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The Best Cruise Lines of 2022 26/10/2022 6:07 pm
Upfront
Prepare for an armada The pandemic pause is well and truly over as more ships set sail for Australia and New Zealand this wave season, writes Peter Lynch.
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his summer Australia will be home to 46 international cruise ships, including some of the best, most luxurious and biggest in the world. More luxury ships from lines Regent Seven Seas, Ponant, Viking, Oceania, Cunard and Seabourn are set to visit from October to March next year. Two standout stars will be Regent Seven Seas Explorer – “the most luxurious ship ever built” – and Le Ponant, the beautiful French yacht that will transform sailing in the Kimberley. “Luxury travel has been the fastest to recover ... We’re seeing a much broader range of destinations – bucket-list destinations. We’re also seeing a lot of ‘close to home’, including Asia, where people don’t have to travel so far,” says Steve Odell, SVP & Managing Director Asia Pacific, Regent Seven Seas Cruises. Odell revealed that the average cruise spend has risen to above $30,000 for two people. “We are seeing more new customers than ever before – more than 50 per cent of people we have booked are new to our brand,” he says. Regent Seven Seas is already two-thirds full for 2023, and the line is now turning its sales teams on 2024-25.
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Homeported lines are also bringing numbers back to pre-pandemic days. Between P&O Cruises Australia, Royal Caribbean, Princess Cruises, Carnival Cruise Line and Celebrity Cruises, 11 of the big ships will take to Australian shores. Princess will sail three ships, including popular Majestic Princess; all three P&O Australia ships (Pacific Encounter, Pacific Adventure and Pacific Explorer) will be in operation; and the return of Carnival Splendor and the new Carnival Luminosa means the so-called “fun ships” are back. Particularly anticipated is the return of Royal Caribbean to Australian cruising, with the arrival of Ovation of the Seas and Quantum of the Seas bringing two huge ships to our shores. Quantum of the Seas, one of the largest and newest in the Royal Caribbean fleet, will be based in Brisbane, where the new port facility is aiming to make a step change in cruising Queensland and the Pacific. “Pent-up demand after Royal Caribbean’s two-year hiatus in Australia has meant bookings on both Quantum Class ships coming to Australia have been extremely strong,” says Dave Humphreys, director of sales at Royal Caribbean International Australia and New Zealand. “Bookings across Royal Caribbean’s Australia 2022-2023 summer season are performing well, with huge demand from Australians who are eager to Cruise &Travel
26/10/2022 9:34 am
“If you have your heart set on a particular cabin or suite category you should move fast.”
The stage is set
From left: Cruising makes a strong return to Australia; catch Mamma Mia! on Royal Caribbean; Ponant’s Le Soleal will sail Australia in 2023.
Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) Managing Director Australasia Joel Katz says demand is strong across the industry. “The sight of magnificent international cruise ships back in Australian and New Zealand waters has created a huge sense of anticipation and cruise lines are reporting good demand for cruising over the coming summer and into the future,” he says. According to CLIA’s latest sentiment surveys, Australians are revelling in the return of cruising as the numbers show spirits soaring since last year. In November 2021, of Australians who had never cruised before, only 43 per cent said they would be open to cruising, but that number has now rebounded to 56 per cent. Similarly, last November 73 per cent of past cruisers said they would cruise again in the next few years; now 81 per cent of past cruisers are ready to commit to a sailing. Furthermore, among both cruisers and non-cruisers, 65 per cent say they are likely or very likely to book a cruise in the next two years, well ahead of the 53 per cent from last November and even slightly up from the 64 per cent pre-pandemic. Katz says these numbers are a sign of the times as Australians get ready to cruise again. “Australians and New Zealanders have always been among the world’s most passionate cruisers, so it’s great to see the enthusiasm among past guests is back at pre-pandemic levels,” he says. “Sentiment has climbed even higher in other countries where cruise operations have been running for some time, so we can be confident of a similar rise in our region as we move forward.” The momentum will only continue in the following season as heavyweights Virgin Voyages and Disney Cruise Line pay their first visits to Australia, Celebrity Cruises brings its first Edge Class ship to our shores and numbers tick back towards the massive 60 ships that visited Australia during its last pre-COVID wave season. CT
