BK Magazine 745, Aug 24 2018

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Batter Up The Japanese restaurant doing deep-fried fine dining Going Solo Where to drink alone without looking like a loser Bean to Bar Thailand’s fancy chocolate-makers, tested Float On The director fighting anti-refugee rhetoric Who are you wearing?

NO. 745 AUG 24, 2018. www.bkmagazine.com

Perfect Fit Dress to impress with Bangkok’s best custom womenswear designers

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page 3 Who's in charge?

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Digital Director / Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Assistant Pakchira Bunphol Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley Junior Writer Kankanok Wichiantanon

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News Quiz

upfront

The Thai director taking his movie to Venice

Goodbye, August 2018. You’ve been awesome (but note to selves: no sheer clothing till at least November). After spending way, way too much time in queues—a nitro coffee specialist from Tokyo, a souffle pancake-maker from Osaka, a local Ben’s Cookie rival, and then another souffle pancake-maker from Osaka—we finally made it back to the office in time to do this roundup of some of your biggest headlines. Readers, see how well you’ve been paying attention...

Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Video Content Manager Wanlop Rungkuvijad Video Designer Saranya Laowtrakul Videographer Nattapol Srisukh Junior Video Editor Pattanagorn Adirekkiat Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Business Development Manager Rangsan khamloi Assistant Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Developers Passzarkorn Youthasoontorn, Wasan Wangrach Writer-Translator Tripop Leelasestaporn Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara

06 cover

Custom attire from Bangkok’s best dress-makers

How did a group of Thais aledgedly swindle close to B1 billion off an unsuspecting farang this month? a By not explaining the fine intricacies of bottle service at The Pimp. b With a startup unicorn app that lets tourists pre-book tuktuks to the Grand Palace then take them to an Indian tailor. c With a Bitcoin scam that, in the spirit of all past local scams, involves someone dating a soap star. d He damaged their jet ski.

SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Atiwat Uton Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Contributors Angela Symons, Kathy MacLeod

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Interns Nuttha Kitsopha, Petpailin Kirdasaeng, Wannaporn Bangsuanluang, Pathitta Kongkakate Cover design by Wirankan Saiyasombut

hit list

Must-visit places and events from around the city

Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

11 The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

The douche-free Phuket party guide

14 food

Every course in this Japanese tasting menu is deep fried

get in the loop

bkmagazine.com

facebook.com/bkmagazine

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@bkmagazine

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What will happen to the Khaosan street-food vendors now they’ve been forced to move off the backpacker street?

a Scrapping the selection of election inspectors and potentially delaying the election even further—according to a poll on the senate’s website. b Staging some kind of intervention to get Sek Loso help. Or at least just taking away his social media access. c Giving up on politicians and letting Gram Pancakes rule the country instead. The deliciousness of their light yet indulgent stacks of souffle pancakes is about the one thing we can all agree on. d Putting a dome over Lumphini Park and installing air-con.

Answers

contest, updates, stories

@bkmagazine

a Whether he thinks Mozza or Massilia makes the more authentic Neapolitan-style pizza. b Who can deadlift more—him or Thanasak. c Whether he will run for election. d Whether there’ll be an election.

100 percent of the Bangkok public are in favor of what?

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2018 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

latest news and trends

What big news is Dear Leader Prayuth set to announce next month?

a They will be retrained to serve foods the average Khaosan tourist actually eats, like McDonald’s and KFC. b They will be retrained as Michelin inspectors with the specialist local knowledge to find our next Jay Fai. c They will find new jobs with Thai Airways catering to Prawit’s insatiable, B600,000-per-flight noodle eating habit. d They will be moved into designated zones to make Khaosan the more “scenic” area we’ve all been crying out for.

travel

Where to find us!

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

1 The correct answer is (c), and thus Bitcoin-gate joins past celeb-endorsed local scams from diet milk to black-market Lambos.

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taste test

drink

Bangkok’s homegrown chocolate makers

Booze alone without looking like an alcoholic

2 The correct answer is (c). We will wait with baited breath to discover if the man who’s spent the better part of 2018 canvassing for election plans to stand for election.

3 The correct answer is (d). The BMA has listened to tourists’ wishes and will continue trying to make Bangkok more like Singapore.

4 The correct answer is (a). And there’s nothing unusual about that.

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upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

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HOT OR NOT Bangkok Post

SEMI-LUXURY TRAINS

This Thai director’s film fighting anti-refugee rhetoric is going to Venice INTERVIEW

Phuttiphong “Pom” Aroonpheng, 42, is a cinematographer and guest lecturer at Rangsit University whose directorial debut, Kraben Rahu (Manta Ray), will screen at the 75th Venice International Film Festival (Aug 29-Sep 8). We spoke to him about his film’s very real message and why it took eight years to complete.

“ This movie is about how people like to look down on others they don’t know ” THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

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Tell us about yourself.

I studied Fine Arts at Silpakorn University, which had nothing to do with film, but movies and video art have always been my passion. After I graduated, I got a job in the film industry and worked on my personal fine arts project for museums and exhibitions. Then I started to get into movies more so I became a cinematographer, because that’s where I would get to learn from working with both directors and actors.

How did you come to make your first movie?

When I decided I wanted to make my own movie, I applied for the Asian Film Academy Busan, which takes Asian filmmakers for a filmmaking course with top people from the Korean film industry, and got accepted. After I finished the course, I received the news that I would receive backing from the Asian Cinema Fund to make this movie.

Tell us more about the movie.

It’s about a fisherman who finds an unconscious man. The fisherman, whose wife just left him, brings the stranger in and nurses him back to life. The stranger does not speak a single word, is either mute or doesn’t want to speak. The fisherman offers the stranger his friendship. When the fisherman disappears at sea, the stranger slowly takes over the fisherman’s belongings, as well as his ex-wife. One day the fisherman comes back.

How did you come up with this story?

The story reflects on how city people see Rohingya people. I spent a lot of time researching the Rohingya and learned that they have always moved around, coming in and out of countries like this for ages. These 4-5 years, though, the media seem to have portrayed them in a negative light. I’ve seen some unbelievably terrible,

harmful comments on news posts online about Rohingya, and it shocked me how some people can say such heartless things to people they’ve never met before. There is a refugee problem all over the world. This movie is about how people like to look down on others they don’t know, and I thought the Rohingya are a great example of this.

Flickr: Brian Fagan

There’s no escaping it: the “luxury” rail carriages currently being pushed by the State Railway of Thailand are definitely more Ibis than InterCon. The Bangkok Post recently produced a video (pictured above) showing the SRT’s premium carriages in all their UPVC and laminate glory.

For now, we think the E&O Express is safe, but contact webmaster. srt@railway.co.th if you’d like to judge for yourself.

DEATH RAILWAY It just doesn’t have a good ring, does it? As Thailand pushes to have the bridge built under the Japanese military in Kanchanaburi recognized by UNESCO, a debate has flared up about whether, maybe, the name could do with a rethink.

In the “Against” corner is anyone wanting to stay on OK terms with Japan. In the “For” corner are the rest of us who think it sounds pretty cool.

How long have you been working on the film?

Since 2010.

What was the most difficult thing while making the film?

Trying to get the funding, but that’s a normal problem for indie movies, really. Of course, there is next to no chance of getting any funding in Thailand. It took eight years to make this movie, but it wasn’t like I was filming all that time; sometimes the project just lay still for a while till the money came in.

Will it ever hit cinemas in Thailand?

Yes, it must. I really want Thai people to see it.

Hopefully it will be out around the beginning of next year.

