BK E-Magazine 762, May 10 2019

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Green Thumb Shop here for plants Time of the Season Get these fruits while they're fresh Round and Round The glazed doughnuts debate Totally Smokin' Ekkamai's buzzing ribs specialist

Back to work NO. 762 MAY 10, 2019. www.bkmagazine.com

The MARKET Breakfast FORCES issue

Why Bangkok might have the best night shopping in the world.

Tuck into Bangkok's earliest-to-rise restaurants

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5/3/19 3:40 PM

All photos are for advertising purposes only.

Cagette Canteen & Deli

Bangkok’s Best Weekend Feasts JUN 15 – JUL 14, 2019

Five consecutive weekends of family-style, daytime menus and good times with friends.

This is brunching in Bangkok like you've never tasted before.

Pre-booking for Citi credit card members opens May 27 Public booking opens June 1 Participating Restaurants 80/20 • Aesop's Bangkok • Arroz • Billy's Smokehouse • Brasserie Cordonnier • Cagette Canteen & Deli • Cocotte • Haoma • Jua • Koi Restaurant • La Bottega di Luca • La Casa Nostra • Ocken • Pesca • Pizza Massilia • Sensi • Tapas by Nan Charcoal Grill • The Brasserie at Waldorf • The Kitchen Table (W Bangkok) • The Meatchop Butcher & Spirits

#bkbrunchclub2019

bkrestaurantweek.com/brunch

Exclusive Credit Card Sponsor

Official Reservations Partner

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

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Who's in charge?

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon

upfront

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Digital Director / Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Sub-Editor Angela Symons Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Kankanok Wichiantanon

Why Asia’s aging LGBT community is left in the dark

Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Assaya Dejkong, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Junior Video Editors Jaruwan Suwandee, Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Sales Associate Parinda Dermsripoom Marketing Manager Jainjit Limthornbenjapol ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Developer Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Writer-Translator Tripop Leelasestaporn Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writer Atiwat Uton Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Palita Nueangnit, Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant

06 cover

Dear Chiang Mai restaurant owners,

The night markets making Bangkok an after-dark shopping mecca

We are exciting to announce that the Michelin Guide will be coming to Chiang Mai in 2020. Winning the Michelins can be a very special moment for your business that helps to make Chiang Mai an amazing gastronomic destination for every foreign costumer to enjoy.

13 travel

Contributors Kathy MacLeod, Megan Leon

Singapore’s investment in the arts pays off for cultural tourists

Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2019 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

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get in the loop

food

The season to tuck into Asia’s most delicious fruits

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If you are not in a field, on the street or by the river, you can also win the Michelin with a “Chef Table Concept.” Instead of a dining room, your guests sit in the kitchen where you serve them 20 menus. Do not worry that this is a lot of food though. Every menu is supposed to be too small for them to enjoy. For their privilege, you must also demand they buy the B2,500 wine pairing.

Inject some greenery into your home at these giant plant markets

contest, updates, stories

latest news and trends

see what’s happening

@bkmagazine

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Although the Michelins are French, they don’t love only French fine dining. In fact, you are most likely to get the Michelins if you serve Thai-Chinese street food. We know that working on the street in Chiang Mai’s polluted air can be dangerous, but it has its advantages for Michelin-seeking restaurants. The inspectors love to see a gimmick such as chefs in goggles. We recommend dressing your oldest chef in a gas mask and a superhero costume, then have them wield a wok in 40-degree heat. It is sure to gain the Michelin for your restaurant.

The Michelins are not only judging menus, they also care about the environment. By using CP foods, you can save money to build a giant karaoke air-con room on the bank of the Ping River. Here you can play loud Bird Thongchai songs for your guests and everyone else in the area. If you cannot find a space on the river, we recommend you build in a rice field near a highway.

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@bkmagazine

Therefore, the Ministry of Thailand, Tourism and Tuk Tuks (MTTTT) would like to pass on the following advice for restaurants who want to win the Michelins. Please follow these steps to ensure every tourist a delicious tasty moment in the Lanna Kingdom’s world of diversity and refinement.

Our next advice is local produce. The inspectors like to know that you cook only with the amazing ingredients from Thailand’s vast culinary foodscape. It’s very important. You could visit the Royal Projects in Doi Angkhang but everything they grow goes to Bangkok. Instead, buy your chicken and eggs from CP, which is also a Thai company and much cheaper than Royal Projects.

shopping

bkmagazine.com

Let’s Make a Michelin in Chiang Mai Together!

A letter to local businesses in Chiang Mai. Issued at 16:30 hrs. (GMT+7) on April 26, 2019, by the Ministry of Thailand, Tourism and Tuk Tuks.

Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri

Where to find us!

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taste test

neighborhood

Glazed doughnuts

Residential Thonglor

We hope these advices will help you win the Michelin and turn Chiang Mai into the wonderful destination for every gastronomic visitor in the Land of Smiles.

Yours faithfully, Gen. Anand na Narong Governor of the Ministry of Thailand, Tourism and Tuk Tuks

5/3/19 3:08 PM

upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

04

HOT OR NOT

BAK KUT TEH For all the reasons we’d happily take Bangkok street food over Singapore hawker stalls, Teochew-style pork rib soup is not one of them.

Fortunately, Old Street Bak Kut Teh and Song Fa Bak Kut Teh (see page 15) are bringing us the best of Singapore’s flavors without the boredom of living there. Though we don’t mind a visit once in a while (see page 13).

This organization is connecting the LGBT community across generations INTERVIEW

Ryan Figueiredo, 42, is an LGBT rights activist whose new NGO, the Equal Asia Foundation (EAF), focuses on the elderly LGBT population.

Over the past 20 years, he’s dedicated himself to social development issues—from child nutrition to reproductive rights—in his homeland of India. Ahead of the International Day Against Homophobia, Transphobia and Biphobia (IDAHOT), he speaks about why gay rights NGOs so often overlook the aging community.

“Thailand has the chance to become a leader in its region” THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

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Why did you set up the EAF? To address blind spots relating to Asia’s LGBT community. Our four main focuses are: aging and elderly members of the LGBT community; mental health issues, like suicide prevention and harm reduction in young LGBT people; human conflicts; and using technology to end LGBT poverty. There is very little being done about these issues in Thailand, so LGBT people are being left behind. Most organizations react to issues as they happen, but I think there is also space to think about the future and plan ahead to build a better community.

What are your current projects?

We are focussing first on how to bridge the generation gap in the LGBT community, in order to reduce social isolation. Today’s work tends to focus on young people, neglecting the older generation, who didn’t experience the freedom that young LGBT people have today. We’re also focussing on innovative ways to support LGBT refugees and asylum seekers, especially those in countries affected by conflict and natural disasters.

What issues are unique to the aging LGBT community?

Social isolation of older LGBT people is very serious in Thailand, it pushes them into a space of loneliness and all its inherent problems. All you need to do is walk into any gay parties and look around. You will be able to count the number of older LGBT in one hand. Many of the wounds in our movement today are because younger LGBT do not fully appreciate the historical journey that the older generation made to get where we are. In turn, the

older generation has little understanding of the challenges of being LGBT in the age of the internet.

STRESS You need to take it easy. The National Statistics Office says that over 7 million Thais are at risk of severe stress caused by working over 50-hour weeks. They also say that leads to heavy smoking, drinking and drug use. Perversely, those were the exact same effects that AprMay’s many holidays had, so we don’t know what you should do.

How does the situation here compare to other big cities in the region?

From some vantage points, we are doing much better, but we really need to focus on who’s still being left behind, such as lesbian women or transmen, who don’t get to experience the acceptance as much as gay men.

Why do you say Thailand has the chance to become a leader in its region?

Thailand decriminalised homosexuality back in 1956, and the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) recently launched a campaign to promote Thailand as a LGBT friendly destination.

Thailand also conducted broad consultations on the Civil Partnership Bill and last year the cabinet tabled the bill. There is every indication that Thailand values how the world perceives it as a tolerant, accepting and progressive society for LGBT and we can help to make the government realize this ambition.

Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

QUOTAS In the red corner: the "quota" of party-list MPs, which if used to calculate party-list MPs would give pro-regime parties the majority of seats. In the blue corner: "initial quota," which would give the election to the anti-coup coalition. It’s now up to the Constitutional Court to decide, which happens to be populated by a bunch of old men who make Trump look kinda liberal.

KERRY EXPRESS If you thought no delivery service could possibly be worse than standard Thai post, you were wrong.

A group of Kerry Delivery drivers were caught unboxing a customer’s sex toys then posting the photos online together with their private details. A new low for people everywhere.

by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

5/3/19 3:48 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

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Habitat is reaching its 55th birthday, and these 4 iconic products show how they’ve influenced our homes over the years

Seriously stylish decor.

With a mission to bring affordable and well-designed pieces to every house, the London -based high-street decor brand Habitat is celebrating its 55th birthday this year. Their stunning designs have inspired homeowners in Bangkok and worldwide to adopt a minimal-yet-chic approach to interiors. Let’s take a look at four of their most iconic products.

How many of these were in your family homes growing up?

Brought to you by Habitat

Boule Japonaise After hitting the market in 1967, this Japan-inspired lantern has been a favorite among students for its simple-yet-elegant design and competitive price.

The lamp is made from rice paper, allowing it to give off a soft and soothing light, and is available in three different sizes (35cm, 40cm and 60cm).

Price: B300 for 35cm, B350 for 40cm, and B420 for 60cm

Chicken Brick

Tam Tam

Magna

Introduced by Habitat in 1968, this item had its heyday in the ‘70s but it still remains one of their most popular products to this day. Inspired by Roman cooking methods, the terracotta brick functions as a mini oven within the oven, which steams the chicken in its own moisture—no added fat necessary—resulting in succulently moist meat.

The effective cooking tool comes with a set of cooking instructions and three recommended recipes.

Price: B2,230

This petite plastic stool i s p e r fe c t fo r a cco m modating unexpected guests. Its functional, multi-use design allows you to remove the top to reveal storage space within, while it can be easily moved around thanks to being incredibly lightweight. The curved shape and vibrant colorways add a touch of fun modern flair to your home or garden.

Price: B1,090 and B1,500

This shelving unit enjoys iconic status for three key reasons: its beech plywood and natural varnish finish make for a timelessly classic look; its square nooks are ideal for holding everything from books to ornaments; its functional wheels make it easy to move the unit to any room you want. This smart piece is ideal for everyone and comes in low or tall heights, with color options of white lacquer or natural oak.

