Beer & Brewer 56 Autumn 2021 Teaser

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SPICE IT UP HOME BREW WITH HERBS & SPICES

S I E G N A H C

BREWING CLOSING THE GENDER GAP IN THE BEER INDUSTRY

ISSN 1834-5115

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BEERS & CIDERS

REVIEWED 9

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CONTENTS

inside...

Autumn 2021

FEATURES 14 Dessert beers The taste for sweet beer is booming. We speak with two brewers who are fuelling that sugar rush Down Under.

26 Brewing equipment Check out some of the best brewing equipment on the market, for the small guy right through to the big player.

48 Herbs and Spices Have you considered introducing herbs and spices to add something new to your home brewing?

51 Show us Yours A new section where we showcase our reader’s home brewing set ups.

52 Recipes A Golden Gumboots winning recipe from Andrew Childs plus Coopers’ Hazy XPA.

36 Women in brewing We focus on gender equality in the brewing industry and how the doors of diversity are opening to a new generation.

54 Packaging sustainability A look at some of the packaging products that are allowing breweries to minimise their environmental footprints.

HOMEBREWER 42 Welcome 43 Letters 44 Q&A Homebrewing legend John Palmer looks at Oat Cream IPAs and provides a recipe so you can make one at home.

46 Jake’s Brew Log Jake Brandish focuses on IPAs plus dishes up a Cowaramup Brewing recipe.

4 www.beerandbrewer.com

48

14 “You might be a huge cheesecake fan and then you see a cheesecake beer and something in you just goes ‘wow’. It’s like you’re already experiencing emotions before you’ve even tried the beer,” Dereck Hales, Bad Shepherd

26 “With all confidence I can say that Australian beers rate just as well as any on the world stage,” Tina Panoutsos

REGULARS 6 Gift ideas 8 What’s on guide 10 Beer memories BentSpoke’s Rich Watkins cycles down his beer memory lane

12 Behind the beer XPAs with Prancing Pony’s Frank Samson

24 Style shoot 26 A pint with Tina Panoutsos, Sensory expert

62 Food match recipes 66 Tasting notes Our expert panel review 106 beverages, where our key seasonal focus is on XPAs.

81 Competition 82 Directory

Go to page 81 to win craft glassware and see your review in print!

39 10 AUTUMN 2021 5

BEHIND THE BEER

The Pony X-PRESS

it into the style book, so it’s very much open to a brewer’s interpretation. Of course, marketing can have a big influence on the final profile too. Against that background, pitching one’s own XPA can be challenging when there’s quite a bit of argument out there where it should sit. We decided to move our XPA closer to a Session IPA. We wanted both the appearance and the flavour to convey a full flavoured refreshing ale that’s very easy drinking at the same time. We gave it as much traditional Pale Ale malt in the

IN OUR CONTINUING SERIES THAT TAKES A CLOSER LOOK AT A PARTICULAR STYLE OF BEER FEATURED IN OUR TASTING REVIEW SECTION, WE FOCUS ON THE EXTRA PALE ALE (XPA) IN THIS ISSUE AND CHAT WITH PRANCING PONY’S DIRECTOR AND HEAD BREWER FRANK SAMSON.

grist bill as possible (70%) to give it a nice

W

as our stronger Pale Ales. The Beer finishes

malt backbone but keep the colour light. The rest of the malt bill is taken up in equal parts

by Pilsner malt and Light Crystal. A simple grist bill really works well. Foam retention is great and the beer laces nicely, just as good just a smidgen over 2 Plato so it’s technically

ith no official

drinking perception. This style is generally

quite dry, but it retains significant malt

guide to bind

very smashable and not filling. Its hoppiness

flavour nevertheless. For flavour hops we use

it, an XPA is

is usually kept in check, which adds to the

Citra and Mandarina Bavaria, for the citrusy

still, despite

appeal for people who are not necessarily IPA

backbone, and Simcoe to give it a little bit of

the ongoing

drinkers at other times.”

a fruity/earthy edge and overall hop balance.

debate, whatever

Frank’s own XPA Session Ale has been

On technical parameters, our XPA falls right

a brewer determines it should be for their

capped at the more moderate end of the

into the Session IPA category (as per the

market – within the broad parameters of a

XPA ABV scale, and, at 4.1%, lends itself to

BA style book), except perhaps on the hop

hoppy Pale Ale to a not-so-hoppy IPA and

sessionability with a light to moderate body

assertiveness, which we deliberately kept

somewhere in the low four to high five per

and a nice refreshing hop profile.

in check so it’s not an ‘in your face’ beer.

cent territory and in varying shades of pale.

