Budapest's Finest 2017 winter

At Budapest's GATE: VÁC

caves in the city

A BITE-SIZED PIECE OF COUNTRYSIDE

WINTER | 2017

The five Star City Guide

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almost 40 venues more than 100 programmes

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Introduction

Dear Reader, On behalf of the World Tourism Organization (UNWTO), the United Nations Specialized Agency for Tourism, I welcome you. Let me call your attention to the importance of tourism: this industry represents 10% of the global GDP, and it is responsible for one in every ten jobs worldwide.

Dear Guest,

Finally, let me take this opportunity to wish all our readers a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

This space is too limited to list all the progress happening in Budapest in 2018: mega investments in hotel construction, development of cultural and scientific attractions, as well as the on-going organisation of sporting events. The ibis Styles Budapest Airport Hotel opening at Ferenc Liszt International Airport is accepting bookings from January. You can read about our first (and much-needed) airport hotel on page 56 of this magazine.

The Parisi Court Hotel Budapest will open in the spring in the heart of the City Centre. The 110-room hotel belongs to The Unbound Collection by Hyatt, which is the highest brand in the Hyatt chain. The historical building is the second in Europe to obtain this luxury classification, alongside the Louvre Hotel in Paris.

The Matild Palace is being refurbished by the Marriott chain: according to plans the hotel will accept guests by the end of 2018.

Across the street, the Klotild Palace has been home to the renowned Buddha-Bar Hotel since 2012. Soon guests will be able to view the Pest bridgehead of the Elisabeth Bridge from the windows of not one, but two supremely elegant hotels.

Pannon Park is being built on the grounds of the former amusement park at City Park. The new complex introduces the Carpathian Basin’s flora and fauna—its central facility is going to be a biodome that serves as a covered park. The Park will be opened to the public gradually: the first phase is planned to be ready by 2018.

Renovation of the functionally expanded Museum of Fine Arts is also going to be completed by 2018. Its biggest attraction will be the Roman Hall, refurbished after 70 years, which may already be visitable by next spring.

The Hungarian capital offers several places and means for the entertainment of its guests. In April they may cheer for the teams competing in the Ice Hockey World Championship. In October they can witness the excitement of the Wrestling World Championship. I am convinced that—just as for the 2017 World Aquatics Championship—Budapest will prove to be an excellent host to the European Congress (held in Budapest for the first time) of the United Networks of International Corporate Event Organizers (UNICEO), as well as the celebrations of World Tourism Day 2018.

Zoltán Somogyi Executive Director UNWTO

Teodóra Bán Director Budapest Festival and Tourism Center

In order to highlight the relevance of tourism, the United Nations declared 2017 the International Year of Sustainable Tourism for development (IY2017). Tourism can contribute to all the three dimensions of sustainable development—economic, social and environmental— while keeping in mind each of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals. Therefore, IY2017 is promoting the role of tourism in five key areas: inclusive and sustainable economic growth; social inclusiveness, employment and poverty reduction; resource efficiency, environmental protection and climate change; cultural values, diversity and heritage; and, finally, mutual understanding, peace and security.

The Budapest Festival and Tourism Centre once again participated in the 2017 World Tourism Day celebration, which was dedicated to IY2017. Budapest has become one of the most visited cities in Europe, and the Hungarian capital will continue to fascinate visitors year round with its fabulous heritage and sights.

In 2018, the official international celebrations of the World Tourism Day 2018 will be hosted by Hungary.

The agenda is an important one: tourism and digital transformation. This shows that Hungary and Budapest are living in a very good moment—and we are all invited to celebrate together!

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2017 | Winter

CONTENTS

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City Centre, Lipótváros

From Fővám Square to Szent István Boulevard

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City Centre: all in one place 6 „A true metropolis never sleeps” 20 Wreath, lentils, doughnuts 24 Advent and Christmas Fair in Budapest 28

Vác: at Budapest’s gate 30

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A City of curiosities

City Guide

Vác, a stone’s throw away from Budapest

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Caves in the city Budapest throws its hat in the ring A new career built on silver boots Looking for personalities A bite-sized piece of the Hungarian countryside Casual elegance Shopping guide Programme Corner

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40 42 46 50 54 56 58 60 62

Caves in the city

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A bite-sized piece of the Hungarian countryside

On the cover: The statue of painter Ignác Roskovics on the Danube Promenade (artwork by Ungvár sculptor Mihajlo Kolodko)

To see the location on the map, simply scan the QR code with your smartphone.

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4 Photo: © István Práczky

From Fôvám Square to Szent István Boulevard Almost every major city in Europe was founded several millennia ago. Our wise ancestors chose spots with easy access to water or in the vicinity of sheltering mountains. In the 2nd century the Romans built the rectangular fort of ContraAquincum on one of the biggest islands they found in the swampy area intersected by several branches of the Danube. The building served as an important stronghold of the Roman Empire’s frontier, as it stood facing Gellért Hill on a spot that is now Március 15. Square. Its task was to supervise the Danube crossing point that had been in use since ancient times, located on the Pest side of today’s Elisabeth Bridge, and the trade route leading up to it. The fort survived the Migration Period between the 4th and 10th centuries, and was then occupied by the conquering Magyars.

The population grew and the town grew with it; its borders expanded farther and farther.

However, the neighbourhood between Fôvám Square and Szent István Boulevard, the City Centre, remains the heart of Budapest to this day.

Matild and Klotild Palaces The characteristic English neo-baroque, eclectic-style buildings are forming a symbolic gate to the Elisabeth Bridge

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City Centre – all in one place

History, tourism, fashion and gastronomy Text: András Oláh • Photos: István Práczky / budapestinfo.hu

The inner core of the Hungarian capital has been scorched by the storms of history, but the area has come to be a symbol of revival. The small number of remaining old houses in District V (located in the inner part of the current city), combine with more recent classicist or eclectic-style buildings to form a harmonious whole.

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City Centre

Medieval Pest was built around a former Roman fortress. There are several theories regarding the origin of the town’s name. In one of his works the scholar Ptolemy, who lived in the 2nd century, refers to the city as Pession. Pest was burned down during the Mongolian invasion of 1241-1242, but thanks to its favourable location and the fact that Budavár, on the opposite side of the river Danube, became the new royal seat, the city re-emerged fairly soon. Pest expanded during the reigns of Sigismund of Luxembourg and Matthias Corvinus. Traces of the medieval city walls now hidden behind the rows of houses of Deák Ferenc Street, Károly Boulevard, Múzeum Boulevard and Vámház Boulevard indicate the historical town’s borders. (Actual ruins of the wall can be seen at the playground located on the corner of Só Street and Veres Pálné Street, and on the section of Ferenczy István Street that lies between Múzeum Boulevard and Magyar Street.)

The importance of Pest decreased significantly after the Ottomans occupied Budavár in 1541. The city was, once again, almost completely destroyed during the siege of 1686, which was fought to reconquer the castle. Following the expulsion of the Ottomans, German, Hungarian, Serb, Greek, Jewish and Slovak settlers moved into Pest, laying the foundations for the multicultural atmosphere that now characterises the city. By the 18th century Pest outgrew its medieval borders, which led to the dismantling of the wall and the city gates. In 1790 the neighbouring northern territories were

Photo: © timelord.blog.hu

Witnessing centuries and millennia

divided and named Lipótváros (Leopold Town) in honour of Leopold II. The great flood of 1838 caused severe damage to Pest’s medieval buildings, and their reconstruction reflected the style of the era, namely classicism. Hungarian bourgeoisie flourished during the period called the Reform Era, which reached its peak with the 1848 Revolution. Many important revolutionary events took place in the City Centre. Several noteworthy figures of this period are commemorated with statues, and numerous streets and squares are named after them in District V: “the Greatest Hungarian” Count István

Pest on an illustration of a Parisian magazine published in 1854

The Pest city walls in a street next to Múzeum Boulevard

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Photo: © fortepan.hu

Shoes on the Danube Bank—a Holocaust memorial by Can Togay and Gyula Pauer

The retreating German troops blew up the bridges in Budapest on 18 January 1945.

Pictured is the Chain Bridge

Széchenyi, the statesman and wealthy patron who spearheaded the construction of the Chain Bridge and the Hungarian Academy of Science; Sándor Petôfi, the poet who became the symbol of the Revolution; Lajos Kossuth, the leading statesman of the war for independence; and Ferenc Deák, “the Wise Man of the Nation” and outstanding national leader who emerged in the period of Austrian retribution.

Following the “Compromise” of 1867, the towns of Pest, Buda and Óbuda were united in 1873. The newly formed city—Budapest—was to be the second capital of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, alongside Vienna. Workshops and small manufactories located in the historical neighbourhood were replaced by elegant tenement buildings and palaces housing the wealthy bourgeoisie. Lipótváros became the country’s administrative and financial centre. Building the Pest quay in the 1860s helped form the current character of the City Centre. The riverbank promenade above the quay was frequented by countless Hungarian and international celebrities, including Franz Liszt, Franz Joseph I and soprano star Jessye Norman.

Budapest suffered its greatest loss—in terms of both human life and architectural heritage— during the city’s World War II siege, which lasted for several months. The Memorial to the Victims of the German Invasion and the Monument for Soviet Liberation were erected on Liberty Square

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City Centre

(Szabadság tér) to commemorate the suffering of those months. The Shoes on the Danube Bank, a joint piece by Can Togay and Gyula Pauer located on the Antall József Sr. Quay, serves as a memorial to Holocaust victims. In 2016 the memorial was named the second most significant public installation by the online edition of Architectural Digest, a prestigious American journal.

The Main Parish Church of the Assumption

Buildings of faith A memento of a former, still fortified Pest, the Main Parish Church of the Assumption located at the foot of the Elisabeth Bridge is the oldest church in the city: it was built on Roman foundations and its history reaches back almost one thousand years. The church was first reshaped in the 14th century in gothic style, then enlarged during the reign of Matthias Corvinus, Hungary’s renaissance ruler. During the Ottoman occupation it served as a mosque; the mihrab (prayer booth) visible on the building’s southeastern side is a reminder of this era. The church acquired its current façade during its 18th century baroque reconstruction. The crypt was opened to the public in 2017: it now houses an exhibition of Roman

The Franciscans’ Square

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and medieval finds excavated in recent years.

Mendicant orders set foot in the city in the 13th century. The buildings of the Franciscan Church and Monastery have dominated Franciscans’ Square (Ferenciek tere) since 1250. After the destruction brought on by the Ottomans, the church was rebuilt in 1743 in Italian baroque style. Lajos Batthyány, Hungary’s first prime minister, was buried in the crypt of the church. A relief placed on the building’s wall facing Kossuth Lajos Street commemorates the deeds of Miklós Wesselényi, “The Boatman of the Deluge,” who saved many lives during the icy floods of 1838.

The Dominican Order founded a church and a monastery in the southern part of the city, also in the 13th century. After the Ottomans left, the order rebuilt the church dedicated to St. Michael and the neighbouring monastery in Váci Street: both were finished in the 18th century. In the 1780s Joseph II, an absolutist Habsburg ruler, outlawed the orders he deemed “useless”. The Sisters of Loreto, a congregation dedicated to female education, moved into the building. To this day the neighbouring monastery, which also undertakes educational functions, belongs to them.

