July 2012

PLUS Fort Peck Dam

President Roosevelt’s prized project

Vertical Adventures

The area’s hottest cliffs to “hang”

Born to be Wild

Beauties on bikes

MAGIC I july 2012 I 1

Collaborative Care for Weight Loss Have you spent years dieting and find it impossible to keep the weight off after you have lost it?

Are you struggling to control your type 2 diabetes? Metabolism and weight can be impacted by certain medical conditions, hormones and other factors.

Metabolism Center Billings Clinic’s Metabolism Center is led by a board-certified endocrinologist and board-certified surgeons who work together with a team of health care professionals to provide complete care for patients. We offer a comprehensive program that leads to better health based on the individualized needs and goals of each patient. Services offered include programs that address lifestyle changes, diagnosis and treatment of metabolic abnormalities, clinical research, metabolic surgical procedures, and ongoing support and education.

Call 238-2258 or 1-800-332-7156, ext. 2258 to learn more.

www.billingsclinic.com/metabolism

2 I july 2012 I MAGIC

Metabolism Center care team (L-R): General and Metabolic Surgeon Bret Murray, MD; General and Metabolic Surgeon Walter Medlin, MD; Registered Dietitian Lisa Ranes, RD, CDE; Registered Dietitian Therese Hrncirik, RD, CDE; Endocrinologist Christopher Sorli, MD; Licensed Clinical Social Worker Diane Kersten, LCSW.

MAGIC I july 2012 I 3

Salentina Nero 1846K-55

Built Kid Tough.

Wilsonart® HD® High Definition™ Countertops

visit the following retail showrooms ProBuild 542 Main St | Billings | 406.252.9395

130 Riverside Rd | Billings, MT 59101 406.245.6770 | fabricatorssupply.net Wholesale To Trade /FabSupply

4 I july 2012 I MAGIC

Cabinet Works 2495 Enterprise Ave | Billings | 406.655.8955 Kitchens Plus 1010 S 29th St W | Billings | 406.652.5772 Appliance & Cabinet Center 2950 King AveW, #2| Billings | 406.656.9168

JULY 2012

SPLASH! Water ..............................................................65 A common thread that makes us all neighbors

Liquid Assets .............................................65 Real-life water parks

Deep Water Guardians........................70 U.S. Water Rescue Team

Serenity on the Stillwater....................74

77

Born to be Wild

80

SteepTeam coach, Joel Anderson mentors championship-caliber youth

BY Julie Johnson

MAGIC • BILLINGS’ CITY MAGAZINE SINCE 2003 WATER ISSUE • ROCK CLIMBING • BORN TO BE WILD • FORT PECK DAM

Fort Peck Dam

JULY 2012

84

Vertical Adventures

88

Creative License

90

Montana Fair

On the Cover President Roosevelt’s prized project

MC_48_JULYCover.indd 1

Vertical Adventures

The area’s hottest cliffs to “hang”

Splash!

Krakozawr for Prosto Agency

Born to be Wild

Beauties on bikes

Social Climber

PLUS

Beauties on Bikes

By Allyson Gierke

4 great climbs

BY Julie Johnson

LUV-R-PL8Z

By JULIE GREEN

Fun in 1916­­— even more fun in 2012

By GAIL MULLENAX-HEIN

6/25/2012 2:55:24 PM

MAGIC I july 2012 I 5

JULY 2012

16

The List Fun, fascinating finds........................................................................11 Profile Karen Sanford Gall: Athlete and Advocate................................12 Giving Back Family Services: ....................................................................14 Artist Loft Alice Walden – Steel Wielder of Whimsy ...................16 Featured Block Grand Ave. from 17th St. W. to 24th St. W.....18 Media Room Books, Movies, Music & Web Reviews ................20 Elements Camping in Style ............................................................................22

12 36

SIGNATURE SECTION

Fine Living

Great Estates: Western Homage................................................ 25 Epicure: Tacos del Mar.............................................................................. 32 Libations: Summer in a Glass............................................................ 36

38

25

Montana Perspectives

46

Legends Building “the Castle:” Fort Peck Dam........................ 38 Photo Journal The Pride of the New Deal..........................42 I’m Just Sayin’ Following the Flotsom....................................46 48

16

Travelogue

Beyond Billings Blue Highways..............................................48 Reflection Spiritualism in the Desert............................................52

In every issue

Editor’s Letter Gone Fishing.................................................................................................... 8 Contributors .............................................................................................................................................9 Seen at the Scene .......................................................................................................................93 Datebook Your Calendar of Events.................................................................................95 Last Word ............................................................................................................................................................................................98

6 I july 2012 I MAGIC

Why Magic City?

In the early 1880s, immigrants and adventurers came in droves to seek their livelihood on the verdant land along the Yellowstone River. The hastily constructed tents and log cabins made it appear as if Billings materialized overnight – thus earning the name “The Magic City.” Today, as the largest city in Montana, Billings proudly retains its ‘Magic City’ moniker. As for Magic City magazine, we promise to continue our mission to uncover all that is unique and wonderful and changing in this great community ... and we guarantee a few surprises along the way.

JULY 2012

•

VOLUME 10

Michael Gulledge

•

ISSUE 3

Publisher 657-1225

Editorial

Allyn Hulteng Editor 657-1434 Bob Tambo Creative Director 657-1474 Brittany Cremer Senior Editor 657-1390 Dina Brophy Assistant Editor 657-1490 Evelyn Noennig Assistant Editor 657-1226

Larry Mayer, James Woodcock, Casey Page, Bob Zellar, Paul Ruhter Photographers

Kyle Rickhoff, Preston Stahley

Online Web Designers

Advertising

Dave Worstell Sales & Marketing Director 657-1352 Ryan Brosseau Classified & Online Manager 657-1340 Bonnie Ramage Sales Manager 657-1202 Linsay Duty Advertising Coordinator 657-1254 Nadine Bittner Lead Graphic Artist 657-1286 MAGIC Advisory Board

Jim Duncan, Brian M. Johnson, Denice Johnson, Nicki Larson, Susan Riplett, Nancy Rupert Contact us: Mail: 401 N. Broadway Billings, MT 59101 editor@magiccitymagazine.com

featuring country music star

Craig Campbell Saturday October 20, 2012 5:30 p.m.

Holiday Inn Grand Montana Convention Center Billings

Find us online at our newly redesigned Web site www.magiccitymagazine.com Find us at various rack locations throughout Billings: Including area Albertson’s, Barnes & Noble Booksellers, Hastings Books, Music & Video, Holiday Station stores and Gainan’s.

Subscriptions are available at the annual subscription rate of $29 (5 Issues). Single copy rate $4.95. Mail subscription requests and changes to address above, ATTN: Circulation Magic City is published five times a year by Billings Gazette Communications Copyright© 2012 Magic City Magazine All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without express written consent is prohibited.

CORRECTION: In the May 2012 issue of Magic City Magazine, the article titled “A Guy’s Guide to Nipping and Tucking” featured an incomplete chart. The chart titled “Providers” should have included the following: Kenneth A. Bailey, MD Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery 2900 12th Ave. N. Suite 235 W. Billings, MT 59101 Phone: 406.238.6265 Website: baileyplasticsurgery.com We apologize for this oversight.

MAGIC I july 2012 I 7

FROM THE EDITOR

this issue

er, Dear Read

editor e from the t o n a d n ion that ou’ll fi l introduct fu magazine y t e gh h u t o f h o t a ge e nudges on this pa try to pen angible forc I t lly , a in e ic n p a im y t T r, e e

wev f th ) Most o etimes, ho ic (that’s me . content inside. Som bvious top . arding. Unnerving, o e h om t the fr o rew y t a d s w n e a a t , la g n re hing that directio unnervin t h n t o re b fe out somet is if b d a n a e io t ct in ri e w e ir d o m al r t is also t in editori is far easie rt. But it a e r h n w o This shif riter will tell you it e’s by a powe te from on y w ls inspired ri e w fe o t t a h is t because an t n it l of though arched tha s a channe n can be rese e p o it se becau rewarding, asis on han me. icular emph urce t e of Magic. rt r su a is p a is h h t far wise it ith , w er as a reso cess, the case w f this issue nce of wat a Such is pro e theme o rt h o t p is im ” e n the editing er fu out th gh b u a ro e h t t ri d w “Summ e to ork m and I w ad planned as the tea water. I h t u B n io creat . feeling. and for re and a familiar se n se cover story o r t u o r fo s I began e ” lak fly-fishing, the nudge. g Montana subject of in h e rc h a t se n o It was “ re n wasn’t rose ere betwee eloquent p ure that I t ’s n e rg v e d b a n e Somewh r t o o Gayle Whit about outd listening to sy writing u b so n e e d b I realized I’ real thing. me for e for the im sband gave t porized. u a h v y oset r e m t making t t a le g in the cl rod th editor in h y d is fl e n gu w n n e la la n p My g off the ders – also I’m dustin out my wa g n lli u p , Instead, go a u, too, are two years agazine, yo tdoors.

M u h o y it t C a e Christmas c gr gi s with whic f Ma ing to the r amenitie o this issue o o d t gh u u o – and head ro l h u t rf s you flip the wonde I hope a vantage of d a ll r fun are fu e k ta for summe s ie t ili ib inspired to ss o h pure e p ssed. to play wit ing, but th e t e lik e fl ls e is we are ble fe a n in Monta ver what it Summer and redisco re e h t t u o ember, fine. t Until Sept endless. Ge p on in, the water’s um abandon. J

Allyn

ng Allyn Hulte azine.com

iccitymag editor@mag

contributors

Tim Lehman

is Professor of History at Rocky Mountain College where he teaches a wide variety of courses in American, Western and Environmental History. He earned his Ph.D. at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and is the author of Bloodshed at Little Bighorn: Sitting Bull, Custer, and the Destinies of Nations. He can be reached at lehmant@rocky.edu.

Donna Healy, a freelance writer, started her

career in journalism on the Northern Cheyenne Reservation and worked as a feature writer for The Billings Gazette for more than 30 years. In June, she won a first place prize in the Society of Professional Jounalists Pacific Northwest Excellence in Journalism Competition. She loves exercise classes at the Billings YMCA, getting up before dawn and cutting flowers from the garden to rescue them from the weeds.

Dan Carter

Born and raised in the Gallatin Valley, and found his journalistic roots at the University of Montana. After graduating, he worked at weekly and small daily papers in Montana and Oregon before returning to Billings. He worked at The Billings Gazette for 14 years and now works in government relations and publications at MSU Billings.

Julie Johnson Rollins returned to

her hometown of Billings in 1996 after a decade and a half living in Boston and New York City. A physician, mother, wife, musician, nonprofit devotee and writer, she desires to write about “anything and everything that piques my curiosity.”

Jim Gransbery is a retired agricultural

and political reporter of The Billings Gazette. Since 2008, he has spent his time teaching, writing magazine articles for Montana publications and working on short fiction. He also looks after the well-being of his wife, Karen, who has made the whole trip possible.

NEW

at Gaina n’s

THE THYMES MARKET Gainan’s is proud to be one of five stores in the nation to offer the complete collection of Thymes products.

What it means for you: we have all your favorites!

Stop by our downtown location to shop our new “store within a store.”

502 N 30th | 245-6434

Karen Kinser

While loving the wizardry of words, Karen also loves travel because of that presentmoment sense, which travel conveys so well, that each day is a gift to unwrap. Other passions include hiking, gardening, photographing, and entering recipe contests. Both she and her husband are fascinated with factory tours, literary landmarks, and seeking restaurants mentioned in novels - just to see if they exist.

MAGIC I holiday 2011 I 9

Facial Plastics

July

$75 off Chemical Peels

Chemical peels are used to improve the appearance of the skin, making it look more healthy and youthful.

Call for details.

Offer expires July 31, 2012

August

$150 off Sculptra速

Sculptra速 Aesthetic is a filler suitable for deep folds between the nose and the mouth (nasolabial folds) also called smile lines, the lines framing your mouth (marionette lines) and chin wrinkles. It can also be used in the cheeks and temples. This is a great filler for adding volume to many areas of the face, and it lasts two years and longer in some patients.

Call for details. Offer expires August 31, 2012

For a list of our monthly specials or to make an appointment, call Michelle at (406) 657-4653 or visit www.billingsclinic.com/facialplastics 10 I july 2012 I MAGIC

JULY 2012

Liquid Bling

Say “Aloha” in style Fun, fascinating finds we think are great.

Wear liquid on your wrist and not get wet!

These finely-crafted bracelets are made with a patented Liquid Metal Mesh using chain invented by renowned jewlery designer, Sergio Gutierrez.

Make a statement at your next Montana luau in an island print camper shirt by Tommy Bahama. These silk and silkblend shirts look and feel great. Available in assorted Polynesian prints.

Available at Marcasa starting at $59

Available at Desmond’s — $118

Hit Pay Dirt

Coins, jewlery, precious metals and even gold!

Find them all with the The X-TERRA 705 Gold Pack. This easy-to-use metal detector will give you hours of treasure hunting fun.

Available at Scheels —$750

Natural Beauty

Developed by Kay Del Shelton, founder of The Myrtle Leaf, these all-natural skin care products contain fruit acids, proteins, vitamins and minerals in their “whole plant” form to provide maximum benefit in maintaining healthy, vibrant skin at every age.

Organic Green Tea & Rice Protein Revitalizing Facial Mist — $22 Nature’s Chemistry Organic Nutrients Hydrating Serum — $36 Rosemilk Gentle Cleansing Milk — $17

No-Trees Required Hammock Chill out in the backyard in this Easy Outdoor® free-standing hammock. This version gently rocks from side to side on a pair of legs, allowing it to go anywhere — even areas without trees. An adjustable canopy protects you from the hot sun.

Available at Sports Authority—$199

Available at The Myrtle Leaf

MAGIC I july 2012 I 11

By Laura Tode• Photography by James Woodcock

Karen Sanford Gall Athlete and Advocate

Big Sky State Games Executive Director Karen Sanford Gall is a torchbearer for community health and fitness, and as a lifetime runner, she knows firsthand the satisfaction of an active lifestyle.

Sanford Gall became executive director in 1997, about 11 years after the games were founded. The three-day event draws thousands of competitors from across the state and relies on almost as many volunteers to pull it all together.

The mission of the Big Sky State Games goes beyond putting on an amateur sporting event, said Sanford Gall. She hopes the games spark a lifetime interest in physical fitness and help build healthy relationships.

“I believe there’s a pathway to fitness for everyone,” she said. “You just have to find your passion.”

Sanford Gall found hers in running, and she started at an early age in Casper, Wyo. Her coach made competition fun, and the team traveled to numerous races throughout the area. When she went to high school, she continued running, eventually running for the University of Wyoming cross country and track and field teams.

She still holds the university record for the fastest indoor 2,000-meter run, and was a member of the relay teams that still hold records in the indoor and outdoor 4 x 800 relay. She also held school records in the 880-yard run and the 1,000-yard run as well as the indoor mile. In 2010, Sanford Gall was honored for her impressive sports career when she was inducted into the University of Wyoming Athletic Hall of Fame.

After college Sanford Gall took up long distance running. True to her competitive spirit, she set her sights high, qualifying for four U.S. Olympic trials in the marathon. Her goal was to make the U.S. Olympic Team, and although she fell short of reaching that goal, the experience didn’t diminish her love for long-

12 I july 2012 I MAGIC

distance running.

Sanford Gall has run 15 marathons, including the Boston, Chicago and New York marathons.

These days, although Sanford Gall no longer trains for marathons, she is still an avid runner, logging some 25 miles a week.

“And that’s A-OK with me,” she said. “I just want to be able to continue to run for the rest of my life.”

Beyond coordinating the Big Sky State Games, Sanford Gall is also involved in promoting many other communityfocused fitness events, including Shape Up Montana, Big Sky Fit Kids, the Heart and I believe there’s Sole Run and the Yellowstone Valley Elementary School Cross Country Meet. She is on a pathway the board of The Y, the Montana Women’s to fitness for Run, National Congress of State Games and the National Federation of State High School everyone, you Associations. Over the years, she’s held posijust have to find tions on the board of the Billings Chamber of Commerce and the Yes for Kids Campaign. your passion.

Her commitment to the community was recognized by the Billings YWCA in 2007 when Sanford Gall was honored at the organization’s annual Salute to Women.

In one way or another, her life is all about fitness, and Sanford Gall gets excited when she sees people walking, running and using the bike paths around Billings.

“I love to see people set a goal and work toward it,” she said. “They’re exuberant as their body transforms and their self-esteem grows. By taking charge, they gain a better quality of life. That makes what I do worthwhile.”

Big Sky State Games Modeled after the Olympic Games, The Big Sky State Games is Montana’s premier sporting event and will be held July 20-22. Competition is spread across 37 sports that are as varied as Montana’s landscape. They include hobby-sports like disc golf and roller skating and extend to more traditional sports like basketball and track and field events.

