BK E-Magazine 757, Feb 22 2019

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it's free!

What is Sato? Bangkok’s next big drinking trend, that’s what Totes Reusable Bangkok’s most stylish recycled tote bags Talking Tacos Who delivers Bangkok’s best?

Beat the Tourists Skip Hoi An’s UNESCO heart and see the real town Vote tk BK NO. 757 FEB 22, 2019. www.bkmagazine.com

Can Thailand turn the tide against plastic waste?

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2019

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Who's in charge?

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon

upfront

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Digital Director / Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Digital Content Assistant Kawee Jarach Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Kankanok Wichiantanon

This recycling app might become reality

The masterminds behind Mahanakhon beer and Let The Boy Die bar have launched a fresh new lager that’s set to shake up the local brewing scene. Part of Sivilai’s appeal is the price: retailing at supermarkets for B69, it’s around B100 cheaper than most Thai craft beers on the market. This refreshingly crisp 5% ABV lager is now available at various bars around Bangkok like Changwon Express and Wishbeer.

Video Content Manager Wanlop Rungkuvijad Video Designer Saranya Laowtrakul Videographer Nattapol Srisukh Junior Video Editor Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul

Marketing Manager Jainjit Limthornbenjapol ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Developer Wasan Wangrach Writer-Translator Tripop Leelasestaporn Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara

What we’ve learned That Thai craft beer now costs less

Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri

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06 cover

Turning the tide on plastic waste

That Sukhumvit 53 might be getting a dose of our favorite bar A new community mall on Sukhumvit Soi 53 is set to bring some BK favorites to the area, including Italian restaurant Peppina and a pop-up from BK BAD Awards’ Bar of the Year, Tropic City. Named “The Model Market,” we’re excited to see what else they have in store!

SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writer Atiwat Uton Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri

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Contributors Angela Symons, Kathy MacLeod

travel

Intern Aomthong Linthong, Jidapa Kanogsirima

Beat Hoi An’s tourist droves

Cover photo by Poonsawat Suttama

That Thonglor’s fancy new Japanese hotel is money With branches across Japan, China, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Vietnam, the U.S. and Germany, Okura Hotels’ sub-brand Hotel Nikko has touched down in Thailand. Located at 27 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), the 22-story Hotel Nikko Bangkok features 301 rooms from around B3,500 per night.

Onsite dining includes Japanese restaurant Hishou as well as casual all-day dining at The Oasis.

Asia City Media Group

That Thai reality TV is about to get juicy MTV’s pioneering reality TV show The Real World is coming to Thailand and has already put out a call for casting. The premise: gather seven young adults (aged between 1828) to live in the same house and do what young people do: drink, trash talk one another, grow up. Sort of like Big Brother, but no one gets kicked out. Early seasons of the show were also renowned for addressing pertinent topics of race, religion and politics, though we’re not holding our breath. The Real World Thailand will air in June via videoon-demand streaming service Facebook Watch.

Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

Where to find us!

The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

22 drink

The new yadong

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2019 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co., Ltd., 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250.

18 open doors

Nonthaburi calling

get in the loop

bkmagazine.com

contests, updates, stories

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latest news and trends

@bkmagazine

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25

taste test

neighborhood

Insert taco pun

Spirit of St.Louis

That Bangkok’s taxi scene has a new player Watch out Grab and Line Taxi, the HaHa Taxi App has arrived and it looks to be a fierce rival. Howa International Co, the operator of Taxi Radio and Suvarnabhumi Taxi Cooperative, has invested B20-million to launch the new service, which targets premium passengers in prime areas such as hospitals, department stores and five-star hotels.

A surcharge of B50 and an advanced booking fee of B150 for up to three hours in advance aims to eliminate denial of service to passengers.

That “Gaggan’s” wine bar is here Or more accurately, Vladimir Kojic, his long-time head sommelier’s wine bar is here. It’s called Wet and the drinks—funky, small-batch producer stuff with minimal chemical interference—kick off from B360 per glass. Then there’s Anand’s bar snacks (“Sexually Charged” pasta, “Psycho” chicken karaage) that are nearly all under B500, as well as uber-cool interiors from the team who did Teens of Thailand. Result!

see what’s happening

@bkmagazine

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upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2019

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HOT OR NOT

SATO

These students aim to solve Thailand’s plastic problem through an app

Finally! A hipster, under-the-counter, locally-brewed spirit we actually love to drink.

Sato is the fermented rice wine you’ve never heard of. Sometimes fruity. Sometimes sour.

Sometimes sweet.

Always illegal when homebrewed and distributed without paying liquor duties— so you won’t find out where to drink it on page 22.

INTERVIEW

Tanakitti “Bank” Sachati, 21, Bundit “Bun” Hou, 20, and Sarayut “Kopkap” Lawilai, 21, students at Mahidol’s Faculty of Information and Communication Technology, recently won the fourth annual Asian Conference on Campus Sustainability in Seoul, South Korea, for their smart bin project that would automatically reward users for recycling. We met up with them on campus to discuss their idea.

“There are no platforms for people to recycle” THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

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Tell us about the MU Recycle application.

Bank: We all understand that recycling is a good thing, but there is no motive or platform for anyone to actually do it. It’s like eating well and exercising regularly; unless something affects you directly, you don’t do anything about it.

People who recycle are either maids or people driving around in sa leng [three-wheel vehicles] buying and selling plastic in big lots. What if people just want to sell one or two bottles? So we created an app that gives you reward points to redeem every time you recycle.

How does it work?

Bun: First, you need to download the MU Recycle application on your phone and create a profile.

There’s an online map to tell you where to find smart bins nearby. Once you find the bin, there’s a QR code for you to scan via the application in order to receive points. When the screen says “Ready” you can put the plastic bottle in the bin and your phone will tell you how many points you’ve just received.

What other projects in Seoul did you find interesting?

Bank: I feel like the reason that we won was because other projects were more about campaigning and raising awareness, but we created a practical solution to a problem using technology. There was a project from another Thai university, I forgot which one, trying to campaign for people to stop using single-use plastic bags by creating a viral video and taking notes on the positive impact it made on people.

Confession time. All those stories where we praised moonshine Thai whiskey infused with what tastes like aniseed and old socks—we were lying. That stuff may give you a pounding erection (if you believe old dudes with no teeth peddling it at motorbike stands), but it tastes disgusting.

Good riddance.

What did you get from winning?

Bank: We didn’t get any big prizes but there were people coming to swap business cards with us. At the moment, the university ICT faculty is funding the project.

Do you think Thailand has a recycling problem?

Bank: We are still working on that and haven’t decided yet. The whole thing is still a prototype.

Bank: People don’t really pay attention to recycling. I feel like there are no platforms for people to do it, too. Like, if people want to recycle, Thailand still mostly only provides one bin for all waste.

Bun: People just put whatever trash in whatever bin they want. People probably feel like it doesn’t make any difference because they can’t see any impact now.

When do you think it will be ready for use?

What else can we do to help?

Bun: Around next year.

Bank: This is our senior graduation project, too.

We came up with the basic idea for the competition, but for it to be able to work, there are so many things that we need to look at.

Kopkap: We also need an investor.

Bank: The government should be more firm and create consistent standards; sometimes you see three different kinds of bins for recycling, while in other areas there is only one bin.

Bun: Maybe they could support businesses that use recyclable plastic by helping make it cheaper for them to buy. Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

How much are the reward points worth in money?

YADONG

NYLON JACKETS Seeing all these campaign posters with airbrushed old men in nylon zipper jackets feels weirdly surreal. It’s like waking up in the early 2010s when Bangkok never seemed to not be having an election.

And what’s with the guy on Prachachart’s poster? Did they just Faceswap Prawit and Prayuth? Whatever, he looks very trustworthy.

BROADCASTING OK, before we move any further with the election, are we all agreed that Voice TV’s broadcasts reflect political bias while standing prime minister and Prachachart candidate Prayuth’s weekly TV program doesn’t? Yes? Good, then let’s continue with the free and fair democratic process.

by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2019

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cover | reduce, reuse, recycle

Plastic Not-So Fantastic A marriage of convenience: can Thailand ever overcome its love affair with plastic?

By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

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ast June, a whale with over 80 plastic bags in its stomach washed up dead in the southern province of Songkhla. Five months later in November, the same incident occurred in Indonesia, when a dead whale was found washed ashore with more than six kilograms of plastic waste in its stomach. The Guardian reported that the whale contained 115 plastic cups, four plastic bottles, 25 plastic bags, two flip-flops, a nylon sack and more than 1,000 other pieces of plastic.

According to a 2017 report by Ocean Conservancy, a nonprofit environmental advocacy group based in Washington, D.C., Thailand is among the top five Asian countries—alongside China, Indonesia, Vietnam and the Philippines—responsible for more than half of the eight million metric tons of plastic waste dumped into the world’s oceans annually.

This comes as no surprise. Thailand’s plastic use has been out of control for years. We are heavy users of single-use plastic bags; street and fresh market vendors bag each food item separately, while we’ve all experienced convenience stores bagging up items as small as a pack of gum, as well as mindlessly giving out straws with every possible beverage item. According to the Bangkok Post, the growth of Thailand’s plastic industry since the 1970s has fed into the country's increasing domestic consumption, with plastic usage growing 12 percent annually. On average, they claim, each Thai uses eight bags per day, which equates to almost 200 billion bags per year.

Finally, the Thai government has started to address this problem. In June 2017, Thailand pledged at an international forum to reduce plastic use, with Thai delegates admitting that waste mismanagement was the major cause of the country’s poor record. As a result, the Thai government has included waste management in its 20-year national strategy.

Last June the Department of National Parks announced its ban on the use of plastic and foam in all of Thailand's national parks. In October, the Public Health Ministry stopped distributing plastic bags at 30 public hospitals around the country. The government has also teamed up with retailers to help reduce plastic bag distribution to consumers.

Last year on Dec 3, retailers and store operators nationwide signed an agreement with the Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment not to provide single-use plastic bags to shoppers on the fourth of each month, to coincide with “Thai Environment Day” on Dec 4 of every year. Tesco Lotus, Villa Market, Big C, MaxValu, Tops, Jiffy, Robinson, Foodland, Family Mart, Makro and Home Pro among others have all pledged their commitment to the agreement, launching their own initiatives to tackle plastic waste.

I was scared when we started the initiative, but most of our customers understand the purpose of our actions.

- Julien Duchateau, store leader of Decathlon

So why hasn’t Thailand’s plastic-use reduction really kicked off?

The initiatives launched by these small and large retailers are mostly “voluntary” campaigns. In some cases, “extra points” are given to shoppers who refuse plastic bags or who bring their own reusable bags. These retailers only have one or two designated no-plastic days a month—an effort that may not be strong enough to tackle this environmental issue.