Price: B33,900 for low shelf and B40,900 for tall shelf

cover | night markets

Rod Fai Market 2 (Ratchada)

We challenge you to name a city with better night markets than Bangkok.

Here’s proof that when it comes to shopping, eating, drinking and playing after sundown, this city comes out on top. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

Rod Fai Market 1 (Srinakarin) This vintage shoppers’ mecca is the OG of Bangkok’s night markets. Though no longer anywhere near Rod Fai Park—its former location behind Chatuchak Weekend Market—it has kept its unique railway theme, with a Wild West-style entrance. The space is vast, housing hundreds of stalls selling everything from trendy clothes and accessories, to second-hand sneakers, vintage gems and, of course, food and booze galore.

What we like: The long, grungy-slash-hipster alleyway leading to the market gears you up for what’s ahead with its lines of vintage-style barbers, tattoo shops, and craft beer bars. The market itself is clearly divided into vintage and new zones, with plenty of benches to crash out on—a rare feature at night markets.

What to buy: There’s no shortage of clothes, from colorful tie dye and cheeky slogan tees, to jeans, dresses, culottes, and all kinds of fashionable accessories—think bucket hats, sunglasses and Ikea bumbags.

Thrift shoppers can revel in endless vintage finds, from obscure concert T-shirts, military jackets and workers’ overalls to old-school matchboxes, film cameras, suitcases, car accessories and home decor.

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What annoys us: It’s so out of town. Yes there’s plenty of parking but the traffic getting there can be next-level infuriating. Even taking a motorbike from the nearest BTS (Udom Suk) takes at least 15 minutes.

Who goes there: Local teenagers, foodies and vintage enthusiasts.

Pro tips: The market is quite deep, and the good stuff is right at the back, so resist the urge to blow your hardearned baht too soon.

Where: Srinakarin Soi 51, behind Seacon Square. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-1am

Rod Fai Market 2 (Ratchada) Although smaller than its outof-town predecessor, Rod Fai Market 2 has the winning formula of variety and accessibility. What was once a parking lot behind The Esplanade shopping mall is now a vibrant bazaar of endless street eats, bars, clothes and accessories. With a vibe that’s chilled out yet full of energy, just walking around the maze of stalls is a fun experience in itself, plus with MRT Thailand Cultural Center so close, getting here is a breeze.

What we like: The abundance of stalls is conveniently organized into food, shopping and bar sections. When it comes to shopping, you can pretty much get anything, from fashionable handbags and sunnies to colorful hipster socks, all at very low prices. The choice of food is equally impressive, ranging from the local favorite leng saab (hot and spicy soup with pork ribs), Korean barbecue and Japanese hot pots, to classic burgers and grilled seafood.

There’s no shortage of drinks and live music either, thanks to rows and rows of dive bars— head to the second floor bars for the best Instagram shots.

What to buy: There’s a good mix of generic night market fare—graphic tees, Hawaiian shirts, tank tops, swimwear— and cool finds, like chic resort wear, big brand sneakers like Nike, Vans and Adidas, artsy jewelry, vintage clothes, antiques, boutique body care and home fragrances. The quality here is more than decent, all at wallet-friendly prices.

What annoys us: Once you surface from the MRT, there are no clear signs that indicate the market’s exact location. We suggest you follow the hordes heading around the back of The Esplanade mall, where you’ll find the entrance.

Who goes there: Everyone— families, young couples, teens and tourists. This place is a magnet for Chinese tour groups.

Pro tips: Don’t stress yourself out by driving, because finding parking at Esplanade is a bitch.

Take a taxi and you risk getting stuck in traffic for hours. Just get on the MRT. Period.

Where: Behind The Esplanade, Ratchadaphisek Rd. Open daily 5pm-1am. MRT Thailand Cultural Center.

SHOP HERE: Used in Japan SHOP HERE: Dye Hard Specializes in vintage military style pieces—think 1940s-60s US military herringbone twill pants (B4,200), Vietnam War-era boonie hats (B2,500) and herringbone twill utility jackets (B8,500).

Vintage denim shorts from Polo Ralph Lauren, Levi’s, Dockers and Wrangler are also available.

Warehouse 3/12, Rod Fai Market 1 (Srinakarin), 081-802-2262. Open Thu-Sun 6pm-10pm

A must-visit for savvy thrift shoppers seeking quality second hand clothes from Japanese and other international brands.

Expect to snag gems like Ken Nakamura jeans, vintage Ralph Lauren jackets or Golden Goose Deluxe Brand (GGDB) sneakers. Chinos are in the B1,090-1,490 range, while jeans range from B990 to around B2,400.

Rod Fai Market 2 (Ratchada), 087-051-2929.

Open daily 6pm-10pm

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

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Chang Chui Drive across to the Thonburi side of the river and you’ll find this 11-rai creative hub, whose name in Thai means “sloppy artisan.” Opened in 2017— and featured in Time magazine’s 2018 list of the World's 100 Greatest Places—Chang Chui is the brainchild of Somchai Songwattana, CEO and art director of Thailand’s pioneering fashion house FlyNow. Each of the 18 separate buildings are made from reused materials, including its main attraction, the head-turning disused Lockheed L-1011 Tristar airplane.

Chatuchak Friday Night Market With over 15,000 stalls, the sprawling 70-rai daytime Chatuchak Weekend Market is one of the world’s largest. Shopaholics may go gaga for it, but they’re soon met with the realities of scorching sunlight and an asphyxiating weekend crowd. What many don’t know is that a smaller section of Chatuchak also opens every Friday night to strollers who want to avoid being packed like sweaty sardines in the daytime heat.

What we like: Chatuchak on a Friday evening still buzzes with energy, and the absence of the sun is the cherry on top. Most of the shops here offer wholesale prices, so you can expect to snag bargains if you purchase in larger quantities. With cute blouses and chic handbags for under B200, this is the place for some serious retail therapy—we won’t blame you for going home with more than a few extra goodies than you intended.

What to buy: The majority of the shops are dedicated to all things fashion, from T-shirts, blouses, dresses, jackets, jeans, sunnies, and hats, to bags, socks, jewelry and cosmetics—you name it, this market has it. Some of the sub-sois are

also open, where you’ll find more clothes, souvenirs and other knickknacks. Note that only sections 8 to 26 (clothing, accessories and food) are operational at night––no gardening, art, pet or book zones.

What annoys us: Cars, bikes and minivans are constantly brushing up alongside you, seriously interrupting your flow. Also, this night market is not for foodies. At all. On our visit, there were just a few vendors selling pork skewers and Isaan sausages near the gates.

Who goes there: Ninety-percent Thai teens, but what did you expect, with all the super-cheap fashion?

What we like: Chang Chui is undeniably a hipster’s paradise. The eccentric sculptures and urban art pieces make for cool Instagram backdrops, while the clothing stores and F&B choices are trendy, yet refreshingly different. Aside from all that, Chang Chui feels very down-to-earth. It’s surprisingly kid-friendly, with slides, tree houses and swings, and is well-organized into two main zones—Green and Night. Unlike most night markets, it’s not overcrowded, making strolling around a pleasant experience.

What to buy: More upscale than most others, so don’t expect to see piles of secondhand clothes or designer knockoffs. Instead, you’ll be greeted with stylish fashion boutiques and other unique shops selling leather goods, arts and crafts, books, stationery, home products and gifts. There’s a handful of outdoor pop-up stalls selling high-quality preloved clothes, Muji-style canvas totes, beach-ready tie dye garments and plants. The F&B choices are the real highlight—think insect restaurant Insects in the Backyard (02-035-7000), fine dining airplane

restaurant Na-Oh (088-612-2188) and craft beer expert Hoey Bar (081-817-2888).

What annoys us: Even with its media attention, the market doesn't seem to be able to attract much traffic and closing hours for the shops seem unpredictable—this is probably because it’s so far out of town with no transport links nearby.

Who goes there: Thonburi families, artists, creatives, and a few tourists.

Pro tips: Although Chang Chui also opens during the day, it’s best to come as the sun sets, as that’s when the market has the best vibe with both zones open.

Where: 460/8 Sirindhorn Rd., 081-817-2888. Open Thu-Tue 11am-11pm (11am-9pm for Green Zone; 4pm-11pm for Night Zone).

SHOP HERE: Chui Charoen This retro-style shop may look like a general store you’d see in a typical Thai village, but it’s actually a concept store that gathers hip local brands with a heavy focus on stationery, souvenirs and lifestyle products with creative Thai twists. Highlights include colorful upcycled rice bags (B200), Nora matte liquid lipsticks (B490), Ramakien brooches (B250) and magnets (B190), and organic skincare products from local brand Chorkoon.

Chang Chui, 60/8 Sirindhorn Rd., 081-8172888. Open Tue-Sun 4-10pm.

Pro tips: Drop by after 10pm if you want to experience the market at its peak. Parking is shockingly limited; if you insist on driving, park inside DD Mall—the big red building opposite Chatuchak Gate 1—or try BTS Mo Chit’s car park (free from 5pm-1am).

Where: Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd. Open Fri 10pm-7am. BTS Mo Chit/ MRT Chatuchak Park/MRT Kamphaeng Phet.

SHOP HERE: Muss Room Get the Muji-look for less at this womenswear store, where minimally chic kimono-style tops, high-waisted shorts, wrap skirts and dresses come in an array of warm, earthy tones perfect for summer.

All of the clothes here are made from cotton, each piece costing no more than a bargain B200.

Chatuchak Friday Night Market (Section 4 Soi 48), Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd., 083-577-5155. Open Fri 7pm-2am. Instagram: @mussroom

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06/

Nail parlors

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Tattoo and Henna shops

Ear piercing

Optical shops

Barber shops

Massage parlors

UNEXPECTED SERVICES YOU’RE LIKELY TO FIND AT BANGKOK’S NIGHT MARKETS

5/3/19 3:53 PM

HONORABLE MENTION: 4 MORE MARKETS FOR YOU TO SCAVENGE

The Camp

Rot Boran Market (Classic Car Market) Not too far from Liab Duan Night Market, over on KasetNawamin Road, you’ll find this cool-looking spot stashed away behind The Walk community mall. Beyond its towering, Art Deco-inspired facade lies an array of classic automobiles converted into pop-up stores.

