What’s the Story with PDRN?

Popular in K-Beauty and projected for rapid growth due to its myriad skin benefits, there's more to PDRN than a social media craze.

Skin specialists are likely to have seen the ingredient Polydeoxyribonucleotide – or PDRN – appearing on product labels recently; you may even have had clients enquiring about the ‘salmon sperm’ facial that’s trending online.

Traditionally derived from salmon sperm DNA (hence the name of the celebrity-loved facial), the global popularity of PDRN is set to explode in the coming years. A recent report* values the global market for PDRN in 2024 was worth $72.1 million, projected to reach $855 million by 2031. PDRN’s biggest market is Asia-Pacific, with the ingredient emerging mostly in skin care formulations originating from South Korea, China and Japan.

According to Valuate (reports.valuates.com), major factors driving the ingredient’s growth include its increasing use in liquid form in aesthetic treatments such as mesotherapy, dermatological treatments and injections as a biologically active alternative to synthetic fillers. PDRN powder is favoured in microneedling, skin rejuvenation and scar treatment.

“PDRN is a DNA-based compound, most commonly derived from salmon sperm cells, known for its powerful regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties. It stimulates specific receptors in the skin that support tissue repair, collagen production and accelerated cell turnover,” explains Abi Oleck, skin expert and founder of Beau Skin London (www.beauskinlondon.co.uk).

“Originally used in medical settings for wound recovery, it has become a key player in aesthetic treatments for its ability to rejuvenate and heal the skin.”

Clare O‘Hanlon, Business Development Director of Boost Beauty Solutions (www.skinboosters.ie), agrees that PDRN is not a new discovery. She says:

“PDRN is an ingredient whose therapeutic action in medical aesthetics has attracted the attention of the scientific community since 1989 and in recent years a variety of clinical studies have been carried out to demonstrate its wide range of properties and understand its mechanism of action.”

A vegan alternative?

“A rising player in the PDRN skincare industry is vegan PDRN aka phyto PDRN,” explains Singapore-based aesthetic doctor, Dr Rachel Ho (www.drrachelho.com). in a recent blog post**.

“Derived from plant sources like roses, ginseng and green tea, vegan PDRN has been touted to be an alternative to salmon PDRN and without the controversies of animal harvested PDRN.

“Vegan PDRN refers to DNA fragments from plants (known as phyto PDRN) or microorganisms (also referred to as L-PDRN); and aim to mimic the therapeutic and regenerative benefits of salmon PDRN.”

She continues:

“The bulk of evidence for PDRN’s benefits to the skin come from studies involving salmon PDRN injected into the skin. Evidence for topical salmon PDRN on the skin in peer reviewed journals is much less. For vegan PDRN skincare, evidence is even more scarce and variable in quality; with different studies examining different sources of plant derived PDRN.

“Ultimately, as with any active ingredient and skincare, the effectiveness of vegan PDRN depends on the formula of the product. Factors such as concentration and stability can influence product performance.”

Aesthetic effects of PDRN

It can be used alongside advanced treatments such as light therapy, microneedling and infusion treatments.

“What many practitioners may not realise is that PDRN’s regenerative effect goes well beyond traditional mesotherapy-style injection protocols,” explains Aleksandra Calka, owner of Coco Beauty Clinic and Educator at SkinEdu (www.skinedu.co.uk).

“When used strategically alongside modalities like LED light therapy, specifically red and near-infrared wavelengths, it can amplify fibroblast activity and reduce post-treatment inflammation, accelerating the healing phase and enhancing the final result.

“Additionally, PDRN can be introduced into microneedling treatments using a stamping or nano-infusion technique (rather than traditional mesotherapy injection). This allows for high absorption in clients who are needle-averse or prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). It is particularly effective on delicate or reactive skin types, where minimal trauma is key.”

PDRN is now known for improving skin elasticity and hydration, supporting the skin’s barrier function, improving tissue regeneration and collagen stimulation as well as inhibiting collagen degrading Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). It also inhibits melanin synthesis and tyrosinase enzyme activity, promotes DNA repair and skin cell growth and improves the flow of blood and nutrition to skin tissue.

“PDRN acts as a ‘cellular messenger’ sending signals that stimulate tissue repair and regeneration, promote new cell growth, reduce inflammation and accelerate skin healing,” explain advanced skin experts CACI, who have recently introduced a PDRN-based infusion serum.

As a result, skin appears rejuvenated, hyperpigmentation and melasma is reduced, acne scarring is improved and sensitive skin, or skin compromised post-procedure, is strengthened. “[PDRN] also helps regenerate hair growth in combination with laser therapy,” adds Clare O‘Hanlon.

She continues:

“Another lesser-known synergy is combining PDRN with antioxidant-based skin infusions or pre-treatment vitamin C protocols. Because PDRN works by stimulating cellular repair, pairing it with antioxidants helps neutralise oxidative stress that could otherwise impede results especially in clients with sun-damaged or inflamed skin.

“In cases of chronic barrier dysfunction or adult acne linked to over-exfoliation or aggressive actives, I also incorporate PDRN into recovery protocols. It helps reset the skin’s regenerative rhythm without further irritation—something many therapists overlook when treating impaired skin.”

“PDRN is not a passing trend, it’s a scientifically supported ingredient with growing popularity in both holistic and aesthetic settings,” says Abi Oleck. “As demand for regenerative, nonsurgical treatments increases, PDRN is expected to remain a cornerstone in age management, scar healing and skin recovery protocols.”

*Global Polydeoxyribonucleotide(PDRN) Filler Market Research Report 2024 (https://reports.valuates. com/market-reports/QYRE-Auto-20R17729/ global-polydeoxyriboneucleotide-pdrn-filler)

**Is Vegan or Plant PDRN as effective as Salmon PDRN? (https://www.drrachelho.com/blog/veganplant-phyto-pdrn-skincare)