Are you working on any other projects at the moment?

I am part of the filmmaking group called Mit Out Sound Films, which consists of me, Chatchai Chaiyon, who is a producer for Vanishing Point and Island Funeral; and Jakrawal Nilthamrong, who directed Vanishing Point. The three of us are working on a new film, Anatomy of Time, which should start filming around the beginning of next year. We’ve got some funding from France already, but might need to find a little bit more.

J-BEAUTY Mark your calendar for Nov 2, because that’s the date Bangkok gets its very own branch of Shinjuku-born beauty megachain @cosme store. You have the good people at IconSiam, the soon-to-open riverside follow-up to Siam Paragon, to thank for filling the J-Beauty shaped hole that’s been in our local retail scene for way too long.

BITCOIN We went there. At the risk of enraging every Bitcoin bro in Bangkok, we’re calling it. Not because Bitcoin’s not a great place to put all your savings and tell all your friends about it over dinner—every dinner—loudly, but because a collective of Thai shysters just scammed B797 million worth of the cryptocurrency off a Finnish investor. Ouch.

Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

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cover | perfect fit

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Get the tailor-made evening gown of your dreams at Bangkok’s most-trusted dress-makers.

By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

“

I usually come to Cher’Z to get my dresses tailor-made.

I personally love their designs and their craftsmanship is spot-on. Every time I get my dresses tailored here, they fit me perfectly on the first try. My Chinese wedding dress was custom-made here as well.

Cher’z

Chai Gold Label

CHAI GOLD LABEL

”

Praewpetch “Nina” Kankiatkul, Beauty Influencer from Nina BeautyWorld

This luxe evening-wear label founded by designer Chai Jiamkittikul offers a modern breath of fresh air when it comes to evening gowns. Exuding understated and exquisite femininity, the label is best known for red carpet-worthy gowns that combine a modern take on the traditional Thai shawl-like garment sabai with unique draping techniques. Think lustrous satin gowns with voluminous drapes falling from your shoulder, or the alluring, one-shoulder sabai-inspired silk gown with bow detail at the waist. The effect? Exotic goddess. Chai’s dresses usually come in shades of gold, deep burgundy or emerald green, as well as with wildflower prints. Dresses are tailor-made based only on the label’s designs, which usually take around three weeks to a month to complete. They also offer a ready-to-wear range, available at EmQuartier and Siam Paragon.

CHER’Z

Price: From B10,000-B30,000 depending on designs and materials used.

2/F, Qurator Zone, EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-276-6252. Open daily 10am-10pm. Instagram: @chaigoldlabel

When it comes to minimal evening gowns and wedding dresses with elegant-chic flair, Cher’Z should be one of your go-tos. Their specialty: really stylish yet understated and timeless wedding dresses and evening gowns that help bring out every woman’s femininity. From soft, flowy cocktail dresses and sassy, peplum gowns to sophisticated wedding dresses, this dressmaker can do them all. The wide range of fabrics includes silk organza and silk duchess satin, which are ideal for adding that dreamy, ethereal touch to evening gowns. Feel free to bring design references to show to the tailors and they’ll help make your ideas come to life. Dresses usually take 7-14 days, but the tailors can speed things up for you if you’re in a hurry. Their ready-to-wear pieces are also available at 2/F, Qurator Zone, EmQuartier, if you’re not too fussed about getting your dress tailor-made.

Price: From B14,500 for evening gowns and cocktail dresses and B65,000 for custom-made wedding dresses.

Ch ai

88 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 095-962-5565. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. BTS Asoke (flagship store) www.fb.com/cherzdress

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

HOUSE OF NARONG

If owning a stunning, red carpet gown seems far-fetched to you, then check out this tailor for one-of-a-kind evening dresses that will suit the most special of occasions. House of Narong is the real deal. Founder and designer Narong Ketkaew has established himself as a long-time favorite among Bangkok’s rich and famous. A staple of leading runways and award shows, his work has appeared on Bangkok International Fashion Week and The Face Thailand. Show-stopping evening gowns are the specialty, along with cocktail and wedding dresses that demonstrate killer tailoring and exquisite embroidery. From a beaded bodysuit or silk full skirt to sexy low-cut sequin jumpsuits and lustrous, bohemian style wedding gowns, Narong’s design range is limitless. Make your appointments with the designer himself or two other in-house designers. They will spend at least one hour with you, first discussing the exact design you want and then taking your measurements. As with any one-of-a-kind evening gown, don’t expect your dress to be done quickly—it could take up to two months, or four months if it’s a wedding dress.

Price: From B10,000 but B40,000-50,000 is the average depending on design and materials.

63 Nang Linchee Soi 3, 02-286-9879. Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm.

Instagram: @narong_official

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“

What I like most about House of Narong is their super-neat craftsmanship, plus they give you really good recommendations and advice in terms of style and etiquette, like what dress is appropriate for which occasion. Other places I’ve been to, sure, they can make dresses but they lack the knowledge about good etiquette.

”

Pamme Lim, Youtuber/Blogger and CEO of Beeline Tours & Travel

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ai

Go

ld

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Realistic Situation

House of Narong

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I choose Chai Gold Label for their timeless style. I don’t like evening gowns that are too typical or too fancy. Chai’s dresses are minimal and understated, but the unique details set them apart from other brands. I like how I can pair, say, an emerald green dress with only one piece of vintage jewelry or a simple clutch and already get a complete look.

Less is more with this brand.

”

Kanokkan Ngaosalee, Owner of Eclair Hands Nail Studio

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REALISTIC SITUATION

A sophisticated evening dress that can be worn again as cool everyday wear? Yes, they do exist. Known for their whimsical, fashion-forward, asymmetric and deconstructed dresses as well as loose-fitting silhouette pieces including shirts, blazers and pants, this womenswear label owned by designer Platt “Mai” Pladhi is beautifully versatile. Pair a midi-length dress with a smart blazer and heels for a business meeting or dress it down with your favorite designer sneakers or boyish brogues for a casual lunch date. If you want something more glamorous and dramatic, the label also offers “formal” evening gowns, as seen in their latest Thai Silk Capsule Collection 2018. Bring your references to the tailors to discuss with them the style of dress you want, then they will help you sketch out ideas and choose the materials according to your budget. Dresses usually take at least two weeks to make (for simple, uncomplicated styles), but if you’re in a hurry, the tailor can finish it within seven days. You can also check out their ready-to-wear collections at 1/F, Thai Designer Zone, Siam Paragon, and 2/F, Qurator Zone, EmQuartier.

For evening gowns or dresses for special occasions, I always go to Mai [Realistic Situation’s head designer]. I hardly ever need to tell him what style of dress I want—I trust him to make the dress that he thinks will suit my style and personality. I’m always surprised by his vision and I’m never disappointed with the result.

”

Jongkol Tangpradit Palarit, Fashion Editor at Vogue Thailand

Price: From B30,000 depending on designs and materials used.

