CRAFTOLOGY
CRAFTOLOGY
GRADUATION PROJECT
SUBMITTED IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE GRADUATION REQUIREMENT OF DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE DESIGN STUDENT: SNEHA SINGH FACULTY GUIDE: SAVITA S. RANA WORKING ORGANIZATION : CARAVAN CRAFT RETAIL PVT. LTD.
2011- 2015 NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY NEW DELHI, 110016
Graduation Project Textile Design
National Institute Of Fashion Technology Department Of Textile Design, New Delhi, 2011-2015
Student :
Sneha Singh Bachelor of Design Textile Design
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by means of electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without prior written permission of the copyright holder.
Company Name:
Caravan Craft Retail Pvt. Ltd.
Industry Mentor:
Sanhita Kandpal Head Designer
Internal Mentor: Sneha Singh Set in Helvetica
Savita S. Rana Faculty Department of Textile Design National Institute of Fashion Technology
evaluation
completion certificate
The evaluation jury recommends Ms. Sneha Singh for award of graduation from the National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi after evaluating her project and fulfilling the requirements set by the institute and the jury members. Name & Designation
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acknowledgment
contents
Every endeavor ever accomplished remains unfinished till the work of each individual is acknowledged. The completion of this Graduation Project was possible only with the guidance and support of a lot of people, who have helped me in each and every stage.
S.No
First and foremost, I would like to express my gratitude to Ms. Sanhita Kandpal, Head Designer, Caravan Craft and their entire team for allowing me to be a part of this exquisite union and working on what I can call my ‘dream project’. And also, for providing me with all the facilities required for the culmination of this project. Moreover, for the kind of exposure I was given to the craft industry and the retail sector in general. I would also like to thank my faculty mentor Ms. Savita S. Rana, for her guidance throughout the course of this Graduation Project. To all the Karigars and Masters, Caravan Craft, for not only helping me with my collections, but also for sharing with me their vast knowledge and being extremely helpful in every way possible way. Last but not the least, to my family, friends and batch mates, who helped me in this journey with encouragement, financial support, advice and motivation, without which this would never have been the same.
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Synopsis.....................................................................................................................................
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The Company.............................................................................................................................
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Research...................................................................................................................................
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Target Segment..........................................................................................................................
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Design Process..........................................................................................................................
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Process Flow..............................................................................................................................
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Collection 1 : Landscape of time...............................................................................................
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Trends SS 15-16...........................................................................................................................
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Mood Board ..............................................................................................................................
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Color Board.................................................................................................................................
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Motif Development......................................................................................................................
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Designs......................................................................................................................................
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Collection 2 : Floral Reminiscence..............................................................................................
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Trends SS 15-16.........................................................................................................................
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Mood Board................................................................................................................................
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Color Board................................................................................................................................
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Motif Development......................................................................................................................
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Designs.......................................................................................................................................
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Conclusion..................................................................................................................................
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SYNOPSIS Caravan Craft
The main objective of this report is to document and highlight my tenure at Caravan Craft as a part of this graduation project. The project was divided into two parts: 1. Brand research on Anthropologie. 2. Design collections based on research The extensive study on Anthropologie which happens to be the benchmark brand for Caravan Craft ,not only helped me to gather Caravan’s design ideology but also be in tune with it while designing my collections.
From trend research to concept generation, I worked closely with other designers, artisans and tailors which helped in fine tuning my technical as well as design skills. I worked with multiple crafts like crochet, block printing, Aari embroidery, Ikat and tie & dye. I also learned the numerous possibilities and limitations that various crafts have and how to make the best of them. With the expertise of Ms. Sanhita Kandpal and Ms. Padmini Rao, I was able to merge different crafts together to come up with two unique collections for Spring Summer 2015-16.
The short research project included understanding of the brand philosophy, price points, size options, USP of the brand, fabrics proportions, categorization of merchandise and the overall look that it offers. Visiting different stores in and around New York was another crucial part of this project. Brief notes, visual references and relevant samples were collected and presented upon joining the company. Caravan works on four major stories for home and apparel namely, Classic, Floral, Gypsy, and Ocassion. I worked on the two stories, Core and Floral and came up with a design collection for each.
