Food Guide 2022: Rediscovering Newton

REDISCOVERING NEWTON FOOD GUIDE 2022

Newton is back—or at least getting there.

As the COVID-19 pandemic wanes and Newtonians return to in-person dining, The Heights rediscovers the food that defines the city.

PHOTO BY VICTOR STEFANESCU / HEIGHTS EDITOR

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The Heights

FROM NEWTON CENTRE Poache d Egg

ée r u P p i sn r a P SYCAMORE

By Natalie Arndt Newsletter Editor

Ethan Gordon For The Heights

Newtonians do not need to venture into Boston for a contemporary take on French comfort food, as Sycamore provides a unique, upscale menu in a homey bistro setting right in the heart of Newton Centre.

Customers filled every seat in the house on a Tuesday at 8 p.m., further proving the hype behind what has been labeled Newton’s best.

David Punch, Sycamore’s owner

and chef, opened the neighborhood favorite in 2012. With its sparkling reputation in Newton, customers might expect a formal atmosphere, but Punch created a friendly ambiance inside the upscale restaurant.

Dark bricks line the restaurant’s walls, creating a rustic and casual feel that complements the elegance of the black booths and chairs. The bar has a sleek look with light wooden shelves holding an assortment of colorful bottles. The dining room is tucked away behind a wall, making the dining experience feel more intimate.

The atmosphere is not the only aspect of Sycamore that is welcoming, as Executive Chef Simon Armen said that Punch has created a family-like

culture for his employees.

“David, the owner—and the owner of the other few restaurants—has become a really close friend and mentor of mine over the last eight years,” Armen said. “I’m closer with him than I am my own father in a lot of ways … and also I just got really close with the community of Newton and the people that come in here.”

Armen has cooked around the world. Before starting as executive chef, he served as the sous-chef at Sycamore for six years. He also has experience cooking in the Middle East and France.

The daily changes to the menu at Sycamore mean there will always be a unique range of options to choose from.

The roaste d caulif lower with green garlic tzatziki is a can’t-miss

starter. The tzatziki is outstanding a the strong presence of garlic and acidic tones giving the sauce a tang that perfectly complements the rich, caramelized cauliflower. The zatar, a spice mixture synonymous with Middle Eastern cooking, adds another layer of flavor to the dish that puts it over the top.

According to one waiter, the artichoke ravioli has been in high demand recently. The pasta lies on a bed of green garlic butter and is filled with ricotta salata and topped with pink peppercorn, dill, and fried artichokes. The chefs cook the ravioli flawlessly, giving the pasta a delightful bite. The sharpness of the cheese on top and the richness of the butter underneath complement the creamy, but slightly acidic, filling.

The restaurant’s European roots shine through in the porcini spaetzle.

Spaetzle is a small egg noodle essential to German cuisine. The crispy spaetzle pairs well with the earthy mushrooms and parsnips, while the tender asparagus adds a nice crunch and color to the plate. The jammy yolk of the poached egg adds creaminess

By Annie Li Heights Staff

ANNIE LI / HEIGHTS STAFF

A painting of a blue ramen bowl and orange octopus stretches across a wall in Little Big Diner’s inviting dining room. with crisp strips of nori, tender and smoky chashu pork, and a perfectly done ajitama egg, sipping broth from wooden spoons that look like soup ladles.

“I was actually very happy when I saw the spicy pickled cucumbers because that’s one of the side dishes that I eat a lot at home. I’ve been missing home, too, so I was like, ‘Oh my gosh, this is really nice,’” said Hannah Choi, LSEHD ’25, who is Korean

ANNIE LI / HEIGHTS STAFF

Little Big Diner’s ramen features fresh ingredients like nori and smoky chashu pork.

American.

Baishali Das, a diner enjoying a bowl of tan-tan ramen at the outdoor high top tables, said she was also happy with her meal.

“It’s good,” she said. “It’s spicy, and that’s what I like.”

Mygan said the tan-tan ramen is his favorite dish on the menu.

“It’s very thick and hearty,” he said. “It’s got the chili pork on it. It’s definitely more of a wintertime thing or late spring. I actually really liked eating the broth with rice rather than noodles a lot of the time.”

Mygan has worked with Little Big Diner for about 10 months, but he has 12 years of experience as a chef and a longtime love for food inspired by his grandmother.

“I love her food,” he said. “She came from Italy, from a big Italian family. I was always in the kitchen with her when I was younger.

I was like super eager to help but more eager to eat the food.”

In high school, Mygan found his first job cooking at a small country club.

“It was just kind of like a summer gig for me to make some money,” Mygan said.

“But I fell in love with the

to the dish and couples well with the smooth parsnip puree on top.

The menu is always changing to keep up with the demand of customers and the seasons.

“A lot of things I don’t change, and some things are really successful.”

Armen said. “So I’ll keep them on for a while, but the menu kind of changes basically day to day, and a lot of stuff is in based on amount of availability.”

One mainstay of the menu is the beignets.

The pillowy pockets of fried dough are wonderfully crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. The powdered sugar on top makes the beignets the perfect sweet treat without being overbearing.

The milk jam sauce—a browned, thick milk sauce—added a pleasant silkiness to the beignets without being too sweet.

Armen said that there are some things about Sycamore that he could never change because they are staples of the restaurant’s foundations.

“When I took over I didn’t want to make this a new restaurant, and I love working here,” he said. “I kind of tried to stay as true to it as I can.”

Sycamore is open at 755 Beacon Street from Tuesday through Saturday, from 4:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. n

PHOTOS BY NATALIE ARDNT / HEIGHTS EDITOR

Customers fill ever y seat in the house on a Tuesday night at 8 p.m.

LITTLE BIG DINER

Little Big Diner is a place where the hum of good energy and the conversation of satisfied diners lie just beneath the gentle sizzle of oil from the open kitchen. Soft clinks of silverware overtake the melody of upbeat music in the background.

Founded by David Punch in 2016, Little Big Diner is tucked along the tree-lined Centre Street in Newton Centre. A playful orange cartoon octopus graces the restaurant’s black-and-white facade, smiling above the groups of people that gather outside seven days a week, eager to be seated.