Asiatique the Riverfront Divided into several sections, ranging from the panoramic waterfront to a 100-year-old refurbished sawmill, this sprawling riverside shopping center offers both a night bazaar and a mall. There are over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashion, home decor and intriguing souvenirs, plus over 40 eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. For entertainment, there are also stage shows like Calypso Bangkok cabaret, Joe Louis Thai Puppet Theatre and Muay Thai Live.

What we like: The scenic Chao Phraya backdrop makes a nice change to the norm, while the vibe is low-key and unpretentious— there’s a genuine sense of people coming here just to simply unwind and have a good time. The market is also very easy to navigate thanks to the well-organized zones— Charoenkrung District for small boutique shops, Factory District for trendy fashion and gadgets, Waterfront District for upscale dining and drinking and Town Square District for more bars, cafes and big food chains. Surprisingly, the market is not swamped by tourists—it’s busy, but not too busy, meaning there’s still room to breathe.

What to buy: There’s a plethora of small boutique shops inside the warehouses selling high-quality, well-designed handicrafts and souvenirs that you’ll actually want to buy for yourself, as well as organic bath and shower products, essential oils, silks, Kashmir carpets, leather goods, upcycled home decor and other knick knacks. Big fashion and lifestyle brands like Owndays, Beautrium and Jelly Bunny also have branches here, located right at the back. F&B-wise, there are dozens of restaurants serving seafood, Asian and Western cuisine.

What annoys us: We dig the interesting choice of shops and restaurants, but not so much the spendy prices. Since it’s a tourist attraction, we guess it’s to be expected.

Who goes there: Tour groups, families and young couples.

Pro tips: The easiest and fastest way to get there is the free shuttle boat from Sathorn Pier (Central Pier), which only takes 10 minutes and runs from 4-11:30pm.

Where: 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02108-4488. Open daily 4pm-midnight.

Neon Night Market Located right in the downtown Pratunam area near Platinum Shopping Mall, Neon Night Market is one of the newest additions to Bangkok’s night market scene. Owned by The Platinum Group, it transforms what was once vacant land on Petchaburi Road into a neon-tinged hangout spot for city dwellers to shop, eat and drink.

What we like: Overall, the venue is clean and well-spaced, with rows of tents arranged in an orderly fashion, making it easy to navigate. The market feels very urban thanks to the looming cityscape backdrop, yet super low-key and chilled out. Bonus points for the easy-to-find ATM stationed right at the entrance.

What to buy: Wardrobe basics like T-shirts, jeans, shorts and socks are abundant. The selection, however, leans towards typical tourist items—think Balenciaga and Kenzo copycat logo tees, elephant pants and Thai silk scarfs. Meanwhile, the budget-friendly, trendy street fashion and accessories make ideal impulse buys. As for street eats, this market is heavy on seafood, highlights being the all-you-can eat Taikong Seafood (084-756-3131), where you can uniquely catch your own live seafood and cook it on the spot.

What annoys us: The market seems a bit soulless and lacks the artistic community vibe we know and love. There’s not much variety on the F&B front either—foodies will be disappointed.

Who goes there: Office workers, downtown residents, and a few tourists.

Pro tips: From BTS Chit Lom, it’s about a 10-minute walk or under five minutes by motorbike. Alternatively, it’s a three-minute walk from Chit Lom Pier—accessible by the Khlong Saen Saep canal boat service.

Where: 1087 Petchaburi Rd., 063-230-1555. Open daily 4pm-midnight.

SHOP HERE: Aromee This shop specializes in 100-percent natural, organic aromatherapy and indulgent skincare products. Our favorites include the handmade natural vegan facial soap in shea butter and the Oasis Skin body lotion, packed with jojoba and sweet almond to help soften the skin, and cocoa butter, shea butter and frangipani flower oil extract to provide an invigorating, uplifting scent.

SHOP HERE: Drive Line

Asiatique the Riverfront, Warehouse 1, Soi 8, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd. Open daily 4pm-midnight

Neon Night Market, 1087 Petchaburi Rd., 086-413-7908.

Open daily 5pm-midnight

Liab Duan Night Market

With the owners’ shared passion for JDM cars, this shop is all about edgy, car-related apparel and accessories like GTR screen printed tees, Toyota Supra MK4 iPhone cases, baseball caps and keychains, as well as a wide array of performance automotive parts.

Meaning “the market located along the expressway,” this huge, bustling night market transforms 17-rai of the Ramintra-Ekkamai neighborhood into a popular local hotspot, with hundreds of vendors selling almost anything you can think of, plus countless food stalls and restaurants.

What we like: The vibe here is as down-toearth and local as it gets, making no allusions to hipness whatsoever. Strolling through stall-after-stall of colorful, unexpected trinkets is fun, even if you have no intention of buying anything. Like many night markets in Bangkok, Liab Duan is well-organized and brightly lit. There are also ATM machines lined up at the entrance—a sure way to get in our good books.

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What to buy: The bae kar din-style shops (a Thai idiom meaning “selling stuff on the ground”) remind us a little of the now permanently closed JJ Green, with their vast array of fashionable goods from basic tees, dresses, hats, sunnies and iPhone cases to cheap electronic goods, cosmetics and toys.

Among these are many designer knockoffs like Off-White T-shirts, monogram-patterned Louis Vuitton handbags and Balenciaga Triple S sneakers. But keep walking and you’ll find stalls selling cool vintage band tees and big piles of secondhand sneakers and shoes, including gems like Dr. Martens, Puma Fenty Creepers and Converse Chuck Taylor American Flag High-Tops.

What annoys us: What is it with night markets and seafood? Sure, there are doz-

12/6 Prasert-Manukitch Rd., 098-533-5651. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight

Huamum Night Market Less than 10 minutes’ walk away from Rot Boran Market is Huamum market, another hotspot among locals. The market boasts very affordable clothing, accessories and colorful trinkets, as well as loads of street eats.

678 Prasert-Manukitch Rd., 099-492-6858. Open daily 5pmmidnight

Artbox Since 2015, this popular market has hopped all around Bangkok.

Now, it has just announced a semi-permanent address at Chuvit Garden, Sukhumvit Soi 10, where it will remain through Nov 30. Expect to find fashion, food, live music, photo spots and art stalls.

Chuvit Garden, Sukhumvit Soi 10, 092-260-7667. Open daily 3pmmidnight

The Camp Vintage Flea Market Vintage lovers can’t miss this night market next to Chatuchak. Spend hours treasure hunting for preloved clothes, furniture, home decor and vinyl records. F&B-wise, there are street-food names like Taikong Seafood and Summer Street, Pompano Roasted Cafe and Ari’s Paper Butter to name a few.

482 Kamphaeng Phet Soi 1, 098-998-8580. Open Tue-Sun 3pm-midnight

ens of food stalls and restaurants here, but they seriously lack variety. While there’s no shortage of grilled seafood and Cajun-style shrimp buckets, only a handful offer Thai staples. Some of the restaurants seem to have questionable hygiene, too.

Who goes there: Local residents and out of towners dropping by for dinner on their daily commute.

Pro tips: Since there’s no public transport nearby, your easiest bet is to take a taxi all the way, otherwise it’s a 20-minute drive from MRT Lat Phrao.

Where: Ramintra Rd., opposite Tawandang German Brewery (Ramintra Branch), near Vacharaphol junction. Open daily 5pm2am.

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

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hit list | 22 new reasons to love bangkok

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

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01

Add a touch of Scandinavian elegance to your home DECOR

If you have both an eye for statement furniture and a spare B100,000 burning a hole in your pocket, we can recommend no better place to turn to than the new Bangkok showroom from Danish furniture brand Gubi.

Their whole thing is modern twists on spindly-elegant mid-century Nordic classics—which is to say it’s all incredibly beautiful with price tags to match. Fancy a Gam Fratesi-designed “Beetle” chair inspired by insect anatomy? B66,900, please, though you’ll be needing four if they’re to fit around your dining table. Or how about a “Multi-Lite Pendant” lamp by Danish designer Louis Weisdorf? The perfect B56,900 statement above your marble kitchen island. In fairness, all this stuff is exquisitely crafted contemporary design, all displayed in a Sukumvit Soi 49 showroom that’s no less beautiful—all wood panels and dreamy lines. Pity we’re just browsing, for now. 2/F, Norse Republics, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-062-1211. Open daily 10am-7pm

NUMEROLOGY

Check out this summer’s exciting Nike drops at Bangkok’s top sneaker stores B5,200

Upperground

FITNESS

BEAUTY

TECH

02 Say hello to Virgin’s

03 Channel your inner

04 True wireless earbuds

swankiest club yet

Nike Air Max 1 ND “Have a Nike Day”

B5,500

JD Sports Nike Air Max 270 “Triple Black”

B5,800

Bangkok’s Virgin Active members are now blessed with a swanky new branch packed with next-level facilities. Occupying two floors, it boasts five stateof-the-art workout studios including one dedicated to high-energy, sweat-inducing classes like body combat and body pump. The premium club also features nine outdoor training facilities and playground zones, as well as a spa pool where you can recover from your aches and pains while enjoying panoramic views of the city skyline. One-year memberships start at B665/ week or B34,580 if paid upfront. 8-9/F, 101 The Third Place, Piyabutr Soi 1, 02-017-9722. Open Mon-Fri 6am-10pm; Sat-Sun 8am-9pm. BTS Punnawithi

Carnival Nike x Fear of God “Air Fear of God Raid”

B6,100

Atmos Atmos x Nike Lebron 16 “Clear Jade”

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Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.

BUY IT RIVERS DRINKWARE “WALLMUG SLEEK” DOUBLE WALL CUP Enjoy caffeine, plastic-free (B750)!

Mother of Dragons with this new collection Thank the Old Gods and the New, Urban Decay has partnered with HBO to create a Game of Thronesinspired collection. Superfans can get a hand on a Mother of Dragons Highlight Palette loaded with three new shades of highlighter and eyeshadow brushes inspired by Arya Stark’s Needle and Jon Snow’s Longclaw. The star of the collection, however, goes to the pop-up Iron Throne eyeshadow palette packed with 20 shades inspired by the four houses— we love House Lannister’s shimmering gold “Casterly Rock.” Available at Sephora, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1616. Open daily 10am-10pm

BIN IT TULLE SKIRT Give us a call when you figure out how to wear this without looking like a ballerina.

that pack a punch

What: Bang & Olufsen Beoplay E8 2.0 Price: B14,500 Why? Once you go wireless, there’s no going back.