The Order of St. Paul met a similar end thanks to the measures taken by Joseph II. The building they vacated was thereafter occupied by the Faculty of Law of the Royal Hungarian University, which still operates here, albeit now as part of Eötvös Loránd University (ELTE). The same square—named Egyetem tér or University Square—houses the baroque-style University Church, which was finished in 1770. It was inThe statue of Sándor Petőfi on Március 15. Square, with the Hungarian Orthodox Cathedral of Our Lady in the background

The St. George Serbian Orthodox Church

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City Centre

The Servite Order chose the northern part of old Pest to build a church and a monastery after the expulsion of the Ottomans. However, today the only reminder of the Servites’ presence in the city is the Church of St. Anne consecrated in 1732, and the baroque statute of the Virgin Mary erected in front of it. The adjoining monastery was pulled down after suffering substantial damage in World War II; its place is now occupied by the building of the former Inner City Telephone Centre. By 2019 a luxury apartment complex and a boutique hotel called Emerald Residence will be opened in its spot.

Right beside the Main Parish Church of the Assumption, the Piarists have been conducting educational activities for three hundred years. Their imposing, hundred-year-old building houses both the Sapientia College of Theology of Religious Orders and the Secondary School of the Piarist Fathers, the latter being one of the best high schools in the country. However, competition is rather high in the neighbourhood: the City Centre boasts several centuries-old secondary schools that are all at the forefront of Hungarian education. Eötvös József High School, Veres Pálné High School, and ELTE’s Apáczai Csere János Practice School are all located just a few corners from each other.

Besides the Catholic Church, there are several other denominations present in the City Centre. Szerb Street, and the orthodox church of St. George located here, commemorate the Serb settlers fleeing from the Ottomans at the end of the 17th century. The baroque garden-encompassed building was finished in 1733, but it soon became too crowded for the Greek and Aromanian-speaking traders who sailed up on the Danube or moved into the city. Eventually they purchased land from the Piarists and built their own church on the riverbank at the end of the 18th century.

Photo: © emeraldresidence.hu

corporated into the Royal University’s Faculty of Theology, which later became an independent institute of higher education named after Catholic Cardinal Péter Pázmány. Behind the Faculty of Law, on the corner of Szerb Street and Nyáry Pál Street, stands the former monastery of the Order of St. Clare. The female order follows the teachings of Francis of Assisi and has had an especially strong presence in Óbuda. Their baroque church and monastery were finished in the 18th century.

After the decree of Joseph II, the imposing building first became a pawnshop, then a warehouse.

Since the 20th century it has been used for various educational functions; today the building is occupied by ELTE.

The Piarist building that houses the Secondary School and the Sapientia College

The Emerald Residence is being built on Szervita Square beside the Church of St. Anne

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The Lutheran Church on Deák Ferenc Square. The memorial in the foreground is dedicated to Lutheran pastor Gábor Sztehlo (artwork by Tamás Vígh)

Rear view of St. Stephen’s Basilica

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The Lutheran congregation of Pest formed at the end of the 18th century in the northeastern corner of the city, and it started educational activities immediately. The Lutheran Church on Deák Square is the biggest Protestant church of the capital, and the neighbouring Lutheran High School of Deák Tér is one of the leading secondary schools in Hungary. The poet of the 1848 Revolution, Sándor Petôfi, studied in the institution’s predecessor for a short while.

The 96-metre-high neo-renaissance St. Stephen’s Basilica is one of the main attractions in the city. The church has become the centre of the cult of St. Stephen, and the king’s right hand (the Holy Dexter) is guarded here as a relic. At midnight on New Year’s Eve all six bells of the Basilica are sounded to welcome the New Year. Several renowned athletes and Olympic champions are buried in its crypt, including Ferenc Puskás and other members of Hungarian football’s Golden Team.

City Centre

The meeting room of the “New City Hall”

The administrative centre Despite numerous enlargements, Pest’s former city hall located behind the Church of the Assumption was unable to keep up with the city’s growing administrative needs. The situation was further complicated by the 1873 unification of Pest, Buda and Óbuda. The building was eventually pulled down to make space for the Elisabeth Bridge. The so-called “New City Hall” designed by Imre Steindl—the same architect who designed the Parliament building—was finished in 1870 on the southern part of Váci Street.

The building boasts an imposing neo-gothic cast iron structure framing its main staircase and a beautiful wainscoted meeting hall. Nevertheless, the administration’s pressing need for space was finally resolved by the House of the Invalids, which, after undergoing several modifications and refurbishments, has been serving as the capital’s City Hall since 1894. Neighbouring the complex of considerable proportions, we find the Pest County Hall, one of the most outstanding pieces of classicist architecture.

The neo-gothic Parliament building designed

by Imre Steindl is one of the most prominent public buildings in Hungary. It is 265 metres long and 123 metres wide. Currently four of the Hungarian Coronation Jewels are guarded in the Parliament building: the Holy Crown, the Scep-

Night view of the lit up Parliament building

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he former Palace of Justice is one of the most beautiful buildings of Kossuth Square

The building of the former Postal Savings Bank is decorated with Zsolnay roof tiles

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tre, the Orb and the Sword. Several significant 20th century historical events are connected to Kossuth Square, which stretches in front of the building. Following the 1918 “Aster Revolution” and the 1956 Revolution, the square also witnessed the birth of the Third Hungarian Republic, proclaimed here in 1989 after forty years of dictatorship.

Located on the opposite side of Kossuth Square, the Palace of Justice was designed by Alajos Hauszmann and was completed in 1896. Originally housing the Royal Hungarian Curia, now it serves as the Museum of Ethnography—but this will only be the case until the new museum facility is finished in City Park, when the old building will again revert to the Curia.

Financial headquarters

Administrative and judicial establishments are accompanied by financial institutions, which have been expanding in Lipótváros. Hungary’s first modern financial institution, the Hungarian Commercial Bank of Pest, was founded in 1840. It first operated on Vörösmarty Square in the building that later became known as the Gerbeaud House. Following the first bank and the 1867 Compromise, several other credit institutions and insurance companies set up shop in the district, which played a crucial role in the economic upturn experienced by Budapest and Hungary in the period of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy.

The most prominent banks are located on Liberty Square, an intriguing historical square in

City Centre the Parliament neighbourhood. The building occupying the southeastern side of the square was finished in 1905. Originally designed by Ignác Alpár for the Austro-Hungarian Bank, it is now used by the Hungarian National Bank. The neighbouring palace, a breathtaking example of Hungarian art nouveau architecture, used to be the headquarters of the Royal Hungarian Postal Savings Bank: it now belongs to the Hungarian State Treasury. The western part of the square is dominated by the former Stock Exchange Palace, which housed the studios of Hungarian State Television before the regime change. The palace is currently empty, but will be converted into an office building by 2020. Recently it served as filming location for the massive Hollywood production Blade Runner 2049. The Bank Center, designed by architect József Finta, is located in the square’s southeastern corner. Opened in

1995, the four towers of the ten-storey complex offer 32 thousand square metres of premium category offices. Its ground floor houses various commercial shops, such as an elegant tailor salon, a travel agency, an international courier service, a health centre, a restaurant and a gym.

Main entrance of the Hungarian National Bank, and the Bank Center across the square

Entertainment, fashion After taxing work days, members of the Pest political and financial elite sought recreation in the City Centre. The elegant social circles of the time frequented various scenes, such as coffeehouses, casinos and clubs. A great survivor among the old-fashioned coffeehouses of olden days is Café Gerbeaud, a patisserie that has been operating on Vörösmarty Square since 1884. The Swiss-born confectioner Emil Gerbeaud was responsible for introducing several iconic sweets to Budapest, like French mignon, or “konyakosmeggy” (chocolate-covered sour cherries filled with cognac) and “macskanyelv” (“cat’s tongue”: tongue-shaped bars of chocolate), the latter two bringing him nation-wide recognition.

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The section of Váci Street that stretches between Fôvám Square and Vörösmarty Square used to be the high street of fashion before 1990. Members of the international “haute volée” including Zsazsa Gábor and Jovanka Broz had their dresses made at the renowned Rotschild Salon. The limited edition, exclusive products of tailor salons, shoe- and knitwear manufacturers were quenched by the apparition of commercial centres offering a variety of elegant foreign brands. These gradually conquered the City Centre’s shopping street too, but they ultimately gravitated toward Deák Ferenc Street. The Fashion Street concept finally realised here targets sophisticated shoppers with beautifully restored architectural heritage and elegant, uniform shopfronts. The assortment features international fashion brands such as Furla, Hugo Boss, Intimissimi, Lacoste, Massimo Dutti, Nike, Zara Home and Tommy Hilfiger, as well as Süel, a Hungarian brand created 25 years ago

by Zsuzsa Csillag, which reimagined the trend of knitwear.

The Fashion Street adorned with holiday lights

Fröccsterasz is a popular meeting spot on Elisabeth Square

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The Central Coffeehouse located at the beginning of Károlyi Street is designed to bring back the atmosphere of a former age. Originally opened in 1887, it served as the heart of Pest’s intellectual society up to the end of the 1930s. It was reopened at the end of the 1990s. The Danube Palace on Zrínyi Street now offers primarily folklore programmes, but the building used to house the former Lipótváros Casino. Opened in 1897, the casino’s 300-person theatre hall was visited by illustrious guests such as American writer Mark Twain or Czech composer Antonín Dvoˇrák.

The Pesti Vigadó concert hall is probably the most prominent cultural centre of District V. The romantic-style building was designed by Frigyes Feszl and is lavishly decorated with frescoes and statues. Several outstanding artists dominating the music scene in their time—such as Brahms, Debussy, Dvoˇrák, Liszt, Mascagni and SaintSaëns—came to perform at the Vigadó after its 1865 opening. The square in front of the Vigadó offers one of the best views of the Buda Castle.

Tram #2 also stops in front of the building; the line was featured among the 10 most beautiful tramlines in the world in the National Geographic publication titled Journeys of a Lifetime.

Nowadays the heart of Budapest’s social life is Elisabeth Square. The Aquarium Club is located under the square; its 1300-person capacity hall and its 700-capacity small hall host concerts of renowned Hungarian and international pop stars practically every day. Performers such as Klaxons, Fritz Kalkbrenner, Marina And The Diamonds, Sasha, and the Eagles Of Death Metal have played here in the past. On summer evenings the club’s terrace of steps along with the

City Centre

rest of the square serves as a common meeting point for locals and tourists alike. Neighbouring venues—located in the building of a former long-distance coach station—aim to profit from the square’s popularity. The Terminal Restaurant and the Fröccsterasz / Prosit Bar serving modern cuisine and advocating Hungarian wine are both well-liked among affluent clientele. The Budapest Eye is the square’s touristic attraction. Europe’s largest mobile Ferris wheel takes its riders to dizzying heights above the city. Ötkert and the adjoining KRAFT Club are popular nightclubs on Zrínyi Street, awaiting partygoers with a variety of electronic-based dance music and resident DJs. In the summer period open-air terraces (such as Pontoon and Raqpart, located on either end of the Chain Bridge) widen the selection further.

