BK Magazine 664 November 4, 2016

In Remembrance of His Majesty

King Bhumibol Adulyadej FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2016

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lida thavorn,

ittikul

page 3 What We’ve Learned 4 bites

Rising Stars 5 escapes

8 fashion

Soak It Up

Colorful Collab 10 bites

11 bites

Well Dressed

Restaurant Reviews

12 bites

14 BK Now

Gone Wandering

What’s On

Who's in charge?

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon Editor in Chief / Product Director Grégoire Glachant Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan Staff Writers Natcha Sanguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont Branded Content Associate Sureepak Janyapat Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Junior Writers Theerada Moonsiri, Earn Saenmuk, Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designers Chantich Kongchanmitkul, Peeraya Sirathanisa Junior Graphic Designers Wariya Whangwaewklang, Parida Ritthiron Content Designer Saranya Laowtrakul

Where to find us!

The Asia City Media Group

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem, Onwara Sittirug Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri, Amarit Jinaya Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai

Contributor Kathy MacLeod

Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Project Coordinator Nutnicha Nuttanakorn IT Manager Takrit Jitjaroen

Asia City Media Group

Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Administrator Yaovaluck Srisermsri Accountant Manita Bangmoung

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Interns Gunticha Pangsalae, Warunya Litthisri, Tessa Domzalski, Waratchaya Boonket Cover Art by Panita Thiraphapong

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BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 51 times a year, every Friday of each month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

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A checklist of BK Magazine’s most important discoveries this week Godiva is here and there’s no soft-serve (yet) The Belgian chocolate brand with 90 years of expertise has been treating its customers around the world to silky smooth soft-serve ice cream. But not here in Bangkok, where we still have to wait despite the first Bangkok Godiva branch opening in CentralWorld just last weekend. Go for the usual truffles, biscuits and chocolate drinks, just don’t expect to find ice cream until the end of the year.

Huy Fong’s Sriracha is coming to Thailand We all know what Sriracha is. But in the US, they somehow believe it was invented by a Vietnamese guy in Cali and is pronounced Sri-rahrr-cha. Now, the hipster-baiting, bao-spicening California-born condiment that our Stateside friends swear by for its punchier, less-sweet chili flavor is coming to Bangkok. A new Facebook page called Sriracha.Sauce.Thailand promises us the green-topped sauce from Huy Fong Food Inc. any time soon.

Price TBA. Another Bangkok bar got raided This time it was Charan Sanitwong’s home of hippie backpackers, The Overstay, which was raided by “100 members of mixed Thai soldiers, DEA, tourist police and regular police” last Friday, according to the hostel-bar’s Facebook page. The whole place and everyone inside got searched for drugs and the owner was arrested. It’s the latest in a series of raids that have affected everyone from Thonglor hi-sos (Beam) to Bangkok’s Ethiopian community (Habesha). Is no one in this town safe?

If you can’t sell your rice for a good price, sell fertilizer instead Thailand faces a major economic crisis due to a slump in rice prices. This doesn’t bother deputy PM Gen Prawit Wongsuwan, though. When not racking up B15,000-a-head noodle bills on flights to Hawaii, he’s happy to dish out economic tips on farming. His advice: go sell fertilizer instead. Nice. Maybe you can find some land to do it on a mountain with the Bangkokians who don’t like floods. Or on Mars with the rubber farmers. Or you could just sell your product online direct to consumers, as many farmers have been doing. Go them!

Your Pokemon Go character can wear a black ribbon, too Niantic Labs, developers of the hit smartphone game, have created a feature that allows you to pin a black ribbon to the clothes of your Pokemon Go trainer. Update to the latest version of the app and simply toggle through the shirt options—a black ribbon option will appear.

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BK Magazine November 4, 2016

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cover story

Rising Restaurant Stars Meet the young culinary minds behind some of Thailand’s most exciting new kitchens.

By Natcha Sanguankiattichai

Weerawat Triyasenawat, 38

Napol Jantraget, 33 Napol opened 80/20 just before the end of last year, surprising diners with exceptionally prepared, creative food that highlights local ingredients. He takes inspiration from his Canadian culinary training, especially his stint at Creme Brasserie, an unpretentious, ingredients-led French bistro in Toronto. His debut restaurant in Bangkok began as a cannery, selling pickles, but now dishes out food which sticks to the mantra of 80-percent local ingredients with 20-percent saved for creative flexibility. Napol likes to use a minimal number of ingredients in each dish, and plays with Western cooking methods while embracing Thai produce. His interpretation of pasta, for example, is made from red sticky rice dumpling, while in place of cheese, he uses cured egg yolk. Stay tuned for his new smokehouse project, which he hopes to launch in the next few months. Napol’s chef’s table is now available for 8 diners a night at B1,200-2,000 80/20. 1058 Charoenkrung Rd., 087-593-1936. MRT Hua Lamphong. www.fb.com/8020bkk

Though his culinary journey didn’t begin until he was 30, Weerawat has made a big impression among in-the-know Thai diners, even from the far-flung culinary regions of Udon Thani.

