links: While there is accommodation here, the ski area is also easily accessible from Furano.

Daisetsuzan National Park Daisetsuzan is situated in the middle of Hokkaido.

On a clear day, you can see smoke from the active volcanoes from both Tokachidake and Asahidake. The Northern Star Lodge near Furano serves as a good spot to explore the national park. You can stay here for only $420 per week.

Asahidake: A variety of lodging available, from hostel to five-star hotel.

Tokachidakev: Kamihoroso — Authentic Japanese hotel, good value for money, beautiful wooden onsen and elaborate meals (both breakfast and dinner).

Highly recommended!

Honshu (home to Tokyo) The guides of the Evergreen Outdoor Center can show you the alpine terrain of Happo-One, the forests of Cortina or one of the other surrounding areas of Hakuba and, since this winter, this is the first place where you can heli-ski in Japan!

Nozawa Onsen: Paradise Chalet — a comfortable chalet on the mountain, for larger groups up to ten people, with guaranteed first tracks.

Myoko: Hotel RefreAkakura — Choice between Japanese (best option) or Western rooms, including delicious Japanese breakfast. Don’t forget to visit the private karaoke room.

Hakuba: Shirouma-so — As little as $100 gets you a two-person room in this beautiful, traditional hotel, which won the World Luxury Hotel Award in 2012.

Morino Lodge: this is the perfect place to meet powder buddies at the bar. In this relaxed, clean and cozy lodge the owners Craig and Matt might even show you some of their favourite runs.

Gakuto Villas: Brand-new, luxurious, modern villa for six people, within walking distance of the lifts at Happo-One.

For more see Furano Tourism: www.furano-kankou.com/english/home

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BY GORDIE BOWLES PHOTOGRAPHS BY KIRSTEN SKARSGARD & ROWAN THORNTON

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and SILVER Family ski mecca, Silver Star, has all the right ingredients and options for large and small road-tripping parties

GOLD

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ROAD TRIP

Powerful little words. Sure to conjure up memories, the ol’ road trip means many things to many people. Or, for the sake of this story, many things to many people over many years. For me, it has taken on a multitude of meanings. In chronological’ish order: out-of-town ski race, overseas racing tour, out-of-country exploration, romantic getaway, honeymoon, media junket, long-haul business flight, day trip, red-eye work foray, not-so-romantic family excursion; and now — a new one to add to my list — multi-family road trip. I somehow fell into the same trap again, thinking that this ‘road trip’ would be a rip by day (on-hill) and then rip by night (apres). But this adventure to Silver Star in B.C.’s interior — along with four kids, four adults and two jam-packed SUV’s — was a journey to remember.

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When you arrive at the Victorian-inspired village — located 30 minutes from Vernon, B.C., in the heart of the Bugaboo Mountains — you know you’ve arrived at a resort for the ages. And all ages. Our kids, with the pentup energy that a nonstop, five-hour drive instills, burst out of the truck like Usain Bolt out of the start blocks and sprinted towards the snow. The adults stretched, yawned and then reached for sunglasses (bright spring sun!) surveying the impressive snow-covered hillsides, wondering which one of these

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BUT FIRST YOU MUST TEND TO THE LITTLE ONES WHO WANT TO RIP THE MOUNTAINS THEMSELVES. festively-bright vacation chalets would be ours for the next four days.

Like other family-oriented resorts, Silver Star caters to those of us who stumble around with kids, equipment and other random items tucked under our arms. If you stumble into a store or shop, tripping on gear and kids, likely you will not get a stare from anyone here. And Carnival nights, mascots and kid-friendly runs like “Peanut Trail” are a few examples of the kid-oriented scene. Store fronts are set amongst boarded sidewalks which also provide an ambiance that radiates family fun.

The mountain also has a “performance” vibe, subtle to detect at first blush. Perhaps it’s the central location of the local ski club cabin at the village entrance, or its ability to attract world-class cross county events, or its challenging black runs (leg burners!) on the backside of the mountain. Or perhaps that they’ve churned out pro skier after pro skier (watch out for local halfpipe skier Justin Dorey at the 2014 Sochi Olympic Games). Whatever it is, I had the feeling at Silver Star that it was time to let ‘er rip. And then one-up yourself the next run.