First-class hospitality The City Centre of Pest has been and will be an important stop for tourists. As the tourism industry gained momentum, car traffic has been reduced or entirely banned from this area. Váci Street, which is traditionally considered the high street of this part of town, was transformed into a pedestrian area, and pedestrians were also given priority on several streets leading from Kálvin Square to Liberty Square (Kecskeméti Street, Károlyi Street, Petôfi Sándor Street, Bécsi Street, Október 6. Street).

A row of exclusive hotels was already constructed on the Danube Promenade in the 19th century, but was destroyed during World War II In the 1970s

The Vigadó.

Next to the Marriott Hotel, the building is located in the middle of the Danube bank hotel row

The domed hall of The Ritz-Carlton

Photo: © 2015 Matthew Shaw

The statue of Hermes in front of the Fontana House on Váci Street

and 1980s modern hotels belonging to international chains (Sofitel, InterContinental, Marriott) were erected in their stead. The newest addition is the Four Seasons Hotel on Széchenyi Square.

Opened in 2004 in the refurbished Gresham Palace, this hotel might just be the favourite lodging of Hollywood actors shooting in Budapest.

The five-star Kempinski Hotel Corvinus Budapest was opened in 1992—the first in Hungary to operate as a joint venture. The nearby Ritz-Carlton is also a luxury hotel, transformed from the office complex of the former Adria Insurance Company. In recent years market demand has led to significant development and renovation of several classicist buildings. A prominent example is Aria Hotel on Hercegprímás Street, which ranked second on Condé Nast Taveler’s list of top hotels in Central Europe, published in the fall of 2017. The Prestige Hotel on Hold Street is unique on account of its roof terrace offering an unparalleled experience in the summer months. The Prestige Hotel on Vigyázó Ferenc Street boasts a Michelin star restaurant: Costes Downtown.

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Hotel Astoria was built beside the so-called Hatvan gate of the old Pest city wall

The Petőfi Literary Museum (Károlyi Palace)

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The old-fashioned Hotel Astoria carries great historical significance in this part of town. Located on the corner of Múzeum Boulevard and Kossuth Lajos Street, the hotel now belongs to the Hungary-based Danubius Hotels Group. The two Klotild Palaces forming the gate of the Elisabeth Bridge were finished in 1902, following the designs of Flóris Korb and Kálmán Giergl. The northern palace now houses the Buddha-Bar Hotel, and the southern building is also being converted into a multifunctional luxury hotel, which will be operated by the Marriott chain. Another large-scale investment is underway in the area: on the corner of Franciscans’ Square and Petôfi Sándor Street towers the Paris Courtyard, a building with a unique atrium combining elements of moorish, art deco and neo-gothic styles. It is currently being converted into a luxury hotel as part of the Hyatt Hotel Chain. The new hotel’s classification will equal that of the Hˆotel du Louvre in Paris; a category no other European hotel has reached so far.

Promoting culture The Károlyi Palace stands halfway between Kálvin Square and Franciscans’ Square. The baroquestyle building, originally finished in 1698, won its final classicist form after several bouts of reconstruction. Maria Theresa stood on its balcony to receive the greeting of Pest’s citizens. The Petôfi Literary Museum has been operating in the palace since 1954. The museum boasts an unparalleled assortment of Hungarian literary manuscripts and relics, as well as a unique collection of fine arts, books and journals. The cosy park hiding behind the building is a popular leisure spot.

Close to Franciscans’ Square, the Katona József Theatre located on Petôfi Sándor Street is considered one of the country’s leading arts theatres.

Originally a film theatre, the hall was later transformed into a cabaret and theatre venue. In 1982 a progressive group with Gábor Székely and Gábor Zsámbéki at its helm formed an independent troupe here, gaining significant international recognition in a short while. Today the theatre is led by actor and director Gábor Máté, and besides an assortment of classic theatre plays, it makes a point of adapting and premiering contemporary pieces reflecting actual social phenomena.

The Pesti Theatre, a chamber theatre of the Comedy Theatre, is located in the building of a former concert hall-turned cinema on Váci Street.

In District V, cinema-goers have a selection of historical art cinemas to choose from, including the grandiose Puskin on Kossuth Lajos Street, the 85-years-old Toldi (which on weekends also serves

City Centre as an alternative nightclub) on Bajcsy-Zsilinszky Street, as well as the 25-year-old Cirko-Gejzír, located on Balassi Bálint Street.

Peter Falk’s statue was erected in front of the Kieselbach Gallery, inspired by the name of the art dealers’ street

Almost a quarter of a century ago another new cultural space formed in the northern part of Lipótváros. Falk Miksa Street, also dubbed the “Street of Art Galleries” saw the opening of various art shops clustering around the Szent István Boulevard auction house. Currently they not only deal with art, but also organise free exhibitions and mini-festivals promoting both historical traditions and contemporary figures of Hungarian fine arts. Significant art galleries of the street include Kieselbach Gallery and Auction House, Kálmán Makláry Fine Arts, Judit Virág Gallery and Auction House, and MissionArt Gallery.

Photo: © Petra Pako

Photo: © welovebudapest.com

The screening room of the Puskin Art Cinema

The Franciscans’ Square neighbourhood offers several old-fashioned restaurants to choose from.

The Kárpátia Restaurant first opened in 1877, but won its current name in 1933. The Apostolok Restaurant is located on neighbouring Kígyó Street and was established in 1903. Matthias Cellar on Március 15. Square was opened in 1904, and it offers a traditional Hungarian restaurant atmosphere with a wainscoted, historical interior and live Gipsy music. The capital’s oldest restaurant is the Százéves (“Hunded-year-old”) on Piarista Street.

The venue has been functioning uninterrupted since 1831, occupying the oldest intact secular baroque building in Pest. Certain studies claim that the inhabitants of the 1755 building were already running a tavern in the 18th century.

The historical interior of the Apostolok Restaurant

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“A true metropolis never sleeps”

New café opening in the Budapest's City Centre: Három Holló Text: Györgyi Orbán

Photo: © Németh Dániel

Három Holló was dreamt up and realised by Hamburg literary historian Wilhelm Droste, the translator of Endre Ady’s work. The café is housed in a Piarist-owned building located at the foot of the Elisabeth Bridge in Pest. Droste's previous café, the Eckermann, operated in the former building of the Budapest Goethe Institute at 24 Andrássy Avenue. Many years ago this was the venue called Három Holló (“Three Ravens”), the popular watering hole frequented by Endre Ady (1877-1919), one of the most renowned Hungarian poets of the 20th century. When the Goethe Institute moved to Ráday Street, Droste moved his café along with it. Before that, his first Budapest café was opened on Ajtósi-Dürer sor.

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City Centre

I really like Budapest. After studying the rich history of the Budapest coffeehouse culture in the 20th century, I opened Café Dürer with an enthusiastic group of students. The building formerly belonged to the Sacré Coeur girls’ school, then it housed the English and German Departments of the Eötvös Loránd University’s Faculty of Humanities, where I used to teach German literature.

A lot of young people visited the Dürer, which is now a ruin bar and a music centre. My very first café is still open in Hamburg, although I’m only a silent partner in the venture.

um is perfect for theatre plays, jazz concerts, dance galas and many more types of events.

How is your establishment different from other Budapest cafés?

Its biggest luxuries are the silence and the several newspapers within, many of which are in German, Austrian, Italian, Slovak, Romanian and Ukrainian. In this too, we aim to be versatile.

The café occupies four storeys: the ground floor houses a large, spacious (its ceiling is 6.5-7 metres high), and luminous coffeehouse with a terrace, where we will also host photo exhibitions every two months. Upstairs we have offices and service rooms. Going down, the first subterranean level is occupied by a club hall for occasional group meetups, like for people who come together to trade clock pieces—theirs was my favourite guest group on Andrássy Avenue—, or foreign-language discussion circles for those who want to practice their language skills to keep them in shape. The lowest floor is dedicated to theatre; our auditori-

How will the interior look? What kind of coffee will you serve, will you offer food along with the drinks?

The furniture from my previous cafés has been placed in storage, so I still have my Thonet chairs and marble tables. Our coffee will be shipped from Trieste, the port of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire and also one of the world’s coffee capitals. We will have no restaurant, but we will operate a small café kitchen. We plan to serve bratwurst originating from various cities of the Monarchy. We will offer several types of pastries and chimney cake. In the old coffeehouses, one of the ground rules was that no-one should leave because they are hungry, but no-one should come in on account of being hungry—so a café should be imagined like the city’s living room, even though we still serve breakfast. For now the Három Holló will welcome guests from 7am till midnight. Back

Photo: © Kaspar Heinrich / Tagesspiegel.de

How did you come up with the idea of reviving Ady’s pub, the Három Holló?

The idea was actually brought on by coincidence. Many years ago I published a book about Budapest, in which I wrote that the great author should be remembered by a lively café, not a marble plaque, and perhaps it would be a good idea to reopen the Három Holló. At the University I taught several Piarist students, and through them I became friends with a priest. Together we have been planning this for 5 years: to open the Három Holló in the heart of the City Centre, next to one of the oldest churches in Budapest, the Main Parish Church of the Assumption. Ours is not only a coffeehouse, but also a cultural centre, and it opens to the public on 22 November, which would be Ady’s 145th birthday.

Wilhelm Droste

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Photo: © István Práczky Photo: © István Práczky

The view from the windows of the freshly opened café: the Church of the Assumption

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Photo: © Dániel Németh

City Centre

in the day almost half of Pest’s 500 coffeehouses were open day and night, and I hope to get there too. If one is unable to sleep and feels like a walk, a cup of coffee, and some conversation, they will be welcome in the Három Holló. A true metropolis never sleeps, but Budapest—not quite a metropolis yet—still does.

Where does your love for Budapest come from?

I had no relatives or acquaintances from here, but I did fall in love: with a postage stamp. I was a big collector when I was 14, and I fell in love with a Hungarian stamp from 1959. It had a cross-country skier on it. I felt like that was me, and this is from where my Hungarian life was born. Reading stamps, I started to learn letters and phrases, such as “Enlist in the Red Army!”. In West Germany there was no proper book available on how to learn Hungarian, so I ordered one from the DDR. It arrived in 2 months, and then I started to learn this strange language in earnest as a high-school student in 1971.

At university I decided not to study Hungarian, as I wanted it to remain my passion. Hungarian language and literature was one of the factors that led me to choose to move to Hungary in 1989. This language is my heartbeat, I think Hungarian is closer to the heart than German is to the mind.

facebook.com/haromhollo/

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Wreath, lentils, doughnuts

Holiday customs from Advent to Lent Text: Zsuzsanna Tátrai

Photo: © István Práczky

The period between the Christmas season and Carnival festivities remains rich with tradition in Hungary. Advent and Christmas fairs, holiday lights, and the string of parties are all essential parts of these weeks. Tenement buildings and family homes sparkle with Christmas lights, and symbols such as stars, angels, candles, apples, pyramid-shaped candle holders, etc., adorn windowsills or are glued to glass windowpanes.