“People get on a waitlist to come and eat, and that speaks for itself, in my mind,” said Daniel Mygan, the executive chef at Little Big Diner. “People are willing to wait an hour outside or around the area to come in just to have a bowl.”

The restaurant has six tables, as well as counter seating that now acts as a takeout packing spot, according to Mygan. Little Big Diner’s small size belies its rich flavors and unbeatable sensory experience. The dining room is small, but not cramped, and the background noise would not overpower intimate conversation.

On a brisk April night, customers enjoyed steaming bowls of ramen filled

Food Guide 2022

kitchen scene—the adrenaline from it and the creativity you can have.”

After attending culinary school, he worked his way up through the restaurant industry before becoming the executive chef at Little Big Diner, where his responsibilities cover everything from putting out the occasional wayward flame to cooking up new menu items. He said that, soon, tan-tan ramen will not be on the menu, as he has a number of new recipes in the works.

Mygan has experimented with adding a dash of Asian-American fusion to a menu that already boasts a range of Japanese, Korean, Hawaiian, and Southeast Asian fare.

As an ode to the hotdogs and hamburgers popular at Fenway Park, the wagyu beef hotdog is topped with tonkatsu sauce, kewpie mayo, nori, and bonito flakes.

The search for something creative and delicious never comes at the expense of consistent quality, though, Mygan said.

“We do like 300 spicy miso bowls a week,” Mygan said. “Each one, I imagine,

is the same as the first one. To be able to have someone come in a couple of times a week and eat the same thing and still love it is huge for me.”

Central to Little Big Diner’s mission to deliver consistently good food is its commitment to using ethically sourced ingredients.

One of the restaurant’s business partners is Heiwa Tofu, a small, family-owned business based in Rockport, Maine. Heiwa’s handcrafted tofu is made with locally sourced, organic, non-GMO soybeans.

Other partnerships include Sun Noodles— which handmakes ramen noodles—Bell & Evans and Coleman Natural—both of which provide all-natural meats—and Red Gate Grocer, which offers cage-free eggs, according to the restaurant’s website.

“The food it produces is much—in my opinion—cleaner and tastier,” Mygan said.

“It feels good to do it. It is good to know that the ingredients we’re using are ethical, sustainable, local, and good.”

Mygan said he also takes pride in the minimal waste Little Big Diner produces.

He said extra and unused foods are usually put toward staff meals or given to staff members to bring home to their families.

Stepping into the cozy interior of Little Big Diner, a graffiti-style painting of a blue ramen bowl with the hallmark orange octopus on it greets customers.

It quickly becomes clear that food at Little Big Diner is a labor of love from start to finish, as shown by the kitchen’s attention to excellent texture and flavor, appreciation for a good meal, and care for community and environmental impact.

Mygan said his hopes for the diner and his work are simple.

“I just want people to enjoy their food and have a good time and leave beyond satisfied,” he said. “We’re so small, but I just guess I want the community to recognize us, support us, and come in and love the food.”

Little Big Diner at 1247 Centre Street is open seven days a week from 5 to 9:30 p.m. on Monday through Saturday and from 5 to 9 p.m. on Sundays. n

RESTAURANTS

ELLANA’S KITCHEN

By Victor Stefanescu Metro Editor

Ellana’s Kitchen & More in Newton Centre serves the kind of dishes someone might just remember for the rest of his or her life.

Whether it’s the empanadas or arepas at Ellana’s, every bite is a medley of flavors. Springy salsa balances crispy corn flour, and sweet plantains meet savory shreds of beef. The restaurant serves some of the best food out there, and it has the ratings to back it up.

In August, Yelp ranked Ellana’s as the second-best place in North America to get an arepa. Restaurants in California and Illinois dominated the list, yet the restaurant, Massachusetts’ only entry on the list, ranked second.

But behind Ellana’s tasty food and compassionate service, there is no one named Ellana. The name comes from a combination of the endings of the names of the two co-owners, Isabel Aoun and her husband Miguel Contessi, and their two daughters, according to the restaurant’s website.

Aoun said even through college, she always liked to cook. Aoun and her husband emigrated from Venezuela more than 20 years ago, and then after their kids grew older, they decided they wanted to do something new.

“The idea was spontaneously like, ‘Let’s do something like open a restaurant and make food, because that’s what I like to do,’” Aoun said.

Ellana’s, which opened in 2017, is

BUTTONWOOD

By Shruthi Sriram Heights Staff

With upbeat funk music playing in the background, an eclectic crowd fills the air with laughter and conversation at Buttonwood on a Wednesday night. A group of friends celebrates a promotion next to an old

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Food Guide 2022

TO AUBURNDALE GRAPHIC BY ANNIE CORRIGAN / HEIGHTS EDITOR

about to turn five years old in May. Many c u stomers a sk why the restaurant serves both Mediterranean and Venezuelan food, according to Aoun. The couple is from Venezuela, but Aoun’s parents are Lebanese and Contessi’s parents are Italian.

“I grew up with that food, both foods—Venezuelan and Mediterranean—and when we were thinking and doing something, we thought that would be kind of cool to have both cuisines together in a place,” Aoun said.

“People are amazed with that.”

For the first two years of business, Aoun found that the restaurant was many people’s first introduction to Venezuelan food. But after time, that changed.

“Now, it’s more like people know more about [Venezuelan] food, especially the arepa, the bread that we make,” she said.

Those arepas earn their praise.

An arepa is a cornmeal-based unleavened dough. At Ellana’s, customers can get arepas sandwiched around everything from black beans and queso blanco to chicken salad and avocado.

The restaurant’s co o k s a i d t h e a r e p a pabellón, stuffed with black beans, queso blanco, sweet plantains, and shredded beef or chicken, is really popular.

The arepas arrive straight from the grill, steaming hot in tin

foil pouches. The cook said the best way to eat them is right out of the foil.

The dough is fluffy while retaining just the right amount of crispiness from the flattop. The cheese melts into the beans, and the tender meat draws moisture from plantains, which balances the savory flavors. The mild or hot salsa served on the side adds a fresh, acidic punch to each bite.