Equipped with training from the one-Michelin-starred Commonwealth in San Francisco, Weerawat takes local wisdom to the next level by combining native Isaan ingredients with modern cooking techniques. His creations include cross-regional Thai fusion dishes like Northern- and Southern-style curry combinations while his take on a local vegetable salad features overlooked vegetables alongside a cucumber-salad gel and fermented fish-coconut milk dressing. He’s a serious local produce nerd, working with farmers to develop new ingredients, like a crossbreed of wild-boar-andpig meat he’s currently excited about.

Samuay and Sons. 133/25 Ponepisai Rd., 086-3096685, 083-056-0380. Udon Thani. www.fb.com/ samuaynsons

Phanuphon Bulsuwan, 34 Chiang Mai resident Phanuphon is one of the busiest chefs around. At his chef’s table restaurant, Blackitch Artisan Kitchen, he serves Asian-inspired food that doesn’t stick to any rulebook. Local ingredients play a big role in Phanuphon’s cooking, as do fermentation, umami flavors and artful presentation. Though self-taught, he’s been around food his whole life, growing up in the kitchen of his relative’s restaurant in Chachoengsao. The former engineer now also works on university research projects into innovative food (like Japanese-style curing techniques for Thai egg roe), and will even compete at Chiang Mai Design Awards next year. With his pastry chef wife, he also runs Fat Bastard food truck in Bangkok, Charm culinary workshop in Chiang Mai, and will open Krbb, a butcher concept, this November. To dine at Blackitch, advance reservation is required. Prices start from B1,500 per person, for 1-12 diners.

Blackitch. Nimmanhemin Soi 7, 084-323-1952. www.fb.com/blackitch Fat Bastard. www.fb.com/fatbastardfoodtruck

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cover story Phunchita Kamonto, 38

After living in Melbourne for 16 years, Punchita returned home and brought back with her a bag full of inspiration from the Down Under cafe culture. Over a year ago, she opened Baba Eating House in her hometown, Pattaya, introducing the town to Australian-inspired cafe cuisine like smashed avocado. Her latest project at Wanderlust cafe in Bangkok’s Chinatown follows on the same path. Drawing on her melting-pot of cultural experiences, she creates fun flavor combinations in dishes like her chicken stock-cooked polenta­—a burst of spicy, umami and tart flavors thanks to chorizo, braised mushrooms and poached pear. She’s also planning to open an organic farm and community vegetable patch where people can plant their own vegetables in her garden.

Chatin Dienel, 28

Baba Eating House. 571/21 Moo 5, Naklua, Banglamung, Pattaya. www.fb.com/ babaeatinghouse Wanderlust. 149-151 Rama 4 Rd., 089-757-7770. www.fb.com/onederlust

This Phuket-hailing, German-Thai chef backed up his Le Cordon Bleu training with experience in London’s notoriously tough kitchens—from chef de partie at Soho power-lunch special Gauthier, to sous chef at French brasserie Cafe a Vin. On returning to Thailand, he got the head chef spot at the shortlived 661 steakhouse on Silom, before catching the attention of Sapparot group. With them, he took a leading role with the Rocket chain of cafes, designing the menu (which includes the infamous Rocket’s Benedict) and launching its Rocket X concept.

Now though he’s left the brand to return to Phuket and prepare for the launch of an international luxury hotel, where he’ll start a new culinary journey.

Pichaya Utarntharm, 27 Pichaya left her communication arts studies to enroll in Le Cordon Bleu Dusit, after which she grabbed a spot in the kitchens of chef Herve Frerard’s Le Beaulieu, once the top French restaurant in Bangkok. In 2012, she competed in the Young Talent Trophy of the Great Escoffier International Competition, winning the Asia round and coming runner-up in the global finals in France.

Pichaya then moved to America, graduating from the prestigious Culinary Institute of America before entering the kitchen of New York’s renowned, Michelin-starred Jean George. Now back in Bangkok, she works as a private chef, whether from her own home on Sukhumvit or from clients’ kitchens.

Cooking for groups of 6-10 diners, she offers a chef’s table experience big on French cuisine techniques with the occasional flavor twist. Her cold angel hair with crab and truffle, for example, features Champagne vinegar and kaffir lime syrup. Reservations for The Table by Chef Pam require a minimum of six diners and cost from B2,500 per person. www.instagram.com/the.table.bychefpam

5 Masterminds behind Bangkok's fabulous sweet TREAts

RARIN TUMWATTANA, 28, GUSS DAMN GOOD

CAROL BOOSABA, 37, PARIS MIKKI

SIRITORN CHAROENSUK, 27, MATCHA TEN

CHAMP PHANICHKUL, 36, PATISSERIE ROSIE

AMIGA SRI-ISARAPORN, 25, LITTLE HIDEOUT

The proprietor/ice-cream maker of this year's hottest ice cream holds an MBA from Boston, where she took inspiration from the prosperous ice-cream scene to create her own fabulous flavors. Stay tuned as she’s launching the first permanent store soon.

Having lived and trained in Paris for almost 10 years, including stints at Angelina and Laduree, the chef specializes in the classic French pastry.

Her croissants won "Bangkok's best" in our blind taste test

Previously with the defunct Let Them Eat Cake, Tenyuu’s head pastry chef travelled to Japan to taste some of the world's best desserts before making her own versions of the most delicious.

Aiming to make French-inspired pastries favor Thai palates, Champ tweaks his desserts to be lighter and less sweet while still using premium imported ingredients like flour, butter, Valrhona chocolate and yuzu.