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THE COMPANY Caravan Craft
2.5 Opportunities
2.6 Solution
Crafts in India has a long and rich tradition going back at least five millennia and with abundant evidence of continuity. It is estimated that over 160 million people in India make their livelihood through craft products. The Crafts sector is the second largest employer in India after agriculture. The estimated market size of crafts in India alone is about USD 8.3 billion (Rs. 50,000 crore) out of which over USD 2.7 billion (Rs. 16,000 crore) is exported. These numbers represent hundreds of individual crafts, many whose origins can be traced back several millennia, and are a treasure house of inspired traditions and masterful skill.
Caravan Craft Retail Pvt. Ltd. builds connects the artistic traditions of the country to customers who need transmutation encompasses deep understanding and anticipation of consumer needs, design capability, knowledge of and sensitivity to craft traditions and artisans, as well as training.
However, this millennia-long crafts tradition and the millions who make a livelihood in it, face an insecure future. The reason for this insecurity: craft traditions developed in a natural way to fulfill the needs of people but with industrialization, craft gradually became unable to cater to contemporary needs in a competitive way. Many crafts have declined, some to the point of imminent extinction. With craft products losing their relevance among customer groups, the products have not evolved with changing times and consequently, there is a grave threat of losing national heritage and with it, tremendous value for both the artisan community and the world.
2.1 Mission
2.4 Vision
To create a sustainable Eco-system through development of globally relevant & customer- focused merchandise for contemporary retail by training & up-skilling artisan communities.
To actively participate in the revival & promotion of traditional craft and help provide meaningful livelihood to artisans and, through this process
2.2 Approach To build a sustainable training & skill development programme for artisans it is imperative to have a market context. We begin with defining the customer and thereby the retail environment and merchandise gets sharply defined as well. The clarity of direction makes the programme more sustainable and viable.
• • • • • •
Build a sustainable Eco-system Research customer needs Innovate Create relevant merchandise Improve processes & efficiencies Enhance livelihood of artisans
On the bright side, there is a growing global consciousness of ‘soul’ products. Many customers are willing to actively prefer products that embrace tradition and culture while retaining the functionality of the product in the contemporary context.
As the field of craft is diverse in terms of skill-traditions and geography and, as consumer needs are dynamic, Caravan has a strong focus on building a brand and an organization that will deliver its results across multiple classes of merchandise offering: Apparel | Jewellery | Home Accessories | Gifts | Toys. Caravan’s plan encompasses the stages of identifying artisan clusters with market potential, assessment of their skill-gaps, designing product configurations that bridge skill-sets and consumer needs, development of customized training programs, executing the training program, and making the cluster ready to take production orders for the market. The object is to provide all necessary design and training inputs to produce exclusive merchandise working usually within the framework of cooperatives, to do all this with substantial, sustainable and growing scale, and with increasing and measurable benefit to the artisan. Product categories are matched to current consumer demands, and will evolve with them.
Caravan, the emphasis is on creating globallyrelevant products fusing traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design. The primary endeavor is to evoke and provide relevance and high perceived value to customers and build sustainable value for the artisan.
The Plan envisages setting up of 20 Co-operatives which shall train about 350,000 artisans over a ten year period.
2.3 Steps Involved • • • • • •
Identify products that commensurate with brand Identity business opportunity dentify artisan clusters to produce merchandise Engage artisan groups to create co-operatives Identify critical skill gaps for each co-operative Develop training modules with relevant partners
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2.7 Impact Caravan is committed to ensuring that the economic rewards to artisans wherever needed will match or exceed the statutory wage framework established by government and, moreover, will show annual growth. The company envisages training 350,000 artisans across India and engaged in diverse crafts from leather goods to metalworking to weaving and embroidery over a period of ten years. Caravan Retail is a unique integrated retail & training model primarily targeting and promoting the Indian heritage art and craft. The promoters plan to bridge the gap between the enormous market potential (India and abroad) and the unique Indian rural craft available across the country. The model is a highly vertical in nature as it encompasses planning and sourcing right from the concept stage to the front end retails stores. The company essentially attempts to set up flagship retail stores under the Caravan brand in the metro cities targeting the Socio Economic Classification (SEC) A1 & A2 segments. This is a niche market which is currently highly unorganized, fragmented and localized catered to by either, the dated semi government organizations such as Central Cottage Industries & Exposition, Khadi Gram Udyog and few widely scattered and small retailers such as Good Earth, Mother Earth, Anokhi & FabIndia.