At Ellana’s, just one arepa—all variations priced under $9—is enough to fill a stomach. The empanadas, almost the size of a palm, are also filling.

The chicken empanada is generously stuffed. With every bite, the crispy outer layer formed by the fried cornmeal makes way for a soft, flavor-packed filling. The chicken has the perfect amount of seasoning.

The restaurant serves four other types of empanadas—beef, cheese, whitefish, and

domino, or bean and cheese. All the empanadas and arepas on the menu are gluten free.

The restaurant also serves a variety of other Venezuelan and Mediterranean dishes. Aoun’s favorite is the cachapa.

“Cachapa is like a pancake made out of corn,” she said. “And then we fresh, hand-make white cheese. “ On the Mediterranean side of the menu, Ellana’s serves pita wraps, falafel, and chicken shawarma. Those items contrast with the Venezuelan ones on the bright chalkboard menu plastered above the register.

The interior of Ellana’s feels comfortable. It is set up like a deli, with a chilled display case displaying menu items and a ’90s-style register positioned adjacent to the case.

The grill sits behind the display

Hot Salsa

GRAPHIC BY ANNIE CORRIGAN / HEIGHTS EDITOR

couple asking a waiter about the unique shot glasses that their digestifs came in. General manager Matt O’Keefe has worked at the restaurant for the past four years and said Wednesday’s scene is typical.

“People can have a good dinner, whether they want to celebrate the anniversary, come in with their kids, or just come in and have a beer and watch the Celtics game,” O’Keefe said. “We’re trying to kind of hit on all those levels.”

GRAPHIC BY ANNIE CORRIGAN / HEIGHTS EDITOR

Buttonwood is located in Newton Highlands and serves rustic American food. With seasonally changing dishes sprinkled in with a few long-standing classics, the restaurant is unique in the bold dishes it serves to its customers.

O’Keefe said one of the restaurant’s biggest goals is to build community with the customers through its food.

“Our number one focus is getting to know our guests and create regulars,” said O’Keefe. “I think some restaurants just view it as maybe a transaction, but we’re trying to create relationships and instill a sense of community.”

In 2018, the restaurant experienced a damaging electrical fire. While no one was hurt, the business was forced to shut down for 10 months as a result of the fire. O’Keefe still remembers rushing down to the restaurant after getting the phone call informing him about the fire.

“I was dropping my daughter off at school and got a call that the restaurant was on fire,” O’Keefe said. “I remember the fire department said we will be closed for two weeks, and nobody could believe it. It ended up being 10 months to the day.”

Buttonwood had only been open for four

and a half months and was just finding its rhythm when the fire hit. The fire changed the sense of community both among the restaurant’s staff and within Newton, as the staff members felt they lost everything they had worked so hard for. O’Keefe had been working at Buttonwood for 28 straight days before the fire.

“It was just kind of a bummer because we had really hit our stride right when the fire hit,” O’Keefe said. “We had some really positive reviews in the Globe and received proper Bostonian media coverage. We were really starting to find our footing, and we were operating at a momentum that we didn’t have when we first opened, so we lost all that momentum.”

Since then, Buttonwood has been rebuilding by reorienting itself with the community-first philosophy it was founded on. Walking into the restaurant, kind servers with smiling faces immediately greet customers.

One customer, Teddy Gillman, was visiting Newton with his grandma when he visited the restaurant for the first time. He said the restaurant’s atmosphere welcomed him in. “[The crowd] sort of ebbed and flowed.

FOUR SPOONS

By Sahithi Thumuluri Heights Staff

Nestled among a number of other storefronts in Newton Centre, Four Spoons may not catch every passerby’s eye, but its flavorful Thai food and unique character are hard to miss.

Past a simple beige exterior is an entirely different world. Red lanterns dot the ceiling, casting a soft glow on families seated in maroon booths. Even when the restaurant isn’t bustling with patrons, the sound of trickling water harmonizing with a soothing flute melody creates an inviting environment for conversation.

“It’s a great place to just go and eat some good food and talk,” said Becca Petras, LSEHD ’25, who had visited the spot while on a date.

Four Spoons boasts an extensive menu of Thai dishes that fits all appetites. All meals offer vegetarian and allergen-friendly options and come in

box, letting customers smell their food getting cooked. They can sit at a brightly lit hightop against the street-facing window or tables scattered across the cozy dining room.

Aoun said the pandemic hit Ellana’s very hard. Support from the City of Newton helped the restaurant persevere, she said. “[The city] ordered food for the hospitals and for people in need,” Aoun said. “So that way, they … help the people and help the small businesses [and] restaurants. That was a big help for us.”

Ellana’s serves breakfast and lunch.

The restaurant is open at 19 Pelham Street Wednesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. n

SAHITHI THUMULURI / HEIGHTS STAFF

Red lanterns dot the ceiling and cast a soft glow on customers perusing their menus in the Four Spoons dining room. four heat levels ranging from mild to very spicy.

“As much as we wanted to share true Thai culture and food, we also think it [is] important to make ourselves accessible to our customers in every way we can,” said part-owner Apriak Chuenprapa. “For us, that is achieved through balance.”

The restaurant’s vegetable crispy

spring rolls, an Asian culinary classic, are baked to a perfect golden-brown color. The outer shell crackles to reveal a balanced blend of cabbage, carrot, celery, mushrooms, and bean thread noodles. Four Spoons adds its own twist to the classic, serving the appetizer with a sweet, delectable plum sauce.

Four Spoons’ pad thai treats customers with traditional stir-fried rice noo-

dles, chicken and shrimp, bean sprouts, chives, egg, peanut, and paprika. It is the chef ’s special sauce, however, that sets the meal apart as sweeter, thicker, and richer than typical pad thai.

The sizzling sound of the stir-fry precedes the dish itself, bringing bursts of flavor to each bite. Customers may choose tofu, chicken, seafood, beef, or duck to accompany the assortment of

… It was lively,” Gillman said.

The current seasonal menu features a selection of salads and starter plates and various cuts of meat.