The graphic designer-turned-pastry chef uses her creativity and art skills to make oh-so-cute and detailed pastries, with several layers of different textures.

Get this: The flakey, crispy and notoverly-sweet millefeuille

Get this: The shaved mineral-water kakigori topped with a fluffy cream of your choice.

Get this: The yuzu tart that features yogurt mousse instead of meringue

Get this: Milk ice-cream lover? Go for Don’t Give Up #18. Sorbet monster?

Virgin Umeshu!

1/F, Metha Wattana, 27 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 088-870-0020. BTS Asok

www.fb.com/gussdamngood

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66 Sathorn Soi 6, 02-632-2559

113/2 Thonglor 10, 092-542-9900

Get this: Buche, a combination of chocolate hazelnut mousse, dark chocolate cremeux and almond streusel. Note that cakes are only available on weekend 172 Chim Phli Rd., 081-821-8795

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escapes ESCAPE ROUTES

By Monruedee Jansuttipan

PATTAYA

Onsen Escape Bangkok’s first full-scale onsen is capitalizing on its surging popularity (seriously, don’t visit on Sunday afternoon) by opening a branch by the beach. With its separate men’s and women’s zones, and zen-inspired decor, Yunomori Onsen & Spa Pattaya (Thepprasit Rd., between soi 9 and 11, 038-197-038, www.yunomorionsen.com) is a familiar sight for Bangkok fans—only it’s three times the size. Other perks include a sauna in the female zone (which Bangkok sadly lacks) and an all-new “silk bath,” whose tiny bubbles create better buoyancy and are said to help relieve aches and pains. All the water comes from Kanchanaburi’s reputed Wat Wangkanai Tayikaram hot springs. Unlimited onsen is B450 from 9am-midnight. Try a signature massage (B1,550), which combines Thai and Japanese techniques, or the 3.5-hour program that includes onsen, body scrub, aroma and herbal compress at B2,850.

Yachts and Fireworks Two big events are set for Pattaya this month. The 5th Ocean Marina Pattaya Boat Show (090-909-7469, oceanmarinapattayaboatshow.com) on Nov 24-27 will showcase more than 1,000 international yachts at Ocean Marina Pattaya. Superyacht brands in attendance will include Admiral, Azimut Yachts, Monte Carlo Yachts, Beneteau and Cranchi. Unlike other shows in the region, visitors can check out the vessels up close and even take a test drive should they get the impulse. There is no entrance fee. Happening at the same time is the annual International Fireworks event on Nov 25-26 at Pattaya Bay. To catch the action, Hilton Pattaya (038-253-000, bit.ly/1pbC77J) is offering hot seats at its various outlets (Edge, Sundeck, Drift and Horizon) with dinner and buffet deals starting at B2,950 from 6-11pm.

HUA HIN

Into the Blue After a bit of a delay, one of the biggest hotel projects of the year, Radisson Blu Hua Hin (032-421-777, goo.gl/WU9zHR), is now open. A stunning, twostory-tall waterfall greets guests at the lobby, while a walkway flanked by giant walls of water topped by elevated swimming pools (privy only to the 22 Deluxe pool access rooms) leads to the beach. Elsewhere, the hotel shows its Thai cultural credentials through a 14-meter-wide blue-and-white tiled depiction of a traditional kan mak (Thai wedding procession). For all-day dining, there’s the brasserie beside the lobby called The Exchange where they serve breakfast, while down on the beachfront is a grill called The Ivy. Opening rates for the lowest category of their 118 rooms start at B4,080.

VIETNAM

Head to Hanoi With Vietnamese low-cost airline VietJet offering great promotional tickets between Bangkok and Hanoi, here’s a new hotel to check out on your next visit. Novotel Suite Hanoi (bit.ly/2eLK0Bo) is the Novotel brand’s first serviced apartment complex in the Asia-Pacific, comprising 87 studios and 64 one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments ranging from 48-104 sq meters. However, the mod cons come with a catch: a location in the new office district of Cau Giay, about a 30-minute drive from Hanoi's Old Quarter.

Room rates start from US$99 (B3,484). VietJet’s Bangkok-Hanoi flights start from B3,848 for a round trip.

FREE DOWNLOAD! WHERE Hot Spots 2016 covers the hottest new openings in Bangkok, Hua Hin, Phuket, Koh Samui, Krabi and Chiang Mai. Get your free copy today at bkmagazine.com/hotspots2016.

BK Magazine Friday, November 4, 2016

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avenue

BEAUTY

Permanent Fixture Known for its daring approach to color and affordable prices, NYX Professional Makeup has long been a favorite in Bangkok. The brand’s latest branch at Siam Paragon is one of its biggest yet, boasting more than 1,000 items in every color imaginable— including new must-haves like the velvet matte lipstick (B295) and NYX Loves LA eyeshadow set (B875). This centrally located branch is home to NYX Beauty Bar for you to try out new looks, and will also hold exclusive classes by celebrity makeup artists and new product launches. The best part? No more braving the sun and queues at Eve and Boy across the road to get your NYX fix. 1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-684-3089. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.fb.com/nyxcosmeticsth

TECH

Hello Moto Motorola’s latest inventions, Moto Z and Moto Z Play, have finally arrived in Thailand. At just 5.2mm thick, the Moto Z (B23,900) is being touted as the world’s thinnest “premium” smartphone.