The second generation of the Beoplay E8 comes with an upgraded wireless leather charging case that holds three full charges—a total 16 hours of playtime on the go. Audio-wise, the E8 2.0 delivers a natural, yet rich sound. Designed with fine materials including leather, aluminum, stainless steel and braided textile, the gem-like earbuds are available in black, indigo blue, natural and limestone colors with charging cases to match.

BARGAIN POWERMALL POWER SALE Get up to 40-percent discount on all home appliances, televisions, audio, tech and gadgets at branches citywide (through Jun 20).

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

11

A Taste of Home in Bangkok The new Patissez cafe is Bangkok’s answer to all kinds of comfort food dreams Patissez Cafe is a place where you can enjoy all kinds of comfort food and fresh waffles that come in different flavors and with sauces made from scratch. We are an Australian cafe specializing in shakes and coffee.

We select Thai beans from Chiang Mai based on seasonality. Eating at Patissez feels like spending an evening with friends around the dinner table. Our first brunch was in Canberra, Australia. Now we’re in Bangkok!

@patissezbkk

P.11 So Bangkok.indd 11

3/F CentralWorld, 095-8697396.

Open daily 10am-10pm BTS Chidlom

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hit list | calendar

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

NIGHTLIFE

05

12

Bangkok with hits like “You’ll be on my mind.” May 22, 9pm. Live Arena, 94, 23/9294 RCA Rd., 098-974-6974.

B1,290 via Ticketmelon.

ART

Jason Mraz promises strictly Good Vibes

WELCOME TO SOUNDISTAN 5 A night of live electronica, house and techno from Force of Nature’s DJ Kent (JP), Nannue Tipitier (TH), and Elaheh (TH/IR). May 10, 9pm. Safe Room, 2/F, Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. Free before 10:30pm/B350 after including one drink.

SEEN SESSIONS VOL 1 Dance to house music at the riverside’s freshest rooftop bar with Sandy Rivera (Kings of Tomorrow). May 11, 6pm.

Seen Restaurant and Bar, 26/F, Avani Riverside, Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-431-9120.

B600 including one drink.

MMMH FEAT. TERUU Japanese DJ Teruu joins Bangkok’s Boogie G for a night of underground disco and techno music. May 11, 9pm.

12x12, 810/22 Soi Thararom 2, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 094-260-4713. B200.

CONCERT

The “I’m Yours” crooner Jason Mraz will drop

by Impact Arena on May 19 as part of his Good Vibes Asia Tour. The American singer-songwriter and 2010 Grammy award-winner just released his sixth album, Know, which boasts hits like “Have It All” and “More Than Friends” (feat. Meghan Trainor).

Fans can no doubt expect to hear other feelgood hits like “Lucky” and “Make it Mine” when Mraz makes his third trip to Thailand, following concerts in 2012 and 2015. Tickets are B2,000-6,000 via Thaiticketmajor. Popular Rd., Muang Thong Thani, 02-833-4455.

FREQUENCIES - SEOUL COMMUNITY RADIO Two Korean talents, DJ Bowlcut and Vinyl Richie, play electronic dance music with support from Maarten Goetheer and Outfit. May 17, 9:30pm.

Safe Room, 2/F, Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117.

B300 including one drink.

SAKON PROJECT A showcase of oil paintings by Thai artist Sakon Phu-ngamdee, portraying the world in a vivid mix of realist and surrealist art forms. May 14Jun 22, 6:30pm. Ardel’s Third Place Gallery, 137-137/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-422-2092. Free.

ART ROTATION 3 The rotating art showcase invites Thai artist Panya Vijinthanasarn, whose “Resplendency & Obscurity” collection features mixed-media works that explore past civilizations.

Through May 23, 11am8pm. 137 Pillars Suites & Residences, 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-079-7000. Free.

FROM MONET TO KANDINSKY. VISIONS ALIVE A huge, immersive, multimedia exhibition featuring the works of 16 prolific artists, including Degas, Monet and van Gogh, with opportunities to try your own hand at painting. Through Jun 16. 2/F, RCB Galleria, River City, 23 Charoenkrung Soi 24. Early-bird tickets B300 via Zipevent/regular B350/ children B200.

CONCERT

06 Beg, borrow or steal to catch this sold-out

show from Lauv

Tickets are long gone from all the official channels, but we recommend doing whatever it takes to catch rising American alt-pop singer and producer Lauv‘s Bangkok debut.

The San Francisco-born artist, who will perform at Moonstar Studio on May 18, rose to acclaim in 2015 with the release of his debut EP, Lost in the Light, which showcased his genre-crossing blend of pop, rock and dance music. He is best known for the singles “I Like Me Better” and “The Other” both taken from his 2018 album, I Met You When I was 18, while his latest release, “Superhero,” has also received widespread play. 701 Lad Phrao Soi 80, 02-539-3881.

TUESDAY JAZZ WITH MAFT SAI Have a mid-week dancing session to swing, Latin and jazz music played on vinyl only. May 24, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02261-6661. Free.

LIVE MUSIC

FAIRS

FESTIVAL

07 Escape the city with this three-day festival in Khaoyai Head to Karma Kastle 2, a three-day music festival taking place less than three hours’ drive away. From May 17-19, dance to electronic music from over 20 DJs with a lush green mountain backdrop at Mirasierra Khaoyai, a Spanish hacienda-inspired boutique resort hidden way out in the Khaoyai hills. The ticket price includes camping for those willing to brave the heat, otherwise a number of hotels have partnered with Karma, who will arrange a shuttle service from the festival. 575, Pak Chong, Nakhon Ratchasima, 089171-8088. B2,800 via Ticketmelon.

NIGHTLIFE

BEAT THE HEAT WITH THESE POOL PARTIES BLAST POOL SERIES #0050 Celebrate the poolside party’s 50th edition with special guest DJs Juany Bravo (US) and ATMA (AUS) as well as free-flow sangria. Free entry for ladies 2-3pm. May 11, 2-9pm.

DoubleTree by Hilton, 18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-649-6666.

From B400 including one drink.

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ANTHOLOGY Thai artist Verapong Sritrakulkitjakarn’s oil paintings weave together the diverse histories of mankind in order to reflect our values and diversity. Through Aug 2, 10am-8pm. Sky Lobby, 23/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-1001234. Free.

WESTIN POOL PARTY Spend the afternoon partying or chilling by the pool before hitting the club at Levels for an after party. May 11, 1-9pm. The Westin Grande, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-207-8000. B400 including free-flow from 1-2pm.

BEATS BY THE POOL Still stuck in that Songkran Splash Away party mode? Then head

JAPANESE BREAKFAST The Korean-American experimental indie-pop artist, Michelle Zauner, brings hits like “Road Head” to the stage.

May 14, 7pm. Rockademy, 120/8 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-261-3833. B1,000 via Ticketmelon/B1,200 on the door.

SIAMESE CATS The Japanese alternative rock band returns with support from emerging Thai talents H 3 F and Surff. May 19, 7pm.

De Commune, 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-419-7380.

B500 via Ticketmelon.

back to W for some more action by the pool. May 11, 2-9pm. W Hotel, 106 North Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. B400-600 including one drink.

SO POOL PARTY Burgers and beats by the pool, overlooking Lumphini Park. May 25, 1pm. The Water Club, 10/F, SO Sofitel, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-6240000. B600 including one drink.

JAKOB OGAWA As part of Medium Rare’s Summer Sessions, the Norwegian indie-pop singer-songwriter serenades

SEMI-ANNUAL BOOK SALE Bookworms can rummage for second-hand finds at the return of Silom’s favorite book sale.

May 25, 9:30am-4pm. Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd., 02-233-1731. Free.

PLAYS

SHAKESPEARE’S TWELFTH NIGHT Bangkok Community Theatre is back with another play from the British bard, with an usual pirate twist. May 23-25, 2931; Jun 1. M-Theatre, 2884/2 New Petchaburi Rd., 02-3197641. B800 via Ticketmelon.

5/3/19 4:47 PM

travel | singapore

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

State of the Arts

Galleries with both international masters and local talent

Why Singapore’s investment in art, design and culture is paying off.

By Kankanok Wichiantanon

Design Singapore Council

The cutting edge ArtScience Museum at Marina Bay Sands (you know the giant lotus flower building?) houses 21 different gallery spaces with permanent interactive exhibitions—sensory visuals of flowers falling in the night sky give way to an immersive virtual tree-planting adventure, which simultaneously translates to actual trees being planted in Rimbang Baling, Sumatra. Touring international exhibitions also feature—through Sep 22, you can fall down the rabbit hole and wake up again in Lewis Carroll’s “Wonderland.” Situated within the former Supreme Court Building and City Hall, the grand National Gallery Singapore hosts modern visual works from Singaporean and Southeast Asian artists, as well as high profile restaurants such as the two-Michelin-starred Odette for French cuisine and National Kitchen by Violet Oon for Peranakan fare. For a glimpse of cutting-edge Southeast Asian contemporary art, Singapore Art Museum houses an array of iconic works, like Thai artist Arin Rungjang’s The Golden Teardrop, a thong yod-inspired (Thai dessert) assembly of over 6,000 brass teardrops, and Cambodian artist Svay Sareth’s 80 kilo metal ball, which has been dragged from city to city as a symbol of his country’s enduring struggle. Singapore’s first independent contemporary art space, The Substation (open since 1990) places the focus on local culture, urban society and performance art, while indie art space Kult Studio & Gallery showcases street-style visual arts. Opera Gallery, meanwhile, is where you’ll find all the big international draws like Picasso, Dali and Damien Hirst.

Heritage and culture are preserved and put on display To learn about Singapore’s rich history dating back to the 14th century, there’s no better place than the National Museum of Singapore (open since 1887). Its unique 12-meter-high glass rotunda currently houses “Story of the Forest,” an interactive installation that

ArtScience Museum

13

sees indigenous flora and fauna populate 360-degree screens. The museum’s Singapore History Gallery is a must-marvel, with its juxtaposition of national treasures and rare photographs with modern design installations that take you back in time. Next, experience the country’s hybrid culture with a walk through Little India, packed with bright shop houses, spice-scented restaurants, and temples—check out the 19th-century Hindu temple, Sri Veeramakaliamman, followed by Sri Srinivasa Perumal and the 15-metertall Buddha statue at The Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya. Explore the country’s Muslim community in Kampong Glam, a historic neighborhood centered around the large golden dome of Masjid Sultan (3 Muscat St.) mosque, built in 1824. Nearby, you’ll find the Malay Heritage Centre, a colonial-style mansion that was once a Malay palace back in 1840s. Inside, five exhibition rooms walk you through the evolution of local Malay culture, arts and language.