172/6 Pridi Banomyong Soi 14, 02-381-8512. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Instagram: @realisticsituation

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hit list | 7 new reasons to love bangkok

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

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This new designer zone highlights the best of Thai fashion FASHION

Fashionistas can make their way to the second floor of Zen Department Store at CentralWorld to check out Thai Thai, a new zone dedicated to our very own local fashion talents. Like the zone of the same name which opened at Central Chidlom in 2014, Thai Thai at CentralWorld brings together 15 top Thai designer brands on one floor. Amid an elegant and glamorous open space of light-colored wood and marble, the designer brands on show include Asava, ASV by Asava, Canitt, Hamburger Studio, Insomnia by Vara, Janesuda, Lolita Party, Milin, Patinya, Poem, Reflex Angela, Thea by Thara, Tohns, Valentier and Vickteerut. As for our favorite pieces, the smart, pleated, long-sleeve red dress from Asava’s Pre-Fall 2018 collection (B16,000) and the sleeveless Anubis Night black jumpsuit from Insomnia by Vara (B12,990) really stand out for formal events, while the delicate lace sleeveless blouse (B8,200) from Janesuda is versatile enough to be paired with its matching lace mini skirt (B12,000), cropped jeans, chinos or black work pants—a wardrobe must-have. 2/F, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-9999.

Open daily 10am-10pm

NUMEROLOGY

This salon nails it on price Seen at 13 BTS stations, this nail studio from Tokyo is a big hit for its affordability and convenience. Here’s what services will cost you at Nail It.

B200

Single color gel polish PVC removal PVC extension

B300

Four color gel polish Art print basic pack: one color gel polish + 2 nail prints Acrylic removal

B450

WELLNESS

FITNESS

LAPTOP

02 Eco-friendly aromatics

03 Get strong at this

04 This is Apple’s most

for a home sanctuary

grown-ups’ playground

powerful laptop to date

If you’re looking to transform your home into a relaxing aromatherapy sanctuary, then check out the organic aromatics at B Sa B’s new CentralWorld flagship store. They’re all about creating eco-friendly products, using 100-percent natural undiluted essential oils and vases made from recovered glass and ceramics for their diffusers, as well as pure soy wax for their chemical and preservative-free candles. Our favorites include the aquatic scent beeswax cube set (B990) and the stress-relieving volcanic stone diffuser in English lavender (B790). 2/F, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-076-3386. Open daily 10am-10pm

If you’re feeling the effects of “office syndrome,” Jetts Fitness may have the cure. Bangkok’s new 24-hour fitness club from Australia seeks to offer a “grown-ups’ playground” with its “FX Training,” a functional full-body workout that focuses on stamina, endurance, balance and flexibility to help improve your posture. Each class is led by professional trainers and features a wide range of equipment for participants to let loose and have fun. Membership is B1,500/month or B15,600/12 months. Stadium One, Chulalongkorn Soi 4, 095849-4375. Open daily 24 hours

What: 15-inch MacBook Pro 2018 Price: B85,900 for 256GB or B100,900 for 512GB Who’s it for: Apple fans in need of an upgrade Why? With its 6‑core Intel Core i9 processor, the 15-inch version works 70 percent faster than the previous generation. Plus, with an SSD up to 4TB, you’ll have more than enough space to store your biggest files without the need for external hard drives, and its third-generation keyboard is slightly quieter, too. Available at iStudio, 3/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9315. Open daily 10am-10pm www.apple.com

All glitter

B500

Glitter on color

Hitlist Shopping BK745 Aug 24_18.indd 8

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.

BUY IT VANS X VAN GOGH AUTHENTIC Wear art on your feet with these magical sneakers (B2,500).

BIN IT DIOR SADDLE BAG This bag should stay in the noughties where it belongs.

BARGAIN POMELO JUMPSUITS At only B990, this jumpsuit is a steal compared with Topshop’s average jumpsuit costing B3,000.

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

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Nightlife

SWEATER BEATS The electronic music producer brings his future bass, electro, indie and chill trap beats to the stage. Aug 24, 3pm. Violett, The Third Place Bldg., 141 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor) Soi 10, 095-393-8858. B790.

JASPER JAMES The DJ ranked 69th on Resident Advisor’s Top 100 DJs list fills the dancefloor with freeform house, disco and techno. Aug 24, 9pm-2am.

BEAM, 72 Courtyard, 1/F, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7750. B300.

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The Killers’ first Bangkok show is coming up fast

DON’T FORGET

It was back in May that news first broke of Las Vegas-born rockers The Killers heading to Bangkok’s Thunder Dome (Sep 17, 7pm. Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd.). If you haven’t got your tickets already then act fast—the Sep 17 concert is almost here, when you’ll get to hear front-man Brandon Flowers lighting up with hits from their 2004 album Hot Fuss— “Mr. Brightside,” “Somebody Told Me,” “Smile Like You Mean It”—as well as (groan) the new stuff.

B2,800 on Ticketmelon.com.

A LIFE IN SHADOWS This photo documentary by Australian photographer Constantine Korsovitis explores the traditional art of shadow theater. Through Aug 26.

RCAC, 84 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-422-8827. Free.

TOM MISCH The British indie-R&B-crooner performs tracks from his five albums. Aug 25, 7pm.

Moonstar Studio, 701 Lad Phrao Soi 80, 02-539-3881.

Sold out.

BANGKOK THROUGH POSTER 2018 More than 70 artists share their ideas through posters under the concept of “What is your Bangkok?” Aug 25Sep 8, 6pm. Kinjai Contemporary, 44 Rajvithi Rd., 089815-3082.

PHUM VIPHURIT The Thai-born, New Zealand-raised crooner who stole hearts with his summery single “Lover Boy” performs alongside four-piece electronic band Temp. Aug 30, 6pm12am. Nineteens Up, Silom Soi 19. B450-550.

OUTPUT FESTIVAL 2018 Expect EDM and house artists like Boombox Cartel, NGHTMRE, Slander, Cash Cash, The Him and more. Sep 7, 3pm2am. BITEC, 88 Bang Na-Trat Rd. From B1,355. http://music.trueid.net/

WATERZONIC 2018 The 5th edition of the festival welcomes Dimitri Vegas & Like Mike, Mike Williams, Sem Vox , Andrew Rayel, Gammer, and more. Sep 1415, 5pm. Live Park Rama 9, 02-593-2224. From B3,500.

06 Is this the biggest US

boyband of the moment?

It’s taken American boy-band Why Don’t We just 12 months to release four EPs and rack up 65 million audio streams thanks to R&B-pop hybrids like “Trust Fund Baby” and “Hooked.” See them live when they visit Bangkok as part of their Invitation Tour, happening this month. Aug 27, 7pm. GMM Live House, 8/F, CentralWorld, 999/1 Rama 1 Rd. B1,800-3,500 on Ticketmelon.com.

CONCERT

07 Baby are you down?

Jay Sean headed to Bangkok

THESE EVENTS SHINE A LIGHT ON MINORITY ISSUES

Calendar BK 744_Aug 10_18_New.indd 9

FRENCH DOC NIGHT: ON THE EDGE OF THE WORLD Catch a screening of the 2013 documentary revealing the untold story of the Paris homeless at Doc Club Theater, supported by La Fête and Documentary Club. Aug 24, 25, 27, 29. Doc Club Theater, Charoenkrung Soi 30.

B100 on entry, reservations at www.fb.com/ DocumentaryClubTH.

TOMBOY BY DEREK BROWN American photographer Derek Brown explores gender boundaries and self-esteem, providing a voice for Thailand’s so-called tomboys, and exploring Thailand’s paradoxical relationship with the LGBTQ community. Through Sep 23. Wishbeer Garden, 707 Charoen Nakorn Soi 13, 02-392-1403. Free.

NEON DIARY BY TACHPASIT KUNAPORN The International Center of Photography graduate looks at neon light and the deceptive tricks it plays on our eyes.

Through Sep 2. The Jam Factory, Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-861-0950. Free.

BORDERLINE Photographer Ti Foster traces his internal reflections from1991-98 that finally resulted in his artistic outlook.

Through Sep 8. PT-Gallery, Charoenkrung Soi 30, 02266-4344.