Even with this slender design, the phone packs cool features like a 2K quality display, 13MP F 1.8 back camera and TurboPower that charges the phone within 15 minutes (for eight hours usage). The Moto Z Play is a slight downgrade in terms of design, processing and screen resolution, but comes at a more affordable B15,900.

Both models are compatible with Moto Mods, magnetized addons that can transform your phone into a movie projector, boombox and more. Available at True Shop, Jay Mart, TG Fone and leading IT stores nationwide.

FASHION

Bangkok Jungle It’s that time of year again when fashionistas get excited about H&M’s annual designer collaboration. Last year’s collection flew off the hangers thanks in large part to the pouty presence of the “Balmain Army.” Since this year’s collaboration with Kenzo was announced a few months back, we’ve been seeing a lot of the Japanese-French high fashion brand’s colorful animal-striped onesies, leaving us to ponder, would we actually wear any of this? But fear not, the Kenzo x H&M collection is finally here and these colorful, yet subtle, pieces are also worth queueing for. Winter items like bomber jackets, coats, sweaters, beanies and boots bear lots of the animal prints and tiger logos that Kenzo Takada has become known for, while quirky dresses carry a hint of bright florals and kimono silhouettes. Meanwhile, accessories tote bags, caps, earrings and super-funky visor sunglasses ooze Kenzo’s ‘70-80s Jungle Paris vibe. The collection hits stores this Nov 3 (Siam Paragon and CentralWorld branches only) with prices starting from B499 for a pair of patterned tabi socks and rising as high as B13,999 for a denim down leather jacket or a pile-lined leather jacket.

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TECH

All Action Sony has released its most advanced action camera yet. The Sony FDR-X3000R shoots in 4K (and 1080p/120fps for slow-motion video) with a new lens that promises little to no distortion and clearer images even in motion with low light across three settings: wide, medium and close-up. The new camera is equipped with Wi-Fi and a live stream option, allowing you to broadcast to social media real-time and send media to your mobile phone. You can also access some settings through the Play Memories Mobile smartphone app. The stereo mic is designed to reduce wind noise, while the waterproof case helps you take the camera as far as 60m under the water. Priced at B21,990; add the live view remote kit for an extra B1,190. Available at Power Buy outlets nationwide and my.sony.co.th.

BK Magazine Friday, November 4, 2016

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REALLY THAI

Angkang Military Base

Tea Field

Nor Lae Village

Royal Resort

His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s Northern agricultural projects has developed into a beautiful tourist destination in the mountains.

I

n a bid to rid Northern Thailand’s hillside regions of opium fields, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej founded what has become known as the Royal Projects in Doi Angkang in 1969. Utilizing the region’s cool climate, His Majesty’s plan for farmers to grow high-value, low-yield native crops like peaches has become a national success story. Almost 50 years later, the valley is a thriving tourist attraction, replete with beautiful gardens and fruit plantations. Here’s everything you need to know to visit this remarkable area of the country.

Farm Route

Cultural Route

Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station is where the Royal Projects first began. On the 2.2-kilometer ring road around the station, you can hop out and visit plantations where they grow various kinds of cool weather fruits such as pears, peaches, strawberries, persimmon, kiwi fruit, pomegranate and blueberries. Don’t miss the Japanese apricot plot, where apricot trees dot a lush green carpetlike field. For flower lovers, this is paradise, especially during DecJan, when the English Rose Garden and Bonsai Garden are in full bloom. When the afternoon arrives, a visit to the Tea Storage is a must, where you can ride by mule around the fields—contact the station in advance at 053-450-107/9, www.angkhangstation.com.

The real good news is that now’s the perfect time of year to see the Japanese sakura blossom, which comes out in late November, unlike the praya suekrong (Thai cherry blossom), which blooms in late December or early January.

There are three main villages where visitors can get a glimpse of the local hill tribe culture, the most popular being Nor Lae village.

The villagers belong to the Palong or Dara-ang tribes and are the main people responsible for growing the produce at Angkhang station. The Nor Lae military base sits on the hill above the village, providing another panoramic view of Myanmar’s mountains. Next stop, Khob Dong village's, home to the Mu Ser Dam tribe who live here in bamboo houses dotting the hill. The slightly more developed Ban Luang village, meanwhile, is a Yunnan settlement to which a lot of Chinese migrated during WWII.

Food Route You don’t need to search far and wide for good food at the Royal Agricultural Station. Head to Angkhang Club for a true taste of the valley with a long list of dishes ranging from hill tribe specialties to produce from the Royal Projects. Their kha moo with man tou (braised pork with fried Chinese bun, B100) is particularly delicious, as is the nam prik Angkhang (B80), a dipping sauce made using the hill tribes’ fermented soy bean paste recipe. Salads are also highly recommended thanks to ingredients picked fresh from the station. Other dining options require a bit of exercise, but if you head to Ban Luang Village you can try the tasty khao soi (curry noodles) made in the Yunnan style at Ali (053-969-431, 081-022-6570). The soup here is clearer and not as thick as the typical Northern version. Their salapao (stuffed Chinese bun) with black bean is an adventurous dessert you have to try.

