Hail the Pale! We look at Australia’s most consumed beer style
ISSUE 38 SPRING 2016 PRICE $9.95 (NZ $11.95)
Gypsy breweries to know
OUR BIGGEST IPA tasting ever!
Guess what’s number 1! BEERS & CIDERS
PLUS! ASIAN BEER | INSIDE WESTMALLE MONASTERY | 11 HOMEBREW RECIPES TO TRY
inside... Spring 2016
FEATURES 14 Style Notes – Pale Ale Visit any brewery in Australia and you can almost guarantee they’ll have a pale ale at the core of their line-up. However, while the style is a stock standard, it’s also incredibly diverse. Luke Robertson reports
22 Asian Beer From clean, crisp lagers to red rice ales and espresso stouts, we look at the full spectrum of Asian beers in Australia
26 Five Gypsy Brewers To Know We take a look at five travelling gypsies, changing the traditional view of what it takes to get into the craft beer industry
30 Australia’s 2016 Best Beer Venues & Brewpubs We have done the hard yards of drinking our way across the country in search of Australia’s finest beer venues and brewpubs. So settle in, grab a beer and enjoy our Top 65 Beer Venues and Top 50 Brewpubs for 2016
60 Travel – Belgium The Beer Pilgrim journeys to Belgium and takes us inside the secretive world of Westmalle
64 Entertaining – Food Want to create nutritional dishes, which reduce food wastage AND are delicious? Well we have three recipes that do just that
HOMEBREWER 42 Welcome 43 Letters 44 Q&A Homebrew champion John Palmer takes us through the new IPA substyles and provides a recipe for one of the buzz beers at the moment, red IPA
46 Recipes We have recipes for pale ales of all descriptions and even a lager
“We wanted a pretty balanced pale ale with a lot of hop character. When we sat down we decided we wanted something a bit darker, a bit maltier and to use hops that support that” – Jared Proudfoot, Pirate Life Brewing
50 Barellan Beer The story of how a beer brought together a community
52 Shipwreck Beer Could a beer discovered in a shipwreck near Tasmania be the world’s oldest beer?
58 Homebrew Club We check out the West Coast Brewers and get an award-winning Russian imperial stout recipe to try!
REGULARS 3 Editor’s Letter 6 The Brew What’s happening and things to do
9 News The latest in Aus/NZ beer industry
12 New Venues 13 Bits & Bobs 68 Tasting Notes Our biggest IPA tasting ever!
78 Directory 82 A Pint With… Entrepreneur, investor and ‘Shark’ on Shark Tank Australia, Steve Baxter
Check out Australia’s Top 65 Beer Venues & Top 50 Brewpubs! 22 26 Spring 2016 5
1. Batch American Pale Ale This is the first beer Batch Brewing Co. ever made. A combination of Vienna and caramel Pilsner malt round off a malt bill that leans towards the drier end of the style, softening its body a touch, before big hits of Cascade hops from the whirlpool and fermenter give a complex burst of fresh cut grass, citrus stone fruit and a touch of pine. This is the beer that shows the quality and nuance you can expect from Batch Brewing Co.
FOOD MATCH Cheeseburger with chips ABV: 5.2% RRP: $12.99 per bottle (640ml) Batchbrewingco.com.au
2. Modus Pale Ale One of Modus Operandi’s many award-winning beers. Dry hopped with Yakima Valley’s favourite heavy hitting hop, Simcoe, this beer is a hophead’s dream. Rich golden in colour, as soon as Modus Pale Ale is poured expect a big burst of pine and citrus hop aromas, which follow onto the palate followed by a crisp finish.
FOOD MATCH Chilli chicken pad see ew ABV: 5.2% RRP: $9.99 per can (500ml) Mobrewing.com.au
3. Feral Hop Hog Sitting somewhere between a pale ale and an India pale ale is Feral’s Hop Hog, which recently crossed out the ‘India’ on its label just leaving pale ale. While it may not fit into a specific style perfectly, it does seem to fit into craft beer lovers’ hands (and bellies) extremely well. A multi-award winning beer, Hop Hog explodes with American citrus, fruity, piney hops, which are held together by a solid malt backbone.
FOOD MATCH Spicy Asian chicken wings ABV: 5.8% RRP: $17.90 per four-pack (330ml) Feralbrewing.com.au
4. Willie The Boatman Todd’s Trailer Ale Brewed in Sydney’s Inner West, Willie The Boatman Todd’s Trailer Ale is a well-balanced American pale ale. Three additions of Citra hops create some spicy, tropical fruit aromas on the nose, which continue to the palate where they are joined by a big malt body.