The island is alive with creative boutiques and local designers Lifestyle mall Design Orchard opened earlier this year as an all-in-one shop for local designer brands, from bright and colorful clothing to furniture and eye-catching handicrafts. It also houses a co-working space on the second floor and a rooftop terraced garden overlooking the buzzing Orchard Road. For vintage creations, Hansel offers whimsical womenswear by native designer, Jo Soh. For souvenirs, forgo the usual tat in favor of chic boutique Supermama’s ceramics painted with iconic Singapore landmarks, or The Farm Store’s Singapore-rooted creations by homegrown designers—think Merlion ice cube trays, curry puff cushions and Singapore sling marmalade. For one-ofa-kind accessories, look to Rehyphen for items woven from old cassette tapes, or KnottyMin for necklaces made from ribbons and jersey cotton.

The eco-conscious can head to The Green Collective SG, where 35 local brands gather their plastic-free, ecofriendly goods, from fresh produce to cosmetics and homeware (don’t forget to bring your own bags).

Supermama

F

rom Mar 4-17, 2019, Asia’s art and design world descended on Singapore for the latest Singapore Design Week. The annual event of workshops, exhibitions and pop-ups has grown into one of the region’s biggest design showcases, drawing a crowd of native designers and international speakers including Ole Scheeren (the German architect behind projects including Mahanakhon Bangkok) and Nelson Coates (the production designer of Crazy Rich Asians). Singapore Design Week also capitalized on the Lion State’s continued investment in arts and culture, which over the past 20 years has facilitated grand projects like the National Gallery, the Marina Barrage floating green space and the ultra-futuristic SuperTree Grove at Gardens by the Bay. Here are three reasons why your next trip to Singapore should be a cultural one.

Marina Bay Waterfront

MUST-STAYS

3 Design Hotel Hot-Spots

UNDER B10,000: SIX SENSES DUXTON The designer travel brand transforms a row of Tanjong Pagar shop-houses into opium den-inspired guest suites with four-poster beds and opulent lacquerware.

From B8,700, www.sixsenses.com

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B10,000-20,000: THE CAPITOL KEMPINSKI Adamesque patterns meet with colonial touch-points across two neoclassical buildings in the downtown Civic and Cultural District.

OVER B20,000: THE RITZ-CARLTON, MILLENIA Killer views of the Marina Bay skyline plus real Andy Warhols and David Hockneys. Cleanlined guest rooms are organic yet futuristic at the same time.

From B13,100, www.kempinski.com

From B21,200, www.ritzcarlton.com

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travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

14

PHUKET

09 Amanpuri’s new Ital-

08

ian restaurant puts the focus on local seafood

Chiang Mai’s home of all-American pie in the sky

12

14

VIETNAM

FLIGHT

10 Escape to this idyllic

11 These new

Azerai (www.azerai.com) is a contemporary boutique hideaway on the tiny islet of Au in Can Tho, Vietnam. Perched on over 80,000-sq-meters of land on the Hau River, the hotel’s 60 rooms (from around B7,500/ night) each come in light, natural tones, with outdoor terraces and loungers overlooking either the tropical garden or river. From Can Tho Airport, take a 25-minute drive followed by a 10-minute boat ride to the resort, which offers two onsite restaurants, a fully-equipped gym with Pilates and yoga studios, a spa and pool. From there, you can explore the extensive canals and floating markets of the charming city of Can Tho.

Thai AirAsia X (www.airasia.com) has announced new direct flights between Bangkok’s Don Muang and Fukuoka, Japan. Starting from Jul 4, the five-hour flights will run four times a week. After low-cost airline Jetstar dropped the route back in 2016, bargain flights to Fukuoka have been few and far between. Now, you can snag a round-trip for around B7,000 (excluding luggage)—almost half what rivals Thai Lion and Thai Airways charge. Situated on the northern shore of Japan’s third largest island, Kyushu, Fukuoka is a dreamy city known for its beaches, malls, yatai (street-food stalls) and ancient sights like Tochoji Temple.

Mekong Delta islet

CHIANG MAI

A traditional Thai-Lanna home close to the hilltop Wat Phra That Doi Kham is the unlikely setting for American-style pie specialist Baan Pie Charin Cafe and Bistro (www. fb.com/baanpiecharincafeandbistro). The interior comes in an equally incongruous rustic-industrial style, with polished concrete flooring, red brick walls and shiny leather sofas. Gawp at the scrumptious display of pies, whose names are enough to have your mouth watering—Lemon Supreme, Boston Cream, Strawberry Cheese (B85), Coconut Custard (B75)—before heading out to the greenery-shaded front porch to enjoy your slice.

There’s also a range of Thai and Western hot dishes and various other baked goods on offer.

While it might say “heartwarming Italian” on the menu of uber-luxury resort Amanpuri’s latest restaurant, Arva (bit.ly/2LdG4d0), rest assured that the seafood is all local. Snapper, lobster, soft-shell crab, tiger prawns, mud crabs and grouper all come from a single island fisherman, while the restaurant’s chickens and eggs are raised by a local orphanage. Head chef Stefano Artosin puts them to work in hearty sharing dishes—whether it’s the catch of the day grilled with avocado and cherry tomatoes (B1,500) or luscious plates of spaghetti alle vongole (B850)—alongside premium imported proteins from wagyu steaks to lamb chops (both B1,900). Come evening, the breezy open dining room is made for romantic sundowners.

Fukuoka flights are a Japanophile’s dream

WANT TO KNOW THE BEST DEALS IN BANGKOK? BK Privileges is your gateway to exclusive deals from restaurants, gigs, hotels, bars and more.

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CONCERT PROMOS

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AND MORE!

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5/3/19 4:57 PM

food & drink | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

15

HOT OF THE PASS

12

Thonglor’s Japanese community is crazy for this all-you-can-eat restaurant

IN THE HOUSE

Born in Japan’s Nikko brand of mid-range hotels, Hishou is causing a stir thanks to its all-youcan-eat tempura sets and buffet of homespun Kyoto-style dishes. For B1,100 during dinner service (6-10:30pm), choose from 18 different deep-fried courses including horse mackerel, white fish, shrimp, sweet potato and asparagus.

Or for B1,900 you can get all of the above on top of 12 premium items such as snow crab, scallop and camembert cheese. But the tempura’s just part of why Thonglor’s Japanese community is already going crazy for the place. Help yourself to rays of fresh salmon and tuna maki, bowls of soba and steaming pots of chicken and fish stew at the central buffet line. The chef describes it as Kyoto-style home-cooking, and you can expect to find it in hot demand during the daily lunch service (11:30am-2pm). Reservations are essential if you want to try the B580 sushi platter (seven pieces plus unlimited buffet) or B480 tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet with tonkatsu sauce and unlimited buffet). Hishou’s soaring dining room with its wavy wood-sculpture ceiling and stony surfaces is also a far cry from your regular buffet joint. There’s even a private omakase room that a business-y clientele reserve ahead for the day’s freshest catch (starting from B3,500 for eight pieces). Wash it down with bottles of sake from B400-B9,000. 1/F, Hotel Nikko, 27 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-080-2111

ALL IN THE BROTH

OH PORTO!

COFFEE O’CLOCK

13 Singapore street food cart-turned-chain comes to Bangkok

14 This seven-course Portuguese dinner is in six good hands

15 Chinatown’s Soi Nana is branching into daytime

From humble beginnings as a ‘60s push cart, Singapore’s Song Fa Bak Kut Teh now boasts over 20 branches across Asia. Conjuring a streetside ambience with colorful tiles and wooden shutters, their Thailand flagship is all about the signature tender pork ribs, which come in an addictively peppery broth that they’ll refill for free (from B220-250). For a Thai-exclusive, order the rice porridge (B120) with some patongo (dough fritters, B50), before finishing your meal with a tension-relieving oolong hot tea (B120). 3/F, Central World, 999/9 Rama I Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm

What’s all this talk about “new Portuguese” cuisine?

Find out May 16-17 when two chefs from Portugal fly in for a collaboration dinner with Il Fumo’s head chef Nelson Amorim. Ricardo Costa, executive chef of Porto’s only two-Michelin-starred restaurant, The Yeatman, and chef Alexandre Ferreira of Lamego’s School of Hospitality and Tourism—chef Amurim’s former professor and mentor—will whip up a seven-course menu (B5,400/person, plus B1,400 for wine pairing), featuring dishes like milk-fed veal with Jerusalem artichokes and barbecue sauce, and halibut with safflower and spring onions. 1098/2 Rama 4 Rd., 02-286-8833.

Not alcohol, you heathen! Thai ingredient-touting cocktail bar, Asia Today is now open from 10am on weekends, serving coffee. Not any old coffee, mind—well, what do you expect from the team who scale mountains covered in bees to obtain natural, local honey for their cocktails? So, trade your usual cappuccino for a taste of that nectar in the sweet Egg Nog (B150), with coffee, cream, honey and blended spices, or a Jack & Rose (B120), a fragrant mix of rose tea, coffee, jackfruit and jackfruit jelly.

35 Soi Maitri Chit, 097-134-4704. Daytime hours Sat-Sun 10am-4pm.

ARRIVE IN STYLE Forget win motosai— Luka Moto is offering a free shuttle service on Thailand’s very first demo models of BMW’s C400X and C400GT. Rides are available to customers through June in the Thonglor/Ekkamai area. Call 02-050-0469 at least 45 minutes before departure to book.

SWISH SWIMS Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 has recently opened its ninth-floor infinity pool to the public.

The B500 access fee can be converted to food and drink vouchers, leaving you to sip, swim and relax all day long.

BRITISH BRUNCH Here’s the brunch Suan Phlu has been waiting for: Olta is now open on weekends (11:30am-2pm), serving hits like eggs Benny (B300), hot smoked Scottish salmon with scrambled eggs (B450) and bloody Marys (B320).

Hangovers, be gone!

YOU SAID WHAT?