Brought to you by TAT

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Strawberry Field

Sunrise Route There are many spots to catch the sunrise, the easiest to reach being the Angkhang Military Base, near the camping point on the way to Nor Lae village. Choose from the wooden terrace at the military compound or the small hill at the camping point. After watching the sun come up, stretch your legs on the 30-minute Nor Lae trekking route, which offers great views of the mountains over in Myanmar. Another perfect way to spend the morning is by paying a visit to the strawberry fields and tea fields of the 2000 Plantation—nothing like a view of a misty mountainside to start the day. You can also spot mountains carpeted with rhododendron some 4.5 kilometers from the station.

Essentials WHERE TO STAY Angkhang Station Guesthouse Cozy accommodation is offered on-site at the station for two to five people per room. 053-450-107/9, www.angkhangstation.com

Ali

Angkhang Nature Resort Owned by the Royal Project Foundation but run by hoteliers, the res or t sits in front of the station. As the weather gets pretty cold in the winter, the hotel is equipped with electric blankets. Rates start from B3,000 for a mountain view room and B3,500 for a garden view. 053-450-110, bit.ly/16nQ6MH

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bites & blends

DOWNLOAD BEST EATS 2016 FOR FREE And discover Bangkok's best casual restaurants. bkmagazine.com/besteats

CAFE

Cheese Paradise Hot on the heels of Hokkaido’s Bake, there’s a new Japanese cheese tart condender in town.

Introducing Osaka’s Pablo. Since launching around two years ago, this pudding-like tart in a flaky, buttery shell has been lauded as one of its hometown’s must-try treats, causing some pretty lengthy queues. Now it's Bangkok's turn. On top of the classic cheese tart with its subtle apricot glaze (B415/full tart), which you can also have by the slice with coffee or tea (dine-in only, B160), you can try a string of special flavors like matcha and the totally delectable, totally gooey chocolate (B475 each). However, we're slightly more partial to the creamier and cheesier mini tarts available in two flavors: plain (B75) and matcha (B90).

Don't miss the cheese soft-serve (B90), either.

G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam.

GUEST CHEFS

CAFE

NEW CHEF

Taste of Japan

What’s in Fashion

Star Chaser

Through Nov 13, Westin Grande’s Japanese restaurant Kisso welcomes guest chefs Kimihiro Nakata (of Sheraton Hokkaido Kiroro) and Kazuoro Takanashi (of The Kiroro, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel) from Hokkaido, who bring with them some of the best ingredients from the region. While Nakata specializes in delectable kaiseki (tasting menus) using produce like abalone, sea urchin and deep-water shrimps, Takanashi masters in edomae-style sushi, as shown in his skilled fish handling and marination. Together, the two present an eight-course Hokkaido kaiseki menu (B3,500), comprising dishes like steamed abalone with lightly grilled sea urchin, yuba (bean curd skin)-wrapped king crab tempura and assorted sushi. Westin Grande Sukhumvit, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-207-8000

After parting ways with Rocket, Central Embassy's flagship fashion store Siwilai has filled the sizeable coffee-shop void with its own Siwilai Cafe. The kitchen is helmed by New Zealand chef Blair Mathieson (previously of Quince), who maintains the focus on brunch and cafe bites. Avid foodies who attended last month's Courageous Bangkok event might have got a sneak peek of the menu in the form of the flavorful cured salmon with beetroot, green apple, dill creme fraiche (available here at B350). Other highlights include shakshuka (baked eggs with tomato sauce, B300) and the club sandwich with grilled chicken and Sriracha mayo (B320). On top of coffee and smoothies, there are cocktails created by the Sugar Ray team. 5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5836. BTS Phloen Chit

La Scala has a new chef. Tuscan-born David Tamburini helmed the Michelin-starred Ristorante Casa Grugno in Taormina and La Gazza Ladra del Palazzo Failla Hotel in Modica. Now he aims to restore La Scala to its former glory. Take the polipo e patata (B850), which features grilled and sauteed octopus alongside what looks like a baked potato—only when you cut it open you're confronted with oozing whipped potato. His newly-launched menu also includes the pretty chicken liver and foie gras pate on brioche (B750), and spaghetti cooked in grilled eggplant water with ricotta cheese and Sicilian date tomatoes (B680). The updated pizza menu takes a more classic direction, though fans of the restaurant’s renowned sandwich pizza schiacciatina (B790) will still find it. The Sukhothai Bangkok, 13/3 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888

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bites FOOD REVIEWS

Little Bao HHHH Chinese. G/F, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392- 6922. Open Sun-Thu 6pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 6pm-2am. BBB F

Opened in 2012, Little Bao in Hong Kong is credited with helping kickstart the global trend for Chinese bao burgers. To this day the 20-seat diner commands queues for chef May Chow’s playful, fast food-inspired take on traditional Chinese fare. This first foreign outpost for the brand, tucked on the ground floor of Thonglor’s 72 Courtyard dining complex, shares much the same cool and casual vibe, as projected from the neon-lit smiling baby logo out front. Inside has all the kitsch appeal of a Hong Kongstyle diner, thanks to upright wooden seats, metal bar stools, open kitchen and candy-color palette of green and pink. The star bao buns are split in half, buttered and griddled, then stuffed with one of four fillings imported from the Hong Kong branch: pork belly, crispy Sichuan chicken, fish tempura and shiitake tempeh (B260 each). Chowing down on the delicious pork belly bao, there’s no doubting Little Bao’s reputation: the succulent braised pork is

The House on Sathorn HHHH

Western. 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. Open daily 6-10:30pm. BBBB F

Creative, entertaining and well-executed, The House on Sathorn’s Dining Room manages to get away with what initially seem like some unforgivable pretensions.