FOOD MATCH Wood-fired pepperoni pizza ABV: 5.5% RRP: $11.99 per bottle (640ml) Willietheboatman.com
PALE ALE PROMOTION
5. Little Creatures Pale Ale A hop driven pale ale bursting with flavour and aroma. Fullbodied yet refreshing, the bitter finish will leave your tastebuds craving more. Since day one, Little Creatures has brewed its Pale using whole hop cones, sourced straight from the US directly to its breweries (something pretty unique) and use a hop back to extract those beautiful, hoppy aromas and delicate bitterness. Preservative and additive free, the Pale Ale is live yeast conditioned in the bottle (after filling) for unmatched freshness and character and takes about six weeks from brewing to be released.
6. 4 Pines Pale Ale This pale ale of a rich golden, copper colour throws up vibrant hoppy aromas. Citra, Amarillo, Cascade and Simcoe hops leave a fresh fruity glow on the palate. The hops are refined and balanced well with the firm bitterness that delivers rich taste and a clean linger. The full body and good malty background make this a delightful flavoursome and refreshing ale.
FOOD MATCH Chicken schnitzel and chips ABV: 5.1% RRP: $18.90 per six-pack (330ml) 4pinesbeer.com.au
7. Pirate Life Pale Ale This beer has a fabulous chestnut colour and a nice big head on it as well. Pirate Life Pale Ale shows a great balance of hops and creamy malt, fresh bitterness with a crisp dry finish. The beer has a great mouthfeel and tastes incredibly fresh. A well-crafted beer by the talented team at Pirate Life.
FOOD MATCH Tempura prawns ABV: 5.4% RRP: $5.50 per can (355ml) Piratelife.com.au
8. Mornington Pale Ale Mornington Pale is an Americanstyle pale ale, pouring a cloudy golden yellow with a tightlypacked white head. The Pale has both citrus and passion fruit aromas, showcasing American hops added late in the brewing process. A light smooth palate, aided by the generous addition of wheat malts, moderate bitterness and carbonation make for a flavoursome and sessional ale.
FOOD MATCH Fish ‘n’ chips ABV: 4.7% RRP: $22 per six-pack (330ml) Mpbrew.com.au
Mussels or chargrilled chicken ABV: 5.2% RRP: $22.99 per six-pack (330ml) Littlecreatures.com.au
AUSTRALIA’S MOST CONSUMED STYLE, ACCORDING TO A RECENT SURVEY BY CRAFT BEER RETAILER BEER CARTEL, PALE ALES ARE POPULAR ALL YEAR ROUND. WE TAKE A LOOK AT EIGHT TO TRY THIS SEASON!
Spring 2016 21
BEER VENUES & BREWPUBS
THE ESTEEMED PANEL James Atkinson – editor, Australian Brews News Vanessa Cavasinni – editor, Australian Hotelier Tim Charody – The Beer Pilgrim Stefanie Collins – editor, bars&clubs Joel Connolly – festival director, Sydney Craft Beer Week
Top 65 AUSTRALIA’S 2016
Beer Venues &
Brewpubs WE HAVE DONE THE HARD YARDS OF DRINKING OUR WAY ACROSS THE COUNTRY IN SEARCH OF AUSTRALIA’S FINEST BEER VENUES AND BREWPUBS. SO SETTLE IN, GRAB A BEER AND ENJOY OUR TOP 65 BEER VENUES AND TOP 50 BREWPUBS FOR 2016
n 2014, we launched our Top 50 Beer
and food offerings onsite, we felt they deserved to
Venues list to help you find the freshest,
be recognised too, and so we are thrilled to launch
craftiest beer whether travelling
Australia’s Top 50 Brewpubs for 2016.
interstate or just looking for somewhere
To determine which beer venues and brewpubs
new to try in your hometown. We
made the lists, we asked 22 panellists for their
also wanted to recognise those who
personal favourites then tallied them up to find the
were championing craft beer, their support and
Top 50 Beer Venues (metro), Top 15 Beer Venues
commitment has helped this incredible industry
(regional) and Top 50 Brewpubs for 2016. The scoring
grow exponentially over the past few years.
was weighted so those at the top of the panellists’
In line with the growth of the industry, we
lists scored higher than those at the bottom. There
have made some changes to the list this year.
was no strict criteria. It could have been a venue’s
We have split it into metro (Top 50) and regional
range and choice of beers that impressed our judges,
(Top 15), to help get an even better spread of great
it might have been the quality of service and staff
beer venues to visit across the country. We used
knowledge or it could have been an emphasis on
Australia Post’s definition of regional and metro
beer and food matching; more than likely it was a
areas to define this split. Also, with so many
combination of different factors.
breweries now having their own impressive bar
So enjoy the lists and start ticking them off!