The news in online foodie posts

F&BNews-BK#762-10MAY2019.indd 15

“Was it really the end of a great era? The restaurant was always empty—obviously the people have spoken.”

FB USER ROHIT SACHDEV ON THE SUDDEN CLOSURE OF L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON.

“Worth every penny.”

“Love this dish”

FB USER RUSTY LERNER ON HOLEY’S B400 AVO SANDWICH.

@CHEFBEEPASTE BANGKOK ON SENSI’S EYECATCHING CAPRESE SALAD.

5/2/19 5:34 PM

food & drink | open doors

16 At Ash Kickers the meats speak for themselves The buzz: Ekkamai’s newest arrival may classify as an American smokehouse, but don’t arrive expecting to find barbecue ribs drenched in sweet tomato sauce.

Here, the succulent, tender woodsmoked meats are left to speak for themselves—no sauce necessary.

that mac ‘n’ cheese ever existed.

Go the whole hog with the Ash Kicker Combo (B1,360), which overflows with brisket, pork belly, kuala pork, smoked wings and hot link spicy sausage. Vegans are even taken care of with the Veggie Platter (B500).

The decor: A pitch-black facade fronted by trees and long, flowing wood tables sets the scene for the 120-seat American smokehouse within, where bright red walls add a pop of color. The covered outdoor seating area is cleverly poised for rainy season.

The drinks: Bourbon and rye are the bar’s main focus and their collection is possibly one of Bangkok’s most comprehensive—Evan Williams, Elijah Craig, Van Brunt, Michter’s and more. If you’re not hardcore enough to drink it neat, ease in with one of their mean cocktails (Bourbon Sour, B280). However, we recommend their smooth and mellow signature draft beer, Smoked Maibock (B260/285ml or B360/473ml), which is made using barley that’s smoked in-house.

The food: Chef-owner Colin Stevens and co-owner Gary Stewart draw their smoking methods from across the U.S. with one caveat: only wood is used (no gas or charcoal). This means the menu packs in succulent 16-hour smoked beef brisket (B880) and intensely tender beef short rib (B1,060) alongside slow-cooked Hawaiian kalua pork (B450). From the ketchup and mustard, to the pickled vegetables and breads—no meal is complete without a side of incredible spicy jalapeno cornbread (B150)—everything is homemade. More tastes of the deep south come in the cheesy corn grits (B230), so rich and creamy that you’ll forget

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Why we’d come back : Ash Kickers joins the handful of other worthy ‘cue joints—exemplary in its smoking techniques and quality cuts. Once you’ve tasted the depth of flavor in their meats, there’s just no going back. Kankanok Wichiantanon

30/7-8 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-1204088. Open Tue-Fri 5-11pm; SatSun 11am-11pm. www.fb.com/ ashkickersbkk

5/3/19 6:57 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

17

Seen Restaurant and Bar

TABLE TALK

NEW AND NOTED

17 Celeb chef transforms riverside rooftop

18 Thonglor’s vibrantly modern home of Italian comfort food

19 Channel Jackie O at Soi Somkid’s cocktail joint

The third global outpost of Portuguese celebrity chef Olivier Da Costa's Seen Restaurant and Bar (26/F, Avani Riverside, 257 Charoen Nakhon, 02431-9120) sees black and gold meet bold geometric motifs for a ritzy ‘80s vibe, toned down by the occasional bamboo flourish. The menu is devised by chef Da Costa, who’s got six restaurant brands around the world—order the giant Seen Taco (B620) stuffed with Alaskan crab meat, salmon, pomegranate, mango and guacamole.

Signature cocktails pack playful Asian twists like lemongrass-infused vodka, homemade ginger beer, galangal and kaffir lime syrup in the Don’t Call Me Mr. Mule (B400).

By the people behind furniture brand Minotti, Mio Food & Art (Alcove, 155 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-5516) strikes you first with its artsy curation of vibrant home accessories and neon artwork. This showroom-like space is in fact a dining room, serving the Italian comfort food of chef Antonio Facchinetti, formerly of Anantara Riverside. The octopus ink paccheri (large tube-pasta) spotlight hoouse-made pasta with roasted octopus and chili-garlic sauce (B490), while quality meat shines in the juicy 1,500g Tuscany Fiorentina (B3,500) steak. To drink, we recommend the Italian Lugana D.O.C from Lombardia (B300/glass) or the Pinot Grigio from Friuli (B250/glass).

Nightlife impresario Sanya Souvanna Phouma (Cactus, Sing Sing) has brought Jacqueline (1/F, Siri House ,14/2 Soi Somkid, Phloen Chit Rd., 094-868-2639) to the shiny new Siri House—a kind of hi-so members club where you don’t need membership. The elegant cocktail bar takes influence from former First Lady, ‘60s style icon and dedicated gin drinker Jackie Kennedy. Pull up a rattan barstool at the multicolor terrazzo bar or nestle into one of the mint velvet-upholstered seating nooks with a Paparazzo (B340)—a dirty negroni whose murky olive tang cuts right through the punchy mix of local Iron Balls gin, Campari and vermouth.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members: Get 15% discount Today – 31 Oct 19

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CPS Coffee CentralWorld, Terminal 21 and ICONSIAM. Open daily 10am-10pm (Terminal 21 Open Mon-Fri 7am-10pm, Sat-Sun 9am-10pm) All of CPS Coffee’s Bangkok branches feel very in-themoment thanks to their industrial design twists. It’s actually part fashion brand-turned-cafe, offering both menswear and womenswear lines. Its range of slow-brew coffees include two signature bean collections blended specifically for CPS Coffee: Copper Stout and Amber Ale. Aside from this, you can snag flavor-packed cold-brew teas, too, like White Tea Lemonade, Chai Rosé and Greentea Beehive. There’s also a respectable selection of pastries to tide you over until lunch.

All of this is ordered through sleek iPads, which adds a nice touch of convenience.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 15% discount on beverage Today – 31 Oct 19

5/3/19 6:57 PM

Mobidrip x Mother Roaster

TABLE TALK

J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain U Sathorn Bangkok, Sathorn Soi 105/1 (Ngam Duphli), 02-119-4899. Open Wed-Sun noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm; Mon noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm Set in the U Sathorn Bangkok hotel, J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain is refined and elegant. The interior is dominated by pearly white and purple tones, and there are tables shaped to look like chandeliers running alongside the open kitchen.

Speaking of that kitchen team, they are hard at work reorganizing the restaurant’s menu to incorporate more local ingredients. The restaurant’s extensive wine list from both Old and New Worlds is as good as ever.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 15% discount on food only, except lunch set menu and special menu by Chef Jean-Michel Lorain Today – 31 Dec 19

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Mikkeller Discovery

NEW AND NOTED

20 This area is becoming Sukhumvit’s vegan haven

21 This 70-year-old barista is the talk of the town

22 Mikkeller brings craft beer to the masses at Siam

After closing shop in Seoul, Raw Vega (762/13 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-2614118) has opened in Bangkok across the road from Broccoli Revolution, bolstering this area’s plant-based credentials with a colorful menu of vegan goodies. Clean white brick walls and bright, natural lighting allow the singular, long, flowing wood table to take center stage, with tropical green ferns hanging overhead. The Raw Asian Wrap (B220) is a rainbow of pineapple, wasabi, seaweed, veggies and peanut-almond paste topped with homemade sweet chili-lime sauce. Complete your five-a-day with the Best Green Ever smoothie (B140), packed with all the good stuff.

Whoever thought coffee roasting was reserved for the bearded hipster youth has just been proved wrong

by Mobidrip x Mother Roaster (329/1 Mahaprutharam Rd., 061216-2277). From a tiny wooden booth close to Hua Lamphong, the 70-year-old barista/owner pumps out hand-pressed local (from B70) and imported (from B100) drip coffee, served in cups stamped with cute slogans like “Coffee doesn't make you sleepless. Love does.”

Small as the shop may be, there are two barstools where you can sit and chat about the various coffee beans and their tasting notes.

Situated within Siam Discovery’s multi-brand clothing store, Cazh, Mikkeller Discovery (1/F, 989 Rama 1 Rd.) hopes to introduce Danish craft brews to novices though their rotating 10 tap selection. Mikkeller favorites like Organic German Pils (B160/300) and Beer Geek Breakfast coffee stout (B210/390) sit alongside other international brewers (ranging from around B140-300/200ml). Chef Dan Bark of Upstairs Mikkeller has created a succinct sandwich menu, from Roasted Beets (B140/B350 including a pint) with dill cream cheese, toasted cashews and sliced radishes, to Roast Beef (B220/B420) with caramelized onion, horseradish aioli and pickles.

5/3/19 6:57 PM

food & drink | taste test

Who makes the best... glazed ring doughnut?

Our blind taste test goes back to basics with the enduring question: will the legendary Krispy Kreme keep its crown as the best glazed doughnut in the city (and, dare we say, the whole world)? By BK Staff

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

Krispy Kreme

BK Pick!

The buzz: Remember the crazy three-hour queues that this much-hyped US doughnut chain summoned when it first landed in Bangkok nearly a decade ago? The wait time may have died down, but our love for their original glazed doughnut remains fiery as ever.

The taste: Unanimously a winner in terms of flavor, look and smell. The dough hits that airy-yet-doughy sweet spot, coated in a smooth, even layer of glaze that melts in your mouth. Yes, it’s devilishly sweet, but it creeps up in a seductively mellow way rather than smacking you round the head.

Verdict: Kreme reigns supreme.

The price: B29

Dunkin’ Donuts The buzz: This pink-and-orange American chain has been a fixture in Thailand since as far back as we can remember, and remains as popular as ever—possibly thanks to strategic positioning in BTS stations citywide.

The taste: Simply put, this doughnut tastes cheap in every element: the airy dough comes with a strong yeasty smell and funky old oil taste, while the craggy glaze did nothing to help with its overwhelming sweetness.

Verdict: Airball.

The price: B19

Sublime Doughnuts

Yuck!

The buzz: This Georgia-hailing franchise opened its first location outside of Atlanta (and third branch overall) right here in Bangkok’s Siam Square a few years back. Now, it pumps out its signature "homemade"-style doughnuts in its new Fortune Town home.

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The taste: If you’re someone who loves bread, this doughnut is probably your best choice thanks to its dense, doughy and slightly chewy texture. Its cloyingly sweet icing is an indicator of the sugary treat that awaits you—it’s so thick that you’re almost afraid to finish the whole thing.