The Big Sky State Games, which were founded in 1986, are open to anyone living in Montana or surrounding states that do not have their own state games. More than 10,000 people of all

Karen Sanford Gall Photo by Casey Page

ages and ability levels participated in the Big Sky State Games last year, and Montana ranks first in the nation for participation per capita.

For more information, go to www.bigskygames.org.

2814 2nd Ave N 259-3624 MAGIC I july 2012 I 13

By Anna Paige • Photography by Bob Zellar

Family Services Helping others since 1906

When Jazmyne Rice and her fiancé, Raymond Baker, got behind on their electric bill last the winter, they decided to ask for help. They were referred to Family Services Inc., an organization that since 1906 has worked to prevent hunger and homelessness in Yellowstone County by providing a multitude of assistance programs to low-income families and individuals in Yellowstone County.

For Rice and Baker, Family Services Inc. did much more than help them pay an overdue electric bill. With the organization’s various assistance programs, they’ve moved into a house, received help with household items such as furniture and basic necessities and were provided nutritious food baskets when they needed them.

Family Services Inc. also helped the couple empower themselves by giving them the tools to set up financial plans and budgets for meals and other household costs.

Family Services Inc. Executive Director Paul Chinberg estimates the organization serves one in every six families in Yellowstone County.

Many of these families are considered lowincome, making less than $18,000 a year, and a large majority are making $10,000 – $12,000 annually.

Programs are varied, from rental and utility assistance to a “fresh food rescue program” that provides a family enough balanced Jazmyne Rice and her fiancé, Raymond Baker foods—including fresh meats, vegetables, and dairy—to last seven days. The organization hands out a million and a half pounds of food each year and gives upwards of 18,000 pieces of clothing to people in need.

Chinberg describes the organization as a distributor that helps strengthen the community as a whole by assisting citizens one at a time. “We offer a variety of programs,” Chinberg said. “Low-income people have a lot of underlying issues. Until they are able to help themselves, we are not doing a lot of good without looking at their entire needs.”

The organization relies on donations, from clothing and general household items to close-dated food, and nearly 55 percent of

14 I july 2012 I MAGIC

Family Services Inc.’s funding comes from community donations. “Billings is a very giving community,” Chinberg said. They like to take care of their own.”

Area grocers, including Costco, Albertsons, Walmart and Sam’s Club provide Family Services Inc. food that is within five to six days of expiring. That food goes out the door immediately to families in need.

In addition to providing clothing, the organization has a second hand store that helps generate funds and a back-to-school program that provides children with grade-appropriate school supplies.

Family Services Inc. “We want those young people to be prepared and Fall Fundraiser not have to worry about being demeaned when Country music star they don’t have a pencil,” Craig Campbell will Chinberg said. “It is a matter headline the annual of looking at a whole person fundraising event for and all of the problems, not Family Services Inc., just the fact that they may titled “Dining Out for be hungry for the next seven Life.” days.”

The event will take Photo by Dale Manning Rice is extremely grateplace on Sat., Oct. 20 at ful for the assistance she the Holiday Inn Grand Montana Convention received when she needed it Center. Guests will enjoy a filet mignon dinner, most. “If it weren’t for them, silent auction and Campbell in concert. The I don’t think I’d be where I event theme, “Hope for Solid Ground,” was am,” she said. Growing up, inspired by Campbell’s hit single, “Family Man.” Rice was told that she would Event proceeds will help the organization feed never accomplish anything, hungry families and prevent homelessness and that mentality stuck Yellowstone County. with her. “But now with help, “Whether we are providing an emergency I am doing the financial food box for a family in crisis or assisting a budgeting and the meal budsenior citizen with a utility payment, our goal geting. There are things I can is to help struggling people find solid ground,” change, and certain things says Paul Chinberg, executive director of that I can’t change.”

Family Service. “Dining Out for Life generates Rice’s parting advice critical funding for our programs, including to those in need: “If you’re food distribution, clothing distribution and hurting in a situation, don’t rent/utility payment assistance.We invite the be scared to go and ask for community to join us for a fun evening that the help, because it’s out helps our neighbors in need.” there.”

A variety of sponsorships are available.

Individual tickets are $150 and are available for purchase at www.famserv.com.

Fancy Sushi & Authentic Asian Entrees

japanese cuisine

View our menu online at www.fancysushiaf.com

1313 Grand Ave • Suite 3 Billings, MT • 245-6888 Cfaolrlut! takeo

Prepared especially for you by our chefs from New York!

3220 1st Ave. N • Billings www.ethanallen.com

254-2244

MAGIC I july 2012 I 15

By Donna Healy • Photography by James Woodcock

Alice Walden Steel wielder of whimsy

For Alice “Bobi”Walden, cutting and welding metal is akin to sewing. Using a welder, she “stitches” pieces of steel into fanciful yard-art sculptures.

“I can bend steel and twist it and mess it up and it likes it,” said the 68-year-old Walden, a native Montanan who punctuates her sentences with laughter.

The sculptures, planted across the hilly yard of her home studio and gallery in Laurel, make a gallery sign superfluous.

A gargoyle and dragon flank the creek bed. Fence panels frame comic “crazy critters” and fantasy flowers. In one panel, a pair of “undertaker birds” face off, their stork-like bodies dressed in top and her husband converted a wool warehouse hats, tails and bow ties. Walden’s once owned by the Milwaukee Railroad into their playful free-standing figures include “I love feel-good studio, gallery and home. When she wanted a fiddling crickets and frogs that boogie in flock of steel sheep in front of the Wool House the wind. art. That’s what I Gallery, her husband taught her to cut the metal “I love feel-good art. That’s what I by hand, using an electric nibbler. create,” she said. “Just things that make create, just things People often asked to buy the sheep, and she me feel good and that other people love eventually sold the whole herd. in their yard.” To her, sunflowers are that make me feel “I told my husband, I can do something other “happy flowers.” than these dumb sheep. And that’s how I got into Although she began creating art in good and that metal,” she said. childhood, she worked as a bookkeeper She describes her husband, Dee, who headed and accountant, a career that kept her other people love the high school vocational program in Miles City, creativity in check. Then, at age 40, she in their yard.” as a “very concrete and sequential” thinker. got an art degree and spent the next 25 “He’s very straight, right-angled, while I like to years teaching elementary students in be very crooked and messed up,” she said.

Miles City.

Her large outdoor sculptures are typically com “They’d say, Mrs. Walden, you’re missioned pieces, including a Lewis and Clark weird. And I’d say ‘thank you’ because I sculpture for the Pine Hills School in Miles City, figured it was a compliment.” and a sculpture of soldiers in combat for the Veterans of Foreign In 1991, she started doing metalwork almost by accident, after she

16 I july 2012 I MAGIC

for all your business.

Wars in Jordan.

In 2007, the couple moved to Laurel, where her workshop now contains two plasma cutters along with an anvil that belonged to her father, a farmer who could fix just about anything.

Walden does shows in the spring and early fall at her gallery, at 808 Ridge Drive in Laurel, but visitors are also welcome to drop by unannounced or call her at (406) 853-0078.

2000 thru 2011

Hot Tub/Spa Center

Top Left:“Harley the Heron Goes Hog Wild” Top right:“Twist of Fate”Above Left:“Fall Flowers and Wheel” Above right:“Sacagawea Standing Firm Against the Wind” Right:“Year of the Dragon”

652-7727 • 2217 Grand Avenue www.lovethetub.com MAGIC I july 2012 I 17

20th St. W.

18.

21th St. W.

Your one-stop street for home improvement, food, apparel and more

20. 19.

Grand Ave. North 24th St. W.

Grand Avenue from 17th St. W. to 24th St. W.

22th St. W.

Ave. B

Rose Park

14.

17. 16. 15. 13. 12. 11.

22. 21.

Alderson Ave

7. Radio Shack 1903 Grand Ave. Locally-owned and operated with the biggest brands, latest products and knowledgeable friendly service.

8. Pittsburgh Paint Center 1904 Grand Ave. Where all your colorful dreams come true.

9. Ardie’s Coins, Gold, Silver & Jewelry 1944 Grand Ave. Your local dealer for precious metals and collectible coins.

10. Bighorn Boots The Montana HotSpring Spa showroom is as warm and inviting as the equipment they offer. Photo by James Woodcock.

1. Bourne Again Shoppe 1701 Grand Ave. Discover guilt-free treasures!

Bourne Again Shoppe buys, sells, consigns and trades a wide range of furniture, decorations, jewelry and clothing items.

2. Mattress King

1702 Grand Ave. Committed to giving customers unsurpassed service in selecting a quality mattress for a better night’s sleep.

3. The Base Camp 1730 Grand Ave. Everything you need for adventure in the great outdoors.

4. Stuart’s House of Vacuums 1804 Grand Ave. Offering high-quality vacuums, air purifiers and central vacuum systems, we are your source for clean home solutions.

5. Step ‘N Out Formal Wear 1816 Grand Ave. Known for their fabulous selection of bridal gowns, bridesmaids dresses, tuxedos, mother-of-the-bride dresses and bridal accessories.

6. Billings Gunsmith 1841 Grand Ave.

1945 Grand Ave. Dedicated to men’s footwear and work clothing, featuring brands like Tony Lama, Justin, Wolverine, Carhartt and more.

11. In Good Glazes 2010 Grand Ave. Contemporary ceramic studio offering fun for the whole family.

12. Cutie Patootie Boutique 2010 Grand Ave. A unique boutique filled with anything and everything for big and little princesses.

Stuart’s House of Vacuums

The Base Camp

18 I july 2012 I MAGIC

In Good Glazes

10.

9.

7.

6.

8.

5.

1.

Grand Ave.

19th St. W.

4.

3.

17th St. W.

18th St. W.

Ave. B

2.

Alderson Ave

13. World Famous Carpet Barn 2032 Grand Ave. The Barn is stocked full of some of the industry’s best bargains, closeouts and specials on wood floors, carpet, area rugs, ceramic tile, laminate floors and granite.

14. Juro’s Home Medical Pharmacy 2043 Grand Ave. Accredited provider of integrated home health care products and services for more than 50 years. Juro’s offers a comprehensive range of pharmacy, home respiratory, rehabilitation equipment and home medical products.

15. Dana Motors

2046 Grand Ave. “Montana’s Home of Automotive Excellence,” now offers the region’s premier luxury pre-owned autos with accompanying service for all luxury makes. Serving the region since 1965.

18. Montana Flooring Liquidators 2135 Grand Ave. Offering first-quality flooring at liquidation prices.

19. Midwest Leather 2201 Grand Ave. Montana’s one-stop leather shop, featuring motorcycle gear, leather apparel and patches.

Expert repairs and cleaning since 1954.

20. Montana HotSpring Spa 2217 Grand Ave. Imagine gliding into the soothing tranquility of your own hot tub… Montana HotSpring Spa specializes in quality relaxation. Locally-owned and familyoperated since 1977.

21. Davidson Home Furnishings & Design 2228 Grand Ave. One of the leading residential interior design firms in Montana specializing in personalized service and care to all clients no matter what the scope.

2228 Grand Ave. Serving pita bread sandwiches, soups and salads – made fresh to order.

2048 Grand Ave. A Billings original – try the lunchtime pizza and salad bar, you won’t be disappointed.

17. The Paint Factory

Ardie’s Coins, Gold, Silver & Jewelery

wrong windows!

The experts at the local Pella store helped me make the right choice.

”

you, Pella “forThank saving me time and money!”

22. Pita Pit

16. Village Inn Pizza

2132 Grand Ave. Local, Montana-owned, full-service paint and coatings store. Professional service, quality brands, everyday low prices.

The big box store “almost sold me the

A Billings original­.Village Inn Pizza. Photo by Casey Page

Midwest Leather

We’ll Come to You. Replacing windows or doors? Every home requires special considerations. At Pella, we’ve got experts ready to help you every step of the way. Stop by your local Pella store or call for a free in-home consultation.

2520 Grand Ave., Billings (406) 656-1516 (800) 727-3552 pellamt.com MAGIC I july 2012 I 19

By Brittany Cremer

mOVIES / DVD

“A River Runs Through It” 20th Anniversary Commemorative Edition [Blu-ray] (1992) Directed by Robert Redford

Music Counting Crows “Underwater Sunshine” (or what we did on our summer vacation) Produced by Counting Crows and Shawn Dealey, “Underwater Sunshine” features tracks written by artists such as Big Star, Gram Parsons, Tender Mercies, Kasey Anderson and The Faces. Each rendition delivers the conviction and intense honesty the band is known for, sending shockwaves straight to your heart. As their first independent release, it was the right time for the Crows to make this album. “If you wonder why we didn’t just write our own record, it’s simply because we wanted to do THIS one,” they said. “We now have the creative freedom to release albums like this and offer our fans more music than ever.” The Counting Crows will be performing at this year’s Magic City Blues Festival in downtown Billings August 9-12.

Web-Ed Where’s My Water App

By Disney

Swampy the Alligator lives in the sewers under the city. He is a little different from the other alligators — he’s curious, friendly and loves taking a a long shower after a hard day at work. The other alligators have damaged his plumbing and disrupted the water flow. Help Swampy by collecting ducks and shower items to unlock new puzzles and bonus levels in this light-hearted, educational app. It’s Angry Birds with a splash of reptilian repartee and just as addicting.

Download today at iTunes.

Book “Rock Climbing Montana” Edited by Randall Green A cinematographic masterpiece, “A River Runs Through It” has been reeling in audiences for 20 years. To mark the occasion, a commemorative edition Blu-ray has been released. A lyrical and nostalgic film, “A River Runs Through It” chronicles two brothers coming of age in early 20th-century Missoula, Mont. Their father instills in them a love of fly fishing, which for one brother (Brad Pitt) becomes a lifelong passion. The other brother, Norman (Craig Sheffer), dreams of exploring the world outside of Missoula as he falls in love with a local girl who also dreams of broader horizons.

Soon one brother must discover the true meaning of family loyalty when the other finds himself in deeper trouble than ever before.

20 I july 2012 I MAGIC

Montana offers a lifetime of adventure and challenge with its unending vertical horizon. “Rock Climbing Montana,” formerly “The Rock Climber’s Guide to Montana,” is the only guide available that covers all the major climbing areas in the state including out-of-the-way spots like Stone Hill, Mulkey and Rattler Gulch. The book also includes a section on the state’s highest mountain, Granite Peak, with routes ranging from 5.3 to 5.13. Climbers from around the state (Dwight Bishop, Ron Brunckhorst, Bill Dockins, Brian Hatfield and many others) provided first-hand information for area overviews, route betas, topos, maps and photos. Also included are suggestions for types of anchors, approaches and descents into these mountainous crags. If you are serious about climbing, this book should be in your arsenal.

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MAGIC I july 2012 21 5/22/12 8:41I AM

By Dina Brophy • Photography by Bob Zellar

Camping in style Home away from home – Take luxury accommodations to the great outdoors with Fox River’s Rockwood Hard Side Pop-up Trailer. Unlike a tent-trailer, this is 100% critter-proof and will set up literally in a minute. Complete with stove, refrigerator and sink along with a dining area that converts into a full-sized bed, this ultra-light trailer is designed to be towed with any vehicle.

I-90 Motors & RV -Starting from $11,999

Model A128S with optional awning/screenroom. Chairs not included.

Crazy Legs™ Chairs – Made by

Crazy Creek of Red Lodge, these ultra-sturdy camp chairs are perfect for tailgating, relaxing on the deck, fishing and obviously, camping. The chair even boasts a side table and side caddy to hold your immediate essentials.

Base Camp $72

22 I july 2012 I MAGIC

Hiker Pro Microfilter – From

Katadyn®, this lightweight water filtration system is easy to operate and has ample output. Ideal for camping and backpacking, it’s the easiest way to make water safe to drink.

Base Camp - $85

Camp Chef Butane Stove – Compact and portable, a single

burner butane stove is perfect for quick, light heating jobs at the campsite. It even comes with a sturdy carrying case.

Shipton’s Big R - $25

Success in school, and in life.

Spending a summer at Sylvan will do more than just keep your child busy. A personalized summer learning plan can build the skills, habits and attitudes your child needs for lifelong success.

Coleman LED Classic Lantern – Light up the night with

this weather-resistant, classic design LED lantern .Long-lasting with up to 66 hours of runtime, this pint-sized torch is always cool to the touch.

Shipton’s Big R - $40

Coleman Coffeemaker – Portable and propane-powered, hot coffee is just minutes away. The stainless steel carafe holds 10 cups for coffee-on-the-go.

Shipton’s Big R - $120

Sylvan will develop a program to help your child keep up over summer break.

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MAGIC I july 2012 I 23

Billings doesn’t shut down at 5...

Neither do your educational opportunities. MSU Billings has always been Montana’s Online Education Leader.

Now we have our “sites” set on owning the night.

REGISTER FOR FALL EVENING CLASSES TODAY Finite Mathematics

Monday and Wednesday

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Introduction to Sociology

Tuesday and Thursday

4:00 – 5:30 p.m.

Developmental Writing

Tuesday and Thursday

5:45 – 7:15 p.m.