Cameron Flett – manager, Warners at the Bay Brad Flowers – owner, Hops and More Glen Humphries – beer writer, Beer Is Your Friend Ian Kingham – beer writer and international beer judge Matt Kirkegaard – founder, Australian Brews News, BeerMatt John Kruger – drinks writer, judge and Royal Adelaide Beer and Cider Awards committee member Ross Lewis – editor, The West Australian beer website, The Sip. Emily Lloyd-Tait – bars & pubs editor, Time Out Sydney Chris McNamara – executive officer, Craft Beer Industry Association Peter Mitcham – beer writer and commentator, Radio Brews News Pia Poynton – beer writer, girl + beer Luke Robertson – beer writer, Ale of a Time Jeremy Sambrooks – beer writer and judge, Beer & Brewer, Menu Magazine Annette Shailer – editor, Beer & Brewer Chris Thomas – editor, Homebrewer Kirrily Waldhorn – beer presenter, educator, consultant, writer and judge, Beer Diva Andrew Young – editor, TheShout.com.au
REGIONAL BEER VENUES
TOP 15 REGIONAL BEER VENUES FOR THE FIRST TIME, WE HIGHLIGHT THE TOP 15 REGIONAL BEER VENUES IN AUSTRALIA! #1 The Grain Store Image by Emily Jane Photography
The Grain Store
64-66 SCOTT STREET, NEWCASTLE EAST NSW 2300 Grainstorenewcastle.com.au
A well-deserved winner of our inaugural Top 15 Regional Beer Venues list! The Grain Store owners Corey and Kristy Crooks were beating the craft beer drum years before moustached hipsters discovered the benefits of growlers. Their commitment to providing interesting craft beer perfectly matched to delicious food is second to none, while their passion for craft is infectious. “This and Warners at the Bay are places I always go to when I’m in Newcastle. Love the focus on Australian beer and the relaxed feel of the pub as a whole” – Glen Humphries, Beer Is Your Friend
5 THE SPOTTED COW 296 RUTHVEN STREET, TOOWOOMBA QLD 4350 Spottedcow.com.au 6 WELDBOROUGH HOTEL 29722 TASMAN HIGHWAY, WELDBOROUGH TAS 7264 Weldborough.com.au 7 THE DISPENSARY BAR & DINER 9 CHANCERY LANE, BENDIGO VIC 3550 Dispensarybendigo.com 8 THE LITTLE PRINCE GLOBE LANE, WOLLONGONG NSW 2500 Thelittleprince.com.au
Black Bunny Kitchen
180 ALEXANDRA PARADE, ALEXANDRA HEADLAND QLD 4572 Blackbunnykitchen.com.au
9 THE MALLOW HOTEL 20 SKIPTON STREET, BALLARAT VIC 3350 Themallow.com.au
This quirky establishment is a proud supporter of independently-owned breweries, distilleries, wineries and food producers. With live bands on the weekend, great food, rotating craft beer taps and even host to a ‘Best Beard’ competition, Black Bunny Kitchen is the perfect destination for local and visiting craft beer aficionados.
10 STEIN’S TAPHOUSE AND WINE BAR 29-31 BAROSSA VALLEY WAY, NURIOOTPA SA 5355 Steinstaphouse.com.au
“In an area where tourists are easily attracted to the familiar safety of the larger, less ‘soulful’ mainstream holiday venues, it is noteworthy that such a small and intimate family-run venue like this has carved out such a loyal following. Sticking true to the basic tenets of hospitality with a broad and ever-changing beer offering to match, it’s no wonder this place keeps a spot on this list” – Pete Mitcham, Radio Brews News
#2 Black Bunny Kitchen
Saint John Craft Beer Bar
133 SAINT JOHN STREET, LAUNCESTON TAS 7250 Saintjohncraftbeer.com.au
Featuring up to 14 taps of Australian and international craft beer, and more than 170 bottled beers, ciders, wines and premium spirits, Saint John Craft Beer Bar punches well above its weight. BYO food for lunch with plenty of options nearby, and delicious dishes served up at the food van out the back from 5.30pm. Definitely one to put on the Tassie to-do list!
#3 Saint John Craft Beer Bar
4 THE POURHOUSE (WA) 26 DUNN BAY ROAD, DUNSBOROUGH WA 6281 Pourhouse.com.au
“Saint John Craft Beer Bar caters to all lovers of beer, from university students to rambling beer connoisseurs. Food is provided from the food van and the 14 taps have a wide variety of beers from around Australia and the globe. Simple in concept and design, friendly and inviting with excellent staff for comfort, and a range of beer that won’t leave you wanting for anything” – Ian Kingham, beer writer and judge
11 THE WELDER’S DOG 120 MARSH STREET, ARMIDALE NSW 2350 Theweldersdog.com.au 12 THE HOP FACTORY 102 DARBY STREET, COOKS HILL NSW 2300 Thehopfactory.com.au 13 SETTLERS TAVERN 114 BUSSELL HIGHWAY, MARGARET RIVER WA 6285 Settlerstavern.com 14 THE BLIND MONK 76 BEAUMONT STREET, HAMILTON NSW 2303 Theblindmonk.com.au 15 THE POURHOUSE (NSW) 327 HIGH STREET MAITLAND, NSW 2320 Thepourhouse.com.au
Spring 2016 31
TOP 50 BREWPUBS
Mountain Goat Beer
80 NORTH STREET, RICHMOND VIC 3121 Goatbeer.com.au
Anyone’s who’s been to Good Beer Week Melbourne will most likely know the Mountain Goat brewery very well from its famous, and awesome, Abbey Collaby nights. Open Wednesday and Friday nights from 5pm, check out the limited release special brews on tap while smashing one of their delicious pizzas.