Sports

Classical

Jay Sean will rock Bangkok for the very first time performing hit tracks like his Billboard smash number one, “Down”, as well as “Stolen”, “Make My Love Go”, “Do You Remember,” and more. Sep 13, 9pm. Levels, 6/F, Sukhumvit Soi 11. From B490 on Ticketmelon.com or B890 on the door.

STORIES UNTOLD

Art

Concerts

Festivals

CONCERT

JOSHUA BELL The violin soloist performs his first concert in Thailand in honor of King Rama X, playing Max Bruch’s Violin Concerto and Sarasate. Sep 4, 8pm.

Main Hall, Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadaphisek Rd. B800-B5,000.

SIAM SINFONIETTA The youth orchestra performs the tragic Mahler’s Sixth Symphony with Somtow Sucharitkul as conductor. Aug 31, 8pm. SCB Plaza Mahisorn Hall, B200-B1,000.

TEATRO DI SAN CARLO & ORCHESTRA / ZUBIN MEHTA (CONDUCTOR) Europe’s oldest opera house and their orchestra perform works by Carmen, Beethoven and Tchaikovsky. Sep 12-15, 7.30pm. Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadaphisek Rd. B2,000-10,000.

BANGKOK MIDNIGHT MARATHON 2018 This nocturnal run offers full, half and mini marathons to suit all abilities, with the marathon starting at Sanam Chai Road and ending at the Giant Swing. Book online on Runlah.com. Aug 25-26, midnight-6am. B500-2,400.

Markets & Fairs TRAVEL EXPO BANGKOK - THAI TEAW THAI Presenting great deals and special offers from a ton of travel companies—perfect for planning your next trip. Aug 30-Sep 2, 10am-4pm. Queen Sirikit National Convention Center. Free.

8/17/18 4:49 PM

travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

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CAMBODIA

02 Check out Cambodia’s soon-toopen luxury camp

01

This is what U$123 million has done to a Beijing hotel

02

03

CHIANG MAI

NAKHON PATHOM

03 Chiang Mai’s onsen

04 This low-key

Onsen at Moncham (www.onsenmoncham. com) brings the Japanese bathing ritual to northern Thailand. Offering just 16 rooms and suites (from B5,220/night for the mountain-view room; B10,440/night for the onsen suite), the high-end retreat abounds in minimalist blondwood and bamboo elegance. Access a range of therapeutic pools and private bathtubs utilizing natural spring water that comes directly from the source—as is Japanese custom, you must go commando. The lounge comes well stocked with Japanese whiskies and wines, while an open-air restaurant by the lake offers mostly Japanese and Thai dishes.

Jumtla Campiness (www.fb.com/jumtlaglampingresort) is a boutique glamping spot that lets you get away from it all while barely leaving the city. Nestled amid rice fields beside the Tha Chin River, these tents come protected from the elements by cement-tile foundations and oldschool thatched roofs. (The only real downside is having to share the restroom with other guests.)

This mini-resort also promises nourishing food, with the kitchen whipping up meals cooked with vegetables plucked fresh from their chemical-free garden and river prawns caught fresh off the water. The cost of B1,450/person/night includes breakfast and dinner.

retreat offers a taste of Japan countryside

CHINA

After a US$123 million revamp, the Peninsula Beijing (www.peninsula.com) now houses 230 suites instead of its prior 525 rooms (from B10,629/night). China’s first luxury hotel, which opened in 1989 as the Palace, boasts elegant new interiors (all pearl-white palette and marble floors) to go with a polished black swimming pool, a gallery-worthy collection of paintings and sculptures, and a high-end spa that draws its treatments from Chinese wellness tradition. Standard rooms have doubled in size, to 65 square meters, and come an with oversized living area, all-marble bathroom and spacious walk-in closet. The Beijing Suite (B20,484) even includes its own private cinema.

Hitlist Travel BK745 Aug 24_18_New.indd 10

King of Southeast Asian resort chic Bill Bensley has secured a patch of land hidden deep in the Cambodian jungle to build 15 ultra-luxury tents meandering along a two-mile stretch of river. Set to open in November, Shinta Mani Wild (www. shintamani.com) takes the idea of camping in a seriously swanky direction, nestled within South Cardamom National Park, three hours’ drive south of Phnom Penh. The resort’s “tents” cover a whopping 100 sq meters and boast all the mod-cons, plus a terrace perched directly above the water. To fill in the time, you can cruise the waterways on a Bensley-designed boat or roam the forest with researchers. Wind down with a massage, then hit up the restaurant on the waterfall’s edge. Rates are TBA, but don’t let that stop you dreaming.

glamping spot sits just outside Bangkok

8/17/18 4:46 PM

travel | phuket

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

The Phuket Set

11

Phuket’s latest stays

Now that Surin sucks, here’s where in-the-know islanders let their hair down. (Hint: it’s not Patong.)

By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj Xinlor House

Cachet Resort Dewa Phuket Breathing new life into the former Dewa Phuket Resort is the first Thailand opening from this youthful, affordable group. On Nai Yang Beach, backed

by Sirinat National Park, Cachet is a sleek looking place dominated by black marble, polished concrete floors and deep mahogany. Rates start at B3,200/night. www.cachetphuketdewa.com BaBa Beach Club

Catch Beach Club

O

nce a party hot spot filled with sophisticated restaurants and beach clubs, Phuket’s Surin Beach is no longer the go-to alternative to hectic Patong.

Following the army’s 2016 demolition of all of its bars and restaurants in a bid to “restore its natural beauty,” the beach now sees far quieter days, remaining pretty much empty—besides from a whole lot more trash. So, where can holiday-makers retreat to these days?

Here’s a breakdown of where to eat, drink and party without having to face the overbearing crowds of Patong.

Sunday brunch at Twinpalms Hotel It’s not completely game over for Surin—at least not across the street. After taking a morning stroll on the beach and meeting the local surfers, head to Twinpalms for Sunday brunch—just three minutes’ walk from the sand. For B1,690, you’ll get everything from cold cuts and sushi to foie gras and fresh berries, to name but a few, not forgetting the half bottle of wine that’s thrown in, too. If you’re feeling fancy, B7,380 will get you brunch for two plus a bottle of French champagne.

106/46 Moo 3, Surin Beach Rd., Choeng Thale, Thalang, Phuket, 076-316-500. Brunch deal served every Sun midday-3pm

A glass of wine or two at Luca Cini A Wine Story This place is the only Italian-only bar and bistro in Phuket, serving over 140 Italian wines from across 12 different regions, with plenty of snacks and hot plates to boot. The eponymous owner somehow brings in quality Italian products while still keeping prices affordable. Wine by the glass starts at B260, which will get you a sparkling brut or Cabernet Sauvignon, while essential accompaniments of cold cuts and cheese start from B300 per plate.

49/15 Boat Avenue, Bandon-Cherngtaley Rd., Cherngtaley, Phuket, 094-804-4461. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm

Keep it flowing at Drinks & Co. This spot focuses solely on drinks, and they do it well, stocking over 250 bottles of wine from around the world, with 98 bottles under B1,000 and 20 under B600, as well as a 120-bottle-strong spirit selection.

Start off with a refreshing bottle of New Zealand Astrolabe Beacon Hill Pinot Rose (B800) before moving on to the sparkling Fleur De France (B640). You can drink in-house or take away for the same price.

