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In the Dzong Exploring east Bhutan Hokey Poke Putting Bangkok's poke bowls to the test East Side Story Where to live it up in Phra Khanong Beef it Up DAG is a carnivore's paradise

One step Forward... NO. 781 FEBRUARY 28, 2020. www.bkmagazine.com

THE BK AWARDS

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Phra Khanong

Thai Government House to be turned into exclusive Airbnb BANGKOK, THAILAND—In an effort to boost an economy whose growth has slowed to a molasses-like trickle, reaching a low not seen since the last coup, Thailand’s Prime Minister Prayuth Chan-o-cha revealed plans today to turn the Government House into an exclusive Airbnb rental for luxury travelers. “Our Venetian Gothic property, the Government House Poshtel Home Stay, is surrounded by lush tropical gardens and is located in the heart of the city, a short walk away from such prime attractions as the Grand Palace and Khaosan Road,” said the prime minister, who added that all 20 rooms and suites were currently undergoing renovations and would be “equipped with the latest technology, such as dictionaries, maps and chess sets” by as early as mid-2020. Appearing disheveled and dressed in a suit jacket with visible tears at the elbows, Prayuth explained that the move could generate as much as B1 billion in revenue per year. This would be funneled into a special planning and development fund overseen exclusively by Deputy Prime Minister Prawit Wongsuwan, who was also tapped to serve as concierge of the property. “We have free parking, a choice of Western and Asian breakfasts for an additional B500 per person, a tuk tuk shuttle service and exclusive canal boat tour for VIP guests. If tourists don’t see the value in what we’re offering here at Government House Poshtel Home Stay, let them go to Cambodia instead,” he said, adjusting his moth-eaten necktie as the overhead lights flickered and hammers could be heard pounding away at walls in another room. “Listen to this guest review. ‘Government House Poshtel Home Stay is simply ravishing. Mr. Prawit is truly a super host. He personally showed us the best coffee shops in the Khaosan Road area!’” Prayuth said, reading aloud one of several puzzling guest reviews posted to Airbnb that heaped lavish praise on the property despite it not yet being open for business. When asked how the cabinet would operate within the confines of the law, which currently bars short-term Airbnb rentals, Prayuth initially declined to comment. After a brief silence, he bellowed, “I am the law, you got that?” At press time, Prayuth and his fellow cabinet members could be seen counting the spare change in their pockets and arguing over whose turn it was to pay for the taxi as they exited Government House.

upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

HOT OR NOT The Broken Violin Facebook

FAKE MEAT

Your reptile brain might crave a juicy steak, but you know that plant-based is the move. Now even Sizzler is getting in on the game. Everyone’s favorite regrettable-occasion, casual-dining specialist has just unveiled a couple of special dishes featuring faux meat, including an enlightened take on the most zeitgeisty Thai dish out there: spaghetti gaprao with Omni steak.

Meet the actress turning troubled youths’ lives around through the arts

HOLIDAYS Extra time off? No thanks. Thanks to Prayuth nixing a plan to give the whole country a week off for Songkran rather than just three days, we’ll all be toiling away as usual, helping to reverse the economy’s downward trend. As you blankly stare at spreadsheets those two days of work after the official holiday ends, remember that you are a vital member of society.

INTERVIEW

Besides being named a National Artist in performing arts in 2014, actress, playwright and director Patravadi Mejudhon, a.k.a. Khru Lek, is the founder of Bangkok’s Patravadi Theater and Vic Hua Hin. We caught up with her in Hua Hin about her latest project, The Broken Violin, which aims to turn young people’s lives around through music and performing arts.

What inspired The Broken Violin project? When I was studying art therapy at Chulalongkorn University, I conducted surveys that brought to light the problems faced by youths from broken and unhappy homes. Many troubled children become vulnerable and lost, which can lead them to adopt self-destructive behaviors, such as substance and alcohol abuse, gambling, violence, theft and crime, prostitution, underage pregnancy, computer game addiction and misuse of social media. I came up with this project as a way to help them get through their dark times using art and music instead. What does it entail? Through creative activities, the project aims to improve the psychological well-being of troubled youths from the Baan Kanchanapisek Vocational Juvenile Training Centre for Boys and the Phra Pradaeng Community. We teach them artistic disciplines, including performing arts, music and skateboarding, culminating in a series of live performances.

I recently created the free-to-use Hua Hin Skate Park in my school—Patravadi School. What future do you wish for your students? I want them to enjoy their lives, to be honest to themselves and to do good things for their communities. I hope that they can become healthy adults and future leaders, be bold to share and exchange opinions, and, most crucially, to be good people in society. Do you plan to expand your project outside of Hua Hin? Yes, we would like to expand our vision for helping youths to other places. We are trying to find places that would allow us to use their public spaces for performances, then hopefully we would be able to help young people in those communities, just like we have done in Hua Hin. Waris Teachatripoom

Do you think the government does enough for young people in Thailand? Personally, I think the government should pay more attention to youths. There are not enough public and creative spaces where they can develop their potential and express themselves, be it a place to play or to voice their opinions. That’s why

PSEUDOSCIENCE Pollution is about to be a thing of the past, thanks to the BMTA. The agency has just green-lighted a plan to equip our city buses with air purifiers. As the smoke-billowing giants rattle down our hazy, traffic-choked streets, those purifiers will be sucking up all the pollutants—a system that’s totally supported by real science.

PHOTO OPS A pandemic infects tens of thousands. A gunman kills 29. To you, these might sound like tragedies. To Prudential Thailand, those are golden opportunities for good PR, baby! The agency recently blasted media in Thailand with tasteless press releases featuring staged photos of reps delivering claims checks to families of the deceased. Now that’s how you leverage the moment.

To read the full interview, visit bk.asia-city.com.

SPRING FORWARD, FALL BACK

by Jakkii (FB: @Amateur Artist Mode - by Jakkii)

cover | best in show

THE BK AWARDS

his March marks 19 years since BK put out its first magazine. Since the halcyon days of 2001, we’ve seen a lot of stars rise and fall (oh, hi there, Sorayuth). We’ve also witnessed the city evolve into the fast-paced melting pot it is today. Now, we’re celebrating the trend-setting, rule-breaking, trailblazing, societyshifting and downright awesome people, campaigns and businesses transforming Thailand at the dawn of a new decade. By BK Staff

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 20, 2019

KNOCKOUT MAKING WAVES

PEPTO-BYSMAL

BAND OF THE YEAR: KHANA BIERBOOD

WORST TREND OF THE YEAR: RAW ROTI CHALLENGE

It may have taken the better part of a decade for the Bangsaen-born group, erstwhile known as Strange Brew, to finally release an LP, but the wait was worth it. The seven tracks on Khana Bierbood’s debut Strangers from the Far East recall the fuzzy warmth of 1960s California surf rock, but with a raw, trebly, almost haunting Thai influence. The result is a 23-minute, psychedelia-drenched romp across Thailand’s lapping shores that turn a familiar genre into something strangely, and excitingly, new.

IT’S A RAP SONG OF THE YEAR: “WESTERN UNION” BY DRAIN GANG Thai-born, Sweden-raised Thaiboy Digital dabbles in cloudwave, a micro-genre so thick in haze you can almost feel it coating your brain. In “Western Union” by Drain Gang— the emerging collective the 25-year-old artist frequently collaborates with. You get a sense for the dreamlike droning that marks Thaiboy Digital’s delivery. Whatever your thoughts on cloudwave or any other offshoot of hip-hop, this song is magic, the sound of an artist on the cusp of something big.