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City Centre

A living tradition

Preparing or buying an Advent wreath is a relatively new tradition. The popular custom originates from the beginning of the 19th century, when it was started in a Lutheran children’s home in Germany. Even though Advent wreaths are sold in department stores and florists, many people choose to prepare their own at home. Its first candle is lit on the fourth Sunday before 25 December. Much like Christmas trees, today Advent wreaths can be found not only in people’s homes, but in churches, workplaces, hotels, public buildings, schools, nurseries and even public spaces.

of Nagykarácsony, the name of which literally means Great Christmas. In Nagykarácsony the Hungarian Post introduced special holiday rubber stamping (the so-called “Post of Love” service) in 1989, which is available every year from the first Sunday of Advent.

According to legend, it was Martin Luther who first erected a Christmas tree for his family. What we know for a fact is that the custom reached Hungary through Protestant tradition at the beginning of the 19th century. Ornaments have changed with trends—and with reason. Real wax candles were replaced by colourful, sparkling strings of Christmas lights, lessening the risk of fire. One year the glass spheres hung on branches are golden, while in the next they are red—as dictated by current fashions.

Photo: © István Práczky

On the morning of St. Nicholas’ Day (6 December) various treats and a gilded branch of twigs are placed in the children’s carefully cleaned shoes waiting on the windowsill. Santa Claus also visits the Christmas fairs and the malls, where he rewards little children with sweets. In several countries the figure of St. Nicholas has merged with the character of a personified, benignant winter: in England and the USA he is called Santa Claus; the French have their Père Noël (Father Christmas); and Russians call him Djed Moros (Father Ice). For a few years now Joulupukki, the Lapland Santa, has also been visiting Hungary—by airplane! In the meantime the Hungarian Santa “lives” in the Fejér county village

Photo: © budapestinfo.hu

These days are all about being together, giving gifts, serving traditional meals, and the symbols mentioned above. Christmas is traditionally a family holiday. The elderly still remember how everyone used to stay in their houses on 25 December, not even stepping out to take out the trash, so they wouldn’t accidentally “sweep out” their luck.

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Foods served during Christmas and on New Year’s Eve used to be attributed with special powers capable of boosting one’s fertility and health.

The menu was plentiful and varied in order to ensure that the family had enough to eat in the upcoming year. It was believed that if one feasted on beans, peas, squash, noodles served with poppy seed, or scaly fish, one would have plenty of money in the next year. Family members also had to share all food and drink. At Christmas, an uncut loaf of bread was placed on the table, so the family would have enough bread throughout the entire year. Usually the first thing they tasted was wafers with honey (to be kind), black pepper (to be strong), and garlic (to be healthy). Another beautiful custom, to which many still adhere, is when the head of the family cuts an apple into as many pieces as there are family members present, and everyone takes a piece in order to keep the family together over the upcoming year.

If a lighter dinner is preferred, they will stick with the “fish menu”. However, most Central Eastern European tables are usually laden with heavy dishes featuring meat and cabbage—these days the smell of meat and cabbage wafts over the food section of Christmas markets. “Mákos guba” (Hungarian poppy-seed bread pudding) is also a traditional Christmas treat along with “bejgli,” a rolled cake usually filled with walnut or poppy-seed, or the recent fad of chestnut or plum jam.

People still refrain from eating poultry on New Year’s Eve, as it would scratch out their luck or cause it to fly away. This holiday calls for pork, roasted suckling pig, or aspic, since, according to the old tale, the pig’s snout would dig up one’s

Photo: © Mittecomm.com

What should we put on the table at Christmas?

Photo: © Mittecomm.com

Several families prepare their Christmas and New Year’s Eve meals in the traditional way.

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luck. Even in families not keeping these traditions, just to be sure, New Year’s Day would see lentils boiling in the pot: the multitude of small grains is believed to guarantee a multitude of money for the upcoming year.

Photo: © Mittecomm.com

City Centre

Photo: © Mittecomm.com

Today our holiday greetings are conveyed in text messages, e-mails, still photos or animated gifs, but their aim remains unchanged: to wish our family, friends and acquaintances merry Christmas and a happy New Year.

Shrovetide, or Carnival season—the ancient festival of welcoming spring—starts on 6 January, on the Feast of Epiphany. The season can last shorter or longer depending on the timing of Easter Sunday. On account of an early Easter, the 2018 Carnival season will be fairly short, finishing on 13 February—Shrove Tuesday—at midnight. The last three days used to bear a special significance in Hungarian folk tradition (Shrove Sunday, Shrove Monday and Shrove Tuesday).

This is when balls, carnival processions and kindergarten or school costume contests used to be held, and are still held today. “Busójárás,” the costumed procession of the Šokci, a Croatian ethnic group living in the town of Mohács, remains a popular touristic attraction. The Shrovetide festivities culminate in the Shrove Sunday Carnival. The abundant eating and drinking associated with this period used to have its own meaning: it was believed to ensure wealth and luck in the upcoming year. “Better the stomach burst than any food be left over!”—says the popular Hungarian proverb.

Cooking and baking started on the week preceding Shrove Sunday. Thursday was dubbed “Fat Thursday” since most dishes were already ready by that day. All food was supposed to be consumed by the time Lent started on Ash Wednesday. If this did not happen, the remains were eaten on

Photo: © emagdi / flicker.com

No food shall be left over

the next day, named “Truncated Thursday,” suspending the fast for a short time. This custom became popular again through restaurants holding a special “Gluttonous Thursday” deal every year, when they offer meals at discounted prices.

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7week gastro and crafts festival Holiday hospitality and traditional Hungarian crafts Photos: István Práczky / budapestinfo.hu

Budapest is one of the most enticing tourist destinations in Europe. The Budapest Advent and Christmas Fair on Vörösmarty Square attracts 800 thousand visitors every year, and it has been ranking among the top ten Christmas Fairs in the continent for several years now.

The Christmas Fair now awaits visitors with renewed programmes, where the traditional cuisine of various regions is introduced through themed gastro weeks and cooking shows.

From November to 31 December, visitors can enjoy a different holiday-related culinary presentation every week in the heart of Budapest. Naturally, flavours are accompanied by drinks, and visitors can choose their favourite from among the best of Hungarian wine regions. This year, the Hütte has been transformed into a bistro, which, hosted by sommelier, coffee and spirits specialist Tamás Czinege, serves as the focal hospitality centre of the fair. The kitchen is headed by resident chef Ramon Domingo Batta. The Hütte Bistro’s open kitchen offers a glimpse into a different area of gastronomy every day.

The Hütte Bistro is a novelty on the 2017 Christmas Fair

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On the week of St. Martin’s Day, goose dishes were served, paired with new wines. During “game week” the menu featured venison, game, wild boar, and hare, which were accompanied by medium and full-bodied red wines: Blaufrankish, Eger Bull’s Blood and Cabernet types.

Stuffed cabbage is an important cornerstone of Hungarian cuisine, and as such is an essential part of the Advent period, especially the Christmas holidays. The Somló region offers excellent complementing wines, primarily Juhfark, Hárslevelû and Gewürztraminer. The week between 4 and 10 December features typical Advent dishes, with fish dishes being most prominent. Furmint, Italian

City Centre Riesling, Leányka, and Kéknyelû are all considered exquisite “fish wines”.

Hanukkah holiday foods are explored between 11 and 17 December. Included are deep-fried doughnuts and flatbreads, sweet and savoury crêpes, as well as latke. Christmas dishes, such as fish soup, stuffed cabbage, stuffed roasts, and walnut cakes take over on 18 December. Kadarka pairs well with fish soup and roasts, but ice wine and Aszú also have important roles here. The last week of the year is dedicated to the New Year’s pig, which, according to tradition, digs out luck with its snout. Legumes—lentils and beans—are associated with wealth and are thought to guarantee a flush year. Beer and sparkling wine work perfectly with pork dishes.

More than one hundred craft booths offer beautiful wares in the Budapest Advent and Christmas Fair on Vörösmarty and Fôvám Squares. Craftsmen are chosen based on serious quality requirements, and they must comply with strict regulations in order to present their handmade, artistic-quality works at this grand event. More than half of the vendors are members of the Hungarian Crafts Association. The fair presents almost 20 different crafts, which illustrates the diversity and the high quality of the Hungarian crafts sector to Hungarian visitors and foreign tourists alike.

The Advent Wreath adorning Budapest’s busiest square was manufactured by the Zöld Fûz Wickerworks. The beautiful ornament measures more than 3 metres in diameter and half a metre in width; besides decorating the square, it is also one of the essential traditional symbols of the holiday atmosphere.

The wicker base is dressed up with Nordmann fir branches and several kilograms of rose hip. The wreath’s four candles are lit ceremonially at 4pm on each Sunday of Advent.

ment, and a heated crafts- and playhouse awaits children in the cold. There they can bake and decorate gingerbread and prepare gifts for the underprivileged. The real Finnish Santa Claus also visits the fair on Vörösmarty Square.

This year for the first time the younger “daughter” of the Vörösmarty Square fair has opened on Fôvám Square: a smaller Budapest Advent and Christmas Fair is being organised here. Moreover, the Advent in Budapest Winter Festival and Christmas Fair will also remain open in Városház Park until 27 December.

This year the fair features colourful programmes, with folk music, world music, or jazz drifting through the air: buskers, storytellers and puppet shows offer various forms of entertain-

budapestkaracsony.hu, budapestinfo.hu facebook.com/Budapest Christmas Fair

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30 Photo: Csizik Balรกzs / Mittecomm.com

HE ADER

At Budapest's gate:

Vác

Few towns can boast of having as many historical sights and treasures as Vác. Hungary’s only triumphal arch was erected here. The baroque bridge spanning over Gombás Creek is the only one in the country that remains functional. Also noteworthy are the more than two hundred naturally mummified 18th century human remains that have been found here.

Géza I, the fourth king of the Árpád dynasty, was buried here. Vác is the birthplace of the internationally renowned film director Miklós Jancsó. Other famous locals include Zoltán Kammerer, the three-time Olympic and threetime world champion kayaker. The prison located close to the triumphal arch used to hold not only the outlaws of olden days, but several noteworthy Hungarian historical figures as well. Café Gerbeaud’s former pastry chef, Béla Haraszti, has sculpted the town’s important buildings out of sugar, and of course other sweet treats are also plentiful.

The main square of Vác—Március 15.

Square—with the buildings of the hospital and the city hall

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City of curiosities

Vác as seen from the Danube

Photo: panoramio.com

Text: Zsuzsa Mátraházi

There are two ways to access one of the biggest towns in Pest county.

You may use the four-lane highway that entirely avoids residential areas, though this route will only be completed in 2019. The other way is to follow the curve of the Danube, on a road winding through popular holiday destinations. However, the fastest and easiest way to reach Vác is by getting on a train in Budapest’s Nyugati Railway Station, from which you can arrive in the historical city within 25 minutes.

Moreover, this way you will have travelled on Hungary’s first railway: a steam engine, called “iron steed” at the time, first chugged on these rails on 15 July 1846.

Following the completion of the Vác line, a veritable railway construction fever broke out in Hungary, delighting many who would no longer need to bounce along on their carts across the muddy, uneven roads.