Many operators, however, voice confidence in their campaigns. According to the official website of Central Food Retail Company Ltd., Phattaraporn Phenpraphat, executive vice president of marketing and public relations of Central Food

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2019

Retail Company Limited, operators of Central Food Hall and Tops Supermarket, announced, “We received great feedback and support from our customers during our International Plastic Bag Free Day campaign on July 3, 2018 in our 193 branches nationwide.

We were able to reduce giving and using 480,000 plastic bags in just one day.”

Since last October, Tops Supermarket has also introduced Green Check Out counters where no plastic bags are provided.

Sasiyada Wisesphao, a representative from the marketing department of Villa Market, says that their noplastic bag initiative has existed for the past two-tothree years, but the campaign became more serious in late 2018. “Villa Market cares about the environment.

Our plastic bags are biodegradable, but we try not to It is our respongive out any to customers,” she says. “We also don’t put them on display at the cashiers.” sibility as retailers However, Sasiyada’s claim doesn’t ring true. A visit to service our to Villa Market at Silom’s Trinity Complex revealed two customers, othercashiers both with plastic bags on display and one staffwise they may accuse member dedicated to bagging customer purchases.

Still, on the 4th and 14th of every month, Villa Marus of taking advanket holds “plastic bag-free day,” from which Sasiyada tage of them, which believes they are able to reduce up to 50,000 plastic may lead to a backbags each month. “A lot of our customers are willing lash on social media. to cooperate too, by bringing their own tote bags or by purchasing the ones provided by us,” she says. “If - Banyat Kamnoonwatana, they make big purchases, we will provide them with assistant vice president paper boxes. As for small purchases, we will have our of CP All Co. Ltd staff ask the customers whether they want to receive a plastic bag, to slowly adjust their shopping behaviors.”

While local retailers are taking a gradual approach to kick Thais’ plastic addiction, international chains like Ikea—which vows to ditch single-use plastic by 2020— and Makro are enforcing stricter measures. Neither provides any plastic bags to customers. Also joining this approach is French sporting goods retailer Decathlon, who have imposed a charge for plastic bags ever since they first opened in Thailand in 2015.

“To be honest, I was scared when we started the initiative. But in the end, most of our customers understand the purpose of our actions,” says Julien Duchateau, store leader of Decathlon Bangna. “The question of the use of plastic bags has been on the table from the start of our business in Thailand. By coming from a country where free-of-charge plastic bags are not allowed, doing the same in Thailand was my objective.”

When Decathlon opened its first store in Thailand, the team decided to have customers pay B1 for plastic bags.

Later, they stopped selling plastic bags completely and instead offered compostable bags (B4) and waterproof reusable bags (B30). “Compostable bags are better than regular plastic bags, but they still create a high ecological footprint. As soon as they’re

7 easy ways to reduce your plastic use

Say no to plastic straws out of stock, we will stop offering them at all of our 10 branches and only opt for reusable bags. We also strongly encourage our customers to bring their own backpack or reusable bags when they shop.”

CP All Public Company Limited, the operator of 7-Eleven convenience stores in Thailand—10,300 of them countrywide, as of Jan 2018—has no such measures.

“We have to meet customers halfway, by giving them options. Don’t forget that 7-Eleven has to serve up to 30 million customers who are all very diverse,” says Samrej Zeepongsekul, general manager of 7Eleven’s corporate brand strategy. “We believe that there are still a lot of customers who feel they deserve convenience and fast service when they come to us.

Even those supermarkets with all the campaigns, sure they may provide a special green check-out lane for eco-conscious shoppers, but for the rest of the lanes, they still need to give out plastic bags to service their customers. As retailers, we need to take the current consumer behavior into account, unless there’s a law to ban plastic bags, which there isn’t.”

Banyat Kamnoonwatana, assistant vice president of CP All Co. Ltd, also shifts responsibilities to customer behavior. “It’s the customers’ right to accept or refuse plastic bags. We can’t just force them not to, since it will go against the Consumer Protection Act, which is the law. It is our responsibility as retailers to service our customers, otherwise they won’t be happy and may accuse us of taking advantage of them, which may lead to a huge backlash on social media.”

Banyat says that 12 years of different environmental campaigns for 7-Eleven has taught him that Thais don’t like to be coerced. “An effective way to deal with Thai customers is to persuade them nicely, especially if there’s an incentive for them to join the campaign, which in many cases is to give a donation or merit.

Thais love giving merit,” he says.

On Dec 7, 2018, 7-Eleven launched the campaign “Reduce A Plastic Bag A Day. Yes, You Can” with rocker Athiwara “Toon” Khongmalai of Bodyslam. Banyad explains, “each time a customer refuses to take a plastic bag, we will record it in our system. The number of bags reduced will be turned into a donation of B0.20/bag to Siriraj Hospital to help purchase medical equipment for the Navamindrabopitr 84th Anniversary Building.”

He says that the number of plastic bags reduced and the amount of money donated will be shown

»

Plastic straws take 200 years to break down, and even then they turn into tiny pieces of microplastic that never truly decompose.

Carry reusable shopping bags Thais use over 70 billion plastic bags a year, each of which takes 10-1,000 years to decompose in landfill. Canvas tote bags are cheap and readily available (see page 24).

Stop using plastic cutlery Next time you order from Foodpanda or Polpa, let them know that you don’t need their plastic utensils.

Carry a reusable coffee mug or flask Statistics indicate that the world uses 500 billion plastic cups each year; of those, 16 billion are disposable coffee cups coated with polyethylene.

Avoid plastic packaging Opt for 100-percent natural bar soaps (try Banh or Bangkok Soap Opera) instead of shower gels, shampoo bars (check out Lush) instead of shampoo bottles, and bamboo toothbrushes instead of plastic ones. Or bring your own containers to Better Moon Cafe x Refill Station (Sukhumvit Soi 77/1, 086-375-3269).

Ditch plastic bot tles This is a no-brainer. If you want to stay hydrated on your commute, at the gym or at your office, remember to bring your own reusable water bottle instead of getting the single-use plastic ones at convenience stores.

Avoid using products with microbeads Microbeads are tiny plastic particles found in many cosmetics and personal care products like exfoliating face scrubs and toothpastes.

Microbeads don’t dissolve, but instead thousands of tons are washed into the sea every year, harming marine life.

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cover | reduce, reuse, recycle Reduce waste by donating your unwanted items to these non-profit organizations in Bangkok

Precious Plastic Bangkok A community-based plastic recycling initiative that uses simple-to-build machines to turn plastic waste into new products. www.fb.com/ PreciousPlasticBangkok

every day on 7-Eleven’s cashier screens. As of Feb 1, 2019, they had raised around B30 million. The campaign only runs until Feb 28.

As small and large retailers jump on the environmental bandwagon, leading Thai universities are also joining the green campaign. Mahidol University International College launched the “MUIC Says No to Plastic Bags” campaign to encourage students and members of the faculty to use tote bags instead of plastic bags when they shop at 7-Eleven stores on campus.

Thammasat University’s Rangsit Campus has also teamed up with CP All to reduce plastic use at 7-Eleven stores on campus, as well as at canteens and co-ops within the university.

At Chulalongkorn University, the “Chula Zero Waste Program” initiative launched in 2016 by the Environmental Research Institute in a joint effort with the Physical Resources Management Office hopes to reduce the amount of waste on campus to zero. Students are taught the importance of reducing plastic waste consumption and to be more mindful of how they throw away plastic waste on campus. The university also strongly encourages its students to be diligent carriers of reusable bags. It started charging B2 per plastic bag in all campus retail stores including Coops and 7-Elevens, while retailers are also encouraged to use 100-percent biodegradable “Zero Waste Cups” instead of normal plastic cups. By Dec 2018, the university was able to reduce 5.7 tons or around 382,500 plastic cups, while the use of plastic bags dropped by 88 percent, from 132,600 in 2016 to 14,588 in 2018.

While green campaigns launched by universities and retailers pave the way for a positive change to shun plastic use in Thailand, one question still remains—is it enough to raise awareness among Thai consumers, who, with serious addiction to plastic use, tend to put convenience before the environment?

“I strongly agree [with the campaigns] as it’s a positive start. However, since Thais have long been accustomed to using free plastic bags, they will have difficulty re-adjusting their attitude if all retailers suddenly come up with very strict campaigns by not giving out plastic bags at all—people will adamantly resist the idea, which will badly affect the campaigns in the long run,” says associate professor Dr. Chakkaphan Sutthirat, director of the Environmental Research Institute, Chulalongkorn University. “It is about asking consumers to cooperate in the initial phase. At the same time, more convenience stores and supermarkets all around the country should continuously be encouraged to run the campaigns.”

If retailers suddenly stop giving out plastic bags, people will adamantly resist the idea, which will badly affect the campaigns in the long run.

Chakkaphan also suggests that the Thai government should start changing Thai people’s mindset towards using free plastic bags through a series of campaigns that show the dire consequences plastics have on the environment, adding that for drastic measure, “The government should ramp up eco taxes and pass legislation to impose a plastic bag tax for manufacturers and retailers. It’s important that these policies are continuously enforced so Thais will get used to using less plastic and make carrying tote bags a habit.”

With many consumers loathe to forgo convenience, and retailers in turn cautious of upsetting their customers, it seems that penalties and legislation could be the only way to tackle Thailand’s plastic problem once and for all.

- associate director Dr. Chakkaphan Sutthirat, director of Chulalongkorn’s Environmental Research Institute

Pankan Society Donate your second-hand clothing, bags, shoes and household items, which will be resold to raise funds to support children’s scholarships at the Yuvabadhana Foundation. www.pankansociety.com

Second Chance Bangkok This local initiative by the residents of Klong Toey takes donations of quality second-hand goods and sells them to residents in the Klong Toey area at affordable prices. www. scbkk.org

Zero Baht Shop

7 kinds of plastics to be banned 2019: in Thailand Cap seals on water bottles between Oxo-degradable plastics 2019-2025* Microbeads

2022:

2025:

Foam food containers Plastic bags less than 36 microns thick

Single-use plastic cups Plastic straws

Located at On Nut Soi 14, this is Thailand’s very first swap shop organized by the Thailand Institute of Packaging and Recycling Management for Sustainable Environment.

Instead of throwing away single-use plastics, you can bring them here and swap them for consumer goods such as packaged food, drinks and many other household products.