get back to sea. Web traffic is exceeding pre-pandemic levels and enquiries on sailings have been significantly increasing.” Humphreys says if you have your heart set on a particular cabin or suite category you should move fast. “Our interconnecting balcony staterooms, which are ideal for multi-gen families, always sell out fast,” he says. “We also see a great deal of demand for our suites as Australian guests look to indulge on their holiday with features such as our Royal Genie, who as a personal butler can craft exclusive one-of-a-kind experiences all designed around the Star suite guest.” As for itineraries that are moving quickly, Humphreys highlights Ovation of the Seas’ and Quantum of the Seas’ 12-night sailings that stretch across Australia, New Zealand and the islands of the South Pacific. Norwegian Cruise Line is also expecting a buoyant season with Norwegian Spirit, which has had a $150 million makeover, taking centre stage. She will be sailing around our coasts and to New Zealand from December, along with Viking Ocean Cruises’ ships Viking Orion and Viking Mars. Cruise&Travel
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26/10/2022 9:34 am
Upfront
Loud and proud You can take your favourite podcasts – On Board with Cruise Passenger is a must – anywhere and listen on a portable bluetooth speaker. The JBL Clip 4 is brilliant – and costs about $90. It comes in colourful fabrics with a carabiner that’s integrated into the speaker for extra protection. It has a 10-hour battery life and is waterproof and dust-proof.
As tourism reopens in Japan, cruise is coming with it. Those in the know say cruises are already flying off the shelves. “We have had a surge of Japan bookings since they announced they were fully open,” says Michelle Levins, director of My Cruise Concierge. Not only is demand for Japan travel and cruise returning to prepandemic levels, but Levins sees it soon exceeding those levels. “Japan had been very popular pre-pandemic for us, so we are returning to those levels and I suspect we will go even higher. Japan is a country rich in history and culture, [and] clients also feel safe in Japan.” Sharon Summerhayes, owner of cruise agent Deluxe Travel & Cruise, says cherry-blossom cruises are her best-sellers. “I’m getting bookings for the 2023/24 season, specifically March for cherry-blossom cruises,” she says. “This is a bucket list for cruisers, so I expect the 2024 season to be in great demand as not all lines will be there for the next season – some redeployed due to uncertainty.”
JAPAN REOPENS TO CRUISE
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High spirits
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orwegian Spirit, which from December 2022 will call Australia home, is due to arrive with a major makeover. The expansiveness of the refurbishment is unprecedented for Norwegian Cruise Line, with a US$100 million facelift leaving Norwegian Spirit more glitzy than ever. The ship’s Mandara Spa has now doubled in size, with a steam room, sauna, shower experience and heated-tile loungers all there to keep you more relaxed. Just as sleek is the new adults-only pool, Spice H20, which by night turns into a speakeasy
cocktail lounge and open-air nightclub. There’s plenty more to do at night aboard Norwegian Spirit: choose between nine bars and lounges, 14 dining options and Broadway-style entertainment, with stand-outs such as country-tribute show Blazing Boots and Palace of Lights, which evokes 1950s Cuba. Norwegian Spirit will sail six 12-day itineraries in Australia and New Zealand, as well as a range of South Pacific voyages.
Cruise &Travel
25/10/2022 5:28 pm
Room at the top
LONDON FOG MARTINI, ANYONE?