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Further, the products offered by the current retailers are un-contemporary, poorly finished and/or incomplete in terms of the range. Surprisingly, no large format retailer is seriously focusing in this market which is expected to be of over 25,000 crore. In the first 4 years the Company plans to open 26 flagship stores at prime locations in the 8 to 10 Indian metro cities under the brand, Caravan. Typical flagship retail store would be located at prime location in shopping mall or high street and would be of approximately 5,000 square feet in size. The stores would be aesthetically designed with high degree of standardization and the overall ambiance and service levels would compliment the product offering products for everyday, contemporary living. On a 10 year horizon, Caravan plans to have 151 stores (26 flagship & 125 franchise stores) generating a turnover of Rs. 1,300 crores.
Figure 2.7.1 - Home Accessories
Figure 2.7.2 - Jewelery
Figure 2.7.3 - Apparel
Figure 2.7.3- Home
Figure 2.7.5 - Corporate Accessories
Figure 2.7.6 - Toys National Institute Of Fashion Technology
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Figure 2.7.7 - Caravan’s first store at Phoenix City Mall, Bangalore
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CARAVAN CRAFTS FIRST STORE PHOENIX MALL, BANGALORE National Institute Of Fashion Technology
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Anthropologie’s merchants and design team conceptualize some key pieces based on ideas that are produced under the names Elevenses, Louie, Odille and Sleeping on Snow, with signature details such as bows, ties, ribbon trims, unusual buttons or flower “corsages.”
RESEARCH Anthropologie
Their assortment is unmatched as the buying team travels throughout India, Europe and the U.K. searching antique stores and flea markets to seek out one-of-a-kind pieces. They distribute these buying objects within their assortment, mixing them with the other pieces designed specifically for Anthropologie. The buying team also shops in New York and Los Angeles markets to find accessories and other pieces that will complete the themes. That might include sexy, fitted T-shirts by Michael Stars, San Francisco’s Rebecca Beeson or Velvet; exclusive items such as Lucy Barnes’ Zoe line and Rozae Nichols’ Aquarius; and intimate apparel from Cosabella and Only Hearts. Designers such as Tracey Reese (Plenty) and Nanette Lepore, who specialize in charming, feminine separates with retro touches, are also mainstays. This creates a range of products that is unusual and specific to each store location.
Anthropologie is a retailer owned by Urban Outfitters, Inc. It was founded in 1992 by a small group of innovators with a common goal:”to inspire imagination”. Founded in Wayne, Pennsylvania in the autumn of 1992, Anthropologie remains a destination for women wanting a curated mix of clothing, accessories, gifts and home décor that reflects their personal style and fuels their lives’ passions, from fashion to art to entertaining. Anthropologie has more than 185 stores throughout the United States, Canada and United Kingdom, and on anthropologie.com. Anthropologie looks for customers who yearn for an emotional attachment from their buying experience. It gives a source of inspiration and delight , an escape from reality. It’s a unique blend of an antique store, Parisian Boutique, Flea market and Grandma’s Kitchen. Their distinctive combination of senses, specifically hearing and smell, capture their shoppers as if were being exposed to an environment where memories are made.
Along with this she has an interest in gardening, cooking and wine also keeps herself relatively fit. She reads magazines but is not a fashion victim. She likes saving her clothes and wearing them differently from year to year. Anthropologie is more than just a retailer -- it’s a specialty retailer for which concepts and aesthetics, rather than units or volume, are key. Using narrative arcs, characters and plots, it expertly taps into our psyches and subconscious desires, our sense of wanderlust and nostalgia. Although these elements are interwoven throughout the store, they start with the customer. Anthropologie develops concepts based on variations of three themes its core customer responds to: • • •
The display of the store is changed several times during the 12 week cycle to keep the stores looking fresh. Inventory turns 6 times per year and new products appear 4 days per week. The environment of the store includes extremely eclectic product mix reflecting a range of product categories, each one edited in a unique way for the season. The price range varies from $4 for soap bars and antiques worth thousands.