EDITOR’S CUT

In the age of viral videos, bad ideas spread across the planet like wildfire—especially if they involve an eating challenge. From cinnamon to Tide Pods, we thought we’d seen it all, until the raw roti challenge crashed onto the scene. It all started when a TikTok user named “lookketfortune” posted a video of her eating raw roti dough, remarking that it tasted sweet and buttery with a Japanese mochi-like consistency. Fortunately, this trend didn’t last long thanks to the Ministry of Public Health.

ID, PLEASE COMEBACK OF THE YEAR: FALLABELLA Students who attended Chula or Thammasat between the years 2004-14 know that Fallabella’s “Italian restaurant” guise was simply a cover for the city’s best-loved underage drinking den, complete with a secret Monkey Bar room. Now, the infamous party spot has been reborn on Thonglor in all its neon-purple and ceiling-draped glory. You may not be able to smoke indoors anymore but you can still go wild on the dance floor to live bands while reliving your naughties heyday.

FOR THE LOLS

BEST FILM: “HOPE FROZEN” Thai-American journalist and filmmaker Pailin Wedel’s first feature-length documentary follows the Naovaratpong family, who had their two-year-old daughter cryogenically preserved in Arizona in the hopes of bringing her back to life in the future. More than a meditation on grief, the film—beautifully shot, edited and soundtracked—reflects on love, karma, science and technology, leaving space for viewers to grapple with life’s difficult questions. It’s little wonder this documentary has already won awards at film festivals in Canada, South America and Asia.

SOCIAL PAGE OF THE YEAR: LOWCOSTCOSPLAY Anucha “Cha” Saengchart never fails to amaze us and his 4.7 million Facebook followers with his eccentric yet brilliant cosplaying. Dressing up as everything from anime characters to current pop icon Billie Eilish, he makes use of cheap, everyday objects to hilarious—and, honestly, amazing—effect. If you’re having a shitty day at work, have a peep at his Facebook page for a minute or two (just don’t get caught by your boss!).

ALL THE DRAMA

BALLOTS IN

BEST TV SERIES: “MY AMBULANCE”

MOMENT OF THE YEAR: (FAKE) ELECTION

Starring two of Thailand’s favorite Eurasians, Sunny Suwanmethanont and Davika “Mai’’ Hoorne, and the young heartthrob Wongravee “Sky” Nateetorn, “My Ambulance” is about a love triangle between two doctors and a girl who uses her magical powers to call for help. Despite its slightly irritating (but saleable) theme song, this not-your-typical rom-com/fantasy drama has pulled the heartstrings of many (younger) Thais nationwide.

In 2019, we finally welcomed back our longlost democracy. Just kidding. After a five year hiatus, the Thai general election returned as a puppet theater. First, the committee’s transparency was questioned to no avail, then things got weirder when ballots mysteriously started to reproduce inside the box—not to mention the fact that a deceased grandma evidently rose from the dead to cast her vote. Oh yeah, and don’t forget the part where the NCPO handpicked 250 pro-junta senators right before the election, then acted like nothing happened. Smooth, real smooth.

BADASS OF THE YEAR: LOMA LOOKBOONME Buriram-born 24-year-old Loma Lookboonmee made history last October, when she not only became the first Thai mixed martial artist to fight professionally in the UFC, but also won her debut match. The winner of nine regional muay Thai titles, Asian Games gold medalist, Thai national team representative and fastrising MMA star fell in love with fighting after seeing her father elbow his opponent in the face during a muay Thai match when she was a child. We sure wouldn’t mess with her.

time environmental activist who runs the Bangkok branch of Precious Plastic, a community-based recycling initiative that originated in the Netherlands. Using simple-to-build machines to turn plastic waste into new products, the initiative’s goal is to try and change society’s attitudes towards plastic pollution and to help people view plastic as a valuable resource. Last year, Dominic launched a plastic drop-off network across Bangkok then upcycled the donations into a whole range of different lifestyle products, like colorful bowls, lampshades and plant pots.

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

IT’S ART

ENTREPRENEUR OF THE YEAR: CHANYA “O” THONGTHAI

ARTIST YOU NEED TO KNOW: ORAWAN ARUNRAK

Since returning to Bangkok from London, this young gun jewelry designer has been revolutionizing Thai gemstones. Her pieces have been commissioned by celebs spanning Lourde, The Weeknd, M.I.A., Swae Lee, A$AP Rocky and, most recently, Pharrell Williams. Her best piece of business advice? “Sometimes you’ll feel like a failure, but you haven’t really failed unless you’ve given up.”

This 34-year-old artist is, quite literally, going places. She has held residencies in Vietnam, Cambodia, Sri Lanka—she was even the recipient of the highly respected DAAD artist-in-residence in Berlin. Last year, the globe-trotting artist and former assistant curator for the BACC brought her people-oriented work back home with “Counting,” her first solo exhibition in Bangkok. Held at Bangkok CityCity Gallery, the installation turned everyday conversations with people she met in Berlin and Bangkok into physical manifestations, blocks of concrete containing sketches and stories.

WORLD WAR ECO-WARRIOR: PUWASAWAT “DOMINIC” CHAKRABONGSE OF PRECIOUS PLASTIC BANGKOK With a bachelor of science in environmental policy from The London School of Economics, Dominic is a full-

HAUNTING BEST NEW WRITER: PITCHAYA SUDBANTHAD Pitchaya Sudbanthad’s debut novel “Bangkok Wakes to Rain,” named a notable book of the year by The New York Times and The Washington Post, deals with ghosts: the ghosts of violence, the ghosts of memory, the ghosts of disaster, despair and distance. In a style that draws to mind David Mitchell’s time-bending “Cloud Atlas,” the Thailand-born, Brooklyn-based author weaves together vignettes told across different centuries, treating time like a fluid construct. This novel feels like both a love letter and an elegy to Bangkok.

cover | best in show

ON THE ROAD THE URBAN PLANNER WE NEED: SITTAN “AUNG” CHALONGTHAM The BMA can blame street vendors for Bangkok’s sprained ankle epidemic all they like, but that’s not going to fix the sorry state of the city’s sidewalks. Through his Facebook page, “The Sidewalk: Lok Kwang Kang Tang Tao” (Better Sidewalk, Better World), this activist is returning power to the pedestrians by creating a space for his 63,980 followers to share their photos, videos and experiences of Bangkok’s sidewalks. In the long run, he hopes to pressure authorities into reevaluating their prioritization of cars over people. For now, he’s satisfied with creating awareness among drivers and sparking debate.

OH, SNAP UP-AND-COMING PHOTOGRAPHER: PHICHAI KEAWVICHIT Phichai lives a dual life as a full-time motorbike taxi driver and a part-time photographer. He started pursuing his

passion at the age of 43, capturing urban beauty in a minimalist, abstract style. He exhibited his work in Bangkok last year under the title “Accidentally Professional,” and his ability to frame seemingly unremarkable buildings as artwork has garnered a 74k-strong Instagram following. His advice for finding your passion? “Don’t think, just feel.”