So much for the challenges of brewing an

biggest selling craft beers in Australia as

WHEN YOU SET OUT TO BREW THE XPA SESSION ALE, WHAT WERE YOUR INTENTIONS FOR IT AND HOW DID YOU GO ABOUT ACHIEVING IT?

they get gulped up year round as the ideal

As the XPA style is understood to sit between

gateway drink for those dipping their toes

an American Pale Ale and an IPA we intended

into craft or for those aficionados looking

to capture the XPA audience as well as

for that ‘in between’ quencher. And the

those in favour of a Session IPA. Whilst our

beautiful thing about the fact so many

XPA comes in at 52 IBUs, it’s

different interpretations are on the market

not overly dry hopped. It thus

is there’s an XPA for everyone – whether

appeals to both – those seeking

they’re in North Queensland or Tasmania

an easy but nicely hopped

or whether it’s the height of Summer or the

Pale Ale and those who’d

depths of Winter.

rather go for an approachable

Although these loose rules even get bent from time to time too!

But whichever way the style is rendered, multiple variations are now some of the

Frank Samson, director and head brewer

Session IPA.

at South Australia’s Prancing Pony Brewery sums the style up as thus: “This style tends to have moderate to strong citrusy and/or fruity hop aroma and flavour – rather than a dank one – and a lighter body than an American Pale Ale or an IPA. “This makes it an appealing, refreshing

WHAT ARE THE KEY CHALLENGES WHEN BREWING THIS XPA AND HOW DO YOU OVERCOME THOSE? The XPAs in the market can

go-to ale. Its lighter colour, as some brewers

vary from low 4% ABV to high

would argue, adds to the refreshing, easy

5% ABV. The XPA has not made

12 www.beerandbrewer.com

XPA – a style that has some hotly debated perceptions around it. May the punter be the judge.

Prancing Pony’s XPA Session Ale Malts: Pale Ale, Pilsner, Light Crystal Hops: Citra, Mandarina Bavaria, Simcoe Plato: 2°P Bitterness: 52 IBU ABV: 4.1% What our tasting panel said: “In a style that is still so very open to the interpretation and whims of a brewer, the team at Prancing Pony have landed an easy drinking and lower alcohol Pale Ale, that drinks fuller than its stats predict, ticking the “extra” box of an XPA with flavour.”

Go to page 76 for the full review.

BEHIND THE BEER

“THE PERFECT SETTING FOR THIS BEER IS A FRIDAY AFTERNOON IN YOUR FAVOURITE WATERING HOLE WITH YOUR FRIENDS. ESPECIALLY ON A HOT DAY, YOU CAN HAVE A FEW AT THE 4.1 % ABV LEVEL WITHOUT MISSING OUT ON A GENEROUS HOP FLAVOUR EXPERIENCE. IT’S BOTH A REAL THIRST QUENCHER AS WELL AS A TASTE TEASER,” FRANK SAMSON

AUTUMN 2021 13

DESSERT BEERS

AS THE PROGRESSION OF BEER PREFERENCE MOVES AT PACE, WE’RE INCREASINGLY SEEING CONSUMERS ADDING SWEETER BEERS TO THEIR REPERTOIRE OF DRINK CHOICES. HAS IT BEEN A NATURAL PROGRESSION TO THE SWEETER END OF THE SPECTRUM, MUCH LIKE HAZY IPAS HAVE EXPERIENCED OVER WEST COAST VARIANTS? HAS COVID-19 ADVANCED THEIR POPULARITY QUICKER THAN THEY WOULD HAVE OTHERWISE? OR ARE BREWERS JUST NATURALLY PRONE TO PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES OF WHAT THEIR CRAFT CAN ACHIEVE? GIFFORD LEE SPOKE WITH TWO BREWERS WHO ARE FUELLING THE SUGAR RUSH DOWN UNDER TO FIND OUT WHY.