Each Anthropologie has a visual manager and display person who work with the store manager to create a compelling environment. The apparel concepts inspire “display elements” that are crafted at each store. We don’t spend specific direction on placement by item; it’s more general direction about type of mood, color, silhouette, trend we create direction that supports those things. Another important concept that adds to the success of their retail store is its location. They usually try and stay away from malls, favoring a spot on the street to get the “countryside feel”. They capitalize largely on the existing architectural elements. All of the stores have a similarity to them, but none are exactly the same. The average store size is between 6,000 and 6,800, which the company prefers because smaller stores offer a greater sense of intimacy. An important differentiating factor about Anthropologie in comparison to their competitors is that they do not advertise. They prefer to abide by the old fashioned concept of word-of-mouth as well as natural curiosity to draw customers into the store. In the website and the catalog home, apparel and accessories are so seamlessly integrated that one half expects to be transported to the beach houses, farm cottages, boardwalks or European living quarters pictured on their pages. It’s potent stuff, and even customers who understand the marketing are drawn in by it. Anthropologie offers clothing with an edge without being overstated. It’s the personification of romance and sophistication. They don’t sell products, they sell a unique experience.
Apparel has a better price range. The colors and variety of fabrics offered is wide. Anthropologie designs their products with extreme attention to detail and craftsmanship. One of Anthropologie’s greatest achievements is their ability to make high end luxury casuals. Even their simplest items have a twist or unique flair about their appearance and fit.
Feminine Artistic (bohemian) Linear (preppy, classic silhouettes).
Each one is a very different from the other.
Anthropologie targets women from the ages 28 to 48, usually committed and has children, wants to work in artistic fields and desires a unique style. She is well read and well traveled. She is very aware and has a natural curiosity about the world.
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Figures 3.1.1 Above and on the Right - Anthropologie at Rockefeller Center, New York.
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Figure 3.1.2 - Anthropologie Window at Rockefeller Center, New York.
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TARGET SEGMENT Caravan Craft
4.1 Market To create a sustainable Eco-system through development of globally relevant & customer- focused merchandise for contemporary retail by training & up-skilling artisan communities.
She is a customers who yearns for an emotional attachment from their buying experience. She gains a source of inspiration and delight , an escape through the things that she purchases.
4.2 Demographic Details Primary audience – women Age bracket : 23 – 35 years Urban Chic Socio economic Classification : SEC A1, A1+
4.3 Psycho-Graphic Details Usually committed and has children, wants to work in artistic fields and desires a unique style. She is well read and well traveled. She is very aware and has a natural curiosity about the world. Along with this she has an interest in gardening, cooking and wine also keeps herself relatively fit. She reads magazines but is not a fashion victim. She likes saving her clothes and wearing them differently from year to year.
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Figure 4.1.1 Caravan’s target customer is a perfect balance of modern and traditional.
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THE DESIGN PROCESS Caravan Craft
PROCESS FLOW Caravan Craft
Study of Benchmark brand + Market and Consumer Research
5.2 Caravan at work Caravan, headed by Mr. Kunal R Sachdev, believes in the details and sophistication of craft and strives to offer the same to their clients. His sincere involvement in the design process makes the end products very true to Caravan’s brand philosophy. The design department is headed by Ms. Sanhita Kandpal who has received her education in Textile Design at NIFT, New Delhi. Her strong belief that every collection needs a perfect alignment to trend forecast and needs to follow the design process makes the products completely unique and increases potential for global recognition. Caravan has a very cluster oriented approach. Right from sampling to production craft clusters are involved. Along with providing employment to these clusters, Caravan trains these artisans to be at par with the current demands. The skills of these artisans are explored and utilized to achieve products that can be clearly differentiated from the mainstream.
Trend/Forecast Research
Story Development( Mood Board, Look Board,Color Board)
Final designs ready for Sampling
Presentation to Head Designer & Managing Directors for Approvals.