The Pizza Shop Greek salad features romaine, feta, and olives, with a splash of color from fresh radishes. Yet the seemingly typical salad’s exterior deceives the eyes, as the exceptionally strong balsamic and rosemary and paprika seasonings light up the taste buds, giving the dish a hearty feel.

The fries with garlic aioli were on the soft side but maintained the restaurant’s typical bold flavor. While the fries were lightly seasoned, the aioli provided the richness the fries needed.

Customers at the restaurant—both young and old, new and regular—spoke highly about the food. Nine-year-old Elliot lives in Newton and occasionally comes to Buttonwood for dinner with his mom after school. He ordered the cauliflower, featuring molito rojo, crema, and toasted sesame.

“It was tasty, a little spicy, but really unique,” said Elliott. “I wish we came here more!”

Buttonwood is open at 51 Lincoln Street Tuesday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays from 5 p.m.

vegetables. The dish is best paired with a side of rice ordered separately.

From the artistry in its food presentation to the attentiveness of the waitstaff, it is clear that Four Spoons cares deeply about its patrons.Residents of Asian descent make up 15.2 percent of Newton’s population, making it the city’s second largest demographic, according to the U.S. Census Bureau. The owners of the restaurant have a vision for embracing this growing population.

“Customers have shared how important it is that we spread our Thai culture and represent the culture of our customers and community, especially during the recent rise in Asian-American hate during COVID-19,” Chuenprapa said.

Chuenprapa said that, to the owners, the restaurant’s popularity meant more than its success as a business venture.

“It meant that, as much negativity was in the air, Newton is still embracing and supporting our culture,” he said.

Four Spoons is open at 796 Beacon Street, Monday through Saturday from 11am to 9pm, and Sunday from 12pm to 9pm. n

PUTTING NEWTON ON THE MAP

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BOCCA BELLA: ITALIAN COMFORT

By MC Claverie Assoc. Magazine Editor The City of Boston is famous for its many Italian restaurants that line the streets of the North End. But Bocca Bella Cafe & Bistro, situated on a cozy corner in Auburndale, is a small but homey Italian restaurant that gives even the best of the area some competition.

For almost 12 years, the family-owned spot has served up classic Italian dishes such as cacio e pepe, chicken parmesan, and veal marsala to Newton residents, making it a favorite spot for locals in the area.

For Newton residents Greg Gailius, BC ’77, and Loretta Gailius, stopping

by Bocca Bella is a part of their weekly routine.

The couple said they have been coming to the restaurant since it first opened and often come two or three times a week. Over the years, the Gailiuses said that they have made a lot of friends with Bocca Bella’s other regulars, as well as the owners of the restaurant.

“Now the owner and his wife are part of our family,” Loretta Gailius said.

Family is an integral part of Bocca Bella, according to Anthony Vega, its owner.

A native New Yorker with Puerto Rican roots, Vega left his job running a nightclub in Brooklyn, N.Y. to start Bocca Bella after deciding that he could run a restaurant on his own, he said. Vega’s father-in-law, Mario Boccabella, a native of Abruzzo, Italy, and

By Ashley Emanuel Heights Staff Through its 20-year history and persevering through the pandemic, Tartufo Restaurant—a two-story operation in Newton Centre painted an inviting yellow color— has

served the community when it needed it most.

Tartufo, a fine-dining Italian restaurant, features authentic cuisine from the Abruzzo region of the Italian coast. This unique cuisine, which features plenty of seafood, sets it apart from other Italian restaurants, according to co-owner Ted Mountzuris, who also runs the operations of the restaurant.

“It’s not your basic lasagna and chicken parm kind of place, although we do offer that,” Mountzuris said.

The restaurant, which opened in the spring of 2004, has stayed in the same location for nearly two decades.

Its long-standing presence in the community makes the restaurant stand out, according to Mountzuris.

He added that the restaurant’s location—much more convenient for Newtonians than traveling all the way to Boston’s North End—is another bonus, allowing the eatery to provide quality Italian cuisine in a local setting.

The name Tartufo is based on a rare truffle mushroom only found in the Abruzzo region of Italy, Mountzuris said. From the veal chop to pappardelle al tartufo to various seafood options, the restaurant uses the truffle in many of its dishes.

One of the business’ original partners was from the region but is no

Vega’s wife also work at the restaurant.

Boccabella is both the chef and namesake of the restaurant.

The sense of family is immediately present when you walk into the restaurant.

Customers step into what feels like an Italian grandmother’s kitchen when they walk into Bocca Bella. The restaurant’s red brick walls and wooden bar create an intimate and inviting atmosphere.

String lights hang from the outside awning onto the outdoor dining area, giving the restaurant a whimsical feeling. The scents of fresh pasta cooking and chicken frying overwhelm the senses.

Bocca Bella's flavorful dishes elevate the warm and comfortable feeling of the restaurant. Bocca Bella is open for both lunch and dinner and is priced affordably with all entrees under $30.

A selection of Italian appetizers, including toasted ravioli, provide the perfect precursor to any meal. The warm, cheesy, breaded ravioli served with a side of marinara sauce invokes the classic crunchy and cheesy flavor combo of the dish, bringing a piece of Italy to Newton.

Both the chicken parmesan and ravioli alla vodka rivaled those of the North End. The restaurant sized the chicken parmesan generously with three pieces of chicken—enough to take home to enjoy the next day. Gooey mozzarella cheese and marinara sauce are slathered on top of the chicken.

The marinara sauce is both sweet and longer affiliated with Tartufo, according to Mountzuris. The restaurant often hires chefs from Abruzzo in order to embrace the cuisine and the tradition, Mountzuris said.

Mountzuris and his wife, Anna Mountzuris, are co-owners of the restaurant, as well as a few other

restaur a nt s i n the area.

While they are from Newburyport, not Newton, Mountzuris still emphasized the importance of the restaurant’s location and its proximity to Boston College.

Mountzuris said the restaurant— only a 20 minute walk from Upper Campus—is especially convenient for BC students.

When dining, guests have two different seating options .

The upstairs of the restaur a nt i s more elegant, featuring

acidic, complementing the salty, juicy chicken.