Lagoon Plaza, 21/11 Lagoon Rd., Boat Avenue (Opposite Skye Lake Club), Phuket, 086-309-1392. Open daily 11am-2pm; 5-11pm

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Chilled out cocktails at Bluesiam Beach Club This is a laid-back beach club, ideal for those who aren’t big on partying but still want to drink. The food menu is decent, too, stocked full of comfort dishes with prices ranging from B200 for pak choob paeng tord (tempura vegetables with plum sauce) up to B2,600 for a bucket of fresh seafood for 2-4 people. Signature cocktails are inspired by tropical flavors, all priced at B280. The Mellow Mandarin (citrus and mandarin infused vodka with passion fruit juice, topped with mandarin and lime slices) makes the perfect companion for watching the sunset.

99/1 Bangtao Beach Rd., Bangtao Beach, Thalang, Phuket, 076-386-595. Open daily 10am-10pm

Get the party started at Catch Beach Club Once located on pre-demolition Surin Beach, this beach club has come back in full force with a new location that’s just as good, if not better. It’s known for its party atmosphere and has hosted names like Roger Sanchez, Erick Morillo and Bob Sinclair in the past, with Prok & Fitch and Mark Knight scheduled for this year’s New Year’s Eve party. Cocktails start from B250, or to really get the party started, why not opt for a jug of sangria (B990)?

202/88 Moo 2, Cherngtalay, Thalang, Phuket, 065-3482017. Open daily 9-1am

Phuket’s luxurious Sri Panwa joins the beach club craze on Natai Beach with this opening as much about parties on the sand as glam accommodation. Sitting on 42 rai of pristine oceanfront land, it offers 16 villas and suites whose B18,000/night entry point ensures that this will be one very exclusive club.There’s a modish energy to the mix of Sino-Portuguese-inspired decor, enlivened by royal blues and splashes of orange. In the middle of it all, the Baba Bar stands primed for beach parties with DJs flown in from around the world.The property promises it’ll have music blaring from day to night, with rooms outfitted with the best sound systems for when you want to take the party indoors. www.bababeachclub.com Xinlor House This Old Town hotel has taken up residence in an unassuming townhouse—easily identified by its bright facade, tall windows and zebra crossing entranceway. Head on upstairs past rows of vibrant green potted plants and you'll find an exclusive three guest rooms, each with a fresh white and blue color scheme.The Superior Room starts at B1,500, while the Deluxe Room at B2,000 comes with its own balcony—ideal for observing the surrounding Indo-Chinese architecture and local goings on. For larger groups or a special occasion, the Suite Room (B3,000) comes with a guest room, bathtub and balcony. www.fb.com/xinlorhouse Robinson Club German full-board hospitality brand Robinson Club has just opened its first Thailand location on a serene 13km stretch of beach near Phuket’s mainland neighbor, Khao Lak.Taking over the former space of Pullman Khao Lak with a 320-room, nine-swimming-pool resort covering 280,000 sq meters, this is the group’s biggest project to date. Packages start from B8,000/ night. goo.gl/MuYtW6

8/16/18 8:01 PM

food & drink | news

12

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

HOT OFF THE PASS

Notes from the Bangkok food scene

01

Top international chefs to converge on Bangkok this September

STAR STUDDED

So Amazing Chefs, So Sofitel’s celebration of high-wire gastronomy, returns for the seventh year in Bangkok this Sep 14-23 with dinners and masterclasses from some of the world’s finest. This year’s event will span seven dinners alongside cooking classes, a Sunday brunch and a Diageo-helmed mixologist night.

Between them, the 21 guest chefs and culinary whizzes count 14 Michelin stars. There’s Guy Lassausaie, chef-owner of the century-old, two-starred Restaurant Guy Lassausaie in Lyon, France, and Paul Liebrandt, chef-owner of the two-starred Corton in New York, as well as the mother-daughter duo of María Jose San Roman, chef-owner of one-star Monastrell in Alicante, Spain, and María Eugenia Perramon San Roman, director at her family tapas bar La Taberna del Gourmet in Alicante, Spain. Dinners cost from B3,000/person for four courses on Sep 14, up to B13,000 for 14 courses on Sep 23. Other highlights include a pair of pastry masterclasses (Sep 17 and 19, B2,400) with Mario Barrios, former patissier of the two-Michelin-star Librije’s Zusje Amsterdam in the Netherlands, and Sep 20’s Asian Pop-Up (from B3,500/person), which sees Nicolas Elalouf of Hong Kong’s fusion dim-sum restaurant Man Mo team up with AccorHotels’ Piti Saengmanee and Chettha Intarawong for four courses incorporating European ingredients into Cantonese cuisine. So Sofitel, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000.

MRT Lumpini

TAKE TWO

TINY TEMPURA

RISE UP

02 Two young-blood chefs are joining forces for one night

03 Hipster tempura kiosk heads to Charoenkrung

04 The Old Town’s artisanal baker is back in business

Canadian chef Andrew Martin, formerly of 80/20 and now Issaya, has won many plaudits for his whole-hearted approach to sourcing local ingredients. This Aug 31, he’ll be welcomed into the kitchen of Canvas by Texan Riley Sanders, a fellow globetrotting chef with an eye for esoteric Thai produce and exquisite detail. Across eight courses (B2,900 per person) they’ll take ant eggs, snake gourd and swamp algae among other finds, in all manner of creative directions, with dessert by Issaya’s Paper Chongphanitkul. 113/9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 099-614-1158

Batt Tempura has bid farewell to its tiny Ekkamai hovel and resurfaced near the river. The flashing neon signs remain, but Batt mk. 2 is an altogether bigger, better venture. Here, chef Chatphon Thavornvanit calls upon high-profile neighbor Napol “Joe” Jantraget, of 80/20, to help take the restaurant in a more sustainable direction. Order the tendon set (B350) and you’ll not only get juicy shrimp tempura and various types of local fish, but also a miso soup and salad showing off crisp organic veggies. Yotha Rd., 082-559-2895. Open Mon-Sat 11am-10.30pm

After a couple years in the wilderness, Pollen Baked Goods has reopened in an ultra-tiny, ultra-hip little spot. The team from Seven Spoons are behind Pollen’s rustic creations, from puffy Canadian-style cinnamon buns (B65) to spongy, cardamom-tinged madeleines (B18). It’s not all about sugar hits—you’re also able to pick up a classic bread roll (B120), too. There’s barely room for 10 seats, but if you nab a table, be sure to pair your baked treat with a glass of homemade lemonade (B50). 6/7 Jakkapatdipong Rd., 065-217-7043.

Open Tue-Sun 9am-5pm

CRAB INCOMING After a couple years of teasing, Ministry of Crab looks set to open in Phrom Phong by the end of the year. The Asia’s 50 Best mainstay is known for its signature crab in four ways—chill crab, pepper crab, garlic crab and Sri Lankan crab curry—and this branch is said to be embracing the Thai mud crab.

UNHAPPY HOUR Vogue Lounge, the swanky rooftop cocktail joint offering by far the best happy hour on Sathorn, has closed. Is this King Power ringing the changes at MahaNakhon? Will other closures follow? Will that cheesy blue sign ever change?

The answers to these questions and more coming soon.

GROWING FAMILY Cocotte, Pesca, Mozza… now Lola. The latest addition to the Medi-leaning restaurant group will do a combination of Italian and American comfort food, from a spot behind Pesca on Ekkamai Soi 12.

YOU SAID WHAT?

“OBESITY WILL SOON BE THE RULE AMONG THE THAI MIDDLE-CLASS… THE SIZE OF THESE JAPANESE SUGAR & FAT BOMBS IS WORRYING!”