Intro to Native American Studies

Tuesday and Thursday

5:45 – 7:15 p.m.

Intermediate Algebra

Tuesday and Thursday

7:30 – 9:30 p.m.

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5:45 – 7:15 p.m.

Introduction to Literature

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visit 3803 Central Ave. online msubillings.edu/cot call 247-3007 24Magic I july 20121 I MAGIC Full.indd

5/21/2012 6:41:05 PM

FINE LIVING

great estates

W

estern

When Dick Ostermiller decided to build his home, he had two goals in mind: to create something that was unique and that would pay tribute to his parents. What he achieved was something far more

By Julie Green Interior photography

by James Woodcock

remarkable — a home that transcends time.

The Ostermiller home is beautifully lit at dusk, showcasing the owner’s custom water feature. A concrete path is framed by metal wagon wheel rims, providing a unique walkway that pays homage to the home’s western feel.Photo by Paul Ruhter.

MAGIC I july 2012 I 25

FINE LIVING

great estates

Homeward found

A Billings native, Dick returned to Billings from western Washington in 2003 to help take care of his mother. The children of German Russian immigrants, both she and Dick’s father worked hard to create a rich life for their children. After her passing, Dick knew that the family home held too many memories, so he elected to build a new home that could honor their memory.

“When I was thinking about the kind of home I would like, I really thought about my mom and dad,” he said. “I wanted it to be something that they would have enjoyed, that they would have found appealing.”

He began his search for a property that had a wide open, rural feel but remained close to all that Billings has to offer. A chance meeting with real estate agent Dana Lich led him to the perfect lot in a new development just outside of Laurel.

“When I saw this property, I instantly felt like I was miles away from the city,” Dick said. “I liked the fact that it was quiet and so open.”

Once he’d found the place on which he wanted to build, the planning began. The result was a home that Ostermiller described as being “rustic, but sophisticated.”

26 I july 2012 I MAGIC

Living room: A juniper wood coffee table base is the centerpiece of Ostermiller’s living room. The glass top was specially formed to replicate the rough finished face of the stone kitchen counters. Dick selected a unique juniper wood mantle to provide an additional level of warmth and interest on the room’s corner fireplace. Each of the juniper wood pieces throughout his home is one-of-a-kind and hand-finished to bring out the wood’s unique shape and myriad of colors. Entry Way: Taking inspiration from the heavy leaded glass windows set into and around his front door, Ostermiller worked with builder Mark Ventling to design a unique entryway. Strips of contrasting dark and light wood mimic the window pattern, immediately adding a personal touch to the space.

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MAGIC I july 2012 I 27

FINE LIVING

great estates

Bucolic beauty

An open-concept floor plan allows the kitchen, living and dining rooms to flow together and makes the most of the home’s north-facing views. High ceilings accented with dark, exposed trusses add to the home’s open feel, while a stone fireplace and plank flooring create a cozy, lodge-like feel.

It is Dick’s choice of furniture and accents that truly set the home apart, however. For each room, he selected handcrafted juniper wood pieces to use for both decoration and function, from tables and heavy chests of drawers to lamp bases.

“I had seen these types of pieces both in Montana and in Oregon,” he said. “When the wood is harvested it is usually gray, but when craftsmen remove the outer layer, rich colors appear. No two pieces are alike, which appeals to me.”

Versatile visionary

One of the most eyecatching pieces was also one that initially caused more than a few raised brows: the custom desk chair created by Twists of Nature for Dick’s study.

“When Hugh [Miller] called to ask what color of leather I wanted for the chair, I’d already decided I wanted it to be a dark red,” Dick remembered.

“His response was ‘Really?’ Then his wife asked what color I’d chosen, and when he told her, he got pretty much the same response I had.

But when he saw the final result, they agreed I was right.”

28 I july 2012 I MAGIC

Kitchen and Dining rooms: Rich wood floors and custom cabinets contrast with gleaming countertops, rough stone island front and tile backsplash. A sleek range allows the view from the kitchen to the rest of the room to remain unbroken, while leatherupholstered pine bar stools are ready to welcome guests. In the dining room, handcrafted chairs surrounded a juniper-based, glasstopped table. Ostermiller took every opportunity to highlight nature in his home’s construction; even the metal cupboard door handles are formed to look like twigs. Bedroom: Making the most of natural light and featuring a tray ceiling, the master bedroom is a welcome getaway at the end of the day for Dick, who works full-time, teaches ballroom dance and is a skilled auctioneer. A cowhide rug leads to the elegant, custom-made bed constructed of twisting, multicolored juniper branches.

“There were specialty items that they willingly accommodated.

I would build with Mark again.�

- Dick Ostermiller

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FINE LIVING

great estates

Dick used some of the leftover red leather to cover the room’s light switch plates, a technique he also used in other rooms. Easy to clean, they blend seamlessly with each room’s wall color and décor.

At last complete, Ostermiller finds peace and quiet comfort in the home he has created.

“It really is my escape,” he said. “And it’s a place I know my parents would have enjoyed.”

30 I july 2012 I MAGIC

On the wall between the home’s entry and the office rests a heavy wagon wheel Dick originally planned to use as wall décor. The toy pistols and leather gun belt hanging on it are from Dick’s childhood.

Study: French doors open into Dick’s office, which includes a custom desk and chair designed by Twists of Nature.

When it came to his home’s landscaping, Dick was adamant about including a stone water feature. “I wanted it to feel and sound like I was sitting on the banks of Rock Creek, but without having to go to Red Lodge.”

“Every day I walk in to my new kitchen I just beam. Friends and family are just amazed at the transformation.”

– Vickie Martin

When D.J. & Vickie Martin came to Freyenhagen Construction to change their kitchen, they had ideas but not a clear picture in their minds of how they wanted their new kitchen to look. Their wish list included an open floor plan, plenty of room for large family gatherings and a touch of Italy thrown in for that extra “wow” factor. Jeremy and his team were able to create a beautiful new kitchen for the Martins that included all of their must-haves. A specially designed angled island helped create the open floor plan they envisioned.

Italy is reflected in the style of cabinets, flooring, lights, fixtures and colors that were selected. The Martin’s new kitchen can be summed up in one word… Bellissimo.

For more on the Martin Remodel, visit www.freyenhagenconstruction.com/martin-kitchen

MAGIC I july 2012 I 31

FINE LIVING

epicure

Tacos del Fish tacos offer a fresh and flavorful twist on hot-weather fare. Not only are they delicious, they can be made relatively easily from scratch. This month’s Epicure offers recipes for fish tacos and all the trimmings...plus dessert, Mexican-style!

Simple Steps to a Delicious Fish Taco Dinner for Four

Tacos taste the best—and are more fun for your family or guests—when they’re assembled by the eaters. When you have finished the steps below, place the plates and bowls of each dish (the salsa, slaw, avocados, tortillas and fish) on the table and let the fiesta begin. Prepare the salsa (see recipe below) or use store-bought. Place in a serving bowl for later use.

1. Prepare the Red Cabbage Slaw (see recipe below).

2. Chop two avocados to serve as a topping.

3. Warm the tortillas on each side in a lightly-oiled pan on medium heat, or directly over the flame of an outdoor grill.

4. Cook the fish (see recipe below).

5. If you wish to make your own sorbet, give the recipe on page 34 a try.

Otherwise, store-bought sorbet makes a fine substitution.

Red Cabbage Slaw with Lime and Cilantro 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons brown sugar 1/3 cup freshly-squeezed lime juice 1/2 medium red cabbage, cored and shredded 1 jalapeno, de-seeded, de-ribbed and minced (include ribs and seeds for a hotter taste, if desired) 1 large carrot, grated 3/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro Salt and pepper to taste

Combine olive oil, salt and pepper, brown sugar and lime juice in a large bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and toss. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

32 I july 2012 I MAGIC

Fish 2 teaspoons olive oil 1 lb. fresh swordfish or halibut filets Salt and pepper to taste

Soak the filets in cold water for at least one minute. Pat dry with a paper towel. Bring a large skillet to medium high heat. Add olive oil. Cook the filets in the skillet for 1-2 minutes on each side. (Cooking time depends on the thickness of the filets.) The fish should be just opaque when done. Remove from the pan and place on a serving plate. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Mar

A Baja-Inspired Menu for Fresh Summer Eating

By Alexis Adams

MAGIC I july 2012 I 33

FINE LIVING

epicure

Fresh Mango Salsa 1 ripe mango, peeled, pitted and diced (about 1 ½ cup) 1/2 medium red onion, finely chopped 1 jalapeno chile, minced (include ribs and seeds for a hotter taste, if desired) 1 red pepper, diced (about 1 cup) 3 tablespoons fresh cilantro leaves, chopped 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or more to taste Salt and pepper to taste

Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Pineapple Sorbet Wrap up your meal with a fruity sorbet.

Any store-bought sorbet will do, but if you have an ice cream maker, this recipe pairs delectably.

1 ½ cups water 2 ⁄ 3 cup sugar 1 pineapple, trimmed, peeled, cored and cut into chunks 1⁄4 cup lime juice

Make a simple syrup by combining the sugar and 1 ½ cups water in a small pan; boil until the sugar dissolves. Let the syrup cool, then chill in the refrigerator. Purée pineapple in a food processor, transfer to a bowl, cover and refrigerate until cold. Combine syrup, 2 cups of the pineapple purée and lime juice in a bowl. Process mixture in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s directions.

34 I july 2012 I MAGIC

The Market is Don’t Get Left Behind.*

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Ryan Moore 855-4090

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Jeanne Peterson 661-3941

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Judy Shelhamer 850-3623

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*CNN Money ranks Billings, MT as a Top 10 Improving U.S. Housing Market, with a forecast gain over 10% for 2013.

We Unite Buyers and Sellers, Your Home is Our Business!

406-254-1550 | www.floberg.com | 1550 Poly Drive, Billings, MT 59102 2012 BRER Affiliates Inc. An independently owned and operated broker member of BRER Affiliates Inc. Prudential, the Prudential logo and the Rock symbol are registered service marks of Prudential Financial, Inc. and its related entities, registered in many jurisdictions worldwide. Used under license with no other affiliation with Prudential. Equal Housing Opportunity.

MAGIC I july 2012 I 35

FINE LIVING

libations

36 I july 2012 I MAGIC

Summer in a Glass

By Stella Fong

Move aside lemonade.

Limes have more acidic punch and herbaceous floral notes than their yellow-colored cousins and offer an inspired base for creative cocktails.

For a burst of thirst-quenching cool, follow this easy recipe for old-time limeade, or expand your palate with one of these clever concoctions. Paper umbrella optional.

Old-time Limeade Makes 8 to 10 cups 1 cup freshlysqueezed lime juice (about 5 large limes) 7 cups water 1 cup sugar 2 cups ice 1 lime, sliced, for garnish

In a pitcher, mix together lime juice, water and sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved.

Taste, add more sugar or water if desired.

Chill in refrigerator for 2 hours. Add ice and lime slices prior to serving.

Spicy Roasted Pineapple Limeade

Raspberry Mint Limeade

Fresh Basil and Pear Limeade

Makes 8 – 10 cups

Makes 8 – 10 cups

Makes 8 – 10 cups

7 cups limeade 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice 6 rings fresh pineapple 1/2 red jalapeno, thinly sliced 2 cups ice

7 cups limeade 1/2 pint fresh raspberries 1 cup lightly-packed mint leaves 2 cups ice

6 cups limeade 3/4 cup pear-flavored vodka (optional) ¼ cup pear nectar 1/2 teaspoon sugar Fresh basil leaves 2 cups ice

Roast pineapple rings under broiler or on grill until brown. Blend 4 cups limeade and 4 pineapple rings in blender. Mix puree with remaining limeade, jalapeno and ice in a pitcher.

Serve with pineapple spear and jalapeno ring garnish.

Crush raspberries through fine sieve mesh, discard seeds. In a pitcher, mix together limeade with fruit puree, mint and ice. Serve with whole raspberry/sliced lime garnish.

Muddle 3 basil leaves with sugar and put into a pitcher. Add pear vodka, pear nectar, limeade and ice. Serve with fresh basil leaf garnish.

Stella Fong divides her time between Billings and Big Sky where she writes, cooks and teaches. Recently she received a Robert Parker Scholarship for continuing studies at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone.

MAGIC I july 2012 I 37

MONTANA PERSPECTIVES

38 I july 2012 I MAGIC

legends

The construction of Fort Peck Dam was by far the largest New Deal project in Montana. The Army Corps of Engineers designed the dam and supervised the flurry of activity.

“Castle” Building the

The first issue of “Life” magazine, the most important pictorial record of the 20th century, featured a Montana scene on the front cover. But it was not Yellowstone, Glacier or trout-laden rivers that captivated the nation’s attention. Instead, the magazine celebrated the world’s largest earthen dam being built in one of the most isolated and lonely reaches of the country.

The debut cover pictured the massive concrete spillway of the Fort Peck Dam, photographed from a dramatic angle so that it appeared like a grand medieval fortress, leading to its nickname: Montana’s Castle.

Memorialized this way, the Fort Peck Dam loomed in the American imagination as a symbol of New Deal public works in the West, an image of industrial progress reshaping a frontier landscape during the midst of the Great Depression. But if the cover featured an image of Fort Peck as America at its most modern, the rest of the photos and the story inside the magazine portrayed the boomtowns that sprang up around the construction site as a throwback to the Wild West.

Under the headline “10,000 Montana Relief Workers Make Whoopee on a Saturday Night,” nine pages of photographs highlighted taxi dancers, tar paper shacks, beer parlors complete with a wide-eyed child sitting on the bar, and families mired in poverty. The majority of the photos came from inside a tavern, with the subjects dancing, drinking and staring at the camera. Captions explained that “saloons are as wide open” as the 19th century cow towns of the West and that “drinks are as raw as they ever were.” One shot featured a woman downing a beer while in the background a poster proclaimed President Franklin Roosevelt to be a “Gallant Leader” and a sign read “No Beer Sold to Indians.”

By Tim Lehman Photos courtesy of the U.S. Army Corp of Engineers

Fort Peck Dam spillway gate under construction in 1936.

MAGIC I july 2012 I 39

MONTANA PERSPECTIVES

legends

Aerial view of the slide that occurred Sept. 22, 1938. Six workers were entombed inside the Dam.

Tunnel intake structure, now under 200 feet of water. 1936

The most-photographed spot was Ruby Red’s, a beer hall and dance parlor named after its proprietor, Ruby Smith, who learned how to run a business during previous stops in Miles City and the Klondike. Ruby Red’s, like many taverns, hired women as “taxi dancers,” so called because they could be hired to dance with no further expectations. The women were paid a nickel for each beer they induced a man to buy. No western boomtown would be complete without prostitutes, who in this case lived and worked nearby in the quaintly named, Happy Hollow.

Only one photo showed men actually building the dam: a posed shot of workers inside a giant steel liner built for the four diversion tunnels then being drilled through miles of Montana shale. There were no photos

of the earthen dam itself. The overall effect was a highly stylized view of Montana, essentially a vision of the ways Easterners envisioned Montana.

Sensationalistic as it was, this view of Fort Peck Dam reflected the reality that the construction of the dam always had more to do with national concerns than local interests. The notoriously unpredictable Missouri River made navigation difficult and resulted in floods that caused millions of dollars in damage down the river all the way to Kansas City. Engineers envisioned a controlled and channeled Missouri River as part of a vast interior waterway connecting the Ohio, Mississippi and Missouri Rivers with the Great Lakes. But the cost for building a dam at Fort Peck in faraway eastern Montana was simply too great, until the nation entered the Great Depression. With one in four workers unemployed and drought-caused crop failures leaving many farmers unable to pay their mortgages, President Franklin Delano Roosevelt promised Americans a New Deal. In Montana that translated into a series of recovery and relief projects, which would stimulate the economy and harness natural resources to serve the public good.

The construction of Fort Peck Dam was by far the largest New Deal project in Montana. The Army Corps of Engineers designed a dam and supervised the flurry of activity. They immediately began to build the pumps, dredges and barges used to scoop sediment from the Missouri River, mix it with water and shoot it through a pipeline to form the core of the great dam. Four million tons of gravel came from surrounding Hi-Line communities. A million cubic yards of granite boulders for riprap on the surface of the dam came from the Snake Butte quarry. To transport materials across the Missouri River, the Corps built a “million

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40 I july 2012 I MAGIC

From an Alfred Hitchcock movie

July 6–July 22

July 27–August 12

August 17–Sept. 2

Season tickets available through May 27, 406-228-9216 Box Office: 406-526-9943 www.fortpecktheatre.org • Fort Peck, MT

Exclusively available at Workers using grouting machine in tunnel #2. 1936

dollar” bridge. Working day and night, workers carved four large tunnels through three miles of Montana shale to divert the Missouri’s water while the dam went up. Electricity to power the entire operation came all the way from Great Falls by way of a specially constructed power line. At its peak, construction at Fort Peck employed more than 10,000 men, making it one of the largest projects in the nation.