GREAT BUILD GAME-CHANGING ARCHITECT: KOTCHAKORN VORAAKHOM With far more concrete than canals these days, Bangkok is sinking 2cm per year and by 2030 could be below sea level. Lucky for us Harvard-educated TED fellow Kotchakorn Voraakhom is working to keep us above water. The founder of landscape architecture firm Landprocess and designer of the Centenary Park at Chulalongkorn University unveiled a 91-rai park at Rangsit’s Thammasat University in 2019. The 7,000-sqmeter Puay Park not only stores excess rainwater. It also features Asia’s largest urban rooftop farm and is totally solarpowered. More, please.

YOU MOVE ME COOLEST STARTUP: MUVMI Maybe you’ve noticed: public transportation in Bangkok can, at times, be inconvenient. MuvMi, a startup under Chula University’s “Chula Smart City” campaign provides both convenience and clean energy with their all-electric tuk-tuks. Running predominantly around Chula, MuvMi solves the headache of not being able to reach the BTS and the MRT from multiple smaller sois around the area. Plus, you can use their app to book either shared rides or rides on demand.

GLOWING PRAISE BRAND YOU NEED TO KNOW: ATHIT A Thai skincare brand that finally embraces natural tanned skin? We’ll drink to that! While the country’s skincare market is practically screaming “lighter skin = more beautiful,” Athit celebrates natural beauty with products that help minimize blemishes, while elevating your skin’s natural glow. We love the Sunbeam Radiating Tanning Booster Serum (B950) with aloe vera and hyaluronic acid—just add a few drops to your moisturiser or face oil and you’ll be showing off radiant, sunkissed skin in under 10 hours.

MINTY FRESH ECO-FRIENDLY BRAND: CHEWW.CO Started in March 2019, Thailand’s first plastic-free toothpaste brand is on a mission to see Thais go tube-free. The company is run by a team of five, including two pharmacists. Packaged in ‘grammable recyclable glass containers, these tablets contain natural sweeteners (sorbitol and mannitol), which can be found in root vegetables and berries; mint essential oils, which have antibacterial properties; salt, to help soothe your gums; and a foaming agent extracted from coconuts.

AD OF THE YEAR: CHAINDRITE BUG SPRAY All-powerful bug spray Chaindrite took Thailand’s ridiculous ad game to a whole new level with its recent longform commercial. Portraying the untimely demise of a cheeky, overconfident family of termites (played by humans in costume, of course), the hilariously dark two-and-ahalf-minute rollercoaster follows the smug antagonist—who is apparently immune to the spray—as he returns to his den,

unwittingly spreading the poison to his other brothers, who all die. Perhaps it’s a little close to the bone in the current climate, but this is classic Thai humor at its best—so brilliant, in fact, that it went viral on 9gag and has 2.9 million views on YouTube.

GASPING APP OF THE YEAR: AIRVISUAL Seriously, are you really that surprised? Since the end of last year, PM2.5 levels in Bangkok have continued to escalate to hazardous levels, shrouding the city with thick grey smog so bad we thought we’re living in Silent Hill. On Jan 8 this year, Bangkok recorded the world’s third worst air quality on AirVisual, a popular air monitoring app that provides real-time air pollution levels wherever you are.

CENSORED FAIL, BUT WE LOVE THE EFFORT: PLASTIC BAG CENSORSHIP Since the single-use plastic bag ban came into effect on Jan 1, the whole nation has quickly adapted by bringing tote bags and other less mainstream receptacles to the supermarkets. Surely, the reason for the campaign’s success lies in the shrewd decision to blur plastic bags on TV—with censorship’s proven track record of eliminating alcohol and cigarette use in Thailand, it was a no brainer. Denying that it was a government call, the environment minister explained that the censorship of plastic bags by TV stations was “wellintentioned.”

420 BEST MASCOT: DR. GANJA With the advent of legal medical marajuana in Thailand, this cute critter was born to promote a new government cannabis clinic. Like a little green Jesus, he’s here to spread the gospel of weed—a cure-all that can save you from insomnia, Parkinson’s disease and cancer, to name a few—while blessing us with iconic images of the PM clutching his plushie form on stage. With his cute smile and tiny lab coat, we can almost forget the fact that the “Dr.Ganja in TTM” app that he accompanies originally required Mon and Karen users to register as “immigrant fugitives,” among other racist blips.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

11 09

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hit list EXHIBITION

3 Essential events happening now Green Day Hailed as “the greatest living punk band” by NME, American pop-rock legends Green Day hit Bangkok’s Impact Arena in support of their latest album, Father of all… this Mar 11. The five-time Grammy Award-winner’s “Hella Mega” tour is already in full swing and is set to head through Europe and the US after finishing up in Asia. Formed in 1986, Green Day rose to fame in the ‘90s following the success of their third album Dookie (1994), though fans can expect to hear more recent hits from American Idiot (2004) and Revolution Radio (2016) alongside the classics. Over their 20+ years together, they’ve made 13 albums, with Billie Joe Armstrong as their front man, and have sold more than 85 million records worldwide. B2,000-4,000 via Livenation.com

Fem Film Festival Alternative cinema Bangkok Screening Room will be celebrating International Women’s Day with five female-driven films this Mar 6-8. The second Fem Film Festival will gather films that reflect on the struggles and accomplishments of women in business, politics, love and life. The line-up includes Canadian Screen Award nominee “Meditation Park” (2018) and “Daisies” (1966), a new wave film about two subversive teenage girls. If you’re a fashion junkie, don’t miss “Yellow is Forbidden” (2018), a documentary detailing the hopes and dreams of up-and-coming Chinese dressmaker Guo Pei. Every movie will be screened with both Thai and English subtitles and many will be making their Thailand debut. For the full list of showtimes and to buy tickets, visit bkksr. com. Woof Pack, 1/3-7 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 090906-3888. From B240

Artbat

Kolour in the Park Bangkok’s biggest music festival is almost upon us. In what is possibly the most exciting—and eclectic— line-up in Kolour’s eight year history, major names include Ukrainian electronic duo Artbat, whose uplifting remix of Monolink’s galactic “Return to Oz” has garnered 6.8 million views on YouTube; South African DJ and producer Black Coffee, whose heartwrenching tune “Drive” features the likes of David Guetta; German DJ Mousse T, whose ‘90s house smash hit “Horny ‘98” broke the world charts ; and American rapper Oddisee, known for his hard-hitting, politically-charged lyrics on tracks like “You Grew Up.” Mar 7. Thai Wake Park, Lumlukka. From B1,700

SOMETHING NOUVEAU

HH Hot on the heels of hosting two successful multimedia exhibitions, “From Monet to Kandinsky” and “Italian Renaissance,” River City Bangkok has rolled out yet another iconic number, this time dedicated to the masters of Art Nouveau. The exhibit offers an eye-opening look at the artistic aftermath of the industrial revolution, revealing the movement’s love of the delicate forms of nature and the female figure. Yet here, instead of experiencing the illustrations, prints and paintings of Gustav Klimt, Aubrey Beardsley and Alphonse Mucha in the flesh, the works are exhibited in immersive projections, featuring 3D and VR installations. Impressive as it may be, the exhibition does not offer quite the same impact as the previous two—perhaps because the format simply has lost its initial “wow” factor.