But first you first must tend to the little

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ones who want to rip the mountain themselves (after learning the basics). The beginner program at the snowsports school, as we quickly found, is a real gem. It is located just behind and below the main village; easy to find but tucked away enough that the tykes can learn without being in a fishbowl.

After my youngest boy, Charlie, had his first-ever lesson — where Ashley, a pleasant instructor, taught him how to put on his skis, manage his equipment and safely get up and down a short hill — we darted over to join the older kids on the Discovery Park runs. The day was gloriously sunny and warm; a perfect spring day.

Next I took my seven-year-old, Dylan, to the mountains most popular chairlift, the Comet Express, a high-speed six-seater.

The resort and its offerings were on full display on the upload. From mid-way we could see the Village in its surroundings.

Sitting in a small basin below snowcoated evergreens and the colourful vacation homes, gently perched on the hills above a frozen pond with an island in the middle, I admired the beauty of the layout here. We were told by one of the hosts that the pond is usually clad with ice-skating families,

but you need ice for that which is here during the colder winter months. Surrounding the pond you can see mini snowmobiles snaking through a trail in the trees (this was a huge hit with the kids!) and just beyond is Tube Town Adventure Park, which lights up a kids eyes like approaching the gates of Disneyland for the first time.

As we approached the top of the mountain, we expected that the options for travelling the mountain with a beginner in tow would be restrictive but not at Silver Star. With 115 runs spread across three mountain faces there is suitable terrain for

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THE GOLD MEDAL BAKER

all levels, but even the more expert runs are approachable. So I let Dylan decide where we’d go. We tackled a few trails down the front side of the mountain like Milky Way and Constellation, which bob and weave through tree-lined terrain. We then made our way to the terrain park. Wow! A whole new world and whole new level of skiing which have launched many World Cup careers.

Next I ventured solo to Silver Star’s forested back side, where the skier traffic is lean, cell phones don’t work and the world slows down. My shoulders dropped. But not for long as steep gully chutes, like Three

Wise Men and Kassanova, are mini adventures in themselves. I had to pay attention.

And while I was back there, I reacquainted myself with an all-time personal favourite cruiser run (I can’t think of a better one anywhere) — Gypsy Queen. If you’ve ever been a ski racer, or just enjoy the feeling of a perfect carve, this run will make your day.

As afternoon snack time approached, we snaked our way back to the Village and somehow, skiers and boarders back every square inch of the boardwalks, café’s and stores. Where did they all come from as I didn’t see many on the hill? We chose

It was one of the strangest phone calls he could recall. About one year before the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympics, the Norweigan ski team called the resident baker at Silver Star, Frank Berkers, owner of Bugaboos Bakery. “Can you bake for the team at our Olympic training camp?” echoed an accented Norweigan on the other end of the phone. It was 4 a.m., when Frank arrives at the bakery each morning.

“Sure, send me the recipes,” replied the ever-smiling Dane who first landed in Silver Star nearly 18 years ago.

After deciphering and translating the three recipes Frank was still scratching his head trying to figure out this odd mix of seeds, grains, yogurt and many other items.

And the volume of the baked demands were enormous. “I couldn’t believe how much of this bread they wanted, I think it was a loaf for each skier a day.”

Today, you can find the “Gold Medal” loaf proudly displayed (and sold often) in the bakers showcase as you enter the well-established and perfectly located café.

“We grew slowly, if you grow too rapidly you’ll lose your identity,” Frank explained.

“But I’ll never forget the first time my wife Caroline and I arrived at Silver Star in 1996, we looked at each other and said ‘this is it, this is the place’.

The mountain didn’t have a bakery at the time and so they planted roots. His biggest challenge was cooking at high elevation.

“My recipes didn’t work at this altitude,” he explained. But after learning about French culinary techniques to baking in the highaltitude Pyranees mountains, he applied a new approach, one that is enjoyed by hundreds of people daily.