Although this dish is typically served with penne, the ravioli alla vodka is elevated by the contrast between the soft ravioli and creamy, pink vodka sauce which transforms this classic dish into something new and more sophisticated.

Though desserts are not listed on the menu, Bocca Bella also offers several different types of desserts, all of which are homemade.

Customers can peruse the various desserts in a glass display case and deliberate over which treats might satisfy their sweet tooth or ask the owners for recommendations.

Bocca Bella serves a triple chocolate mousse, a limoncello mascarpone cake, and tiramisu. For chocolate lovers, the luscious chocolate mousse is divine, with layers of dark, milk, and white chocolate that melt in your mouth.

For those who enjoy fruit-filled desserts, the limoncello mascarpone cake’s light, whipped filling layered between fluffy layers is sweet but maintains the slightly sour, lemony flavor of the limoncello liqueur.

The tiramisu rivals those in Italy.

Some tiramisu lacks a bold enough coffee flavor, but Bocca Bella’s has a strong coffee flavor that does not overpower the mascarpone or chocolate.

Aside from the standard dishes that remain consistent on Bocca Bella’s menu, Vega said that a few dishes on the menu change nightly.

“If you come to us enough times, they kind of rotate … but for the most part, we do try to do as best we can to change [the menu], especially seasonally,” Vega said.

Auburndale residents Sian and John Hastewell, who are originally from the United Kingdom and moved to Massachusetts 20 years ago, were first drawn to Bocca Bella because it is within walking distance of their home.

They said that they often drop in two times a week to grab a drink and a dessert or to try one of the seasonal dishes.

“What we actually like is the variety,” John Hastewell said. “It’s different.

The menu changes. You can come here and get a different meal every time, so chandeliers and large windows accented by golden drapes.

In the newly renovated downstairs portion of the restaurant, customers can sit at an expansive bar or at elegant tables featuring white table cloths, folded napkins, and wine bottles. Mirrors on the walls make the dining room seem bigger and more modern.

“We’ve had customers that have been coming here for the past 18 years, and they noticed the change and said, ‘Wow, it looks like I am walking into a totally different restaurant,’” Mountzuris said.

“It’s kind of cool that we were able to upgrade the downstairs but yet still keep that elegant, fancy upstairs look, too.”

Guests can enjoy warm rolls of bread while browsing the menu, and a quiet ambiance fosters conversation.

Two old friends enjoyed a meal at the bar before going to a Celtics playoff game on a Wednesday night. Leo Power, a Chestnut Hill resident and BC ’89, and Bill Heard, a resident of the nearby Needham, are regular customers, and they said Tartufo’s food and atmosphere keep them coming back.

“We rotate around, but I like to mix it up and try the seafood and chicken parm and risotto,” Power said. “I love that they have so many great dishes that I always have trouble trying to decide what I want.”

The classic chicken parm comes in a large portion

Food Guide 2022

MC CLAVERIE / HEIGHTS EDITOR

For 12 years, the family-owned spot has been a favorite among locals in the area. it's great.”

While the tasty food and welcoming atmosphere are reason enough to come back to Bocca Bella, the service and staff have regulars spending their nights at the restaurant.

“This is the Cheers of Auburndale,” Vega said. “Everyone knows everyone on a Friday or Saturday night. We do get people from all over the place, but for the weekdays, everyone knows each other.”

Vega also said that his connection with his customers makes them want to come back to Bocca Bella over and over again.

Over the years, Vega has gotten to know many of his regulars on a personal level and said that he even invited a few of them to his wedding.

“You got to make yourself feel like the rest of them,” Vega said. “Being a

mom-and-pop shop, you know people, you know your customers. A few of my customers actually got invited to my wedding—that’s how close they are.”

Vega said community is at the heart of Bocca Bella, and that sense of community sets it apart from other corporate restaurants.

“Community … they are the backbone of this restaurant,” Vega said.

“Without the community, Bocca Bella wouldn't be here, especially after the last two years. So in that sense, I always give back, whether it be for a PTO fundraiser, whatever, whichever school comes in here, whether it be a college, elementary school, high school, Bocca Bella is always giving. I think that every business should do the same.”

Bocca Bella is open at 442 Lexington Street Monday-Saturday, from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. n

TARTUFO: TASTING ABRUZZO IN NEWTON CENTRE and includes rigatoni pasta covered in tomato-basil sauce. The chicken is perfectly crunchy on the outside, and the sauce and cheese combination melts in the mouth.

The portion is big enough to have some leftover food to take home and enjoy the next day.

Though the interior of the restaurant was closed during the peak months of the COVID-19 pandemic, Tartufo adapted and provided take-out options. Consistent customers continued to enjoy their favorite

food from Tartufo and also brought in a new customer base, according to Mountzuris.

Without changing its food options, the restaurant lowered its prices during the COVID-19 pandemic, Mountzuris said.

This flexibility and commitment to community allowed for the restaurant to not only survive but thrive as the pandemic has subsided.

Tartufo is open at 22 Union Street Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., as well as Sunday from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. n ASHLEY EMANUEL / HEIGHTS STAFF

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The Heights

Food Guide 2022

The Knotty Pine: an Auburndale Fixture Since 1987

By Margaret Doheny Heights Staff The Knotty Pine has served classic American breakfasts and lunches to Newton residents since 1987, and the welcoming atmosphere, friendly staff, and delicious home fries keep local Newton residents coming back daily.

The diner’s staff takes pride in the fact that it is a quality casual eatery where customers can share a great meal and get to know those who work in the restaurant and the other patrons.

Customers of all ages indulge in delicious food and outstanding service on any given morning at the Auburndale breakfast and lunch spot.

Before it was The Knotty Pine, the building housed a different local restaurant since 1915, serving as a staple of the Auburndale and Newton communities.

Nick Kourtis, part-owner and cook at The Knotty Pine for the past 27 years, said that he has always been passionate about the restaurant business, but building relationships with those he is cooking for keeps him at the diner.

“The clientele work with everyone,” he said. “It’s a family atmosphere. I

think that’s the best part—it doesn’t feel like work sometimes. … You don’t get that at a lot of other places.”