*according to the Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2019

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hit list | 25 new reasons to love bang-

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2019

01

China’s answer to Zara arrives in Bangkok SHOPPING

If you’re a fan of Zara or Topshop but feel like branching out—or you’re simply fed up of spotting someone else on the BTS wearing the same blouse as you—then consider Urban Revivo (UR) your new go-to for trendy streetstyle pieces and hip workwear. While Bangkok shoppers may not be familiar with UR, the brand isn’t actually new. Founded in China in 2006, UR specializes in fashionable trend-led womenswear and menswear pieces that look like they’ve come straight off the runway, at affordable, high-street prices. In the IconSiam store, you’ll find the brand’s latest collection of womenswear spread over two floors, with plenty of colorful knits, chic dresses (B2,190), cool button downs (B1,490) and smart blazers (B2,190). Meanwhile, the top floor houses a curated selection of modern menswear, from off-duty pieces like Hawaiian shirts (B1,490) to smart-casual corduroy jackets (B2,890). The store is said to be the brand’s largest in Asia, occupying a total of 1,600-sq-meters over three floors. The brand has more than 200 stores in China in cities including Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou and Chengdu, as well as openings in Singapore and London. M-2/F, IconSiam, Charoennakorn Soi 5, 02-288-0033. Open daily 10am-10pm

NUMEROLOGY

The 5 SESERVRVICICEE most popular food delivery services’ fees, compared ERYY LIVER DELIV DE

Foodpanda B40 for every order

WELLNESS

FASHION

LAPTOP

02 Get your posture back

03 The term “vegan” just

got more fashionable

04 A 2-in-1 laptop for the

multi-tasker

Jet-lagged frequent flyers or office workers feeling the strain can check out Iriyabod, a quaint and affordable new pampering spot in Bangkok’s Old Town specializing in Thai and aromatherapy massage. Opt for “Jet Lagged Reviver” (B850/60 mins; B1,250/90 mins) for a full-body aromatherapy massage that aims to melt all your fatigue away, or try one of their four 90-minute programs—Sit, Sleep, Stand and Step (all at B1,500)—that tackle specific “posture” problems through a combination of Thai and aromatherapy massages. 1/F, Once Again Hostel, 22 Soi Samran Rat, 098-046-4524. Open daily 11am-8pm

Thought vegan shoes only come in the form of clunky, orthopedic and fugly-as-hell footwear?

Think again. Local shoemaker Hexa offers chic and elegant vegan high heels that you can rock from day to night. Made from imported cruelty-free man-made leather from Japan, combined with a sturdy, wide heel design and eco-ortholite cushioning, with Hexa, you’ll find that comfortable four-inch heels do exist. Our favorite goes to the “Ivy” (B4,799), a smart open-toe slingback that’ll add a bit of sass to your everyday workwear. 2/F, Central Chidlom, Phloen Chit Rd., 092-454-1849.

Open daily 10am-10pm. www.hexabangkok.com

What: HP Spectre x360 Price: From B49,990 Why? Apart from its attractive matte metal finish with chrome bronze accents, Intel Core i5 processor and a 4K touchscreen, what really shines about the HP Spectre x360 is that it’s a 2-in-1, meaning this fine-looker is a hybrid convertible that you can flip out from its standard laptop orientation into a 360-degree tablet—the kind of versatility you come to expect from today’s laptops. The HP Pen also adds a nice touch, while the lengthy 20-hour battery life can last through your full work day and binge-watching sesh on Netflix. www.hpstorethailand.com

on track at this indie spa in the Old Town Line Man

Starts at B55 B9 will be added for every 1km

Get Food No service charge

Grab Food

B10 per 1km for first 5km

Honestbee B70 or free if your order reaches the store’s minimum

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Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.

BUY IT BOY DE CHANEL MAKEUP COLLECTION Men’s makeup is in—it’s time to up your grooming rituals, lads (from B1,500 for lip balm).

BIN IT FACE SCRUBS AND SKINCARE PRODUCTS WITH PLASTIC MICROBEADS Protect marine life by switching products that contain microbeads for natural scrubs.

BARGAIN DR. MARTENS Spend up to B10,000 at Dr. Martens flagship store and receive a B1,000 Chinese ang-pau towards your next purchase (valid till Mar 31).

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2019

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SINGHA MUSIC PRESENTS KOLOUR IN THE PARK 2019

Singha Music’s flagship techno and house festival is better than ever

Kolour’s five-year run as Bangkok’s dominant open-air techno and house festival is impressive in its own right, but last year Kolour promised to up its game, and its 2019 line-up doesn’t disappoint.

The now single-day event hits Thai Wake Park on Mar 2. It boasts an extensive list of heavy-hitter DJs and producers from across the globe—headlined

by Belgian Charlotte de Witte, a female techno producer-slash-DJ who exploded in popularity in recent years thanks to hits like 2015’s “You’re Mine” clocking in millions of views.

The beefed-up artist ensemble (more on that below) follows Kolour’s new ambitions to become Asia’s number-one festival over the next several years. The event also pares back the timeline from two days to one, saying this provides a more immersive experience overall and helps guests get the most out of the festival while it is on.

Backing up Charlotte de Witte is some serious electronic firepower. The next biggest name on the list is arguably Masego, a jack-of-all-trades that boasts rapping, comedy, vocals, live saxophone playing and DJing among other creative talents.

Keeping with the soulful vibes, singer-songwriter SG Lewis is making the hike from Britain to spin his patented style of emotive house.

Also joining the party will be South African dance/ electronic artist Floyd Lavine, Portland-based disco, funk and R&B producer Yung Bae, NY and Ibiza-based house DJ/producer Eskuche, Romanian electronic musician ATMA, American ghetto house music producer Juany Bravo and Bang-

kok’s deep house and melodic techno live act Peking Opera.

The final wave of acts, just recently announced, includes Fur Coat, a Barcelona-based DJ and producer duo known for their unique salsa- and soul-inspired beats that they developed in Venezuela, and Hayden James, who’s been described by some as an “Australian electronic dance music genius” with subtle and delicate yet uplifting summer anthems layered with evocative vocals. The line-up rounds out with some local Thai acts, namely Boris Rubin, Dan Buri, Gramaphone Children, and Kuroten.

Like previous years, the festival will also include a range of art installations and roaming performances throughout Thai Wake Park. When you’re not busy cutting up a rug, the festival’s usual slate of food trucks, stalls, pop-up bars and mobile spa stations offer plenty of things to do when you need a break or to re-fuel.

For more information, see Singha's Facebook (www.facebook.com/singha) Tickets start at B1,500 (Kolour Plus+ are B2,900, which gets you access to VIP areas, afterparties, a private bar and a bunch more) and can be found on the event’s website. There are limited tickets available at the door for B2,100 (B3,900 for Kolour Plus+).

Check out the event Mar 2 at Thai Wake Park.

Kolourinthepark.com

Brought to you by Singha Music

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hit list | calendar NIGHTLIFE

05

Fem Film Festival celebrates women

SPIRITUALS II/FEBRUARY 22/SAFE ROOM Soulful electronic performances by Rocco Universal and Alex Imix. Feb 22, 10pm3am. Safe Room, Whiteline, Si Lom 8, 087- 061-1117.

B300 includes one drink.

HERCVLES LAUNCH AT STUDIO LAM Trasher resident DJYP teams up with Kolour’s Ekception for nu-disco, Italo-disco and deep house. Feb 22, 9:30pm.

Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B300.

To mark International Women’s Day 2019, Converse has teamed up with Bangkok Screening Room to present 10 films that delve into the obstacles women have encountered and the success stories of women in professional industries, politics and other aspects of life. From Mar 5-10, Fem Film Festival promises screenings of both cult classics—The Craft (1996), Thelma & Louise (1991)—and high-profile newer releases like Matangi / Maya / M.I.A. (2018), a documentary delving into the life of the talented, sometimes controversial, British-Tamil musician Mathangi Arulpragasam, aka M.I.A; and I am not a Witch (2017), the story of a young Zambian girl who is exiled to a “witch camp.” There will be a talk with social critic and well-known Chiang Mai feminist author Lakana Panvichai, also known as Kham Phaka, Saturday, Mar 9 at 6:15pm. For the full program, visit www.bkksr. com. Bangkok Screening Room, Saladaeng Soi 1, 094-125-9906. Tickets from B150.

I Am Not A Witch

SO POOL PARTY Cool down by the pool with live DJs spinning all afternoon. Feb 23, 1-9pm. SO Sofitel Bangkok, 10/F, 2 N Sathon Rd., 02-624-0000.

B600 includes on drink, B450 early bird, VIP packages range B10,000-30,000.

COSMICATS W/ROBBIE AKBAL [CROSSTOWN REBELS/AKBAL MUSIC] The Berlin-based Mexican house music veteran teams up with Boris Rubin and Dan Buri for a night. Feb 23, 10pm. Glow, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B350 including 1 drink.

BK Pick NITE RIDE: MODERN FUNK / BOOGIE / DISCO DJs Boogie G, Gramaphone Children and Maarten Goetheer spin music from the early disco days. Feb 23, 9pm.

Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B200.

THIS LOVE

MAC DADDY

06 Adam Levine’s ripped torso feat. 07 Mac Ayres performs his R&B

Maroon 5

music for the soul

Maroon 5 frontman Adam Levine took the leap from pop-crooner to full-blown meme with his shirtless Super Bowl performance earlier this month. Plenty of Bangkok fans will be baying for a closeup glimpse of his tattooed torso when the band bring hits like “This Love” and “Girls Like You” to our city for the fifth(!) time. The concert as part of their Red Pill Blues tour of Asia, Australia and Europe takes place on Mar 9 at Impact Challenger (Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani). Tickets start from B3,000 at Thaiticketmajor.

The 22-year-old R&B singer, songwriter, producer and multi-instrumentalist Mac Ayres brings his soulful vibe to RCA Live Arena on Mar 6 in support of his debut full-length album Something to Feel (2018). Ayres received international recognition for his debut single, “Easy.” in 2017, the American musician released his first EP, Drive Slow, which placed number 13 on Billboard’s Top 15 R&B Albums of 2017. Tickets start from B1,290 at www.ticketmelon. com. RCA Live Arena, 94, 23/92-94 RCA Rd., 098-974-6974.

BIG BANG: SWING DANCING AT PHRA PATHOM CHEDI 2019 Participate in the biggest outdoor swing dance session along with over 200 swingers. No experience required. Feb 24, 7pm. Phra Pathommachedi, Mueang Nakhon Pathom District, Nakhon Pathom. Free.

NO MIC OPEN MIC An opportunity to perform your poetry, tell stories and

share your ideas. Sign up before 8pm. Feb 26, 8pm.

Jam, Charoen Rat Soi 1, 089889-8059. Free.

FREE ENTRY: TUESDAY JAZZ WITH DJ BEN A whole night full of swing, nu-jazz and Latin music.

Feb 26, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-2616661. Free.