#20 Cheeky Monkey Brewery & Cidery
24 WILLIE THE BOATMAN 202/75 MARY STREET, ST PETERS NSW 2044 Willietheboatman.com 23 COLONIAL BREWING CO. OSMINGTON ROAD, MARGARET RIVER WA 6285 Colonialbrewingco.com.au 22 LITTLE CREATURES, FREMANTLE 40 MEWS ROAD, FREMANTLE WA 6160 Littlecreatures.com.au
21 MOON DOG CRAFT BREWERY 17 DUKE STREET, ABBOTSFORD VIC 3067 Moondogbrewing.com.au 20 CHEEKY MONKEY BREWERY & CIDERY 4259 CAVES ROAD, MARGARET RIVER WA 6285 Cheekymonkeybrewery.com.au 19 YOUNG HENRYS 76 WILFORD STREET, NEWTOWN NSW 2042 Younghenrys.com
Temple Brewing Co.
122 WESTON STREET, BRUNSWICK EAST VIC 3057 Templebrewing.com.au
“If you wrote a list of all the things you’d want in a great brewpub, the list would look a lot like the one they used to design Temple. Upstairs function space, comfy all-weather beer garden out front and a sleek and sexy downstairs bar with a view of the stainless steel kit from which a range of solid award-winning beers are produce before your eyes” – Pete Mitcham, Radio Brews News
#25 Mountain Goat Beer
17 BRIDGE ROAD BREWERS 50 FORD STREET BEECHWORTH, VIC 3747 Bridgeroadbrewers.com.au
14 THE GRIFTER BREWING CO. 1/391 ENMORE ROAD, MARRICKVILLE NSW 2204 Thegrifter.com.au
16 NORTHBRIDGE BREWING CO. 44 LAKE STREET, NORTHBRIDGE WA 6003 Northbridgebrewingco.com.au
13 BAD SHEPHERD BREWING CO. 386 RESERVE ROAD, CHELTENHAM VIC 3192 Badshepherd.com.au
15 THE MONK BREWERY + KITCHEN 33 SOUTH TERRACE, FREMANTLE WA 6160 Themonk.com.au
12 MODUS OPERANDI BREWING CO. 14 HARKEITH STREET, MONA VALE NSW 2103 Mobrewing.com.au 11 BATCH BREWING CO. 44 SYDENHAM ROAD, MARRICKVILLE NSW 2204 Batchbrewingco.com.au
#18 Temple Brewing Co.
#12 Modus Operandi Brewing Co.
TOP 50 BREWPUBS
Green Beacon Brewing Co.
26 HELEN STREET, NEWSTEAD QLD 4006 Greenbeacon.com.au
#10 Green Beacon Brewing Co.
Eagle Bay Brewing Co.
Two Birds Brewing
236 EAGLE BAY ROAD, NATURALISTE WA 6281 Eaglebaybrewing.com.au
136 HALL STREET, SPOTSWOOD VIC 3015 Twobirdsbrewing.com.au
Two Birds Brewing’s tasting room and brewery, The Nest, in Melbourne’s inner-western suburb of Spotswood, is where Australia’s first female-owned and operated brewing company craft their award-winning creations. Take a behind the scenes look at the brewing process, taste the range of rotating Two Birds beers brewed on site, enjoy some delicious pub grub or simply take home brewery fresh beer in growlers and squealers.
Family-owned and run, Eagle Bay Brewing Co. is a restaurant, microbrewery and vineyard located on a 66-year-old working farm in Eagle Bay, WA. When it comes to beer, wine and food – it doesn’t get much fresher than that! “Perched on top of a pretty green hill overlooking the lush farmlands and fragrant eucalypt forests that meander along the rugged West Oz coastline, it’s hard to beat this location. Throw in a paddle of fresh Eagle Bay beers, a meal from its top class kitchen and that deep blue sky you tend to get around here and you have well and truly ‘plonked’ yourself in beer heaven. They will probably have to remove you with a crow bar!” – Tim Charody, The Beer Pilgrim
This awesome warehouse brewery has an impressive range of beers to work through, alongside some of Queensland’s finest seafood or a cheese and meat board, or both! Green Beacon also hosts some of Brisbane’s best food trucks so keep an eye on who’s pulling up if you’re planning a visit. Awesome, friendly staff add that extra something special to this relaxed venue.
