5 minute read
Sand dunes and salty air
Sand dunes and
SALTY AIR
Go for the yearlings, but stay for the food, the wine and the spectacular views. Lizzy Sainty marks your Osarus card
La Co(o)rniche
Osarus Sales celebrated its tenth anniversary in 2018 and, since its inauguration, the September Yearling Sale has become a firm fixture on the calendar. It takes place at the picturesque racecourse of La Teste-de-Buch, which is situated a couple of kilometers outside the town.
Surrounded by pine trees, La Teste-de-Buch is the largest of the towns on the south side of one of France’s hidden pearls – the Bassin d’Arcachon, one of France’s most famous oystercatching bays. Less than an hour’s drive from Bordeaux, La Teste is the largest of the towns on the bay, with the beautiful coastal villages of Arcachon and Pyla-sur-Mer next door.
A few minutes’ drive past Pyla, or for the more energetic, a cycle down the pine-scented tracks, leads to one of France’s great natural wonders; the Pilat dune. A steep climb up the wooden steps set into the side of the dune is rewarded by a spectacular view of the Banc d’Arguin, a constantly shifting sand bank, the Ilê aux Oiseaux and across the bay to Cap Ferret, with small and colourful boats of the oyster farmers tending to their stock on the still waters. Once back down (take the steps again – the dune is protected, and coming down the sand is frowned upon), you can take a boat trip across the bay to see the oyster farms up close, and spot wildlife on the Ilê aux Oiseaux – although there is no possibility of landing on this protected nature reserve.
A number of chic bars and restaurants cater to the year-round visits from the French gourmands, with the day’s oyster catch highly sought after. Great food, views and weather make this an idyllic escape.
OYSTERS ON THE BEACH
La Cabane de l’Aiguillon, a tiny wooden beach hut on the sea front, specializes in the local seafood. Try the catch of the day sitting at one of the tables, with your feet in the sand. They specialize, of course, in the local oysters, paired with a glass of white wine. Beware – they shut early, but it is an ideal stop for lunch.
APÉRO
La Co(o)rniche, with its spectacular views of the bay and sunsets, is the ideal spot for cocktails before dinner, and the chicest apéro spot in the area. This luxurious hotel is in the heights of Pyla-sur-Mer next to the Pilat dune, which rises majestically behind you as you relax on the terrace overlooking the bay. It boasts a sumptuous cocktail bar, and the views are nothing short of breathtaking, especially at sundown. There is an excellent tapas menu served at the bar, or should the views prove too difficult to leave, there is also a sublime restaurant next door, with local produce the focus of the menu.
DINNER
Head to Arcachon seafront for dinner at Chez Pierre; expect local gastronomic delights as well as excellent sushi. The delicious fish is freshly caught, and oysters are once again the stars of the show. The restaurant is a local institution, and the charming deco makes for an unforgettable evening.
Le Skiff Club and the Café Ha(a)ïtza are part of the Ha(a)ïtza hotel in Pyla-sur-Mer. Le Skiff Club, with its Michelin-starred chef, has only 30 place settings, so booking early is a must! Across the road, the Café Ha(a)ïtza is French bistro dining at its best. Sit on a gently lit terrace, with mosaic floors and fishing trophies, and enjoy the local cuisine. La Cabane de l’Aiguillon
For a more relaxed evening, Club Plage Pereire has an excellent menu and an idyllic location. Set on the beach, with unimpeded views across the Bassin, the tables are placed out on the sand in order for diners to enjoy a perfect sunset alongside their cocktail. A small and simple menu with beautifully prepared food pairs with the relaxed beach vibe perfectly.
DANCING
For those with the staying power, Le Balap, with its 80’s vibe, stays open to the early morning. Relaxed, friendly and fun, finish up your evening on the dance floor to the 80’s classics. It opens early for cocktails and is situated slightly further down the coast in Pyla-sur-Mer.
STAY AND SLEEP
When booking a room at the La Co(o)rniche, the hardest choice is which view to pick. Choose from rooms overlooking the Bassin, the dune, or the ocean. Set up in the sky, the heights of Pyla, you will never feel far from the sea. The rooms are light, airy, and beautifully decorated with clean white wooden walls.
Every care and attention has been given to the Neo-Basque design of the hotel, creating a small paradise that thoroughly deserves its name of ’the most beautiful place in the world’.
Down at sea level in Pyla-sur-Mer, enjoy the spa down at La Co(o)rniche’s sister hotel, the Ha(a)ïtza, again in the clean, light, Neo-Basque style. This stylish hotel also boasts inhouse hairdressing and treatments, as well as its own bakery.
The Hôtel Ville d’Hiver, a refurbished 17th century hotel in Arcachon, features a spa, pool and in-house restaurant. Only a ten-minute walk from the seafront and town centre, this romantic hotel feels nonetheless secluded from the hustle of the bay. Café Ha(a)ïtza