Through Apr 16. River City Bangkok, 23 Charoenkrung Soi 24, 02-237-7608. B350

Star Ratings Give it a miss H HH Worth your time HHH Must go

“Daisies”

BK ASKS

Sandy Chuchat, Artist

What are your favorite art galleries? ATT19 is probably the most impressive space I’ve seen in Bangkok; I love that it’s both elegant and raw. What exhibitions are you looking forward to? Her Love at Yelo House. Who’s your favorite artist? I’m a big fan of René Magritte. I saw his exhibition at Tate Liverpool ages ago and have been in love with him ever since. He’s one of my biggest influences. Who is up-and-coming in the art world? Chloe Wise. She’s a painter based in New York. Her work is amazing and I’m addicted to her Instagram stories (she’s super funny).

What does your ideal Saturday look like? Cafe-hopping around Charoenkrung, visiting a couple of exhibitions and popping by Soi Nana (Chinatown) for a few drinks.

hit list | shopping

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

This sustainable lifestyle space is more than a bulk store

NEW OPENING

Normal Supattharachai, the founder of Zero Factory—a zero waste project championing a sustainable future for Thailand—has recently opened Sunflower, an eco-friendly lifestyle shop-slash-studio near Pak Khlong Talat. His mission? To show people that it’s not difficult to live a zero waste lifestyle. Step inside the quaint shop and you’ll be greeted with shelves displaying refill products—shampoo, shower gel, dishwashing liquid, toilet cleaners—but Sunflower is more than just a bulk store. Besides boasting a range of eco-friendly products, the store also houses a ceramics studio and a small slow bar serving coffee and refreshing drinks. That means you can bring your empty containers of shampoo, shower gel and detergent to refill (B16/100g dishwashing liquid; B90/100g shampoo and shower gel) as well as browsing stylish reusable items including silicone straws (B79), Kinto tumblers (B1,280) and versatile totes (B495) from IBagU. Alongside eco-friendly products, you can peruse collections of dreamy ceramic mugs (from B990) and plates (B1,000) from Flowers in the Vase, founded by Normal’s partner Pipatcha Thanasomboon. 174 Asadang Rd., 089-208-8881. Open Tue-Sat 1-8pm

SNAP AND SHOOT

3 affordable color negative film developers

B100 Film No Ie Sukhumvit Soi 71. Open daily 10am-5pm

B120 Luck Room P.P. Place, Lad Prao Soi 18. Open Mon-Fri 11am-9pm; Sat-Sun 1-9pm

FASHION

MARKET

TECH

Nike turns trash into treasure for its latest sneakers

Nurture your creative side at this art market

A retro-inspired camera for on-trend hobbyists

On Mar 6-8, Langsuan’s lifestyle community mall Velaa Sindhorn Village is joining with young-blood designer collective Happening and Friends to host Velaa Art Market by Happening. The three-day event will gather more than 50 local brands for a hip art and craft fair featuring everything from aromatic home goods and ceramics to phone cases and clothing; participants include Wax Valley Candle Co., 12c Studio, NYYYDesign and Punch Whale, among others. You can also expect various art workshops, plus food and booze from Co Limited and Crimson Room. Langsuan Soi 87, 02-253-8999

What: Fujifilm X-Pro3 Price: From B59,990 Why? This mirrorless snapper tastefully combines the retro flourishes of classic rangefinder cameras with the latest technology. Notable features include the scratch-resistant titanium finish; an upgraded hybrid viewfinder that lets you switch between electronic and optical modes; a “hidden” LCD screen that can be flipped open to check on images between shots; and a new film simulation mode in “Classic Negative” that delivers similar colors to Fujicolor Superia. Available at ZoomCamera, 2/F, Siam Paragon

In a bid to reduce the carbon footprint of its products and redefine sustainable fashion, Nike has unveiled a new line of sneakers made entirely of waste materials. Dubbed the Space Hippie, the collection transforms scrap material from Nike’s factory floors—or “space junk” as the brand calls it—into four rebelliously cool silhouettes. The uppers of the four models are built from “space waste yarn” made of 100 -percent recycled material, while the inner and outer soles are constructed from recycled foam. Available at nike.com

Shop Talk B150 Flashbox Ari Soi 5. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8:30pm; Sat-Sun 10am-9pm

How to spend your hardearned baht.

BUY IT COLLAPSIBLE STAINLESS STRAW Go eco-friendly with this handy and easy-to-clean reusable straw; B280. Available at refillstationbkk.com

BIN IT FAKE CASETIFY PHONE CASES We know that Casetify’s boarding pass phone cases are all the rage, but getting fake ones ain’t cool.

BARGAIN EVERYDAY KMKM X ABSOLUTE SIAM STORE Get up to 10-percent off Everyday Karmakamet candles, bucket hats, T-shirts and more at multi-label store Absolute Siam; now-Mar 31

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

food & drink | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

HOT OFF THE PASS

Don’t miss these awesome Top Tables Champions menus BOOK IT

From Mar 26 to Apr 11, some of the city’s most creative kitchens are rolling out special multi-course menus for Top Tables Champions. We couldn’t be more excited about this year’s jaw-dropping line-up, which features names you won’t find participating anywhere else— think Le Normandie, 80/20, Le Du, Savelberg, Upstairs, Haoma and many more. Pre-booking for is now open. That means you’ll need to act fast if you want to sample the incredible one-off menus conjured up by our top-tier participants. Those include a feast of yellowfin tuna poke, juicy meatball yakitori, uni pasta and more at Jua (B1,500 for four courses); mouthwatering grilled chicken with tumeric glaze and comforting gourd and soup with fermented fish at Michelin-starred 80/20 (B1,800 for seven dishes); Meditterranean mussels and Australian wagyu at La Bottega di Luca (B1,600 for four courses); and so much more. Visit toptables. asia/champions for the full line-up.

HANGOVER CURE

GOURMET GREENS

WELL, WELL

Ocken’s comforting new brunch is filled with surprises

This food festival celebrates organic produce

Issaya’s Ian Kittichai is behind this healthy opening

Sathorn’s experimental fusion joint, Ocken, has just launched an awesome new weekend brunch menu. Now infamous treats like the OcMuffin (B260) have been joined by other equally comforting bites like the crispy fish burger (B280)—a luxe take on McDonald’s Fillet-O-Fish—and a grilled Cubano sandwich (B340) with juicy mojo (citrus-garlic) marinated pork shoulder, ham, salami and fiery mustard and pickles. Wash it all down with bottomless house coffee (B140) or a smoked bloody Mary (B280). 1/F, Bhiraj Tower, 31 South Sathorn Rd., 082-091-6174. Brunch is available Sat-Sun from 10:30am-2:30pm

137 Pillars’ Organic Gourmet Festival returns this month with a farmers’ market (Feb 27-29, Mar 1, 5-8, 4-10pm), healthy cooking demonstrations and wellness activities. A series of gala dinners by chefs David Thompson (Feb 28), Malcolm Lee of Singapore’s Michelin-starred Peranakan restaurant, Candlenut (Mar 6), and more will be followed by afterparties overseen by top mixologists, including Mel Chavez of Tippling Club, Singapore, (Feb 28) and Kris Du of Shanghai’s Speak Low (Mar 6). 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39

Celebrity chef Pongtawat “Ian Kittichai” Chalermkittichai, of homey Thai restaurant Issaya Siamese Club, has teamed up with Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort for Khum Hom. Charting four regions of Thailand, the “Farmer’s Menu” utilizes local, organic ingredients in plant-based, gluten-free dishes like yum hed (B340), while the four-to-five-course “Tasting Menu” (from B1,990) features gaeng kua neua, a yellow curry with beef short ribs, and som chun, a bitter orange dessert with lychee sorbet, crispy shallots and young ginger in sweet syrup. 2 Witthayu Rd., 02-666-3333

ZERO TO A HUNDRED Chef Chalee Kader is gearing up to unveil a second branch of his awesome Isaan restaurant, 100 Mahaseth, on Ekkamai. Details are yet to be announced but you can expect it to open within the coming months.