LIVE MUSIC THE SOUND OF UK Local bands play covers of well-known British names like Arctic Monkeys, Sex Pistols, Foals, Oasis, Biffy Clyro and Radiohead. Feb 22, 7pm.

The Rock Pub, Phaya Thai Rd., 099-191-5666. B350.

BK Pick MURMUR! SHOW - GLADES LIVE IN BANGKOK Sy d n e y - b a s e d a l t e r n a tive-pop trio makes debut show in Bangkok. Feb 23, 8pm. NOMA BKK, 21/66 RCA Rd., 080-939-7899. B950 from Ticketmelon.

RADTERNATIVE PARTY Live music performance by very political Thai bands Yena, Jinta and Rap Against Dictatorship. Feb 23, 7pm. De Commune, 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-419-7380. Free.

QUARTERBACK ASIA TOUR - BANGKOK The Taiwanese band performs live in Bangkok as part of their Asia tour with support from Moving and Cut & The Octopuss. Feb 25, 8pm. Play Yard, 7/8 Lat Phrao Soi 3, 085-146-8017. BTK.

WED LIVE MOLAM : TOOMTURN MOLAM GROUP Live Thai northeastern music performed in acoustic with influences from instrumental early molam from the 1960s and 70s sound of Kwanjai Kalasin Yuk Pattana Band, Audsawin Pinthong, Samai Onwong, and Dao Bandon. Feb 27, 10pm.

Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B200.

STALL LIFE

BANGKOK’S GOING CRAZY WITH MARKETS. CHECK THESE OUT.

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SOIMILK SUMMER MARKET Soimilk, BK’s younger sibling Thai publication, enters the world of market madness across two jam-packed days on Mar 2-3. On top of 50+ booths selling all types of food, fashion and crafts, market-goers will have the chance to learn all about tea-blending techniques from Som-Chayanit Cheysombat, owner of Orange Tea, brush up on the art of flower arrangement with Flower in Hand By P, and pick up exclusive bag collaborations from Juli Baker And Summer, Suntur and Hongtae. Live music throughout the weekend comes from TELEx TELEXs, De Flamingo and more.

Warehouse 26, Sukhumvit Soi 26. Entry is free.

MAD FACE FOOD WEEK Still hungry? Head over to Thonburi for the second coming of Mad Face Food Week on Mar 1-3. The massive celebration of all things edible gathers together more than 40 of the city’s top foodie names—chefs, bloggers, food truck pioneers and cocktail masters—for one-off creations and special events by the river. A sample of last year’s names ought to whet the appetite: 100 Mahaseth, Broken Eggs, Little Market, Appia, Tropic City and Mad Moa. Sermsuk Warehouse, 721 Charoen Nakhon Rd. B100.

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2019

13

four other Thai artists present work that expresses the unconditional bond between humans and dogs. Through Feb 24, 10am. River City, 23 Charoenkrung Soi 24, 02237-0077. Free.

08

Fatboy Slim is heading back to Bangkok this Songkran

NIPPON ACOUSTIC WITH TENDOUJI The Japanese rock band perform in acoustic mode, with support from Zweed n’ Roll and Temp. Feb 27, 7:30pm.

The Company Bangkok, 23/F, GMM Grammy Place, 50 Sukhumvit 21 Rd. (Asoke), 02-116-7924. B200.

SPAGUETTE ORGHASMMOND BAND AT 12X12 The Belgian band perform Italo-disco love songs, mixed with pseudo-techno beats with support from local DJs. Feb 28, 9pm. 12X12, 810/22 Thararom 2 Thonglor, 094260-4713. B200.

MAGIC DISCO BUNS Chiang Mai’s notorious funk ‘n roll band Dead As Disco performs with Magic Arrow and Austin Hughes. Mar 3, 8pm. De Commune, 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-4197380. Free.

SWEET GIG

Electronic music producer and DJ Fatboy Slim will bring big-beat hits like “Praise You” and “Weapon of Choice” as headliner during day one of the three-day Songkran Music Festival at Live Park Rama 9 this April 13-15. Joining him on the line-up are Dutch DJ/producer Tiesto and American electronic house DJ Steve Aoki, alongside German house producer Robin Schulz, electronic/dance duo Cat Dealers and 22-year-old Australian DJ Throttle. Single-day festival tickets are available at www.s2ofestival.com/ticket for B2,000. Live Park Rama 9, Bang Kapi, 066-030-6608.

PLINI LIVE IN BANGKOK 2019 The Australian instrumental guitarist performs live, with a follow-up masterclass. Mar 4, 8pm. De Commune, 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-4197380. B1,200 or B1,800 including the masterclass.

IN THE PINK

09 Chill by the lake at this new indie rock

music festival

Calling all Aussie surf-punk fans: live music promoter Wildest Youth has just announced the debut Pink Cloud Festival to take place on May 25 at Thai Wake Park. Headlining the festival are Australian punk bands Dune Rats and Hockey Dad, plus America’s Turnover.

They’ll be joined by local talents Srirajah Rockers and Death of Heather, with more acts TBA. The lineup is not the only thing the festival has going for it. Thai Wake Park is also a great location for outdoor music festivals, offering activities like wakeboarding to keep you entertained and plenty of outdoor space to explore. Pre-sale tickets are B2,300 available at Eventpop. Thai Wake Park, 18/4 Soi Sudsawas, Lieab Klong 6 Rd., 086-644-2545.

LUCKY TAPES & TENDRE LIVE IN BANGKOK The Japanese soul-pop bands perform live with support from Thai indie act Pla Nin Tem Ban. Mar 10, 7pm. RCA Live Arena, 94, 23/92-94 RCA Rd., 098-974- 6974.

B1,100 in advance at Ticketmelon or B1,400 at door.

ART

CREATIVE SPACE

10 Bangkok’s newest art hub takes over a 19thcentury landmark Nestled in the Old Town, Bangkok 1899 brings together art, design and urbanism in a restored heritage home designed by Italian architect Mario Tamagno and once occupied by “Thailand’s father of modern education,” Chaophraya Thammasakmontri. The driving force behind it, US-based organisation Creative Migration, aims to use the gorgeous space for art residencies and public events. In their own words, they will “encourage individuals to pursue the lost art of leisure, engage in spontaneous discussions and open up avenues of creativity.” 134 Nakhon Sawan Rd. bangkok1899.org

BK Pick NUDITY AND PHOTOGRAPHY Presented by Thailand’s Don’t Tell Me How To Dress movement, this seminar examines the art of nude photography with fashion and travel photographer Nat Prakobsantisuk. Feb 23, 4-5:30pm. Lumpini Park, Rama 4 Rd. Free.

DIN CLAY TON EXHIBITION Ratchaburi ceramist Wasinburee Supanichvoraparch and his German counterpart Stefanie Hering team up to display their respective pottery making-techniques.

Mar 7-30, 10am-9pm. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), 939 Rama I Rd., 02214-6630. Free.

FILM

DOC CLUB + RCB : SCREEN ON THE SKY NO. 2 Enjoy an evening of documentary screenings of Ada for Mayor and Itzhak on River City’s rooftop. Feb 23, 7-11pm. River City, 3 Charoenkrung Soi 24. B250, B200 advance.

WORKSHOPS & FAIRS

DIY CONDIMENTS WORKSHOP Learn how to make healthy sauces and spreads from scratch with certified nutritionist and health coach, Cecilia Yu, founder of Vitamin L. Feb 23, 10am-12:30pm.

The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 089-152-2677. B2,000.

BK Pick 50TH THAI TIEW THAI The massive domestic travel fair gathers major discounts on flights and hotels all over the country. Feb 28-Mar 3, 10am-9pm. Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, 60 Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-229-3000. Free.

SOAP MAKING BY RECYCLING COOKING OIL Go green by turning leftover cooking oil into nice smelling soap. Mar 2, 10:30am-1pm.

The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 089-152-2677. B500.

COOL OFF

AS WE HEAD INTO SUMMER, POOL PARTIES ARE GOING OFF Westin Pool Party

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BLAST POOL SERIES #0046 - SPRING BREAK 2019 Spanish DJs Alex Ferrer, Road to Mana and Adiero with Nukier spin techno by the pool all afternoon. Mar 9, 2-9pm.

DoubleTree by Hilton, 18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-6496666. B400 including 1 drink, B800 including 1-hour free flow booze.

WESTIN POOL PARTY MARCH EDITION Spend the afternoon partying or chilling by the pool before hitting the club at Levels for an after party.

Mar 9, 1-9pm. The Westin Grande, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-207-8000. B400 including free-flow booze from 1-2pm.

LOVELY BLOSSOMS Phookpan Chairat and Supmanee Chaisansuk showcase their paintings of flowers. Feb 23-Mar 24, 5pm. Sathorn 11 Art Space, 404 Sathorn Soi 11, 02-004-1199. Free.

BANGKOK BIGGEST BAR OF SOAP Participate in this group activity creating 100kg worth of soap using waste cooking oil. Mar 9, 2-5pm. K-Village, Rama 4 Rd., 02-258-9919.

Free.

TALK ABOUT DOG Chanchai Siriwithayacharoen from Pagoda Art Club and

2/14/19 7:39 PM

travel | hoi an

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2019

14

The Real Hoi An W

Soak up the charms of central Vietnam’s historic port town.

By Kankanok Wichiantanon

hile Hoi An’s heritage zone can feel like a zoo, beyond the tourist crowds of its UNESCO heart lies a riverside city that’s as vivid, eclectic and fun as it is ancient. Charming terrace shop-houses, dappled sunlight and shrubbery-laden roundabouts make this former 15th-century wtrading port the perfect town in which to slow down and lay low. Take our advice, beat the tourists, and uncover the best of this central Vietnam gem.

Must-sees

Thu Bon riverfront

Street-side food stalls

Thu Bon riverfront

Hoi An’s streets are packed with old merchant houses blending architectural influences from China, Japan and France. For a slice of the town’s history, visit Duc An House, an old Chinese medicine shop which has been passed down through the same family since the early 17th century. The walls are lined with pictures of former resident Mr. Cao Lanh, a senior Vietnamese politician of the communist government, giving a glimpse of life in Hoi An in the early twentieth century. Next, go to the Hoi An Museum of History and Culture located behind the Chua Ong Temple, where you can track the town’s history from the Champa era (seventh-15th centuries) to Da Viet (15-19th centuries) through artefacts and old photographs. If you’re short on time, take a quick tour instead at the charming Museum of Sa Huynh Culture—despite being small, it’s packed with artefacts and stories.

Other must-see tourist attractions include Fujian Assembly Hall, an ornate World Cultural Heritage site built in 1690 as a meeting place for Chinese residents from Fujian, or The Japanese Bridge, which has straddled the historic Chinese and Japanese sides of the town since the late 16th century. If you’re there between September and March, you can even catch some surf at the beautiful An-Bang beach just 10-minutes’ drive away from Hoi An town—it’s cleaner and far less crowded than many of those found in Da Nang, and a great place to laze away an afternoon with its many chic beachfront cafes and restaurants.