At the heart of the Danube Bend

Vác is considered not only the “Northern Gate” of Budapest, but also the heart of the Danube Bend. The town lies on the left bank of the river that flows through Hungary, right at the foot of Naszály Hill that closes the range of the Carpathian Mountains. Thanks to its pleasant location and favourable circumstances, this area was already inhabited well before the start of the Common Era. 32

Written sources first mention Vác in the middle of the 1070s.

According to the author of a legend detailed in the Chronicon Pictum, the settlement was named after a hermit called Wach.

Prince Géza (1044-1077) met the holy man before eventually winning the fight for the Hungarian crown. He returned to these parts as King to hunt with his brother—who later became St. Ladislaus, King of Hungary (1046-1095). They saw a deer carrying lit candles between its antlers. The animal led

the brothers to a rise on the riverbank, then disappeared. Inspired by the vision, Géza I had a church erected on the spot. The king was buried here, but his remains were never located among the ruins of the cathedral, which was destroyed by invading Mongol hordes in the mid-13th century.

Photo: panoramio.com

Vác

The town also serves as the seat of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Vác, one of the earliest dioceses created by St. Stephen, the first King of Hungary. The church built by Géza I burned down during the Mongol invasion, condemning the town’s population that barricaded itself within to a fiery death. Béla IV (1206-1270) invited South German settlers to repopulate the desolate, ruined town. They started building in the area that is now Vác’s Main Square, lying north of the former town centre. The settlers also erected a church and named it after St. Michael—the town’s patron saint—, the ruins of which can still be seen in the middle of the square today.

History and science

Photo: Csizik Balázs / Mittecomm.com

The town acquired its baroque character in the 18th century. The St. Roch Chapel was built in the hopes of stopping the decimating plague that raged in the 1740s. The construction of the PiThe Church of the Whites and the ruins of the medieval St. Michael Church

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Photo: panoramio.com Photo: panoramio.com

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arist church was finished thereafter, and finally the Dominican church was consecrated too.

Thanks to the white habit worn by its monks, the latter was often referred to as the “Church of the Whites”.

It would come as no surprise if the church were attributed with miraculous powers too, at least after a truly unique treasure was uncovered here while renovating the building in 1994. Two-hundred and sixty-five 18th century mummies have been found in a hidden cellar, all of them preserved naturally. The corpses were lying in beautifully painted coffins, detailing the name, date of death, and in some cases even the cause of death of each of the deceased. How could the bodies remain in such a good condition without any artificial intervention? After examining the climate of the crypt, experts from Eötvös Loránd University’s Department of Meteorology found that regardless of the changing seasons outside, the cellar’s temperature stayed between 8 and 11°C at all times. Another important factor was that the coffins were made of pinewood, and wood shavings were sprinkled around the corpses. The pine facilitated the conservation process, while the wood shavings absorbed bodily fluids and accelerated the desiccation of the bodies.

Photo: itthon.hu

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The exhibition Memento Mori

tuberculosis. Other research programmes were carried out in the hopes of finding further information to help the fight against AIDS. The crypt’s breathtaking finds are displayed in an exhibition named Memento Mori, which can be visited in the stone cellar of a nearby house (Március 15. Square, no. 19.).

The treasures of the diocese are guarded at the Palace of the Great Provost Photo: opencreative.hu

Their organs were preserved mostly intact, which enabled an in-depth biological analysis of the bodies, further increasing the scientific significance of the find. Researchers performed DNA analyses, comparing the mummies’ DNA to present day human DNA, trying to discover, for example, why our ancestors proved to be resistant to

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Photo: © pestmegye.hu

The triumphal arch erected in honour of Maria Theresa

Near one of the most picturesque squares in the country, Hungary’s only triumphal arch—which locals simply call “the stone gate”—was erected in honour of Maria Theresa. The Empress of Austria and Queen of Hungary was born 300 years ago, and she visited Vác in 1764. The monarch travelled by boat from Pressburg, where she participated in the Hungarian Diet. Her arrival was signalled by a cannon shot. Legend has it that when the Queen heard that the construction of the 20-metre-high, 12-metre-wide, 4-metre-thick triumphal arch had lasted only five months, she did not dare to ride under it. Instead,

she stepped out of her coach and walked round the beautifully carved stone gate on foot. The top of the arch is decorated with eagles holding garlands, and its façade bears reliefs depicting the members of the Habsburg dynasty.

The sombre building looming nearby belongs to the Vác Prison and Correctional Facility. Built

by Cardinal Christoph Migazzi and originally designed to serve as a college for noble youth, it was named after the Queen (following the example of the Theresianum in Vienna). Later it was converted into a military training facility. Then in 1855—after the failure of the 1848 Revolu-

Photo: © panoramio.com

First a college for noble youth, now a prison

In honour of Maria Theresa

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Photo: © Balázs Csizik / Mittecomm.com

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iation following the fall of the 1956 Revolution: he then became the most popular and well-loved president of Hungary after the regime change.

The Assumption Cathedral of Vác is one of the jewels of the Danube Bend. Its construction was started by Cardinal Charles Esterházy, but works were finished under his successor, Christoph Migazzi, who was also responsible for the idea of the triumphal arch. He withdrew the project from Anton Pilgram, the famous Austrian architect, and instead commissioned the similarly renowned French designer Isidore Canavale. The fresco in the cathedral’s dome is the work of An-

The Vác Cathedral

The Stone Saints’ Bridge

Photo: © itthon.hu

tion—it became a prison. In the following century and a half several Hungarian historical figures, renowned for various reasons, languished in the prison. One example is Szilveszter Matuska, who blew up a viaduct under the Vienna express in 1931, causing the death of 22 people. Bálint Hóman, the conservative, right-leaning and anti-Semitic Minister of Religion and Education of the Horthy era was another infamous inmate.

The list continues with General Secretary of the Hungarian Socialist Workers’ Party János Kádár, who made Hungary the “happiest barrack” of the Socialist camp. “Thanks to him,” Árpád Göncz suffered here as one of the victims of the retal-

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Photo: © DAVID KIS - dave.trick@gmail.com

Photo: © DAVID KIS - dave.trick@gmail.com

Artwork by caricaturist and animation artist Ferenc Sajdik

The Vác Art Collection preserves the legacy of painter Gyula Hincz, an artist renowned across Europe

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VÁC ton Maulbertsch, a painter well known across Central Europe.

The building of the former Seminary is located on the same square as the late baroque-style basilica, and today it houses the town’s only higher education facility, the Apor Vilmos Catholic College.

The baroque structure that locals call the “Stone Saints’ Bridge” is still functional today, making it a monument unparalleled in Hungary. Statues of saints carved by master stonemason József Bechert “guard” the bridge that arches over the Gombás Creek where it rushes toward the Danube. Visitors can see Peter and Paul, the two Apostles, on a shared pedestal; St. Camillus, patron saint of nurses; St. Barbara, who, among others, is the patron saint of stonemasons and bellfounders; St. Judas Thaddaeus, guardian of the desperate; as well as St. Venantius, who protects travellers from falling; and Saint John of Nepomuk, patron saint of bridges and rivers.

“Hungarian City of Culture”

Vác won the title “Hungarian City of Culture” a handful of years ago, and rightly so: ever since the renaissance era, noteworthy scientists and artists could always feel at home here.

The former Palace of the Great Provost houses the Vác Cathedral Treasury and Diocese Collection, and a professional guided tour presenting the treasures exhibited is available by pre-booking.

The Caricature Collection (the “Smile Album”), a permanent exhibition presenting the oeuvre of the caricaturist Ferenc Sajdik, can be found on the Main Square. Children grew to love Sajdik’s drawings from the animations he illustrated. The building of the former Hotel Pannonia houses the so-called Depository, where you can marvel at the artwork of master confectioner Béla Haraszti, namely the Cathedral and the stone gate sculpted out of sugar! And if you want to follow the visual treat with a culinary one too, you can take your pick from among Vác’s many pastry houses. Mihályi Patisserie, a French-style pastry house, featured at last year’s Bocuse d’Or. Chocolate-lovers should try the Traviata here, or if you prefer fruity desserts, the chef recommends a creation called Rose Garden. In the summer tourists can walk to the Danube bank holding a large cup of ice cream, listening to the music drifting from the Music Pavilion on weekends. If your visit is during the last days of July, you may even meet Maria Theresa herself on the riverbank. A costumed procession and a fair is held in honour of the Queen’s visit. This newfound event is known as “Váci Világi Vigalom,” a baroque festival that has now taken its place among modern-day festivals. www.vac.hu

Photo: © panoramio.com

If you are looking for contemporary art, the Modern Art Collection displays artwork from the most significant artists of the last decades—the paintings Szilveszter Matuska finished

in prison among them. The museum offers a representative selection from the work of Mihály Schéner, an artist prolific in a number of fine art and applied art types. The satirical world of Ernô Tóth comes to life here, and Vilmos T. Kovács’s colourful carved and painted altarpieces, reimagined with a modern-day vibe, are also exhibited.

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Photo: Š jannesuhonen.net

City Guide When it comes to the history of humanity, caves provide us with a bottomless treasury.

In prehistoric times caves offered shelter to humans and animals alike who were running from bad weather or enemy attacks, but they were used for ritualistic purposes as well. Cave drawings and paintings are the most famous tokens of prehistoric art, this form of expression being prominent from the last period of the late Ice Age (from around 27 thousand years ago) until the 10th millennium BC. The most outstanding painted and carved animal images and depicted deities were discovered in France and Spain. Caves are part of Hungary’s unique natural features: the country boasts over 3700 registered caves, most of which are karst and/or formed by thermal water.

Budapest is the only capital city in the world with caves lying under its streets.

Divers’ paradise: the Molnár János Cave located at the foot of Rózsadomb is unparalleled anywhere in the world

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Caves in the city Exploring Budapest’s caves Text: Rita Szentgyörgyi

Photo: © Tamás Szenti

Explorers have uncovered more than 15 sizeable tunnel systems within the heart of the Buda Hills. Parts of them are known or thought to be connected with each other, hence the hesitancy when it comes to numbers. Some are highly protected because of their archeological significance, while others are dangerous even for qualified spelunkers and divers—but there are several caves offering an unparalleled experience that can be visited by sneaker-wearing tourists too. Visitors can check opening times and order an Englishlanguage guided tour on the website of the Duna-Ipoly National Park (dunaipoly.hu/en).

Pálvölgyi Cave

With its 28.6 km length, this is the longest known cave in Hungary. A section of it was discovered by accident in 1902 during a construction project.

Since 1927 it has been one of the capital’s touristic attractions. It served as a shelter during the World War II bombings. The current tour route, a 500-metre-long section that can be visited with a guide, was finished in 2001.

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Compared to other Buda caves, the Pálvölgyi Cave is unusually rich in stalactite formations. It is characterised by high, canyon-like passageways, big differences in altitude, and sphere-like cavities carved out by thermal water. The tour lasts just under an hour, and participants can see shell imprints dating back several millions of years, glittering calcite crystals and unique rock formations.