POK POK, WHO’S THERE? American chef, restaurateur and cookbook author Andy Ricker is returning to Bangkok this March. Known for his mini Thai restaurant empire, Pok Pok, in the US, the chef will be bringing pan-Asian menus of skewers, bao and bak kut teh to Jua on Mar 7 and Err on Mar 8.

SWEET NECTAR Love desserts? Love booze? Then keep your eye on the soon-to-open Capella, whose signature cocktail bar Stella is set to focus on dessert-inspired creations under the creative eye of William Pravda—the creator of the now world-famous soft-serve Negroni.

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food & drink

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

ADVERTORIAL

FEAST OF A DEAL

Fresh Tastes

These three restaurants emphasize the freshest local produce Bo.lan

Saawaan

How: Bo.lan offers a traditional approach to Thai food with ingredients sourced from local farmers and grown onsite. The five-to-six-course menu changes quarterly based on the season’s freshest produce. Expect dishes like squid from Pak Bara Pier in Satul stir-fried with chicken liver and herbs, served with jasmine rice from Yasothon and organic Gaba rice harvested in Sisaket.

How: Set in a converted shophouse, Saawaan uses local ingredients from all over Thailand to create innovative dishes with delicate flavors. Highlights include stir-fried Samut Songkhram mud crab with stink beans and Bai Liang leaves, panang (yellow curry) with Andaman black grouper fish and eggplant, and charcoal grilled Nakhon Pathom quail. A tea pairing menu is also available.

24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2962. Open Wed-Sat 6-10pm; Thu-Sun noon-2pm. BTS Thong Lo

39/19 Suanphlu Rd., 02-679-3775. Open daily 6pm-midnight (Last order at 9:30pm)

Come 4 pay 3 for set lunch menu on Thu-Fri 01 Jan ’20 - 31 Mar ’20

PRU

Get a complimentary drink valued THB 360 when spending THB 2,450++ via Citi credit card (limit 1 glass/person/table/ sales slip) 01 Mar ’20 - 31 Mar ’21

How: Head chef Jim Ophorst works with local producers such as the restaurant’s neighboring goat farmers and even goes foraging himself to source beautiful ingredients. The menu even states the origins of each dish’s ingredients.

Bo.lan

Trisara Resort Phuket, 60/1 Srisoonthorn Road, 076-310-232. Open daily 6-10:30pm

Get a complimentary drink valued THB 500 when spending via Citi credit card (limit 1 drink /card /table /sales slip) 01 Feb ’20 - 31 Jan ’21

PRU

Brought to you by Citi

Saawaan

food & drink | open doors

Let your hair down at Kintsugi by Jeff Ramsey The buzz: American-Japanese chef Jeff Ramsey has taken time away from his creative Japanese tapas restaurant, Babe, in KL, to open a kaiseki restaurant where you can let your hair down. The vibe: Classic blond wood and minimalist vertical lines are given a contemporary edge with abstract bronze light clusters, black marble and a rustic, flowing wood table, setting the scene for chef Ramsey’s laid-back approach to traditional kaiseki (multi-course) dining. Get up close to the action at the counter, take one of the tables separated by slatted screens, or book one of the two private dining rooms complete with sunken 10-seat horigotatsu tables. The food: Combining his mixed heritage with a CV that includes becoming a Master Sushi Chef, opening Tokyo’s Michelin-starred Molecular Bar and launching his fun-loving Japanese tapas restaurant Babe, chef Ramsey brings some serious clout to the kitchen. His non-stuffy approach to traditional Japanese kaiseki takes a globe-trotting turn. Part French, part Japanese, the Shirako Brandade sees the traditional salt cod and potato emulsion combined with cod milt and served as a creamy espuma topped with a zesty yuzu kimizu—a vinegar dressing that stems from a little known, 300-year-old technique used in edomae sushi. The dish is served with a crisp flatbread disguised as kombu—one of a

few subtle theatrics that punctuate the menu. Another sees plumes of vapor rising from the umami-rich Nagano Walnut Soba thanks to the addition of dry ice “walnut oil snow.” The Charcoal Grilled Tachiuo takes a less showy approach, featuring seasonal belt fish intensified by miso and kelp marinade partnered with grated daikon radish and house-brewed soy sauce. Finish with an indulgent “Kin Kat”—chilled roasted foie gras and cognac in a dark chocolate shell sandwiched between a crisp monaka wafer. Served in three tiers—nine-course "Ito" (B2,488); 12-course "Kin" (B3,788); and 15-course Omakase (B6,388)—the menus change seasonally, with items also available to order a la carte (from B120-840). The drinks: Go traditional with sake, from the Hakutsuru nama (B390/bottle) to the Sempuku Miyajimaemaki ginjo-shu (B1,980/ bottle), or opt for the refreshing Athenee Hugo (B350), a mix of lemongrass, lime, mint, elderflower, sparkling wine and soda. Why we’d come back: Chef Ramsey makes an often stiff type of dining approachable, challenging the boundaries of Japanese cuisine while adapting to the seasons and the local palate. Angela Symons 3/F, The Athenee Hotel, 61 Wireless Rd., 02-650-8800 Open Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

Omakase Ki Shin

NEW AND NOTED

This leafy hang-out is all about wood-fired pizza

Mini golf bars are exploding across Bangkok

Check out Thonglor’s sleek new omakase counter

Located in Nanglinchee’s De For Rest community mall, Foresta Woodfired Pizza (8/11 Nanglinchee Rd.) is filled with natural light and hanging ferns, its white walls licked with paintings of plants and giant pizza slices. The signature Crying Tiger pizza (B489) is a must-try, topped with smoked brisket, mozzarella, pickles, tomato and barbecue sauce and cooked in the wood-fired oven. Veggies can opt for the spinach and ricotta pasta instead (B299). If you’re chilling in the leafy garden area with friends, snack on some buffalo wings (B159) as you sip on Chang (B90) or wine by the glass (B150).

It seems The Shot isn’t the only bar in town offering putting and cocktails. Located across town in Phra Khanong, The Turn (5/F, King Thong Stationery Building, 1092 Sukhumvit Rd., 095524-4371) features an 18-hole indoor course with walls covered in colorful murals of birds by local artists. Games are priced at B300 (or B200 for children), while pocket-friendly beers and wine come in under B100. Head there on Mon-Thu (6-9pm) to take advantage of their current promotion: B150 per game and all drinks B60, or head there daily to get two rounds and two drinks for B500.