Essential Eats

Street-side food stalls

Thu Bon riverfront

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No holiday in Vietnam is complete without a heavy dose of food and it’s hard not to be drawn in by the mouthwatering scents wafting from the many street-side food stalls lining the Thu Bon riverfront. Hoi An’s famous cao lau are a mix of noodles, sliced pork and greens. Thanks to its reliance on special water from a nearby ancient spring, the local dish can’t be replicated anywhere else and, while it’s available at just about any restaurant in town, two of the best are Restaurant 339 (Tra Que St.) and a no-name street vendor on Nguyen Hue St. Instead of braving the queues at Anthony Bourdain’s favorite, Banh Mi Phuong, bahn mi lovers can hit up Madam Khanh (AKA “The Banh Mi Queen”), whose overloaded sandwiches come with killer sauce dripping down the sides. Another place well worth a visit is the tiny Ba Buoi, a localsjammed shop-house that’s been serving comforting plates of com ga (chicken and rice)

since the 1950s. For something more modern, upscale and far from the bustling town center, Little Faifo serves fusion takes on Vietnamese classics, offering classy service, yet reasonable prices.

Shop like a Local If you’re looking to forgo the countless touristy shops and restaurants lining the small streets of Hoi An in favor of a more local experience, then head over to the Central Market. Here, you’ll find everything from fresh fruit and food stalls (fish lovers can enjoy a great selection of freshly caught seafood—head there early in the morning to get first pick) to Vietnamese silk and tailor shops—which are far cheaper than the hordes of tailors who’ll try to sweet-talk you as you wander the town. For some fine handmade Vietnamese textiles, Hoi An Silk Village showcases a large collection of silks weaved in-house on old-school wooden looms. You can also take a free silk tour to learn about the process, from harvesting the cocoons, to spinning and weaving.

Essentials Where to Stay Hoi An’s charms are quaint but limited, meaning many visitors instead base themselves in nearby Danang at a beachside resort. One of the newest is the Sheraton Grand Danang Resort (goo.gl/kfqhQo), just 20 minutes’ drive from Hoi An town. Its 258 rooms and suites (from B7,649/night) overlook the vast peninsula of Son Tra and come with a private stretch of beach.

Once you’re done exploring sleepy Hoi An, glitzy downtown Danang is within equal reach, while just 10 minutes’ drive will get you to the stunning Marble Mountains. Prefer to stay in Hoi An? There’s a colonial-luxe Anantara for roughly B9,000/night, as well as many affordable guesthouse options.

Getting There VietJet (vietjetair.com) just relaunched its direct daily flights between Bangkok and Da Nang (from B5,782 return), which is around 40 minutes’ drive from Hoi An town center. AirAsia and Bangkok Airways also fly the route.

Currency 100 VND = 0.13 THB

Sheraton Grand Danang Resort

2/14/19 7:41 PM

travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2019

15

PHUKET

12 Make a caffeine stop

11

at Phuket Town’s moody roastery

Phuket’s latest Japanese spot promises delicious ramen

12

13

NAKHON PATHOM

KORAT

13 This hip new eatery

14 Khao Yai’s new

Sukkindai (www.fb.com/sukkindai2018) is a farm-slash-restaurant offering wholesome meals made from fresh produce grown in their backyard. Inside, the light-washed space sees ferns clinging to high ceilings above a modern-rustic mix of naked concrete and wood furnishings. Towards the back, you’ll see a big greenhouse sheltering beds of organic salad leaves, which are also available to take home.

The wide menu charts Thai classics like chicken massaman (B119) to western fusion plates such as spicy northern sausage spaghetti (B169).

For something sweet, try the mulberry cheese pie (B115) or a healthy fruit smoothie (B99).

Lying amid vast green fields around 30 minutes’ drive from Pak Chong, Isaan-Isan Boutique Resort (www.fb.com/isaanandacura) will transport you to Thailand’s northeast with its elegant blond woods, bamboo furnishings and colorful patterned cushions, contrasting with chic rough concrete walls. Each of the 69 rooms and suites comes with an outdoor balcony, rain shower and 40-inch flat-screen TV, with rates starting at B2,227 for the Deluxe room (35 sq meters). Hit up the resort’s restaurant for authentic somtam and classic Isaan plates, or head to the wellness center for pampering massage and beauty packages.

comes with its own organic farm

PHUKET

Yet another Japanese opening on Phuket, Sedo Izikura (goo.gl/WKwGwQ) looks more like a tattoo parlor than a restaurant with its dark woods and white tiled walls. The open-kitchen doles out a concise menu of ramen and Japanese bar bites. Order the paitan ramen (B180) for fat chunks of braised pork, soft-boiled egg and tender pork belly in a mellow broth that’s the result of several hours’ simmering. Also of note are the organic noodles, made in-house daily, that hit the sweet spot between soft and chewy. Another house signature comes in the form of grilled octopus in wasabi sauce (B120), while the solitary dessert of panna cotta is served inside a whole passion fruit (B50). Wash your meal down with a solid range of Japanese beer, sake and cocktails.

Campus Coffee Roaster (goo.gl/FCTdwH) is no new kid on the block, though its latest digs are hipper and more rustic. Inside the Romanee Classic guesthouse, the casual space is fitted out with simple wooden tables and potted plants. The high ceilings and large street-facing windows create a light, airy space, while the polished concrete floor and distressed walls exposing the brickwork beneath lend a moodily rustic vibe. The menu keeps it fairly simple, with baked goods like chocolate fudge cake (B55) and banana bread (B45), alongside coffee that uses beans sourced throughout Thailand, roasted in-house. Get the cafe’s signature Jelly Coffee (B75) that sees coffee jelly topped with frosty milkshake, or the basic hot drip (B90).

boutique resort channels the charms of Isaan

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AND MORE!

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2/14/19 7:46 PM

food & drink | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2019

16

HOT OFF THE PASS

Notes from the Bangkok food scene

15

This new mall is bringing awesome food names to Soi 11

WINE, GLORIOUS WINE

EAT IT UP

Sukhumvit Soi 11 is moving on up. The latest venture bringing color to the notorious party strip is Eleven, a food and lifestyle complex that packs in some of the city’s coolest names. The partially open-air mall is still in the early stages of opening, but already you can find Soho Pizza, from the team behind Above Eleven and Havana Social, which doles out large New York-style pies by the slice. It’s joined by Cantina, a sister pizzeria with a more traditional Italian focus. Also already open are second branches for Fowlmouth, Thonglor’s Nashville hot chicken favorite, and Hola, a Spanish tapas restaurant also on Thonglor. Hong Kong-hailing food franchise Cali-Mex Bar & Grill has opened its third Bangkok branch here, where it’s joined upstairs by sister speakeasy Los Atico (see page 19). New names to look out for include the already-open Artisans Burger, soon to be followed by Lebanese House and Burapa by Sri Trat, most likely by early March. Familiar names After You, Carl’s Jr and Saras Indian are also set to enter the scene. All too much to digest? There’s also a branch of Boots and a new spa, Deluxe Thai Spa. Eleven sits around a 10-minute walk from BTS Nana, right across from Levels nightclub. To match the clubbing surrounds, you can expect some late opening hours—Cali-Mex stays in service till 2:30am daily, while Soho Pizza does the late shift till 3am on Fri and Sat. 26/3 Sukhumvit Soi 11. BTS Nana

ALL I DO IS WIN

TOP THAT

FORGET BONCHON

16 Bangkokian wins Campari’s Bartender Competition Asia

17 Get ready for incredible deals at Bangkok’s best

18 Petchaburi beer bar swaps tacos for “KFC”

Loved BK Restaurant Week? This year, we’re going one step further. From Mar 21-Apr 7, Top Tables Champions will bring together 20 restaurants that are literally Bangkok’s Top Tables for incredible deals and unmissable special experiences. Dinners will start from just B1,500++ per person at restaurants where other times of the year you could be waiting months to book—think names like L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Sorn, 80/20, Indus, Jua and many more.

General booking opens this Mar 4 (though if you sign up for our BK Privileges newsletter or use a Citibank credit card you can book from Feb 27). For more, see bktoptables.com/champions.

Changwon Express, the cozy yellow-painted craft beer bar tucked next to MRT Petchaburi, has ditched its former Korean-Mexican fusion menu in favor of “KFC”—or Korean fried chicken. The bar’s Korean owner Ted Ahn wants to bring a taste of “real” traditional Korean fried chicken to Bangkok, the kind that he eats back at home: crisp, juicy, spicy.

Choose between half (B220) or full chicken (B400), thinly battered and then slathered in house-made gochujang (red chili paste made with chili powder, glutinous rice, fermented soybean powder and barley malt powder), and served with fries and garlic mayo. 37 Asoke Din Daeng Rd., 092-251-8661

Supawit “Palm” Muttarattana, group bar manager at Foodie Collection—the group behind names like Vesper (where Palm can usually be found), Via Maris, La Dotta and also now 80/20—just won the inaugural Campari Bartender Competition Asia. After being selected as Thailand’s representative back in November, Palm was flown to the finals in Milan on Jan 23, where he whipped up his negroni-inspired cocktail using Campari (of course), gin, sweet vermouth and game-changing clarified espresso. Head to Vesper, where you can try the winning concoction for yourself for B400.

For your opportunity to spend four hours tasting over 300 wine labels from over 30 wineries around the world, head to Bangkok Wine Expo 2019 on Feb 22 at the Shangri-La. Tickets are B1,500, and include some light bites to soak it all up.

GIRLS ON TOP In honor of International Women’s Day on Mar 8, Gastronauts Asia and Banyan Tree are teaming up to host the second edition of Women In Gastronomy. The event will showcase female Michelin-trained and celebrity chefs, with a new feature for 2019: Women in Wine.

YOU’RE LATE If you missed the chance to tumble down the rabbit hole into Bangkok Trading Post’s Alice in Wonderland-themed Valentine’s tea party, don’t despair. You can still sample the spread of British treats each weekend through Mar 3, from B950 per person.

YOU SAID WHAT?

The news in online foodie posts

“Anyone can make “buttery” mash....

Next!!” - FB USER TERRY HOLDEN ON ROBUCHON’S NEW MENUS

“Modern British Cuisine is basically every other cuisine in Europe just served in the UK.” - FB USER VITALI SKLIFUS ON NEW MODERN BRITISH RESTAURANT OLTA

New_F&BNews-BK#757-22FEB2019.indd 16

“Are you sure about that? You lived in the UK for long?...Know your scotch eggs to suet pastry?