Azamara has announced that its luxurious Atlas Bar offering will now be available on all its ships. The bar first appeared on Azamara Onward in April 2022, delighting guests by serving cocktails and small plates inspired by the ports visited on the cruise. Cocktails such as a London Fog Martini, Tuscan Delight or Heart of Azamara may be offered, depending on the itinerary, and will be served in sister ships’ lounges. Scott Daniels, Azamara’s head of hotel operations, said: “The designer created a beautiful space that really complements the cocktail and food menus that our food and beverage team worked so hard to perfect ... We wanted to be able to offer the experience on our other ships, even if we didn’t have the same physical space.”
Four Seasons has announced that in 2025 it will launch Four Seasons Yachts, an all-suite luxurious experience at sea. The move follows the announcements of rival luxury hoteliers Aman’s and The Ritz-Carlton’s entries into the luxury yacht space. The 14 decks of the Four Seasons yacht will pack in 95 suites, but the standout feature will be the fourlevel, 890 sq m Funnel Suite. This ultra-roomy option will feature expansive living spaces, a pool and spa area. Wraparound glass windows peer over the bow, making the suite a spectacular sight from both inside and out. The rest of the suites will average 54 sq m and open onto private terraces. Reservations will be available from the second half of 2023, with itineraries set to begin in the Mediterranean.
Right foot forward Tom Ford “James” sneaker, AU$1,105.
Silver Endeavour launches Silver Endeavour will be delighting passengers as of November 21, when the vessel sails on its inaugural voyage with Silversea Cruises. The ship was bought from Crystal Cruises earlier this year and will replace Silver Explorer for the 2022/23 Antarctica season, given that Endeavour was designed for Cruise &Travel
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polar destinations. The ship boasts luxurious amenities, an unprecedented Zodiac-to-guest ratio, kayaks and innovative polar navigation technology. Polar explorer and climate scientist Felicity Aston was named the ship’s godmother. “Her explorations are more than a test of physical stamina; they are a test of oneself,” says Roberto Martinoli, CEO of Silversea Cruises. “They will be a source of great inspiration for travellers as they set forth on their journey to polar regions and beyond.” 15
26/10/2022 9:32 am
Voyage
“WOW”is included There are many magical moments on a cruise of Alaska, from witnessing nature’s raw power at work to rejoicing at a stress-free voyage, writes Sue Bryant.
Nature’s gift
Above: Enjoying the scenery on an Alaskan cruise. Right: Bear sighting at Kodiak Island.
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almon-pink streaks the dawn sky and the water is silky smooth. I lean over the railing of my balcony and inhale the freshest air imaginable, the piney scent of spruce and hemlock on the breeze. The forested coast of British Columbia is on one side of the ship and mountainous Vancouver Island, at 460 kilometres long, is on the other. I’m savouring this moment of feeling completely alone when a black dorsal fin breaks the water. Six dorsal fins, in fact, one of them tiny. A pod of orca, with a calf in tow, is checking us out. This was just one of many “wow” moments on a seven-night cruise from Vancouver to Seward on Regent’s 684-passenger Seven Seas Mariner. Over the week, we hiked, spotted whales, searched for bears, kayaked, traced the path of the Gold Rush, got wet, got sunburned and ate an impossible amount of Alaskan salmon. Cruise &Travel
25/10/2022 12:48 pm
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Voyage
REGENT SEVEN SEAS But what struck me the most, the constant backdrop of jawdroppingly dramatic mountain scenery apart, was just how easy and stress-free this voyage was. Of course, all cruises are billed as a stress-free way to travel, but there are few where I could say that this is a reality. What made this one different? The fact that Regent is allinclusive is a big deal. Not just drinks on board; everything is thrown in. We were met at Vancouver Airport, whisked to the Fairmont Hotel by private car, and delivered to the ship the next morning. Excursion tickets and restaurant reservations were waiting in our suite. Our cabin steward produced a bottle of gin, tonic, lemon and an ice bucket for the minibar. The lifeboat drill was quick and efficient. The internet worked. All this meant that very shortly after embarkation, we were happily tucking into huge salads and chilled rosé in the blazing Vancouver sunshine, float planes zipping back and forth across the bay, and yachts out on the water. Everybody gathered on deck for sail away, champagne flowing as we slid under the Lions Gate Bridge, leaving Vancouver Harbour and setting a course north. Looking around, I was surprised; I’d expected Regent’s clientele to be older but several families were on board. And while the vast majority of the 555 passengers were American, there were 14 nationalities among us, including 12 Australians. I’ve been to Alaska before and while it’s possible to find a decent cruise at a lower price than you’d pay for Regent, the budget-buster is the excursions, which are uniformly expensive. Ten years ago, a ziplining tour from Ketchikan for me and two children cost upwards of AU$880. So it’s a huge bonus that Regent includes excursions; not just one token tour in each port, but a wide choice. As an example, in Ketchikan alone, we could have gone canoeing, sea kayaking or hiking; joined a Duck tour or a rainforest expedition; or indulged in a crab feast, a pub crawl or a lumberjack show. We pre-booked activities in every port, which on other cruise lines could have cost well over AU$1,000 each.