The menu begins with a note from the restaurant’s head chef (sorry, “culinary director”), Fatih Tutak, in which he instructs you to “experience the message of each dish with all your senses.” Right. You then get a list of dish names with a fondness for the first person—“Back to my Origins” (Turkish manti/eggplant/tomato/ kaymak), “On My Way Home to Silom” (banana/toffee/snow). It’s a bit clumsy but the frenetic burst of culinary ideas plucked from all around the world—a taste of Tokyo’s Michelin-star kitchens here, a nod to Istanbul street food there—are not j u st s p e c t a c l e. A s w i t h a l l s u c h experimental kitchens, some dishes do go a bit too far. “If You Try to Make Risotto All About the Sea,” for example, is but an oyster atop sea grape stems cut up to look like rice. Equally over-hyped, the “onion

slathered in hoisin ketchup, sprinkled with shiso leek salad and sesame dressing, and jammed between a soft, fluffy white bun.

It’s an explosion of tastes that, frankly, the other bao options struggle to match. But while these trendy, tiny handfuls take the limelight, we’re actually more impressed with the hot and cold sharing plates. The cold, smoked eggplant salad (B240) features a delicious interplay between chili garlic miso, yogurt, pine nuts and shiso.

The fried cauliflower (B220), coated in caramelized fish sauce, is sweet yet spicy, crunchy and still relatively guilt-free. Not so the truffle fries (B320), a fusion hit that mixes tempeh nuttiness with creamy mayo. Amid such rich flavors we appreciate the drunken clams (B360), whose mellow miso broth is peppery and heartwarming owing to a liberal dose of Shaoxing rice wine. Dessert is limited but that hardly matters, as the golden-fried ice-cream bao (try the salted caramel, B140) arguably upstage their savory counterparts. As for drinks, the syrup-heavy cocktails, served in plastic tumblers, keep to concept. Chrys’ Lemonade (B320) is a mix of Cana Brava rum, chrysanthemum, honey and lemon that’s not too sweet and might bring to mind your grandma’s iced tea. Even in Bangkok , Little Bao is not alone in fetishizing retro Chinese flavors (see Chairman, Bao & Buns, Xiao Chi), but it’s both the most fun and the most rewarding.

ash” on the duck breast dish labeled “Hunting” just tastes like dust. Nor does it do much for the underseasoned duck it’s served with. In nearly all else, though, dinner here knocks it out of the park. You’d hope so too, given the prices: eight courses for B3,600, six courses for B2,600, or a vegetarian five-course set for B2,300. On our last visit, we opted for the six-course set, which kicks off with two delicious amuse bouches: a creamy hit of mackerel pate disguised as a mini ice-cream cone and a dollop of sea urchin on dashi-style, salty egg custard. More Japanese influences show themselves in the course of raw tuna. Two gloriously fatty chunks of maguro tuna sit on a creamy avocado puree flavored with a hint of green tea, capped off with a spoonful of intense, truffle-infused caviar. The two courses which draw from Tutak’s Turkish origins are also highly satisfying. One is nothing more than a blanched whole tomato, topped with a sharp layer of beetroot jelly and accompanied by creamy ezine sheep’s milk cheese and a parsley granita. The flavors mesh beautifully, as is the case with his take on a manti dumpling—rich, slightly smoky from the eggplant filling and perfectly paired with a dense, Middle Eastern cream called kaymak. All this comes served in a 19th century dining room that’s one of the most beautiful spaces in town—all rich bordeaux leathers and parquet floors. House on Sathorn is inventive, unique, casual yet still special— or, to channel our inner Tutak, a true “sensory culinary experience.”

Ratings

Price guide

PPPP Forget it PPPP Only if you’re in the neighborhood PPPP A pleasant dining experience PPPP Not to be missed

B BB BBB BBBB

BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

WORK WITH US

Symbols

H Reservations recommended F Parking available E Dress requirements G Live music

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bites

OPEN DOOR

Wanderlust A new design hotel brings hipster brunch to Chinatown.

The buzz: Phuket’s 2W hostel group has brought its chic bed and breakfast concept to Bangkok’s Chinatown—and unlike at so many tourist haunts, the owners here take the breakfast part very seriously at the downstairs cafe.

The decor: Designed by Harvester Design Studio, the minimal space speaks to hipsters with its raw cement walls, floor and bar, loft-like industrial furnishings and splashes of greenery. The kitchen sits behind a glass screen right next to the coffee bar, meaning you can watch both the barista meticulously preparing drip coffee and the cooks hard at work. Floor-to-ceiling windows allow plenty of natural light.