Cit y Guide

Szemlôhegyi Cave

Famous Hungarian spelunkers

The half to one-million year old Szemlôhegyi Cave is often dubbed Budapest’s underground flower-garden. The tunnel system was discovered in 1930 during quarrying. After a long period of research and construction, the cave was opened to the public in 1986. Altogether 2200 metres are explored so far, but only part of this can be visited. Pisolites, considered a rarity in Europe and reminiscent of a bunch of grapes, cover the cave’s walls along with stone flowers and plaster crystals. Visitors can enjoy these while walking on the illuminated and paved pathways. The Szemlôhegyi Cave is recognised as one of the most valuable natural features of Budapest. With its special high humidity climate and dust-free air, it has a benefi-

Speleology is an extreme sport, a research activity, and—not least—a real passion. As a division of the Athletic and Football Club of the Technical University of Budapest (MAFC), the MAFC Speleological Club was formed at the end of the 1980s. Four speleologists from the club— Márton Kucsera, Zsolt Németh, Lajos Sass and József Zih—established a new Hungarian depth record in the summer of 2009. Without diving, they reached 2008 metres deep in the Krubera Cave located in the Caucasus. In 2016, as part of an international expedition, another group of Hungarian speleologists—expedition leader Gergely Ambrus, Péter Adamkó Jr., Attila Jager and Attila Tóth—explored the Krubera Cave 2197 metres deep. They were the first to publish photos, videos, and a book about the deepest-known cave on Earth.

Photo: © István Práczky

cial effect for those with respiratory diseases and asthma.

Photo: © szemlo-hegyi-barlang.hu

Hungary’s biggest underwater tunnel system is located under Szemlô Hill.

It is named after its first researcher, the pharmacist János Molnár. The cave is specially protected, and it is the only thermal water cave that is still active today. The water’s temperature is 20-23° Celsius and is used by the Lukács Thermal Bath. One needs a permit to visit and dive here, but once acquired, the diver base here provides for divers' every need: equipment to rent and experienced diver guides are all available. Also offered are cave diving courses for divers who are looking for further training. (mjcave.hu/en)

Photo: © aquanauta.hu

Molnár János Cave

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Mátyáshegyi Cave

Photo: © Lenke Szilágyi / Panoramio. com

The Mátyáshegyi Cave is a great choice if you are looking for adventure. Budapest’s most exciting cave tour can be visited exclusively with professional cave tour guides. The best-known sections are the 60-metre-long Upper Cave consisting of a vestibule and two passageways, and the 240-metre-long and 23-metre-deep Firefighter Cave. Narrow passages, vast caverns, a crystal-clear and glimmering cave lake and fossils characterise this cave; its rock clefts hide geyserite, barite and calcite crystals. Entrance is through an artificial passageway, but there is no furbished path within the cave. On several occasions the organised group tours will have visitors crawling on all fours or on their bellies. All necessary equipment—overalls, helmet and headlamp—is provided by the organisers.

Useful information

For visiting furbished caves no caving equipment is necessary, although you will need a sweater in the summer on account of the 20-25° C temperature difference. It is recommended you wear comfortable hiking boots or rubber boots—the latter are especially useful since they stick to the soil and you can get a better feel for where you are stepping. Battery or rechargeable flashlights are indispensable accessories for spelunking, since the use of open fire is forbidden in caves to prevent accidents and protect the environment. A special full-body under-suit (nicknamed “fake rabbit” in Hungarian) will prove useful in the clayey environment, over which you can wear water-repellent overalls.

Helmets are also important to protect their wearers from head injuries.

Photo: © dunaipoly.hu

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The ground rule is not to set off alone without a tour guide or leave the marked path, as unexpected dangers can occur any time. “Leave what you find” is an important point of caving etiquette. Do not pick up or break off anything—let visitors who come after you see them too! Another point is: “Take with you what you brought with you,” meaning you shouldn’t leave any trash in the cave. And a third point: “Do not disturb those who live here.” Caves provide home or shelter to several life forms, such as bats. Don’t disturb them and don’t hurt them—never forget that they are the ones at home here, and you are just a guest.

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Photo: © anp.hu

Photo: © felfedes.hu

Caves of the Buda Castle An uncommon experience awaits visitors who descend into the system of caves and cellars located under the Buda Castle District. A World Heritage Site, the labyrinth-like, crisscrossing network is unparalleled anywhere in the world.

Part of the 3300-metre-long, connected tunnel system lying between Dísz Square and Szentháromság Square was opened to the public in 1935.

Today its entrance is through the gate located at 9 Úri Street. On a Labyrinth tour visitors can learn about legendary historical figures and events.

The Hospital in the Rock / Nuclear Bunker Museum was opened in 2006 in the cellars lying right under the Castle. It offers a rare chance to walk around a fully equipped military hospital and bunker. In 1944 the natural shelter served as an emergency surgical clinic. Later, people injured in the 1956 Revolution were treated here.

The establishment—despite its outdated machinery, period furniture and the wax figures populating its rooms—could still be operational, and visitors can experience truly exciting adventures in its winding halls, while learning more about history and war conditions.

Caves of Aggtelek Karst Thanks to a joint proposal of Hungary and Slovakia, the Caves of Aggtelek Karst and Slovak Karst became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. The Baradla Cave lying under the villages of Aggtelek and Jósvafô is the most spectacular natural formation not only in the region, but the entire country. Associates of the Aggtelek National Park organise several tours (with different levels of difficulty and duration) to offer visitors a chance to enter the karst cave’s 25-kilometre-long tunnel system. Sections that are illuminated and fitted with concrete walkways can be visited wearing normal clothing, while more adventurous tourists can join the advanced tours led by spelunkers, where they will need to wear a headlamp and overalls.

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Budapest throws its hat in the ring A dream partner, boat renting or reading gloves Text: József Gyüre

Hungary’s startup scene is enjoying its third renaissance: emerging and creative enterprises— thanks to various forms of support—are now achieving even greater successes at international competitions.

Startups offer creative solutions in a number of areas in life: this summer Ultinous, which focuses on artificial intelligence and machine learning, revealed a project that is the first of its kind in the world in collaboration with Hungary’s largest dating site Randivonal.hu. By uploading a photo of their dream partner, an algorithm will select those individuals who most closely resemble the uploaded face. If the date comes together and love is found, then you can head straight to Lake Balaton. Finding the right boat is simple as well, as Boatly uses the sharing economy model to as-

printed materials readable for the visually impaired.

Two Hungarians made it to the final of the Women Startup Competition held in London, with one winning a special prize. (The competition is limited to enterprises where a majority of the team members are women). From the seven European preliminary rounds the Hungarian teams MagikMe and HeatVentors made it through to the final, with the latter receiving the opportunity to show its invention in three Chinese cities to investors such as Jack Ma and Alibaba, due to win-

Photos: © ecolounge.hu

The developers of the special prizewinner HeatVentors

sist in boat rentals. Everyone wins with Boatly, for those yearning to sail can easily find a boat, and owners can make some extra money when the boat would otherwise be sitting empty in the dock.

Hungarian startups have competed in an increasing number of international competitions of late.

At Microsoft’s Imagine Cup competition held for the 15th time this year in Redmond, Washington, Hungary was representation by GlovEye which aids the visually impaired in reading. The smart tool uses a camera and a braille pad to make 46

ning a special prize. HeatVentors is working on building an environmentally aware heat energy generator which will reduce carbon monoxide emissions and function at a low cost, while MagikMe would like to build playgrounds where disabled and healthy children can play together.

This will not be the first visit to Asia by Hungarian ventures. Thanks to the Hungarian National Trading House, four Hungarian startups (Liber8 Technology, EDM Designer, Pulmoment and Kayakfirst) also showed their products in May to international and Chinese investors at the Get in

Cit y Guide the Ring! competition in Chengdu, which is comparable to live entertainment. The competition, co-organised by Enterprise Hungary and Chinese incubator TusStar saw the high-tech jewellery maker Liber8 Technology finish second.

Enterprise Hungary and TusStar, which operates 60 incubators, provided office space, accommodation and business contacts to the Hungarian startups. The Hungarian enterprises now have an excellent opportunity to expand their investor and manufacturing contacts on the Chinese market. At Get in the Ring!’s global final in Singapore, Hungary was represented by Intellyo and Robotrainer to investors such as Golden Gate Ventures and Rocket Internet.

According to experts (and including the period before the 2008 financial crisis) the startup scene is enjoying its third renaissance in Hungary. Although roughly ten years ago the organisational

structure was still in its infancy, today more and more “companies with dynamic turnaround capability” are funnelled toward state support by initiatives meant to aid development. State support is necessary, since in Hungary the venture capital sector remains increasingly cautious. The opinion expressed earlier that there was a lack of capital in the startup sector is no longer the case. Quite the opposite: due to generous support by the European Union, there is plenty of money in the system, but the way the resources are used (due to the specifics of the tendering system) are not always efficient. What must be taken into account is that EU funds will eventually dry up, therefore sooner or later the entire startup support system must be transformed to a commercially-financed model.

This is the goal set out by the Hungarian National Trading House’s InnoTrade programme, in which various market players, such as creative minds, emerging enterprises, venture capital (companies and mentors) from incubators to private foundations and economic attachés accredited abroad work together.

The MagikMe team builds playgrounds to help the rehabilitation of disabled children

getinthering.hu

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The companies representing Hungary in China:

Liber8 Technology

This unique, stylish piece of jewellery is in fact a luxury bracelet equipped with modern technology. Its wearer can change the decorating pattern any time with the help of a mobile phone.

EDM Designer Unlike in previous cases, this solution enables you to create top-quality marketing e-mails, which appear properly and are easy to read on mobile devices too.

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Pulmoment

Patients with asthma and their doctors will both benefit from this new health app that speeds up the process of compulsory check-ups. Using the app patients can reply to routine questions with a few taps on their screens before their visit. Pulmoment has placed second on the Dusseldorf e-Health Day competition in June.

KayakFirst

The smart rowing machine makes it possible to hold kayak, canoe or dragon boat training sessions in the gym or even at home! The app follows your performance and saves your workout data on your smart phone. The company has already bagged its first international contract: they signed a cooperation agreement with the Canoe Federation of Serbia.

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A new career built on silver boots Shoes — especially for women — are much more than simple accessories.

Glimpsing a pair of legendary footwear may awaken some nostalgic vibes in many of us.

Just think of the blue Manolo Blahnik Carrie Bradshaw wore in Sex and the City: shoes that presumably to this day still feature in the dreams of countless brides.

Text: Ágnes Karcsay Photos: Műcsarnok / Kunsthalle

Everyday object as art piece Popular opinion—or at least the opinion of designers and shoe-lovers—is likely to agree on the fact that besides fulfilling their function, shoes express membership in a social group, while also giving us full insight into the personality of their owners. All the while they brim with a multitude of creative possibilities. The database of The Hague’s Virtual Shoe Museum—whose exhibition was featured in the Müpa Budapest until the end of October—lists shoes dreamt up by international shoe designer stars. Beyond employing the traditional choice of leather, footwear from this collection was made of old carpets, rabbit fur, jellyfish or stone, or even formed using 3D printing technology. This fashionable everyday object can become a spectacular, unique, and autonomous work of art or even limited edition footwear, confirms Liza Snook, curator and founder of the virtual museum in The Hague. According to her, shoe design in the past few years has sparked interest among industrial designers, architects and artists alike. Some of them approach the topic from a material research or technical angle, while others consider the shoe’s structure, or even its artistic expression, the most important trait.