Newton resident Kevin McNamara, one customer sitting at the counter, owns a beauty shop down the street from The Knotty Pine and comes in twice a day for breakfast and lunch.

Having grown up in Newton, he has been a regular at the location since the 1970s.

McNamara knows everyone who works at The Knotty Pine and said the friendly faces are what keep him coming back every day. “[The restaurant] is friendly [and] full of life,” McNamara said. “It’s a breath of fresh air away from all the silliness of life.”

McNamara was eager to talk about the restaurant, as he came in alone and likes to get to know the other diners at the restaurant, asking them questions about school and life.

The food ties the community environment together at The Knotty Pine.

With a griddle in eyesight from the moment they walk in, customers receive a hot, classic American breakfast quickly and with great service.

The Knotty Pine ser ves all the

O’HARA’S FOOD & SPIRITS

By Caitlin Clary Heights Staff O’Hara’s Food & Spirits, a family-run business since the ’80s, infuses Newton Highlands with Irish-American flavor and friendly service.

Patrick O’Hara, the owner of O’Hara’s Food & Spirits as well as its sister location Paddy’s Public House, said that O’Hara’s is rooted in family. O’Hara’s father opened the restaurant in 1985, and now, O’Hara runs the restaurant along with his uncle and mother.

O’Hara said running a business with his family provides flexibility.

“With [family-owned restaurants], you get to run things a little bit differently,” he said. “You’re working side by side with people that are friends and family. Obviously, you treat them differently—better than other places would.

You can see that in how long people choose to stay with us.”

The menu is expansive without being overwhelming, offering something for everyone’s personal tastes. The restaurant offers family-friendly meals as well as vegetarian, pescatarian, and gluten-free options.

One of O’Hara’s best starters is its fried pickles, a southern staple that blends seamlessly into the restaurant’s pub-style menu. The pickles are crunchy, tangy, and perfectly sour. The fried outer shell is wonderfully warm and just as crunchy. The pickles are paired with fried banana peppers and red peppers as well as Thousand Island dressing for dipping. The pickles are perfect for enjoying with friends, sharing on a date, or just savoring solo.

Another excellent dish O’Hara’s offers is its chicken pot pie, which comes in a bread bowl with aside of cranberry sauce. The pot pie has a thick and creamy consistency and plenty of vegetables inside. The bread bowl is crispy and warm and offers a nice twist on this classic dish. Dipping pieces of the bread bowl in the pot pie filling is another way to enjoy this meal.

Patrons planning to visit O’Hara’s can look forward to a welcoming atmosphere in addition to the restaurant’s

tasty food. Walking into the restaurant, diners face a sprawling full bar with sports playing on TVs. Emerald green booths divided by plexiglass and smaller tables line an adjacent room. The size of the restaurant gives it a homey feeling without being cramped.

Antique photographs hang from the walls of the restaurant, creating an atmosphere that feels familiar and friendly. Other antique fixtures such as lamps, tables, and stained-glass windows are an excellent touch for atmosphere-oriented diners. The combination of dark-wooden furniture and emerald green decor reminds patrons of the restaurant’s Irish roots as well.

O’Hara’s servers are friendly and conversational, as well as timely. They check in with diners frequently and with a smile. The restaurant strives to maintain friendly relationships with customers and staff, according to O’Hara. He said one of the biggest things keeping people coming back is the restaurant’s reliability—not just its good food.

“I think what keeps folks coming back is the consistent, high-quality products and that ‘something’ people can rely on,” he said. “People know that when they order something, it’ll taste just the same as the last time they got it.”

O’Hara said that many customers have their personal favorites such as the restaurant’s pizza, burgers, and seafood options.

The restaurant had to switch to takeout-only at the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic and is still working to accommodate changes from the pandemic, according to O’Hara.

“As we gradually opened up further, we had to put up plexiglass and enforce distancing,” O’Hara said. “There were a lot of different hurdles to go through in order to stay open.”

O’Hara’s is located at 1185 Walnut St. The restaurant is open Monday through Wednesday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Thursday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., and Sundays from 11:00 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. n CAITLIN CLARY / HEIGHTS STAFF GRAPHIC BY LIZ SCHWAB / HEIGHTS EDITOR

classics—from wraps and breakfast sandwiches to omelets and eggs benedict—all at an affordable price of under $13, according to its website. The diner even serves chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry milkshakes.

The mushroom and spinach scramble came piping hot off the griddle filled with perfectly cooked vegetables and served with a side of home fries cooked to a perfect golden crisp. McNamara, Kourtis, and a waiter at the diner all said that the home fries are their personal favorites. Two freshly toasted slices of bread and a hot cup of coffee paired with the dish perfectly to create a classic breakfast.

Other menu favorites include The Knotty Pine omelet with crispy bacon, tomatoes, and cheese, as well as blueberry pancakes and a turkey BLT that McNamara described as “to die for.”

Ella Reid, a waitress at The Knotty Pine and a Newton resident, said getting to know the frequent patrons of the diner makes the experience special.

“Getting to know the regulars, there is something so different from a corporate, Starbucks-like job,” she said.

“It’s not just a job. It’s a community experience.”

Reid grew up visiting the restaurant with her mother. One summer, she called looking for a job in what she described as a “very friendly process.”

The management asked for her availability, and she had her first shift a few days later.

After working at The Knotty Pine for a year now, Reid said the staff creates a special experience for customers.

When customers dine there, the staff treats them like family.

The diner is seat yourself–style, but

an employee greets each customer with a friendly smile.

“They come in and can sit for hours,” Reid said of the diner’s regular customers. “The cook knows their name, and they don’t have to put in their order. It’s very down to earth and friendly.”

The Knotty Pine accepts cash only.

The diner is open at 295 Auburn Street Monday through Friday from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m., as well as Saturday and Sunday from 6 a.m. to 1 p.m. n

MARGARET DOHENY / HEIGHTS STAFF

The restaurant has served American breakfast and lunch to locals since 1987.