Hit lists food and drink_BK 745_Aug 24_18_New.indd 12

SANDY RICHARDSON RAINS ON GRAM’S JIGGLY-PANCAKE PARADE (SEE PAGE 25)

Flikr: Travellers travel photobook

The news in online foodie Facebook rants

“THEY ARE NOT STREET FOOD AND ARE NOT LEGENDARY.” SOOKSUN POPUN-NGARM TAKES AIM AT OUR CLAIM KHAO SAN HAS BEEN CLEARED OF ITS LEGENDARY STREET FOOD

“WAS IT A SHOCK? THE DUDE'S MOST FAMOUS RECIPE CALLED FOR 2 PARTS OF POTATO TO 1 PART OF BUTTER…” VILLY BORIRAJ ON THE PASSING OF FRENCH MASTER CHEF JOEL ROBUCHON

8/17/18 4:52 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

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8/17/18 4:53 PM

food & drink | open doors

Ginza Tenharu takes tempura to new heights The buzz: This is not Bangkok’s first tempura omakase—a chef’s selection of premium deepfried produce served around a sushi-style counter—but it is its most pedigreed. Tenharu is here thanks to the one-Michelin-star Ginza Sushi Ichi team and, like that restaurant, this one also hails from a seriously fancy mother branch in Tokyo.

The decor: No one’s rewriting the omakase rulebook here. It’s tiny, everything is immaculately understated, and the doorway is so discreet you’d think they were trying to hide the place.

Clearly it’s not doing them any harm, since every seat at the 12-person counter was taken during our visit. Two chefs man a pair of glass-entombed frying stations, where they not only do the cooking but also conduct an atmosphere that never feels too serious. The chefs joke around as the customers snap Instagram pics without feeling guilty.

The food: Enormous Hokkaido scallops, decadently rich Kobe beef, pockets of nori stuffed with creamy sea urchin and other such highly prized produce—all jet-propelled from Japanese markets more recently than you last went to bed—get delicately fried in sunflower oil and presented to customers one piece after another. Head chef Kawaguchi Daiki

NNOD_BK 745_Aug 24_18.indd 14

jumped ship from a Michelin-star restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton Tokyo to run the show here. His B6,500 dinner omakase charts some 11 tempura courses before adding in appetizers of sashimi and a hearty main course of soba noodles or a rice bowl to finish.

It’s a heady amount of food to get through and utterly indulgent, but there’s also a lighter B4,500 option.

The drinks: Sake in 720ml bottles begins from B1,700, for which you’ll get a smooth, 50-percent milled Ginban Banshu junmai daiginjo. The wine list is concise and Old World. Laurent Perrier (B7,900-9,900) and Salon-Delamotte (B2,700-7,900) are the Champagnes of choice.

There’s also Sapporo by the bottle (B190), a few Glenfiddich whiskies (B280-450) and a list of Japanese fruit liqueurs.

Why we’d come back: While we can think of a dozen reasons why we’d love to come back for dinner on a regular basis, truth is that at these prices you’re far more likely to find us here at lunch service, when the fixed menus drop to B1,800-3,000.

Oliver Irvine

3/F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-070-0014. Open Tue-Sun midday-2:30pm, 6-11pm. www.ginza-tenharu.jp/bangkok

8/16/18 8:07 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

15

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 13, 2018

15

Gram Cafe & Pancakes

NEW AND NOTED

01 Japan’s fluffiest, jiggliest pancakes come to Bangkok Osaka’s much-hyped souffle pancake specialist, Gram Cafe & Pancakes, has opened on the ground floor of Siam Paragon (991 Rama 1 Rd., 089-966-9995), where it’s already causing queues of up to a couple of hours. Just like its 50+ branches in Japan (there are 13 in Osaka alone), the store comes in tasteful tones of green, white and blond wood. The cafe’s main claim to fame is its 4cm-thick fluffy pancakes (B295), which come in stacks of three layered with “Nama cream”—that is, maple syrup, butter and whipped cream. These wobbly wonders are the stuff of Instagram dreams and the flavors also don’t disappoint. A hand-size takeaway version is available for B75.

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02 Head here for heavenly hummus

03 It’s always Sunday at this Thonglor cafe

The people behind Mama Dolores Pizza on leafy Yen Akat have opened Hummus Boutique (999 Sukhumvit Rd., 092-819-8131), an all-Mediterranean,all-vegetarian venture decked out in warm woods and patterned tiles. The signature chickpea dip is elevated with tons of toppings and styles. Try the Lucid Dreams (B280), which features avocado, rocket, egg, kalamata olives, almonds and balsamic over a bowl of creamy hummus. The more traditional Falafel Party (B220) combines crispy falafel with hummus and a chopped pickle salad. Scoop up all that deliciousness with an order of house-made pita (B20). For brekkie, try the shakshuka (B190), slowcooked sweet tomatoes topped with an egg and served with pita.

Set just off the main Thonglor thoroughfare, Sundays Cafe (44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13, 061-928-2664) is impossible to miss, its exterior covered in bright, abstract paint splatters. Inside, too, is all a-jumble with a Dada-ist mess of antiques, trinkets and portraits.

There’s a similar feeling of anything-goes on the menu: Eastmeets-West in the nam prik narok kao goong (B290), in which angel hair pasta is topped with chili and doused in shrimp roe, while it’s a case of Nutella-on-Nutella in the fudgy Bruce Cake (B190).

8/16/18 8:07 PM

food & drink | taste test

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

16

David’s Soft Cookies

Red Diamond

NEW AND NOTED

Taste test_ BK 745 Aug24_18_01_New.indd 16

04 Brewpub project to revolutionize the craft beer scene

05 These are some next-level soft-baked cookies

06 CentralWorld has a new artisanal coffee roaster

Victory Monument’s Mitr Bar (3/F, 46 Rangnam Rd., 089-799-1123) offers 20 taps of local craft beers fresh from Nonthaburi’s Mitr Craft project, where six big players in the Thai craft beer scene—Chit Beer, Devanom, Wizard Beer, Red Stone, Lazy Fat Cat and Mickleheim—have joined forces.

Aspiring brewers can register their profile on www.mitrcraft.com and pitch their projects to be sold alongside Devanom Sauvignon Blanc Ale (B160/B240) and Chit Beer Blood Moon Rye Red Ale (B140/B220) from Mitr Bar’s industrial-chic perch overlooking the BTS line.

Chef David Okamoto, of back-inthe-day freakshake pioneer David’s Bakery (now Time Bakery under different ownership), is back with his decadent cookies. At B59 a piece, David’s Soft Cookies come in 15 jaw-dropping flavors, from Pancake Breakfast to Strawberry Kit Kat to Orange Creamsicle. If you ask us, you can’t really beat the simple Oatmeal Chocolate with its hefty cubes of chocolate that put the usual chips to shame. For pure cookie porn, check out their Instagram at @davidsoftcookies. If you don’t manage to catch one of their market pop-ups, you can place an order via Line at the same handle (minimum of six pieces, delivered within two days).

Red Diamond, Lad Phrao’s rusty temple to coffee, has opened in the center of town. The elegant dark-wood counter at CentralWorld (5/F, Beacon Zone, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd.) goes beyond espresso to offer coffee from PourSteady, SteamPunk and other forms of gadgetry you don’t usually see at the mall—reflected in prices that start at B120 for an espresso. They also plan to sell up to 30 types of coffee beans, starting from B230/250g, rising to B750/250g for something like the Ethiopia Drima Zede-Natural. Red Diamond’s mop-topped chief barista, Nicholas Haw, drops by on weekends.

