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PHOTOGRAPHY | TANZARO CREATIVE

OUTERWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION CONTINUES TO PROVIDE PROTECTION THROUGH NECESSITY, FUNCTION, PRACTICALITY AND DURABILITY. IT SERVES AS A MEANS TO COMMUNICATE IDENTITY ACROSS TIME, GEOGRAPHY, CLIMATE, INDUSTRY AND SOCIETY. In tribute to historical and cultural significance, 2nd Year Fashion Design and Technology students at Manchester Metropolitan University reinterpreted iconic outerwear pieces. Juxtaposing creative ambition with a defined end consumer to award real clothes aspirational narratives.

Jennifer Shaw | Whistles The Duffle or Duffel coat, originally named after a town in Belgium where the thick woollen material was produced, was popularised after World War II when British Royal Navy surplus was made available to civilians. Incorporating but refining essences of Polish Folk costumes into Duffle detailing has produced a simplistic but modern outcome. Silhouette has been inspired by exaggerated circle skirts and colourful stripes are echoed in panelling and internal bias bound seams. Clean and elegant with a twist, this design would appeal to the classically stylish consumer who shops at Whistles. Jonathan Ferris | Maison Margiela Decortique showerproof canvas Trench coat cut into the memory of a bondage suit, with an open-cut back and tulle bustle, hand dipped in liquid latex and self-levelling gel. Celebrating and exploiting concealment and exposure; everyone has a fetish, a kink. Often, even outwardly shy, mundane people, have a sexual trigger behind closed doors. Research consisted of investigation into the dark underbelly of pornography, prostitution and homosexuality, all illegal under the third Reich to those not in the SS-elite. For a contemporary edge, clashing with Berlin based techno music, ecstasy, hallucinations and ‘glory-hole’ portals into another dimension. “A shy girl stands nervously in the queue with her girlfriend outside of the Berghain. Hiding inside her Trench coat, she walks forward as a guy behind her steps on the back, accidentally tearing it. It reveals her kinky rubber outfit underneath: an entry into her soul. Confidently, owning her new look, their outfits and status are ‘approved’ and they enter the hard-core world of the mammoth techno sex-club – ready to loose their minds together.” A narrative of love and time-travel inspired by John Galliano’s Maison Margiela. Lilly Harris | Sacai The Duffle coat is historically attributed to the Polish frock coat, which was developed around 1820. Developed by British outerwear manufacturer John Partridge in the1850’s, variations have been widely used by the military. Although initially worn by male soliders, the duffle was commercially popularised by students wearing Army Surplus and from 1950’s, the firm Gloverall produced their own version using leather fastenings, buffalo horn toggles and a double-faced check lining. The overall design has remaining fairly unchanged throughout the last century. Turning both the notion and detailing of the duffle on its head to create something feminine, sporty and modern. Replacing traditional toggles with buckles, creating a detachable ‘skirt’ so the coat could be cropped, and including a ruched sleeve to disrupt the standard silhouette; all allowing customisation by the wearer. Ciara Mcclay | Faustine Steinmetz Traditionally a masculine workwear garment, the denim jacket has prevailed true to origins whilst withstanding cultural, social and fashion evolutions to become a staple in all gendered wardrobes. Faustine Steinmetz is a high-end designer creating individual pieces using dynamic fabric combinations and bespoke textural techniques. These ideas influenced the frayed details and fan stitching on the collar and hem. The final fabric/print combinations would produce a colour contrast whilst the quintessential denim lapfelled seaming has been used to accentuate a female form. Hardware is rose gold for a modern feminine finish and the welt coin pockets maintain the element of denim practicality.

Naima Touray | Marni Inspired by the Inuit people that originally lived along the northern Alaska coast, this interpretation of a Parka combines details of a Trench coat with the minimalism and luxurious aesthetic of Marni. Using complementary high-end materials: leather, nylon and wool with innovative bonding fabrication, has created a functioning garment for extreme, cold climates. This unisex jacket conveys power through silhouette and detail.