As workers flocked to the construction site, they lived with their families in the boomtowns that so interested the national media.

Although the government built barracks for single men who worked at the project, most workers were married and brought their families with them to their new jobs. The largest of the boomtowns was Wheeler, which at its peak housed 3,500 people and supported 65 businesses. The town had no water or sanitation system, and temperatures down to 50 degrees below zero meant that the thin-walled shacks could have a fire in a stove at one side of the house, while ice formed on the wall of the other side.

Yet, in this world of extremes, Wheeler boasted churches, a school, several laundries, two sawmills, a 700-bed hospital, recreation center, town hall, ice skating rinks, even recreational basketball leagues.

While the bustling boomtowns provided temporary shelter and plentiful diversions, work at the dam was often difficult and sometimes dangerous. On Sept. 22, 1938, workers in the morning noticed that a part of the earthen fill had slumped a few feet. That afternoon, while workers and engineers were surveying the problem, 5 million cubic yards of earth, about 5 percent of the dam, suddenly slid into the rising reservoir. The slide carried machinery and men into the swirling mud and water. Eight men died. Although 60 workers lost their lives during the seven years of dam construction, the most haunting casualties are the six workers who were never found and whose bodies remain entombed inside the dam.

By 1940 the project was complete, and the shantytowns lasted only as long as the jobs. Still, the project had accomplished an important goal beyond the control of the wild Missouri: it had generated hope during a particularly hard time. One dam worker remembered that it “gave the people more courage.” People felt that government was “doing something for us” and allowed themselves to think that “maybe everything’s going to work out.”

Today the work crews are gone. The dam’s multiple purposes—flood control, navigation, electrical generation, recreation—compete with each other for the scarce water of the Missouri. Optimism about governmental benevolence has faded with the changing times. What remains is the massive dam and the 124-mile lake that it backs up, permanent reminders of a massive federal jobs project and the only human alteration of the Montana landscape that can be seen from outer space.

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406.252.9499 1414 10th St. W. • Billings 1/2 Block North of Grand Ave. on 10th St. W. MAGIC I july 2012 I 41

MONTANA PERSPECTIVES

photo journal

Workers installing a gate section at the spillway. 1937 42 I july 2012 I MAGIC

“Before American men and women get through with this job, we are going to make every ounce and every gallon of water that falls from the Heaven and the hills count before it makes its way down to the Gulf of Mexico.”

— President Franklin D. Roosevelt, from his address at the Fort Peck Dam , 1934

­­­

Fort Peck Dam Pride of the New Deal

The construction of Fort Peck Dam – one of the largest projects under the New Deal – took seven years to complete. The Army Corps of Engineers kept a meticulous photographic journal throughout every phase of construction.

Here are a few of the hundreds of images that were recorded. Photos courtesy of the Fort Peck Interpretive Center.

The steel lined tunnel #1. 1937

MAGIC I july 2012 I 43

MONTANA PERSPECTIVES

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Workers replacing worn cutterhead on dredge Jefferson. 1936

Aerial of the dam in 1936 prior to reservoir forming and closure of thr river section of the dam.

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Following the Flotsam

By Gene Colling • Illustration by Lee Hulteng

For most of my life I had both feet firmly planted on landlocked landscapes.

Then, I had my first encounter with the Oregon coast, and I widened my stance. A tip from my sister led me to Manzanita, a tourist town that bustles in the summer but was dormant in the shoulder season. A stone’s throw from the ocean, this would be my aquatic asylum for the next few days.

Part of the allure of the ocean was the fact that I knew hardly anything about the environment. The ebb and flow of the tide was a mystery. The flora and fauna were unfamiliar to me, and sparked a need to know what I was looking at and walking on.

I found a nice rental and was rewarded The gulls that with one of the driest, sunniest months on record.

As a landlubber, I quickly learned the habituated the importance of reading the tide table. It is critical to town beach were know the cycle of high and low tides and respect the power and unpredictable nature of ocean a haggard lot. waves. On my first hike while walking at the edge of the waves, a much stronger wave suddenly bore They looked down on me. I scrambled away doing an awkward disheveled impression of a high-stepping drum major.

I learned that the best time for a long and had jaded beach hike is when the tide is going out. The sand attitudes. Their is compacted for easy walking and ocean treasures are often exposed. By treasures, I mean things like features were sea shells, agates, sand dollars, drift wood and whatever is tossed or falls off ships at sea. tattered, and

I like using a staff when I hike, and it many walked comes in handy for examining plants and animals that may be toxic. Some sea creatures would like with a limp, nothing more than inflict a painful lesson on a which I assumed Montana landlubber. Once the shore was covered with gelatinous blobs of jelly fish, the ocean version was an acquired of cow pies.

After a couple days of hiking to the begging trait. jetty six miles away, I began to discern some patterns. About 90 percent of the human activity was confined to a small section of beach adjacent to the town. As I moved farther out, footprints diminished and the pickings got better. After five miles, I felt like Columbus.

The change I saw also applied to bird life. The ubiquitous seagulls went through a drastic transformation. The gulls that habituated the

46 I july 2012 I MAGIC

town beach were a haggard lot. They looked disheveled and had jaded attitudes. Their features were tattered, and many walked with a limp, which I assumed was an acquired begging trait. Their diet was mostly junk food and like the humans who fed them, they suffered the ill effects.

Away from town near the jetty, the gulls were fierce and efficient predators. They rarely missed a meal opportunity; I have only seen one crab make it to the shore alive and intact. It was furiously digging into the sand to hide itself until the next tide would take it back to the ocean.

Thinking I was doing a good thing, I pulled it out of the sand and threw it back into the surf. From out of nowhere a gull swooped down pounced on the crab, shredding it in seconds. I still feel twinges of guilt about that.

What impresses me most about sea gulls is their ability to communicate with each other. On a brilliant day, I climbed Neahkanie Mountain outside of Manzanita. Using binoculars, I saw a distant crab boat working, followed by the usual contingent of gulls. The boat must have dumped its bait because I could see a line of seagulls suddenly heading out from the shore to join the feast. It baffled me how the gull mojo line could spread the word so fast and so far. Seagulls can posse up for food faster than any bird I’ve seen.

Over time I became a seasoned beachcomber. Beachcombers look for two things – what the ocean produces and what humans produce. Every high tide leaves behind a trail of flotsam that has made it through the breakers. It was this line I would follow looking for things like driftwood, crab pot floats, salmon fishing gear or pirate treasure. No pirate treasure has washed up in my path yet, but it’s the beachcomber version of the lottery.

Since that first trip I have returned six more times. I look forward to getting out where the wild sea gulls prowl and every tide brings in new possibilities At best, I could be called a “neo-salty.” I still have my feet planted in Montana, but I sometimes like to feel the sand beneath my toes following the flotsam line.

Gene Colling claims dual residency in both Billings and Missoula.

He recently retired after a career with the U.S. Forest Service. For 25 of those years, he produced video programs including ones on such Billings area topics as the Beartooth Highway, Pryor Mountain wild horses, Lewis and Clark expedition, Hebgen Lake earthquake and Nez Perce Trail.

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TRAVELOGUE

beyond billings

Blue Highw

By JIM GRANSBERY

They are byways for which no one has time.

Two-lane, narrow stretches of asphalt that meander through canyons, valleys, deserts and parks, they expose landscapes tinged with Georgia O’Keeffe’s chalks. In the West, they are tendrils clasping rural areas to civilization. They tell tales of life before Interstates bypassed their memories; ushers for the grand tour of a time more measured.

On old road maps – “blue highways.”

Rand McNally used narrow blue to designate secondary routes; main thoroughfares red.

Now, back road shades depend on cartographer’s whimsy. Regardless of hue, they are roads less traveled versus frenetic need to get somewhere.

In 1982, William Least HeatMoon published his American travelogue Blue Highways. He circumnavigated the country to find the America of his ideals. He found it in Remote, Oregon, Dime Box, Texas and Shelby, Montana. He set the bar for road trips.

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ways

MAGIC I july 2012 I 49

TRAVELOGUE

beyond billings

1.

2.

3.

4.

Previous Page: Zion National Park. Above: 1. Blooming cacti at the Phoenix Desert Botanical Garden. 2.Ancient cliff dwelling in Gila, New Mexico.

3. Magnificent spires in Bryce Canyon National Park, UT. 4. VLA Radio Telescopes posted in the New Mexico desert. Photos 1-3 courtesy Jim Gransbery.

Fond memories of West Texas in spring festered a desire this year to explore the southwest’s attractions that avoided the clogged convenience of Interstates. To wander, to find destinations determined by happenstance at the end of the day: Kanab, Tombstone, Silver City, Socorro, Fruita. The journey, graced by mild weather, began in late March on U.S. 191 headed south.

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Avoid Gallatin Canyon in tourist season. The early off-season offers visuals of the land awakening. Bison halted sparse traffic near West Yellowstone where a young French couple reviewed their plans to hike the United States for 10 months. Oh, the envy for that freedom. The omens are perfect.

Interstate is solely a bridge to the next “blue.” At Nephi, Utah, the trek diverts with Bryce Canyon the goal. Lunch stop at Circleville in the Long Valley reveals a monument to its children in every U.S. conflict from WW I to Afghanistan. One family had a soldier in every war since 1917.

Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks stand sentinel on each side of U.S. 89 in southern Utah. Weather-whittled for millions of years, these stone monoliths are clad in brilliant reds and yellows – polarized sunglasses mandatory for vivid contrast. Slow is the rule for winding through Zion.

Taking 89A south of Kanab swings by Vermillion Cliffs, another visual feast just inside Arizona border.

“Standing on the Corner in Winslow, Arizona,” is a remnant of Route 66. Nostalgia for the Eagles and the highway oozes from the pavement.

U.S. 87 sneaks into Phoenix from the northeast, but the run to the sun has some urgency, so the Interstate from Flagstaff leads to the ballpark on time for another ritual – Spring Training.

To understand the desert’s flora, one must know which cacti flourish at what elevation. A day at Desert Botanical Garden is mandatory. Early warmth/water pushed succulents to bloom gloriously, laden with color.

Special exhibits of butterflies punctuated the walkabout.

The path now becomes true blue. Sonoita sits at the junction of Highways 83 and 82. In nearby hills are monastic hideaways. Tombstone lies 35 miles east where the local sarsaparilla never sweetened the lips of Doc Holliday and Big Nose Kate. A tourist trap! Public history is sold for private profit. O.K. Corral is not okay, but the prospector down the street who cached some Bisbee turquoise is. Copper content is high and blue as

the sky. Bisbee, itself, is anchored into goatsteep hillsides; the pit languishes awaiting reclamation. Roadside editorial billboard states: “Free Trade Policy – Drugs in – Billions Out.” A sidewinder road writhes 44 miles north of Silver City, New Mexico into the Gila Wilderness, taking two hours. It leads to a switchback path a mile up a narrow gulch to cliff dwellings where 40 to 60 Mogollons lived for about 25 years then disappeared around 1300. The stone work is their only testament.

Five hundred years later, Geronimo was born in a nearby canyon.

The roundabout route from Silver City to Socorro is a left-handed knuckleball curve in the shadows of postcard Mogollon Mountains.

Huge washes emanate from the foothills, sculpting colossal columns of color bracing the 10,000-foot peaks.

Descending to high plains, a cluster of space vehicles are parked in a field. New Mexico is famous for alien visitors, but Roswell is hundreds of miles that-away. The VLA (Very Large Array) Radio Telescope listens for whispers at the edge of the universe.

The 27, 230-ton dish antenna, positioned on rails, target astronomer projects as near as the Milky Way; as far as creation. A self-guided

walking tour is perfect if the Jovian winds subside.

Nothing defines “Southwest” like O’Keeffe’s art. Museum in Sante Fe is must see where a guard recommends the Abiqui Inn for the night. Forty miles north, a cosy adobe with patio tinkling fountain – echo of Granada memories – summons slumber in the moonlight. Her secluded studio sits across the way.

Farmers, architects, engineers. The inhabitants of Mesa Verde, west of Durango, Colorado about 30 miles, were all three and then some. In cliffs above 7,000 feet, the Ancestral Puebloans created a culture in isolation. Abandoned around 1300, the previous two centuries were a golden age of creativity – baskets, pottery, tools and religious ceremony.

Highway 139 from Loma to Rangely, Colorado, over Douglas Pass at 8,200 feet is beyond blue. It is beautiful, breezy and rough.

U.S. 191 now leads north toward historic paths. South Pass in southeast Wyoming was a convergence for the Oregon, California and Mormon trails and the Pony Express. Talk about a high way. It is snowing and blowing.

Spring time in the Rockies.

It’s time to head home.

Southwest Gems Finding food is easy. It’s where locals dine.

It’s cheap and quality assured by patrons who know. n In Douglas, Arizona, carnitas at Chatitas is Mexican fare at its best. The “little meats” tacos, tingled with lime, are pure sustenance. The girl at the pinata store gave exact directions. n On the north side of Saliz Pass in western New Mexico, a sign on the back wall read: “If you are looking for fast food, McDonald’s is 60 miles down the road.”

The Adobe Café and Bakery serves “the best cinnamon rolls in the world” along with a correctly bitter cappuccino. The owners left Cincinnati for a slower-paced life. n A wrong turn onto a side street in Fruita, Colorado found the Hot Tomato Café. Ellen, who defines the title, is in charge. She’ll recommend the food, drink and share risque stickers that proclaim her philosophy of life: “We snatch kisses.”

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TRAVELOGUE

beyond billings

Spiritualism in the desert

By JIM GRANSBERY For thousands of years, those yearning God’s voice have sought desolation to discern the difference between wind and the Spirit’s whisper. All traditions have mystics hidden in the outback where they seek the One.

Kivas are the subterranean circular rooms of the pre-pueblo and pueblo culture found throughout the Southwest...

In these darkened grottos, the spiritual heritage of the tribes was inculcated through oral tradition. In their silence, one can hear faint chanted echoes.

TRAVELOGUE

beyond billings

Her (Georgia O’Keeffe’s) vision sensed that this was a creative enclave. An epiphany in 1908 revealed to the budding artist that technique was but half the equation; emotive spirit was the other.

Previious page: Photo by Justin Reznick. Red and magenta badlands rise into the blue sky with green juniper trees below. Such beautiful scenery can be found in the land of Georgia O’ Keefe at Ghost Ranch,Abiquiu New Mexico. Photo by Amygdala Imagery.

Flawed directions contain surprises. Sonoita, Arizona is 30 miles from the border and the Patrol is ubiquitous. To find the Trappistines “take the Casa Blanca Canyon Road, cross two dry washes and take a right at Benedict Lane.” The walled retreat is a mile up a dusty track. Greeted by a pack of dogs of various breed and size behind a sturdy iron gate, the howling fetched Brother Pachomius, whose namesake was an original Desert Father.

The nuns live on the other side of the village going back north, he explained.

He and two other monks rescue dogs and train them to serve.

Backtracking. St. Rita Abbey sits on a low bluff facing the east. Arriving in time for Vespers, Sister Kate greets the “wanderers.” Shakinah is the Hebrew feminine word for the indwelling of the Lord and the exterior visage of joy.

Her face is radiant. She expresses her deep love for the testaments of St. John and promises prayers for a successful journey. The dozen Cistercian nuns here bake altar breads for a living. Austerity and plain chant is the norm.

The mesquite log altar was cut and polished by one of the 12.

For traditionalist Catholics, Holy Week in Deming, New Mexico is an option to the Holy Land. It is Palm Sunday and Fr. Enrique Lopez Escalera is a pastor in his prime. Statuary is clothed in mourning purple and the priest is exhorting his flock to engage in the rituals of the week which includes a cross-bearing ceremony for all. His homily vigorously confronts the power of the Evil One. Is this site holy? It’s called Trinity. It is where the power particles of the universe were unleashed. Southeast of Socorro, N.M., visitors are permitted twice a year to stand at the spot where the first atomic bomb was detonated.

J. Robert Oppenheimer, the nuclear physicist who built the bomb, recalled his Sanscrit Vedic texts that day in 1945: “I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.” That is first person, singular, present – another definition of God Painter Georgia O’Keeffe’s home at Abiqui, New Mexico was a derelict

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she bought from the Catholic Church for $10 in 1945. Her vision sensed that this was a creative enclave. An epiphany in 1908 revealed to the budding artist that technique was but half the equation; emotive spirit was the other.

Abiqui is home, too, to penitentes, who scourge themselves for forgiveness.

A few miles up the highway is the Rancho de Los Brujos – Ranch of the Male Witches – but less frighteningly translated, Ghost Ranch, explains her biographer, Roxana Robinson. This is where O’Keeffe collected sunbleached bones that became icons of her desert scenes. Ghost Ranch today is owned by the Presbyterian Church, which uses it for retreats and conferences, the landscape inducing tranquility rather than brush-stroke fervor. It also houses a museum of pueblo pottery tracing the development of the unique designs that reflects the Indian spirituality.