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The food: Chef Phunchita Kamonto (one of our top young chefs in the country, see page 3) lived in Melbourne for more than 15 years and takes inspiration from the city’s cafe culture in simple dishes like smashed avocado on toast (B220) and the breakfast plate (egg, sausage, bacon, tomato, mushroom, hash and toast, B280). Where the chef really shines is in adding her own twists to the likes of chia pudding (B160), which here features coconut milk and tropical fruits, and the skillet pancake (B180), which mixes the Dutch-style crispy baby pancake with America's thicker, fluffier interpretation. More intricate flavors can be tasted in dishes like soft polenta (B250) topped with braised mushrooms, chorizo and poached pear, and the eight-hour-braised pulled beef burger (B240), which features a nice kick from Cajun spices.

The drinks: Coffee beans are sourced from a Chiang Mai roaster. On top of espresso (B70) and drip coffee (B100), you can also find creations like The Metro (espresso with tonic and orange juice, B120), Ready Cocoa (cocoa, frozen banana, coconut and roasted coconut, B140) and avocado smoothie (B140).

Why you should care: Located not far from Chinatown's rising hipster hub of Soi Nana, Wanderlust’s interestingly flavored brekkie dishes are an easy excuse to again wander these picturesque streets. Natcha Sanguankiattichai 149-151 Rama 4 Rd., 089-757-7770. Open daily 8am-6pm. MRT Hua Lamphong. www.fb.com/onederlust

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Vapor

Flair

Thammada

TABLE TALK

NEW AND NOTED

Extra Ordinary It’s all about homemade crafts and food at Ari's new cozy cafe.

The humbly named Thammada (65 Phahonyothin Soi 5, 081804-4759), meaning "ordinary" in Thai, gathers the owner's friends’ craft pieces, including scarves, bags, postcards, soaps and socks, while also providing space to sit and eat some comfort food. Opt for roast chicken (B165) or roast pork ribs (B175), served with either rice or a side salad, and wash it all down with Sawanbondin tea from Chiang Mai (B55).

Extra Flair Thaniya Building's cute coffee counter Flair has just branched out to another Silom office building (United Center, Silom Rd. BTS Sala Daeng). The second branch remains little more than a coffee corner but boasts a totally different look owing to a modern blue color scheme and neon signage. Thankfully, you can still expect good coffee just the way they serve it at Thaniya, plus a

bigger variety of baked items like rolls from Skinny Bites (B66) and lunch boxes (B66). Espresso starts from B50. Try a concoction like sparkling orange (espresso, orange juice and tonic, B70).

Grill Porn It’s all about the big, charcoal-grilled prawns at Vapor (Nichada Thani, 02-832-0055), a seafood restaurant that overlooks the lake in expat-y Nichada Thani. Owner/bartender Natakorn "Thumb" Changrew, best known as the guy behind the bar at Bunker and previously of Perfume, wanted to create a new go-to destination for Thai seafood lovers. On top of the aforementioned sexy river prawns with their deliciously runny head fat (market price), you can expect the likes of fried whole sea bass with fish sauce (B390), steamed seafood with curry paste served in coconut (B285) and tom yum kung (from B130). Of course, there are also signature cocktails by the owner coming in at a tidy B200. Natcha Sanguankiattichai

The Deck Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Phatu Nokyung, Maharaj Rd., 02-221-9158/9. Open Mon-Thu noon-10pm; FriSun noon-11pm Book in advance to get one of the best spots at this hotly in-demand restaurant right across the water from the Chao Phraya's star attraction, Wat Arun. The menu of classic Thai dishes like beef massaman curry with roti and pad Thai is of a bankable standard, but you can also trust in their European grill dishes such as the New Zealand tenderloin or roasted rack of lamb. Spread over two alfresco stories, we recommend you request the top tier to get the perfect river view as the backdrop to your meal.

Exclusively for Citi credit cardmembers: Get 10% discount on food only. Today – 31 May 17

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now Due to the national state of mourning, many events in Bangkok have been canceled. We’ve verified what has and hasn’t been canceled with organizers, but please note that some of these event listings may be subject to change. We recommend you call and check with the venue or organizer before heading out.

NIGHTLIFE / GIGS

ART ROB MANGA PRESENTED BY SABAI SABAI RADIO

The Dutch DJ spins soulful electronic tracks at Thonglor’s hidden dive bar with support from Juice Willis and Maarten Goetheer. Nov 12, 8pm. 12 x 12, 810/22, Sukhumvit 55 Soi 2 (Thararom 2). B100.

BOBBY O'DONNELL AND ALEX IMIX PRESENTED BY TRANSPORT Mark Maya

Rob Manga

Valley of Chrome

nightlife TECHNO NIGHT PRESENTED BY SUBCONSCIOUS

DJs FunkPheno and Gimmie host a night dedicated to Berlin sounds including deep tech, techno and underground house. Nov 4, 9pm. Dickinson's Culture Cafe, 64 Pra Arthit Rd., 089-497-8422. Free.

DJ Bobby O’Donnell, resident at Leeds’s Mint Club, is joined by Russian DJ Alex Imix, resident at Bangkok’s Ce La Vi. Support from Brent Burns and Seelie & Persual in the upstairs Safe Room. Nov 12, 10pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. B150. BTS Chong Nonsi.

BURNING LOVE

DREAM PROPERTY

Photographer Ram Kanjanavanit presents images capturing the daily lives of a young couple's relationship in a series that combines minimal composition with a color running method.

Nov 12-Dec 28. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700.