“Sitting amongst the tanks at Two Birds, you can taste why they continue to win awards. Their core range always tastes best at the brewery. The food is ideal for soaking up beer, and their one-offs and brewery-only releases are more than enough to keep me visiting” – Luke Robertson, Ale of a Time #8 Two Birds Brewing
#6 Bentspoke Brewing Co.
218 KING STREET, NEWCASTLE NSW 2300 Foghornbrewhouse.com.au
Housed in a historic art deco warehouse, Foghorn Brewhouse is the ideal place to enjoy fresh beers brewed in front of you, while enjoying dishes bursting with locally sourced produce. Add to that live music and you have the perfect spot for a Sunday arvo session. “I love places where you can sit and watch the brewers making the beer you’re drinking. Foghorn is one of the best places to do this because there is so much stainless to see, and so many beers to drink while you sit and watch” – Glen Humphries, Beer Is Your Friend
BentSpoke Brewing Co.
38 MORT STREET, BRADDON ACT 2612 Bentspokebrewing.com.au
BentSpoke is the blood, sweat and tears of one of Australia’s premier beer judges and brewers, Richard Watkins. The sensational array of beers are matched by great pub fair and knowledgeable staff.
#7 FogHorn Brewhouse
“With a beer menu as long as a politician’s pre-election promise list, it’s little wonder that BentSpoke is packing in the locals and visitors alike most nights of the week. Eighteen taps all pouring something fresh, familiar or different – a bit ‘bent’ if you will – has given the rejuvenated suburb a centrepiece on which to hang its hopes and dreams” – Peter Mitcham, Radio Brews News
Spring 2016 39
More IPAs Than You Can Shake a Stick At HOMEBREW CHAMPION JOHN PALMER HAS BEEN FASCINATED BY THE EVOLUTION OF THE IPA CATEGORY IN OFFICIAL JUDGING OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS. HE TAKES US THROUGH THE NEW SUB-STYLES AND PROVIDES A RECIPE FOR ONE OF THE BUZZ BEERS AT THE MOMENT – RED IPA Note: The following is an excerpt from
they provide contrast and balance to
the forthcoming (4th) edition of How To
the hops with grainy malt flavours,
Brew, due to be published in 2017.
sweetness and esters.
he world of IPAs has erupted and now every hop forward
Belgian IPA is an adaptation of
beer of any colour
American IPA using Belgian yeast
is being marketed
strains, or to look at it from the other
as some type of
side of the fence, an adaptation of
IPA. It is worth noting that the Beer
Belgian golden strong or tripel with
Judge Certification Program (BJCP) in
American hopping rates. The high
the recent 2015 style guidelines has
hop bitterness is offset by a higher
moved away from calling these beers
alcohol content (which makes it
India pale ales, and is only referring
taste sweeter) and the hop aroma
to them as IPA, because these modern
is enhanced with fruity esters and
derivatives were never made or
spicy phenols from the Belgian yeast
consumed in India. There are now IPA
strains. Many different hop varieties
sub-styles for Belgian, white, red, rye,
may be used, including American,
brown and black. Let’s review the main
European and Pacific varieties,
characteristics of these beers (dramatic
but it is important that the hops
pause)…hops! All of these beers have a
share a common element with the
dominating hop balance in both aroma
fermentation character. The spicy and/
and flavour. The malt and fermentation
or fruity elements of more recent hop
character will always take a back seat
varieties tend to work better than the
to the hop character in an IPA, but they
more sulfurous and piney character
play a very important role in defining
(i.e. dank garlic and onion) in older
the sub-style, and more importantly,
hop varieties that can clash with the
determining whether the beer itself is
phenolic yeast character. Belgian IPAs
any good or not.
tend to be golden to amber in colour,
Every beer is a symphony of flavours and aromas, and if a blonde ale is the nearest thing to a string quartet
44 Home Brewer
Let’s take a look at each of the new sub-styles:
with an OG of 1.058-1.080, FG of 1.008-1.016 and 50-100 IBUs. White IPA is a cross between the
then an IPA is a big brass marching
Belgian wit style and American IPA.