TOMMY DOYLE’S DUNNGAHERIN’S PUB

By John Scrimgeour Heights Staff Tucked away in the hills of Newton Upper Falls on a quiet street, Irish pub Dunn-Gaherin’s is an unsuspecting place, but it’s one that visitors are unlikely to forget.

Comfort food, beer, and the warm environment keep the locals of the Newton, Wellesley, and Needham communities coming back.

“Everyone there was lovely,” said Grace Dennis, MCAS ’23. “I felt at home.”

Dennis, still in college, is younger than most of the regular crowd at Dunn-Gaherin’s. A typical Friday at Dunn-Gaherin’s starts with a wave of local teachers who come in after school.

Around 5 p.m., as businesses start to close for the day, professionals coming off their shifts will stop in. The dinner waves arrive next, followed by the latenight drinkers who hang out at the bar right up until it closes at 10 p.m.

Those looking for more than a pale ale can browse the menu and sit in the back half of the restaurant, which is illuminated with dim lamps and string lights and surrounded by walls lined with old photos and newspaper clippings. In traditional Irish pub fashion, tables are small and packed closely together.

In recent years, Dunn-Gaherin’s has expanded its seating options with an outdoor patio area in the back of the restaurant.

The 10-count chicken buffalo wing appetizer is a common order to start a meal, though the restaurant also offers more unique flavors such as “cajun fire” and garlic parmesan. The right balance between crispiness and sauce is hard to come by in the world of chicken wings, but Dunn-Gaherin’s may have found it.

“I’m not a huge wing fan, but I really enjoyed their wings,” Dennis said. “I would eat them again.”

The caesar salad is incredibly large,

fresh, and well dressed.

Specials range from sirloin steaks to seafood stews to shepherd’s pie, but the angus beef burger is a staple at Dunn-Gaherin’s. The restaurant offers a variety of sides to complement their burger, including eggplant fries and sweet potatoes.

The bar offers a colorful array of lagers, pale ales, and stouts on draft, as well as a wide selection of liquors.

The restaurant has built a list of simple cocktails over the years, with many drinks taking the names of the regular customers who frequently order them.

Co-owners Seana Gaherin and Robert Dunn opened the restaurant in 1991, and both are still almost always in the restaurant, greeting new guests and old ones alike with the same enthusiasm they had 31 years ago.

The pub uses the phrase a “balance between old and new” to describe itself on its website, and that mantra holds true inside. The bar area is dim, but flatscreen TVs airing the Boston Celtics game light up the walls.

Those not engaged in conversation focused intently on the Celtics, occasionally cheering aloud when they scored.

While there’s no such thing as a quiet weekend at Dunn-Gaherin’s, the week of St. Patrick’s Day is by far the busiest time of year for the Irish pub.

Gaherin and Dunn typically host Newton’s political breakfast roast, during which politicians and emcees take the mic and poke fun at each other.

The pub’s cozy, light-hearted environment makes it a perfect place for all people—even politicians—to let down their guard and remember that life isn’t always that serious.

Dunn Gaherin’s Pub is located at 344 Elliot St. in Newton Upper Falls.

The restaurant is open Tuesday and Wednesday from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. and Thursday through Saturday from 3:30 p.m. until 10 p.m. n JOHN SCRIMGEOUR / HEIGHTS STAFF

By Stephen Bradley Magazine Editor

Walking into Tommy Doyle’s has a twofold effect on any customer.

The quaint Irish pub’s atmosphere transports patrons from Newton’s Watertown Street to the cobblestone roads of Dublin.

But at the same time, the restaurant’s American flair ties customers to the Greater Boston area’s roots. “[The atmosphere is] excellent,” Newton resident Susan Delicata said. “Very good.

Good people. It’s just a nice place to come and meet people.”

Irish relics, vintage alcohol ads, and pictures of Irish cottages with thatched roofs blanket the walls. Guinness and Jameson signs surround customers from any seat in the pub.

Delicata said she and her husband, Dennis Delicata, have frequented Tommy Doyle’s for several years. The restaurant’s food and atmosphere are what continue to make them loyal returners, Dennis Delicata said.

“The atmosphere, the food, great people … [make it] a great spot,” he said.

The restaurant’s welcoming feel isn’t limited to the atmosphere—it’s included in its menu. From traditional Irish dishes like shepherd’s pie to classic American burgers to Thai lettuce wraps, the menu caters to anyone’s taste.

The corned beef reuben sandwich perfectly combines the pub’s Irish heritage with the sandwich’s American origins. Creating a perfect contrast between a crispy exterior and softer interior, the lightly toasted slices of bread tightly encapsulate the inner layers.

Though the sandwich packs in plenty of corned beef, the sauerkraut is the star of the show, providing a sharper flavor amid the more muted ingredients.

Dennis Delicata said the pub brings Newton together, as its warm atmosphere creates the perfect place to meet new people.

“I think they bring the community together,” he said. “[Newton] has a lot of history as far as Irish and Italian descent. It’s just a really good spot to meet [people]. And I think they bring that ambience. … They bring [the community] together.”

Tommy Doyle’s at 349 Watertown St. is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. n STEPHEN BRADLEY / HEIGHTS EDITOR

The Heights

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Food Guide 2022

MORE FROM NEWTON

MOLDOVA

By Caitlin Clary Heights Staff

Located on bustling Watertown Street in Nonantum Village, Moldova Restaurant merges classic Eastern European comfort food and a chic environment to create a unique experience for customers.

Moldova’s location in the city of Newton is prime, with small businesses dotted up and down the block.

The restaurant’s interior is bright,

CAFE MARTIN

By Margaret Doheny Heights Staff

Adrienne Martin opened Cafe Martin less than a month ago to honor her husband John Martin, a former NESN videographer who died from amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS) three and a half years ago.

For 20 years, John Martin served as the sports voice of the community, covering everything from the Red Sox to

COCO RAMEN

By Victor Stefanescu Metro Editor

Coco Ramen, a Newton Centre restaurant that opened in September, brings Japanese cuisine and a homely atmosphere to a neighborhood with few competitors. For Mukesh Gupta, a customer at the restaurant on a rainy November night, the food let his family explore a new cuisine, he said.