The Bugaboo has been smartly renovated over the years but keeping the charm of the original hotel which was made up of small compartmentalized rooms to an open café style which oozes charm and character. Not to mention aromatic bliss with the European-inspired pastries and Italian Lavazza espresso. Yum, yum.

— G. Bowles

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Bugaboos, the classic and nostalgic stop at Silver Star, a must-visit ... their gourmet baked goods (see sidebar) are to die for.

The snow quality, which is predictably good here in the Bugaboo Mountains, is usually a safe bet for vacationers. A typical stop to Silver Star is fronted with dry, light snow but for our timing in late March, heavy spring snow weighed us down a bit.

But the sunshine and blue-bird days made up for it. The mountain’s overall terrain mix is well balanced, with a broad selection of advanced and expert terrain rivaling that of any of Silver Star’s family-friendly neighbours, including Big White and Sun Peaks.

Along with our travel partners, friends Pearl and Folkert van Dijk and their children Oliver and Allyson, we explored most of the resort’s kids activities over the course of four days. The MY1 Pass gave us the freedom to move fluidly with the various interests and nuances of a big group, without having to shell out a wallet at every turn. One pass covered it all (nordic trails, snowshoe trails, tube park and outdoor skating, free learnto-ski lessons for first timers, on mountain discounts and so on). Even the Sovereign Lake Nordic trail system, which was like entering a time warp to a more peaceful time, is included in the all-in-one pass.

Even though we weren’t able to squeeze in a cross-country ski this time, we spent some time admiring the perfectly-prepared trails (there are over 100 kilometres of trails and three trail-side warming cabins). Note to self: plan this in the next trip, it would be the perfect way to spend a few hours.

For our two families, it was a bit of a whirlwind to pack it all in but the opportunity to share this time with friends and family at the same time is a ton of fun.

Where to eat For a more adventurous culinary offering, take the privately run horse-drawn sleigh to Paradise Camp for gourmet fare in the woods.

And I mean, in the woods! Apres options in the village are plenty, ranging from the rowdy Long John’s Pub and the more genteel Allora Tapas Bar. Treat yourself Make a side trip to the new Sparkling Hill Resort, built by the Swarovski Crystal family. There are saunas and steams, a spa, lakeview rooms and excellent food in Peakfine restaurant. Treat your family Put away the fat skis and embrace the skinnies. The Sovereign Lakes Nordic Centre has introductory cross country programs to give you a taste.

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WIN WEEKLY PRIZES THROUGHOUT THE SEASON

GREAT GEAR FROM COLUMBIA, HEAD, AND BOLLE

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Slope

STYLE Snowsports fashion trends

BY MICHAEL MASTARCIYAN

MEN IN BLACK I’D LIKE TO sit you down, look you straight in the eye, and tell you with conviction that I’ve consulted the fashion oracle and received word that black is the new “in” colour for the upcoming winter season. But quite frankly, that wouldn’t be true — because black, as a fashionable colour on the slopes, is always “in”. It’s just that this season it happens to be a lot more “in” than usual.

But why the sudden shift from light and bright to dark and gloomy in the “in-ness” department?

Maybe it’s a reflection of tough times in the global economy, and black is the snow fashion world’s subconscious attempt at austerity measures. It could even be a reaction to years and years of bright colours pummelling your eyes every time you look at the clothing racks of your favourite ski

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or snowboard shop. Whatever it is, black is definitely back!

One of the best examples of this year’s return to blackness is a very special jacket called “The Exclusive Model” done up by one of Japan’s most iconic snowsport labels Goldwin.

Inspired by traditional Japanese Samurai armours and designed with “Kigokochi” (which means ease of wear in Japanese), The Exclusive Model in “Urushi” black (Urushi is a traditional Japanese lacquer colour), this little gem may one day become the Holy Grail of black ski jackets as only 200 have been made for global sale in each size. Japanese minimalist chic at it’s best, this jacket is definitely for the inner Ninja in every dude out there who’s ever wanted to look black and stealthy while ripping.

