The Dwarf

sacola’s beloved downtown. Despite ola, and Gussie’s Record shop, which black musicians from performing in white establishments. So, the black community made their own clubs: Bunny Club and Abe’s 506 Club. When black people would leave these night clubs early in the morning, there weren’t any eateries available to them.

Until Vera Rancifer opened The Dwarf Drive In in 1963, which was one year before the 1964 Civil Rights Act. The Dwarf stayed open early into the morning to serve club goers. Locals today know The Dwarf for serving the best chicken in The Dwarf BLACK OWNED BUSINESS that way. “She said she started it with a hamburger,” Rancifer’s niece and current owner of The Dwarf NeeSee Jones said. “They called it the drive in because you walked up to the window and placed your order there. She started with hamburgers by Gina Castro and then she just made her menu as her customphotos by Guy Stevens ers wished.” I f Pensacola were to name a single place the birthplace of its arts and Being a black woman let alone a black woman business owner was challenging. Millions of black food scene, it would be the Belmont World War II veterans were denied their and DeVillers District. These four corrightfully earned GI Bills, so a black ciners, also known as The Blocks, are vilian's chances of getting a bank loan rich in black history. Florida’s 1905 were close to impossible. However, Jim Crow laws outcast black people Jones explained that colorism benefitand black business owners from Pented Rancifer. being limited to only the Belmont and “I think it was difficult for her, but if you DeVillers District, the black commumet her, you would see how it made it nity thrived. There were black-owned easier for her,” Jones said. “I don't think barbershops, dry cleaners, dentists, it was as hard for her as it would be for beauty stores and restaurants. WBOP, another black person. She looks Jewish the first black radio station in Pensacand Greek— somewhat white passing.” the city, but it didn’t start were both located in the building Five For the first 48 years, The Dwarf was Sisters is now in, drew in musical leglocated where the Five Sisters’ patio is ends Aretha Franklin, James Charles today. It was a small yellow shack or and B.B. King. Segregation prohibited “a hole in the wall” as Jones described it. It had just enough space for them to 12 | DOWNTOWNCROWD.COM take orders and cook. There wasn’t any dining space then. The Dwarf instantly became a highly trafficked spot for locals and celebrities alike. Black musicians would perform live on WBOP just above The Dwarf and swing by afterward for a bite.

Jones started working there when she was just 15 years old. She can’t even tell you how many celebrities she met during her days at the counter, but one of the most memorable was Gladys Knight. She started with hamburgers and then she just made her menu as her customers “

wished.”

“I was the first family member to actually work there. It was amazing. They used to give tips then. It was a lot of dollars for me,” Jones said. “I met a lot of stars from the nightclubs, but most of them were blues singers I didn’t know.”

In 2004, Hurricane Ivan destroyed The Dwarf. “Some of the brick was cracked and the owner didn't want to fix it,” Jones explained. The building owner ended up selling the building. This experience left Rancifer with a bad taste in her mouth. Jones explained that Rancifer felt like the building owner was trying to run The Dwarf off. By that time, the clubs, WBOP and Gussie’s were all distant memories. Few black-owned businesses exist at the Blocks today. Fortunately, Blue Dot has managed to hold its ground since 1937.

The Dwarf was forced to shut down for three years, but reopened on Massachusetts Avenue in 2007, miles away from its home on Belmont and DeVillers. Once Jones took over the business, she was able to bring The Dwarf back to the district where it currently stands, caddy cornered to its original location. Today, The Dwarf serves fresh, delicious chicken— following Rancifer’s original recipe, of course. Rancifer will be 93 in September and Jones confirmed that she is still sharp as a whip.

Due to COVID-19, The Dwarf has had to shorten its late night hours, but it’s still open late on the weekends. Follow The Dwarf on Facebook @DwarfChickenStand for more information.

Vera Rancifer, founder of The Dwarf, located on North DeVillers Street

TAQUERIA EL ASADOR A taste of Mexico is available right here in Pensacola. El Asador is a family-owned, authentic taco and Mexican outdoor grill. It opened behind the Shell Gas Station in 2014. El Asador started out as a delicious spot known to only locals. It rose to stardom in 2017 when it ranked as the fourth best tacos in the nation by Business Insider. If this is the first you’ve heard of El Asador, it’s never too late to give it a shot. The majority of the menu is under $5. For students they offer specials on Mondays and Wednesdays from 1 pm to 5 pm. El Asador’s hours are Monday through Saturday from 10:30 am to 8:30 pm.

PUPUSAS ELY This authentic Salvadoran food truck is another one of Pensacola’s hidden treasures. Owners Oscar and Maria Mejia are El Salvador natives serving flavorful Latino street food. One of their menu’s most popular dishes is the Pupusa, which is a thick corn tortilla stuffed with cheese and a savory filling. Some of the filling options are beans, smashed pork, spinach and fish. The area Pupusas Ely is located is affectionately known as Rincón Latino, which translates to “where Latinos meet.” Pupusas Ely shares space with Tacos El Amigo, a Mexican-style food truck. You can stop by both trucks on 6201 Tippin Avenue Monday through Saturday from 10:30 am to 8 pm and Sundays from 10 am to 5 pm.

BLACK OWNED BUSINESS

NEIGHBORHOOD ICE CREAM PARLOR What better way to beat Florida's heat than with some ice cream? Co-owners Derrick Harris, Dena McWilliams-Grier and Brian K. Johnson of the Neighborhood Ice Cream Parlor, located in Warrington, opened the parlor to give the local children access to affordable sweet treats. Prices start at $1.50 for a cone. The parlor also sells homemade cakes and pastries. Even though it’s been open only since May 4, the parlor has made an effort to support the surrounding community. The parlor celebrated Juneteenth and promoted voting registration. You can visit the Neighborhood Ice Cream Parlor on 120 Chiefs Way. It’s open Monday through Saturday from 11 am to 8 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm on Sundays.