Ty Vicenti is vice president of the Jicarilla Apache at Dulce, N.M. He was 18 in 1968 when the Cistercian monk Thomas Merton visited during the tribe’s fall festival. Merton participated in the Go-Jii-Ya, witnessing the ritual foot-race between the boys of the Red Clan versus the White Clan. Merton was seeking a site in the West for the foundation of a new monastery, but he died a Zen death three months later in Thailand. Vicenti likes to remind people that the Jicarilla do not have a religion in the conventional sense, but rather “a spiritual way of life’ that infuses their whole culture. The Jicarilla welcome visitors to witness, not photograph, the Go-Jii-Ya in September, he says. His good-bye was an Apache blessing.

Kivas are the subterranean circular rooms of the pre-pueblo and pueblo culture found throughout the Southwest. It appears that initially the cliff dwellers had kivas for each family group and later they developed into a more communal ritual center. In these darkened grottos, the spiritual heritage of the tribes was inculcated through oral tradition. In their silence, one can hear faint chanted echoes.

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Water: 56 I july 2012 I MAGIC

:

A common thread that makes us all neighbors

By Dan Carter • Photography by Larry Mayer

At its most basic and molecular level, it’s two parts hydrogen and one part oxygen. But with enough covalent bonds connecting those atoms, water comes to life.

And, in these parts, water is life.

Pictured: Confluence of the Bighorn (right) and Yellowstone near Custer. Photo by Larry Mayer MAGIC I july 2012 I 57

Pumped from the heart of the Yellowstone River, water runs through the veins of the region’s agricultural, recreational and industrial economy. It also feeds the needs of more than 100,000 residents and, over time, has turned a historically semi-arid region into the largest cultural, retail, medical and financial hub in the region.

Our relationship with water is a characteristic of living in the semiarid Western high plains. Too much of it — through floods or heavy rain — and we worry. Too little of it — in times of drought — and we worry.

Even the concept of “saving” water is different in the West. Those who live east of the Mississippi view wasting water as using too much; those in the West see wasting water as not using all you are allowed.

Water in Montana belongs to the state and is an ownership that exists on behalf of all citizens as delineated in the Montana Constitution. Article IX, Section 3 states “[a]ll surface, underground, flood, and atmospheric waters within the boundaries of the state are the property of the state for the use of its people…”

Because Montana waters belong to the state, water rights holders do not own the water itself. Instead, they possess a right to use the water, within state guidelines.

Since water is a shared resource that is allocated and not owned, when people talk about water, there is a collective sense of ownership and angst. And when it comes to the Billings region, the focus is largely on the

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Yellowstone River.

“Management of the shared resources of the Yellowstone River is complicated work,” a report on cultural aspects of the river noted in 2006. “Federal and state interests compete with one another, and they compete with local and private endeavors.

Legal rights to the water are sometimes in conflict with newly defined needs, and,

by Montana law, the public is guaranteed access to the river even though 84 percent of the riverbank is privately owned.”

Simply put, water is a complex issue and, like the Yellowstone itself, engenders some free-flowing discussion.

Water works Everyone in the Yellowstone County region, whether they want to grow sugar beets, keep the lawn green or have safe water to bathe their baby, has certain expectations for water.

David Mumford is the guy who manages those expectations for the city of Billings. As public works director, he is charged with making sure streets are fixed, sewer lines are working properly and ensuring the city is doing its work providing, treating and managing its water.

The key, in Mumford’s perspective, is working with various constituents who have various needs.

“We have been working on an integrated water plan not because of a shortage issue, but because we are looking for better ideas on how to handle water,” Mumford says.

The city provides clean water and water treatment services to

“We have been working on an integrated water plan not because of a shortage issue, but because we are looking for better ideas on how to handle water,” ­ —David Mumford, Billings Public Works Director approved by the Montana Water Court.

The settlement would give the city rights to 172 cubic feet per second of Yellowstone River water, which translates to roughly 111 million gallons of water a day. Current average daily water production is 33.4 cfs, or 21.5 million gallons. While that is significant, what the city pulls from the Yellowstone is relatively small. Mumford said the 83-year median flow of the Yellowstone River at Billings is about 21,500 cfs, which means the proposed allocation of 172 cfs for the city is approximately only 2 percent of the median river volume.

That means a lot of water stays in the river for Ripple effects irrigating fields, watering Mumford, who has livestock, recreation, been with the city for 11 wildlife survival and years, said keeping up David Mumford , photo by Casey Page other civic uses further with a growing demand down the river. means a strategic, welldeveloped plan on infrastructure replacement The balancing act has long been recognized, that not only serves the needs of the city, but but only recently quantified. also meets ever-changing state requirements on wastewater discharge and treatment.

Stewards and students That plan is one tool that helps the city plan its Dr. Susan Gilbertz, an assistant professor future. Another is allocated rights. of environmental studies at Montana State This past spring, a major step was taken to University Billings, completed a “cultural complete a 30-year legal process that will allocate inventory” of the more than 600 miles of the formal water rights to the city. The claim will give Yellowstone River in 2006. The study included the city perpetual rights to enough water from more than 300 interviews with various the Yellowstone River to sustain a population of constituents — farmers, ranchers, city leaders, 500,000. recreationists, American Indian leaders — “It brings a level of certainty,” Mumford said. about their connection to the river.

The city laid claim to its water rights in 1981, While many of the interests and issues are fulfilling requirements of a state law passed in complex and often divisive — from philosophy 1973. Those who originally contested the city’s of using rip-rap to the politics and practicalities “first in time, first in right” claim — the Bureau of river access to the environmental of Reclamation and the Crow Tribe — have issues — there was a single thread that signed off on an agreement settling the claim. flowed through all groups, the report said.

The final step will be having the settlement “Of greatest clarity across all groups is this more than 25,000 households and businesses every minute of every day and has done so continuously since 1915. Today, the city processes 8.5 billion gallons of drinking water annually, and demand continues to grow, according to Mumford.

While the city serves some large customers (refineries, hospitals, etc.,) the biggest demand comes from residential users and peaks in summer months. The average residential summer water usage is 20,900 gallons per month, which is almost four times the 5,600 gallons per month used in the winter.

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“Of greatest clarity across all groups is this notion: the Yellowstone River is the single, most important natural resource of southern and eastern Montana,” ­

— Dr. Susan Gilbertz

notion: the Yellowstone River is the Livingston. single, most important natural resource The council is made up of southern and eastern Montana,” of representatives from 12 Gilbertz wrote in discussing the conservation districts bordering implications of the cultural inventory. the main stem of the Yellowstone And even though her comments are River and has 60 years of experience based on overriding observations, they working on the local level on are not meant as summaries, but as a conservation and water use issues. foundation for resource managers and The council primarily focuses on others to understand the challenges that bank stabilization (310 permitting lie ahead. issues); irrigation water impacts and Educational opportunities, Gilbertz availability; livestock, grazing and wrote, lie in explaining the subtleties farming issues; and water quality of riparian habitat along the river, and stream impairment.

Dr. Susan Gilbertz, Photo by James Woodcock especially in terms of the relationship between flooding and the overall health of the ecosystem. There is also an Full stream ahead opportunity for the research to guide discussions in the future between all McClain said attention to water issues and the overall health of the users of the river. river rises and falls with current events, such as the pipeline break and The full report is part of the resource database of the Yellowstone oil spill in the Yellowstone last summer or flood years when reviews are River Conservation District Council (www.yellowstonerivercouncil.org/ needed for stream stabilization. dev/resources.php) and is among the tools used by users to make policy “There are many needs, from irrigation to fish passage,” she said. decisions, said Nicole McClain, the council’s coordinator who lives in “People need to realize the river is dynamic; it moves and changes and

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For Mumford and a growing urban area, the challenges are just as dynamic. Over the course of the past three decades, the city has grown to the north and the west. The low-lying western edge of Billings was once farmland and even wetlands in areas. As that farmland was sold, subdivided and used for housing, business and retail space, the ebb and flow of annual flood irrigation cycles was removed. As a result, the underlying aquifer that was recharged by irrigation processes has had its own stresses and, over time, has been reduced. Mumford is working on ideas to utilize small area streams and springs in new ways. He is also thinking about the possibility of regional water treatment plants that can coordinate with Laurel or Park City as Billings continues to grow to the west.

“Water is a precious commodity and we really have to be careful in how we use it,” he said, adding “Billings can control growth with water. Billings is going to continue to grow and how we use it can be a factor in how we attract people.”

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Water flows from the Wastewater Treatment Plant. Photo by Casey Page

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There are 15 reservoirs and 11 pump stations in Billings.

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There are 447 miles of water lines and 466 miles of sewer lines in Billings.

•

Billings has 32,500 wastewater and 29,500 city water customers.

•

The city processes 5.8 million gallons of sewer annually.

•

The city process 8.5 million gallons of water annually.

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Consumers pay $0.25 per 100 gallons processed and delivered.

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Average monthly residential water use is 11,000 gallons/month.

In Montana

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Average monthly residential sewer use is 5,900 gallons/month.

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LIQUID ASSETS

REAL-LIFE WATER PARKS By Karen Kinser

Water speaks a seductive language. Sometimes it translates into the thrill of flying across the surface on water skis behind a speeding power boat. Other times it’s the soothing soliloquy of waves slapping against the side of a canoe.

With more than 3,200 named lakes and reservoirs in our splendid state, you could spend a lifetime exploring them all. But we’ve done a little work for you, and narrowed it down to five spectacular spots – three for the Wet ‘N’ Wild set and two for those who prefer their water experiences a little more soothing and serene.

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non-camp lodging is in Sheridan, Wyo., where you’ll find a wide array of accommodations.

Location: Six miles north of the town of Decker, on Secondary Route 314, and then one mile east on the County Road.

Park Phone: 406.757.2298.

Website:http://stateparks.mt.gov/parks/visit/ tongueRiverReservoir/.

Tongue River Reservoir. Photo by Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks

WET ‘N’ WILD: Services: Boat launch (2) Campsites with fire pits Vault toilets RV dump station Picnic shelter Fish cleaning station Marina store (six days a week) Boat rentals

Activities: Boating Camping Fishing Picnicking Water skiing Wildlife viewing Wind surfing

TONGUE RIVER RESERVOIR In the southeastern prairie part of the state, you might be surprised to find a 12-mile long reservoir – the Tongue River – with an abundance of water sports. But it’s no surprise to the more than 50,000 visitors that drop by each year to enjoy this State Park’s incredible array of outdoor recreation, set amidst red shale and junipertreed canyons.

Recreation: With 12 miles of water, you know you’re going to want to rev

Camping

up the jet ski, strap on a pair of water skis or just zip up and down the length of the lake. You can also go swimming, or try your hand at fishing for bass, walleye, crappies and northern pike, and maybe catch The Big One – four state record fish have been pulled from these waters. And don’t forget tubing and wakeboarding.

Lodging & Dining: The Park has 106 campsites, 40 of them with electrical hook-ups. The closest

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FORT PECK RESERVOIR & RECREATION AREA. This place is big. At 134 miles long, it holds the largest body of water Services: in the state, is the fifthInterpretive Center largest man-made lake in Dam and power plant museum the U.S. and the largest Boat launches hydraulically-filled Boat & other dam in the country watercraft rentals (and celebrating its 75th Fishing rentals anniversary this year). Add Fishing guides Marina to that the 1,520 miles of Campgrounds shoreline – longer, even, than the California coast – Activities: and you’re in for some bigBoating time wet ‘n’ wild fun.

Fishing

cadebillings@umary.edu • (406) 256–1738 3320 2nd Avenue North, Billings, MT 59501

Picnicking Recreation: With a lake Water skiing and this large, you’ll want to other water sports spend time boating, waterBirding skiing and fishing, for sure.

Wildlife viewing There are 50 different kinds of fish in the lake including Chinook salmon, lake trout, paddlefish, northern pike, sauger, small mouth bass and walleye. The main access (and paved) road to the reservoir is via the Fort Peck Marina (west end of the

Fort Peck Reservoir. Photo by Gazette Staff

dam). You can rent a variety of boats – including pontoons, fishing boats and even houseboats – at the marina or launch your own boat at one of the boat ramps. Don’t miss a drive across the top of the Dam to realize the full scope of the project and see the Art Deco powerhouses; then visit the Fort Peck Interpretive Center to learn more about the dam building and the natural history of the area.

Lodging and Dining. Lodging options run the gamut from primitive campsites at the 11 recreation areas around the Lake to more upscale campsites at Kiwanis Park and the Downstream Campground.

In the nearby town of Fort Peck, you can stay at the Fort Peck Hotel, a registered historic site with furnishings reminiscent of the years around 1939, when the hotel was built.

Location: Take Route 87 north to Highway 200.

Follow that east to Highway 24, which will take you

to Fort Peck.

Websites: http://attractions.uptake.com/ montana/fort_peck/514290818.html CANYON FERRY, HAUSER & HOLTER For a trifecta of play and pleasure, these three reservoirs form a wonderful watery playground.

All three are clustered near Helena.

C a nyon Ferry Lake is the largest of the three (and the third largest body of water in the state) with more than Photo by Donnie Sexton

35,000 water acres. Fifteen miles downstream from Canyon Ferry lies Hauser Dam and its smaller lake (3,200 water acres). About 40 miles north of Helena, you’ll find the 24-mile long Holter Lake. All three areas share the Missouri River and an abundance of outdoor recreational opportunities.

Services: Recreation: Snugged up next to the Big Belt Mountains, Canyon Ferry Lake is popular for outstanding boating, water-skiing, jet-skiing, fishing, picnicking, camping, swimming and wildlife watching.

Managed by the BLM, the area has 24 recreation sites and three marina concessions (Kim’s, Yacht Basin and Goose Bay Marinas) that offer boat launching, camping, rental docks and food items.

Trout, ling, walleye and perch can be caught in

Visitor Center (Canyon Ferry) Boat launches Boat & other watersports rentals Fishing rentals Marinas Campgrounds Boat tour (Gates of the Mountains)

Activities: Boating Camping Fishing Picnicking Water skiing and other water sports Birding Wildlife viewing

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Holter Lake. Photo by Larry Mayer

the Lake. Fishing is also great at Hauser Lake, where you’ll find walleye, perch, rainbow and brown trout, as well as Kokanee salmon. And, like Canyon Ferry, all types of boating, water-skiing and swimming are popular at Hauser. Holter Lake may be best known for its majestic beauty because behind its dam lies the canyon gorges known as the Gates of the Mountains.

Lodging and Dining: There are a multitude of campgrounds at all three areas, with Canyon Ferry having the widest variety, as well as convenience stores.

Helena is a short distance from all three locations, where a wealth of lodging and outstanding dining can be found.

Location: Canyon Ferry is about 20 miles east of Helena. Hauser Lake is seven miles north of Helena on I-15. To access Holter Lake, take either Exit 226 (Wolf Creek) or Exit 234 (Craig) from I-15.

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Beartooth Lake. Photo by Gazette Staff.

S OO T H I N G AND SERENE BEARTOOTH LAKE Take a drive on the AllAmerican Beartooth Highway to Beartooth Lake.

On the way, you’ll twist and turn through alpine meadows undulating with carpets of wildflowers, past glacial lakes and churning waterfalls and through an array of ecosystems, wildlife and birdlife.

Arrive at the serenity and beauty of Beartooth Lake,

Services: Campgrounds Boat launch Water Restrooms Trails

Activities: No-wake boating Camping Fishing Hiking Picnicking Birding Wildlife viewing

Recreation: Boating, fishing, hiking – and relaxing – are the favored recreational activities at this serene site, where even cell service is nonexistent. The lake is a cozy size, at 100 acres, and stays quiet with only no-wake boating permitted, so a canoe or kayak are great options here. You’re in the wilds and in grizzly bear company, so keep your food secure. Come prepared with bear bells, bear spray, mosquito repellant and a wide array of clothing. At 9,000 feet, the weather can make drastic changes in a short time frame.

Lodging and Dining: Your only choice of lodging at the Lake is a 21-site campground, but a few miles up the road, at the Top of the World, you can rent one of their four motel rooms. Or, drive about 25 miles toward Yellowstone and stay in Cooke City, where a wide variety of motels, bed and breakfasts, cabin rentals and guest ranches are available.

Fishing

Lodging and Dining: Hiking Camping is your only on- Picnicking Birding site lodging option with Wildlife viewing Hood Creek and Chisholm Campgrounds located next to the reservoir and close to trailheads, and Langhor Campground sited along Hyalite Creek. There are also forest service cabins to rent in the area. With Bozeman so close by, your accommodations and dining options seem almost endless.

T

L

C

ie

its glass-like surface reflecting the striated desert colors of Beartooth Butte that looms above and frames the Lake.

Lin ger

Wildlife watching at Beartooth Lake. Gazette Staff

electric trolling motors are welcome. Other water sports include paddle boarding and swimming.