Pork Pies to Lorne sausages?

Whitebait to elvers? Samphire to langoustines? Or are you just another internet know it all.” FB USER TEKAYU HARRINGTON DEFENDS OLTA

2/14/19 7:48 PM

dining reviews

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2019

17

Al-Qasim

Al-Qasim HH Pakistani. 8/17-18 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1, 02-0579100. Open 24 hours. B-BB

Pakistani food in Bangkok gets nowhere near the kudos that Indian food does. While the two cuisines share many characteristics, Pakistani is typified by heavier emphasis on meats, milder spices and softer, aromatic dishes that also pull influence from Persian, Afghan and central Asian cooking. Nestled down busy Soi Nana, Al-Qasim’s facade of laminated food photos fits right in with its many Arabic and Lebanese neighbors, but this relative newcomer (formerly a far-flung Rama 2 restaurant, they opened here in late 2017) sets itself apart with an interior of marble-top tables, black leather chairs and whitewashed walls lined with flower bouquets and oldfashioned lamps. It’s sleek, if a little soulless.

The menu boasting of “Authentic Pakistani, Indian, Arabic, Japanese & Thai Cuisine” may be initial cause for concern (can you really do that much authentically?), but on closer inspection the focus is very much on Indian classics and

Sonny’s HHH French. Charoenkrung Soi 47, 086-516-2965.

Open Wed-Fri 6-9pm; Sat-Sun 11am-2pm, 6-9pm. BBB

Sonny’s disregards a lot of restaurant conventions, and that makes it charming. The two owners hardly market the place aside from sporadic Facebook posts. It’s hidden in a derelict alley on Charoenkrung that you’ll likely walk past more than once. The overhead sign from the previous business still hangs over the large front glass pane. The only signage for Sonny’s is a barely readable print on the glass, but you’ll know it when you see it. It’s about as no-nonsense as a French restaurant can get. The open kitchen sits smack-dab in the middle of a snug 14-seat dining area. Simple wooden tables with red-checkered tablecloths, net curtains, soft ’50s-60s-era tunes and some random artwork on the walls (including a picture of American cartoon character Snoopy lying on top of his dog house with “Fuck It” written underneath) make Sonny’s feel halfhome, half bistro. A handwritten chalkboard menu rests against a far corner spelling out the week’s options—usually three starters, mains and desserts with a heavy focus on local ingredients. You won’t see any high-wire

less-common Pakistani specialities (phew!).

The latter provides pleasant surprises like the chicken sajji (chicken stuffed with rice, rubbed in spices and roasted for hours, B280) whose flavorful meat tastes thoroughly marinated and comes atop billowy biryani rice. Just as good is the fish biryani (B280) whose well-spiced fillets are fluffy soft but carry just the right bite. The dish is satisfying on its own, but even better when doused in curry like the mutton qeema (green peas with minced mutton curry, B230), which packs a nice spicy kick. Balanced flavors are also on display in the beef daga kebab (spiced minced meat, B200), though the dry and crumbly texture is not a point in its favor.

Al-Qasim’s hodge-podge menu also covers a selection of Lebanese staples, as well as club sandwiches, fish and chips, and other outof-place western offerings. However, on the basis of the watery hummus topped with oildrenched chicken shawarma, soggy falafel or dry naan bread, we’d stick to the solid Pakistani fare. Best also to skip the dessert—a fusion take on a flaky paratha drizzled in chocolate sauce (overpriced at B120) is no way to finish a meal that all in all charts some interesting, uncommon flavors.

French presentation here, but Sonny’s relaxing cooking style nails the flavors and shows a delicate hand. His dishes don’t dilly-dally with excessive ingredients, either. Take the marinated squid (B280). It’s tender, tangy and has a grand total of five well-balanced components, each distinct and meaningful. Portions, too, hit the casual dining sweet spot. The sauteed duck liver (covered in a savory onion gravy, B260) comes piled high on crispy oven-toasted bread—enough to comfortably share or hoard for yourself. The menu will have changed by the time you read this, but a risotto of some kind is a regular staple. On our last visit, it was king prawns over a bed of immaculately cooked rice, rich broth and some spicy chorizo slices doused in a tomato-based sauce (B520). It’s the antithesis of daring or experimental, but very much good, honest cooking. You can count the flavors as you eat. Wines are as simple and straightforward as the food, this time found on another chalkboard further at the back. There are about seven options, with Austrian reds and French whites from B350/glass and Beer Lao (B150/bottle), but this can also change at any time. Sonny’s clearly doesn’t try to be anything other than Sonny’s. With all the noise in Bangkok’s dining scene and the silly marketing that can bring, we’re happy to find a restaurant that manages to ignore most of it.

Ratings H Forget it HH Only if you’re in the neighborhood HHH A pleasant dining experience HHHH Not to be missed HHHHH Flawless

B BB BBB BBBB

BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

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Price guide Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Symbols

Reservations recommended

Parking

Dress requirements Live music

H F E G

A Taste of Home in Bangkok The new Patissez cafe is Bangkok’s answer to all kinds of comfort food dreams What started as a humble, family-owned business in Canberra Australia has turned into something so much bigger. The famed Patissez cafe is now in Bangkok! Specializing in shakes, all kinds of comfort food, and waffles that come in different flavors and are freshly made using syrup that they mix together from scratch, eating at Patissez feels like spending evenings with friends around the dinner table—exactly as it should. Try their latest standout dishes, such as the smashed avocado on toasted sourdough with burrata cheese, or the delicious French toast, which is homemade and topped with fresh mango and saffron mango sauce.

3/F, CentralWorld (in front of Zen), 095-869-7396, 089-833-3053.

Open daily 10am-10pm.

BTS Chidlom

2/14/19 7:52 PM

food & drink | open doors

tk Sweet Poppy is an urban oasis made for weekends The buzz: Amid Nonthaburi’s international schools and gated communities, Sweet Poppy is the answer to well-heeled parents’ dreams: an urban day resort where mom and dad can eat bright and fresh Aussie brunch fare while kids run around in manicured gardens complete with jungle gym and play houses.

pork chop in hoisin and ginger sauce (B590) are supplied by artisan Bangkok butchers like Sloanes and the Accidental Butcher. End the meal on a sweet note with the decadent soft chocolate mousse (B320) served with salted caramel, honeycomb, orange and basil. There’s an entirely separate menu just for the little ones, too.

The decor: This feels like a tranquil hotel resort minus the accommodation. Head past the juice bar’s neon pink “Hello Gorgeous” sign towards a sprawl of tables and lounge sofas, perfectly sheltered by high hut-like roofs.

The space is surrounded by lush, tropical gardens where kids can run amok. The floral indoor dining area overlooks all the greenery through its large open windows.

The drinks: The juice bar takes center stage, pumping out healthy concoctions like the Gold Rush (B170) with pineapple, orange, cucumber and ginger, or the signature Hello Gorgeous smoothie (B250)—a creamy blend of spinach, alfalfa sprouts, grapes, kiwi and almond milk. There are also cocktails on offer like the refreshing Aperol Spritz (B280) or the Blondie (B290), with vodka, elderflower, lime and ginger beer.

The food: Creamy avocado toast (B310), indulgent ricotta hotcakes (B320) and charred cauliflower (B320) served with caramelized onions, sunflower seeds, pomegranate and dill yogurt will speak to anyone who’s experienced Melbourne’s vibrant cafe culture. Salads like the refreshing Vietnamese slaw (B390) can be enlivened with a sprinkle of flax seeds, chia or goji berries for an extra B30. Meats used in dishes like the hearty organic grilled

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Why we’d go back: Because of a football match against ISB? Because of that friend who lives in Nichada? Some of us are parents too (shock horror!), and we know that trips to the suburbs have suddenly been made a lot more inviting thanks to this kid-friendly little oasis. Screw you, mid-life crisis. Megan Leon 90/10 Samakee Rd., 020-055206.

Open Mon-Wed 7am-6pm; Thu-Sun 7am-10:30pm

2/13/19 8:42 PM

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Seoul Light

NEW AND NOTED

tk Enjoy Korean BBQ on the subway at this gimmicky restaurant Seoul Light (201/1 Narathiwat Rajanagarindra Rd., 089-488-4246) doesn’t play to the conventional beige walls and stiff table set-up of your average Korean restaurant.

Instead, the spacious interior is filled with hanging yellow subway-style grab handles and walls crawling with subway maps. Here, the food revolves around low-smoke, on-table barbecue grills, supported by comforting Korean hot plates, traditional soondubu (tofu soup, B250) and seafood pajeon (Korean pancake, B350). To grill, opt for the ultra-soft marinated ribs (B690) and tenderloin (B790) with a dash of spicy house-made samjang.

tk Soi 11’s new Mexitk Nanglinchee’s cozy can speakeasy claims craft beer bar levels Bangkok’s largest up tequila selection Easily spotted for its bright blue walls Another opening from Hong Kong, Los Atico (3/F, Cali-Mex, Eleven, 26/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-015-8100) is a sophisticated Mexican speakeasy that sits atop the new Cali-Mex on Soi 11. Amid moody lighting, urban art, Dia de los Muertos-themed decor and plush red velvet seating, the bar doles out five types of Margarita, including the lavender-infused Tequila Makes My Clothes Come Off (B450), which pays tribute to the signature neon sign on the wall. For something stronger, work your way through their dizzying list of 50 premium mezcals and tequilas before soaking it up with authentic Mexican street-style tacos (B150) and ceviche (B390).

and retro floor tiles, Casa Blue (TTN Avenue, 88 Nanglinchee Rd., 099449-2233) serves a rotating roster of craft beers from both international big names and local favorites. This newly relocated drinking den (formerly Blue Bar, a tiny, three-year-old Nanglinchee institution) rotates its taps weekly, offering up the likes of Fresh Squeezed IPA by Deschutes at B259/400ml (or B219 during happy hours from 5-8:30pm) and Hacklberg German Weizen at B249/half-liter.

Comfort food comes in the form of a dry-aged Angus burger infused with truffle oil (B239), or Kurobuta pork chop (B289).

TABLE TALK

All Six to Twelve Urbana Hotel, 55 Lang Suan Rd., 02-250-6799. Open daily 6am-midnight This affordable food outlet offers an international breakfast buffet in the morning, easy meals for lunch and a long list of drinks ready to take the edge off after a hard day at work in its New York City-inspired loft space. There is a wide choice of international comfort foods with a bit of Thai fusion. Go for the laab burger (fried spicy minced pork with Thai herbs) served with two small patties of fried laab, and chicken steak (steamed and fried chicken with Chinese herbs served with blueberry gravy sauce and mixed salad) which is extremely tender and fragrant with the right amount of saltiness.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip Today – 31 Dec 19

18 N cozy leve

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2/13/19 8:42 PM

TABLE TALK

Ginza Sushi Ichi LG/F Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-0014.