With two 12-person seatings per night, Omakase Ki Shin (3/F, Ginza Zone Nikko Hotel, 27 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 063070-0069) sees former Sushi Zo chef Satoshi Tsuru preside over seasonal omakase-style tasting menus. In two tiers, guests are treated to sushi bites incorporating premium ingredients like uni (B4,500 for an appetizer, 12 pieces of sushi and two desserts, or B6,500 for three appetizers, 14 pieces of sushi and two desserts). With experience in Tokyo and New York, chef Satoshi favors a laid-back vibe in a space that’s classic yet modern, with brown leather seats lining the counter and Japanese murals on black walls.

TABLE TALK

Flying Chicken 1/F, Central Festival Eastville, 02-553-6187. Open daily 11am-9pm Located on the first floor of Central Festival Eastville, Flying Chicken offers Isaan dishes with explosive flavors. You can start by trying the whole roasted chicken, which comes with deliciously crispy skin, chilli dip, and nam jim jaew (sweet and spicy dipping sauce). Don't miss the som tam kor tor mor (spicy papaya salad with fermented crab and acacia beans) or the hearty gaeng om (northern Thai herbal soup) with meat options like baby pork ribs, chicken, and beef shank.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on a la carte menu only 01 Feb ’20 – 31 Jul ’20

food & drink | open doors

Benares

TABLE TALK

Baannai 102/13 Kamphaeng Phet 5 Rd., 02-619-7430. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-9pm Tucked inside a colonial house, this boutique hotel-slashrestaurant serves family recipes at their finest. Highlights include the yum dok mai baannai (a spicy salad with crispy fried edible flower and minced pork), gaeng moo yang bai chaplhu (yellow curry with roasted pork and chaplhu leaves) and nam prik long rua (chilli dip served with fresh vegetables). There are also some hard–to-find Thai desserts available, including the kanom pra phai-velvety dumplings stuffed with mung beans and served in coconut milk.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip 01 Jan ’20 – 30 Jun ’20

Mono Sei

NEW AND NOTED

Contemporary Indian fusion food hits Sukhumvit

Splash out at this premium omakase counter

Culinary hot shots join hands for this Thai restaurant

Benares (G/F, 15 Sukhumvit Residence Building, 12/499 Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02-023-2113) offers a crosscultural, Indian-Italian menu of khichdi arancini (south Indian-style rice and lentil dumplings with cheese, cashews, spices and smoked bell pepper chutney, topped with wafer thin dosa crisps; B350) and makhrani tangri chicken drumstick kebabs (B295). Meanwhile, the tasting menus (from B650 for a five-course vegetarian lunch or B990 for a seven-course dinner) feature the likes of compressed watermelon and mint salads with dahi puri and parmesan chicken tikka with tomato chutney and black olive 'soil.' With black and gold seating beneath a ceiling covered in warm hanging bulbs, the setting is lavishly OTT.

Helmed by three highly trained Japanese chefs, Mono Sei (973 Ploenchit Rd., 094-654-6326) is tucked away in the Intercontinental Hotel behind a barely marked door. Exclusivity permeates the intimate venue, with its floor-to-ceiling wooden slatted screens, elegant umbrella wall decor and sleek L-shaped blond-wood counter. The 24-course menu (B12,000) draws together premium ingredients from across the globe—think ankimo (monkfish liver) poached in dashi sauce (Japanese soup stock); mushi awabi (steamed abalone); shabu shabu Matsusaka beef; and sushi bearing uni (sea urchin), otoro (fatty tuna), anago (sea eel) and shiro ebi (white shrimp), topped off with gold leaf and caviar.

Jaew Jim Thompson (16 Soi Somkid, 02-017-7268) is led by Candadian chef Andrew Martin—formerly of Nahm, Bo.lan, 80/20 and Issaya Siamese Club and the recipient of Top Tables' Best Young Chef Award 2017. He brings rare local ingredients to dishes like the Nam Prik Gluay Polamai Ruam (B170), a sweet and sour banana chili relish served with pickled rose apple, and Moo Tom Kati Kanom Jeeb (B360)—curried pork dumplings, grilled pork neck and fresh coconut cream. Exotic desserts like the Farang Nai Tatad (B220)—pink guava sorbet, chrysanthemum cream, pomelo curd and candied karonda—come courtesy of pastry chef Elle Cowan, previously of Bunker and Ocken.

food & drink | taste test

Who Makes Bangkok’s best… poke bowl?

Luer Jai

The taste: Winner! With big, fresh chunks of salmon mixed with cubes of cucumber, mushrooms, tamago egg, edamame, shredded nori, tobiko (fish roe) and fiery Thai chili piled on top of tasty riceberry, this fusion bowl is just perfect for the Thai palate. Verdict: Mini heart. Price: B229 4/F Siam Square One, 388 Rama I Rd.

Ohana

Runner The taste: Up! Though the tangy, mustardy, toxic-looking yellow sauce has us approaching with caution, this bowl hits the mark with its California rolllike combo of salmon, nori, crunchy edamame, tobiko, cucumber and onion with a surprise hit of sweet diced pineapple. Verdict: Dayum! Price: B299

With origins in ancient Hawaii, these colorful containers of marinated raw fish, rice, fruit and veggies shot to fame during the last decade’s health food movement. Now, countries across the world are putting their own stamp on poke—and Thailand’s no exception. We put six of Bangkok’s most popular salmon poke bowls to the test to see who’s got the magic formula. By BK Staff

3/F, All Seasons Place, Witthayu Rd.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

Hunter Poke The taste: For some of us, this authentic-tasting bowl of super-fresh salmon, juicy mango, sesame seeds, avocado, pomelo and spicy, creamy sauce is a winner. For others, the ripe mango and spicy chili overpower the taste. We can all agree that the crispy fried shallots are a nice touch. Verdict: Mixed messages. Price: B320

Whale Belly Poke Bar The taste: Glistening with a shiny, overly-sweet brown sauce, this bowl of salmon, sesame, seaweed and edamame is overpowered by the earthy taste of beetroot and pickled ginger. It kind of tastes like a bowl of leftovers. Verdict: Raid the fridge. Price: B299

335 Thonglor Soi 17

2/F, True Digital Park, 101 Sukhumvit Rd.

Shari Shari

Poke Me

The taste: This visually appealing bowl of salmon, mango, seaweed, tamago egg, sesame seeds and tobiko goes nicely with the shoyu sauce, but the fish doesn’t taste the freshest and we can’t help thinking, isn’t this donburi? Verdict: I think I’m turning Japanese. Price: B220 2/F, Glowfish, Sathorn Thani 2 Building, North Sathorn Rd.