Fishing is popular, too, with brook trout, Yellowstone cutthroat and arctic grayling being pulled from these waters. Bikers love a trip along the Canyon Road, which parallels Hyalite Creek, or down the Services: abandoned logging roads Campgrounds into Sourdough Canyon. Boat launch Avid hikers will enjoy the 10 Water waterfalls along the Hyalite Restrooms Peak Trail, as well as the trails Trails to Grotto Falls, Palisade Falls Activities: and Emerald, Heather and No-wake boating Blackmore Lakes.

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Location: Beartooth Lake is about 42 miles from Red Lodge, via Highway 212.

Websites: http://www. beartoothhighway.com http://topoftheworldresort. com http://www. cookecitychamber.org/ HYALITE RESERVOIR Just a hop, skip, and a jump from Bozeman, you’ll find the lovely Hyalite Reservoir. Located in the Gallatin Mountains, the reservoir sits at the apex of the stunning 34,000-acre Hyalite Canyon. It’s a little hidden piece of paradise, surrounded by streams, waterfalls and 10,000-foot Hyalite Reservoir. Gazette Staff peaks.

Location: Hyalite Reservoir is located 17 miles south Recreation: Boating, fishing, camping, hiking of Bozeman. Go seven miles south on 19th Avenue to and wildlife watching are the slowed-down activities Fowler Lane (also known as Hyalite Canyon Road). of choice at the Reservoir. The Reservoir also has a Continue 10.5 miles on Fowler to Forest Service Road no-wake rule so canoes, kayaks and boats with small 62. Follow that half a mile to the Reservoir.

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It is a poster “Big Sky” day in Billings. It will likely hit 90, and there are fewer than a handful of wispy clouds in the sky. Across the sandy beach at Lake Elmo, families gather on blankets and beach towels. The smell of sunscreen and the sound of children’s playful shrieks fill the air. But on the far end of the swimming area, about 40 feet from shore, small bubbles rise to the surface near a round, orange buoy. While the bubbles seem insignificant, the constant gurgle depicts life below. On the shore, two people holding clipboards watch the bubbles and buoys while occasionally glancing at their watches. They are “tending” to two dive teams and a trainer about 11 feet underwater.

DEEP WATER

GUARDIANS 70 I july 2012 I MAGIC

by brenda maas • photography by david grubbs

Clockwise from top left: Divers use colored balloons to mark the rescue area. A couple observes rescue training. Members of the U.S. Water Rescue Team pull a line from Lake Elmo during training exercises.

Diver checks his snorkel. Divers perform a mock rescue at Lake Elmo.

U.S. Water Rescue Dive Team logo on truck.

MAGIC I july 2012 I 71

The scene seems strange to most. But to the members of the U.S. Water Rescue Dive Team (USWRDT), this is rote practice, the necessary drills that they execute again and again to prepare them for any call.

And that call may come at any time, from any place.

Shane Weinreis, founder and leader of nonprofit USWRDT, notes “Most people assume that we are affiliated with and funded by someone—the state, the county, some agency— but we are not. We are all volunteers.”

While team numbers fluctuate, it currently includes one woman and nine men. Membership is, according to Weinreis, restricted by funding and pool/training location limitations.

USWRDT members are considered special service deputies for Yellowstone County.

Neither the county, nor the City of Billings, retains rescue personnel with the same highlevel public safety diver certification as the volunteer dive team.

The USWRDT members come from all walks of life. Many are former military personnel, some may be active or former law enforcement officers, firemen or other emergency rescue workers. Others are local small business owners including a realtor and trucking company operator. Yet, they all have the same calling: using their dive experience and specialized training to be available for a swift water or flood rescue, working meticulously to recover evidence or searching for a drowned victim so the family may have a burial and closure for their loved one.

Systematic searches

“It is imperative that we have an accurate

What it takes Members of the U.S. Water Rescue Dive Team are highly-qualified, well beyond the average recreational diver. They methodically moved from recreational diver, to advanced openwater diver, to rescue diver, to public safety diver tender, to public safety diver. Weinreis notes that if someone worked full-time, it would take three months to reach this level. In addition, they must maintain a minimum of 65 dives each year to retain their certification.

For more information: www.waterrescue.org

72 I july 2012 I MAGIC

system in place,” Weinreis said of the training session at Lake Elmo. “People tend to think that divers go down and look around for evidence but conditions can make visibility poor to non-existent.”

He goes on to explain the manual search process in which two divers hold hands in a golf-like grip and slowly, deliberately scan the search area—which is strictly delineated by a rope, weight and buoy—with their other hand.

At the end, they swing about, with the former lead diver becoming the secondary diver and re-scan the area a second time for duplicate coverage.

They communicate by a code of hand squeezes. In this drill they practice looking for crime scene evidence—it may be as small as a pocket knife or as large as a safe.

By following a strict grid, Weinreis notes, “We can say that we have literally searched every square inch of the designated area.”

Dive tender, David Plourde, emphasizes, “This work is so critical. A crucial piece of evidence could be at stake.”

Marc Dean emerges after about 25 minutes in the water. After briefing about his remaining tank air, he tallies his finds: nine beer bottles, a tire, a pair of sunglasses, three beer cans, two tin cans, a tire rim, branches and debris, what appeared to be charcoal briquettes and two, plastic Army men. Not bad for an evidence recovery training drill.

Swift water The team takes a brief lunch break and heads down to Coulson Park to practice swift water rescues in the rushing Yellowstone River.

The location is a perfect scenario: Weinreis can quickly launch the powerful jet-boat; the water clips along at about 12 to 14 miles per hour; debris, from small branches to large trees, threaten anyone in its path; the mountainrunoff is likely only 40 degrees; snags of all sizes litter the river; and, the massive support pillars of the I-90 bridge provide immense hazards— but also a perfect eddy on the downstream side for a rescue.

The divers, who are outfitted with wetsuits, helmets, life jackets and flippers, take turns jumping into the river to be the “victim.” The

remaining team pilots, spots, instructs and manipulates into position for a seemingly effortless rescue. They run the drill repeatedly— rivers, especially swift water, are dynamic and can change at any moment. Weinreis wants to account for every scenario.

Next they practice, for the first time ever, using what is essentially a large kneeboard, to rescue one or multiple victims. Once again they take turns being the victim and then the rescuer. By the time Weinreis is satisfied with the team’s execution and the team is briefed and dismissed, these volunteers have literally put in

Montanans love their outdoors

Photo by Donnie Sexton

With more than 170,000 miles of rivers and streams, the recreational aquatic opportunities are immense. Unfortunately, the opportunities for accidents correlate.

According to 2010 Montana Vital Statistics, 21 Montanans—17 males and four females—died by drowning. A study published in the February, 2012, issue of Pediatrics, notes that boys are four to six times more likely than girls to suffer a drowning injury.

Nationally, between 30 to 50 percent of teen and adult drownings are caused, at least in part, by drinking alcohol. Many suspect that percentage is higher in Montana.

Education is the key to reducing drownings. USWRDT members often visit classrooms and other places to educate children about being safe around water, including always wearing a Coast Guardapproved personal floatation device (PFD) and not mixing alcohol with water recreation.

a day’s work—eight hours on a beautiful summer Sunday—anticipating a plethora of dangerous water situations.

Weinreis estimates that USWRDT receives 10 to 12 calls a year, but turns down another eight to 10 that are too far away to cover expenses like fuel and lodging. Of those calls, approximately 50 percent are for body recoveries. The remaining include about 25 percent for flood and swift water rescues, 15 percent for stand-by assistance and 10 percent for crime evidence recovery.

Stand-by assistance includes covering events like the recent Special Olympic Montana swim events and the increasingly popular Peaks to Prairie race. During the 2012 event, Weinreis estimates his team assisted nearly 40 kayakers out of potentially dangerous situations.

However, he notes that the body recoveries are the most difficult emotionally.

“The family may know that their loved one is gone, but in the back of their heads they are hoping that it’s all a bad dream, and he’s going to walk around the corner,” Weinreis says. “That can go on for weeks and even months, and it’s like reliving that death over and over again. They need closure.

That’s why we do what we do.”

Real Life Water Rescue Christi Brenna was pretty excited. It was her first team triathlon and her first Peaks to Prairie Adventure Race. The first two legs, a 9.3-mile run and a 49-mile bike ride, went well. Next up: canoeing 23 miles down the Yellowstone River, from Itch-Kep-Pe Park to the Buffalo Mirage Fishing Access.

Although Montana offered favorable spring conditions – lower water levels, little wind and temperatures in the mid-70s – roiling rapids along a large section of the river just above Park City posed its own challenge. Brenna and her race partner, Mike Booth, were not the only canoe team to spill in that area. In fact, they were just one team out of about a dozen that the U.S. Water Rescue Dive Team assisted during the event.

Booth and Brenna were separated after tipping and the USWRD team deployed rescue ropes to each and also used a motorized boat to gather their belongings downstream.

“We wore life jackets and are both accomplished swimmers,” noted Brenna.

“However, if the rescue team had not been there, it certainly could have been more stressful. The situation was somewhat minimized by the unusually nice Montana April day, however if the weather would have been more normal and we would have had more clothes on, getting out of the river would have been more difficult. Water and body temperature could have come into play.”

Brenna and Booth, with the rescue team’s swift assistance, gathered their belongings, emptied the water from their canoe and re-launched to finish the race.

“The rescue team did a great job in demonstrating calmness and confidence in what they were doing, which helped to make us, the rescue-ees, more comfortable,” noted Booth. “Their assistance to events like this is invaluable.”

MAGIC I july 2012 I 73

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s e r e n i t y o n t h e s t i l lwa t e r There is nothing still about the Stillwater River.

Born from melting snowpack and pristine mountain lakes, the icy water tumbles wildly out of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, snaking through canyons, forests and grasslands before surrendering into her sister, the Yellowstone.

Fly-fishers know her waters are ripe with rainbow, cutthroat and browns. Those who return season after season know something more: that the thrill of a catch is merely one instant in a larger, more fulfilling experience. Communion takes many forms.

For Gayle Whittenberg, the Stillwater River holds a particular reverence. A seasoned fly-fishing instructor and guide, Whittenberg

has explored innumerable blue ribbon streams and rivers across the state. Yet, time and again she returns to the pristine waters of the Stillwater.

“This river is special. It’s here where I fill my coffers with energy and detach from the stress of everyday life,” Whittenberg said.

The day-to-day, she noted, is crammed full of sound bites and rhetoric. Most people are so acclimated to the noise that an escape to silence can feel scary. But for those who persevere, the river offers a reward.

“The current carries away stress, leaving long spells of silence that reach deep into your soul,” she said.

It’s a place of profound peacefulness for which Whittenberg is deeply grateful.

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“My husband was an avid fly-fisherman, and I Casting call A native of Illinois, Whittenberg and wanted to experience something he had enjoyed her family relocated to Montana in 1993. so much,” she told Gayle. “I wanted to remember him, and touch him in some Though always an avid way.” outdoorswoman and Another time, Gayle took angler, the move to a man and his wife to the West Montana set in motion Rosebud River. The man, who a new chapter in which was in the final stages of cancer, she traded her spinning was big and tall but very weak. rod for a fly rod.

Gayle drove the couple as close Over the years, as she could to the water’s edge.

Whittenberg became Though the man didn’t have the a proficient f lyenergy to fly-fish, he wanted to fisher. The joy she felt wade into the river. wading along stream “I was nervous, but I took beds and riverbanks his hand and held his elbow spilled over unabated. and we walked into that river,” It was an experience, Whittenberg recalled. she realized, she was After a while, Gayle brought compelled to share.

“The sport a chair out for the man to sit in As a fishing guide, and absorb the natural wonders Whittenberg meets of fly-fishing surrounding him. people “where they Hours later, with soft are in the sport.” To takes Zen-like music playing in the her, teaching someone background, the threesome to fly-fish transcends patience and drove home. The man sat the traditional roles of persistence. silently, tears streaming down “expert” and “student.” his cheeks.

She knows every meeting I’ve only “He was so moved by the with the river will be experience. I felt privileged to be different for every person. been fishing there with him,” Whittenberg And for each person, it’s 19 years, said. Two weeks later the man as much an exploration passed. of one’s soul as it is an and I’m expedition into nature.

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just now approaching that place of richness.”

Humble serenity

It requires effort to go to the river, Whittenberg Whittenberg recalls acknowledges. And it can take taking one of her clients, a lifetime to become proficient a woman in her late at fly-fishing. twenties, fly-fishing on But perhaps proficiency isn’t the Stillwater for the very the goal. first time. ­— GAYLE wHittenberg “The sport of f ly “She didn’t talk about fishing takes patience and why she wanted to try flypersistence,” she said. “I’ve fishing. A couple of times only been fishing 19 years, and she just said that she I’m just now approaching that wished her husband were place of richness.” there with her.”

Staying true to her philosophy of ‘meeting For Whittenberg, ‘that place of richness’ people where they are,’ Gayle never pressed for includes hearing the throaty voices of Sandhill information. Instead, she allowed the experience Cranes and seeing ancient cottonwood trees that were saplings when Montana was a mere to unfold.

By afternoon the ladies got onto some fish. territory. It’s stepping out of the whir of the world “My client was shouting with joy, saying ‘this is so and into the mystery of the natural realm. It’s a place where humility and clarity commune. much fun’!”

On the way home, the young woman again “I will pass, and the rivers will keep said that she wished her husband could have been flowing,” said Whittenberg. “Until that time, there with her. As the miles passed, she opened the river whispers many things if you allow it to up explaining that he had been killed in Iraq. open up to you.”

Heart on the line

Born to

be Wild They aren’t who you think they are.

By day, these well-coifed, well-established businesswomen exude an air of cool confidence and professional polish. But when the work day is over, these ladies are among a growing contingent of professional women who love to peel off their business suits, pantyhose and high heels, change into leather chaps, leather jackets and riding boots, and mount their motorcycles, ready to ride.

By Allyson Gierke Above: Rachel Marten with her 2006 Harley Davidson soft tail deluxe in the beartooths. Photo by Clark marten

MAGIC I july 2012 I 77

Shifting gears According to Women Riders Now, one of the biggest shifts taking place in the motorcycling industry is the growth and impact of the female riding population.

Since 2003, the number of women riders has increased by 24 percent making women the fastest growing group of riders. Today, the Motorcycle Industry Council estimates that one out of every four riders is a woman.

Beauty and the byways Rachel Marten, a professional photographer

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with Clark Marten Photography out of Columbus, Mont., is one such rider.

“I love the freedom of riding,” said Marten.

“There are no phones, no interruptions. I get on and say, ‘OK, Lord, speak to me.’ Riding is like therapy.”

Rachel, who owns a 2006 Harley-Davidson Softail Deluxe, often rides with her husband, Clark.

The couple has ridden to Sturgis, South Dakota, several times to attend the annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. They also take a long road trip every summer. But her most frequent ride is on the road between Columbus and Joliet.

“The scenery is gorgeous. The smell of the alfalfa fields and Russian Olives is profound, but then so is the road kill,” Marten laughs.

And then there’s the hot asphalt. “I love to ride in the heat – the hotter it is, the more I love it.”

For Marten, riding a motorcycle makes her feel at one with her surroundings.

“There really is nothing else like it,” she said.

Renate Arneson agrees. She and her husband, Doug, used to take road trips in their Corvette and would frequently encounter groups of motorcyclists along the way.

“It was evident they were having way more fun than we were,” Arneson said. Soon after, she talked her husband into selling the Corvette and buying a bike.

“I rode on the back with Doug for two months before getting my own bike. Who wants to sit on the back?”

One of Arnseon’s most memorable trips was through Yellowstone National Park in October – the last weekend that Lake Hotel was open for the season.

“It was the most gorgeous, beautiful and romantic ride,” Arneson recalled. “We felt this great connection to nature and the planet.”

Heidi Kreiger, owner of Midwest Leather, began riding on a small Honda when she was just 12 years old. Today, Kreiger drives a Yamaha V Star.

“It sounds silly, but it’s very empowering to pull up at a traffic light on this powerful machine knowing everyone in their car wishes

they were you.”

“I mean, She said. how many Kreiger is quick to admit times in she loves the life does a sense of freedom, and speed. middle-aged, “I mean, how many times professional in life does a woman get midd le-aged, to feel like a professional woman get to badass?” feel like a badass? ~Heidi Kreiger There’s nothing else like it.”

For Deanna Darnielle, riding is in her genes.

In 1988, Darnielle’s father, Aubrey Darnielle, started the Montana Vintage Motorcycle Club, a gathering of riders, collectors and vintage motorcycle restorationists. He also started his daughter riding dirt bikes when she was just 10 years old. Today, Darnielle owns a HarleyDavidson Sportster 1200 and, like her dad, tours with the Billings Motorcycle Club and Rainmakers Motorcycle Club.

Lona Olsen, a jewelry designer, bought her first full-sized bike in 2001 – a HarleyDavidson Dyna. Since then, she and her husband, Wayne, have traveled the West on motorcycles.

“One of our favorite trips was riding from Seattle to Napa Valley, and then up through Canada and around Lake Superior,” said Olsen.