Open Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm, 6-11pm. BTS Ploen Chit One Michelin-starred Ginza Sushi Ichi is not the first restaurant in Bangkok to claim it flies its fish straight from Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market, but it is the first to say that, no matter what day you dine, the fish will have been at the market less than 24 hours before service. The chefs—trained by Masakazu Ishibashi, the head chef of the also Michelin-starred mother branch— alter their omakase selections according to the quality of the day’s catch. One specialty includes the live Hokkaido taraba crab which is boiled, cleaned and then portioned according to the number of diners in the party

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount when spending THB 10,000 or more / sales slip for lunch or get 10% discount when spending THB 17,000 or more /sales slip for dinner Today – 31 Dec 19

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Olta

Bangkok Trading Post

NEW AND NOTED

tk Chef of Phuket’s Bamphot Kitchen moves to Bangkok

tk Gorge on Thai dessert at the Old Town’s Gingerbread House

tk Phrom Phong’s brunch favorite expands

After recently gaining Michelin Guide recognition, Bampot Kitchen saw its head chef Jamie Wakeford depart his Phuket position to open Olta (101/11 Suan Phlu, 092-130-3114), a modern British restaurant located on busy Suan Phlu. Before landing at Bampot, the Scottish chef cut his teeth at Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck and Gordon Ramsey’s Maze in the UK. At his new venture, expect plates like blue crab rarebit tart (B350) and Thai wagyu prime rib with watercress and bearnaise (B2,750, serves two).

To drink, try a Faithful Scotsman (Monkey Shoulder whiskey, lemon, pineapple and cumin, B350).

Steps away from the Giant Swing, the Old Town’s once crumbling teakwood Gingerbread House (47 Phra Athit Rd., 097-229-7021) has recently been lovingly renovated as a cafe, packed with a mish-mash of cute vintage and antique furniture.

The two-story Rama 6-era property won its name for the exquisite fretwork and shutters that surround it.

Onto the menu, an iced mint macchiato (B95) lends a refreshing aside to sinful cakes and Thai desserts like lotus leaf ice cream with coconut milk (B120). Can’t decide? Opt for the Lotus Set (B599) to sample eight Thai desserts with two scoops of ice cream and a pot of hot tea.

We’ve claimed for some time now that Nanglinchee is up there with the hottest spots in town, and the continual wave of new openings has now brought Phrom Phong’s brunch darling, Bangkok Trading Post (Market Place Nanglinchee, 27, 27/1 Nang Linchee Rd., 02-287-4165). The airy venue echoes its sister branch— cool gray marble, colonial-style tiles, wooden dividing screens—while the all-day dining menu touts classics like eggs Benedict (B280), wagyu burgers (B490) and pizzas (from B190). Drinks range from coffee (from B90) to wine by the glass (from B280 for a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc) and cocktails (from B250).

2/13/19 8:42 PM

food & drink | taste test

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JANUARY 25, 2019

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Who makes Bangkok’s best...carnitas tacos*?

Gone are the days when Bangkok’s taco options were few and far between—with Mexican and Tex-Mex eateries popping up everywhere, we’re now spoiled for choice. And what’s not to love about carnitas tacos? Soft tortilla wrapped around piles of salty, slightly crisp slow-cooked pork with condiments expertly balanced in acidity and freshness.

We’ve tasted some of Bangkok’s best lunchtime offerings and here’s who makes it best.

By BK Staff

*All tacos were ordered for delivery between 12-1pm

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Taco Bell Beneath the soft yet slightly chewy tortilla lies a mushy mix of wet, creamy meat filling and hardly recognizable chopped lettuce with no crunch. The whole thing comes oozing with gooey melted cheese—not exactly authentic, but there’s no denying that it keeps us going back for more.

Verdict: Guilty pleasure.

Price: B65 G/F, MercuryVille, 540 Phloen Chit Rd.

Cali-Mex

Tasting more akin to American barbecue pulled-pork, this filling might be more at home in a bun. The fusion theme continues with a heavy sprinkling of cheese and an out of place, yet tasty Thousand Island-like dressing oozing from its soft, thin tortilla.

Verdict: An international affair.

Price: B299/three pieces 3 branches, try G/F, Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-010-3135.

Charley Brown’s

The breakable, rather flaky tortilla precariYuck! ously holds a soggy pork filling that’s laced with an overpowering and somewhat strange combination of spices—we’re guessing cloves, nutmeg, or both. Whatever it is, it reminds us of biting into a slice of pumpkin pie. Yikes.

Verdict: Pumpkin, why?

Price: B120

Verdict: Forget the tortilla and just eat the filling.

Price: B260/three pieces 3 branches, try 888/25-26 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-650-9581.

Tacos & Salsa

Not bad, just very boring. Inside a decent, soft-yet-chewy tortilla sits a dry meat filling that feels like it’s missing something (hint: the flavor!), along with a mix of shredded lettuce and cucumber (cucumber?!) tossed in mayonnaise, like a coleslaw. It tastes like you’re eating a chicken salad.

Verdict: You don’t make friends with salad.

Price: B220/three pieces 2 branches, try 21/3 Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-663-6366.

Barrio Bonito

The perfect balance of fat and salt in the BK Pick! meat filling is made even more perfect by the soft and aromatic shell. Though the pork isn’t crispy like carnitas should be, it’s still flavorful and juicy, served in traditional Mexican style with chopped onions and coriander—it’s even better doused in salsa for an extra hit of flavor.

Verdict: Authentically enjoyable.

Price: B120 The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 092-331-5203.

G/F, iCheck Inn Hotel, 19/9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-651-2215.

La Monita

A proper Mexican taco that’s super-flavorful—no overpowering spices in the filling, nicely shredded carnitas topped with chopped coriander and onions. If there’s one quibble we have with this taco, it’s the slightlydry, somewhat leathery tortilla.

Runner up!

2/13/19 8:42 PM

drink | local knowledge

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ON THE BAR

008 Bar

What is Sato?

Move over yadong, there’s a new Thai spirit in town.

By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

B

angkok’s bar scene has seen a shift towards local spirits lately. Alongside the resurgence for Thai herbal whiskey—yadong—there’s been a wave of new Thai-brewed concoctions hitting the market like Lanna, a rice spirit made by a collective of top Bangkok bartenders, and Barrelhouse 53, a vodka produced by Bamboo Bar. But there’s now a lighter booze fermenting under the counters of Bangkok’s bars, and you’ll be pleased to hear it tastes (and smells) a whole gentler than its herbal counterpart.

Sato has been a part of Thai culture for centuries, made by fermenting glutinous rice with “look pang,” a combination of yeast and fungus. The fermentation process takes around 20-35 days—any longer and it risks turning sour. It contains no more than 15-percent alcohol but, if distilled, it will turn into lao khao (Thai rice whiskey) with an alcohol content of up to 55 percent.

“Sato is part of the Thai fermentation preservation culture that has existed for so long, but it’s getting lost more and more these days due to laws and regulations,” says Napol “Joe” Jantraget, head chef and co-owner of 80/20 restaurant.

Indeed, local laws are strict when it comes to producing the spirit. The excise tax law, section 191, states that if you own sato for the purpose of selling it, you can be fined up to B50,000, while section 192 rules that if you simply own it without the intention to sell, you may face a fine of up to B10,000.

Despite this, chef Joe serves his home-fermented sato as a complimentary drink paired

with the pork dish on 80/20’s tasting menu.

Arriving in elegant stemware, it’s far cry from sato’s backcountry origins.

With Japanese rice wine, sake, in full-flow at Bangkok’s ubiquitous Japanese izakayas, the city’s also starting to get more exposure to Korean rice spirits like soju, thanks in particular to the opening of dedicated Korean bars like Sulbkk and Sot Soju Bar. However, sato remans little-known among younger generations.

Seeking to change this, Tep Bar made the bold decision to sell it in bottles at Wonderfruit festival back in December.

“Around 50 years ago, there used to be people producing bottled sato and selling it along Vibhavadi-Rangsit Road, though sato has a very short shelf life so maybe that was why it disappeared. With its refreshing, easy-drinking taste and not-so-high alcohol percentage, we think it’s ready to make a comeback in city life, especially since you can just pour it over crushed ice and enjoy,” says a team member at Tep Bar who asked to remain anonymous.

There are more reasons to support sato than just the taste, argues Ted Ahn, owner of Changwon Express and Changwon Express at Flow House. “Even if a microbrewery gets permitted in Thailand, most of the ingredients used to make beer will still need to be imported, whereas sato ingredients all grow in Thailand without too much effort, so it could help local farmers.”

According to Ted, who is Korean and has been secretly making sato at home with Thai khao suay (rice) and Korean yeast, “The Korean

version of sato [makgeolli] made a comeback in the early 2000s; now there are many craft makgeolli breweries and they are exporting to other countries. A few fine-dining restaurants in Korea now pair their dishes with makgeolli.

When I look at what happened with makgeolli, sato definitely has a chance to make a comeback in Thailand.”

He continues, “The Korean government supports the makgeolli industry by reducing taxes and allowing online sales to boost rice consumption in the country. It is a proven fact that sato can help Thai society economically.”

Next time you visit Changwon Express, why not see if he’ll let you try some.

Nowadays, sato is not widely available, though you will find the Siamsato brand retailing at Tesco for B37 per 640ml bottle. It’s also sold online via www.thaitambon.com, a website that specifically sells products made by locals under the One Tambon One Product program founded by Thaksin Shinawatra in 2001.

“I think people are already secretly making it at home. I don’t see any cons of bringing it back, except that the government can’t claim tax,” concludes chef Joe of 80/20.

Though it’s unlikely that Thai sato is en route to large-scale production anytime soon, it seems plenty of bartenders have it stashed away beneath the bar, so be sure to keep your ear to the ground.

The buzz: After winning Diageo’s Southeast Asia World Class cocktail competition in 2016, Pailin “Milk” Sajjanit took up residence at our Silom favorite, Vesper, followed by a stint at Zuma.

She has now opened her own bar in Thonglor—and it doesn’t disappoint.

The decor: Interiors come courtesy of the team behind Q&A and Thaipioka.

The bar is somewhat hidden but if you’ve been to either of those bars, you should have a pretty good idea of what to look out for when seeking the entrance. Tucked away on the 11th floor of the new Akyra hotel, inside, the place gives out a soft yet masculine vibe, with dark brown woods tying everything together. The bar spreads across almost one whole side of the room, with a large table tucked at the end where you can enjoy a private corner.