The taste: Do Yikes we have the wrong order?— the shreds of carrot look straight out of somtam. The, frozen-tasting salmon smells odd, like it’s been wood-smoked, and the only other ingredients are mango, cucumber and rice, making for a very sad bowl. Verdict: Poked out. Price: B189 7/F, Central World, 999/9 Rama I Rd.

dining reviews

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 20, 2019

DAG HHHH Warehouse 30, Charoenkrung Soi 30, 087-363-2629. Open daily noon-9:30pm

Beyond-impossible plant-based “meat” may be all the rage right now but, as DAG reminds us, nothing comes close to the juicy satisfaction of the real thing. Run by the guys behind Rarb (Phra Athit Road’s former nose-to-tail Isaan specialist) and burger institution Escapade, this eccentric eatery brings communal-style dining to Charoenkrung’s Warehouse 30. On a recent visit, our carnivorous cravings are activated by the tantalizing aroma of grilled meat wafting down the walkway from the restaurant’s black-metal-framed glass door. A masculine, industrial vibe pervades the spacious dining room, dominated by black walls, long dark marble tables and an exposed warehouse-style ceiling, all thinly veiled in smoke. Throw in the shelf full of Chalermpon “Van” Rohitratana’s fermentation experiments (think frog guts, saba fish and ripe mangoes), a few bull skulls and a groovy playlist of luk thung and molam remixes and you begin to understand the lighthearted yet rebellious spirit of DAG. Despite prior warnings about the service, we find the staff are more than happy to offer their recommendations from the weekly-changing menu as we make our order at the counter, and the dishes come out at lightning speed. From the local meatfilled line-up of burgers, skewers, rice bowls and Rarb-inspired secondary cuts, we go for the deep-fried beef (B340); with its tender texture, savory-sweet marinade, zingy tamarind-based chili sauce and sprinkle of crispy fried garlic, we’re reminded of why this is such a great starter and begin mull-

ing over a second helping. Instead, we save space for the beautifully diced, melt-in-yourmouth northeastern spicy pork liver (B160), which brims with toasted rice, herbs and the right amount of lime juice. It gets better: a drool-in ducing, double lamb burger with truffle and cheddar cheese (B360) that makes us weak at the knees with its umami flavor, juicy dribbles and succulent medium-rare texture. Our world continues to be rocked by the grilled ox tongue rice bowl (B440), topped with an exquisitely runny onsen egg. Intense meaty flavors, in our book, call for plenty of craft beer to wash it all down. Unfortunately, we’re stuck with just one option in Whale Pale Ale (B240), though the potent New Game Fashion (B350)—a riff off the classic old fashioned with chocolate bitters—and the super-refreshing, gin-based Lemon Thyme Tonic (B350) act as recompense. With chef Van’s primal approach to cooking and painstaking DIY techniques, DAG is sure as hell adventurous, but it’s these unpretentious dishes combined with the familiarity of nostalgic Thai flavors that guarantees repeat visits. Order: Double lamb burger with truffle and cheddar cheese (B360), grilled ox tongue rice bowl (B440), New Game Fashion (B350)

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Open to Thai and foreign nationals Internships are full-time, unpaid and last 3 months.

Candidates should be fluent in both Thai and English. Send your resume and a cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th

travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

CHA-AM

Rock out to reggae at this beachside festival

This restaurant revives a 130year-old mansion

CHIANG MAI

After 70 years of disuse, a 130-year-old teakwood mansion that used to house Chiang Mai’s first general store has been reborn as Kiti Panit General Store. Decorated with rusty bicycles, antique furniture and old black and white photographs of Chiang Mai, the restaurant relies on Sawaan’s chef Sujira “Aom” Pongmorn and Ici’s pastry chef Arisara “Paper” Chongphanitkul for its menu of northern Thai staples. Head there for khao soi gai (B290), sai oua (B160) and nam prik num (B150), as well as deeper regional cuts like yam bai cha muk (fermented tea leaf salad, B190). The desserts also stick to Thai flavors, like pineapple cheesecake (B220), grilled pandan-flavored mango sticky rice (B220) and durian tart (B220).19 Thapae Rd., Chiang Mai. 088-949-7996. Open daily 11:30am-11pm

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If you’re not already booked in for Kolour in the Park on Mar 7, then Cha-am’s Sunset Beach Music Fest could be your ticket out of town. Forget techno and house, this beachside blowout is all about reggae, ska and molam music, with a local line-up starring T-bone, Srirajah Rockers, Job 2 Do, Taitosmith, The Paradise Bangkok Molam International Band and more. Tickets are available via Allticket.com and 7-Eleven counters priced at B750 or B900 on the door. Mar 7, 3pm-1am. Platoo Restaurant, 869 Buri Ram Rd., Cha-am

HUA HIN

PHUKET

Visit rescued soi dogs in Hua Hin

Phuket’s new luxury hotel is ideal for long stays

Hua Hin-based animal charity Rescue Paws has launched a four-hour day visit program (B1,280/person) that allows you to interact with dogs and puppies while learning about their rescue and rehab work. Befriend the pups with a feeding session before taking them for a swim at the beach. After that, you can spend the afternoon playing with the dogs at the charity’s base, located on temple grounds next to Khao Tao lake. Local transport and a Thai lunch is included in the fee; the rest of the profits go towards caring for the animals. If you fall in love, you can even opt to adopt at the end of your visit. Rescuepawsthailand.org

Anantara Mai Khao Phuket Serviced Villas & Suites, the latest project from the fast-growing hospitality empire, offers 83 serviced suites and villas 15 minutes north of Phuket airport on quiet Mai Khao beach. All the units—one- and two-bedroom suites, two- and three-bedroom pool suites, and one-to-four-bedroom villas—are set amid the property’s well-manicured gardens and boast contemporary Thai architecture. Translated, that means warm palettes, double-gabled roofs and plenty of green space.

travel | mountain high

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

Far East Fling Eastern Bhutan is the Himalayan kingdom’s least visited region, remote but packed with treasures, where you are quite likely to be the sole tourist in town. By Keith Mundy

G Drametse Monastery

Hilltop village below Drametse Ugyen Tshewang

Traditional drum dances

Gom Kora shrine

etting to Bhutan from Bangkok, you have two choices. One is to fly into Paro in the west on an expensive Druk Air or Bhutan Airlines flight, taking a chance on a connecting flight to Yongphula Airport in the east, a strip of tarmac perched achingly close to the edge of a cliff that’s often closed by fog, or taking the long two-day grind overland. Much better is the cheap and easy way: fly to Guwahati in India on the budget airline IndiGo and take a two-hour taxi ride to the border at Samdrup Jongkhar, where your guide and driver will meet you. Every visitor to Bhutan has to use a local agent for the whole stay, from entry to exit, with every tour sporting an English-speaking guide and a driver with the right vehicle for the job. Our guide, Phuntsho Dorji, turns out to be a master of both jobs, with a memory full of excellent information. We head into a drama of mountain scenery on the road that heads north. The peaks are high, with rocky summits above thickly forested slopes, and they sometimes disappear as we drive into a cloud. Halfway, we make a pitstop at the tiny village of Wamrong and tuck into momos, delicious dumplings filled with meat, cheese or vegetables. After six hours on the road, we cruise down into the market town of Trashigang, the base for visiting the eastern region. Wooden-balconied shops and winding streets squeeze into a narrow river valley at this centuries-old crossroads of trading routes. On the doorsteps and in the shops decorated with traditional carved wood, people in national dress chat and catch up on the news. Here you’ll find the region’s best hotel, the Druk Deothjung (+975-1711-9909), located high on a hillside above the town, boasting very large rooms and excellent catering aimed at Western and Asian tastes. Buddhist symbolism—including a large image of the holy phallus that wards off evil, a common sight in Bhutan—gives drama to each side of the entrance, while the four-story atrium sports wood balustrades carved and painted in the traditional style. High on a mountain ridge above the town stands Trashigang Dzong, a fortress-monastery erected as both a military and spiritual redoubt back in 1659. Dramatic murals line the long archway leading to the dzong’s spectacular central courtyard, lined with wooden galleries along its four-storied facades, carved and painted in yellow, red and brown designs. Inside and upstairs, a monk shows us a small chapel—the holiest place of the dzong—covered with old ornate murals depicting gods, demons and tales from the Tibetan Buddhist scriptures. The next day, we head to one of Bhutan’s most important religious sites—a mountaintop temple home to the Masked Drum Dance, effectively Bhutan’s national dance. We turn onto a country lane that switchbacks through pine forests and maize terraces, finally reaching a plateau 2,100 meters high. A straggle of traditional wooden houses stands around the recently renovated Drametse Monastery, which gives shelter to about 200 monks. The main building has brilliantly repainted murals around three walls, depicting florid gods and angry demons with smaller figures flying around them in a dream-like painting of religious imagination.