“Riding gives you such a connection to the Women riders: Clockwise from left: Deanna Darnielle. Renate Arneson Photos by Casey Page. Heidi Kreiger. Photo by Paul Ruhter.

get acquainted with riding. Usually it isn’t long before they graduate to more powerful bikes, up to a 1300 cc,” Ryan said.

Even if they aren’t driving, ladies still hold a power position.

“Women are generally the ones who make the final decision for their husbands or partners in choosing a motorcycle,” Ryan said.

Haun and Ryan agree, safety is a priority and education is key. Both Beartooth HarleyDavidson and Montana Honda and Marine offer introductory and safety programs for beginners and Haun and Ryan encourage riders to take Montana Motorcycle Rider Safety courses through Montana State University – Northern.

“Safety first, then adventure on the road,” said Ryan.

For Safety’s sake Lessons: All riders are advised to take a motorcycle safety course. Basic, experienced and advanced training is available through Montana State University – Northern. Information and registration can be obtained at www.motorcycle/msun.edu.

Helmets: Never ride without one.

Protective wear: In addition to a helmet, riders should wear longsleeved shirts, full-length pants, heavy boots, thick jackets, chaps and gloves.

Be legal: Montana drivers are required to have a motorcycle endorsement on their license.

outdoors; it’s exhilarating. I have no intention of ever giving it up.”

Power mavens Once the domain of bad boys in black jackets, ladies are hitting the highway on two wheels in record numbers and savvy business owners are responding.

Colette Haun, marketing and event coordinator for Beartooth Harley-Davidson, hosts women-only “garage parties.” The parties are intended as a way to introduce ladies to motorcycling and connect women riders with one another.

Mike Ryan, business manager at Montana Honda and Marine, has also seen an increase in the number of women buying motorcycles.

“For beginners, we suggest a 250 cc bike to

Have adequate insurance: Insurance coverage is available not only for the motorcycle, but also for your accessory investments as well as for your riding gear, roadside assistance and even the costs of interruption to your trip. Ask about personal liability insurance, medical insurance and uninsured or underinsured coverage.

Tips: Pretend that you are invisible, as you very well might be to car and truck drivers. Make sure your headlights work and are on night and day. Be aware of blind spots that car and truck drivers have, use lane position to be seen easily.

Even if you slow by downshifting or rolling off the throttle, flash your break lights so that others know what you are doing.

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­­­­­ Joel Anderson, — Climbing Coach, Steepteam

Steepteam member, Kaleb Loper, competes at the ABS Regional Championship in Boise, ID.

SOCIAL CLIMBER

“The big breakthrough is when kids realize it’s not necessarily how strong they are that will get them to the top. Success depends upon four elements: technique, beta (knowing where to hold), power and endurance.”

In building a community that scales the heights, Joel Anderson is starting from the ground up, mentoring and training young climbers.

BY JULIE JOHNSON

PHOTOS COURTESY JOEL ANDERSON

Alt-rock music pumps SteepWorld, as Steepteam members warm up, traversing the perimeter of the 2,500-square-foot climbing gym without touching the padded floor.

Thirteen to 18-year-old fingers and toes grip the crazy quilt of multicolored, polyurethane hand and footholds anchored to 16-foot, steelreinforced, multiplex walls cantilevered at challenging angles.

“C’mon. Don’t give up,” shouts a slender, shaggy haired climber over his shoulder to a friend, nearing the end.

Stragglers enter, stepping into climbing shoes, a ballet slipper of leather and rubber textured to grip minute footholds. Mounting drawstring chalk bags to their backsides and expertly chalking up hands, they get to work.

Inside this inner sanctum, where dreams of summiting 11-pitch alpine wonders begin, coach Joel Anderson instructs one of his charges. He’s quiet, slight of build and stature, with short brown hair and pale blue eyes peering from behind rectangular frames. This unassuming Clark Kent contrasts markedly with the blogger of “8-track thinking,” who clings fearlessly to 100-foot ice waterfalls given names like “The Testament” and “Two Cold to Fire.”

2.

Photo by Joel Anderson

1.

Photo by Casey Page

3.

Photo by Joel Anderson

4.

Photo by Joel Anderson

Finding his footing Anderson recalls “that fateful conversation” with SteepWorld owner Jim Rott, who said, “We need a coach. I think you’d be good at it.”

Anderson wasn’t sure. He’d climbed competitively in high school and college and coached soccer, but his life was full, working as a design architect at CTA Architects, relentlessly climbing the region’s rocks, mountains and ice and creating a photographic exhibit of those Photo by Casey Page exploits, richly documented at eight-track. blogspot.com.

“I figured,” says Anderson, “if I start this, I’ll take it to the nth degree.”

The nth degree isn’t hard to imagine from a man who moved to Montana from Chicago solely for climbing. Growing up near the Twin Cities of Minnesota, 12-year-old Anderson discovered the sport on a field trip to a climbing gym. As an architecture student in Chicago, he sought a climbing community at local gyms, making three-hour trips to Wisconsin or seven-hour trips to Kentucky just to climb.

“Climbers are very passionate,” says Anderson. “It’s not just another sport. It’s part of your life.”

That community was his life-line, one he wanted to recreate in Billings.

By Anderson’s measure, with the Rimrocks at our doorstep, premium, alpine rock climbing and mountaineering in the Beartooths, and “the best ice climbing in the lower 48” outside Cody, a vibrant local climbing community is a no-brainer.

Strength builds confidence Thad McGrail, president of Steepteam, defines that community as empowering. He stands outside the gym door at Thursday night’s practice where his son, Matt, and 16 teammates just finished their warm-up.

“Matt started three years ago,” says McGrail. “He was shy and didn’t want to do other team sports. This sport brought him out of his shell. He’s

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1. Coach Joel Anderson at a Steepteam Practice.

2. Charlie Barron competing and placing 3rd at Nationals in Colorado Springs. 3. Steepteam climber Jaden Rott watches Kaleb Loper climb a route while competing at the Bozeman Full Gravity Day climbing competition.4. Team members on an outing at Mill Creek. 5. Madison, Forrest, Stephen, Dexter and Joel encourage Max Mulvaney up the wall during practice at SteepWorld Climbing Gym in Billings.

5.

more confident, outgoing, has better friendships, and has done better in school. The culture fosters that.”

Many parents echo this sentiment.

Some describe children who improved in other sports after learning to climb. Others have children who march to the beat of their own drummer but found growth and friendship in the climbing community.

One young climber stated simply, “Climbing helps me be social.”

Inside the gym, the music is off, and Anderson is explaining the rules for a bouldering competition in Bozeman. Bouldering is climbing without ropes, so indoor routes go no higher than 13 feet. Competitors have two hours to climb as many routes as they wish. Routes are assigned points based on level of difficulty. The top six routes completed comprise the final score. Judges sign off on score cards. Unlike competitions at the regional, divisional and national levels, this USA Climbing-certified local competition allows climbers to watch others before attempting a route.

“Watch out for each other,” says Anderson. “Make suggestions, like ‘Hey there was a good hold you missed and could have used.’”

He turns them loose for tonight’s practice, a mock competition. Climbers wander, selecting routes and sizing up walls with a look of intensity any parent would long to see on their child sitting down to homework.

“They have to learn to climb the problem,” says Anderson, likening climbing to math. “The big breakthrough is when kids realize it’s not necessarily how strong they are that will get them to the top.” Success

depends upon four elements: technique, beta (knowing where to hold), power and endurance.

He surveys his charges with pride, noting how Kaleb Loper, a wiry teen working “the cave” in grey stocking cap and sweatshirt, blossomed this past year. And Loper isn’t Anderson’s only protoge.

Thirteen-year-old Charlie Barron taught Anderson something about determination. “When Charlie started three years ago, five kids started with him. He wasn’t the best but loved it so much - it was only a matter of time.”

Charlie has qualified for national competitions six times, placing fourth in his age division last spring. “It’s like a puzzle you have to work on a long time,” enthuses Charlie. “It’s really exciting when you make it to the top.”

Planting a fedora on his head, he “Spidermans” up a 500-point route with ease, then assists a teammate.

Knocking down walls The following Saturday, the Spire Climbing Center in Bozeman reverberates to music provided by host, coach, and “D.J.,” Aaron Hjelt.

The outdoorsy, Bohemian-chic crowd of competitors, parents and coaches stand shoulder-to-shoulder in the 4,000-square-foot gym as the walls crawl with climbers.

Anderson navigates the chaos with calm, camera slung over his back, attending to his team one-by-one. He spots Kaleb on an 850-point route.

Kaleb will win his age division this day as will Emma Fulton, Jaden Rott and Katie Nemar. Charlie, competing in the men’s open in the afternoon, will make the finals.

Charlie’s mother, Karen Cabell, laughs, discussing his enthusiasm.

Charlie goes to biweekly team practices early to work with the junior team. “He loves the younger kids,” she says. “He’ll come home and give a blow-by-blow of moves some kid learned at practice.”

Charlie echos this enthusiasm.

“It’s so much fun to watch them improve,” says the sage 13-year-old.

Tethered together No leap is required to understand how individual goal setting combined with mutual support translates in the outdoor climbing world. Whether leading on a pitch or anchoring teammates at the belay, the success of one depends on the competence of all. Preparing Billings youth for those experiences is the heart of Steepteam.

“We share the Beartooths and surrounding areas and want kids to be climbers,” says Steepteam president, McGrail. “The ultimate mission is not to just have kids compete in competitions.”

At summer camps, five-inch foam crash pads are hauled to the base of boulders to introduce technique on rock. Safety equipment and instruction are integral. Kids rave about how “awesome” bouldering is outside, scaling climbs given cheeky names like “Holy Horizontal” and “Terrible Twos.”

“They start out almost at ground zero when we take them outside,” says Anderson. “It’s a totally different game. There’s no replacement for experience. The more we give them under supervision, the better.”

Anderson shares that experience and more, including a desire to go to “amazing places,” scratch that creative climbing itch and thrill to summiting, looking down and saying, “I climbed that.”

For more information, visit Steepteam.com.

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For the adventurist, taking a vertical step can inject an adrenal rush and added respect for the rugged beauty of our backyard.

Joel Anderson offers ideas for both experienced mountaineers and novice rock climbers.

Ice in Alaska, rock in

Spain, the French Alps, Cascades, Adirondacks, Canadian Rockies, Grand Tetons – all and more fed and informed Joel Anderson’s climbing drive, but he chose Montana as home, where climbing could be “that other half of my life” for one simple reason: no lines.

Since moving to Billings,

Anderson has explored the rich opportunities in our region, discovering what natives have long known.

“Montana still has that

wilderness factor,” he says, reveling in a pioneer spirit of discovery. “This place is still sort of unknown.”

Outsiders are beginning to take notice. Guidebooks are few, and Anderson values information exchange among climbers. In that spirit he shares some highlights.

Skill Level Beginner Intermediate Expert Joel Anderson bouldering in the Rock Creek Drainage of the Beartooths

MAGIC july 2012 I 85

BY JULIE JOHNSON • PHOTOS COURTESY JOELI ANDERSON

Mountaineering in the Beartooths

Bouldering, sport and often ice skills come together for magnificent, multiday, multi-pitch adventures in our neighboring mountains. The Beartooths by and large are not for beginners, but the experienced climber can unearth the best in undiscovered “trad” climbing. Traditional climbing requires skills to put in and remove anchors while working a way up.

Granite Peak, at 12,799 feet, is the main attraction for “peakbaggers” seeking to snag the highest summits in each of the lower 48. Best accessed from the Mystic Lake Trailhead in West Rosebud Canyon, the usual two-day climb is, by Anderson’s measure, a good test of alpinism, but he considers the summit just the tip of the iceberg.

“You get up there,” he enthuses, “and see everything else you can climb. You’re like – wow.”

Whitetail Peak, from the West Fork Rock Creek Trailhead, Mount Inabnit, from the East Rosebud Lake Trailhead and Mount Wood from the Mystic Lake Trailhead are but a few to consider.

Climbing guides to Granite Peak are in most outdoor sporting shops.

Full mountaineering gear and Joel Anderson climbing on the Tower of Poor Rock in East Rosebud Canyon

experience are needed.

Ice climbing in Cody

The Washakie Wilderness, 30 miles outside of Cody, boasts one of the highest concentrations of ice waterfalls, making the Shoshone River home to the South Fork Ice Waterfall Festival, which attracts enthusiasts from around the country. The 14-yearold, February festival offers clinics and guides for climbers of all levels.

Many approaches require considerable hiking, but the South Fork Valley rewards with renowned, long ice routes. The season lasts from late October through April. Sunlight Sports in Cody has maps and guidebooks.

Aaron Mulkey climbing Hell’s Angel in the South Fork of the Shoshone southwest of Cody

Advanced climbing equipment including ice axes and crampons are required as well as skills to use them.

Sport (Rope) Climbing in Ten Sleep Climbers from around the country converge each July Fourth on Ten Sleep, Wyo., 180 miles south of Billings, for an unofficial climbing festival. Thanks to world-class limestone and the efforts of National Geographic photographer and climber, Aaron Huey, the area hosts 400-plus bolted routes, largely singlepitch.

Outside of summer holiday weekends, calm prevails with plenty of rock for everyone at all levels, including “some of the hardest routes in the country.” Anderson recommends Huey’s guidebook – which can be purchased online – not only for information but entertainment value.

Ten Sleep provides a good introduction to sport climbing.

Climbers from around the country converge each July Fourth on Ten Sleep, Wyo., 180 miles south of Billings, for an unofficial climbing festival.

Climbing shoes, chalk bag, harness, anchors and rope are required as well as skills to use them.

Tanner Callendar climbing above Ten Sleep Canyon

Bouldering in Billings and beyond

For the uninitiated

Zimmerman Park, at the junction of Highway 3 and Zimmerman Trail and Phipps Park, off Molt Road west of Billings, combine to offer more than 100 bouldering problems, ranging in difficulty from easy to intermediate.

Rock Creek drainage outside Red Lodge near the Glacier Lake Trail Head has a variety of accessible boulders offering easy to advanced problems, including “one of the greatest boulders in the world,” immortalized in a photograph taken by bouldering godfather, John Sherman in a 1980s issue of “Rock and Ice,” in which Sherman allegedly also said, “but I’m never going to tell you where it is.”

Employees at SteepWorld climbing gym in Billings are knowledgeable about the region and can provide information and a guide sheet to Zimmerman Park.

Montana State University Billings offers rock climbing and rappelling classes taught

by SteepWorld owner, Jim Rott.

The American Mountain Guides Association (www.amga.com) provides a listing of certified instructors and guides by state.

Jackson Hole Mountain Guides has an office housed in Sunlight Sports in Cody, providing AMGA-certified guides and instructors. They offer classes at all levels and are permitted in the Beartooths and Cody region.

Climbing shoes, chalk bag and crash pad are suggested.

Forrest Murter tops out one of the boulders in Phipps Park near Billings.

For more ideas, visit www.rockclimbing.com.

Creative License By julie green • photography by james woodcock

Big Sky country is known for a heck of a lot of things, like blue skies, rolling fields, great fishing and even better hunting (and rarely saying the word “heck”). But there’s one other thing folks who visit Montana notice right away, something that Lewis and Clark undoubtedly never thought of as they surveyed this once-wild territory: specialty license plates.

Yep, whether you’re a Boy Scout or bowhunter, quilter or cowgirl, horseman or hockey player, you can mosey into the local department of motor vehicles, point at the wall and choose a plate that instantly tells other drivers who you are and what you’re all about. Or, on the other hand, you do what a lot of us do: choose the one you think will best accessorize your car.

“We sell a lot of Cat and Griz plates in our office, and

88 I july 2012 I MAGIC

a lot of hunting and fishing plates,” says Marty Pryor, Yellowstone County’s motor vehicle supervisor. “But a lot of people just pick out the prettiest one or one that matches the color of their car.”

And one thing’s for sure—they have a lot to choose from.

Although Montana doesn’t have the most specialty (or sponsored) license plates of any state in the nation, we do have our fair share. We have 150 to be exact. And that doesn’t count

“We sell a lot of Cat and Griz plates in our office, and a lot of hunting and fishing plates, “But a lot of people just pick out the prettiest one or one that matches the color of their car.” ­— Marty Pryor,

Motor Vehicle Supervisor. the five standard plates, three antique/vintage plates, 18 military plates or the amateur radio plates that are also available.

Want a specific color? There’s good news there, too. Palettes range from bright pink (Elizabeth Custer Library Museum) and bold blues (Billings City Council) to more subdued browns and blacks (Big Sky Economic Development), just to name a few. And the artwork is equally diverse including trout leaping, hikers hiking, windmills turning, musical notes floating through the air and loons…well, doing whatever it is loons do.

Certainly, there is enough variety to assure that the workers at the Montana State Prison – where plates have been produced for nearly 100 years – never get bored.

But a lot of folks, looking at those plates hanging on the wall, have to wonder: why on earth are there so many?

“The program was set up to help organizations raise money,” Pryor notes.