AUTUMN 2021 15

DESSERT BEERS

I

t wasn’t that long ago, 10 years give or take, that it was all about bitterness and maximising IBUs in big IPAs in the United States. Then, as the East Coast variants started to sway tastes, with their haziness and barely there bitterness, the sweet side of

the ledger began to take charge. Now the pointy end of that sugar rush, dessert beers, in their many guises, are having their cake and making us eat it too as we get high on sweet, big booze with a nostalgic bent.

But this progression shouldn’t surprise, or the fact that the beer industry is capitalising on our sweet

Photo credit: Lewis Alexander

teeth. Remember, many of the world’s biggest drinks makers peddle fizzy sugar water and have done so for decades.

Pastry stouts, milkshake IPAs, ice cream sours and the like had been growing in popularity in recent years and with or without COVID, sales of them may have skyrocketed in 2020 anyway. But it appears the global pandemic has propelled them into the drink choice repertoires of a lot more people in a very short space of time.

Just as sales of junk food increased during periods of lockdown, some brewers are reporting massive spikes in sales of their sweeter beers.

And it’s easy to imagine why: people can’t go out; they’re seeking new creature comforts to replace lost ones; they’re after nostalgia; and, last but certainly not least, they want big booze.

America’s Brewers Association announced recently sales of sweet stouts rose eight per cent in 2020 compared to 2019 while Tavour, that country’s largest online craft beer retailer, rushed to add ‘Pastry Stout’ and ‘Imperial Pastry Stout’ to their style categories as search enquiries took off.

The proof, ahem, will be in the pudding whether this trend will continue when the world returns to normal but in Australia at least we don’t seem to be skipping on dessert just yet.

SHEPHERDING YOU INTO TEMPTATION For Bad Shepherd Brewing in Cheltenham, 2020 was the year they went, inadvertently, from a brewery largely known for their paler beers to the dark beer brewery choice of many.

That journey began in the Summer of 2019 when a release in their Brew Crew Series (where permanent staff members get to make their own beer) hit the sweet spot.

The Peanut Butter Porter* was the creation of their previous head chef, whose wife hailed from Ohio where the Buckeye – a peanut butter fudge ball dipped in chocolate – was a traditional favourite. The brew crew reimagined the treat in beer form and it took off.

16 www.beerandbrewer.com

Impulse buying Australia’s largest online craft beer retailer Beer Cartel has seen huge growth in the sales of dessert beers and adjunct-laden styles in the past 12 months.

Co-owner Richard Kelsey said 30 to 40 per cent of all new beers sold on the site are now adjunct-laden and where they used to buy a single case of these types of beers they are, at times, purchasing as much as 10 times that amount.

“It is the new trend and in a lot of ways overlaps with the haze craze of New England IPAs, particularly for the likes of milkshake IPAs,” he said.

“Customers are constantly amazed with the ability of different beers to highlight flavours not normally associated with beer as breweries push the envelope in what can be produced. The sweeter dessert styles also lend themselves to consumers who previously were put off by the bitter taste of the more traditional hoppier, bitter styles.

“I believe they are here to stay. The sweetness and lack of bitterness of the styles mean that people new to craft beer are less put off. In the same way that hazy IPAs changed people’s perception of hops, dessert and adjunct-based beers are just the next step in the evolution of beer.”

BREWING FEATURE

36 www.beerandbrewer.com

BREWING FEATURE

The new normal

LIKE SO MANY OTHER ASPECTS OF OUR SOCIETY, THE BEER AND BREWING INDUSTRY HAS A LONG WAY TO TRAVEL TO REACH GENDER EQUALITY. BUT THAT JOURNEY HAS BEEN HAPPENING AND WHILE THE TASK IS FAR FROM OVER DIVERSITY IS GROWING AND ACCEPTANCE IS BECOMING MORE NORMAL EVERYDAY. WHILE THE INDUSTRY IS A WIDE AND VARIED ONE, WE NARROWED IT DOWN AND SPOKE WITH SEVERAL BREWERS WHO HAVE WITNESSED CHANGE TAKING PLACE FIRST HAND AS WELL AS PINK BOOTS SOCIETY AUSTRALIA PRESIDENT TIFFANY WALDRON. BY GIFFORD LEE

F

or the last half of my 10-year-old son’s life he and I have often watched women’s sport together, both on the television and live at the ground, as the many sporting codes in Australia finally got on board the bullet train bound for gender equality. My hope at the start was he would simply appreciate women

were damn good at the likes of football and cricket and that you could watch these heroes live on the box too. But now, because the television companies, the sporting organisations, the media and the women themselves have invested in raising the profile of women’s sport in this country, he’s as much at home barracking for the females as he is for the men. He doesn’t know any different and certainly can’t picture my world when I was the same age he is now.