8/17/18 6:38 PM

food & drink | taste test

Who makes Bangkok’s best... dark chocolate?

Locally-grown cocoa is finally having its time in the sun. Kad Kokoa just opened Bangkok’s first bean-to-bar cafe in Sathorn and chocolatiers are popping up everywhere to leave their mark on the city’s dessert scene. We’ve selected five chocolate bars (70 to 75-percent cocoa) that celebrate Thai beans from Chanthaburi to Chumphon—no mysterious chemicals or additives, just cocoa and sugar— and put them to a blind taste test. By BK Staff.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

Aimmika 72% (B220) A lighter shade of brown than the others, this bar also surprises with its physical lightness. Not so dense, the texture is smooth, almost creamy, but this chocolate still gives a satisfying snap when broken. A nice chocolatey aroma is offset by slightly bittersweet, raisin and red berry notes that some find overpowering.

Verdict: A binge-worthy bar.

Runner Up!

Shaba 70% (B95) This soft, wafer-thin bar will barely make a sound when you snap it and quickly melt if you’re not careful. To match the disarmingly shiny surface, your first bite delivers an almost overwhelming hit of sweetness.

Thankfully, this gives way to reveal some pretty nice orange blossom and red berry notes.

Verdict: Handle with care.

17

Kad Kokoa 70% (B250)

BK Pick!

Paradai 75% (B250)

With its smooth texture, lightest of cocoa aromas and alluring taste of roasted almond, this dark, dark brown bar is close to the complete package. Bittersweet but not sour, the chocolate gives off this little zing on the tongue that keeps you coming back for more, and the flavor lingers longer than others.

Verdict: A most sophisticated bar.

The shiny and even surface doesn’t tell the story of the dryness within. We like the initial nuttiness, but the subsequent sour plum notes detract from any chocolatey taste. The texture is not at all creamy.

Verdict: Small doses only.

Siamaya 75% (B160) This bar’s slightly burgundy color is topped off with a strong sheen and the absolute tiniest of air bubbles. What hits you first is the very sour smell, which is a good indication of the flavors within this super-soft bar. Sweet, leafy notes give way to a numbing sourness that leaves you with a dry mouth after you finish.

Verdict: Pucker up.

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8/17/18 6:38 PM

dining reviews

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

18

iO Osteria

Arabesque HHH

Egyptian. 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-656-9440.

Open daily 9am-2am. BTS Nana BB-BBB

For a taste of Cairo without having to travel, check out Arabesque, an Egyptian restaurant nestled towards the far end of Sukhumvit Soi 2. Inside, everything from the doors, windows and mirrors to the seats and pillars are decorated in arabesque patterns, all beneath dim lighting. There’s a relatively spacious outdoor dining area reserved primarily for drinkers and shisha-smokers. What distinguishes Egyptian cuisine from other Middle Eastern fare—say, Lebanese and Persian—is that it doesn’t rely on a huge amount of spices; instead, it is simpler, with a heavy emphasis on beans and vegetables, although here the food draws from across the region. To start off, the mixed mezze platter (B300) consists of green salad, mutabbal (grilled eggplant dip), hummus, tahina (creamy sesame dip) and baba ghanoush (pureed eggplant); the hummus and tahina are a little too sour, but still pair well with the freshly-baked pita bread. Among our favorite dishes are the murgh barra (B280)—large spiced chicken chunks grilled kebab-style, resulting in a crispy deep red crust and a juicy and ten-

Hot Spots

iO Osteria

is coming in October!

Reach affluent domestic travelers and visitors to Thailand in BK Magazine’s guide to the kingdom’s best new openings.

HHH

New for 2018! The Hot Spots website offers even more exposure to Thailand's travel audience.

Call: 02-624-9696 Email: advertising@asia-city.co.th

Hotspot_h/a_1/8_01.indd 1

Dining reviews_BK 745_Aug 24_18.indd 18

8/17/2561 BE 5:06 PM

Italian. 1/F, Groove at CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-117-3826. Open daily 11am-midnight.

BTS Chit Lom BB-BBB F

Italy’s osterias of old were modest places where simple food was served as an accompaniment to wine. True to these origins, iO Osteria is rustically outfitted, employing chalkboards, paper-placemat menus and shelves of bottles as decoration. Displayed out front, the day’s baked goods and freshly-made, Roman-style pizzas instantly set the place apart from Groove at CentralWorld’s “Wine-something-something” bistros. This pizzeria-slash-delicatessen comes from a Sicilian outfit with several restaurants around Singapore, and there’s genuine warmth to what they’re doing. Comparisons must be made to Pala, Asoke’s near-subterranean institution for pizza-by-the-slice. On recent showings, the newbie may come up trumps. The doughy stuff—bread, pastries and pizzas—is all made from scratch, and it shows, while the cheese, cold cuts and produce is mostly flown in from Italy. Like Pala, the pizza is prepared in massive slabs and served al taglio, or “by the cut” (from B110 for small, B180 for medium). With its crisp bite and charred, slightly sour edges, the breadlike crust here is the perfect alternative for any-

der interior—and the Egyptian barbecue fish (B400), which is cut in half, flattened, slathered in fresh herbs and spices, then grilled—perfect with biryani rice (B250). Another typical Egyptian dish, the fattah mozzah (B280), sees layers of crunchy bread and rice topped with tender cubes of lamb and a well-balanced vinegar and garlic sauce. Offering a refreshing break from the meat-and-carb-heavy meal, the fattoush salad (B130) is a mix of greens, pomegranate, chunks of tomato and cucumber, all tossed in pomegranate molasses for a sweet, tangy finish. There’s also a range of tagines on offer (tomato-based stews cooked in clay pots). Here, they wrap a thin layer of bread over the pot in place of a lid and bake it whole in the oven.

When you poke your spoon through the bread, you’re hit by a puff of aromatic spice before getting to the luscious, thick curry beneath—try the potato and chicken tagine (B250). Finish off with a plate of teeth-achingly sweet yet satisfying konafa (B190), a crisp pastry layered with nuts and honey, then soaked in syrup. As for drinks, the tangy and refreshing tamr hendi (tamarind juice, B100) and labban eiraan (Egyptian yogurt, B130) should be your go-tos.

With service that’s attentive and fast, the only real points against Arabesque are the overly dim lighting and the Arabic music blasting in the background.

one feeling bloated by the billowing Neapolitan pies seemingly all the rage. Splash out B580 and you’ll get to pick four toppings (or B720 for six) on as many slices, for which there’s no skimping on the produce: the spicy Milano salami and zinging tomato base in the diavola, the piquant cheeses in the cinque formaggi, the juicy marinated eggplant of the melanzane. For more heartwarming carbs, don’t deprive yourself of iO Osteria’s pasta, which is invariably rich and hearty. The orecchiette in pork sausage and saffron sauce (B350) calls for sharing, the sauce is so creamy and cheesy, while the garganelli with slow-braised lamb ragout (B340) delivers meat that falls apart at the nudge of a fork. Elsewhere on the menu are tiny but flavor-packed tapas bites, like the olive all’ascolana (pork-stuffed fried olives, B140)—crunchy, little salt bombs.

Of course, to wash it all down, there’s booze and plenty of it—house wines by the glass come out of large, tapped barrels, and start at B190, cocktails like bellini at B290 and negroni at B320. With its various counters and displays, and flamboyant but friendly service, iO Osteria is very much a jack of all trades (is it a pizzeria, deli, bakery or a bar?). A lot of fun can also be had ordering off-menu. A peek at the cake display confronts you with almost too much choice.