To apply, an organization must be registered as a non-profit entity. Once approved, there’s a onetime set up charge of $4,000. When a car owner chooses one of these specialty plates, in addition to the registration fees they pay a donation, which then goes to the organization.

That annual donation fee varies by organization. Some of the most popular plates are those featuring Montana’s colleges and universities, each of which currently requires a donation of $30. Others range from a low of $15

to a high of $50, with most in the $20 range.

So with such a relatively small donation and such a seemingly steep set up fee, is it really worth the investment? A quick check of the numbers on the mt.gov website suggests that it is.

During the first three quarters of FY12 (July 11, 2011 through March 31, 2012), the program generated more than $1.02 million in donations to non-profits. And while some license plates garner higher returns than others, for most organizations it appears that the initial investment is quickly recouped.

And just who is the big winner in the license plate popularity contest?

The University of Montana collegiate plate trounces the competition, with more than $240,000 in donations having been made in the first three quarters of this fiscal year alone. In second place is the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation, having raised more than $147,000 thus far. The Grizzly Scholarship Fund is a close third, followed by Glacier National Park, Montana Council of Trout Unlimited and Montana State University rounding out the top five.

(There is some possibility that, after the publication of this article, there will be surge of school pride in and around Bozeman leading to a license plate donation upset; we’ll keep you posted.)

Oh – and good news for those intrepid explorers who first looked out over this valley.

Although Lewis and Clark’s adventure has long since ended, their bicentennial plate issued in 2002 is still going strong.

Opposite page at Top:Vintage plate from1967, today’s current plates were designed after the original.

Opposite page Below:A section taken of the license plate wall at the Courthouse. Above, inset photos: from top; Marty Pryor,Yellowstone County Motor Vehicle supervisor. Specialty plates include, Montana trout, skiing and snowboarding, pets and liberty with eagle and flag. Photos by James Woodcock

BUT WAIT—

THERE’S MORE (OR AT LEAST, WE THINK THERE SHOULD BE) Sure we Montanans have more than 150 license plates from which to choose, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t a few more we’d like to see: The “Little Black Dress” Plate: Listen, every girl needs to have one in her closet and we think that there should be one for our car as well. A Chanelinspired, classically simple black design accented with pearlescent letters and numbers, it would not only add a level of sophistication to your commute, ladies would be convinced it would make their bumper look smaller. A Spanx under-plate could be purchased for full-size SUV’s.

The “I Like Big Trucks and I Cannot Lie” Plate: People, it is no secret that we here in Montana like our trucks like we like our skies: Big. So shouldn’t we have a plate that says so?

Made of gleaming diamond plate and emblazoned with the icon of your favorite make, this plate would have “outta my way” written all over it. (It’d actually be a bit smaller than the average plate, but many of the men who choose it would boast it’s a whole lot bigger.)

The “Hang Up & Drive” Plate: We’ve all thought it, so it makes sense to have a plate that says it. With graphics demonstrating how to hang up a cell phone before getting behind the wheel, it would be a rolling public service announcement. Best of all, it would come in an iPhone version—white, with a holographic Apple icon and at least one thing that goes wrong every time an updated plate is released.

The “I’m a Parent” Plate: Its worn patina tinted with crayons that went through the washer, it will come with dents from baseballs, marks from bicycle tires, grass stains and a note for today’s field trip that you were supposed to sign a week ago. Whether their kid is a MENSA candidate or pulling in straight C’s, it’s the kind of plate that most parents will proudly display, and the one that that’ll cause a tear or two to fall when it’s time to exchange it for a collegiate plate.

Top: Midland Fairgrounds, Circa 1916. Center: The Billings Gazette front page announcing the fair. Right: In 1949, the Zacchini sisters brought their “Double Cannon Thriller” act to The Midland Empire Fair. Each day, hundreds of fairgoers packed the grandstands to watch as the girls were shot in tandem out of a cannon. According to the Billings Herald, the Zacchini sisters were the only two girls in the world performing the cannon stunt.

Inset photos: Center: The “Big shot” is one of the most popular rides at today’s fair. Photo by Bob Zellar. Opposite page, top: Ribbons for prized animals are given each year to 4H participants and various events. Photo by David Grubbs. Center: The Montana Fair Rodeo brings in riders from all across the U.S. Photo by Bob Zellar. Bottom: A vendor shows off a couple Vikings on a stick, a fair food favorite. Photo by Larry Mayer.

90 I july 2012 I MAGIC

12 0 2 n i n u f ore m n e v e , 6 91 1 n i k c a b Fun

By Gail Mullennax Hein

An excited little girl stood next to her father at the fairgrounds, ready and eager to smash a bottle of “rare old vintage” on the massive doors of the great auditorium.

Audrey Sampsel, daughter of Victor E. Sampsel, president of the Billings Chamber of Commerce, was the child. The beverage was sacrificed to christen the first annual Midland Empire Fair on Sept.

18, 1916.

“Great Fair Starts Today. Exhibition of marvelous wealth and resources awaits public inspection. Old time fair men stood aghast with wonderment at the transformation of the grounds and buildings to proportion has never before equaled by an infant exhibition.” ~reported by The Billings Gazette, Sept. 18, 1916 For months, the townspeople had eagerly anticipated opening day. All Billings merchants signed an agreement to close up shop so that no one would miss the event.

An urgent call was sent out to every automobile owner in the city to drive in the parade. The young city of Billings, comprising pioneer business folk, ranchers, homesteaders, railroaders, country and town dwellers alike, must have been electrified with anticipation as they streamed through the spanking new gates to the great fair.

Back at the turn of the 20th century, fairs were the equivalent of today’s gargantuan trade and technology shows, observed Sandra Hawke, director of MetraPark sales and marketing. Aimed at the sparse and primarily agrarian population in the developing West, fairs offered the chance for people to win ribbons and prizes for individual efforts as well as experience firsthand innovations in livestock, crop and home science developments.

Today’s fanfare

Since 1916, the fair has remained one of the city’s most anticipated annual events.

Though the focus of the fair has widened to include the interests of an urban population, it still retains the same core values, according to Hawke.

On Friday, Aug. 10, the gates will swing wide on the 94th celebration of MontanaFair, held at the same site as its predecessors. Whether testing your luck on the Midway, nibbling on sweet treats, entering a patchwork quilt or watching the kiddos ride rides, MontanaFair is still Mecca for Montana-made fun.

On the Midway

May the centrifugal force be with you.

If heart-hammering spinning, whirling dizziness while screaming your larynx loose is what you crave, this year’s lineup of rides on the Midway is bursting with vim and verve. New this year: The Speed. This ride features a 120-foot arm connected at its center to the top of an approximately 120-foot vertical support. Picture the giant windmills that produce energy and yourself twirling at the tip of a blade. Four seats at the end of each arm swing 360° as the arm rotates up to 13 rpm, producing an acceleration of 3.5 G-force on the riders.

Move on, if you’ve got the grit, to Starship 4000, offering the latest a rchet y pa l spaceship simu lat ion

MAGIC I july 2012 I 91

for the feeling of weightlessness at more than 20 rpm. And then there’s Super Shot.

A dozen passengers, legs dangling from each circular station, are lifted up the 90foot tower, released in an accelerated freefall and guaranteed an adrenaline rush.

But wait, there’s more. Check out the other 29 rides in this year’s Thomas Carnival.

Homegrown talent Montana 4-H, a youth development program of Montana State University, celebrates its century mark in 2012 – 100 years of adult leaders and volunteers working with youth ages 5-19. Ten decades ago, boys grew livestock and grain and girls learned canning and quilting, said Melody Harris, 4-H Program Assistant.

“They still do, but now both sexes might be working on a robotics or renewable energy project, or be involved in skateboarding or shooting sports,” she said. The mix among the 500 4-H youth in Yellowstone County is both rural and urban and programs cover a wide variety of interests.

Competing and performing at MontanaFair remain important components of the 4-H program and a blue ribbon means just as much today. Year-round activities

focus on youth development in leadership, project management, community service and public speaking, skills that will serve lifelong.

Meanwhile, kids, leaders, parents and volunteers keep up to the minute through their website, mobile devices and Facebook.

Imagine explaining that to a 4H’er from 1912.

Creative competition Do you draw or paint? Raise rabbits?

Knit? This year’s fair expects around 9,000 entries from livestock to lilies, and will pay out about $90,000 in prize money.

“The competitive exhibit areas of the fair are open to all comers,” Hawke said.

“In fact, the first premium book for the 1916 fair when I.D. O’Donnell was manager stated that ‘entries were open to the world.’”

If crafting isn’t your forte, enter the MontanaFair Jump On It! video contest for a chance to win four premium tickets plus meet & greet passes to all three MontanaFair concerts. Entry details and clips of the dance are available on MontanaFair.com.

Or perhaps your passion lies in the culinary arts. If that’s the case, consider entering the Montana State BBQ Championship, a Kansas City Barbeque Society sanctioned, professional BBQ

cooking competition among professional and amateur BBQ teams from across the USA and Canada. For those who prefer eating versus cooking, purchase a plate of the best and see if you agree with the judges.

A gathering of gastronomes Comprising 189 acres, MontanaFair is big place to cover. When the weary dogs begin to bark and the stomach growls back, it’s time to pause and refuel the energy store.

But so many choices. If the longest lines tell the tale, then Viking on a Stick gets the nod. More moveable feast choices include skewer pork chops, giant corn-onthe-cob, ice cream, caramel apples, cotton candy, chocolate-covered strawberries and a barrage of deep-fried treats. Sit for a bit to gnaw on a smoked turkey leg or nibble your way around the world with ethnic specialties from Asia to Greece, Norway to Mexico.

Deals, dates and more MontanaFair media ads, smart phone Quick Response codes and social media will help you track event times and dates and nail the best deals. Then again, you can simply walk through the gates and let the enticing sights, sounds and smells be your guide.

Our community

has been at the heart of everything we do since 1937 when our founder Carl W. Bennett installed some of the city’s first street lights. Today our work can be seen across Billings, from illuminating area refineries to lighting the aisles in local grocery stores.

Thank you for allowing us to play a role in the growth of the amazing city we call home for the last 75 years. We look forward to serving you for 75 more.

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1.

“Barrage,” at Alberta Bair Theater 2.

4.

1] Barb Pitman, Leslie and Bruce Marty 2] Sheryl, Kim and Lindsay Christophersen, Rory Grinde 3] Amanda and

3.

Dennis Olson 4] Nancy Thorson, Liisa Johnson and Kristina McComas

MSUB Foundation Wine and Food Festival 5] Caree Bernhart and

6.

Cory Elkin

6] Brandee Soens, Kristin Peterman, Codie Wahrman and Jeannie

5.

McIsaac Tracy

7] Brian and Kathy Gurney

8] Bree Osgood and Dustin Spaulding

7. .

8. .

MAGIC I july 2012 I 93

Heart and Sole Run 8] Jen, Travis and Gina Zeilstra 9] (L-R back) Al Vukasin, Neal Sorensen (L-R front) April Baiamonte, Tiffany Garcia and Jason Barker

8.

9.

10.

10] Janet, Hailey and Shauna

12.

Ewell 11] Robin Newmann and Shan Fluss

Alive After Five (at Billings Gazette Communications) 12] Bo Blair and Alexandra Christie 13] Christie Kammer, Shannon Johnson and Kim Hinckley 14] Nicole and Marcia McKinney and

11.

13.

14.

Sherlynn Stewart 15] Jack Hooper, Debbie West and Mary Jane Kelly

Wild West Soiree 16] Todd and Debbie Willis 17] Loretta Michels, Annette Hoff, Susan Koch and Rita Skoglund 18] Erin and Jon

15. .

16. .

Zacharkiw 19] Erika Salomon, Matt Bullard, Jasmine Poole and Chase Palmer

Photos byAngie Kramer, Samuel Jones and MSU Billings Foundation 17. .

For information on how to have photos from your event featured in Seen at the Scene, email Brittany Cremer at bcremer@billingsgazette.com

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18. .

19. .

July 13, Yellowstone Valley Relay For Life American Cancer Society Relay For Life is a lifechanging event that helps communities across the globe celebrate the lives of people who have battled cancer, remember loved ones lost and fight back against the disease.

Attend the Yellowstone Valley Relay for Life July 13-14 from 7 p.m. to 8 a.m. at Billings’ West High track to show your support.

Participants walk for a cure at the 2011 Relay for Life. Photo by Paul Ruhter

July July 5

St. John’s Summer Concert Series Dave Oltrogge & Friends Where Were You in ’62 Revue St. John’s Lutheran Ministries 7 p.m.

July 6

Hoof it with a Historian Western Heritage Center ywhc.org 256-6806

First Friday

Downtown Billings Various locations www.downtownbillings.com

July 7

ZooGrass Marshall Tucker Band 652-8100

July 12

Alive After 5 Tiny’s Tavern Featuring Dead Man’s Hand aliveafter5.com 294-5060

St. John’s Summer Concert Series Wylie & The Wild West St. John’s Lutheran Ministries 7 p.m.

July 13-14

July 16

Don Williams Alberta Bair albertabairtheater.org Montana Shakespeare in the Parks “Twelfth Night” Pioneer Park

Yellowstone Valley Relay for Life American Cancer Society Billings West High School 256-7150

shakespeareintheparks.org

July 14

shakespeareintheparks.org

Yellowstonecountyrelay.org

Great Strides Walk for Cystic Fibrosis www.cff.org/great_strides 696-9633 The Dirty Dash MetraPark Thedirtydash.com Yellowstone Art Museum Summerfair Veterans Park artmuseum.org

July 14 and 28

Billings Youth Orchestra Auditions Billingsyouthorchestra.org 248-2000

July 17

Montana Shakespeare in the Parks “Hamlet” Pioneer Park

July 19

Alive After 5 The Rex Featuring Jared Stewart aliveafter5.com 294-5060

July 21

Billings All Original Car Show North Park Billingsalloriginal carshow.com

July 26

Alive After 5 Monte Carlo Featuring 7th Ave. Band aliveafter5.com 294-5060 St. John’s Summer Concert Series Midlife Chryslers St. John’s Lutheran Ministries 7 p.m.

July 28

Annual Mexican Fiesta South Park 839-0904

AUGUST Aug 2

Alive After 5 Pug Mahon’s Featuring Peach Pickers aliveafter5.com 294-5060 St. John’s Summer Concert Series Johnny Rodgers St. John’s Lutheran Ministries

Aug. 4

NAMI Billings Bike Ride Molt Community Center Namibikeride.com

St. John’s Summer Concert Series The Cold Hard Cash Show St. John’s Lutheran Ministries 7 p.m.

July 20-22

Big Sky State Games Various locations Bigskygames.org

Photo by Casey Page

MAGIC I july 2012 I 95

September 28-30 Magic City Shorts Film Festival

Sponsored by Billings Gazette Communications and the Babcock Theater

SEPTEMBER Sept. 15

Billings Roller Derby Dames Bout Shrine Auditorium Billingsrollerderbydames.com HBA Parade of Homes Various locations featured hbabillings.net

Sept. 16

Montana Governor’s Cup Marathon Molt Community Center Montanamarathon.org

Sept. 22 Photo by Bob Zellar

Billings Gazette Communications and the Babcock Theater are teaming up to produce the Magic City Shorts Film Festival held September 28-30. More than $1,500 in prize money will be awarded to short film submissions. Gazette readers will vote on their favorites August 25 through September 16. There is no cost to enter. Submissions must be 20 minutes or less in length. Submit your entries and vote at http://billingsgazette.com/film.

Aug 9

Alive After 5 Walker’s Grill Featuring South Park Line aliveafter5.com 294-5060 St. John’s Summer Concert Series Rick Estrin and the Nightcats In partnership with Magic City Blues St. John’s Lutheran Ministries 7 p.m.

Aug. 10

Sublime with Rome at MontanaFair MetraPark Montanafair.com

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Magic City Blues Fest— Chris Isaak headlines Montana Avenue Magiccityblues.com

Aug. 10-18

Featuring Big Caboose/ The ABC’s aliveafter5.com 294-5060

Aug. 24

MontanaFair MetraPark Montanafair.com

The Four Tops at Billings Clinic Classic ABT Billingsclinic.org

Aug 16

Aug. 30

Alive After 5 Brew Pub Featuring The Bucky Beaver Ground Grippers aliveafter5.com 294-5060

Aug. 23

Alive After 5 DBA Family Fun Night

Alive After 5 Surfer Joe’s Featuring D’Tective aliveafter5.com 294-5060

Oktoberfest Yellowstone Art Museum artmuseum.org HBA Parade of Homes Various locations featured hbabillings.net

Sept. 23

Walk to End Alzheimer’s Riverfront Park 252-3053

Sept. 28-30

Magic City Shorts Film Festival Babcock Theater Babcocktheater.com

Sept. 29

Saturday Live Pioneer Park billings.k12.mt.us

Aug. 31-Sept. 1

Burn the Point Downtown Billings Burnthepoint.com Saturday Live Photo by Casey Page

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LAST WORD

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