band. And, the best marching bands
The Belgian witbier yeast character
include woodwinds and drums to
and the use of spices such as coriander
create dynamism and complexity. The
and chamomile enhance the hop
Monty Python theme song – otherwise
character. The goal with white IPA is to
known as The Liberty Bell March by John
strike a cooperative balance between
P. Sousa – comes to mind. The malt
the traditional witbier character and
and fermentation characters need
the higher bitterness of an IPA. The
to play this supporting role in IPA;
result is a more assertive witbier –
drier, fruitier, spicier, but with a robust bitterness
hoppy brown ales, which can be nutty also, arose
and drier finish. Again, it is important to avoid the
from the US homebrew scene when hop-crazy
danker hop varieties, which would clash with the
homebrewers decided that most brown ales were
light body and spiciness of the witbier style. The
just too wimpy. But, American brown ales should
sub-style is characterised by a pale gold or hazy
not be brown IPAs! They should be malt dominated
amber colour, OG of 1.056-1.065, FG of 1.010-1.016,
beers with a toasted malt character, and the hops
and 40-70 IBUs.
should be riding the crest of the wave of the beer’s
Rye IPA or RIPA add just that little something extra to American IPA to make them more
flavour. The hops should not be a tsunami.” Well, apparently the challenge was accepted,
Drop Dead Red Expected Brew Figures OG: 1.060 FG: 1.015 ABV: 5.9% IBU: 60 Volume: 23 litres
interesting. Generally about 15-20 per cent rye
and now we have a brown IPA category. Brown
malt is substituted for the same amount of pale
IPAs are a logical extension from American IPA
ale malt; crystal malts are used sparingly just as in
the same way that American brown differs from
American IPA. The hops are still the boss. The rye
American pale and amber ale. The goal is a hop
3.8kg Pale Ale Malt
malt adds a pleasant light grainy spiciness to the
forward beer backed by a dry brown ale character.
900g Wheat Malt
malt character, and the overall effect is a slightly
These are eminently drinkable beers, with an OG
drier, more complex beer. American ale yeast
of 1.056-1.070, FG of 1.008-1.016 and 40-70 IBUs.
500g Munich Malt
should be used to avoid confusion with the Belgian
They are of course, brown. American or English
IPA sub-style. The colour of rye IPA is similar to
hop varieties seem to work best.
500g Crystal 40L Malt 150g Dark Crystal 120L 150g Chocolate Malt
American IPA but can be a slightly darker golden
Black IPAs are not stout IPAs; instead they are
to reddish amber. Importantly though, it should
a typical American IPA with the malt character of
not be sweeter. The OG of RIPA is 1.056-1.075, FG
a schwarzbier; black, dry, but not dominated by
50g Midnight Wheat Malt (debittered black)
1.008-1.014 and 50-75 IBUs.
roast malt. Instead, the roast malt and crystal malt
30g Super Pride Hops (15%AA)
Red IPA is the evolution of American amber
characters are just strong enough to round out
30g Galaxy Hops (14%AA)
ale to higher hoppiness. A red IPA balances the
the base malt character, resulting in a hoppy beer
higher bitterness with more malt sweetness,
that tastes fuller and better balanced than its pale
but not to the point where you lose the essential
cousins. Debittered black malts are best; these are
15g Citra (12%AA)
balance of an IPA. In other words, a red IPA is not
smooth black ales without astringency, and even
an imperial red ale; the malt character still only
less grainy or biscuit flavour than in a brown IPA.
California Ale yeast or Safale US-05 dry yeast
plays a supporting role to the hop character, but
Any hop variety can be used, but it is important
the tone of that character is sweeter and more
that hop bitterness and malt bitterness don’t
caramel/toffee rather than golden bread or light
compound each other; avoid the more sulfurous
toast. The colour of a red IPA is deep amber red
varieties. The colour of black IPAs ranges from
to brown with ruby highlights. The OG is 1.056-
deep brown to black with ruby highlights. This beer
1.070, FG 1.008-1.016 and 40-70 IBUs similar
should not really be opaque; if it is, I would bet that
to the other sub-styles. This one is one of my
the specialty malts have exceeded 10 per cent of
favourite styles. The hops should be American or
the grain bill. In fact, the roast malt additions tend
Pacific varieties. The fruitier English hop varieties
to be 5 per cent or less of the grainbill. The OG of
also go well.
black IPA ranges from 1.050-1.085, FG 1.010-1.016
In the current edition of How To Brew (2006) in the recipe chapter for brown ales I state, “The
and the bitterness is 50-90 IBUs. And finally a recipe for one of my favourite IPAs.
“EVERY BEER IS A SYMPHONY OF FLAVOURS AND AROMAS, AND IF A BLONDE ALE IS THE NEAREST THING TO A STRING QUARTET THEN AN IPA IS A BIG BRASS MARCHING BAND” – JOHN PALMER
15g Ella (15%AA)
*Suggested Brewing Water: 100 ppm Calcium, 20 ppm Magnesium, 120 ppm Total Alkalinity, 140 ppm Sulfate, 140 ppm Chloride, 60 ppm Sodium, 40 ppm Residual Alkalinity as CaCO3
Method 1. Single temperature infusion at 65°C for 60 minutes 2. Sparge to 27 liters of 1.052 3. Boil for 60 minutes, adding the Super Pride hops for the duration of the boil 4. Add 15g of Galaxy with 15 minutes left in the boil 5. Add 15g of each Galaxy, Ella and Citra at flameout and whirlpool 6. Cool to 20°C and pitch yeast 7. Ferment at 18-20°C until gravity is about 1.015 and is consistent for consecutive days 8. Bottle and enjoy!