Miti Ruangkritya's ongoing project explores property development and its impact Bangkok. The three main project pieces explore the transience of nature in the city, the omnipresence of advertising, and the ways that interior spaces have changed. Through Nov 27. Bangkok CityCity Gallery, 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725.

MRT Lumphini.

gigs KICKS FEST 2

BABABOBO WITH MARC MAYA [ELROW]

The founder of Ibiza’s Elrow party series headlines this event taking over three floors of RCA’s live music venue. Support from Bangkok collectives Elektro Delikatessen, Blast.Bkk, Phatfunk and House Jam, who’ll spin techno and electro house. Nov 5, 9pm. Live RCA Bangkok, RCA, Rama 9 Rd., 098-974-6974. B350.

A mini music festival featuring international bands Valley of Chrome (Philippines) and James and the Van Der Beeks (Vietnam) supported by local names Falling In Between, Cursed Habit and Spitting Dicks. Tattoo studios BKK Ink and Hidden Hand will also be present. Nov 11, 8pm. Soy Sauce Factory, 11/1 Charoenkrung Soi 24, 061-835-6824. B200.

THAI SEASCAPE

THROUGH THE EYES OF AN IDP

A group photo exhibition hosted by the CameraEyes School of Photography involving 30 black and white fine art photographs capturing serene moments around the country. Nov 8-20. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02214-6630-8. BTS National Stadium.

Kayla Richards presents an immersive photography project offering a look into the lives of internationally displaced people living in Burma. The photos were taken by 30 children in Myanmar's IDP camps who were given a disposable camera each.

Through Nov 21. Foreign Correspondent's Club Thailand, Penthouse/F, Maneeya Centre, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-652-0580-1. BTS Chit Lom.

NEWS Wonderfruit is Officially Postponed

WHY NOT

Spend the Day Sketching at Sanam Luang

Wonderfruit, the four-day festival of art, music and food that was originally scheduled for Dec 15-18, has now been postponed to Feb 16-19 2017 due to the country’s period of mourning.

"Taking into account the national sentiment here in Thailand and the guidelines set by the government, we are observing the 100-day grieving period, so that we can pay our proper respects,” read a statement on the official Wonderfruit website.

Despite the two-month delay, organizers are promising only slight changes to the lineup. "Most of our programming remains intact and we are working hard behind the scenes to update you as soon as possible with any changes and additions," they said. Real-time updates on lineup changes will be added to the post.

According to the statement, your tickets and accommodation bookings are valid for the new dates.

Refunds will be available through Nov 30 for those who can't make it, though no details on how to apply have yet been released.

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Now in its third year, Wonderfruit has established itself as Thailand's top music festival. Among the 29 names previously confirmed for 2016 are English drum 'n' bass group Rudimental; American house and funk DJ duo Wolf + Lamb; Radiohead guitarist Jonny Greenwood's JUNUN project; Mercury Prize-winning hip-hop group Young Fathers; and Kate Simko & the London Electronic Orchestra.

Local names on the lineup included rock band Srirajah Rockers and emerging molam singer Rasmee Isan Soul.

Away from the music, there promises to be talks and workshops from Muay Thai kickboxer Buakaw and sustainable community project Trash Hero; art from Taste of Wonder, puppeteer Nang Sakon Talung Dharma and Wonder Salon.

The location, at Siam Country Club outside Pattaya, remains the same. Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

This Nov 6, the Bangkok Sketchers group hosts a special sketch walk around the Sanam Luang area for an afternoon of remembrance for HM the King Bhumibol Adulyadej. The group will meet at the Giant Swing at 9am before spending the day sketching the historical scene with the aim of mourning through a shared love of art. As always, the activity is free for all and flexible for participants to join and leave at their liking. Bangkok Sketchers is a creative group that invites both beginner and professional artists to join in on various monthly walks around the city for an afternoon of sketching and meeting new friends.

Free. Nov 6, 9am-5pm. Meet at Giant Swing around 9am. www.fb.com/ BKSketchers

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FILM

Opening (Nov 3)

OUIJA: ORIGIN OF EVIL (USA)

HAUNTED SCHOOL (THAI)

Horror/Thriller. In 1965 Los Angeles, a widowed mother and her two daughters unwittingly invite an evil spirit into their home that ends up taking over the body of the youngest daughter.

Comedy. When a horror story told among school students comes true, the teachers and students must come together to chase away the evil spirits.

DEATH NOTE: LIGHT UP THE NEW WORLD (JAPAN)

Horror. Six deaths occur in a small Japanese town as a result of a supernatural notebook that grants its user the power to kill by writing the victim’s name on its pages.

Upcoming (Nov 10)

THE LIGHT BETWEEN OCEANS (USA)

INFERNO (USA)

Drama/ Romance. A lighthouse keeper and his wife adopt an abandoned girl adrift at sea. Years later, they are faced with a moral dilemma when they discover her true parentage.

Mystery/Thriller. A symbologist (Tom Hanks) and a doctor (Felicity Jones) team up to stop a madman from unleashing a powerful virus that could wipe out humanity.

IN THE ROOM (SINGAPORE)

Romance. Six intertwining love stories taking place across six decades, all set in a single-room brothel in the heart of Singapore.

BK Weekend Our weekly e-newsletter with top stories and happenings around town

www.bkmagazine.com/newsletters

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