Silhouette or Form Development for the stories
Sample review (Changes if asked)
Findings and look are Discussed
Final Design Specification Sheets, issued for Production
Sampling includes: Motif development Fabric sourcing and development Fabric dyeing Color trials Exploration of techniques Making swatches The finalized samples are then made into techpacks that are sent to various clusters, locally as well as other places within the country. Products issued for Production
Caravan has a sampling unit that helps in immediate translation of finished surfaces to prototypes. Once the design is approved and costing is calculated, the final samples are initiated.
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COLLECTION 1 Core Story
Landscape of Time “In traces of the forgotten land, I let my feet touch the bare cold sand, Where age old stories lay to the side, Where wisdom finds a place to hide . Recall to us the stories of the old, Bring back the time of what we were told.�
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TRENDS SS 15/16 Core Story
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Past
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Timeless
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Extinct
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Basics
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Foundation
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Earthly
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Curated
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MOOD BOARD Core Story
COLOR PALETTE Core Story
Landscape of Time
Final Color Palette
This collection is grounded in the essential with refined neutrals. Pure and modest, it reminds us to go back to the foundation and being at one with earth. Natural textures bring the untouched and untainted look. The crafts used to bring these concepts to realization are Ikat, block prints, and crochet. Natural Textures
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Fossilized
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Stones/Rocks
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11.2 Shells
MOTIF DEVELOPMENT Core Story
Shell fossils contain important information about the very beginning of life on the planet. Various sizes and types of shells are explored and used together.
11.1 Fossils Fossils are among the most valuable sources of information about the Earth’s history. They tell us about the organisms that lived on Earth from the time of the oldest fossils, about 3.8 billion years ago, to the present. Various shell forms, corals under the sea and textures of rocks and mountains are explored and combined to achieve the desired look. Among the many kinds of fossils, coral fossils or undersea fossils are very prominent. The forms were sketched first and later transported to Adobe Illustrator for further alterations.
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11.3 Coral Fossils
11.4 Rocky Textures
Sea has been the source of all the life in the world . These corals are preserved in various forms and give a very interesting motif direction.
Rocks are one of the elementary constituents of Earth and it surely reminds us of a time that was before us. These rocky structures provide a perfect motif directions to go with the fossilized elements.
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DESIGNS Core Story
12.1 Design I Aari embroidery
Hand done crochet shell
Inspiration: Fossilized sea shells embedded in rocks represented through crochet and embroidery
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12.2 Design II
Hand embroiderred coral
Hand embroidered coral
Inspiration: Undersea coral fossils represented through hand embroidery
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12.3 Design III
Block printed shells
Inspiration: Bed of fossils represented through non directional block printing
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12.4 Design IV
Discharge block printed fossils
Inspiration: Bed of fossils represented through discharge block printing
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12.5 Design V
Discharge block print
Hand done crochet shell
Inspiration: Bed of fossils represented through discharge block printing and small crochet shells on top
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12.6 Design VI
Hand painted with pigment
Inspiration: Rocky textures represented through pigment printing, done as a replacement for Ikat.
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12.7 Design VII
Aari embroidery
Inspiration: Undersea coral fossil represented through hand embroidery
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12.8 Design VIII
Hand done crochet shell
Inspiration: Another fossil bed represented through hand crocheted shells in white and off white
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12.9 Designs in Production
Hand woven Ikat
Inspiration: Rocky textures represented through Ikat designs
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12.1 The Assortment
Block printed shells
Crochet shells on discharge print
Hand embroidered coral Hand embroidered fossils
Discharge block print
Crochet shell with embroidered background
Hand made crochet shells
Pigment painting technique
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COLLECTION 2 Floral Story
Floral Reminiscence “There are some things worth remembering And others left for time To come and weather and to change In the winds of your mind�
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TRENDS SS 15/16 Floral Story
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Dreamy
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Blurred
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Impressions
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Smudged
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Forgotten
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Stained
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MOOD BOARD Floral Story
COLOR PALETTE Floral Story
Floral Reminiscence
Final Color Palette
Hazy greens mix with fading purples creating an emotional memory-filled effect. Broken and blurred pansies, wisterias and delphinium capture the fluctuating nature of the mind and a need to remember the beautiful . This collection brings tie & dye, discharge, and pigment printing together to translate a dreamy, ethereal feel. Impressions
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Hazy
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Blurred
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Broken
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Blending
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Fade
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17.2 Pansy
MOTIF DEVELOPMENT Floral story
Apart from being the flower of this season, pansies have textured petals that was achieved through hand painting technique.