Spring 2016 45
The World’s Oldest Beer? IF YOU SAW THE OLDEST BEER EPISODE ON THE ABC’S CATALYST PROGRAM IN MID-JUNE, YOU’LL ALREADY KNOW SOME OF THE BACKSTORY TO THIS AMAZING TALE. IF YOU DIDN’T, PUT ON YOUR FEDORA FOR THIS INDIANA JONES-LIKE ADVENTURE OF SHIPWRECK, RECOVERY AND WHAT COULD BE THE WORLD’S OLDEST BEER
They got across Bass Strait, which is a great
in Launceston, where they rightly take pride
In 1797, the Sydney Cove trading ship was
achievement in itself, before the longboat
of place. These items will no doubt be of
travelling from Calcutta to Sydney. This was
too was wrecked. They clambered ashore in
even more interest since the showing of the
before the European settlement of Sydney was
modern Victoria and walked (yes walked) to
segment on ABC’s Catalyst and subsequent
even a decade old and supplies were essential
Sydney to alert the authorities. Of the 17, only
to the survival of this new colony.
three survived the trek.
Sydney Cove had already travelled south through the Indian Ocean and was tracking
Fast forward another dozen years and David
along the south coast of Australia when she
Very little happened over the next 193 years.
Thurrowgood is appointed Conservator at
sprung a leak in typically torrential storms.
Except a layer of sand and sea grass swept over
Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery in
The leak wasn’t going to sink the ship but it
the wreck, providing the perfect preservation
Launceston. His background as a chemist
did need 24-7 attention.
blanket for treasure hunters to uncover her
drew him to the ancient bottle of beer and
nearly two centuries later.
he wondered whether the yeast could be
The captain sensibly navigated his ship away from Bass Strait and what would
Mark Nash wouldn’t quite have ‘treasure
recovered and cultured.
become a graveyard for many ships in the
hunter’ on his business card, given that he
ensuing years. However, as they made their
is formally a marine archaeologist. Nash and
that it was almost a case of just ticking it off
way around Tasmania, hurricane type storms
his crew recovered all manner of objects in
the list that we had given it a try and it did
assaulted the vessel and further damage
not work,” says Thurrowgood.
meant the leak grew larger.
“At first it was just such an out there idea
In addition to the regular shipwreck
But that quickly changed as the project
recovery items such as fine china, broken
progressed, and it became apparent that the
Tasmania before the captain made the bold,
bottles and a cannon, were leather shoes,
beer recovered from the Sydney Cove was
but inevitable decision to run the ship ashore
rope, tobacco and the ship’s rudder. Oh,
more than met the eye.
at Preservation Island, saving his crew. Located
and the centrepiece of this adventure,
just north of Tasmania, they couldn’t stay
some unbroken, wax sealed beer bottles,
had as being the world’s oldest known bottled
on Preservation Island forever so the captain
appearing to contain beer!
beer,” Thurrowgood explains.
They pushed on up the east coast of
nominated his fittest 17 crew members to hop in the longboat and row to Sydney.
52 Home Brewer
The recovered items went on display at the Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery
“Nobody had yet recognised the beer we
“I kept searching and searching, and did not turn up any record of another
verified example. This meant that just the molecular composition of the beer would be very interesting from a point of view of understanding the ingredients of beer 220 years ago.” The bottles were fantastically preserved as they were buried in cold sandy conditions with a very unusual wax sealing technique. Recovering unbroken and sealed bottles of this age is very rare as they first need to survive the sinking and then everything else that the coastal waters throw at it over the next 200 odd years. “Soon it became clear that we had a chance of finding something very special and in the back of my mind the 1825 Flag Porter discovery (a porter made by the Darwin Brewery using a yeast recovered from a wreck in the English Channel in 1825) gave me hope that the bottle’s contents might contain more than molecular soup,” says Thurrowgood. “As each step fell into place it became more and more exciting a prospect. The best part about this type of treasure is that once you find it, it reproduces itself.” There were two sealed bottles recovered, one of which was decanted 20 years ago into two containers
One of the bottles discovered in 1990
and stored in different areas of the museum storeroom. But the bottle that Thurrowgood and his team were really interested in was The unopened and sealed bottle thought to contain beer
“SOON IT BECAME CLEAR THAT WE HAD A CHANCE OF FINDING SOMETHING VERY SPECIAL AND IN THE BACK OF MY MIND THE 1825 FLAG PORTER DISCOVERY (A PORTER MADE BY THE DARWIN BREWERY USING A YEAST RECOVERED FROM A WRECK IN THE ENGLISH CHANNEL IN 1825) GAVE ME HOPE THAT THE BOTTLE CONTENTS MIGHT CONTAIN MORE THAN MOLECULAR SOUP” – DAVID THURROWGOOD the one that still had a cork in it
and questioned their results. Then they
with liquid inside. It was sent to the
did what every homebrewer would do
Australian Centre for Ancient DNA in
and made beer with it, which they aptly
Adelaide where it was decanted, but
named, Preservation Ale.