While there’s still much to do to even the playing field, like seeing more female coaches, administrators, funding and pay equity, the journey has begun and fingers crossed his generation and those that follow carry it on.

The same thing has been happening in the beer and brewing industry in Australia as multiple breweries, organisations and individuals have banged down the doors of diversity in an attempt to let people, themselves included, walk through and hopefully find an altogether new reality where one can learn, grow and prosper – regardless of gender.

AUTUMN 2021 37

FEATURE

Spice up your life FOR THE SAME REASONS WE USE THEM FOR COOKING, HERBS AND SPICES ARE GREAT WAYS TO INTRODUCE NEW AND INTERESTING ELEMENTS TO HOME BREWING. SO LET’S LOOK AT SPICING THINGS UP A LITTLE.

down the drain. When thinking what to use, step back from brewing for a second and consider what types of herbs and spices go well with different types of foods. Bold and flavoursome foods tend to work better with bolder herbs and spices – like beef with soy or chilli, and subtle, more delicate flavours would therefore go with the same. Stouts and IPAs are used quite a bit with these bolder

THE SPICE OF LIFE

berries, juniper and others. Herbs and local

flavours like coffee and more flavoursome

The use of herbs and spices in brewing goes

‘weeds’ were used extensively too and bog

fruits, or the addition would overpower the

back in history thousands of years, pretty

myrtle gets a lot of mentions in historical

beer. When designing your brew, probably

much to the beginning of beer itself. They

texts. Sounds yummy! Herbs and spices are

the first thing to decide on is which herb or

were one of beer’s main elements to give

still used in brewing these days most notably

spice you want to experiment with and why

it flavour and to balance out the malt, or

so in the likes of Belgian Wit beers, Christmas

and then pick a base beer that you think may

whatever fermentables were being used,

ales, Pumpkin ales, vanilla stouts and a

be complementary. You could even get your

which is what we use hops for today. In most

myriad of new wave specialty brews.

herb or spice and spike a few small glasses

likelihood the herb and spice additions would

of different types of beers to see what you

have made the beverage palatable, as it may

EASY TIGER

like the taste of. This will give you a good

have been quite a nasty brew otherwise!

When you start playing around with herbs

grounding (pardon the pun) on where to

Both herbs and spices were such a large part

and spices in your brewing it becomes

start. At a home brew comp once, a mate of

of day-to-day living back then and local

apparent pretty fast that one must err

mine brewed a green chilli beer. Now, I don’t

produce was obviously the only option. Hence

on the side of caution as it’s very easy

really like chilli beers at all, but this was

many beers and different beverages that

to overdo it – especially with spices like

outstanding. It was more aroma than flavour,

later evolved into beer were brewed with the

nutmeg, cinnamon and cardamom. Trust

which was wonderfully fresh and zesty

likes of dates, nutmeg, vanilla pods, heather,

me, an over-spiced beer will probably go

but didn’t take your throat out! Hi Asher!

48 HomeBrewer

FEATURE

“DOGFISH HEAD BREWERY RELEASED A TV SERIES CALLED ‘BREWMASTERS’ WHERE FOUNDER SAM CALAGIONE AND HIS TEAM INVESTIGATED THE VARIETY OF BREWING INGREDIENTS FROM THE PAST INCLUDING TAMARILLO AND POHUTUKAWA (NZ CHRISTMAS TREE) BEER”!

The fresh green chilli was so apparent and

properties of a bittering agent to bring some

modern (in the thousands of years of brewing

wonderfully pungent, but was not so hot on

balance and, after all, brewing a successful

anyway) form of beer brewed in the Middle

the palate. A credit to the brewer who really

beer is all about balance. When beer was first

Ages was gruit. This crude beer was made

knew his method and knew exactly what he

created thousands of years ago, they used all

with bog myrtle, juniper, wild rosemary,

wanted from the beer.

sorts of products to make it. Not only were

ginger and more and mixed with the

various types of grains and cereals used, but

fermentable starch to make a muddy brew.