Jacob Mbaki | Balenciaga The quilted down jacket or Puffa was patented by Eddie Baurer in 1940. His was the first independent company that the US Army hired whilst allowing the logo to be used on issued uniform. Influence was drawn from both the history of Balenciaga with its high-end target market and the outdoor heritage and function of the Puffa jacket. The finished outcome plays with design details from Eddie Baurer’s quilted lines and resembles Balenciaga’s early 70’s perfect seams and fit.

Elise Turner | Tommy Hilfiger Originally worn by workers and cowboys the western style jacket, usually made in hard-wearing, indigo dyed, heavy weight cotton twill with metal trims is commonly referred to as the denim jacket. Inspired by the timelessness of industrious heritage, this constant classic has been investigated through photography and deconstruction. The adjustable sleeve has modernised a traditional pleat detail and the resulting design could sit within a contemporary ‘authentic denim’ range for a brand such as Tommy Hilfiger.

Jordan Fergusson | Burberry Named after its Scottish inventor Charles Macintosh, the Mac or Macintosh raincoat was born of function and necessity. Analysis of key details such as epaulettes presented opportunities for transformation. Creating a detachable jacket and trouser / boiler suit offers the wearer individuality and optionality, whilst maintaining a classic silhouette. The raglan sleeves, collar, button shape and size are a nostalgic tribute to the inspiration.

Isabelle Johnson | Versace From humble workwear beginnings, customised denim has prevailed as a symbol of disobedience within popular culture. Prolific in the 50s, 60s and 70s, but recently gaining wider global recognition, Swiss photographer Karlheinz Weinberger documented ‘Rebel Youth’, a generation in search of their identity. Inspired by an image of a pair of jeans fastened with large bolts and also showcasing archetypal studs and chains, the denim jacket has been reinterpreted. The aesthetic is in keeping with Versace, a brand that Weinberger has been linked to influencing. Kristy Yim | Y/Project Attributed to the Inuit, for caribou and seal hunting in the extreme conditions of the Arctic, the Parka has since been adopted through many variations by the military. Inspired by a summer in London, the desire to be protected and hidden is satisfied by a characteristic silhouette, large hood and use of fur. Juxtaposing my personal experience of feeling lost within a maze by creating a lazer cut pattern depicting the discovery of a mapped route. Elizabeth Kynaston | Vivienne Westwood Investigating the Trench coat through the first and second World Wars, leading onto the effects of destruction on architecture and the resultant development of prefabs. The construction uses interchangeable multiple panels. The body employs a kilt pin and buttonhole system, allowing the wearer to style themselves by adding up to four additional ‘coats’ as draped panels. The same detail has been echoed down the centre front fastening, and all the elements are bought together using ribbon on the seams and hems. Hannah Robertson | Rodarte Reinventing the Trench coat, playing on femininity as epitomised in classic black and white cinema by Marlene Dietrich, Sophia Loren and Bridgette Bardot. Inspiration by way of Irish Travellers and the portrayal of Rodarte design DNA. Analysis of traditional Traveller smocking, led to an alternative technique of fabric manipulation to create texture. Gathering tiers of chiffon as embellishment, with bonded lace and satin trim to finish the inside edges, results in a high quality finish fitting of a couture label.

DIRECTION | Rebecca de Lacy COPY | Thida Hawkins PRODUCT PHOTOGRAPHY | Tanzaro Creative EXHIBITION PHOTOGRAPHY | Richard Kelly

JENNIFER SHAW

JONATHAN FERRIS

LILY HARRIS

CIARA MCCLAY

NAIMA TOURAY

ELISE TURNER

ISABELLE JOHNSON

KIRSTY YIM

ELIZABETH KYNASTON

HANNAH ROBERTSON

JACOB MBAKI

JORDAN FERGUSSON