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Photos: © teshoes.hu

Quality, uniqueness, affordability Quality materials, comfortable design and affordable uniqueness are the keywords adopted by the young Hungarian shoe designer Eszter Tóth (TE Shoes) every time she designs and manufactures a new collection. At the end of 2010 Eszter, an economics student, decided to interrupt her studies and travel to the United States to find inspiration overseas on how to benefit from her love of fashion. Even though she had never studied how to work with leather, when the then-beginner Hungarian designer Anna Amélie (Anna Oláh) came to her attention at the beginning of 2012, she took up an apprenticeship with her that lasted two years. During this time she learned all that could be learnt about leather, and it became clear to her that what she wanted was to design shoes—especially since she had always had a sense that something was “missing,” as she was never able to find the footwear she desired.

She launched her first collection in the summer of 2014, a range of slippers. A shoemaking professional assisted her and taught her how to draw a shoe pattern, how to use a last, or how to form the soles. By the next year she successfully involved the Martfû shoe factory in the manufacture of her slippers, and during the winter of 2016 she debuted with her first winter collection: leather boots, all black and silver. “A collection consists

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Cit y Guide of roughly one hundred pairs, and I try to include the fewest models possible, since the more choices there are, the harder it is for people to decide which they want to buy. It always helps to imagine myself in these situations”—says Eszter, adding that while the birth of an idea lasts a mere second, it takes 2-3 months until it reaches its final form. A model is subjected to—let’s say—a million fittings until Eszter considers it ready.

“I design and prepare a prototype with the help of my assistant. I put it on, then decide what needs to be changed. I design the ornaments too, then I order them. I also created my own logo, and a graphic designer friend helped me turn it into reality”—she remembers.

Eszter oversees production in Gyomaendrôd, and visits exhibitions to gather new information and expand her repertoire with new materials. When thinking about the future, the list of her main objectives includes a workshop in her home, selling her shoes abroad, and of course opening her own shop. Until then, you will find her every week in the Zia Showroom located in the City Centre. Her joint limited

collection with Anna Amélie will be launched in the summer of 2018, and for the first time Eszter will come out with a men’s collection too. At the time of publication her fall/ winter boot collection will already be available. The young designer has little time for rest though: she is already thinking about the new spring models for next year.

teshoes.hu instagram.com/te_shoes/ Zia Showroom: 1052 Budapest, Galamb utca 9.

La Perle Noire restaurant features a tasteful interior, a lovely terrace, and a great location on the historic Andrássy Avenue, where beauty and culture meets.

Its kitchen is a pioneer amongst the top Hungarian gourmet restaurant, which intoduces modern and innovative dishes that draw upon French and Hungarian traditions - a real culinary experience for all. La Perle Noire welcomes guests with lavender champagne, followed by an amuse bouche to die for, and fantastic homemade bread selection. Live music is played by pianist József Csikós.

La Perle Noire Restaurant&Lounge 1063 - Budapest, Andrássy Avenue 111. +36 1 - 462 2189 info@laperlenoire.hu

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Looking for personalities

The ibis Styles Budapest Airport Hotel is opening soon Text: Rita Szentgyörgyi • Photos: Ibis.com

The opening of the first airport hotel with direct terminal access—a joint project of Budapest Airport and WING Zrt.—is just a few days away, and it is going to be a true milestone for Hungarian tourism.

The venture has been long overdue, as currently Budapest is the only European capital that—up to now—has had no airport hotel with terminal access. The opening of the new hotel is an integral part of the 50 billion HUF development plan for Ferenc Liszt International Airport named BUD2020. In the past few years passenger traffic has been increasing at a record pace in Budapest; so far 2017 has seen some thirteen million passengers land and depart from here.

The five-storey building designed by László Szerdahelyi lies within walking distance—about fifty metres—from Ferenc Liszt Airport and is connect54

ed to the terminals by a covered walkway. The hotel is part of the Accor Hotels international hotel group, which operates several airport ibis Styles hotels worldwide. Investors considered it essential to contract a well-known and stable hotel chain that is experienced in the management of airport hotels.

Within the ibis group, the three-star, superior category ibis Styles has been in business since 2012 as a young and dynamic brand. ibis Styles hotels are characterised by their unique interior layout and themed design.

The ibis Styles Budapest Airport Hotel welcomes future guests in 145 rooms located on four storeys.

Cit y Guide The “Sweet Bed,” ibis’ self-developed bed, is an important feature of the hotel’s outfitting. Having a self-developed bed in the three-star category is unparalleled anywhere in the world. Comfortable and restful sleep is further guaranteed by the perfectly noise-cancelling double-glazed windows. In order to meet the habitual needs of business travellers, bathrooms are outfitted with shower cabins.

The interior design reflects several motifs borrowed from the world of airports: walls are decorated with paper planes and clouds, while the lobby is reminiscent of a runway. An airport display screen is placed over the front desk, informing guests of departure and arrival schedules. The hotel offers five auditoriums for bigger conferences or business meetings—these are all named after airplanes or their parts. The open terrace facing the airport is designed to serve as a meet-up area, with guests with no plans to fly also popping in for a drink or a date.

jective is that everybody should feel at home here.”

They would like to move beyond the impersonal feel that characterises the old-fashioned hotel industry, and instead treat travellers as though they are being welcomed in their own homes. The director confirms that online check-in and fast checkin are both available at the hotel, as well as restaurant or sightseeing recommendations and tending to guests’ various affairs.

Csaba Palotai has been working in the hotel industry for twenty-five years. He started his career as a

The hotel is taking bookings from mid-January, but Director Csaba Palotai tells us that quotes have already been requested for 2019. The primary target group of the new hotel is business travellers, conference visitors or passengers spending their layover, but the management is also counting on guests traveling to Budapest for business from

major rural towns who are keen on avoiding the crowded City Centre, as well as tourist groups or families. If plane schedules are disrupted by weather conditions, the hotel is equipped to service socalled layover groups with full board.

Team spirit, a playful approach, personalised service, and a homey atmosphere are the key-words in the vocabulary of Director Csaba Palotai and his currently forming team of 35-40 associates. “We have advertised for positions, but we are looking for personalities. It is very important that the people who work here enjoy their jobs, and this positive feeling should affect the guests too. Our main ob-

bellboy at the ibis Aero on Határ Street—the hotel located closest to the airport at the time. Later he worked at the front desk, then was promoted to front office manager, deputy director, then director. In 2015 he became Director of the Mercure Duna Hotel, which in 2016 was renovated as the first ibis Styles hotel in Budapest. This year he applied for and won the position of Director of the ibis Styles Budapest Airport, a job he considers the biggest challenge of his career thus far.

ibis.com/gb/hotel-B0I7-ibis-styles-budapest-airport-opening-january-2018/index.shtml

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A bite-sized piece of Hungarian countryside Urban Betyár Restaurant and Visitor Center Text: Szonja Somogyi • Photos: www.urbanbetyar.com

What would a committed tourist want to know about Hungary during a short holiday in Budapest? The country’s history, traditions, culture and cuisine would certainly feature on the list. This requires long walks, touring the city or even the countryside, visiting the famous sights… or simply stepping into Urban Betyár, the District V restaurant that happens to be a visitor centre too.

The venue offers Hungarian cuisine with a modern twist, and the ethnographic collection exhibited in its basement hall rivals the display of a modest folklore museum. Here visitors can have a glimpse into the daily life of Hungarian peasants in the 18th-19th centuries. But first let’s consider the food. The restaurant uses almost exclusively Hungarian ingredients, and the seasonal menu contains classics such as roast chicken “farmhouse-style,” Chicken Paprikash, or Goulash soup, as well as smoked trout, or Upper Hungary stuffed cabbage with deepfried pig’s ears. Hungarian dishes on the menu are complemented by an outstanding steak selection too.

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The trout is smoked on the spot: the interior space—evoking a natural atmosphere and featuring lots of wood and leather—includes an open kitchen with hundred-year-old copper pots and a cold smoker. Rows of meat and sausage hang here. The restaurant has a hot smoker too, located in private kitchen area.

The Urban Betyár's open kitchen certainly goes beyond the concept of the “usual” restaurant grill; here guests can watch Goulash or Paprikash being cooked right in front of their eyes in specially-designed cauldrons.

Restaurant manager Anett Molnár told Budapest Finest that

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theirs is a baby- and pet-friendly establishment, and its à la carte front section is able to seat 80-90 people at once. They also have multiple event halls for special occasions. The atmospheric conference or banquette hall has a seating capacity of 60-80 people, and the room is outfitted with all the technical equipment necessary for a successful meeting or negotiation.

This hall can be joined together with the “Glass Room” next door to form a large space able to accommodate 90-120 guests in total.

There is a VIP room as well, open for customers looking for the most exclusive surroundings: the hall is reminiscent of a 19th century lord’s study, with its modern opulence elegantly paired with the decadence of the past.

Naturally, guests dining in the front area don’t have to forsake eating in a splendid environment either. The space is dominated by a vast original wine press dating back to 1852, but the piece of rail track placed over the bar also adds much to the atmosphere. The object reminds us of one of the “main activities” of the 18th-19th century “betyárs,” or outlaws who were keen on robbing trains by prying up the rails to derail the train and looting it once it stopped. However, it would be erroneous to think robbers like betyárs were a solely Hungarian speciality. Word of mouth often made them into folk heroes, and stories of similar characters exist in several other countries. This is showcased on a large interactive map exhibited beside the restaurant’s “betyár corner”, a cozy nook ideal for drinking cocktails or wine. Guests visiting from any part of the world will certainly be able to find information about outlaws of their home country—moreover, customers themselves can even feature on the map for a day…

The restaurant’s ethnographic collection is free for guests, and it is recommended you visit downstairs even between

two courses: you will learn how Hungarian peasants lived and farmed in the 19th century and about the conditions under which they lived. The permanent exhibition is interactive, and several displayed sitting rooms outfitted with period furniture—so called clean rooms—tell us how homes looked at the time. Some two-thousand pieces of furniture, paintings, tools and decorations suggest the romance of the countryside. Foreign visitors can get a sense of Hungarian traditions and the country’s past.

The Hungarian gift shop beside the restaurant sells tickets to the museum for those who are not hungry. The price of the ticket includes the use of an automatic dispenser with which guests can taste unique Hungarian wines. And of course, they can purchase a little piece of Hungary to take home. urbanbetyar.com

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Casual elegance Budapest Bistro in the Parliament neighbourhood Text: Szonja Somogyi • Photos: www.budapest-bistro.hu

You have toured the whole Danube bank, marvelled at the Parliament building, worn yourself out while exploring the beautiful sights of Budapest, and now you are feeling hungry? Or do you need a place to have a business lunch with your client? Would you like to taste traditional Hungarian dishes, but want no part in the boring checkered-tablecloth atmosphere, and instead would prefer a modern environment? The Budapest Bistro awaits guests from morning to night with excellent dishes, mastering Hungarian cuisine infused with international flavours.