Verdict: Straight-up sugar.

The price: B29

Mister Donut The buzz: Another long-hauler from the US whose pocket-friendly goodies seep into just about every neighborhood in town.

The taste: This one almost reminded us of Chinese patongo, with a surprisingly bland taste despite its thin layer of runny, sticky icing. This is the kind of doughnut you could enjoy with coffee, though it’s probably not worth the added calories. That said, it still tastes far better than Dunkin’s.

Verdict: Calorie counting.

The price: B19

Daddy Dough The buzz: Thailand's homegrown doughnut chain claims its dough has zero trans fat thanks to its use of honey and apple juice as sweeteners. The price point is similar to that of Dunkin’ Donuts and Mister Donut, and the shop also serves savory pies.

The taste: Lightweight, soft and perfectly chewy, just nicely sweetened with a touch of saltiness to even the whole thing out.

Verdict: Balanced parenting.

The price: B28

5/3/19 6:57 PM

dining reviews

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

20

GUIDES Reach affluent urbanites through trusted publications with a six-month to one-year shelf-life.

Thaan

Thaan HH Steak. 68/6 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 086-303-1211.

Open Mon-Sat 5-11pm (reservations). BBBBBBBBB

Passing through Thaan’s perpetually smoky open kitchen that leads to its compact dining room feels like stumbling on a back-alley sensation. Barely seating 20, it’s a cozy, romantic, if slightly claustrophobic, space whose mix of European elegance and Japanese quaintness shouts money. Bottles of wine and contemporary art pieces line the walls, tasteful tableware has you squinting in the dim light to make out labels (those cordless lamps are from Aussie designers Neoz, by the way). A shiny Josper grill and a name that references a type of local charcoal would appear to promise meat (mostly flown in from Australia) that’s smoky and charred in good measure. On our visit, early on a Friday night, they’re out of the Australian wagyu “futari” oyster blade (B950 for 250g), but staff point us towards the Thai wagyu “Himawari” chuck roll (from B650/100g), only available in a considerably larger cut, and for almost twice the price per gram. What comes out is admittedly a nice glistening medium-rare (we weren’t asked our preferred doneness), if a tad under-seasoned. But it’s hard to justify the B2.5K spend on a cut of

Ratings H Forget it HH Only if you’re in the neighborhood HHH A pleasant dining experience HHHH Not to be missed HHHHH Flawless BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

beef so tough and gristly in parts—regardless of how local it is or what the cow may have eaten while alive (apparently, leftover bits from the sake-making process). Elsewhere Thaan dips into that old hi-so restaurant trick of adding premium imported ingredients where really there is no need. A gloopy mac and cheese is rendered all the gloopier by a massive hunk of foie gras (B420). The smorrebrod topped with not only 50g of A4 wagyu but also a hefty blob of uni (B580) is so over-the-top it just about works—shame this tiny textural luxury melts in your mouth in an instant, leaving only a twinge of buyers’ regret. We’ll vouch for decent standbys like the charred triple corn (B250) served with burnt butter and feta cheese or the not-toochewy beef tongue with a mild salsa verde (B250), but can’t shake the feeling of being fleeced. Staff, mostly attentive to the point of being cloying, can drop the ball. It’s only after umming and ahhing over the organic wine menu (from B500 by the glass, B1,600/ bottle) for five minutes that the waitstaff tell us there’s another “normal” wine menu (from B350/glass, B1,400). Bangkok’s crying out for more cool, indie steakhouses. This sleek spot is half-way there, but leaves more of a mark on your wallet than your memory.

We’ll stick with the tried and trusted hotels for now.

Price guide Under B500 B500-1,000 B1,000-2,000 B2,000-3,000 BBBBB Over B3,000 Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

B BB BBB BBBB

Symbols

Reservations recommended

Parking

Dress requirements Live music

H F E G

INTERN WITH US! (MARKETING, EDITORIAL, ART AND VIDEO DEPARTMENTS.)

To be featured in our upcoming 2019 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696

You must be at least 18-years-old You must send in a cover letter and resume.

Specify which department you are applying for.

Open to Thai and foreign nationals Internships are full-time, unpaid and last 3 months.

Candidates should be fluent in both Thai and English. Send your resume and a cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th

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5/3/19 4:59 PM

food

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

21

Pick of the Season Believe it or not, this unbearably hot weather has a juicy silver lining: seasonal fruit. Mark these dates on your calendar so as not to miss out. By Kankanok Wichiantanon

APR-AUG

Durian

Thailand’s mighty king of fruit rules supreme thanks to its notoriously powerful flavor and smell. They say you either love it or hate it, but for those who are undecided, now’s the time to give this buttery, creamy beast another go. When it comes to different varieties, each offers a slightly different texture: opt for Monthong for the sweetest and butteriest taste (from B80-B150/kg), Chanee for a rich flavor and fragrance (from B65-100/kg) and Gaan Yao for the creamiest of all (from B70-120/kg).

Try these dishes: Remember last year, when Pizza Company launched their controversial durian pizza? Outrageous! Durian’s place is clearly in desserts, so head to Water Library Brasserie (5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit, 061-825-2532), where they’ve set up “Durian Corner” just for the summer with decadent durian panna cotta (B90), durian mille feuille (B120), durian financier cake (B120), durian caramel pudding (B90), durian kaya bread (B120) and even durian soft serve (B90).

JUN-AUG

Longan

Encased in a light brown shell, these bite-size balls of sweetness make for a perfect snack.

When in season, this fruit can be found very easily for around B35-40/kg, though the plumpest, juiciest varieties may cost up to B50/kg.

Try these dishes: Because longan is so juicy and sweet, and has a very light smell, it’s often used in Thai desserts like the popular sticky rice pudding with coconut milk, which can be found at any typical Thai dessert spot and street-side carts—try it for just B25 at Jim Kanom Thai (The Old Siam Plaza, Tri Phet Rd., 081-557-3761), or sample it in cake form (B95), layered with young coconut and fresh longan frosting, at Wantong Cafe (Chatuchak Market, Section 26 Soi 1/4, 088-885-7751).

At supermarkets, you can also find dried longan.

APR-JUN

Lychee

Packing in the sweetness of grapes, tart citrus undertones and floral notes, this complex fruit makes for the most refreshing summer treat. Plus, it costs a very reasonable B35-40/kg when in season.

Try these dishes: Why mess with something so perfect? We recommend simply buying a bag from a street-side fruit stand and eating them as they are.

APR-JUN

Mango

There are many different types of mango grown across Thailand, but only a handful of favorites: khaio sawoei, rad paet, ok rong and the most popular, nam dok mai, whose sweet, smooth flesh when ripe is out of this world (usually B50-100/kg).

Try these dishes: Over at Le Du (399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-9199969), a jazzed up version of mango-sticky rice with a smoked coconut ice-cream is center of attention right now (part of the tasting course menu B3,590). Thirsty? R.Haan’s (131 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-059-0433) signature cocktail, Thongkum (B380), sees a Thai spirit mixed with mango and lime juice.

MAY-SEP

Mangosteen

You can’t have a king without a queen, and who other to take the throne than this juicy, succulent orb. Mangosteen’s pleasantly sweet flesh comes with a light, underlying zing of tartness. It’s very much like a crossbreed between a peach and a lychee with its soft, distinctive floral scent. It usually goes for an affordable price of B35-B45/ kg when in season, though gets ridiculously expensive the rest of the year, so get ready to gorge.

Try these dishes: You might be familiar with the refreshing sala (snake-skin pear) braised in syrup and served with a crushed ice, but this season is all about its mangosteen spinoff. Try it at Mangkud Cafe (94/87 Ratchapruek Soi 34, 02432-0968), where they serve it with butterfly pea-infused syrup (B75). If you happen to head south this summer, mangosteen becomes a popular replacement for papaya in somtam at many restaurants.

FEB-JUN*

Mayong Chit

If you’ve noticed something that looks like a cross between a yellow plum and a teeny tiny mango filling up streetside carts, that will be this fiber and vitamin C-rich treat. Its slightly sour edible skin gives way to sweet flesh within—look for egg-sized fruits with a deep yellow-orange color to make the hefty B200-400/kg price tag worth it.

Try these dishes: 80/20’s new summer menu (B3,000/nine courses) features a refined dessert of frozen honeycomb and 10-year-aged honey, topped with goat cheese, mung bean crumble and preserved mayong chit. Alternatively, After You Dessert Cafe is serving mayong chit kakigori (B195) and mayong chit frappe (B155) in all its branches. * Most varieties end around April.

= Available from

SEASON’S GREETINGS

Pick Your Own Lek and Greg Vegan Camp Two hours’ drive south of Chiang Mai city, this family-run farm-stay allows visitors to pluck fruit from their organic orchard: nam dok mai mangoes and rare plum mangoes (April to June); longan (July to August); passion fruit (August to October); and bananas and papayas (year-round). Camp overnight B200/person. Li, Lamphun, 095-684-9669. www. fb.com/LekGregVeganCamp

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Suphattra Land The one-million-sq-meter orchard in Rayong is basically a fruit amusement park, replete with huge, colorful statues. A buggy will take you on a tour through 25 tropical varieties, including durian, mango, rambutan, jackfruit, dragon fruit, pineapple, papaya and banana. The whole tour ends in an unlimited fruit buffet. Entrance costs B500 per person. Tours from April through July. 71 Moo 10, Nong Lalok, Ban Khai, Rayong, 081-588-1519. www.suphattraland.com

Suan Paiboon A must visit for durian lovers due to its wide selection of both common and rare varieties in Rayong.

You’ll also find mangosteen trees along with other tropical fruits like mayong chit and rambutan. Note that the orchards only open when the fruits are in season—usually between April and August. Their fruit buffet costs B400 per person. 21 Moo 4, Na Ta Khwan, Ban Tapong Nok, Rayong, 082-210-0188. www.fb.com/suanpaiboon

5/2/19 6:54 PM

shopping | green fingers

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

22

GET THIS

Cliff N.

Plant Life

Beginner houseplants for people who kill everything they touch

Bring a touch of nature and color into your home at the best plant markets in the city.

