Theme Magazine NYFW 2022 edition issue 13

THEME

FASHION, ART AND LIFESTYLE

13

MARCH 2022 VOLUME 2 ISSUE 3

CELEBRATE MOD CULTURE

NYFW 2022 EDITION

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THEME MAGAZINE

TABLE OF CONTENTS That walk with AFC 03

Taking a look at the talented at AFC

Secret under the bed 9

Exploring the look book of KAWAKEY

In Earnest 15

Checking out the when going on with Byron Earnest Lars

Trading post 22

KEVIN HALL F/W 2022

Deconstructed brand 28

The break down between form & function

THEME MAGAZINE

Prom 34

The pressures of getting ready for Prom night

Madre 41

Being a model and mother

Mod feeling 49

Exploring mod culture in today's fashion world

Editor’s page 59

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THATAFCWALK Add aThe purpose of the Asia Fashion Collection is to discover and nurture young designers who are from Asia. Organized by Vantan and PARCO. Co. Ltd., AFC FW22 debuted February 15th 2022 at NYFW showing both menswear and womenswear.

Six brands revealed their collections during the inperson runway show. All of the brands and designers are from Asian countries. Because of the COVID travel restrictions, the show was produced remotely connecting each brand, Asian country and New York, and presented physically in New York without the brands' appearances. little bit of body text 1) YUUNA ICHIKAWA by Yuuna Ichikawa - Japan @yuunaichikawa 2) COCOTONO by Kotono Fukazawa - Japan @cocotononocoto 3) GLENDA GARCIA by Gelanda Garcia - Indonesia @glendagarcia.co 4) WooLeeX by Yu Nung (Jerry) Hsieh, Ming Jo (Cynthia) Hsieh - Taiwan @wooleexstudio 5) SUNG JU by Sung Ju Lee - Seoul @sung_ju_official 6) DOKKA vivid by Nodoka Sugauchi, Akiho Ka Japan @dokkavivid About Asia Fashion Collection (AFC) Asia Fashion Collection is an incubation project produced and sponsored by VANTAN and PARCO CO., LTD, in partnership with other Asian affiliates.

AFC provides a platform for emerging talent in fashion industry, throughout Asia, to compete for a chance to debut their collections during the NYFW. Six brands, from Asian countries such as Japan, Korea, Taiwan, and Indonesia, will debut their collections as a part of AFC’s annual runway presentation at NYFW. AFC is passionate about discovering and nurturing new talent, while widening the reach in the fashion industry by fostering the growth of the continent’s most promising up-and-coming designers.

PR/Beauty Acquisition & Creative: New York Tokyo Show Production: Kuroko Inc. Casting: Eric Cano Hair: Kien Hoang for Oribe Makeup: Monique Rinard of behalf of AOFM Pro Photography: Fernando Colon

AFC's judges include: Kaname Murakami (Editor in Chief, WWD Japan), Romi Mizukami (BEAMS Couture Designer, BEAMS Co.,Ltd.), Keishu Abe (STUDIOUS Mens Buyer, TOKYO BASE CO., LTD.), Fumiya Yoshinouchi (Editorial Board/Director, fashionsnap.com) and Takanobu Kono (FRACTA Representative Director, Official Evangelist of Shopify Japan)

KAWAKEY

Secrets Under the Bed

We have fantasies and secrets we are ashamed of, hidden and tucked away under our beds. Yet, sometimes we think of them and they awake up from the darkness and come alive, they are part of us and who we are. Key reflects his teenage year experience: "As gay and on the spectrum being a teenager was sometimes rather lonely. I imagined characters to be friends with as I felt no one else could understand me. I also realised some of them in the form of love and erotic themed manga drawings. It was pure imagination - a form of escapism and self-expression at that time. Once my drawings were found and they raised conversation and concern within my family. I was ashamed and didn’t know who to talk to. I buried all those fantasies, under my bed and hoped they would never see daylight again. Even after all these years, I can still remember those characters and stories I created, they must have had great meaning to me, there is no way I can THE RUNWAY SECTION

forget them. They are still reminding me who I was, who I am.” Overt time, tucked away things get faded, moth-eaten and dusty. In this collection KAWAkEY uses digital prints on various kinds of Tencel satin and BCI cotton twills to imitate these effects – layered prints and textures dissolve into each other.