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Cit y Guide “We wanted a restaurant where guests felt like they could stay for hours—like in the coffeehouses of olden days. Besides managing a serious establishment, our primary objective was to create a light and casual atmosphere”—claims Csaba Villányi, the restaurant’s professional coordinator, while speaking with Budapest Finest.

The interior space is characterised by the fresh style of metro tiles, the massive feel of original iron beams and other elements made of iron and steel, countered by the lightness of glass and the warmth of concrete appearing on various surfaces (design

The restaurant welcomes guests in the morning too. Its breakfast selection is more of an international mix: English, French, American and Viennese breakfasts all feature on the menu, but patrons adhering to the “when in Rome” principle can taste classic Hungarian “bundás kenyér” (a type of French toast) or the local brunch complete with bacon, home-made mangalica sausage and duck liver paté. As a real speciality, pastries of various fillings are baked fresh on the spot.

Everything is made fresh right there and then. Budapest Bistro runs its own bakery that furnishes the venue with bread and

work by Ivanka Beton). The furniture evokes various style eras, and chairs are made of solid wood and leather, which seems like an unusual choice in a bistro environment.

Csaba Villányi emphasises that when it came to the interior design, making everyone feel comfortable and welcome was a crucial factor: “Tourists walking in from the street, people popping out from their workplaces to get the lunch special, couples entering for a romantic date, a lawyer preparing here in between two hearings, or an ambassador negotiating an important topic all included.” The French atmosphere is guaranteed by placing the small, two-person tables by the windows, and of course—true to the bistro style—customers can also eat at the counter.

So what is served here? Budapest Bistro is an international restaurant with a Hungarian streak. Every dish has some kind of a Hungarian twist, but it’s not necessarily “shoved down on our throats.” Tender spare ribs are served with blood pudding and “dödölle” (potato dumplings fried with onions in lard), and duck confit is accompanied by red cabbage purée. Naturally, a restaurant that advertises itself as “Hungarian style” can’t keep Goulash soup from its menu, but the fish soup made of three kinds of fish and served with carp fillet is also a big favourite in winter months. If you are not afraid of heavier Hungarian dishes, you may test your courage on a beef stew with cottage cheese noodles rolled in Kolozsvár bacon, or simply order stuffed cabbage—you will certainly not regret either of them.

pastries all day long. They make preserves using Hungarian fruits. Meats—also Hungarian, mostly from Balatonfenyves— are smoked here too.

“Just like fine dining restaurants, we make everything ourselves, but we don’t use tweezers to put flower petals on a dish—actually, we don’t use flower petals at all. We aim to keep a casual vibe, and ensure that the large and very diverse circle of our guests can count on us at all times”— the professional coordinator confirms.

The Budapest Bistro team “does not compete for stars, we don’t want to get into the top guides, but considering the large number of guests we have in one day, we aim for a much higher level: we represent a quality that falls into the medium/high category”—he specifies.

The medium/high category can be experienced even when ordering a simple lunch special, as the Budapest Bistro does not hold back on quality. However, as they serve “only” 60 special portions a day, and as the Bistro is becoming one of the most popular restaurants of the capital, it is recommended you reserve your table in time. The restaurant has the capacity to seat 100 people inside, and their terrace, open from spring to autumn, can hold just as many guests who want to have a taste of Hungarian cuisine.

budapest-bistro.hu

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Shopping Guide

evening headpiece Zsófia Vécsei vecseimillinery.com

backpack AnnA Amélie annaamelie.com/en

evening wear Daalarna

Daalarna flagship store Alkotmány utca 16. Budapest 1054 www.daalarna.com

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Cit y Guide women’s backpack

fall2017 collection

Ágnes Kovács

Dóra Abodi

agneskovacs.hu

abodi.it

men’s suit GALAMB

galambszabosag.hu

evening shoes Réka Vágó rekavago.com

brut sparkling wines Kreinbacher kreinbacher.hu

women’s hat Vécsei Zsófia vecseimillinery.com

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Photo: © jegy.hu

Within Frames

The Art of the Sixties in Hungary, 1958-1968

Open until: 18 February 2018 Hungarian National Gallery, Building A Entrance to the exhibition is through the gate of a real Soviet-style tenement building, the walls of which sport a graffito by György Kádár, setting the tone for the collection featuring 350 or so items never previously displayed in one place. Paintings, sculptures, prints and drawings, books, posters and works of applied art document a period bracketed by two major historic events: the defeat of the 1956 Revolution in Hungary and the Prague Spring of 1968. Despite the “frames” defined by banned themes—1956, the Soviet occupation, the dictatorial nature of the political regime—and suffering from the lost illusions of 1956, artists were still able to find lasting forms of contemporary artistic expression. The show brings together those significant names of the period that gained international recognition, including sculptor József Somogyi, and painters Ignác Kokas, Béla Kondor, Tibor Csernus, Dezső Korniss, László Gyémánt, István Mácsai and Viktor Vasarely. Also exhibited are a handful of foreign artists, such as Picasso, Léger, Guttuso and Buffet, who inspired Hungarian artists with regard to either their themes or styles. The exhibition is accompanied by a Hungarian and an English catalogue.

Amadinda Percussion Group & Gábor Presser New Year’s Eve Concert

…everyone has a role…

Guest performer: St. Ephraim Men’s Chorus 31 December 2017, 7pm and 10:45pm Liszt Academy Concert Centre

One of the main appeals of the traditional Amadinda & Gábor Presser concert—which bids farewell to the Old Year and welcomes the New—is the specific productions that have rarely or never been played before, or are only performed in select years. The 2017 concert’s guest performer is the St. Ephraim Men’s Chorus, assembling singers of outstanding talent and musical qualifications. The group is considered the Hungarian specialists of Byzantine vocalist culture, and their consonance with the Amadinda Percussion Group is bursting with possibilities: their joint repertoire features ecclesiastical works, classical music compositions, as well as ragtime songs or African and American gospels. As both formations are at home in the most diverse genres of music, their cooperation will doubtlessly render the seventeenth Amadinda & Presser New Year’s Eve concert a truly unique experience. The minutes leading up to midnight will once again be accompanied by the music of Johann Sebastian Bach, and the last moments of the Old Year will be filled with the resonating sounds of the Amadinda’s gongs.

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Photo: © mng.hu

Programme

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Ring Gala

Carnival Season Opera Gala with Roberto Alagna and Aleksandra Kurzak 10 February 2018, 7pm

Erkel Theatre

Photo: © operamusica.com

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Haydn: The Creation

New Year’s Concert Conductor: Ádám Fischer; accompanied by: Milan’s Teatro alla Scala Academy Orchestra and the Hungarian Radio Choir 1 January 2018, 7pm Müpa Budapest

Photo: © Nikolaj Lund

The Carnival events of the Hungarian State Opera are always centred on the theme of a renowned opera composer or a famous piece. Following Der Rosenkavalier, Faust, and Háry János, the 2018 gala will be dedicated to Wagner’s four-opera cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen (The Ring of the Nibelung), even though neither of the programme’s guest stars are par excellence Wagner singers. The musical couple, however, is the perfect choice for a Carnival-inspired celebration covering several styles and genres. Joining the list of illustrious past guests like Vesselina Kassarova, Angela Gheorghiu, Plácido Domingo, Kristian Benedikt and Ildebrando d’Arcangelo, this year the gala welcomes Robert Alagna, one of the world’s most celebrated tenors, and his wife, the Polish soprano Aleksandra Kurzak. Kurzak has risen to incredible fame in barely fifteen years, singing the most beautiful lyrical roles from London to Paris, from Vienna to New York. The gala this winter will remain focused on its philanthropic aim: the next morning the theatre will host 1800 disadvantaged children at the Breadcrumb Ball, and treat them to a performance of György Ránki’s fairy-tale opera King Pomádé’s New Clothes with the sponsorship of the Klauzál Lions Club.

Müpa joined the circle of New Year’s concert organisers a decade ago, creating a noble tradition of welcoming the New Year with music. Ádám Fisher opted for Joseph Haydn’s oratorio Die Schöpfung (“The Creation”) to best serve this aim.

The world-famous conductor always discovers something new to unearth in Wagner’s operas—but Wagner is not the end of it. Together with the soloists performing The Creation under his baton, he invariably adds new colours to this work as well, adding to the rich tradition of performance in the Hungarian capital. Soprano solos (archangel Gabriel and Eve) are performed by Regula Mühlemann. The Swiss artist represents a new generation of singers: she is conscious and self-critical. An artist of Sony Classical, her album featuring Mozart arias won the German music critics’ award in 2017.

The young Austrian tenor Paul Schweinester grew up singing in the centuries-old St. Thomas Church of Leipzig children’s choir. The Creation’s Archangel Uriel completed his degree at the University of Music and Performing Arts in Vienna.

Archangel Raphael and Adam are brought to life by Thomas E. Bauer, who as a child performed in the Regensburg Cathedral’s choir, then graduated from the University of Music and Theatre in Munich.

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Photo: © Dario Acosta

Photo: © Tamás Füle

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ONE-TIME

Separate ways and withdrawal at a time of consolidation Open until: 28 January 2018 Műcsarnok / Kunsthalle Budapest In highly politicised periods the role of art and the situation of artists are defined by vulnerability. This was equally true for the Rákosi, Kádár (and Ceaușescu) eras evoked by Műcsarnok’s five recently opened and closely interconnected exhibitions. Oeuvres once forced into a “half-shade” have been lifted into the light again, allowing for an examination of the situation of art in those days, their existential spaces, as well as their art and life strategies with special attention to individual forms of withdrawal and resistance.

Claiming that in terms of its political and ideological determination the art of the period was bi-polar is oversimplifying the matter. At a time referred to as the “period of consolidation”, many artists set upon their own paths that were seemingly neutral but in fact conveyed a moral stance and opened up new creative potentials.

Műcsarnok’s current exhibition, titled OneTime, seeks to put these diverging trends back on the map of recent Hungarian art.

More Viennese than Vienna

An evening of operetta with Annette Dasch, Piotr Beczała and Thomas Hampson 15 February 2018, 7pm Müpa Budapest Béla Bartók National Concert Hall If you happen to miss the Ring Gala, you still have a chance to witness a concert rivalling the gala festivities.

The evening combines light and catchy melodies written with operatic exigency, bringing three world stars to the stage—Annette Dasch, Piotr Beczała and Thomas Hampson—to delight the audience with classic tunes by the most popular composers of operetta. In the final third of the 19th century, a healthy relationship linked the convivial city of Vienna to the Austrian village, the music of the palaces to the folk melodies flowing into the great metropolis from the pubs of Grinzing.

Operetta or “little opera” summed up this mélange of styles that quickly gained popularity with an audience receptive to stories with a bittersweet feel. The first successes arrived in the form of Millöcker’s pieces.

Then came the appearance of the “Waltz King”, Johann Strauss Jr, who brought down the house with Der Zigeunerbaron (“The Gypsy Baron”) and Die Fledermaus (“The Bat”). Also considered outstanding composers of the “golden age” were Robert Stolz and Karl Zeller.

Operetta also attaches Hungarian names to this brilliant new era: those of Ferenc Lehár and Imre Kálmán.

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