BEFORE HOPS

all manner of native flavours were added.

The malt that was used would have more than

If you’ve ever brewed a beer and either

Heather was widely used in Scottish and UK

likely been dried over an open fire, giving it

chose or forgot to add the hops, you would

ales, as were bramble nettles, rosemary and

a smoky flavour. The malts that were left on

have found out it was a pretty bland,

more. It wasn’t until much later in beer’s

the fire a little too long were also chucked

cloying beverage. Beer really does need the

evolution that hops were used. A more

in, so strong melanoidins and specialty type malts were used too. Whilst talking about medieval drinks, braggot is another common

“GINGER BEER IS ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR NON-BEER BEERS AROUND!”

one. This drink is a beer made with grains, honey and herbs and spices.

A TIME AND A PLACE Once you have selected your desired herb and/or spice, it’s time to add it in to your recipe formulation. It’s important that a bit of research is done prior to adding your extra ingredients and, with most things in life, timing is everything. The vast majority of spices are added at the very end of the boil or just after primary fermentation has slowed down, depending on the herb or spice you are adding. By adding too early in the boil, you may promote some bittering or off flavour compounds that you may not have thought about. Think about adding garlic to a dish. If you add it early, the garlic introduces a completely different flavour profile than if you added it relatively late.

The raw garlic versus the cooked will make

AUTUMN 2021 49

PACKAGING SUSTAINABILITY

“PAKTECH HANDLES ARE JUST PART OF THE GOOD STORY WE TELL, ALONG WITH SOLAR POWER, WASTEWATER AND THE INCREASED FOCUS ON BREWING EFFICIENCIES,” MICHAEL ‘MC’ CAMERON

54 www.beerandbrewer.com

PACKAGING SUSTAINABILITY

LEADERS OF THE PACK BREWERIES ARE CONSTANTLY STRIVING TO DO THEIR BIT, AND MORE, TO MINIMISE THEIR ENVIRONMENTAL FOOTPRINTS. WE TAKE A LOOK AT SOME OF THE PACKAGING PRODUCTS AND COMPANIES THAT ARE ALLOWING THEM TO DO THAT. BY GIFFORD LEE

S

ince founding in 2014,

“Distance and heat are the two major

Pirate Life Brewing has

issues, and also getting customers to

experienced incredible

understand how unstable beer is at the

growth. From 600,000

wrong temperatures.”

litres in its first full year of operation to approximately

For a country as large, and with as varied a climate, as Australia, this makes

11 million litres of total capacity today – the

sense. There’s also the rugged Australian

South Australian brewery has gone further

environment to consider.

and faster than many of its peers. Add in top

“We started out with 100 per cent cans

five spots in the GABS Hottest 100 as early as

in our range, and PakTech was always part

2015, and countless medals at Australian and

of our plans,” MC said. “The handles just

MC sees extending into the future. When

international beer awards, and Pirate Life is

look great, they are strong enough to handle

asked where he saw beer packaging moving

the true double-threat: award-winning beers

the tough Australian environment, and

over the next five to 10 years, he predicted,

with wide-spread distribution.

customers really like them because they look

“the development of more sustainable

neat and tidy on shelves and allow the can

products in all forms of packaging.”

“I don’t think we are more unique than any other brewery,” founder Michael ‘MC’ Cameron said. “But we did have an intense focus on quality when we first began.”

One look at Pirate Life’s beers—both core and limited releases—shows that MC isn’t

In fact, it’s this trend in sustainability that

artwork to shine through.”

Another big part of Pirate Life’s

FIT, FORM AND FUNCTION

reasons for choosing PakTech handles are

As soon as PakTech entered the Australian

their sustainability.

market they quickly grew as one of the

“PakTech handles are just part of the

preferred packaging choices for the local craft

kidding. Growth like theirs isn’t an accident,

good story we tell, along with solar power,

beer industry. The fit, form and function of

and keeping a consistent, flavourful product

wastewater and the increased focus on

their handles were obvious advantages, but

is a big part of the equation. And, according

brewing efficiencies. ”

the sustainability of them are perhaps what

to MC, a big part of accomplishing that comes down to packaging in cans.