Another Japanese snow sportswear giant with a katana to grind in the black jacket department is Descente.

With several sleek, slim-fitting jackets for men and women in black, some in pure unadulterated ebony, some with brightly coloured zippers and trims, Descente seems to be confident that once you go black, you’ll never go back!

The most outstanding contribution to the blackening of the slopes this season comes isn’t purely black, in that it’s a black jacket/black&white print pant combo, and yes it’s from the designers at Descente. Its “Maser” jacket, from the label’s Platinum Collection, is a slim fitting black jacket, with sharp, clean lines and with no visible outer hood. Normally I hate jackets without hoods, but this jacket is the exception and

Portrait by Peter Arkle

Black is the new black … especially if you’re a dude!

PACKAGES AND PROMOTIONS AVAILABLE AT MONT-SAINTE-ANNE.COM Only 30 minutes from the city, this extraordinary mountain is renowned for impeccable snow conditions.

The skiable terrain includes 69 trails spread across 3 sides of the mountain. After sundown, 19 trails remain floodlit and become the highest vertical drop for night skiing in the country.

Mont-Sainte-Anne offers one of the most consistent snow seasons in the area, which generally starts mid-November and lasts until late April, with its spring madness ski festival.

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SLOPE STYLE

Descente’s Optic Hybrid

I’m in love with it for several reasons. First of all, it comes fully loaded in the technical department, warmth, breathability, waterresistance, but that’s not what’s got me hooked. The hook for me is the pure look of this garment, it has a bespoke, tailored vibe that may or may not be the result of a feature Descente calls “Motion 3D” – a technological advancement whereby patterns are designed “to allow the garment to accommodate and mirror the sports specific movement your body makes as it stretches, moves and turns.”

The “Maser” is matched up with a really minimalistic, black, 1970s-looking down liner called the “Optic” which can also be worn on it’s own as a apres ski jacket, and let me tell you, it’s a fashion statement of it’s very own, when worn on it’s own. I’d throw it on top of a pair of jeans with no reservations at all. The Optic’s pocket area has a striking print that also appears on the pants, (called The Atom) that rounds off this kit. The print, at least in my warped Rorschach-tested mind, looks like a blackboard covered in white chalk scratchings that could very well be the

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mad and desperate scrawlings of Jack Torrance – Jack Nicholson’s crazed writer in Stanley Kubrick’s famed film The Shining.

Eye-catching yet understated, the beauty of this three-piece combo is that it has a lot of pop without having a lot of pop, if you can like dig what I’m saying man!

Since I’m throwing around words like “bespoke” and “tailored” let me tell you about another jacket that I’ve seen that will make it look like you’re having all your skiwear made-to-measure. This one is about as “haute couture” as it gets when your talking black ski jackets, and you guessed it, it comes from fashion’s Holy Land – Italy, from a “luxury” skiwear company called Pista Nera.

Pista Nera’s offerings include two masterpieces, The Cacciatori, a 19th century military-inspired design that also has a hint of motorcycle jacket to it, and The Labirinti, a very sleek, slim-fitting, jacket with a double chevron logo on the arm that again looks like something Michael Jackson would be comfortable wearing on the slopes. OMG, I’m actually saying I like a jacket that Michael Jackson would also like, I’m clearly not well.

JAPANESE MINIMALIST CHIC AT IT’S BEST, THIS JACKET IS DEFINITELY FOR THE INNER NINJA IN EVERY DUDE OUT THERE WHO’S EVER WANTED TO LOOK BLACK AND STEALTHY WHILE RIPPING. Rossignol, a perennial leader in winter fashion, is also in a black mood this year.

Rossignol’s contribution is the Aaron jacket, a hooded, technical ski jacket from its 1907 collection that’s available in a few colours, but looks best in, you guessed it, black!

Most of the wives, moms, sisters and girlfriends of the dudes I’m preaching the gospel of “black” to in this article, know the value in having “ a little black dress” in their wardrobe – you know, like the one Audrey Hepburn wore in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, that movie you couldn’t get out of watching that time the woman in your life took control of the remote and forced you to watch it with her cuddled up on your couch.