Mohair/ Alpaca blended yarns are knitted with unique gradients effect to reinterpret fabric fades in an exaggerated form, then heavily brushed to imitate a worn out romantic knits. KAWAkEY Rebranded KA WA KEY has been rebranded as KAWAkEY, ne single word with second “k” in lower case letter, making it look like a typo.

“We see the beauty of imperfection.

Sometimes when experimenting textile treatments and pattern cutting we just cannot avoid errors or failures, which can be very inspiring and uniquely beautiful.

"Reimagining traditional textile crafts with sustainable materials and practices,

"Key Chow, originally from Hong Kong, graduated from the Royal College of Art in London with a Master's degree in Fashion (Knitwear)"

THEME | 45

KAWAkEY is a Londonbased label designing deconstructed knitwear and prints that bring new emotions and ideas into a genderless wardrobe with vivid colourways and unexpected proportions.

He was nominated as one of the finalists at the H&M design award for his graduate collection, which was selected to be exhibited at Palais de Tokyo in Paris.

He believes that knitting and crafting are ways for sincere expression of emotional vulnerability.

Finnish Jarno Leppanen has a cross-artistic background and holds a Master's degree in Arts. With a crossdisciplinary take, he devises their unique design language into collaborative poetical works. He is currently an MSc student majoring in Sustainable Development.

TS

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N R E A E

BYRON EARNEST LARS THE RUNWAY SECTION

THE ROAD TO PROCESS Since launching his first collection back in 1991, designer Byron Lars has been blurring the lines of what was to create his own personal version of what will be. From his very first season, he used men’s shirting materials to create body conscious dresses the likes of which were never seen prior. He pushed the boundaries even more by constructing blouses with built in lace bras as part of the construction of the garment rather than requiring a separate purchase. Was it a blouse? A dress? An undergarment?

Hmmmmmmm…

NYFW FALL 2022: IN EARNEST BY BYRON EARNEST LARS This spirit of reinvention has been alive and well ever since in every collection Lars & his design partner Sheila Gray have created. As he approached his collection for Fall/Winter 2022, he was drawn back to his beginnings more directly than at any time in his past. So, he went with it.

“As I approached the season, it somehow felt completely modern to exercise the principles of my first Fall collection from the 90’s,” says Byron Lars.

When I began, I was obsessed with reimagining American classics and was all but entirely disinterested with seasonality in the traditional sense which, even then, was starting to feel outmoded.”

Lars used striped Oxford cloth as a familiar starting point, which, though traditionally found in Spring/Summer womenswear collections, is perfectly suited to fulfill the needs of the season with strategic layering. Lars has never been one to shy away from a layering statement,

in fact, it’s become almost ubiquitous to his aesthetic. In his words, “layering is queen!”

Luxurious layers that can either be piled on or peeled off to suit mood and an ever increasingly fickle climate. Layering is the key to this collection’s versatility and customization-readiness.

Removable slip linings and turnback skirt fronts allow dresses to dual as layering pieces over textural tops, skirts and novelty pant shapes. Even a substantial guipure lace coat is constructed with a cozy velvet lining that is completely removable for warmer months of wear. Details like this are found throughout the collection and truly define this collection as nearly seasonless. If one researches the genesis of the sportswear business model, such versatility and chameleon-like seasonality is at the heart of the uniquely American artform.

Fabrications include guipure lace, cotton shirting, embroidered net, sequins, vegan leather, ponte flannel, embroidered herringbone, and heavily textured stretch jacquards.

This collection launch is not the only aspect of the In Earnest business being celebrated of late.

Last week, it was announced that Byron Lars will be the recipient of the Fashion Group International’s prestigious “President’s Award for Excellence” for his more than 30 years at the forefront of American Fashion.