“As you know, there are a lot of pluses to using cans, but quality is the key one.”

He identified shielding the beer from light

That’s right—even though the old-time

has tipped the scale in their favour when

pirates made some pretty dodgy decisions

breweries like Pirate Life have considered one

when it came to their own health, the

product over another.

health of others, and the health of their

Since beginning to use 100 per cent

surroundings, Pirate Life are different.

recycled high-density polyethylene (HDPE),

to prevent skunking and creating an airtight

Along with solely using the 100 per cent

PakTech has repurposed over a half a billion

seal to prevent oxidation as the major reasons

recycled and recyclable handles from

recycled milk containers into packaging

why craft breweries have been moving into

PakTech, they’ve added solar panels to their

handles which has kept over 36 million

cans for years. But there are also unique

breweries’ roofs and installed a full effluent

kilograms of plastic out of the waste stream –

challenges to brewing and selling beer in

treatment plant at their Port Adelaide

or 12 hectares of land from needing to be used

Australia that Pirate Life needed to consider.

brewery to responsibly treat wastewater.

for landfill waste.

AUTUMN 2021 55

BREWING FEATURE

BREWING FEATURE

The new normal

LIKE SO MANY OTHER ASPECTS OF OUR SOCIETY, THE BEER AND BREWING INDUSTRY HAS A LONG WAY TO TRAVEL TO REACH GENDER EQUALITY. BUT THAT JOURNEY HAS BEEN HAPPENING AND WHILE THE TASK IS FAR FROM OVER DIVERSITY IS GROWING AND ACCEPTANCE IS BECOMING MORE NORMAL EVERYDAY. WHILE THE INDUSTRY IS A WIDE AND VARIED ONE, WE NARROWED IT DOWN AND SPOKE WITH SEVERAL BREWERS WHO HAVE WITNESSED CHANGE TAKING PLACE FIRST HAND AS WELL AS PINK BOOTS SOCIETY AUSTRALIA PRESIDENT TIFFANY WALDRON. BY GIFFORD LEE

F

WIN CRAFT GLASSWARE & HAVE YOUR REVIEW PUBLISHED (see page 81)

or the last half of my 10-year-old son’s life he and

INCLUDING

I have often watched women’s sport together, both

on the television and live at the ground, as the many sporting codes in Australia finally got on board the bullet train bound for gender equality. My hope at the start was he would simply appreciate women

were damn good at the likes of football and cricket and that you could watch these heroes live on the box too. But now, because the television companies, the sporting organisations, the media and the women themselves have invested in raising the profile of women’s sport in this country, he’s as much at home barracking for the females as he is for the men. He doesn’t know any different and certainly can’t picture my world when I was the same age he is now.

While there’s still much to do to even the playing field, like seeing more female coaches, administrators, funding and pay equity, the

ISSUE 56 AUTUMN 2021

journey has begun and fingers crossed his generation PRICE $9.95 (NZand $11.95)those that follow carry it on.

WIN CRAFT GLASSWARE & HAVE YOUR REVIEW PUBLISHED (see page 81)

SWEET DREAMS

The same thing has been happening in the beer and brewing industry in Australia as multiple breweries, organisations and

INCLUDING

individuals have banged down the doors of diversity in an attempt to let people, themselves included, walk through and hopefully find an altogether new reality where one can learn, grow and prosper –

OUR AFFINITY FOR DESSERT BEERS

regardless of gender.

36

www.beerandbrewer.com

AUTUMN 2021

37

ISSUE 56 AUTUMN 2021 PRICE $9.95 (NZ $11.95)

SWEET DREAMS

SPICE IT UP HOME BREW WITH HERBS & SPICES

OUR AFFINITY FOR DESSERT BEERS

SPICE IT UP HOME BREW WITH HERBS & SPICES

CHANGE IS

BREWING

CHANGE IS

BREWING

CLOSING THE GENDER GAP IN THE BEER INDUSTRY

CLOSING THE GENDER GAP IN THE BEER INDUSTRY

BEERS & CIDERS

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PLUS! RICH WATKINS’ BEER MEMORIES | NEW BREW TECH | 5 DIY RECIPES WWW.BEERANDBREWER.COM

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