disappointingly it didn’t contain beer. However, there was a second chance
Both samples yielded the same strands of yeast, which were found to
with the samples from the bottle 20
have saccharomyces (brewer’s yeast)
years beforehand. This did contain beer.
and brettanomyces (brett) and another
But it also presented an extraneous
yeast associated with brewing. Having
variable in that there was a risk of
multiple yeasts (especially brett) in a
beer would not have been uncommon
The samples were taken to the
during the days of casual open
Australian Wine Research Institute in
fermentation. The saccharomyces yeast
an effort to culture the yeast. Nothing
is a hybrid that doesn’t fit in the modern
happened for a while. And this is
ale yeast family tree, but is closest to
probably how they expected it to stay.
But then the yeast cells came to life. The scientists replicated the
While many will question the ability to revive a 200-year-old yeast, there
experiment and got the same results. So
are other examples such as the 1825
they did what every scientist would do
Flag Porter and Carlsberg, which
Spring 2016 53
TRAVEL – BELGIUM
THE BEER PILGRIM JOURNEYS TO BELGIUM AND TAKES US INSIDE THE SECRETIVE WORLD OF WESTMALLE
Outside the historic Westmalle Monastery
TRAVEL – BELGIUM
ow…you can’t film, or take
home, so I guess more than anything I was keen to get to
photos. We have to meet our
the source, where these magnificent beers are the norm
escort and discuss how we
(and cost about the same price as a VB back at home!).
will document this, but really the monks are very secretive.
BREAD, COWS, CHEESE AND PRAYER
I can’t even believe we have
Back at the Westmalle entrance, our conversation was
been allowed in!”
We are standing at a huge iron gate outside
cut short as the huge iron gates gave a deep ‘clang’ and slowly opened prompting us to sheepishly wander
‘Westmalle’ Monastery in an attractive rural region
inside. Still completely naïve to the fact so few people
of northern Belgium and my guide seems like he is
have ever actually been allowed into this holy monastery
so nervous and excited that he might explode at any
(let alone filmed it), I wandered in expecting to go
minute. I didn’t really understand why - we head
straight to the bar. Well this wasn’t exactly the case.
inside, film the monks brewing, drink some epic beer
Our escort, who was a very charming fella and
and head off for munchies right?? Wrong. I guess this
obviously well-versed in the delicate politics that
wasn’t business as usual.
stand between the devout Church-going monks and
Could there be a better setting for a self-proclaimed
enough of these extremely limited brews, took us for a
a region where monks brew beer in centuries-old
carefully planned walk around the grounds.
monasteries according to a holy decree and where the
We saw the monastery’s cows, their sheep, their
ritual of beer-drinking is seen by many as a religious
goats, where the cheese is made and where the bread
experience of its own. A region where thousands of
is made. We saw the chapel, we even got to join the
devout beer-lovers flock from around the world on
monks praying in one of their six church services of
their own beer pilgrimages to sample what is often
the day! We saw the monastery’s chickens and their
considered to be the finest beers on planet earth.
veggie patch, we saw a baking monk, a praying monk, a walking monk, a sitting monk, but after an hour we
Europe it was preordained that the Trappist lands of
were yet to see a single brewing monk, let alone drink
Belgium would feature as the pinnacle of my journey.
one of these famous beers!
As a beer lover, I am well-versed in the ritual of paying
SWISS International Airlines fly return from Sydney-Brussels from $1,790.
the thirsty, beer-loving consumers who can’t get
‘Beer Pilgrim’ than the lands of the holy ale? This is
While planning a recent beer pilgrimage through
“I guess as The Beer Pilgrim, you probably want to
extortionate amounts of money for tiny bottles of
see the brewery right?” our escort threw in over my
Belgian beer and carefully dissecting each and every
shoulder as I had just finished setting up a fantastic
tasting note amongst my beer-geek buddies back at
shot of a pea plant. Maybe they just don’t like my
Getting Around: My Tip: Get a Eurail Pass – it will give you complete freedom to jump on and off trains at your own leisure so you can let the spontaneous good times roll!
The cows at Westmalle Monastery
Spring 2016 61
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