“The little black dress” concept is one the ladies out there are very familiar with.

That simple, easy to pack, goes with everything, piece that can be dressed up or down, worn casually or formally depending on how it’s accessorized. Well now, there’s a little black dress equivalent for all those guys who love to frequent the backcountry in style – and by “in style” I don’t mean you’ll be looking like Audrey Hepburn in a fauxdiamond tiara, holding a cigarette holder while logging vertical sledding in the wilds of B.C. or Alberta – so chill out brah!

So without further ado, the “little black dress” must-have this season is, Outdoor Research’s Vanguard Jacket in black, with the requisite Gore-tex and Recco bells and whistles serious backcountry jackets need these days. Match it with black for that Johnny Cash bad-ass skier look or with any other colour you like on the bottom if you don’t want to look like you’ve done time at Fulsom County prison.

HELLY HANSEN CATWALK

Scandinavian Design is the cornerstone in all Helly Hansen gear. The optimal combination of purposeful design, protection and style. This is why professional mountain guides, patrollers and discerning enthusiasts choose Helly Hansen.

CONFIDENT WHEN IT MATTERS Our Ski Patrol navigates a similar daily catwalk so you can enjoy the deepest champagne powder and most terrain in the Canadian Rockies.

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Tips

UP

Suggestions and tips from the pros

BY JOSH FOSTER

EYE ON THE PRIZE WHERE DO YOU focus your vision when you’re ripping down the mountain?

I’ve been noticing lately – especially when I’m riding the chair lift – that where skiers look is generally where they end up.

Seems pretty simple and logical but one of the most common traits among intermediate and even advanced skiers is they don’t look far enough ahead.

I see a lot of people starring down at the tips of their skis or looking across the slope before they’ve finished their turn.

You don’t look at the hood ornament on your car when you’re driving down the road (I hope not!). Watching your skis would be the same thing. Just like driving, you want to look down the road, or in this case, the slope. By keeping your chin up and your eyes scanning the trail as far ahead as you can will improve your overall balance and allow you to be more proactive in adjusting to the changing conditions. Here’s

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why: When you’re looking down at your skis it causes your upper body to roll to the inside of the turn, putting weight on your inside ski which results in a reduction in your edge grip. Looking across the slope will do the same thing. If you look down the hill this will allow you to stabilize your upper body and initiate your turn with your lower body. When you turn with your lower body on a pair of skis you turn yourself into balance, and when you turn with your upper body you turn yourself out of balance. Don’t take this the wrong way here; I’m not saying that you want to point your shoulders down the hill … as you may have heard in the past. I don’t really buy into those exercises like tipping your poles up and putting a target in between them; or the flashlight drill, shining your poles down the hill. These drills don’t actually do much for aligning your turn with your legs, but conversely those drills can force an

awkward and un-natural upper body position that puts you even more out of balance.

Instead of forcing your upper body to do something that it doesn’t need to do just keep your head up and look ahead. This lets you anticipate the changes in terrain, snow conditions and even traffic and is also a proactive way to ski which is much better for balance than being reactive.

Here’s something you can try to get into the right habits on those first few days out on the mountain this season: Look with your face, not just your eyes. Once you’ve got that down and it’s feeling good, take the next step by ending of your turn looking into the fall line of your next turn. Have a look at the photo on this page; do you see where I’m looking? That’s anticipating the next turn.

Give that a try, I think it’ll work for you.

Josh Foster is the director of snowsports

for Big White Ski Resort near Kelowna, B.C.

Portrait by Peter Arkle

Keeping your chin up and your eyes scanning the trail will improve your balance, anticipation and allow you to adjust to changing conditions

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BANK TURN A traditionalist skier wearing a retro-style outfit, completes a turn on his wooden skis near an old castle wall in Skofja Loka, Slovenia. Locals plan for “old skiing” rituals each year to teach the next generation how to preserve their skiing roots.

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photo: istock

PARTING SHOT

Ski: Cyclic 115 | Binding: Tyrolia Attack 16

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James Heim shot by Blake Jorgenson.

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