To the north of Trashigang lies Trashiyangtse province, which extends to the high-peak border with Tibet, historically a major cultural influence on Bhutan. Taking a narrow road winding alongside a river roiling in fast flow, we spot a golden rooftop glinting in the valley below. Gom Kora is a holy site that draws pilgrims to a huge black rock where, tradition has it, the revered Guru Rinpoche meditated inside a cave in the 8th century and vanquished a demon. Older people circle the site with rosaries in hand, and spin the small prayer wheels set in the walls. Further along the narrow river valley is Chorten Kora, a revered, whitewashed stupa patterned after Boudhanath in Kathmandu, Nepal, and the site of major festivals held each April. In the far north of Trashiyangtse lies Bumdeling Wildlife Sanctuary, covering 1,520 sq km at heights of 1,500-6,400m, up to the snow-capped peaks bordering Tibet. The reserve features glacial lakes and alpine pastures. Among its 100-plus mammal species are black bears, snow leopards, Bengal tigers and red pandas. In winter, if you’re lucky, you might even spot the rare and legally protected black-necked crane here. Opt for a trekking route like Dongla, which threads through this sanctuary, yielding some truly breathtaking mountain views. The country road leading east from Trashigang brings you to Radhi, a village famed for its silk weaving. Seeing a backstrap loom outside a cottage, we step inside and meet Aum Sena, a veteran weaver and canny businesswoman, who sells us a beautiful scarf in muted greens and blues for about B500. From here, a road that winds along hillsides of bright green rice and yellow maize, with stunning views of villages clinging to a mountainside across the valley, leads to the remote Thegchog Kunzang Chhoedon Nunnery. A shy young nun shows us into the prayer hall, which is brilliantly painted with murals along its walls and geometrical patterns on its ceiling. Carry on east and you arrive at Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary. It’s quite small at 741 sq km, but with an amazing attraction: the yeti. Yes, the locals swear the abominable snowman, known as the migoi, lives here. What’s for sure is that Sakteng offers fine trekking in a wild, temperate ecosystem, and it at least includes encounters with the Brokpa yak herders who call this home.

Visitor Rules By law, all tourists must use a local tour operator, taking a pre-arranged tour with a fixed minimum daily price which covers accommodation, meals, ground transport, a licensed guide, taxes and charges. Special price for the eastern region: Throughout 2020, the mandatory tariff will be lowered US$65 per person per day to encourage tourism in the least-visited part of the country.

Recommended Agent Keith Mundy toured with Bridge To Bhutan, a front-rank operator offering both off-the-rack and tailored tours. Bridge To Bhutan is run by two US-educated brothers who employ highly-skilled English-speaking guides to lead their tours, using experienced and careful drivers. Visit bridgetobhutan.com for more information.

neighborhood | phra khanong

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

Clouds Across the Moon

Izakaya 555

Hoppy HRS.

The Turn

Culture Clash Sandwiched between On Nut and Ekkamai, Phra Khanong is a salad bowl of cultures and cuisines, with a ton of cool drinking dens and art spaces. By Supanan Anansuviroj

Coffee & Breakfast Escape the concrete jungle at Naiipa Art Complex’s café, Libra-ry, with a caramel macchiato (B105) and their signature waffle (B95). For something zanier, try the Summerest (cold brew shake with prune juice, B150) at industrial-looking Single Lane or check out the arty décor at Craft Café while enjoying all-day breakfast items like the fig croissant sandwich (B120) and avocado toast with a sunny-side up egg and bacon (B160). For something healthier, check out Dishgood, which offers weekly meal prep for B250/day.

Lunch & Dinner If you’re a Japanophile, Phra Khanong is your ‘hood. Make your way to Okinawa Kinjo for uyaki (Okinawa-style soba with pork broth, B220) and ikasumi yakisoba (squid ink noodles,

Rin Taro

B220); the homey, contemporary Wagyu Samurai for their sukiyaki lunch set (B699); Izakaya 555 for sosu yakisoba (B180) and draft Asahi (B248/1,000ml); or the Sapporo-hailing Bishamon for Sapporo miso ramen (regular B180/large B230). Latin flavors can be found in Casa Teo’s shrimp and garlic cazuela stew (B280) and grilled Spanish octopus with potato and chorizo (B580), while nearby Cielo Sky Bar specializes in local flavors like pomelo salad with grilled tiger prawn and coconut powder (B420). For a chef’s table dinner experience, hit up Bangkok Supper Club for six-course menus with free-flow wine and cocktails (B3,000/person). Or keep it lowkey at the sprawling, outdoor W District, which caters to everyone with stalls serving Indian, Italian, Japanese, Filipino and Thai food.

Drinks Start your bar-hopping journey with a Chicago hotdog (B195), an IPA and an indie rock soundtrack at Hoppy HRS before heading across the street to Wishbeer Home Bar for their 36 rotating taps. Sample cocktails on tap (from B270) at Talk of the Town or critique artwork at gallery-slash-bar Goja. End your night spacing out at the galactic Clouds Across the Moon with its eponymous cocktail of vodka, peach schnapps and sweet vermouth, smoked with hickory wood (B280).

Transport BTS Phra Khanong.

Accommodation Two minutes from the BTS, Rhythm Sukhumvit 44/1 offers rooms from B17,000/month, while 32-sq-meter one-bedrooms go for B16,000/month at Life at

Sukhumvit 67. For something slightly more luxurious, B25,000/ month will land you a twobedroom at Wyne Sukhumvit, while one-bedroom apartments at Vertier Sukhumvit start at B32,000/month.

Visit Extinguish the summer heat with a cone of gelato (B120) at Rin Taro, before bouncing it off at Amped Trampoline Park. Improve your handicap at indoor mini golf course The Turn (B300/person), then challenge your friends to a game of Uno or Monopoly at One More Game. Vinyl junkies can visit the hidden Trackaddict Records to dig for everything from jazz to molam, while art enthusiasts should check out Rebel Art Space and TARS Gallery. Meanwhile, bargain hunters can go on a scavenger hunt for killer second-hand goods at Treasure Factory.

BK ASKS

What do you love about Phra Khanong?

PENRUNG SRIVIPAT, MANAGER OF RIN TARO “Phra Khanong is the perfect place to live, with a nice balance between urban and suburban and a number of Japanese restaurants.”

CHATUPHON SUKHONTHANON, OWNER OF ONE MORE GAME “I like how there are a variety of expats living in this neighborhood—it’s a place where many cultures meet.”

TUANGPAT RATTANAVATIN, OWNER OF TRACKADDICT RECORDS “I’ve been living here for four years and I’ve really seen the neighborhood progress. This place just keeps getting better and better.”