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ariner is one of Regent’s older ships, less grand in feel than the swanky new Explorer or Splendor. Our suite was done out in pale marble, cream and pale olive, with a big balcony and a bathroom filled with L’Occitane products. The ship’s
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“ Seven Seas Mariner, as one officer put it, is the seagoing equivalent of a ‘big, warm hug’ – and she was right.” interiors are elegant and contemporary without being flashy or intimidating. Mariner, as one officer put it, is the seagoing equivalent of a “big, warm hug” – and she was right. I’ve never sailed with such happy, friendly crew in such a soothing environment. As we wove our way through the island-specked Inside Passage, I went to a talk by social anthropologist Terry Breen to learn more about the 49th state. Alaska, she said, has three million lakes, the highest coastal mountain range in the world, a mere 740,000 inhabitants and more private pilots than any other US state, as it’s more useful to be able to fly a plane than drive a car. Heavy, grey skies hung over Ketchikan, our first port, the clouds brushing the tips of the forest. I joined a kayak trip around Eagle Island, where a massive bald eagle’s nest rests in the top of a tree. As the sun emerged, one resident of the nest perched on a treetop, watching for the silver flash of a salmon. Harbour seals popped their heads out of the water to inspect the kayaks. The trees along the shoreline were festooned with strings of Methuselah’s beard, a bluegreen lichen that can only thrive in exceptionally clean air. Cruise &Travel
26/10/2022 12:00 pm
The Alaskan adventure
Clockwise, from far left: Dining at Chartreuse on Seven Seas Mariner; the Compass Rose restaurant; the pool lounge; excursion to Ketchikan; and whale-watching.
Concierge
What should I pack? Pack for all eventualities in Alaska. Waterproof hiking trousers and a lightweight waterproof top are essential. Wear layers underneath as conditions can vary from hot and sunny to windy and wet. Good walking boots are a must, too. Bring binoculars to spot whales, eagles and bears. On board Seven Seas Mariner, evenings are “elegant casual”. There are no formal nights on the Alaska itineraries, so no need for tuxedos and long dresses. Most people change into something smarter for dinner, though; collared shirts for men and no jeans. Remember that laundry is included; it’s
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very easy to sink into a routine of sending your washing off in the morning and having it returned that night, immaculately pressed, nestling in tissue paper in a presentation box.
of other whales that they keep. You don’t just see whales; there are harbour seals to spot, colourful sea stars at the water’s edge, eagles in the trees and huge haul-outs of Steller sea lions.
Favourite excursion? My favourite excursion was whale watching, without a doubt. You will see whales and dolphins from the ship but a whale-watching boat trip gets you much closer to the animals (in a responsible manner, of course) and the wildlife guides on board have incredible knowledge. In Auke Bay, they can even identify individual whales by their behaviour, tail flukes and the company
Insider tip Plan ahead. Book excursions in advance as they do fill up, especially the included ones. Try all the restaurants, too. Prime 7 and Chartreuse don’t cost any extra and they’re excellent, but you do need to book. Ask for a window table; there’s always something to see in the evenings, from blazing sunsets to dolphins escorting the ship out of port.