The drinks: Milk loves spirit-forward cocktails, and she’s good at making them, though before you get scared, there are some easier drinking options on the menu, too. We love the summery Pyroblast (B420)—a mix of Plantation pineapple rum, clarified pineapple, coconut water and “pyro syrup”—a mix of cinnamon and other spices that Milk discovered when she was reading Matthew Rowley’s book Lost Recipes of Prohibition. Newbies to spirit-forward cocktails may want to start off with a 1920s (Whitley dry gin, Campari and clarified orange infused vermouth, B360)—a drier, lighter version of a negroni. Experienced drinkers can dive right in with the Great Powers (Rittenhouse rye, Ysabel Regina— cognac aged in a sherry cask—infused with oregano and topped with aromatic bitters, B460); as the name suggests, it’s powerful, but the good thing about drinking cocktails made by an SEA award-winner is that they’re so well-balanced, they go down easily.

The music: You guessed it: jazz.

The crowd: This is a serious cocktail drinking spot, yet it maintains a fun and lively vibe that could be enjoyed by everyone from your dad on weekdays to a big group of friends on a Friday night.

Why we’d come back: We’re so happy to see Milk back behind the bar again, there’s no doubt that we’ll be returning to try more of those well-rounded, spirit-forward cocktails. Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

008 Bar, 11/F, Akyra Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), Bangkok, Thailand,02-392-8959

80/20

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80/20

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We create brand stories with influence studio.asia-city.com

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shopping | go green

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Price: B2,250 for clutches; from B3,650 for totes; B3,750 for handbags Available at Room Concept Store, 3/F, The EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6522. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.leaststudio.com Kiddee Project

Madmatter What: This lifestyle brand makes minimal yet stylish totes that can easily fall in with your wardrobe staples. Madmatter breathes new life into deadstock fabrics and second-hand clothes from landfills, transforming them into useful everyday totes in understated, muted colors with eye-catching patchwork designs. Available in mongkol or good fortune colors in accordance with each day of the week, these totes can go with any outfit, from work to brunch to grocery shopping.

Price: B990 Available at 1/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 081-718-4771. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.madmatterstore.com

Kiddee Project

Madmatter

Chaaum Studio

Totes Cool

With the green movement in full momentum (see page 6), there has never been a better time to switch up single-use plastic bags for eco-friendly totes. Shop sustainably and in style with these local bag brands that offer some of the coolest eco-bags on the market.

By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

What: Kiddee Project is the brainchild of Vipavat Darapongsathaporn, designer of the youthful and fun bag brand Ta.Tha.Ta, who teamed up with Nan Hospital to create an eco-friendly line of totes made from dialysis bags used for patients with kidney disease. Aiming to reduce the amount of waste produced by hospitals, the Kiddee Project gives these medical products a fresh spin by upcycling them into urban, utilitarian-style totes. After being cleaned and sanitized, the dialysis bags are combined with polyester to create sturdy and functional bags that are true to Ta.Tha.Ta’s DNA. Price: B450 for pouches; B1,490 for tote bags; B1,790 for messenger bags; B1,990 for backpacks (net proceeds go directly to support Nan Hospital) Only available for order online at www.fb.com/Kiddeeproject.Thailand

Pad.Banana Leaf Product What: Yes, stylish, eco-friendly laptop bags do exist and Pad.Banana Leaf Product is here to prove it. They make handmade laptop totes you’ll actually want to carry, and they’re made from— you guessed it—dried banana leaves.

With her love for Thai traditional craft and an eye for design, owner and designer Padchareeya Fangod transforms disposable dried banana leaves into not just tote bags but a range of really chic accessories, including phone cases, lanyard cases, notebooks and wallets. The oil produced from the dried leaves when pressed and ironed makes the products water-resistant, plus they have a pleasant fragrance just like Thai desserts!

Price: B1,950 Only available for order online at www.fb.com/padchareeya1993

Chaaum Studio What: You may have noticed Bangkok city-dwellers carrying waist bags and totes that look like a mashup between Freitag and building-site waste, and thought they look pretty wicked. Well, they’re from Chaaum Studio, who recycle cement bags into stylish lifestyle accessories, including bum bags, tote bags, backpacks and wallets. The bags are functional and sturdy enough to be the perfect carry-all for your everyday essentials, while also being ideal travel companions. Plus, their street-style vibe will effortlessly inject a whole lot of fun to your daily outfits.

Price: B900-B1,990 Available at Chatuchack Market, Section 10 Soi 20/2, 064-785-1586. Open Sat-Sun 10am-5pm. www.fb.com/ chaaumstudio

Least Studio What: Work bags couldn’t get much smarter than Least Studio’s signature cutting mat design. Inspired by the durability of cutting mat material, this cruelty-free stationery brand took a foray into sturdy handbag and tote designs, blending leatherette with soft natural rubber that can be folded and rolled just like fabric. The result? Waterproof clutches, totes and handbags that are super durable and functional without sacrificing style. The Cutting Mat collection comes in a selection of colors that include forest green, indigo blue and marble gray.

Least Studio

GOOD BUYS

Where to go eco-friendly shopping in Bangkok

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ECOTOPIA Whether it’s sustainable fashion, trendy green accessories, or low-chemical natural cosmetic products, this hip green space has it all under one roof.

4/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-6581000. Open daily 10am10pm

BANGKOK SOAP OPERA Run by Ukrainian Maria Kalita, Bangkok Soap Opera is dedicated to recycling old cooking oil and everyday kitchen ingredients—anything that can become harmful waste—into lovely artisanal, handcrafted soaps and other skincare products.

46 Sukhumvit Soi 3 (Soi Phum Chit), 085-348-9791. Open Mon-Fri 11am-7pm. BTS Phra Khanong

SAVE EARTH STORE You can find some of the coolest upcycling lifestyle products here, from tote bags made from rice sacks to zipped purses made from paper and snack packaging.

1/F, Bangkok Arts and Culture Centre, Rama 1 Rd., 086-141-7385. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm

2/13/19 2:23 PM

neighborhood | st. louis

Super Seoul Cafe

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Super Seoul Cafe

All Good in the Hood

St. Louis Catholic Church

Todmun Mae Nong Mai

A Mixed Bag Sathorn’s Soi St. Louis emcompasses a wide array of people with a heap of varying religious beliefs. It’s safe to say this old-school-meets-urban neighborhood welcomes all— not to mention, its diversity draws in a lovely mix of street food.

By Clara Howell

Coffee & Breakfast Bask in the neighborhood’s chill vibes with a banana choco frappe (B120) at All Good in the Hood (14 Sathorn Soi 11, Yaek 5, 083597-9645) or try the avocado toast and nitro coffee combo for B250.

Craving something sweet? Head to Make Me Bread Dessert and Cafe (127/50 St. Louis Soi 3, 095490-9710) for a caramel macchiato (B70) and shaved ice with egg pandan custard (B125). The hungry can fill up on Cafe De Blue’s (270 Chan Soi 18/7, St.Louis Soi 3, 098413-9415) bacon eggs Benedict (B119) and a mango smoothie (B59) but be sure to leave room for Yun-Taiwanese Fusion Dessert Cafe’s (234/12 Soi Chan 18/7, 089-440-4555) unmissable har mae tub (Taiwanese-style shaved ice, B109).

Lunch & Dinner Check out the earthy, plant-filled Super Seoul Cafe (50/52 Sathorn

Soi 11, 081-881-7767) for their intricate lunch sets, featuring kimchi jigae (B205), a homemade kimchi soup with tofu, vegetables and pork, or the donkatsu curry (B230) with crispy pork and a side of kimchi. What St. Louis is known for, however, is its plethora of street food. Don’t miss the succulent braised pork on rice (B50-70) from the long-established Khao Ka Moo Jorsor 100 (St. Louis Soi 3, 02-2113553) or the generous servings of braised duck (B260) doled out at Boon Eak Restaurant (St. Louis Soi 3, 083-078-0291). Check out the fragrant chicken biryani (B40) from Khao Mok Gai Od Ton (St. Louis Soi 3, 086-078-5239) and the egg noodles with juicy shrimp wontons, and barbecued crispy pork (B45) at Hea Ngou Ba Mee Giew Koong (St. Louis Soi 3, 02-212-2099). For something sweet yet refreshing, try the iced dessert, chendol, at Lot Chong Singapore Pichit (St. Louis Soi 3, 089-588-8707).

Wine Hundreds

Drinks St. Louis might not be home to the most poppin’ nightlife scene, but hidden above Super Seoul Cafe, the hip, weekends-only modern Korean joint Wine Hundreds (50 Sathorn Soi 11, 081-881-7767) will cure your boozy cravings with a Tanqueray gin and tonic (B285) or a shot of grapefruit soju (B55).

If you feel like a late-night snack, try their cheese platter (B375)—a mix of truffle gouda, brie, smoked cheese, crackers, jam and almonds.

The buzzing bars of Sathorn 10-12 are a quick ride away.

Transport Though it’s no front-door service, Surasak BTS Station is less than a 10-minute stroll from St. Louis.

Accommodation Centered between BTS Chong Nonsi and BTS Surasak, Sky Villas Sathorn (187 Sathon Rd., 02-3431412) has 177 units from B40,000-

250,000/month. If you’re lucky, you might find an opening at Mini House Apartment (11 St. Louis Soi 2, 02-211-0402), whose 18 units run from B33,000-35,000/month.

The Room Sathorn-St. Louis (Chan Soi 18/7, 02-343-8900) boasts 376 units from B17,000-200,000.

Visit Check out rotating exhibitions from top contemporary artists at Sathorn 11 Art Space (404 St. Louis Soi 3, 02-004-1199), where you can even enjoy an al fresco drink at the attached bar. Thanks to residents with wide-ranging faiths, the St. Louis neighborhood is home to St. Louis Catholic Church (23 South Sathorn Rd., 02-212-0220), the nearby Jawa Mosque (Charoenrat Soi 1 Yaek 9, 02-675-6033) and even the historic Witsanu Hindu Temple (Soi Wat Prot, 085-3377146), making it a great spot for some spiritual digging.

BK ASKS

What makes living on St. Louis special?

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SANTI SRISONGKRAM, OWNER OF ALL GOOD IN THE HOOD “I think our area shows a real sense of living. It’s a peaceful mix of authentic and modern lifestyles.”

MIKE BOONMAHANARK, CO-FOUNDER OF SATHORN 11 ART SPACE “We have everything around here in the small community of St. Louis— old and new generations, food, schools and banks.”

KUANMNAUS “DEAR” LIMCHAROEN, OWNER OF SUPER SEOUL CAFE “I think St. Louis is a vintage part of Sathorn where you can see the urban Thai style of living—awesome local street food, condos, schools, salons, restaurants and cafes.”

2/13/19 5:33 PM

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