Words and photos by Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

587/10 Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd. Open Tue 3pm11pm; Wed-Thu 8am-5pm

11th Infantry Regiment’s Plant Market

106/1218 Phahonyothin Rd. (opposite Wat Phra Si Mahathat). Open daily 8am-5pm

Liab Tang Duan Plant Market

The place: As the name (“the plant market located along the expressway”) suggests, this market transforms the narrow sidewalk along the Ramintra-Ajnarong expressway into a quaint, leafy space dedicated to mostly ornamental and indoor plants, as well as gardening tools and decorations. It also connects to a back soi (Sukhonta Sawat Soi 38), where you can park your car and explore even more shops selling cacti and hanging plants.

The goods: Impressively curated collections of luscious houseplants and vividly colorful, healthy-looking flowers—think luck and prosperity plants like Chinese evergreen and fragrant orange jasmine; moon cacti; and Euphorbia milii (crown of thorns).

A few herbs and edible plants can be found here, too, including eggplants and cherry tomatoes.

Prices: B85 for a small stone roses cactus; B120 for a moon cactus; B200 for Chinese evergreens; and B400 for Holland hydrangeas.

How to get there: Since there’s no public transport nearby, the easiest way is by car or taxi.

6/13 Pradit Manutham Rd. Open daily 8am-5pm

The place: Don’t be put off by its name just yet.

Talad Nat Ton Mai Rarb 11, as the locals call it, was founded to help military housewives and their families earn more income, and is one of Bangkok’s finest plant markets thanks to its solid selection. If you get there around noon, you may notice that most stalls are vacant of vendors— this is because they’re all indoors somewhere nearby to escape the heat! To make a purchase, simply call the number on the blue sign (every stall has one), and they’ll come to assist you.

The goods: Ornamental plants and flowering shrubs are towards the front, while further back you’ll find perennials and specimen trees.

There’s no shortage of edible plants and herbs like mint, peppermint, basil and

NEW_ShoppingFeature-BK#762-10MAY2019.indd 22

BK Pick!

Thonburi Market Sanam Luang 2

The place: This sprawling, 110-rai market is simply an oasis. Its friendly, lively vibe is similar to Chatuchak, with sections dedicated to everything

carrotmadman6

from furniture and food to second-hand clothes and, of course, plants. The plant zone is jampacked with hundreds of stalls selling everything you could ever want, with knowledgeable and passionate vendors who are happy to advise you on how to keep your greens thriving.

The goods: Whatever you can think of, there’s a very high chance this market has it. As well as a wide range of edible plants, spices and herbs, fruits—think durian, guava and Vietnamese red pomelo—orchids, cacti, bonsais, and countless lucky plants of various sizes, you’ll also find aloe vera, coffee trees, pine trees, jasmine—you get the picture. There’s also a great selection of gardening tools, fertilizers, plant pots, chic ceramics and various seeds.

Prices: B10-30 for tiny potted plants; B50 for three pots of Croton tree; B80 for crown of thorns and rose periwinkle; B100 for a small Arabica coffee tree; up to B500 for a big and luscious desert rose; around B20 for plastic plant pots and trays.

How to get there: You can take the 515 bus from Victory Monument and get off at the Phutthamonthon Market stop. From there, it’s under 10 minutes by taxi. Driving is not recommended, as parking is hard to find.

ALOE VERA Do not overwater aloe plants.

Ever. Like cacti, aloe plants are succulents, so they can go a very long time without water.

Watering two-to-three days per week is more than enough. naturepost

The place: This much-loved green haven only opens on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, and occupies the inner circuit of Chatuchak market. The vibe is lively, yet way more relaxed than its weekend sister. Be warned: it gets hot.

The goods: This is a one-stop shop, offering everything from plants for good luck and prosperity like Pisonia grandis and camphor trees, to cacti, bonsais, orchids, air-purifying house plants, herbs and exotic fruits like tamarind and garcinia cowa (a type of orange). There’s plenty of gardening equipment, too, including plant pots, watering cans and fertilizers.

Prices: B10-20 for small cacti; B30-80 for potted plants; B50-80 for Mona lavenders and hydrangeas; and anywhere from B50 to B25,000 for bonsai trees.

How to get there: BTS Mo Chit, MRT Chatuchak Park and MRT Kamphaeng Phet are all within a few minutes’ walk.

betel leaf either. This market also offers gardening services and supplies, as well as lots of lovely hand-painted ceramics at affordable prices.

Prices: B20 for purple heart; B30 for lady palm; up to B1,000 for popular lucky house plants like fiddle-leaf fig trees.

How to get there: The 34, 39 and 59 buses from Victory Monument will take you all the way there. Hopefully by next year, the BTS Green Line extension will be open, which will include the 11th Infantry Regiment station located right outside the market.

195/1 Klong Thawi Wattana Rd. Open daily 8:45am-6pm

Thewet Plant and Flower Market

The place: Nestled along Krung Kasem Road between Thewet’s fresh market and Wat Noranartsoontarikaram in the Old Town, this low-key plant market is one of Bangkok’s oldest. It only has around 50 stalls but it’s a solid place to pick up lush and healthy plants and handy equipment.

The goods: Mostly small and medium plants, including an impressive range of lucky plants, orchids, lotus flowers, (lots of) orange trees, cacti and succulents, plus a few herbs and kitchen plants. Gardening equipment, hand-painted clay pots, soils, fertilizers and coconut coir (a soil alternative) are also available.

Prices: B20 for marigold and little yellow star; B20-40 for cacti; B30-300 for orange trees, depending on size; B60 for the air-purifying golden hahnii; and B100-600 for aloe vera.

How to get there: The easiest and quickest way is to take a taxi, but if you’re in the mood for sightseeing, you can take the orange flag Chao Phraya Express Boat from Sathorn Pier (Central Pier) and get off at Thewet Pier (N15).

CROWN OF THORNS These guys require at least half a day of sunlight, but since they’re succulents, they don’t need a lot of water. Water this plant thoroughly two days per week, and make sure to allow any excess to drain off. naturelandscapes

Chatuchak Plant and Flower Market

ARABICA COFFEE PLANT These guys don’t need direct sunlight but keep in mind that you should water them at least once a day.

JASMINE Jasmines do need regular watering but you should always let them dry out before their next drink. In other words, don’t overwater! Two-to-three days of watering per week should be fine. Also make sure your room is well lit, because jasmines love light!

Krung Kasem Rd. Open daily 9am-6pm

5/3/19 5:01 PM

neighborhood | sukhumvit soi 53

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 10, 2019

23

Zudrangma Records

Yoshibar

Bo.lan

Model Market BKK

Promphan 53 condo

The Hidden Thonglor While Thonglor is full of swanky restaurants, glitzy clubs and bars, walking down the tranquil, leafy sois of Sukhumvit 51 and 53 is a real contrast.

Besides the rows of dream homes, these two parallel sois boast charming cafes and cool bars, as well as some of Bangkok’s finest eateries. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

Coffee & Breakfast The newly opened Instagram hotspot Phak Cafe & Crafts (Sukhumvit Soi 51, 099-292-4421) offers almond croissants (B165) and caramel lattes (B145), but for a hearty full breakfast (B390) the quaint Herringbone (26/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-009-2022) at Volve Hotel has you covered.

For a crepe fix, try The Missing Piece’s (31 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-259-8531) durian crepe with sticky rice and ice cream (B280), or head to Crepes & Co. (9:53 Community Mall, Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02258-2672) for a breakfast-friendly Crepe Supreme (B325), which drenches egg, bacon, ham and mushrooms in cheese and bechamel sauce.

Lunch & Dinner Newcomer The 51 Tasty Moments (64 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 092-5525012) dishes out delectable tapas

(B390-B590), mezze, cheese and cold cuts in an artistic, laid-back setting. Sukhumvit Soi 53 is home to fine-dining trailblazer Bo.lan (24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2962), where chefs Bo and Dylan present traditional Thai food in a contemporary style. Hit up Baan Khanitha (31 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-259-8530) for stir-fried Ayutthaya giant prawn with cashew nuts and tamarind sauce (B1,100), or if Japanese food tickles your fancy, stop by the tavern-like Teriyaki Bar Kelly’s (46 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-5155) for izakaya classics, Yakiniku Kirabi (46/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 093-4341717) for a kuroge wagyu karubi set (B999) or the two-story sushi bar-slash-fresh market Nippon Kai Market (124 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-5683). Visit Arroz (112 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-7696) for a taste of Spanish chef Victor Burgos’s satisfying seafood paella (B1,200 for 2, B2,300 for 4).

Arroz

Teriyaki Bar Kelly’s

Drinks Groove to live molam music while knocking back yadong cocktails (from B150) at Studio Lam (Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661) or soak up some art while sipping on a Moscow Mule (B320) at next door WTF Gallery and Cafe (7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246).

Sake fans can check out the new Yoshibar (9:53 Community Mall, 124 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-1152944)—try the rich Shichihonyari Teiseimai Junmai (B260) from Shiga. Feel like belting out some tunes after all that? Woodball (2 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4549) offers a three-hour all-you-candrink and all-you-can-sing deal (B600/person).

Accommodation The well-established, boutique -style Raintree Villa (108/89 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 086-338-7490) starts from B17,000/month for a

31-sq-meter one bedroom. Close by, Phromphan 53 (89 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-108-1111) costs from B40,000-150,000/month, while The Habitat Sukhumvit 53 (Sukhumvit Soi 53, 082-339-3751) will set you back B50,000-130,000/ month. The Forty Nine Plus 2 (Sukhumvit Soi 49/2) starts from a more affordable B22,000/month.

Visit The second floor of Phak Cafe & Crafts is a multi-label store dedicated to hip, sustainable clothing.

Head for a crate-digging session at neighboring Zudrangma Records (7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 083-0631335), where you’ll find molam and luk thung artists. Kick back at Bangkok’s first upcycled Model Market (Sukhumvit Soi 53, 085223-4324) to browse eco-friendly local brands like The ReMaker for upcycled leather goods.

BK ASKS

Why 53 and not Thonglor?

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PAVEE TANSIRIKONGKOL, OWNER OF HERRINGBONE “You get the best of both worlds here—the peaceful gated community lifestyle, while still being well-connected to the trendy side of Thonglor.”

YUTTANA ANOTHAISINTAWEE, OWNER OF THE REMAKER “There’s a charming contrast between day and by night— from a tranquil residential soi to a cool late-night hangout spot.”

YOSHITO SUZUKI, OWNER OF YOSHIBAR “Sukhumvit Soi 53 is a quiet, peaceful residential soi scattered with many cool bars and restaurants, but it’s not densely packed.”

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