Beyond an excellently boozy pistachio tiramisu (B290), the pastiera Napoletana (B250) offers a ricotta-rich, citrusy end to the meal.

Ratings P Forget it PP Only if you’re in the neighborhood PPP A pleasant dining experience PPPP Not to be missed PPPPP Flawless

B BB BBB BBBB

Price guide Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Symbols Reservations recommended Parking Dress requirements Live music

H F E G

8/17/18 6:36 PM

drink

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 24, 2018

19

Alone Time

Bangkok’s best bars to avoid company.

By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj Changwon Express at Flow House Why: A beer bar perched above an urban surf park may not immediately strike you as the place to drink on your lonesome, but Changwon Express starts pouring glasses from 3pm, which is the perfect time to curl up with a book on the terrace while catching some rays—just like being on holiday at the beach.

The wipeouts below provide constant amusement, too.

The drinks: 20 out of the 30 taps are devoted to Thai craft brews. Try the owner’s refreshing Asoke Pale Ale (B200/330ml).

A-Square 26, 120/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 095445-1465. Open daily 5pm-midnight

Coastal Why: Set in the peaceful front garden of the Thai restaurant Kram on the back streets of Sukhumvit Soi 39, Coastal lets you laze on the grass like it’s your own mini park. Find a patch of turf, order some refreshments and forget about the world. (You can also order Kram’s delicious Thai food and Sarnies’ coffee while you’re there.)

The drinks: Coastal used to be solely a tiki cocktail bar but now they’ve added craft beer to the menu. All cocktails are priced at B280 but if you’re going to start drinking at 3pm, we suggest the Fresh Squeezed IPA (B380).

113 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 098-253-9356. Open Mon-Fri 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight

Duke Why: This Gaysorn gem opens early from 11am but what really sets it apart is the in-bar art gallery devoted to Thai talents. On a quiet day, you can just pop by to check out works

by Kriangkrai Kongkhanun and Sarakin KrueOn, glass of whiskey in hand. They’ve got art books for sale, too.

The drinks: Duke offers one of the biggest whiskey selections in Bangkok, with the list divided by region. One must-try is Michel Couvreur’s Clearach (B690/shot; B8,600/bottle), a French single malt whiskey aged in French cherry wood barrels for a sweet and flowery aroma.

1/F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 080-587-9520. Open daily 11am-midnight

Kangkao Why: This clandestine Old Town wine bar, tucked above Brown Sugar and below Ku Bar, is so hidden your friends won’t be able to track you down. Though it’s a little bit dark for reading, you can order up a glass (or bottle—why not?) while gazing out the window at the street scene and letting your thoughts run wild.

The drinks: Dedicated to everything natural wine, the list changes from week to week.

Prices tend to hover around B1,500-2,600 by the bottle and B300-380 by the glass. For a red, the Domaine Roche-Audran Côtes du Rhone 2015 (B320/glass) is so delicious that you’ll want to stick with it all night.

2/F, 469 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-067-6731. Open Wed-Sun 6pm-midnight

Salon Du Japonisant

Riedel Why: One of the perks of being located in a shopping mall, Riedel opens its doors to wine connoisseurs from 11am. The small, outdoor terrace boasts front-row views of CentralWorld and the general hubbub of Ratchadamri Road. When not overtaken by smokers, it’s a great spot in which to squeeze into a corner and watch daily life go by.

The drinks: One of Bangkok’s fanciest wine bars, they stock over 40 labels by the glass thanks to the use of state-of-the-art wine dispensers. Get the 2011 Produttori Del Barbaresco Asili Piedmont Italy for B780.

2/F, Gaysorn, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1133. Open daily 11am-midnight

Ryn Speakeasy Bar Why: Cutesy cafe culture meets speakeasy cool at this shop-house bar decked out like a 16-year-old girl’s bedroom. All those stuffed animals and cartoony decorations (plus maybe even a mattress on the floor) will take you back in time to when you were an angsty teenager. The only companion you need is the owner’s cheerful chihuahua, Khao Niew.

The drinks: Booze here comes in ice-cream form—five non-alcoholic (B80/scoop; B150 with a 15ml shot), five made with liquor (B150/scoop; B220 with 15ml shot)—with a suggested alcohol pairing. The Tin Tin Gin Gin,

Coastal

for example, is gin and raspberry ice cream (think fruity sorbet with a touch of juniper) served with a half shot of gin.

2/6 Sukhumvit Soi 34, 095-151-9914. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight

Salon Du Japonisant Why: From the outside, this corner shophouse has all the old-world charm of your Japanese friend’s home. Don’t be intimidated by the unmarked door (for bearings, look for the neighboring Hanakaruta)—inside, the dramatic lighting and wall bearing a parade of labels provide a setting in which to lose yourself. Prepare to be mesmerized by the bartender Kei Sawada’s next-level cocktail techniques.

The drinks: Classics with a twist, made with Japanese precision and delicacy. Get their gin and tonic (B380), which features Ki No Bi Kyoto Dry Gin, a drop of elderflower syrup, Fever Tree elderflower tonic, soda water and an olfactory bouquet of six herbs as the garnish.

Kei begins his G&Ts with a “Japanese style of cooling the glass”—essentially, ice and water first and a quick stir before any of the heavy-duty stuff is added.

36/5 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 083-019-9062. Open Mon-Sat 6:30pm-midnight

HOT TABLE

Put Lao bar-slashrestaurant Funky Lam on your Thonglor agenda

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The buzz: Full-flavored Lao recipes and an old-school funk soundtrack combine at the noir-industrial dining room of Sanya Souvanna Phouma (Bed Supperclub, Maggie Choo’s, Sing Sing and Cactus) and fellow Laotian business partner Saya Na Champassak’s latest venture The decor: Taking over the space of breezy brunch cafe Luka Moto once night falls, Funky

Lam’s rattan window shades block the outside world as the space throws out some very moody lighting.

The coffee counter transforms into a cocktail bar complete with the neon mantra: “Keep the Funk Alive.”

Head upstairs for slightly more privacy, where you can watch the kitchen staff hard at work, augmented by random, colorful graphics projected over the walls.

The food: This is Lao food, made with lots of Lao ingredients, that’s not afraid of real-deal, bold flavors—pla ra (fermented fish) included. Dishes like kaipen (B190), a starter of fried Mekong river-weed served with three types of spicy dips are drawn from the owners’ Laotian upbringing. The refreshing feu kra dook seen (B450) plays on Vietnamese pho and the French classic pot au feu for a soup that

offers roasted bone marrow and broth with sliced raw wagyu beef, herbs and loads of onions. Fans of Isaan food will find plenty of familiarity in larb ped (B350), a zingy, herbal minced duck salad, and the tam mak hoong puu tord (B260), a salad of thinly sliced ribbons of papaya, local multicolored cherry tomatoes and fermented fish, topped with crisp tempura soft-shell crab.

The drinks: All those funky flavors call for a sharp, punchy cocktail (or three). Order the Salt & Pepper Margarita (Cimarron Blanco tequila, agave syrup, fresh lime and grapefruit juice, B280) and you may well finish it before you realize. Just as easy to down is the Lazy Sour (B320), a whiskey sour with an Asian twist of tamarind syrup.

The music: Old-school molam meets modern beats. Choltanutkun Tunatiruj and Megan Leon

The Taste Thonglor, 235 Thonglor Soi 11, 02-050-0469. Open Wed-Sun 6-11:30pm; Mon 6-11:30pm

8/17/18 5:00 PM

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