17.1 Forgotten flowers The collection draws inspiration from memory of flowers. Flowers from the purple family are chosen for their mysterious nature. Pansies, Witerias and Deliphiniums are depicted in broken ways for the feel of memory and how it fades. Textures are the primary focus of this collection and are achieved through various crafts, namely, crochet, block printing, tie & dye and ombre dyes. The forms were sketched first and later transported to Adobe Illustrator for further alterations.
Clusters of pansies was another motif direction. The cluster would comprise of some color filled flowers as well as some flowers in just outline to give an incomplete look. This was achieved through hand embroidery.
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17.3 Wisterias and Deliphiums
17.4 Hazy textures
Pigment Sprinkling
Wisteria and Deliphium are almost like vertical opposites, a motif was created that looked like Wisteria but when held upside down it looked like Deliphiium. The motif was divided into two parts, a top and a base. The base could be used multiple times one over the other to create length variations. These were later converted into blocks for pigment and discharge printing.
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Ombre Dyeing
Crush tie and dye
Impressions of meadows and colors blending into one another was the inspiration behind this. Ombre dyeing and crush dyeing were used to achieve these textures. Pigment sprinkling was another technique that was used to create wild meadow like effect.
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DESIGNS Floral Story
18.1 Design I
Pigment painted and appliquĂŠd
Inspiration: Textured petals of pansy represented in broken form through pigment painting and appliquĂŠ technique
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18.2 Design II
Hand crocheted border
Inspiration: Wisteria flowers depicted through hand crafted crochet panel
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18.3 Design III
Aari embroidery
Inspiration: Cluster of Pansies are depicted through hand embroidery
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18.4 Design IV
Discharge block print on Ombre dyed base
Inspiration: Fading wisterias are depicted through discharge print on ombre dyed base
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18.5 Design V
Pigment painted and appliquĂŠd
Inspiration: Broken pansy depicted through pigment painting and appliquĂŠ
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18.6 Design VI
Block printed
Inspiration: Deliphiniums and wisterias depicted through block prints
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18.7 Design VII
Crush tie and dye
Inspiration: Hazy Memories depicted through a dreamy purple and blue texture achieved through crushed tying and dyeing
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18.8 Design VIII
Pigment Sprinkling
Inspiration: Wild Meadow depicted through sprinkling of pigments
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18.9 Design IX
Crochet border with space dyed yarn
Inspiration: Wissterias depicted through hand donecrochet in purple and blue
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18.10 The Assortment
Pigment sprinkling technique
Hand painted pansy
Crush tie and dyed Discharge on ombre dye
Block printed wisteria
Crocheted wisteria border
Hand done crochet edging
Hand painted pansy Hand embroidered pansy
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conclusion
During my eight week internship period at Caravan, I learned about the technical aspects of multiple craft, its limitations and possibilities. My constant conversations with the masters helped me in thinking far ahead of time and planning designs in a way that is profitable in terms of production and valuable in terms of design. From concept generation of the themes to the final product, I learned to work creatively while religiously following a brief. I have not only learned design but I have learned the way to be in this profession. The ultimate take away from my experience is the strong planning and managerial skills I have acquired to achieve a specific goal in a given amount of time. I would like to thank Ms. Sanhita Kandpal for giving me this unique opportunity to work with her and for believing in me. I would also want to thank Ms. Padmini Rao and Ms. Neila Sreenivas for helping me throughout the internship with the realization of the planned products. Lastly, I would like to thank the whole Caravan team and Mr. Kunal Sachdev for inspiring me to work hard and be passionate towards what we do. It has truly been a pleasure working in this organization.
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