“We just wanted to try the ramen noodles,” Gupta said. “You know, we never tried it before. We like a lot of Thai

spacious, and welcoming. The dark wooden furniture and rustic bar complement the modern art on the walls and stringed lights to create an atmosphere that is both modern and homey. Moldovan folk songs sung in Romanian and Ukrainian provide pleasant background music for the restaurant’s customers.

The menu is true to the restaurant’s name, only offering authentic Moldovan dishes.

Its coltunasi would satisfy anyone.

Customers can select their dumplings with their choice of cheese, pork, or potato filling. The goat cheese filling is

creamy and tart, wrapped in soft dumpling dough to create a smooth texture.

These dumplings are an easy dish for those new to Eastern European cuisine to fall in love with.

Moldova’s kebab de miel entree is packed with flavor. The dish consists of juicy lamb kebabs with pan-fried potatoes. The kebab de miel comes with marinated red onion, pickles, and housemade hot sauce.

Moldova’s hot sauce adds a kick to the potatoes, which are crispy and crunchy without overpowering the whole entree. n

WARD 4

By Francesca Giangiulio Heights Staff

FRANCESCA GIANGIULIO / HEIGHTS STAFF

the Bruins. After John Martin received his diagnosis, Newton and the region’s sports community built a system to support his family.

When people came to the Martins’ home to catch up and eat, they started calling the house “Cafe Martin.” Adrienne Martin said they even made shirts and koozies with the name on them.

Cafe Martin came about as a reflection of Adrienne and John Martin’s joy from those experiences. In creating Cafe Martin, Adrienne Martin said she looked to give back to the community.

Here are some of the articles you missed. Find more at bcheights.com/food/.

On the western outskirts of Newton, Auburndale is the part of the suburbs that’s just shy of being considered “the country,” exemplified by the over 250 acres of preserved wildlife refuge across the Charles River from the town, marking the town’s border.

The small, sleepy town hasn’t changed much since Walter Devine and Chris Noble, Ward 4’s owners, grew up there, with the same small mom-and-pop gro-

CAITLIN CLARY / HEIGHTS STAFF

cery markets and hairdressers lining the streets for decades. Devine and Noble lived their whole lives in the tight-knit community.

They love the small-town life, according to Peel, but always lamented the fact that their Auburndale family never had a gathering place to celebrate the community’s closeness. This longing sparked their long-term dream of opening a restaurant to give back to the town they loved so much.

Ward 4’s high ceilings, dark wood floors, dusky stone bar top, and oversized, plush leather booths give the restaurant a warm, homey, and comfort-

The dream had been in the works for three and a half years since John Martin died. Adrienne Martin has decades of experience in the Boston restaurant business but was waiting for the right opportunity to open Cafe Martin.

The location of Cafe Martin at 7 West Street is important to Adrienne Martin.

When she heard that the building became available last year, she took the opportunity right away.

The restaurant has cheerful energy.

Customers can enjoy classic bar foods such as nachos and burgers. n

JOHNNY’S

By Julia Kiersznowski Projects Editor

ANEESA WERMERS / HEIGHTS STAFF

On any given day, Johnny’s Luncheonette could have Boston College students slurping on milkshakes, an old married couple splitting the famous matzo ball soup, or a Newton resident reading a book by themselves while feasting on a burger. Owner Karen Masterson says that’s what makes Johnny’s such a great place to be.

For Karen, owning Johnny’s has never just been a business endeavor. When

food and all you know, but we never tried any kind of Japanese cuisine. I wanted to introduce the kids to some kind of a different cuisine as well.”

The restaurant, located on Beacon Street and wedged between Sycamore Street and SushiCo, is a hole-in-the-wall place. Red lanterns hang from the ceiling, and a Japanese mural blankets one of the walls. Five or six tables are packed tightly in the small dining room. The restaurant gives customers fun plastic ladles to dig into the large ramen servings.

The menu is down to earth as well.

Just a front and a back, the restaurant advertises only six ramens ranging from

$12.50 to $14.50 before any add-ons.

The restaurant serves three appetizers: a pork bun, fried oysters, and Japanese deep fried chicken, all priced under $7.

The spicy miso ramen, a trademark bowl at restaurants throughout the Boston area, tasted more balanced than others.

Fresh bean sprouts, wood ear mushroom, and bamboo shoots counter tongue-numbing chili spice. Luckily, the spice is not too intense, and customers can easily gobble up the whole bowl.

One customer had the clear shoyu ramen and said he enjoyed it. The ramen showcases a lighter broth. n

ing feel. It’s the kind of atmosphere that makes you lose track of time.

Only when the sun sets, sending a hazy orange glow through the floorto-ceiling front windows and the many skylights across the restaurant, will you realize you’ve been at your table for two hours. It’s the perfect place to catch up with friends and enjoy fresh, madefrom-scratch food and artisan cocktails.

Everything on the Ward 4 menu is under $30, with some items—like individual tacos—listed for just $5.

The restaurant serves everything from Boston classics like fish and chips, to a variety of vegan options. n

MARGARET DOHENY / HEIGHTS STAFF

she and her husband Kevin purchased Johnny’s in 2014, they knew they had a unique opportunity to foster a haven of community for the greater Boston area.

She always knew she wanted Johnny’s to be a place where anyone and everyone is welcome.

Johnny’s was opened in 1993, though the space has a long history in Newton before that—Johnny’s used to be Langley’s Deli, which was open for 30 years until John Furst and Neil Solomon bought it and transformed it into Johnny’s.

In the summer of 1997, Karen and her husband decided to leave Canada and

come to the United States. They settled in Sherborn, Mass., where they decided to raise their kids. The two opened Big Fresh Cafe in 2003, which was the first fast-casual farm-to-table restaurant in the region, and owned Nourish in Lexington from 2009 to 2014. But when a restaurant broker approached them with an offer for them to buy Johnny’s, Karen said there were many signs that they should take the opportunity and run with it.

At Johnny’s, getting to know the customers is a regular occurrence for Karen—Johnny’s has more regulars than any restaurant she’s owned. n

VICTOR STEFANESCU / HEIGHTS EDITOR