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26/10/2022 12:01 pm
Voyage
REGENT SEVEN SEAS
“We were in front of a sheer wall of blue-white ice, shot through with streaks of sapphire, rumbling and emitting cracking sounds.”
In Juneau, I opted for a whale-watching tour in Auke Bay. Here, the tree-tufted peaks of rocky islands are actually the tops of submerged mountains, and humpbacks come to feed in the deep, nutrient-rich trenches between the islands. We quickly spotted a whale blow and over the course of a couple of hours, a further 14 animals, swimming, diving, logging (lying still in the water) and as a grand finale, breaching, leaping right out of the water and crashing down with a mighty splash.
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verywhere we went, the scenery deserved as much attention as the wildlife. Blue-white glaciers edged over distant hanging valleys in a brooding, monochrome landscape of grey sea and grey sky, wisps of mist hanging in the air. Shafts of sunlight illuminated the bottle green of the spruce and hemlock trees. Towering mountain peaks were splotched with snow, even in August. Nowhere, though, was the scenery more spectacular than Skagway. I’d become fascinated by the stories of the Gold Rush of 1897, when some 100,000 prospectors dragged their gear on foot and horseback over the impossibly steep White Pass, one of only two routes from the coast to the goldfields of the Yukon. Conditions were horrendous; snow and ice in winter, mud in summer, and more than 3,000 horses died. Shortly after the stampede fizzled out, the White Pass and Yukon Route railroad was built. Today, its vintage carriages trundle a spectacular, narrow-gauge track up across the pass to White Horse in Canada. The train rattles along the contours of the mountains, clattering over impossibly spindly bridges, as waterfalls tumble down cliff faces. At one point, the original trail, no more than 30 centimetres wide, follows the track of the railway, a reminder of how treacherous the route must have been. No such hardship on Mariner, where we’d settled into a routine of sunset martinis, cocktail melodies and spectacular meals. Food on board is essentially what you want it to be; gourmet international and French cuisine, or rib-eye, lobster tail and lamb chops every day. Or my choice, healthier dishes of
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Breaking the ice
Champagne on deck with an up-close view of the Hubbard glacier; Seven Seas Mariner on one of its Alaskan journeys.
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poke bowls and Thai curries. I found a juice bar at breakfast for ginger shots and gorged myself at the salad bar for lunch. Much of this effort was undone at afternoon tea, which one day included an entire buffet of cheesecakes, from red velvet to sticky toffee, apple and caramel and chocolate. There was still time for burning off the cheesecake at Icy Strait Point on the densely forested Chichagof Island, where there are allegedly more bears than people. We joined a hike to the Spasski river, a prime bear-watching spot, traipsing through the primeval, lichen-draped forest, the only sound was the call of ravens and the gentle spatter of rain on leaves. Bald eagles eyed us from the trees. Giant and unfamiliar plants crowded the damp forest floor. Salmon were leaping in the river, trying to force their way upstream. We could see bear tracks – but no bears revealed themselves that day. I didn’t
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really mind; sometimes, knowing the animals are there is enough. Besides, the adventure wasn’t over. I got up early on the final day to find my fellow passengers downing bloody marys and mimosas in the Observation Lounge. There was an air of excitement, not just fuelled by such decadent early-in-the-day drinking. Outside, we were in front of a sheer wall of blue-white ice, shot through with streaks of sapphire, rumbling and emitting pistol-shot cracking sounds. The ship was slowly approaching the mighty Hubbard Glacier. Captain Aivo Palm slowly spun her around in a balletic circle, so we could take in the 5,480-metre mountains plunging straight into the sea and rivers of ice flowing down rock faces, feeding the glacier. The scene summed up the cruise to me: the raw power and beauty of nature, balanced by just the right level of decadence. CT
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