TRADING POST

KEVIN HALL F/W 2022

THE RUNWAY SECTION

KEVIN HALL Kevan Hall's Fall/Winter 2022 collection: Trading Post! envisions a burgeoning time when travelers would meet to exchange wares, folklore, and handcrafted textiles from Mali, to Morocco, to the legendary Tarshish. His use of regional fabrics, accented with blackened gold and copper metallics, reimagines a glorious era of seafaring trade and opulent beauty. The womenswear collection includes textured prints inspired by Northern Africa that are transformed into timeless signature pieces. By incorporating rich jacquards, matelassé, and brocades, Hall uses materials to take us on a journey through history. Trading Post! locates us at a new and unique intersection of time and place - one that is currently uniting us all from great distances.

Set among a warehouse of traditional and contemporary Moroccan and Middle Eastern furniture and antiques, the show started with elegant day dresses in abstract floral and animal prints, then led into more sharply tailored pieces in weighted materials such as brocade, and followed by Hall’s signature eveningwear ensembles. The latter materialized this season as gowns done in bold metallic florals with sensuous heavy drapery creating cascades of movement and fluidity. The final looks of the collection took on the feel of the Islamic Golden Age through the use of black and gold sequins on gowns and suiting, as well as an Arabesque inspired metallic matelassé used for the outerwear.

As his second collection back on the runway after a 20-year hiatus from showing, Hall brings us all his signature looks of elegance, modernity, and the much-needed return back to formality.

Deconstructed

brand

BREAKING DOWN THE FUNCTION TO EXPRESS THE PURE BEAUTY OF THE FORM PHOTOS BY CHRIS BAILEY MODEL TIAN-YA

Ash gray with warm blue gray floral pattern cotton blazer, cotton black halter top with black and gold neck as well dark wine spandex velvet bell bottom pants made by BAILEY.IV

Gold vinyl jacket with gold vinyl in laced pencil skirt made by BAILEY.IV

Poster printed tent dress made by BAILEY.IV

Gold and purple spandex long dress made

by BAILEY.IV

F A S H I O N

B Y

N U M B E R S

Prom MODEL CHARLEEN FATIMA

PHOTOGRAPHER & DESIGNER BAILEY.IV

Red vinyl top with black hand written letters and brown, green and white pencil skirt bottom made

by BAILEY.IV

White fur vest, gray and blue spandex halter top and gold mesh mini skirt made by BAILEY.IV

Navy blue and white polkadot bellbottoms spandex pants made by BAILEY.IV

Black vinyl and red rose encrusted baby doll dress made by BAILEY.IV

Life's transition

MADRE The beauty of being a mother is never lost in fashion. It is simply enhanced through the glow of motherhood

Maternity bell bottom 1970 zigzag pants made by BAILEY.IV

Orange, black, white and maroon 1970s printed sleeveless jumpsuit made by BAILEY.IV

Black feathers and white satin long dress made by BAILEY.IV

MOD g n i l e e f PHOTOS BY CHRIS BAILEY MODEL EVITA WARDROBE BY BAILEY.IV

CELEBRATING MOD CULTURE AND WHAT IT HAD BROUGHT TO THE MODERN WORLD OF FASHION.

yellow fur coat and purple and yellow printed mod culture pants printed made

by BAILEY.IV

Black and copper baby doll dress made by BAILEY.IV

Black and neutral chiffon dress by BAILEY.IV

Red, black and white raincoat made by BAILEY.IV

THEME MAGAZINE

EDITORS

Finally coming into a normal plain of existence.

Jobs are coming back, Covid seems to be going away in fashion shows seem to be coming off screens and going directly back to runways. Feels good to have a little bit of normality in the world that is constantly full of chaos.

I pray for the world and peace in Ukraine.

With that in mind, we are somewhat getting back to the business of full fashion ahead. In this issue we take a look at some fashion runway events that have happened during fashion week in the month of February 2022. We also celebrate motherhood and modeling. Finally, we ended off with a little touch of mod culture.

Please enjoy

One thing I definitely wanna express is my heart for peace and what’s going on in Ukraine at this moment. No person should have to suffer through the wages of war that these people have.One thing I definitely wanna express is my heart for peace and what’s going on in Ukraine at this moment. No person should have

MARCH 2022 VOLUME 2 ISSUE 3

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